ochs und junior ochs line mese 1.22

ochs und junior presents the first version of the ochs line date or mese – the ochs line mese 1.22.

The case is titanium, measuring 39 mm in diameter. It has a minimalistic black dial featuring blue green hour hand, yellow minute hand, red second hand and red date dot. The movement is ETA 2824-2 and the module of Ludwig Oechslin consists of 2 single parts.

ochs und junior ochs line mese 1.22

The ochs und junior date watch is entirely manufactured in Switzerland. Each watch is hand- assembled and regulated at the ochs und junior workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The entire watch is covered by a 2-year guarantee.

This new self-winding timepiece is priced at CHF 3’500 — Incl. 7.7% VAT or CHF 3’230 — Export price.

Technical details

Case
2-part case designed by Ludwig Oechslin with visible machining marks
Sapphire crystal by Stettler in Lyss/Switzerland
Crown: Screw-down crown designed by Ludwig Oechslin in grade 5 titanium (Manufacturer: Pibor SA / Glovelier / Switzerland)
Case dimensions: 39mm x 10.4mm
Weight: 54g
Water resistance: 100m

Movement
Base movement: ETA 2824-2 with 38 hours of power reserve. Manufacturer: ETA / Grenchen / Switzerland.

Dial
Black dial and date disk, date dot in red
Markers in yellow
Hour hand in blue green, minute hand in yellow, second hand in red
Markers, hands and date dot enhanced with Swiss Super-LumiNova, applied by Monyco in La Chaux-de-Fonds/Switzerland

Strap
Black Cordura-Strap in S/M/L, handmade by Sabina Brägger
Classic buckle in grade 5 titanium, designed by Ludwig Oechslin. Visible machining marks.

Origin
Swiss made

ochs und junior settimana next

ochs und junior presents settimana next, a brand new weekday watch designed by Ludwig Oechslin.

Dressed in a Grade 5 Titanium case, this automatic timepiece is available in two sizes: Ø 36 mm and Ø 40 mm. It has a minimalistic black dial. A violet dot moves clockwise across the 7 blue “weekday” dots (starting at the 1 o‘clock position and ending at the 7 o‘clock position) highlighting the specific day of the week.

ochs und junior settimana next

The settimana is powered by Sellita’s SW 200-1 automatic movement. This timepiece is produced and assembled by ochs und junior in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

ochs und junior settimana next

The ochs und junior settimana watch highlights the 7 days of the week by way of a rotating dot located between 1 o’clock (Monday) to 7 o’clock (Sunday). At the beginning of the week, the dot moves quickly to cover the 8 to 12 o’clock segment, restarting the new week each Monday morning. The 7-weekday module invented by Dr. Ludwig Oechslin contains a brass dial with functional back, a gear with weekday display (point), a triple function wheel and a transmission wheel.

Technical details

Case
Made from two parts designed by Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, available in grade 5 Titanium
Visible machining and milling traces
Dimensions available in Ø 36 or 40 mm
10.8 mm thickness
Weight 55-57 Gram
Screw-down crown made of titanium, designed Dr. Ludwig Oechslin
Glass: Sapphire crystal by Stettler in Lyss/Switzerland
Water Resistance 50m (5bar)

Movement
Base Movement SW 200-1 by Sellita SA, La Chaux-de-Fonds

Straps
Textile straps handmade by Sabina Brägger
Buckle: 22mm width in titanium designed by Dr. Ludwig Oechslin

Dial
Black dial
Hour, minute and second hands with Swiss Super-LumiNova® in white

Origins
Swiss Made

Warranty
The entire watch is covered by a 2-year guarantee

Retail price/delivery
CHF 2‘500 — incl. 7.7% VAT
CHF 2’300 — Export price.
Delivery of the watch: 8-12 weeks

ochs und junior two time zones + date

This minimalistic mechanical wrist watch created by Ludwig Oechslin boasts a unique hour hand that shows two time zones at once, and a highly readable analog date display.

Traditionally in dual-time-zone watches, a second time zone is displayed on a subdial or via an additional hour hand. Oechslin’s solution shows both time zones on one special hour hand. How it works is simple: if the second time zone is ahead of the wearer’s (for example, +6 hours), this number is set on the timezone disk at 12 o’clock. If the second time zone is behind the wearer’s, this number is subtracted from 12, and the difference is set at 12 o’clock. As the open hour hand passes over the timezone disk, the second time zone is displayed proportionally within its frame. Oechslin’s solution increases the feeling of connection between the time zone of the wearer and the second time zone.

The hands display the first time zone. The number inside the open hour hand indicates the second time zone. The timezone disk in the center is adjusted so that the difference between the two time zones is displayed at 12 o’clock. If the second time zone is ahead (for example, +3 hours), you set this number at 12 o’clock. If the second time zone is behind, you subtract from 12, and set the result at 12 o’clock. Both time zones are designed as 12 hour indications. It is assumed that whether the second time zone is ahead or behind the first is known.

Oechslin’s two time zones + date watch uses the same analog date display as his radical 12-part perpetual calendar. Oechslin’s solution makes the date readable from farther away than even a large digital date display, and it leaves the time as the initial information visible upon a quick glance. Its 30+1 date perforations are arranged in a gentle spiral, and after a short time on the wrist, the wearer can read the date intuitively.

The small circle beneath 12 o’clock is the power reserve indicator. Full power (60 hours) is when the dot is beneath the rightmost 12 o’clock marker. Empty is when the dot is beneath the leftmost 12 o’clock marker. The disk rotates counterclockwise.

The exact minute can be read using the date holes, which are spaced at 2 minute intervals. Holes mark even minutes and gaps odd minutes. Just above the 6 o’clock marker is a seconds disk with a milled excentric dot. This disk shows the watch is running.

The base movement is the Ulysse Nardin UN-118. The parts like Direction gear, Gear wheel, Timezones disk, Date disk, Module board, Dial, Hour hand , Minute hand, Seconds disk and Power reserve indicator were designed by Ludwig Oechslin specifically for two time zones + date. They are manufactured in Switzerland by Helfenstein Mechanik AG and, like all ochs und junior parts, are backed by a lifetime warranty.

Oechslin’s two time zones + date watch contains a mechanism that allows two of the watch’s functions to be set in the same crown position. You can set the timezone by turning the crown counterclockwise in position 1, and the date by turning the crown clockwise in position 1. The direction gear which enables this is fairly common in watchmaking. Ingenious, however, is the way it’s used in this situation, and how the two functions interact with each other. The timezone disk is controlled by the date disk. Changing the direction of rotation while setting the watch causes the direction gear to slip out of its coupling, and cancels the connection between the timezone disk and date disk.

Force is therefore only applied to the timezone disk during adjustment. While the watch is running, no additional gears interact with the timezone disk, thereby assuring optimal power transition from the base movement. The titanium spring holding the timezone disk in position is integrated directly into the module board, which greatly simplifies assembly of the function. Oechslin’s two time zones + date watch thus contains a mechanism that combines and connects functions, yet also separates them.

To assure high legibility in the dark, the watch features Super-LumiNova X1. This coating is manufactured by RC TRITEC in Teufen / Switzerland. In the dark, Super-LumiNova shines green (the option used by ochs und junior) or blue, on special request. The Super-LumiNova coating is applied by hand by ochs und junior, or for dials with a color application by Cador in Eimeldingen / Germany and by Monyco in La Chaux-de-Fonds / Switzerland.

This watch is entirely manufactured in Switzerland. The case is manufactured by Peter Cantieni in Hinwil, while the gear system, dial, hands, buckle and crown are manufactured by Helfenstein in Alpnach. The Ulysse Nardin UN-118 base movement is manufactured in Le Locle. Each watch is hand-assembled and regulated at the ochs und junior workshop in Lucerne. A lifetime warranty covers all parts invented by Ludwig Oechslin, and the entire watch is covered by a 2-year guarantee.

Technical details

Case
2-part case designed by Ludwig Oechslin. Available in grade 5 titanium or sterling silver 925; additional materials upon request. Visible machining marks. ochs und junior watches require no movement ring due to the extremely small manufacturing tolerances on the case. Available exclusively with a solid case back. Manufacturer: Peter Cantieni / Hinwil / Switzerland.
Dimensions: 42mm x 12.5mm (incl. crystal)
Water resistance: 100m in titanium, 100m in sterling silver 925. Both models are fit for almost any situation in daily life.

Crown
Screw-down crown designed by Ludwig Oechslin in grade 5 titanium or sterling silver 925. Manufacturers: Pibor SA / Glovelier / Switzerland and Helfenstein Mechanik AG / Alpnach / Switzerland.

Sapphire crystal
The sapphire crystals are manufactured by Stettler in Lyss / Switzerland. Both sides are treated with anti-reflective coating by Econorm in St-Imier / Switzerland.

Base movement
Ulysse Nardin UN-118 with 60 hours power reserve. Hand-regulated by ochs und junior to 0/+5 seconds per day. Manufacturer: Ulysse Nardin SA / Le Locle / Switzerland.

Watch straps
Over 80 possibilities in sturgeon, textile, leather, suede or rubber

Buckle
Designed by Ludwig Oechslin for 22mm watch straps with no loops. Visible machining marks. Grade 5 titanium or sterling silver 925, additional materials upon request. Manufacturer: Helfenstein Mechanik AG / Alpnach / Switzerland.

ochs und junior 36mm annual calendar

The Lucerne watch company ochs und junior presents the 36mm annual calendar in grade 5 titanium and German silver. ochs und junior manufactures watches designed by the watchmaker and scientist Dr. Ludwig Oechslin. All of its dial components have been manufactured in German silver, and the case is made out of grade 5 titanium. The watch comes with a textile strap with a Kevlar core, which features a grade 5 titanium “loop” buckle.

All of the customization options that are available for the 39mm and 42mm editions are also available for 36mm. The lugs are exactly the same width apart as on the 39mm and 42mm editions (22mm), so the 36mm size can use all of the same straps as other ochs und junior watches.

The water resistance is the same as for the 39mm and 42mm editions (100m). Like the cases for the 39mm and 42mm editions, the lugs do not extend beyond the radius of the bezel, which makes for a comfortable and “true to size” fit. The weight of the 36mm edition is 53g including strap and buckle in titanium/ 93g including strap and buckle in sterling silver. The watch houses ETA 2824-2 movement.

ochs und junior

Founded in 2006 Lucerne, ochs und junior is a highly individual and different “art” brand from Ludwig Oechslin, probably the most interesting and widest thinking watchmaker of our time. Presently the watch brand is co-owned by Ludwig/Kornelia Oechslin and Beat Weinmann. Also, Swiss watch manufacture Ulysse Nardin is a minority share holder of the company.

Born 10 February 1952 in Gabice Mare, Italy, Dr. Ludwig Oechslin is a scientist, philosopher, artist and watchmaker. He was involved on dismantling, restoring and reassembling the famous Farnese astronomical clock in the Vatican. Also, he designed some of the most exciting and innovative wristwatches such as the Freak, Moonstruck, Trilogy of Time, Perpetual GMT, and Sonata for luxury Swiss watch manufacture Ulysse Nardin.

 Ludwig Oechslin

Not long ago he began turning his not inconsiderable attention to developing a collection of wristwatches capable of reflecting his very particular approach to the art and science of horology: ochs und junior. ochs und junior represents a platform for Dr. Oechslin’s innovative, laterally thought horological time sculptures.

Every ochs und junior timepiece incorporates instances of inventive, fresh thinking. Generally speaking, there is a tendency to complexity in the world of watchmaking – which is fine in the few instances where it is warranted. Dr.Oechslin has adopted a philosophy that is at variance with mainstream thinking: his approach is one of simplification, of paring down a complex scenario to arrive its technical essence.

Take, for example, the design for a straightforward, traditional mechanical annual calendar – one that automatically recognises the different lengths of the months and needs the owner’s intervention only at the end of the month of February as it passes into March: such a mechanism usually requires in the region of 40 individual components. The ochs und junior anno cinquanta manages this with just three.

The ochs und junior anno cinquanta Pink Gold

Dr. Oechslin’s three components indicate the date, month and weekday by means of three orange-coloured dots travelling around three circles of apertures perforated in the dial – an entirely novel approach to calendar indication. It quickly becomes second nature to interpret the positions of the dots. As for the movement powering the anno cinquanta, this is a wholly new self-winding calibre designed and built by the great watchmaker, Paul Gerber, a friend and colleague of Ludwig Oechslin. It offers a power reserve in excess of 100 hours.

Dr. Oechslin’s definitive ochs und junior timepieces are much like his prototypes in appearance: he likes the cases to retain visible signs of the workmanship that has gone into making them. The cases of precious metals are milled by Peter Cantieni, the engineer behind the intricate titanium parts used in BMW-Sauber Formula 1 cars. The anno cinquanta comes in red gold, white gold and – a rare thing this in watchmaking – silver (rare because silver is soft and marks relatively easily – but this is precisely what ochs und junior is about: Ludwig Oechslin passionately wants his timepieces to play a part in witnessing their owners’ lived experiences).The dial of the anno cinquanta is fashioned from heat-patinated white gold, a process that produces slightly different results each time. Every dial is a one-off!

Most ochs und junior watches are presented on ecologically tanned leather straps and come in handmade leather wallets. ochs und junior also produces a child-oriented watch: the settimana junior is accompanied by a comic featuring Ludwig Oechslin as the main character. Its watertight Peter Cantieni-machined titanium case is presented on a natural rubber strap.

ochs und junior settimana junior

Its dial features a seven-day calendar which, it too, is based on the orange dot principle explained earlier.

Update 03 Apr 2020

ochs und junior has moved its headquarters from Lucerne, the geographic centre of Switzerland, to La Chaux-de-Fonds, the centre of watchmaking. The move coincides with the appointment of Marc Bernhardt as the new CEO.

New Address

ochs und junior AG
Villa Grieshaber
Rue Numa-Droz 143
2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds

 

ochs und junior Perpetual Calendar Watch

Designed by Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, the new ochs und junior perpetual calendar is an easy to handle, innovative contemporary complication timepiece designed for everyday use.

A traditional perpetual calendar houses a highly complicated mechanism to display the basic time, calendar functions and leap year indication. The large number of displays makes the dial more complicated and some times less legible. Also it needs large number of components to construct the mechanical movement of a perpetual calendar watch.

Dr. Ludwig Oechslin has more than 4 decades of experience in the watchmaking industry. Successfully fusing the innovative techniques and traditional watch making, he has created one of the most simplified perpetual calendar watches of modern era.

He used only 9 additional parts to create the perpetual calendar function for this new timepiece. Less number of components and controls makes this watch more easy to use and high reliable. Traditional perpetual calendars need more laborious effort to set its functions. Most require a complex system of pushers, and the date cannot be adjusted backwards. Oechslin’s perpetual calendar can be set simply using the crown, and the date is adjustable both forwards and backwards.

Dial of Oechslin’s perpetual calendar watch features two central hands and 31 holes around the perimeter of the dial. It also features an inner disc with four holes and two small discs at 6’o clock and 12’o clock respectively.

Oechslin’s perpetual calendar indicates following functions:-

  • Date: The 30+1 holes around the perimeter of the dial display the date.
  • Month: The 4 perforations in the month disk indicate the month. When the outermost perforation points to 1 o’clock, it is January. When the outermost perforation points to 2 o’clock, it is February. The month disk rotates clockwise.
  • Leap year: The 4 perforations in the month disk also show whether it is a leap year or a common year. When the outermost dot is orange, it is a leap year (366 days). When it is dark, it is a common year (365 days). The leap year disk rotates clockwise beneath the month disk.
  • Power reserve: The small circle beneath 12 o’clock is the power reserve indicator. Full power (60 hours) is when the dot is beneath the rightmost 12 o’clock marker. Empty is when the dot is beneath the leftmost 12 o’clock marker. The disk rotates counter clockwise.
  • Hour and minute: The exact minute can be read using the date holes, which are spaced at 2 minute intervals. Holes mark even minutes and gaps odd minutes.
  • Second: Just above the 6 o’clock marker is a seconds disk with a milled excentric dot. This disk shows the watch is running.

The grade 5 titanium case of the watch is manufactured by Peter Cantieni in Hinwil, Switzerland, while the gear system, dial, hands, buckle and crown are manufactured by Helfenstein in Alpnach, Switzerland. Each perpetual calendar is hand-assembled and hand-regulated by Sandra Flück at the ochs und junior workshop in Lucerne.

The Perpetual calendar model designed by Ludwig Oechslin comes in a 42mm case with a patina dial, platinum PT950 hands, rhodium markers, and orange dots. Production will be limited to 20 perpetual calendar watches this year. The export price (excluding 8% Swiss VAT) is CHF 20’240.

Technical details
Model: Perpetual calendar
42mm grade 5 titanium case with screw-down crown
Dial, date disk, month disk, leap year wheel, seconds disk, power reserve indicator in gray patina
Markers in rhodium
Hour and minute hands in brushed platinum PT950
Date and leap year dots in orange
Waterproof sturgeon leather strap handmade in Switzerland
Ludwig’s special buckle in Grade 5 titanium

ochs und junior moon phase blue patina

Switzerland based watch brand ochs und junior presents moon phase blue patina, a new pure metal execution of Ludwig Oechslin’s moon phase watch. Its blue, blue-black and gray hues are not the result of added color. They come from a controlled chemical process for oxidizing brass, which ochs und junior developed specifically for its watch parts.

Patination is a technique for dial contrast used by Ludwig Oechslin since the first ochs und junior prototypes in 2006 (the story of patination at ochs und junior). Each moon phase (blue patina) watch is hand-patinated, hand-assembled, and hand-regulated by ochs und junior watchmaker Sandra Flück at the ochs und junior workshop in Lucerne (the ochs und junior workshop). ochs und junior plans to manufacture about 5 moon phase blue patina watches in 2016 out of a total of about 50 moon phase watches.

The 39mm case, crown and buckle are machined in Switzerland out of solid blocks of sterling silver 925, a soft metal selected by Oechslin for the way it patinates through wear and records marks of life from its owner (the use of silver at ochs und junior). Visible machining marks proudly showcase the precision of the workmanship, the qualities of the raw material and the way each part was manufactured. For brilliant reflection of light from every viewing angle, the full moon, sun at 12 o’clock, and date dot are executed in hammered platinum PT 950, while “the dark side of the moon” is in hammered, dark patinated sterling silver 925. The hour hand, minute hand and excentric second dot are machined out of solid blocks of platinum PT950 to match the astronomical and date indications.

Ludwig Oechslin’s unique moon phase function is executed as a 5 part epicyclic gear system that will take 3,478.27 years before its calculation will be off by 1 day (full technical information and a picture of the 5 parts). The analogue date display (30+1 holes around the moon phase function) is more readable than a digital display from the same distance, and unlike large digital displays, the date dot is not a distraction when checking the time (interactive watch and how to read the functions).

ochs und junior watches are exclusively sold directly from the ochs und junior workshop in Lucerne, Switzerland. Clients can browse the watches in Lucerne and have their order shipped worldwide via FedEx, or they can configure their personal ochs und junior with an interactive customizer tool. Online or in person, cofounder and CEO Beat Weinmann provides guidance as to the customer’s perfect ochs und junior. moon phase blue patina costs CHF 12’100 including 8% Swiss VAT  (watch details in the online store).

Technical details
Model: moon phase blue patina
39mm sterling silver 925 case
Dial, moon disk and date disk in hand-patinated brass
Sun at 12 o’clock in hammered platinum PT950
Full moon in hammered platinum PT950
New moon in hammered and patinated sterling silver 925
Date dot in hammered platinum PT950
Indices milled out and patinated
Hour hand, minute hand, excentric second dot in brushed platinum PT950
Waterproof sturgeon leather strap handmade in Switzerland

ochs und junior – Annual Calendar Brass

Swiss luxury watch brand ochs und junior has announced the new reference execution of the world’s most minimalist annual calendar watch: Ludwig Oechslin’s annual calendar brass.

The high-contrast dial of annual calendar brass is executed in one material – brass – with no added colour. Just two metals are visible on the watch: titanium (case, crown, buckle) and brass.Inside is the world’s most minimalist annual calendar function – just 3 specially manufactured moving parts designed by Ludwig Oechslin enable an annual calendar which requires adjustment only once per year. A typical annual calendar function uses up to 40 parts.

Dial-contrast is achieved through hand-patination of the milled indices, month, date, and weekday dots with an antique art sculpture restoration solution. The same process is applied to the hour and minute hands. A tiny excentric dot is milled into the hand-patinated second disk to show the watch is running and preserve the harmonious balance of the dial.

Ludwig Oechslin developed this single metal dial solution so that he could control the entire process of making ochs und junior prototypes in his workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Every ochs und junior annual calendar brass is a unique piece due to natural differences in the hand-patination process.

The rigorous simplicity of Ludwig Oechslin’s annual calendar goes much further than a simple solution for dial contrast though.

Ludwig Oechslin’s annual calendar watch jettisons text and numbers to give a more intuitive sense for the calendar year than an alphanumeric display, the same way an hour and minute hand give a more intuitive sense for the time than a digital display. The date, month and weekday are soon recognized simply by their analog position on the dial.

Ludwig Oechslin’s goal is to execute the most functional representation of time horizons in the most technically elegant manner possible. The ochs und junior annual calendar’s dial with no text or numbers is specifically designed to ensure the first thing the wearer sees when glancing at his watch is the time, and that ancillary indications remain perfectly legible.

Ludwig Oechslin’s unique rotating dots also provide an intuitive feel for the amount of time in a week, month, and year. Awareness of each time horizon is increased when they are observed in analogue rotation upon the wrist.

Annual calendar brass features the world’s most minimalist annual calendar function  –  just 3 specially-manufactured moving parts designed by Ludwig Oechslin enable a calendar function which requires adjustment only once per year, when other watchmakers use up to 40 parts.

Ludwig Oechslin accomplishes the ochs und junior annual calendar’s extreme reduction in parts by using custom-designed gears and lateral thinking instead of the conventional watchmaking solution of levers and springs.

The three specially-designed moving parts, pictured on the right, include the specially designed 5-tooth cogwheel, the month disk, and the weekday disk.

The only additional parts necessary for the function are the date disk (similar to the date disk on the ochs und junior date), a finger bonded to the hour wheel for power (similar to the one on the moon phase), and the functional dial.

Ludwig Oechslin is able to conceive novel solutions like these because of his wide-ranging background, which includes a doctorate in theoretical physics and experience restoring the Farnese astronomical clock in the Vatican. His experience has taught him that gears are a more technically elegant and reliable way to execute.

Ludwig Oechslin’s technically elegant designs allow ochs und junior watches to be custom-manufactured with high reliability in extremely small production quantities (a maximum of 300 watches are manufactured per year).

The custom-made gears of the annual calendar function, as well as the functional dial, case, crown, and buckle are manufactured outside the watch industry by Peter Cantieni, who machines ultra-precise parts for the Swiss Formula One team Sauber.

ochs und junior’s cases have visible machining marks that show the precision of Peter Cantieni’s workmanship. The resulting look is perhaps similar to the use of visible concrete in architecture. A lifetime warranty is offered on all ochs und junior parts including the annual calendar function, case, dial, crown, and buckle.

Technical details
3 moving part annual calendar innovation by Ludwig Oechslin
ETA 2824-2 base movement
39mm or 42mm
Titanium case, crown and buckle (also available in silver)
All dial components executed in hand-patinated or brushed brass
Custom color options also available
Price: 8000 CHF in titanium, 10,000 CHF in silver (incl. 8% Swiss VAT)

ochs und junior new moon phase patina

Ludwig Oechslin’s new moon phase patina features a high-contrast dial executed entirely in one material: brass. Just two metals are visible on the watch — brass (all dial components including hands) and titanium (case, crown, buckle).

Ludwig Oechslin developed the single-metal solution for moon phase patina’s dial so that he could control the entire process of making ochs und junior prototypes in his workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The brass dial is hand-patinated through an antique sculpture restoration process, turning it a dark grey color. Then the indices, date dot, and moon are milled-out to reveal the metal beneath. The hand-satinated brass hour and minute hands are rendered instantly visible by handpatinating the brass second hand.

Each ochs und junior moon phase patina is a unique piece due to natural differences in the hand-patination and satination processes. A single-metal solution for dial contrast is just the beginning of the rigorous simplicity of Ludwig Oechslin’s modern moon phase watch.

The ochs und junior moon phase has the world’s most accurate moon phase calculation in a wristwatch, even though it uses just 5 parts. In 3,478.27 years, the prediction of its moon phase calculation will deviate from the actual path of the moon by a single day. A conventional moon phase calculation deviates by one day after about 2 years. More precise wristwatch moon phase indications deviate by one day after 122, 500 or 1007 years.

Ludwig Oechslin accomplishes the ochs und junior moon phase’s extreme increase in accuracy and extreme reduction in parts by using rigorous mathematics and epicyclic gearing instead of the conventional watchmaking solution of levers and springs. He is able to conceive novel solutions like these because of his wideranging background, which includes a doctorate in theoretical physics and experience restoring the Farnese astronomical clock in the Vatican. His experience has taught him that gears are a far more reliable way to execute functions.

Ludwig Oechslin designed the ochs und junior moon phase for maximum legibility and functionality. The dial layout reveals the relative positions of the sun, moon and earth. The non-alphanumeric date spiral allows the date to be read intuitively and the time to be read without distraction. The date perforations are exactly two minutes apart on the dial for added readability of the exact minute and second. The dial has no logo; none is needed. Ludwig Oechslin creates clear design idioms which are instantly recognizable.

Ludwig Oechslin’s technically elegant designs allow ochs und junior watches to be custom-manufactured with high reliability in extremely small production quantities (ochs und junior produces no more than 300 watches per year). The epicyclic gears of the moon phase function, case, dial, crown and buckle are manufactured outside the watch industry by Peter Cantieni , whose primary job is machining ultra-precise parts for the Swiss Formula One team Sauber. ochs und junior’s cases have visible machining marks that show the precision of Peter Cantieni’s workmanship. A lifetime warranty is offered on all ochs und junior components.

Technical details
• Model: selene
• 39mm or 42mm
• Titanium case, crown and buckle (also available in silver)
• 5 part moon phase function by Ludwig Oechslin
• All dial components executed in hand-patinated or satinated brass
• Custom color options also available online
• Base movement: ETA 2824-2
Price: 8000 CHF in titanium, 10,000 CHF in silver (incl. 8% Swiss VAT)

ochs und junior Anno Annual Calendar by Ludwig Oechslin

Featuring a highly innovative date indication and pared down to the essentials, Ludwig Oechslin‘s ingeniously simple annual calendar is now offered by Lucerne watch brand ochs und junior – and the watch can be personalized via the internet.

Ludwig Oechslin has spent three years fine-tuning his wristwatch calendar function and paring it down to its bare essentials. Based on just three moving parts plus the functional dial, he has succeeded in creating an annual calendar function that would otherwise require anything up to 40 components. Oechslin‘s anno is an elegant, easy-to-read solution that presents information in the right order: first the time, then the date, followed by the weekday and month as ancillary indications.

The 31 date perforations, arranged as a gentle spiral, are ingeniously aligned with the indices for easy readability. The date is recognized purely by position. Increasing subtly in length as the spiral progresses, the 10-minute indices mark the 5th, 10th, 15th, 20th, 25th and 30th of the month. The 31st and 1st are in line with each other.

The date perforations are each exactly two minutes apart on the dial for added readability of the exact minute and second. The month indication consists of a dot moving anticlockwise around a circle of twelve perforations. The weekday indication consists of another dot moving anticlockwise around a circle of seven perforations.

Between 6 in the morning and 6 in the evening, the indication consists of a single dot. Between 6 in the evening and 6 in the morning, the indication consists of two dots, i.e. the next day is shown as approaching as the current day is drawing to a close. This day/night display helps the user set the calendar correctly. The user can decide which day of the week should be represented by the uppermost perforation.

Retail price of the ochs und junior anno:-
Titanium CHF 8000 (incl. 8% VAT)
Silver CHF 10,000 (incl. 8% VAT)

The ochs und junior online design tool uniquely offers customers the chance to visualize and personalize their watch. The all-new website allows users to experiment with and specify the special function of the watch, the case size and various colors – for the dial, hands/ indices, date dots and strap. Customers can choose any color from existing standardized color charts.

Alongside the anno annual calendar watch, Ludwig Oechslin has developed three other innovations: the selene is his moon phase watch with an incontestable mathematical accuracy of one day in 3478.27 years. The due ore is his fabulously simple dual time zone watch. The mese is his watch featuring a date function. For each of the models, the customer can choose the color of the dial, the hands and indices, the date dots and the strap. The cases are available in 42 or 39 mm and in titanium or silver. The custom-built watch takes between 10 and 12 weeks to produce.

ochs und junior also offer a selection of readymade watches in various color combinations; these can be ordered online or by visiting the oxloft centre of operations in Lucerne. These watches are available off-the-shelf.

The distinctive design of the watch follows the function and is rigorously free of any visible logo. That said, one does exist – it‘s literally branded with a hot iron on the underside of the eco-tanned strap. The two-part case and the clasp are left unpolished to show the accuracy of the workmanship.

Like exposed concrete in architecture, ochs und junior likes to show what it‘s made of. All ochs und junior specific components – that‘s almost everything apart from the movements – are custom made by master metalworker Peter Cantieni in Hinwil, Switzerland. He crafts high-tech titanium components for the Swiss Sauber Formula One team and prides himself on his ultra high quality output.