Voutilainen X Leijona: Heritage 1907 Collection

November 16, 2021November 17, 2021 MasterHorologer

Leijona a historic watch brand that proudly keeps an enduring relationship with two countries: Switzerland and Finland.

Leijona means Lion in Finnish language. The brand traces its history to the last decades of the 19th century. Initially, Leijona watches were made in Switzerland. Since then, it has remained a popular watch brand in Finland. However, after the quartz crisis, the production of Leijona watches has been moved out from the country.

Finnish company Perkko has collaborated with Master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen and launched Leijona Heritage Collection as a tribute to the brand’s Swiss origins. This new series is comprised of Swiss made watches produced in the valley of Val-de-Travers.

Leijona watch brand was originated in the famous watchmaking valley of Val-de-Travers in Switzerland. Since 1892, a watchmaking company named Manufacture d’Horlogerie Lion SA had been the location where the watches bearing the distinct twin-tailed Leijona logo were made. The same logo, however, had already appeared on some of the pocket watches created by Albert Kenel in the 1880s, who would later be hired to work at the Lion factory.

The first importer of the Leijona watch in Finland was J.W. Lindroos, a watch wholesaler and retailer based in Tampere. The first documented appearance of a Leijona watch in Finland was recorded in 1907, but Lindroos may very well have imported Leijona watches at an earlier period in time as well.

Voutilainen X Leijona Heritage 1907 Jalo

The last decade of the 18th century was a period of great unrest in Finland. The popularity of the Fennoman (Finnish nationalist) movement, which sought to establish the dominance of Finnish culture and the Finnish language in a country that was still ruled by the Russian Empire, was increasing by the day.

The Russianization policy at the turn of the century also contributed to the popularity of this historic movement. Many everyday items were given Finnish names, and so J.W. Lindroos decided to register his new Lion watches under the equivalent Finnish brand name “Leijona”.

The Finnish Coat of Arms has featured a lion since the Middle Ages, and it is most likely for this reason that the Leijona watch became a symbol that the populace could use to discretely show which side they stood on. While this may sound like a small gesture, it was anything but – even the act of displaying the wrong type of painting (for example, Edvard Isto’s “The Attack”, where the three-headed Russian eagle attacks the Finnish Maiden) could result in exile.

Voutilainen X Leijona Heritage 1907 Oiva Classic

The use of wristwatches became more widespread in Finland during the wars, and the Leijona watch could be seen on the wrists of those fighting for the independence and freedom of Finland during the Second World War. Finns have worn their Leijona watches as they reconstructed the country, educated themselves and gained new success across the globe. During all of this, the Leijona watch would always remain the best-selling timepiece in Finland, and the history of the Leijona watch encompasses hundreds of thousands of touching personal stories of success and loss.

On the 8th of November 1918, three brothers (Jalo, Urho and Oiva Perkko) founded a company bearing their family name, Oy Perkko Ab. One year later, they would purchase J.W. Lindroos’ business. Their brand portfolio now encompassed the watches made by Omega, Tissot, Certina, Rado, Leijona, Pierre Balmain and Jaz.

In 1939, Perkko became the first watch company in Finland to launch a gross price system to stabilize the retail prices of watches. The previous net price system had introduced an element of uncertainty to the market when it came to determining the “right price” of a watch.

Voutilainen X Leijona Heritage 1907 Urho Chrono

The Second World War would also cast its shadow on the Perkko family: the company’s managing clerk, C.U. Bergman, and Ensio Perkko, the son of managing director Jalo Perkko, perished on the front in 1941. The following year, Jalo himself died from his grief, after which his position in the company was passed on to his beloved wife, Esteri.

To honor the life’s work of her late spouse, in 1943 Esteri Perkko made the remarkable decision to donate 500,000 Finnish marks to the establishment of the Finnish School of Watchmaking. The school began its operations only a few months later in February 1944.

A lack of currency, strong import regulations and high tariffs created a good opportunity for smuggling activities. Coffee, watches, tobacco and money soon became the most smuggled items to Finland. Leijona watches would also become a popular item with smugglers, as tens of thousands of Leijona wristwatches were smuggled to the country.

The ever-popular Leijona watches were easy to smuggle as, by the 50s, the watches were manufactured in numerous Swiss watch factories across Switzerland. For its part, the Perkko Company attempted to restrain these activities by registering the Leijona trademark in Sweden, which had served as the main thoroughfare for watch smugglers, and by having its factories stamp the letter P on each genuine Leijona watch.

In the 70s, Quartz watches became increasingly widespread and completely disrupted the market for traditional mechanical watches. The Swiss watchmaking industry was badly behind in the development of its quartz machineries, and it was decided at this time that the production of Leijona watches would be moved from Switzerland to Japan, which would allow for more affordable consumer prices and further increase the popularity of the Leijona brand.

Leijona is Finland’s oldest and best-selling watch brand of all time, with hundreds of thousands of satisfied consumers. Despite the fact that the Leijona watch has always been considered a “Finnish watch”, its origins lie in Switzerland. With the new Heritage Collection, the Leijona watch now returns to Switzerland and the same famous watchmaking valley of Val-de-Travers from which it once departed, but this time to the village of Môtiers and the studio of Kari Voutilainen, the Finnish watchmaker extraordinaire. A new page in history has been turned.

During the era of Finnish import regulations in the 1950s, Oy Perkko Ab stamped every watch that came through its official channels with its own stamp to weed out the market for smuggled Leijona watches.

To honor the company’s past, this same stamp can be seen in the back of Heritage Collection watches which has a solid caseback (Oiva & Jalo).

Leijona Heritage 1907 Collection

In 2017, Perkko, the Finnish company that owns the Leijona watch brand decided to create a Swiss made watch collection inspired by its history and approached master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen for this project.

The conceptual design of this milestone collection was done in Finland by Perkko. The Leijona Heritage watches are manufactured in Switzerland under the proficient supervision of Voutilainen.

The cases are manufactured by Voutilainen & Cattin SA who also assembles the complete watches. The dials are made by Comblémine SA, the dial manufactory established by Kari Voutilainen. The straps are made by Rhein Fils.

Inspired by the historic Leijona watches, this series is comprised of three different models – Jalo, Urho and Oiva – representing the first names of the three Perkko brothers. The Leijona Heritage 1907 collection now includes three categories: Classic (Oiva and Môtiers), Sport (Jalo) and Chronograph (Urho).

Leijona Heritage 1907 Môtiers Classic Limited Edition

The Leijona Môtiers Classic Limited Edition celebrates the collaboration between Leijona and Kari Voutilainen, as well as the village of Môtiers, located in the valley of Val-de-Travers, where the watches are produced. The blue color of the dial invokes the atmosphere of Val-de-Travers, and blue is also the favorite color of Voutilainen. Introduced in 2019, this timepiece was limited to 50 pieces. Sold out.

Leijona Heritage Môtiers Limited Edition, Reference: 19.300.02.311

Technical details

Dimensions of case: width 39 mm & thickness 11,6 mm
Dial colour: Blue sky
Crystal: Sapphire
Caliber: Sellita SW200-1 self-winding movement
Case material: Stainless steel
Strap material and colour: alligator leather, brown
Strap dimensions: width 20 mm
Water resistance: 30 m
Power reserve: 38 hours
Price: 2,790 Euros
Origin: Swiss Made

Leijona Heritage 1907 Oiva Classic

The Leijona Oiva Classic automatic wristwatch is inspired by the style of the Leijona watches made in the 1950s. Its clean and harmonious appearance exudes a timeless sense of style that makes a real statement.

Oiva Classic Graphite Black, Reference: 19.300.01.210

The name of the model is a reference to one of the founding brothers of Oy Perkko Ab, Oiva Perkko. Oiva was the oldest of the brothers and very skilled goldsmith in his own right. He served as the director of the store that the brothers purchased from J.W. Lindroos. Oiva was known for his restrained and balanced nature, and these qualities can be seen in this namesake watch as well.

Oiva Classic Ivory White, Reference: 19.300.01.110

Equipped with the Sellita SW200-1 self-winding movement, this stainless steel watch is available in two dial colors: Graphite Black and White.

Technical details

Case: Stainless steel
Thickness: 11.6 mm
Width without the crown: 39 mm
Width with the crown: 42.60 mm
Lug to Lug: 48.72 mm
Dial: Graphite Black/ White
Strap width: 20 mm
Crystal: Sapphire, 1.5 mm thick
Movement: Sellita SW200-1, power reserve 38 h
Water resistance: 30 m
Price: 2,590 Euros
Origin: Swiss Made

Leijona Heritage 1907 Jalo

Leijona Jalo Sport is a practical and robust watch that is also equally elegant and sporty in appearance. The design of the watch is based on the style of the Leijona watches made in the 1960s.

Jalo Sport Royal Blue, Reference: 19.200.01.310

Jalo Sport is named after Jalo Perkko, one of the three founding brothers of the company and the company’s beloved managing director who was famed for his honest nature and bold initiatives.

Jalo Sport Sunburst Gray, Reference: 19.200.01.410

This stainless steel watch has a water resistance of 100 meters. It houses the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement. The Leijona Heritage Jalo Sport model is available in two dial versions: Royal Blue and Sunburst Gray.

Technical details

Case: Stainless steel
Thickness: 13.20 mm
Width without the crown: 45 mm
Width with the crown: 48.60 mm
Lug to Lug: 53.50 mm
Dial: Royal Blue/ Sunburst Gray
Strap: Leather & rubber hybrid strap made by Rhein Fils
Strap width: 22 mm
Crystal: Sapphire, 1.65 mm thick
Movement: Sellita SW200-1, power reserve 38 h
Water resistance: 100 m
Price: 2,590 Euros
Origin: Swiss Made

Leijona Heritage 1907 Urho

The Urho Chronograph is a testament to the daring speed and aesthetic qualities of the 1970s. Urho Perkko was the youngest of the three founding brothers and a highly skilled watchmaker. Urho was responsible for the company’s office in Vyborg, and he was known for his meticulous nature and acute sense of style.

Urho Chrono Black, Reference: 19.100.01.210

This stainless steel automatic chronograph watch is equipped with the Sellita SW510 BH movement. Measuring 42mm in diameter, the watch is water resistant to 100 meters.

Urho Chrono White Panda, Reference: 19.100.01.110

The Leijona Heritage 1907 Urho chronograph is available in three dial versions: Black, White Panda and Toivo (with deep blue sky dial with satin silver sub-dials).

Urho Chrono Toivo, Reference: 20.100.01.310

Technical details

Case: Stainless steel
Thickness: 15.75 mm
Width without the crown: 42 mm
Width with the crown: 58.60 mm
Lug to Lug: 52.82 mm
Strap: Ventilated leather strap by Rhein Fils, stainless steel pin buckle
Strap color: Black, Blue or Tan
Strap width: 22 mm
Crystal: Sapphire both front and back, 1.65 mm thick
Movement: Sellita SW510 BH, power reserve 48 h
Water resistance: 100 m
Price: 4,990 Euros
Origin: Swiss Made

Website: https://leijonaheritage.com/

UNDONE x Monopoly collection: MONEYMAN by Stephen Bliss

October 12, 2020May 2, 2022 MasterHorologer

This limited edition collection was created in collaboration with Stephen Bliss, the artist of one of the biggest titles in videogame history. In this ground-breaking collaboration, Stephen Bliss, the artist who established the highly recognizable, illustrative style we all know and love, brings his iconic pop-culture influences and a morbid sense of humour to UNDONE’s set of two limited edition Monopoly Collector’s timepieces. Each model is limited to 500 pieces.

The Benjamin

“The Benjamin” by Stephen Bliss is a United States Series 2006A, $100 banknote you can wear on your wrist! Signed off not by the US Secretary of Treasury but by Stephen himself; the dial features the authentic Monopoly board-game patent number (“No. 2,026,082” registered by the Parker Brothers back in December 31, 1935) cleverly disguised as a U.S. Mint issuance number.

The greenback themed timepiece is complimented by Genuine Brown Calf straps featuring UNDONE’s signature quick-release technology. The sub-dials featuring the Monopoly seal and Uncle Pennybags lume up under UV light, much like the anti-counterfeiting measures of modern banknotes. The ‘applied sword’ indices and the silver tachymeter reinforce the theme by adding an extra dimension of Mr Monopoly breaking out of a bank vault.

The Godfather

“The Godfather” by Stephen Bliss has all the elements and subtleties expected of a classy dress watch; applied indices, a Monopoly-red minute track along with the blend of brush and polished finishing ensures a sophisticated feel without the garishness of too-much gold. The Black Cordura quick-release strap makes this a versatile piece perfect for both tux and party occasions. But there’s more… the glint of the gold-pressed banknotes spraying out from Mr Monopoly’s twin cash cannons against the guillochéd subdials are visible only from particular angles.

Each watch caseback comes laser engraved with one of five special parodies of the classic “Chance/Community Chest”, all designed by Bliss. Both the Benjamin and the Godfather watch models come in a premium “Luxury Tax” tin case, complete with a commemorative golden 1M Monopoly bill featuring Rich Uncle Pennybags and Penny Gladrags.

Technical details

Case
316L Stainless Steel
Width 41.8 mm excl. crown
Thickness 12 mm incl. crystal
Crystal: Hardened Domed K1 Crystal
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 Meters

Movement
Seiko Instruments Inc. VK64 Mechanical-Quartz Hybrid Flyback Chronograph

Strap
Size: 20 mm

Price
$480 USD

[UNDONE Watches are now available at Watches.com]

UNDONE x Batman 80th Anniversary Collection: “The Caped Crusader” and “The Dark Knight”

October 12, 2020May 2, 2022 MasterHorologer

On 5th December 2019, UNDONE announced a three-year global licensing agreement with Warner Bros.

Since his first appearance on the pages of DETECTIVE COMICS #27 on March 30, 1939, Batman’s role and look as a crime-fighting cultural icon continues to evolve in our collective consciousness. In 2019, Batman celebrated his 80th anniversary and to celebrate this milestone UNDONE designed a premium collection, which is also the first Titanium model from the Hong Kong based watch brand.

The UNDONE x BATMAN 80th Anniversary Collection pays homage to perhaps two of the most definitive eras in Batman’s evolution: The Caped Crusader and The Dark Knight.

The Caped Crusader model features a Grade II Titanium body. The cushion-case, crown and pushers are light weight, agile and highly corrosion resistant.

The case has a micro-blasted finish for ultimate stealth and its aggressive shoulder lines are reminiscent of the Batmobile. The distinctive yellow can be found on the centre console, circling the tachymetre and its “80” mark, a nod to Batman’s 80th anniversary.

Further, on the chronograph seconds, hands and subdials, the classic oval insignia (1989-1993) in the form of a Batarang (the bat-shaped throwing weapon used by Batman) can be found.

Equally fearsome in the dark, the dial reveals a green luminous detect-a-scope and Bat-Signal minute subdial whilst the hands and applied indices are an icy blue.

The Dark Knight is a realistic interpretation on the duality of Bruce Wayne/Batman’s identities. The matted grey look of the Titanium micro-blasted cushion case along with the two-tone dial design converges to an almost “Noir”/ “B&W movie” aesthetic.

Here you will find the 2011 NEW 52 COMICS version of the Bat emblem stealthily debossed into the subdial. In the darkness, the lume on the appliques and chronograph counters come alive like the blue-nitrous boosters of the Batmobile’s powerful engine.

“The Caped Crusader” and “The Dark Knight” will come in an open glass case back, laser serialized with a special commemorative Batman 80th Anniversary badge based on the cover of DETECTIVE COMICS #27 on March 30, 1939. Both models will arrive in a tactical, yet stylish metal carrying case featuring the Bat emblem.

UNDONE has committed to donate a portion of the proceeds on this project to support the heroic work of the Hope For Henry Foundation; who help seriously ill children and their families through difficult times.

Both “The Caped Crusader” and “The Dark Knight” are housed in Grade II Titanium; a 25% weight reduction from the regular UNDONE Urban series. The case measures in at 40mm diameter (43mm including crown) and 48mm lug-to-lug length. Height has been reduced by 0.5mm to 13.3mm; making this whole new chassis lighter and thinner. The case back highlights the commemorative Batman 80th Anniversary badge.

The watches are powered by the Japanese TMI VK64 Mechanical-Quartz Hybrid Flyback Chronograph movement.

Recommended retail price of UNDONE x Batman 80th Anniversary watch is USD $359.

[UNDONE Watches are now available at Watches.com]

BOTTA TRES 24 Plus Titan

October 11, 2020May 25, 2022 MasterHorologer

TRES is a three-hands watch from German watch brand BOTTA, who has been renowned for their classic single hand watches. This 12-hour, multi-hand watch combines apparent contrasts and builds a bridge between the classic functionalism of the BAUHAUS and timeless modern design. BOTTA also offers a 24-hour version of this three-hands watch.

Featuring a 24 hour dial, the TRES 24 represents the time analogous to the sun. The 24-hour dial mirrors exactly the day on earth: 12 hours day in the upper half and 12 hours night in the lower half. One complete rotation of the hour hand corresponds exactly to the rotation time of the earth around their own axis – that is 24 hours or one day. The date changes as soon as the hour hand crosses the date line on the lower half of the dial.

Made from stainless steel or titanium, both 12H and 24H watch models are available with automatic and quartz versions. The TRES 12H watch is available in 40 mm or 44 mm case size and the TRES 24H comes with an option of 40mm or 45mm case size.

In 2019, BOTTA introduced TRES 24 plus titan, the new 24-hour three-hand watch with a protected design, three-part titanium case and second indicator. For the second generation of the all-day watch, the dial graphics have now been made much quieter. Instead of the usual second hand, it now has the innovative second indicator.

The TRES 24 plus titan features a 45mm diameter case made entirely of titanium. Each TRES 24 plus titan automatic version houses a Swiss made ETA 2893-2. Its quartz counterpart is powered by the RONDA 515.24H Swiss-made calibre.

Three different titanium alloys are used for the new three-part case to ensure the best characteristics. This special case construction is currently only available from BOTTA. Like the entire watch, the second indicator is registered for “protected design”.

BOTTA has developed the new C pointer for the new TRES 24 plus titan. It consists of a small second disc with an open circle printed on it. The opening replaces the usual second hand. In favour of a calmer display of the progressing time, the second hand is deliberately omitted. The minimal movement of the “C” only becomes visible on closer inspection – nevertheless, half or quarter minutes can be easily estimated.

Titanium is the most precious of the light metals and has numerous outstanding properties such as high strength at low weight, good dimensional stability or absolute absence of allergies. Depending on the type of titanium, one of the properties predominates. Thanks to the new three-layer structure, BOTTA has optimally combined these properties in the TRES 24 plus titanium.

For the most stressed top ring around the sapphire crystal, a particularly resistant titanium alloy is chosen, which is otherwise used in turbine and aircraft construction, for example. The central part of the housing is made of a mechanically improved version of pure titanium. The bottom itself is made of a titanium grade that is used in the medical sector.

Technical details

Model: BOTTA TRES 24 Plus Titan

Case
Titanium
Diameter: 45 mm
Height: 9.5 mm (automatic version)/8.5mm (Quartz version)
Glass: Double domed sapphire crystal with double scratch resistant anti-reflection coating
Water resistance: 5 ATM

Movement
Automatic: ETA 2893-2 Swiss Made, individually adjusted by hand
Quartz: RONDA 515.24H Swiss-made, battery type 371

Functions
24-hour multi-hand watch with date

Strap
Allergy-free, vegetable tanned bio-leather strap
Leather strap
Rubber strap
Steel link bracelet
Milanese strap
Saddle leather strap

Price
Automatic: From 1590 Euros
Quartz: From 498 Euros

ROUE TPS (Tachymeter Pulsometer Chronograph)

October 9, 2020 MasterHorologer

Launched at the end of 2019, TPS, which stands for Tachymeter & Pulsometer, has been dedicated to the vintage watch aficionados who look for modern interpretations. The new model is based on the early sixties refined and detailed chronographs.

ROUE TPS is a tribute to the Porsche 910, winner of the Nürburgring 1000 kilometer race in 1967. This car gave Porsche the most sentimental of its victories after a decade of trying an overall win in Germany’s most prestigious sports car race.

The homage is present in an elaborated embossed car front drawn on the screw case-back. This new ROUE watch houses a reliable Seiko VK63 meca-quartz movement. Manufactured by Seiko Instruments Inc. in Japan, this hybrid mechanical-quartz movement incorporates a mechanical module for chronograph function and quartz technology for other indication.

The ROUE TPS watch dial features centre hour& minutes hands, small seconds at 6 o’ clock, 24 hour indicator at 3 o’ clock, 60 minute counter at 9 o’ clock and chronograph centre second hand. Featuring a triple-layer design, the dial features Swiss Super luminous hour indexes and Tachymeter & Pulsometer scales.

The model has a round stainless steel case with circular brushing on top, horizontal on the sides and polished details on the sharp lug edges. With large chronograph pushers its measures are 40 mm in diameter, 13.4 mm thickness, and 48 mm lug to lug. It fits 20 mm wide straps.

The crystal is a double dome K1 mineral glass with anti-reflective treatment inside and sapphire coating outside. The screw-in case-back of the watch is embossed with a 3D art-work.

The ROUE TPS watch is available in three color-ways: TPS 1 (Black dial), TPS 2 (silver dial) and TPS3 (blue dial). Each timepiece is delivered with two straps: Genuine perforated Driver style leather and Sports silicone.

With the help of Easy interchangeable bands system, the straps can be swapped quickly. TPS 1 comes with a black leather strap and a black silicone strap. With TPS 2 & TPS 3, the brand offers a caramel leather strap + grey silicone strap.

Retail price of the ROUE TPS watch is approximately US$ 290.00. The ROUE TPS watch is limited to 1000 pieces and individually numbered.

Technical details

Case
Made of 316L polished stainless steel with brushed finishing
Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 13.4mm
Lug width: 20mm
Double Dome K1 mineral glass with anti-reflective treatment inside and sapphire coating outside
50 meters water resistance
Screw-back case with embossed 3D artwork

Dial
Triple layer dial construction
Tachymeter and pulsometer
Printed Swiss Super luminous
Sub dials functions:
• Left counts chronograph minutes
• Center displays seconds from time function
• Right indicates am/pm.

Movement
Japanese Seiko caliber VK63 chronograph hybrid meca-quartz movement

Straps
2 straps included: Genuine perforated Driver style leather and Sports silicone
Easy interchangeable bands system

Warranty
Two years international warranty

Limited edition
Limited to 1000 pieces and individually numbered

REC Watches RJM Bluebird Limited Edition

October 8, 2020 MasterHorologer

Introduced in 2019, the RJM Bluebird by REC Watches incorporate aluminum from the wings of a 1944 Spitfire aircraft that crashed on the Russian Tundra during WW2. This timepiece is limited to 334 pieces.

The RJM collection was first introduced in December 2008 as a tribute to the mighty Spitfire aircrafts. The RJM 04 BLUEBIRD is the fourth timepiece from this family. In 1945, a Spitfire aircraft crashed on the Russian tundra during a dogfight. This incredible story is captivated in the RJM 04 BLUEBIRD, which also marks end of an era for the RJM as it completes the collection.

The RJM 04 BLUEBIRD features a blue sunburst dial and a blue woven strap, honoring the RAF pilots and their famous blue uniform. The story of how the azure color became synonymous with the uniforms of the British Royal Air Force pre-dates the RAF itself, as the blue fabric was originally manufactured for the Russian army. However due to the Russian Revolution the RAF acquired these uniforms after having been founded in 1918.

It sports a 40mm diameter stainless steel case with sapphire crystal top glass and mineral crystal case-back. The mechanical engine that powers this timepiece is a MIYOTA 9015 automatic caliber with a power reserve of more than 40 hours. Its oscillating weight takes inspiration from the spitfire metal rivet construction.

In honor of this one-of-a-kind aircraft, the brand has been donating part of the proceeds of every sold RJM timepiece towards the restoration of PT879, the donor Mark IX Spitfire aircraft.

Design highlights

The four “holes” on the tip marks the number of blades on the MK IX Spitfire Aircraft Rotol propeller.
The crown guard is heavily inspired by the Spitfire elliptical wing shape & wing structure.
The blue woven strap is as a tribute to the RAF pilots and their famous blue uniform.
The case shape is inspired by the watches worn by the British Royal Airforce and the British Army during WWII – with a modern twist and proportions.
The crown tip is inspired by the nose cone of the Spitfire fighter mixed with a traditional diamond shaped crown.
The rotor decoration is inspired by the spitfire metal rivet construction.
The date window is recycled from a piece of untreated aluminum cut directly from the PT879 MK IX Spitfire aircraft.

Technical details

Model: The RJM Bluebird

Case
316L stainless steel case
Diameter: 40 MM
Opening diameter: 33 MM
Height: 10.9 MM
Top glass: Sapphire crystal with AR-coating
Mineral crystal caseback glass
Water resistance: 3 ATM, 30 meters

Movement
MIYOTA Cal. 9015 with rotor decoration
Type: Mechanical, self-winding
Frequency: 28,800 VPH
Power reserve: 40+ hours
24 jewels

Dial
Blue Sunburst Dial with powerful lume on hands and hour markers
Date aperture at 6H

Strap
Filt / Calf leather inner lining strap
Strap width: 20 mm

Warranty
2 years full warranty

Recommended retail price
$1,295.00 USD / € 1,745.00 EUR

UNDONE Basecamp Cali Automatic

October 6, 2020May 2, 2022 MasterHorologer

Inspired by the legendary California dial military diving watches of the WWII era, UNDONE has created the Basecamp Cali watch. At almost a century old, the peculiar design is still distinguishable by the unchanged half Arabic – half Roman numerical layout.

Quartered by horizontal markers and a triangle; laid on thick for ease of application and higher legibility, this design has been highly sought-after by the watch connoisseurs who prefer a more esoteric, vintage twist.

At a glance this dial will appear the typical California design, highly legible, slightly barmy and eclectic. However, catch it in the right lighting and the blank area reveals an intricate, waffle pattern typically found on dress watches; fine lines that allow the light to explore deeper and bring an added dimension to the dial.

The Basecamp Cali watch is available in Olive Green, Ebony Black and Blue dial versions. The default configuration will ship with the classic Mercedes hour and sword minutes handset and in true UNDONE style, users will be able to customize this to suit.

The UNDONE Basecamp Cali automatic watch features a 316L stainless steel case; circular brushed on top and polished along the sides and chamfers. The case measures in at 40mm diameter, 48mm lug-to-lug and 20mm strap width. Height comes in at 15mm from case back to the top of the double-domed Lexan Polycarbonate crystal; which gives it that curvaceous side profile.

The smooth-rotating bezel uses a K1 glass insert; an upgrade from the original Plexiglass, adding more depth and durability without forfeiting the vintage feel.

Powering the Basecamp Cali is the tried and trusted SII NH35A self-winding hackable movement, which displays time in a three-hand format.

As part of the continuous upgrade of components and materials, Basecamp has been rated at 100m water resistance with the inside protected by a screw down case back and crown; both octagonal in design for added grip and giving the watch subtle, angular definitions.

Retail price the UNDONE Basecamp Cali watch is $315 USD (excluding personalization).

Technical details

Movement
Japanese TMI NH35A Automatic Winding Mechanism

Case
316L Stainless Steel
Width: 40mm excl. crown
Thickness: 15mm incl. crystal
Lug width: 20mm
LEXAN Polycarbonate glass
Water resistance: 10 Bar / 100 Meters

[UNDONE Watches are now available at Watches.com]

UNDONE Type 20

October 5, 2020May 2, 2022 MasterHorologer

Introduced in 2019, the UNDONE Type 20 watch model pays homage to the gallantry of fighter pilots and their high-precision instruments. Type 20 belongs to UNDONE’s best-selling Urban collection, which offers timepieces that incorporate both retro and modern designs, ranging from suave to street-smart.

The original Type 20 began as standard-issue equipment for the French Air Force and Naval Aviation personnel in the 1950s. It became one of the most popular pilot watches in the post-WWII period, a time often dubbed as the “golden age” of mechanical watches. UNDONE now brings consumers a current, customizable recreation of the Type 20.

UNDONE’s Type 20 boasts a well-balanced body that features two iconic, oversized “big eye” sub-dials, presented in a brushed and polished 316L stainless steel case. Its “coin” bezel and large “diamond” crown also hark back to the glory days, when they gave added tactile benefit to pilots wearing thick leather gloves. Its new, sweeping chrono second hand is a fresh look for UNDONE – it is subtly ornamented with an arrow at the end, a detail reminiscent of old military watches.

The Type 20 collection marries the aesthetics of a bygone era with UNDONE’s exemplary customization options. Type 20 has three pre-set designs: Classic, Panda and Special Edition.

The Type 20 “Classic” dial is black with vintage lumed numerals. The Type 20 “Panda” dial is white, with black numerals and black sub-dials. Hands for both the “Classic” and “Panda” come in black or white, while the 20mm strap options are more varied, with 15 different picks of materials, textures or colors.

Limited to 150 pieces, the Type 20 “Special Edition” is a contemporary interpretation of the original watch. Set in a black case, it displays a black dial background with light blue numerals and white sub-dials, which, along with its white hands, glow blue instead of the traditional green. This model comes with two black straps, in Cordura and NATO styles.

The nostalgic navigator’s watch is powered by a mecha-quartz Seiko VK64 hybrid movement, with a mechanical 60-minute sweeping chronograph fly-back reset: the elegance of a mechanical coupled with the reliability and precision of a quartz calibre.

Its case width measures 41.5mm excluding the crown, and is 12.1mm thick including the hardened domed K1 crystal. Initials can be added onto the Type 20 at the 12 o’clock position, and, typical of UNDONE timepieces, casebacks are customizable with glass, engravings and prints.

Retail price is US$ 289.

Technical details

Model: UNDONE Type 20

Movement
Japanese TMI VK64 Mechanical-Quartz Hybrid Flyback Chronograph

Case
316L Stainless Steel case
Diameter: 41.5mm excl. crown
Thickness: 12.5mm incl. crystal
Lug width: 20mm
Glass: Hardened Domed K1 Crystal
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 Meters

Dial
Classic: Black dial
Panda: White dial with black counters
Special Edition: Black dial with white counters and blue numerals

[UNDONE Watches are now available at Watches.com]

Feynman One

August 13, 2020August 13, 2020 MasterHorologer

Feynman is a Singapore based watch brand founded by Yong Keong. In December 2018, the brand announced its first timepiece, the Feynman One. To realize their first project, the brand successfully raised an amount of S$ 58,750 from its online crowd-funding campaign hosted on Kickstarter.

The inaugural model from the brand, the Feynman One is a mechanical wristwatch created as a tribute to the Mother Nature, and mankind’s creations inspired by the Nature. It is a modern mechanical watch specially designed for urban customers.

This timepiece takes its design inspiration from the Golden Ratio. If you closely observe the watch, you will find the perfect utilization of the Golden Ratio principles at multiple locations. Interestingly, some minor deviations to the principle were also made to allow for an overall sense of balance.

The Feynman One boasts an interesting, multi-layer dial design featuring three closely blended dials: The main dial ring, the centre dial and the small seconds dial. Adhering to the principle of the Golden ratio, these three dials are all in perfect proportion and distance to each other.

The main dial’s sunburst radial-effect surface provides a picture perfect aesthetic to the largely rounded designs of the other components. The honeycomb pattern on the centre dial is a reference to one of the finest examples of nature’s application of the Golden Ratio.

The honey-comb patterned centre dial is circled by a slightly escalated ring structure with a side opening (from 6h to 8h) beneath the top hour marker ring. This opening allows uninterrupted movement of the seconds-hand of the small-seconds dial, whose utmost area is placed on the centre dial and leftover area with the main dial. At the dial centre, you can see Feuille shaped hour and minute hands as well as a pinion cap.

In the small-seconds dial, the area placed on the centre dial features honey-comb pattern where as the area on the main dial has a radial pattern. A white colored dial ring with black markers circles the small-seconds dial.

Although the rehaut (flange) as well as the dial rings of centre and small-seconds dials share a similar design, you will find some small differences when you observe the dial details closely. On the rehaut, 12 & 6 hours are Roman numerals where as on the centre dial ring Arabic numerals are used to indicate 12h and 6h. On the small seconds dial ring, 30 and 60 are represented by their corresponding Chinese numerals.

The main dial also features an offset, three-dimensional ledge to display the brand name without distracting from the overall design of the watch face. It is interesting to see that the curved seconds-hand and branding ledge impersonate the tails of lizards, while the lugs of the watch were inspired by their legs.

Each Feynman One watch features a meticulously finished stainless steel case with 39mm diameter, which is a perfect size for classic dress watches. The case thickness is 12.5mm including the front and back crystals.

Front glass is domed sapphire crystal and the rear side of the watch is secure with a sloped sapphire exhibition case-back. The additional depth of the case design ensures sufficient space for the “floating” hour track, as well as the elevated hour and minute hands.

The coin-edged case-side is inspired by the fine gears within a mechanical watch movement, along with the facets of the crown. Finishing plays a major part in the Feynman One collection. Vertical brushing and mirror polishing alternate around the case, while the coin-edge case side is polished on every facet like high-end watches.

The Feynman One watch is driven by the ETA Peseux 7001 Swiss mechanical manual wound movement. The movements used in the Feynman One collection are all certified ETA TOP-Grade, and also fully decorated. This legendary movement can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback.

All Feynman One watches come with a pair of genuine leather straps crafted by local artisan Yi Leather in Singapore. Each strap has been crafted from lizard leather, cut to taper, stitched by hand and painted to finish by Shuyi Ng. The straps feature a proprietary signed clasp attached, designed to provide a snug fit on the strap.

The Feynman One watch is available in six variants: Classic, One-Eye Panda, Founders edition, Eclipse, Wine and Olive retail exclusive edition.

Highlighted with a monotone and harmonious palette, the Feynman One Classic model features an elegant grey main dial, black honey-comb patterned centre and small-seconds dials, silver hands and blued pinion cap. This watch is fitted with a matching grey lizard strap.

Featuring a striking silver colored main dial that maintains a perfect contrast with its black honey-comb patterned centre and small-seconds dials, the Feynman One One-Eye Panda model offers an elegant view reminiscent of the classic Panda dial watches. This model features silver colored steel hands, blued pinion strap and brown lizard strap.

The Feynman One “Eclipse” model features a cosmos inspired blue main dial, black honey-comb patterned centre and small-seconds dials, silver colored steel hands, blued pinion cap and blue colored “XII” and “VI” Rehaut indices. The watch is fitted with a matching blue lizard strap.

The limited series Feynman One Founder’s Edition, which was made only in 50 pieces, features a teal-green main dial, black honey-comb pattern centre and small-seconds dials, rose gold hands and a gold pinion cap. This watch model is fitted with a black lizard strap with green side-edges and brown stitching.

The Feynman One “Wine” is the most vivacious timepiece in the Feynman One collection. This version features a wine inspired deep red main dial that varies its shade from burgundy to red influenced by the variations of natural light.

This lively dial is paired with black honey-comb pattern centre and small-seconds dials, silver colored steel hands, black pinion cap, red colored “XII” and “VI” rehaut indices and a wine-red lizard strap.

The Feynman One “Olive” model features an olive colored main dial paired with dark-grey colored honey-comb pattern centre and small-seconds dials. The model features silver colored steel hands, silver colored pinion cap, olive colored “XII” and “VI” rehaut indices and an olive-green lizard strap.

This model is a retailer exclusive, and is only available through the brand’s authorised dealers: The Watchdrobe (Hong Kong), Watch Wonderland (Singapore) and Stitches & Buckles (Singapore).

Technical details

Movement
ETA Peseux 7001 Swiss made manual winding movement
Reserve: 42 hours
Frequency: 21600 vph
Jewels: 17

Case
Stainless steel case
Diameter: 39mm
Lug to Lug: 45mm
Case Height: 12.5mm
Lug Width: 20mm
Water resistance: 50m / 5atm

Strap
Genuine lizard leather strap with tang buckle
Strap width: 20mm, Tapers to 18mm

Retail price
SGD$1,388.00

Alchemists Cu29

July 28, 2020 MasterHorologer

The Alchemists Cu29 is the introductory piece of the trilogy of timepieces from Alchemists Mechanical Healing S.A., an haute-horlogerie company based in Saignelégier in Switzerland.

Cu29 refers to Copper, the chemical element with the atomic value of 29 and represented by the symbol Cu (from Latin: cuprum). Since ancient times, Copper has been known for its medicinal properties and its potential to relieve certain ailments. To implement these benefits of copper in high-end watchmaking, the company has developed Cuprum 479, an innovative horological alloy. The Cu29 is an extra-ordinary mechanical watch made from Cuprum 479.

The team Alchemists consists of three creative geniuses: Hervé Schlüchter, Fabrice Thüler and Denis Vipret.

As mentioned above, the Cu29 is the first opus of the total three timepieces proposed by Alchemists. For the trilogy, Alchemists developed three different manufacture movements on a common basis, infusing harmony and a soul for their project.

The Cu29 is the most essential timepiece of the trilogy. It is a horological masterpiece from Hervé Schlüchter following traditional horological art’s methods and savoir-faire, transmitted by Philippe Dufour, the world renowned master watchmaker. It is also a showcase for an innovative horological alloy, Cuprum 479.

The Cu29 highlights a universal heritage of traditional horological arts and crafts. The entire calibre and case are hand finished, with traditionally buffed and polished corners, drilled and hand-polished balance bridge and sweep second cock, escapement wheel on black polished end-stones, rounded and moveable Geneva hairspring stud holder, moulded, ringed and beveled wheel and intermediate wheels, and black-polished and hand-blued screws.

Amongst other techniques, the pivots are traditionally rolled on a lathe roller and the polishing of the pinion’s leaves is made with wooden wheels mounted on a specific machine.

The hours, minutes and seconds hands are rounded by hand and then blued and lacquered. The power reserve and selector dial are made of black-polished steel adorned with a lacquered engraving. The double barrels linked in parallel are beveled and polished by hand. Each caliber leaving the Alchemists’ workshop is then individually numbered.

The Cu29 has numerous specialties, drawing inspiration from horology’s heritage and history.

The regulating organ is held by a titanium bridge on its hairspring’s stud, finished and formed by hand. Its finishing and its curve make it a spectacular piece to behold in the Cu29’s mechanical landscape. The cylindrical hairspring is a tribute to ancient Marine chronometers, which once represented the apogee of horological precision and were constructed with a tridimensional architecture.

Finally, on a more philosophical manner, the Alchemists like to consider the assembly of the regulating organ and the cylindrical hairspring as a representation of spiritual elevation. It is also worth noticing that the escapement wheel is mounted on traditional end-stones.

The energy of the movement comes from the double barrels, this assembly of energy balance is a tribute to a watchmaker who marked history and whose career and philosophy are sources of inspiration for Hervé Schlüchter since years: Sir Georges Daniels. Dividing the energy between the two barrels allows attaining a greater stability in its diffusion; the two springs deliver a stable and linear torque, being the reason why the Cu29 offers a 72 hours chronometrical power reserve.

When carefully observing the double barrels’ assembly, there is one thing that is sure to catch the Cu29 wearer’s attention: the two mustache-shaped pawls. These two pawls are black polished and angled by hand by the Alchemists’ watchmakers. Their design and their location right above the barrels are uncommon and bring an additional charm to the timepiece.

The indirect second is suspended above the barrels and completes the assembly, the elevation of the small second derogates to horological tradition and represented a technical challenge in the conception of the movement, the gears had to be conceived in such manner as to remove potential play between them.

Among the last two displays of the Cu29’s dial are the peripheral rack and the functions selector. The peripheral rack is a rare display in watchmaking. By definition, the display is made along a curve, and the display arm is suspended in a vacuum, reinforcing the lightness and the aerial side of the timepiece’s architecture.

The functions selector is a visual indicator that allows the wearer to permanently know the position of the crown and easily wind or set the timepiece, removing the risks of wrong manipulation.

Finally, the global architecture of the timepiece, composed of a blend of different levels, was inspired by the suspended gardens of Babylon.

The Cu29’s fabrication also calls for particular techniques belonging to arts crafts’ heritage. “Shields”-shaped bridges, visible from the timepiece’s dials are hand decorated and allows for several types of finishing, among which hand-hammering or hand engraving. Both are techniques requiring years of expertise to achieve their perfect realization. The hand engraving of the “shields” also brings forth numerous personalization possibilities in which customers can let their imagination run freely.

The same holds true for the dial’s gemstones which are cut and formed by hand. Extraordinary craftsmanship skills are required and it demands an immense precision when cutting these pure gemstones, which do not require any surface treatment, before being pad printed and installed on a Cuprum 479 base. The dial assembly naturally preserves the beauty and purity of the stone.

The dials made from Grand Feu enamel are true works of art. The process to create enamel not only requires a highly specialized savoir-faire, but also a material base allowing its formation. Indeed, enamel dials can usually only be created on gold or copper bases, but after several months of development, the Alchemists were able to create Grand Feu enamel on a Cuprum 479 base, attesting once more of the purity and quality of this horological alloy.

All the Cu29’s parts thus obtain genuine added value from the watchmaker’s hand. The
Alchemists have no finishing workshop: the watchmaker receives the kit for each watch as a “blank”, meaning non-finished, and must do the hand-finishing him- or herself, as done back in the glory days of fine watchmaking and which very few traditional Maisons still know how to do today.

The skill level and passion required from each watchmaker of the Alchemists are particularly high. Only a small few of craftsmen in Switzerland are still able to hand finish and assemble each of his creations by him- or herself. Each creation of the Alchemists will be the child of a single individual watchmaker, from its assembly and adjusting to its most detailed hand finishing.

The production of Alchemists timepieces is consequently very limited, traditional methods on which their fabrication is based are not compatible with an industrial process. Each timepiece coming from the Alchemists’ workshop will therefore be an exclusive piece, carrying a will to perpetuate ancestral savoir-faire.

The hybrid case of the Cu29, the Alchemists’ signature, is composed of a Cuprum 479 base but most importantly, of a unique “atmospherical” glass.

The glass’ conception has no common measure with the glass-box from yesteryear, for three reasons:

Shape: It is atmospherical. The base of this atmosphere glass has a smaller diameter than that of its outside edge, meaning that the glass’ diameter gradually expands from the base until it takes on an atmospherical curve at its apex—exactly like the earth’s atmosphere, from whence it gets its name.
Construction: The Cu29’s atmosphere crystal is pierced by the crown tube, which is usually found in the case middle. Here, it is integrated directly into the atmosphere crystal.
Casing: This atmosphere glass has forced the Alchemists to perform the casing from above. The movement is thus screwed to the case middle, which is then covered by the atmosphere glass.

Finally, the Cu29 has no bezel or flange, thus enabling the movement to occupy the entire case. By this unique conception, the atmospherical sapphire glass of the Cu29 represents around 65% of the case’s volume, offering his or her wearer an emotional spectacle. It also highlights the 3D architecture of the manufacture movement.

Similar to traditional horology pieces, the Cu29 is constructed towards the notions of volume and symmetry; however the atypical arrangement of the Cu29’s case has led to the total transposition of the movement’s architecture.

Created in-house, the manufacture calibre composed of 362 parts and 56 jewels, is completely inverted compared to the traditional design. This conception allows the display of the hours, minutes and seconds but also the visual spectacle orchestrated by some of the movement’s parts, such as the double barrels linked in parallel extend directly from the winding stem.

In the Cu29, the symmetry of the double barrel at 6 o’clock offers a totally unique visual spectacle during the winding process, which allows to see each spring of the suspended moustache-shaped pawls wind with each click of the ratchet until the timepiece is fully wound.

The Cu29 is a timepiece equipped with a variable inertia balance and a cylindrical hairspring, located at 8 o’clock. Just above, between 10 and 11 o’clock, the power reserve is indicated by a cursor moving along a peripheral gear bar indexed from 0 to 72 hours. On the opposite side, between 2 and 3 o’clock, the selected function is indicated: W (Wind) or S (Set).

The hour dial, made from Grand Feu enamel or gemstone, is placed at 12 o’clock, and displays the hours and minutes. The small second is displayed off-center at 6 o’clock. The ring, calibrated into 60 trailing seconds, covers the two barrels of the Cu29.

The Cu29 can be highly personalized by the integration of dials, offered in different stones, up to the customers’ preferences. The selection of gemstones was guided by their elegance and their purity. In harmony with the spirit of their work, the Alchemists searched for pure gemstones which can be sublimed by hand and without treatment in order to preserve their quality and shine. As of now, Alchemists is offering two versions of the Cu29 timepiece with Lapis Lazuli or Black Jade dial.

Copper has been known across cultures for millennia for its benefits to the body and its potential to soothe certain ailments. Inspired by these beliefs, the Alchemists imagined how a timepiece could capture their essence, which led them to develop the Cuprum 479, a new innovative horological alloy, but also to reflect on its field of expression in their works. In this case, by placing it in contact with the skin thanks to the bottom of the case, made entirely with the alloy, delivering their interpretation of this historical lore.

The case of the Cu29 is crafted exclusively in Cuprum 479. The crown is also made of Cuprum, as well as the pin buckle, bottom plate, dial’s base, hours, minutes and seconds hands as well as the majority of the bridges.

Technical details

Model: Cu29

Introduced in : 2019

Movement
AC 003 (Alchemists Calibre 003)
Manual-winding mechanical manufacture movement, engraved and hand-bevelled double barrel linked in parallel, suspended “moustache” dual pawl winding. Ébauches in Cuprum 479, titanium and stainless steel. Entire calibre hand-finished, traditionally buffed and polished corners, rounded and hand-polished balance bridge and sweep second cock, escapement wheel, black-polished endstones, rounded and moveable Geneva hairspring stud holder. Moulded, ringed and bevelled wheel and intermediate wheels, black-polished and hand-blued screws, numbered calibre.
Diameter: 38 mm/ 17 lines
Power Reserve: 72h
Frequency: 21600 vib/hour, 3 hz
Balance: Variable inertia balance with weight screw
Balance Spring: Cylindrical, blued
Escapement: Swiss lever, 15 teeth
Jewels: 56
Number of components: 362

Functions
Hours and minutes offset at 12 o’clock, subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock, power reserve displayed via peripheral gear bar, function selector.

Case
Round with specific “atmosphere”-shaped sapphire crystal
Material: Cuprum 479
Diameter: 44 mm
Total thickness: 15.40 mm, top of crystal
Crown: Cuprum 479
Dual case back: Engraved Cuprum 479
Lug width: 20 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres

Dial
Dial hour minute and subsidiary seconds: Cuprum 479 base and rounded litho therapeutic stones.
Power reserve and selector dial: Black-polished steel, lacquered engraving
Hands (hour minute and seconds): Rounded, blued or lacquered
Power reserve indicator: Blued steel shape
Selector hand: Blued flat sword hands

Strap
Alligator leather, matt black
Buckle: Cuprum 479, pin buckle

GENUS GNS 1.2 RG (In Rose Gold)

July 23, 2020 MasterHorologer

This highly exceptional wristwatch in rose gold belongs to the GENUS GNS 1 collection that won the ‘Mechanical Exception’ award in the 2019 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). The other GNS 1 models are GNS 1.2 WG (white gold), GNS1.2 TD (Damascene Titanium) and GNS1.1 RG (rose gold).

Equipped with the 160R-1.2 manual winding movement designed in-house and manufactured by GENUS, the GNS1.2 RG (rose gold) watch displays time in a unique way that deconstructs the conventional systems.

On the display side, you can discover twelve satellites (blue with Arabic numerals), one for each hour. They each make a complete revolution every twelve hours around the periphery, flush with the crystal. The current hour is indicated by the red stationary fixed arrow on the left, in front of which the satellites pass. They remain aligned in the reading direction, by rotating 90° every 3 hours, i.e. four times on their 12-hour journey. The numerals affixed to the hour satellites are luminous and the result of meticulous design and artisanship.

Minutes are precisely divided into tens and single digits and are not indicated as an approximation. The red stationary arrow on the right, near the crown, points to the precise minute digit on a skeletonised rotary dial that is graduated from 0 to 9. In the center of the timepiece, two large blue counter-rotating wheels are graduated in increments of 10 minutes by cut-out numbers that seem to float in space.

The two minutes wheels drive a procession of lozenge-shaped pieces that travel freely from one orbit to the other. The way they progress in single file to express the passage of time in a large 8, symbol of infinity is the genesis of the time display concept of this watch. The first element of the procession indicates the tens-of-minutes. This is the lead indicator, called the Genus. It is followed by 11 Genera (the plural of Genus) which evoke a trailing memory of the elapsed minutes.

A rosette forms on the watch face every 15 and 45 minutes, alternating between the upper and lower minute wheels as the procession of the Genus and Genera progresses. This corollary mechanism draws the eye, ever so subtly, and gives the timepiece an ever-changing face. In it, some see an analemma, the figure 8 drawn in the sky by recording the different positions of the sun, at the same time and from the same location during a calendar year – a most convincing illustration of the passage of time.

For enhanced legibility in low light conditions, the elements providing time information are treated with a luminescent coating.

The manufacture movement in 18 carat rose gold – entirely designed, developed and assembled at the Geneva workshop – combines the functions of energy storage (winding and barrel), transmission (gear box) and time regulation (balance wheel, hairspring and escapement).

A single large-diameter barrel stores enough energy to ensure a power reserve of approximately fifty hours, which is considerable given the complexity of the calibre and the time indication components that need to be kept in motion. This hand-wound movement operates at 18,000 vibrations per hour or 2.5 Hz. Regulation is assured by a traditional Swiss anchor escapement, coupled with a balance hairspring and variable inertia balance wheel.

Avant-garde from the front, the movement seen from the back appears to be more classic, reminiscent of pocket watch movements. Although the layout may be seen as traditional, the actual construction is quite unusual. That is because the movement is made in two parts that separate power storage and transmission (cylinder & counter gear) from power distribution and regulation (escapement & hairspring).

The benefit is that the fluidity of each complication can be optimally verified and adjusted, by simply removing the power distribution and regulation part of the movement if additional adjustment steps are needed. A ruthenium treatment visually distinguishes the ‘separation of powers’ underscoring this aspect of the design with contrasting finishes and color choices.

The distinctive time display complication, being at the nexus of tradition, innovation and creative renewal, epitomizes the cornerstone of GENUS’ singularity: The arched bridges, the shape of the steel components (springs, scales) and wheels create a sophisticated style with contrasting points and curves. These inflection points create zones of variation in light giving added effect – the pleasing result of aesthetic choices combined with an extremely high level of finish. This ingenious, complex, and meticulously finished mechanism animates the passage of time in what we might describe as a fractioned manner.

Thanks to a sophisticated construction, the indices and Genera move with fluidity, precision, and reliability. The impression of the whole is that of an architectural object animated by moving elements that each plays a role in indicating the passage of time. Distilling the essence of the concept is the hypnotic display of tens of minutes, like a kinetic sculpture. The generous aperture of the watch face and domed crystal, sitting flush with the edge of the case, together provide optimal visibility for appreciation of the intricacies of the time-telling complication

The choice of 18K gold for building this watch is driven by a double ambition. Firstly, the nobility of GENUS resides in its watchmaking substance and legitimacy. It is therefore logical for it to be crafted in a noble material. Secondly, besides being synonymous with high value and exclusivity, 18K gold offers other advantages. It is largely immune to the detrimental influence of magnetic fields on a timepiece movement and it is extremely suitable for high levels of finishing and decoration.

All components have been designed and hand-worked in the brand’s Geneva workshop, in accordance with the exacting standards of Haute Horlogerie. The gears, main plate and bridges are all hand-bevelled, angled, and straight-grained by hand and most steel parts are mirror-polished.

In Haute Horlogerie, the mirror polish – also called “black polish” – represents the highest level of finish achievable on steel components. The steel parts are skillfully and delicately polished by hand in a circular pattern using diamantine powder on a zinc plate. The result is a perfectly pristine surface without the slightest hint of a mark, even under high magnification.

More than 4 hours of painstaking polishing and attention to detail are dedicated to achieve such a high-quality finish on components of such small dimensions – not counting the work that goes into hand-bevelling the sides.

The Manufacture movement comes with the same high standard of finishing. Meticulous care is taken at every step. The ratchet is snailed, the click spring is satin finished, the plate and four bridges are micro-blasted, creating a matte effect that gives more depth whilst allowing those parts that are polished to a shine, to stand out. All edges are hand-chamfered and polished by a demanding and uncompromising watchmaker.

The GNS1.2 watch features a meticulously designed 18K rose gold case, which is ergonomically comfortable and wearable on a daily basis. The case dimensions are dictated by the needs of the movement – 43 mm in diameter and 13.1 mm in thickness. The search for the ideal balance in terms of case style resulted in a subtle, downturned form. Distinctive yet understated as well as stable and very comfortable, the case naturally follows the curves of the wrist.

Like a jewellery display case, the minimalist cladding unobtrusively protects and at the same time showcases the inner workings of the GNS1.2WG architecture. The seamless integration of the domed sapphire crystal offers a spectacular and deep view into the lace-like intricacy of the time display complication.

The water resistant case (30 meters) shields the precision in-house movement and its complication module, from particulate matter, water, and perspiration. This impressive water resistance rating ensures optimum reliability for daily wear.

The case, movement main plate, bridges, and buckle are made of ethical 18K gold, certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC). The leather strap is sourced from a supply chain with certified traceability.

Technical details

Case
Material: 18K Rose Gold
Thickness: 13. 3 mm
Diameter: 43 mm
Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with antireflective coating
Crown: Gold 18K, G-E-N-U-S letters in relief around its circumference for winding grip
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM)

Movement
Calibre: 160R-1.2 manual winding
Designed in-house and manufactured by GENUS
Material: 18K solid gold, including main plate & bridges
Components: 418
Rubies: 26
Frequency: 2.5 Hz, or 18,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: About 50 hours
Regulating organ: Escapement with a Swiss anchor, hairspring, variable inertia balance wheel
Modular construction in two parts: One for power storage and transmission, the other for distribution and timing adjustment

Functions
Hours: 12 satellites/peripheral and axial rotation index (patented)
Tens of minutes: 12 free components circulating to-and-from between 2 counter rotating wheels (patented)
Units of minutes: Skeletonised disc
Numerals & indicators: With SuperLuminova™

Time reading
Time is read from left to right
– Left: Hour (12 moving indices, pass in front of a fixed arrow)
– Center: Tens-of-minutes (free-moving lead element – called the Genus – followed by its procession of 11 Genera)
– Right: Minute (near the crown, fixed arrow)

Strap
Calf (alligator upon request), folded-over and hand-stitched– Gold-brown
Buckle: 18K rose gold pin buckle
Clasp: Fold-over clasp available upon request

Recommended Retail Price
CHF 148 000 w/out tax
Gem-set version: Price upon request (is dependent upon personalization)

Louis Erard Excellence Regulator Limited Edition – Redesigned by Eric Giroud (References 86236AA21, 86236AA25 and 86236NN22)

July 19, 2020June 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

In 2019, Swiss watch brand Louis Erard relaunched its iconic Excellence Regulator watch, redesigned by Eric Giroud. This redesigned collection features three limited edition models.

With its unusual time display – the hours and seconds are off-centre – the Excellence Regulator has established the success of Louis Erard. In the re-designed edition, the 42-mm diameter stainless steel/ black PVD coated stainless steel case houses a Sellita SW200 self-winding mechanical movement with Dubois Dépraz complication.

The dial, available in an intense black, night blue or ivory white, displays the hours on a counter at 12 o’clock, the minutes on a central hand, the seconds on a second counter at 6 o’clock and the date at 3 o’clock. The leather strap matches the dials (black, blue, cognac) and is fitted with a folding clasp.

Stamped Swiss Made, these three new models are available in a limited edition of 178 each, from the brand’s approved dealers.

Technical details

Model: Louis Erard Excellence Regulator Limited Edition – Redesigned by Eric Giroud

Movement
Self-winding regulating calendar mechanism with date, Sellita SW200 calibre with Dubois Depraz 14072 complication. Enhanced version of the movement, Ø25.60 mm, height 4.60 mm, 26 jewels, 28’800 VpH (4Hz). Around 38 hours of power reserve.

Functions
HMS + Date
Hour hand on counter at 12 o’clock, central minute hand, second hand on counter at 6 o’clock
Date with anti-reflective coated magnifying glass at 3 o’clock

Case
Stainless steel or black PVD coated stainless steel, Ø42 mm, 3 parts, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, full case back, water-resistant up to a pressure of 5 bars (50 m/165 ft)

Dial
Black, blue or ivory white, chapter ring with minute indicators, date at 3 o’clock
Hands: Polished nickel

Strap
Black crocodile style calf leather with matching tone stitching, blue crocodile style calf leather with matching tone stitching or cognac calf leather with ivory stitching, stainless steel or black PVD coated stainless steel folding clasp

Louis Erard Excellence Régulateur Limited Edition with Mother-Of-Pearl Dial and Gem Set Bezel

July 19, 2020June 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

This new limited edition ladies’ watch from the Louis Erard Régulateur family features a mother-of-pearl dial and gem-set bezel adorned with 76 glittering diamonds.

Its stainless steel case measures 40mm diameter. This beautiful and distinctive gem-set watch is powered by the famous Peseux 7001 hand-wound movement clubbed with an exclusive Louis Erard complication, a regulator with a power reserve.

The regulator complication offers the natural elegance of clearing the dial, leaving optimal breathing room and readability to all the indications: hours, minutes, seconds and the power reserve. The two-level dial is elegantly composed of white mother-of-pearl open-worked to reveal the opaline counters and power reserve; and blue lancine-shaped hands.

On the reverse side, a transparent case back reveals the movement and its decorations: Côtes de Genève, blue screws and engraving. Offered in a limited edition of 50 pieces, this watch is mounted on an authentic alligator leather strap in a white hue to match the mother-of-pearl dial.

Technical details

Model: Louis Erard Excellence Régulateur Reference 54230SG04

Movement
Manual winding regulator with power reserve, ETA Peseux 7001 movement with Louis Erard RE9 complication, 10½’’’, Ø23.30 mm (Ø26.00 mm with module), height: 2.5 mm (4.7 mm with module), 17 jewels, 21,600 VpH (3Hz). Around 42 hours of power reserve. Top grade movement, decorated with Côtes de Genève, blue screws and Louis Erard engraving

Functions
HMS + power reserve
Hour hand in counter at 12 o’clock, central minute hand, seconds hand in counter at 6 o’clock, power reserve at 9 o’clock

Case
Stainless steel, Ø40 mm, thickness: 9 mm, 3 pieces, bezel set with 76 Top Wesselton (F-G) diamonds for a total of 0.38 carat, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, case back with screws, Top grade movement visible through the transparent case back, water-resistant up to a pressure of 5 bars (50 m / 165 ft)

Dial
White mother-of-pearl, grey transfers, opaline counters and power reserve
Hands Blue hands, hour and minute hands in lancine shape

Strap
Authentic white alligator leather with tone-on-tone stitching, stainless steel pin buckle

Price
Suggested retail price: CHF 4,000.—

Louis Erard Limited Edition Regulator Watch Designed by Alain Silberstein (The First Collaboration between Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein)

July 19, 2020June 23, 2022 MasterHorologer1 Comment

In October 2019, Swiss watch maker Louis Erard announced the launch of a reinterpretation of the brand’s regulator watch in collaboration with the architect and watchmaker Alain Silberstein, available in two limited editions of 178 watches. This is a double first: in its 90 years of existence, Louis Erard has never given carte blanche to a designer, while Alain Silberstein had never before designed a regulator watch.

The regulator complication goes back through the history of watchmaking. Traditionally, the principle of the regulator is to separate the indications of the hours, minutes and seconds in order to improve chronometric precision.

This is a pillar of Louis Erard’s timepieces, with the regulator at the heart of its collections since the brand’s relaunch in 2003. The regulator remains more than ever at the centre of the brand’s strategy.

Alain Silberstein’s design starts with the central minute hand, reduced to the most basic form of an indicator: an arrow, large and yellow on the black version, and deep blue on the white version. This minute hand points to simple lines like those on the train station clocks that were his inspiration. The rest is designed in the same style of geometric simplicity: rectangle, triangle, and circle.

Reflecting Alain Silberstein’s signature style, the hour hand is a large red triangle, while the seconds are indicated by a serpentine hand. The colours follow a similar logic, reduced to the basic spectrum of blue, red and yellow, inspired by the Bauhaus movement.

The watch houses a ETA Peseux 7001 movement with Louis Erard RE9 complication. Decorated with Côtes de Genève decoration, blue screws and Louis Erard engraving, this top grade movement can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback.

Technical details

Movement
Manual winding regulator with power reserve, ETA Peseux 7001 movement with Louis Erard RE9 complication, 10½’’’, Ø23.30 mm (Ø26.00 mm with module), height: 2.5 mm (4.7 mm with module), 17 jewels, 21,600 VpH (3Hz). Around 42 hours of power reserve. Top grade movement, Côtes de Genève decoration, blue screws and Louis Erard engraving

Functions
HMS + power reserve
Hour hand on counter at 12 o’clock, central minute hand, seconds hand on counter at 6 o’clock, power reserve hand at 9 o’clock

Case
Stainless steel or stainless steel + black PVD, Ø40 mm, 3 parts, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, case back with screws, top grade movement visible through the transparent case back, water-resistant up to a pressure of 5 bars (50 m/165 ft). Specially-decorated case back crystal: Alain Silberstein X Louis Erard 1 of 178.

Dial
Black and white matt or opaline (matt silver)
Hands Signature hands designed by Alain Silberstein
Red lacquered hour hand, yellow or blue lacquered minute hand, blue or yellow lacquered seconds hand, white or grey lacquered power reserve hand

Strap
Black calf leather with signature stitching in red or brown calf leather with signature stitching in blue, pin buckle in stainless steel or stainless steel + black PVD

Edition
Two limited editions of 178 pieces

Petermann Bédat 1967

July 17, 2020 MasterHorologer

Petermann Bédat is an independent luxury Swiss watch brand co-founded by Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat. The brand’s debut watch model is 1967, a hand-wound mechanical watch equipped with the dead beat seconds function.

Graduates of the same watchmaking school in Geneva, both Gaël and Florian had been working with various haute-horlogerie manufactures before they jointly decided to establish their own venture.

They have selected the Swiss town of Renens as their operational base. The reason behind choosing this place was the proximity of the horological workshop of world renowned master watchmaker Dominique Renaud. In November 2017, the duo incorporated the company Petermann Bédat Sàrl.

Also in 2017, with the help of Dominique Renaud, the company created a 3 hand mechanical watch movement featuring the rarely used dead beat second complication. This hand-wound movement is the engine of the Petermann Bédat 1967 watch. In 2018, in collaboration with a specialized partner, they created the brand’s first timepiece.

The final design of the 1967 watch was carried out in collaboration with Barth Nussbaumer of Barth.Studio. Petermann Bédat unveiled the brand’s first in-house creation in 2019.

The first ever timepiece from the Petermann Bédat brand reflects the most classic expression of time but with a twist, a dead beat second.

Christened 1967, this classic three-hands mechanical watch draws our attention to a radical technological shift in the field of timekeeping. It was in 1967 the first working prototype of a quartz movement was created in Switzerland.

Usually, the seconds hand in an analogue quartz watch jumps from one second to another while performing its revolution. However, in most of the mechanical watches, the second hand follows a smooth sweeping motion.

In mechanical watching, the jumping seconds motion strikingly resembling to that of a quartz watch can be orchestrated by incorporating the dead-beat seconds mechanism. Although a historical mechanism with its roots trace back to the 18th-century clock making, the dead beat seconds has been rarely used in traditional watchmaking due to its complexity.

With their in-house developed Calibre 171, Petermann Bédat revisits this iconic complication.

For their dead beat second complication, Gaël and Florian took inspiration from the Gafner system. It is an independent seconds system envisaged by Rober Gafner, an instructor of the Watchmaking School of La Chaux-de-Fonds. The Gafner system demands the most exemplary craftsmanship to adjust while offering great room for creativity.

The anchor of second is the most complex component to manufacture in the system. Carefully adjusted by experienced hands to the hundredth of a millimeter, the complex construction of such mechanisms needs the watchmaker’s exceptional skill.

This complex mechanical movement features a large balance wheel with a diameter of 11.5 millimeters. It beats at 18’000 vibrations per hour and regulated by a swan-neck regulator.

The Gafner system also allowed the watchmakers to use and revive traditional techniques such as the deep matte finish of the dead beat second bridge. Achieved with “poudre du levant” mixed with olive oil, this historical technique was traditionally used on grande sonnerie pocket watches but has since then nearly been forgotten.

Every detail of the movement is made with the same desire for perfection. Breguet’s spiral spring, black polished, polished bevels, everything is finished by hand with the same care.

The watch boasts a balanced design by blending 19th century technical and aesthetic influences, some mid-20th century design codes for the body and a contemporary passion. Made from 18 carat rose gold or white gold, the 39mm diameter case of the watch judiciously follows the classic watch designs of the 1960s.

The eye-catching dial of this fine horology creation was made by Comblémine SA, the dial making company owned by master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen. The semi-open dial highlights the outstanding craftsmanship and also represents the new design language of the brand.

The central plate cut-outs are designed to frame the nicely sized rubies, as they are one of the vital elements of the movement. A significant attraction of the dial design, its seconds track graphic plays with the same ideas of cut lines. These breaks visually emphasize and enhance the idea of jumping from one second to another.

All the hands of the 1967 watch are hand-made. The white gold model features blued hands whereas the rose gold version has rose gold colored hands. The hands are highlighted with ancestral techniques, such as bevelling, black polish and ‘berçage’. The hour and minute hands boast a unique form that seamlessly combines the shapes of the dauphine hand and a 19th-century hand.

Technical details

Case
18 Carat Rose gold or white gold
Diameter: 39mm
Thickness: 10.70mm
Glass: Sapphire crystal, convex and AR coating

Dial
Made by Comblémine SA
Sapphire, sand-blasted, hand-polished bevels
Hour, minute and seconds hands finished by hand

Strap
Hand-sewn suede
18 carat gold buckle

Movement
Caliber 171 in house movement with dead beat mechanism
German silver bridges and main plate
Breguet coil balance spring
Diameter: 30mm
Frequency: 18 000 vph
Number of jewels: 29
Number of parts: 160

Decorations
Cotes de Genève on the bridges with hand polished chamfers
Sun graining and Perlage on the main plate
Steel parts beveled, polished and black polished surface all by hand
Circular graining on the wheels with hand beveled and polished arms
Circular graining on the balance
Sun graining on the barrel ad Perlage inside
Snail graining on the ratchet wheel

Limited editions
10 pieces in rose gold
10 pieces in white gold

Retail price
CHF 59 800 (Ex VAT)

MW&Co. Asset Collection

June 16, 2020 MasterHorologer

MW&Co. is a French watchmaking brand based in Toulouse. The brand launched its flagship collection Asset during Baselworld 2018. It took two years to develop the Asset watch.

The MW&Co. Asset collection offer limited edition automatic flyback chronograph watches inspired by automobile engineering and motorsports.

**MW&Co.Asset 2.1 Automatic Flyback Chronograph**

The major design feature of the Asset collection is the innovative jack lugs system inspired by the dampers used in the sports cars for absorbing shocks.

These big sized and masculine watches feature a complex case construction that requires hand assembly of 105 (77 for case+ 28 for damper system) exclusively tailored components.

**MW&Co.Asset 2.2 Automatic Flyback Chronograph**

Presently MW&Co. offers four different editions of the Asset automatic flyback chronograph. Thw brand’s debut model is Asset 2.1, which was launched in 2018 in a limited edition of 20 pieces.

**MW&Co.Asset 2.3 Automatic Flyback Chronograph**

In 2019, the brand launched Asset 2.2 (limited to 20 pieces), Asset 2.3 (limited to 50 pieces) and Asset Kota (limited edition of 10 pieces). All these models are available to purchase with prices starting from 12,000.00 €.

**MW&Co.Asset Kota Automatic Flyback Chronograph**

These timepieces are equipped with customized version of the Eterna calibre 3916A mechanical self-winding movement featuring small second counter, hours and minutes display, date, chronograph display for seconds, minutes and hours, flyback and second stop.

Manufactured by Eterna Movement SA in Switzerland, the 3916A movement features 35 jewels and beats at 28’800 vph. It provides a power reserve of 60 hours. Equipped with a custom designed rotor, this movement can be admired through the sapphire crystal case back.

The watch case measures 46mm diameter. The watch case and other parts like Asset ring, bezel, rehaut, crown, pushers and case-back are made with micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium with or without black PVD coating.

Model: Asset 2.1 Automatic Flyback Chronograph
Launched in: 2018, Limited edition of 20 pieces

Technical details

Case
77 tailored components, exclusive architecture
Diameter: 46mm
Case material: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium
Asset ring: Satin finished Grade 5 titanium
Bezel: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium, laser engraved
Front glass: Sapphire crystal with blue antireflective treatment on both sides
Back case glass: Sapphire with blue antireflective treatment on back side
Back case: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium, laser engraved and matte black painting filling
Rehaut: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium, black lacquered, white pad printing
Crown: micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium with black DLC coating and green lacquer filling
Pushers: micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium with black DLC coating and green lacquer filling
Lugs: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium machined in the solid material
Bezel and back case screws: micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium with black DLC coating
Strap screws: micro-blasted stainless steel 316L with black DLC coating
Case screws: stainless steel 316L
Threaded tube: stainless steel 316L
Water resistance: 3ATM (30m)

Dial
See-through aluminium with black galvanic coating and white superluminova filled indexes

Hands
Center stopwatch hand: Steel lacquered green
Sweep second hand: Brass lacquered green with superluminova filling
Hour counter hand: Brass lacquered green with superluminova filling
Minute counter hand: Brass rhodiumed and polished with superluminova filling
Hour hand: Brass rhodiumed and polished with superluminova filling
Minute hand: Brass rhodiumed and polished with superluminova filling

Damper system
Damper Lugs: 14 tailored micro components per lug
Body: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium machined in the solid material
Plug: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium machined in the solid material
Piston: Polished Grade 5 titanium
Spring: stainless steel 316L green decoflex lacquer
Sapphire ring: Hand polished machined in the solid material
Plug seal: 3 NBR O’ring seals with ionic treatment
Piston Seal: 1 NBR O’ring seal with ionic treatment; 2 flat NBR tight seals to ensure the sapphire ring’s water resistance; 3 polished stainless steel 316L screws with black DLC coating

Strap
Veal leather strap with a micro-blasted Grade-5 titanium insert
Micro-blasted Grade-5 titanium buckle with laser engraving and black lacquer filling

Movement
Caliber 3916A
Automatic flyback chronograph with two column wheels
Frequency: 28’800 A/h
Power reserve: 60h
MW&Co. in-house rotor

Retail price
12,000.00 € excl VAT

Model: Asset 2.2 Automatic Flyback Chronograph
Year of launch: 2019, Edition: Limited to 20 pieces

Technical details

Case
77 tailored components, exclusive architecture
Case material: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium
Diameter: 46mm
Asset ring: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium with black PVD coating
Bezel: Micro-blasted and polished Grade 5 titanium laser engraved
Back-case: Micro-blasted and polished Grade 5 titanium laser engraved
Rehaut: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium with black PVD coating, orange pad printing
Front glass and case back glass made from Sapphire crystal
Crown and pushers: Micro-blasted and polished Grade 5 titanium
Lugs: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium machined in the solid material with black lacquer filling
Screws: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium
Water resistance: 5ATM (50m)

Dial
Micro-blasted silver nickel brass with black galvanic treatment, indexes and logo in polished and rhodiumed silver nickel brass and white superluminova filled indexes

Damper System
14 tailored micro components per lug
Body: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium machined in the solid material
Plug: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium machined in the solid material
Piston: Mirror polished stainless steel 316L
Spring: Micro-blasted NI SPAN C-902 with black ceramic painting
Sapphire ring: Hand polished sapphire crystal machined in the solid material
Plug seal: 3 NBR O’ring seals with ionic treatment
Piston Seal: 1 NBR O’ring seal with ionic treatment; 2 flat NBR tight seals to ensure the sapphire ring’s water resistance; 3 micro-blasted stainless steel 316L screws

Strap
Handmade, matte black alligator leather, with 2 micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium inserts
Buckle: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium laser engraved

Movement
Caliber 3916A
Automatic flyback chronograph with two column wheels
Frequency: 28’800 A/h
Power reserve: 60h
MW&Co. in-house rotor

Retail price
16,000.00 € excl VAT

Model: Asset 2.3 Automatic Flyback Chronograph
Launched in: 2019, Limited edition of 50 pieces

Technical details

Case
77 tailored components, exclusive architecture
Material: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium with black PVD coating
Diameter: 46mm
Asset ring: Polished Grade 5 titanium with black PVD coating
Bezel: Micro-blasted and polished Grade 5 titanium laser engraved
Front glass and case back glass made from Sapphire crystal
Caseback: Micro-blasted and polished Grade 5 titanium laser engraved
Rehaut: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium with matte orange painting, black pad printing
Crown and pushers: Micro-blasted and polished Grade 5 titanium with black PVD coating
Lugs: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium machined in the solid material with black PVD coating and orange lacquer filling
Screws: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium with black DLC coating
Water resistance: 5ATM (50m)

Dial
Micro-blasted silver nickel brass with black galvanic treatment, indexes and logo in polished and rhodiumed silver nickel brass and white superluminova filled indexes
Damper system
Damper lugs 14 micro components per lug
Body: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium with black PVD coating, machined in the solid material
Plug: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium with black PVD coating, machined in the solid material
Piston: Polished stainless steel 316L with black PVD coating
Spring: Micro-blasted NI SPAN C-902 with orange lacquer
Sapphire ring: Hand polished sapphire crystal machined in the solid material
Plug seal: 3 NBR O’ring seals with ionic treatment
Piston seal: 1 NBR O’ring seal with ionic treatment; 2 flat NBR tight seals to ensure the sapphire ring’s water resistance; 3 micro-blasted stainless steel 316L screws with black PVD coating

Strap
Handmade, matte black alligator leather, with 2 micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium inserts with black DLC coating
Buckle: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium with black PVD coating laser engraved

Movement
Caliber 3916A
Automatic flyback chronograph with two column wheels
Frequency: 28’800 A/h
Power reserve: 60h
MW&Co. in-house rotor

Retail price
19,000.00 € excl VAT

Model: Asset Kota Automatic Flyback Chronograph
Launched in: 2019, Limited edition of 10 pieces

Technical details

Case
Case 77 tailored components, exclusive architecture
Material: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium with PVD under layer and golden coating 5N gold with Zapon protection
Diameter: 46mm
Asset ring: Polished Grade 5 titanium with black DLC coating
Bezel: Micro-blasted and polished Grade 5 titanium with black DLC coating laser engraved with shiny black laquer filling
Sapphire Glass: Front and case-back sapphire crystals with anti reflective treatment on both sides (inside blue anti reflective treatment / outside colorless anti reflective treatment)
Case-back: Micro-blasted and polished Grade 5 titanium laser engraved
Inside bezel: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium with black DLC coating and 5N gold pad printing
Crown and pushers: Micro-blasted and polished Grade 5 titanium with black DLC coating
Lugs: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium machined in the solid material with black DLC coating and 5N gold lacquer filling
Screws: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium with black DLC coating
Water resistance: 5ATM (50m)

Dial
Micro-blasted brass with black galvanic treatment, indexes with black SLN BL enfilling and circle counters in polished brass and gold 5N PVD, 2 added logos in micro-blasted brass with black PVD coating and white SLN BL enfilling

Hands
Second hand, second chrono, hour counter: polished brass machined in the solid material with 5N gold PVD coating and black SLN BL
Hour, minute, minute counter: micro-blasted brass machined in the solid material with black PVD coating and 5N gold SLN BL

Damper system
14 tailored micro components per lug
Body: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium with black DLC coating, machined in the solid material, engraving filled with 5N gold lacquer
Plug: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium with black DLC coating, machined in the solid material
Piston: Polished stainless steel 316L with black DLC coating
Spring: Micro-blasted NI SPAN C-902 with black DLC coating
Sapphire ring: Hand polished sapphire crystal machined in the solid material
Plug seal: 3 NBR O’ring seals with ionic treatment
Piston seal: 1 NBR O’ring seal with ionic treatment; 2 flat NBR tight seals to ensure the sapphire ring’s water resistance; 3 micro-blasted stainless steel 316L screws with black DLC coating

Strap
Handmade, carbon black mississipiensis alligator leather, with 2 micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium inserts with black DLC coating, inside lining soft touch
Buckle: Micro-blasted Grade 5 titanium with black DLC coating laser engraved

Movement
Caliber 3916A
Automatic Flyback chronograph with two column wheels double counter hour/minute
Frequency: 28’800 A/h
Power reserve: 60h
MW&Co. in house decoration and rotor

Retail price
22,000.00 € excl VAT

Ollech & Wajs OW P-101

June 13, 2020May 24, 2022 MasterHorologer

Introduced in 2019, the Ollech & Wajs OW P-101 watch pays homage to the MC Donnell F-101, the very first fighter jet in service capable of exceeding 1,000 mph, setting a world-record in 1956.

Inspired by military style watches, its design is both uncluttered and perfectly functional, paying tribute to the thousands of soldiers and officers who favoured an OW as a reliable tool for survival during their time in Vietnam. Resolutely faithful to the classical principles of the early OW models, it is crafted with well-balanced proportions, pronounced lugs, an extra size crown and semi-domed glass.

The watch houses a robust mechanical self-winding movement, the ETA 2824-2 OW3, carefully regulated by hand and designed to withstand the test of time and passing fads.

Handcrafted and assembled in the Swiss Jura, like all OW watches, the OW P-101 lives up to a tradition of authenticity. Water-resistant to a depth of 300M, it is equipped with a sapphire crystal, and SuperLumiNova® hands and indexes. Guaranteed 3 years against any manufacturing defect. Retail price is CHF 956. The initial 56 pieces are individually numbered.

Technical details

Reference: Ollech & Wajs OW P-101
Year: 2019

Case
Brushed 316L stainless steel, screwed back, screw-down crown, rotating bezel 12H
Sapphire with anti-glare treatment
Dimensions: 39.56 mm X 15 mm
Water resistance: 300M/ 30ATM

Dial
Hands and indexes in Super-LumiNova®

Movement
Automatic ETA 2824-2 OW3P
Hours, minutes, seconds and date

Bracelet
Natural leather and linen, origin Great Britain

Packaging
Leather origin Great Britain, Italian Kraft paper

Warranty
3 years against any manufacturing defect

Ollech & Wajs OW C-1000

June 13, 2020May 24, 2022 MasterHorologer

Introduced by Ollech & Wajs in 2019, the OW C-1000 is a professional grade diving watch with a water resistance up to 1000 meters.

The OW C-1000 watch is powered by the robust modified ETA 2824-2 OW5, which is equipped with an Ollech & Wajs Zurich 1956 engraved main plate and OW machined rotor. The movement is housed in a 39.56mm diameter 316L stainless-steel case, which is stamped, machined, and brushed in Jura, Switzerland.

The Ollech & Wajs OW C-1000 is also equipped with a reinforced back case, an extra strong domed sapphire crystal and a special triple gaskets screw down crown.

The watch has a stainless-steel rotating bezel with a ceramic insert to measure dive times, and SuperLumiNova® covered indexes and hands for extra readability when diving at great depths. The first 56 OW C-1000 watches feature serial numbering on the crown.

Technical details

Reference: Ollech & Wajs OW C-1000
Year: 2019

Case
Brushed 316L stainless steel, reinforced screwed back, special triple gasket screw-down crown, unidirectional 60 min rotating bezel, manufactured in Jura, Switzerland.
Domed sapphire with anti-glare treatment
Dimensions: 39.56 mm X 15.15 mm
Water resistance: 1000m/ 100ATM

Dial
Hands and indexes in Super-LumiNova®

Movement
Automatic ETA 2824-2 OW5P
25 Jewels
28,800 bph
Power reserve: 38 hours
Mainplate engraved Ollech & Wajs Zurich 1956, and OW machined rotor

Bracelet
20mm wide, RAF nylon strap, origin Great Britain

Packaging
Leather origin Great Britain, Italian Kraft paper

Warranty
3 years against any manufacturing defect

Ollech & Wajs OW P-104

June 11, 2020May 24, 2022 MasterHorologer

Introduced in 2019, the OW P-104 model is a successor of Selectron line of aviator watches produced by Ollech & Wajs.

This new timepiece is inspired by the Lockheed F-104 Starfghter. Designed to help both military and commercial pilots in a pre-electronic era, its unobtrusive and sober circular slide rule enables them to measure speed and distances to calculate flight time or fuel consumption.

Based on a cockpit’s control panels for maximum readability it associates oversized indexes with a stylish black and white minute hand. Regulated by hand in our factory, its robust ETA 2824-2 OW3 mechanical movement makes the P-104 an ideal navigation tool for high-flying pilots and mavericks alike. Like all OW watches, it is handcrafted and assembled in the Swiss Jura and lives up to its high standard.

Water-resistant to a depth of 300M, it is equipped with a sapphire crystal and SuperLumiNova® hands and indexes. It is guaranteed 3 years against any manufacturing defect. It is now available to order on OW’s e-shop, at 1056.- CHF. The initial 56 pieces are individually numbered.

Technical details

Reference: Ollech & Wajs OW P-104
Year: 2019

Case
Dimensions: 39.56 mm X 15 mm
Brushed 316L stainless steel, screwed back, screw-down crown, bezel with circular slide rule
Curved sapphire crystal glass with anti-glare treatment
Water resistance: 300M/ 30ATM

Dial
Hands and indexes in Super-LumiNova®

Movement
Automatic ETA 2824-2 OW3P, hours
Minutes seconds date

Bracelet
NATO extra strong nylon and leather, origin: Great Britain

Packaging
Leather origin Great Britain, Italian Kraft paper

Warranty
3 years against any manufacturing defect

Fears Redcliff “Streamline” Limited Edition

May 25, 2020July 24, 2021 MasterHorologer

The limited edition Fears Redcliff “Streamline” watch was launched to mark the 1,000th day since the Fears Watch Company was re-established in 2016.

Introduced in 2019, the Redcliff “Streamline” is inspired by a popular watch from the 1946 Fears centenary range called the “Streamline”. This timepiece features a galvanised dial similar to its name sake with an antique silver colour called ‘Forties Silver’.

The surface of the German made dial is vertically grained with gilt printed numerals and black surrounds, just like the original.

Time is displayed using black ‘Fears’ shaped hands filled with Super-LumiNova for easy reading. The central seconds hand is painted in a special patina red, reminiscent of Fears watches with central seconds hands from the 1940s& 50s, which all featured red seconds hand.

Each Redcliff “Streamline” watch is hand built in the UK using a slim, elegant case that’s made in Switzerland before being finished in the UK. The slim case’s sides are brushed with a polished bezel sitting on top securing a flat sapphire glass featuring anti-reflective.

On the tip of the crown is engraved the Fears “Pipette” logo, taken from the design of the hour markers on the first Redcliff Date that re-launched Fears in 2016.

The Redcliff “Streamline” is limited to 100 pieces. The retail of this Fears watch is £483, the same amount of the originals’ £11.2s.6d – simply adjusted for 73 years of inflation.

Technical details

Model: Fears Redcliff “Streamline”
Model number: BS13810

Case
316 Stainless Steel, 38mm (depth 8.5mm to top of flat sapphire glass)
Made in Switzerland, Finished & Grained in the UK
Sapphire Crystal with anti-reflective coating; Made in Hong Kong
Lug width: 20mm

Movement
Ronda 515 quartz
Made in Switzerland

Dial
Forties Silver
Galvanised with an antique silver colour
Vertical brushed finish with gilt printed numerals and black printing
Made in Germany

Hands
‘Fears’ hands painted black and filled with Super-LumiNova, Central seconds painted red. Made in Switzerland, Seconds hand painted in UK

Functions
Time (central seconds) & Date

Warranty
5 Year guarantee from date of purchase

Strap
Fears Strap in Mink Brown – crafted from goat’s leather
Leather sourced from India, Strap made in Belgium

Assembly
Assembled by hand in the UK

Serial number
Individually numbered, sequentially

Retail price
£483 inc. VAT

To discover more timepieces from this brand, please visit Fears watches page. To learn more about the Fears Watch Company and its history, please click here.

Fears Brunswick Blue

May 22, 2020July 24, 2021 MasterHorologer

Introduced in November 2019, this new timepiece featuring a blue dial is the second Brunswick model in steel from the Fears Watch Company Limited. This new watch joins the popular white dialled Brunswick in its improved second-generation case, retaining the same elegant proportions and curves of the original.

Known as the Brunswick Blue, the new watch’s dial perfectly encapsulates the Fears ethos of “Elegantly Understated”. Each dial goes through 56 different processes, resulting in a subtle yet enchanting new face to the Brunswick.

With three different layers, two colours of printing and two complementary finishes, the real beauty and detail of this dial lies in the second glance.

The Brunswick Blue’s dial’s layout is reminiscent of a 1940s Fears model, with hand-applied alternate Arabic numerals. Each numeral and cabochon is highly polished before being rhodium plated to match the rhodium plated, hand polished skeletonised Fears hands.

A volatile galvanic process, with a high failure rate, is used to create the unique Fears Blue colour. This decadently rich shade of blue combines with the hand-grained surfaces of the dial to catch the light beautifully.

Leijona Heritage 1907 Collection

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Model: Asset 2.1 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Launched in: 2018, Limited edition of 20 pieces

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Model: Asset 2.2 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Year of launch: 2019, Edition: Limited to 20 pieces

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Model: Asset 2.3 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Launched in: 2019, Limited edition of 50 pieces

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Model: Asset Kota Automatic Flyback Chronograph Launched in: 2019, Limited edition of 10 pieces

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Reference: Ollech & Wajs OW P-101 Year: 2019

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Reference: Ollech & Wajs OW C-1000 Year: 2019

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Model: Asset 2.1 Automatic Flyback Chronograph
Launched in: 2018, Limited edition of 20 pieces

Model: Asset 2.2 Automatic Flyback Chronograph
Year of launch: 2019, Edition: Limited to 20 pieces

Model: Asset 2.3 Automatic Flyback Chronograph
Launched in: 2019, Limited edition of 50 pieces

Model: Asset Kota Automatic Flyback Chronograph
Launched in: 2019, Limited edition of 10 pieces

Reference: Ollech & Wajs OW P-101
Year: 2019

Reference: Ollech & Wajs OW C-1000
Year: 2019

Reference: Ollech & Wajs OW P-104
Year: 2019

Model: Fears Redcliff “Streamline”
Model number: BS13810