Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud FB RES

Swiss luxury watch brand Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud presents FB RES, an evolution of the award-winning Chronomètre FB 2RE collection.

In 2020, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud unveiled its second collection, the Chronomètre FB 2RE. This timepiece marked a real turning point for the Maison: the first round case, the first display with three central hands; and above all the first movement with a double regulation system combining fusee-and-chain transmission with a one-second “remontoir d’égalité”.

This movement is now offered with a completely revisited design intended to highlight its sophisticated inner workings.

Formerly in domed Grand Feu enamel, the dial now features a technical combination of bridges and mainplate as well as a wide opening stretching from 3 o’clock to 6 o’clock. The latter reveals a construction with three bridges converging towards the dial centre.

This geometry is directly inspired by a skeletonised table clock made by Ferdinand Berthoud circa 1775. The similarity does not end there, as that clock displaying the hours, minutes, seconds, age of the Moon, calendar and zodiac signs was also equipped with a “remontoir d’égalité”. This timepiece in perfect working order is part of the Maison’s heritage and is currently housed in the Ferdinand Berthoud Museum in Fleurier.

Exposing the movement components of the Chronomètre FB RES opens up unprecedented aesthetic perspectives, while simultaneously revealing a particularly meticulous finishing process.

Each wheel, bridge and screw is entirely hand-decorated. An extraordinary level of manual finishing has been applied in order to reveal the beauty of each component.

Placed end to end, all the angles of the wheels and their bridges, as well as those revealed at the heart of the 9 o’clock power-reserve display, represent more than two linear metres filed and polished by hand. The finishing of the bridges and mainplate is specific to this new model named FB RES – standing in French for “Remontoir d’Égalité Squelette”.

Thirty-eight movements will be produced in total. They will be open to customisation in a wide range of options. The shape (round or octagonal) and material (stainless-steel, titanium, ceramised titanium and 18-carat white, yellow, or rose gold) of the case, the colour of the inner bezel ring, the dial and the associated finishes (sandblasted or satin-brushed): in all, more than 200 variations can be simulated on an online configurator specifically created for this model.

At the heart of this timepiece beats the Calibre FB-RES.FC, regulated by fusee-and-chain transmission and a one-second remontoire. The purpose of this full-fledged chronometric complication is to even out the energy coming from the barrel and transmitted to the escapement. The device relies on a spring positioned between the two organs. It temporarily stores a small amount of energy, which is then delivered to the balance.

The charge/discharge frequency of this buffer energy is very short: one second. It is this sequential impulse that the large central seconds hand beats off, connected to the “remontoir d’égalité” via an intermediate wheel. It therefore advances in one-second jumps: this is a true-beat mechanism also known as a deadbeat second and generated directly by the remontoire.

All these mechanical intricacies are almost entirely visible through the back of the FB RES.

Inspiration: Skeletonised table clock, Ferdinand Berthoud, circa 1775

• Four ring-shaped white enamelled dials for the hours (I-XII), minutes (60), seconds (60) and calendar (31); months (12) with zodiac signs; days of the week (7) and age of the moon (29 ½).
• One main gear train and two strikework trains (hours and quarters). By means of a “remontoir d’égalité”, the main gear train supplies constant energy to the pin-pallet escapement.
• The quarters strikework train (left) strikes the quarters on two bells. The hours strikework train (right) is activated after striking the quarters. It also activates the calendar.
• “Ferdinand Berthoud” signature on the gilded plaque adorning the marble base.
• Dimensions: 25 x 15 x 43 cm

Model: Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud FB RES

Case

Shape
Round case fitted with one glare-proofed sapphire crystal porthole at 10 o’clock
Octagonal case fitted with two glare-proofed sapphire crystal portholes at 2 and 11 o’clock

Total diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 14.30 mm (round case) / 14.26 mm (octagonal case)
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 9 mm

Possible materials
18-carat rose gold, 18-carat yellow gold, 18-carat white gold, platinum, stainless steel, titanium and ceramised titanium
18-carat rose gold, 18-carat yellow gold, 18-carat white gold, stainless steel, titanium and ceramised titanium, (platinum not available)

Dynamometric crown (decoupling system)
Case-back fitted with a “chevee” sapphire crystal pane glare-proofed on both sides.
Domed “chevee” sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides

Dial

Open-worked nickel silver decorative plate topping the mainplate (dial):
Possible finishes: vertical satin-brushed or sandblasted
Possible colours: champagne-toned, anthracite or blue

Circular satin-brushed seconds inner bezel ring surrounding the dial:
Possible colours: champagne-toned, anthracite or silver-toned
Mirror-polished stainless-steel gear-train bridges between 3 and 6 o’clock
Power-reserve indication with “0_1” engraving on a 9 o’clock bridge visible on the dial side

Hands
Dagger-shaped hours and minutes hands in 18-carat gold
Central sweep-seconds hand in brass
Arrow-shaped power-reserve hand in 18-carat gold

Movement

Calibre FB-RES.FC: mechanical manual-winding movement, constant force with fusee-and-chain transmission and one-second remontoire
Diameter: 37.30 mm
Thickness: 9.37 mm
Lignes: 16 ½
Jewels: 58
Frequency: 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Constant force with fusee-and-chain transmission
Inverted and suspended fusee – differential winding system (PATENT)
Suspended barrel – Maltese cross stopwork system

Regulating organ
Two-arm variable-inertia Ferdinand Berthoud balance wheel fitted with 4 integrated adjustment screws
Balance-spring with hand-crafted Phillips outer terminal curve (steel alloy)
Swiss lever escapement
15-toothed escape-wheel

“Remontoir d’égalité” mechanism
One-second winding
Three-toothed stop wheel
Triple-sided cam in hand-crafted synthetic ruby
Flat spiral spring (steel alloy)

Components: 1200 (including the chain)
Chain: 790 components
Chain length: 285 mm
Bridges: 26
Pillars: 10

Decorations
Nickel silver bridges fitted on stylised stainless-steel pillars, decorated according to dial design
Hand-finishing according to the highest watchmaking standards
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC

Functions
Hours and minutes, deadbeat seconds, power reserve, time-setting with stop-seconds device on the balance

Strap

Hand-sewn leather strap (125 x 70 mm, with a 20 mm buckle) – Various sizes available on request
Length-adjustable double-blade folding clasp – Pin buckle available on request