Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1.6-3: Unique Timepiece Exclusively Designed for ART IN TIME Watch Gallery, Monaco

Swiss luxury watch brand Ferdinand Berthoud has created a unique timepiece for supporting the charity work of the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation in alliance with ART IN TIME watch gallery in Monaco.

With its black DLC-treated steel case, rubber strap, and vertical satin-finish black dial, the Chronomètre FB 1.6-3 exudes a sports feel at first sight. Its movement boasts angled sapphire half bridges, echoing the modernity of its housing. The unique piece has been exclusively designed for the ART IN TIME watch gallery in Monaco, with part of the proceeds from its sale passed on to charity.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1.6-3: Unique Timepiece Exclusively Designed for ART IN TIME Watch Gallery, Monaco

For the first time, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has decked out one of its models in black DLC. This bold move is nevertheless consistent with developments to date: right from its inception, in addition to technical performance inspired by the values of Fine Watchmaking, the manufacture has sought to endow its timepieces with an unashamedly contemporary look.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1.6-3: Unique Timepiece Exclusively Designed for ART IN TIME Watch Gallery, Monaco

The FB 1.6-3 explores this modern ethos – and pushes back its boundaries. It’s both sporty and daring, with the case, bezel, flange, dial, crown, and strap clad entirely in black. It’s also the first ever steel case in the FB 1 collection, making this model very much one of a kind.

In a first for the manufacture, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has applied an all-black DLC treatment to the fine sand-blasted steel. The crown is fitted with a ceramic insert; the screws fastening the case are in titanium.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1.6-3: Unique Timepiece Exclusively Designed for ART IN TIME Watch Gallery, Monaco

The vertical satin-finish dial benefits from a semi-matte black galvanised treatment. The even-numbered hours, seconds hand, and power reserve are coloured red, standing out eloquently. The combination of dark black and bright red contributes to the sports feel of the piece, as well as making its indications effortless to read.

To complete the nod to ART IN TIME’s Monaco identity, the Chronomètre FB 1.6-3 features a white seconds scale and minute circle, thus echoing the House of Grimaldi’s two heraldic colours, red and white. In line with ART IN TIME’s tradition of unique pieces, part of the proceeds from the sale of the watch will be passed on to the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation, dedicated to building a sustainable future.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1.6-3: Unique Timepiece Exclusively Designed for ART IN TIME Watch Gallery, Monaco

The hour and minute counter is finely sand-blasted and treated with matte black gold. Its hour markers have been coated with Super-LumiNova. The hours and minutes hands and power reserve indicator are in gold, while the seconds hand is made of polished bronze.

In the FB 1.6-3, sapphire takes pride of place, both on the dial, for the flange, and also on the back, for the half bridges. The latter are finely angled, engraved, and coloured red, enclosing the tourbillon carriage and its central seconds hand.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1.6-3: Unique Timepiece Exclusively Designed for ART IN TIME Watch Gallery, Monaco

Equipped with a fusee-and-chain transmission – the oldest and most complex solution for providing an escapement with constant force – the FB 1.6-3 guarantees Chronometer certified accuracy.

The manufacture movement can be admired through one of the side portholes in the octagonal case that has now become the style signature of this Ferdinand Berthoud collection. The case houses the FB-T.FC-2 calibre, the construction of which is unique in contemporary watchmaking.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1.6-3: Unique Timepiece Exclusively Designed for ART IN TIME Watch Gallery, Monaco

With 15 bridges and 3 half bridges connected by vertical pillars, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has designed a movement that brings to mind eighteenth-century marine chronometers, with barrel and fusee suspended, as is the cone – on which a feeler rises and falls, indicating the power reserve.

Technical details

Model: FB 1.6-3 Black DLC-treated Stainless Steel; Unique Piece

Movement specifications

Movement
Mechanical manual winding Calibre FB-T.FC-2
Diameter: 35.50mm
Thickness: 7.96mm
Lines: 15 ¾
Jewels: 45
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz)
Power reserve: 53 hours

Special features
Tourbillon with fusee-and-chain (constant-force) transmission
Suspended fusée – differential winding system (PATENT)
Suspended barrel – Maltese cross stopwork system (PATENT)
Suspended power reserve – mobile cone system (PATENT)
Tourbillon with direct-drive seconds hand (PATENT)
Variable-inertia balance wheel featuring four rhodium-plated nickel silver inertia blocks
Balance spring with hand-crafted steel Phillips terminal curve
Swiss lever escapement
Three angled, engraved transparent sapphire half bridges, fitted on stylised titanium pillars
Hand finishes to the highest watchmaking standards

Number of movement components
Components 1119 (including chain)
Chain 790 components
Length of the chain: 285mm
Bridges: 18, including 3 in sapphire
Pillars: 6

Tourbillon
Rotation 1 /minute
Components: 67
Tourbillon carriage: Ø 16.55 mm (titanium)
Tourbillon carriage assembled with 3 polished titanium pillars
Tourbillon carriage poised by 2 inertia blocks in 18-carat gold
Balance wheel: 12 mm in copper-beryllium

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve

Case, dial and strap

Case
Black DLC-treated octagonal stainless steel case with two transparent sapphire portholes
Total diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 13 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 9 mm
Black DLC-treated stainless steel dynamometric crown (decoupling system) with black ceramic medallion
Black DLC-treated stainless steel screw-in case-back with glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Domed, arched sapphire crystal, glare-proofed on both sides

Dial
Vertical satin-brushed dial with semi-matte black galvanised treatment
Angled open dial centre and power reserve indicator; black bevels
Off-centre hours and minutes sub-dial, sand-blasted, semi-matte black galvanised treatment, red Arabic numerals
Black translucent sapphire crystal seconds track
Power reserve indication engraved on base plate: “0_1/4_1/2_3/4_1”
Power reserve indicator: arrow pointing to the words “HAUT” and “BAS” (‘HIGH’ and ‘LOW’)
Inscription: “Chronomètre Val-de-Travers Suisse”

Hands
Facetted and open-worked dagger-type minutes hand in 18-carat white gold, coated with white luminous material (Super-LumiNova)
Red varnished 18-carat white gold arrow-shaped power reserve hand
Red varnished bronze central seconds hand

Strap
Rubber strap (115 x 75mm, 20mmbuckle) – Range of sizes available on request
Black DLC-treated 18-carat white gold pin buckle – Ceramised titanium, double-blade length-adjustable folding clasp available on request

Certification
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC

Limited edition
Unique piece

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB RS Limited Edition

In a bid to strengthen ties with the original inspiration of its founder, the Manufacture Ferdinand Berthoud is introducing an evolved version of its business model.

The new model is based on the FB-T.FC-RS calibre, the Régulateur Squelette movement. For the first time, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has announced that the production of this movement will be strictly limited to 20 in all.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB RS Limited Edition watch

The FB-T.FC-RS calibre is the first skeleton movement produced by the Manufacture. This regulator-type chronometer movement with tourbillon and fusee-and-chain transmission is the result of comprehensive technical and aesthetic development and is inspired by Marine Clock No. 8, produced by the master-watchmaker in Paris in 1768. Through the opening visible at 2 o’clock, a large-diameter sapphire disc indicates the hours, while minutes are read off on the dial offset to 12 o’clock. The seconds are displayed on a flat sapphire inner bezel ring surrounding the dial.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB RS Limited Edition

The bridges have been entirely designed to ensure an admirable view of the choreography performed by the imposing tourbillon carriage appearing on the dial side. Many components feature black PVD coating, alternating with polished, matt, vertical satin-brushed and sandblasted finishes.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB RS Limited Edition

The tourbillon bridge visible on the dial side is in itself a tour de force, with its mirror-polished and chamfered surfaces, polished flanks, and sandblasted underside. The decoration alone of each movement thus requires dozens of different craftsmanship skills. Nearly a year of trials was needed to achieve this level of finishing, enabling the complexity of this new movement on the dial side to be fully admired for the first time.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB RS Limited Edition

The FB-T.FC-RS calibre features a pillar-type structure in which the barrel and the reverse fusee are both suspended and patented. This fusee-and-chain transmission mechanism is inspired by that of Ferdinand Berthoud’s marine chronometers. It ensures the distribution of energy by delivering «constant force» to the tourbillon with its direct-drive seconds. This novel construction is the third patent to be filed.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB RS Limited Edition

Finally, the fourth patent applies to the power reserve indicator. Visible on the case-back side, a suspended truncated cone moves up and down along an arbor connected to the barrel. A feeler spindle in the form of a mobile arm tipped with a watch jewel reflects the state of wind of the barrel thanks to its position on the cone. It transmits the information to the power-reserve hand on the dial side by means of flat levers and a spiral spring.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB RS Limited Edition watch movement

Like all Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud movements, the FB-T.FC-RS calibre is officially chronometer-certified and was submitted to the Fleuritest during its development phase.

The choice of watch exterior – from among the various combinations offered by Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud – will be left to the collector. Henceforth, the Manufacture will be offering two variations: the FB 1RS.6 with an octagonal case in carburised stainless steel and the FB 2RS.2 with a round case in 18-carat rose gold. This carburised steel has had its molecular structure reinforced, making its surface (1200 Vickers) extremely resistant to scratches and corrosion. The gold is of certified ethical origin.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB RS Limited Edition

This approach is in line with the quality-driven vision adopted since the start of the Manufacture in 2015. The two successive awards at the 2019 and 2020 editions of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in the «Chronometry» category have demonstrated the reliability and precision of its timepieces. Through this new initiative, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud thus confirms its desire to exceed collectors’ expectations by offering the unprecedented possibility of choosing the case shape.

Technical details

REF. FB 1RS.6 – Octagonal case in ultra-resistant carburised stainless steel, fitted with two portholes

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB RS Limited Edition

Case
Total diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 13.95 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 9 mm
Domed, arched sapphire crystal, glare-proofed on both sides
Dynamometric crown (decoupling system) in carburised stainless steel

Dial
Open-worked regulator plate (dial) in vertical satin-brushed black PVD-treated nickel silver
Hours indication on sapphire disc at 2 o’clock
Open-worked, sandblasted and silver-toned minutes dial at 12 o’clock, with black Arabic numerals
Flat seconds inner bezel ring framing the sapphire dial
“0_1” grey-coloured power-reserve indication engraved on the regulator plate at 10 o’clock

Functions
Hours appearing on a disc at 2 o’clock
Pointer-type minute display at 12 o’clock
Central sweep-seconds hand
Power-reserve indication at 10 o’clock

Movement
Mechanical hand-wound Calibre FB-T.FC.RS
Diameter: 37.30 mm
Thickness: 9.89 mm
Jewels: 49
Frequency: 21 600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 53 hours
Components: 1,158 (including the chain)
Half-bridges: 18
Pillars: 6
Limited production (encompassing all types of case): 20 movements

Decorations
Balance-spring with hand-shaped Philips terminal curve (steel)
Open-worked and engraved black PVD-treated nickel silver semi-bridges, supported by polished stylised pillars
Hand-crafted finishes in keeping with the highest watchmaking standards

Strap
Hand-sewn leather strap (125 x 70 mm, boucle 20 mm)
Titanium double-blade length-adjustable folding clasp with carburised stainless steel

Certification
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC

REF. FB 2RS.2 – Round case in 18-carat rose gold, fitted with one porthole

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB RS Limited Edition watch in 18 carat rose gold

Case
Total diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 14.26 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 9 mm
Domed, arched sapphire crystal, glare-proofed on both sides
18-carat rose gold dynamometric crown (decoupling system)

Dial
Open-worked regulator plate (dial) in vertical satin-brushed black PVD-treated nickel silver
Hours indication on sapphire disc at 2 o’clock
Open-worked, sandblasted and silver-toned minutes dial at 12 o’clock, with black Arabic numerals
Flat seconds inner bezel ring framing the sapphire dial
“0_1” grey-coloured power-reserve indication engraved on the regulator plate at 10 o’clock

Functions
Hours appearing on a disc at 2 o’clock, pointer-type minute display at 12 o’clock, central sweep-seconds hand and power-reserve indication at 10 o’clock

Movement
Mechanical hand-wound Calibre FB-T.FC.RS
Diameter: 37.30 mm
Thickness: 9.89 mm
Jewels: 49
Frequency: 21 600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 53 hours
Components: 1,158 (including the chain)
Half-bridges: 18
Pillars: 6
Limited production (encompassing all types of case): 20 movements

Decorations
Balance-spring with hand-shaped Philips terminal curve (steel)
Open-worked and engraved black PVD-treated nickel silver semi-bridges, supported by polished stylised pillars
Hand-crafted finishes in keeping with the highest watchmaking standards

Strap
Hand-sewn leather strap (125 x 70 mm, boucle 20 mm)
18-carat rose gold double-blade length-adjustable folding clasp

Certification
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE

In 1770, following the success of the sea trials in 1768-1769 of Marine Clocks No. 6 and No. 8, Ferdinand Berthoud was awarded the envied title of “Clockmaker and Mechanic by appointment to the French King and Navy” under Louis XV and received a royal commission for 20 Marine Clocks which were to be used during the numerous cartographic and hydrographic surveys that were undertaken in the late 18th century.

To celebrate the 250th anniversary of this historically important scientific achievement, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud presents a new emblematic collection: the Chronomètre FB 2RE.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE

This model pays tribute to the genius of Ferdinand Berthoud, as revealed in the extraordinary Marine Clock No. 6. Inspired by its architecture and design, it introduces a new movement, a symbol of excellence and chronometric precision: Calibre FB-RE.FC with remontoir d’égalité, often referred to in English watchmaking parlance as a remontoire.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE

A new modular case

As described by Ferdinand Berthoud in his Traité des horloges marines (Treatise on Marine Clocks) published in Paris in 1773, the mechanisms of Marine Clocks are protected by a cylindrical copper drum, itself held in a horizontal position by a gimbal suspension system that he invented.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE

The case of the Chronomètre FB 2RE picks up the shape of these Marine Clocks and this modular construction. The movement is installed in a cylindrical container made of 18-carat gold and water-resistant to 30 metres. Short, tapering all-of-piece lugs are solidly secured to the case by stylised bolts and ensure the Chronomètre FB 2RE smoothly moulds the contours of the wrist.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE

A large panoramic window appears at 10 o’clock along the case middle in a screw-down frame and reveals the movement’s pillar-type architecture, as well as the barrel and its chain.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE

The round case, 44 mm in diameter and 14 mm thick, is enhanced by a curved bezel fitted with a strongly domed “chevée” glare-proofed sapphire crystal. The caseback is also fitted with a sapphire crystal enabling one to admire the incomparable beauty of the movement.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE

The large diameter of the knurled crown makes it easy to grip, thus facilitating movement winding. Integrated into the case middle by an applied screw-in crown guard, it features a dynamometric system that disengages as soon as the barrel is fully armed.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE

The gold used in the manufacture of FB 2RE chronometers comes from the ethical sourcing system. The Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RE with remontoir d’égalité is available in two 10-piece limited and numbered editions: one in 18-carat rose gold with a black enamel dial and the other in 18-carat white gold with a white enamel dial.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE

A traditional enamel dial

In order to facilitate reading off the hours and minutes during sea voyages, Ferdinand Berthoud had designed a two-tiered dial with two types of graduations for his Marine Clock No. 6: in the centre, the hours indications in Roman numerals stand out from the minutes circle in Arabic numerals appearing on the circumference.

The dial construction of the Chronomètre FB 2RE follows this same principle, while adding an additional degree of complexity by opting to craft it in grand feu enamel. This dial is thus composed of two elements: one is domed, located on the periphery and designed to bear the graduated scale; while the second, positioned centrally and slightly lower, is a flat medallion.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE

Both are made of grand feu enamel, which requires numerous firings in a special kiln at a temperature of 800°C. Their base is made of non-magnetic steel, a choice that requires perfect compliance with the required temperatures and extremely precise firing times in order to avoid any distortion, while also preventing the excess thickness resulting from the traditional counter-enamel.

The inscriptions on the dial are also crafted in painted enamel, which requires an additional firing in the kiln. Roman numerals for the hours, Arabic numerals for the minutes and a rail-track minute circle appear alongside the markings and the original inscription “Chronomètre Val-de-Travers Suisse”.

The dial of reference FB 2RE.1 is crafted in white enamel with black inscriptions, while the dial of reference FB 2RE.2 features deep black enamel punctuated by white markings.

Signature hands

For the hours and minutes, the Chronomètre FB 2RE is equipped with dagger-type hands in 18-carat gold featuring a hollowed-out design reminiscent of the hands of the Chronomètre FB 1, while the shorter hours hand remains flush with the central dial medallion.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE

The minutes hand is highlighted by a bulge half-way along and extends to the base of the minute circle. The extremely thin titanium seconds hand weighs just 0.01 grams. This lightness helps to lighten the burden on the remontoire.

Finally, the arrow-shaped CVD-blued 18-carat power-reserve hand on the back of the movement is visible through the wide sapphire crystal case-back.

Bridges and pillars

The FB-RE.FC calibre is built according to a unique architecture specific to Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. Its organs are symmetrically positioned, legible and clear, as if the order reigning in its operation were expressed through the elegance of its visual balance.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE

This mechanical movement with manual winding comprises 26 bridges held by 10 steel pillars, surrounding the mechanical parts. This construction is characteristic of 18th century Ferdinand Berthoud marine chronometers.

This century that proved so important for innovation notably inspired Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud to adopt the extremely distinctive design of its bridges. They are composed of a flat, screw-in section extended into a raised, cantilevered neck, giving them a staircase shape typical of the horological constructions of that era.

Fusee-and-chain transmission

The FB-RE.FC calibre is one of the rare examples to feature fusee-and-chain transmission, serving to ensure constant force for the escapement. It acts like an infinitely variable automatic reduction gearbox.

The torque delivered by the barrel of a watch movement naturally varies according to the degree of winding. In this type of transmission, when the movement is fully wound, the chain is completely wrapped around the small end of the spindle-shaped fusee and the mainspring is at maximum power. This force dwindles in the course of time, as the chain coils around the drum, moving from the small to the large end of the fusee.

The variation in the diameter of the fusee compensates for the reduction of the mainspring torque. The gear train thus receives a constant supply of energy, a pre-filtering of the energy arriving at the remontoire.

The distinctive nature of the FB-RE.FC caliber lies in the fact that its fusee is reversed, and especially that its barrel and fusee are both suspended – meaning they are held on one side only, to the mainplate. This spectacular construction is patented and serves to save a few precious millimetres.

Remontoir d’égalité

Exceptionally, the FB-RE.FC calibre, in addition to the constant-force mechanism, is equipped with a one-second remontoire visible on the back of the movement. It is one of the most complex torque regulation systems in the history of time measurement.  Far from duplicating the role of the fusee, this device complements its action by acting on another point.

The fuse equalises the torque reaching the gear train, yet irregularities are created when the teeth mesh. These torque variations, of a much smaller magnitude than those generated by the uncoiling of the mainspring, are nevertheless important in light of the precision demanded by Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud.

Deadbeat seconds

The Chronomètre FB 2RE remontoire is of a distinctive type in that it is fitted concentrically with the escape-wheel and thus directly connected to the escapement. This device is designed to store a small amount of energy in a secondary hairspring, playing a driving rather than a regulating role. It delivers its force to the balance via the escapement at such short intervals that the variation of the force in the hairspring is not taken into account. In this case, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has opted for a one-second release.

The force from the barrel is transmitted to the remontoire spring by means of a triangular ruby cam. When the escape-wheel has moved 2.5 teeth forward, the ruby cam releases the stop lever, that of the remontoire, and allows the driving force to enter the remontoire system. It is then charged for the next second.

The escape-wheel pinion is connected to the stop wheel and marks off the seconds. The entire assembly is connected to the central seconds hand and enables the Chronomètre FB 2RE to display true seconds, or deadbeat seconds, like marine chronometers or regulator-type long case clocks. To enhance the accuracy of the display, the connection between the escapement pinion and the deadbeat seconds hand is achieved by means of a special deadbeat seconds mechanism.

Lighter system

The remontoire is traditionally very energy-intensive, particularly because of the friction it generates. Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has reduced this friction by installing the remontoire where the torque is lowest.

The escape-wheel is the one that receives the least force from the entire gearing and is therefore the best candidate for the position. In addition, the use of the ruby cam and an extremely light seconds hand (0.01 grams), thanks to the use of titanium and an extremely tapered shape, reduces the weight driven by the remontoire.

All these decisions together enable the FB-RE.FC calibre to offer a power reserve of 50 hours. This is indicated on the back of the movement by means of a blued arrow shaped hand placed on a sector engraved on the mainplate. The barrel stores energy for several more hours, but the stopwork system blocks it outside the guaranteed precision timekeeping (chronometry) range.

Optimising precision

Historically, high-precision timepieces have been based on work to optimise the regulating organ, and Ferdinand Berthoud also made interesting modifications to his chronometers throughout his career.

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has followed in his footsteps by inventing a new two-spoke variable-inertia balance with an aerodynamic shape and four inertia blocks. Its large diameter guarantees its inertia and stability, with a low frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour, thereby safeguarding the power reserve. It also enables slow oscillation, pleasing to the eye and similar to that of historical timepieces.

The remontoire is a delicate system, which increases the difficulty of adjustment. That of the Chronomètre FB 2RE thus requires much greater care and time than any other model. It is by returning to the roots of pure chronometry that the Maison has devised an exceptional chronometer, the execution of which is as delicate as its design.

In order to guarantee optimal precision, the Chronomètre FB 2RE is equipped with a stop-seconds device, which brings the balance to a halt when the crown is pulled out. The wearer can then synchronise the watch to the nearest second with the time displayed by a reference timepiece, in the same way that observation watches were synchronised with marine chronometers on an exploration vessel.

Excellent finishing

The finishing of the FB-RE.FC calibre is exceptional. The nickel-silver bridges reveal a frosting type finish, involving extremely fine manual graining using a brush, performed before the final drilling and milling stages.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE

The arrow-shaped steel balance bridge is mirror polished, as is the upper part of the stepped escape-wheel bridge. The barrel and the fusee are satin-brushed, as are all 790 components of the chain.

Finally, all the movement parts are hand-chamfered and bevelled with traditional tools by the artisans of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. The quality control of these finishes is carried out under a much higher degree of magnification than is customary in watchmaking, using a 6.7x magnifying glass.

Technical details

Movement

Calibre FB-RE.FC: mechanical movement with manual winding, constant force with fusee-and-chain transmission and remontoir d’égalité
Diameter: 37.30 mm
Thickness: 9.37 mm
Lignes: 16 ½
Jewels: 58
Frequency: 18000 vph (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 50hours

Constant force with fusee-and-chain transmission
Suspended fusee – differential winding system (PATENT)
Suspended barrel – Maltese cross stopwork system (PATENT)

Regulating organ
Ferdinand Berthoud two-spoke variable-inertia balance with four inertia blocks
Balance spring with hand-crafted steel Phillippe outer terminal curve (overcoil)
Swiss lever escapement
15-tooth escape-wheel

Remontoire mechanism
One-second remontoire
Three-tooth stop wheel
Hand-crafted triple-faced synthetic ruby cam
Flat hairspring (steel alloy)

Components: 1,200 (including the chain)
Chain: 790 components
Length of the chain: 285 mm
Bridges: 26
Pillars: 10

Decorations
Nickel silver bridges with frosting-type finishing, secured to stylised steel pillars
Engraved and black-varnished power-reserve indication on the back of the movement
Hand finishing in keeping with the highest watchmaking standards

Certification
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC

Functions
Hours, minutes, deadbeat seconds, power reserve on the back of the movement, time-setting with stop-seconds device on the balance

Models

Ref. FB 2RE.1 (10-Piece limited numbered edition in 18-carat white gold)

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE

Case
Round case in 18-carat ethical non-rhodium-plated white gold, fitted with a transparent sapphire “porthole” at 10 o’clock
Total diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 14.30 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 9 mm
Numbered edition: 1/10 to 10/10
Dynamometric crown (uncoupling system) in 18-carat white gold, with black ceramic medallion
Screw-in exhibition back in 18-carat white gold fitted with a sapphire crystal pane glare-proofed on both sides
Domed “chevée” sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides

Dial
Split-level dial in white grand feu enamel, black grand feu enamel hours &minutes track
Inscriptions: “FERDINAND BERTHOUD” and “CHRONOMÈTRE VAL-DE-TRAVERS” in black grand feu enamel

Hands
Dagger-type hours and minutes hands in CVD-blued 18-carat gold
Central seconds hand in CVD-blued titanium
Arrow-shaped power reserve hand in CVD-blued 18-carat gold on the back of the movement

Strap
Hand-sewn leather strap (125 x 70 mm, with a 20 mm buckle) – Various sizes available on request
18-carat white gold pin buckle –Double-blade length-adjustable folding clasp available on request

Model: Ref. FB 2RE.2 (10-piece limited numbered edition in 18-carat rose gold)

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE

Case
Round case in 18-carat ethical rose gold, fitted with a transparent sapphire “porthole” at 10 o’clock
Total diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 14.30 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 9 mm
Numbered edition: 1/10 to 10/10
Dynamometric crown (uncoupling system) in 18-carat rose gold, with black ceramic medallion
Screw-in exhibition back in 18-carat rose gold fitted with a sapphire crystal pane glare-proofed on both sides
Domed “chevée” sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides

Dial
Split-level dial in black grand feu enamel, white grand feu enamel hours &minutes track
Inscriptions: “FERDINAND BERTHOUD” and “CHRONOMÈTRE VAL-DE-TRAVERS” in white grand feu enamel

Hands
Dagger-type hours and minutes hands in 18-carat rose gold
Central seconds hand in gilded titanium
Arrow-shaped power reserve hand in CVD-blued 18-carat gold on the back of the movement

Strap
Hand-sewn leather strap (125 x 70 mm, with a 20 mm buckle) – Various sizes available on request
18-carat rose gold pin buckle – Double-blade length-adjustable folding clasp available on request

Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1 “Night Star”, Unique Piece for the “Only Watch” 2019 Auction

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud is taking part in the “Only Watch” charity auction for the first time. For the eighth edition of this event, it is donating a unique piece created especially for this occasion: the Chronomètre FB 1 “Night Star”. It will be sold by Christie’s in Geneva on 9th November 2019 to support funding to fight Duchenne muscular dystrophy, a form of muscle degeneration that is currently incurable.

The FB 1 “Night Star” model has a sandblasted anthracite-ceramised titanium case. This treatment renders titanium four times more resistant than traditional titanium, while giving it a distinctive appearance.

Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1 “Night Star”, Unique Piece for the “Only Watch” 2019 Auction

A play on colours is at the heart of the design of this one-of-a-kind model. It is the first ever designed by Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud to feature hands and numerals equipped with SuperLumiNova. This luminescent material, deliberately chosen in white, contrasts with the dark tones of the exterior, evoking the gleam of the stars in the night sky.

Historically, stars were navigators’ reference points for their position on the oceans, thus recalling the ancestry of the FB 1 collection, designed in the wake of Ferdinand Berthoud’s work on calculating longitude at sea.

Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1 “Night Star”, Unique Piece for the “Only Watch” 2019 Auction

Symbolically, white Super-LumiNova evokes the ray of hope that inspires the fight against Duchenne muscular dystrophy.

The black ceramic crown inlay matches the frosted black dial, a finish found on the Manufacture’s most recent models. On the case-back side, the Chronomètre FB 1 “Night Star” Chronometer features three bevelled sapphire semi-bridges, providing a chance to admire the entire black rhodium-plated movement with fusée-and-chain transmission and direct-drive seconds.

Technical details

Case
• Octagonal anthracite ceramised titanium case featuring two transparent sapphire portholes
Total diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 13 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 9 mm
Numbered edition: One-of-a-kind creation
• Dynamo metric crown (uncoupling system) in ceramised titanium with black ceramic medallion
• Screw – in exhibition back in ceramised titanium fitted with a glare proofed sapphire crystal pane
• Domed “chevée” sapphire crystal glare proofed on both sides

Dial
• Black frosted dial
• Open dial centre and power- reserve indicator hand – bevelled, with black chamfers
• Off set black frosted hours and minutes subdial, white Arabic numerals with white luminescent material (Super- LumiNova)
• Translucent black sapphire seconds track
• Power- reserve indication engraved on the main plate: “0 _ 1 / 4 _ 1 / 2 _ 3 / 4 _ 1”
• Autonomy indicated by an arrow pointing to the words “HAU T” (high) and “BAS” (low)
• “Chronomètre Val – de -Travers Suisse” inscription

Hands
• 18 – carat white gold dagger- shaped facetted cut – out hours and minutes hands with white luminescent material (Super- LumiNova)
• 18 – carat white gold arrow – shaped power- reserve hand
• Rhodium – plated bronze central seconds hands

Strap and Clasp
• Hand – stitched rolled – edge alligator leather made from a single piece of leather (115 x 7 5 mm, with a 20 mm buckle) – Various sizes available on request
• Double – blade length – adjustable ceramised titanium folding clasp – Pin buckle available on request

Indications
Hours, Minutes, Seconds and Power reserve

Movement

Mechanical manual winding Calibre FB -T. FC – 2
Diameter: 35. 50 mm
Thickness: 7.96 mm
Lignes: 15 ¾
Jewels: 45
Frequency: 21, 600 v p h ( 3 H z )
Power reserve: 53 hours

• Tourbillon with fusee – and – chain (constant – force) transmission
– Suspended fusée – differential winding system (PATENT)
– Suspended barrel – Maltese cross stop work system (PATENT)
– Suspended power reserve – mobile cone system (PATENT)
– Tourbillon with direct – drive seconds (PATENT)
• Variable – inertia balance wheel featuring four rhodium plated nickel silver inertia blocks
• Balance spring with hand – crafted steel Phillips outer terminal curve (overcoil)
• Swiss lever escapement
• Three chamfered and engraved transparent sapphire half – bridges, fitted on stylised titanium pillars
• Hand finishing in keeping with the highest watch making standards

Components
Total: 1,119 (including the chain)
Chain: 790 components
Length of the chain: 285 mm
Half – bridges: 18 including 3 in sapphire
Pillars: 6

Tourbillon
Rotation: 1/minute
Components: 67
Tourbillon carriage: Ø 16. 55 mm (titanium)
Tourbillon carriage fixed to: 3 polished titanium pillars
Tourbillon carriage poised by: 2 inertia blocks made of 18 – carat gold
Balance wheel: Ø 12 mm in copper – beryllium

Certification
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1L

Imbued with the scientific spirit of the Enlightenment, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud unveils a new experimental collection, combining the in-house tourbillon movement with a new display of the age and phases of the moon: the Chronomètre FB 1L.

Available in two ten-piece limited editions – with a case in 18-carat white gold and black ceramic lugs, or in anthracite ceramised titanium & sandblasted 18-carat white gold, this new collection displays the hours and minutes on a dedicated subdial at 12 o’clock, seconds in the centre and the 53-hour power reserve on the back of the movement. A large hand at 6 o’clock indicates the age and phases of the moon in a continuous back and forth movement. This patent-pending complication, combined with the constant force of the FB-T.FC.L calibre, ensures astronomical precision corresponding to a one-day difference in 577 years of operation.

Truly at the crossroads between astronomy and chronometry, the Chronomètre FB 1L pays tribute to Ferdinand Berthoud’s work on chronometric precision and the calculation of longitude. It was to this end that the master watchmaker designed his famous Marine Chronometers, which inspired the creation of the FB 1L collection.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1L

During the 1750s Ferdinand Berthoud submitted several documents, the first forms of patents on his many inventions, to the French Académie Royale des Sciences (Known as Académie des Sciences since 1666) in Paris. At the same time, the knight Jean-Charles de Borda also submitted his first works as an engineer, a few years later, embarking on various ships to clarify the calculation of longitude. For these missions, he used measuring instruments created by Berthoud.

This collaboration between watchmakers, engineers and sailors forms the essence of Ferdinand Berthoud’s period, the famous age of Enlightenment, which he lived through in its entirety. Its purpose was to disseminate and enhance knowledge. Ferdinand Berthoud actively contributed to both missions, as well as writing a large number of articles relating to horology for Diderot and d’Alembert’s Encyclopaedia – the first systematic attempt to provide an exhaustive summary of human knowledge – as well as authoring 11 watchmaking treatises in 30 years.

Berthoud indeed dedicated his entire life as a researcher and watchmaker to the enhancement of knowledge. His countless works on chronometric accuracy and longitude calculation were regarded as authoritative for decades. A master watchmaker at only 26 years of age, he devoted a large part of his work to marine chronometers, essential instruments for accurate measurements related to the calculation of longitude.

As early as 1752, the accuracy of these readings was greatly improved thanks to an instrument optimized by the same Jean-Charles de Borda, after whom it was named the Borda circle (also known as a repeating circle). This instrument was designed to measure angular distances by repeating the same observation several times on the circle without returning to zero. Its particularity: the more the measurements it performs are repeated, the smaller its margin of error. The Borda circle was the essential link that made it possible to pass from the octant (with an accuracy of 150 nautical miles, or more than 270 km) to the sextant (accurate to 0.2 miles, or 370 metres).

The Borda circle was conceived as an improvement of the reflecting circle invented in 1752 by Tobias Mayer, a German astronomer known for his lunar tables, which made it possible to determine the position of the Moon and hence longitude in a precise manner.

The Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1L is a tribute to these pioneers who combined their knowledge to achieve a level of chronometric and astronomical precision that would change the course of history.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1L

The FB 1L Chronometer is a model displaying the age and phases of the moon. Combining chronometric precision and astronomical measurement, it associates these two previously dissociated values which jointly made it possible – almost three centuries ago – to achieve more accurate longitude calculations, a quest at the heart of a large number of Ferdinand Berthoud’s works.

The moon phase is the most common in watchmaking. This is the complication that visually indicates the different lunar cycles. The moon phase is divided into four phases: new moon, first quarter, full moon and last quarter. A lunation or lunar cycle is the time interval between two new moons. A symbolic and aesthetic complication, the moon phase does not, however, offer the accuracy necessary for astronomical use.

The age of the moon is a more accurate indicator which counts the number of days since the last new moon. This veritable scientific measuring instrument, coupled with the chronometric measurement of time, made it possible to determine longitude at sea with unparalleled accuracy nearly 270 years ago.

For the first time, the FB 1L collection combines these two instruments: a chronometer and an indicator of the age and phases of the moon within the same model.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1L

The 100% in-house calibre of the Chronomètre FB 1L features an original suspended fusee-and-chain construction. It delivers a constant force to the escapement throughout the operation of movement, from its first turn of the crown to complete winding, thus achieving a 53-hour power reserve.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1L

The movement also features a tourbillon with direct-drive seconds, compensating for the variations in rate induced by the different positions the watch adopts throughout the day. Direct-drive seconds are made possible by the correlation between the seconds wheel and the wheel driving the tourbillon carriage.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1L

Finally, for the first time, Calibre FB-T.FC.L is complemented by a patented complication: the age of the moon. This consists of two indications. The first is the display of the moon’s age in days, marked from 1 to 14 on a sector swept over by a hand moving back and forth.

Day “1” is the first day since the new moon. Facing this “1” is a circle symbolising the latter. The next three quarters are spread over the same sector as the days go by. Facing the 14th day is a solid disc, symbolising the full moon. At this point, the hand performs a gradual backward move passing through the same quarters in the opposite direction: three quarters, two quarters, one quarter, until the return to the new moon.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1L

This display of the age of the moon is complemented by another function revealed through a dial opening between 4 and 5 o’clock, showing the current moon phase, waxing or waning, thereby indicating whether the moon-age indicator hand is rising (up to day 14) or returning (to the new moon). Since this hand progresses at a rate imperceptible to the naked eye, this precious moon-phase indication makes it possible at a single glance to see whether one is heading towards a full moon or a new moon.

This age-of-the-moon display is provided by an arrow surrounding a half-sphere accurately depicting the two large faces of the Moon – visible and hidden – on both versions of the FB 1L collection.

This original mechanism is inspired by a system for displaying the equation of time developed by Ferdinand Berthoud in 1752. It was based on the use of a feeler-spindle arm that followed an equation of time cam. In this instance, however, it is an age-of-the-moon cam.

This invention earned him the title of master watchmaker a year later, by decree of the King’s Council. This contemporary interpretation serves to provide a disc-free display of the age of the moon by means of a hand moving back and forth with an accuracy of 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 15 seconds – corresponding to a mere one-day difference in 577 years of continuous operation. This exceptional result is made possible thanks to the large number of teeth on the moving disc revealed between 4 and 5 o’clock.

The Chronomètre FB 1L thus achieves a degree of accuracy in displaying the age of the moon that exceeds conventional moon phase displays, most of which remain accurate over a period of “only” 122 years.

The accuracy of each movement in this collection is attested by a chronometry certificate issued by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

The unique features of the Ferdinand Berthoud movement are the subject of four patents, now supplemented by two other patent applications for the age-of-the-moon mechanism specific to the FB 1L models.

The distinctively shaped case is based on the architecture of the marine chronometers designed by Ferdinand Berthoud from 1760 onwards, inspired by his Marine Clocks, and their gimbal suspension in particular, which allowed the on-board chronometers to remain permanently in a horizontal position.

For the FB 1L collection, the case was completed for the first time with a selector switch placed between 4 and 5 o’clock which enables the wearer to choose between two positions, L and H, to set the age of the moon or the time.

Two versions of the Chronomètre FB 1L are available.

The FB 1L.1 “Near Side of the Moon” model favours a warm and luminous approach reminiscent of the visible face of the Moon and the intensity of the full moon. The piece has a case middle, side elements and crown in 18-carat polished white gold. Its lugs are made of black ceramic.

The FB 1L.4 “Far Side of the Moon” version evokes the dark and mysterious tones of the Moon’s hidden face. This time, its white gold case middle is sandblasted and, in place of ceramic, the lugs and side elements are made of dark grey ceramised titanium. On average four times harder than standard titanium, ceramised titanium is part of the sustainability approach adopted in the making of Ferdinand Berthoud creations, which has already led the Manufacture to develop a carburised steel with similar properties.

Each piece will be issued as a numbered ten-piece limited edition.

Technical details

Model Ref. FB 1L.1: 10-Piece White Gold Numbered and Limited Edition

Case
Octagonal 18-carat white gold case with two transparent sapphire portholes and black ceramic lug elements
Total diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 13.95 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 9 mm
Numbered edition: 01/10 to 10/10
Dynamometric crown (uncoupling system) in 18-carat white gold with black ceramic medallion
Knurled 18-carat white gold L/H (Moon/Time) selector, titanium mechanism, on the side of the case middle between 4 and 5 o’clock
Screw-down case-back in 18-carat white gold fitted with a glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Domed and arched sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides

Dial
Moon plate (dial) in rhodium-plated sandblasted brass
Hours and minutes on a rhodium-plated brass counter at 12 o’clock, circular satin-brushed finish and matt in the centre
Toothed feeler-spindle with steel spring at 9 o’clock
Lunar cycles and age of the moon cartouche in satin-brushed rhodium-plated brass with black-varnished engraved scale
“Near side of the Moon” half-globe in engraved, rhodium-plated brass between 4 and 5 o’clock
Flat inner bezel ring with seconds around the dial rim in rhodium-plated brass with black-varnished engraved scale
“CHRONOMÈTRE VAL-DE-TRAVERS SUISSE” inscription

Hands
18-carat blued gold dagger-shaped facetted cut-out hours and minutes hands
18-carat blued gold arrow-shaped power-reserve hand (on the back of the movement)
Blued bronze central seconds hands
Blued steel lunar-cycle hand and fixed moon-phase index (4 o’clock)

Strap
Hand-stitched rolled-edge alligator leather strap made from a single piece of leather (115 x 75 mm, with a 20 mm buckle) – Various sizes available on request
18-carat white gold double-blade length-adjustable folding clasp – Pin buckle available on request

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, age and phases of the moon, power reserve on the back of the movement

Movement
Mechanical manual winding Calibre FB-T.FC.L
Diameter: 37.30 mm
Thickness: 9.38 mm
Lines: 16 ½
Jewels: 55
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 53 hours

Tourbillon with fusee-and-chain (constant-force) transmission
Suspended fusée – differential winding system (PATENT)
Suspended barrel – Maltese cross stopwork system (PATENT)
Tourbillon with direct-drive seconds hand (PATENT)
Cam and feeler-spindle serving to display the age of the moon by means of a hand (PATENT PENDING)
Variable-inertia balance wheel featuring four rhodium-plated nickel silver inertia blocks
Balance spring with hand-crafted steel Phillips terminal curve
Swiss lever escapement
Three rhodium plated nickel silver half-bridges, fitted on stylised titanium pillars
Power-reserve indications on the back of the movement, black-varnished and engraved with “0 to 1” and “Rés” inscriptions
Hand finishing in keeping with the highest watchmaking standards

Components: 1,240 (including the chain)
Chain: 790 components
Length of the chain: 285 mm
Bridges: 18
Pillars: 6

Tourbillon
– Rotation: 1 /minute
– Components: 67
– Tourbillon carriage: Ø 16.55 mm (titanium)
– Tourbillon carriage assembled with: 3 polished titanium pillars
– Tourbillon carriage poised by: 2 inertia blocks in 18-carat gold
– Balance wheel: Ø 12 mm in copper-beryllium

Certification
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC

Model REF. FB 1L.4: 10-Piece Anthracite Ceramised Titanium Numbered and Limited Edition

Case
Octagonal case in anthracite ceramised titanium & 18-carat sandblasted white gold featuring two transparent sapphire portholes
Total diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 13.95 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 9 mm
Numbered edition: 01/10 to 10/10
Dynamometric crown (uncoupling system) in 18-carat sandblasted white gold
Knurled anthracite ceramised titanium L/H (Moon/Time) selector, on the side of the case middle between 4 and 5 o’clock
Screw-down case-back in 18-carat white gold fitted with a glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Domed and arched sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides

Dial
Moon plate (dial) in black PVD-coated sandblasted brass
Hours and minutes in black PVD-coated brass counter at 12 o’clock, circular satin-brushed finish and matt in the centre
Toothed feeler-spindle with steel spring at 9 o’clock
Lunar cycles and age of the moon cartouche in satin-brushed black PVD-treated brass with grey-varnished engraved scale
“Far side of the Moon” half-globe in engraved and rhodium-plated brass between 4 and 5 o’clock
Flat inner bezel ring bearing the seconds around the dial rim, in black PVD-treated brass with grey-varnished engraved scale
“CHRONOMÈTRE VAL-DE-TRAVERS SUISSE” inscription

Hands
18-carat white gold dagger-shaped facetted cut-out hours and minutes hands
Rhodium plated 18-carat gold arrow-shaped power-reserve hand (on the back of the movement)
Rhodium plated bronze central seconds hands
Polished steel lunar-cycle hand and fixed moon-phase index (4 o’clock)

Strap
Hand-stitched rolled-edge alligator leather strap made from a single piece of leather (115 x 75 mm, with a 20 mm buckle) – Various sizes available on request
Titanium double-blade length-adjustable folding clasp – Pin buckle available on request

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, age and phases of the moon, power reserve on the back of the movement

Movement
Mechanical manual winding Calibre FB-T.FC.L
Diameter: 37.30 mm
Thickness: 9.38 mm
Lines: 16 ½
Jewels: 55
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 53 hours

Tourbillon with fusee-and-chain (constant-force) transmission
Suspended fusée – differential winding system (PATENT)
Suspended barrel – Maltese cross stopwork system (PATENT)
Tourbillon with direct-drive seconds hand (PATENT)
Cam and feeler-spindle serving to display the age of the moon by means of a hand (PATENT PENDING)
Variable-inertia balance wheel featuring four rhodium-plated nickel silver inertia blocks
Balance spring with hand-crafted steel Phillips terminal curve
Swiss lever escapement
Three black rhodium plated nickel silver half-bridges, fitted on stylised titanium pillars
Power-reserve indications on the back of the movement, black-varnished and engraved with “0 to 1” and “Rés” inscriptions
Hand finishing in keeping with the highest watchmaking standards

Components: 1,240 (including the chain)
Chain: 790 components
Length of the chain: 285 mm
Bridges: 18
Pillars: 6

Tourbillon
– Rotation: 1 /minute
– Components: 67
– Tourbillon carriage: 16.55 mm (titanium)
– Tourbillon carriage assembled with: 3 polished titanium pillars
– Tourbillon carriage poised by: 2 inertia blocks in 18-carat gold
– Balance wheel: Ø 12 mm in copper-beryllium

Certification
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud “Oeuvre d’Or” Collection

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud unveils the “Oeuvre d’Or” collection, a new artistic interpretation of its original creation, the Chronomètre FB 1.

This model previously existed in two gold versions: white gold with titanium lugs (FB1.1) and rose gold with black ceramic lugs (FB 1.2). The collection now welcomes two additional variations, reprising the precious metals of their predecessors, white gold (FB 1.1-2) and rose gold (FB 1.2-1) respectively, while adorning them with original decorations.

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud “Oeuvre d’Or” Collection

These new entirely hand-crafted decorations are lavished on both the dial and its engravings, as well as the movement half-bridges, entirely crafted in 18-carat gold. The white gold version is also the very first gemset creation from Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud.

These two new editions are issued in exclusive five-piece limited editions. They are directly inspired by a model created by Ferdinand Berthoud, astronomical pocket watch No. 3, assembled and adjusted in Paris in 1806 by his student, Jean Martin. It is now part of the L.U.CEUM collection in Fleurier.

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud “Oeuvre d’Or” Collection

The Chronomètre FB 1 is the first creation from Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. Entirely crafted within the Manufacture in Fleurier, it stems from many years of development.

Its slant-edged case is inspired by the architecture of the marine chronometers designed by Ferdinand Berthoud from 1760 onwards. It was on December 13th of that year that he submitted to the French Académie des Sciences his Mémoire sur les principes de construction d’une Horloge de Marine. This description of the construction principles for a marine clock laid the foundations for Ferdinand Berthoud’s very first marine chronometer, which was completed the following year, in 1761. For more than 45 years, Ferdinand Berthoud perfected its movements so as to achieve the highest possible chronometric precision.

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud “Oeuvre d’Or” Collection

The FB 1 collection of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud pays tribute to this work and to the movements that pioneered chronometric precision. Its case is inspired by Ferdinand Berthoud’s marine chronometers, in particular their gimbal suspension that served to maintain on-board chronometers in a permanently horizontal position.

The movement is placed in the centre of a water tight container and has a characteristic pillar-type structure. This technique of affixing bridges to the mainplate was no longer in use until this new revival. It lightens the structure of the movement and at the same time enables a very open view of its details and finishes. This 100% in-house movement has three distinctive features.

First of all, the movement comprises an original suspended fusee-and-chain transmission system. The latter serves to deliver constant force to the escapement throughout the running time of the movement, from its first turn of the crown through to complete winding, thereby serving to achieve 53 hours of power reserve. Secondly, the calibre is equipped with a direct-drive seconds tourbillon.

The tourbillon itself makes it possible to compensate for the variations in movement induced by the different positions to which a wristwatch will have to adapt, several dozen times a day. This direct-drive seconds display is made possible by the correlation between the fourth wheel and the wheel driving the tourbillon carriage, both perfectly identical and visible on the dial side.

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud “Oeuvre d’Or” Collection

Finally, the FB-T.FC calibre is equipped with a power-reserve indicator operating in an atypical manner. It rests on a mobile cone which, in association with the rotation of the cylinder, moves up and down according to the state of wind. A jewel-tipped mobile arm (feeler spindle), takes an extremely accurate measurement, which it then transmits to a visible hand on the dial side. The accuracy of each movement is attested by a chronometry certificate issued by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). Four patents have been filed for the unique features of the Ferdinand Berthoud movement.

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud “Oeuvre d’Or” Collection

These two new five-piece limited editions entirely reproduce the original movement of the Chronométrie FB 1, while adding totally exclusive decorations. The first limited edition, named FB 1.1-2, features several new finishes.

The first appears on the dial side: the Chronomètre FB 1.1-2 harmoniously combines an 18-carat white gold case with an 18-carat yellow gold dial. The distinctive design of the watch face offers a broad surface on which to express an exclusive finish: a hand-crafted patina. This patina is created using a combination of engraving techniques that require great manual dexterity.

First of all, the gold is finely grained with a graver. The surface is then crafted at length using a tool called a “rocker”, enabling the light to glide across the dial to the rhythm of the shimmering reflections of the moiré effect thus created. A symbol of the passing of time and of Ferdinand Berthoud’s legacy, this combination of artistic techniques recalls the natural patina of the dial of the astronomical pocket watch No. 3 that inspired the Chronomètre FB 1.

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud “Oeuvre d’Or” Collection

Each of the five dials in this limited edition is hand-engraved and then subtly coloured to perfect the overall legibility. The FB 1.1-2 model, like Ferdinand Berthoud’s original creations, is adorned with manual engravings that make it unique: “Ferdinand Berthoud – Chronomètre – Val-de-Travers – Suisse”, followed by the individual limited-edition number, “N° X/5”. Opposite these engravings are those indicating the power reserve of the movement: “Haut” and “Bas” (High and Low).

Another style of original finishes appears on the case-back side. For the first time, the FB 1 collection features a “pyramid” motif decoration adorning the entire surface of its three half-bridges, an authentic artisanal feat demonstrating the know-how of the Manufacture’s engravers. The material is cut free-hand with flawless precision and regularity using a graver.

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud “Oeuvre d’Or” Collection

Already adorning two elements of the Regulator FB 1R, this “pyramid” decoration is inspired by the base of a clock by Ferdinand Berthoud, kept at the L.U.CEUM, in Fleurier. It is an astronomical measuring instrument, just like the astronomical pocket watch No.3 which inspired the FB 1.1-2 model. The latter thus reinforces its astronomical flliation by deploying the “pyramid” decoration on the back of the movement, offering an expressive new touch to the reverse side of the calibre which reveals the tourbillon, the barrel, as well as the fusee-and-chain transmission system.

This decoration also includes 18-carat gold cartouches bearing the inscriptions “Ferdinand Berthoud, Chronomètre Suisse 45 rubis”. This is Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud’s first use of invisibly-screwed cartouches. They lend a new dimension to the back of the timepiece as well as aesthetic coherence, reflecting the finish of the tourbillon bridge.

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud “Oeuvre d’Or” Collection

The new FB 1.1-2 model in 18-carat white gold stands out in terms of the case itself, since some of its faces are adorned with baguette-cut diamonds for the very first time. There are four in all: on either side of the crown and alongside the engraving of the limited-edition number facing it at 9 o’clock. In other words, the FB 1.1-2 model is the first creation in its lineage to feature gemsetting instead of the sapphire crystal portholes that historically revealed the key movement components.

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud “Oeuvre d’Or” Collection

This new five-piece limited edition radiates a sparkling, exclusive jewellery design. The crown is also set, a first for Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. The exclusive choice of baguette-cut diamonds evokes the vertical pillar-type construction of the movement beating at its heart.

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud “Oeuvre d’Or” Collection

The second limited series, called FB 1.2-1, displays most of the characteristics of the 1.1-2 model. The movement, finishes and dial engravings are similar. The differences lie in the fact that its case is entirely made of 18-carat rose gold, as are the dial, lugs, fastening screws and three half-bridges visible through the back.

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud “Oeuvre d’Or” Collection

For the first time, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has applied the use of rose gold to all these elements, thus ensuring a perfectly consistent appearance of the five FB 1.2-1 timepieces while giving a new glow to the FB 1 collection.

To accompany this unprecedented chromatic development, the Manufacture has chosen a set of hands in blued gold for the hours, minutes and power reserve and in blued bronze for the central sweep-seconds hand. The blue colour is reminiscent of the blue steel hands on the astronomical pocket watch No. 3 of 1806.

Finally, for a smoother transition between dial and movement, the chamfers surrounding the tourbillon have been polished by hand, as have those around the power-reserve indication. Within these openings (tourbillon and power reserve), the Manufacture alternates between straight-grained and circular satin-brushed decorations, thereby individually highlighting each component according to its position, material and function.

CHRONOMÈTRE FB1 – ŒUVRE D’OR, REF. FB 1.1-2
Numbered Five – Piece Limited Edition in Gem-set 18-Carat White Gold

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud “Oeuvre d’Or” Collection

Case
Octagonal 18-carat white gold case set with 20 baguette-cut diamonds (1.99 ct)
Total diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 13 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 9 mm
Numbered edition: 1/5 to 5/ 5

Dynamometric system (coupling system) in 18-carat white gold with a black ceramic medallion, set with 14 baguette-cut diamonds (0.8 ct)
18-carat white gold screw-in exhibition back fitted with a sapphire crystal pane
Black ceramic lugs and black DLC-treated titanium fastening screws
Domed and arched sapphire crystal, glare-proofed on both sides

Dial
18-carat (3N) yellow gold dial, engraved and patinated by hand
Hand-bevelled dial centre and power-reserve indicator, rhodium-plated chamfers
Offset circular satin-brushed silver-toned gold hours and minutes subdial, black Arabic numerals
Circular satin-brushed silver-toned gold seconds track
Power-reserve indication engraved on the main plate: “0_ 1/ 4_ 1/ 2_ 3/ 4_ 1”
Autonomy indicated by an arrow pointing to the words “HAUT” (high) and “BAS” (low )
Hand-engraved inscriptions: “Ferdinand Berthoud” “Chronomètre Val-de-Travers Suisse” and the limited edition number

Hands
Black nickel-plated 18-carat gold dagger-shaped facetted cut-out hours and minutes hands
Black nickel-plated 18-carat gold arrow-shaped power-reserve pointer
Black nickel-plated bronze central seconds hand

Strap
Hand-stitched rolled-edge alligator leather made from a single piece of leather (1 15 x 75 mm, with a 20 mm buck le) – Various sizes available on request
18-carat white gold pin buckle

Indications
Hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve

Movement
Mechanical manual-winding Calibre FB-T.FC-3
Diameter: 35.50 mm
Thickness: 7.96 mm
Lignes: 15 ¾
Jewels: 45
Frequency: 21,600 vph(3Hz)
Power reserve: 53 hours

Tourbillon with fusee-and-chain (constant-force) transmission
Suspended fusée – differential winding system (PATENT)
Suspended barrel – Maltese cross stopwork system (PATENT)
Suspended power reserve – mobile cone system (PATENT)
Tourbillon with direct-drive seconds (PATENT)
Variable-inertia balance wheel featuring four gold-plated nickel silver inertia blocks
Balance spring with hand-crafted steel Phillips outer terminal curve (over coil)
Swiss lever escapement
Three 18-carat (3N) yellow gold half-bridges, hand-engraved with the “pyramid” motif and fitted on stylized titanium pillars
Hand finishing in keeping with the highest watchmaking standards

Components: 1,119 (including the chain)
Chain: 790 components
Length of the chain: 285 mm
Half-bridges: 18 including three in 18-carat (3N) yellow gold
Pillars: six

Tourbillon
Rotation: 1 /minute
Components: 67
Tourbillon carriage: Ø 16. 55 mm (titanium)
Tourbillon carriage fixed to three polished titanium pillars
Tourbillon carriage poised by two 18-carat gold inertia blocks
Balance wheel: Ø 12 mm in copper-beryllium
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC

CHRONOMÈTRE FB1 – ŒUVRE D’OR, REF. FB1.2-1
Numbered Five – Piece Limited Edition in 18-Carat Rose Gold

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud “Oeuvre d’Or” Collection

Case
Octagonal 1 8-carat rose (5N) gold case
Total diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 13 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 9 mm
Numbered edition: 1/5 to 5/ 5
Dynamometric system (coupling system) with 18- carat (5N) rose gold medallion
18-carat (5N) rose gold screw -in exhibition back fitted with a sapphire crystal pane
18-carat (5N) rose gold lugs and fastening screws
Domed and arched sapphire crystal, glare-proofed on both sides

Dial
18-carat (5N) rose gold dial, engraved and patinated by hand
Hand-bevelled dial centre and power-reserve indicator, rhodium -plated chamfers
Offset circular satin-brushed silver-toned gold hours and minutes subdial, black Arabic numerals
Circular satin-brushed silver-toned gold seconds track
Power-reserve indication engraved on the mainplate: “0_1/ 4_1/ 2_3/ 4_1”
Autonomy indicated by an arrow pointing to the words “HAUT” (high) and “BAS” (low)
Hand-engraved inscriptions: “Ferdinand Berthoud” “Chronomètre Val-de-Travers Suisse” and the limited edition number

Hands
Blued 18-carat gold dagger-shaped facetted cut-out hours and minutes hands
Blued 18-carat gold arrow-shaped power-reserve pointer
Blued bronze central seconds hand

Strap
Hand- stitched rolled-edge alligator leather made from a single piece of leather (115 x 75 mm, with a 20 mm buckle)
18-carat rose gold pin buckle

Indications
Hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve

Movement
Mechanical manual-winding Calibre FB-T.FC-3
Diameter: 35.50 mm
Thickness: 7.96 mm
Lignes: 15 ¾
Jewels: 45
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 53 hours

Tourbillon with fusee- and-chain (constant-force) transmission device
Suspended fusée – differential winding system (PATENT)
Suspended barrel – Maltese cross stopwork system (PATENT)
Suspended power reserve – mobile cone system (PATENT)
Tourbillon with direct -drive seconds (PATENT)
Variable-inertia balance wheel featuring four gold-plated nickel silver inertia blocks
Balance spring with hand-crafted steel Phillips outer terminal curve (over coil)
Swiss lever escapement
Three chamfered and engraved 18-carat (5N) rose gold half-bridges, hand-engraved with the ‘pyramid’ motif, fitted on stylised titanium pillars
Hand finishing in keeping with the highest watchmaking standards

Components: 1,119 (including the chain)
Chain: 790 components
Length of the chain: 285 mm
Half-bridges: 18 including three in sapphire
Pillars: six

Tourbillon
Rotation: 1 /minute
Components: 67
Tourbillon carriage: Ø 16. 55 mm (titanium)
Tourbillon carriage fixed to: Three polished titanium pillars
Tourbillon carriage poised by: Two 18-carat gold inertia blocks
Balance wheel: Ø 12 mm in copper-beryllium
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC

Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R Chronometer 1785 Edition

This special edition collection, comprising five unique interpretations of the FB 1R chronometer manufactured by Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, pays tribute to the most important expedition in French naval history, that of the Astrolabe and Boussole frigates in 1785 commanded by the Count of Lapérouse.

This voyage was assisted by the chronometers made by Ferdinand Berthoud. Dressed in a patinated bronze case, each of the five unique timepieces from the 1785 edition recalls that of period marine instruments.

Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R Chronometer 1785 Edition

A new interpretation of the Chronomètre FB 1R presented at the SIHH 2018, the 1785 edition is a series of five bronze watches – each of which is truly unique due to the use of various artistic patinas – embodying a double homage. The first tribute is paid to Ferdinand Berthoud’s Marine Clock no 7, a major source of technical and aesthetic inspiration for this regulator-type model.

Secondly, the name of the 1785 edition harks back to the famous exploratory round-the-world voyage undertaken by Lapérouse between 1785 and 1788. The presence of bronze with its unique patina as well as calibre FB-T.FC.R are all reminders of the instruments used for measuring time at sea. Marine chronometers and sextants were the only means of calculating longitude and thereby represented decisive factors in the success of their respective expeditions.

Jean-François de Galaup, count de Lapérouse was one of the most illustrious explorers in his nation. His navigational and leadership talents, along with his considerable experience, led Louis XVI to entrust him with the boldest campaign of maritime exploration France had ever undertaken. On August 1st 1785, he sailed from Brest with two frigates, L’Astrolabe and La Boussole. Aboard them were 220 officers, scholars and sailors. Lapérouse took the helm of the Boussole and entrusted the Astrolabe to his second in command, the brilliant officer and navigator Paul-Antoine Fleuriot, Viscount of Langle.

The purpose of this expedition was to circle the globe in order to complete its cartography and to pursue exploration of the Pacific Ocean. The two ships were equipped with the finest measurement and observational instruments of the era, including five marine chronometers by Ferdinand Berthoud, Clockmaker and Mechanic by appointment to the French King and Navy since 1770.

During the two and half years of this voyage, Lapérouse and his men crossed the North and South Atlantic, rounded Cape Horn and sailed up to Alaska via Hawaii. They then crossed the world’s widest ocean to reach Macao, travelling up the Chinese coast before heading towards the South Pacific via the Tonga Islands. A few months after a stopover in Australia, in March 1788, they vanished somewhere between the Salomon Islands and the Vanuatu archipelago.

Subsequently, several expeditions launched to seek out Lapérouse’s ships came across traces of the shipwreck. They discovered that the Astrolabe had foundered on the Vanikoro Islands in the Santa Cruz archipelago, while the Boussole had sunk. A few members of the crew survived the double shipwreck. Among other objects found in Vanikora, a sextant was unearthed in 2005, oxidised yet intact after 217 years. Crafted in bronze, this fundamental navigating instrument inspired the patina colours of the 1785 edition.

Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R Chronometer 1785 Edition

The FB 1R chronometers in the 1785 edition measure 44 mm in diameter and less than 14 mm thick. The beadblasted case is entirely made of bronze, an alloy chosen for its capacity to acquire a distinctive patina. The five regulator models, numbered Fb 1R.5-1 and FB 1R.5-5, all feature a different colour. This is because each of the de facto unique patinas of these models has been made using a distinct formula, chosen after dozens of trials and tests. The aim was to achieve the desired shades while ensuring their dermo-compatibility in compliance with the REACH regulations of the European Union.

The case features two bronze side shafts in bronze that endow it with a characteristic octagonal shape. The sides bear two portholes at 2 and 11 o’clock, providing a chance to admire the fusee and chain mechanism in action. These two openings are complemented by the glareproofed sapphire crystal case-back affording a pleasing glimpse of the movement finishing. The knurled bronze crown featuring a titanium medallion ensures smooth and easy winding of the movement. The latter is endowed with a 53-hour power reserve.

Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R Chronometer 1785 Edition

The chronometers of the 1785 edition are resolutely different to existing regulator-type displays. They feature a mostly solid dial, which is in fact the reverse side of the regulator-display complication plate.

The latter is made of nickel silver, vertically satin-brushed by hand, and feature three small openings. The first provides a reading of the dragging seconds, offset at 2 o’clock. They are displayed on a glareproofed sapphire disc with transfer-printed Arabic numerals, which stand out clearly against the white background. The second reveals an unusual power-reserve display mechanism, highlighted by a wide dial cut-out showing part of the finely sandblasted baseplate.

The third opening is located in the centre of the 12 o’clock minutes counter. Finely chamfered, beadblasted and adorned with gilded chamfers, the central opening provides a fascinating view of the gear train with its hand-engraved pyramid-motif decoration. The latter is inspired by that of a skeletonised astronomical clock by Ferdinand Berthoud that belongs to the L.U.CEUM collection. The seconds appear around the rim of the dial, on a beadblasted and chamfered nickel silver inner bezel ring.

Finally, the nature and origin of the chronometers composing the 1785 edition are flaunted on the large dial, engraved with the inscription “Chronomètre Val-de-Travers Suisses”. More than a mere signature or an appellation of origin, this is a proudly proclaimed affirmation of identity.

A patent has been filed for the highly sophisticated device serving to indicate the power reserve. Visible through an open-worked half-bridge on the case-back side, a truncated cone moves up and down along a worm screw-type arbor attached to the barrel. A mobile arm topped by a roller acts as a feeler spindle and its position on the cone reflects the barrel’s state-of-wind.

The feeler-spindle transmits the information regarding the quantity of energy stored in the barrel to a set of finely chamfered and rhodium-plated levers visible through a cut-out in the regulator-display plate. A spiral-shaped spring at the end of its travel exerts pressure on the base of the power-reserve hand. This spring serves to reduce the play between the various components of this mechanism and to display power reserve with peerless precision. This ingenious mechanism reflects the experimental mindset of Ferdinand Berthoud himself, who revelled in exploring solutions well off the beaten track.

Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R Chronometer 1785 Edition

Calibre FB-T.FC.R-2 is one of the rare movements to feature a fusee and chain transmission system, the oldest solution for ensuring a constant-force supply of energy to the escapement. It acts like an automatic reduction gear box, since the torque delivered by the barrel varies according to the state-of-wind.

When the movement is fully wound, the chain is entirely wrapped around the small end of the spindle-shaped fusee and the mainspring is at maximum power. This force dwindles over time and the chain coils around the drum, transitioning from the narrow to the broad end of the fusee. The varying diameter of the fusee compensates for the reduction in mainspring torque. The escapement thus receives a constant supply of energy, thereby equalling out the amplitude of the balance wheel and improving the movement’s precision.

The latter also stems from the tourbillon. Visible on the case-back side only, it comprises 67 parts housed in a 16.5 mm-diameter titanium carriage – itself fixed to a perfectly polished and hand-chamfered arrow-shaped steel arch. To counteract the unbalance of the escapement, two gilded nickel silver poising weights equal out the masses of this large carriage. The tourbillon itself does not indicate the seconds, since the chronometers of the 1785 edition feature a tourbillon with an extremely long and slender gilded bronze seconds hand which glides with remarkable precision and stability.

Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R Chronometer 1785 Edition

Together, these two outstanding horological systems, interpreted in accordance with the best practices, endow calibre FB-T.FC.R-2 with chronometer status, a title awarded by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

The bridges of calibre FB-T.FC.R-2 are made from non-treated nickel silver which is also distinguished by its warm grey colour. It sits particularly well with bronze, a material used for the first time by Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, yet firmly anchored in the history of both watch making and navigation.

The arrow-shaped steel tourbillon bridge is decorated with meticulous care. The upper surface is mirror-polished, the sides are straight-grained and the angles are polished. All components of the titanium tourbillon carriage are entirely chamfered. The power-reserve cone is mirror-polished. The two bridges framing the tourbillon are openworked. The chain, composed of 790 steel parts and measuring 285 cm long, is entirely hand-finished. The sides and stud-pins are satin-brushed, while the flat surfaces are polished.

The finishing operations on the components, whatever their place or function, are done manually by Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud using traditional tools.

Technical details

Model: FB 1R Chronometer 1785 Edition
Edition of Five One-of-a-Kind Models in Patinated Bronze

Case
Octagonal case in patinated bronze, featuring two transparent sapphire portholes
Total diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 13.95 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 9 mm
Numbered edition: FB 1R.5-1 to FB 1R.5-5

Five different types of patina featuring varying degrees of oxidisation and colours
Dynamometric crown (uncoupling system) in patinated bronze, with beadblasted titanium medallion
Screw-in titanium case-back fitted with a glareproofed sapphire pane
Domed flat-topped sapphire crystal glareproofed on both sides

Dial
Regulator-display plate (dial) in hand satin-brushed natural nickel silver
Hours indication on a sapphire disc at 2 o’clock
Minutes subdial at 12 o’clock, openworked and beadblasted, gilded chamfers, black Arabic numerals
Beadblasted nickel silver flat inner bezel ring seconds display
Power-reserve indication at 10 o’clock engraved on the regulator plate from “0_1”
Inscription: “CHRONOMÈTRE VAL-DE-TRAVERS SUISSE”

Hands
Sword-shaped minutes hand in 18-carat gold blued, facetted and openworked
Hours index in blued steel
Power-reserve hand shaped like a blued steel arrow
Blued bronze central sweep-seconds hand

Strap
Rolled-edge hand-sewn patinated chestnut brown alligator leather made from a single swathe of leather (115 x 75 mm, buckle 20 mm) – Various sizes available on request
Titanium pin buckle

Indications
Disc-type hours display at 2 o’clock, pointer-type minutes indication at 12 o’clock, central seconds, power-reserve appearing at 10 o’clock

Movement
Mechanical hand-wound Calibre FB-T.FC.R-2
Diameter: 35.50 mm
Thickness: 9.89 mm
Lignes: 15 ¾
Jewels: 49
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 53 hours

Tourbillon with fusee and chain (constant force) transmission
– Suspended fusee – winding differential system (PATENT)
– Suspended barrel – Maltese cross stopwork system (PATENT)
– Suspended power reserve – mobile cone system (PATENT)
– Direct-drive tourbillon seconds hand (PATENT)

Regulator-type display
Lever and spiral spring-type power-reserve indicator
Variable-inertia balance incorporating four weights in rhodium-plated nickel silver
Balance-spring with hand-crafted Phillips terminal curve (steel)
Swiss lever escapement
Openworked and engraved nickel silver half-bridges, fitted on stylised polished titanium pillars
Hand finishing in accordance with the highest watch industry standards
Components: 1,158 (including the chain)
Chain: 790 parts
Chain length: 285 mm
Half-bridges: 18
Pillars: 6

Tourbillon
– Rotation:  1 /minute
– Components: 67
– Tourbillon carriage: Ø 16.55 mm (titanium)
– Tourbillon carriage fitted on: 3 polished titanium pillars
– Tourbillon carriage balanced by: 2 gilded nickel silver poising weights
– Balance wheel: Ø 12 mm (copper-beryllium)

Certification
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC

Ferdinand Berthoud FB-1R.6-1

The Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud collection welcomes a new model FB-1R.6-1, which comes dressed in an ultra-resistant carburised stainless steel and boasts an original regulator-type display.

Issued in a 20-piece limited edition, this exceptional timepiece houses FB-T.FC.R tourbillon calibre with fusee-and-chain transmission that can be admired through a sapphire crystal case-back and two lateral portholes, offering a unique view inside this outstanding chronometer.

Like the previous editions of the Chronomètre FB 1, its movement is equipped with horological complications inspired by the scientific instruments represented by Ferdinand Berthoud’s marine chronometers.

The appearance of the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 takes its cues from the Marine Chronometer No. 7 that housed a number of solutions for improving the operating principles of longitude watches. Among them was its display that differed from the usual rules governing regulators – which assign a different place on the dial to the hours, minutes and seconds displays – by the use of a large central seconds hand.

Ferdinand Berthoud FB-1R.6-1

The Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 adds some unusual details and a unique presentation to the aesthetic and technical characteristics of the previous versions. It is still a 44 mm-diameter watch, featuring a less than 14 mm-thick case that sits naturally and comfortably on the wrist.

It is composed of a steel cylinder housing the movement. The molecular structure of this steel has been reinforced by a thermo-chemical process involving the diffusion of vapour-phase carbon, thereby guaranteeing an exceptional surface hardness of 1200 Vickers and making it extremely robust. It is also exceptionally corrosion-resistant and biocompatible.

The case features two octagonal-shaped stainless steel side pieces, giving it a characteristic shape including two lateral portholes at 2 and 11 o’clock – providing a chance to admire the chain-and-fusee mechanism in action. These two openings are complemented by a screw-down stainless steel case-back fitted with glare-proofed sapphire crystal enabling observers to appreciate the high-quality finishing lavished on the FB-T.FC-R movement.

The knurled 9mm-diameter stainless steel crown bearing a black ceramic medallion ensures smooth winding of the movement endowed with a 53-hour power reserve.

Ferdinand Berthoud FB-1R.6-1

The novel construction of the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud IR.6-1 sets it apart from all existing regulator-type displays. Instead of featuring a high-up opening providing a view of the tourbillon and the fourth wheel (driving the seconds) as on previous versions, the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 has a mostly solid dial.

It is made of nickel silver, vertically satin-brushed by hand and black rhodium-plated. Of the three small apertures, the first serves to show the hours, offset at 2 o’clock and appearing on a glare-proofed sapphire crystal disc bearing transferred Arabic numerals striking a pleasing contrast with a white background.

The second opening features an original power-reserve display mechanism, distinguished by a large dial cut-out revealing part of the finely sandblasted and black rhodium-plated mainplate.

Located in the centre of the finely chamfered, bead-blasted and black rhodium-plated minutes counter, the third aperture displays a hand-engraved “pyramid” motif inspired by an open-worked Ferdinand Berthoud astronomical clock belonging to the L.U.CEUM collection. Meanwhile, the seconds appear around the rim of the dial on a flat inner bezel ring made of black rhodium-plated, bead-blasted and chamfered nickel silver.

Ferdinand Berthoud FB-1R.6-1

Finally, the nature and provenance of the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 can be read off on this large dial, engraved with the inscription “Chronomètre Val-de-Travers Suisse”.

A patent has been filed for the extremely sophisticated power-reserve indication mechanism. Visible through a cut-out in the half-bridge on the case-back side, a truncated cone moves up and down along an arbor connected to the barrel. This suspended cone is topped by a feeler spindle in the form of a mobile arm tipped with a watch jewel. The latter’s position on the cone reflects the barrel’s state of wind.

Ferdinand Berthoud FB-1R.6-1

The feeler spindle in turn transmits the quantity of energy accumulated by the mainspring to a set of finely chamfered and rhodium-plated flat levers visible through a cut-out in the regulator plate. Its role is to amplify the displacement of the power-reserve hand.

A spiral spring placed at the far end of its travel exercises a force on the base of the power-reserve hand. This spring serves to compensate for the play between the various components of this mechanism and to display the power reserve with peerless precision.

A number of complex mathematical calculations and various tests served to fine-tune the geometry of this spring, made from a nickel-phosphorous alloy in order to guarantee the concentric deployment of the coils in all states of winding and unwinding, and thereby to avoid any unattractive distortion that might also be detrimental to the smooth running of the mechanism.

Ferdinand Berthoud FB-1R.6-1

The FB-T.FC.R calibre is built according to a unique architectural concept. This hand-wound movement features 18 nickel silver bridges framed by polished titanium pillars surrounding the mechanical organs. This construction is typical of 18th century marine chronometers. The architectural approach is picked up in the design of all the components, and especially in the symmetrical equilibrium of the movement.

The distinctive nature of the FB-T.FC.R calibre lies in its inverted upside-down barrel and fusee, and particularly in the fact that both elements are suspended, meaning held on only one side. A patent has been filed for this construction which saves precious millimetres. At 9.89 mm thick, the movement of the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 thus remains extremely thin for its category despite the regulator-type display and the new power-reserve indication.

When the mainspring is combined with a fusee, the barrel drum turns in one direction when the spring is unwinding and in the other when it is winding, hence serving to coil the chain. The movement generally stops while this type of mechanism is being wound. To prevent this, the FB-T.FC.R calibre is equipped with a differential gear based on an original concept and for which patent has also been filed. It enables the balance wheel to continue oscillating during winding and thereby maintain the movement’s precision timekeeping properties.

The winding mechanism is fitted with a pinion featuring cone-shaped toothing. Coupled with a large-diameter knurled crown, it enables smooth movement winding.

As typically found on chain and fusee mechanisms, the barrel of Calibre FB-T.FC.R is equipped with a “Maltese Cross” stopwork device. The latter serves to limit the winding turns of the mainspring to around six, so as to use only the most stable portion of this spring. This device also acts as a buffer when the barrel is fully wound. At that point, the mainspring torque exerts a 3 kg force, which is considerable for the chain components measuring just a few millimetres.

To perfect the security of the movement, the engineers at Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud have equipped the crown with a dynamometric function serving to avoid any damage to the movement that might be caused by excessive winding.

Teamed with the fourth (seconds) wheel and pinion, the tourbillon of Calibre FB-T.FC-R comprises 67 components assembled within a titanium carriage measuring 16.55 mm in diameter, and fixed to a perfectly hand-polished and chamfered arrow-shaped steel arch whose tip points towards the space between the barrel and the fusee. To poise the escapement’s unbalance, two 18-carat gold inertia-blocks ensure the uniform spread of the weights of this large-size tourbillon.

This tourbillon contributes to earning Calibre FB-T.FC.R its chronometer title awarded by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

One particular characteristic makes the tourbillon extremely distinctive: although it performs one rotation per minute, it does not indicate the seconds, since the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 is one of the rare tourbillons to have a central sweep-seconds hand. Extremely long, slim and made of gilded bronze, the latter moves with remarkable accuracy and in a remarkable stable manner.

Ferdinand Berthoud FB-1R.6-1

Within the traditional approach to watchmaking, construction and mechanical structure are inseparable from the choice of materials and the quality of the finishing. In this respect, the movement of the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 is in a league of its own. The bridges of Calibre FB-T.FC.R are made of untreated nickel silver, a copper, zinc and nickel alloy that is distinguished by its warm grey colour.

The watch case is made with ultra-resistant carburised steel, based on a high-tech thermos-chemical surface treatment. It consists of diffusing carbon into a steel substrate, thereby increasing the hardness of the alloy without destroying its initial properties. In this instance, it reaches the record figure of 1200 Vickers, making the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 exceptionally scratch-resistant.

The choice of this type of steel, currently used in the aerospace industry, is a nod to the maritime expeditions achieved using the Marine Chronometers produced by Ferdinand Berthoud in the 18th century and which required the use of extremely sturdy materials.

Ferdinand Berthoud FB-1R.6-1

The stainless steel arrow-shaped tourbillon bridge is decorated with the utmost care. The upper side is specular-polished, the flanks are straight-grained, the angels are polished and the underside is circular-grained and smooth-polished.

All levels of the titanium tourbillon bridge are entirely chamfered. Some surfaces are polished, others circular satin-brushed, sandblasted or smooth-polished. The lever bridge is completely chamfered and its visible side features a specular-polished finish while its hidden side is straight-grained. The power-reserve cone is mirror-polished.

The two bridges framing the tourbillon of the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 feature cut-outs. Through one of these apertures, the baseplate has been engraved with the same pyramid pattern as the hours dial, while the other reveals the power-reserve cone in all its splendour.

The barrel and fusee are gilded, creating a pleasing contrast with the rough nickel silver and titanium which are omnipresent in the movement. The 790-part stainless steel chain measuring 285 mm long is also entirely hand-finished. The sides and studs are satin-brushed and the flat surfaces are polished.

Whatever the position and function of the components, these finishing operations are entirely done by hand using traditional tools in the workshops of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud.

Technical details

Model: REF. FB 1R.6-1
20-piece stainless steel limited numbered edition

Case
Case in ultra-resistant carburised stainless steel, fitted with two transparent sapphire crystal portholes
Total diameter:  44 mm
Thickness: 13.95 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 9 mm
Numbered edition:   01/20 to 20/20
Dynamometric crown (uncoupling system) in stainless steel, with black ceramic medallion
Screw-down stainless steel case-back fitted with a glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Domed and arched sapphire crystal, with anti-reflective treatment on both sides

Dial
Regulator plate (dial) in black rhodium-plated nickel silver, satin-brushed by hand
Hours indication on a sapphire disc at 2 o’clock
Minutes subdial at 12 o’clock, cut-out, bead-blasted, rhodium-plated and bearing black Arabic numerals
Flat seconds inner bezel ring, in bead-blasted black rhodium-plated nickel silver
Power-reserve indication at 10 o’clock engraved on the regulator plate “0-1” and coloured in grey
Inscription: “CHRONOMÈTRE VAL-DE-TRAVERS SUISSE”

Hands
Dagger-shaped facetted and open-worked minutes hand in 18-carat white gold with blue CVD coating
Steel fixed hour-marker with blue CVD coating
Gilded steel arrow-shaped power-reserve hand
Gilded bronze central sweep-seconds hand

Indications
Hours on a disc at 2 o’clock, pointer-type date display at 12 o’clock, central sweep-seconds hand and power-reserve indicator at 10 o’clock

Movement
Mechanical hand-wound Calibre FB-T.FC.R
Diameter:  35.50 mm
Thickness:  9-89 mm
Lines: 15 ¾
Jewels:  49
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: approx. 53 hours env.

Chain-and-fusee tourbillon (constant force)
– Suspended fusee – winding differential system (PATENT)
–  Suspended barrel – Maltese Cross stopwork system (PATENT)
– Suspended power-reserve – mobile cone system (PATENT)
– Tourbillon with direct-drive seconds hand (PATENT)
Regulator-type display
Power-reserve indicator with levers and spiral spring
Variable-inertia balance comprising four rhodium-plated nickel silver inertia weights
Balance spring with hand-crafted Phillips terminal curve (stainless steel)
Swiss lever escapement
Cut-out and engraved nickel silver half-bridges, secured to polished stylised titanium bridges
Hand finishing meeting the highest watchmaking standards

Components:  1,158 (including the chain)
Chain:  790 components
Chain length: 285 mm
Half-bridges: 18
Pillars: 6

Tourbillon
Rotation:  1 /minute
Components: 67
Tourbillon carriage: Ø 16.55 mm (titanium)
Tourbillon carriage affixed to: 3 polished titanium pillars
Tourbillon carriage poised by: 2 inertia-blocks in 18-carat gold
Balance wheel: Ø 12 mm (copper-beryllium)

Certification
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC

Strap
Rolled-edge hand-sewn alligator leather strap made from a single piece of leather (115 x 75 mm with a 20 mm buckle)
Various sizes available on request
Length-adjustable double-blade titanium folding clasp
Pin buckle available on request

 

FERDINAND BERTHOUD

Established by Chopard Group of Switzerland, the Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD watch manufacture pays tributes to the legendary watch maker FERDINAND BERTHOUD.

With this new venture, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the co-president of Chopard and President of Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD, revives the legacy of one of the great figures in Switzerland traditional watch making industry.

As the first step of its renewal, in 2015, Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD presented FB1, an exclusive timepiece inspired by the remarkable marine clocks developed by FERDINAND BERTHOUD.

Born in 1727 in the Val-de-Travers – Switzerland, Ferdinand Berthoud was granted the title of “Master Clockmaker” in Paris in 1753.

This exceptional horologist and tireless researcher who served as “Horloger-Mécanicien du Roi et de la Marine” – Horologist-Mechanic by appointment to the King and the Navy – left behind him an exceptionally broad body of work, notably in the field of marine chronometers. It was in tribute to this master horologist that Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, wished to orchestrate the revival of the illustrious name of Ferdinand Berthoud.

Ferdinand Berthoud

Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD will offer only exceptional timepieces issued in extremely limited production numbers. Chopard Group is thereby laying a new milestone in its watchmaking development and further reinforcing its presence in Fleurier, in the Val-de-Travers region of Canton Neuchâtel – Switzerland, where the Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD Company is established.

Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD was born of the initiative of Chopard’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, who acquired the name in 2006. This move was driven by a determination to give a new lease on life to an impressive heritage, by launching a creative new brand of exceptional timepieces crafted in highly limited series in tribute to the master horologist and thus restoring his name to its former glory.

Passionately interested in culture and history, Karl-Friedrich has long admired the exemplary creations and the career of Ferdinand Berthoud, born in 1727 in Plancemont-sur-Couvet, 5 kilometres from Fleurier. He has assembled an exceptional collection of timepieces exhibited at the L.U.CEUM in Fleurier.

His fascination has steadily grown in discovering the fabulous legacy of this brilliant artisan – whether in the domain of marine chronometers, pocket watches or regulators. Officially announced at the end of 2013, the development of Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD has taken root in Fleurier and is now being materialised in an extremely sophisticated creation.

Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the co-president of Chopard and President of Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD

With the birth of Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD, the Chopard Group is laying a new milestone in the development of its watchmaking division and further consolidating its presence in Fleurier in the Val-de-Travers, a region of Canton Neuchâtel steeped in an age-old horological tradition.

It is doubtless no mere historical coincidence that Ferdinand Berthoud was born a few kilometres from Fleurier, which is already home to Chopard Manufacture, which handles the production of L.U.C Haute Horlogerie movements; Fleurier Ebauches SA, which produces Chopard’s mechanical movements; as well as the L.U.CEUM, which harbours some of the most admirable examples of the watchmaking art.

Long months of intense creative reflection, guided by stringent development requirements on both technical and aesthetic levels, have given rise to the first contemporary Ferdinand Berthoud timepiece which is intended as a natural continuation of the work accomplished by three generations of master-watchmakers: Ferdinand, Pierre-Louis and Charles-Auguste Berthoud.

Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD evokes an illustrious name, that of a watchmaker, and an exceptional researcher who left an indelible imprint on watchmaking history through his inventiveness and his remarkable mechanical talents. It is also a story punctuated by inventions, technical challenges and constant progress in the realm of time measurement.

At the forefront of these major advancements are the marine chronometers introduced by Ferdinand Berthoud. They made it possible to calculate longitude with extreme precision and thereby contributed to the conquest of the oceans in the 18th century.

It is from this substantial legacy that Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD derives the DNA of its new timepieces. These contemporary yet timeless watches bear the signature characteristics embodying the excellence and the renown of the Berthoud dynasty.

While the Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD is part of the Chopard Group, the development, design and production of Ferdinand Berthoud watches stem from a separate, autonomous and dedicated creative process.

To guarantee this exclusivity and this independence, specific watchmakers have been hired in order to develop the original calibres and exteriors of these incomparable timepieces. For the time being, the highly qualified watchmakers devoted to assembling the first watches by Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD ply their trade in dedicated premises provided for them in Fleurier.

While fully autonomous in its horological development, Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD will naturally benefit from the stature and expertise of the group. This inherently exclusive firm will create exceptional timepieces in limited series, distributed through an equally exclusive, international and independent network of points of sales specialised in high-end, complex watch products.

Biography – Ferdinand Berthoud (1727-1807)

Obliged to work as a watchmaker’s companion for the masters of the Parisian guild, due to not having served his apprenticeship with one of them, the young Berthoud managed to overcome this hurdle by drawing attention to “his considerable application in perfecting the art of watchmaking”. He seized the opportunity of publishing his research at the French Royal Academy of Science by submitting the description of a new construction in a sealed envelope.

The academics’ approval on April 26th 1752 of a long case equation clock, considered highly ingenious, marked the beginning of his career as a researcher and at the same time, enabled him to stake his claim of official integration within the watchmaker community. On December 4th 1753, the King ordered that he be named a maître (master), a title that allowed him to open a workshop in the Rue de Harlay, near Place Dauphine.

In 1754, the master once again submitted his inventions to the Academy. One was his first marine clock project. The others, examined and approved by the academics, were also equation systems: “a longcase equation clock with concentric seconds marking the months and days of the month, leap years, and which runs for 13 months without being wound”; as well as a watch with seconds and equation, marking the months and days.

Even prior to being named a master, Ferdinand Berthoud indicated the direction he wanted his career to take – namely to devote himself to research and transmit his know-how through publications and teaching. This double vocation enabled him to rapidly make a name for himself in the scientific world of his time.

Several articles in the Encyclopaedia published by Diderot were entrusted to him, and most particularly the article entitled “Equation”. In 1759, he published a successful treatise on popularization entitled, L’Art de conduire et de régler les pendules et les montres. A l’usage de ceux qui n’ont aucune connaissance d’horlogerie (the art of operating and adjusting clocks and watches. To be used by those with no knowledge of watchmaking).

In 1763, his extensive treatise – L’Essai sur l’horlogerie ; dans lequel on traite de cet Art relativement à l’usage civil, à l’Astronomie et à la Navigation (an Essay on Horology; in which we deal with this Art in relation to its civil application, to Astronomy and to Navigation) was also well received.

1763 marked a turning point in Berthoud’s career, which was now bound up with the development of maritime navigation. The Academy of Science once again both witnessed and supported the horologist’s request for the opening of two reports, respectively deposited in 1760 and 1761. These described the N°1 maritime clock.

Convinced by his skill, the academics obtained permission from the Minister of the Navy to send him to London to examine the Harrison marine clock. This opportunity demonstrated his worth and resulted in his nomination as a foreign member of the Royal Society on February 16th 1764.

On August 29th of that year, Ferdinand Berthoud once again made a submission concerning the “construction of a marine watch…” This was the last time, as Berthoud was now sure of where he was going with his research and of having the option of seeking official support.

His projects were the subject of detailed requests punctuating his activities and in this context, he suggested the construction of two marine watches on May 7th 1766.

Marine Clock N° 6

After successful experimentation with the N° 6 and 8 which are housed at the Musée des arts et métiers (Museum of Arts and Crafts), Ferdinand Berthoud was awarded a certificate entitled Brevet d’horloger Méchanicien du Roi et de la Marine ayant l’inspection de la construction des Horloges marines (Watchmaker and Mechanic to the King and Navy with construction inspection of marine clocks) created especially for him on April 1st 1770.

Marine Clock N° 6

From this time onwards, he abandoned the management of his workshop-boutique in favour of his research. A tenacious investigator, a skilled and daring builder, and an inventor anxious to share his knowledge, Ferdinand Berthoud not only took part in improving horology; he also fostered the use of precision clocks in the sciences of his time, thus contributing to their progress.

The title, privileges, and forms of recognition which punctuated his career, between the reign of Louis XV and the First Empire, as well as the tributes and studies which marked his critical fortune until the present day, reflect the importance of his position in the long quest for precision, from Huyghens’ discoveries right up to Guillaume.

Chronology

  • 1727: Ferdinand Berthoud is born on March 18 to a distinguished family of clockmakers at Plancemont in the Val-de-Travers, now in Switzerland’s canton of Neuchâtel.
  • 1745: At the age of 18, Ferdinand Berthoud settles in Paris to study clockmaking.
  • 1753: A decree of King Louis XV’s council awards the 26-year-old Ferdinand Berthoud the title of Master Clockmaker.
  • 1755: Ferdinand Berthoud writes a number of reference papers for the Encyclopédie méthodique edited by Diderot (1713-1784) and Alembert (1717-1783).
  • 1763: Publication of a two-volume horological treatise, Essai sur l’horlogerie…
  • 1764: Ferdinand Berthoud is elected to the Royal Society in London as an “associate overseas member” thanks to his masterpieces and his publications about watchmaking
  • 1768: The marine chronometers N° 6 and N° 8 were proved to be successful onboard the corvette “L’Isis” during a 18-month journey from Rochefort to Santo Domingo. The marine chronometer N°8 alloed to determine the real position on the map of the boat and calculate the longitude within half a degree thanks to astronomical observations.
  • 1770: After successful sea trials of the marine chronometers N° 6 and N° 8, Ferdinand Berthoud is commissioned as Horologist-mechanic to the King and the Navy, and receives a royal command for 20 marine chronometers for the French admiralty’s numerous charting expeditions and marine surveys of the late 18th century.
  • 1802: Ferdinand Berthoud publishes a major work: Histoire de la mesure du temps par les horloges, a history of time measurement by clocks that demonstrates his immense knowledge of horological mechanics.
  • 1804: On July 17, Napoleon I makes Ferdinand Berthoud a Knight of the Legion of Honour as a member of the Institut de France.
  • 1807: Ferdinand Berthoud publishes his last work, Supplément au Traité des montres à Longitudes. On June 20, 1807, Ferdinand Berthoud dies at the age of 80 in Groslay (France). His nephews, Pierre-Louis Berthoud (1754-1813) and Charles-Auguste Berthoud (1798-1876) successfully carry on the work of their uncle to earn renown as chronometer-makers.
  • 2006: Chopard’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele acquires the brand name Ferdinand Berthoud.
  • 2015: Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD unveils its first timepiece: FB1.

Contact details
Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD SA
Rue des Moulins 20
Case postale 128
2114 Fleurier, Val-de-Travers (NE)
Switzerland
www.ferdinandberthoud.ch

FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3 Limited Edition

Two years after launching its sensational horology creation FB 1, the Swiss luxury watch brand Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD presents this year a new and highly exclusive timepiece FB 1.3, that follows the same footsteps of the FB 1.1 chronometer that won the “Aiguille d’or” Grand Prix award at the 2016 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, and the FB 1.2.

FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3 Limited Edition

This new model is distinguished by its unique shapes and complex platinum case that frames a partially open-worked nickel silver dial featuring an understated and distinctive play on colours. Its movement is endowed with complications inspired by the 18th century Ferdinand Berthoud chronometers that served as reliable scientific instruments. Nonetheless, even terms such as “suspended tourbillon”, “constant force” or “fusee-and-chain transmission” cannot begin to express the true sophistication of this exceptional calibre.

FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3 Limited Edition

The Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 was the result of an innovative horological approach. Its design, its movement, its finishing and indeed everything to do with this tourbillon and constant force chronometer are highly specific and correspond to an uncompromising pursuit of excellence.

Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD stemmed from a very special mind-set that breathed life into this project, powered by personal passion. That of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President of Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD, who since 2006 has been patiently putting together a major collection of objects relating to time measurement in the L.U.CEUM: the in-house museum based in Fleurier and showcasing a number of remarkable works by Ferdinand Berthoud.

FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3 Limited Edition

Fired by respect for Ferdinand Berthoud, a native of the Val-de-Travers who went on to become a horologist, inventor and talented author, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele set up a team dedicated to offering connoisseurs the kind of chronometers that Ferdinand Berthoud might have created if he were still alive today.

To support this approach, a specific development process was put in place by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and his team. FERDINAND BERTHOUD chronometers comprise a wealth of aesthetic and technical details that call for authentic expertise and considerable know-how. The Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD 1.3 is thus naturally produced in a 50-piece limited numbered series.

FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3 Limited Edition

The Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3 picks up all the aesthetic and technical features of the previous versions that were respectively crafted in 18-carat white gold (FB 1.1) and 18-carat rose gold (FB 1.2).

The 44 mm-diameter case of this watch sits naturally and comfortably on the wrist. Composed of a 950 platinum cylinder housing the movement, it comprises two octagonal-shaped side pieces in polished platinum that contribute to its distinctive shape. The latter is inspired by an overhead view of a marine chronometer fitted inside its case: its round shape is cut through by the arms of the gimbal suspension that holds it in place when the ship is at sea.

The grey ceramic lugs are secured to the case middle by two stylised titanium bolts marking the starting points of the hand-stitched double-sided alligator leather strap. The same ceramic is also present on the medallion adorning the knurled platinum crown. Finally, four ‘portholes’ cut out from the sides of the case provide a chance to admire the fusee-and-chain mechanism in action, as well as to allow light to flood through the movement.

FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3 Limited Edition

Another opening in the satin-brushed nickel silver dial reveals the wheel driving the tourbillon carriage and the seconds wheel to which the central seconds hand is fitted, an unusual feature on a tourbillon. This slim black hand sweeps around a translucent sapphire railtrack circle around the rim of the dial. The hours and minutes are offset at 12 o’clock on a black lacquered subdial bearing white Arabic numerals and white gold cut-out hands.

The same black shade also graces the chamfered edges of the dial openings. The nature and origin of the Chronomètre FB 1.3 are also indicated on this large dial that is engraved with the inscription “Chronomètre Val-de-Travers Suisse”. Far more than merely representing a signature or an appellation of origin, it proudly proclaims the model’s identity.

The way the FB-T.FC calibre is built is a truly unique phenomenon on the contemporary watchmaking scene. This hand-wound movement features 15 bridges and three half-bridges in nickel silver, framed by polished titanium pillars surrounding the mechanical organs.

This construction is typical of 18th century marine chronometers, and enables the portholes of the Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3 to reveal the interior of the watch. Equally high aesthetic standards apply to the design of all components, and especially to the symmetrical visual balance characterising the various sets of components.

FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3 Limited Edition watch movement

This movement is one of the rare examples to feature a fusee-and-chain transmission, which is the oldest historical solution developed to ensure constant force for the escapement. This system acts like an automatic gear box, with the torque delivered by the barrel varying according to the level of winding. When the movement is fully wound (53 hours of power reserve), the chain is entirely coiled around the small end of the fusee and the barrel spring is at maximum power.

This force dwindles in the course of time, as the chain coils around the drum, moving from the small to the large end of the spindle-shaped fusee. The variation in the diameter of the fusee compensates for the reduction of the mainspring torque. The escapement thus receives constant energy, thereby equalling out the amplitude of the balance wheel and thereby enhancing the movement’s timekeeping precision.

FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3 Limited Edition watch movement

The distinctive nature of the FB-T.FC lies in the fact that its barrel and fuse are reversed, upside down, and above all suspended – meaning they are held on one side only. This helps save a few precious millimetres and contributes to the overall slimness of the calibre. At just 7.96 mm thick, the movement powering the Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3. is the thinnest in its category and a patent has been duly filed for this construction.

When the mainspring is associated with a fusee, the barrel drum turns in one direction while the spring is unwinding, and in the other during winding, thus serving to coil the chain.

During the winding of this type of mechanism, the movement generally stops running. To counteract this effect, the FB-T.FC is equipped with a distinctively designed differential gear, enabling the balance-wheel to continue oscillating even during winding and thus preserving the movement’s precision timekeeping properties. Another patent has also been filed for this device.

The winding mechanism fitted with a pinion featuring cone-shaped toothing, together with a large-diameter knurled crown, enables smooth winding of the movement – a gentle motion that naturally enhances the quality of the rapport established between the watch and its owner, which plays an essential role in the case of a hand-wound watch.

As typically found on fusee-and-chain mechanisms, the barrel of Calibre FB-T.FC is equipped with a “Maltese Cross” stopwork device. The latter serves to limit the number of winding turns of the mainspring to around six, and to use only the most stable portion of this spring – thereby breaking free of its far ends. This device also servers as a buffer when the barrel is fully wound. At that point, the mainspring torque exerts a 3 kg force, which is considerable for components measuring just a few millimetres.

To perfect the security of the movement, the engineers at Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD have endowed the crown with a dynamometric function serving to avoid any damage to the movement that might be caused by excessive winding.

FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3 Limited Edition watch

The highly sophisticated power-reserve indication device warranted a patent in its own right. A truncated cone moves up and down along an arbor connected to the barrel. This suspended cone is topped by a feeler spindle in the form of a mobile arm tipped with a watch jewel. Its position on the cone reflects the state of wind. This feeler spindle is in turn connected to the hand on the power-reserve display, which features graduations engraved on the baseplate and visible through a dial opening. This daring mechanism provides a highly accurate indication of the movement’s power reserve.

Teamed with the seconds wheel and pinion, the tourbillon of Calibre FB-T.FC comprises 67 components assembled within a titanium carriage measuring 16.55 mm in diameter, and fixed to an arrow-shaped steel arch whose tip points towards the space between the barrel and the fusee. A large variable-inertia balance-wheel is regulated and balanced by four gilded nickel silver inertia-blocks.

It is coupled with a self-compensating regulating balance-spring in a stainless alloy, featuring a Phillips outer terminal curve (overcoil) manually shaped by the expert hands of the women serving as balance-spring fitters at Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD. To poise the escapement’s unbalance, two 18-carat gold inertia-blocks ensure the uniformity of the weights of this large-size tourbillon.

This tourbillon contributes to earning Calibre FB-T.FC its chronometer title awarded by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). One particular characteristic makes this tourbillon extremely distinctive: although it performs one rotation per minute, it does not display the seconds. The Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3 is one of the rare tourbillon models to have a central sweep-seconds hand. The latter is extremely long, slim and made of bronze, displaying the seconds with extreme accuracy and in a remarkably stable manner.

Within the traditional approach to watchmaking, construction and mechanical structure are inseparable from the choice of materials and the quality of the finishing. In this respect, the movement of the Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3 is in a league of its own. The bridges of Calibre FB-T.FC are made of non-treated German silver: a copper, zinc and nickel alloy that is particularly brilliant when polished, yet also extremely fragile. Any imperfection is irreparable and the part must be discarded. Nickel silver is also distinguished by its warm grey colour easily recognised by connoisseurs.

The stainless steel arrow-shaped tourbillon bridge is decorated with the utmost care: the upper side is specular polished, the flanks are straight-grained, the angles are polished and the underside is circular-grained and smooth polished. All levels of the tourbillon carriage, with its titanium components, are entirely chamfered.

Some surfaces are polished, others circular satin-brushed, sandblasted or smooth polished. The lever bridge is entirely chamfered, while its visible side features a specular-polished finish and its invisible side is straight-grained. Further up in the gear train, the power-reserve cone is mirror-polished across its inner surface, while the upper and undersides are circular satin-brushed.

Two small steel plates are screwed to the cover of the barrel drum: one bears the watch’s limited-edition number, while the other is left blank to be engraved with the initials of its future owner. The 790-part chain measuring 285 mm long is also entirely hand-finished. The sides and studs are satin-brushed and the flat surfaces are polished.

FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3 Limited Edition watch movement

Whatever their position and their function, these component finishing operations are entirely done by hand using traditional tools, in the workshops of Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD. The quality control of this finishing is performed at a far higher degree of magnification than usual, under a 6x loupe.

Under such intense scrutiny, no detail, however tiny, goes unnoticed. No error, imperfection or insufficiency is tolerated. Such is the horological excellence cultivated by Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD as part of its unfailing commitment to precision for explorers.

Technical details

Model:  FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3
REF. FB 1.3, Platinum and ceramic 50-piece limited and numbered edition

Case
Bimetallic in platinum (PT 950) with anthracite grey ceramic lug elements
Total diameter: 44 mm
Thickness:  13 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 9 mm
Numbered edition: 01/50 to 50/50
Dynamometric crown (uncoupling device) in platinum (PT 950) with anthracite grey ceramic medallion
Octagonal case fitted with four watertight portholes in glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Mounting bolts in titanium
Screw-in case-back with glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Domed, arched and glare-proofed sapphire crystal

Dial
Vertical satin-finish dial made of solid nickel silver material
Cut-out centre and power reserve chamfered by hand and black rhodium-plated
Off-set hours and minutes in matte black-lacquered subdial, white Arabic numerals
Seconds scale in matte translucent sapphire surrounding the dial
Power-reserve scale engraved on the main plate “0_1/4_1/2_3/4_1”
Degree of autonomy indicated by an arrow pointing to the French words “HAUT” (high) and “BAS” (low)
Inscription: “CHRONOMÈTRE VAL-DE-TRAVERS SUISSE”

Hands
18-carat white gold dagger-shaped hours and minutes hands, open-worked and facetted
18-carat gold black nickel-plated dagger-shaped power-reserve hand with curved triangular tip
Bronze black nickel-plated central sweep-seconds hand

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve

Movement
Mechanical hand-wound Calibre FB-T.FC
Diameter: 35.50 mm
Thickness: 7.96 mm
Lines: 15 ¾
Jewels: 46
Frequency: 21,600 v/h (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 53 hours

• Tourbillon with fusee-and-chain transmission (constant-force device)
– Suspended fusee with differential based winding device (PATENT PENDING)
– Suspended barrel with Maltese cross stop work device (PATENT PENDING)
– Suspended power reserve device with mobile cone (PATENT PENDING)
– Suspended tourbillon with direct-drive seconds (PATENT PENDING)

• Variable-inertia balance-wheel integrating 2 balance weights sets (gold-plated nickel-silver material)
• Balance spring with hand-shaped Philips terminal curve (steel material)
• Swiss lever escapement
• Nickel-silver half-bridges supported by stylised titanium pillars
• Hand-finished to the highest standards

Parts: 1120 (incl. the chain)
Chain: 790 elements
Chain length: 285 mm
Half-bridges: 18
Pillars: 6

Tourbillon
Rotation: 1 /minute
Parts: 67
Carriage:  Ø 16.55 mm (titanium material)
Tourbillon carriage fixed by: Three polished titanium pillars.
Tourbillon carriage poised by: Two 18-carat gold studs
Balance wheel: Ø 12 mm (copper-beryllium)

Certification
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC

Strap
One-piece hand-sewn rolled-edge black alligator leather strap (115 x 75 mm, buckle 20 mm) (Different sizes available on request)
Double-blade adjustable-length safety folding clasp in platinum (PT 950) (Pin buckle available on request)

FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1

The unveiling of Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 timepiece is an important milestone in the traditional watch making industry as this masterpiece revives the legacy of one of the most acclaimed horology maestros: Ferdinand Berthoud (1727-1807).

Stemming from a reflective process undertaken in tribute to the horological genius of Ferdinand Berthoud, this micro mechanical marvel from Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD embodies a modern vision of the creations that the master might create if he were still living today.

FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1

Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President of the Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD, wanted this exceptional new timepiece to represent a continuation of the work of the master chronometer-maker. This was to be done by adopting a contemporary approach guided by the same innovative spirit, while drawing inspiration from the marine chronometers created by the master watchmaker.

Housed in an imposing octagonal case with watertight portholes, the new Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 is equipped with an original mechanical hand-wound movement comprising more than 1,120 components.

FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1

Entirely independently conceived, developed and produced by the Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD in Fleurier, the FB-T.FC calibre features a tourbillon with central seconds, a distinctive pillar-type architecture, an innovative suspended fusée – chain regulating system and a mobile cone indicating power-reserve. Patents have been filed for each of these features.

FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 FB-T.FC calibre

By giving a new lease on life to the name and the horological feats of Ferdinand Berthoud providing them with a contemporary expression, Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD ushers the talent of this accomplished chronometer-maker into a new creative era that exalts the finest aspects of the watchmaking art.

This dynasty of master-watchmakers dates back to 1753 when Ferdinand Berthoud officially earned the title of Master Clockmaker in Paris. He established himself as one of the most talented watchmaker-engineers of his era, making an indelible mark on history with his remarkably accurate marine chronometers.

Capable of measuring longitudes to within less than half a degree, the chronometers developed by Ferdinand Berthoud would enable France to vie with England for maritime supremacy – and earn their creator the prestigious title of “Horloger Mécanicien du Roi et de la Marine” Horologist-Mechanic by appointment to the King and the Navy– under the reign of Louis XV.

Marine clock M.M. n° 6, dated 1777 and kept in the Chopard L.U.CEUM museum in Fleurier, represents one of the main sources of inspiration that guided the rebirth of Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD. This marine chronometer is driven by a movement equipped with a constant-force module, an astonishing fusée – chain transmission system as well as a superb pillar-based construction.

FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1

The new Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 reprises these prestigious characteristic features, as well as the profound attachment to reliability and chronometric precision that are the fundamental qualities of the new watches from Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD.

FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1

The new FERDINAND BERTHOUD Tourbillon Fusée – Chain chronometer is powered by an exclusive hand-wound movement entirely designed, developed and produced by Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD. Calibre FB-T.FC is distinguished by a striking pillar-type architecture typical of the marine chronometers created by the master-watchmaker in the 18th century.

Equipped with a remarkable low-frequency (3 Hz) tourbillon with central seconds, this exceptional movement also features a constant-force regulating device with suspended fusée – chain transmission, a differential-based winding system, as well as a highly specific power-reserve mechanism called a “suspended mobile cone”.

FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1

The result of almost three years’ research and development, culminating in cutting-edge reliability tests, Calibre FB-T.FC delivers exceptional precision and rating regularity duly certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), along with 53 hours’ autonomy and optimal readability of its hours, minutes, seconds and power-reserve functions.

Inspired by Berthoud regulator-type clocks, the particularly slim, long spokes of the gear wheels are decorated with meticulous care. Patiently circular satin-finished, bevelled and countersunk, they subtly reflect the light onto the pinions. Patents have been filed for several of the unprecedented mechanisms composing this new calibre.

The unique architecture of the FB-T.FC calibre highlights a fascinating play on the symmetry between the barrel, the fusée and the tourbillon, visible through the generously open back of the octagonal case. Fitted on gear wheels with tapering spokes and supported by stylised pillars, the barrel, fusée and tourbillon appear to be suspended in mid-air, thereby creating an airy, light feel.

The polished titanium pillars securing the bridges to the mainplate generate a space that draws light to the heart of the movement and reinforces the pure nature of this exceptional construction comprising more than 1,120 components within a 35.50 mm diameter and a modest 8 mm thickness. The entirely hand-decorated half-bridges are satin-finished and bevelled with straight-grained flanks, while the jewels are set in finely polished and chamfered chatons.

FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1

The characteristic fusée – chain systems of 18th century timepieces served to compensate for the variations in torque of the mainspring according to its degree of winding. The original fusée – chain mechanism of Calibre FB-T.FC occupies an exceptionally small space at the heart of the movement thanks to its “suspended” construction by which it is secured exclusively to the mainplate.

The barrel and the fusée are linked by a 28 cm-long chain composed of 474 steel links and more than 316 pins measuring barely 0.30 mm in diameter and all hand-assembled. When the mainspring is associated with a fusée (spindle-like element), the barrel drum turns in one direction when the spring winds down and in the opposite direction when it is wound up. The rotation of the drum causes the chain to coil around the fusée. To ensure the movement does not stop during winding, the fusée mechanism of Calibre FB-T.FC is equipped with an unusual differential gear.

The barrel itself is linked to the Maltese cross stopwork device that serves to limit the number of winding turns of the mainspring and to ensure pre-determined, constant-force transmission during the letting down process.

The power-reserve device of calibre FB-T.FC is also extremely specific and innovative, inspired by a mechanism developed by the famous British watchmaker Georges Daniels – and a nod to the ties with England cultivated by Ferdinand Berthoud. This mechanism directly linked to the barrel by a driving wheel, uses the winding and letting down motion of the mainspring to make a truncated cone move up and down along an arbor  secured to the mainplate. A mobile arm tipped with a roller jewel serves as a feeler-spindle in measuring the motion of the cone and transmitting the movement’s power-reserve level to a dedicated hand.

Fitted with a tourbillon regulating organ featuring an innovative direct-drive seconds hand, the FB-T.FC calibre is equipped with a variable-inertia balance oscillating at a low frequency of 3 Hz, while the tourbillon carriage performs one rotation per minute. The balance made of copper beryllium (CuBe), a particularly resistant copper-based alloy, is equipped with a self-compensating balance spring made of rust-free alloy whose terminal curve is delicately shaped by hand – noblesse oblige.

Two sets of inertia-blocks on the balance rim enable micrometric adjustment of its amplitude. The 67-part titanium tourbillon carriage is held in place by a bridge with a single arch and poised by means of two 18-carat gold studs. Identical and coaxial with the wheel driving the tourbillon carriage, the central seconds wheel does exactly what its name implies by enabling a central display of the seconds. A patent request has also been filed for this unusual construction.

FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1

The octagonal-shaped case of the Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 features a specific architecture inspired by the marine chronometers developed by the Swiss master-watchmaker, and in particular their gimbal suspension system typical of ship’s chronometers. The movement is housed in a water-resistant container, while the case middle takes on an octagonal shape due to the addition of screwed-on gold elements endowing it with a powerfully contemporary appearance.

FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1

These octagonal add-on sides open onto four lateral sapphire portholes providing a chance to admire the subtle intricacies of the movement. The 44 mm-diameter case is water-resistant to 30 metres and fitted with a glareproofed screw-down sapphire back. It provides a captivating view of the tourbillon and reveals the complex fusée – chain mechanism.

FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1

This window onto the heart of the movement allows light to flood through the case, illuminating the mechanisms visible through the four water-resistant lateral portholes. The pleasingly round bezel is topped by a domed, arched and glare-proofed sapphire crystal ensuring optimal legibility of the dial indications.

Secured by bolts whose design is directly inspired by those used by Ferdinand Berthoud for its marine clocks, the inter-horn space is clothed with high-tech materials – grade 5 titanium for the white gold version and black ceramic for the rose gold version – accentuating the resolutely modern nature of this new watch.

The screw-lock crown at 3 o’clock is elegantly set with a rose gold medallion on the white gold case and a black ceramic version on the one in rose gold, while its generous diameter and refined knurling ensure an optimal grip enabling easy adjustments of the movement. With its harmoniously proportioned and original case graced with extremely sophisticated finishes, the new timepiece from Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD displays a unique character distinguished by pure, sparing elegance.

FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1

Focusing firmly on time read-off and the display of its precise measurement, the dial of the Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 is as understated in its appearance as it is technically complex to produce. The off-set hours and minutes tick by on a white-lacquered subdial at 12 o’clock. Standing out against a black satin-brushed or ruthenium background depending on the case material, the seconds scale appears on a matt translucent sapphire surrounding the dial.

In the centre, an opening with carefully chamfered contours reveals the seconds wheel-and-pinion and the driving wheel of the tourbillon carriage – each turning in the opposite direction to the other. Meanwhile, the movement power reserve is indicated on a scale directly engraved on the mainplate and shown at the heart of a 9 o’clock counter.

Its degree of autonomy is signalled by an arrow pointing to the words “Haut” or “Bas” – the French terms for high and low written in the native language of Ferdinand Berthoud. Alongside the confirmation of “Chronometer” certification appearing at the bottom of the dial, the inscriptions “Val-de-Travers” and “Switzerland” underscore the hand-crafted nature of this precious timepiece entirely developed in the birthplace of the master-watchmaker.

Meticulous care has been lavished on the execution of the hands, inspired by the characteristic shapes of creations bearing the Ferdinand Berthoud signature. Crafted in 18-carat gold, they adopt complex and original designs calling for particularly sophisticated production processes. The dagger-shaped hours and minutes hands are cut-out and facetted, while the extremely long and slim central sweep-seconds hand is made of bronze and fitted with a round counterweight typical of Ferdinand Berthoud regulators. The power-reserve indicator features a curved triangular tip.

Designed to match the shade of the dial, these pointers are all are delicately blued or gilded according to the version and guarantee perfect readability of the functions while enhancing the clarity of their precision.

The understated lines and contemporary refinement of the Ferdinand Berthoud chronometer extend right the way through to the hand-sewn rolled-edge alligator leather strap. This supple yet sturdy wristband composed of one skin sewn with a linen thread is secured by an 18-carat gold double-blade safety folding clasp fitted with a length-adjustment device typical of the new timepieces from the House.

Technical details

Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1
Ref FB 1.1 : In 18-carat white gold and titanium
50-piece limited and numbered edition

Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 watch in 18-carat white gold and titanium

Case
Bimetallic in 18-carat white gold with titanium inter-horn space
Total diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 13 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown in 18-carat white gold with 18-carat rose gold medallion
Octagonal case fitted with four watertight portholes in glareproofed sapphire crystal
Screw-in case-back with glareproofed sapphire crystal
Domed, arched and glareproofed sapphire crystal

Movement
Mechanical hand-wound FB-T.FC
Total diameter: 35.50 mm
Thickness: 8 mm
Number of jewels: 46
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 53 hours
Suspended fusée – chain constant-force transmission regulation
Suspended mobile power-reserve cone – 3 Hz low-frequency tourbillon with central seconds
Balance-spring with hand-shaped Philips terminal curve
Nickel silver half-bridges supported by stylised titanium pillars
Chronometer-certified (COSC)

Dial and hands
Vertical satin-finish ruthenium dial with cut-out centre
18-carat blued gold hours, minutes and power-reserve hands
Blued bronze seconds hand

Functions and displays
Display of the hours, minutes at 12 o’clock on a white lacquered dial
Power-reserve display in an openworked subdial at 9 o’clock
Tourbillon at 6 o’clock

Strap and buckle
Hand-sewn rolled-edge alligator leather strap
18-carat white gold double-blade length-adjustable safety folding clasp

Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1
Ref FB 1.2: In 18-carat rose gold and black ceramic
50-piece limited and numbered edition

Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 watch in 18-carat rose gold and black ceramic

Case
Bimetallic in 18-carat rose gold with black ceramic inter-horn space
Total diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 13 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown in 18-carat rose gold with black ceramic medallion
Octagonal case fitted with four watertight portholes in glareproofed sapphire crystal
Screw-in case-back with glareproofed sapphire crystal
Domed, arched and glareproofed sapphire crystal

Movement
Mechanical hand-wound FB-T.FC
Total diameter: 35.50 mm
Thickness: 8 mm
Number of jewels: 46
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 53 hours
Suspended fusée – chain constant-force transmission regulation
Suspended mobile power-reserve cone – 3 Hz low-frequency tourbillon with central seconds
Balance-spring with hand-shaped Philips terminal curve
Nickel silver half-bridges supported by stylised titanium pillars
Chronometer-certified (COSC)

Dial and hands
Vertical satin-finish black dial with cut-out centre
18-carat blued gold hours, minutes and power-reserve hands
Blued bronze seconds hand

Functions and displays
Display of the hours, minutes at 12 o’clock on a white lacquered dial
Seconds display at 6 o’clock
Power-reserve display in an openworked subdial at 9 o’clock
Tourbillon at 6 o’clock

Strap and buckle
Hand-sewn rolled-edge alligator leather strap
18-carat white gold double-blade length-adjustable safety folding clasp