In 2007, Switzerland based master watchmaker Andreas Strehler presented an emotional, sensual mechanical watch movement – the Papillon.
His aim was to create a living organism that would hold the observer spellbound. In contrast to many firms, Andreas Strehler regards his movements not as cold, technical machines but as living organisms whose elegance invite one to sense the time and the mechanics that generate it.
He deals with the aesthetics of time without the necessary domination of ease of reading the dial. Sometimes he even runs counter to it. For example, it is possible to regard the cosmos of a Papillon as a mere mechanical marvel, the only function of which is to fascinate the beholder by the sight of the functioning movement.
To produce this fascination, Andreas Strehler developed a technical language of his own in the form of the Papillon. He drew his inspiration from the elegance of the technical progress of the late 19th century. In particular, it is the floral elements of the Art Nouveau, which perform basic functions in spite of their fragility that are to be found in the construction of the Papillon.
Inspired by the art of traditional Swiss watch making, Andreas Strehler created his very own formal expression which makes the construction of his watch movements unique. First he broke with the classical link between the main plate and the bridge, the dial and the movement side, since this would have had a restricting effect on his ideas.
His idea was to have a visible gear train allowing one to look deeply into the movement and see it working. The supporting elements were to be kept to a minimum, but they should have an aesthetic form to captivate the observer.
Andreas Strehler needed no more than three wheels to create his idea of a living watch-organism. The time is almost hidden above the two barrels, ‚mystérieuse‘ on two toothed glass discs, without the driving mechanism being visible.
The Papillon was constructed with the aim of producing a harmonious movement with original ideas which can show the time, but need not do so necessarily. The most important aspect was to be the harmony of the mechanics, the elegance and aesthetic of form and the interaction of the wheels which beat the time. And although the movement is composed of metal, it should appear as something from nature.
To achieve this, Andreas Strehler chose a totally new configuration for the construction of the movement, abandoning the traditional difference between the face and the back of the watch. By this apparent break with tradition, Andreas Strehler introduced new ideas without dispensing with the traditional craftsmen‘s methods of decoration which underline optically the quality of his work.
The bevelling in the internal edges was carried to the limit in the Papillon. Hardly any other watchmaker had dared to bevell such sharp edges by hand.
The movement is constructed in a different way to that of any other watch. Whilst Andreas Strehler is careful to construct his movement along classic lines, it must not be similar to movements of the past. That may sound like a contradiction in terms. But at a second glance, his movement appears as his own individual, modern interpretation of the traditional watchmakers‘ craft.
For example, he manages without the classical main plate of a central plate with its various cut-outs. It was important for him to create an aesthetic movement. The elegance of the central plate is enhanced by Côtes de Genève and appears as a mainspring bridge, rather than the central element. And in order to stress the optical impression of an organically formed movement, Andreas Strehler opted for a central bridge in the shape of a butterfly.
The construction of the movement, its shape, follows the technical necessities. In this way the position of the two barrels and the balance wheel form a basic slanted oval shape which corresponds with the shape of the watch-case. The Papillon movement is a technical masterpiece. Its mechanics are reduced to the absolute minimum.
For the Papillon, Andreas Strehler uses only three wheels for the transmission of power – the central wheel, intermediate wheel and escapement wheel. The shape of the central wheel and the intermediate wheel dominates the appearance of the Papillon. And this impression is increased by the smooth roundings of the bevelled wheels.
Although the Papillon movement appears very simple, it manifests a number of nice details which will please the hearts of everyone interested in mechanics. The two barrels provide the Papillon with a guaranteed power reserve of 80 hours, although the energy stored in both barrels would enable a much longer power reserve. They are connected in parallel and thus guarantee smooth winding and the even action of the two mainsprings.
Besides the generous power reserve, the use of two barrels brings further advantages, for example the almost total elimination of bearing pressure on the central wheel – thus enabling optimal timekeeping precision.
A further special detail is the use of genuine conical gear wheels for the winding wheel and the winding pinion. As a result, these show no wear in the transmission of power and are therefore extremely long-lasting. In addition, their special gear tooth system enables the watch to be wound up smoothly and lightly.
Technical details
Papillon Classic
Case: Palladium white gold 88g
Dimension: Width 41 mm, overall length 47.20 mm, height 10 mm
Dial: 2 toothed sapphire wheels, for hours and minutes
Strap: Black alligator with tang buckle in white gold
Movement: Mechanical, manual winding; mysterious hours and minutes displayed by the gears themselves; Power reserve: 78 hours, double mainspring; Size: tonneau shape: 32.00 x 30.00 mm, thickness 6.9 mm; Frequency: 2.5Hz / 18,000 A/h; Jewels: 19
Combining traditional horology and contemporary design trends, the Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Off-centered hour and minute model features a unique dial layout with an offset hour and minute display, with additional sub-dials for the small second, date and power reserve indications.
This uncommon dial aesthetics is further enhanced by the use of traditional elements: “chemin de fer” style minuterie, Roman numerals and blued steel “leaf shaped” hands that run round the “grand feu” enamel dial which completely hand made by expert craftsmen.
Available in red gold or white gold case version, the Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Off-centered Hour and Minute watch is equipped with a Girard-Perregaux Manufacture automatic winding movement that can admired through the sapphire case-back.
The harmoniously curved gold case, which measures thirty-six by thirty-seven millimetres, stands out on the wrist. An alligator strap secures the timepiece to wrist.
Technical details
Model: Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Off-centered Hour and Minute
Case
White/Pink gold case
Dimensions: 36 x 37 mm
Sapphire crystal
Sapphire case-back secured by 4 screws
Water resistance: 30 metres
Dial
Ivory enamel dial
Movement
Girard-Perregaux movement GP01900′ Mechanical with automatic winding; Calibre: 11 ½ ’‘’; Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz); Jewels: 29; Power reserve: minimum 46 hours
Functions
Hour, minute, small second, power reserve indicator, date
The Regulateur Classica Secunda Wristwatch by German clock manufacturer Erwin Sattler was created in cooperation with Habring Uhrentechnik OG.
This automatic wristwatch features an engraved gold rotor, a regulator display, and a jumping second hand that springs forward with the tact of the second itself. This Sattler wristwatch was created on the occasion of the fiftieth anniversary of the company’s founding and has since become a popular and successful model.
The Regulateur Classica Secunda features an exact miniature version of the very successful wall clock Classica Secunda 1985’s regulator dial, but with all the characteristics of a fine mechanical wristwatch: As on the original, this wristwatch’s dial is made of solid sterling silver (925/000) and sports four screws.
The wristwatch Regulateur Classica Secunda exact miniature versions of the very successful wall clock Classica Secunda 1985. Its regulator dial aside, it contains all the characteristics of a fine mechanical wristwatch: Like the original, this wristwatch’s dial is made of solid sterling silver (925/000) and sports four screws.
The regulator dial with its subsidiary seconds at 12 o’clock, hours at 6 o’clock, and large central minute hand is just as naturally a part of the Erwin Sattler collection as are the invar compensation pendulum and gold-plated gears of a precision pendulum clock. This exceptional hand placement is modeled after the especially precise pendulum clocks found at observatories.
When making time comparisons, it was found that the very wide hour hands on the observatory’s clocks hid the second hand, the vital link in precision regulation work. Taking this into consideration, clock designers therefore created regulator dials with one main dial for the minute hand, kept very slender, and two subsidiary dials for hours and seconds — all of which were completely legible at all times.
Erwin Sattler’s clock specialists give not only the dial special attention, but also the domed steel hands of this wristwatch Regulateur. The hands are first hardened and polished. Finally, they are slowly heated to 295° C, at which point the hardened steel achieves its coveted deep blue hue. The hour and minute hands have steel hand sockets with polished grooves — just as the clocks do.
The Regulateur Classica Secunda was created in cooperation with the company Habring Watch Technology. Only the wheels, escapement parts, and some plates from the seasoned ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph caliber are in use here.
All other parts needed for the movement, including the jumping seconds subgroup, are completely new designs. The oscillating pinion, an arbor with two differently toothed gears whose purpose is actually to ensure the energy flow between movement and chronograph, was cleverly employed to power an additional mechanism. This mechanism utilizes several wheels and pinions and a stop spring, causing the second hand to jump.
The automatic movement was then modified, assembled it and housed it in a stainless steel case consisting of both polished and matte components. Sturdy strap lugs with screw-in bars lend an aura of solidity and robustness that is underscored by the large crown. The meticulously finished automatic rotor, hand-skeletonized and engraved with the company initials by master engraver Jochen Benzinger, makes each watch unique.
Technical details
Case
Stainless steel case
Ø 44 mm, height: 15 mm
Domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal, sapphire crystal in case back
Water-resistance tested up to 5 bar
Crown in the shape of a precision clock movement holder nut, decorated with milled Sattler logo
Bezel shape corresponding to the Sattler precision clock bezel
Display
Hours, minutes, subsidiary jump seconds
Movement
Sattler-calibre ES 01, Self-winding, based on ETA 7750
28 jewels
Power reserve: 42 hours
Oscillator engraved by hand and skeletonized decorated with guilloche work,
Option: customized oscillating weight with own initials
Introduced in 2008, the manually wound LANGE 31 by A. Lange & Söhne boasts a power reserve of one month (31 days). This timepiece also features another innovation, a constant-force escapement, assures that power delivery is uniform throughout the entire 31-day period. Additionally, with this timepiece Lange reintroduced the venerable key winding mechanism. The A. Lange & Söhne LANGE 31 watch is available in Platinum and 18K rose gold versions.
The construction of a mechanical wristwatch with a power reserve of a whole calendar month, not to mention constant rate accuracy across the entire period, was one of the few as yet unmastered horological feats. Now, it is reality: the LANGE 31. A programmatic designation for a power pack with the so far unimaginable power reserve of 31 days – plus continuous rate stability.
A. Lange & Söhne LANGE 31 Platinum (reference 130.025F)
To store this amount of energy, the mechanical movement of A. Lange & Söhne LANGE 31 watch features two stacked mainspring barrels with an inside diameter of 25 millimetres. The prominent twin barrels occupy three quarters of the movement’s footprint. Each measuring 1,850 millimetres in length, the two mainsprings are five to ten times longer than those found in conventional wristwatch movements. It would be quite a cumbersome task to wind strong springs like these with the delicate components of an ordinary winding crown train.
That is why Lange’s engineers turned to the “key technology” of historic pocket watches. The leverage delivered by a key makes it possible to choose a transmission ratio that would be inconceivable with a crown.
A square key, inserted through an aperture in the sapphire-crystal caseback, delivers the energy to the spring barrels. The key features a built-in backstop ratchet to allow smooth winding as with a regular crown, and a torque limiter prevents accidental overtightening of the springs.
It stands to reason that a movement with such an extraordinary power reserve cannot constantly run at a stable rate without special technical precautions. The laws of physics dictate that in the process of relaxing, a spring loses more and more of its initial torque and thus cannot deliver the same amount of energy between the points where it is fully wound and fully unwound. As its torque wanes, the amplitude of the balance declines and so does the rate accuracy of the movement. To outwit this law, Leonardo da Vinci invented the fusée principle 500 years ago.
It allows the spring’s loss of torque to be largely offset by leverage. In the form of a fusée-and-chain transmission, this principle has been embodied in two of Lange’s new-era watches: the TOURBILLON “Pour le Mérite“ and the TOURBOGRAPH “Pour le Mérite“.
But to handle a power reserve of 31 days, this construction would have been made impossible by the sheer size of its parts. So Lange’s engineers sought – and found – a different solution: the constant-force escapement. It is based on an auxiliary spring that is periodically rewound by the mainspring and always builds up the same torque, regardless of the state of wind of the mainspring.
As it relaxes, this pretensioned so-called remontoir spring on the fourth-wheel arbor always delivers the same amount of energy to the escape wheel. Every ten seconds, this spring, attached to a stud, is retensioned by 60 degrees at its outer end. To complete the mechanism, it is also necessary to integrate a device that dependably and accurately controls this motion sequence.
This task is handled by the balance. It not only assures the uniform rotation of the fourth-wheel arbor that indicates the correct time but also controls the cyclical winding of the constant-force escapement. This is done with a Reuleaux polygon, a cam shaped like an equilateral triangle with convex sides. It is attached to the fourth-wheel arbor.
Every ten seconds, in other words after every 60-degree rotation, it moves an ingeniously designed pivoting lever. Two pallets on the inside of the lever alternately engage with a one-toothed wheel that is connected to the spring barrel via a wheel train and briefly stops its motion after every 180-degree rotation.
Each time it turns, the remontoir spring is incrementally rewound within fractions of a second and during the following ten seconds, it delivers its energy to the escape wheel. Within these ten seconds, the torque curve fluctuates marginally, but on average, a constant amount of energy is delivered for the full 31-day period.
The motion sequence of the constant-force escapement, which indeed resembles a classic escapement, can be observed through the sapphire-crystal caseback. A transparent sapphire jewel reveals the fascinating interaction of the three-point cam with the pivoting lever.
On the bottom line, the constant-force escapement prevents the waning torque provided by the mainspring barrel from diminishing the rate accuracy of the watch. The result: uniform energy delivery, constant amplitude, same rate accuracy from the first to the thirty-first day on which a shutoff mechanism halts the movement.
Theoretically, the movement could continue to run. But then, the force generated by the mainspring would drop below the torque needed to wind the remontoir spring. The constant-force escapement would no longer function reliably.
The constant-force issue already preoccupied Ferdinand Adolph Lange. Around 1866, he invented a constant-force escapement with jumping seconds – a so-called “one second remontoir” – for his precision pocket watches.
He later developed a similar construction for the large house clock at the Lange headquarters which today, with its almost 10-metre long pendulum, still tells Lange staff members and citizens of Glashütte precisely what time it is. Some 140 years later, his horological descendants demonstrated the success of their quest for constancy by introducing the newly developed calibre L034.1 movement with 31 days power reserve.
LANGE 31 is an exceptional timekeeping instrument for daily use, and its convenience is readily apparent. It displays the precise time longer than any other manually wound watch, even if it is not worn for several days or a few weeks.
The A. Lange & Söhne LANGE 31 platinum version (reference 130.025F) featuring a solid silver, rhodié dial and rhodiumed gold hands. The 18K LANGE 31 pink gold variant (reference 130.032F) comes with a solid silver, argenté dial and pink gold hands.
A. Lange & Söhne LANGE 31 Pink Gold (reference 130.032F)
The case has an impressive diameter of 46 millimetres and an overall height of 15.9 millimetres. And the circular 31-day power-reserve indicator that occupies nearly the entire right-hand half of the solid-silver dial requires space as well. The last segment, in red, reminds the owner that after a full month has elapsed, it is finally time to rewind the watch. The Lange outsize date on the left side harmoniously balances the face.
Needless to say, the LANGE 31 also showcases all of the quality features that make timepieces by A. Lange & Söhne so coveted around the world. A glance through the sapphire-crystal back reveals the screw balance, the whiplash precision index adjuster on the hand-engraved balance cock, screwed gold chatons, and lavishly decorated elements in the classic Lange style.
Technical details
Model: A. Lange & Söhne LANGE 31
Movement
Lange manufacture calibre L034.1, manually wound, crafted to the highest Lange quality standards and largely assembled and decorated by hand; precision adjusted in five positions; twin mainspring barrels; plates and bridges made of untreated German silver; balance cock engraved by hand
Movement parts: 406
Jewels: 61, including 1 transparent sapphire jewel
Screwed gold chatons: 3
Escapement: Lever escapement
Balance: Shock-resistant glucydur screw balance, Nivarox hairspring balance with a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour, whiplash precision index adjuster with patented beat adjustment mechanism
Power reserve: 31 days (744 hours) when fully wound, with stopwork
Functions
Time display in hours, minutes, small seconds, with stop seconds, outsize date, power-reserve indicator
Operating elements
Winding key with torque limiter, crown for setting the time, push piece for advancing the date display
Case
Diameter 46 mm
Material: Platinum or 18K pink gold
Glass and caseback: Sapphire crystal (hardness 9)
Dial
Solid silver, rhodié or argenté
Hands: Rhodiumed gold or pink gold
Strap
Hand-stitched crocodile strap with precious-metal Lange prong buckle
This automatic chronograph from Edox features a shaped case composed of 6 independent but interconnected elements. Elegant and luxurious, the Classe Royal Chronograph is equipped with the Edox 011 calibre on a Valjoux 7750 base.
Adorned with Côtes de Genève decoration, this 25-jewel, 28,800 vph movement has a power reserve up to 42 hours. Fitted with convex sapphire crystal front glass and Screw-down transparent case back, the watch has a water resistance up to 50 meters.
Technical details
Model: EDOX Classe Royal Chronograph
Movement
Automatic, Edox 011 calibre on a Valjoux 7750 base, 28,800 vib/h, 25 jewels,
42-hour power reserve, Côtes de Genève decoration
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date and chronograph
Case
Two-tone in polished and black PVD treated 316L stainless steel, 40 x 40 mm
Anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal
Screw-down transparent back
Water-resistant to 50 m
Dial
Two-tone silvered and black, with hands partially coated with Superluminova
Hour, minute and seconds counters at 6, 12 and 9 o’clock respectively
Day and date window at 3 o’clock
Strap
Rubber with circular-grained steel folding clasp and flap
At Basel world 2008, Independent watch maker & AHCI member Aaron Becsei launched PRIMUS, the first BEXEItourbillon wrist watch with an extremely complicated and unique movement.
The first sketches of Primus were made on the 1st quarter of 2006. The aim was to create a tri-axial tourbillon table clock with not using ball bearings at all. Also Aaaron wanted to create a unique wrist watch under his name. In 2006 he started to make the design and put together the plans to create this exceptional wristwatch.
Bexei Primus Tourbillon Watch by Aaron Becsei/ Image Credit: Bexei Watches
Aaron spent almost half a year with the development only. He had to take into consideration the fact that this should be a size of a wrist watch and should work not on the papers only.
The most challenging was to have this complex system operable at this miniature size. It took more than 1 year to get the system alive. After this all the parts had to be finished at the highest level. Aaron personally made all the parts from the case to the last screw. Except that the glass and the engraving were made by some of his friends/colleagues.
The tri axial solution is the best in order to avoid the bad effects of the gravity to the balance wheel. In a watch with a simple tourbillion system you leave the watch for 8-12 hours by night at the same position then when you wear it takes several different positions. That is why the adjustment is very problematic. With this triple axis system the balance wheel takes 3750 different positions in every 12.5 minutes day and night.
Technical details
Model: Bexei Primus Tourbillon Watch
Case
18K white gold case
Case width: 38mm
Case height (diameter): 46mm
Case depth: 17,9mm
Movement
Mechanical movement
Wind up indicator
Hour/minute/second indication
Tri-axial tourbillon with jewel bearings
Weight of the tourbillon system: 1,5 gr.
1st (inner) tourbillon cage turns around in: 0,5 min.
2nd (middle) tourbillon cage turns around in: 2,5 min.
3rd (outer) tourbillon cage turns around in: 12,5 min.
The balance wheel takes 3750 different positions in 12,5 min.
Power reserve: 40 hours
Bremont, successfully launched in 2007, offers a range of exceptional quality, highly-developed timepieces designed to exacting specifications with high aesthetic values. Bremont watches, although made using only fine-quality Swiss components hand-assembled by the best watchmakers working from a dedicated atelier in Biel-Bienne, contain an air of quintessential Britishness, derived from the brands founders, brothers and aviators Nick and Giles English. Following on from the ALT1 and BC ranges introduced in 2007, and the success of the BC-S1 and the BC-S2 series, now comes the new EP120, named after and inspired by a very special aircraft that first flew in 1942.
The limited edition EP120 watch is named after (and contains parts of) a famous 1942 Spitfire Mk V aircraft, which is possibly the most credited WWII fighter in existence and is now based in Duxford in Cambridgeshire. It shot down 6 German aircrafts on one day during 1942 in WWII, and the aircraft has been used in films such as The Battle of Britain, and starred as the lead Spitfire in Pearl Harbour and Dark Blue World. Some of EP120’s original parts, saved during restoration, are integrated into Bremont’s EP120 range in beautiful ways, including the dial and movement.
With a limited number of 120 to be made and each one unique, there has been much interest in the beautifully hand finished time pieces. The EP120 features a black DLC treated steel and titanium case and COSC certified skeletised movement. It has a modified 13 ¼” BE-53AE Automatic Chronometer with 24 hour UTC function and 30 minute Chrono ‘Time of Trip’ dial, which is an original Spitfire part.
Your EP120 shows you the time in hours, minutes, seconds and the date. It also shows the time in another time zone using its 24-hour hand (or UTC hand).With the chronograph you can measure up to 30 minutes (in minutes and seconds) through the ‘Time of Trip’ dial positioned at 12 o’clock.
The mechanical movement with automatic winding has a free-swinging rotor that keeps the mainspring wound via the motion of your wrist. The movement in your EP120 has 25 jewels, runs at 28,800 bph and has a 42-hour power reserve once fully wound. The watch is water resistant to 100m (10 ATM) and the dial is protected by a dual anti-reflective sapphire crystal that is retained securely (in the case of low pressure found at extreme altitudes).
The case of your watch is made from an especially hardened stainless steel with a DLC (diamond like carbon) coating. To ensure that this rather special watch continues to run beautifully for years to come, you must follow a few important operating instructions.
EP120’s HISTORY
EP120 was built at Castle Bromwich, and entered RAF service in May 1942 with 501 (County of Gloucester) Squadron at Ibsely in Hampshire. Whilst in the hands of the Ibsley Wing Leader, Wing Commander ‘Pat’ Gibbs, she claimed her first kill; a Do17. There are Spitfires in existence with a wartime combat record, however Spitfire Mk Vb EP120, at seven ‘kills’ represents a proven fighter with something quite special. EP120 is currently one of only four airworthy Mk V Spitfires in the world.
EP120 sustained some damage on 16th July 1942 after a ground collision as was very nearly written off. After repairs, the aircraft returned to 501 Sqn in time to provide air cover for the withdrawal of forces involved in Operation ‘Jubilee’, the disastrous Dieppe raid, flying three sorties to protect the shipping convoy taking troops and equipment off the beach at Dieppe. The third sortie was flown by Wing Commander Gibbs, which saw a number of encounters with FW190’s before three Dornier Do-217’s were sighted south of the convoy. Gibbs was able to bring EP120 onto the tail of one of the Dornier’s and open fire with the cannon and machine guns before himself being attacked by an FW190.
Gibbs shook the FW190, dived to sea level and met the rest of Yellow Section before heading home and being credited with the kill. The aircraft was damaged again later in July 1942, but after repair she was allocated to 19 Sqn at RAF Perranporth, part of 10 Group in Cornwall. At this time, the RAF’s Spitfire Mk Vb fleet was being upgraded in an effort to combat the new Focke Wulf FW190, which was superior to the RAF’s Spitfire V. EP120 was modified having her wings clipped and the Supercharger impeller blades cropped to improve the performance of the engine. EP120 flew a total of 61 combat sorties with 19 Sqn over a seven month period, most of these being channel shipping protection patrols.
22nd April 1943 with the Canadian 402 (City of Winnipeg) Sqn, and it was here that EP120 was re-coded AE-A. As EP120 arrived, so did a new squadron commander, Malta veteran Squadron Leader Geoffrey Wilson Northcott DSO, DFC and he adopted EP120 as his own personal aircraft. Northcott scored his first victory after five days as 402 Squadron’s commanding officer. Flying EP120, Northcott made his first kill against a Bf109 which was defending a German convoy from attack by Beaufighters off the Dutch coast.
After minor modifications at 3501 Servicing Unit at Cranfield between 1st and 6th July, the Squadron returned to Digby. The 2nd of August proved to be another eventful day both for EP120, and Northcott, when 402 Sqn was tasked with providing cover for another Beaufighter strike against German convoy’s operating around Den Helder. After refuelling at Coltishall, the squadron flew across at low level under thick cloud, arriving at around 11:00hrs to take up station. Six Bf109’s were spotted to the North East; 402 Sqn and sister unit 412 Sqn, turned to engage. Northcott flying EP120 was able to bring down two Bf109’s in this action using 30 rounds of cannon ammunition and 300 machine gun rounds.
This action earned Squadron Leader Northcott a bar to his DFC. Apart from providing cover for RAF Beaufighters, the squadron also flew escort missions for USAAF B26 Marauders. On 22nd August 1943 402 Sqn was ordered to provide top cover for an attack on Beaumont Le Roget, in which the bomber formation came under attack by 15 plus FW190’s. In the following encounter, Northcott latched onto the leader and shot him down with a short burst of combined cannon and machine gun fire. On another B26 escort mission over Lille on 4th September, a mixed force of Bf109’s and FW190’s rose to attack the bombers, although largely driven off by 402 Sqn, though some were able to attack the bombers.
The formation was attacked again over Le Touquet by FW190’s, but they were once again engaged by the escorting Spitfires with Northcott flying EP120 attacking another FW190 tearing off it’s port wing in the process, one of four FW190’s shot down with another claimed as damaged. The last two victories claimed by Northcott in EP120 were another Bf109 on the 3rd October 1943, and the last on the 3rd November while escorting 72 B26’s on a raid over Schiphol with 412 Sqn. The wing sighted a formation of Bf109’s en route to the target and engaged, the wing brought down a total of nine enemy aircraft with Northcott claiming one destroyed.
On the 12 February1944 EP120 suffered another accident and was transferred to 33 MU, after which she was allocated to 53 Operational Training Unit at Kirton-in-Lindsey, until May 1945. Her flying service ended on 2nd June 1945 when she was transferred to No 4 School of Technical Training at RAF St Athan as 5377M to assist in the education of RAF mechanics. EP120 has been used in several feature films since its ‘retirement’, including ‘The Battle of Britain’ and ‘Pearl Harbour’. The aircraft is now owned and operated by the Fighter Collection based at Duxford, Cambridgeshire and can be seen flying regularly throughout the year.
More stature, more straight lines and more contrast – this Arena watch accentuates the masculine side of its nature. It goes on the offensive to revive the look of the characteristic Gérald Genta tourbillon and retrograde hours movement.
A bold brand, an ever-astonishing watch. With its 45 mm diameter (as compared to 41 mm previously) the Arena line’s case with its grooved caseband is one of the largest on the market. It is even more amazing in this extremely luxurious version featuring a platinum structure and a palladium bezel– a precious pairing that subtly makes use of the nuance between the grey and white reflections. Palladium in its pure state gleams with a luminous clarity that Gérald Genta has enjoyed using since being the first to choose this metal to adorn its watch exteriors.
On the multi-layer dial, the retrograde numbers are displayed in polished, rhodium-plated appliques on a circular, brushed, tantalum-coloured arc, while the minutes follow a circle punctuated by transferred white hour-markers. Both the hours and the minutes are ticked off by masculine-looking dagger-shaped skeleton hands. The background features a skilfully openworked satin-brushed grey metal grid which makes a striking contrast with the “old gold” colour of the seconds hand, the decorative screw heads and the Potter-finish movement.
The tourbillon appearing through a generous opening at 6 o’clock is topped with an elongated bridge that has been specifically redesigned along more sporty lines. Overall, the skeleton-type dial built on several levels reflects the high degree of sophistication of the mechanism driving the watch.
The movement, which is developed and built within the Manufacture and comprises some 400 parts, embodies tried and tested expertise. Gérald Genta was indeed among the first brands to make a self-winding tourbillon in 1990. This model is remarkable due to its thinness (5.9 mm), its considerable power reserve (64 hours) and the perfectly integrated retrograde hours.
It boasts all the finishing touches characteristic of Haute Horlogerie, such as circular graining, bevelling, polishing, circular brushing, straightening and hand-drawn sides. At the end of the production process, it is immersed in a galvanic bath that gives it the “old gold” colour, inspired by vintage movements. The famous “Potter finish” developed by Gérald Genta exalts the beauty of the fine workmanship that may be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback.
In 2008, Girard-Perregaux dedicated a special edition watch to celebrate the two hundredth anniversary of the Italian stock market: the ww.tc Financial Borsa Italiana.
The watches in the Girard-Perregaux ww.tc (World Wide Time Control) line are characterised by a single system providing the simultaneous reading of local time and the time in 24 time zones. The ww.tc Financial is the first watch to indicate simultaneously the world time and the opening hours of the world’s major stock markets.
Italy’s only stock exchange known as Borsa Italiana was founded in 1808. Based in Milan, the Italian Bourse celebrated its 200th anniversary.
Made of stainless steel and equipped with the GP033C0 automatic movement, the Girard-Perregaux ww.tc Financial Borsa Italiana is a limited edition of 40 pieces. This watch is also available in a pink gold version, limited to 10 pieces.
Technical details
Movement
GP033C0, automatic
Calibre: 13 ’’’
Frequency: 28,800 Vib/h (4 Hz)
Jewels: 63
Power reserve: min. 46 hours
Functions
Hour, minute, small second, world time with day/night indicator, chronograph, date, global stock market trading times
Model: Girard-Perregaux ww.tc Financial Borsa Italiana Steel
Reference 49805-11-683SBA6A
Case material: Steel
Diameter: 43.00 mm
Height: 13.40 mm
Case-back: Sapphire crystal, secured by 6 screws
Water resistance: 3 ATM (100 feet)
Limited edition of 40 pieces
Model: Girard-Perregaux ww.tc Financial Borsa Italiana Pink Gold
Reference 49805-52-682SBACA
Case material: 18K Pink gold
Diameter: 43.00 mm
Height: 13.40 mm
Case-back: Sapphire crystal, secured by 6 screws
Water resistance: 3 ATM (100 feet)
Limited edition of 10 pieces
Idalgo XT1 is the lightweight version of the Idalgo XT2, the third model created for the HD3 Complication brand and personally designed by Jorg Hysek.
Following the XT2, the Idalgo XT1 is proposed as a most exceptional timepiece in response to the desires of fine watchmaking connoisseurs. Idalgo, the third piece created under the HD3 Complication brand, is the piece designed by Jorg Hysek himself.
This exceptional watch marks the completion of the first Haute Horologie Triolgy as originally envisaged by the three founding designers of HD3 Complication. With the introduction of the brand’s own movement, completed after more than 2000 hours of work by skilled and totally committed craftsmen, Idalgo symbolises the beginning of a new era.
Technical details
Movement
Automatic XT1 Calibre, developed by HD3, with a jumping hour aperture,180 degree retrograde 60 minute hand, 360 degree second hand and date display, special design date display at 9 o’clock
Frequency: 28800A/h
Power reserve: 42hours
Number of jewels: 21 rubies
Special rotor
Case
Material: In Rose Gold, Titanium with Rose gold, Titanium with white gold
Side plate in titanium fastened by 2 special HD3 screws
Length: 39mm width: 37mm
Water resistance to 50m
Ergonomic profile which adapts to different wrists
Engraved with limited edition number
Dial
Translucent sapphire dial with applied chapters in gold
Hands in gold, finished by hand
Strap
Hand sewn fine leather strap
Clasp with lateral adjustment
In 2007, based on his experience of more than 30 years as an independent master watch maker, Antoine Preziuso created B-Side, a new interpretation of time telling highlighting the hidden side of time.
B-Side, another in-house patented system, from Antoine Preziuso a deployant and reversible watch inspired after the old vinyl discs. B-Side by Antoine Preziuso is the watch that you can totally deploy, transform, and reverse while it is on your wrist so you can enjoy the pleasure of wearing your B-Side, the movement side of you tourbillon or automatic timepiece.
Too often hidden, the movement becomes the main player in this staging. And when the owner could not resist a peek at the indication of time passing, pressing simple on secret pusher, offers an astonishing transformation. The watch opens, unfolds and turns without leaving the wrist. The traditional face with hands is revealed. B-side offers a fascinating journey throughout space and time. This avant-garde concept allowed by not less than 16000 hours of research and development is manufactured in titanium.
Antoine Preziuso uses movement fully decorated and engraved by hand, in a limited series. Each movement will be a unique interpretation. B-Side is casing either a tourbillon movement, or an automatic Haut de Gamme Swiss movement, entirely hand decorated holding a manufactured custom rotor. The face side shows a very contemporary dial decorated with the famous «Côtes de Genève», as well as big numbers that will light up in the dark thanks to their SuperLuminova.
Technical details
Case: Titanium deployant and reversible case. Patent pending.
Movement: Tourbillon AP T21 caliber or Automatic high quality 2892 totally hand-engraved and black gold coated.
Strap: Full grain alligator.
Having first each designed their own models (Capture by Valerie, Raptor by Fabrice and Idalgo by Jorg), the Hd3 complication team members have joined forces to imagine and invent “Three Minds”. Brainchild of these founts of creative and artistic talent, this ultimate creation symbolizes the designers’ shared passion for the superlative.
The three minds movement is unique to hd3 complication. It adds a new dimension to time, reflecting an original, innovative watch making culture. Its automatic movement, a fine watch making work of art, is central to the aesthetic design of this new age timepiece.
Its innovative display uses three rotating discs (hours-minutes-seconds). Hd3 complication has developed a special rotor for the three minds model, showing the automatic movement in a very different light.
The bodywork of the three minds was designed with the same concern for technical and aesthetic perfection as for its fine watch making “motor” thus matching the avant-garde outlook which is very essence of creativity at hd3 complication. The folding clasp was also specially developed by hd3 complication.
Limited editions
33 pieces rose gold, brown PVD
33 pieces, titanium and white gold, blue luminova numbers
33 pieces, titanium PVD and white gold, luminova numbers
33 pieces, rose gold, black PVD, luminova numbers
This stunning Gerald Genta timepiece pays a glowing tribute to Paris and its famous Place de l’Etoile surrounding the Arc de Triomphe, from which twelve prestigious avenues radiate in a rigorously symmetrical pattern. Among them is the Champs Elysées, which one can easily imagine at the centre of this perspective symbolised by Gérald Genta. Octo Place de l’Etoile is a brilliantly daring jewellery watch blending shapes, colours and materials in the brand’s distinctively avant-garde spirit. The avenues fan out in a vanishing perspective towards the jumping hour aperture, deliberately placed at 11 o’clock in this model. They alternate between diamond-set (totalling 199 gems in all) and enamel-coated motifs that extend over onto the bezel. The construction evokes the historical cobbled streets of Paris. The unexpected use of the colour mauve imbues this creation with a strange sense of solemnity. The design offers an unusual twist on the celebrated self-winding movement in the Gérald Genta collection. In addition to the jumping hour display set at an unprecedented angle, the retrograde minutes are inscribed over a 180° arc on the bezel. A clever way of endowing the design with exceptional amplitude. Octo Place de l’Etoile combines jewellery and watchmaking innovations within a generously sized octagonal case (measuring 39 mm in diameter) crafted in red gold. Meanwhile, the bracelet lends an original touch not only because of its mauve colour matching the dial, but also through the texture of Aqualino, a watersnake leather graced with scales reminiscent of paving stones.
Some may nonetheless prefer the all black-and-white version – white gold case, white diamond and black enamel motif, black crocodile leather strap – which was the first to honour Paris. That was back in 2007 when Gérald Genta inaugurated its flagship boutique in the French capital’s Rue de la Paix.
The Mickey character created by Walt Disney in 1928 has been accompanying Gérald Genta in its flights of fancy since the 1980s. Having first appeared on various purely playful quartz watches, before moving upscale within the prestigious world of mechanical horology, he now celebrates his 80th birthday by reaching the very pinnacle of the watchmaking art.
At Gérald Genta, which enjoys adopting a provocative approach to watchmaking, fantasy deserves to take pride of place and the brand is now granting its pal Mickey a prime spot at the centre of one of the most precious creations ever produced in his honour. Thus enthroned on the tourbillon, he enjoys a perfect view of the retrograde hour display.
For the past couple of decades, Gérald Genta has been one of the rare watch manufacturers to have its own tourbillon. It was also one of the first to produce a self-winding model in 1990.
In the Octo Ultimate Fantasy, the tourbillon was suspended from a sapphire bridge that is hidden from sight so as to create the illusion of a flying tourbillon. This arrangement renders it even more exquisitely beautiful while not increasing its vulnerability, and its longevity is ensured by an anti-UV coating. The slender movement (a mere 5.90 mm thin) is endowed with a 64-hour power reserve and the brand signature retrograde hour display is perfectly integrated.
This tourbillon movement, entirely made within the Manufacture Gérald Genta, is graced with an array of high-end hand-crafted finishes: bevelling, circular graining, polishing, truing and drawing. The parts are treated to an exquisitely soft patinated or vintage gold colour, a gorgeous and exclusive Gérald Genta touch referred to as a “Potter” finish in tribute to the traditional watchmaking values that Gérald Genta consistently upholds. The solid gold oscillating weight is distinguished by its original raised “Mickey’s head” motif.
While it makes a nod to the octagonal case that first welcomed Mickey, the Ultimate Fantasy complication model radiates a strikingly modern aura within the current Octo collection. The skilfully structured platinum case is topped by a tantalum bezel and opts for a combination of materials such as Gérald Genta often favours, complete with a red creased crocodile leather strap.
The white gold split-level dial features a red, black and white decor and an ultimate subtle touch in the shape of a retrograde hour display designed to ensure it never spoils the view of the tourbillon. The boldly precious Octo Ultimate Fantasy unites two legends – Mickey Mouse and the tourbillon – in an exceptional limited edition of 25 watches.
Technical details
Reference OTF.Y.76.340.CR.BD
Movement
Calibre number GG9051 GG9051
Power-Reserve: 64 hours
Mechanism: Tourbillon +Retrograde hours
Introduced: 2008
Rotor: 22K gold Mickey face
Height: 5.90 mm
Diameter: 29.00 mm
Vibrations: 21’600 vph
Balance: 2-arms with screws
Balance-spring: Flat
Escapement: In line lever Tourbillon
Jewelling: 54 jewels
Special finishing on movement: Circular-graining and specialcolour
Case, dial and strap
Case: Platinum 950 (polished)
Diameter: 42,50 mm
Thickness:11,95 mm
Distance between lugs: 31,00 mm
Dial material: White gold.
Bezel: Tantalus (satin-brushed)
Bracelet: Folded alligator
Water-resistance: 10 atm
Beautiful, strong and very safe is a short description of the extraordinary diver watch LAGUNARE LCC 3000. Thanks to its elaborately designed case, it is water-resistant up to 1000 metres. The high class, refined, COSC-certified movement is protected by a coat of soft iron, giving the watch enormous resistance against magnetic fields – much stronger than official standards for antimagnetic watches require. The extra strong sapphire glass is domed.
The handling of the LCC 3000 when diving is also very dependable and safe thanks to its functionality: the unidirectional, rotating lockable diver’s bezel is marked with clear relief numbers and the deepgrooves provide a good grip. The mechanism at 2 o’clock allows the diver to block or release the rotating bezel. The main crown at 3 o’clock is protected by a hinge- operated flap.
Located in the side of the case at 9 o’clock is the automatic helium valve, while the manual helium valve is operated by the crown at 4 o’clock. Limited edition of 300.
Technical details Model: LAGUNARE Certified Chronometer 3000, Reference 3875
• Stainless steel case, 46 mm diameter, anti-magnetic
• Eta movement 2824, COSC-certified
• Water-resistant up to 1,000 m
• Double case back, casing ring and dial made of soft iron
• Lockable rotating bezel, crown protection and helium valve
• With a rubber strap
• Limited edition of 300
• Recommended price: around CHF 3300
The Arena Spice White watch glorifies immaculate whiteness and the geometrical purity of circles, it beats to the tune of material mixes, particularly the rubber and diamond association that Gérald Genta introduced to the world of Haute Horlogerie 15 years ago – and it is flavoured by a parade of colourful touches.
Here comes the brand-new Arena Spice inspired by the fashion designers of André Courrèges and Paco Rabanne, and by the emblematic design of the 1970s. The extravagant style of the era is now wonderfully revived in the bold, bright world of Gérald Genta.
First launched in 2007 with modern women in mind, the Arena Spice watch epitomises luxury in an elegantly relaxed manner. The generously sized (41 mm-diameter) case is topped by a half-precious, half-casual bezel adorned with diamonds nestling within a rubber ring. The same natural material makes the strap delightfully supple, switching this year from black to white for this mischievously youthful creation.
The subtle dial features thus appear in an astonishing new light. Black provides a discreet backdrop to underscore the outline of the white numerals shining in the darkness. The white mother-of-pearl centre enlivened by luminescent dots exalts its exquisite femininity. Meanwhile, the colours changing from hour to hour on a chromatic circle inspired by the work of Swiss painter Johannes Itten appear to literally leap out of the dial.
The play of lights and colours highlights the jumping hour and retrograde minute displays, a trademark feature of Gérald Genta complication models. The colourful hours turn steadily and show up in threes, indicated by open-worked dots.
While the exact time appears in the spotlight, the other two are veiled by frosted sapphire windows. The minutes are displayed across a semi-circle by means of a hand with holes to match the dots on the dial, setting the final touch of perfection to the exquisitely harmonious overall effect.
The Arena White Spice is a feminine watch bearing the inimitable Gérald Genta signature. Like all the other creations by the brand, it is a complication watch with a daring charm that enhances its distinctive appeal.
Presented at Basel world 2009 watch and jewellery fair, the Master Elements limited edition automatic chronograph was manufactured by watch brand YEMA, which is now owned by Montres Ambre group of France. YEMA celebrated its 60th anniversary in 2008 and this special edition timepiece marks this historical milestone.
Equipped with the legendary ETA 7750 automatic movement and dressed in a Stainless steel 316L case measuring 46mm diameter, this chronograph is water-resistant to 300 meters. Its features a carbon fibre dial with Luminous hands and indexes.
Other notable features include: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal front glass, screwed crowns and pushers with double-gaskets; Steel tachymeter scale with black plating and steel rotating (bi-directional) bezel with black plating.
The watch is worn on a Calfskin and carbon look leather strap with deployment buckle. Bearing 25 jewels and equipped with stop-second device, the ETA 7750 automatic movement drives hours, minutes, small second, day and date display and chronograph functions.
The Master Elements automatic chronograph is available in limited and numbered editions of 60 pieces to mark the 60th anniversary of Yema watch brand. The watch features a screwed down caseback with blued sapphire crystal glass for admiring the views of mechanical chronograph movement beating inside.
Specially designed for racing car enthusiasts, this highly exclusive timepiece by Swiss watch brand FORMEX features emblematic design and incorporates cutting-edge technology. Powered with the ETA 7754 movement, this automatic chronograph watch features a massive case crafted from 316L steel, black PVD titanium and 18K pink gold.
Measuring 49mm diameter and equipped with patented active suspension system, the watch has a water resistance up to 100 meters.
It features sapphire crystal front glass with double anti-reflective coating and screw-down transparent back. For optimal reading, the notched case can be inclined on a 90° axis between 10.30 and 1.30 using a lever at 4 o’clock.
The novel crown-guard prevents any inadvertent altering of the time. The open- worked dial offers a magnificent view of the Grand Prix movement. The watch is available in a limited edition of 199 pieces.
Technical details
Movement
Automatic chronograph, ETA Cal. 7754, 13¼’’, 28,800 vib/h, 25 rubies, 46-hour power reserve
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph, second time zone, tachometer scale
Case
316L steel, black PVD titanium and 18K pink gold, 49mm
Inclined and mobile on a 90° axis between 10.30 and 1.30
Patented active suspension system
Sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating and screw-down transparent back
Water-resistant to 100 m
Dial
Open-worked, multi-coloured
Luminescent hour-markers and hands
Bracelet/Strap
Rubber, leather or black PVD-treated steel
For the first time in its history, Gérald Genta is whirling women into the spinning “tourbillon” dance of time. The legendary mechanism performs its fascinating revolution at the heart of a dazzling “milky way”, representing the ultimate in elegance and refinement.
The Arena watch with retrograde hours and tourbillon by Gérald Genta is transformed into a feminine icon interpreted with exquisite delicacy. As the gaze is drawn inwards, the movement reveals its tender “old gold” colour, an exclusive feature that the brand refers to as a Potter finish. Above it sits an openworked plate adorned with screws and leaving ample space for the tourbillon and the seconds display.
The dominant grey metal, circular brushed on the surface of the grid and polished on the modernised tourbillon bridge, is accented with some warm old gold touches on the screw heads and the seconds circle. The delicate dial composition is complemented by a snow-white retrograde hour arc of a circle and a minute circle.
They respectively feature stamped hour-markers and applied rhodium-plated polished numerals. In a final subtle touch, the hands are skeletonised to preserve the architectural harmony distinguishing the face of the Arena Tourbillon Snow White.
The creation appears bathed in the light radiating from its particularly luxurious exterior. Gérald Genta has used the most precious metals in order to create the kind of original combination for which it is renowned. The brand has treated the Arena Tourbillon Snow White to a platinum case and diamond-set palladium bezel, while the naturally white strap is in genuine crocodile leather.
The masterpiece housed within the Arena Tourbillon Snow White deserved an equally stunning showcase. The self-winding tourbillon movement is technically remarkable in terms of its slenderness (5.90 mm thick), its large power reserve (64 hours) and the perfect integration of its retrograde hour display. Already ranked high on the scale of complications in which Gérald Genta watchmakers are acknowledged specialists, it takes on truly exceptional value at the hands of the craftsmen who perform the finishing. Circular graining, bevelling, polishing, circular satin polishing, straightening, drawn-out flanks: everything is hand-crafted in keeping with the noblest traditions. That which is hidden is fully worthy of what is visible, just as one would expect from the degree of authentic Haute Horlogerie that is attracting more and more women these days. Technical details
Reference: ATR.X.75.918.CD.BD and ATR.X.75.918.CD.BD.S02
Movement
Calibre number :GG9053
Power-Reserve: 64 hours
Mechanism: Tourbillon +Retrograde hours
Introduced: 2008
Height: 5.90 mm
Diameter: 29.00 mm
Vibrations: 21’600 A/h.
Balance: 2-arms with screws
Balance-spring :Flat
Escapement: In line lever Tourbillon
Jewelling: 54 jewels
Special finishing on movement: Spéciale Concentric “perlage” and special color
Case, dial and strap
Case: Platinium 950 (polished + fluted)
Diameter: 41,00 mm
Thickness: 13,15 mm
Distance between lugs: 20,00 mm
Dial material: Brass white laquered
Bezel: Palladium 950 (satin-brushed);Palladium 950 setted 102 diamonds 2.93 carats TW VS to VVS
Bracelet: Alligator
Water-resistant :10 atm
With a visionary design created by Milan-based designer Giorgio Galli, coupled with a German engineered patented linear movement, the Linear Chronograph Time Instrument by TX Watches expresses a new linear aesthetic of time.
Free of the constraints which restrict the display of progression of time to circles and fans, the wholly unique TX Linear Chronograph is instantly captivating, immediately different.
Precision engineered in Germany, the movement is the inevitable result of freethinking and individualism. The instrument is driven by a sophisticated six hand movement which is run by four motors, each operating independently of each other. The traditional time-telling hands are powered by a unidirectional motor. Bidirectional motors propel the linear hand located at nine o’clock, which indicates the minute of the chronograph function, and a retrograde hand at four o’clock that tracks the hours of the chronograph.
Liberating from the tradition of circularity, design is free to express a new linear aesthetic of time. Embracing the contrast of traditional curves and the direct masculinity of straight line, the final design vision is one of balance, confidence, beauty and power.
Galli’s attention to detail in the design is unsurpassed – multiple and distinct textured finishes on the dial, the TX logo inscribed on the watches natural rubber bands and screw-down crowns, and raised numerals on the watch bezel. Each is a luxurious touch on its own. Together, they elevate the Linear Chronograph Time Instrument to icon status.
Available in two case sizes, 44 millimetres and 47 millimetres, crafted from quality steel and titanium, the Linear Chronograph creates a clean and precise silhouette on the wrist. The titanium sourced for the Linear Chronograph is six times stronger and harder than other titanium.
In some models, Galli has incorporated vibrant rose gold accents on bezels, markers, hands and crowns, which create a juxtaposition of old-world craftsmanship next to high tech chic. Quality leather and natural rubber straps in black, bright yellow and vibrant orange, the collection’s signature shade, round out the nine Linear Chronograph timepieces’ meticulous execution.
Marc Rouah, the founder of Swiss luxury watch company Time-Wise SA, presents Epicycle Series. Available in different versions in white, yellow or pink gold, this timepiece collection is completely manufactured in Switzerland. The classic watch case measuring 39mm diameter houses a self-winding mechanical movement with MR01 module.
Marc Rouah Epicycle Joaillerie sur or gris
Case :18kt white gold
Diameter of the Case: 39 mm, thickness: 11,5 mm
Antidazzle sapphire-crystal glass., treated anti-reflecting on the two faces.
Crimped glasses of 48 Païlin sapphires cut rod, pods total of 3,91 carats. Exist crimped emerald, ruby, and diamond cuts rod of it, on order. Cabochon sapphire crimped in the center of the zero of the minutes. Fund sapphire, anti-reflecting treaty on the two faces.
Dial: 18kt white gold.
Movement: Self-winding mechanical movement with MR01 module.
Power Reserve: 42 hours,
Frequency: 28.800 alternations per hour. Oscillating mass in 18kt white gold .
Bracelet: Alligator full skin or leather, on loop deploying in 18kt white gold.
Water resistance: 30 meters.
Fully manufactured in Switzerland.
Marc Rouah -Epicycle or gris
Limited edition to 99 pieces
Case in 18kt white gold.
Diameter : 39 mm, thickness: 11,5 mm.
Antidazzle sapphire-crystal glass.
Antidazzle sapphire-crystal glass back.
18kt white gold dial.
Self-winding mechanical movement with MR01 module.
42 hours power reserve, 28,800 v/n.
Engraved oscillating weight in 18kt white gold.
Hand sewed alligator strap with a 18kt white gold deployante buckle.
Water resistant to 30 meters.
Fully manufactured in Switzerland.
Marc Rouah Epicycle or jaune
Limited edition to 99 pieces
Case in 18kt yellow gold.
Diameter : 39 mm, thickness: 11,5 mm.
Antidazzle sapphire-crystal glass.
Antidazzle sapphire-crystal glass back.
18kt white gold dial.
Self-winding mecanical movement with MR01 module.
42 hours power reserve, 28,800 v/n.
Engraved oscillating weight in 18kt yellow gold.
Hand sewed alligator strap with a 18kt gold deployante buckle.
Water resistant to 30 meters.
Fully manufactured in Switzerland.
Marc Rouah-Epicycle or rose
Limited edition to 99 pieces
Case in 18kt pink gold.
Diameter : 39 mm, thickness: 11,5 mm.
Antidazzle sapphire-crystal glass.
Antidazzle sapphire-crystal glass back.
18kt white gold dial.
Self-winding mecanical movement with MR01 module.
42 hours power reserve, 28,800 v/n.
Engraved oscillating weight in 18kt pink gold.
Hand sewed alligator strap with a 18kt pink gold deployante buckle.
Introduced in 2008, this unique jewellery set of diamond studded wrist watch and choker, which has emerged from the Audemars Piguet Haute Joaillerie workshop, is an invitation to close your eyes and allow yourself to daydream for a few moments.
The floral theme, embodying quintessential femininity, was the inspiration behind this jewellery creation. Nature is expressed here in all its abundant exuberance, almost as if one were actually witnessing the opening of buds or the unfurling of petals and stems. It is no coincidence that this creation so perfectly reflects nature itself, since Audemars Piguet has its very own Haute Joaillerie workshop.
In this propitious environment, experienced specialists begin by finding the purest gemstones that talented jewellers then display to their best advantage through the noble art of gemsetting. The design gradually takes shape, as at each stage the various craftsmen assess the volumes, readjusting shapes to achieve a perfectly balanced and harmonious whole. For the Carnet de Bal jewellery set, several diamond cuts have been finely fashioned: marquise, pear, and baguette and, of course, brilliant cuts. These admirable gems are further enhanced by different types of gemsetting using closed, claw or grain techniques.
The white gold necklace, which alone called for more than 500 hours of work, is composed of 1,039 diamonds. Yet what first strikes the observer is its sheer volume: the composition of the flowers adorning the choker is delicately cambered and tipped with mobile stems of varying lengths.
Thanks to the extremely fine interlacing motif, the curve of the necklace is a fascinating blend of softness and flowing motion. The flowers and foliage of the cuff-watch sway with the same ease, their stems spreading over the hand in a graceful lacy plant-like motif.
Technical details
Wristwatch Reference
79414BC.ZZ.9177BC.01
Movement
Calibre: 2046, hand-wound
Total diameter: 15.70 mm (63/4 lignes)
Casing-diameter: 15.30 mm
Thickness: 2.90 mm
18 jewels
85 parts
Power reserve: up to 42 hours
Cadence of the balance: 21,600 vibrations per hour
Finishing: all parts decorated by hand; circular-grained plate; bridges rhodium-plated, bevelled, snailed and adorned with “côtes de Genève” motif
Case
18-carat white gold set with diamonds, oval-shaped
Dial
Floral motif engraved on white mother-of-pearl, diamond hour-markers
Strap
18-carat white gold, semi-rigid, composed of floral elements and set with brilliant-, pear-, marquise- and baguette-cut diamonds
Pendants on flexible stems set with brilliant-cut Diamonds
Safety jewellery clasp in 18-carat white gold
Customised adjustment in the Audemars Piguet workshops
Gemsetting: 481 diamonds (~ 59.53 carats)
Functions
Hours and minutes
Choker Reference
TC0726.BCU.US.Z000
18-carat white gold set with 1,039 brilliant-, marquise-, pear- and baguette-cut diamonds
(~ 86 carats)
Weight: ~ 185 g
Introduced in 2008, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Survivor Chronograph is a sturdy and highly functional timepiece crafted in blackened titanium. This ultra-light material has been chosen for the case and the surrounding elements: studs, pushpieces and pushpiece guards, crown and oversized strap buckle. The same goes for the medallion back featuring a special non-slip texture.
Titanium also shows up on the lower part of the octagonal bezel, while its upper part opts for ceramics. The latter is distinguished by clearly marked vertical grooves reminiscent of the characteristic satin finish of the Royal Oak Offshore collection.
The strap is made from vulcanised rubber, an indispensable part of the extreme sports universe. Its matt black granular surface accentuates the adventurous camouflage-type look of this chronograph issued in a limited edition of 1,000.
Each detail is meticulously designed to ensure a blend of efficiency and lightness. The perforations on the bezel lighten up the structure without compromising its sturdiness.
The hollowed pushpieces equipped with a security look ensure user-friendly handling. In a similar vein, the generous size and notched rim of the crown, as well as the ratcheted case edge, facilitate getting a quick and sure grip on this exceptional instrument.
The conical shape of the pushpieces guarantees instant activation of the chronograph function, while the skeleton hands, luminescent hour-markers and silver-coloured small seconds counter guarantee optimal readability by day or night. And finally, since nothing is left to chance, a careful observer will note the apertures on the case middle and studs.
The Royal Oak Offshore signature features
Strongbox-type case water-resistant to 100 metres, with antimagnetic system designed to protect the mechanism from any hostile element
Hexagonal socket-head screws echoing the legendary hexagonal screws of the Royal Oak Offshore models
Exclusive “Méga Tapisserie” guilloché pattern on the dial, matched on this model by the chequered motif on the strap
Strap perfectly integrated with the case
The Royal Oak Offshore Survivor houses the exclusive Audemars Piguet selfwinding Calibre 3126/3840, guaranteeing sturdiness, reliability and precision rating:
Up to 60-hour power reserve thanks to a mainspring which, by supplying constant force over a longer time-span, ensures enhanced rating accuracy
A cross-through balance-cock reinforcing the stability of the movement
A balance-stop mechanism serving to immobilise the seconds hand and thus enabling time-setting to the nearest second
A variable-inertia balance equipped with eight inertia-blocks enabling precise and stable adjustment;
Fast date correction with an integrated security system avoiding any risk of date disc blockage when the adjustment occurs at midnight
Bidirectional automatic winding of the mainspring by means of a 22-carat gold rotor mounted on a ball-bearing mechanism.
Technical details
Model: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Survivor Reference: 26165IO.OO.A002CA.01 Limited series of 1,000 pieces
Movement
Calibre: 3126/3840, selfwinding
Total diameter: 26 mm (11? lignes)
Thickness: 7.16 mm
59 jewels
365 parts
Up to 60-hour power reserve
Cadence of the balance: 21,600 vibrations per hour
Variable-inertia balance with eight inertia-blocks and a flat balance-spring
Geneva-type mobile balance-spring stud-holder
Three-position winding crown
Finishing: all parts decorated by hand; mainplate rhodium-plated, bevelled and stippled; bridges adorned with “côtes de Genève” motif
Case
Strongbox-type case with antimagnetic system, cone-shaped pushpieces, hollowed pushpiece guards, crown, crown guard and studs in blackened titanium
Perforated ceramic bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 15.65 mm
Water-resistance: 100 m
Medallion back in blackened titanium with non-slip motif, titanium zone engraved with the inscription Royal Oak Offshore Survivor – Limited Edition
Dial
Matt black, exclusive “Méga Tapisserie” guilloché motif
Snailed hour-circle
Luminescent skeleton hour and minute hands
Luminescent applied hour-markers
Functions
Hours and minutes
Small seconds
Chronograph with central sweep seconds hand, 30-minute and 12-hour counters
Tachometric scale around the flange
Date
Strap
Vulcanised rubber with chequered motifs and oversized buckle in blackened titanium
Louis Erard presents 1931 Retrograde, the latest model in the Louis Erard 1931 Collection. It is a truly eye-catching timepiece, thanks to the impressive ballet performed on its dial.
In addition to three centre hands (hour, minute and seconds), this automatic watch features a retrograde date display at 3 o’clock, power reserve indicator at 6 o’clock and a rotating disc at 9 o’ clock for day.
The Louis Erard 1931 Retrograde watch is equipped with the ETA 2892/9094 automatic movement with a Soprod complication. An innovative movement, skilfully presented, is revealed through the transparent caseback.
Two dial versions are available: Silvered and black. Combining grace and power to perfection, this timepiece comes with a large 44-mm case, wide middle, vigorous guilloché work on the dial, and the sporty red of some of the display elements.
Technical details
Model: Louis Erard 1931 Retrograde
Movement
Automatic mechanical, ETA 2892/9094 Soprod
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, day; retrograde date and power reserve
Case
Stainless steel, 44 mm
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Transparent back
Water-resistant to 50 metres
Dial
Silvered or black with silvered indexes
Hours, minutes, seconds at centre
Day counter at 9 o’clock
Retrograde date at 3 o’clock
Retrograde power reserve at 6 o’clock
Strap
Brown, black or chocolate genuine leather with stainless steel folding clasp
This exceptional timepiece from Edox features an automatic movement with a repeater mechanism that rings the hour with two hammers. This mechanical ballet can be admired through the partially open-worked dial.
The EDOX Classe Royal 5 Minute Repeater watch has a case made of 316L stainless steel. It features a time-setting crown at 4 o’ clock and a pusher to activate repeater at 8 o’ clock. The watch is topped with a convex sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective treatment. The screwed down case back with transparent crystal allows the view of complex mechanical movement beating inside the watch.
Technical details
Model: EDOX Classe Royal 5 Minute Repeater
Movement
Automatic, Edox 87 calibre on an ETA 2892 A2 base, 28,000 vib/h, 36 jewels, 42-hour power reserve
Functions
Hours and minutes, both visual and audible
Case
Two-tone 316L steel : 6 parts polished, 6 parts black PVD coated, 42 x 42 mm
Convex anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Screw-down transparent back
Water-resistant to 50 m
Dial
Two-tone silvered and black, partially open to reveal the movement
Hands partially coated with Superluminova
Strap
Black crocodile with folding clasp and circular-grained steel flap
Launched in 2008, the OMEGA Speedmaster GMT “Solar Impulse” was inspired by and created in honour of the Solar Impulse project whose ambition was to circumnavigate the globe in an airplane powered only by the sun.
The watch combines elegant but sporty design with cutting-edge technology. Its dramatic, Speedmaster-influenced dial is made of black carbon fibre similar to the HB-SIA’s composite covering. The slightly-recessed black chronograph and small seconds counters creatively contribute to the watch’s outstanding legibility. Another detail on the timepiece’s unique dial is the discreet “HB-SIA” appearing in ochre on the dial at 12 o’clock.
The Speedmaster GMT “Solar Impulse” features central hour, minute hand, and chronograph seconds hand. There is also a central GMT hand, with an airplane-shaped pointer, which completes one rotation in 24 hours and can be used to read a second time zone.
The GMT hand can also be used for compass orientation: When the watch’s hour hand is pointed in the direction of the sun, the GMT hand, when it is adjusted to the same time on the 24-hour GMT scale, will indicate north. The titanium bezel is fixed with a matte black aluminium ring and features the designation “TACHYMETER BASE 1000” in ochre with a tachymeter index.
The 44.25 mm case is fashioned of brushed, polished titanium and is presented either on a matching titanium bracelet or a rubber strap designed especially for the watch. The distinctive, textured finish on the inside of the rubber strap is reminiscent of the Solar Impulse’s carbon fibre-honeycomb composite structure.
The Speedmaster GMT “Solar Impulse” is a numbered edition and its number is engraved on the caseback which also features a colourful, etched Solar Impulse HB-SIA patch. The watch is powered by the exclusive Omega Calibre 3603 whose revolutionary Co-Axial Escapement and free sprung balance deliver stable long-term accuracy and reliability and is a COSC-certified chronometer. It is equipped with a sophisticated column-wheel chronograph mechanism.
Case
Diameter: 44.25 mm Height: 15.75 mm
Water resistant up to: 100 m (330 ft)
Polished-brushed grade 2 titanium case
Brushed grade 2 titanium bezel with black tachymetre ring, “Tachymetre base 1000” in ochre
Brushed crown and pushers in grade 2 titanium, crown embossed with polished Omega logo
Box-form scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Screw-in caseback in brushed grade 2 titanium, laser engraved with “Test Flight” and numbered edition number; central sapphire crystal etched with Omega logo-name, “SolarImpulse”, “HB-SIA” and the plane patch
Display
Central hour-minute-GMT hands, small seconds at 9H, date window at 4H30
Central chronograph seconds hand, 30-minute recorder at 3H, 12-hour recorder at 6H
Dial
Black dial in carbon fibre with black counters
Transferred white Omega name-logo and readings; transferred licence plate “HB-SIA” in ochre
Indexes coated with Super-LumiNova
Hands
Matt black & white hour-minute hands coated with Super-LumiNova
Matt white chronograph seconds-hand coated with Super-LumiNova; ochre tip
Matt white counter- and recorder-hands
Matt black GMT hand with ochre “North” on counterweight, ochre “GMT” and line on hand and plane-shaped tip painted with Super-LumiNova
Bracelet
Polished and brushed grade 2 titanium bracelet with safety clasp engraved with “HB-SIA Solar Impulse”
Fitting: 21 mm between lugs, 18 mm on clasp
During Basel world 2008, Blancpain once again displayed its innovative strength by presenting the first ever movement equipped with a one-minute karussel. A complication all but forgotten for over a century by the great names in the watch industry, the karussel is a viable alternative to the tourbillon. Like the latter, it aims to reduce the effect of gravity on the rate of a movement.
By rehabilitating this mechanisms and opening up whole new horizons for this mechanism reduced to wristwatch size for the very first time, Blancpain once again makes its mark on watchmaking history and puts a stylish end to the heated debate between exponents of diverging views on the definition of the karussel.
Blancpain Carrousel Volant Une Minute – World’s First Karussel Wristwatch
Whereas very few brands in 1989 fully mastered the creation of classical tourbillons, Blancpain already stood out from the crowd by presenting the world’s thinnest tourbillon. To achieve this, the master-watchmakers of the Manufacture in Le Brassus had modified the classic arrangement of the balance in order to achieve optimal slenderness. In doing so, they had naturally deviated from the architecture of the historical model developed by Abraham-Louis Breguet on which the balance was placed at the very centre of the carriage.
Blancpain’s decision to take such a liberty had already generated a number of reactions among connoisseurs, some of whom found it hard to recognise such an unusual composition as a genuine tourbillon. While the function was definitely there, the form had been entirely redesigned. This reinterpretation of a grand tradition already confirmed Blancpain its two-fold role as the guardian of a noble heritage and an enlightened innovator.
A major patented evolution
The new Carrousel Volant Une Minute by Blancpain stems from a parallel process. Invented in 1892 by the watchmaker Bahne Bonniksen, the karussel features a system driving the carriage by a differential effect. Long ignored by watchmaker, it has not been updated by the Manufacture which is offering a major patented evolution of the mechanism.
While the early karussels took several minutes to perform a complete rotation, the one introduced by Blancpain takes exactly 60 seconds to cover the same distance – an impressive feat in itself. This swift movement and the effort devoted to reviving this invention are entirely in tune with the pioneering spirit of the Manufacture in Le Brassus.
Code-named 225, the self-winding calibre comprises 262 parts and is endowed with a 100-hour power reserve. It is housed within a platinum case measuring 43.5 mm in diameter and enhanced by a semi-skeleton dial revealing an array of toothed wheels, bridges and plates.
A «light shaft» at 12 o’clock unveils the fascinating palpitations of the flying karussel, on which one of the carriage bridges indicates the seconds. The power reserve is displayed at 6 o’clock by a hand moving over an arc of a circle between the signs “+” and “-”. A double hand with arms of different lengths indicates the date on two graduated and staggered rows at 9 o’clock.
RENEWING THE KARUSSEL
After revolutionising the tourbillon in 1989 with the presentation of an ultra-thin flying model equipped with an off-centred balance, Blancpain now presents an unprecedented interpretation of the karussel complication in the shape of its Carrousel Volant Une Minute. This refined technical device, the equivalent of the tourbillon in terms of its function, is distinguished in this version by its eminent complexity.
Blancpain thereby confirms its peerless innovative status by rehabilitating and enhancing the karussel, a complication that had been virtually relegated into oblivion shortly after it was presented in 1992 by its creator Bahne Bonniksen. By taking up the principles established by its inventor and presenting them in a considerably more evolved version, the Manufacture again demonstrates its dynamic momentum – and in doing so puts an end to a controversy that has nurtured heated debates among specialists.
Tourbillons and karussels share the property of compensating for the effects of gravity on a watch movement. By making the entire mechanism spin on its axis within a carriage, the movement itself manages to compensate for the detrimental effects of gravity by acting as an authentic regulator of time.
Following images show the difference between a Tourbillon & Karussel movements.
Karussels and tourbillons differ however in the manner in which they perform this function. In a tourbillon, the carriage is connected to the barrel through a single gear train. This means that if this mechanical connection is interrupted, the tourbillon itself stops rotating.
The karussel on the other hand is linked to the barrel by two gear trains. The first provides the energy required to run the escapement, while the second controls the rotation speed of the carriage.
The difference between the two systems thereby consists in a more sophisticated and component-rich construction in the case of the karussel.
60 seconds and a Blancpain patent
In addition to the fact that it revives this under-exploited complication, the Blancpain Carrousel Volant Une Minute goes much further than Bonniksen’s initial invention. While the latter paid no particular attention to the speed of rotation, which amounted to anything from 27 to 42 minutes depending on the model, the Manufacture has opted to develop a complete differential gear control system. Here again, Blancpain sets itself apart by being the first watch brand to appropriate this prestigious invention by updating and perfecting it. Until now, the differential gear system regulating the rotation of the karussel carriage had not been the object of any in-depth research. By elaborating – and patenting – a system causing it to rotate in exactly 60 seconds, Blancpain makes yet another decisive contribution to watchmaking history.
1989: the Ultra-Slim Flying Tourbillon
This is not the first time that Blancpain revisits a legendary horological complication and offers a totally innovative interpretation. In 1989, the Manufacture had caused a sensation by presenting its Ultra-Slim Flying Tourbillon endowed with an 8-day power reserve. The Manufacture from Le Brassus had taken the liberty of offering its own take on one of the most iconic and refined horological mechanisms; the tourbillon as it had been designed by its inventor Abraham-Louis Breguet.
Rightly considered as one of the most inventive ever watchmakers due to the wealth and complexity of his discoveries, the native of Canton Neuchâtel, Abraham-Louis Breguet, registered his patent for the tourbillon in 1801. Containing a wealth of information, this document describes the operating principle of the complication and even provides an illustrated version of the system. This technical drawing shows an escapement placed at the centre of the carriage, an arrangement that would be taken up by generations of watchmakers as a reference in the field. Nonetheless, the document in no way states that this particular layout must be aided by at all costs, which means it provides scope for a different interpretation, providing the function is adhered to.
Blancpain took intelligent advantage of this opportunity by unveiling an original movement in 1989, equipped with the world’s thinnest-ever flying tourbillon. The news made a profound impact on the world of Haute Horlogerie purists. So accustomed were they to seeing this complication in the configuration suggested by Breguet, that the most traditional among them simply could not accept this alternative vision, which they incorrectly described as a karussel. Blancpain had achieved the master stroke of giving a new face to the tourbillon, while keeping its function intact.
With its Carrousel Volant Une Minute located at the centre of the mechanism, Blancpain once again redefines the characteristics of an ancient innovation. When Bahne Bonniksen invented the karussel, he was mostly interested in offering an extremely accurate pocket-watch with a very reasonable production cost. Once his discovery was patented, several of his watches won various chronometry prizes. Nonetheless, the very nature of his invention with the large number of components it comprised did not actually help to keep costs down. Moreover, Bonniksen was not at all concerned with the rotation speed of the carriage.
Watchmaking connoisseurs would doubtless have totally forgotten this ultra-rare complication if Blancpain had not decided to give it such a superlative new lease on life. Just as it had done with the tourbillon, the Manufacture in Le Brassus kept the function as such, while seeking to fundamentally improve it.
As the world’s first karussel wristwatch, Blancpain’s innovation consists first and foremost in its capacity to miniaturise this extremely complex mechanism. Another major innovative feature lies in the fact that the Blancpain watchmakers poured all their expertise and all their inventive abilities into placing the balance of this karussel at the very centre of the carriage. Finally, Blancpain’s Carrousel Volant Une Minute features an exclusive differential gear system that precisely controls the rotation speed of the carriage. By performing a complete revolution in one minute, this new world-first calibre heralds a whole new line of timepieces.
Above and beyond the technical challenges, the Manufacture from Le Brassus is taking an amusing revenge on history. Whereas several self-proclaimed specialists explained in 1989 that Blancpain’s tourbillon was in fact a karussel (due to its off-centred balance), they also stated in no uncertain terms that the central position of the balance was the very signature of a tourbillon. The Manufacture Blancpain is therefore has presented its undeniable karussel with a balance at the centre of the carriage.
THE BLANCPAIN CARROUSEL VOLANT UNE MINUTE
A truly prodigious horological construction, the Carrousel Volant Une Minute by Blancpain takes its place on the watchmaking stage as a genuine alternative to the tourbillon. The first ever wristwatch karussel, it is surprising not only by its construction with the balance at the centre of the carriage, but also by its size/power-reserve ration which makes this Blancpain timepiece the most high-performance karussel ever made.
The fruit of lengthy and in-depth endeavours, this newcomer to the catalogue of the Manufacture from Le Brassus does not belong to any existing family. The brand has therefore left it a place all its own, aside from the historical collections on which it has built its reputation.
Calibre 225 is a 262-part, 36-jewel movement featuring a balance with screws and a flat balance-spring. Driving the hour, minute, seconds and date functions, it houses a flying karussel performing a complete rotation in 60 seconds.
This mechanical self-winding calibre, beating at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, is endowed with a 100-hour power reserve. The date is adjusted by means of an exclusive under-lug corrector system developed and patented by Blancpain. Thanks to a pusher located beneath one of the case lugs at 10 o’clock, the wearer can adjust the date at the press of a finger. This aesthetic and practical under-lug correct guarantees optimal user friendless and particularly easy handling.
The semi-skeletonised dial reveals the intricate ballet of the toothed wheels and the pure architecture of the hand-bevelled bridges and plates. The dagger-shaped hour and minute hands, partially hollowed and tipped with a Superluminova coating, mark off the time on a railtrack composed of bevelled hour-markers and slender black lines. At 12 o’clock, a “light shaft” reveals the karussel in all its complexity. This elaborate stage-setting accentuates the shapes of the carriage, on which one of the bridges is shaped like a hand to indicate the seconds.
The power-reserve level is displayed at 6 o’clock by means of a hand moving over a scale running from the sign “+” to “-”. At 9 o’clock, the date is shown by a semi-circle also hugging the side of the dial. An ingenious system consisting of a double hand with two hands of different lengths provides a staggered read-off of the latter. The name “Blancpain” appears at 3 o’clock thereby ensuring a perfectly balanced overall visual effect.
To underscore the exceptional nature of the Carrousel Volant Une Minute, Blancpain has created an exterior worthy of its technical qualities. The 43.5 mm-diameter case, an unprecedented size in the brand universe, has been crafted from 950 platinum, the most precious of all metals and one of the hardest to fashion. Its restrained design and its generous size impart an aura of strength and elegance. The crown is fluted and stamped with the Blancpain logo, while the black crocodile leather strap is fitted with a folding clasp in 950 platinum.
BREGUET’S IDEA AND THAT OF BONNIKSEN
As early as 1770, faced with the difficulty of eliminating the causes of the flaw in the balance poising, Breguet had the brilliant idea of multiplying the causes in order to eliminate the effects. To achieve this, he conceived a means of mounting the entire escapement on a tiny platform that spun on its axis in one, four or six minutes. The flaws were thus repeated in one direction or the other at regular intervals, thereby cancelling each other out. The gain or loss sustained during one half-turn of the platform was automatically compensated for by the gain or loss sustained during the following half-turn.
Breguet described this principle in several memoirs written between 1779 and 1800, but it was on June 26th 1801 that the French Ministry of the Interior granted him the patent that gave him the sole right to build this type of watch during a 10-year period. The Breguet patent explains that, in a tourbillon regulator, whatever the type of escapement, whether of the lever or detent type, the escape-wheel is driven by the mobile carriage, which means that the latter is an integral part of the gear train. The balance also performs a revolution along its oscillation axis. In other words, the pivoting point of the Breguet balance is located firmly in the centre of the carriage – which is precisely the case for Blancpain’s karussel.
Almost a century after Breguet, the London-based Danish horologer Bahne Bonniksen set himself the goal of responding to a specific demand of that time: to create an extremely accurate pocket-watch that would cost less to make than a tourbillon. In 1892, he filed a patent for a watch that he named a karussel because of its rotating balance. The time taken to perform this rotation was of little importance to Bonniksen, some of whose watches were to win official observatory chronometry prizes.
While the objective of accuracy was indeed achieved by Bonniksen’s karussel, that of a more affordable price than the tourbillon proved a far tougher proposition. The Dane believed that the karussel would take less time to adjust, but the fact that it comprised far more components led to other difficulties. That was doubtless partly why the karussel was long neglected and disparaged – not to mention the fact that it was no easy feat to vie with an invention by the brilliant Breguet, official Court watchmaker!
Today, the karussel’s return to centre-stage thanks to Blancpain’s innovations should enable this function to regain its legitimate status and to demonstrate its authentic complexity. A complexity even more apparent in this innovative interpretation introduced by the Manufacture from Le Brassus, involving mastery of a differential gear system to succeed in rotating the carriage every 60 seconds.
Technical details
Model: Carrousel “Volant Une Minute”, Ref. 00225-3434-63B
Carrousel “Volant Une Minute”, indication of the power-reserve, date and seconds, semi skeletonised dial, under-lug correctors, self-winding
Edition
Limited to 288 pieces
Movement
Calibre 225
Thickness: 5.89 mm
Diameter: 26.20 mm
Power reserve: 100 hours
Rubies: 36
Components: 262
Case
Platinum
43.50 mm diameter
14.00 mm thickness
Water resistance: 100 meters
Sapphire crystal case back
The outstanding characteristics of the Chopard Mille Miglia GT XL GMT include a dual time-zone indication and a representation of the globe at the centre of the dial.
The watch uncompromisingly flaunts its sporting and dynamic nature with features such as the oversized 12 and 6 o’clock Arabic numerals and the Superluminova hour-markers as well as the hour and minute hands.
Signature features of the Mille Miglia collection are continued with the famous red arrow and the emblem of the legendary race with which Chopard has been associated since 1988. The watch is also fitted with a natural rubber strap resembling the tread of the 1960’s Dunlop Racing tyres.
Water-resistant to 100 metres, fitted with a glare-proof sapphire crystal completed with magnifying glass and a screw-locked crown stamped with the Mille Miglia arrow, its generous 44 mm case houses a mechanical self-winding movement chronometer-certified by the COSC – a sure token of precision and reliability. It shows the hours, minutes and central seconds, along with a date window and a central second time-zone hand.
The Mille Miglia GT XL GMT comes in a choice of steel (black dial) or 18-carat rose gold (slate-grey dial) versions. As an alternative to the tyre-tread rubber version, the strap is also available in Barenia leather, complete with steel or 18-carat rose gold folding clasp.
Technical details
Model: Chopard Mille Miglia GT XL GMT
Case
Steel or 18ct rose gold
Total diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 14.25 mm
Water-resistant to 100 metres
Glare-proof sapphire crystal with built-in magnifying glass
Screw-locked crown in steel or rose gold struck with the Mille Miglia arrow
Movement
Self-winding
Diameter: 37.2 mm
Total thickness: 7.9 mm
Number of jewels: 24
Power reserve: approx. 46 hours
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Stop seconds device while setting the time
Bridges decorated with straight-line “Côtes de Genève”
Chronometer-certified (COSC)
Dial and hands
Black dial for the steel model or slate-grey dial for the rose gold model, with applied Superluminova-coated hour-markers and numerals (6 and 12)
Hour and minute hands coated with Superluminova to ensure perfect night-time readability
Functions/Indications
Hours, minutes, central seconds
Date window
GMT function: central 2nd time-zone hand
Straps and buckle
Barenia leather or natural black rubber strap (with 1960s Dunlop Racing tyre-tread motif)
Folding clasp in polished steel or rose gold
References
Ref. 168514-3001 in steel, black dial (Boutique exclusivity)
Ref. 161277-5001 in rose gold, slate-grey dial
Launched in 2008, the Museum Collection N° 8 “Racend Timer” honours one of OMEGA’s most distinguished contributions to the world of sports timing.
In 1949, the first photo-finish camera, the Racend Timer, was introduced, solving the problem of grouped arrivals at the finish lines of track events. OMEGA is renowned for its innovation in the field of sports timing and it is fitting that the watch which pays tribute to the Racend Timer is a technological as well as an aesthetic marvel.
The “Racend Timer” is driven by the exclusive OMEGA Co-Axial calibre 3201 whose revolutionary Escapement and free sprung balance deliver stable long-term accuracy and reliability. The COSC certified chronometer has a sophisticated column-wheel chronograph mechanism. The 39 mm case and the bezel are made of polished, brushed 18-Ct pink gold. The hour and minute hands are also formed in pink gold.
The polished, clasped 18-Ct pink gold caseback is decorated with a special Museum engraving and the limited edition number. The “Racend Timer” has a creamed opaline silver dial which is viewed through a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment and has transferred pulsometer (red) and tachymeter (blue) tracks. The watch is water resistant to 30 metres.
Produced in a limited edition of 1949 pieces, this Museum Collection piece is fitted with a brown alligator strap on a polished 18-Ct pink gold buckle.
Case
Diameter : 39.00 mm Height : 11.05 mm
Water resistant up to : 30 m (100 ft)
Polished and brushed 18 Ct 4N pink gold case body and bezel; bezel mounted by 4 invisible screws onto the body
Polished 18 Ct 4N pink gold crown and pushers, Omega vintage logo embossed on crown
Box-form scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment inside
Polished clasped 18 Ct 4N pink gold case back with special Museum engraving and limited edition number
Display
Central hour-minute hands, small seconds at 9H
Central chronograph seconds hand, 30-minute recorder at 3H, 12-hour recorder at 6H
Dial
Creamed opaline silver dial with opaline silver recorders
Diamond polished applied 18 Ct 4N rose gold vintage Omega logo, facetted indexes and 12H hour-marker
Pulsometer (red) and tachymeter (blue) tracks transferred on dial
In 2007, Italian car manufacturer Alfa Romeo commercially launched its 8C Competizione sports car.
Giuliano Mazzuoli has dedicated a version of its innovative Contagiri watch to the 8C Competizione in a limited edition series of 500 + 1 pieces reserved for the privileged owners of the sports car. The dial of the watch is inspired by the rev counter in the automobile.
Like all watches from this collection, this limited edition model features a highly legible dial inspired by the rev counter (RPM gauge) in the automobile. The black dial of the Contagiri 8C watch has a retrograde scale and the hand that indicates time placed on the centre.
This hand follows the arc-shaped scale featuring hour-markers and minute scales. At 12 o’clock the hand goes back employing 1/10 of a second repositioning itself always at the 0 (in reality it’s 12 o’clock) with the historic green four-leaf clover symbol representing Alfa Romeo Quadrifoglio. The numbering on the dial offers maximum legibility.
The indicators between one hour and another indicate the minutes as follows: the first short line indicates 15 minutes, the long line at the center indicates the 30 minutes, and the other short line indicates the 45 minutes. The small hand that completes an arc of 360° does not indicate the seconds but confirms that the watch is running.
The Contagiri 8C Competizione is a limited edition of 500+1 pieces in white gold and carbon fiber. The case back and the watch box will have the same personalization as the automobile with the same limited edition serial number.
The Contagiri watch does not feature any crown for winding the movement and setting the time. Instead, it has a function lever and through the lunette of the watch you can carry out the functions usually done through the crown.
Winding the watch
By pushing the lower part of the lever (the gear shift) towards the watch, the upper part of the lever will come out allowing you to push it out a few millimeters.
The four-leaf clover will disappear and in its place the number 1 will appear. In this position the watch is in winding position. With the lever in this position the watch can be wound by turning the lunette clockwise or counter clockwise like you would through a normal crown.
Pushing the lever back towards the watch, the four-leaf clover reappears and the small hand in motion indicates that the watch is running normally and the “automatic” watch if worn will continue running.
Setting the time
By pushing the lever out a few more degrees from the winding position (the watch indicates the number 1) the number 2 will appear.
By turning the lunette clockwise or counter clockwise the time can be set.
By pushing the lever towards the watch until the four-leaf clover reappears, the small hand on the watch will start to move and the watch will start running again.
Technical details
Model: Contagiri 8C
Movement
Mechanical with automatic winding
Calibre GM Cambiosequenziale/01 alternance 10
111⁄2 lignes (25.94 mm)
42-hour power reserve
Frequency 28800 A/h (4Hz)
Shockproof (incabloc model)
29 jewels
131 components
Decoration: Main plate and bridges with Côtes de Genève (parallel bands)
Case
Case in carbon fiber (42 layers) with case back and lunette in 18K white gold
44 mm diameter
Thickness: 13.30
Crystal: Convex sapphire crystal
Water Resistance: 5 atmospheres (50 meters)
Dial
Black dial with Arabic numerals
Functions
Central hour hand retrogrades after going through an arc of 270°
Patents
3 worldwide patents
Straps
Strap in pure smooth rubber
Strap in pure rubber stamped with a woven pattern
Buckles
Butterfly buckle in 18 kt white gold for symmetrical straps in smooth rubber or with a woven pattern is available upon request.
Ardillon buckle in 18 kt white gold
Watch box
The watch box is covered in smooth calf-skin leather and reptile stamped by master Florentine artisan leather workers.
The inside of the box is in sole leather and carbon fibre. Personalized with the serial number of the automobile and the watch, the watch box is available in the colors of the automobile (8C Red – Alfa Red – Yellow – Black).
Other colors are available upon request.
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