Patek Philippe Nautilus Joaillerie Ref. 7118-1300R-001

The Patek Philippe Nautilus ladies’ watch collection welcomes a new jewelry version in rose gold and set with spessartite gems.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Joaillerie Ref. 7118/1300R-001

The Ref. 7118/1300R-001 Nautilus Joaillerie comes with a 35.2 mm rose gold case. Its bezel is adorned with 68 baguette-cut spessartites that show a fascinating double-color gradation: one between the cognac-colored stones at 12 and 6 o’clock, the other between the champagne-colored stones at 9 and 3 o’clock.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Joaillerie Ref. 7118/1300R-001

The rose-gilt “waves” motif dial hosts eleven ogive-shaped, cognac-colored spessartites as hour markers. Beating inside, the self-winding caliber 324 S C movement can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Joaillerie Ref. 7118/1300R-001

The rose gold bracelet is secured with a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp that has four independent safety catches.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Nautilus Joaillerie Ref. 7118/1300R-001

Movement
Caliber 324 S C
Self-winding mechanical movement

Functions
Date in an aperture
Sweep seconds

Dial
Rose-gilt, “waves” motif, ogival-shaped cognac-colored spessartite hour markers

Case
Rose gold case
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 60 m
Diameter (10–4 o’clock): 35.2 mm
Height: 8.62 mm

Gem-setting
11 ogival-shaped cognac-colored spessartites: 0.34 ct. (hour markers). 68 baguette-cut spessartites, “champagne” to “cognac” tones: 2.04 cts. (bezel). Total of 79 spessartites (2.38 cts)

Bracelet
Rose gold bracelet with patented fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5712/1R-001

Patek Philippe has launched a new reference of its Nautilus 5712 model with an analog date, moon phases, and a power-reserve indicator.

The new Ref. 5712/1R-001 Nautilus watch combines a rose-gold case and bracelet with a brown sunburst dial and a delicate black gradation to the outside.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Rose Gold Ref. 5712-1R-001

It displays an analog date, moon phases, and a power-reserve indicator. Water resistant to 60 meters, the 40mm diameter case houses the ultra-thin self-winding caliber 240 PS IRM C LU. The dial indications are set in an atypical style but very legible way.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Rose Gold Ref. 5712-1R-001

Made of 18K rose gold, the case, the octagonal bezel, and the comfortable integrated link bracelet are enhanced with the elegant contrast of polished and satin finishes applied entirely by hand.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Rose Gold Ref. 5712-1R-001

The bracelet features a patented fold-over clasp with lockable adjustment system.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5712/1R-001

Movement
Caliber 240 PS IRM C LU
Self-winding mechanical movement

Functions
Date by hand
Moon phases
Power reserve indication
Small seconds

Dial
Sunburst brown, black-gradient rim, horizontally embossed
Gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating

Case
Rose gold case
Diameter (10–4 o’clock): 40 mm
Height: 8.52 mm
Screw-down crown
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 60 m

Bracelet
Rose gold bracelet with patented fold-over clasp with lockable adjustment system

Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5990/1A-011

Patek Philippe has launched a new version of its Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph. Dressed in a stainless steel case, this new model (reference 5990/1A-011) comes with a new blue dial with a radiant sunburst finish and a subtle black gradation to the periphery.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5990/1A-011

The Patek Philippe Ref. 5990/1A-011 is equipped with the self-winding CH 28-520 C FUS movement, which can be admires through the sapphire crystal case-back. The case measures 40.5 mm in diameter.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5990/1A-011

This Nautilus watch offers flyback chronograph, Travel Time function (two time zones with two separate hour hands; the skeletonized hand shows home time) and an analog date at 12 o’clock which is synchronized with local time.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5990/1A-011

Water resistant to 120 meters, the new Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph is fitted with a steel bracelet with patented fold-over clasp with lockable adjustment system.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5990/1A-011

Movement
Caliber CH 28‑520 C FUS
Self-winding mechanical movement

Functions
Flyback chronograph
Central chronograph hand
60-minute counter
Two time zones: local and home time indication
Day/night indication for local time and home time in apertures
Date coupled with local time by hand

Case
Steel case
Screw-down crown
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 120 m
Case diameter (10 – 4 o’clock): 40.5 mm
Height: 12.53 mm

Dial
Sunburst blue with black-gradient rim, horizontally embossed, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating

Bracelet
Steel bracelet with patented fold-over clasp with lockable adjustment system

Patek Philippe World Time Flyback Chronograph Steel, Ref. 5935A-001

Patek Philippe presents Ref. 5935A-001, a stainless steel version of the self-winding World Time flyback chronograph.

Equipped with the automatic caliber CH 28-520 HU, Ref. 5935A-001 is the very first stainless steel reference of Patek Philippe’s World Time Flyback Chronograph watch.

Patek Philippe World Time Flyback Chronograph Steel, Ref. 5935A-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

Fusing vintage and sporty looks, this new model features a 41mm diameter case. The opaline dial with its shimmering rose gilt hue offers an inimitable vintage look.

Patek Philippe World Time Flyback Chronograph Steel, Ref. 5935A-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

The “carbon” motif in the center of the dial adds modern and dynamic touches to this complication watch. The elaborately finished self-winding movement can be admired through the sapphire crystal case-back.

Patek Philippe World Time Flyback Chronograph Steel, Ref. 5935A-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

The Patek Philippe World Time Flyback Chronograph Steel (ref. 5935A-001) comes with two calfskin straps – grained taupe and beige with a velvet-like nubuck finish. These straps are secured with stainless steel fold-over clasps.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe World Time Flyback Chronograph Steel, Ref. 5935A-001

Movement
Caliber CH 28‑520 HU
Self-winding mechanical movement

Functions
Flyback chronograph
Central chronograph hand
30-minute counter
World Time
24-hour and day/night indication for the 24 time zones

Dial
Rose-gilt opaline with “carbon” motif
Charcoal gray gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating

Case
Stainless Steel
Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 12.75 mm
Sapphire crystal glass
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30 m

Strap
Calfskin, grained, hand-stitched, taupe
Additional strap: Calfskin, nubuck finish, hand-stitched, beige
Fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204G-001

Patek Philippe presents a new version of its split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar watch. This new model has a white-gold case and an olive-green sunburst dial with a black gradation to the periphery.

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204G-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

The new Ref. 5204G-001 with its manually wound split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar caliber CHR 29-535 PS Q fully reflects the tradition of Patek Philippe’s most coveted grand complications.

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204G-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

This new reference comes with a shiny olive-green calfskin strap with beige contrast seams secured with a white-gold fold-over clasp.

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204G-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

The Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar 5204 is also available in rose gold with a slate-gray dial and strap (reference 5204R-011).

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204G-001

Movement
Caliber CHR 29‑535 PS Q
Manually wound mechanical movement

Functions
Split-Seconds chronograph
Instantaneous 30-minute counter
Perpetual calendar: Day, month, leap year and day/night indication displayed in apertures. Date indicated by hand
Moon phases
Small seconds

Dial
Olive green sunburst dial with black-gradient rim
Gold applied baton-style faceted hour markers with luminescent coating
18K gold dial plate

Case
White gold case
Interchangeable solid and sapphire crystal case backs
Water-resistant to 30 m
Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 14.3 mm

Bracelet
Calfskin, hand-stitched, shiny olive green
Fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 5373P-001

Patek Philippe presents a new reinterpretation of its iconic Ref. 5372 Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph.

Especially dedicated to left-handers, the new Patek Philippe Ref. 5373P-001 features a platinum case and modern looks that emphasize its sporty and contemporary style dial. It will be produced in small series.

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 5373P-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

In 2005, Patek Philippe developed a complete series of chronograph movements with and without additional functions. All of them were designed and produced in-house.

The first among them was the manually wound caliber CHR 27-525 PS, the world’s thinnest column-wheel-controlled split-seconds chronograph movement. The caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q launched in 2010 (with the same base movement plus an extremely thin calendar module) has a height of only 7.3 mm. It is the thinnest split-seconds chronograph movement with perpetual calendar ever produced by the manufacture.

Since 2017, this exceptional caliber has been crafted in very small numbers in line with venerable watchmaking traditions. It ticks in a platinum watch with a blue sunburst dial (Ref. 5372P-001) or a rose gilt dial with a vertical satin finish (Ref. 5372P-010).

Inspired by a one-of-a-kind piece sold by Patek Philippe in 1927, a custom-made cushion-shaped split-seconds chronograph (movement No. 198 012), the manufacture has now converted the Ref. 5372 into a new version for left-handers.

The exclusive Ref. 5373P-001 combines a split-seconds chronograph with one of the most elaborate functions – the perpetual calendar which stands emblematically for the grand complications of Patek Philippe.

With a diameter of 38.3 mm, the platinum case has the same size as the Ref. 5372 but its crown (with an integrated chronograph monopusher) is at 9 o’clock and the split-seconds pusher occupies an unusual position at 8 o’clock. It preserves its timeless elegance with the polished, concave bezel that creates the perfect transition to the slightly domed sapphire-crystal back, the recessed and satin-finished case flanks, and the delicately curved strap lugs that merge with the bars almost seamlessly.

The indications (counters and apertures) of the dial are rotated by 180°: the analog date at 12 o’clock, the subsidiary seconds at 3 o’clock, the moon phases at 6 o’clock and the 60-minute counter at 9 o’clock, complemented by the aperture displays for the day of the week and the month as well as the leap year cycle at 10:30 and the day/night indicator at 1:30.

Patek Philippe has also reworked the aesthetic appeal of the dial, endowing it with a charcoal-colored aspect and a vertical satin-finish; it is ingeniously animated by a black gradation to the periphery and the snailed ebony-black subsidiary dials. The indication of the time is based on applied Arabic numerals and faceted Dauphine hour and minute hands in white gold.

The moon-phase display is extremely precise: it deviates from the actual lunar cycle by just one day every 122 years.

For crisp legibility, the three chronograph hands from the center – chronograph and split-seconds hands as well as the 60-minute counter hand at 9 o’clock – are varnished red. The three chronograph commands (Start, Stop, and Reset) are selected with the monopusher in the crown at 9 o’clock. Stopping lap times with the split-seconds hand (rattrapante) is handled with the rectangular pusher at 8 o’clock.

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 5373P-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

A sapphire-crystal display back (interchangeable with the solid-platinum back delivered with the watch) reveals the fantastic architecture of the caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q movement with its two column wheels that bear two polished caps in the typical Patek Philippe style.

The bridges, decorated with Geneva striping, are carefully chamfered and the edges are polished. A focus is also on the elegance of the form parts and the bridges à l’ancienne. Their acute internal angles can only be completed by hand, which calls for considerable dexterity and many years of experience.

The sporty looks and modern attitude of the dial also applies to the black calfskin strap with an embossed textile texture and red contrast seams. It is secured with a platinum fold-over clasp.

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 5373P-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

Like all of Patek Philippe’s platinum watches, the new Ref. 5373P-001 features a brilliant cut diamond in the caseband. As an exception for left-handers, it is set at 12 o’clock in this timepiece.

From now on, this watch is the only remaining model with the caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q movement that was formerly available in the Ref. 5372P-001 & 5372P-010; both models have been retired from the collection.

Crafted in 1925-1926 on request for a left-handed customer and sold in 1927, this split-seconds chronograph with a cushion case in 18K yellow gold (34 x 34 mm) and movement No. 198‘012 (diameter 13 lignes) stood out with its unusual arrangement of operating elements and displays.

The case and the movement were rotated by 180° with the chronograph pusher at 9 o’clock instead of 3 o’clock and the split-seconds pusher at 8 o’clock instead 2 o’clock.

The silver dial with black Brequet numerals was reconfigured to reposition the 30-minute chronograph counter from 3 to 9 o’clock and the subsidiary seconds from 9 to 3 o’clock. The uncommon shape of the chronograph and split-seconds hand with counterweights stands out as well.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Ref. 5373P-001 Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar

Movement
Caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q
Manually wound mechanical movement, split-seconds chronograph with column wheel, chronograph and split-seconds hand, 60-minute counter, and subsidiary seconds. Perpetual calendar with day, month, leap-year cycle and day/night indication in apertures, analog date. Moon phases.
Diameter: 27.3 mm
Height: 7.3 mm (base movement: 5.25 mm; perpetual calendar: 2.05 mm)
Number of parts: 476
Number of jewels: 31
Power reserve: Min. 38 hours – max 48 hours (with the chronograph uncoupled)
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Breguet

Crown functions
2-position crown
– Pushed in: To wind the watch
– Pulled out: To set the time and stop the seconds hand

Pushers
• Pusher in the crown at 9 o’clock to start, stop, and reset chronograph
• Pusher at 8 o’clock to start and stop the split-seconds hand

Displays
Center hour and minute hands
Sweep chronograph and split-seconds hands

Subsidiary dials
• Subsidiary seconds at 3 o’clock
• 60-minute counter at 9 o’clock
• Date at 12 o’clock

Display apertures
• Day of week at 3 o’clock
• Month at 9 o’clock
• Day/night at 1:30
• Leap-year cycle at 10:30
• Moon phases at 6 o’clock

Correctors
• Day of week between 2 and 3 o’clock
• Month between 6 and 7 o’clock
• Moon phase between 4 and 5 o’clock
• Date at 6 o’clock
Delivered with correction stylus in ebony and 18K white gold

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
950 platinum
Delivered with solid platinum back and interchangeable sapphire-crystal display back
Water-resistant to 30 meters (3 bar)
Case dimensions: Diameter: 38.3 mm
Height: 12.93 mm
Width between lugs: 20 mm

Dial
Dial in 18K gold, charcoal-colored with black gradation, vertical satin finish
Applied Arabic numerals in 18K white gold
Faceted Dauphine hour and minute hands in 18K white gold
Arrow-shaped chronograph and split-seconds hands in Pfinodal, lacquered red, counterweighted
Snailed ebony-black subsidiary dials:
– Subsidiary seconds at 3 o’clock: White-gold baton hands, lacquered white
– 60-minute hand at 9 o’clock, white-gold baton hand, lacquered red
– Date hand at 12 o’clock: White-gold baton hands, lacquered white

Strap
Black calfskin with embossed textile texture and contrasted red stitching, platinum fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Chronograph Ref. 7968/300R-001

Patek Philippe has expanded its Aquanaut Luce collection by launching the new “Rainbow” Chronograph model set with baguette diamonds and baguette sapphires. Moreover, it is the first self-winding Patek Philippe ladies’ chronograph.

The new Ref. 7968/300R-001 Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” chronograph is equipped with the self-winding caliber CH 28-520, a vertical disc clutch, and a large 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock.

Thanks to this modern clutch that operates with minimal wear and without affecting precision and power reserve, the sweep chronograph hand can also be used as a constantly running seconds hand.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Chronograph Ref. 7968/300R-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

With the pusher at 4 o’clock, the flyback function makes it possible to start a new measurement at any time, even if the sweep chronograph hand is already measuring the duration of an event or if it is being used as a constantly running seconds hand.

The octagonal bezel of the new Ref. 7968/300R-001 Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” chronograph is adorned with two rows of baguette-cut gems. The inner row consists of 40 flawless rare white Top Wesselton diamonds (2.05 ct). The outer one, slightly angled, sports 40 sapphires in the colors of the rainbow (2.31 ct). Each of them was hand-picked to assure the perfect transition from one nuance color to the next.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Chronograph Ref. 7968/300R-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

For this two-row arrangement, Patek Philippe selected the “invisible setting” technique in which the gems are horizontally notched on the lower facet. They can then be set on “metal rails” that are invisible from the outside.

The mother-of-pearl dial is engraved with the typical Aquanaut motif. The twelve applied hour markers in rose gold are baguette sapphires (0.31 ct) with nuance colors coordinated with those on the dial. Luminous baton hands in rose gold make the hours and minutes quickly and easily legible.

The 18K rose gold case has a diameter of 39.9 mm. The two chronograph pushers are manually polished and satin-finished by the manufacture’s artisans. In full compliance with the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal, the caliber CH 28-520 movement is also elaborately finished. It can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Chronograph Ref. 7968/300R-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

This striking gem-set ladies’ watch is delivered with three straps made of a highly durable composite material – one is red (original version), the other two are matte beige and matte white. The patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp is adorned with ten baguette diamonds (0.36 ct).

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Ref. 7968/300R-001 Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Chronograph

Movement
Caliber CH 28-520
Self-winding mechanical movement
Flyback chronograph with 60-minute counter
Diameter: 30 mm
Height: 5.3 mm
Number of parts: 259
Number of jewels: 32
Power reserve: Min. 45 hours, max. 55 hours
Winding rotor: Central rotor in 21K gold, unidirectional winding
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance: Gyromax®
Balance spring: Spiromax® (in Silinvar®)
Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Functions
Two-position crown:
• Pushed home: To wind the watch
• Pulled out: To set the time

Displays
With hands:
• Center hours and minutes
• Sweep chronograph/seconds hand
• 60-minute chronograph counter at 6 o’clock

Pushers
Chronograph start and stop at 2 o’clock
Chronograph reset and flyback function at 4 o’clock

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
18K rose gold
Bezel set with color baguette sapphires and diamonds
Sapphire-crystal case back
Water resistant to 30 m (3 bar)
Case dimensions: Diameter (10 to 4 o’clock): 39.9 mm
Width (9 to 3 o’clock incl. crown): 42.02 mm
Length across lugs: 47.24 mm
Height: 10.37 mm
Width between lugs: 21 mm

Dial
White mother-of-pearl with engraved Aquanaut motif
Applied Arabic numerals in 18K rose gold
12 applied hour markers in 18K rose gold with color baguette sapphires
Baton-style hour and minute hands in 18K rose gold with Superluminova® coating
Chronograph/seconds hand, arrow-shaped, counterbalanced, rose gilt steel
Baton-style 60-minute counter in rose gilt brass

Strap
Composite material, water- and wear-resistant, UV-resistant, relief checkerboard pattern to match the dial
The watch comes with three strap colors: Red (original), matte beige and matte white (additional straps)
Patented fold-over clasp in 18K rose gold with baguette diamonds, secured with four separate catches

Precious stones
40 color baguette sapphires (2.31 ct) on the bezel
40 baguette diamonds (2.05 ct) on the bezel
12 color baguette sapphires (0.31 ct) on die dial markers
10 diamonds (0.36 ct) on the clasp
Total: 52 color baguette sapphires (2.62 ct) and 50 baguette diamonds (2.41 ct)

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811/1G-001

Patek Philippe has released the successor of its cult watch model Nautilus 5711.

The Nautilus was born in 1976 with the launch of Ref. 3700. The Ref. 5711 was introduced in 2006 to mark the 30th anniversary of this iconic luxury sports watch family. In 2021, Patek Philippe announced the retirement of the Nautilus Ref. 5711.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811/1G-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

The new Ref. 5811/1G-001 Nautilus has a case diameter of 41 mm. It comes in white gold and a blue sunburst dial with a black gradation as well as several technical and aesthetic refinements.

Water-resistant to 120 meters and composed of two parts, the case is an interesting reminiscence of the original 1976 Nautilus. It features a new pull-out piece lever system (patent pending) that allows the winding stem to be pulled out from the dial side.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811/1G-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

The new Patek Philippe 41mm Nautilus 5811 watch is equipped with the self-winding caliber 26-330 S C. It can be seen through the sapphire-crystal case back. Its stop-seconds mechanism allows the time to be set with one-second accuracy. It provides a power reserve of up to 45 hours.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811/1G-001 movement
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5811/1G-001 comes with an integrated gold bracelet a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp that is secured with four independent catches. This bracelet also features a new lockable adjustment system, ensuring a quick and safe adjustment (2 or 4 mm) of the length for wearing comfort.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811/1G-001

Movement
Caliber 26-330 S C, Self-winding movement
Date in an aperture
Sweep seconds
Diameter: 27 mm
Height: 3.3 mm
Number of parts: 212
Jewels: 30
Power reserve: min. 35 hours – max. 45 hours
Winding rotor: 21K gold central rotor
Balance: Gyromax®
Semi-oscillation/hour: 28 800 (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Dial
Sunburst blue with black-gradient rim, horizontally embossed, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating

Case
White gold
Screw-down crown
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 120 m
Diameter (10–4 o’clock): 41 mm
Height: 8.2 mm

Bracelet
White gold bracelet with patented fold-over clasp with lockable adjustment system

Patek Philippe Ref. 4910/1200A-011 Twenty~4

Patek Philippe presents a new Twenty~4 watch for women.

The Ref. 4910/1200A-011 Twenty~4 manchette quartz watch features a steel case and an olive-green sunburst dial.

Patek Philippe Ref. 4910-1200A-011 Twenty~4 watch

Fitted with a solid stainless steel case, this ladies watch is adorned with 36 diamonds on the case sides. Hosting the hour and minute hands, the sunburst dial features applied gold hour-markers and numerals.

Patek Philippe Ref. 4910-1200A-011 Twenty~4 watch

Secured with a solid stainless steel case-back, this new Patek Philippe Twenty~4 watch is water resistant up to 30 meters.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Ref. 4910/1200A-011 Twenty~4

Movement
Caliber E 15
Quartz movement

Dial
Olive green sunburst dial
Gold applied hour markers and numerals

Case
Stainless steel
Case dimensions: 25.1 x 30 mm
Height: 6.8 mm
Solid case back
Water-resistant to 30 m

Gem-setting
36 diamonds: ~0.42 ct. (case)

Bracelet
Steel bracelet with fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe World Time Platinum Ref. 5230P-001

For the first time, the Patek Philippe Ref. 5230P-001 World Time combines a platinum case with a blue dial and matching strap. Its dial shows a new manually guilloched circular pattern inspired by the Ref. 5110 (2000), the first watch fitted with the patented World Time mechanism.

Patek Philippe World Time Platinum Ref. 5230P-001

The Patek Philippe Ref. 5230 World Time watch was introduced in 2016. It houses the self-winding Caliber 240 HU with a power reserve of 48 hours.

Patek Philippe World Time Platinum Ref. 5230P-001

Water-resistant to 30 meters, this platinum watch with a 38.5 mm diameter case is fitted on a navy blue calfskin strap.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5230P-001

Movement
Caliber 240 HU
Self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter: 27.5 mm
Height: 3.88 mm
Number of parts: 239
Bridges: 8
Jewels: 33
Power reserve: Min. 48 hours
22K gold off-center mini-rotor
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Patents: CH 595 653 and CH 693 191

Functions
World Time
24-hour and day/night indication for all 24 time zones

Dial
Blue, hand-guilloched with circular pattern, gold applied hour markers

Case
Platinum case
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30 m
Case diameter: 38.5 mm
Height: 10.23 mm

Strap
Calfskin, hand-stitched, navy blue
Fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Platinum Ref. 5270P-014

Patek Philippe has added a new platinum variant to its Perpetual Calendar Chronograph series with reference 5270.

For the new platinum Ref. 5270P-014 Chronograph with a perpetual calendar, Patek Philippe has opted for a green lacquered dial with a black gradation. This color theme is inspired by some of the most stunning vintage cars.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Platinum Ref. 5270P-014

The Patek Philippe 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph was introduced in 2011. This manual-wound watch from the Grand Complication range is equipped with the CH 29-535 PS Q caliber.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Platinum Ref. 5270P-014

It offers a power reserve of 65 hours with the chronograph disengaged. The 40mm diameter platinum case has a water resistance of 30 meters.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Platinum Ref. 5270P-014

Movement
Caliber CH 29‑535 PS Q
Manually wound mechanical movement
Diameter: 32 mm
Height: 7 mm
Number of parts: 456
Jewels: 33
Power reserve: With the chronograph disengaged: min. 55 hours – max. 65 hours. Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 28 800 (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Breguet
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Functions
Chronograph: Central chronograph hand and Instantaneous 30-minute counter
Perpetual Calendar: Day, month, leap year and day/night display in apertures. Date by hand
Moon phases
Seconds subdial

Case
Platinum case
Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 12.4 mm
Interchangeable full back and sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30 m

Dial
Laquered green dial with black-gradient rim
Gold applied hour markers

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny black
Fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5205R-011

Patek Philippe has launched a new version of the annual calendar watch Ref. 5205.

The new model (reference 5205R-011) in rose gold comes with a dial black-gradated to the periphery.

The Patek Philippe Ref. 5205 Annual Calendar was introduced in 2010. Equipped with the 324 S QA LU 24H/206 self-winding caliber, this timepiece displays the day, date and month through the three apertures.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5205R-011

This watch also indicates moon-phases and 24-h function. The maximum power reserve of the self-winding movement is 45 hours. The 40mm diameter case stands out with its concave bezel, hollowed flanks and skeletonized lugs.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5205R-011

The new Patek Philippe Ref. 5205-011 Annual Calendar model features a two-tone green hand-patinated alligator leather strap.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5205R-011

Movement
Caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/206
Self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter: 32.6 mm
Height: 5.78 mm
Number of parts: 356
Bridges: 10
Jewels: 34
Power reserve: min. 35 hours – max. 45 hours
Winding rotor: 21K gold central rotor
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 28 800 (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Case
Rose gold case
Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.36 mm
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30 m

Functions
Annual Calendar: Day, date and month in apertures
Moon phases
24-hour indication
Sweep seconds hand

Dial
Olive-green sunburst dial with black-gradient rim
Faceted gold applied hour markers

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, two tone green hand-patinated Prong buckle

Patek Philippe Ladies’ Moon Phases, Ref 7121/200G-001

The new Patek Philippe Ref 7121/200G-001 Ladies’ Moon Phases watch features an elegant white-gold case, a blue sunburst dial and a bezel adorned with two offset rows of brilliant-cut diamonds set with the “Dentelle” technique.

Patek Philippe Ladies’ Moon Phases, Ref 7121-200G-001

This glamorous Ladies’ Moon Phases timepiece is equipped with the Caliber 215 PS LU, a manual-wound movement with a power reserve of 44 hours.

Patek Philippe Ladies’ Moon Phases, Ref 7121-200G-001

Its 18K white gold case measures 33 mm diameter. This model comes with a blue alligator leather strap.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Ladies’ Moon Phases, Ref 7121/200G-001

Movement
Caliber 215 PS LU
Manually wound mechanical movement
Diameter: 21.9 mm
Height: 3 mm
Number of parts: 157
Jewels: 18
Power reserve: min. 39 hours, max. 44 hours
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 28 800 (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®

Functions
Moon phases
Small seconds

Dial
Blue sunburst dial with gold applied Breguet numerals

Case
White gold case
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30 m
Diameter: 33 mm
Height: 8.35 mm

Gem-setting
132 diamonds: ~1.09 cts. (bezel), “Dentelle” setting

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny blue
Prong buckle

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts World Time Ref. 5231G-001

Patek Philippe has released a new Rare Handcrafts version of the coveted World Time watch.

In the center of its dial, the new Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts World Time watch in white gold (reference 5231G-001) sports a new map in grand feu cloisonné enamel depicting Oceania and Southeast Asia.

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts World Time Ref. 5231G-001

The 38.5 mm diameter white gold case is water resistant to 30m. Inside beats the self-winding 240 HU mechanical movement. Fitted with a 22K gold off-center mini-rotor, this caliber provides a power reserve of 48 hours.

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts World Time Ref. 5231G-001

The Ref. 5231G-001 Rare Handcrafts World Time model comes with a matte navy blue alligator leather strap.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts World Time Ref. 5231G-001

Movement
Caliber 240 HU
Self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter: 27.5 mm
Height: 3.88 mm
Number of parts: 239
Bridges: 8
Jewels: 33
Power reserve: Min. 48 hours
22K gold off-center mini-rotor
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Patents: CH 595 653 and CH 693 191

Functions
World Time
24-hour and day/night indication for the 24 time zones

Dial
Grand Feu cloisonné enamel center: Oceania and South-East Asia, 4 gold splangles.

Case
White gold case
Diameter: 38.5 mm
Height: 10.23 mm
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30 m

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, matte navy blue
Fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 5172G-010

Patek Philippe presents a new vintage-themed chronograph model in white gold.

The new Ref. 5172G-010 Men’s Chronograph by Patek Philippe is inspired by the 1940-1950 models. It boasts an opaline rose gilt dial with two-counters and a tachymeter scale.

Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 5172G-010

This Patek Philippe Chronograph is equipped with the CH 29‑535 PS manually wound caliber, which incorporates six patented innovations such as optimized toothing profile, precision adjustment of engagement depth and self-regulating zero-resetting hammers.

Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 5172G-010

The Ref. 5172G-010 Patek Philippe Chronograph features a 41mm diameter case, fitted on a chocolate brown alligator strap.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 5172G-010

Movement
Caliber CH 29‑535 PS
Mechanical manually wound movement
Diameter: 29.6 mm
Height: 5.35 mm
Number of parts: 270
Bridges: 11
Jewels: 33
Power reserve: With the chronograph disengaged: min. 65 hours
Balance: Gyromax®. Vibrations/hour: 28 800 (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Breguet
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Functions
Chronograph: Central chronograph hand and Instantaneous 30-minute counter
Small seconds

Case
White gold case
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30 m
Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 11.45 mm

Dial
Rose-gilt opaline, charcoal gray gold applied numerals with luminescent coating
Tachymeter scale

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny chocolate brown
Fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G-001

This new Patek Philippe Calatrava watch features a refined white gold case guilloched with a hobnail pattern or “Clous de Paris” on the entire circumference of the case band.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G-001

The charcoal gray vintage-inspired dial features a black-gradient rim. Its slightly grainy texture is inspired by antique camera cases.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G-001

The numeral hour-markers, the hour-hand and the minute-hand are applied with a luminescent coating that offer green glow in the absence of light.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G-001

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G-001 watch is powered by the self-winding caliber 26-330 S C equipped with a stop seconds function. It displays the hour, minute, centre-seconds and date (at 3H).

Patek Philippe Calatrava white gold Ref. 5226G-001

This new white gold Calatrava watch comes with a beige calfskin strap with nubuck finish. An additional strap in black calfskin featuring embossed fabric pattern will be provided with each timepiece.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G-001

Movement
Caliber 26‑330 S C
Self-winding mechanical movement

Functions
Date in an aperture
Sweep seconds

Case
White gold case
Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 8.53 mm
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30 m

Dial
Textured charcoal gray dial with black gradient rim
Gold applied numerals with beige luminescent coating

Strap
Calfskin, nubuck finish, hand-stitched, beige
Additional strap: Calfskin, embossed with fabric pattern, hand-stitched, black
Prong buckle

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5320G-011

Patek Philippe presents a new version of the reference 5320 Perpetual Calendar watch.

The new white gold Perpetual Calendar with three-tiered lugs (Ref. 5320G-011) is inspired by the elements of a model from 1945. It features a vintage-themed opaline rose gilt dial.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5320G-011

The Patek Philippe Ref. 5320 series Perpetual Calendar was introduced in 2017. It houses the 324 S Q self-winding movement. Comprising 367 parts (including 29 jewels), this caliber has a maximum power reserve rating for 45 hours.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5320G-011

The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5320G-011 is fitted on a chocolate brown alligator leather strap.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5320G-011

Movement
Caliber 324 S Q, self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter: 32 mm
Height: 4.97 mm
Number of parts: 367
Jewels: 29
Power reserve: min. 35 hours – max. 45 hours
Winding rotor: 21K gold central rotor
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 28 800 (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Functions
Perpetual calendar: Day, month, leap year and day/night indication in apertures. Date by hand
Moon phases
Sweep seconds

Case
White gold case
Interchangeable full back and sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30 m
Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.13 mm

Dial
Rose-gilt opaline dial
Charcoal gray gold applied numerals with luminescent coating

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny chocolate brown
Fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374-300P-001

Patek Philippe has launched a high-jewellery version of the Ref. 5374 Grand Complication with minute repeater and perpetual calendar. The platinum case and bezel of the new Patek Philippe 5374/300P-001 are paved with baguette-cut diamonds.

Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374/300P-001

This new reference comes with a stunning the blue-lacquered dial. The flange is set with baguette-cut diamond minute markers and baguette-cut blue sapphire hour markers.

The Patek Philippe 5374/300P-001 Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar is equipped with the self-winding caliber R 27 Q. Its Minute repeater mechanism with “cathedral” gongs emits a deep, rich sound.

Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374/300P-001

The watch is adorned with a total of 228 baguette-cut diamonds (11.62 cts) and 13 baguette-cut sapphires (0.72 ct).

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374/300P-001

Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement
Caliber R 27 Q

Functions
Minute repeater with “cathedral” gongs
Perpetual calendar
Day, date, month, leap year and 24-hour indication by hands
Moon phases

Case
Platinum case
Interchangeable solid and sapphire crystal case backs
Humidity- and dust-protected only (not water-resistant)
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 12.28 mm

Dial
Blue-lacquered, black-gradient rim
Sapphire hour markers and diamond minute markers
18K gold dial plate

Bracelet
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny dusk blue
Diamond-set fold-over clasp

Gem-setting
Bezel and flange: 120 diamonds (7.1 ct)
Flange hour-markers: 13 sapphires (0.72 ct)
Case-band and slide: 86 diamonds (3.5 ct)
Clasp: 22 diamonds (1.02 ct)
Total of 228 baguette-cut diamonds (11.62 cts) and 13 baguette-cut sapphires (0.72 ct)

Patek Philippe Ladies’ World Time Ref. 7130R-014

The iconic Patek Philippe World Time watch is available in a new ladies’ rose gold version with a timeless green dial.

The dial center is adorned with a finely hand-guilloched basket weave motif. The rose gold bezel is adorned with 62 diamonds (~0.82 ct).

Patek Philippe Ladies’ World Time Ref. 7130R-014

The Patek Philippe reference 7130R World Time series was introduced in 2011. The ultra-thin self-winding caliber 240 HU simultaneously displays the time in all 24 time zones. An exclusive patented mechanism enables all the indications to be corrected with a single press of the pusher at 10 o’clock when changing time zones.

Patek Philippe Ladies’ World Time Ref. 7130R-014

The new Patek Philippe Ref. 7130R-014 Ladies’ World Time watch is delivered with an olive green calfskin strap with a diamond-set prong buckle.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Ref. 7130R-014 Ladies’ World Time

Movement
Caliber 240 HU
Self-winding mechanical movement

Functions
World Time
24-hour and day/night indication for the 24 time zones

Dial
Olive green, hand-guilloched with old-basket weave motif
Gold applied hour markers

Case
Rose gold case
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30 m
Case diameter: 36 mm
Height: 8.83 mm

Gem-setting
Bezel set with 62 diamonds (~0.82 ct)
Prong buckle set with 27 diamonds (~0.21 ct.).

Bracelet
Calfskin, hand-stitched, shiny olive green
Prong buckle

Patek Philippe Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time

In this new timepiece, Patek Philippe combines two of its outstanding patented complications: the Annual Calendar and the Travel Time system for the display of a second time zone.

The date display is synchronized with the respective local time. It simultaneously adjusts the date when the time zone is corrected. The new self-winding caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement is endowed with eight patents.

For this model, the manufacture created a totally new Calatrava case. Its flanks are guilloched with the inimitable hobnail pattern and its dial is framed in the vintage genre inspired by old photo cameras. The same unique design also graces the Ref. 5226G-001 Calatrava, a watch without an additional complication powered by the self-winding caliber 26-330 S C movement.

For Patek Philippe, the technical perfection and aesthetic beauty of a timepiece have always had the same significance. The composition of the movement, case, and dial is always in the focus of the manufacture’s creations.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

With its self-winding movement that features two exclusive functions, its round Calatrava case with unique design and decorative features, and an inimitable dial, the new Ref. 5326G-00 Annual Calendar Travel Time delivers a perfect example of an approach that combines all facets of watchmaking artistry with balanced elegance.

In 1996, Patek Philippe merged all of its Genevan ateliers in Plan-les-Ouates under one roof and attracted attention with the launch of its patented Annual Calendar. It is a full calendar with day/date/month that only has to be manually corrected once a year on March 1.

To develop the system that automatically distinguishes between months with 30 and 31 days, the engineers designed an innovative mechanism based largely on wheels and pinions. Since then, the Annual Calendar has become a highlight among the manufacture’s complicated watches.

Today, it comes in a broad selection of ladies’ and men’s wristwatches and is also available in several self-winding flyback chronograph model versions. In the Ref. 5033, Patek Philippe even combined the Annual Calendar with a minute repeater movement.

It was followed in 1997 by a new technical launch, this time in the domain of travel timepieces. The exclusive Travel Time mechanism features a clutch based on a Patek Philippe patent granted in 1959. The ingenious system indicates a second time zone with a second hour hand from the center.

With two pushers in the left-hand case flank, it can be adjusted in one-hour increments in both directions without affecting the precise rate of the movement. Today, the Travel Time function is also available in various watch models, including the self-winding Ref. 5990 Flyback Chronograph or the Ref. 5520 Alarm Travel Time.

For the first time, Patek Philippe has extended its range of useful complications by combining the Annual Calendar and the Travel Time in one watch. The manufacture departed from the ultra-thin self-winding caliber 31-260 that had been launched in 2011 in the Ref. 5235 Annual Calendar Regulator (31-260 REG QA) and was then reworked in 2021 for the Ref. 5236 In-line Perpetual Calendar (31-260 PS QL).

Among the optimized features introduced in 2021, the new caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement retains the 20% gain in barrel torque, the increased winding power of the minirotor thanks to the use of platinum, the frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 semi-oscillations per hour), and a reduction wheel that uncouples automatic winding when the watch is manually wound, which reduces wear. Energy-wise, the performance of the new movement was further improved by a minute wheel suspended between bearing jewels to increase efficiency.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

The connection between the Annual Calendar and the Travel Time function involved several technical challenges. The issue wasn’t just to accommodate both mechanisms in the same case. They had to interact in such a way that the displayed date corresponded with local time, hence the time at the location of the wearer of the watch.

And it may need to be adjusted when the time zone is corrected. Thus, in the new caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement, the Annual Calendar is controlled by the Travel Time function and it is the local-time hour wheel that drives the calendar. Connoisseurs will be delighted to note that the principle of the Ref. 5531 World Time Minute Repeater (2017) has been retained. It is the first minute repeater that always sounds local time because the World Time mechanism controls the minute repeater.

For the new Ref. 5326G-001, Patek Philippe redesigned the Travel Time function as well. While the basic principle with two hour hands from the center is retained (solid hand for local time, pierced hand for home time), the two common time zone pushers in the left-hand case flank were replaced with a winding-stem setting mechanism that has three positions. It premiered in 2021 with the Aquanaut Luce Travel Time (Ref. 5269/200R-001).

The user merely needs to pull the crown to the middle position and then turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to adjust the local-time hour hand in one-hour increments in either direction without affecting the precise rate of the movement.

Aesthetic reasons favored the decision for this discrete crown setting system: Patek Philippe wanted a sleek design in the Calatrava style to emphasize the special motif on the case flanks. Setting the time in the home-time zone is done in the classic manner with the crown in the outermost position.

The caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement has a stop-seconds mechanism that allows the time to be set with one-second accuracy. This function is only active while the crown is pulled to the outermost position. This prevents the movement from stopping when selecting a new time zone and preserves the rate accuracy of the movement. When the owner is not traveling, the two hour hands can be superposed with the crown and will then look like one hand.

To make sure the watch always displays the date that matches the respective local time, the engineers also had to modify the Annual Calendar mechanism.

In a conventional annual calendar, the display advance around midnight lasts about 90 minutes, so a date misalignment could occur if the time zone is adjusted in this time span. To assure that users see the correct date longer, Patek Philippe’s engineers shortened the display advance of the Annual Calendar discs by a factor of 5 to about 18 minutes.

Thanks to a cam system with partial toothing connected to the hour wheel, the 24-hour wheel executes its rotation in four phases instead of continuously: 180° rotation in 3 hours (toward midnight), 9 hours of standstill, 180° rotation in 3 hours (toward noon), 9 hours of standstill. This improves the coordination of the calendar switching phase with local time. But the word acceleration also suggests higher energy consumption.

To optimize the efficiency, precision, durability, safety, and operating convenience of the caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement, the engineers developed several innovations that resulted in eight patent applications. For instance, these technical refinements make it possible to reduce the energy consumption and wear of certain components, to switch from the 30th to the 1st and from the 1st to the 30th without desynchronizing the calendar when adjusting the time zone, to prevent shifts and double jumps of the displays or avoid damaging parts of the movement if the moon phase, the month, or the day of the week are corrected in a time frame during which this is explicitly inadvisable.

The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the architecture of the caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement with the elegantly cut and gently curved bridges. It affords a better view of the wheels of the base movement and the exquisite manually executed finissage that reflects the strict directives of the Patek Philippe Seal.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

The newly designed white-gold case has a diameter of 41 millimeters. With its slightly chamfered bezel and the polished, inclined lugs, it underscores the sleek and timeless elegance of the Calatrava design yet expresses its very own distinctive personality.

The case middle displays Patek Philippe’s signature hobnail motif along its entire circumference. The subtly shining pattern of tiny pyramids was showcased on the bezel of the famous Ref. 3919 Calatrava “Clous de Paris” in 1985; it was produced for over 20 years and became one of the best-known models of the watch world. In 2021, it experienced a strong comeback in the new, highly contemporary Ref. 6119 Calatrava “Clous de Paris” that is made in rose gold and white gold.

On the case of the Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time, it provides a new perspective of this very refined element of the Patek Philippe style. To allow the hobnail pattern to so elegantly adorn the complete flank of the caseband, Patek Philippe conceived an exceptional case design in which the strap lugs are attached to the case back.

The vintage-style dial is crafted entirely by Cadrans Flückiger in Saint-Imier, a dial specialist which has belonged to Patek Philippe since 2004.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

The dial is charcoal gray with a fine gradation to the periphery and has a slightly granular structure that is reminiscent of the cases of old photo cameras. The time of day is shown by applied Arabic numerals in white gold with beige luminous coatings.

The hours of local time and the minutes are displayed with luminous white-gold “Seringue” hands that with their long tips resemble syringes. A pierced “Seringue” hand indicates the hours of home time. The three apertures of the Annual Calendar – day of the week and month on one line at 12 o’clock, date at 6 o’clock – show easily legible black inscriptions on white backgrounds.

Two small round windows marked “LOCAL” at 8 o’clock and “HOME” at 4 o’clock are day/night indicators for local time and home time, respectively. This balanced arrangement is complemented by the subsidiary seconds that sweeps the moon-phase aperture at 6 o’clock.

The calendar indications can be adjusted with the aid of small correctors in the caseband located near the respective functions: day at 10, month at 2, date at 4 and moon phases at 8 o’clock. The vintage aspect is emphasized with a slightly raised box-design sapphire-crystal glass.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

The new Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time is delivered with two interchangeable straps, one beige calfskin with nubuck texture (original version), the other black calfskin with embossed textile finish and beige decorative stitching (additional strap).

The eight patents of the new caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement

Time-setting with three crown positions (Swiss patent application CH 716383 A2): This time-setting system has a lever with three positions that can deactivate certain wheels as long as they are not performing any correction. This reduces energy consumption and wear of the respective wheels. The result is a gain for the balance amplitude (rate accuracy) and for reliability

Forward/backward mechanism for the Annual Calendar (European patent application EP 3776095 A1): This system relies mainly on the addition of a tooth and a spring on the month lever that allows the transition from the 30th to the 1st and from the 1st to the 30th without desynchronizing the date. Therefore, the user can easily switch the time zone forward or backward with the winding stem.

Linear time-zones spring (European patent EP 3650953 B1): This system consists of a star wheel and a jumper spring. It allows a strong torque increase between the local time hour wheel and the home time hour wheel and thus an acceleration of the date jumps despite the increase in energy consumption. It provides the user with more precise information.

Pivotable holding bridge (European patent applications EP 3714336 A1 and 070431/2021): This system keeps the day disc in position without the use of a center screw. To remove the disc, the watchmaker merely needs to pivot the bridge to the side. This releases the star without requiring the disassembly of the movement and without any modification of the settings. This timesaving and simplification is part of the improvements in watch maintenance.

Inertial delta (European patent application EP 3822711 A1): This mechanism offsets the inertia difference between a heavier and a lighter wheel. When the time zone is being corrected in either direction, it prevents an unintended forward or backward misalignment of the time displays (home time, local time, minutes). This increases the accuracy of the displays.

Braking mechanism for the date disc when a correction is made (European patent application EP 3882716 A1): This system with an additional spring (brake) is only active when the crown is pulled to the middle position. It prevents double jumps of the date disc if the user exerts too much force. It safeguards the greater reliability of the mechanism (amplitude gain and wear reduction).

Flexible correctors (European patent application 20205322.9): With a system of flexible leaf springs for switching protection purposes, this mechanism prevents the risk of a material failure when the user performs a correction during an unfavorable time window. This improves the reliability and longevity of the movement.

Technical details

Model: Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time

Movement
Caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H
Self-winding mechanical movement. Annual Calendar with aperture displays for the day, date, and month. Two Travel Time zones (local time and home time) with day/night indicators for local and home time
Moon phases and small seconds
Diameter: 33 mm
Inside case diameter: 31.74 mm
Height: 5.6 mm (2.6 mm for the base movement, 3 mm for the Annual Calendar and Travel Time module)
Number of parts: 409
Number of jewels: 47
Power reserve: Min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
Winding rotor: Off-center minirotor in 950 platinum, unidirectional winding
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance: Gyromax®
Balance spring: Spiromax® in Silinvar®
Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Functions
3-position crown
• Pushed home: manual winding
• Pulled to middle position: Setting of local time in either direction in one-hour steps
• Pulled all the way out: Setting of home time with hours and minutes, stop seconds

Displays
With hands:
• Hour hands for local and home time and minute hand from the center
• Subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock
In apertures:
• Day and month on one line at 12 o’clock
• Date at 6 o’clock
• Day/night indicator for local time at 8 o’clock
• Day/night indicator for home time at 4 o’clock
• Moon phases at 6 o’clock

Correctors
Month at 2 o’clock
Date at 4 o’clock
Moon phases at 8 o’clock
Day of week at 10 o’clock

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
18K white gold
Sapphire-crystal case back
Water resistant to 30 m (3 bar)
Case dimensions: Diameter: 41 mm
Height (crystal to display back): 11.07 mm

Dial
Granular, charcoal gray with black gradation to the periphery
Applied numerals in 18K white gold with beige luminous coating
Railway track minute scale and beige printed markers
Seringue hands for local time hours and minutes, 18K white gold with beige luminous coating
Pierced Seringue hand for home time hours, 18K white gold, lacquered beige
Small seconds with dagger hand, 18k white gold lacquered beige

Straps
Calfskin with nubuck finish, hand-stitched, beige
Delivered with additional calfskin strap with embossed textile pattern, black with beige decorative stitching
Fold-over clasp in 18K white gold

Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph

Patek Philippe has launched its first wrist chronograph for tenths-of-a-second short-time measurements with a new, very precise high-performance movement.

With this new grand complication watch, the Geneva manufacture presents a manually wound movement with two separate chronograph mechanisms and sweep hands. One of them indicates tenths of a second – precisely and very crisply. This high-tech high-frequency caliber (5 Hz) incorporates 31 patents, of which seven new patents are specific to the new mechanism.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

Featuring a platinum case with a blue dial and red accents, this tenth-of-a-second monopusher chronograph will be produced in small series due to the complexity involved in producing such extremely complicated timepieces.

At Patek Philippe, chronographs have a rich, long-standing tradition. Since 1856, the manufacture has stood out with the sublime assets of its pocket chronographs with or without rattrapante hands, often in combination with other complications such as perpetual calendars or minute repeaters.

In ca, 1930–1931, the manufacture even developed a pocket watch with a tenth-of-a-second chronograph; today, it can be admired in the Patek Philippe Museum (Inv. P-340).

As early as 1923, in response to a commission, Patek Philippe had already crafted its first split-seconds chronograph. This single piece was followed starting in 1927 by the first regularly produced wrist chronographs with or without rattrapante hands, among them the legendary Ref. 130 which was made from 1934 onward to the early 1960s.

The first decades of the third millennium were particularly prolific in the field of short-time measurement. As from 2005, Patek Philippe developed an extensive suite of chronograph movements with and without additional complications (rattrapante hands, minute repeaters, perpetual calendars, Annual Calendars, World Time) that were all designed and crafted in the manufacture’s ateliers.

These chronograph movements feature numerous innovations and patented optimizations. Today, they are embedded in a regular collection with over 20 different models for ladies and gentlemen.

A condensate of mechanical achievements

To further push the boundaries of mechanical horology and delight the aficionados of highly technical timepieces, Patek Philippe decided to develop its first movement for a wrist chronograph that can measure and display tenths of a second.

For this purpose, the engineers relied on one of the in-house movements that had been developed during the past twenty years. It was the caliber CH 29-535 PS launched in 2009; it reflects traditional architecture (manually wound, column-wheel control, horizontal wheel clutch) enhanced with six patented innovations and is complemented by its split-seconds version with two sweep chronograph hands (CHR 29-535 PS).

Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

The first task was to increase the frequency of the movement. With a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 semi-oscillations per hour that let the movement and the chronograph hands execute 8 jumps per second), the caliber CH 29-535 PS can merely measure eights of a second.

Conversely, the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 beats at a frequency of 5 Hz (36,000 semi-oscillations per hour for 10 jumps per second) and thus allows the measurement of tenths of a second. This is a premiere for a Patek Philippe wrist chronograph but it also requires more energy.

But a sweep seconds hand alone and a frequency of 5 Hz would not be sufficient to display tenths of a second with the desired accuracy. The dial of a wristwatch does not provide enough space for a scale with a microscopically tight tenths-of-a-second graduation.

The designers thus resolved to provide the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 with two independent chronograph mechanisms: one for the seconds and the instantaneous 30-minute counter, the other exclusively for measuring and displaying stopped tenths of a second.

A patented concentric display

With this decision, Patek Philippe opted for good legibility. In keeping with the manufacture’s customer-centric creation philosophy, it was essential to assure the ideally organized, fast and dependable readability of the tenths of a second, the seconds, and minutes of the chronograph.

The engineers therefore conceived a patented system that displays the measured seconds and the fractions of a second concentrically. The watch features two sweep chronograph hands, each of them driven by an independent mechanism. The hand that performs a complete revolution per minute shows the stopped seconds in the traditional manner.

The other hand (lacquered red in the new Ref. 5470P-001) performs one revolution per 12 seconds, i.e. five times faster than an ordinary chronograph hand and sweeps across 12 sectors subdivided into tenths.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

In this way, the user can immediately read the elapsed seconds guided by the pearl markers and then, on the outer railway track scale, read the number of elapsed tenths of a second departing from the last red marker. The minutes of the short-time measurement are displayed by the instantaneous 30-minute counter on the subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock.

Given so much simplicity in use, the patented system’s heart is a true treasure chest of ingenious solutions in the movement but out of sight. As usual, Patek Philippe raised the bar and specified that the new caliber should meet ambitious requirements in every respect.

The watch should not only be able to measure and display tenths of a second but also retain this precision during a 30-minute run of the chronograph.

Additionally, the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 had to be built as compactly as possible while retaining the diameter of the base caliber (29.6 mm) and allowing only a slight height increase (from 5.35 mm to 6.96 mm) – despite the two chronograph mechanisms and a total of 396 parts. As a true accomplishment in miniaturization, this new movement is even shorter than the rattrapante caliber CHR 29-535 PS (7.1 mm).

Energy control and high precision

The Patek Philippe Grand Complication thus created is as complex as a tourbillon, a minute repeater or a split-seconds chronograph. For the frequency of 5 Hz and the integration of a second chronograph mechanism with a high-speed hand, the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 requires considerably more energy.

To master and limit this energy appetite, the engineers had to intervene at all nooks and crannies of the movement. And of course, the term “precision” dominated the entire development of the movement.

The challenge began with a single mainspring that was needed to provide energy for the whole movement. Patek Philippe reworked this component and increased its efficiency to preserve the amplitude of the balance spring as much as possible and to assure optimized rate stability.

To increase the available energy and boost the power reserve, the diameter of the barrel arbor was reduced and the number of mainspring coils increased. A patented notch reduces the tension of the slip bridle during the winding process, thus eliminating the risk of damage due to the increased force.

A high-tech regulator mechanism

To handle the three challenges – efficiency, reliability, and rate accuracy – Patek Philippe decided to use its Oscillomax® ensemble that had been developed by the “Patek Philippe Advanced Research” department.

This high-tech regulator mechanism was presented in 2011, was granted 17 patents, and has three innovative components that rely on all advantages of the Silinvar® technology – it is based on a derivative of silicon with extraordinary physical and mechanical characteristics (lightweight, rugged, antimagnetic, etc.).

The ensemble operates with a Spiromax® balance spring with a patented terminal curve and an inner boss (patent granted in 2017, Ref. 5650), a Pulsomax® escapement consisting of a lever and escape wheel with extensively reworked geometries as well as a Gyromax® balance in Silinvar® with gold inlays.

This is the first time since the launch of the Perpetual Calendar Patek Philippe Advanced Research Ref. 5550P (2011) that Patek Philippe has added the Oscillomax® ensemble in its current collection.

But this decision plays a decisive role for the exceptional performance of the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 movement. And it enables the high rate accuracy with a maximum deviation of -3/+2 seconds per day specified by the Patek Philippe Seal – despite the clearly higher energy consumption of the movement.

Fluid and perfectly synchronized hand movements

Another big challenge arose during the development of the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 regarding the quality of the display, particularly of the tenths of a second. The two chronograph displays must be perfectly synchronized. Despite the high speed of rotation, the tenth-of-a-second hand must move fluidly without jumps or vibrations. Here, too, the manufacture’s engineers developed and implemented innovative solutions.

The mechanism for displaying the tenths of a second receives its energy via a driving wheel from the fourth wheel of the base movement. Patek Philippe designed the driving wheel in a novel two-part arrangement: the upper wheel with flexible spokes, the lower one with rigid spokes.

Thanks to this patented anti-backlash principle that is both compact and energy-saving, the teeth of the driving wheel exert an elastic force on the clutch wheel, eliminating any risk of hand vibration.

As soon as the chronograph is started, the tenth-of-a-second driving wheel (with one revolution per minute) engages with the tenth-of-a-second pinion that performs one revolution in 12 seconds (turning five times faster).

To enable this “acceleration”, Patek Philippe provided the tenth-of-a-second pinion with microtoothing: 136 teeth on a pinion diameter of 1.469 mm and with a tooth height of 30 μm. The pretensioning force exerted by the clutch wheel on the pinion suppresses tooth backlash. Many individual measures maximize the accuracy of the display.

A proven shock absorber

Another indispensable measure needed for a user-centric solution relates to the shock absorber. The new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 had to handle all requirements and risks to which it would be exposed in daily use.

For this purpose, Patek Philippe developed two patented mechanisms. One of them is a shock absorber hook that would secure the clutch rocker during the entire short-time measurement process.

The second one uses the “unbalances” (centers of gravity, not to be confused with centers of rotation) of components of the mechanism for the tenths-of-a-second chronograph. In the event of a shock, the acceleration values of the components exposed to it are compensated instead of being cumulated. The result is that all components remain in the desired positions, eliminating any impact on the correct function of the watch.

A monopusher chronograph

The chronograph has a single pusher at 2 o’clock that successively executes the start, stop, and reset commands. This monopusher arrangement recalls the classic chronographs and will delight the aficionados of technical timepieces.

In addition to the patented special features of the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10, the new watch embodies the seamless pairing of tradition and innovation that constitutes the core of the Patek philosophy.

The sapphire-crystal case back (interchangeable with the solid platinum back delivered with the watch) affords a spectacular view of the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 with its filigreed components and the elaborately executed finissage (bridges with chamfered and polished edges, Geneva striping, etc.). The engraved, gilt inscriptions “Oscillomax 5 Hz” and “GyromaxSi” on the bridges refer to the innovative movement components.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

A movement dedicated entirely to performance and short-time measurements needs to be well protected so Patek Philippe created an inimitably sporty exterior. To case this condensate of technical prowess, the manufacture chose platinum, the most precious metal but also the most difficult one to machine.

The gently rounded case has the same design as the manually wound Ref. 5370 Split Seconds Chronograph launched in 2015. As a special feature, it has a concave bezel that forms a perfect transition to the slightly domed sapphire-crystal glass.

The case flanks are slightly recessed and satin-finished, the lugs are subtly curved and feature decorative cabochons at the ends of the spring bars. Like all of Patek Philippe’s platinum models, the Ref. 5470P-001 is adorned with a flawless brilliant-cut diamond between the lugs at 6 o’clock.

The elegant blue of the dial harmonizes exceptionally well with the shimmering reflections of the platinum case, at the same time offering the perfect contrast for the crisp legibility of the individual displays.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

The chronograph seconds are indicated with a sandblasted and rhodiumed steel hand on a minute scale with small gold pearls. The tenths of a second are displayed with a slender hand in Silinvar®.

Because it is so lightweight, the high-tech material saves energy but has the rigidity needed to withstand the shock that occurs when the chronograph is abruptly stopped.

Thanks to a new patented process for decorating the Silinvar® hand, in this case lacquered red, and a second patent concerning the attachment of the pipe to the Silinvar® hand by brazing, Patek Philippe succeeded for the first time in using the promising material for external features of a watch.

The red color of the hand is also echoed on the markers of the railway-track scale for reading tenths of a second. As long as the chronograph is not operating, the red and gray chronograph hands are superposed and look like a single hand. Once a short-time measurement has been started with the pusher at 2 o’clock, it launches its fascinating ballet with two separate rotation speeds.

The instantaneous 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and the small seconds at 9 o’clock have crisp railway-track scales to improve the legibility of the respective information.

The new 5470P-001 is worn on a navy blue calfskin strap with an embossed fabric pattern and red decorative seams in perfect harmony with the colors of the dial. Its fold-over clasp in platinum assures comfort and safety on the wrist.

The seven patents of the new caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 movement

  1. Concentric display (Patent WO2012104688A1): This display mode based on two sweep hands assures simple, swift, and safe legibility of seconds and fractions of a second.
  2. Notch in the barrel arbor (Patent WO2017005394A1): The addition of this notch reduces the tension on the spring hook while the mainspring is being wound. It also allows a smaller diameter of the barrel arbor, increasing the energy stored in the mainspring by further spring coils.
  3. 1/10 driving wheel with anti-backlash feature (European patent application EP3042250A1): This design on two levels (an upper wheel with flexible spokes and a lower one with rigid spokes) allows the creation of an anti-backlash wheel that is compact and consumes little energy.
  4. Chronograph with shock-absorber hook (Patent WO2015173372A2): In the event of a shock, this system securely holds the clutch rocker of the operating chronograph mechanism to prevent disruptions of the ongoing short-time measurement.
  5. Pendulum shock absorber (Swiss Patent CH713473A2): This system utilizes the acceleration forces of shocks on the watch to keep the components of a mechanism in the desired position and thus to assure correct functionality.
  6. Surface primer for the silicon hand (European patent application EP3764167A1): With a fine primer coating (e.g. PVD or CVD), this process improves the adhesion of lacquer on a silicon-oxide surface (Silinvar®).
  7. Assembly process for watch components (European patent EP 3309624 B1): Thanks to a multi-layer metal coating, this process for joining two base materials, one of which non-metallic, allows the pipe of a Silinvar® hand to be brazed.

These patents are complemented by the six patented innovations for the caliber CH 29-535 PS introduced in 2009, the 17 patents for the development of the high-tech Oscillomax® ensemble (2011), and the patent for the optimized Spiromax® balance spring with a terminal curve and an inner boss (2017). The caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 unites a total of 31 inventions developed and patented by Patek Philippe.

Technical details

Model: Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph

Movement
Caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10
Manually wound mechanical movement, chronograph with column-wheel control, horizontal dual clutch with wheels and instantaneous 30-minute counter, module for tenths-of-a-second measurements of the chronograph with sweep hand, small seconds
Diameter: 29.6 mm
Height: 6.96 mm
Number of parts: 396
Number of jewels: 38
Power reserve: Min. 48 hours (with chronograph switched off)
Balance: Gyromax® in Silinvar® with inlays in 99.9% gold
Frequency: 36,000 semi-oscillations per hour (5 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax® in Silinvar®
Escapement: Pulsomax® with lever and escape wheel in Silinvar®
Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Functions
2-position crown
– Pushed in: To wind the watch
– Pulled out: To set the time and stop seconds

Displays
Center hour and minute hands
Chronograph hand and tenths-of-a-second chronograph hand from the center
30-minute counter at 6 o’clock
Subsidiary seconds at 9 o’clock

Pushers
Chronograph start, stop, and reset at 2 o’clock

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
950 platinum
Sapphire-crystal case back and interchangeable solid platinum back
Flawless rare white Top Wesselton diamond between the lugs at 6 o’clock
Water resistant to 30 m (3 bar)
Diameter: 41 mm
Height (crystal to display back): 13.68 mm

Dial
Brass, lacquered blue
Applied Breguet numerals in 18K white gold and minute pearl markers
Railway track scale printed white and red (minutes, snailed small seconds at 9 o’clock, snailed 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock)
Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands in 18K white gold with luminous coating
Small seconds with sword hand in 18K white gold
Chronograph hand, sandblasted steel, rhodiumed
Tenths-of-a-second chronograph hand in red lacquered Silinvar®
30-minute counter with sword hand in 18K white gold

Strap
Calfskin with embossed fabric pattern, hand-stitched, navy blue with red contrast seams, fold-over clasp in 950 platinum

Patek Philippe Ref. 5750 “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater

Patek Philippe presents a state-of-the-art Minute Repeater watch developed by its “Advanced Research” department.

For this new acoustic complication watch, Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” has developed a totally new all-mechanical sound amplifying system. This fortissimo “ff” module consists of a flexibly suspended sound lever and an oscillating wafer made of transparent sapphire-crystal glass. In comparison with conventional minute repeaters and regardless of the case material, it delivers clearly amplified sound of excellent acoustic quality.

Carrying four patents, the ground-breaking technology is presented in the Ref. 5750 “Advanced Research” minute repeater, a special limited edition consisting of 15 watches cased in platinum and endowed with a unique dial design.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5750 “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater
Patek Philippe Ref. 5750 “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater

Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” Innovations for Minute repeaters

(1) A sound amplification system with a sapphire-crystal oscillating wafer

Departing from the famous self-winding caliber R 27, the movement with which Patek Philippe in 1989 ushered in the grand comeback of the minute repeater, the engineers and designers at Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” searched for a way to amplify the volume of the time strike in a purely mechanical manner while preserving the excellent acoustic quality as well as the smallest possible dimensions.

After several technical forays in various directions, they decided to preserve the design of the base movement and then on the bridge side (the side facing the wrist) to add a module that works like a mechanical loudspeaker. But unlike normal loudspeakers, the amplification of the sound does not rely on a flexible diaphragm which like the skin of a drum is attached along its periphery. Instead of a membrane, the system for which Patek Philippe registered three patents has an oscillating wafer made of synthetic sapphire with a thickness of 0.2 mm.

Thanks to its angular motion, this rigid and freely movable wafer provides clearly better sound propagation for the confined volume of a wristwatch. The transparency of the sapphire glass also preserves the unobstructed view of the movement through the case back. To implement this heavily miniaturized system, the developers had to master considerable challenges, both in design and in production.

(2) A flexibly suspended sound lever

To achieve sound transmission from the gongs of the minute repeater to the sapphire-glass oscillating wafer, the engineers developed a system with a steel sound lever that is attached in the middle of the oscillating wafer. The other end of this sound lever that resembles a tuning fork features a flexible attachment with a thickness of 0.08 mm.

When the hammers strike the gongs, their oscillations are transmitted to the sound lever which in a first phase amplifies them and transmits them to the rigid oscillating wafer where they are further amplified. The angular motion of the oscillating wafer excites the air layers above and beneath the sapphire glass, producing a noticeably louder sound.

(3) A new type of sound propagation

Parallel to the integration of the fortissimo “ff” amplifier module, the team also developed a totally new sound propagation system. In a classic minute repeater, the strikes of the hammers on the gongs create oscillations of the entire watch. The sound is propagated on all sides by the case, the back, and the crystal glass.

Therefore, the case material has a significant influence on the sound, whereby rose gold is considered the best precious metal for sound propagation while platinum, with its higher material density, presents the greatest acoustic challenge. In the minute repeater with the fortissimo module, an insulation rim made of a high-tech composite material acoustically uncouples the amplifier from the movement. The sound is first routed to the sound lever and then to the oscillating wafer and subsequently propagated through four openings at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock in a titanium ring.

The sound waves exit through a narrow slot between the case back and the case band. A dust filter protects the movement without affecting the sound. So the case material does not influence the sound and its propagation. It is always of the same quality, regardless of whether the case material is rose, yellow, or white gold or platinum.

(4) A distinctly louder and totally harmonious sound

The fortissimo module attached in the case back allows the sound to be heard at a six-fold larger distance. So a classic minute repeater on the wrist, at a distance of 10 m, sounds as loud and clear as an amplified minute repeater at a distance of 60 m. The manufacture also leveraged its rich experience in the domain of chiming watches to create a reverberating sound that also pleases the ear; this requires considerable dexterity and acute hearing.

Even though the sound amplified by the fortissimo module differs slightly from that of other minute repeaters, it offers the harmonic quality and acoustic richness that underpin the unique reputation of Patek Philippe minute repeaters and arouse enthusiasm with a long resonant fade out relative to the “attack” (hardness). Additionally, the maximum duration of the time strike (32 strikes at 12:59) – it usually lasts 17 to 18 seconds – was extended to 20 to 21 seconds, allowing the gongs to fade somewhat longer.

(5) Platinum components

Apart from the additional fortissimo module, the caliber R 27 PS benefits from further technical enhancements with respect to materials and design factors. The minute repeater hammers, originally in steel, were replaced with platinum hammers, a patented solution that in this specific case improves the quality of the strike in line with the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal and produces a softer strike as well without reducing its sonority. A minirotor in platinum replaces the eccentrically recessed minirotor in 22K gold; thanks to the greater material density, it delivers the same winding power with a thinner design. With it, the thickness of the fortissimo module can at least be partially offset.

Ref. 5750P Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater

The Ref. 5750P Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” minute repeater comes in a sleek case with a slightly domed bezel. It is inspired by the Ref. 5178 minute repeater with cathedral gongs, has the same diameter of 40 mm. However, with a height of 11.1 mm, it is 0.57 mm thicker. To demonstrate the efficiency of the fortissimo system, the manufacture opted for platinum, the material that poses the greatest acoustic challenges. It is a limited edition of 15 watches.

In its center, the five-part elaborately constructed dial features an openworked motif inspired by the spoked wheels of vintage automobiles. It stands out against the black background with snailed spiraling lines. The subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock consists of a rotating disc with the same open-worked motif against a black snailed background and a small marker that serves as a hand – a movable element which creates a unique, dynamic effect. The time is indicated by flat Dauphine hands in white gold and applied kite-type hour markers in blackened white gold.

The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the hammers and the classic gongs of the minute repeater as well as the sound lever in the shape of a tuning fork that carries the transparent oscillating wafer of the fortissimo amplifier system. A pierced Calatrava cross decorates the cover of the centrifugal governor that assures the regular rhythm of the time strikes. The spectacular outlook also shows the Gyromax® balance spring in Silinvar® launched in 2006 by Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” as well as the large bridge with Geneva striping and carefully chamfered and polished edges.

The platinum minirotor sports a ray pattern in the style of the dial; it was created with a laser-based light-absorbing surface texturing technique that allows certain segments to appear black. This limited special edition is worn on a shiny orange alligator strap with black contrast seams and a platinum fold-over clasp.

Patents

  • Loudspeaker with freely oscillating wafer: PCT/EP2021/066501 – TIMEPIECE COMPONENT COMPRISING A SOUND AMPLIFICATION DEVICE.
  • Sound amplification mechanism: EP3812844 A1 – TIMEPIECE COMPONENT COMPRISING A SOUND AMPLIFICATION DEVICE.
  • Platinum hammers: CH00153/21 – STRIKEWORK MECHANISM COMPRISING A STRIKEWORK HAMMER AND A STRIKEWORK GONG, IN REFERENCE TO SAID STRIKEWORK HAMMER AND IN REFERENCE TO SAID STRIKEWORK GONG.
  • Helical gongs with a coplanar attachment assure the balanced amplification of the hour and minute strikes
    EP21203307.0 – BOSSED GONG ASSEMBLY FOR THE STRIKING MECHANISM OF A MOVEMENT

About Patek Philippe “Advanced Research”

Founded in 2005, the Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” department has meanwhile been integrated in the Research & Development division and vested with the task of pursuing high-end research in the fields of new materials, technologies, and conceptual fundamentals intended to open totally new perspectives in the domain of watchmaking.

To attain these objectives, the manufacture has established unique competencies, called together its best specialists, and provided them with the latest technical resources, including instruments required for computer simulation. The engineers at Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” also collaborate with independent external research facilities such as the Centre suisse d’électronique et de microtechnique de Neuchâtel (CSEM) or the Federal Institute of Technology Lausanne (EPFL).

Since 2005, Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” has stood out with pioneering work in the innovative field of Silinvar®, a derivative of silicon with phenomenal characteristics for watchmaking applications (temperature compensating, lightweight, lubricant-free, antimagnetic, etc.).

Concurrently, the manufacture presented the first escape wheel in Silinvar® (2005), followed by the Spiromax® balance spring (2006), the Pulsomax® escapement (2008), the Oscillomax® ensemble (2011), and a further optimized version of the Spiromax® balance spring (2017). Each of these technology leaps was accompanied by the launch of a wristwatch in limited editions that were the first to be endowed with the innovative components. In the meantime, most of the movements for the current Patek Philippe watch collections are equipped with Spiromax® balance springs made of Silinvar®.

In 2017, in a totally different field of research, Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” developed a compliant mechanism (system with flexible articulations) made of conventional horological steel that in Patek Philippe watches with two time zones is used to set the second time zone. This technical innovation was launched in the limited-edition watch that also first featured the optimized Spiromax® balance spring.

Patek Philippe “Advanced Research”: key achievements

2005: Silinvar®

Silinvar® is a novel, patented material based on monocrystalline silicon. It was developed in collaboration with Rolex, the Swatch Group, and CSEM in Neuchâtel, and is suitable for applications in watchmaking.

Thanks to a patented oxidation process that causes molecular changes in the outmost layers, it has temperature-compensating characteristics. In the temperature range from -10°C to +60°C, components made of Silinvar® are highly stable – or invariable as suggested by its name (Silinvar® = silicon + invariable).

This advantage is one of several positive characteristics that make Silinvar® a true super material for horology.

• Silinvar® is very lightweight and has merely a third of the mass of steel. Silinvar® watch components can therefore be moved with less energy and react less sensitively to the earth’s gravitation.
• Silinvar® is twice as hard as steel and thus more wear-resistant.
• Silinvar® cannot be magnetized and is thus insensitive to magnetic fields.
• Silinvar® is corrosion-resistant.
• In microstructures, Silinvar® is very flexible but does not deform permanently. It is therefore very shock-resistant and dimensionally stable.
• Silinvar® components are manufactured with the DRIE process. Deep Reactive Ion Etching produces components of consistently identical shape and quality.
• Thanks to the DRIE process and the know-how accrued in this domain, Silinvar® components can be manufactured with tolerances of less than 1/1000 mm.

2005: First escape wheel in Silinvar®

This new part improves dependability because it requires no lubricants. It also reduces the mass to be moved (better efficiency), is corrosion-resistant, and remains perfectly concentric. Launch of the Ref. 5250 Annual Calendar Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” with a Silinvar® escape wheel in a limited edition of 100 watches.

2006: Spiromax® balance spring in Silinvar®

• Optimized rate accuracy by improved isochronism thanks to concentric breathing (expansion and contraction) of the balance spring.
• Lighter balance spring, less sensitive to external factors such as shocks and gravity.
• Flat design, three times thinner than a Breguet hairspring.
• Patented geometry (Patek Philippe boss at the outer end, integrated stud attachment, self-centering integrated collet) for attachment to the balance staff.

Launch of the Ref. 5350 Annual Calendar Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” with a Spiromax® balance spring and an escape wheel made of Silinvar® in a limited edition of 300 watches.

Meanwhile, the internally produced Spiromax® balance spring has been integrated in most Patek Philippe movement families, especially in calibers 300 (Grandmaster Chime), 301 (Grande Sonnerie), R 27 (except the R TO 27), 240, 28-520, 324, 26-330, 31-260, 25-21, 215 and 30-255.

2008: Pulsomax® escapement in Silinvar®

• Optimized geometry of escape wheel and lever
• Increase of energy efficiency by 15%

Launch of the Ref. 5450 Annual Calendar Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” with a Pulsomax® escapement and a Spiromax® balance spring in a limited edition of 300 watches.

2011: Oscillomax® ensemble (Pulsomax® escapement with GyromaxSi balance and Spiromax® balance spring)

With respect to precision adjustment, the GyromaxSi® balance preserves all of the advantages of the Gyromax® balance that was patented in 1951 (adjustment by changing the moment of inertia of the balance, no impact on the active length of the balance spring.

• Optimization of the advantages of the Gyromax® principle by a mass reduction near the balance staff thanks to a lightweight Silinvar® chassis.
• Concentration of the active mass on the outside edge thanks to pure gold inlays.
• Aerodynamic optimization of the balance with a 15% power gain.
• Change of the moment of inertia with four asymmetric poising weights
• All proven advantages of the Spiromax® balance spring and of the Pulsomax® escapement.

Launch of the Ref. 5550 Perpetual Calendar Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” with the Oscillomax® ensemble in a limited edition of 300 watches.

2017: Optimized Spiromax® balance spring

New Spiromax® balance spring thanks to an inner boss (thicker part at the inner end) to improve isochronism of the balance in the vertical positions. This progress is the subject of several patents, allowing a rate accuracy of -1 to +2 seconds per day in comparison with a Patek Philippe Tourbillon watch.

Launch of Ref. 5650 Aquanaut Travel Time Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” with a compliant mechanism for setting the time zone and optimized Spiromax® balance spring in a limited edition of 500 watches. Since then, the optimized Spiromax® balance spring has been integrated in most Patek Philippe movements, especially in calibers 240, 215, 28-520 and 324.

2017: Correctors with compliant mechanism in steel

Compliant mechanism for correcting the time zones. It utilizes the elasticity of materials in microstructures and replaces articulations with pivots and leaf springs. This technical development offers numerous advantages: simplified assembly (12 parts as opposed to 37 previously), flatter design, no mechanical play, no friction, no arbor wear, which results in totally lubricant-free functionality and excellent energy efficiency.

Launch of Ref. 5650 Aquanaut Travel Time Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” with a compliant mechanism for setting the time zone and optimized Spiromax® balance spring in a limited edition of 500 watches.

Technical details

Model: Ref. 5750 Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater
Limited edition of 15 pieces

Movement
Caliber R 27 PS
Self-winding mechanical movement. Minute repeater with classic gongs and small seconds
Patented fortissimo “ff” system for sound amplification and propagation consisting of a flexibly suspended sound lever, a transparent sapphire-glass oscillating wafer, a composite insulating rim and four sound openings in a titanium ring.
Diameter: 28 mm
Height: 6.05 mm
Number of parts: 342
Number of jewels: 39
Power reserve: Min. 43 hours, max. 48 hours
Winding rotor: Minirotor in 950 platinum with laser texture, unidirectional winding
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz)
Balance: Gyromax®
Balance spring: Spiromax® (in Silinvar®)
Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Displays
With hands: Center hours and minutes
With disk: Subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock

Functions
Two-position crown:
• Pushed home: To wind the watch
• Pulled out: To set the time

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
950 platinum
Sapphire-crystal case back
Minute-repeater slide in left-hand case flank
Not water-resistant, protected against moisture and dust
Diamond at 6 o’clock
Case dimensions: Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.1 mm
Width between lugs: 21 mm

Dial
White gold, black nickel-plated snailed base, open-worked ray motif, hand-guilloched edging, hour circle with circular satin finish
Applied kite-type hour markers in blackened 18K white gold
Flat Dauphine hour and minute hands in 18K white gold, black transfer-printed
Subsidiary seconds disk with marker at 6 o’clock

Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with large square scales, shiny orange with black contrast stitching, 950 platinum foldover clasp

Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany & Co.” Limited Edition

To commemorate 170 years of its alliance with Tiffany & Co., Patek Philippe has created a limited-edition run of Ref. 5711/1A-018 Nautilus wristwatches in steel endowed with famous Tiffany Blue® dials. Unique to these timepieces is the dual stamping of both companies, “Tiffany & Co.” at 6 o’clock paired with Patek Philippe at 12 o’clock. Introduced in 2006, the best selling Nautilus Ref. 5711 series will be retired from the collection in 2022.

The horizontal relief embossed dial is amplified by baton hour markers as well as baton hour and minute hands, all in blackened white gold with luminous coatings and features. The peerless design of the case, the bezel, and the integrated steel bracelet is highlighted by the refined sequence of satin-finished and polished links.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany & Co.” Limited Edition
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

The rugged case is water-resistant to 120 meters. It accommodates the self-winding caliber 26-330 S C, a movement that features various technical innovations and optimizations as well as a stop-seconds mechanism that allows the time to be set with one-second accuracy. The sapphire-crystal case back bears the commemorative inscription “170th Anniversary 1851-2021 Tiffany & Co. – Patek Philippe“.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany & Co.” Limited Edition
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

Only a quantity of 170 units will be available exclusively in the Tiffany boutiques in New York, Beverly Hills, and San Francisco that carry Patek Philippe.

Tiffany & Co. auctioned off one of the commemorative watches with Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo on December 11th, with 100% of proceeds benefitting The Nature Conservancy, a global environmental organization. It was sold for $6.5 million, making it the highest value watch to sell online at any auction house.

Both Patek Philippe (1839) and Tiffany & Co. (1837) were founded within two years of one another. From the onset, the Genevan manufacture and the American jeweler have always shared the same values: a quest for perfection, a passion for artisanal skills and a top-tier appreciation and service for customers.

In 1851, Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. forged an agreement that made the American jeweler the first official retail partner for Patek Philippe timepieces in the U.S. market. On the occasion of the first business trip to the new world, Antoine Norbert de Patek reasserted the special nature of the relationship and paid a visit to Charles Lewis Tiffany in New York. On his departure, he was deeply impressed by the business volume of the luxury jewelry retailer and by a large order of 150 watches.

In 1876, the two companies signed a new agreement that appointed Tiffany & Co. the general representative for the United States “who safeguards the interests of Patek Philippe & Cie. as if they were its own interests”. Conversely, the Genevan company pledged to safeguard the American jeweler’s interests as evidenced by the huge façade sign “Agents for Tiffany & Co., New York” at Patek Philippe’s historic headquarters facing the Grand Quai. On the premises of the same Patek Philippe Salons in Geneva, there is further proof of the solid transatlantic relationship: a large steel vault formerly owned by Tiffany & Co. and decorated by an American eagle sporting two flags.

In the period from 1900 to 1930, Tiffany & Co. also played a key role in the relationships between Patek Philippe and major American timepiece collectors such as Henry Graves Junior for whom the manufacture crafted an extensive range of complicated watches. In 1946, the grandfather of the manufacture’s current president Thierry Stern founded the Henri Stern Watch Agency in New York. It actively nurtured the continuation of the successful partnership.

In 2008, Patek Philippe intensified its relationship with the American jeweler and opened a boutique within the famous Tiffany retail venue on Fifth Avenue that is currently undergoing extensive renovation. The manufacture’s complete current collection can be admired here.

Since the beginning of the third millennium, Patek Philippe created several limited special editions for the American partner; they recall important dates and bear dual stamps for both brands. Today, Tiffany & Co. is the world’s only retailer, whose name appears on a Patek Philippe dial, making these watches highly sought-after with collectors.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany & Co.” Limited Edition
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

The previous limited editions Patek Philippe made especially for Tiffany & Co.

2001: Refs. 5150R, 5150J & 5150G – 450 watches

Launched in 2001 to celebrate the 150th year of partnership between the two companies, the Ref. 5150 Annual Calendar was the first limited edition created by Patek Philippe for a U.S. retailer. As a special feature, the month indication was shown as a numeral. A total of 450 watches were made: 150 in rose gold, 150 in yellow gold, and 150 in white gold.

2009: Refs. 4987G-001 & 4987G-010 – 100 watches

Launched in 2009 on the occasion of the first anniversary of the Patek Philippe Boutique at Tiffany & Co. on Fifth Avenue in New York, this art deco-inspired Gondolo ladies’ wristwatch featured a tonneau case and a guilloched dial decorated with a two-row diamond setting. Fifty watches with white and 50 with black dials were created.

2012: Refs. 4987G-011 & 4987G-012 – 50 watches

Presented in 2012 on the occasion of the fifth anniversary of the Patek Philippe Boutique at Tiffany & Co. on Fifth Avenue in New York (2013), this Gondolo ladies’ wristwatch features art deco accents and a slightly cambered tonneau-shaped case with two rows of diamonds and large rhythmically arranged Roman numerals. Its edition was limited to 25 watches with a blue sunburst dial and 25 watches with a mother-of-pearl dial.

2012: Ref. 5396G-012 – 100 watches

This white gold men’s watch with an Annual Calendar comes in a limited edition of 100 timepieces. It displays the day of the week and the month in a double aperture at 12 o’clock and has an analog date at 6 o’clock. The back is graced with the engraved inscription “Patek Philippe – A Shared Vision – 2008-2013 – that recalls the fifth anniversary of the Patek Philippe Boutique at Tiffany & Co. on Fifth Avenue.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany & Co.”

Edition
Limited to 170 watches

Movement
Caliber 26-330 S C
Self-winding mechanical movement, sweep seconds, and aperture date
Diameter: 27 mm
Height: 3.3 mm
Number of parts: 212
Number of jewels: 30
Power reserve: Min. 35 hours, max. 45 hours
Winding rotor: Central rotor in 21K gold, unidirectional winding
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax® in Silinvar®
Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Functions
Three-position crown:
• Pushed home: To wind the watch
• Pulled halfway out: Rapid date correction
• Pulled all the way out: Handsetting with stop seconds

Displays
Hours, minutes, and sweep seconds
Date aperture at 3 o’clock
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Case
Stainless steel
Sapphire-crystal caseback with inscription “170th Anniversary 1851-2021 Tiffany & Co. – Patek Philippe”
Water resistant to 120 m (12 bar)
Case dimensions: Diameter (10 to 4 o’clock): 40 mm
Height: 8.3 mm

Dial
Dial plate in brass with Tiffany Blue® lacquer and with horizontal Nautilus embossing
Black printed signatures “Patek Philippe Genève” at 12 o’clock and “Tiffany & Co.” at 6 o’clock.
12 applied baton-style hour markers in blackened 18K white gold, luminous coating
Baton-style hour and minute hands in black nickel-plated 18K white gold, luminous coating
Seconds hand in black nickel-plated Pfinodal, counterbalanced

Bracelet
Steel link bracelet with fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe’s Unique Ref. 27001M-001 Desk Clock Achieves 9.5 Million CHF at Only Watch 2021

At the charitable 2021 Only Watch auction which took place in Geneva on Saturday, November 6, the Patek Philippe Ref. 27001M-001 desk clock with a perpetual calendar, a power reserve of 31 days, and a totally new patented mechanism fetched an amazing amount of 9.5 million Swiss francs.

This amount has been donated to the Monaco Association against Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy (Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies AMM) in its efforts to pursue the development of therapies for the treatment of degenerative neuromuscular diseases.

Since 2005, Patek Philippe has been supporting the charitable Only Watch timepiece auction, each time donating a special unique version of one of its wristwatches, usually a grand complication. For the Only Watch auction in 2021, the manufacture opted for a new approach and created a desk clock with a novel mechanism as well as unique features.

Patek Philippe took inspiration from a desk clock with a perpetual calendar and a power reserve of 8 days originally created in 1922/1923 for James Ward, an engineer and automobile manufacturer who ranked among the most loyal and illustrious customers of the manufacture. Today, this timepiece can be admired in the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva (Inv. No. P-140). But the engineers were tasked with the creation of a totally new manually wound movement with a power reserve of 31 days, a rate accuracy of ±1 seconds per day and a level of user-friendliness worthy of a 21st-century caliber.

The result of seven years of development work is the rectangular caliber 86-135 PEND IRM Q SE with the Patek Philippe Seal; it is composed of 919 parts of which nearly half belong to the perpetual calendar. Its development was accompanied by nine patent applications. They relate to innovations and optimizations to boost long-term reliability, to reduce energy consumption of the perpetual calendar, to improve user convenience, and to safeguard functionality in the event of incorrect manipulation.

The power reserve of 31 days is achieved with three spring barrels connected in series. To guarantee a maximum rate deviation of ± 1 second per day, the engineers endowed the movement with a veritable precision adjustment ensemble.

With a patented constant-force mechanism, it assures that the amplitude of the balance remains constant for an entire month, from the first to the last day of the power reserve. A discreetly positioned power-reserve indicator in the middle of the dial informs the user when the movement needs to be rewound.

As regards functions in comparison with the “Packard” desk clock, Patek Philippe added two innovations.

One of them is a jumping second (also referred to as a seconde morte) that in the style of antique regulator clocks performs a small jump every second. The second one is a weekly calendar – the useful display of the week number – which thanks to a small frame on the edge of the dial that moves along the week number scale makes it quickly and easily legible. The manufacture retained the display of hours and minutes on an off-center subdial at 12 o’clock, the moon-phase display at 6 o’clock, and the day/month indications in apertures at 9 and 3 o’clock.

The date display of the perpetual calendar – in the “Packard” clock, it uses a hand from the center – is an analog date with a subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock. It is supplemented with two aperture displays for the day/night indication (at 7:30) and the leap year cycle (at 4:30). Both displays are indispensable for setting the calendar. All displays stand out very legibly against the opaline 3N yellow gilt dial.

For the unique Only Watch 2021 timepiece, the designers largely adopted the shape of the “Packard” desk clock, albeit in a slightly larger scale. At the same time, they gave it an innovative touch, endowing it with a veritable mechanical dashboard beneath a hinged cover which folds open to the left. With the modern control desk, all settings can be made intuitively, simply, and practically – fully in line with Patek Philippe’s user-centric philosophy.

Beneath the hinged cover in the upper left-hand corner, there is a socket with a patented ejection system for the key used to wind and set the clock. The upper right-hand corner has two key openings for setting the time and winding the movement. Thanks to its ample power reserve, the desk clock will operate 31 days each time it is fully wound.

The engineers placed five correctors beneath the dial. The correctors are marked with letters on symbols and can be operated with fingertip convenience to set the perpetual calendar from left to right in the same order as they appear on the dial: Week, day of the week (Day), moon phases (crescent moon), Month and date (Calendar).

It takes a complex system of mechanical countershafts to be able to arrange these correctors on an arc. Directly beneath it, a further opening makes it possible to stop and restart the movement with a key. Thanks to this stop-seconds feature, the time can be set with one-second accuracy.

For the looks of the Only Watch desk clock, Patek Philippe took inspiration from the richly decorated historic role model and reinterpreted it in a classic-timeless manner. The case in 925 silver carries veneers of precious American walnut in reference to Packard’s homeland and is decorated with traditional screen-printed gold fillets.

The case edge shows a cord motif that is repeated on the bezel. We see silver-gilt appliques in the style of the decorative elements on the 1923 desk clock; three rosettes in the bottom corners and at 12 o’clock, acanthus scrollwork that frames the Calatrava cross, and four case feet depicting griffon vultures. A plaque on the narrow front side bears the inscription “THE ONLY ONE” to emphasize the one-of-a-kind aspect of this exclusive treasure.

The nine patents of the caliber 86-135 PEND IRM Q SE

  • Patent 1: Ejection system for the winding and setting key recessed beneath the hinged cover.
  • Patent 2: Ratchet restraint to assure the perfect rotation and truth in the flat of all three spring barrels.
  • Patent 3: System for using the spring barrels in both directions with the aid of an intermediate barrel that rotates in the opposite direction of the two others.
  • Patent 4: Constant force mechanism to assure stability of the balance amplitude from the first to the last day of the power-reserve range.
  • Patent 5: Power-reserve indicator with an elastic endpoint and connection to the wheel train so that the movement can continue to run when the indicator stands at zero.
  • Patent 6: Limitation of the path of the large lever to save energy as long as this component is not active.
  • Patent 7: Optimized stop pawl to reduce energy consumption of the perpetual calendar.
  • Patent 8: Double-jump suppression for the week number display while the display aperture is rotating.
  • Patent 9: Activation of the correction function on every 1st day of the month to assure a correction of the displays in the proper sequence.

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PATEK PHILIPPE MUSEUM

Opened in November 2001, the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva houses one of the world’s most important and prestigious horological collections. Some 2,500 watches, automata, precious objects and portrait miniatures on enamel invite the visitor on a fabulous voyage through five centuries of Genevan, Swiss and European horological art, as well as proposing a panoramic view of Patek Philippe’s production since 1839.

The recent introduction of a new museology makes the experience particularly vivid and engaging. This internationally renowned jewel in Geneva enables experts, devotees and the general public to make closer acquaintance with the exceptional cultural heritage that horology and the related arts represent.

The Patek Philippe Museum was born of a man’s passion for horology. That man is Philippe Stern, who was president of the Geneva manufacture at the time and is now its honorary president. Mr. Stern began assembling the collection well before thinking in terms of a museum. He concentrated at first on Patek Philippe watches, particularly the complicated models.

In 1980 he enlarged the scope of his search to take in all timepieces that had left their mark on watchmaking history since the sixteenth century, together with the greatest treasures of the enameller’s art, that sublime Genevan specialty. Little by little he built up one of today’s most extraordinary horological collections. But his aim in bringing together all these technical and aesthetic masterworks was not solely to satisfy his personal tastes.

He also intended to share his love of the watchmaking art and his joy of discovery with the public at large. And in doing so, to communicate the splendor of Geneva’s high-watchmaking tradition and ensure that this cultural heritage would be handed down to future generations. And so the idea of a museum began to take shape.

The Patek Philippe Museum is housed in a magnificent industrial building dating from 1919–1920 and restored with great restraint. Located at number 7 rue des Vieux-Grenadiers, in the Plainpalais district of Geneva, this building had been occupied by watchmakers and artisans in the related trades throughout its history.

Patek Philippe acquired it in 1975 to house Ateliers Réunis, a production unit making cases, bracelets and chains. In 1996 these activities moved to the new manufacturing premises in Plan-les-Ouates, leaving the building vacant. Between 1999 and 2001 the structure was fully restored, adding an additional floor, with strict respect for the original architecture.

In November 2001, the Patek Philippe Museum collections were at last unveiled, in surroundings worthy of their technical, artistic, aesthetic, historical and scientific value. It offers the chance to discover five centuries of horological heritage, as well as the significance for all the decorative arts traditionally associated with watchmaking – engraving, enameling, gemsetting, guilloché work etc.

The collections are divided into two complementary sections: on the second floor, a tour through the history of the portable mechanical timepiece, from its origins in the sixteenth century down to the early nineteenth century; on the first floor, a survey of Patek Philippe’s most beautiful creations, from 1839 to 2000. On the third floor, a library of more than 8,000 works on horology and related subjects underlines the museum’s educational role.

In the space of two decades, the Patek Philippe Museum has made its mark as one of Geneva’s finest museums and cultural highlights. Besides attracting visitors from all around the world, it also draws the inhabitants of the surrounding region, keen to know more about Geneva’s cultural heritage. The number of visitors testifies to its success, with more than 600,000 admissions in twenty years.

Along with the permanent collections, the museum has held temporary exhibitions showcasing particular treasures: “Timepieces for Royalty” in 2005, “The Mirror of Seduction: Prestigious Pairs of Chinese Watches” in 2010 and “Timepieces Signed Rousseau” in 2012. Public guided tours take place every Saturday in French and English or may be booked in advance in seven languages (French, English, German, Italian, Spanish, Chinese and Russian).

Themed tours are also on offer. The themes range from enameling or the magic of automata to a children’s tour or a discovery tour of the old watchmakers’ Geneva. These too may be reserved. And not forgetting the open-door weekends with their special attractions. Some of the objects also travel the world for Patek Philippe’s Grand Exhibitions, which are open to the public and devoted to the art of watchmaking.

Under the leadership of Philippe Stern and Peter Friess, director and curator of the museum since 2014, new acquisitions have continued to enrich the collections. The layouts of the two main collections have been reorganized, each now comprising twenty themed areas reflecting particular aspects of the watch’s history or the world of Patek Philippe.

To complement the wide choice of guided tours, the museum has also introduced an audio guide, accessed via a tablet. This device makes it possible both to provide all the required information on the exhibits and to illustrate the context in which they were created and worn, highlighting the close links between watchmaking and science, fashion, artistic movements and social change. The audio guide currently offers some twenty hours of accompaniment in English, French or German. Other languages will be available as from 2023.

Users may compose their own itinerary or choose a pre-set route, such as the one suggested by Philippe Stern himself. About 10,000 photographs complete this application, enabling the user to zoom in on details or examine features that may not be visible in the display cases. Modern, interactive and dynamic, this à la carte means of discovery gives visitors the freedom to tailor their visit to their particular interests.

The Patek Philippe Museum suggests a tour on four levels, according to an itinerary that begins on the ground floor and continues on the third, second and first floors.

(1) Ground floor: Collection of Workbenches and Antique Tools, and The Restoration Workshop

The ground floor displays a number of antique benches used by watchmakers and jewelers in bygone days, conjuring up the atmosphere of their workshops. A collection of tools and machines dating from the eighteenth to the mid-twentieth century illustrate each step in the manufacture of a timepiece and the range of procedures involved in its decoration.

To complete this tableau honoring tradition, a workshop with large windows, reminiscent of those once occupied by Geneva’s renowned cabinotiers (artisans employed by a cabinet, or small workshop), allows the visitor to admire the work of the restoration watchmakers, who specialize in restoring the watches on display.

This delicate task calls for outstanding dexterity as well as a thorough command of traditional know-how and technical skills; in order, perhaps, to recreate a part identically, using the same tools as the master watchmakers of the past.

(2) Third floor: The Patek Philippe Historical Archives, The Library and the Collection of Portraits and Snuffboxes in Miniature Painting on Enamel

The third floor recounts the history of Patek Philippe, with a selection from the historic archives representing great events in the life of the manufacture, including hand-written documents evoking its founders, Antoine Norbert de Patek and Jean Adrien Philippe.

Visitors will discover a faithful reconstruction of the office of Henri Stern, father of Philippe Stern and grandfather of the current president, Thierry Stern.

The third floor also houses an extraordinary library devoted to horology and related subjects, as well as a collection of portraits and other miniature paintings on enamel. Among some 8,000 books spanning the period from the sixteenth century to the present day are numerous rare and precious works, including writings by Galileo (1564–1642) and the inventor of the balance spring, Christiaan Huygens (1629–1695).

At the center of this library are four wall-mounted display cases presenting a priceless collection of 141 portrait miniatures on enamel, some bearing the signatures of the greatest masters. A table-mounted case displays sixteen snuffboxes decorated by means of the same ancestral technique and further embellished with pearls and guilloché motifs.

These wonders of artistry and skill date from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. They are sublime examples of a highly complex art; one that became a great Genevan specialty and contributed significantly to the city’s international renown.

They are joined in the library by several extraordinary horological and astronomical pieces, including a table clock made in about 1810 by the French master clockmaker Antide Janvier. The base is surmounted by three nude Atlas figures in patinated bronze supporting a celestial globe in engraved glass, within which an orrery reproduces the motions of the planets around the Sun.

(3) Second floor: The Antique Collection, From the Sixteenth to the Mid-Nineteenth Century

The second floor of the museum, with its 1,200 splendid exhibits, presents a panoramic view of the history of the portable watch and the decorative arts with which it was embellished.

This discovery tour takes in twenty themed areas each focusing on a specific aspect of the technical and aesthetic developments in horology.

The tour begins with the emergence of the first portable watches in the early sixteenth century. Among the examples on show is one of the oldest timepieces of this kind, a German drum-watch made in about 1530.

Up until about 1675, the watch was primarily a mark of prestige, an object conveying wealth and refinement. Hence the importance placed on its decoration, with lavish engraving, precious stones or cloisonné or champlevé enameling, and highly inventive case shapes. Those on show include square, oval and spherical watches and, more curiously, others in the shape of a cross or a human skull (a “memento mori”) or even a dolphin.

Visitors will also discover the rapid developments in watchmaking in Geneva as from the second half of the sixteenth century, fuelled by the arrival of the Huguenot (French Protestant) artisans fleeing persecution.

Around 1630 the first examples appeared of the use of miniature painting on enamel to adorn watch-cases and dials, initially in the Blois region of France, and then in other European countries. The museum presents an array of these exquisite masterworks, famed for the brilliance and intensity of their colors.

Depicting religious or mythological scenes, they were often inspired by the works of the great European artists. One of the museum’s treasures from this period is a French pendant watch entitled “The Theological Virtues”, remarkable for its case decoration combining champlevé, en relief enameling and camaïeu painting with diamonds. Geneva’s artisans also began to adopt the exacting art of miniature painting on enamel, which they subsequently raised to an unparalleled level of radiance and finesse.

In 1675, the invention of the balance spring by the Dutch physicist Christiaan Huygens ushered watchmaking into a new era. Formerly worn mainly for show, the timepiece now became a precision instrument with a rate accuracy of within one or two minutes per day. This technical breakthrough fuelled other scientific discoveries that contributed in their turn to progress in watchmaking. The Patek Philippe Museum testifies to the advance of this scientific horology with a fine collection of sophisticated timepieces demonstrating a dual objective –horological complication and accuracy.

The Enlightenment was also a time of great aesthetic creativity. Women’s watches acquired all the refinement of jewelry and were worn as delicate pendants or dangling from the waist on a fashionable chatelaine. They offered a wide variety of dials, some of them highly original. Geneva’s famous Fabrique, the collective term for all the workshops engaged in the creation of watches and jewelry, was renowned worldwide for the quality of its production. In particular it was known for its decorations in miniature painting on enamel, with the celebrated “Geneva flux” that lent an incomparable radiance.

Notable among the creations destined for export are the watches that were made for the Chinese market. They were usually created in pairs –sometimes even reversing the same decoration so that the subjects mirrored each other. One example is the pocket watches depicting “Venus Binding the Wings of Cupid” in miniature painting on enamel with pearls and turquoise, made in Geneva circa 1815. Other unusual pieces include the lavishly adorned watches produced for the Ottoman market, recognizable by their Turkish numerals and predominantly floral decorations.

As the epitome of mechanical virtuosity, the art of creating automata flourished during this period. The Patek Philippe Museum presents a veritable anthology on the subject, from timepieces presenting genuine tableaux vivants to singing birds trilling their melody while beating their wings or tiny figures moving their arms to indicate the hours and minutes, along with a wealth of musical mechanisms.

Technology was also advancing apace, as demonstrated by a watch from the English watchmaker Thomas Mudge, dated 1762 and considered the earliest perpetual calendar pocket watch (S-1033). Among the forerunners of the modern horologist the great Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) certainly stands out, and the museum owns several of his pioneering creations, including two superb “Sympathique” clocks.

Another distinguished figure is Jean-Antoine Lépine (1720–1814) whose invention of a new movement architecture meant that much thinner watches could be made. Other exhibits of note include the first self-winding pocket watches, whose mechanisms may now be viewed at the museum outside their respective cases.

As regards watches for women, eccentricity was all the rage at the end of the eighteenth century and watch design reflected that trend until about 1830. It was the heyday of the ornamental or “fantasy” watch, of which the museum possesses a wonderful collection. These timepieces take on astonishingly diverse shapes: musical instruments, animals, flowers, fruit etc. generally painted in brilliantly colored enamels.

Accompanying them is a vast range of small practical objects, such as penknives, snuffboxes and small cases for a lady’s personal items. Other intriguing objects include a “tact” watch dated 1800, enabling its owner to tell the time with her fingertips. The case is circled by twelve precious stones, whose initials form an acrostic saying “heures d’amour”.

The tour of this second floor ends with a close look at the development of striking watches (including the famous minute repeaters) and the birth of the chronograph – illustrated by several inking chronographs designed by Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec in the 1820s. And finally, the development of the winding system; particularly the successive attempts to free watches of the need for a key for winding and setting, prior to Jean Adrien Philippe’s major invention.

(4) First floor: The Patek Philippe Collection, 1839–2000

The first floor is devoted entirely to Patek Philippe’s creations from 1839 to 2000, with the addition of some commemorative watches issued later. About 1,150 timepieces – pocket watches, pendant watches, wristwatches, small table clocks – forming twenty themed areas, compose a portrait of one of the most creative watch manufactures.

In 1839, a Polish gentleman, Antoine Norbert de Patek, and his fellow countryman François Czapek founded a watchmaking firm in Geneva. At first they produced mainly for export to Poland, as evidenced by a number of watches adorned with religious or patriotic motifs.

In 1845, Patek decided to join forces with Jean Adrien Philippe, a young French watchmaker and inventor of the dual system for winding and setting watches by means of a crown; in other words, he invented the first keyless watches. This revolutionary patented system rapidly became the norm for all watch brands and remains so today.

The manufacture was soon renowned for the technical and aesthetic quality of its timepieces. A wide variety of pocket watches and pendant watches bear witness to its success, displaying all manner of refined decoration: engraving, enameling, gem-setting and more.

In 1851, Patek Philippe received a gold medal at the Great Exhibition in London. Queen Victoria acquired a blue pendant watch and also admired another model, adorned with enamel and diamonds. Both are now on display in the museum.

Numerous members of royal families and the aristocracy followed the young queen’s example, acquiring watches from the manufacture. These pieces were sometimes personalized with a monogram or royal coat of arms, a famous example being the minute-repeating clock-watch of 1910 known as the “Duke of Regla”.

Accuracy was a cornerstone of Patek Philippe’s approach from the start. This quest is illustrated by a selection of the countless specially designed watches and movements – some of them never commercialized – that dominated the observatory chronometer competitions from 1873 to 1968. And not forgetting the numerous awards and medals won by the manufacture and now exhibited on the third floor of the museum.

From its earliest days, Patek Philippe has been recognized for its supreme mastery of complications: all the functions or indications other than the hour, minutes and seconds.

Several dedicated areas offer ample proof, each showcasing a particularly emblematic type of watch: the perpetual calendar, including the earliest known perpetual calendar wristwatch, built by Patek Philippe in 1925; the travel watches, with the dual-time-zone models and the famous World Time watches; and the striking watches, with numerous minute repeaters and the earliest Patek Philippe striking wristwatch, a five-minute repeater created in 1916 for feminine wrists.

They are joined by the chronographs, notably the first wristwatch endowed with a split-seconds chronograph (circa 1923), along with the tourbillons, the astronomical watches and the equations of time, and all the Grand Complications uniting several of these functions in a single timepiece.

To accompany these technical feats, Patek Philippe has always excelled by the creativity of its designs. The museum offers a stunning panorama of the aesthetic developments in the wristwatch from the earliest models in the “Officer” style, with an accent on art nouveau and art deco (the latter a golden age for the manufacture) represented by pieces in an astonishing range of shapes. Watches for women also feature prominently, from the first Swiss wristwatch, made by Patek Philippe for a countess in 1868, to the highly imaginative and brightly colored jewelry watches of the 1970s.

During their tour, visitors will discover several other fascinating aspects of Patek Philippe’s history and production. A large display case recalls the era of Gondolo & Labouriau, a Brazilian distributor in Rio de Janeiro for whom the manufacture produced a huge range of pocket watches and wristwatches from 1872 to 1936.

The great American collectors of the early twentieth century are also well represented, notably by the numerous pieces made for James Ward Packard (P-704) and Henry Graves Jr.

Patek Philippe’s passion for the rare handcrafts is illustrated by an array of watches and table clocks decorated with cloisonné enamel or miniature painting on enamel.

A feature recently introduced enables the visitor to see the original models of the main watch families in the current product range, namely the Calatrava (1932), the Golden Ellipse (1968), the Nautilus (1976), the Aquanaut (1997) and the Twenty~4 ladies’ watch (1999).

The last section shines the spotlight on the flagship models that Patek Philippe unveiled in the late twentieth and the early twenty-first century to mark important dates, such as the famous Calibre 89 (33 complications) launched in 1989 for the manufacture’s 150th anniversary and recognized for more than twenty-five years as the world’s most complicated portable timepiece; and the Star Caliber 2000 (21 complications), created to welcome the new millennium.

This amazing voyage ends with the Grandmaster Chime, the most complicated Patek Philippe wristwatch (20 complications, including 5 striking modes), launched as a limited edition in 2014 for the manufacture’s 175th anniversary and now in the current collection.

Contact details

Patek Philippe Museum
Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 7
1205 Geneva
http://www.patekmuseum.com
http://www.patek.com/museum

Opening hours

Tuesday-Friday: 2 pm – 6 pm
Saturday: 10 am – 6 pm
Closed Sunday, Monday and public holidays

Source: Patek Philippe

 

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Automatic Reference 5268/200R-001

Patek Philippe presents a new Aquanaut Luce automatic watch with a larger diameter case and a new integrated matt-white strap.

The Aquanaut Luce with a self-winding mechanical movement was launched in 2010 by a rose-gold model with a chocolate brown dial and strap (5068R-001), joined in 2013 by a version in white (5068R-010).  The new model released in 2021 features a 38.8 mm diameter (up from the previous 35.6 mm) case on an integrated strap that continues the visual harmony of the design.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Automatic Reference 5268/200R-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

The rose-gold case, water-resistant to 120 m, contrasts the polished finish on its flat surfaces with a satin-brushed finish on the flanks. The emblematic rounded octagonal bezel has a polished beveled edge and sparkles with 48 Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (~1.11 ct) set with textbook precision.

A dial in matt white with the embossed Aquanaut motif forms a luxurious backdrop to rose-gold applied Arabic numerals and rose-gold baton-style hour and minute hands with a luminescent coating. A slender rose-gilt sweep-seconds hand completes the time display, while the date appears in an aperture at 3 o’clock.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Automatic Reference 5268/200R-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

This sporty, elegant timepiece is powered by the caliber 26-330 S C self-winding movement. Introduced in 2019, this caliber is endowed with a number of technical innovations and optimizations (two of which are patented) relating particularly to the winding system.

The presence of a stop-seconds device, which stops the balance when the crown is pulled out, enables the user to set the time to the second. A sapphire-crystal back reveals the movement’s architecture and flawless hand-finish.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Automatic Reference 5268/200R-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

The watch is worn on an integrated matt-white strap made of an ultra-resistant composite material with a patented fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches. The new Aquanaut Luce Reference 5268/200R-001 replaces the two previous 5068 references in the collection.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce automatic in rose gold, Reference 5268/200R-001

Movement
Caliber 26-330 S C
Self-winding mechanical movement with sweep seconds and with date in an aperture
Diameter: 27 mm
Height: 3.3 mm
Number of parts: 212
Number of jewels: 30
Power reserve: Min. 35 hours / max. 45 hours
Winding rotor: Central rotor in 21K gold, unidirectional winding
Frequency: 28 800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance: Gyromax®
Balance spring: Spiromax® (in Silinvar®)
Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Displays
By hands: hours, minutes and sweep seconds
By aperture: date at 3 o’clock

Crown functions
Three-positions crown:
• Unscrewed: manual winding
• Pulled out half way: correcting the date
• Pulled out all the way: setting the time
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Case
18K rose gold
Bezel set with 48 brilliant-cut Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (~1.11 ct)
Screw-down crown
Water-resistant to 120 m (12 bars)
Case dimensions: Diameter (10–4 o’clock): 38.8 mm
Width (9 –3 o’clock with crown): 40.95 mm
Length (across lugs): 45.4 mm
Height: 8.5 mm
Width between lugs: 19.03 mm

Dial
Brass with Aquanaut pattern embossed and varnished in matt white
Applied Arabic numerals in 18K rose gold
Baton-style hour and minute hands in 18K rose gold with Superluminova® luminescent coating
Arrow-style seconds hand with counterpoise in Pfinodal, gilded with rose gold

Strap
Composite material ultra-resistant to water, ultraviolet radiation and wear, with raised checkerboard pattern in matt white
Patented fold-over clasp in 18K rose gold, secured by four independent catches

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Quartz in Steel, References 5267/200A-001, 5267/200A-010 and 5267/200A-011

Aquanaut Luce, the modern, sporty chic watch collection from Patek Philippe, has enjoyed outstanding success with women since its induction. The Geneva manufacture is now revisiting the original design of 2004 in a new generation of quartz-powered models in steel.

Since its launch in 2004, the ladies’ quartz-driven Aquanaut Luce in steel Reference 5067 has appeared in a range of colors (including black, safari brown, pearly white and blue-gray).

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Quartz in Steel, Reference 5267/200A-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

Patek Philippe is giving fresh allure to this flagship model of modern sporty chic by endowing it with an enlarged diameter of 38.8 mm (previously 35.6 mm) and an integrated strap whose contours follow the curvature of the case and the lugs. From now on a new, larger case and an integrated strap will equip every Aquanaut Luce (except the Haute Joaillerie models).

The new Aquanaut Luce Reference 5267/200A comes with matching dial and strap in a choice of three colors: black (5267/200A-001), matt white (5267/200A-010) and khaki green (5267/200A-011).

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Quartz in Steel, Reference 5267/200A-011
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

This new shade of khaki green is identical to the color introduced on the men’s Aquanaut Reference 5168G-010 in 2019 and seen this year on the new Aquanaut Chronograph Reference 5968G-010. It is also a nod to the original model of 2004, “Adventurous Khaki”, a slightly different shade.

The dials are remarkable for their blend of sportiness and refinement. Their embossed Aquanaut decoration throws into relief the white-gold applied Arabic numerals and the large white-gold baton-style hands with their luminescent coating. On the model with a matt-white dial (5267/200A-010) black numerals and a date printed in white on a black ground in the aperture at 3 o’clock strengthen the legibility. The steel case is adorned with a polished finish on the flat surfaces and a satin-brushed finish on the flanks.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Quartz in Steel, Reference 5267/200A-010
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

Water-resistant to 120 m, notably thanks to its screw-down crown, it houses a Patek Philippe caliber E 23-250 S C quartz movement finished with the same meticulous care as the manufacture’s mechanical movements. The bezel has polished beveled edges and is lit by a circle of 48 round-cut Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (~1.11 ct).

The integrated strap made of an ultra-resistant composite material features a patented fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches. The new Aquanaut Luce References 5267/200A replace all the previous Reference 5067 models.

Technical details

Model: Aquanaut Luce quartz in steel

References
5267/200A-001: with black dial
5267/200A-010: with matt white dial
5267/200A-011: with khaki green dial

Movement
Caliber E 23-250 S C quartz with sweep seconds and date in an aperture
Diameter: 23.9 mm
Height: 2.5 mm
Number of parts: 80
Number of jewels: 8
Quartz frequency: 32 768 Hz
Power source: Silver oxide battery 1.55 V
Battery life: Approximately 3 years

Displays
By hands: hours, minutes and sweep seconds
By aperture: date at 3 o’clock

Crown functions
Three-positions crown:
•Pushed in: normal operation
• Unscrewed and pulled out half way: correcting the date
• Unscrewed and pulled out all the way: stopping the movement and setting the time

Case
Steel
Bezel set with 48 brilliant-cut Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (~1.11 ct)
Screw-down crown
Water-resistant to 120 m (12 bars)

Case dimensions
Diameter (10–4 o’clock): 38.8 mm
Width (9–3 o’clock with crown): 40.95 mm
Length (across lugs): 45.4 mm
Height: 7.9 mm
Width between lugs: 19.03 mm

Dial
Brass, with Aquanaut motif embossed and varnished in black (5267/200A-001), matt white (5267/200A-010) or khaki green (5267/200A-011)
Applied Arabic numerals in 18K white gold (blackened 18K white gold on the matt-white version)
Baton-style hour and minute hands in 18K white gold with Superluminova® luminescent coating
Bronze arrow-style seconds hand with counterpoise

Strap
Composite material ultra-resistant to water, ultraviolet radiation and wear, with checkerboard pattern matching that of the dial
Patented fold-over clasp in steel, secured by four independent catches

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Reference 5269/200R-001

To create this Aquanaut Luce traveller’s watch for women, Patek Philippe drew inspiration from the manufacture’s ingenious Travel Time dual-time-zone mechanism.

This exclusive system is already a feature of the men’s Aquanaut Reference 5164, where two push-pieces on the left flank of the case set the local time. But to retain all the elegance and finesse that women love in the Aquanaut Luce, the manufacture reinterpreted this useful, user-friendly function to incorporate two innovations: a new quartz movement with a dual-time-zone function, caliber E 23-250 S FUS 24H, and a discreet, practical setting system via the winding crown.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Reference 5269/200R-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

This device required that the electronic movement be fitted with a dual time-zone mechanism similar to those that equip all Patek Philippe’s World Time and Travel Time watches, but controlled here by the clutch-pinion that activates hand-setting, rather than by pushers. The new quartz caliber is finished with same meticulous care as the manufacture’s mechanical movements.

The new Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Reference 5269/200R has two central hour hands – a skeletonized hand for home time and a solid hand for local time. When its owner changes time zones, the hour hand for local time may be set forwards or backwards by increments of one hour using the crown pulled out to the intermediate position, without this affecting the rate accuracy of the movement.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Reference 5269/200R-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

During the time spent abroad, the skeletonized hand will continue to display home time, coupled with the day/night indicator at 6 o’clock. The Travel Time’s dual-time-zone system can also be used to display the time in another longitude.

When the watch’s owner remains at home or no longer needs a second time zone, the two hour hands can be superposed to become a single hand, using the winding crown. In this way, the Aquanaut Luce Travel Time offers two watches in one: a casually elegant model for all occasions, transformable in an instant into a dual-time-zone watch for those who travel and communicate far and wide.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Reference 5269/200R-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

The rose-gold 38.8 mm case, equipped with a non-screw-down crown (to make using the Travel Time function practical and unobtrusive) is water-resistant to 60 m. Its contrasting polished and satin-brushed finishes complement a matt-white dial and a matching strap. The Aquanaut Luce’s chic, sporty personality gains extra sparkle from a bezel edged with a polished bevel and set with 48 Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (~1.11 ct).

The dial presents an embossed Aquanaut motif beneath rose-gold applied numerals and rose-gold baton-style hands, the solid hands with a luminescent coating. The integrated white composite-material strap has a patented fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches.

Technical details

Model: Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Reference 5269/200R-001

Movement
Caliber E 23-250 S FUS 24H quartz movement with sweep seconds, dual time zones (local time and home time) and a day/night indicator linked to home time
Diameter: 23.9 mm
Height: 2.95 mm
Number of parts: 96
Number of jewels: 9
Quartz frequency: 32 768 Hz
Power source: Silver oxide battery 1.55 V
Battery life: Approximately 3 years

Displays
By hands: local time (solid hand), home time (skeletonized hand), minutes and sweep seconds
By aperture: day/night indicator at 6 o’clock

Crown functions
Three-positions crown:
• Pushed in: normal operation
• Pulled out half way: correcting the local time by increments of one hour backwards or forwards
• Pulled out all the way: stopping the movement and setting the time

Case
18K rose gold
Bezel set with 48 brilliant-cut Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (~1.11 ct)
Water-resistant to 60 m (6 bars)
Diameter (10–4 o’clock): 38.8 mm
Width (9–3 o’clock with crown): 40.9 mm
Length (across lugs): 45.4 mm
Height: 8.77 mm
Width between lugs: 19.03 mm

Dial
Brass, with Aquanaut motif embossed and varnished in matt white
Applied Arabic numerals in 18K rose gold
Baton-style local hour hand and minute hand in 18K rose gold with Superluminova® luminescent coating
Skeletonized baton-style home hour hand in 18K rose gold
Arrow-style seconds hand with counterpoise in Pfinodal, gilded with rose gold

Strap
Composite material ultra-resistant to water, ultraviolet radiation and wear, with raised checkerboard pattern in matt white
Patented fold-over clasp in 18K rose-gold, secured by four independent catches

Patek Philippe Ref. 7118/1450G Nautilus Haute Joaillerie

This year, Patek Philippe expanded the iconic Nautilus collection by unveiling a high jewellery version in white fold (the Ref. 7118/1450R-001). This sparkling wristwatch belongs to the brand’s “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” collection.

The new Ref. 7118/1450G Nautilus Haute Joaillerie watch is adorned with 2553 flawless Top Wesselton brilliant-cut diamonds (~12.69 ct), using the snow setting technique.

Patek Philippe Ref. 7118/1450G Nautilus Haute Joaillerie
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

To assure perfect legibility, the dial features luminous Alpha hour and minute hands in blackened white gold, and the applied Arabic numerals made of the same precious metal also have a luminous coating.

This timepiece is equipped with the self-winding caliber 324 S movement. Its 21K gold rotor and elaborate finishing can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back.

Patek Philippe Ref. 7118/1450G Nautilus Haute Joaillerie
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

The 18K white-gold bracelet combines elegance with snug comfort. The watch features a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp that is secured with four independent catches. In the current Patek Philippe collection, the new Ref. 7118/1450G-001 Nautilus Haute Joaillerie in white gold joins the Ref. 7118/1450R-001 in rose gold.

Technical details

Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement
Caliber 324 S
Sweep seconds
Diameter: 27 mm
Height: 3.30 mm
Parts: 182
Jewels: 29
Power reserve: min. 45 hours
Central rotor in 21K gold, unidirectional winding
Balance: Gyromax®
Semi-oscillation/hour: 28 800 (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Dial
Paved with diamonds, blackened gold applied hour markers and numerals with luminescent coating
18K gold dial plate

Case
White gold, paved with diamonds
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30m
Diameter (10 – 4 o’clock): 35.2 mm
Height: 8.65 mm

Bracelet
White gold bracelet, paved with diamonds
Diamond-set Nautilus fold-over clasp

Gem-setting
286 diamonds: ~0.92 ct. (dial)
518 diamonds: ~2.52 cts. (case)
20 diamonds: ~0.03 ct. (crown)
1,729 diamonds: ~9.22 cts. (bracelet)
Total of 2,553 diamonds: ~12.69 cts

About Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 Collection

On the occasion of the “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibition in June 2021, Patek Philippe launched six exceptional wristwatches featuring artistic decorations such as manual engraving, grand feu cloisonné enamel, grand feu champlevé enamel, grand feu flinqué enamel, manual guilloching and gemsetting.

Models

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Patek Philippe Ref. 5738/51G-001 Golden Ellipse Haut Artisanat

In 2018, on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the Golden Ellipse collection, Patek Philippe presented a limited edition of 100 sets consisting of a platinum timepiece and matching cufflinks. Now, the Geneva manufacture is presenting a new artistic interpretation of this exceptional watch.

Released during the “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibition, the Golden Ellipse Haut Artisanat features a polished white-gold case and subtly reworked dial decor details.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5738/51G-001 Golden Ellipse Haut Artisanat
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

First, the dial plate in 18K gold is pieced to create the recesses that will be filled with black grand feu enamel (champlevé enamel). The zones that are raised are then manually engraved with vegetal or floral motifs. In this manner, Patek Philippe combines two of the most venerable working methods (hand engraving and enamel) used for decorating timepieces. The decor, with its volutes and arabesques ideally complements the inimitable case shape of the Golden Ellipse.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5738/51G-001 Golden Ellipse Haut Artisanat
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

It features two very slender “cheveu”-style hands in white gold. The crown is topped with an onyx cabochon. The self-winding caliber 240 movement ticks beneath the artistically finished dial. It is powered by an off-center recessed minirotor in 22K gold; thanks to its ultra-thin design, it will fit a very elegant case (height: 6.58 mm).

The timeless design of the watch is emphasized by a hand-stitched shiny black alligator leather strap with square scales. Its prong buckle echoes the shape of the case.

The other existing timepieces in the current Golden Ellipse collection are the Ref. 5738P-001 in platinum with a blue sunburst dial and the Ref. 5738R-001 in rose gold with an ebony black sunburst dial.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Haut Artisanat Watch, Ref. 5738/51G-001

Movement
Ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement
Caliber 240
Diameter: 27.5 mm
Height: 2.53 mm
Parts: 161
Bridges: 6
Jewels: 27
Power reserve: Min. 48 hours
22K gold off-center mini-rotor
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Patent: CH 595 653

Dial
Hand-engraved and black enamelled
18K gold dial plate

Case
White gold
Crown set with an onyx cabochon
Solid case back
Humidity- and dust-protected only (not water-resistant)
Dimensions: 34.5 x 39.5 mm
Height: 6.58 mm

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny black
Prong buckle

About Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 Collection

On the occasion of the “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibition in June 2021, Patek Philippe launched six exceptional wristwatches featuring artistic decorations such as manual engraving, grand feu cloisonné enamel, grand feu champlevé enamel, grand feu flinqué enamel, manual guilloching and gemsetting.

Models

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