Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Minute Repeater

Swiss luxury watch Maison Patek Philippe expands its Aquanaut collection with one of its most emblematic Grand Complications: the minute repeater.

Dedicated to women, the Aquanaut Luce Minute Repeater is presented in two Haute Joaillerie versions set with multicolored baguette-cut sapphires and baguette-cut diamonds showcasing the “invisible setting”.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Collection

Launched in 1997, the Aquanaut took inspiration from the famous Nautilus watch. Its young, original and dynamic design, emphasized by a dial and coordinated strap in a composite material, quickly established it as a cult watch for aficionados of a casual but refined lifestyle.

The basic model displaying hours, minutes, seconds and date, with a self-winding mechanical movement, is available today in steel and in rose gold (Reference 5167) as well as a Jumbo-size version in white gold (Reference 5168). Over the years, the men’s Aquanaut has also come equipped with complications.

Since 2011, Patek Philippe has offered a self-winding model endowed with its exclusive Travel Time dual time-zone mechanism, with a date display synchronized with local time (Reference 5164). In 2018, the collection saw the launch of a self-winding flyback chronograph (Reference 5968).

Aquanaut Luce

In 2004, the manufacture brought out an exclusive version of the Aquanaut for women only, lit by a row of diamonds on the bezel –hence the name Aquanaut Luce (“Light” in Italian).

Available today in steel with a quartz movement (Reference 5267) or in rose gold with a self-winding movement (Reference 5268), with dials and matching straps in a range of colors, the Aquanaut Luce also offers two jewelry versions (References 5062/450R-001 and 5072R-001).

In the past two years, the Aquanaut Luce has reclaimed the spotlight by including –like the men’s Aquanaut –a choice of complications. In 2021, it introduced a quartz movement featuring the Travel Time dual time-zone function (5269).

In 2022 it announced a self-winding flyback chronograph adorned with diamonds and multicolored sapphires (Reference 7968). The momentum continued in spring 2023 with a patented Annual Calendar, in a version in rose gold without gems (Reference 5261).

Patek Philippe is now taking another step forward by introducing the Aquanaut collection’s first Grand Complication – and what is more, a minute repeater, recognized as one of the fields in which it excels. Indeed, the manufacture is known to offer the largest choice of minute repeaters available in a regular collection.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Minute Repeater

For the launch of this first Aquanaut minute repeater, Patek Philippe decided on the Aquanaut Luce line for women.

It has taken this approach before. Already, in 2009, the manufacture paid tribute to women’s increasing taste for fine mechanisms by choosing to premiere its caliber CH 29-535 PS manually wound chronograph movement in a Ladies First Chronograph model, clearly destined for feminine wrists. In 1916, the first Patek Philippe chiming wristwatch was a ladies’ five-minute repeater in a platinum case with a chain bracelet.

More recently, from 2011 to 2017, the manufacture’s product range included the Reference 7000 Ladies First Minute Repeater, with a caliber R 27 PS self-winding movement and a round Officer’s-style case.

Following on from the introduction of the Chronograph Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Reference 7968/300R-001 in 2022, Patek Philippe is celebrating the arrival of its new Grand Complication for women by adorning it with a rainbow of multicolored baguette-cut sapphires and baguette-cut diamonds.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie Reference 5260/355R-001

An original alliance between Haute Horlogerie, modern casual chic and Haute Joaillerie, the new Reference 5260/355R-001 in rose gold is adorned with a setting of 52 multicolored baguette-cut sapphires (3.19 ct), 112 baguette-cut diamonds (7.31 ct) and 160 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.72 ct).

The original shape of the octagonal Aquanaut bezel is highlighted by a double row of baguette-cut gemstones set according to the refined “invisible setting” technique.

The outer (subtly beveled) row is composed of diamonds and the inner row of rainbow-colored sapphires selected to form a perfect gradient. Baguette diamonds illuminate the lugs.

The dial plays subtly on the shape of the gems and the way they are set, to form a graceful geometric pattern. Its center is paved with baguette diamonds in an “invisible setting” recalling the (usually embossed) Aquanaut Luce motif.

The hour circle sparkles with brilliant-cut diamonds in a “snow setting”: a sophisticated technique whereby the gemsetter combines stones of different diameters to minimize the gold surface visible between them. Legibility is ensured by 12 multicolored sapphire hour markers echoing the bezel gradient and baton-style hands in rose gold with a white luminescent coating.

The caliber R 27 self-winding movement chimes on demand, on two classic gongs, the hour, quarters and minutes elapsed since the last quarter, by a simple pressure on the slide-piece set into the left flank of the case. The refined architecture, with its off-center 22K gold guilloched mini-rotor and meticulous finishing touches, is visible through a sapphire crystal case back.

This watch comes with three straps in an ultra-resistant composite material decorated with the embossed Aquanaut motif, in matte beige (originally fitted), red and matte white (additional straps). It is secured with a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches, in rose gold set with baguette-cut diamonds.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie Reference 5260/1455R-001

The new Reference 5260/1455R-001 is paved throughout with 130 baguette-cut diamonds (8.66 ct) on the dial and the outer row of the bezel and 779 multicolored baguette-cut sapphires (45.05 ct) forming a rainbow on the inner row of the bezel, the flanks of the case, the minute repeater slide-piece and the rose-gold bracelet.

To adorn this precious timepiece, Patek Philippe chose the sophisticated technique of “invisible setting” for the dial center, the two rows of gems on the bezel, and the caseband, as well as the central links and the flanks of the bracelet.

The dial stands out by its excellent legibility, a quality required of all Patek Philippe watches, even when fully gemset –with 12 multicolored baguette-cut sapphire hour markers, an hour circle composed of baguette-cut diamonds, an hour hand set with three baguette-cut rubies and a minute-hand lit by five baguette-cut blue sapphires. The hole in the cannon carrying the hands is set with a brilliant-cut diamond.

The rose-gold bracelet features a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches.

Because of its limited availability, the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie Reference 5260/1455R-001 will be sold exclusively in the Patek Philippe Salons in Geneva, Paris and London during the introductory phase.

Technical details

Movement

Caliber R 27
Self-winding mechanical movement with minute repeater chiming on two classic gongs
Diameter: 28 mm
Height: 5.05 mm
Number of parts: 342
Number of jewels: 39
Power reserve: Min. 43 hours – max. 48 hours
Winding rotor: Mini-rotor in 22K gold with guilloche decoration, unidirectional winding
Frequency: 21 600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz)
Balance: Gyromax®
Balance spring: Spiromax® (in Silinvar®)
Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Functions
2-position crown:
• Pushed home: manual winding
• Pulled out all the way: setting the time

Displays
With hands: Hours and minutes from the center

Actuation of the minute repeater
Slide piece set into the left flank of the case

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Model: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie Reference 5260/355R-001

Case
18K rose gold, the bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds and multicolored baguette-cut sapphires (“invisible setting”).
Diameter (from 10 to 4 o’clock): 38.8 mm
Width (from 3 to 9 o’clock with crown): 42.5 mm
Length (across lugs): 45.5 mm
Height crystal to crystal: 10.1 mm
Total height: 10.1 mm
Width between lugs: 19.03 mm
Sapphire-crystal back
Not water-resistant; protected against humidity and dust

Dial
Dial plate in 18K gold paved with baguette-cut diamonds (the center, “invisible setting”) and with brilliant-cut diamonds (the hour circle, “snow setting”)
Multicolored baguette-cut sapphire hour markers
Baton-style hour and minute hands in 18K rose gold with white luminescent coating

Strap
Composite material, waterproof and resistant to wear and UV radiation, with embossed Aquanaut pattern
Delivered with three straps: matte beige (originally fitted), red and matte white (additional straps)
Patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp in 18K rose gold secured by four independent catches

Gemsetting/carats
54 baguette-cut diamonds: 3.52 ct (dial center)
160 brilliant-cut diamonds: 0.72 ct (hour circle)
12 multicolored baguette-cut sapphires: 0. 59 ct (hour markers)
40 multicolored baguette-cut sapphires: 2.6 ct (bezel)
40 baguette-cut diamonds: 2.85 ct (bezel)
8 baguette-cut diamonds: 0.58 ct (lugs)
10 baguette-cut diamonds: 0.36 ct (clasp)
Total: 52 multicolored baguette-cut sapphires (3.19 ct), 112 baguette-cut diamonds (7.31 ct) and 160 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.72 ct)

Model: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie Reference 5260/1455R-001

Case
18K rose gold
Bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds and multicolored baguette-cut sapphires (“invisible setting”).
Caseband and slide piece set with multicolored baguette-cut sapphires
Diameter (from 10 to 4 o’clock): 38.8 mm
Width (from 3 to 9 o’clock with crown): 43 mm
Length (across lugs): 47.07 mm
Height, crystal to crystal: 10.7 mm
Total height: 10.70 mm
Width between lugs: 19.03 mm
Sapphire-crystal back
Not water-resistant; protected against humidity and dust

Dial
Dial plate in 18K gold paved with baguette-cut diamonds (the center, “invisible setting”) and with baguette-cut diamonds (the hour circle)
Multicolored baguette-cut sapphire hour markers
Hands in 18K rose gold set with 3 baguette-cut rubies (hour hand) and 5 baguette-cut blue sapphires (minute hand). The hole in the cannon carrying the hands is set with a brilliant-cut diamond

Strap
18K rose gold paved with multicolored baguette-cut sapphires with “invisible setting” (central links and flanks of the outer links)
Patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp in 18K rose gold secured by four independent catches

Gemsetting/carats
90 baguette-cut diamonds: 5.73 ct (dial)
12 multicolored baguette-cut sapphires: 1.08 ct (hour markers)
8 baguette-cut rubies and blue sapphires: 0.06 ct and 1 diamond: 0.01 ct (hands)
40 baguette-cut diamonds: 2.93 ct (bezel)
109 multicolored baguette-cut sapphires: 5.57 ct (bezel, caseband, slide piece)
650 multicolored baguette-cut sapphires: 38.34 ct (bracelet)
Total: 779 multicolored baguette-cut sapphires (45.05 ct), 130 baguette-cut diamonds (8.66 ct) and 1 brilliant-cut diamond (0.01 ct)