DODANE 1857 TYPE 21 RE-EDITION

Founded in 1857 and now based in Besancon in France, DODANE 1857 is a specialist in chronometric instruments of navigation for military and civil aviation. In 2005, the company re-issued the TYPE 21, the famous chronograph watch provided to the pilots of French Airforce from the sixties.

DODANE 1857 TYPE 21 chronograph RE-EDITION

The TYPE 21 is the symbol of precision watchmaking craftsmanship in service to the armed forces. Full-fledged navigational instruments, these chronographs were designed on the basis of strict specifications from the Ministry of Defence.

DODANE 1857 TYPE 21 chronograph RE-EDITION

The technical qualities of the TYPE 21, combined with its reliability, have made it a truly renowned timepiece. The distinctive features of the watch provide a refined, authentic style, perfectly preserving the line and personality of the original watch that was the pride of generations of pilots. This personalized limited edition is assembled in the Swiss Jura region, respecting age-old watchmaking traditions.

DODANE 1857 TYPE 21 chronograph RE-EDITION

Military watches have a history; they reflect intensive efforts in the quest for precision and authenticity. The watch actually had to compensate for onboard instrument failure by acting as a navigational instrument for the pilot. While conserving their precision, these chronographs already withstood extreme constraints in terms of acceleration, vibration, temperature variations and resistance to magnetic effects.

By official command from the French General Staff, the House of Dodane developed the Type 21 in the 1950’s. The “fly-back” function was the principal requirement in the stringent specifications then set out for the chronograph by the Ministry of Defence.

DODANE TYPE 21

The “fly-back “function enables the user to set the stopwatch to zero and then to restart immediately the chronograph function. The Air Force has imposed this condition as it was vital for pilots when they would fly over a beacon or when they had to land relying on the time given by the control tower.

LAURENT DODANE TYPE 21

Among other requirements from the French National Defence’s specifications: an autonomy of over 35 hours, a maximum time difference of 8 seconds per any 24 hours. The difference was reduced to 0.2 seconds per minute and 0.5 seconds per half hour for chronometers. Besides, the chronograph was supposed to operate at least 300 starts, stops and zero-setting in a row.

Already used by the Air Force and other corps, the Type 21 was supplied to NATO forces involved in sensitive missions. In the 1990’s, Dodane Type 21 chronographs continued to wield their talent in Army light aviation.

DODANE 1857 TYPE 21 chronograph RE-EDITION

Launched in 2005, the new Type 21 chronograph was designed as homage to the original TYPE 21 of 1956 based on the basis of specifications from the Ministry of Defence. This modern incarnation features upgraded movement, enhanced water resistance, better accuracy and superb finishing.

DODANE 1857 TYPE 21 chronograph RE-EDITION

For their products, Dodane 1857 incorporates manufacturing standards of the Swiss made label. They design, develop and control the timepieces within their company in Besancon and sub-contract the manufacture and the assembly with a great company specialized in watches complications which work with most of famous Swiss watches brand manufacturers.

DODANE 1857 TYPE 21 chronograph RE-EDITION movementThe movement which powers the TYPE 21 reissue is Dubois-Dépraz 42021 on a basis of an ETA 2892-A2. Dubois-Depraz is an independent Swiss company, specialized in the complications movements making intended to be integrated on a great number of prestigious brands models. The movement is equipped with the Incabloc system and shockproof.

The calibre ETA 2892A2 is used as a basis of engine and drive control, on which the watchmakers add a chronometric module and Flyback function. This high precision base movement manufactured by ETA beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour. The movement, the ETA base + Module stopwatch flyback, completely is assembled and set within the Dubois-Depraz company.

DODANE 1857 TYPE 21 chronograph RE-EDITIONThe Flyback complication which Dubois-Depraz carries out is rare because it’s complex to develop and DD has an exceptional know-how. The movement features “Côte de Genève” decoration with the gilt engraving of the brand and the Bottom plate and bridges decorated.

DODANE 1857 TYPE 21 chronograph RE-EDITION

The brand has also paid a detailed attention to the sealing of the watch which is of 10 bars (100m) in order to arrive at the highest standards in term of sealing.

The customers can choose the standard model or the Chronometer version with “chronometric instrument” certificate by the “National Observatory of Time Measurement” in Besancon, an independent academic verification agency. Additional charges required for chronometer certification.

DODANE 1857 TYPE 21 chronograph RE-EDITION

Measuring 41.50 mm diameter and 13.70 mm thickness, the stainless steel (316L) case of the watch ensures the antimagnetic safety for the parts of movement.

DODANE 1857 TYPE 21 chronograph RE-EDITION

The leather strap of the chronograph is in black colour in order to respect the original type 21 Ministry of Defence specifications.

DODANE 1857 TYPE 21 chronograph RE-EDITION

The stainless steel bracelet of the Type 21 was made in France by a French band manufacturer. Its complete plain 316 L, solid stainless steel links made by CNC (Numerically controlled Machines) and fixed by special hardened pins (it’s not stamped links).

The hands are made in Besançon and the dials are made in Switzerland.

DODANE 1857 TYPE 21 chronograph RE-EDITION

The Type 21 is a very high-precision chronograph. It is equipped with a special mechanism called “fly-back” enabling to measure pre-set time with continuous or interrupted operations.

This function enables to start, stop and restart the central hand telling seconds divided to the 5th as well as the hands telling minutes and hours.

DODANE 1857 TYPE 21 chronograph RE-EDITION

The chronometer’s Start function is set by pushing the first push-button A. With a second push on this button, the central hand is stopped. A third push on the same button re-starts the chronometer hand. This enables to stop a time measurement and re-start it at the stop mark.

Zero-setting function of seconds, minutes and hours is obtained by pushing the second push-button B.

The Fly-back device allows it to be instantly reset during the chronograph’s operation by pressing the second button (B), without having to first stop the operation with the first button (A). When pressure is maintained on the second button, the hand stays at zero and only starts again when pressure is released.

The device enables an aircraft pilot or ship’s captain to follow instructions and change headings according to a predefined course. Once a sequence has elapsed, pressure on the button launches the following sequence.

The rotating bezel completes the sums of minutes and hours by acting as a countdown timer. For a four hour flight, the pilot enters the number 4 opposite the hour hand of the main dial, and starts the chronograph: when the hour hand is opposite the luminous 0 mark, the four hours have elapsed.

The tachometer measurement enables to know the plane speed when taking off on a short runway. As a matter of fact, if the pilot has not reached the sufficient acceleration to take off regarding a pre-set distance, he or she will choose to reverse the engine push in order to try to take off again safely.

Technical details

Case
316 L stainless steel case (Also available in black PVD version)
Diameter: 41.50 mm
Thickness: 13.70 mm
Unidirectional rotating bezel with anti-clockwise return pawl
Sapphire Upper Glass and Hardened Glass case-back
Water-resistant 100 meters (10 bars)

Dial
Three Chronographs totalisators (hour, minute, second) to the 1/5th of second
Superluminova Hands and figures luminescent

Movement
57 jewels Automatic chronograph movement 42021 Dubois Depraz Swiss-made Chronometric assortment
Bidirectional winding ball-bearing central rotor
Flyback function
42 hours of power reserve
Finishing: «Cote de Genève» finishing on winding mechanism, polished-surfacing with chamfered bridges, blues screws, Bridge rhodium finishing, Colimaçon decoration on Barrel

Strap
Leather strap or Stainless steel bracelet with double claps opening

Retail price*
4000 Euros (*Approximate price as on Apr 2019)
450 Euros extra for chronometer certification
Personalization is available (Additional charges apply)

BREITLING Montbrillant Olympus

For Breitling, the name Montbrillant refers to chronographs endowed with a wealth of tradition and exclusive features. One such model is the Montbrillant Olympus, a chronograph inspired by the finest products made by the brand in the course of its history. The beaded bezel, for example, is a faithful reproduction of the first chronographs equipped with a slide rule.

Breitling Montbrillant Olympus Automatic chronograph

In the same spirit, the two-tone dial clearly distinguishes the timekeeping zone from the logarithmic scales. On the back of the watch is a medallion depicting the factory built by Léon Breitling in 1892 on Montbrillant Street, in the watchmaking town of La Chaux-de- Fonds. Yet it is the mechanism of the Montbrillant Olympus that best reflects Breitling’s strong attachment to tradition.

Breitling Montbrillant Olympus Automatic chronograph caseback

Caliber 19 is a highly complex movement, made up of almost 250 components, enabling not only the measurement of short times, but also the simultaneous indication of the date, the day, the month and the moon-phases. The mechanism is programmed to provide this information without any need for adjustments throughout a complete leap-year cycle, meaning four years.

Breitling Montbrillant Olympus Automatic chronograph

Technical details

Movement: Mechanical self-winding Breitling Caliber 19, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, high frequency (28,800 vibrations per hour), 38 jewels. 1/4th of a second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers. Leap-year calendar with indication of the date, day, month and moon-phases.

Case: steel, 18K rose gold (limited series). Resistant to 3 bars. Rotating bezel with circular slide rule. Domed sapphire crystal, glareproofed both sides. Diameter: 42.10 mm.

Strap/bracelet: Barenia leather, crocodile leather/Navitimer.

Blancpain Apotheosis Temporis – Limited Edition Set with 8 Timepieces – Ultra Slim, Time Zone, Moon Phase Calendar, Perpetual Calendar with Correctors Hidden under the Lugs, Single Push-button Chronograph with Split-seconds, Tourbillon, Equation Marchante Pure and Minute Repeater

In 2005, as part of its celebration of the 270th Anniversary of its founding, Blancpain unveiled a limited edition set, the Apotheosis Temporis.

Inspired by the Six Masterpieces released nearly two decades earlier, the Apotheosis Temporis Set incorporated all of the classic complications from the Six Masterpieces and added two more Blancpain signature complications: a dual time zone watch and a running equation of time perpetual calendar watch.

The equation of time addition is particularly significant as it represents a world first achieved by Blancpain a year earlier when it debuted the first wristwatch ever to incorporate this complex mechanism. Further underscoring its complication prowess, Blancpain endowed the entire Apotheosis Temporis collection with automatic winding.

Villeret Equation Marchante Pure “Apotheosis Temporis”, (Ref. 6038A-3430-55B)

All eight pieces in the set – Ultra Slim, Time Zone, Moon Phase Calendar, Perpetual Calendar with Correctors Hidden under the Lugs, Single Push-button Chronograph with Split-seconds, Tourbillon, Equation Marchante Pure and Minute Repeater – were turned out in platinum, with special black dials reserved for the collection, and featured winding rotors unique to the set.

The Blancpain APOTHEOSIS TEMPORIS Set consists of platinum versions following watch models:-

  • Ultraplate (Ultra Slim)
  • Time Zone
  • Quantième à Phases de Lune (Moon Phase Calendar)
  • Quantième Perpétuel avec Correcteurs sous cornes (Perpetual Calendar with Correctors Hidden under the Lugs)
  • Chronographe Monopoussoir à Rattrapante (Single Push-button Chronograph with Split-seconds)
  • Tourbillon
  • Equation Marchante Pure (Equation of Time)
  • Répétition Minutes (Minute Repeater)
Done in the Villeret Collection style, this limited edition, which sold out immediately, featured a custom eight-rotor winding box to house the collection.

The cases of the eight creations making up the Blancpain Apotheosis Temporis set feature 950 platinum cases and house a subtle matt black dial with white gold applied hour-markers.

Water-resistant to 30 metres (apart from the Minute Repeater), these cases have a diameter of 38 mm and are fitted with a sapphire crystal that is glare-proofed both sides and a sapphire case-back with anti-glare treatment on the inside.

The sapphire crystal case-back allows to admire the view of movement decorations (“Côtes de Genève”, circular graining, bevelling, polishing and engraving) entirely performed by hand, like all Blancpain movements, in keeping with the noblest traditions of Haute Horlogerie. The eight timepieces also feature a platinum oscillating weight made exclusively for the Apotheosis Temporis.

Constituting an objet d’art in its own right, a splendid lacquered wooden piece of furniture with an exquisitely marquetry-worked Macassar ebony cabinet has been lovingly crafted by a skilled artisan to host the eight Apotheosis Temporis models. This precious work of art features storage areas for the eight complications equipped with a rotating motor to ensure continuous winding of the watches.

BREITLING for Bentley Mulliner Tourbillon Chronograph

Launched in 2005, the BREITLING for Bentley Mulliner Tourbillon Chronograph is an extraordinary timepiece that embodies a blend of technology and tradition.The Mulliner Tourbillon chronograph is also a rare and indeed extremely rare model, since only a few pieces made each year.

Behind the closed doors of the prestigious Mulliner workshop at the Bentley factory in Crewe, a hundred or so craftsmen and technicians lavish the utmost care on fulfilling the most specific wishes of Bentley owners.

BREITLING for Bentley Mulliner Tourbillon Chronograph

While exclusivity comes at a price, it also brings its share of privileges, since each Mulliner Tourbillon is customized by its future owner. According to his personal preferences, he can choose the type of case – in platinum or in yellow, rose or white gold – the dial colour or the exact shade of the crocodile leather strap. Even the precious wood decoration on the back of the watch comes in a choice of six types of veneer.
BREITLING for Bentley Mulliner Tourbillon ChronographThis masterpiece also has an exceptional heart in the shape of hand-wound Breitling Caliber 18B, a Tourbillon chronograph movement exclusive to “ Breitling for Bentley ”. The tourbillon is a sophisticated mechanism constituting one of the most ingenious mechanical watch complications: the balance, balance-spring and escapement are contained within a carriage spinning on its axis, a construction which compensates for the variations in rate that occur when a watch is in a vertical position.

This is not the only special feature of this mechanism: its “30-second ” type chronograph mechanism is distinguished by its central hand revolving around the dial in half a minute instead of the usual 60 seconds; this apparently surprising configuration enables extremely precise read-off for the fractions of a second, in this case 1/6ths. It is also endowed with a 15-minute totalizer and a pointer-type date display.

BREITLING for Bentley Mulliner Tourbillon ChronographEach automobile that emerges from the Mulliner workshops is unique… and such is also true of each Mulliner Tourbillon, thus guaranteeing its owner the certainty that he will never see an identical watch. Each hour-marker on the dial is fashioned from natural hand-crafted mother-of-pearl.

Both literally and figuratively, each Mulliner Tourbillon carries the hallmark of its owner, including his initials engraved on one of the movement bridges. Protected by a sapphire crystal, the precious wooden ring is available in the same shades and veneers as the Bentley Mulliner trim: burr walnut, dark stained burr walnut, madrona, birds eye maple, burr oak, olive ash.
BREITLING for Bentley Mulliner Tourbillon ChronographThe countless ways of personalising a Mulliner Tourbillon chronograph are directly inspired by those offered by the Bentley Mulliner workshops in Crewe.

Technical details

Model: Mulliner Tourbillon chronograph

Movement 
Mechanical hand-wound Breitling Caliber 18M, Tourbillon regulating system, COSC-certified chronometer

Functions 
Hours, minutes, seconds, pointer-type date display, 30-second chronograph functions with hand sweeping the dial in half a minute (providing 1/6th of a second display), 15-minute totalizer, rotation pinion bezel with variable tachometer (circular slide rule)

Case 
Platinum, 750 (18K) yellow, rose or white gold
Domed antiglare sapphire crystal
Back with precious wood surround in a choice of six veneers to match those
used by Bentley
Water-resistant to 100 m

Dial 
A choice of colour, hand-cut mother-of-pearl hour markers

Bracelet/Strap 
Crocodile strap (in a choice of colours) or metal bracelet

Rolex Cellini Prince Collection, Edition 2005 – The Rolex Watch with Sapphire Crystal Case Back

It is almost impossible to find an original Rolex watch with a transparent crystal (sapphire or mineral) case-back. In general, all flagship watch models from the legendary Swiss watch manufacture feature solid metal case back whereas other luxury watch brands provide sapphire crystal case back for their watches so that the owner can admire the beauty of mechanical movement beating inside.

Many people believe that Rolex never produced watches with  transparent glass case back. But it is not the truth. To confirm this,  let us go through the details of a watch model named Cellini Prince.

Introduced in 2005, the Cellini Prince watch features an in house fitted sapphire crystal case back.

Origins of this watch can be traced back to roaring 20s. In 1928, Rolex created the Prince, which achieved great success and earned a place in horological history for its chronometric precision.  This Art Deco inspired rectangular timepiece was a popular dress watch during its time. However, Rolex ceased the production of  Prince watch models in the late 1940s.

With its avant-garde rectangular shape and the outstanding performance of its movement, the Prince is a watch of distinction. The unique positioning of the hands on two separate counters, one for hours and minutes and the other for seconds, was patented by Rolex. In 2005, Rolex re-launched the Prince watch collection in four different models with in the Cellini collection.

The Rolex Prince collection reflects the art of watchmaking at its best as much as design in its purest sense. It is both a precise mechanical instrument and an achievement in aesthetics. It exemplifies aesthetic consistency among the movement, case and dial. Born of a team effort bringing together Rolex’s world-class designers and technical experts specialising in the movement, case and dial, it meets the demands of exquisite beauty and optimal performance.

Rolex Cellini Prince Collection, Edition 2005 - The Rolex Watch with Sapphire Crystal Case BackUnfortunately, in 2015, production of the Cellini Prince watch was ceased by Rolex. The new generation models available in the market belong to the Cellini Prince collection introduced in 2005 and produced till 2015.

This Prince watch introduced in 2005 houses a manual-wound mechanical movement – the 7040 calibre – specially developed and manufactured by Rolex. Rectangular in shape, it uses all the space to ensure precision and performance and to give free rein to the decoration of the bridges with designs identical to those on the dial. The movement is equipped with a new shock-absorbing bearing, the Paraflex, an essential component for the reliability of the product. COSC-certified as a Swiss chronometer, it features a 72-hour power reserve.
Rolex Cellini Prince Collection, Edition 2005 - The Rolex Watch with Sapphire Crystal Case Back
On the dial, hours and minutes are displayed separately above the seconds. The guilloche decoration on each timepiece requires high technology and a redefinition of the art of watch decoration. Guilloche decoration is an art and will always remain an art. The various patterns – “godron”, “clou de Paris” and “rayon flammé de la gloire” – each give the dial a unique look.
Rolex Cellini Prince Collection, Edition 2005 - The Rolex Watch with Sapphire Crystal Case BackCrafted from gold (Models available in 18 ct yellow, white or Everose gold), the rectangular shaped case looks like a fuselage. For the first time, a Rolex movement is on show. A transparent caseback reveals a guilloche decoration on the movement echoing that on the dial. The leather strap has been fitted with a gold butterfly clasp, giving the watch perfect balance.
Rolex Cellini Prince Collection, Edition 2005 - The Rolex Watch with Sapphire Crystal Case Back
Featured Models

  • The Rolex Prince Ref. 5441/9: In 18 ct white gold features a silver “godron” dial, two displays, Roman numerals and simple markings.
  • The Rolex Prince Ref. 5440/8 : In 18 ct yellow gold features a champagne “clou de Paris” dial, two displays, Roman numerals on the hours and minutes display and Arabic numerals on the seconds display.
  • The Rolex Prince Ref. 5442/5: In 18 ct Everose gold features a black and pink “rayon flammé de la gloire” dial, and Arabic numerals on both displays which join in the centre.
  • The Rolex Prince Ref. 5443/9: In 18 ct white gold features a black and silver “rayon flammé de la gloire” dial, two displays, Arabic numerals, simple markings and red minute markings.

Technical details

  • Movement: Calibre 7040, Mechanical, manually wound
  • Power reserve: 72 hours
  • Oscillator Frequency : 4 Hz (28,800 beats/hour), hairspring with a Breguet overcoil
  • Chronometer COSC certification
  • Style: Rectangular
  • Materials: 18 ct yellow gold, white or Everose gold
  • Bracelet: Leather strap with 18 ct gold butterfly clasp

deLacour Calibre bi-tourbillon

Introduced by deLacour in 2005, this Grande Complication watch, each of which is unique, was developed in association with world renowned watchmaker Christophe Claret. This mechanism represents a genuine technical feat and incorporates two world premières. In addition to its flying bi-tourbillon mechanisms, this watch features an original dual time-zone display, a moon-phase indication, as well as an exclusive module that sends a shooting star gliding swiftly over the moonphase.

deLacour Calibre bi-tourbillon

Technical details
Movement
Mechanical, DC Calibre 297, shaped plate, 40 x 33 mm
Flying bi-tourbillons (one turning to the left, the other to the right), driven by a differential gearing system, 21’600 vph, central ball-bearing mechanism, 78 jewels
Personalised motifs

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT (with instant date jump device), moon phase,
100-hour power reserve

Case
750 (18K) gold or platinum
Sapphire crystal and back

Dial
750 (18K) gold or platinum
2 gold cartouches”with built-in loupes for the hours
Seconds on the tourbillons at 5 and 7 o’clock
Moon phase at 12 o’clock
“Shooting star” passing by the moon-phase display every 6 minutes

Strap
Hand-sewn crocodile leather

Blancpain Villeret Ladies’ Perpetual Calendar with Calibre 5621 – The World’s Thinnest Perpetual Calendar

Introduced in 2006, the Blancpain Villeret Ladies’ Ultra Slim Perpetual Calendar is the thinnest perpetual calendar wristwatch ever made.

The creation of a complicated women’s watch presents a peculiar challenge. Virtually all wristwatch complications were conceived and the traditional design approaches developed in the setting of pocket watches.

Many collectors today take for granted the enormous barriers confronted and crossed by master watchmakers who have taken complications imagined in the relatively large scale of a pocket watch and transformed them to exist in the diminutive space of a wristwatch. Imagine then the new difficulties of going even further down the scale of miniaturization to adapt complicated movements to the further reduced size of a women’s watch.

Blancpain Villeret Ladies’ Ultra Slim Perpetual Calendar (reference 6156-1542-55)

The perpetual calendar is perhaps the most useful of all complications. Collectors the world over aspire to owning such a calendar that always shows the correct date, precisely accounting for the vexing differences in the length of months, including leap years, introduced by Julius Caesar and modified by Pope Gregory XIII for our modern calendar.

Blancpain’s master watchmakers have taken this most practical of complications and brought it into the world of ladies’ watch dimensions. In so doing they have not only righted an industry tendency to deprive women of a core complication, but they have also achieved a world record in the process: the world’s thinnest perpetual calendar watch.

Equipped with the Blancpain Calibre 5621 hand-wound mechanical movement, this Perpetual Calendar watch for women indicates the day date, month and moon phases.

Made of 18 carat white gold, the Blancpain Villeret Ladies’ Ultra Slim Perpetual Calendar watch (reference 6156-1542-55) has a case diameter of 34mm and thickness of 6.76 mm. Fitted with sapphire crystals on front and back sides of the case, the watch offers a water resistance of 30 meters.

The manual-winding mechanical movement is capable of providing 40-hour power reserve once fully wound. Boasting an Opaline dial, the Blancpain Villeret Ladies’ Ultra Slim Perpetual Calendar watch was a limited edition of 20 pieces.

Vacheron Constantin Saint-Gervais Grande Complication Watch

A tribute to the Cabinotiers established in the historical Saint-Gervais district, the cradle of grand traditional Geneva watchmaking, this creation perpetuates the enlightened and innovative approach adopted by the pioneers of which Vacheron Constantin is a direct descendant. Close to the brand’s historical headquarters located “En l’Ile” on the banks of the Rhône river, from the mid-18th onwards the Saint-Gervais district was home to the watchmakers and craftsmen working under the rooftops in order to find the silence they required and to enjoy the best possible light.
Vacheron Constantin Saint-Gervais Grande Complication WatchTogether, they constituted the prestigious Geneva “fabrique”. The Saint-Gervais commemorative series is a sparkling homage, 250 years later, to this fertile breeding ground and to the skilled craftsmen mastering the subtle gear-trains and the complicated mechanisms on which Vacheron Constantin has built its reputation. This exceptional creation serves to prove that their descendants are still worthy of their legacy and would not disappoint them in any way.
Vacheron Constantin Saint-Gervais Grande Complication WatchThe various functions clothed in the 44 mm case in 950 platinum call for 410 parts driving the hour and minute displays, small seconds at 6 o’clock, along with a tourbillon device. Calibre 2250 also incorporates a perpetual calendar indicating the day, the date, the month and the leap year. The movement is powered by four barrels, stacked in pairs and providing a total power reserve of 250 hours: the reserve is visible on the dial by double 125-hour segment indications, each winding down in turn. The power-reserve mechanism driven by the four barrels is patented.
Vacheron Constantin Saint-Gervais Grande Complication WatchThe ethereal, finely worked and extremely precise tourbillon is a classic, revolving once a minute. It is positioned at 6 o’clock in the traditional small seconds position. Optimised by the design-engineers of the brand’s Research / Development department based in Le Sentier (Vallée de Joux), the perpetual calendar displays its indications using the blued hands of the three day, month and date subdials respectively placed at 10, 12 and 2 o’clock. The discreet leap-year display appears through an aperture at 1 o’clock.
Vacheron Constantin Saint-Gervais Grande Complication WatchIn addition to the gold hour and minute hands, two additional blued steel hands can be seen running over the silvered dial in engine-turned gold, each sweeping across a segment at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock. Their function is completely original, since they each indicate the power-reserve of barrels, which successively wind down one after the other.

Its four barrels provide a real and guaranteed power reserve of 250 hours, guaranteeing the smooth and undiminished operation of the movement and the functions. The development department has thus pushed existing limits and set the standard higher than ever before, especially in light of the fact that a comfortable additional margin guarantees that optimal efficiency has been duly verified. Nonetheless, for symbolic reasons, the brand has preferred to officially keep to 250 hours, the natural choice for this anniversary year.

As in all Vacheron Constantin watches, the high level of technical sophistication detracts nothing from the most accomplished forms of aesthetic expression. All the movement parts have thus been treated and decorated with meticulous care and in accordance with the uncompromising criteria of the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. The Saint-Gervais model is made in a limited series of 55.

Technical details

Movement
Calibre 2250 – 410 parts – 4 barrels providing a 250-hour power reserve
Energy: Mechanical, hand-winding
Regulating organs: Breguet overcoil balance-spring, balance with screws
Frequency: 2.5Hz (18,000 vph)
Power reserve: 250 hours
Jewelling: 33 jewels

Indications & functions :-
Hours and minutes
Seconds at 6 o’clock
“Tourbillon” device
Independent double power reserve
Perpetual calendar: Day, date, month and leap years

Other characteristics:-
Winding stem: 2 positions
Perpetual calendar adjustment: using 3 correctors housed along the case

Main dimensions:-
Caging diameter:28.50mm
Total diameter: 32.0mm
Total thickness:8.60mm

Case
Material: 950 platinum
Diameter and thickness: 44mm, 14.6 mm
Inter-horn width: 22mm at the strap attachment
Shape and construction: round 3 parts, screw-on bezel
Case-back: secured with screws, with inset crystal
Crystals: sapphire, glareproofed on the inner face, mounted on a joint
Finishing: polished case, fine knurling on the bezel and case-back “250th anniversary” type soldered lugs
Water-resistant to 30 metres.

Dial
Material: 18-carat gold
Light silvered finishing, hand-guilloché “ 250th anniversary” motif, 18-carat gold appliques
Hours and minutes hands in rhodium-finished 18-carat gold, fan-shaped, inspired by a 1926 vintage model
Seconds hand in rhodium-finished 18-carat gold, baton-shaped, on tourbillon carriage
Subdials in flame-blued steel, dagger-shaped

Strap
Hand-sewn alligator leather with a silky satin finish
Clasp: Folding clasp, 18-carat gold

Edition
“Saint-Gervais” is a limited edition of 55, crafted in 950 platinum and each individually numbered.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 4936

In 2005, Patek Philippe launched a ladies’ version of its famous Annual Calendar watch. This feminine model in 18K gold (Ref. 4936) features a mother-of-pearl dial and diamond-studded case.

Introduced in 1996, the first Patek Philippe Annual Calendar watch (Ref. 5035) was originally designed for men. Featuring a 37mm case and a patented movement, it was preferred by women, thanks to its functionality, convenience and handsome proportions.

In 2005, to address women’s increasing interest in mechanical masterpieces, Patek Philippe developed this complication watch. It was released along with Ref. 5146, an evolution of men’s annual calendar watch.

The Ref. 4936 features a 37 mm case, the same as the Ref. 5035 Annual Calendar watch introduced in 1996.

Patek Philippe Ladies' Annual Calendar Watch Ref. 4936

Available in 18K yellow or white gold, the bezel of the Ref. 4936 is set with 156 flawless rare white Top Wesselton diamonds. Two different-sized diamonds are perfectly aligned, requiring the extraordinary skills of the master jeweler.

The dials of this Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ladies watch are crafted from authentic mother-of-pearl – white for the yellow gold case and black Tahitian mother-of-pearl for the white gold model.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 4936

The subsidiary dials for the day of the week and month are also made of genuine mother-of-pearl encircled by gold rings for extra sparkle. Time is indicated with applied gold Roman numerals and luminescent, gold feuille (leaf-shaped) hands.

The phases of the moon are shown in a crescent window above the date aperture at 6o’clock. The crown glistens with 14 diamonds set within its perimeter for a smooth finish so it is comfortable against the wrist. The hand-stitched alligator strap closes with an 18K gold buckle in two tones: matte champagne for yellow gold and luminous gray with white gold.

The self-winding movement can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back; like all mechanical movements crafted by Patek Philippe, it is marked with the coveted Geneva Seal.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Ref. 4936 J/G

Movement
Caliber 315 S QA LU
Self-winding mechanical movement, Annual Calendar, moon-phase display and sweep seconds
Diameter: 30 mm
Height: 5.22 mm
Number of parts: 328
Number of jewels: 34
Power reserve: Min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
Rotor: 21K gold central rotor, unidirectional winding
Balance: Gyromax
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour
Balance spring: Flat

Two-position crown
– Pulled out: to set time
– Pushed in: to wind watch

Displays
Hours, minutes, sweep seconds
Subsidiary dials:
– Days between 9 and 10 o’clock, months between 2 and 3 o’clock
Apertures:
– Moon phase at 6 o’clock
– Date at 6 o’clock

Corrector button
At 10 o’clock: day-of-week correction
At 2 o’clock: month correction
At 4 o’clock: date and month correction
At 8 o’clock: moon-phase correction

Hallmark
Geneva Seal

Case
18K yellow or white gold
Diameter: 37 mm
Thickness: 11.30 mm
Width between lugs: 19 mm
Screwed sapphire-crystal case back and water-resistant crown
Water resistant to 25 meters

Dial
White mother-of-pearl for yellow gold model
Black Tahitian mother-of-pearl for white gold model
Eleven applied Roman numerals with luminescent coating, railway-track minute scale
Feuille (leaf-shaped) hands in 18K yellow or white gold with luminescent coating (Superluminova)

Subsidiary dials
Recessed with circular guilloche pattern encircled by ring in 18K yellow or white gold
Frosted feuille (leaf-shaped) hands in 18K yellow or white gold

Strap
Hand-stitched alligator, with 14 mm prong buckle in 18K yellow or white gold. Matte champagne strap for yellow gold model and glossy gray for white gold model

Precious stones

Case: 78 flawless rare white Top Wesselton round diamonds, full cut, 1.10mm in diameter and 78 flawless rare white Top Wesselton round diamonds, full cut, 1.20 mm in diameter totaling about 0.87 carats

Crown: 18K rose or white gold, set with 14 flawless rare white Top Wesselton round diamonds, full cut, 1.10 mm in diameter totaling about 0.07carats

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5146

An evolution of the original men’s Patek Philippe Annual Calendar watch, Ref. 5146 was released in 2005 to fulfill the growing demand for slightly larger watches. This reference replaced Ref. 5035, the 37mm model first introduced in 1996.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5146 white gold models

Its 39 mm case gives it a stronger presence with a balanced and contemporary face. The larger scale provides more space for the added functions and assures better readability of the dials – the day-of-week display between 9 and 10 o’clock, month display between 2 and 3 o’clock, power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, and date aperture at 6o’clock crowned by the crescent-shaped moonphase window.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5146 white gold case back

A sapphire-crystal case back reveals the Patek Philippe caliber 315 movement which consists of 355 parts and was developed, crafted and assembled to the strict standards of the Geneva Seal.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5146 yellow gold models

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5146 is available in 18K yellow and white gold and versions. Both variants offer two dial designs for four distinct looks.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5146 white gold model with laquered cream dial

The elegant cream dial has a rich intensity. The lacquering, firing, and polishing processes alone require 12 separate steps. The recessed subsidiary dials with their circular guilloche patterns enhance the sense of depth while the sunburst slate dial creates a subtle play of light.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5146 white gold model with sunburst grey dial

The hours are indicated with three Arabic numerals and applied indexes as well as luminescent, gold feuille (leaf-shaped) hands.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5146 yellow gol

The brown, hand-stitched alligator strap is fitted with an innovative 18K yellow or white fold-over clasp that resembles the traditional Patek Philippe pin buckle.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5146J yellow gold watch

About Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Watches

Launched in 1996, the Annual Calendar – an exclusive Patek Philippe patent – was the first wristwatch to automatically display the month, day of the week, and date regardless of the length of the month (30 or 31 days). The watch requires correcting just once a year, at the end of February.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Watches

For this complication, Patek Philippe’s engineers had invented a totally new design for the movement to essentially eliminate the need for levers and use wheels and pinions instead.

Not surprisingly, the Annual Calendar movement with the moon-phase display consists of 330 parts while other Patek Philippe watches with perpetual calendars and moon-phase displays comprise 275. All calendar displays can be quickly and conveniently adjusted via correctors on the side of the case.

An enormously successful timepiece, the Patek Philippe Ref. 5035 Annual Calendar was rated “Watch of the Year 1996” soon after its debut. The power-reserve indicator, another useful complication, was added in 1998.

Along with its poetic merits, the moon-phase mechanism was lauded for its high precision as it deviates from the true lunar cycle by only one day in 122 years. The tonneau-shaped Gondolo Calendario, introduced in 2004, has an enhanced version of the Annual Calendar mechanism. Launched in 2005, Ref. 5146 is the replacement of Ref. 5035.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5146 J/G

Movement
Caliber 315 S IRM QA LU
Self-winding mechanical movement, Annual Calendar, moon phase, power-reserve indicator and sweep seconds
Diameter: 30 mm
Height: 5.22 mm
Number of parts: 355
Number of jewels: 36
Power reserve: Min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
Rotor: 21K gold central rotor, unidirectional winding
Balance: Gyromax
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour
Balance spring: Flat

Two-position crown:
– Pulled out: to set time
– Pushed in: to wind watch

Displays
Hours, minutes, sweep seconds, power-reserve indicator
Subsidiary dials:
– Days between 9 and 10 o’clock, months between 2 and 3 o’clock

Apertures:
– Moon phase at 6 o’clock
– Date at 6 o’clock

Corrector buttons
– At 10 o’clock: day-of-week correction
– At 2 o’clock: month correction
– At 4 o’clock: date and month correction
– At 8 o’clock: moon-phase correction

Hallmark
Geneva Seal

Case
18K yellow or white gold
Screwed sapphire-crystal case back and water resistant crown
Water resistant to 25 meters
Diameter: 39 mm
Thickness: 11.20 mm
Width between lugs: 20 mm

Dial
Lacquered cream or Sunburst slate gray
Three Arabic numerals at 9, 12 and 3 o’clock
Applied baton-style index in 18K yellow or white gold
Railway-track minute scale featuring pearl-drop hour markers with luminescent coating (Superluminova)
Feuille (leaf-shaped) hands in 18K yellow or white gold with luminescent coating (Superluminova)
Subsidiary dials: recessed, circular guilloche pattern and frosted feuille(leaf-shaped) hands in 18K yellow or white gold

Strap
Hand-stitched brown alligator, with fold-over clasp in 18K yellow or white gold

Chronoswiss Digiteur MSA (Montre sans Aiguilles)

Introduced in 2005, this rectangular wristwatch from Chronoswiss  admirably expresses Gerd-Rüdiger Lang’s passion for traditional values. The watch is powered with a modified and finely reworked Caliber FEF 130 mechanical movement.

As the name “Digiteur” implies, the type of time display recalls an important epoch in wristwatch history. Printed disks rotate to indicate the hours, minutes, and seconds. The hours disk jumps one increment further along after each 60-minute interval has elapsed; the other two disks rotate continuously. To support this digital display, Chronoswiss developed a unique mechanism, which is mounted on the front side of the clockwork.
Chronoswiss Digiteur MSA (Montre sans Aiguilles)Beating inside this watch is the 7: x 11-ligne Caliber FEF 130 (length = 25.6 mm, width = 17.5 mm) from Fleurier, the movement-blank specialist that was founded by Jules Jéquier and David-Louis Petitpierre in the Swiss town of Fleurier, Val de Travers in 1882.

After Petitpierre left the firm in 1888, Jéquier and his sons continued to manufacture mechanical timepieces without him. Their movement-blank division achieved independence under the name “Fabrique d’ebauches de Fleurier (FEF)” in 1920, but was soon incorporated into the powerful Ebauches SA movement-blank holding company in 1932.

This enterprise continued to produce hand-wound movements in various designs until 1979, when the “Quartz Watch Revolution” put an untimely end to FEF. Movement-blanks from Val de Travers have been nothing but history ever since.
Chronoswiss Digiteur MSA watch movement Caliber FEF 130
After thirty years in production, the final hour for the FEF 130 shaped caliber had already tolled in 1963, when round wristwatches dominated the market. During the three previous decades, FEF had manufactured this caliber with either centrally axial or off-center seconds-hands. The calibers found their way into rectangular wristwatches made by numerous renowned watch producers.

After production of the calibers was discontinued, a small number of specimens naturally remained in stock in order to ensure that spare parts would be available in the future. Gerd-Rüdiger Lang is fanatically devoted to mechanical timepieces, so it comes as no surprise to learn that he discovered this treasure-trove and acquired its “shapely” contents for Chronoswiss, his Munich-based watchmaking company.

Long before quartz watches with their LED or LC displays raised a relatively short-lived ruckus in the world of timekeeping, the watch industry had already developed mechanical timepieces that digitally indicated the hours, minutes, and seconds by means of numerals printed on disks. Hard knocks and tough usage all too often shattered watch-crystals, which in those days were made of glass and were correspondingly fragile.

Little windows were considerably more robust. For these reasons, watches with digital time displays were by no means uncommon during the 1920s and Thirties. Their raison d’être came to an end with the invention of shatterproof watch-crystals.

Chronoswiss Digiteur MSA watch (Montre sans Aiguilles)Chronoswiss surrounds the tonneau-shaped FHF 130 movement with a rectangular case: crafted from solid yellow, red, or white gold, the case is watertight to 30 meters. A pane of sapphire crystal, anti-reflective on one of its surfaces, protects the front side of the watch. The shaped movement needn’t hide itself from view: it’s free to reveal its full beauty thanks to a transparent pane of sapphire crystal in the back of the case.
Chronoswiss Digiteur MSA (Montre sans Aiguilles)
The Digiteur is a hand-wound watch that requires daily contact with the tips of its wearer’s thumb and index finger, so Chronoswiss made its crown particularly convenient to grasp. Screwed lugs affix the hand-sewn leather strap to the case.

Only a small number of FEF 130 calibers remained in stock, so Chronoswiss limited the production of the Digiteur in an edition of 990 specimens.

Technical details

Model: Digiteur (MSA=Montre sans Aiguilles = watch without hands)
Wrist watch (hand winding with jumping hour, digital for minutes and seconds, limited edition

References
CH 1370 Platinum 950 (38g), rg, bk, si, each in a limited edition of 33 specimens
CH 1371, 18ct. gold 2N (34g), si, in a limited edition of 99 specimens
CH 1371 R, 18ct. red gold 5N (34g), rg, bk, si, each in a limited edition of 99 specimens
CH 1371 W, 18ct. white gold (34g), rg, bk, si, each in a limited edition of 99 specimens
CH 1371 RW, 18ct. red gold (34g) with white gold screws and crown, si, in a limited edition of 99 specimens
CH 1371 WR, 18 ct. white gold (34g) with red gold screws and crown, rg, in a limited edition of 99 specimens

Displays
Hours (12-hour disc), minutes and seconds

Case
Massive, rectangular 17-part case, 45,50 x 27,70 mm, height 11,00 mm, smoothed and polished, gold bezel with non-reflective sapphire crystal, with 4 screws tightened exhibition case back eith non-reflective sapphire crystal, massive crown, screwed-on strap bars with patented Autobloc safety system, 20 mm lugs, water-resistant up to 3 atm (30 m)

Movement
Shaped caliber FEF 130, movement-blank from 1933-1963, special quality: digital hour(Heure Sautantes/jumping hour), minutes, seconds, 17,50 mm x 25,60 mm (7 ¾´´´ x 11´´´), height: 4,50 mm, 15 jewels, 40 hours power-reserve,2,5 Hz., 18.000 vibrations per hour (vph), polished pallets, pallet wheel and screws, bridges with Geneva grazed polished and perlage, individually numbered

Dial
Massive dial, 925 Sterling-Silver (si), rosé gold (rg), black (bk)

Graham Chronofighter Trigger Tourbillograph

In the beginning of 2005, to pay tribute to George Graham fantastic heritage to the watch history Graham London decided to add a magnificent collection; a symbol of tradition and passion for mechanical arts : the TOURBILLON.

The Tourbillograph was created and constructed in the vein of Graham’s “high adrenaline” timepieces: gutsy, sporty, functional, provocative yet very sophisticated. The complete construction of the cases is unique and allows a fascinating look through the refined mechanism of these fabulous “Tourbillons”. The Tourbillographs indicate on top of the hours, minutes and sweep seconds, located at the centre of the Tourbillon, two chronograph counters for the Minutes and Hours.
Graham-London Chronofighter Trigger TourbillographThe off-centre (“British eccentric”) construction of the Tourbillon has the advantage of being lighter and, therefore, more reliable including a better shock resistance. The enemy of the Tourbillon is the weight of its “cage” . The cage weighs 0.485 gr. and is made of 48 pieces. The double bridge construction on both sides, front and back, is classical “à la Breguet” and is clearly more reliable than a “Tourbillon Volant”.

The high frequency of the balance wheel: 28’800 alternations per hour permits an easier adjustment and a more precise running. The reinforced Incabloc anti-shock system, including spiral, balance, escapement wheels and anchor, guarantee an excellent shock resistance that is vital for a “sports” Tourbillon with chronograph function.

The off-centre construction with its unique “Coq” and upper bridge are shaped in the tradition of English high precision timepieces reminiscent of the 19th century, hence a “bow” to Graham’s heritage. A larger balance wheel that allows higher degree of precision.

All the Chronofighter RAC Trigger are powered by a column-wheel chronograph movement ensuring greatly enhanced precision, know as “roue à colonne” in french, hence the cryptic three letters “R.A.C.”. Made in 18 K 5N red gold, all feature a domed sapphire crystal on the front and a flat see-through back, highlighting the truly magnificent mechanism of these unique time machines.

Exquisite dials in form and function ooze the Graham spirit and underline our knack for refined details. The Chronofighter Trigger Tourbillograph comes in 5 different dials. Exquisite hand-sewn, black or brown, large scale alligator bracelets complement the great look of these latest Graham creations.
Graham-London Chronofighter Trigger Tourbillograph

Technical details

Movement
Calibre G1780. Tourbillon with chronograph function, featuring 2 counters: one for the 12 hours and the other for the 30 minutes. The sweep second is indicated by the large red hand. 42 hour power reserve.

Movement finishing
Oscillating weight, bridges and plates: plated black gold.
Counterpoise: 18k gold secured by 10 polished screws.
Oscillating weight and chronograph bridges: Sunburst pattern
Bridges and plates: circular-grained.
Brass and steel components: polished-chamfered
Upper bridge of the Tourbillon: 18K 5N gold secured with 2 polished screws.
Lower bridge: satin-finished.
“Roue à colonnes”: polished and black PVD coating

Case
5N red gold. 18K white gold start/stop lever
46 mm diameter. Thickness 16.74 mm. Standard pull-out crown.
Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the both sides; domed case-back with flat sapphire crystal. See-through case-back secured by 6 screws.
Water resistance: 50 metres. (5 atm)

Hands
White luminescent red gold hour and minute hands. 12 hour and 30 minute counter chrono hands in red
Red sweep second with luminescent white tip
Hexagonal center of the 30 minute counter: reference to the hex screws used for chronograph release mechanism

Models

  • Tourbillograph Trigger Ruthenium: Ref. 2TTAR.B02A.C86B – Dial: “Côtes de Genève”. Ruthenium effect. Black colour for both 12 hour counter (at 12 hour) and 30 minute counter with hexagonal center (at 9 hour). Black large scale croco strap. Black rubber strap may also be available. Pin buckle 18K 5N red gold.
  • Tourbillograph Trigger Raven Black: Ref. 2TTAR.B01A.C86B – Dial: “Côtes de Genève”. Black dial. Black colour for both 12 hour counter (at 12 hour) and 30 minute counter with hexagonal center (at 9 hour). Black large scale croco strap. Black rubber strap may also be available. Pin buckle 18K 5N red gold.
  • Tourbillograph Trigger Havana: Ref. 2TTAR.C01A.C87B – Dial: “Côtes de Genève”.“Havana” brown dial. Brown colour for both 12 hour counter (at 12 hour) and 30 minute counter with hexagonal center (at 9 hour). Brown large scale croco strap. Black rubber strap may also be available. Pin buckle 18K 5N red gold.
  • Tourbillograph Trigger Carbon Black: Ref. 2TTAR.B04A.C86B – Dial: Black. Carbon fibre for both 12 hour counter (at 12 hour) and 30 minute counter. Black large scale croco strap. Black rubber strap may also be available. Pin buckle 18K 5N red gold.

JEAN DUNAND Tourbillon Orbital

Introduced in 2005, Tourbillon Orbital was the first creation from the family of JEAN DUNAND watches, a continual program of unique timepieces inspired the great Art Deco artist and craftsman.

This world-premier mechanical watch features a one-minute flying tourbillon that orbits the dial once every hour, on a revolving movement. The JEAN DUNAND Tourbillon Orbital also introduces a novel power-reserve indicator in the case-band, provides a full view of the movement and displays the phases of the moon on the case-back. So extraordinary is this movement that it is patent-protected.

JEAN DUNAND Tourbillon Orbital watch
To equip the JEAN DUNAND Tourbillon Orbital watch, Thierry Oulevay and Christophe Claret created the IO200 movement, named after Jupiter’s moon. Invented and constructed by Claret, it defies the opinion of his fellow watchmakers who insisted that an orbiting tourbillon was impossible to realize.

It is a gauntlet thrown before the most experienced houses. Furthermore, it returns the tourbillon to its original role as the pre-eminent precision complication. Timing tests prove that the combined rotation of the tourbillon and the movement significantly improves the rate stability of the watch.

JEAN DUNAND Tourbillon IO200 movement

Positioned opposite each other, sandwiched between two plates held apart by pillars and rotating on ball bearings, the barrel and the flying tourbillon orbit the center. The revolving top plate is open to reveal the tourbillon. The tourbillon has been raised as much as possible to make it more clearly visible.

Unwinding against a central fixed pinion, the barrel drives itself and the tourbillon, while the tourbillon escapement regulates the speed of rotation. As it orbits, the tourbillon cage rotates once a minute against a fixed circumference wheel, connected through a gear train. This elegant configuration reduces the number of jewel bearings to 14, substantially lowering friction.

JEAN DUNAND Tourbillon IO200 movement

Christophe Claret devoted two years to solving the mechanical challenge of winding and setting a rotating movement with a mainspring barrel that never stays in one place. The conventional crown through the case-band was obviously impossible. Winding and setting the movement vertically through its central axis is a new solution in watchmaking. A folding key set into the case-back replaces the crown.

Lifting the D-ring of the key engages a central wheel on ball bearings that turns the ratchet-wheel to wind the barrel- spring. Pulling out the key engages the hours- and minutes-hands in order to set them in any direction. Positioned against the fixed chapter-ring, the minutes-hand turns with the rotating dial.

JEAN DUNAND Tourbillon Orbital

Inescapably, the winding key and the moon-phase display on the back of the watch prevent a conventional view of the rotating movement through a sapphire-crystal case-back. Conveniently, though, the absence of the usual crown at 3 o’clock allowed JEAN DUNAND’s case-makers to provide a fascinating lateral view of the revolving mechanisms by cutting two windows in the case-band.

These side windows opened the opportunity for another first in watchmaking – an entirely original way of indicating the power reserve. The window at 3 o’clock displays a vertical needle that moves between F (full) and E (empty). Precisely in the manner of fuel gauges in vintage cars. The secret of indicating the power-reserve in one place from a constantly moving barrel is patented.

Technical details

Model: JEAN DUNAND Tourbillon Orbital

Movement
Calibre IO200, manually wound rotating movement with off-center flying tourbillon, exclusive watchmaking ball-bearing system with triple rotation within one single block, moon-phase display in the back and power-reserve indicator on the side. Vertical winding and setting through the center of the movement from the back.
Dimensions: 33mm x 10.4mm (14 1/2 lignes).
Bearings :4 ball-bearing races, 14 jewel bearings.
Number of parts :215
Double ball-bearing with slow rotation, thermostatic, one rigid plate and two mobile plates, mainspring barrel and going train rotate around the central ball-bearing system, limited radial balance. Alignment mainspring barrel – center – flying tourbillon.
One-minute flying tourbillon (one-hour movement rotation),
balance with adjusting screws on a flat spring, balance frequency of
21’600 a/h, central ball-bearing system.

Indications
Hours and minutes, seconds on the tourbillon, power reserve, moon phases
Power reserve : Approximately 110 hours, indicator located in the caseband (linear reading system with gauge).Moon phase :Located in the caseback at 9 o’clock, precision of 29,5 days, lacquered golden disc.

Controls
Rapid push button: Located in the case back at 6 o’clock, manual push-piece to set the moon.
Winding System :Located vertically in the case back at 3 o’clock, two position winder (folding key).

Case and dial
In 18k rose gold, white gold or platinum with matching buckle. Two windows in the case band. Fir-tree engine-turned back.
Dimensions:45mm x 15.30mm.
Glass: Non-reflecting domed sapphire crystal. Two domed sapphire crystals in the caseband, one domed sapphire crystal in the caseback. Water resistance: 3 ATM (30 metres).
Dial : In 18k gold.
Hands: In 18k gold, “Skyscraper” style.

Lacoste Legend Automatic Limited Edition

Launched in 2005, this limited edition timepiece from Lacoste pays tribute to the founding year of world renowned French clothing brand, which started its operations in 1933.

This automatic watch features a tonneau-shaped stainless steel case inspired by the Art Deco movement of 1930s. The mechanical self winding movement is equipped with a rotor featuring Côtes de Genève decoration and engraved with Lacoste Crocodile.

Lacoste Legend Automatic Limited Edition watch

The stainless steel case of this Swiss made timepiece is fitted with scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and case back. This mechanical automatic timepiece was issued in a limited numbered series of 1933. The individual number of the timepiece is engraved on the back. Its black dial with brushed finish has luminescent Arabic numerals, white minute track and luminescent hands.

Lacoste Legend Automatic Limited Edition watch

Technical details

Movement
Mechanical self-winding
Rotor decorated with Côtes de Genève and engraved with Lacoste Crocodile

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds

Case
Steel
Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and back
Individual number engraved on the back

Dial
Brushed, luminescent Arabic numerals, minute track

Strap
Semi-matt genuine crocodile leather with folding clasp

IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic AMG Titanium (2005)

This Ingenieur Automatic AMG watch is the first luscious fruit of the partnership between IWC Schaffhausen and Mercedes- AMG, the high-end automobile specialist. The two companies share a joy in precision and perfection, for watches as well as for automobiles.

The Ingenieur Automatic AMG houses the new 80110 calibre automatic movement and the Pellaton winding system. The precision high-performance motor, designed for the continual strain of everyday use as well as for the extraordinary extreme situation, perfected by the construction engineers and finished and mounted with a high level of craftsmanship. And it’s protected by a soft-iron inner case against magnetic fields of up to 80,000 A/m (amperes per metre).

IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic AMG Titanium (2005)The Ingenieur Automatic Edition AMG features a robust case made of titanium, which IWC introduced in the 1980s. They were the first Swiss company to use titanium in the construction of watch cases.  It is lighter than steel, comfortable to wear, durable, fully anti-magnetic and absolutely allergy-free.

The dial design, which underlines its relationship to sporty automobiles with a strong instrument panel look and the exciting but discreet use of signal red elements, all stunningly implemented in the beautiful ensemble of a precision timepiece. The partnership between IWC in Schaffhausen in northern Switzerland and Mercedes-AMG in Affalterbach in southern Germany, is communicated by an engraving on the case back.

Eberhard & Co. Chrono 4 Temerario

This chronograph timepiece was born when revolutionary Chrono 4 met TEMERARIO, Eberhard & Co.’s most daring and innovative interpretation of the chronograph. Temerario is a provocative name, it stands for those individuals who dare, and seek out a new challenge. Eberhard Chrono 4 Temerario presents itself in a completely original and unique way.

Eberhard & Co. Chrono 4 Temerario

With its large size, Temerario’s case has a domed tonneau-shape, with a slightly arched caseback that allows it to snugly adhere to the wrist, and a convex sapphire glass that follows the soft ergonomic design. Chrono 4 Temerario boasts 3 exclusive patents developed by Eberhard & Co. One of these regards the movement, another concerns the access system to the crown, and a third relates to the safety clasp of the leather strap and the bracelet.

Eberhard & Co. Chrono 4 TemerarioEquipped with an automatic movement and an Eberhard & Co. device, Temerario represents a daring evolution of the chronograph with the auxiliary dials and counters aligned innovatively in a vertical row. A revolutionary solution, which required an in-depth study of the shape of the case and the design of the dial in order to balance the surface and ensure maximum visibility.

Starting at the top, we find the small dial with the continuous seconds, the 24 hours, the hour counter and the minute counter. The date is situated at 8 o’clock, so as not to overlap with the vertical counters. Beneath the case, at the level of the chronograph’s push button at 1 o’clock, there is a lever that when triggered releases the lid of a small chamber, at 12 o’clock, in which the crown is kept.

Eberhard & Co. Chrono 4 Temerario
The device that opens the chamber is exclusive to Eberhard & Co. and is easily activated even while the watch is worn. The case is water resistant up to 30 metres and features two personalized chronograph push buttons, with an unusual triangular shape. The caseback is locked with four screws and bears the name Temerario, engraved in red.

Also red is the hand of the 24-hour counter. Chrono 4 Temerario is available with a leather strap, which is integrated through a support at the joining points, or with the new steel bracelet “Chasse”. Both are fitted with the innovative and exclusive deployment clasp Déclic by Eberhard & Co., which consists of a sliding security lever that, when blocked, prevents the accidental unlocking of the clasp.

Eberhard & Co. Chrono 4 TemerarioThe access device of the crown is activated by exerting pressure against a small lever situated on the case-back. Large fluted regulation crown (Ø 11,7 mm.)
Eberhard & Co. Chrono 4 TemerarioDeployment clasp with safety lever, steel, embellishment “microbillée”, oxidized engravings. Steel CHASSE bracelet, crocodile leather strap.

Technical details

Model: Eberhard Chrono 4 Temerario

Movement: Mechanical automatic with 4 vertically aligned counters (small seconds, 24 hours,12-hour and 30-minute counters) 53 jewels
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, 24-hour display, chronograph functions, tachometric scale
Case: Polished steel
Domed antiglare sapphire crystal
Crown at 12 o’clock with patented protection system
Dial: Black, white or silver; luminescent hour markers or Arabic numerals
Bracelet/Strap: Crocodile leather or steel with patented folding clasp

OMEGA Seamaster Chronograph Regatta Countdown Timer

In 2005, a special version of the Seamaster Chronograph was developed by OMEGA particularly for sailors, with an enlarged case diameter of 44mm to make room for a new function: the regatta countdown timer. Timing the start of a regatta is crucial to a skipper, since he has to position the yacht to ensure that it crosses the starting line as near to the gun as possible (crossing the line too early can result in a penalty).

OMEGA’s regatta countdown timer comprises a special dial with a semicircle of 5 dots. Starting the chronograph at the first warning signal triggers the countdown mechanism, which clearly indicates the time remaining until the start as the dots gradually fill with a different colour as each successive 5-minute period elapses, starting black, then turning to blue and red.

OMEGA Seamaster Chronograph Regatta Countdown Timer

A counter at 9 o’clock, divided into the same three colours, gives a constant overview of the total elapsed time, with the central red chronograph hand counting down the final seconds to the start.

This highly functional diving timepiece featuring Regatta Countdown Timer is fitted with a high-precision self-winding mechanical movement – OMEGA calibre 3602 – with a power reserve of 44 hours. Steel or titanium models are available with a screw-in back that ensures water resistance to a depth of 300 metres.

OMEGA Seamaster Chronograph Regatta Countdown Timer

The steel version has a black aluminium ring on a stainless steel bezel, whereas the titanium version has a brushed steel ring on a titanium bezel.

Technical details

Reference: 2569.52.00 (Steel case with steel bracelet)
Model: OMEGA Seamaster Chronograph Regatta Countdown Timer
Collection: Seamaster collection, Launched in 2005

Case
Large 44mm diameter case in stainless steel or titanium, with screw-in case-back, crown and pushers
Water resistance:  300 metres/1000 feet
Unidirectional turning bezel with brushed steel ring on titanium model or black aluminium ring on steel model and large minute indicators, with luminous point at the 12 o’clock position

Dial
Black dial with large applied luminous hour markers, quarter second graduations, skeleton hour and minute hands with luminous Super Luminova inserts and red central chronograph hand with luminous point
Chronograph totalisers with luminous red hands for hours at 6 o’clock and minutes at 9 o’clock, continuous seconds counter at 3 o’clock
OMEGA symbol and name at 12 o’clock and RACING inscription in red above chronograph hour counter
Regatta start timer function comprising a semicircle of 5 dots that change colour every 5 minutes to indicate the time elapsed.

Bracelet/Strap
Matching bracelet in stainless steel or titanium with a safety clasp
A rubber strap with buckle is also available

Auguste Reymond Mega Boogie

Introduced in 2005, the Mega Boogie from Auguste Reymond, boasts an extremely broad diameter (44 mm), and houses the famous Unitas 6498 movement usually reserved exclusively for pocket watches. The meticulous decoration on the movement is a tribute to the brand’s know-how. This timepiece is offered in stainless steel case with Matt silvered dial with luminescent hands and dots.

Auguste Reymond Mega Boogie manual wound watch with decorated Unitas 6498 movement

Technical details

Model: Auguste Reymond Mega Boogie

Movement
Mechanical hand-wound Unitas 6498, special ARSA decorative pattern

Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds

Case
Steel
Sapphire crystal
Transparent back

Dial
Matt silvered, traditionally grained, luminescent hands and dots

Strap
Calfskin

Other versions
Charcoal grey dial

Links

Omega Speedmaster Michael Schumacher “The Legend” Collection

In 2004, Omega introduced the limited-edition Speedmaster “The Legend” watch to celebrate Michael Schumacher’s record-breaking sixth world championship title.

Inspired from its success, Omega launched the new “The Legend” collection in 2005. This Speedmaster – Michael Schumacher “The Legend” Collection comprises of three Speedmaster chronographs with a sporty design in recognition of Schumacher’s outstanding 2004 season and yet another world championship title.

The Legend Collection consists of three Speedmaster chronographs that combine Omega’s high-end column-wheel chronograph movement with sporty Formula 1-inspired dials. Each model has a 42mm diameter stainless-steel case with the familiar curved Speedmaster stainless-steel bracelet and safety clasp. Sealed between the scratch-resistant anti-reflective sapphire crystal and the screw-in case back is the exclusive Omega calibre 3301 self-winding chronograph movement.

Omega Speedmaster Michael Schumacher "The Legend" Collection

A fine example of a superior chronograph, this movement has a vertical coupling that ensures instantaneous actuation of the chronograph hand when the pusher is pressed, a column-wheel mechanism for precision starting, stopping and resetting of the chronograph functions, as well as the Omega free sprung-balance for excellent stability of the watch’s going rate. Furthermore, the movement is an officially certified COSC chronometer and has a power reserve of 55 hours.

Omega Speedmaster Michael Schumacher "The Legend" Collection

The three models are distinguished by their highly individual dials, all of which have an applied Omega symbol at 12 o’clock and 12 applied rhodium-plated applied hour markers with luminous dots : the first model has a black dial with silver subdials and a silver exterior hour circle with black minute scale and red Speedmaster name; the second a silver dial with two-tone silver subdials with black outer zones and a black exterior hour circle with white minute scale and red Speedmaster name; the last model has a red dial with black subdials, black hour circle and white minute scale and black Speedmaster name.

The former model has a tachymeter scale engraved on a black aluminium ring on the stainless-steel bezel, whereas the latter two have it engraved in black directly on the brushed stainless-steel bezel. All three models have a white-on-black date window at 6 o’clock and baton hour and minute hands with an arrowhead central chronograph seconds hand – all with luminous SuperLuminova inserts.

Patek Philippe Quantième Annuel Homme

This men’s Annual Calendar from Patek Philippe is a slightly larger base model, with finely worked dials. It is equipped with the Calibre 315 automatic movement featuring a 21 carat gold central rotor. Certified with the prestigious Geneva seal, this 36 jewels mechanical self-winding movement powers the Annual calendar (day, date, and month) functions and Moon phase indications.

The Patek Philippe Quantième Annuel Homme, which is available in 750 (18K) yellow or white gold version, is fitted with a screw-down sapphire crystal case back.

Patek Philippe Quantième Annuel Homme

The dial, which is available in cream or slate grey options, is lacquered with sunburst effect and has applied baton-shaped hour markers in yellow or white gold. The Arabic numerals and leaf-shaped hands in yellow or white gold are coated with luminescence material. It also boasts a power reserve indication at 12’o clock.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Quantième Annuel Homme

Movement
Mechanical automatic Calibre 315, 36 jewels, 21’600 vph, 21-carat gold central rotor, Geneva Seal

Functions
Hours, minutes, centre seconds
Annual calendar (day, date, month)
Moon phases

Case
750 (18K) yellow or white gold
Screw-down sapphire back

Dial
Cream or slate grey lacquered with sunburst effect
Applied baton-shaped hour markers in yellow or white gold
Arabic numerals and leaf-shaped hands in yellow or white gold with luminescent coating
Hollowed subdials, snailed motif and leaf-shaped hands in yellow or white gold

Strap
Brown hand-sewn alligator leather with yellow or white gold folding clasp

BLANCPAIN Tourbillon Transparence

Launched in 2005 in an exclusive limited series of 27 to celebrate the 270th anniversary of the Blancpain Manufacture, this exceptional timepiece in platinum boasts a meticulously crafted flying tourbillon movement that can be admired through the remarkable sapphire crystal dial.

BLANCPAIN Tourbillon Transparence

The Blancpain 6925A movement, which drives a 7-day power-reserve and a large date display, is enhanced by exceptional finishing details such as hand-chased platinum oscillating weight, bevelled bridges and plates, Côtes de Genève decoration and circular graining. This 35 jewels movement offers a power reserve of 168 hours.

The sapphire crystal dial has superluminova open-worked hands, large date display at 6 o’clock and power-reserve at 9 o’clock.

Technical details

Model: BLANCPAIN Tourbillon Transparence

Movement
Automatic, Blancpain 6925A, 307 parts, with flying tourbillon
168-hour power-reserve, 35 jewels
Hand-chased platinum oscillating weight
Bevelled bridges and plates, “Côtes de Genève” decorative motif, circular graining

Functions
Hours, minutes, date, power-reserve

Case
950 platinum, 38 mm
Sapphire crystal and back
Water-resistant to 100 m

Dial
Sapphire crystal
Large date display at 6 o’clock and power-reserve at 9 o’clock: elements engraved and painted on the sapphire
Superluminova open-worked hands

Strap
Black crocodile leather, folding clasp

BLANCPAIN Léman Réveil GMT Anniversaire

Launched in 2005, this luxurious timepiece in red gold is packed with two useful complications for travellers: Second time zone & Alarm.

Issued in a limited edition of 270, to mark the 270th anniversary of Blancpain, this exceptional creation brilliantly combines time-honoured know-how with cutting-edge contemporary demands.

BLANCPAIN Léman Réveil GMT Anniversaire (reference 2041-3642M-53B)

Powered with Blancpain twin-barrel Calibre 1241, this automatic timepiece displays numerous functions through its black dial that incorporates luminous gold hands, Arabic numerals and hour markers. The Dual time-zone can be displayed by centre hands and 24-hour counter at 9 o’clock.

The Alarm function is carried out with hours and minutes counters at 3 o’clock. The dial also boasts power reserve at 10.30 o clock, on-off indicator between 12 and 1 o’clock (activated by a crown at 8o’clock), date window at 4.30 o’clock and Small seconds at 6 o’clock.

Technical details

Model: BLANCPAIN Léman Réveil GMT Anniversaire (reference 2041-3642M-53B)

Movement
Automatic, Blancpain twin-barrel Calibre 1241, 407 parts
Decorated by hand

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date – automatically linked to the second time zone, alarm – hand connected to the 2nd time zone, striking mechanism power reserve wound by winding the movement, GMT

Case
750 (18K) red gold, brushed finish, 40 mm
Individual number
Sapphire crystal and back
Screw-down crown, push-pieces and back
Water-resistant to 100 m

Dial
Black
Dual time-zone display: centre hands and 24-hour counter at 9 o’clock
Alarm: hours and minutes counters at 3 o’clock, power reserve at 10.30 o clock, on-off indicator between 12 and 1 o’clock (activated by a crown at 8o’clock), date window at 4.30 o’clock
Small seconds at 6 o’clock

Strap
Black rubber, gold folding clasp

BLANCPAIN Léman Aqua Lung Grande Date

Launched in 2005 on the occasion of 270th anniversary of the brand, this large date model from the Léman collection combines contemporary aesthetic with an understated sporting look. Equipped with the Blancpain Calibre 6950, this automatic timepiece in steel was produced a limited edition of 2005 pieces.

BLANCPAIN Léman Aqua Lung Grande Date

Its black dial features luminous white hands, Arabic numerals and luminescent hour markers. The date indication is positioned at 6’o clock.

Technical details

Model: BLANCPAIN Léman Aqua Lung Grande Date, Ref. 2850B-1130-64B

Movement
Automatic, Blancpain Calibre 6950
70-hour power reserve
Côtes de Genève motifs, bevelled bridges, blued screws, engraved oscillating weight
Jewels: 35
Components: 285

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date

Case
Brushed steel case
Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 11.4
Screw-down crown and back
Individual number
Width between horns: 22
Sapphire crystal and back
Water-resistant to 100 m

Dial
Black dial
Hands, Arabic numerals and luminescent hour markers
Double date window at 6 o’clock

Strap
Black rubber, folding clasp

Edition
Limited edition of 2005 pieces

IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic Ref IW 322701(2005)

The IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic features the new calibre 80110 with the Pellaton winding system and integrated shock absorbers. The extremely high magnetic field protection of its predecessors has been inherited and it has the unmistakeable look of the legendary Ingenieur SL from 1976.

The Automatic’s kinship with the best-known Ingenieur, the SL from 1976 (collector’s name: “Jumbo”), is unmistakeable and intentional. Since its inception in the 1950s, the Ingenieur has always been based on the principle of making what’s good even better. Using the Ingenieur as a platform for new watchmaking developments and improvements means it has achieved an enormous degree of perfection.
IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic Ref IW 322701(2005) The Ingenieur Automatic with its newly developed 80110 calibre automatic movement also carries on the never-ending story. Just like the large 5000 calibre family, this movement with its smaller dimensions returns to the ratchet winding system by Albert Pellaton. After all, it is thanks to this development that the Ingenieur has enjoyed its legendary reputation since its first appearance in 1954/55.

Since then, no one has been able to improve on this self-winding system. But, for the first time, the technicians at IWC put the brilliant construction into a computer model. Then they applied tests and analytical processes that were not available to Pellaton in his day. The result is a definite improvement of the integrated shock-absorbing system that no other automatic movement has. The technicians at IWC have no doubts: Today the 80110 calibre automatic movement has the most effective protection against jolts and jarring.

As with most of the Ingenieur models of the last 50 years, the movement is protected against magnetism by the typical IWC soft-iron inner case. The dial is also part of it. This forms a magnetic field conduction “cage” so that no poles are created. The Ingenieur Automatic is guaranteed protection against magnetic fields of up to 80,000 A/m (amperes per metre).

The Swiss standard only requires a protection level of 4800 A/m for an antimagnetic watch. Externally, the Ingenieur Automatic also offers extremely attractive quality for a buyer. This includes its solid three-part stainless steel case with the integrated IWC metal bracelet, a screw-in back, a screw-in crown and a sapphire glass antireflective coated on both sides.

For the dial design, primary importance was placed on easy readability of the hour, minute,central seconds and date information. Powerful illuminated hands and indices on the nightblack background underscore the markedly masculine and functional impression without placed on easy readability of the hour, minute, central seconds and date information.

Powerful illuminated hands and indices on the night black background underscore the markedly masculine and functional impression without showing off. The IWC integrated metal bracelet with folding clasp also underwent a meticulous testing process down to the last detail.

IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Midsize 34mm Ref 451503(2005)

Launched in 2005, with a 34 mm diameter case, the Midsize is today’s smallest Ingenieur. The 30110 calibre automatic movement means it is mechanically well equipped.

The silvered dial radiates a discreet elegance, and the integrated IWC metal bracelet system with its folding clasp keeps the watch securely on the wrist. The coated sapphire glass and proven water resistance to 120 m ensures that it is optimally protected in everyday life and for all kinds of sports challenges.

IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Midsize 34mm Ref 451503(2005)Perhaps it actually is the most beautiful Ingenieur. In any case, it continues a fairly old and noble tradition that the Ingenieur should be available in a size that accommodates smaller wrists, both women’s and men’s. This wish was already fulfilled in 1988 by the almost graceful Ingenieur with the hybrid calibre 631 movement and integrated chronograph.

Anderesen Geneve Montres à Tact – Homage to Hans Christian Andersen (2005)

Unveiled at Basel-world 2005, this collection pays homage to Hans Christian Andersen (1805 – 1875), the Danish author known world-wide for his fairy tales. These unique watches were launched to mark the 200th anniversary celebration of H.C. Andersen in 2005.

The Collection consisted of two «Montres à Tact» models , one with a hand-engraved portrait, and one with a hand-painted miniature illustration of the fairy tale «The Tinder-Box».
Anderesen Geneve Montres à Tact - Homage to Hans Christian Andersen (2005)The Danish author Hans Christian Andersen is known world-wide for his fairy tales. In the years 1831 to 1872 he was one of the most travelled celebrities and visited 11 European countries. At that time it took days and weeks to travel by stage-coach, sailing-ship and the upcoming first railway connections from Copenhagen to Berlin, Paris, Munich, Rom and his favourite destination: Switzerland.

Anderesen Geneve Montres à Tact - Homage to Hans Christian Andersen

He visited this mountainous country, so different from his flat homeland Denmark, 12 times. In 1833 he spent several weeks in the horological city of Le Locle with a family of watchmakers in order to learn French.

Technical details

Movement
Automatic

Functions
Hour (two displays)

Case
750 (18K) red gold, 42 mm
Top: Hand-painted miniature and Sapphire crystal
Middle: Opening between the two attachments, fitted with a sapphire crystal, for 2nd time indication
Back: Time-setting corrector and Commemorative Hommage à H.C. Andersen engraving

Edition
Pièce unique – Le Briquet inscription

Bracelet/Strap
Hand-sewn chestnut brown crocodile leather, pin buckle

Links

IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Chronograph and Ingenieur Chronograph AMG (2005)

In 2005, IWC added two new Ingenieur Chronographs to the  Ingenieur Automatics line: One is the classic, rather purist variation in a stainless steel case and the second watch in the Edition Mercedes-AMG has a titanium case.IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Chronograph and Ingenieur Chronograph AMG (2005)The inner workings of both timepieces are the same. And on the outside they are definitely the siblings of their respective Ingenieur Automatic models. Even the dimensions are the same: 42.5 mm diameter. In brief: Automatic chronograph movement cal. 79350, small seconds with stop function, chronograph with 30-minute counter.

In addition to the division for seconds and eighths of a second that this mechanical movement can offer with its 4 Hz, the dial has an external tachymeter scale for precise determination of speed over a measured distance. This is a ‘must’, not only but especially for the AMG Chronograph.

Otherwise, pure purism, but only of the highest level. What is true for the Ingenieur Automatic movement, is also true for the Chronograph movement: A case that is strong as a safe is good, and a shield against extreme magnetic fields is better. This meant that the chronographs also had to grow in height in order to accommodate the soft-iron inner case.
IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Chronograph and Ingenieur Chronograph AMG (2005)Screw-in crown, anti-reflective sapphire glass, the typical Ingenieur bezel drilled with five holes, the secure and yet comfortable IWC bracelet system – the Edition AMG is also available on a soft strap and pin buckle.

What’s more, the Ingenieur Chronographs rise above the army of watches with stop functions because of a critical detail: the operation buttons of the chronograph are harmoniously and functionally integrated into the case. These buttons with their high operational security strike a historical note to another watch, the Ingenieur with chronograph and alarm that was built from 1991.

That watch also had the integrated chronograph buttons. But it, like the graceful women’s Ingenieur from 1988, had the quartz hybrid movement calibre 633, and the women’s model without alarm function the calibre 631.

Patek Philippe Quantième Annuel Dame

Dedicated to feminine wrists, this elegant Annual Calendar timepiece from Patek Philippe blends technical sophistication and refined decorative motifs. This model is available in two versions: Yellow gold case with white mother-of-pearl dial or White gold case with Tahiti black dial.

Bezel of this sparkling timepiece is adorned with 156 round Top Wesselton flawless diamonds and the crown is set with 14 round Top Wesselton flawless diamonds. The mechanical self-winding Calibre 315 which beats inside the watch carries the prestigious Geneva Seal.

Patek Philippe Quantième Annuel Dame

Technical details

Movement
Mechanical automatic Calibre 315, 34 jewels, 21’600 vph, 21-carat gold rotor,
Geneva Seal

Functions
Hours, minutes, centre seconds
Annual calendar (day, date month)
Moon-phase display
Max. 48-hour power-reserve

Case
750 (18K) yellow or white gold
Bezel set with 156 round Top Wesselton flawless diamonds
Crown set with 14 round Top Wesselton flawless diamonds
Sapphire back

Dial
White mother-of-pearl (yellow gold version) or Tahiti black (white gold)
Leaf-shaped hands in yellow or white gold with luminescent coating
Hollowed snail-patterned subdials with gold ring and leaf-shaped hands in yellow or white gold

Strap
Hand-sewn alligator leather, in matt champagne colour (for yellow gold version) or glossy grey (for white gold version) with pin buckle in yellow or white gold

OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Special Edition – Celebrating 40th Anniversary (1965-2005) of the First Space Walk

The special limited edition Speedmaster model created in 2005 commemorates not only the 40th anniversary of the first space walk, but also the 40th anniversary of the Speedmaster’s flight qualification for manned spaceflight missions. These important milestones are celebrated with a distinctive model with a blue dial and matching blue aluminium ring on the steel bezel.

The Gemini space exploration programme was developed as an intermediate step between the Mercury and Apollo programmes. It was named after the third constellation of the zodiac, featuring the twin stars Castor and Pollux, in allusion to the two-man spacecraft. The main objectives of the programme were, among others, to subject two astronauts and their equipment to long-duration flights and to perfect methods of re-entry and landing the spacecraft at a pre-selected land-landing point – both of which were important for later trips to the moon.

The Gemini 4 mission that took off on 3 June 1965 was only the second manned mission in the Gemini programme, yet it nevertheless lasted 4 days, 1 hour, 56 minutes and 12 seconds and included the first-ever extra-vehicular activity. Not only did the historic press photos of Edward H. White’s 36-minute space walk capture the world’s imagination, they also stunned the people at Omega, who noticed he was wearing one of the brand’s Speedmaster chronographs.

Having requested confirmation from NASA that White was indeed wearing a Speedmaster, Omega discovered one year later that its chronograph had in fact been flight-qualified for all manned space missions by NASA on 1 March 1965. In fact, it was a choice that was easily made, since it was the only chronograph that withstood the extreme conditions imposed by NASA’s tests. Later the same month, the Speedmaster was for the first time worn officially on the Gemini 3 mission (it had already been worn in space by Walter Schirra, who had purchased it himself, on the Sigma 7 mission in 1962).

Though greeted with considerable jubilation at the brand’s headquarters in Bienne, Switzerland, this sensational news led to the most minor of changes to the watch: the addition of one word on the dial, turning the humble OMEGA Speedmaster into the legendary OMEGA Speedmaster Professional. Even forty years after being flight-qualified by NASA – and nearly fifty years since it was first launched – today’s Speedmaster Professional still bears more than just a striking resemblance to the models used in the Gemini programme.

OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Special Edition - Celebrating 40th Anniversary (1965-2005) of the First Space Walk

This limited edition Speedmaster Professional is equipped with Omega Calibre 1861, which offers a power reserve of 45 hours and has rhodium-plated surfaces with polished bevelled edges, special wave decoration and circular-graining with gold-plated engravings.

Produced in limited edition of 2005 pieces, the Gemini 4 limited-edition Speedmaster is characterised by its blue dial and silver counters for the 30-minute and 12-hour chronograph counters and continuous seconds. The blue theme is also continued on the bezel, with the familiar tachymeter scale reproduced on a blue aluminium ring. The commemorative nature of the timepiece is indicated by a subtle red engraving 1965-2005 below the Speedmaster name at 12 o’clock on the dial.

The applied Omega symbol above the name, as well as 12 rhodium-plated hour markers, also add a hint of luxury and indicate that this Speedmaster is special. In all other respects, the watch remains a classic Speedmaster, with the same case, bracelet and hesalite crystal found on the “Moon Watch” – the standard Speedmaster Professional model.

However, one of its most striking features is destined to remain hidden most of the time, since it is the distinctive Gemini 4 mission patch, bearing the names of the crew, McDivitt and White, and an illustration of the first space walk, that is etched in colour on the sapphire crystal case back with the engraving “First Space Walk 40th Anniversary” and the limited-edition number (0001/2005).

ALPINA Avalanche Régulateur

Named ‘Régulateur 1883’ in reference to the year Alpina was founded, this model from the Avalanche collection is an eloquent tribute to the rich tradition of the Geneva-based brand. The regulator dial is distinguished by its off-centred hours display at 10 o’clock.

Introduced in 2005, the ALPINA Avalanche Régulateur is powered with a mechanical hand wound movement that offers a power reserve up to 42 hours. The stainless steel case is fitted with sapphire crystal and screw-down sapphire case back. The black dial with Côtes de Genève pattern features off-centred hours sub dial at 10o’clock, small seconds at 6 o’clock, central minute hand, applied numerals and luminescent hands.

ALPINA Avalanche Régulateur watch

Technical details

Movement
Mechanical hand-wound
Bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève” pattern
42-hour power reserve

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds

Case
Steel, 42 mm
Sapphire crystal
Screw-down sapphire back
Water-resistant to 50m
Individual number

Dial
Black with “Côtes de Genève” pattern, off-centred hours sub dial at 10o’clock, small seconds at 6 o’clock, central minute hand, applied numerals, luminescent hands

Bracelet/Strap
Rubber or steel

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