Patek Philippe Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time

April 6, 2022 MasterHorologer

In this new timepiece, Patek Philippe combines two of its outstanding patented complications: the Annual Calendar and the Travel Time system for the display of a second time zone.

The date display is synchronized with the respective local time. It simultaneously adjusts the date when the time zone is corrected. The new self-winding caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement is endowed with eight patents.

For this model, the manufacture created a totally new Calatrava case. Its flanks are guilloched with the inimitable hobnail pattern and its dial is framed in the vintage genre inspired by old photo cameras. The same unique design also graces the Ref. 5226G-001 Calatrava, a watch without an additional complication powered by the self-winding caliber 26-330 S C movement.

For Patek Philippe, the technical perfection and aesthetic beauty of a timepiece have always had the same significance. The composition of the movement, case, and dial is always in the focus of the manufacture’s creations.

With its self-winding movement that features two exclusive functions, its round Calatrava case with unique design and decorative features, and an inimitable dial, the new Ref. 5326G-00 Annual Calendar Travel Time delivers a perfect example of an approach that combines all facets of watchmaking artistry with balanced elegance.

In 1996, Patek Philippe merged all of its Genevan ateliers in Plan-les-Ouates under one roof and attracted attention with the launch of its patented Annual Calendar. It is a full calendar with day/date/month that only has to be manually corrected once a year on March 1.

To develop the system that automatically distinguishes between months with 30 and 31 days, the engineers designed an innovative mechanism based largely on wheels and pinions. Since then, the Annual Calendar has become a highlight among the manufacture’s complicated watches.

Today, it comes in a broad selection of ladies’ and men’s wristwatches and is also available in several self-winding flyback chronograph model versions. In the Ref. 5033, Patek Philippe even combined the Annual Calendar with a minute repeater movement.

It was followed in 1997 by a new technical launch, this time in the domain of travel timepieces. The exclusive Travel Time mechanism features a clutch based on a Patek Philippe patent granted in 1959. The ingenious system indicates a second time zone with a second hour hand from the center.

With two pushers in the left-hand case flank, it can be adjusted in one-hour increments in both directions without affecting the precise rate of the movement. Today, the Travel Time function is also available in various watch models, including the self-winding Ref. 5990 Flyback Chronograph or the Ref. 5520 Alarm Travel Time.

For the first time, Patek Philippe has extended its range of useful complications by combining the Annual Calendar and the Travel Time in one watch. The manufacture departed from the ultra-thin self-winding caliber 31-260 that had been launched in 2011 in the Ref. 5235 Annual Calendar Regulator (31-260 REG QA) and was then reworked in 2021 for the Ref. 5236 In-line Perpetual Calendar (31-260 PS QL).

Among the optimized features introduced in 2021, the new caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement retains the 20% gain in barrel torque, the increased winding power of the minirotor thanks to the use of platinum, the frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 semi-oscillations per hour), and a reduction wheel that uncouples automatic winding when the watch is manually wound, which reduces wear. Energy-wise, the performance of the new movement was further improved by a minute wheel suspended between bearing jewels to increase efficiency.

The connection between the Annual Calendar and the Travel Time function involved several technical challenges. The issue wasn’t just to accommodate both mechanisms in the same case. They had to interact in such a way that the displayed date corresponded with local time, hence the time at the location of the wearer of the watch.

And it may need to be adjusted when the time zone is corrected. Thus, in the new caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement, the Annual Calendar is controlled by the Travel Time function and it is the local-time hour wheel that drives the calendar. Connoisseurs will be delighted to note that the principle of the Ref. 5531 World Time Minute Repeater (2017) has been retained. It is the first minute repeater that always sounds local time because the World Time mechanism controls the minute repeater.

For the new Ref. 5326G-001, Patek Philippe redesigned the Travel Time function as well. While the basic principle with two hour hands from the center is retained (solid hand for local time, pierced hand for home time), the two common time zone pushers in the left-hand case flank were replaced with a winding-stem setting mechanism that has three positions. It premiered in 2021 with the Aquanaut Luce Travel Time (Ref. 5269/200R-001).

The user merely needs to pull the crown to the middle position and then turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to adjust the local-time hour hand in one-hour increments in either direction without affecting the precise rate of the movement.

Aesthetic reasons favored the decision for this discrete crown setting system: Patek Philippe wanted a sleek design in the Calatrava style to emphasize the special motif on the case flanks. Setting the time in the home-time zone is done in the classic manner with the crown in the outermost position.

The caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement has a stop-seconds mechanism that allows the time to be set with one-second accuracy. This function is only active while the crown is pulled to the outermost position. This prevents the movement from stopping when selecting a new time zone and preserves the rate accuracy of the movement. When the owner is not traveling, the two hour hands can be superposed with the crown and will then look like one hand.

To make sure the watch always displays the date that matches the respective local time, the engineers also had to modify the Annual Calendar mechanism.

In a conventional annual calendar, the display advance around midnight lasts about 90 minutes, so a date misalignment could occur if the time zone is adjusted in this time span. To assure that users see the correct date longer, Patek Philippe’s engineers shortened the display advance of the Annual Calendar discs by a factor of 5 to about 18 minutes.

Thanks to a cam system with partial toothing connected to the hour wheel, the 24-hour wheel executes its rotation in four phases instead of continuously: 180° rotation in 3 hours (toward midnight), 9 hours of standstill, 180° rotation in 3 hours (toward noon), 9 hours of standstill. This improves the coordination of the calendar switching phase with local time. But the word acceleration also suggests higher energy consumption.

To optimize the efficiency, precision, durability, safety, and operating convenience of the caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement, the engineers developed several innovations that resulted in eight patent applications. For instance, these technical refinements make it possible to reduce the energy consumption and wear of certain components, to switch from the 30th to the 1st and from the 1st to the 30th without desynchronizing the calendar when adjusting the time zone, to prevent shifts and double jumps of the displays or avoid damaging parts of the movement if the moon phase, the month, or the day of the week are corrected in a time frame during which this is explicitly inadvisable.

The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the architecture of the caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement with the elegantly cut and gently curved bridges. It affords a better view of the wheels of the base movement and the exquisite manually executed finissage that reflects the strict directives of the Patek Philippe Seal.

The newly designed white-gold case has a diameter of 41 millimeters. With its slightly chamfered bezel and the polished, inclined lugs, it underscores the sleek and timeless elegance of the Calatrava design yet expresses its very own distinctive personality.

The case middle displays Patek Philippe’s signature hobnail motif along its entire circumference. The subtly shining pattern of tiny pyramids was showcased on the bezel of the famous Ref. 3919 Calatrava “Clous de Paris” in 1985; it was produced for over 20 years and became one of the best-known models of the watch world. In 2021, it experienced a strong comeback in the new, highly contemporary Ref. 6119 Calatrava “Clous de Paris” that is made in rose gold and white gold.

On the case of the Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time, it provides a new perspective of this very refined element of the Patek Philippe style. To allow the hobnail pattern to so elegantly adorn the complete flank of the caseband, Patek Philippe conceived an exceptional case design in which the strap lugs are attached to the case back.

The vintage-style dial is crafted entirely by Cadrans Flückiger in Saint-Imier, a dial specialist which has belonged to Patek Philippe since 2004.

The dial is charcoal gray with a fine gradation to the periphery and has a slightly granular structure that is reminiscent of the cases of old photo cameras. The time of day is shown by applied Arabic numerals in white gold with beige luminous coatings.

The hours of local time and the minutes are displayed with luminous white-gold “Seringue” hands that with their long tips resemble syringes. A pierced “Seringue” hand indicates the hours of home time. The three apertures of the Annual Calendar – day of the week and month on one line at 12 o’clock, date at 6 o’clock – show easily legible black inscriptions on white backgrounds.

Two small round windows marked “LOCAL” at 8 o’clock and “HOME” at 4 o’clock are day/night indicators for local time and home time, respectively. This balanced arrangement is complemented by the subsidiary seconds that sweeps the moon-phase aperture at 6 o’clock.

The calendar indications can be adjusted with the aid of small correctors in the caseband located near the respective functions: day at 10, month at 2, date at 4 and moon phases at 8 o’clock. The vintage aspect is emphasized with a slightly raised box-design sapphire-crystal glass.

The new Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time is delivered with two interchangeable straps, one beige calfskin with nubuck texture (original version), the other black calfskin with embossed textile finish and beige decorative stitching (additional strap).

The eight patents of the new caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement

Time-setting with three crown positions (Swiss patent application CH 716383 A2): This time-setting system has a lever with three positions that can deactivate certain wheels as long as they are not performing any correction. This reduces energy consumption and wear of the respective wheels. The result is a gain for the balance amplitude (rate accuracy) and for reliability

Forward/backward mechanism for the Annual Calendar (European patent application EP 3776095 A1): This system relies mainly on the addition of a tooth and a spring on the month lever that allows the transition from the 30th to the 1st and from the 1st to the 30th without desynchronizing the date. Therefore, the user can easily switch the time zone forward or backward with the winding stem.

Linear time-zones spring (European patent EP 3650953 B1): This system consists of a star wheel and a jumper spring. It allows a strong torque increase between the local time hour wheel and the home time hour wheel and thus an acceleration of the date jumps despite the increase in energy consumption. It provides the user with more precise information.

Pivotable holding bridge (European patent applications EP 3714336 A1 and 070431/2021): This system keeps the day disc in position without the use of a center screw. To remove the disc, the watchmaker merely needs to pivot the bridge to the side. This releases the star without requiring the disassembly of the movement and without any modification of the settings. This timesaving and simplification is part of the improvements in watch maintenance.

Inertial delta (European patent application EP 3822711 A1): This mechanism offsets the inertia difference between a heavier and a lighter wheel. When the time zone is being corrected in either direction, it prevents an unintended forward or backward misalignment of the time displays (home time, local time, minutes). This increases the accuracy of the displays.

Braking mechanism for the date disc when a correction is made (European patent application EP 3882716 A1): This system with an additional spring (brake) is only active when the crown is pulled to the middle position. It prevents double jumps of the date disc if the user exerts too much force. It safeguards the greater reliability of the mechanism (amplitude gain and wear reduction).

Flexible correctors (European patent application 20205322.9): With a system of flexible leaf springs for switching protection purposes, this mechanism prevents the risk of a material failure when the user performs a correction during an unfavorable time window. This improves the reliability and longevity of the movement.

Technical details

Model: Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time

Movement
Caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H
Self-winding mechanical movement. Annual Calendar with aperture displays for the day, date, and month. Two Travel Time zones (local time and home time) with day/night indicators for local and home time
Moon phases and small seconds
Diameter: 33 mm
Inside case diameter: 31.74 mm
Height: 5.6 mm (2.6 mm for the base movement, 3 mm for the Annual Calendar and Travel Time module)
Number of parts: 409
Number of jewels: 47
Power reserve: Min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
Winding rotor: Off-center minirotor in 950 platinum, unidirectional winding
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance: Gyromax®
Balance spring: Spiromax® in Silinvar®
Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Functions
3-position crown
• Pushed home: manual winding
• Pulled to middle position: Setting of local time in either direction in one-hour steps
• Pulled all the way out: Setting of home time with hours and minutes, stop seconds

Displays
With hands:
• Hour hands for local and home time and minute hand from the center
• Subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock
In apertures:
• Day and month on one line at 12 o’clock
• Date at 6 o’clock
• Day/night indicator for local time at 8 o’clock
• Day/night indicator for home time at 4 o’clock
• Moon phases at 6 o’clock

Correctors
Month at 2 o’clock
Date at 4 o’clock
Moon phases at 8 o’clock
Day of week at 10 o’clock

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
18K white gold
Sapphire-crystal case back
Water resistant to 30 m (3 bar)
Case dimensions: Diameter: 41 mm
Height (crystal to display back): 11.07 mm

Dial
Granular, charcoal gray with black gradation to the periphery
Applied numerals in 18K white gold with beige luminous coating
Railway track minute scale and beige printed markers
Seringue hands for local time hours and minutes, 18K white gold with beige luminous coating
Pierced Seringue hand for home time hours, 18K white gold, lacquered beige
Small seconds with dagger hand, 18k white gold lacquered beige

Straps
Calfskin with nubuck finish, hand-stitched, beige
Delivered with additional calfskin strap with embossed textile pattern, black with beige decorative stitching
Fold-over clasp in 18K white gold

Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph

April 6, 2022 MasterHorologer

Patek Philippe has launched its first wrist chronograph for tenths-of-a-second short-time measurements with a new, very precise high-performance movement.

With this new grand complication watch, the Geneva manufacture presents a manually wound movement with two separate chronograph mechanisms and sweep hands. One of them indicates tenths of a second – precisely and very crisply. This high-tech high-frequency caliber (5 Hz) incorporates 31 patents, of which seven new patents are specific to the new mechanism.

Featuring a platinum case with a blue dial and red accents, this tenth-of-a-second monopusher chronograph will be produced in small series due to the complexity involved in producing such extremely complicated timepieces.

At Patek Philippe, chronographs have a rich, long-standing tradition. Since 1856, the manufacture has stood out with the sublime assets of its pocket chronographs with or without rattrapante hands, often in combination with other complications such as perpetual calendars or minute repeaters.

In ca, 1930–1931, the manufacture even developed a pocket watch with a tenth-of-a-second chronograph; today, it can be admired in the Patek Philippe Museum (Inv. P-340).

As early as 1923, in response to a commission, Patek Philippe had already crafted its first split-seconds chronograph. This single piece was followed starting in 1927 by the first regularly produced wrist chronographs with or without rattrapante hands, among them the legendary Ref. 130 which was made from 1934 onward to the early 1960s.

The first decades of the third millennium were particularly prolific in the field of short-time measurement. As from 2005, Patek Philippe developed an extensive suite of chronograph movements with and without additional complications (rattrapante hands, minute repeaters, perpetual calendars, Annual Calendars, World Time) that were all designed and crafted in the manufacture’s ateliers.

These chronograph movements feature numerous innovations and patented optimizations. Today, they are embedded in a regular collection with over 20 different models for ladies and gentlemen.

A condensate of mechanical achievements

To further push the boundaries of mechanical horology and delight the aficionados of highly technical timepieces, Patek Philippe decided to develop its first movement for a wrist chronograph that can measure and display tenths of a second.

For this purpose, the engineers relied on one of the in-house movements that had been developed during the past twenty years. It was the caliber CH 29-535 PS launched in 2009; it reflects traditional architecture (manually wound, column-wheel control, horizontal wheel clutch) enhanced with six patented innovations and is complemented by its split-seconds version with two sweep chronograph hands (CHR 29-535 PS).

The first task was to increase the frequency of the movement. With a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 semi-oscillations per hour that let the movement and the chronograph hands execute 8 jumps per second), the caliber CH 29-535 PS can merely measure eights of a second.

Conversely, the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 beats at a frequency of 5 Hz (36,000 semi-oscillations per hour for 10 jumps per second) and thus allows the measurement of tenths of a second. This is a premiere for a Patek Philippe wrist chronograph but it also requires more energy.

But a sweep seconds hand alone and a frequency of 5 Hz would not be sufficient to display tenths of a second with the desired accuracy. The dial of a wristwatch does not provide enough space for a scale with a microscopically tight tenths-of-a-second graduation.

The designers thus resolved to provide the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 with two independent chronograph mechanisms: one for the seconds and the instantaneous 30-minute counter, the other exclusively for measuring and displaying stopped tenths of a second.

A patented concentric display

With this decision, Patek Philippe opted for good legibility. In keeping with the manufacture’s customer-centric creation philosophy, it was essential to assure the ideally organized, fast and dependable readability of the tenths of a second, the seconds, and minutes of the chronograph.

The engineers therefore conceived a patented system that displays the measured seconds and the fractions of a second concentrically. The watch features two sweep chronograph hands, each of them driven by an independent mechanism. The hand that performs a complete revolution per minute shows the stopped seconds in the traditional manner.

The other hand (lacquered red in the new Ref. 5470P-001) performs one revolution per 12 seconds, i.e. five times faster than an ordinary chronograph hand and sweeps across 12 sectors subdivided into tenths.

In this way, the user can immediately read the elapsed seconds guided by the pearl markers and then, on the outer railway track scale, read the number of elapsed tenths of a second departing from the last red marker. The minutes of the short-time measurement are displayed by the instantaneous 30-minute counter on the subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock.

Given so much simplicity in use, the patented system’s heart is a true treasure chest of ingenious solutions in the movement but out of sight. As usual, Patek Philippe raised the bar and specified that the new caliber should meet ambitious requirements in every respect.

The watch should not only be able to measure and display tenths of a second but also retain this precision during a 30-minute run of the chronograph.

Additionally, the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 had to be built as compactly as possible while retaining the diameter of the base caliber (29.6 mm) and allowing only a slight height increase (from 5.35 mm to 6.96 mm) – despite the two chronograph mechanisms and a total of 396 parts. As a true accomplishment in miniaturization, this new movement is even shorter than the rattrapante caliber CHR 29-535 PS (7.1 mm).

Energy control and high precision

The Patek Philippe Grand Complication thus created is as complex as a tourbillon, a minute repeater or a split-seconds chronograph. For the frequency of 5 Hz and the integration of a second chronograph mechanism with a high-speed hand, the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 requires considerably more energy.

To master and limit this energy appetite, the engineers had to intervene at all nooks and crannies of the movement. And of course, the term “precision” dominated the entire development of the movement.

The challenge began with a single mainspring that was needed to provide energy for the whole movement. Patek Philippe reworked this component and increased its efficiency to preserve the amplitude of the balance spring as much as possible and to assure optimized rate stability.

To increase the available energy and boost the power reserve, the diameter of the barrel arbor was reduced and the number of mainspring coils increased. A patented notch reduces the tension of the slip bridle during the winding process, thus eliminating the risk of damage due to the increased force.

A high-tech regulator mechanism

To handle the three challenges – efficiency, reliability, and rate accuracy – Patek Philippe decided to use its Oscillomax® ensemble that had been developed by the “Patek Philippe Advanced Research” department.

This high-tech regulator mechanism was presented in 2011, was granted 17 patents, and has three innovative components that rely on all advantages of the Silinvar® technology – it is based on a derivative of silicon with extraordinary physical and mechanical characteristics (lightweight, rugged, antimagnetic, etc.).

The ensemble operates with a Spiromax® balance spring with a patented terminal curve and an inner boss (patent granted in 2017, Ref. 5650), a Pulsomax® escapement consisting of a lever and escape wheel with extensively reworked geometries as well as a Gyromax® balance in Silinvar® with gold inlays.

This is the first time since the launch of the Perpetual Calendar Patek Philippe Advanced Research Ref. 5550P (2011) that Patek Philippe has added the Oscillomax® ensemble in its current collection.

But this decision plays a decisive role for the exceptional performance of the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 movement. And it enables the high rate accuracy with a maximum deviation of -3/+2 seconds per day specified by the Patek Philippe Seal – despite the clearly higher energy consumption of the movement.

Fluid and perfectly synchronized hand movements

Another big challenge arose during the development of the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 regarding the quality of the display, particularly of the tenths of a second. The two chronograph displays must be perfectly synchronized. Despite the high speed of rotation, the tenth-of-a-second hand must move fluidly without jumps or vibrations. Here, too, the manufacture’s engineers developed and implemented innovative solutions.

The mechanism for displaying the tenths of a second receives its energy via a driving wheel from the fourth wheel of the base movement. Patek Philippe designed the driving wheel in a novel two-part arrangement: the upper wheel with flexible spokes, the lower one with rigid spokes.

Thanks to this patented anti-backlash principle that is both compact and energy-saving, the teeth of the driving wheel exert an elastic force on the clutch wheel, eliminating any risk of hand vibration.

As soon as the chronograph is started, the tenth-of-a-second driving wheel (with one revolution per minute) engages with the tenth-of-a-second pinion that performs one revolution in 12 seconds (turning five times faster).

To enable this “acceleration”, Patek Philippe provided the tenth-of-a-second pinion with microtoothing: 136 teeth on a pinion diameter of 1.469 mm and with a tooth height of 30 μm. The pretensioning force exerted by the clutch wheel on the pinion suppresses tooth backlash. Many individual measures maximize the accuracy of the display.

A proven shock absorber

Another indispensable measure needed for a user-centric solution relates to the shock absorber. The new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 had to handle all requirements and risks to which it would be exposed in daily use.

For this purpose, Patek Philippe developed two patented mechanisms. One of them is a shock absorber hook that would secure the clutch rocker during the entire short-time measurement process.

The second one uses the “unbalances” (centers of gravity, not to be confused with centers of rotation) of components of the mechanism for the tenths-of-a-second chronograph. In the event of a shock, the acceleration values of the components exposed to it are compensated instead of being cumulated. The result is that all components remain in the desired positions, eliminating any impact on the correct function of the watch.

A monopusher chronograph

The chronograph has a single pusher at 2 o’clock that successively executes the start, stop, and reset commands. This monopusher arrangement recalls the classic chronographs and will delight the aficionados of technical timepieces.

In addition to the patented special features of the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10, the new watch embodies the seamless pairing of tradition and innovation that constitutes the core of the Patek philosophy.

The sapphire-crystal case back (interchangeable with the solid platinum back delivered with the watch) affords a spectacular view of the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 with its filigreed components and the elaborately executed finissage (bridges with chamfered and polished edges, Geneva striping, etc.). The engraved, gilt inscriptions “Oscillomax 5 Hz” and “GyromaxSi” on the bridges refer to the innovative movement components.

A movement dedicated entirely to performance and short-time measurements needs to be well protected so Patek Philippe created an inimitably sporty exterior. To case this condensate of technical prowess, the manufacture chose platinum, the most precious metal but also the most difficult one to machine.

The gently rounded case has the same design as the manually wound Ref. 5370 Split Seconds Chronograph launched in 2015. As a special feature, it has a concave bezel that forms a perfect transition to the slightly domed sapphire-crystal glass.

The case flanks are slightly recessed and satin-finished, the lugs are subtly curved and feature decorative cabochons at the ends of the spring bars. Like all of Patek Philippe’s platinum models, the Ref. 5470P-001 is adorned with a flawless brilliant-cut diamond between the lugs at 6 o’clock.

The elegant blue of the dial harmonizes exceptionally well with the shimmering reflections of the platinum case, at the same time offering the perfect contrast for the crisp legibility of the individual displays.

The chronograph seconds are indicated with a sandblasted and rhodiumed steel hand on a minute scale with small gold pearls. The tenths of a second are displayed with a slender hand in Silinvar®.

Because it is so lightweight, the high-tech material saves energy but has the rigidity needed to withstand the shock that occurs when the chronograph is abruptly stopped.

Thanks to a new patented process for decorating the Silinvar® hand, in this case lacquered red, and a second patent concerning the attachment of the pipe to the Silinvar® hand by brazing, Patek Philippe succeeded for the first time in using the promising material for external features of a watch.

The red color of the hand is also echoed on the markers of the railway-track scale for reading tenths of a second. As long as the chronograph is not operating, the red and gray chronograph hands are superposed and look like a single hand. Once a short-time measurement has been started with the pusher at 2 o’clock, it launches its fascinating ballet with two separate rotation speeds.

The instantaneous 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and the small seconds at 9 o’clock have crisp railway-track scales to improve the legibility of the respective information.

The new 5470P-001 is worn on a navy blue calfskin strap with an embossed fabric pattern and red decorative seams in perfect harmony with the colors of the dial. Its fold-over clasp in platinum assures comfort and safety on the wrist.

The seven patents of the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 movement

Concentric display (Patent WO2012104688A1): This display mode based on two sweep hands assures simple, swift, and safe legibility of seconds and fractions of a second.
Notch in the barrel arbor (Patent WO2017005394A1): The addition of this notch reduces the tension on the spring hook while the mainspring is being wound. It also allows a smaller diameter of the barrel arbor, increasing the energy stored in the mainspring by further spring coils.
1/10 driving wheel with anti-backlash feature (European patent application EP3042250A1): This design on two levels (an upper wheel with flexible spokes and a lower one with rigid spokes) allows the creation of an anti-backlash wheel that is compact and consumes little energy.
Chronograph with shock-absorber hook (Patent WO2015173372A2): In the event of a shock, this system securely holds the clutch rocker of the operating chronograph mechanism to prevent disruptions of the ongoing short-time measurement.
Pendulum shock absorber (Swiss Patent CH713473A2): This system utilizes the acceleration forces of shocks on the watch to keep the components of a mechanism in the desired position and thus to assure correct functionality.
Surface primer for the silicon hand (European patent application EP3764167A1): With a fine primer coating (e.g. PVD or CVD), this process improves the adhesion of lacquer on a silicon-oxide surface (Silinvar®).
Assembly process for watch components (European patent EP 3309624 B1): Thanks to a multi-layer metal coating, this process for joining two base materials, one of which non-metallic, allows the pipe of a Silinvar® hand to be brazed.

These patents are complemented by the six patented innovations for the caliber CH 29-535 PS introduced in 2009, the 17 patents for the development of the high-tech Oscillomax® ensemble (2011), and the patent for the optimized Spiromax® balance spring with a terminal curve and an inner boss (2017). The caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 unites a total of 31 inventions developed and patented by Patek Philippe.

Technical details

Model: Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph

Movement
Caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10
Manually wound mechanical movement, chronograph with column-wheel control, horizontal dual clutch with wheels and instantaneous 30-minute counter, module for tenths-of-a-second measurements of the chronograph with sweep hand, small seconds
Diameter: 29.6 mm
Height: 6.96 mm
Number of parts: 396
Number of jewels: 38
Power reserve: Min. 48 hours (with chronograph switched off)
Balance: Gyromax® in Silinvar® with inlays in 99.9% gold
Frequency: 36,000 semi-oscillations per hour (5 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax® in Silinvar®
Escapement: Pulsomax® with lever and escape wheel in Silinvar®
Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Functions
2-position crown
– Pushed in: To wind the watch
– Pulled out: To set the time and stop seconds

Displays
Center hour and minute hands
Chronograph hand and tenths-of-a-second chronograph hand from the center
30-minute counter at 6 o’clock
Subsidiary seconds at 9 o’clock

Pushers
Chronograph start, stop, and reset at 2 o’clock

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
950 platinum
Sapphire-crystal case back and interchangeable solid platinum back
Flawless rare white Top Wesselton diamond between the lugs at 6 o’clock
Water resistant to 30 m (3 bar)
Diameter: 41 mm
Height (crystal to display back): 13.68 mm

Dial
Brass, lacquered blue
Applied Breguet numerals in 18K white gold and minute pearl markers
Railway track scale printed white and red (minutes, snailed small seconds at 9 o’clock, snailed 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock)
Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands in 18K white gold with luminous coating
Small seconds with sword hand in 18K white gold
Chronograph hand, sandblasted steel, rhodiumed
Tenths-of-a-second chronograph hand in red lacquered Silinvar®
30-minute counter with sword hand in 18K white gold

Strap
Calfskin with embossed fabric pattern, hand-stitched, navy blue with red contrast seams, fold-over clasp in 950 platinum

Patek Philippe Ref. 5750 “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater

December 15, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

Patek Philippe presents a state-of-the-art Minute Repeater watch developed by its “Advanced Research” department.

For this new acoustic complication watch, Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” has developed a totally new all-mechanical sound amplifying system. This fortissimo “ff” module consists of a flexibly suspended sound lever and an oscillating wafer made of transparent sapphire-crystal glass. In comparison with conventional minute repeaters and regardless of the case material, it delivers clearly amplified sound of excellent acoustic quality.

Carrying four patents, the ground-breaking technology is presented in the Ref. 5750 “Advanced Research” minute repeater, a special limited edition consisting of 15 watches cased in platinum and endowed with a unique dial design.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5750 “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater

Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” Innovations for Minute repeaters

(1) A sound amplification system with a sapphire-crystal oscillating wafer

Departing from the famous self-winding caliber R 27, the movement with which Patek Philippe in 1989 ushered in the grand comeback of the minute repeater, the engineers and designers at Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” searched for a way to amplify the volume of the time strike in a purely mechanical manner while preserving the excellent acoustic quality as well as the smallest possible dimensions.

After several technical forays in various directions, they decided to preserve the design of the base movement and then on the bridge side (the side facing the wrist) to add a module that works like a mechanical loudspeaker. But unlike normal loudspeakers, the amplification of the sound does not rely on a flexible diaphragm which like the skin of a drum is attached along its periphery. Instead of a membrane, the system for which Patek Philippe registered three patents has an oscillating wafer made of synthetic sapphire with a thickness of 0.2 mm.

Thanks to its angular motion, this rigid and freely movable wafer provides clearly better sound propagation for the confined volume of a wristwatch. The transparency of the sapphire glass also preserves the unobstructed view of the movement through the case back. To implement this heavily miniaturized system, the developers had to master considerable challenges, both in design and in production.

(2) A flexibly suspended sound lever

To achieve sound transmission from the gongs of the minute repeater to the sapphire-glass oscillating wafer, the engineers developed a system with a steel sound lever that is attached in the middle of the oscillating wafer. The other end of this sound lever that resembles a tuning fork features a flexible attachment with a thickness of 0.08 mm.

When the hammers strike the gongs, their oscillations are transmitted to the sound lever which in a first phase amplifies them and transmits them to the rigid oscillating wafer where they are further amplified. The angular motion of the oscillating wafer excites the air layers above and beneath the sapphire glass, producing a noticeably louder sound.

(3) A new type of sound propagation

Parallel to the integration of the fortissimo “ff” amplifier module, the team also developed a totally new sound propagation system. In a classic minute repeater, the strikes of the hammers on the gongs create oscillations of the entire watch. The sound is propagated on all sides by the case, the back, and the crystal glass.

Therefore, the case material has a significant influence on the sound, whereby rose gold is considered the best precious metal for sound propagation while platinum, with its higher material density, presents the greatest acoustic challenge. In the minute repeater with the fortissimo module, an insulation rim made of a high-tech composite material acoustically uncouples the amplifier from the movement. The sound is first routed to the sound lever and then to the oscillating wafer and subsequently propagated through four openings at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock in a titanium ring.

The sound waves exit through a narrow slot between the case back and the case band. A dust filter protects the movement without affecting the sound. So the case material does not influence the sound and its propagation. It is always of the same quality, regardless of whether the case material is rose, yellow, or white gold or platinum.

(4) A distinctly louder and totally harmonious sound

The fortissimo module attached in the case back allows the sound to be heard at a six-fold larger distance. So a classic minute repeater on the wrist, at a distance of 10 m, sounds as loud and clear as an amplified minute repeater at a distance of 60 m. The manufacture also leveraged its rich experience in the domain of chiming watches to create a reverberating sound that also pleases the ear; this requires considerable dexterity and acute hearing.

Even though the sound amplified by the fortissimo module differs slightly from that of other minute repeaters, it offers the harmonic quality and acoustic richness that underpin the unique reputation of Patek Philippe minute repeaters and arouse enthusiasm with a long resonant fade out relative to the “attack” (hardness). Additionally, the maximum duration of the time strike (32 strikes at 12:59) – it usually lasts 17 to 18 seconds – was extended to 20 to 21 seconds, allowing the gongs to fade somewhat longer.

(5) Platinum components

Apart from the additional fortissimo module, the caliber R 27 PS benefits from further technical enhancements with respect to materials and design factors. The minute repeater hammers, originally in steel, were replaced with platinum hammers, a patented solution that in this specific case improves the quality of the strike in line with the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal and produces a softer strike as well without reducing its sonority. A minirotor in platinum replaces the eccentrically recessed minirotor in 22K gold; thanks to the greater material density, it delivers the same winding power with a thinner design. With it, the thickness of the fortissimo module can at least be partially offset.

Ref. 5750P Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater

The Ref. 5750P Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” minute repeater comes in a sleek case with a slightly domed bezel. It is inspired by the Ref. 5178 minute repeater with cathedral gongs, has the same diameter of 40 mm. However, with a height of 11.1 mm, it is 0.57 mm thicker. To demonstrate the efficiency of the fortissimo system, the manufacture opted for platinum, the material that poses the greatest acoustic challenges. It is a limited edition of 15 watches.

In its center, the five-part elaborately constructed dial features an openworked motif inspired by the spoked wheels of vintage automobiles. It stands out against the black background with snailed spiraling lines. The subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock consists of a rotating disc with the same open-worked motif against a black snailed background and a small marker that serves as a hand – a movable element which creates a unique, dynamic effect. The time is indicated by flat Dauphine hands in white gold and applied kite-type hour markers in blackened white gold.

The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the hammers and the classic gongs of the minute repeater as well as the sound lever in the shape of a tuning fork that carries the transparent oscillating wafer of the fortissimo amplifier system. A pierced Calatrava cross decorates the cover of the centrifugal governor that assures the regular rhythm of the time strikes. The spectacular outlook also shows the Gyromax® balance spring in Silinvar® launched in 2006 by Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” as well as the large bridge with Geneva striping and carefully chamfered and polished edges.

The platinum minirotor sports a ray pattern in the style of the dial; it was created with a laser-based light-absorbing surface texturing technique that allows certain segments to appear black. This limited special edition is worn on a shiny orange alligator strap with black contrast seams and a platinum fold-over clasp.

Patents

Loudspeaker with freely oscillating wafer: PCT/EP2021/066501 – TIMEPIECE COMPONENT COMPRISING A SOUND AMPLIFICATION DEVICE.
Sound amplification mechanism: EP3812844 A1 – TIMEPIECE COMPONENT COMPRISING A SOUND AMPLIFICATION DEVICE.
Platinum hammers: CH00153/21 – STRIKEWORK MECHANISM COMPRISING A STRIKEWORK HAMMER AND A STRIKEWORK GONG, IN REFERENCE TO SAID STRIKEWORK HAMMER AND IN REFERENCE TO SAID STRIKEWORK GONG.
Helical gongs with a coplanar attachment assure the balanced amplification of the hour and minute strikes
EP21203307.0 – BOSSED GONG ASSEMBLY FOR THE STRIKING MECHANISM OF A MOVEMENT

About Patek Philippe “Advanced Research”

Founded in 2005, the Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” department has meanwhile been integrated in the Research & Development division and vested with the task of pursuing high-end research in the fields of new materials, technologies, and conceptual fundamentals intended to open totally new perspectives in the domain of watchmaking.

To attain these objectives, the manufacture has established unique competencies, called together its best specialists, and provided them with the latest technical resources, including instruments required for computer simulation. The engineers at Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” also collaborate with independent external research facilities such as the Centre suisse d’électronique et de microtechnique de Neuchâtel (CSEM) or the Federal Institute of Technology Lausanne (EPFL).

Since 2005, Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” has stood out with pioneering work in the innovative field of Silinvar®, a derivative of silicon with phenomenal characteristics for watchmaking applications (temperature compensating, lightweight, lubricant-free, antimagnetic, etc.).

Concurrently, the manufacture presented the first escape wheel in Silinvar® (2005), followed by the Spiromax® balance spring (2006), the Pulsomax® escapement (2008), the Oscillomax® ensemble (2011), and a further optimized version of the Spiromax® balance spring (2017). Each of these technology leaps was accompanied by the launch of a wristwatch in limited editions that were the first to be endowed with the innovative components. In the meantime, most of the movements for the current Patek Philippe watch collections are equipped with Spiromax® balance springs made of Silinvar®.

In 2017, in a totally different field of research, Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” developed a compliant mechanism (system with flexible articulations) made of conventional horological steel that in Patek Philippe watches with two time zones is used to set the second time zone. This technical innovation was launched in the limited-edition watch that also first featured the optimized Spiromax® balance spring.

Patek Philippe “Advanced Research”: key achievements

2005: Silinvar®

Silinvar® is a novel, patented material based on monocrystalline silicon. It was developed in collaboration with Rolex, the Swatch Group, and CSEM in Neuchâtel, and is suitable for applications in watchmaking.

Thanks to a patented oxidation process that causes molecular changes in the outmost layers, it has temperature-compensating characteristics. In the temperature range from -10°C to +60°C, components made of Silinvar® are highly stable – or invariable as suggested by its name (Silinvar® = silicon + invariable).

This advantage is one of several positive characteristics that make Silinvar® a true super material for horology.

• Silinvar® is very lightweight and has merely a third of the mass of steel. Silinvar® watch components can therefore be moved with less energy and react less sensitively to the earth’s gravitation.
• Silinvar® is twice as hard as steel and thus more wear-resistant.
• Silinvar® cannot be magnetized and is thus insensitive to magnetic fields.
• Silinvar® is corrosion-resistant.
• In microstructures, Silinvar® is very flexible but does not deform permanently. It is therefore very shock-resistant and dimensionally stable.
• Silinvar® components are manufactured with the DRIE process. Deep Reactive Ion Etching produces components of consistently identical shape and quality.
• Thanks to the DRIE process and the know-how accrued in this domain, Silinvar® components can be manufactured with tolerances of less than 1/1000 mm.

2005: First escape wheel in Silinvar®

This new part improves dependability because it requires no lubricants. It also reduces the mass to be moved (better efficiency), is corrosion-resistant, and remains perfectly concentric. Launch of the Ref. 5250 Annual Calendar Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” with a Silinvar® escape wheel in a limited edition of 100 watches.

2006: Spiromax® balance spring in Silinvar®

• Optimized rate accuracy by improved isochronism thanks to concentric breathing (expansion and contraction) of the balance spring.
• Lighter balance spring, less sensitive to external factors such as shocks and gravity.
• Flat design, three times thinner than a Breguet hairspring.
• Patented geometry (Patek Philippe boss at the outer end, integrated stud attachment, self-centering integrated collet) for attachment to the balance staff.

Launch of the Ref. 5350 Annual Calendar Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” with a Spiromax® balance spring and an escape wheel made of Silinvar® in a limited edition of 300 watches.

Meanwhile, the internally produced Spiromax® balance spring has been integrated in most Patek Philippe movement families, especially in calibers 300 (Grandmaster Chime), 301 (Grande Sonnerie), R 27 (except the R TO 27), 240, 28-520, 324, 26-330, 31-260, 25-21, 215 and 30-255.

2008: Pulsomax® escapement in Silinvar®

• Optimized geometry of escape wheel and lever
• Increase of energy efficiency by 15%

Launch of the Ref. 5450 Annual Calendar Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” with a Pulsomax® escapement and a Spiromax® balance spring in a limited edition of 300 watches.

2011: Oscillomax® ensemble (Pulsomax® escapement with GyromaxSi balance and Spiromax® balance spring)

With respect to precision adjustment, the GyromaxSi® balance preserves all of the advantages of the Gyromax® balance that was patented in 1951 (adjustment by changing the moment of inertia of the balance, no impact on the active length of the balance spring.

• Optimization of the advantages of the Gyromax® principle by a mass reduction near the balance staff thanks to a lightweight Silinvar® chassis.
• Concentration of the active mass on the outside edge thanks to pure gold inlays.
• Aerodynamic optimization of the balance with a 15% power gain.
• Change of the moment of inertia with four asymmetric poising weights
• All proven advantages of the Spiromax® balance spring and of the Pulsomax® escapement.

Launch of the Ref. 5550 Perpetual Calendar Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” with the Oscillomax® ensemble in a limited edition of 300 watches.

2017: Optimized Spiromax® balance spring

New Spiromax® balance spring thanks to an inner boss (thicker part at the inner end) to improve isochronism of the balance in the vertical positions. This progress is the subject of several patents, allowing a rate accuracy of -1 to +2 seconds per day in comparison with a Patek Philippe Tourbillon watch.

Launch of Ref. 5650 Aquanaut Travel Time Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” with a compliant mechanism for setting the time zone and optimized Spiromax® balance spring in a limited edition of 500 watches. Since then, the optimized Spiromax® balance spring has been integrated in most Patek Philippe movements, especially in calibers 240, 215, 28-520 and 324.

2017: Correctors with compliant mechanism in steel

Compliant mechanism for correcting the time zones. It utilizes the elasticity of materials in microstructures and replaces articulations with pivots and leaf springs. This technical development offers numerous advantages: simplified assembly (12 parts as opposed to 37 previously), flatter design, no mechanical play, no friction, no arbor wear, which results in totally lubricant-free functionality and excellent energy efficiency.

Technical details

Model: Ref. 5750 Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater
Limited edition of 15 pieces

Movement
Caliber R 27 PS
Self-winding mechanical movement. Minute repeater with classic gongs and small seconds
Patented fortissimo “ff” system for sound amplification and propagation consisting of a flexibly suspended sound lever, a transparent sapphire-glass oscillating wafer, a composite insulating rim and four sound openings in a titanium ring.
Diameter: 28 mm
Height: 6.05 mm
Number of parts: 342
Number of jewels: 39
Power reserve: Min. 43 hours, max. 48 hours
Winding rotor: Minirotor in 950 platinum with laser texture, unidirectional winding
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz)
Balance: Gyromax®
Balance spring: Spiromax® (in Silinvar®)
Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Displays
With hands: Center hours and minutes
With disk: Subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock

Functions
Two-position crown:
• Pushed home: To wind the watch
• Pulled out: To set the time

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
950 platinum
Sapphire-crystal case back
Minute-repeater slide in left-hand case flank
Not water-resistant, protected against moisture and dust
Diamond at 6 o’clock
Case dimensions: Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.1 mm
Width between lugs: 21 mm

Dial
White gold, black nickel-plated snailed base, open-worked ray motif, hand-guilloched edging, hour circle with circular satin finish
Applied kite-type hour markers in blackened 18K white gold
Flat Dauphine hour and minute hands in 18K white gold, black transfer-printed
Subsidiary seconds disk with marker at 6 o’clock

Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with large square scales, shiny orange with black contrast stitching, 950 platinum foldover clasp

Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany & Co.” Limited Edition

December 15, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

To commemorate 170 years of its alliance with Tiffany & Co., Patek Philippe has created a limited-edition run of Ref. 5711/1A-018 Nautilus wristwatches in steel endowed with famous Tiffany Blue® dials. Unique to these timepieces is the dual stamping of both companies, “Tiffany & Co.” at 6 o’clock paired with Patek Philippe at 12 o’clock. Introduced in 2006, the best selling Nautilus Ref. 5711 series will be retired from the collection in 2022.

The horizontal relief embossed dial is amplified by baton hour markers as well as baton hour and minute hands, all in blackened white gold with luminous coatings and features. The peerless design of the case, the bezel, and the integrated steel bracelet is highlighted by the refined sequence of satin-finished and polished links.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany & Co.” Limited Edition — Image Credit: Patek Philippe

The rugged case is water-resistant to 120 meters. It accommodates the self-winding caliber 26-330 S C, a movement that features various technical innovations and optimizations as well as a stop-seconds mechanism that allows the time to be set with one-second accuracy. The sapphire-crystal case back bears the commemorative inscription “170th Anniversary 1851-2021 Tiffany & Co. – Patek Philippe“.

Only a quantity of 170 units will be available exclusively in the Tiffany boutiques in New York, Beverly Hills, and San Francisco that carry Patek Philippe.

Tiffany & Co. auctioned off one of the commemorative watches with Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo on December 11th, with 100% of proceeds benefitting The Nature Conservancy, a global environmental organization. It was sold for $6.5 million, making it the highest value watch to sell online at any auction house.

Both Patek Philippe (1839) and Tiffany & Co. (1837) were founded within two years of one another. From the onset, the Genevan manufacture and the American jeweler have always shared the same values: a quest for perfection, a passion for artisanal skills and a top-tier appreciation and service for customers.

In 1851, Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. forged an agreement that made the American jeweler the first official retail partner for Patek Philippe timepieces in the U.S. market. On the occasion of the first business trip to the new world, Antoine Norbert de Patek reasserted the special nature of the relationship and paid a visit to Charles Lewis Tiffany in New York. On his departure, he was deeply impressed by the business volume of the luxury jewelry retailer and by a large order of 150 watches.

In 1876, the two companies signed a new agreement that appointed Tiffany & Co. the general representative for the United States “who safeguards the interests of Patek Philippe & Cie. as if they were its own interests”. Conversely, the Genevan company pledged to safeguard the American jeweler’s interests as evidenced by the huge façade sign “Agents for Tiffany & Co., New York” at Patek Philippe’s historic headquarters facing the Grand Quai. On the premises of the same Patek Philippe Salons in Geneva, there is further proof of the solid transatlantic relationship: a large steel vault formerly owned by Tiffany & Co. and decorated by an American eagle sporting two flags.

In the period from 1900 to 1930, Tiffany & Co. also played a key role in the relationships between Patek Philippe and major American timepiece collectors such as Henry Graves Junior for whom the manufacture crafted an extensive range of complicated watches. In 1946, the grandfather of the manufacture’s current president Thierry Stern founded the Henri Stern Watch Agency in New York. It actively nurtured the continuation of the successful partnership.

In 2008, Patek Philippe intensified its relationship with the American jeweler and opened a boutique within the famous Tiffany retail venue on Fifth Avenue that is currently undergoing extensive renovation. The manufacture’s complete current collection can be admired here.

Since the beginning of the third millennium, Patek Philippe created several limited special editions for the American partner; they recall important dates and bear dual stamps for both brands. Today, Tiffany & Co. is the world’s only retailer, whose name appears on a Patek Philippe dial, making these watches highly sought-after with collectors.

The previous limited editions Patek Philippe made especially for Tiffany & Co.

2001: Refs. 5150R, 5150J & 5150G – 450 watches

Launched in 2001 to celebrate the 150th year of partnership between the two companies, the Ref. 5150 Annual Calendar was the first limited edition created by Patek Philippe for a U.S. retailer. As a special feature, the month indication was shown as a numeral. A total of 450 watches were made: 150 in rose gold, 150 in yellow gold, and 150 in white gold.

2009: Refs. 4987G-001 & 4987G-010 – 100 watches

Launched in 2009 on the occasion of the first anniversary of the Patek Philippe Boutique at Tiffany & Co. on Fifth Avenue in New York, this art deco-inspired Gondolo ladies’ wristwatch featured a tonneau case and a guilloched dial decorated with a two-row diamond setting. Fifty watches with white and 50 with black dials were created.

2012: Refs. 4987G-011 & 4987G-012 – 50 watches

Presented in 2012 on the occasion of the fifth anniversary of the Patek Philippe Boutique at Tiffany & Co. on Fifth Avenue in New York (2013), this Gondolo ladies’ wristwatch features art deco accents and a slightly cambered tonneau-shaped case with two rows of diamonds and large rhythmically arranged Roman numerals. Its edition was limited to 25 watches with a blue sunburst dial and 25 watches with a mother-of-pearl dial.

2012: Ref. 5396G-012 – 100 watches

This white gold men’s watch with an Annual Calendar comes in a limited edition of 100 timepieces. It displays the day of the week and the month in a double aperture at 12 o’clock and has an analog date at 6 o’clock. The back is graced with the engraved inscription “Patek Philippe – A Shared Vision – 2008-2013 – that recalls the fifth anniversary of the Patek Philippe Boutique at Tiffany & Co. on Fifth Avenue.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany & Co.”

Edition
Limited to 170 watches

Movement
Caliber 26-330 S C
Self-winding mechanical movement, sweep seconds, and aperture date
Diameter: 27 mm
Height: 3.3 mm
Number of parts: 212
Number of jewels: 30
Power reserve: Min. 35 hours, max. 45 hours
Winding rotor: Central rotor in 21K gold, unidirectional winding
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax® in Silinvar®
Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Functions
Three-position crown:
• Pushed home: To wind the watch
• Pulled halfway out: Rapid date correction
• Pulled all the way out: Handsetting with stop seconds

Displays
Hours, minutes, and sweep seconds
Date aperture at 3 o’clock
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Case
Stainless steel
Sapphire-crystal caseback with inscription “170th Anniversary 1851-2021 Tiffany & Co. – Patek Philippe”
Water resistant to 120 m (12 bar)
Case dimensions: Diameter (10 to 4 o’clock): 40 mm
Height: 8.3 mm

Dial
Dial plate in brass with Tiffany Blue® lacquer and with horizontal Nautilus embossing
Black printed signatures “Patek Philippe Genève” at 12 o’clock and “Tiffany & Co.” at 6 o’clock.
12 applied baton-style hour markers in blackened 18K white gold, luminous coating
Baton-style hour and minute hands in black nickel-plated 18K white gold, luminous coating
Seconds hand in black nickel-plated Pfinodal, counterbalanced

Bracelet
Steel link bracelet with fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe’s Unique Ref. 27001M-001 Desk Clock Achieves 9.5 Million CHF at Only Watch 2021

December 9, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

At the charitable 2021 Only Watch auction which took place in Geneva on Saturday, November 6, the Patek Philippe Ref. 27001M-001 desk clock with a perpetual calendar, a power reserve of 31 days, and a totally new patented mechanism fetched an amazing amount of 9.5 million Swiss francs.

This amount has been donated to the Monaco Association against Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy (Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies AMM) in its efforts to pursue the development of therapies for the treatment of degenerative neuromuscular diseases.

Since 2005, Patek Philippe has been supporting the charitable Only Watch timepiece auction, each time donating a special unique version of one of its wristwatches, usually a grand complication. For the Only Watch auction in 2021, the manufacture opted for a new approach and created a desk clock with a novel mechanism as well as unique features.

Patek Philippe took inspiration from a desk clock with a perpetual calendar and a power reserve of 8 days originally created in 1922/1923 for James Ward, an engineer and automobile manufacturer who ranked among the most loyal and illustrious customers of the manufacture. Today, this timepiece can be admired in the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva (Inv. No. P-140). But the engineers were tasked with the creation of a totally new manually wound movement with a power reserve of 31 days, a rate accuracy of ±1 seconds per day and a level of user-friendliness worthy of a 21st-century caliber.

The result of seven years of development work is the rectangular caliber 86-135 PEND IRM Q SE with the Patek Philippe Seal; it is composed of 919 parts of which nearly half belong to the perpetual calendar. Its development was accompanied by nine patent applications. They relate to innovations and optimizations to boost long-term reliability, to reduce energy consumption of the perpetual calendar, to improve user convenience, and to safeguard functionality in the event of incorrect manipulation.

The power reserve of 31 days is achieved with three spring barrels connected in series. To guarantee a maximum rate deviation of ± 1 second per day, the engineers endowed the movement with a veritable precision adjustment ensemble.

With a patented constant-force mechanism, it assures that the amplitude of the balance remains constant for an entire month, from the first to the last day of the power reserve. A discreetly positioned power-reserve indicator in the middle of the dial informs the user when the movement needs to be rewound.

As regards functions in comparison with the “Packard” desk clock, Patek Philippe added two innovations.

One of them is a jumping second (also referred to as a seconde morte) that in the style of antique regulator clocks performs a small jump every second. The second one is a weekly calendar – the useful display of the week number – which thanks to a small frame on the edge of the dial that moves along the week number scale makes it quickly and easily legible. The manufacture retained the display of hours and minutes on an off-center subdial at 12 o’clock, the moon-phase display at 6 o’clock, and the day/month indications in apertures at 9 and 3 o’clock.

The date display of the perpetual calendar – in the “Packard” clock, it uses a hand from the center – is an analog date with a subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock. It is supplemented with two aperture displays for the day/night indication (at 7:30) and the leap year cycle (at 4:30). Both displays are indispensable for setting the calendar. All displays stand out very legibly against the opaline 3N yellow gilt dial.

For the unique Only Watch 2021 timepiece, the designers largely adopted the shape of the “Packard” desk clock, albeit in a slightly larger scale. At the same time, they gave it an innovative touch, endowing it with a veritable mechanical dashboard beneath a hinged cover which folds open to the left. With the modern control desk, all settings can be made intuitively, simply, and practically – fully in line with Patek Philippe’s user-centric philosophy.

Beneath the hinged cover in the upper left-hand corner, there is a socket with a patented ejection system for the key used to wind and set the clock. The upper right-hand corner has two key openings for setting the time and winding the movement. Thanks to its ample power reserve, the desk clock will operate 31 days each time it is fully wound.

The engineers placed five correctors beneath the dial. The correctors are marked with letters on symbols and can be operated with fingertip convenience to set the perpetual calendar from left to right in the same order as they appear on the dial: Week, day of the week (Day), moon phases (crescent moon), Month and date (Calendar).

It takes a complex system of mechanical countershafts to be able to arrange these correctors on an arc. Directly beneath it, a further opening makes it possible to stop and restart the movement with a key. Thanks to this stop-seconds feature, the time can be set with one-second accuracy.

For the looks of the Only Watch desk clock, Patek Philippe took inspiration from the richly decorated historic role model and reinterpreted it in a classic-timeless manner. The case in 925 silver carries veneers of precious American walnut in reference to Packard’s homeland and is decorated with traditional screen-printed gold fillets.

The case edge shows a cord motif that is repeated on the bezel. We see silver-gilt appliques in the style of the decorative elements on the 1923 desk clock; three rosettes in the bottom corners and at 12 o’clock, acanthus scrollwork that frames the Calatrava cross, and four case feet depicting griffon vultures. A plaque on the narrow front side bears the inscription “THE ONLY ONE” to emphasize the one-of-a-kind aspect of this exclusive treasure.

The nine patents of the caliber 86-135 PEND IRM Q SE

Patent 1: Ejection system for the winding and setting key recessed beneath the hinged cover.
Patent 2: Ratchet restraint to assure the perfect rotation and truth in the flat of all three spring barrels.
Patent 3: System for using the spring barrels in both directions with the aid of an intermediate barrel that rotates in the opposite direction of the two others.
Patent 4: Constant force mechanism to assure stability of the balance amplitude from the first to the last day of the power-reserve range.
Patent 5: Power-reserve indicator with an elastic endpoint and connection to the wheel train so that the movement can continue to run when the indicator stands at zero.
Patent 6: Limitation of the path of the large lever to save energy as long as this component is not active.
Patent 7: Optimized stop pawl to reduce energy consumption of the perpetual calendar.
Patent 8: Double-jump suppression for the week number display while the display aperture is rotating.
Patent 9: Activation of the correction function on every 1st day of the month to assure a correction of the displays in the proper sequence.

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PATEK PHILIPPE MUSEUM

December 7, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

Opened in November 2001, the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva houses one of the world’s most important and prestigious horological collections. Some 2,500 watches, automata, precious objects and portrait miniatures on enamel invite the visitor on a fabulous voyage through five centuries of Genevan, Swiss and European horological art, as well as proposing a panoramic view of Patek Philippe’s production since 1839.

The recent introduction of a new museology makes the experience particularly vivid and engaging. This internationally renowned jewel in Geneva enables experts, devotees and the general public to make closer acquaintance with the exceptional cultural heritage that horology and the related arts represent.

The Patek Philippe Museum was born of a man’s passion for horology. That man is Philippe Stern, who was president of the Geneva manufacture at the time and is now its honorary president. Mr. Stern began assembling the collection well before thinking in terms of a museum. He concentrated at first on Patek Philippe watches, particularly the complicated models.

In 1980 he enlarged the scope of his search to take in all timepieces that had left their mark on watchmaking history since the sixteenth century, together with the greatest treasures of the enameller’s art, that sublime Genevan specialty. Little by little he built up one of today’s most extraordinary horological collections. But his aim in bringing together all these technical and aesthetic masterworks was not solely to satisfy his personal tastes.

He also intended to share his love of the watchmaking art and his joy of discovery with the public at large. And in doing so, to communicate the splendor of Geneva’s high-watchmaking tradition and ensure that this cultural heritage would be handed down to future generations. And so the idea of a museum began to take shape.

The Patek Philippe Museum is housed in a magnificent industrial building dating from 1919–1920 and restored with great restraint. Located at number 7 rue des Vieux-Grenadiers, in the Plainpalais district of Geneva, this building had been occupied by watchmakers and artisans in the related trades throughout its history.

Patek Philippe acquired it in 1975 to house Ateliers Réunis, a production unit making cases, bracelets and chains. In 1996 these activities moved to the new manufacturing premises in Plan-les-Ouates, leaving the building vacant. Between 1999 and 2001 the structure was fully restored, adding an additional floor, with strict respect for the original architecture.

In November 2001, the Patek Philippe Museum collections were at last unveiled, in surroundings worthy of their technical, artistic, aesthetic, historical and scientific value. It offers the chance to discover five centuries of horological heritage, as well as the significance for all the decorative arts traditionally associated with watchmaking – engraving, enameling, gemsetting, guilloché work etc.

The collections are divided into two complementary sections: on the second floor, a tour through the history of the portable mechanical timepiece, from its origins in the sixteenth century down to the early nineteenth century; on the first floor, a survey of Patek Philippe’s most beautiful creations, from 1839 to 2000. On the third floor, a library of more than 8,000 works on horology and related subjects underlines the museum’s educational role.

In the space of two decades, the Patek Philippe Museum has made its mark as one of Geneva’s finest museums and cultural highlights. Besides attracting visitors from all around the world, it also draws the inhabitants of the surrounding region, keen to know more about Geneva’s cultural heritage. The number of visitors testifies to its success, with more than 600,000 admissions in twenty years.

Along with the permanent collections, the museum has held temporary exhibitions showcasing particular treasures: “Timepieces for Royalty” in 2005, “The Mirror of Seduction: Prestigious Pairs of Chinese Watches” in 2010 and “Timepieces Signed Rousseau” in 2012. Public guided tours take place every Saturday in French and English or may be booked in advance in seven languages (French, English, German, Italian, Spanish, Chinese and Russian).

Themed tours are also on offer. The themes range from enameling or the magic of automata to a children’s tour or a discovery tour of the old watchmakers’ Geneva. These too may be reserved. And not forgetting the open-door weekends with their special attractions. Some of the objects also travel the world for Patek Philippe’s Grand Exhibitions, which are open to the public and devoted to the art of watchmaking.

Under the leadership of Philippe Stern and Peter Friess, director and curator of the museum since 2014, new acquisitions have continued to enrich the collections. The layouts of the two main collections have been reorganized, each now comprising twenty themed areas reflecting particular aspects of the watch’s history or the world of Patek Philippe.

To complement the wide choice of guided tours, the museum has also introduced an audio guide, accessed via a tablet. This device makes it possible both to provide all the required information on the exhibits and to illustrate the context in which they were created and worn, highlighting the close links between watchmaking and science, fashion, artistic movements and social change. The audio guide currently offers some twenty hours of accompaniment in English, French or German. Other languages will be available as from 2023.

Users may compose their own itinerary or choose a pre-set route, such as the one suggested by Philippe Stern himself. About 10,000 photographs complete this application, enabling the user to zoom in on details or examine features that may not be visible in the display cases. Modern, interactive and dynamic, this à la carte means of discovery gives visitors the freedom to tailor their visit to their particular interests.

The Patek Philippe Museum suggests a tour on four levels, according to an itinerary that begins on the ground floor and continues on the third, second and first floors.

(1) Ground floor: Collection of Workbenches and Antique Tools, and The Restoration Workshop

The ground floor displays a number of antique benches used by watchmakers and jewelers in bygone days, conjuring up the atmosphere of their workshops. A collection of tools and machines dating from the eighteenth to the mid-twentieth century illustrate each step in the manufacture of a timepiece and the range of procedures involved in its decoration.

To complete this tableau honoring tradition, a workshop with large windows, reminiscent of those once occupied by Geneva’s renowned cabinotiers (artisans employed by a cabinet, or small workshop), allows the visitor to admire the work of the restoration watchmakers, who specialize in restoring the watches on display.

This delicate task calls for outstanding dexterity as well as a thorough command of traditional know-how and technical skills; in order, perhaps, to recreate a part identically, using the same tools as the master watchmakers of the past.

(2) Third floor: The Patek Philippe Historical Archives, The Library and the Collection of Portraits and Snuffboxes in Miniature Painting on Enamel

The third floor recounts the history of Patek Philippe, with a selection from the historic archives representing great events in the life of the manufacture, including hand-written documents evoking its founders, Antoine Norbert de Patek and Jean Adrien Philippe.

Visitors will discover a faithful reconstruction of the office of Henri Stern, father of Philippe Stern and grandfather of the current president, Thierry Stern.

The third floor also houses an extraordinary library devoted to horology and related subjects, as well as a collection of portraits and other miniature paintings on enamel. Among some 8,000 books spanning the period from the sixteenth century to the present day are numerous rare and precious works, including writings by Galileo (1564–1642) and the inventor of the balance spring, Christiaan Huygens (1629–1695).

At the center of this library are four wall-mounted display cases presenting a priceless collection of 141 portrait miniatures on enamel, some bearing the signatures of the greatest masters. A table-mounted case displays sixteen snuffboxes decorated by means of the same ancestral technique and further embellished with pearls and guilloché motifs.

These wonders of artistry and skill date from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. They are sublime examples of a highly complex art; one that became a great Genevan specialty and contributed significantly to the city’s international renown.

They are joined in the library by several extraordinary horological and astronomical pieces, including a table clock made in about 1810 by the French master clockmaker Antide Janvier. The base is surmounted by three nude Atlas figures in patinated bronze supporting a celestial globe in engraved glass, within which an orrery reproduces the motions of the planets around the Sun.

(3) Second floor: The Antique Collection, From the Sixteenth to the Mid-Nineteenth Century

The second floor of the museum, with its 1,200 splendid exhibits, presents a panoramic view of the history of the portable watch and the decorative arts with which it was embellished.

This discovery tour takes in twenty themed areas each focusing on a specific aspect of the technical and aesthetic developments in horology.

The tour begins with the emergence of the first portable watches in the early sixteenth century. Among the examples on show is one of the oldest timepieces of this kind, a German drum-watch made in about 1530.

Up until about 1675, the watch was primarily a mark of prestige, an object conveying wealth and refinement. Hence the importance placed on its decoration, with lavish engraving, precious stones or cloisonné or champlevé enameling, and highly inventive case shapes. Those on show include square, oval and spherical watches and, more curiously, others in the shape of a cross or a human skull (a “memento mori”) or even a dolphin.

Visitors will also discover the rapid developments in watchmaking in Geneva as from the second half of the sixteenth century, fuelled by the arrival of the Huguenot (French Protestant) artisans fleeing persecution.

Around 1630 the first examples appeared of the use of miniature painting on enamel to adorn watch-cases and dials, initially in the Blois region of France, and then in other European countries. The museum presents an array of these exquisite masterworks, famed for the brilliance and intensity of their colors.

Depicting religious or mythological scenes, they were often inspired by the works of the great European artists. One of the museum’s treasures from this period is a French pendant watch entitled “The Theological Virtues”, remarkable for its case decoration combining champlevé, en relief enameling and camaïeu painting with diamonds. Geneva’s artisans also began to adopt the exacting art of miniature painting on enamel, which they subsequently raised to an unparalleled level of radiance and finesse.

In 1675, the invention of the balance spring by the Dutch physicist Christiaan Huygens ushered watchmaking into a new era. Formerly worn mainly for show, the timepiece now became a precision instrument with a rate accuracy of within one or two minutes per day. This technical breakthrough fuelled other scientific discoveries that contributed in their turn to progress in watchmaking. The Patek Philippe Museum testifies to the advance of this scientific horology with a fine collection of sophisticated timepieces demonstrating a dual objective –horological complication and accuracy.

The Enlightenment was also a time of great aesthetic creativity. Women’s watches acquired all the refinement of jewelry and were worn as delicate pendants or dangling from the waist on a fashionable chatelaine. They offered a wide variety of dials, some of them highly original. Geneva’s famous Fabrique, the collective term for all the workshops engaged in the creation of watches and jewelry, was renowned worldwide for the quality of its production. In particular it was known for its decorations in miniature painting on enamel, with the celebrated “Geneva flux” that lent an incomparable radiance.

Notable among the creations destined for export are the watches that were made for the Chinese market. They were usually created in pairs –sometimes even reversing the same decoration so that the subjects mirrored each other. One example is the pocket watches depicting “Venus Binding the Wings of Cupid” in miniature painting on enamel with pearls and turquoise, made in Geneva circa 1815. Other unusual pieces include the lavishly adorned watches produced for the Ottoman market, recognizable by their Turkish numerals and predominantly floral decorations.

As the epitome of mechanical virtuosity, the art of creating automata flourished during this period. The Patek Philippe Museum presents a veritable anthology on the subject, from timepieces presenting genuine tableaux vivants to singing birds trilling their melody while beating their wings or tiny figures moving their arms to indicate the hours and minutes, along with a wealth of musical mechanisms.

Technology was also advancing apace, as demonstrated by a watch from the English watchmaker Thomas Mudge, dated 1762 and considered the earliest perpetual calendar pocket watch (S-1033). Among the forerunners of the modern horologist the great Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) certainly stands out, and the museum owns several of his pioneering creations, including two superb “Sympathique” clocks.

Another distinguished figure is Jean-Antoine Lépine (1720–1814) whose invention of a new movement architecture meant that much thinner watches could be made. Other exhibits of note include the first self-winding pocket watches, whose mechanisms may now be viewed at the museum outside their respective cases.

As regards watches for women, eccentricity was all the rage at the end of the eighteenth century and watch design reflected that trend until about 1830. It was the heyday of the ornamental or “fantasy” watch, of which the museum possesses a wonderful collection. These timepieces take on astonishingly diverse shapes: musical instruments, animals, flowers, fruit etc. generally painted in brilliantly colored enamels.

Accompanying them is a vast range of small practical objects, such as penknives, snuffboxes and small cases for a lady’s personal items. Other intriguing objects include a “tact” watch dated 1800, enabling its owner to tell the time with her fingertips. The case is circled by twelve precious stones, whose initials form an acrostic saying “heures d’amour”.

The tour of this second floor ends with a close look at the development of striking watches (including the famous minute repeaters) and the birth of the chronograph – illustrated by several inking chronographs designed by Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec in the 1820s. And finally, the development of the winding system; particularly the successive attempts to free watches of the need for a key for winding and setting, prior to Jean Adrien Philippe’s major invention.

(4) First floor: The Patek Philippe Collection, 1839–2000

The first floor is devoted entirely to Patek Philippe’s creations from 1839 to 2000, with the addition of some commemorative watches issued later. About 1,150 timepieces – pocket watches, pendant watches, wristwatches, small table clocks – forming twenty themed areas, compose a portrait of one of the most creative watch manufactures.

In 1839, a Polish gentleman, Antoine Norbert de Patek, and his fellow countryman François Czapek founded a watchmaking firm in Geneva. At first they produced mainly for export to Poland, as evidenced by a number of watches adorned with religious or patriotic motifs.

In 1845, Patek decided to join forces with Jean Adrien Philippe, a young French watchmaker and inventor of the dual system for winding and setting watches by means of a crown; in other words, he invented the first keyless watches. This revolutionary patented system rapidly became the norm for all watch brands and remains so today.

The manufacture was soon renowned for the technical and aesthetic quality of its timepieces. A wide variety of pocket watches and pendant watches bear witness to its success, displaying all manner of refined decoration: engraving, enameling, gem-setting and more.

In 1851, Patek Philippe received a gold medal at the Great Exhibition in London. Queen Victoria acquired a blue pendant watch and also admired another model, adorned with enamel and diamonds. Both are now on display in the museum.

Numerous members of royal families and the aristocracy followed the young queen’s example, acquiring watches from the manufacture. These pieces were sometimes personalized with a monogram or royal coat of arms, a famous example being the minute-repeating clock-watch of 1910 known as the “Duke of Regla”.

Accuracy was a cornerstone of Patek Philippe’s approach from the start. This quest is illustrated by a selection of the countless specially designed watches and movements – some of them never commercialized – that dominated the observatory chronometer competitions from 1873 to 1968. And not forgetting the numerous awards and medals won by the manufacture and now exhibited on the third floor of the museum.

From its earliest days, Patek Philippe has been recognized for its supreme mastery of complications: all the functions or indications other than the hour, minutes and seconds.

Several dedicated areas offer ample proof, each showcasing a particularly emblematic type of watch: the perpetual calendar, including the earliest known perpetual calendar wristwatch, built by Patek Philippe in 1925; the travel watches, with the dual-time-zone models and the famous World Time watches; and the striking watches, with numerous minute repeaters and the earliest Patek Philippe striking wristwatch, a five-minute repeater created in 1916 for feminine wrists.

They are joined by the chronographs, notably the first wristwatch endowed with a split-seconds chronograph (circa 1923), along with the tourbillons, the astronomical watches and the equations of time, and all the Grand Complications uniting several of these functions in a single timepiece.

To accompany these technical feats, Patek Philippe has always excelled by the creativity of its designs. The museum offers a stunning panorama of the aesthetic developments in the wristwatch from the earliest models in the “Officer” style, with an accent on art nouveau and art deco (the latter a golden age for the manufacture) represented by pieces in an astonishing range of shapes. Watches for women also feature prominently, from the first Swiss wristwatch, made by Patek Philippe for a countess in 1868, to the highly imaginative and brightly colored jewelry watches of the 1970s.

During their tour, visitors will discover several other fascinating aspects of Patek Philippe’s history and production. A large display case recalls the era of Gondolo & Labouriau, a Brazilian distributor in Rio de Janeiro for whom the manufacture produced a huge range of pocket watches and wristwatches from 1872 to 1936.

The great American collectors of the early twentieth century are also well represented, notably by the numerous pieces made for James Ward Packard (P-704) and Henry Graves Jr.

Patek Philippe’s passion for the rare handcrafts is illustrated by an array of watches and table clocks decorated with cloisonné enamel or miniature painting on enamel.

A feature recently introduced enables the visitor to see the original models of the main watch families in the current product range, namely the Calatrava (1932), the Golden Ellipse (1968), the Nautilus (1976), the Aquanaut (1997) and the Twenty~4 ladies’ watch (1999).

The last section shines the spotlight on the flagship models that Patek Philippe unveiled in the late twentieth and the early twenty-first century to mark important dates, such as the famous Calibre 89 (33 complications) launched in 1989 for the manufacture’s 150th anniversary and recognized for more than twenty-five years as the world’s most complicated portable timepiece; and the Star Caliber 2000 (21 complications), created to welcome the new millennium.

This amazing voyage ends with the Grandmaster Chime, the most complicated Patek Philippe wristwatch (20 complications, including 5 striking modes), launched as a limited edition in 2014 for the manufacture’s 175th anniversary and now in the current collection.

Contact details

Patek Philippe Museum
Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 7
1205 Geneva
http://www.patekmuseum.com
http://www.patek.com/museum

Opening hours

Tuesday-Friday: 2 pm – 6 pm
Saturday: 10 am – 6 pm
Closed Sunday, Monday and public holidays

Source: Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Automatic Reference 5268/200R-001

October 16, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

Patek Philippe presents a new Aquanaut Luce automatic watch with a larger diameter case and a new integrated matt-white strap.

The Aquanaut Luce with a self-winding mechanical movement was launched in 2010 by a rose-gold model with a chocolate brown dial and strap (5068R-001), joined in 2013 by a version in white (5068R-010). The new model released in 2021 features a 38.8 mm diameter (up from the previous 35.6 mm) case on an integrated strap that continues the visual harmony of the design.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Automatic Reference 5268/200R-001 — Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

The rose-gold case, water-resistant to 120 m, contrasts the polished finish on its flat surfaces with a satin-brushed finish on the flanks. The emblematic rounded octagonal bezel has a polished beveled edge and sparkles with 48 Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (~1.11 ct) set with textbook precision.

A dial in matt white with the embossed Aquanaut motif forms a luxurious backdrop to rose-gold applied Arabic numerals and rose-gold baton-style hour and minute hands with a luminescent coating. A slender rose-gilt sweep-seconds hand completes the time display, while the date appears in an aperture at 3 o’clock.

This sporty, elegant timepiece is powered by the caliber 26-330 S C self-winding movement. Introduced in 2019, this caliber is endowed with a number of technical innovations and optimizations (two of which are patented) relating particularly to the winding system.

The presence of a stop-seconds device, which stops the balance when the crown is pulled out, enables the user to set the time to the second. A sapphire-crystal back reveals the movement’s architecture and flawless hand-finish.

The watch is worn on an integrated matt-white strap made of an ultra-resistant composite material with a patented fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches. The new Aquanaut Luce Reference 5268/200R-001 replaces the two previous 5068 references in the collection.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce automatic in rose gold, Reference 5268/200R-001

Movement
Caliber 26-330 S C
Self-winding mechanical movement with sweep seconds and with date in an aperture
Diameter: 27 mm
Height: 3.3 mm
Number of parts: 212
Number of jewels: 30
Power reserve: Min. 35 hours / max. 45 hours
Winding rotor: Central rotor in 21K gold, unidirectional winding
Frequency: 28 800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance: Gyromax®
Balance spring: Spiromax® (in Silinvar®)
Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Displays
By hands: hours, minutes and sweep seconds
By aperture: date at 3 o’clock

Crown functions
Three-positions crown:
• Unscrewed: manual winding
• Pulled out half way: correcting the date
• Pulled out all the way: setting the time
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Case
18K rose gold
Bezel set with 48 brilliant-cut Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (~1.11 ct)
Screw-down crown
Water-resistant to 120 m (12 bars)
Case dimensions: Diameter (10–4 o’clock): 38.8 mm
Width (9 –3 o’clock with crown): 40.95 mm
Length (across lugs): 45.4 mm
Height: 8.5 mm
Width between lugs: 19.03 mm

Dial
Brass with Aquanaut pattern embossed and varnished in matt white
Applied Arabic numerals in 18K rose gold
Baton-style hour and minute hands in 18K rose gold with Superluminova® luminescent coating
Arrow-style seconds hand with counterpoise in Pfinodal, gilded with rose gold

Strap
Composite material ultra-resistant to water, ultraviolet radiation and wear, with raised checkerboard pattern in matt white
Patented fold-over clasp in 18K rose gold, secured by four independent catches

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Quartz in Steel, References 5267/200A-001, 5267/200A-010 and 5267/200A-011

October 16, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

Aquanaut Luce, the modern, sporty chic watch collection from Patek Philippe, has enjoyed outstanding success with women since its induction. The Geneva manufacture is now revisiting the original design of 2004 in a new generation of quartz-powered models in steel.

Since its launch in 2004, the ladies’ quartz-driven Aquanaut Luce in steel Reference 5067 has appeared in a range of colors (including black, safari brown, pearly white and blue-gray).

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Quartz in Steel, Reference 5267/200A-001 — Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

Patek Philippe is giving fresh allure to this flagship model of modern sporty chic by endowing it with an enlarged diameter of 38.8 mm (previously 35.6 mm) and an integrated strap whose contours follow the curvature of the case and the lugs. From now on a new, larger case and an integrated strap will equip every Aquanaut Luce (except the Haute Joaillerie models).

The new Aquanaut Luce Reference 5267/200A comes with matching dial and strap in a choice of three colors: black (5267/200A-001), matt white (5267/200A-010) and khaki green (5267/200A-011).

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Quartz in Steel, Reference 5267/200A-011 — Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

This new shade of khaki green is identical to the color introduced on the men’s Aquanaut Reference 5168G-010 in 2019 and seen this year on the new Aquanaut Chronograph Reference 5968G-010. It is also a nod to the original model of 2004, “Adventurous Khaki”, a slightly different shade.

The dials are remarkable for their blend of sportiness and refinement. Their embossed Aquanaut decoration throws into relief the white-gold applied Arabic numerals and the large white-gold baton-style hands with their luminescent coating. On the model with a matt-white dial (5267/200A-010) black numerals and a date printed in white on a black ground in the aperture at 3 o’clock strengthen the legibility. The steel case is adorned with a polished finish on the flat surfaces and a satin-brushed finish on the flanks.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Quartz in Steel, Reference 5267/200A-010 — Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

Water-resistant to 120 m, notably thanks to its screw-down crown, it houses a Patek Philippe caliber E 23-250 S C quartz movement finished with the same meticulous care as the manufacture’s mechanical movements. The bezel has polished beveled edges and is lit by a circle of 48 round-cut Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (~1.11 ct).

The integrated strap made of an ultra-resistant composite material features a patented fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches. The new Aquanaut Luce References 5267/200A replace all the previous Reference 5067 models.

Technical details

Model: Aquanaut Luce quartz in steel

References
5267/200A-001: with black dial
5267/200A-010: with matt white dial
5267/200A-011: with khaki green dial

Movement
Caliber E 23-250 S C quartz with sweep seconds and date in an aperture
Diameter: 23.9 mm
Height: 2.5 mm
Number of parts: 80
Number of jewels: 8
Quartz frequency: 32 768 Hz
Power source: Silver oxide battery 1.55 V
Battery life: Approximately 3 years

Displays
By hands: hours, minutes and sweep seconds
By aperture: date at 3 o’clock

Crown functions
Three-positions crown:
•Pushed in: normal operation
• Unscrewed and pulled out half way: correcting the date
• Unscrewed and pulled out all the way: stopping the movement and setting the time

Case
Steel
Bezel set with 48 brilliant-cut Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (~1.11 ct)
Screw-down crown
Water-resistant to 120 m (12 bars)

Case dimensions
Diameter (10–4 o’clock): 38.8 mm
Width (9–3 o’clock with crown): 40.95 mm
Length (across lugs): 45.4 mm
Height: 7.9 mm
Width between lugs: 19.03 mm

Dial
Brass, with Aquanaut motif embossed and varnished in black (5267/200A-001), matt white (5267/200A-010) or khaki green (5267/200A-011)
Applied Arabic numerals in 18K white gold (blackened 18K white gold on the matt-white version)
Baton-style hour and minute hands in 18K white gold with Superluminova® luminescent coating
Bronze arrow-style seconds hand with counterpoise

Strap
Composite material ultra-resistant to water, ultraviolet radiation and wear, with checkerboard pattern matching that of the dial
Patented fold-over clasp in steel, secured by four independent catches

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Reference 5269/200R-001

October 16, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

To create this Aquanaut Luce traveller’s watch for women, Patek Philippe drew inspiration from the manufacture’s ingenious Travel Time dual-time-zone mechanism.

This exclusive system is already a feature of the men’s Aquanaut Reference 5164, where two push-pieces on the left flank of the case set the local time. But to retain all the elegance and finesse that women love in the Aquanaut Luce, the manufacture reinterpreted this useful, user-friendly function to incorporate two innovations: a new quartz movement with a dual-time-zone function, caliber E 23-250 S FUS 24H, and a discreet, practical setting system via the winding crown.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Reference 5269/200R-001 — Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

This device required that the electronic movement be fitted with a dual time-zone mechanism similar to those that equip all Patek Philippe’s World Time and Travel Time watches, but controlled here by the clutch-pinion that activates hand-setting, rather than by pushers. The new quartz caliber is finished with same meticulous care as the manufacture’s mechanical movements.

The new Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Reference 5269/200R has two central hour hands – a skeletonized hand for home time and a solid hand for local time. When its owner changes time zones, the hour hand for local time may be set forwards or backwards by increments of one hour using the crown pulled out to the intermediate position, without this affecting the rate accuracy of the movement.

During the time spent abroad, the skeletonized hand will continue to display home time, coupled with the day/night indicator at 6 o’clock. The Travel Time’s dual-time-zone system can also be used to display the time in another longitude.

When the watch’s owner remains at home or no longer needs a second time zone, the two hour hands can be superposed to become a single hand, using the winding crown. In this way, the Aquanaut Luce Travel Time offers two watches in one: a casually elegant model for all occasions, transformable in an instant into a dual-time-zone watch for those who travel and communicate far and wide.

The rose-gold 38.8 mm case, equipped with a non-screw-down crown (to make using the Travel Time function practical and unobtrusive) is water-resistant to 60 m. Its contrasting polished and satin-brushed finishes complement a matt-white dial and a matching strap. The Aquanaut Luce’s chic, sporty personality gains extra sparkle from a bezel edged with a polished bevel and set with 48 Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (~1.11 ct).

The dial presents an embossed Aquanaut motif beneath rose-gold applied numerals and rose-gold baton-style hands, the solid hands with a luminescent coating. The integrated white composite-material strap has a patented fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches.

Technical details

Model: Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Reference 5269/200R-001

Movement
Caliber E 23-250 S FUS 24H quartz movement with sweep seconds, dual time zones (local time and home time) and a day/night indicator linked to home time
Diameter: 23.9 mm
Height: 2.95 mm
Number of parts: 96
Number of jewels: 9
Quartz frequency: 32 768 Hz
Power source: Silver oxide battery 1.55 V
Battery life: Approximately 3 years

Displays
By hands: local time (solid hand), home time (skeletonized hand), minutes and sweep seconds
By aperture: day/night indicator at 6 o’clock

Crown functions
Three-positions crown:
• Pushed in: normal operation
• Pulled out half way: correcting the local time by increments of one hour backwards or forwards
• Pulled out all the way: stopping the movement and setting the time

Case
18K rose gold
Bezel set with 48 brilliant-cut Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (~1.11 ct)
Water-resistant to 60 m (6 bars)
Diameter (10–4 o’clock): 38.8 mm
Width (9–3 o’clock with crown): 40.9 mm
Length (across lugs): 45.4 mm
Height: 8.77 mm
Width between lugs: 19.03 mm

Dial
Brass, with Aquanaut motif embossed and varnished in matt white
Applied Arabic numerals in 18K rose gold
Baton-style local hour hand and minute hand in 18K rose gold with Superluminova® luminescent coating
Skeletonized baton-style home hour hand in 18K rose gold
Arrow-style seconds hand with counterpoise in Pfinodal, gilded with rose gold

Strap
Composite material ultra-resistant to water, ultraviolet radiation and wear, with raised checkerboard pattern in matt white
Patented fold-over clasp in 18K rose-gold, secured by four independent catches

Patek Philippe Ref. 7118/1450G Nautilus Haute Joaillerie

October 15, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

This year, Patek Philippe expanded the iconic Nautilus collection by unveiling a high jewellery version in white fold (the Ref. 7118/1450R-001). This sparkling wristwatch belongs to the brand’s “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” collection.

The new Ref. 7118/1450G Nautilus Haute Joaillerie watch is adorned with 2553 flawless Top Wesselton brilliant-cut diamonds (~12.69 ct), using the snow setting technique.

Patek Philippe Ref. 7118/1450G Nautilus Haute Joaillerie — Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

To assure perfect legibility, the dial features luminous Alpha hour and minute hands in blackened white gold, and the applied Arabic numerals made of the same precious metal also have a luminous coating.

This timepiece is equipped with the self-winding caliber 324 S movement. Its 21K gold rotor and elaborate finishing can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back.

The 18K white-gold bracelet combines elegance with snug comfort. The watch features a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp that is secured with four independent catches. In the current Patek Philippe collection, the new Ref. 7118/1450G-001 Nautilus Haute Joaillerie in white gold joins the Ref. 7118/1450R-001 in rose gold.

Technical details

Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement
Caliber 324 S
Sweep seconds
Diameter: 27 mm
Height: 3.30 mm
Parts: 182
Jewels: 29
Power reserve: min. 45 hours
Central rotor in 21K gold, unidirectional winding
Balance: Gyromax®
Semi-oscillation/hour: 28 800 (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Dial
Paved with diamonds, blackened gold applied hour markers and numerals with luminescent coating
18K gold dial plate

Case
White gold, paved with diamonds
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30m
Diameter (10 – 4 o’clock): 35.2 mm
Height: 8.65 mm

Bracelet
White gold bracelet, paved with diamonds
Diamond-set Nautilus fold-over clasp

Gem-setting
286 diamonds: ~0.92 ct. (dial)
518 diamonds: ~2.52 cts. (case)
20 diamonds: ~0.03 ct. (crown)
1,729 diamonds: ~9.22 cts. (bracelet)
Total of 2,553 diamonds: ~12.69 cts

About Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 Collection

On the occasion of the “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibition in June 2021, Patek Philippe launched six exceptional wristwatches featuring artistic decorations such as manual engraving, grand feu cloisonné enamel, grand feu champlevé enamel, grand feu flinqué enamel, manual guilloching and gemsetting.

Models

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Patek Philippe Ref. 5738/51G-001 Golden Ellipse Haut Artisanat

October 15, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

In 2018, on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the Golden Ellipse collection, Patek Philippe presented a limited edition of 100 sets consisting of a platinum timepiece and matching cufflinks. Now, the Geneva manufacture is presenting a new artistic interpretation of this exceptional watch.

Released during the “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibition, the Golden Ellipse Haut Artisanat features a polished white-gold case and subtly reworked dial decor details.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5738/51G-001 Golden Ellipse Haut Artisanat — Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

First, the dial plate in 18K gold is pieced to create the recesses that will be filled with black grand feu enamel (champlevé enamel). The zones that are raised are then manually engraved with vegetal or floral motifs. In this manner, Patek Philippe combines two of the most venerable working methods (hand engraving and enamel) used for decorating timepieces. The decor, with its volutes and arabesques ideally complements the inimitable case shape of the Golden Ellipse.

It features two very slender “cheveu”-style hands in white gold. The crown is topped with an onyx cabochon. The self-winding caliber 240 movement ticks beneath the artistically finished dial. It is powered by an off-center recessed minirotor in 22K gold; thanks to its ultra-thin design, it will fit a very elegant case (height: 6.58 mm).

The timeless design of the watch is emphasized by a hand-stitched shiny black alligator leather strap with square scales. Its prong buckle echoes the shape of the case.

The other existing timepieces in the current Golden Ellipse collection are the Ref. 5738P-001 in platinum with a blue sunburst dial and the Ref. 5738R-001 in rose gold with an ebony black sunburst dial.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Haut Artisanat Watch, Ref. 5738/51G-001

Movement
Ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement
Caliber 240
Diameter: 27.5 mm
Height: 2.53 mm
Parts: 161
Bridges: 6
Jewels: 27
Power reserve: Min. 48 hours
22K gold off-center mini-rotor
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Patent: CH 595 653

Dial
Hand-engraved and black enamelled
18K gold dial plate

Case
White gold
Crown set with an onyx cabochon
Solid case back
Humidity- and dust-protected only (not water-resistant)
Dimensions: 34.5 x 39.5 mm
Height: 6.58 mm

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny black
Prong buckle

About Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 Collection

Models

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Patek Philippe Ref. 5374G-001 Minute Repeater with a Perpetual Calendar

October 15, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer1 Comment

Unveiled during the Patek Philippe “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibition, this grand complication watch with minute repeater and perpetual calendar features a white-gold case with a blue grand feu enamel dial. This new model replaces the Ref. 5374P-001 in platinum with a black grand feu enamel dial.

The Ref. 5374 with a minute repeater and a perpetual calendar was introduced in 2016 in a platinum version with a black grand feu enamel dial. Now, Patek Philippe is offering a new edition in white gold with a blue grand feu enamel dial.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5374G-001 Minute Repeater with a Perpetual Calendar — Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

The case shape shows the subtle and harmonious interplay of rounds and cambers. The bezel has a concave profile. The same finesse is encountered in the manually satin-finished recesses in the case flank. They contrast beautifully against the polished case segments and against the cabochons that decorate the ends of the lugs.

The blue grand feu enamel dial is high-gloss finished, and features applied white-gold Breguet numerals. The displays of the perpetual calendar – day, date, month, and leap year cycle – are placed on slightly enlarged subsidiary dials, complemented with a 24-hour display. The leaf-shaped hands in white gold are filled with a luminous coating for excellent legibility. The moon-phase aperture is executed with the champlevé technique and framed in white gold.

This grand complication timepiece houses the self-winding caliber R 27 Q. The minute repeater mechanism strikes on two cathedral gongs, and their extended length of nearly twice the circumference of the movement produces a full, reverberant sound.

The shiny dusk blue alligator strap is secured with a white-gold fold-over clasp. The scope of delivery includes a sapphire-crystal case back and an interchangeable solid back.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Minute Repeater with a Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 5374G-001

Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement
Caliber R 27 Q
Diameter: 28 mm
Height: 6.9 mm
Parts: 467
Bridges: 12
Jewels: 39
Power reserve: min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
Minirotor in 22K gold, unidirectional winding
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Functions
Minute repeater with “cathedral” gongs
Perpetual calendar
Day, date, month, leap year and 24-hour indication by hands
Moon phases

Dial
Blue enamel, gold applied Breguet numerals
18K gold dial plate

Case
White gold
Interchangeable full back and sapphire-crystal case back
Case is humidity and dust protected only (not water resistant)
Case diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.2 mm

Strap
Alligator leather with scare scales, hand-stitched, shiny dusk blue
Fold-over clasp

About Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 Collection

Models

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Patek Philippe Ref. 5304/301R-001 Minute Repeater with a Retrograde Perpetual Calendar

October 15, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer2 Comments

Adorned with 80 baguette diamonds, this new rose-gold version of the Patek Philippe Minute Repeater and Retrograde Perpetual Calendar watch belongs to the Geneva Maison’s “Rare Handcrafts” series. This new grand complication watch features a transparent sapphire crystal dial, allowing the wearer to admire the movement from the front side of the watch.

The first Patek Philippe grand complication with a transparent sapphire-crystal dial was launched as the Ref. 5104 in 2006; it had a platinum case with rose-gold intarsias. From 2014 to 2018, it was followed by the Ref. 5304 in rose gold with white-gold intarsias.

Now, Patek Philippe has released a new haute joaillerie version in rose gold. Its bezel, lugs, and fold-over clasp sparkle with the fire of 80 flawless Top Wesselton baguette diamonds (~6.22 ct).

Patek Philippe Ref. 5304-301R-001 Minute Repeater with a Retrograde Perpetual Calendar — Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

For this timepiece, Patek Philippe developed an ingenious system for displaying the day, month, and leap year cycle with transparent sapphire-crystal disks in which the respective displays stand out in white against the black background of the small apertures beneath them. To attach the extremely thin sapphire-crystal disks to their minuscule steel arbors, it was necessary to develop an exclusive, patented assembly process.

The pierced leaf-shaped hands in black-lacquered white gold also enhance the view of the movement and its steel parts with beveled and polished edges that stand out beautifully against the rose gilt plates decorated with perlage. The flyback date display features a hand with a crescent moon tip that marks the numerals on a scale at the outermost edge of the dial. The perpetual calendar is complemented with a moon-phase display at 6 o’clock and a subsidiary seconds dial.

To further refine the appeal of this timepiece, Patek Philippe integrated delicate white-gold inlays with engraved leaf motifs in the case flanks and the repeater slide.

The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the magnificent views of the self-winding caliber R 27 PS QR LU movement, especially the minute repeater mechanism with two gongs or the centrifugal governor beneath the pierced Calatrava cross motif. The recessed off-center minirotor in rose gold is decorated with a leaf motif and rhodiumed sinks.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Minute Repeater with a Retrograde Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 5304/301R-001

Movement
Caliber R 27 PS QR LU
Self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter: 28 mm
Height: 7.23 mm
Parts: 517
Bridges: 12
Jewels: 41
Power reserve: min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
22K gold off-center mini-rotor
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Functions
Minute repeater with classic gongs
Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand
Day, month and leap year in apertures
Moon phases by hand
Small seconds

Dial
Transparent sapphire, date and minute markers printed in white with golden powdered dots

Case
Rose gold
Sapphire crystal case back
Humidity- and dust-protected only (not water-resistant)
Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 13.3 mm
Gem-setting: 58 baguette diamonds: ~5.25 cts. (bezel and lugs). 22 baguette diamonds: ~0.97 ct. (clasp). Total of 80 baguette diamonds: ~6.22 cts.

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny black
Diamond-set fold-over clasp

About Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 Collection

Models

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Patek Philippe Ref. 6002R-001 Sky Moon Tourbillon Haut Artisanat

October 15, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer2 Comments

On the occasion of the “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibition, Patek Philippe released a new iteration of its Ref. 6002R-001 Sky Moon Tourbillon watch featuring a hand-engraved rose-gold case with a brown dial in grand feu champlevé and cloisonné enamel

Debuted in 2001, the Ref. 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon is Patek Philippe’s second most complicated wristwatch. It is one of the grand complications most coveted by collectors and connoisseurs.

From 2013 to 2016, this double-face wristwatch was available in a rare handcrafts version with a white-gold case and a blue enamel dial (reference 6002G-001). It was followed in 2016 by a new version with a black enamel dial (reference 6002G-010).

Patek Philippe Ref. 6002R-001 Sky Moon Tourbillon Haut Artisanat — Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

The new iteration released during “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” combines the warm shimmer of rose gold with brown grand feu enamel. The periphery of the dial, the moon-phase aperture, and the moon of the rotating disc are executed in champlevé enamel. With this technique, the base metal must first be precisely milled out so that individual elements such as the minute scale remain relieved.

Then, the recesses are manually filled with enamel compound. The center of the dial features a decor in grand feu cloisonné enamel that was created with the help of thin flat gold wire. The case, the crowns, the repeater slide, and the fold-over clasp are manually engraved with a motif of volutes and arabesques on all sides. The master engraver invests more than 100 hours of work and considerable patience to complete the process to the highest standards.

The Sky Moon Tourbillon combines 12 fascinating complications, including a tourbillon and a minute repeater that strikes on cathedral gongs. The front dial shows a perpetual calendar with a retrograde date, a moon-phase display and the leap year cycle.

The other side shows a celestial chart on which the apparent motion of the moon and the stars can be viewed from the northern hemisphere. To orchestrate the grand ballet of the celestial bodies, Patek Philippe developed a system of three superposed discs that move in different, precisely calculated trajectories.

The new Ref. 6002R-001 Sky Moon Tourbillon is delivered with hand-engraved cufflinks in rose gold. It replaces the Ref. 6002G-010 in white gold with a black grand feu enamel dial.

Technical details

Movement
Mechanical manually wound movement
Caliber R TO 27 QR SID LU CL
Third wheel in gold
Flywheel
Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 12.61 mm
Parts: 705
Bridges: 24
Jewels: 55
Power reserve: min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Spiral: Breguet
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Functions
Minute repeater with “cathedral” gongs
Tourbillon
Perpetual Calendar

Display
Front side: Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand. Day, month, leap year in apertures. Hours and minutes of mean solar time. Moon phases
Reverse side: sidereal time, sky chart, phases and orbit of the moon.

Dial
Grand Feu champlevé and cloisonné brown enamel, gold applied Roman numerals
18K gold dial plate

Case
Rose gold
Sapphire-crystal case back
Humidity-and dust-protected only (not water-resistant)
Case diameter: 44 mm. Height: 17.35 mm.

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, chestnut patinated
Hand-engraved fold-over clasp

About Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 Collection

Models

Patek Philippe Self-winding World Time Flyback Chronograph Reference 5930P-001

October 15, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

Patek Philippe presents a new World Time Flyback Chronograph model featuring a platinum case, green dial and a matching alligator strap.

Inspired by a one-of-a-kind model from 1940, Reference 5930 combines two functions: a self-winding flyback chronograph and World Time – an iconic complication in the history and collections of the Manufacture. This model was launched in 2016 in a white gold version with a blue dial and matching strap.

In the new platinum version, the names of the cities are printed in green on the corresponding disk. The green dial center highlights a circular hand-guilloched circular pattern. This color is picked up at 6 o’clock on the snailed 30-minute counter. The applied hour-markers and the faceted Dauphine-type hands in white gold are highlighted by a luminescent coating ensuring good legibility in all circumstances.

The entirely hand-polished platinum case is set with a diamond at 6 o’clock. It features the “wing-type” lugs typical of 1940s-1950s World Time watches.

As caliber CH 28-520 HU is equipped with a column wheel and the modern disk-type vertical clutch, the central chronograph hand can also be used as a permanent (running) seconds display – thus ensuring minimal wear and tear and without affecting the movement accuracy or power reserve.

The 4 o’clock pusher enables instant restarting of a timing operation when the central hand is already performing an operation (“flyback” function) or is being used as a permanent (running) seconds display.

The World Time function simultaneously displays the time in 24 time zones. When changing time zones, an exclusive patented mechanism enables correction of all displays by pressing the 10 o’clock pusher, without affecting the accuracy of the movement.

The new Reference 5930P-001 is worn on a shiny bottle green alligator strap with a platinum fold-over clasp.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Self-winding World Time Flyback Chronograph Reference 5930P-001

Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement
Caliber CH 28‑520 HU
Diameter: 33 mm
Height: 7.97 mm
Parts: 343
Jewels: 38
Power-reserve: min. 50 hours – max. 55 hours
Winding rotor: 21K gold central rotor
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Functions
Flyback chronograph
Central chronograph hand and 30-minute counter
World Time
24-hour and day/night indication for the 24 time zones

Dial
Green, hand-guilloched, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating

Case
Platinum
Sapphire-crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30m
Case diameter: 39.5 mm
Height: 12.86 mm

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny bottle green
Fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe Self-winding Flyback Chronograph with Annual Calendar, Reference 5905/1A-001 (in steel with an integrated bracelet and a sunburst green dial)

October 15, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

Incorporating a self-winding flyback chronograph and a patented annual calendar, Patek Philippe Reference 5905 belongs to the brand’s Complications family.

Launched as a platinum model in 2015, then in rose gold in 2019, Reference 5905 is now available for first time in stainless steel. Fitted with a three-link integrated bracelet, it boasts an elegant and contemporary-styled sunburst olive green dial.

Patek Philippe Self-winding Flyback Chronograph with Annual Calendar, Reference 5905/1A-001 (in steel with an integrated bracelet and a sunburst green dial) — Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

The dial ensures excellent legibility for the additional functions, with a central chronograph hand, a large 60-minute subdial at 6 o’clock and three day/date/month apertures arranged in an arc for instant reading of the Annual Calendar indications. There is also a discreet day/night indicator at 6 o’clock that is useful for ensuring accurate date setting.

The caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H remains faithful to the traditional column wheel for the transmission of chronograph commands. However, instead of a toothed-wheel horizontal clutch, it has a vertical disk-type clutch.

This modern technical solution causes almost no wear and tear, and the central chronograph seconds hand can also be used as a permanent (running) seconds display. The patented Annual Calendar automatically takes account of 30- and 31-day months, requiring only one correction per year, on March 1st. This movement is visible through the transparent sapphire caseback.

The polished steel case features a sophisticated construction with a concave bezel and recessed sides. The integrated steel bracelet is inspired by that of the Aquanaut Reference 5167/1A with its contrasting finishes (polished outer links and satin-finish inner links), while subtly distinguished from it by the underside of the bracelet and the edges which are polished, in line with the case. It is equipped with a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches.

The new Patek Philippe 5905/1A-001 is joining existing references 5905P-001 in platinum with a blue dial and 5905R-001 in rose gold with brown dial.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Self-winding Flyback Chronograph with Annual Calendar, Reference 5905/1A-001 (in steel with an integrated bracelet and a sunburst green dial)

Movement
Caliber CH 28‑520 QA 24H
Self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter: 33 mm
Height: 7.68 mm
Parts: 402
Jewels: 37
Power reserve: min. 45 hours – max. 55 hours
Winding rotor: 21K gold central rotor
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Functions
Flyback Chronograph
Central chronograph hand and 60-minute counter
Annual Calendar
Day, date, month and day/night indication displayed in apertures

Dial
Olive green sunburst, gold applied hour markers

Case
Steel case
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30m
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 14.13 mm

Bracelet
Integrated Steel bracelet with fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011: Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar with Rose Gold Case and Slate Gray Dial

October 15, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

Patek Philippe has expanded the Grand Complications family by launching a new version of Reference 5204 Split-Seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar watch.

This multi-complication mechanical timepiece has been available since 2016 in two rose gold versions, one with a silvered opaline dial and chocolate brown alligator strap (reference 5204R-001), the other with an opaline ebony black dial and rose gold Goutte (droplet) bracelet – Reference 5204/1R.

Patek Philippe now presents a new variation with a rose gold case and a matching slate gray dial and strap.

Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011: Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar with Rose Gold Case and Slate Gray Dial — Image Credit: PATEK PHILIPPE SA

The entirely hand-polished and sophisticatedly styled rose gold case is equipped with a concave bezel and two-tier lugs.

Despite the complexity of the movement, the indications on the “sunburst” dial stand out for their perfect legibility. The day and month are displayed in two in-line apertures at 12 o’clock. The date hand at 6 o’clock incorporates the moon-phase aperture. Small seconds and the instantaneous 30-minute counter appear on two subdials at 9 and 3 o’clock.

Two small round apertures display the leap-year cycle between 4 and 5 o’clock and the day/night indication between 7 and 8 o’clock – functions enabling accurate adjustment of the calendar. Whether by day or night, reading the time is facilitated by the applied hour-markers and Dauphine-type hands in rose gold, all with luminescent coating.

The transparent sapphire caseback offers the view the CHR 29-535 PS Q Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar Caliber. First introduced in 2012 on Reference 5204P-001, this meticulously finished manual-winding movement incorporates seven patented innovations, including six for the chronograph and one for the split-seconds mechanism.

The new Reference 5204R-011 is worn on a shiny slate gray calf leather strap with an embossed alligator pattern and a rose gold fold-over clasp. Available with interchangeable sapphire crystal and solid case-backs, it is joining the two existing versions in rose gold.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011: Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar with Rose Gold Case and Slate Gray Dial

Case
18K rose gold case
Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 14.3 mm
Interchangeable solid and sapphire crystal case backs
Water-resistant to 30m

Movement
Manually wound mechanical movement. Caliber CHR 29‑535 PS Q
Diameter: 32 mm
Height: 8.7 mm
Number of parts: 496
Bridges: 12
Jewels: 34
Power reserve with the chronograph disengaged: min. 55 hours – max. 65 hours
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Breguet
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Functions
Split-Seconds chronograph
Instantaneous 30-minute counter
Perpetual calendar
Day, month, leap year and day/night indication displayed in apertures
Date indicated by hand
Moon phases
Small seconds

Dial
Slate gray sunburst, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating
18K gold dial plate

Strap
Calfskin, embossed alligator pattern, hand-stitched, shiny gray
Fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock, Unique Piece for Only Watch 2021

July 4, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

To support the Only Watch 2021 Charity Auction, Patek Philippe presents a complicated desk clock, Ref. 27001M-001 is inspired by a desk clock delivered to James Ward Packard in 1923 and now preserved in the Patek Philippe Museum.

The original model is now preserved in the Patek Philippe Museum. This unique piece is equipped with the new caliber 86-135 PEND IRM Q SE. It features a perpetual calendar, moon phases, week-number display and power-reserve indication (31 days). It is adjusted to a precision rate of -1/+1 second per day.

This exceptional Grande Complication is housed in a sterling silver cabinet with vermeil decorative elements and American walnut inlays.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock, Unique Piece for Only Watch 2021

Reference
27001M-001

Case
Sterling silver, vermeil decorative elements, American walnut inlays.
Dimensions: 164.6 x 125 x 76.3mm

Dial
Rose-gilt opaline dial

Movement
Calibre 86-135 PEND IRM Q SE

Patek Philippe Ref. 7040/250G-001 Rare Handcrafts Minute Repeater for Ladies

June 21, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

Patek Philippe presents a new feminine minute repeater with a blue grand feu flinqué enamel dial and a bezel with a Flamme® diamond setting.

Available from 2011 to 2017, the Ref. 7000R-001 Ladies First Minute Repeater in rose gold with a cream-colored dial is making way for a new, highly refined model in white gold. It has a slightly larger diameter, a blue grand feu flinqué enamel dial and a diamond-set bezel. Its contemporary yet timeless looks grace a case in the typical officer’s style with straight lugs and screwed bars.

The gold dial plate is fully guilloched by hand with a gently undulated sunburst motif inspired by the Ref. 992/137G-001 “Siamese Fighting Fish” pocket watch (a one-of-a-kind piece created in 2019). It is then coated with transparent blue enamel that allows the underlying decor to shine through; the venerable technique is referred to as flinqué enameling.

The enduring color and timeless sheen of this dial is the background for the faceted, lancet-shaped hour and minute hands in white gold; they hover above printed hand-shaped gold markers, and a subsidiary seconds dial is discreetly positioned at 6 o’clock.

The bezel is remarkably radiant with 168 flawless Top Wesselton brilliant-cut diamonds set in two offset rows using the “Flamme®” technique. With this exclusive and patented setting method, the artisan uses a sharp burin to cut notches in the gold between the individual stones so that the light can ignite the fire of the diamonds from below as well, enhancing the airiness of the precious creation.

The self-winding caliber R 27 PS is powered by a 22K gold eccentric minirotor recessed in the movement. It stands out not only with its very thin profile (height: 5.05 mm), allowing a svelte case silhouette, but also with the harmonious sound of its two classic gongs. Its architecture and the lavish finissage can be admired through the sapphire-crystal display back. It can be swapped with the solid back in white gold that comes with the watch.

The new Ref. 7040/250G-001 Ladies Minute Repeater is worn on an alligator strap in patinated ocean blue. Its white-gold prong buckle is set with 26 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.18 ct).

About Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 Collection

Models

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Patek Philippe and Chiming/ Striking watches

June 20, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

Patek Philippe is a pioneer in mechanical striking watches. In September 1839, four months after it was founded, the Geneva watch manufacture entered the first timepiece of this kind in its journal, a pocket watch with a repeater. In 1850, entries of pocket watches with a grande sonnerie appeared in the same journals.

The catalogue of the 1851 “Great Exhibition” in London (the first world exposition) mentions “repeaters” and “watches with automatic strikeworks” as specialties of Patek Philippe. This was followed in 1860 by Patek Philippe’s first pocket watches with minute repeaters, then in the course of the 19th century by further timepieces with quarter repeaters, five-minute repeaters, and minute repeaters.

In the early 20th century, with its striking timepieces, Patek Philippe definitely established itself as a front runner in watchmaking artistry, especially in their most elaborate and coveted manifestations – the grande sonnerie.

The famous “Duc de Regla” pocket watch was sold in 1910 to the Duke of Regla, a Mexican nobleman. Today, it can be admired in the Patek Philippe Museum. It incorporates a grande and a petite sonneries plus a minute repeater which features a Westminster strikework that reproduces the melody of the Big Ben clock tower on five gongs almost authentically to the note.

The 13 complicated timepieces crafted for American automobile manufacturer James Ward Packard between 1910 and 1927 included the first Patek Philippe pocket watch with a minute repeater and astronomical displays (delivered in 1927) as well as watches with grande sonneries, among them one with a Westminster chime on four gongs (1920).

The famous “Graves” pocket watch delivered to wealthy New York banker and collector Henry Graves Junior in 1933, remained the world’s most complicated portable timepiece until 1989.

Its 24 complications include acoustic functions on 5 gongs: a grande and a petite sonnerie, a minute repeater with a Westminster chime, and an alarm. At the same time, the manufacture pursued the miniaturization of repeater mechanisms to a wristwatch format and in 1916 presented its first wristwatch that struck the time – a five-minute repeater with a case and bracelet in platinum for a ladies’ wrist.

In 1989, Patek Philippe celebrated its 150th anniversary, launching the Calibre 89 that would be the world’s most complicated portable mechanical timepiece for more than a quarter century.

The 33 complications of this masterpiece of watchmaking artistry include the grande/petite sonnerie and minute repeater on four gongs. In this tribute to the renaissance of the mechanical watch, Patek Philippe also pays homage to repeating wristwatches.

The caliber R 27 is the first minute repeater movement developed and crafted entirely in-house. It chimes in two commemorative wristwatches. The former manufacture president Philippe Stern was among the first to do away with the wildly chattering recoil anchor and optimized the striking functions with the centrifugal governor invented in the late 19th century.

The Patek Philippe centrifugal governor had its debut in 1989 in the Calibre 89 and the two commemorative watches – the Ref. 3979 and 3974 – that are outfitted with the caliber R 27.

Today, with a dozen models, they constitute the broadest selection of regularly produced minute repeater wristwatches, be they pure repeater models or combined with further complications (tourbillon, perpetual calendar, chronograph, World Time, etc.).

The double-faced Star Caliber 2000 pocket watch (21 complications) was created to usher in the new millennium. For the first time in a case of its size, it accommodates a Westminster strikework with five gongs that plays the original melody of the tower clock of the parliament building in London – completely and correctly. It makes the minute repeater and the grande sonnerie a true feast for the ears.

In turn, the Sky Moon Tourbillon presented in 2001 is the first double-faced wristwatch made by Patek Philippe. Among its 12 complications, it features a moving celestial chart and a minute repeater with cathedral gongs.

In 2014, timed for the company’s 175th anniversary, Patek Philippe presented a further quantum leap in the domain of acoustic complications. It was the launch of the Ref. 5175 Grandmaster Chime, a double-faced wristwatch.

Crafted in seven exemplars, it unites 20 complications, including a grande and petite sonneries, a minute repeater, an instantaneous perpetual calendar with a four-digit year display, and two patented world debuts: an acoustic alarm that strikes the preselected alarm time and a date repeater that sounds the current date.

This first Patek Philippe wristwatch with a grande sonnerie is also the manufacture’s most complicated wristwatch and as the Ref. 6300 became part of the regular collection in 2016.

The anniversary year 2014 also gave Patek Philippe the opportunity to demonstrate its competence in chiming watches with a further commemorative timepiece in a limited edition. It was the Ref. 5275 Chiming Jump Hour with jumping displays for the hours, minutes, and seconds as well as an automatic strike at the top of every hour.

Key dates

September 4, 1839: Journal entry for the manufacture’s first chiming timepiece (No. 81), a repeater pocket watch with “repassage” (complete inspection and final adjustments) executed by François Czapek, Antoine Norbert de Patek’s first business partner.
1850: Journal entries for the first pocket watches with grande sonneries
1860: Journal entries for the first pocket watches with minute repeaters
1910: “Duc de Regla” pocket watch with grande and petite sonnerie and minute repeater with a Westminster chime on five gongs
1916: Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch with a chiming mechanism, a ladies’ model with a five-minute repeater.
1920: Pocket watch with grande sonnerie, Westminster chime on four gongs, and perpetual calendar, crafted for automobile designer James Ward Packard
1924: First Patek Philippe wristwatch with a minute repeater, sold to blind automotive engineer Ralph Teetor, inventor of cruise control
1927: First Patek Philippe pocket watch with a minute repeater and astronomical displays (celestial chart), crafted for automobile designer James Ward Packard
1933: “Graves” supercomplication, pocket watch with 24 complications, 5 gongs, grande sonnerie, petite sonnerie and minute repeater, Westminster chime, alarm
1939: First Patek Philippe wristwatch with a minute repeater and a perpetual calendar, one-of-a-kind piece in platinum, Ref. 541
1982: First Patek Philippe wristwatch with a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar, and a monopusher chronograph, one-of-a-kind piece, Ref. 3615
1983: Ref. 920/1 pocket watch with grande sonnerie, minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph, and perpetual calendar (caliber 20’’’GC)

1989: 150th anniversary of Patek Philippe and rebirth of repeater timepieces

– Calibre 89, the world’s most complicated portable timepiece, 33 complications, including a grande and petite sonnerie, a minute repeater, four gongs, and an alarm on a fifth gong

– Launch of the proprietary minute repeater caliber R 27 for wristwatches and the Refs. 3979 (R 27 PS) and 3974 with perpetual calendar (R 27 Q)

2000: Star Caliber 2000 pocket watch with 21 complications, including astronomical displays as well as a grande sonnerie and a minute repeater with a Westminster strike on five gongs
2001: Ref. 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon, Patek Philippe’s first double-faced wristwatch with 12 complications, including astronomical displays and a minute repeater with cathedral gongs
2011: First ladies’ wristwatch with a minute repeater in the contemporary collection, Ref. 7000

2014: Patek Philippe’s 175th anniversary

– Launch of the Ref. 5175 Grandmaster Chime, Patek Philippe’s first double-faced watch with a reversible case and 20 complications, including a grande and petite sonnerie, a minute repeater, and two patented world debuts: an acoustic alarm that strikes the preselected time, and a date repeater that sounds the date on demand

– Anniversary Ref. 5275 Chiming Jump Hour, with jumping hours, minutes and seconds, striking mechanism that automatically strikes the top of each hour

2016: Introduction of the Grandmaster Chime in the regular collection as the Ref. 6300
2018: First Patek Philippe Ref. 5531 World Time Minute Repeater
2019: Launch of the Ref. 5303R Minute Repeater Tourbillon on the occasion of the Patek Philippe grand exhibition in Singapore, first Patek Philippe minute repeater with a visible chiming mechanism on the dial side of the watch
2020: Launch of the Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie

Source: Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph White Gold, Reference 5968G

June 19, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

In 2018, Patek Philippe launched the very first Aquanaut chronograph for men. The first model features a steel case with a black dial mounted on a black strap in a composite material and delivered with a second composite strap in orange (reference 5968A-001).

In May 2021, the Geneva manufacture announced the launch of the first white-gold version of the Aquanaut Chronograph, with either of two colorways for the dial and matching strap: an elegant midnight blue shading to black on the dial (5968G-001) or an audacious khaki green (5968G-010).

A key aesthetic feature is the harmonious integration of the chronograph into the Aquanaut design. The interplay of polished and satin-brushed surfaces on the case, bezel and pushers contributes to the effect. The 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock echoes the bezel’s rounded octagonal shape.

The elongated pushers are positioned at 2 and 4 o’clock, either side of the screw-down crown. The chronograph indications (sweep seconds, quarter-second scale, 60-minute counter) stand out in white on the embossed Aquanaut pattern.

Legibility is ensured by white-gold applied numerals and large white-gold baton-style hands with a luminescent coating.

This model is equipped with the caliber CH 28-520 C self-winding flyback chronograph movement uniting tradition (column-wheel control) and innovation (vertical disk clutch).

As the clutch is virtually friction-free, the center chronograph hand also functions as a permanent seconds hand. The flyback function allows the user to begin timing a new event while the chronograph is still running, with a simple pressure on the push-piece at 4 o’clock.

Its 42.2 mm diameter case is water-resistant to 120 m. The integrated strap made of an ultra-resistant composite material is fitted with a patented fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches.

Technical details

Model: Aquanaut Chronograph
References 5968G-001 and 5968G-010

Movement
Caliber CH 28-520 C
Self-winding mechanical movement. Flyback chronograph with 60-minute counter and date aperture
Diameter: 30 mm (base movement 30 mm; chronograph module 30 mm)
Height: 6.63 mm (base movement 5.2 mm; chronograph module 1.43 mm)
Number of parts: 308
Number of jewels: 32
Power reserve: Min. 45 hours / max. 55 hours
Winding rotor: Central rotor in 21K gold, unidirectional winding
Frequency: 28 800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance: Gyromax®
Balance spring: Spiromax® (in Silinvar®)
Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Crown functions
Two-positions crown:
• Unscrewed: manual winding
• Pulled out: setting the time

Displays
By hands:
• Center hours and minutes
• Center chronograph/sweep seconds hand
• Chronograph 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock
By aperture:
• Date at 3 o’clock

Corrector
Rapid date correction at 8 o’clock
Delivered with a setting stylus in black wood and 18K white gold

Pushers
Chronograph start and stop at 2 o’clock • Chronograph reset to zero and flyback function at 4 o’clock

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
18K white gold
Sapphire-crystal case back
Screw-down crown
Water-resistant to 120 m (12 bars)

Case dimensions
Diameter (10–4 o’clock): 42.2 mm
Width (9–3 o’clock with crown): 45 mm
Length (across lugs): 50.1 mm
Height: 11.9 mm
Width between lugs: 22 mm

Dial
Brass, with embossed sunburst decoration and PVD coating in blue shading to black (5968G-001) or embossed decoration varnished in khaki green (5968G-010)
Applied Arabic numerals in 18K white gold with a Superluminova® luminescent coating
Applied hour markers in 18K white gold with a Superluminova® luminescent coating
Baton-style hour and minute hands in 18K white gold with a Superluminova® luminescent coating
Arrow-style chronograph/sweep seconds hand with counterpoise, in white-lacquered steel
Baton-style hand in white-lacquered brass on the 60-minute chronograph counter

Strap
Composite material, ultra-resistant to water, ultraviolet radiation and wear, with raised checkerboard pattern matching that of the dial
Patented fold-over clasp in 18K white gold, secured by four independent catches

Patek Philippe’s “Rare Handcrafts” Exhibition to be held in Geneva from 16th to 26th June 2021

June 14, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer6 Comments

At its historic headquarters on Rue du Rhône, from June 16 to 26, 2021, Patek Philippe is showcasing an extensive selection of over 75 pocket watches, wristwatches, dome clocks, and table clocks from its latest rare handcrafts collection.

It is a rich range of one-of-a-kind and limited-edition pieces that pay tribute to challenging manifestations of craftsmanship such as manual engraving, grand feu cloisonné enamel, miniature painting on enamel, guilloching, gem-setting, and wood micromarquetry. On this occasion, Patek Philippe is also presenting six new watches that are endowed with especially elaborate decorations.

Since the early days of mechanical watchmaking, artisans have always invested considerable care in decorating their clocks and watches. Timepieces were mainly beautiful, artistically finished treasures before they advanced to become reliable precision instruments. In Geneva, the individual decorative techniques found fertile ground in the famous “Fabrique” where all watchmaking-related occupations were assembled.

Since 1839, as an heir of the grand Genevan tradition, Patek Philippe systematically commissioned the most talented artists to ennoble its creations. From 1970 to 1980, when the demand for such decoratively enhanced watches slumped and several ancestral techniques were on the brink of extinction, the manufacture mobilized its resources to preserve and breathe new life into all of its precious know-how and in particular miniature painting on enamel.

To this very day, Patek Philippe is dedicated to safeguarding and handing down all these competencies, but also to further evolving them in close collaboration with the artists who set their sights on new horizons. Moreover, the manufacture supports the development of totally new techniques for decorating watches, one of which is wood micromarquetry.

The significance of artisanal professions for Patek Philippe also comes to the fore in the generous amount of space reserved for craftsmanship in the new, impressive production building that was officially inaugurated in Plan-les-Ouates (Geneva) in the spring of 2020.

Every year, to highlight the full beauty and radiance of these refined techniques; Patek Philippe presents a collection of one-of-a-kind and limited-edition pieces enhanced with the most exquisite artisanal skills.

The 2020 selection proved to be particularly rich, comprising more than 70 pocket watches (with their matching stands), wristwatches – Calatrava, Golden Ellipse, Minute repeaters for ladies & Ladies’ Nautilus – and dome table clocks with motifs taken from eclectic sources of inspiration such as nature, fine arts, and cultural traditions from five continents. Because it was not possible to present the 2020 collection last year, Patek Philippe carefully safeguarded it in anticipation of its display to the general public and to watch connoisseurs.

The exhibit at the Patek Philippe Salons in Geneva is enriched with several 2021 creations that in particular salute the Genevan heritage. It offers a unique opportunity to admire this array of extraordinary works of art in its entirety before they are dispatched to private collections around the world. While exploring the exhibits, visitors can also observe the artisans at work as they demonstrate their virtuosity on site at the highest level of perfection.

Manual engraving is the oldest decorative technique used to adorn timepieces. It ranks among the grand Genevan specialties (in the late 18th century, more than 200 engravers worked in Geneva). It also occupies a prominent position in Patek Philippe’s “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” collection.

It graces the case backs of pocket watches or serves as a frame for motifs executed with other techniques. Additionally, it plays a role in damascening where gold thread inlays in contrasting colors are worked into the surface to be decorated.

Cloisonné enamel has also been an element of horological artistry for a long time. On many one-of-a-kind and limited-edition pieces, it evokes fascination with the unmatched saturation and lasting intensity of its colors. A good example is the “Jazz” dome table clock. Its decor relies on flat gold wire with an impressive length of 18.3 meters.

The wire is manually cut into tiny individual pieces and shaped to the contour of the motif. 48 transparent enamel paints are then applied. Grand feu cloisonné enamel is often enriched with gold powder or tiny spangles (paillons) in gold or silver leaf that shimmer through the enamel (paillonné enamel).

Miniature painting on enamel has been a key Genevan specialty since the 17th century as evidenced by numerous historic pieces on display at the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva; it has a strong presence at the exhibition. It is found especially on the case backs of pocket watches and the dials of wristwatches. The artists use tiny brushes to apply the motifs stroke by stroke.

Receptive to all unique traditions in craftsmanship, Patek Philippe is also showcasing three magnificent techniques of French origin in its dome table clocks: Limoges enamel painting (consisting of several transparent enamel coats), fauré enamel (relief enamel) and Longwy enamel on faience (with black edges).

In guilloching, venerable hand-operated machines are used to cut delicate geometric patterns into metal workpieces. The interaction with reliefs and light in the traditional technique of flinqué enamel shimmers through a transparent enamel coating. In mixed-technique work, guilloching also repeatedly occurs with certain motifs in cloisonné enamel.

Wood micromarquetry is a highly elaborate skill that for several years now has been used by Patek Philippe to decorate the dials of wristwatches or the case backs of pocket watches. It attains new pinnacles of virtuosity in small images assembled with hundreds of tiny pieces of wood and intarsias crafted from a wide range of wood species with varying colors and graining.

Diamond gemsetting causes the bezels of wristwatches to sparkle and creates breathtaking decors on haute joaillerie watches.

Patek Philippe also demonstrates its creativity and artisanal competence with numerous so-called mixed-technique pieces that combine different disciplines of craftsmanship. The “Panda” pocket watch is one of the most striking examples. It is a one-of-a-kind piece with a wood micromarquetry back, a dial in grand feu flinqué enamel, and a manual engraving on the case and the bezel.

The techniques of rare craftsmanship are not reserved only for one-of-a-kind pieces in limited editions. Patek Philippe also uses them to decorated certain timepiece models in the current collection, such as individual grand complications or watch design icons.

On the occasion of the “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibition, the manufacture is presenting six new versions of familiar watch models that were turned into uniquely seductive pieces by gifted artists.

The double-face Sky Moon Tourbillon wristwatch (12 complications) combines a manually engraved rose-gold case with a decor in brown grand feu champlevé enamel and a guilloched ornament (Ref. 6002R-001). The Ref. 5304 self-winding grand complication with a minute repeater and a retrograde perpetual calendar now comes in rose gold decorated with 80 baguette diamonds (Ref. 5304/301R-001).

The Ref. 5374 grand complication with a minute repeater and a perpetual calendar is joined by a new white-gold version with a blue grand feu enamel dial (Ref. 5374G-001).

The current Patek Philippe collection welcomes a new minute repeater for ladies with a dial in blue grand feu flinqué enamel and a bezel with a Flamme® diamond complement (Ref. 7040/250G-001), as well as a new Golden Ellipse Haut Artisanat in white gold with champlevé enamel and manual engraving (Ref. 5738/51).

The manufacture also demonstrates its virtuosity in the master jeweler’s art with a new version of the Nautilus Haute Joaillerie in white gold with a random diamond pavé setting, also called snow setting (Ref. 7118/1450G-001).

Patek Philippe Calatrava “Clous de Paris” References 6119R-001 (18K rose gold) & 6119G-001 (18K white gold)

April 24, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

Patek Philippe presents two references of the Calatrava “Clous de Paris” watch.

The famous Calatrava with the guilloched hobnail bezel is one of the most inimitable examples of the typical Patek Philippe style.

It now comes in a new version with a decidedly contemporary look, a slightly larger diameter, and a dial with applied hour markers. This sleek, slender, and elegant men’s wristwatch in rose or white gold also has a totally new manually wound Patek Philippe movement with a power reserve of 65 hours.

Launched in 1932 as the Ref. 96 (the first model of the manufacture with a reference number), the Calatrava established itself as the quintessence of the classic round wristwatch. It is deemed by Patek Philippe to be one of the most beautiful manifestations of timeless elegance.

Its puristic design reflects the minimalistic Bauhaus principle (function determines the form of an object). It has been repeatedly reinterpreted in numerous versions for ladies and men. They featured flat or slightly rounded bezels, smoothly polished, set with precious stones or guilloched. The models ranged from ultra-thin to impressive, with officer’s cases and sleek dials that showed merely the hours and minutes, sometimes also the seconds or further indications, gradually forming one of the manufacture’s most comprehensive collections.

Within this proud tradition, some Calatrava models attracted considerable attention with lasting impressions: They were the versions with guilloched hobnail patterns on the bezels. This diamond-polished motif composed of small pyramid tips already appears on the bezel of a Calatrava in 1934, the Ref. 96D (D for décor). It has the same manually wound caliber 12-120 movement, the same curved lugs and the same dial with applied hour markers and small seconds as the Ref. 96.

In 1972, this type of bezel also graces the manually wound Ref. 3520D (caliber 177), with hours and minutes, Roman numerals, and straight lugs. The year 1985 marks the debut of a Calatrava that would become one of the most famous timepieces in the world of horology. It was the legendary Ref. 3919 with the manually wound caliber 215 PS, subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock, white dial with black lacquered Roman numerals and straight lugs. The model was produced for over 20 years.

This period also saw versions with smaller diameters for feminine wrists, such as the Ref. 4819 (1987) with a quartz movement, the Ref. 4820 (1988) with a quartz movement and additionally with a gem-set bezel, as well as the Ref. 4809 (1991) with the manually wound caliber 16-250 movement.

The Ref. 5115 (2000) with the manually wound caliber 215 PS reappears with the curved lugs inspired by the Ref. 96D. The Ref. 5120 with straight lugs and the self-winding caliber 240 movement debuted in 2001.

With its slightly extended, finer Roman numerals and enlarged case with 36 mm diameter instead of 33.5 mm, the Ref. 5119 (2006) is a re-edition of the Ref. 3919, but retains the manually wound caliber 215 PS and the straight lugs. In 2009, it is complemented with the Ref. 5116 with a dial in grand feu enamel.

In 2016, a guilloched hobnail motif on the case flanks and one of the two dials of the Ref. 6300 Grandmaster Chime (Patek Philippe’s most complicated wristwatch) emphasized the significance of this decoration that is so typical for the manufacture. Since 2018, with the exception of some limited rare handcrafts editions (reference 5177), the “Clous de Paris” pattern has no longer appeared in Patek Philippe’s current collection. This is an ideal occasion to prepare its grand comeback.

Patek Philippe has endowed this Calatrava “Clous de Paris” with fresh elan by updating its iconic design in a very contemporary manner. The new Ref. 6119 – the number pays tribute to the storied 3919 legend and the Ref. 5119 from 2006 – distinguishes itself mainly with the slightly larger diameter of 39 mm. It reflects the changing preferences of our era and emphasizes its presence on the wrist without compromising the slender elegance of its case.

A further design development: Black lacquered Roman numerals on a white background in the Refs. 3919 and 5119 have been replaced by applied faceted “obus” markers in 18K gold (with double markers at 12 o’clock). These markers emphasize the timelessly sleek aspect of the dial with its larger diameter.

Thus, Patek Philippe has returned to the roots of the Calatrava design vocabulary and to the references 96 (1932) and 96D (1934). They were endowed with the same type of hour markers. The gold dauphine-style hour and minute hands also recall the Ref. 96 but have three instead of two facets. They assure excellent legibility not least because of the railway-track minute scale at the periphery of the dial. The slender “cheveu”-style seconds hand rotates on the subsidiary subdial at 6 o’clock which is divided into four quarters.

The round bezel is decorated with a guilloched hobnail pattern and exhibits a slightly wider chamfered profile as well as a thin, polished fillet that frames the box-form sapphire crystal.

The shape of the strap lugs was reworked as well. The straight lugs of the Ref. 3919 are replaced with curved lugs inspired by the Ref. 96 and the self-winding Calatrava models from the 1990s. They create a perfect transition from the case to the strap, assuring a comfortable fit.

This new flagship of the Patek Philippe style is new masterpiece among the manufacture’s grand classics; it comes in two versions.

he Ref. 6119R-001 combines a rose-gold case with a silvery grained dial as well as applied hour markers and hands in rose gold. It is worn on a shiny chocolate brown alligator strap with a rose-gold prong buckle.

The Ref. 6119G-001 in white gold subtly plays with light on a charcoal gray dial with attractive contrasts – a vertical satin finish interrupted by the snailed subsidiary seconds dial. The applied hour markers and hands are made of the same metal as the case.

This watch is worn on a shiny black alligator strap with a white-gold prong buckle. The characteristic shape of the prong buckles for both Ref. 6119 watches was originally designed explicitly for the American market by Henri Stern, the manufacture’s former president.

With the introduction of a totally new manually wound movement, the Ref. 6119 Calatrava “Clous de Paris” establishes a new milestone in the history of Patek Philippe’s most famous timepiece collection. Its launch gives Patek Philippe the opportunity to present a brand new base movement that enriches the broad range of manufacture calibers. Its development is based on the desire to have a manually wound movement with a larger diameter than the caliber 215 PS. It allows the creation of exceptionally slender cases as a prerequisite for timeless elegance.

The new caliber 30-255 PS has an inside case diameter of 30.4 mm (overall diameter 31 mm) as opposed to 21.5 mm for the 215 PS (overall diameter 21.9 mm) and an unchanged height of 2.55 mm as indicated by its designation. To preserve the height of 2.55 mm of the caliber 215 movement, the engineers and designers of the manufacture implemented several ingenious solutions, among them a central pinion without a wheel plate that meshes with the center wheel via an intermediate wheel as well as a ratchet wheel and a crown located beneath the barrel bridge instead of above it.

The caliber 30-255 PS is exceptionally robust and powerful, and delivers a power reserve of 65 hours or nearly three days. A special feature of the movement is its two mainspring barrels in a parallel arrangement. They relax together and engage with the central pinion in a configuration that is rarely used. In contrast to barrels connected in series to extend the power reserve, parallel barrels increase the torque of the movement by adding the torque of the two barrels.

This solution supports maximum force despite the slender architecture and allows the deployment of a balance with twice the moment of inertia of 10 mg/cm2. It is the highest moment of inertia of all of Patek Philippe’s 4-Hz movements. It improves rate stability and simplifies the precision adjustment of the movement.

The frequency of 4 hertz (28,000 semi-oscillations per hour) pursues the same objectives. Of course, the caliber 30-255 PS – with a maximum deviation of -3/+2 seconds in 24 hours – fulfills the extremely strict directives of the Patek Philippe Seal as regards rate accuracy. A stop seconds feature that blocks the balance when the crown is pulled makes it possible to set the time with one-second accuracy. When the crown is pushed home, the mechanism kick-starts the balance to set it in motion again.

Also, the architecture of the new base movement was carefully aligned with ancestral traditions, according to which each wheel or every function has its own bridge.

Visible through the sapphire-crystal case back, the caliber 30-255 PS reveals six elegantly shaped bridges that are finished to the most exacting horological traditions. This includes Geneva striping as well as chamfered and polished edges. The new manually wound movement harmoniously pairs aesthetics and performance. It celebrates its debut in the Calatrava Ref. 6119 which is off to a good start into a promising future in the Patek Philippe collections.

Technical details

Model: Calatrava “Clous de Paris” Ref. 6119R-001

Movement
Caliber 30-255 PS
Manually wound mechanical movement with subsidiary seconds
Diameter: 31 mm
Inside case diameter: 30.4 mm
Height: 2.55 mm
Number of parts: 164
Number of jewels: 27
Power reserve: Min. 65 hours
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance: Gyromax®
Balance spring: Spiromax® (in Silinvar®)
Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Displays
Center hours and minutes
Subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock

Functions
Two-position crown:
• Pushed home: To wind the watch
• Pulled out: To set the time with balance stop

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
18K rose gold 5N
Diameter: 39 mm
Length (across lugs): 46.9 mm
Width (9 to 3 o’clock incl. crown): 41.35 mm
Overall height (crystal to lugs): 8.43 mm
Height (crystal to back): 8.08 mm
Width between lugs: 21 mm
Sapphire-crystal case back
Water resistant to 30 m (3 bar)

Dial
Brass, silvery grained
Faceted “obus” hour markers, applied, in 18K rose gold 5N
Dauphine hour and minute hands in 18K rose gold 5N with 3 facets
“Cheveu”-style seconds hand in 18K rose gold 5N

Strap
Alligator leather with large square scales, mechanical artisanal-look stitching, shiny chocolate brown, prong buckle in 18K rose gold 5N

Model: Calatrava “Clous de Paris” Ref. 6119G-001

Displays
Center hours and minutes
Subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock

Functions
Two-position crown:
• Pushed home: To wind the watch
• Pulled out: To set the time with balance stop

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
18K white gold
Diameter: 39 mm
Length (across lugs): 46.9 mm
Width (9 to 3 o’clock incl. crown): 41.35 mm
Overall height (crystal to lugs): 8.43 mm
Height (crystal to back): 8.08 mm
Width between lugs: 21 mm
Sapphire-crystal case back
Water resistant to 30 m (3 bar)

Dial
Brass, charcoal gray, with vertical satin finish, delicately snailed subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock
Faceted “obus” hour markers, applied, in 18K white gold
Dauphine hour and minute hands in 18K white gold with 3 facets
“Cheveu”-style seconds hand in 18K white gold

Strap
Alligator leather with large square scales, mechanical artisanal-look stitching, shiny black, prong buckle in 18K white gold

Patek Philippe Calatrava models, Ref. 96 and “Clous de Paris”: Key dates:

1932: Launch of the first Calatrava, the famous Ref. 96 (the first Patek Philippe model with a Reference number) with the manually wound caliber 12-120 – a sleekly designed watch that became the archetype of the classic round wristwatch.

1934: The Patek Philippe Ref. 96D (D for decor) features the same manually wound caliber 12-120, the same dial with applied hour markers, and the same slightly curved strap lugs as the Ref. 96, but distinguishes itself with a bezel decorated with the guilloched “Clous de Paris” motif.

1953: The Ref. 2526 is the first Patek Philippe wristwatch endowed with a self-winding movement, the caliber 12-600 AT.

1972: The Patek Philippe Ref. 3520D with a manually wound movement (caliber 177) combines a “Clous de Paris” bezel, an hours/minutes dial with Roman numerals, and a case with straight strap lugs.

1982: The Patek Philippe Ref. 3796 with a case and dial inspired by the Ref. 96 is powered by a self-winding caliber 215 PS movement with subsidiary seconds.

1985: Launch of the famous Patek Philippe Ref. 3919 “Clous de Paris” with a manually wound caliber 215 PS movement, subsidiary seconds, white dial with black lacquered Roman numerals and straight lugs. This model was produced for 20 years and became one of the most celebrated timepieces in the world of horology.

1988: The Patek Philippe Ref. 3992 with a “Clous de Paris” bezel and straight lugs is powered by a self-winding, ultra-thin caliber 240 movement.

2000: The Patek Philippe Ref. 5107 equipped with the self-winding caliber 315 S C movement features a dial with sweep seconds and an aperture date.

2000: The Patek Philippe Ref. 5115 “Clous de Paris” with the manually wound caliber 215 PS movement echoes the dipping curved strap lugs that recall the Refs. 96 and 96D.

2001: The self-winding caliber 240 movement powers the Patek Philippe Ref. 5120 “Clous de Paris” with hour and minute hands, Roman numerals, and straight lugs.

2004: The Patek Philippe Ref. 5196 combines a manually wound caliber 215 PS movement with subsidiary seconds as well as a case and dial inspired by the Ref. 96.

2006: The Patek Philippe Ref. 5119 with elongated slender Roman numerals is a reinterpretation of the Ref. 3919 in a slightly larger case (36 mm instead of 33.5 mm) and it retains the manually wound caliber 215 PS movement as well as the straight lugs.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P-001 In-line Perpetual Calendar

April 18, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

Patek Philippe introduces a totally new perpetual calendar with an innovative patented one-line display. This new watch displays the day, the date, and the month on a single line in an elongated aperture beneath 12 o’clock.

To combine this unique feature with crisp legibility and high reliability, the designers developed a new self-winding movement for which three patent applications have been filed. This new in-line perpetual calendar premières in an elegant platinum case with a blue dial.

As classic grand complications par excellence, perpetual calendars have always been prominently featured in Patek Philippe’s collections. In 1925, the Genevan manufacture presented the first wristwatch with this highly elaborate complication (movement No 97’975; the watch is on display at the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva, No. P-72).

Patek Philippe perpetual calendars offer a wide range of design elements with analog or aperture displays and dial configurations.

Models with the famous self-winding ultra-thin caliber 240 Q movement, such as the Ref. 5327, can be recognized by their day, date, and month displays in three separate subsidiary dials. The self-winding caliber 324 S Q, which among others powers the Ref. 5320, exhibits another traditional face among the manufacture’s perpetual calendars. It features a dual aperture for the day and month at 12 o’clock and a subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock for the analog date and the moon-phase display.

The caliber 324 S QR also ticks in the Ref. 5160 and features an added complication: the date display with a retrograde hand that sweeps an arc from 8 to 4 o’clock. It is complemented with four aperture displays for the day of the week at 9 o’clock, the month at 3 o’clock, the leap year cycle at 12 o’clock, and the moon phases at 6 o’clock.

For the new Ref. 5236P-001, this watch presents an innovative indication of the day, date, and month in an elongated aperture at 12 o’clock. A panoramic aperture of this kind is not totally unprecedented in the manufacture’s collections. In the course of time, the manufacture had already crafted pocket watches with an in-line calendar display for the American market.

One example of such timepieces is on display at the Patek Philippe Museum: it is a pocket watch from 1972 (No. P-1450) that features a calendar format “à l’américaine” (month, date, day). But never before has the manufacture introduced a wristwatch with a full calendar on a single line as exemplified by the new Ref. 5236P-001.

To implement this masterpiece of miniaturization, Patek Philippe had to overcome totally new technical challenges. To assure the largest possible calendar display on a single line with optimized legibility, the developers were asked to design a system with two date disks – one for the tens and one for the units. So the calendar display consists of four disks, one for the day, two for the date, and one for the month – all four perfectly embedded in the same plane. A single date disk with 31 numerals would have been too small and less easily legible.

In compliance with the manufacture’s basic principles as set forth in the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal, the new, complex mechanical ensemble had to be implemented with the smallest possible diameter and minimized height without compromising its maximum long-term dependability.

For this reason, the project team proceeded on the basis of the caliber 31-260 REG QA that was originally launched in 2011 with the Ref. 5235 Annual Calendar Regulator. Not least because of its eccentric recessed minirotor, this self-winding movement with subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock is extremely slender.

While retaining the diameter and height of the basic movement (31.74 x 2.60 mm, hence the designation 31-260), the engineers completely reworked the new caliber 31-260 PS QL (PS for petite seconde [subsidiary seconds] and QL for “quantième perpétuel en ligne“ [in-line perpetual calendar]) and integrated the manufacture’s latest technical achievements. The movement was “tuned”, so to speak, so it could drive the particularly energy-hungry perpetual calendar mechanism.

The torque of the spring barrel was increased by 20% and the winding power boosted with a platinum minirotor that has more mass than 22K gold that is normally used for Patek Philippe minirotors. Rate stability was improved by increasing the frequency from 3.2 to 4 Hz (28,800 semi-oscillations per hour) which also simplifies precision adjustments to the rate tolerance specified by the Patek Philippe Seal. Moreover, the caliber 31-260 PS QL is fitted with a reduction wheel that uncouples the automatic winder as soon as the movement is being manually wound.

This is a Patek Philippe invention patented in 2019 that reduces wear. The aesthetic appeal of the movement is subtly evolved with two distinctive bridges for the escapement and the fourth wheel. Their configuration made the work of the engineers more difficult but it affords a better view of the basic movement’s wheel train, overall architecture, and refined finissage as revealed by the sapphire-crystal caseback. This back can be substituted with a solid platinum back that is delivered with the watch.

The perpetual calendar mechanism (including a 12-month cam and a satellite cam for the month of February) is designed as a separate module with its own plate. This is a preferred solution for this movement, thanks to which the overall height of the caliber is smaller than with a partially integrated mechanism.

The connection of the calendar with the basic movement is established with an intermediate wheel that engages with the hour-wheel pipe (a pinion that controls the minute hand). This second minute wheel is suspended between two jewels and meshes with a 24-hour wheel, also between jewels, which guarantees optimized energetic efficiency.

But the most innovative aspect is the single-line calendar display with four rotating disks, assuring optimized legibility, minimal energy consumption, and superb reliability. This mechanism alone required 118 additional parts in comparison with a conventional perpetual calendar display, including several bridges and wheels with jewel bearings that reduce energy consumption, especially of the two date disks.

To keep all the indications on one plane without any overlap, Patek Philippe’s engineers developed a display system composed of two coplanar double ball bearings for which a patent application has been filed.

The dependable date display and the perfect synchrony of the two date disks are optimized with an “anti-double-jump” feature for the units disk to prevent disk bounce in the event of a jolt or when a date correction is being performed (second patent application). The transition from the 31st day to the 1st day of the next month is the subject of the third patent application for a mechanism that immobilizes the units disk. This is done with a 31-point date star from which two teeth were removed.

The switching of the calendar displays is gradual. The display of the day, date, and month on a single line is complemented with two small round apertures, one at 4 o’clock for the leap year cycle and one at 8 o’clock for the day/night indicator. This information is very useful when the calendar needs to be set.

The moon phases, an essential element of Patek Philippe’s perpetual calendars, are tracked with very high precision in a window within the subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock. To facilitate the adjustment of the functions, three correctors – for the day, the date, and the month – are recessed in the case flank between 9 and 2 o’clock, in the same order as the respective displays. The moon phase corrector is positioned at 8 o’clock.

The looks of the new Ref. 5236P-001 in platinum are inspired by the Ref. 5235 Annual Calendar Regulator. It features a very sleek case with a diameter of 41.3 mm and a chamfered bezel. This unassuming architecture is emphasized with polished finissage that is executed by hand according to venerable Patek Philippe traditions. Slightly angled strap lugs extend the line of the chamfered bezel and assure optimized comfort on the wrist.

As in most of Patek Philippe’s platinum wristwatches, the case flank features a small diamond at 6 o’clock. The blue dial with the black gradation to the periphery creates a harmonious contrast against the silvery shimmer of platinum.

A vertical satin finish causes the light to sparkle. The progression of time is tracked with applied hour markers and baton hands in white gold. The technical accent of the railway track minute scale is echoed by the subsidiary seconds scale at 6 o’clock. The day, date, and month displays are clearly and legibly printed in blue on white.

A navy blue alligator strap with a platinum fold-over clasp rounds out the inimitable personality of the Ref. 5236P-001 Perpetual Calendar with perfection.

Technical details

Model: Ref. 5236P-001 In-line Perpetual Calendar

Movement
Caliber 31-260 PS QL
Self-winding mechanical movement
Full perpetual calendar with an in-line display of the day, date, and month
Leap-year cycle and day/night indicator
Moon phases
Subsidiary seconds
Diameter: 34 mm (basic caliber 31.74 mm, calendar module 34 mm)
Height: 5.8 mm (basic caliber 2.6 mm; calendar module 3.2 mm)
Number of parts: 503 (basic caliber 205, perpetual calendar 298)
Number of jewels: 55
Power reserve: Min. 38 hours, – max. 48 hours
Winding rotor: Minirotor in platinum, unidirectional winding
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance: Gyromax®
Balance spring: Spiromax® (in Silinvar®)
Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Displays
With hands:
• Center hours and minutes
• Subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock
In apertures:
• Day, date, and month on a single line at 12 o’clock
• Day/night indication at 8 o’clock
• Leap-year cycle at 4 o’clock
• Moon phases at 6 o’clock

Functions

Two-position crown:
• Pushed home: To wind the watch
• Pulled out: To set the time

Correctors
• Day of week between 9 and 10 o’clock
• Date at 10 o’clock
• Month and leap-year cycle at 2 o’clock
• Moon phase between 8 and 9 o’clock

Delivered with correction stylus in ebony and 18K white gold

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
950 platinum
Sapphire-crystal case back and interchangeable solid platinum back
Water resistant to 30 m (3 bar)
Diamond at 6 o’clock
Case dimensions: Diameter: 41.3 mm
Length (across lugs): 48.61 mm
Width (9 to 3 o’clock incl. crown): 44.35 mm
Overall height (crystal to lugs): 11.5 mm
Height (crystal to back): 11.07 mm
Width between lugs: 20 mm

Dial
Brass, lacquered blue with black gradation, vertical satin finish
Applied baton hour markers with 2 facets, 18K white gold
Baton-style hour and minute hands with 2 facets, 18K white gold
“Cheveu”-style seconds hand with counterweight, 18K white gold
Printed minute scale and subsidiary seconds scale

Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with large square scales, shiny navy blue, fold-over clasp in 950 platinum

Patents

Three patent applications were filed by Patek Philippe for the perpetual calendar mechanism with an in-line display developed for the Ref. 5236P-001.

• Display mechanism (ball-bearing display) (European patent application EP19194522.9, Aug. 30, 2019): This display system featuring two “double ball bearings with coplanar balls” makes it possible for all the indications of the perpetual calendar to appear on one line in the same plane and without overlapping.

• Shock absorber mechanism and/or anti-double-jump feature for watch movements (European patent application EP19194519.5, Aug. 30, 2019): This mechanism improves the reliability of the date display as well as the perfect synchronization of the two numeral disks by suppressing a second jump of the date in the event of a jolt or when the date is being corrected.

• Date, Switch from 31 to 01 (European patent application EP19194523.7, Aug. 30, 2019): This mechanism assures that the unit remains in its position when the switch from the 31st to the 1st of the following month takes place. This is handled by a 31-point star from which two teeth were removed.

Historic References

First wristwatch with a perpetual calendar (1925)

The very first known wristwatch with a perpetual calendar is the unique Patek Philippe No. 97‘975 that is on display at the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. It was crafted in 1925 on the basis of a case and a movement for a ladies’ pendant watch that had been manufactured in part in 1898.

The calendar displays on the white enamel dial (day at 12 o’clock, analog date from the center, month at 6 o’clock) switch instantaneously (jumping). They are complemented with the moon phase and moon age indications at 3 o’clock. The rose-gold case was plated with yellow gold in 1925. The bezel is emphasized with a black enamel fillet; the strap lugs are decorated with engravings.

Pocket watch with in-line perpetual calendar (1972)

The Ref. 725/4 Lépine pocket watch exhibited at the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva (No. P-1450) was created in 1972 for the American market. One of its special features is a perpetual calendar with displays on a single line in a wide panorama aperture at 12 o’clock.

The arrangement of the jumping displays (month-date-day) follows the American calendar format. The perpetual calendar is complemented with a moon-phase display at 6 o’clock. Endowed with a straight-line lever escapement, the caliber 17-170 movement is accommodated in a yellow-gold case.

Patek Philippe Nautilus New Models

April 17, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

During “Watches and Wonders Geneva 2021”, Patek Philippe unveiled four new models in its Nautilus collection. The Ref. 5711/1A in stainless steel features an all-new sunburst dial in olive green (Ref. 5711/1A-014). The casually elegant legend in steel with an olive green sunburst dial is also available with a baguette diamond-set bezel (ref. 5711/1300A-001).

The Ref. 5990/1 Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph with a self-winding movement, two time zones, a flyback chronograph and local-time date indication combines rose gold with a blue sunburst dial (Ref. 5990/1R-001). The very rare and precious Nautilus Haute Joaillerie, also in rose gold, has a sparkling random pavé set diamond complement (ref. 7118/1450R-001).

Ref. 5711/1A-014 Nautilus (with sunburst olive green dial)

The Ref. 5711/1A Nautilus flagship model in steel that was launched in 2006 on the 30th anniversary of the collection was first presented with a blue, black gradated dial (ref. 5711/1A-001 from 2006 to 2009, ref. 5711/1A-010 starting in 2010) and then joined from 2012 to 2019 by a model with a silvery white dial (ref. 5711/1A-011).

In 2015, this palette was extended by a rose-gold version with a dial gradated from brown in the center to black on the periphery (ref. 5711/1R-001).

Now that it has been announced that the Ref. 5711/1A in stainless steel will soon be discontinued, Patek Philippe is unveiling this cult model with an olive green dial – a hue that never existed before in the Nautilus collection.

This elegant shade is emphasized with a gentle sunburst finish that harmonizes with the light reflected from the steel case, enhancing the design with a contemporary facet. It also assures legibility at any time of day or night, creating a perfect contrast against the luminescent hands and hour markers in white gold.

The prominent contours of the Nautilus are underscored by the subtle interplay of satin-brushed and polished finissage on the bezel, the case, and the bracelet. For every watch, the manual work involved requires 55 individual finishing steps.

The case is water resistant to 120 meters, protecting the self-winding caliber 26-330 S C movement that has been powering the Ref. 5711 since 2019. This new movement is a spin-off of the caliber 324 S C and offers several innovations and technical optimizations, especially of the winding system. It also features a stop-seconds mechanism that allows the watch to be set with one-second accuracy.

A sapphire-crystal case back reveals the refined architecture of the movement and the immaculate finissage that reflects Patek Philippe’s long-standing traditions.

The new Ref. 5711/1A-014 with the olive green sunburst dial replaces the Ref. 5711/1A-010 with a blue-black gradated dial and joins the Ref. 5711/1R-001 in rose gold in the collection.

Ref. 5711/1300A-001 Nautilus: (stainless steel version, with olive green dial and baguette diamonds set bezel)

With the new Ref. 5711/1300A-001, Patek Philippe introduces an exceptionally remarkable alliance: cool steel with baguette-cut diamonds that are usually only paired with precious metal.

The characteristic shape of the bezel and case is emphasized with a row of 32 flawless Top Wesselton baguette diamonds (~3.6 ct.) set to the highest standards of the master jeweler’s art. A highly refined detail: Each baguette diamond has a special slightly trapezoidal shape instead of the classic rectangle and is cut to perfectly match the octagonal bezel with the rounded corners.

The fire of the diamonds also illuminates the olive green dial that was introduced this year with the Ref. 5711/1A-014. The inimitable dial features the typical Nautilus horizontally embossed decor as well as the delicate shimmer of the sunburst finish.

The hour markers and the slightly rounded baton hands in white gold are coated with a luminous compound and assure excellent legibility at any time of day or night.

The case and the integrated bracelet hug the wrist for a snug and comfortable fit. As in all other Nautilus models, the subtle alternation of manually polished and satin-finished elements highlights the interplay of the individual contours.

The Ref. 5711/1300A-001 is water resistant to 120 meters and is endowed with the same new self-winding caliber 26-330 S C as the Ref. 5711/1A-014, a mechanical movement that can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back.

Ref. 5990/1R-001 Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph (rose gold version with a blue sunburst dial)

The Ref. 5990/1 Nautilus launched in stainless steel in 2014 with a dial that has a black gradation to the periphery combines three useful and conveniently operable complications: a flyback chronograph, a Travel Time function (two time zones) and an analog date at 12 o’clock synchronized with local time.

Patek Philippe now offers this model in a new rose-gold version that contrasts beautifully with the horizontally embossed blue sunburst dial as well as with the hour markers and hands in rose gold with luminous coatings.

This watch, which is water resistant to 120 meters, is powered by the self-winding chronograph caliber CH 28-520 C FUS that melds venerable traditions (column wheel control) with avant-garde aplomb (disk clutch).

The sweep chronograph hand is complemented with a 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock. The flyback function enables the instant start of a new short-time measurement while the chronograph is already running. This is done by pressing the pusher at 4 o’clock without first stopping the hand with the pusher at 2 o’clock.

The Travel Time system relies on two hour hands from the center. The pierced hand indicates the hours of home time while the hours of local time are shown by the solid hand. While travelling or to display the time elsewhere, users can select a second time zone with their watch by using the “+” and “-” pushers in the case flank at 9 o’clock to move the local-time hand forward or backward in one-hour steps.

During the process, the pierced hand continues to show the hour that applies to home time. This ingenious mechanism is paired with two day/night indicators that are clearly identified with LOCAL and HOME inscriptions. As long as the user remains at his place of residence and does not want to know the time in another time zone, the two hour hands can be superposed as if they were a single hand.

Like the case and the bezel, the rose-gold bracelet stands out with alternating polished and satin-brushed finissage. The watch features a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp that is secured with four independent catches.

In the Nautilus collection, the new Ref. 5990/1R-001 in rose gold joins the Ref. 5990/1A in stainless steel.

Ref. 7118/1450R-001 Nautilus Haute Joaillerie

The iconic design of ladies’ Nautilus watches comes in various haute joaillerie versions set with brilliant-cut diamonds or baguette diamonds.

From 2013 to 2018, Patek Philippe offered a rose-gold model that including the dial was adorned with diamonds in a random pavé setting (also referred to as snow-setting)- Ref. 7021/1R-001.

Now, Patek Philippe is revisiting this precious tradition by presenting a new model in rose gold with a diamond snow-setting on the case, the bezel, and the bracelet. The exclusive dial features individual rows of diamonds that exhibit a fine undulated relief, a typical facet of the Nautilus ladies’ collection. The second difference: the case is somewhat larger, with a diameter of 35.2 mm from 10 to 4 o’clock (as opposed to 33.6 mm for its predecessor).

The new Ref. 7118/1450R-001 Nautilus watch is adorned with 2553 flawless Top Wesselton brilliant-cut diamonds (~12.69 ct). This gleaming look is created with the very rare snow-setting technique, also known as random pavé.

It is a highly sophisticated method mastered down to the last detail by the manufacture’s artisans. It consists of setting and fixation of diamonds of different sizes with the objective of minimizing the exposure of precious metal between the individual stones. It is self-evident that each watch with a full random pavé is a one-of-a-kind piece.

Its dial features “Alpha” hour and minute hands in luminous rose gold; the applied Arabic rose-gold numerals are luminous as well.

The rose-gold case accommodates a self-winding caliber 324 S movement with extremely elaborate finissage that can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back.

The 18K rose-gold bracelet combines elegance with a truly comfortable fit. It is outfitted with a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp that is secured with four independent catches.

Patek Philippe Twenty~4 New Models

February 19, 2021January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

Patek Philippe has expanded its Twenty~4 collection by adding three new models.

The “manchette” or cuff-style models with quartz movements now include a new version in rose gold with a chocolate-brown sunburst dial.

The Twenty~4 Automatic, in a round case, offers two new models, one in steel adorned with an olive-green sunburst dial, the other in rose gold, its dial gilded with a rose-gold sunburst.

The Patek Philippe Twenty~4 quartz “manchette” model, featuring a cambered rectangular case and a dial adorned with applied Roman numerals, appeared in a wealth of different versions. In 2018, attuned to the needs of twenty-first century women and their increasing interest in mechanical movements, Patek Philippe launched the Twenty~4 Automatic.

While this model stands out by its round case and its dial’s Arabic numerals, it retains the same exclusive bracelet and the same spirit – that of a modern classic at ease in every situation. In 2020, the manufacture gave a new face to its “manchette” model by endowing it too with applied Arabic numerals. In 2021, the brand welcomes three new Twenty~4 models: one with quartz movement and two with automatic movements.

The collection now includes 12 models: with a round or “manchette” design, a quartz or automatic movement, a steel or rose-gold case and bracelet, and a splendid palette of dials, together with diamond-set versions.

Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Reference 4910/1201R-001

The third “manchette” model to adopt the new Twenty~4 face, Reference 4910/1201R-001 pairs an 18K rose-gold case with a chocolate-brown sunburst dial – a warm-toned, refined, feminine combination. Two vertical rows of seventeen Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (total: 34 diamonds, ~0.57 ct) set with textbook precision highlight the distinctive two-tier shape of the case.

The clean layout of the dial gives center stage to the applied Arabic numerals, the applied trapeze-shaped hour-markers and the rounded baton-style hands, all in rose gold with a luminescent coating.

A Calatrava cross, emblem of the manufacture, decorates the crown. The rose-gold bracelet with fold-over clasp is a jewel in its own right. Fully hand-polished, it feels smooth and cossetting on the wrist. The mechanical components of the Patek Philippe calibre E15 quartz movement are crafted with the same devotion to fine workmanship as those of the mechanical movements.

The new Twenty~4 “manchette” Reference 4910/1201R-001 joins the models in steel with a blue sunburst dial (4910/1200A-001) or a gray sunburst dial (4910/1200A010).

Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Automatic Reference 7300/1200A-011

This new Twenty~4 Automatic in steel stands out by its elegant dial in olive green, a color making its first appearance in the contemporary Patek Philippe collections and presented to great effect with a glowing sunburst decoration. The white-gold applied Arabic numerals and white-gold hands have a luminescent coating, ensuring excellent legibility under all conditions.

A white-gold frame adorns the date aperture at 6 o’clock. The pure circle of the case is lit with 160 diamonds (~0.77 carat) set in two staggered rows according to the “dentelle” (lacework) technique. A transparent case back reveals the painstaking hand-finish and decoration lavished on the caliber 324 S C self-winding movement. The polished-steel bracelet features a new, patented fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches.

This new Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Automatic Reference 7300/1200A-011 joins the models in steel with a blue sunburst dial (7300/1200A001) or a gray sunburst dial (7300/1200A-010).

Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Automatic Reference 7300/1200R-011

Sculpted in rose gold, the new Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Automatic Reference 7300/1200R-011 extends the warm sheen of its case to a dial gilded with a rose-gold sunburst and to hour and minute hands, applied Arabic numerals and the frame of the date aperture all fashioned in the same precious metal.

A double row of diamonds in a “dentelle” (lacework) setting adds a touch of brilliance, as does the fine hand-finish and decoration of the caliber 324 S C self-winding movement visible through the sapphire-crystal case back. The new, patented fold-over clasp adds to the comfort of the bracelet, whose three rows of rose-gold links are fully hand-polished.

The new Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Automatic Reference 7300/1200R-011 joins the rose-gold models featuring a dial with a chocolate-brown sunburst (7300/1200R-001) or a “shantung” decoration (7300/1200R-010) and the jewelry versions (7300/1201R-001 & 7300/1201R-010) and Haute Joaillerie versions (7300/1450R-001).

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Quartz Reference 4910/1201R-001

Movement
Caliber E15 quartz
Dimensions: 15 x 13 mm
Height: 1.8 mm
Number of parts: 57
Number of jewels: 6
Quartz frequency: 32,768 Hz
Power source: Silver oxide battery 1.55 V
Battery life: Approximately 3 years
Displays: By hands: hours and minutes
Crown functions: Pulled out: to stop the movement and set the time

Case
Rose gold set with 34 brilliant-cut Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (~0.57 ct.) on the case
Solid case back
Water-resistant crown
Water-resistance: 30 m (3 bars)
Case dimensions: 25.1 x 30 mm
Total height: 6.8 mm
Width between lugs: 14.1 mm

Dial
Chocolate-brown sunburst
18K rose-gold applied Arabic numerals and 18K rose-gold applied trapeze-shaped hour markers, all with Superluminova® luminescent coating
Rounded baton-style hour and minute hands in 18K rose gold with
Superluminova® luminescent coating

Bracelet
18K rose gold with fold-over clasp

Model: Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Automatic Reference 7300/1200A-011

Movement
Caliber 324 S C
Self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter: 27 mm
Height: 3.57 mm
Number of parts: 217
Number of jewels: 29
Power reserve: Min. 35 hours – max. 45 hours
Oscillating weight: Central rotor in 21K gold, unidirectional winding
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance: Gyromax®
Balance spring: Spiromax® (in Silinvar®)
Balance-spring stud: Adjustable

Displays
By hands: Center hours, minutes and sweep seconds
By aperture: Date at 6 o’clock

Crown functions
Three-position crown:
• Pushed in: to wind the movement
• Pulled out halfway: to set the date
• Pulled out all the way: to set the time

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
Steel set with 160 brilliant-cut Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (~0.77 ct.) on the bezel
Sapphire-crystal case back
Water-resistant crown
Water-resistance: 30 m (3 bars)
Diameter: 36 mm
Height between top and bottom sapphire-crystals: 10.05 mm
Width between lugs: 12.15 mm

Dial
Olive-green sunburst
18K white-gold applied Arabic numerals and 18K white-gold applied hour-markers, all with Superluminova® luminescent coating
Rounded baton-style hour and minute hands in 18K white gold with Superluminova® luminescent coating
Seconds hand in Pfinodal, rhodium-plated and polished

Bracelet
Steel with patented fold-over clasp (patent EP3162241B1), a system with four independent catches providing optimized security when opening and closing, particularly by avoiding all accidental opening of one of the two halves of the bracelet.

Model: Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Automatic Reference 7300/1200R-011

Displays
By hands: Center hours, minutes and sweep seconds
By aperture: Date at 6 o’clock

Crown functions
Three-position crown:
• Pushed in: to wind the movement
• Pulled out halfway: to set the date
• Pulled out all the way: to set the time

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
18K rose gold set with 160 brilliant-cut Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (~0.77 ct.) on the bezel
Sapphire-crystal case back
Water-resistant crown
Water-resistance: 30 m (3 bars)
Diameter: 36 mm
Height between top and bottom sapphire-crystals: 10.05 mm
Width between lugs: 12.15 mm

Dial
Gilded with a rose-gold sunburst
18K rose-gold applied Arabic numerals and 18K rose-gold applied hour-markers, all with Superluminova® luminescent coating
Rounded baton-style hour and minute hands in 18K rose gold, all with Superluminova® luminescent coating
Seconds hand in Pfinodal, rose-gold-plated and polished

Bracelet
Rose gold with patented fold-over clasp (patent EP3162241B1), a system with four independent catches providing optimized security when opening and closing, particularly by avoiding all accidental opening of one of the two halves of the bracelet.

Patek Philippe Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie

November 21, 2020January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer1 Comment

In addition to the extraordinary Grande Sonnerie function, the Patek Philippe Ref. 6301P grand complication watch also incorporates a petite sonnerie (that does not strike the quarter hours), a minute repeater (that strikes on demand), and a patented jumping subsidiary seconds.

It is Geneva manufacture’s first wristwatch that presents the grande sonnerie as the epitome of horological complications in its purest form, complemented with a petite sonnerie and a minute repeater.

Patek Philippe Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie @Patek Philippe

For this grand complication timepiece, Patek Philippe developed a new movement as a spin-off of the caliber 300 of the Grandmaster Chime. Given its 703 parts, the caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM is remarkably compact for such a complex mechanism (diameter: 37 mm; height: 7.5 mm).

One of the traditionally greatest difficulties for the engineers of grande sonneries is mastering energy flows and power reserves. Unlike in minute repeaters which must be triggered on demand by actuating a slide or a pusher, the grande sonnerie needs to have sufficient reserve power to automatically sound the required number of time strikes with uniform acoustic quality.

To address this challenge, Patek Philippe endowed the caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM with two tandem-connected twin mainspring barrels, one for the going train and the other for the chiming mechanism. This configuration delivers a power reserve of 72 hours for the movement and of 24 hours for the strikework.

The 24-hour power reserve for the strikework allows the watch to strike the full hours and the quarter hours during an entire day and thanks to a uniform torque characteristic to assure optimized sound intensity. The two twin mainspring barrels are wound with the crown pushed in and rotated clockwise to wind the going train and counter-clockwise to wind the strikework. The four mainsprings feature slip bridles to avoid over-tensioning.

As regards the strikework, Patek Philippe opted for three classic gongs – low, medium, high. This technical option requires more energy than systems with two gongs. It also complicates the watchmaker’s work when tuning each gong until all three create the legendary “Patek Philippe sound” so coveted by connoisseurs.

Attached to the movement, the three gongs must not touch one another nor other parts of the case or movement despite the compact space in which they hover. Three hammers of identical size and mass guarantee a uniform strike for all three pitches. The selection of platinum as the case material also presented a challenge because it is difficult to master acoustically and requires Patek Philippe know-how that at the manufacture is handed down from one generation to the next.

The hours are struck on a low-pitched gong, the quarter hours with a three-strike high-low-medium sequence. The melody for the first quarter hour (15 minutes) sounds once, for the second quarter hour (30 minutes) twice and for the third quarter hour (45 minutes) three times. Each quarter-hour sequence is automatically preceded by the number of elapsed hours, and followed by the number of quarter hours.

Thanks to the energy stored in the twin mainspring barrel of the strikework, this adds up to an impressive total of 1056 strikes in 24 hours. The owner can also select the strikework mode petite sonnerie; it strikes the full hours but omits the repetition of the hours when striking the quarter hours. In the silence mode, the automatic time strike is switched off altogether.

The selection of the strikework mode is performed with a slide switch in the caseband at 6 o’clock. The petite sonnerie mode is on the left adjoining the grande sonnerie mode in the middle and silence on the right. This special feature is the subject of a patent that was already developed for the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime and describes a mechanism that enables the selection and activation of the strike mode with a single slide switch.

Formerly, two switches were needed to execute these steps. Another patent, also developed for the Grandmaster Chime, allows the complete isolation of the grande sonnerie in the silence mode, eliminating power consumption.

On request, the minute repeater can be triggered by pressing the pusher in the crown at 3 o’clock. In response, it strikes the number of hours with low tones, the quarters with three-strike sequences (as in the grande sonnerie mode), and, on the higher-pitched gong, the number of minutes that have elapsed since the last quarter hour. The minute repeater can be triggered at any time, even if the slide is set to the silence mode.

When they reworked the caliber 300 from the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, the engineers and designers at the manufacture added a small jumping seconds display, which was never done with a grande sonnerie.

Inspired by the four patents of the 175th-anniversary model, the Ref. 5275 Chiming Jump Hour, they endowed the new Ref. 6301P with an innovative jumping seconds mechanism. Its system does not rely on jumper springs as usual but instead with wheels and a release lever that instantaneously unblocks the wheel train every second, making energy consumption easier to regulate and control.

Thus, the new Ref. 6301P chiming watch presents a novel face characterized by the subsidiary seconds hand at 6 o’clock. With the blink of an eye, it jumps along the railway track minute scale from one second to the next, recalling the regulator clocks that were used in old watchmaking ateliers to synchronize the time. The new Ref. 6301P also benefits from the entire experience and the latest insights gained in the design and production of the commemorative watches crafted on the occasion of Patek Philippe’s 175th anniversary.

The new caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM – it can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back – fulfills all the strict requirements of the Patek Philippe Seal. This applies to the technical parameters (rate accuracy, dependability) and to the finissage and attractive architecture of the individual components.

Special attention was devoted to the design of the movement bridges, especially the barrel bridge (a key element of grande sonneries) and the transversal balance cock (balance bridge), a Patek Philippe rarity that assures a secure seat and pleasing visual proportions. Connoisseurs will discover many other aesthetic details, including the many re-entrant angles that are very difficult to polish.

The centrifugal governor that regulates the speed of the time strikes is decorated with exquisitely smoothed and polished finishes that are now visible to the observer. This spectacular movement is rounded out with a Gyromax® balance, the Spiromax® balance spring in Silinvar®, the three gongs coiled around the movement, and their respective hammers.

The antireflective sapphire-crystal back positioned very close to the movement offers a fascinating glimpse into a micromechanical realm. It can be replaced with a solid platinum back that is delivered with the watch.

The platinum case, inspired by the Ref. 5370 split-seconds chronograph presented in 2015, expresses subtlety and balance in its curves and rounded contours, with the concave bezel for a perfect transition from the slightly cambered sapphire-crystal glass and the countersunk satin-finished case flanks. Like all Patek Philippe platinum cases, it sports a small diamond set in this instance at 12 o’clock because the usual 6 o’clock position is occupied by the slide switch for selecting the strikework mode.

Patek Philippe has leveraged its skills with respect to artisanship and rare handcrafts, notably on the black grand feu enamel dial with the “glacé” finish, applied Breguet numerals, and leaf-shaped hands in luminescent white gold. The slightly slanted Breguet numerals add a dynamic touch to the classic yet contemporary face.

The displays for the hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock are well proportioned alongside two power-reserve indicators for the movement and the strikework at 3 and 9 o’clock with semicircular scales identified with the inscriptions MOUVEMENT and SONNERIE.

The timepiece is worn on a hand-stitched shiny black Alligator strap with square scales and a fold-over clasp.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie

The 6 complications of the new Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie

1. Grande sonnerie
2. Petite sonnerie
3. Minute repeater
4. Movement power-reserve indicator
5. Strikework power-reserve indicator
6. Jumping seconds

Patents

• Isolation of the grande sonnerie in the silence mode (Patent CH 704 950 B1): In the silence mode, this mechanism totally isolates the grande sonnerie from the power flow and eliminates energy consumption.
• Selection of the strikework mode (Patent CH 706 080 B1): This mechanism enables the selection of the strikework mode (petite sonnerie, grande sonnerie, silence) with a single lever and a single slide switch. Two slide switches were formerly required for this operation.
• Jumping display with a jumping seconds wheel (Patent CH 707 181 A2): This innovative mechanism for jumping displays does not require springs and levers but instead uses wheels and a release lever that instantaneously unblocks the wheel train every second, and features a coiled return spring as the only power element. The advantage of this system is that it makes energy consumption easier to regulate and control.

Movement
Caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM
Manually wound mechanical movement
Grande and petite sonnerie, minute repeater on 3 gongs
Jumping seconds
Strikework mode indicator (petite sonnerie, grande sonnerie, silence)
Power-reserve indicators for movement and strikework
Diameter: 37 mm
Height: 7.5 mm
Number of parts: 703
Number of jewels: 95
Movement power reserve: 72 hours
Strikework power reserve: 24 hours
Frequency: 25,200 semi-oscillations per hour (3.5 Hz)
Balance: Gyromax®
Balance spring: Spiromax® (in Silinvar®)

Two-position crown
• Pushed home: Winding the movement (clockwise), winding the strikework (counterclockwise)
• Pulled out: To set the time

Displays
• Center hour and minute hands
• Jumping subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock
• Movement power reserve at 9 o’clock
• Strikework power reserve at 3 o’clock

Control elements
• Pusher in the crown at 3 o’clock triggers the minute repeater
• Side switch at 6 o’clock selects the strikework mode (petite sonnerie, grande sonnerie, silence)

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
Platinum 950 with a flawless Top Wesselton diamond between the lugs at 12 o’clock
Not water-resistant, protected against moisture and dust
Sapphire-crystal case back and interchangeable solid back
Case dimensions: Diameter: 44.8 mm

Dial
18K gold, black grand feu enamel with “glacé” finish
Applied Breguet numerals in 18K white gold
Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands in 18K white gold with luminous coating
Subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock with “dague” type hand in white gold, printed railway track seconds scale with luminous 10-second markers
Printed railway track minute scale with luminous 5-minute markers
“Cheveu” type hands in white gold for the power-reserve indicators for the movement and the strike-work

Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with large square scales, shiny black, platinum foldover clasp

Patek Philippe New Twenty~4 References 4910/1200A-001 & 4910/1200A-010

November 6, 2020January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

Patek Philippe is continuing the renewal of its Twenty~4 collection by reinterpreting the original model, the medium-size (25.1 x 30 mm) quartz “manchette” watch in steel.

It is issuing two new versions in which the Roman numerals give way to the white-gold applied Arabic numerals 12 and 6 and the diamond hour markers are replaced by applied trapeze-shaped hour markers, also in white gold.

This new face constitutes the first major change to the Twenty~4 of 1999 – and an aesthetic evolution in step with the design of the Twenty~4 Automatic.

Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Quartz Medium, Reference 4910/1200A-001

The two new references feature a dial decorated with a blue sunburst (4910/1200A-001) or with a gray sunburst enriched by a gradation to black at the periphery (4910/1200A-010).

Their white-gold applied numerals and hour markers and white-gold baton-style hands all have a luminous coating ensuring excellent legibility in the dark. The fine grooved rays of the sunburst emanating from the center of the dial play with the light, lending a refined but dynamic touch.

The distinctive shape of the two-tier rectangular case is underlined by two rows of 18 Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (approx. 0.42 ct) set with textbook precision. A Calatrava Cross, emblem of the Patek Philippe manufacture, embellishes the crown.

Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Quartz Medium reference 4910/1200A-010

The supple, comfortable bracelet, fitted with a fold-over clasp, is a jewel in its own right. Each component is manually finished and fully polished. The Patek Philippe caliber E15 quartz movement is made with the same devotion to fine workmanship as the manufacture’s mechanical movements.

The new references 4910/1200A-001 and 4910/1200A-010 with Arabic numerals replace the previous references 4910/10A-001, 4910/10A-010, 4910/10A-011 and 4910/10A-012 with Roman numerals.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Quartz Medium, Reference 4910/1200A-001

Case
Steel set with 36 brilliant-cut Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (~0.42 ct.) on the bezel
Solid case back
Water-resistant crown
Water-resistance: 30 m (3 bars)
Case dimensions: 25.1 x 30 mm
Total height: 6.8 mm
Width between lugs: 14.1 mm

Dial
Blue sunburst
18K white-gold applied Arabic numerals and 18K white-gold applied trapeze-shaped hour markers, all with Superluminova® luminescent coating
Baton-style hour and minute hands in 18K white gold with Superluminova® luminescent coating

Bracelet
Steel with fold-over clasp

Model: Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Quartz Medium reference 4910/1200A-010

Dial
Gray sunburst shading to black at the periphery
18K white-gold applied Arabic numerals and 18K white-gold applied trapeze-shaped hour markers, all with Superluminova® luminescent coating
Baton-style hour and minute hands in 18K white gold with Superluminova® luminescent coating

Bracelet
Steel with fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, Ref. 7234G-001

September 18, 2020January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

Prestigious luxury Swiss watch manufacture Patek Philippe extends its family of Pilot-style watches by adding the new Ref. 7234G-001 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time model. Introduced in 2015, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time family of watches takes inspiration from the manufacture’s aviator’s watches from the 1930s.

In 2015, Patek Philippe launched Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524G-001, the first pilot-style watch produced as a homage to the aviation pioneers. It boasts a highly unusual design as regards the prominent case as well as the dial with large white numerals and luminous hands that contrast crisply against the dark background.

With its name and functional features, this modern pilot watch recalled the first aviator’s watches. Patek Philippe also took inspiration from two aviator’s watches that had been crafted in the manufacture in 1936 and are now exhibited at the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. They were very special siderometer (hour-angle) watches that allowed pilots to easily, precisely, and swiftly determine their current positions.

Instead of black, the usual dial color of aviator’s watches, a very special and elegant blue was chosen, offering an excellent contrast for optimized legibility.

The siderometer architecture became obsolete with modern navigation aids, providing space for a function that is much more useful for modern-day travelers: the display of a second time zone made possible by the exclusive Travel Time mechanism. This easily operable system was patented by Patek Philippe in 1959 and 1996. It is characterized by two hour hands from the center. The local-time hour hand can be adjusted via two pushers in one-hour steps. The date is synchronized with local time.

This technical timepiece with a case diameter of 42mm laid the foundation for a new Patek Philippe family of timepieces with an eminently recognizable design. In 2018, Patek Philippe reinterpreted the original Calatrava Pilot Travel Time with a rose-gold version and a brown dial.

In the same year, the manufacture launched the rose-gold model in the medium format with 37.5 mm case (reference 7234R-001) that was destined for feminine wrists but also welcomed by men who prefer somewhat smaller watches.

In 2019, the pilot style took center stage again with the Ref. 5520 Alarm Travel Time grand complication. It combines the display of two time zones with a 24-hour alarm mechanism. The family also includes the two limited editions that were presented on the occasion of the Patek Philippe exhibitions in New York in 2017 (Ref. 5522A) and Singapore in 2019 (Ref. 7234A).

Following the success of this new watch collection, Patek Philippe has created the new mid-sized Ref. 7234G-001 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time in white gold.

As a medium-sized version of the Ref. 5524G launched in 2015, the Ref. 7234G Calatrava Pilot Travel Time has a diameter of 37.5 mm to fit women’s and men’s wrists. The round Calatrava case in white gold is sleek with a flat and slightly beveled bezel as well as a caseband that merges almost seamlessly with the strap lugs.

The blue lacquered dial, inspired by aviator’s watches, is highly legible even in the dark thanks to applied white-gold numerals filled with a white luminous coating and broad luminous baton hands made of blued white gold.

The self-winding caliber 324 S C FUS movement consists of 294 parts and features the exceptionally convenient Travel Time system for displaying a second time zone.

All it takes is the actuation of one of the two pushers in the left-hand case flank to move the luminous local-time hour hand clockwise (with the lower pusher) or counter-clockwise (upper pusher) in one-hour increments. During such adjustments, the local time hand is disconnected from the movement, so the accuracy of time displayed by the minute and seconds hands is not compromised. The skeletonized hour hand continues to indicate home time.

Both time zones have separate day/night indicators (LOCAL window at 9 o’clock for local time, HOME window at 3 o’clock for home time) to simplify time setting on the go and to prevent unintentionally waking up loved ones with a phone call in the middle of the night. As long as the watch owner is at home, the two hour hands are superposed.

The two time-zone pushers are equipped with a patented safety system that prevents unintended adjustments of the local time setting. Before they can be actuated, they must be unlocked with a quarter turn, which is simplified by delicate fluting. Afterwards, they must be locked again with a quarter turn in the opposite direction.

The analog date at 6 o’clock shows the date in three-day increments to improve legibility without cluttering the scale. A useful feature for travelers is that the date is always synchronized with local time because the time-zone pushers also increment or decrement the date if the local time hour hand passes midnight either clockwise or counter-clockwise.

The new Ref. 7234G is worn on a shiny navy-blue calfskin strap secured with a clevis prong buckle in white gold. It is reminiscent of the harnesses that allowed pilots to keep their parachutes and survival kits readily deployable. The package also includes a second calfskin strap in vintage brown with contrast stitching much like the belts for classic pilot overalls.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234G-001

Movement
Caliber 324 S C FUS
Self-winding mechanical movement, two time zones (local time and home time), separate day/night indicators for local and home time, analog date synchronized with local time
Diameter: 31 mm (basic movement 27 mm, calendar/time-zone module 31 mm)
Height: 4.9 mm (basic movement 3.32 mm, calendar/time-zone module 1.58 mm)
Number of parts: 294
Number of jewels: 29
Power reserve: Min. 35 hours, max. 45 hours
Winding rotor: Central rotor in 21K gold, unidirectional winding
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax® (in Silinvar®)
Balance spring stud: Fixed

Functions
Two-position crown:
– Pushed in: To wind the watch
– Pulled out: To set the time

Displays
Local-time hour hand (upper hand, filled) and minute hand from the center
Home-time hour hand (lower hand, skeletonized) from the center
Sweep seconds hand
Date hand at 6 o’clock
Aperture displays:
– Day/night indicator for local time at 9 o’clock (LOCAL)
– Day/night indicator for home time at 3 o’clock (HOME)

Correctors
Date at 6 o’clock

Pushers
Increment local time in one-hour steps at 8 o’clock
Decrement local time in one-hour steps at 10 o’clock

Patented safety system
Locks pushers with a quarter turn

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
18K white gold, sapphire-crystal back, water-resistant screw-down crown
Water-resistant to 30 meters
Case dimensions: Diameter: 37.5 mm
Height (crystal to display back): 10.78 mm
Width between lugs: 18 mm

Dial
Brass, lacquered blue
Applied Arabic numerals, 18K white gold with Superluminova coating
Baton hands for hours and minutes of local time in blued white gold with Superluminova coating
Baton hand for hours of home time in skeletonized white lacquered white gold
Seconds hand in steel with Superluminova coating
Leaf-shaped hand for the date, white lacquered

Strap
Calfskin, shiny navy blue, clevis prong buckle in 18K white gold
Delivered with a second calfskin strap in vintage brown with contrast stitching, clevis prong buckle in 18K white gold

Further Pilot-Style Watches by Patek Philippe

Ref. 5524G-001 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time

As the first pilot-style model (2015), this watch combines a 42-mm white-gold case with a blue lacquered dial featuring white-gold applied numerals and luminous hands in blued steel.

Its caliber 324 S C FUS movement shows the time in a second time zone with a filled hour hand while the pierced hour hand indicates home time. The analog date at 6 o’clock is synchronized with local time. The watch has a brown calfskin strap with a clevis prong buckle.

Ref. 5524R-001 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time

This timepiece from 2018 is a reinterpretation of the original design of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time in a 42-mm rose-gold case featuring a brown dial with a black gradation to the outer periphery.

The self-winding caliber 324 S C FUS displays a second time zone and the date coupled with local time. The dial has applied numerals and broad baton hands in rose gold with luminous coatings. The calfskin strap in vintage brown is secured with a rose-gold clevis prong buckle.

Ref. 7234R-001 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time

As the mid-size version of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, the Ref. 7234R-001 (2018) has a diameter of 37.5 mm. It was developed to address the preferences of women and those of men who favor slightly smaller formats.

Its rose-gold case frames a brown dial with a subtle black gradation as well as applied luminous numerals and hands in rose gold. The calfskin strap in vintage brown is secured with a rose-gold clevis prong buckle.

Ref. 5522 Calatrava Pilot New York 2017 Special Edition

This watch with hours, minutes, and seconds was launched in a limited edition of 600 pieces on the occasion of Patek Philippe’s “The Art of Watches Grand Exhibition New York 2017”. As a special feature, its 42-mm case is made of stainless steel, a rare case material for watches outside of the manufacture’s casual sports collections.

The inimitable blue color of the dial recalls the livery of American fighter planes in the 1930s. The self-winding caliber 324 S movement can be admired through the sapphire-crystal back decorated with the engraving “PATEK PHILIPPE NEW YORK 2017”.

Ref. 7234A-001 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Singapore 2019 Special Edition

Launched in a limited edition of 400 pieces on the occasion of the “Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019”, this exclusive mid-size version (diameter 37.5 mm) of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time stands out with a steel case, a blue-gray dial reminiscent of Southeast Asia’s maritime landscapes, and an embossed blue calfskin strap.

The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the self-winding caliber 324 S C FUS movement and bears the inscription “PATEK PHILIPPE SINGAPORE 2019”.

Ref. 5520P-001 Alarm Travel Time

As a travel companion par excellence for globetrotters (launched in 2019), this self-winding grand complication features the exclusive Travel Time time-zone system with a 24-hour alarm mechanism that strikes a classic gong with a hammer and digitally displays the alarm time.

To achieve this, the manufacture created a totally new integrated movement with 574 parts. Four patent applications were filed for the alarm mechanism. The functional logic has been carefully thought through to simplify the operation of the watch as much as possible. Various safety and isolating mechanisms prevent damage to the movement as a result of incorrect manipulation.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Yellow Gold Case and Silvery Opalescent Dial

July 26, 2020January 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

A successor of Patek Philippe’s grand 1941 classic (Ref. 1518), the Ref. 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph has been available since 2018 in platinum with a golden opaline dial and a rose-gold version with a gold “goutte” style bracelet.

Now, the manufacture is extending its regular collection of this grand complication in a yellow gold version for the first time.

The silvery opaline dial with applied baton indexes and leaf-shaped hands in yellow gold assures excellent legibility. The displays of the perpetual calendar are tastefully balanced with an analog date at 6 o’clock and a double aperture for the day and month at 12 o’clock. They are complemented with two small round apertures for the day/night indicator and the leap year cycle as well as the typical moon-phase window.

The caliber CH 29-535 PS Q is the first chronograph movement with a perpetual calendar developed in 2011 and crafted entirely by Patek Philippe. It combines traditional architecture (horizontal clutch, column wheel and manual winder) with six patented innovations for the chronograph functions and stands out with its extremely thin calendar mechanism (1.65 mm for 182 parts).

The eight patents of the new caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement

Technical details

Model: Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time

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A condensate of mechanical achievements

A patented concentric display

Energy control and high precision

A high-tech regulator mechanism

Fluid and perfectly synchronized hand movements

A proven shock absorber

A monopusher chronograph

The seven patents of the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 movement

Technical details

Model: Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph

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Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” Innovations for Minute repeaters

(1) A sound amplification system with a sapphire-crystal oscillating wafer

(2) A flexibly suspended sound lever

(3) A new type of sound propagation

(4) A distinctly louder and totally harmonious sound

(5) Platinum components

Ref. 5750P Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater

Patents

About Patek Philippe “Advanced Research”

Patek Philippe “Advanced Research”: key achievements

2005: Silinvar®

2005: First escape wheel in Silinvar®

2006: Spiromax® balance spring in Silinvar®

2008: Pulsomax® escapement in Silinvar®

2011: Oscillomax® ensemble (Pulsomax® escapement with GyromaxSi balance and Spiromax® balance spring)

2017: Optimized Spiromax® balance spring

2017: Correctors with compliant mechanism in steel

Technical details

Model: Ref. 5750 Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater Limited edition of 15 pieces

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The previous limited editions Patek Philippe made especially for Tiffany & Co.

2001: Refs. 5150R, 5150J & 5150G – 450 watches

2009: Refs. 4987G-001 & 4987G-010 – 100 watches

2012: Refs. 4987G-011 & 4987G-012 – 50 watches

2012: Ref. 5396G-012 – 100 watches

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany & Co.”

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The nine patents of the caliber 86-135 PEND IRM Q SE

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(1) Ground floor: Collection of Workbenches and Antique Tools, and The Restoration Workshop

(2) Third floor: The Patek Philippe Historical Archives, The Library and the Collection of Portraits and Snuffboxes in Miniature Painting on Enamel

(3) Second floor: The Antique Collection, From the Sixteenth to the Mid-Nineteenth Century

(4) First floor: The Patek Philippe Collection, 1839–2000

Contact details

Opening hours

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Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce automatic in rose gold, Reference 5268/200R-001

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Technical details

Model: Aquanaut Luce quartz in steel

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Technical details

Model: Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Reference 5269/200R-001

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About Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 Collection

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Model: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Haut Artisanat Watch, Ref. 5738/51G-001

About Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 Collection

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Technical details

Model: Ref. 5750 Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater
Limited edition of 15 pieces