ochs und junior two time zones + date

This minimalistic mechanical wrist watch created by Ludwig Oechslin boasts a unique hour hand that shows two time zones at once, and a highly readable analog date display.

Traditionally in dual-time-zone watches, a second time zone is displayed on a subdial or via an additional hour hand. Oechslin’s solution shows both time zones on one special hour hand. How it works is simple: if the second time zone is ahead of the wearer’s (for example, +6 hours), this number is set on the timezone disk at 12 o’clock. If the second time zone is behind the wearer’s, this number is subtracted from 12, and the difference is set at 12 o’clock. As the open hour hand passes over the timezone disk, the second time zone is displayed proportionally within its frame. Oechslin’s solution increases the feeling of connection between the time zone of the wearer and the second time zone.

The hands display the first time zone. The number inside the open hour hand indicates the second time zone. The timezone disk in the center is adjusted so that the difference between the two time zones is displayed at 12 o’clock. If the second time zone is ahead (for example, +3 hours), you set this number at 12 o’clock. If the second time zone is behind, you subtract from 12, and set the result at 12 o’clock. Both time zones are designed as 12 hour indications. It is assumed that whether the second time zone is ahead or behind the first is known.

Oechslin’s two time zones + date watch uses the same analog date display as his radical 12-part perpetual calendar. Oechslin’s solution makes the date readable from farther away than even a large digital date display, and it leaves the time as the initial information visible upon a quick glance. Its 30+1 date perforations are arranged in a gentle spiral, and after a short time on the wrist, the wearer can read the date intuitively.

The small circle beneath 12 o’clock is the power reserve indicator. Full power (60 hours) is when the dot is beneath the rightmost 12 o’clock marker. Empty is when the dot is beneath the leftmost 12 o’clock marker. The disk rotates counterclockwise.

The exact minute can be read using the date holes, which are spaced at 2 minute intervals. Holes mark even minutes and gaps odd minutes. Just above the 6 o’clock marker is a seconds disk with a milled excentric dot. This disk shows the watch is running.

The base movement is the Ulysse Nardin UN-118. The parts like Direction gear, Gear wheel, Timezones disk, Date disk, Module board, Dial, Hour hand , Minute hand, Seconds disk and Power reserve indicator were designed by Ludwig Oechslin specifically for two time zones + date. They are manufactured in Switzerland by Helfenstein Mechanik AG and, like all ochs und junior parts, are backed by a lifetime warranty.

Oechslin’s two time zones + date watch contains a mechanism that allows two of the watch’s functions to be set in the same crown position. You can set the timezone by turning the crown counterclockwise in position 1, and the date by turning the crown clockwise in position 1. The direction gear which enables this is fairly common in watchmaking. Ingenious, however, is the way it’s used in this situation, and how the two functions interact with each other. The timezone disk is controlled by the date disk. Changing the direction of rotation while setting the watch causes the direction gear to slip out of its coupling, and cancels the connection between the timezone disk and date disk.

Force is therefore only applied to the timezone disk during adjustment. While the watch is running, no additional gears interact with the timezone disk, thereby assuring optimal power transition from the base movement. The titanium spring holding the timezone disk in position is integrated directly into the module board, which greatly simplifies assembly of the function. Oechslin’s two time zones + date watch thus contains a mechanism that combines and connects functions, yet also separates them.

To assure high legibility in the dark, the watch features Super-LumiNova X1. This coating is manufactured by RC TRITEC in Teufen / Switzerland. In the dark, Super-LumiNova shines green (the option used by ochs und junior) or blue, on special request. The Super-LumiNova coating is applied by hand by ochs und junior, or for dials with a color application by Cador in Eimeldingen / Germany and by Monyco in La Chaux-de-Fonds / Switzerland.

This watch is entirely manufactured in Switzerland. The case is manufactured by Peter Cantieni in Hinwil, while the gear system, dial, hands, buckle and crown are manufactured by Helfenstein in Alpnach. The Ulysse Nardin UN-118 base movement is manufactured in Le Locle. Each watch is hand-assembled and regulated at the ochs und junior workshop in Lucerne. A lifetime warranty covers all parts invented by Ludwig Oechslin, and the entire watch is covered by a 2-year guarantee.

Technical details

Case
2-part case designed by Ludwig Oechslin. Available in grade 5 titanium or sterling silver 925; additional materials upon request. Visible machining marks. ochs und junior watches require no movement ring due to the extremely small manufacturing tolerances on the case. Available exclusively with a solid case back. Manufacturer: Peter Cantieni / Hinwil / Switzerland.
Dimensions: 42mm x 12.5mm (incl. crystal)
Water resistance: 100m in titanium, 100m in sterling silver 925. Both models are fit for almost any situation in daily life.

Crown
Screw-down crown designed by Ludwig Oechslin in grade 5 titanium or sterling silver 925. Manufacturers: Pibor SA / Glovelier / Switzerland and Helfenstein Mechanik AG / Alpnach / Switzerland.

Sapphire crystal
The sapphire crystals are manufactured by Stettler in Lyss / Switzerland. Both sides are treated with anti-reflective coating by Econorm in St-Imier / Switzerland.

Base movement
Ulysse Nardin UN-118 with 60 hours power reserve. Hand-regulated by ochs und junior to 0/+5 seconds per day. Manufacturer: Ulysse Nardin SA / Le Locle / Switzerland.

Watch straps
Over 80 possibilities in sturgeon, textile, leather, suede or rubber

Buckle
Designed by Ludwig Oechslin for 22mm watch straps with no loops. Visible machining marks. Grade 5 titanium or sterling silver 925, additional materials upon request. Manufacturer: Helfenstein Mechanik AG / Alpnach / Switzerland.

Leave a Reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.