Eberhard & Co. Chronographe 1887

On the occasion of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024, Swiss luxury watch brand Eberhard & Co. launched two new chronographs: “Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée”, in a limited edition of 250 pieces, and “Chronographe 1887 Automatique”.

Introduced in 2019, the Eberhard & Co. 1887 collection pays tribute to the founding date of the Swiss Maison and includes watches with exclusive calibres representing an unprecedented synthesis, in a contemporary key, of the Brand’s rich history and DNA.

The newly released “Chronographe 1887” chronographs are the result of an in-depth “journey in time” undertaken by the Maison, which led to intense research and study.

Each element characterising the chronographs, whether technical or aesthetic, was motivated by the desire to reinterpret in a new form the distinctive features of the chronographs that have made the history of the Brand, which has always been recognised for its innovative and original choices.

The exploration has focused on the study of original chronographs from the 1930s and beyond, preserved at the Eberhard & Co. Museum in La Chaux-de-Fonds. These historic timepieces constitute the guidelines for the “Chronographe 1887”, a true source of formal and technical inspiration.

A special role is played by the element of the Shield, which is also a central theme in the design of the Eberhard & Co. booth at the Geneva Salon. The emblem of the Bouclier Pointu, originally deposited as a poinçon de maîtres in 1892, is a strong symbol of authenticity, security and solidity and has been a crucial element in the Brand’s collections since the very beginning.

“Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée” (ref. 31081) is a hand-wound mechanical chronograph in a limited edition of 250 pieces, while “Chronographe 1887 Automatique” (ref. 31082) is a self-winding mechanical chronograph.

The two timepieces are powered by two exclusive calibres developed in collaboration with Manufacture AMT, EB 280 for reference 31081 and EB 380 for reference 31082, characterised by a high level of technical and aesthetic refinement.

The movements of both timepieces are equipped with a column wheel (“roue à colonnes”) and the fly-back complication, also known as “retour en vol”: a complication of chronograph mechanics that originated around the 1930s used by aviation pilots to time the various phases of flight.

For both chronographs, a sophisticated customisation work was carried out on the structure of the movement, with impressive technical and aesthetic results, which can be admired through the vitré caseback. A particularly noteworthy intervention is the creation of a special lever, which allows the chronograph reset button to be displaced coaxially to the crown.

From an aesthetical perspective, the “Chronographe 1887” echoes the unmistakable lines of the historical Eberhard & Co. chronographs.

This characterisation is manifested through distinctive details, such as the vintage-style crown (in steel and water-resistant), with a coaxial pusher personalised with the letter “E”, the steel case with its sinuous lines, or the choice of offering different details for the hands of each of the two counters.

The proposal of dials is extremely refined and sees the presence of the spiral tachymeter scale (in the centre) and telemetric scale. The combinations of colours, details, finishes and fine workmanship reflect the historical models and give the chronographs a special charm.

Description of customisation interventions on the movement

Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée Ref. 31081

• Creation of a special lever allowing the chronograph reset button to be displaced coaxially with the crown.
• Creation of an exclusive upper bridge of the chronograph gear-train with a personalised Shield shape (the Maison’s emblem) decorated with “Côtes de Genève” finishing, “1887” (the year the Maison was founded) engraved, and an engraved Shield enclosing an embossed “E”.
• All engravings are in the colour blue.
• On the movement plate, near the balance wheel, are engravings of the “EB 280” calibre designation and the Shield in 4N gold colour.

Chronographe 1887 Automatique Ref. 31082

• Creation of a lever allowing the chronograph reset button to be displaced coaxially with the crown.
• Personalised decoration of the oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” and “colimaçon papier” finishing, engraved Shield in 4N gold colour, “E” in blue.
• On the movement plate, close to the balance, are engravings of the calibre designation “EB 380” and the Shield in 4N gold colour.

Eberhard & Co. Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée, Reference 31081

Movement
Hand-wound mechanical chronograph
Calibre EB 280, AMT 5100 base with column wheel and flyback complication. Bleuie column wheel
A special lever enables the chronograph reset button to be displaced coaxially with the crown.
Upper bridge of the chronograph gear-train with exclusive Shield shape – emblem of E&Co. – with Côtes de Genève finish, personalised with the Maison’s foundation date and the Shield, engraved, “E” in relief.
All engravings are made in blue.
On the movement plate, near the balance, are engravings of the calibre designation “EB 280” and the Shield in 4N gold colour.
2 counters:
– 30 minutes at 3 o’clock
– small continuous seconds at 9 o’clock
Central chrono seconds hand

Case
Steel with polished and satin finish
Diameter: 41.50 mm
Thickness of the case: 13.90 mm
Lug width: 20 mm
Caseback: transparent sapphire glass, fixed by four screws; external part in polished steel, engraved
Bezel: polished steel
Crown: steel, vintage style, waterproof, with coaxial button
Glass: sapphire, domed, with anti-reflective treatment on the inside
Buttons: at 2 o’clock rectangular polished steel button for chronograph start/stop function; polished steel button coaxial to the crown, personalised with an embossed “E”, with chronograph reset and fly-back function
Water resistance: 50 m

Dials

• White coquille d’oeuf semi-matt with black, polished, embossed hour markers
• Semi-matt black with white, polished, relief hour markers
• Central area in bronze, obtained by a special metal deposition process, silvered perimeter band and counters; black, polished, embossed hour markers and Arabic numerals (12 and 6)

Telemetric and minute scales to 1/5th of a second; tachymeter scale in km/h, spiral, blue, at centre. Circular diamond engraving between the external scales.

Hands
Hours and minutes: Index conique type
Chronograph seconds: A fil, contrepoids ovale type
30 minutes counter: feuille losange type
Continuous small seconds counter: feuille losange, contrepoids rond type

Strap
Black alligator leather, steel buckle personalised with “E” Shield

Edition
Limited edition of 250 pieces

Eberhard & Co. Chronographe 1887 Automatique, Reference 31082

Movement
Self-winding mechanical chronograph
Calibre EB 380, AMT 5100 base with column wheel and fly-back complication.
Blued column wheel.
A special lever enables the chronograph reset button to be displaced coaxially to the crown. Oscillating weight with Côtes de Genève and colimaçon papier finishing.
Engraved Shield in 4N gold colour, blue “E”. On the movement plate, near the balance, are engravings of the calibre designation “EB 380″ and the Shield in 4N gold colour.
2 counters:
– 30 minutes at 3 o’clock
– small continuous seconds at 9 o’clock
Central chronograph seconds hand

Case
Steel with polished and satin finish
Diameter: 41.50 mm
Thickness: 14.40 mm
Lug width: 20 mm
Caseback: transparent sapphire glass, fixed by four screws; external part in polished steel, engraved
Bezel: polished steel
Water resistance: 50 m
Crown: steel, vintage style, waterproof, with coaxial button
Glass: sapphire, domed, with anti-reflective treatment on the inside
Chronographe 1887 Automatique
Buttons: at 2 o’clock rectangular polished steel button for chronograph start/stop function; polished steel button coaxial to the crown, personalised with an “E” in relief, for chronograph reset and fly-back function

Dials

• Polished white with matt white counters; black, polished, in relief Arabic numerals, “12” in blue; telemeter and minute scales to 1/5th of a second in black, tachymeter scale in km/h, spiral, blue, at centre.
• Polished black with matt black counters; white, polished, in relief Arabic numerals ; white telemetric and 1/5-second minute scales, tachymeter scale in km/h, spiral, at centre, argenté.
• Argenté with Clous de Paris finish, counters with azuré finish and diamonding on the outer part; nikel noir applied Roman numerals and rhomboidal hour markers; telemetric and minute scales to 1/5th of a blue with Clous de Paris finish, counters with azuré finish and diamonding on the outer part; rhodium-plated , applied Roman numerals and rhomboidal hour markers; telemetric and minute scales on 1/5th of a second.

Hands
Hours and minutes: index conique type
Chronograph seconds: a fil type, contrepoids ovale
30 minutes counter: feuille losange type
Continuous small seconds counter: feuille losange type, contrepoids rond

Strap
Alligator leather, steel buckle personalised with “E” Shield