In 2001, Seiko Watch Corporation created a special Grand Seiko watch in collaboration with Steiff, the iconic German luxury toy brand. This special timepiece was exhibited at the 12th International Jewelery Tokyo in 2001 along with STEIFF’s Platinum Teddy Bear.
Established by Margarete Steiff in Giengen in 1880, STEIFF has been known for its luxurious animal-themed toys for children, especially the teddy bears. The iconic “Bear 55 PB” was launched in 1902. Designed by Margarete’s nephew Richard Steiff, it was the world’s first plush teddy bear with movable arms and legs. In 2002, the company celebrated the 100th anniversary of the original teddy bear.
In the Grand Seiko Teddy Bear Watch project, Seiko Watch Co. and Margarete Steiff GmbH partnered with Japanese Toy Company Takara Co., Ltd. and Platinum Guild International.
Founded in 1955, Takara Co., Ltd. was the sole distributor of STEIFF in Japan. In March 2006, the company merged with Tomy Co., Ltd. to form Takara Tomy. Today, it is one of the world’s leading toy manufacturers.
The 12th International Jewelery Tokyo was held from 24 to 27 January, 2001. During this event, STEIFF displayed its “Platinum Teddy Bear”, sporting a platinum tiara and a cloak made of platinum cloth. Two “Platinum Teddy Bears” and Steiff Teddy Bear Watches were produced.
One set was created for Platinum Guild International for promoting platinum jewelry at the organization’s exhibitions nationwide. The second set was dedicated to the “Teddy Bear Collection Exhibition” to mark the 100th anniversary of the birth of Steiff teddy bears. Later, it was put up for a charity auction and the proceedings were donated to the Japanese Red Cross Society.
The Steiff Teddy Bear Watch was based on Grand Seiko SBGX017. This Platinum GS quartz model was introduced in 1997. Equipped with the 9F61 movement, it features 35.5mm diameter case, silver dial and alligator leather strap with platinum buckle. The company selected this model to create the Grand Seiko Steiff Teddy Bear Watch (reference SBGX00C1).
The Grand Seiko SBGX00C1 timepiece has a silver dial with the inscription “Steiff Teddy Bear” just above the 6 o’ clock. The case back features the “Steiff Teddy Bear” text and an engraving of a teddy bear.
During the 12th International Jewelery Exhibition Tokyo, one SBGX00C1 platinum watch was worn on the arm of STEIFF Platinum Teddy Bear. The total amount of platinum jewelry and costumes, including watches, was equivalent to 4.8 million yen.
Movement: Caliber 9F61
Functions: Hour, minute and seconds
Accuracy: Annual difference ± 10 seconds (when worn on the arm at a temperature of 5 to 35 ° C)
Case dimensions: 35.5mm X 10.1mm
Dial: Silver, with Steiff Teddy Bear inscription
Band: Crocodile leather strap with platinum buckle
Glass: Sapphire glass (with anti-reflective coating on the inside)
Founded in 1857 and now based in Besancon in France, DODANE 1857 is a specialist in chronometric instruments of navigation for military and civil aviation. In 2005, the company re-issued the TYPE 21, the famous chronograph watch provided to the pilots of French Airforce from the sixties.
The TYPE 21 is the symbol of precision watchmaking craftsmanship in service to the armed forces. Full-fledged navigational instruments, these chronographs were designed on the basis of strict specifications from the Ministry of Defence.
The technical qualities of the TYPE 21, combined with its reliability, have made it a truly renowned timepiece. The distinctive features of the watch provide a refined, authentic style, perfectly preserving the line and personality of the original watch that was the pride of generations of pilots. This personalized limited edition is assembled in the Swiss Jura region, respecting age-old watchmaking traditions.
Military watches have a history; they reflect intensive efforts in the quest for precision and authenticity. The watch actually had to compensate for onboard instrument failure by acting as a navigational instrument for the pilot. While conserving their precision, these chronographs already withstood extreme constraints in terms of acceleration, vibration, temperature variations and resistance to magnetic effects.
By official command from the French General Staff, the House of Dodane developed the Type 21 in the 1950’s. The “fly-back” function was the principal requirement in the stringent specifications then set out for the chronograph by the Ministry of Defence.
The “fly-back “function enables the user to set the stopwatch to zero and then to restart immediately the chronograph function. The Air Force has imposed this condition as it was vital for pilots when they would fly over a beacon or when they had to land relying on the time given by the control tower.
Among other requirements from the French National Defence’s specifications: an autonomy of over 35 hours, a maximum time difference of 8 seconds per any 24 hours. The difference was reduced to 0.2 seconds per minute and 0.5 seconds per half hour for chronometers. Besides, the chronograph was supposed to operate at least 300 starts, stops and zero-setting in a row.
Already used by the Air Force and other corps, the Type 21 was supplied to NATO forces involved in sensitive missions. In the 1990’s, Dodane Type 21 chronographs continued to wield their talent in Army light aviation.
Launched in 2005, the new Type 21 chronograph was designed as homage to the original TYPE 21 of 1956 based on the basis of specifications from the Ministry of Defence. This modern incarnation features upgraded movement, enhanced water resistance, better accuracy and superb finishing.
For their products, Dodane 1857 incorporates manufacturing standards of the Swiss made label. They design, develop and control the timepieces within their company in Besancon and sub-contract the manufacture and the assembly with a great company specialized in watches complications which work with most of famous Swiss watches brand manufacturers.
The movement which powers the TYPE 21 reissue is Dubois-Dépraz 42021 on a basis of an ETA 2892-A2. Dubois-Depraz is an independent Swiss company, specialized in the complications movements making intended to be integrated on a great number of prestigious brands models. The movement is equipped with the Incabloc system and shockproof.
The calibre ETA 2892A2 is used as a basis of engine and drive control, on which the watchmakers add a chronometric module and Flyback function. This high precision base movement manufactured by ETA beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour. The movement, the ETA base + Module stopwatch flyback, completely is assembled and set within the Dubois-Depraz company.
The Flyback complication which Dubois-Depraz carries out is rare because it’s complex to develop and DD has an exceptional know-how. The movement features “Côte de Genève” decoration with the gilt engraving of the brand and the Bottom plate and bridges decorated.
The brand has also paid a detailed attention to the sealing of the watch which is of 10 bars (100m) in order to arrive at the highest standards in term of sealing.
The customers can choose the standard model or the Chronometer version with “chronometric instrument” certificate by the “National Observatory of Time Measurement” in Besancon, an independent academic verification agency. Additional charges required for chronometer certification.
Measuring 41.50 mm diameter and 13.70 mm thickness, the stainless steel (316L) case of the watch ensures the antimagnetic safety for the parts of movement.
The leather strap of the chronograph is in black colour in order to respect the original type 21 Ministry of Defence specifications.
The stainless steel bracelet of the Type 21 was made in France by a French band manufacturer. Its complete plain 316 L, solid stainless steel links made by CNC (Numerically controlled Machines) and fixed by special hardened pins (it’s not stamped links).
The hands are made in Besançon and the dials are made in Switzerland.
The Type 21 is a very high-precision chronograph. It is equipped with a special mechanism called “fly-back” enabling to measure pre-set time with continuous or interrupted operations.
This function enables to start, stop and restart the central hand telling seconds divided to the 5th as well as the hands telling minutes and hours.
The chronometer’s Start function is set by pushing the first push-button A. With a second push on this button, the central hand is stopped. A third push on the same button re-starts the chronometer hand. This enables to stop a time measurement and re-start it at the stop mark.
Zero-setting function of seconds, minutes and hours is obtained by pushing the second push-button B.
The Fly-back device allows it to be instantly reset during the chronograph’s operation by pressing the second button (B), without having to first stop the operation with the first button (A). When pressure is maintained on the second button, the hand stays at zero and only starts again when pressure is released.
The device enables an aircraft pilot or ship’s captain to follow instructions and change headings according to a predefined course. Once a sequence has elapsed, pressure on the button launches the following sequence.
The rotating bezel completes the sums of minutes and hours by acting as a countdown timer. For a four hour flight, the pilot enters the number 4 opposite the hour hand of the main dial, and starts the chronograph: when the hour hand is opposite the luminous 0 mark, the four hours have elapsed.
The tachometer measurement enables to know the plane speed when taking off on a short runway. As a matter of fact, if the pilot has not reached the sufficient acceleration to take off regarding a pre-set distance, he or she will choose to reverse the engine push in order to try to take off again safely.
316 L stainless steel case (Also available in black PVD version)
Diameter: 41.50 mm
Thickness: 13.70 mm
Unidirectional rotating bezel with anti-clockwise return pawl
Sapphire Upper Glass and Hardened Glass case-back
Water-resistant 100 meters (10 bars)
Three Chronographs totalisators (hour, minute, second) to the 1/5th of second
Superluminova Hands and figures luminescent
57 jewels Automatic chronograph movement 42021 Dubois Depraz Swiss-made Chronometric assortment
Bidirectional winding ball-bearing central rotor
42 hours of power reserve
Finishing: «Cote de Genève» finishing on winding mechanism, polished-surfacing with chamfered bridges, blues screws, Bridge rhodium finishing, Colimaçon decoration on Barrel
Leather strap or Stainless steel bracelet with double claps opening
4000 Euros (*Approximate price as on Apr 2019)
450 Euros extra for chronometer certification
Personalization is available (Additional charges apply)
For Breitling, the name Montbrillant refers to chronographs endowed with a wealth of tradition and exclusive features. One such model is the Montbrillant Olympus, a chronograph inspired by the finest products made by the brand in the course of its history. The beaded bezel, for example, is a faithful reproduction of the first chronographs equipped with a slide rule.
In the same spirit, the two-tone dial clearly distinguishes the timekeeping zone from the logarithmic scales. On the back of the watch is a medallion depicting the factory built by Léon Breitling in 1892 on Montbrillant Street, in the watchmaking town of La Chaux-de- Fonds. Yet it is the mechanism of the Montbrillant Olympus that best reflects Breitling’s strong attachment to tradition.
Caliber 19 is a highly complex movement, made up of almost 250 components, enabling not only the measurement of short times, but also the simultaneous indication of the date, the day, the month and the moon-phases. The mechanism is programmed to provide this information without any need for adjustments throughout a complete leap-year cycle, meaning four years.
Movement: Mechanical self-winding Breitling Caliber 19, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, high frequency (28,800 vibrations per hour), 38 jewels. 1/4th of a second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers. Leap-year calendar with indication of the date, day, month and moon-phases.
Case: steel, 18K rose gold (limited series). Resistant to 3 bars. Rotating bezel with circular slide rule. Domed sapphire crystal, glareproofed both sides. Diameter: 42.10 mm.
In addition to illustrating part of the brand’s history and showing the considerable potential of the OMEGA Museum, the Museum Collection meets a clear demand among collectors for historical timepieces from the company. The Museum Collection made its debut in 2001 with a re-edition of a 1938 pilot’s watch. The 2002 OMEGA Museum Collection model was a replica of the square-cased version of a calendar watch from 1951.
Introduced in 2003, the third watch in the collection is re-edition of a rare type of chronograph from 1945, a unusual watch with a tachymetric scale from 400km/h to 20km/h on the dial together with telemetric and pulsometric scales.
In keeping with the Museum Collection philosophy, this re-edition retains the same essential characteristics of the original, save for a few minor improvements to bring it up to the latest technological standards: a domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, clearer markings on the dial, better quality leather for the strap and water resistance to 30 metres.
The watch case retains the original 1945 diameter of 38.4mm, as well as its distinct look of the period: entirely satin-finished, with only the very smallest of polished areas on the bevels of the bezel and chronograph pushers. The crown also has the typically intricate grooved design of the period. The case back has a special museum limited edition inscription, as well as the limited-edition number, engraved on it.
The watch is driven by the OMEGA calibre 3200, a manual winding chronograph movement manufactured exclusively for OMEGA by Frédéric Piguet SA. This movement has a prestige column wheel mechanism to ensure precision operation of the chronograph functions and a power reserve of 55 hours when fully wound. Like all prestige OMEGA movements, its surfaces are finely finished with circular graining, Geneva wave décor, rhodium plating and gold-plated engravings.
The black Opaline dial is adorned with gold feuille hands, a chronograph minute counter at 3 o’clock and continuous small seconds at 9 o’clock. It provides the backdrop for the various instrument scales in gold:
Tachymeter: The tachymeter is a standard feature of most high-end chronographs. However, whilst most tachymeters have a single scale reading down to 60, the OMEGA Museum Collection 2003 has three separate tachymeter scales (in yellow gold) that are graduated down to 20. The tachymeter can be used to calculate the speed of a vehicle by measuring the time taken to travel a reference distance of 1000 metres. Equally, the scale can be used to calculate the hourly output of a machine, for example: if the time taken to produce one item is measured, the tachymeter scale gives an immediate indication of how many such items the machine produces in one hour.
Telemeter: The telemetric scale (in red gold) allows calculation of the distance from the observer of an event that is both visible and audible. The best practical example of its use is in a thunderstorm: the chronograph button is pushed when a flash of lightning is seen and then stopped when the thunderclap is heard; the central chronograph hand pointing to the telemeter scale then indicates how far away the storm is from the observer in kilometres.
Pulsometer: This scale (in silver) is used to take a person’s pulse based on 15 beats. The chronograph is started on the first beat and stopped on the 15th; the pulsometer scale then indicates the heart rate in beats per minute.
Presented in a special Museum Collection gift box, this historical OMEGA timepiece is fitted with a brown alligator leather strap with satin finished buckle.
Unveiled in 1993, this exceptional creation from Blancpain is the world’s first Wristwatch Repeater with Automata.
Automata, or moving figure watches have had a checkered past. The techniques for creating them evolved near the end of the 17th century. The subjects for the moving figures were frequently erotic scenes. Their allure was instantly recognized. Watchmakers responded with ingenious fantasies to tempt those with the means to acquire these most rare and expensive creations. This did not long go unnoticed by the Church.
Religious authorities in the Swiss cantons of Geneva and Neuchâtel formed an alliance to strike out against this free libertine exotic expression. Not only was further production of the watches banned, but those in existence were made subject to seizure.
The fate of confiscated watches was both predictable and grim: destruction. What were already rare pieces for reasons of cost became even rarer. In some cases, the ingenuity of the watchmakers came to the rescue. Rather than placing the automata in plain view on the dial or case-back, watchmakers created a separate hinged case-back that would hide the automata from all but the most detailed inspections. With the hinge closed, the watch would appear as an ordinary, unadorned timepiece.
Notwithstanding the clever means for avoiding detection and seizure, the creation of erotic timepieces was effectively suppressed. Most critically, this complication did not pass from pocket watches to wristwatches, as the industry transformed itself at the beginning of the 20th century.
Blancpain brought back this most celebrated – albeit clandestine– complication with the introduction of its Calibre 332 in 1993. This set a milestone for wristwatches: the world’s first minute repeater with automata. Both erotic and non-erotic figures are combined with Blancpain’s famed minute repeater movements.
Combining moving figures with the delicate repeater mechanism is a watchmaking tour de force. It is always difficult to integrate a repeater with automata because the moving figures require so much power from the movement. Compounding the test of watchmaking ingenuity is the fact that the movement of the figures must take place in a way that does not disturb the functioning of the delicate repeater mechanism. When all of this is done in the scale of a wristwatch, as opposed to a clock or large pocket watch, it is doubly difficult.
In Blancpain’s case, the figures were mated with the world’s smallest repeater mechanism, which made the challenge even greater for its craftsmen. As befits the world’s first automata repeater wristwatch, Blancpain decided to make each watch unique, with hand-created and carved figures adorning the back. Certifying the individuality of its own scene, never to be duplicated,each Calibre 332 watch is engraved with the inscription “pièce unique”, meaning “unique watch – one in a series of one”.
Beyond the individuality of each of the scenes, each represents an artistic achievement. The figures are all painstakingly hand-engraved. The background scenes are created following the techniques developed by Huguenot artisans 300 years ago, but nearly forgotten for the past 150 years. Multiple enamel layers are hand-painted and fired in a process called “grand feu” enamelling.
The running equation of time (“Equation du Temps Marchante”) watch by Blancpain was debuted in 2004. This limited edition of 50 pieces features two equation of time displays, the running solar minutes-hand (bearing a sun) and a plus/minus display at 2 o’clock. An equation of time display ties the watch to the cycles of the sun, complete with a hand-carved rotor depicting the sun (in gold), moon and stars.
In the history of fine watchmaking, perhaps the most mystical and precious complication of all has been the equation of time. An equation of time display ties the watch to the cycle of the sun. For convenience, humans have defined the day to be exactly 24 hours in length.
Faithful to that definition, watches from the most humble inexpensive quartz watch to the most prized mechanical marvel measure time according to that defined standard. In reality, however, the defined 24-hour day is a convenience, an average, that serves most purposes well but does not correspond exactly to the actual length of a solar day. Because the earth’s orbit is not exactly round and because the earth’s axis of rotation is inclined by 23 degrees, the actual solar day may be several minutes longer or shorter, depending on the time of year, than 24 hours.
The difference between the length of the actual solar day, termed “solar time”, and the 24-hour day, termed “civil time”, is called the equation of time. The accumulated differences between civil time and solar time can be as much as +14 minutes and –16 minutes; on four days per year the errors catch up and the solar time and civil time correspond exactly.
Two centuries ago, fascination with the sun and this phenomenon of a day which varies in length inspired watch and clockmakers to record this time difference, the equation of time, on the face of a timepiece. Since then the equation complication has been reserved for only the most important watches and clocks. In the early development of equation of time movements, two methods of recording the time difference were conceived. The more simple of the two is a display of the difference between solar and civil time on a plus/minus scale. Far more complicated was the second, an équation marchante movement.
With the équation marchante or “running equation” movement, a second minutes-hand is added indicating solar time. This offers the advantage that the solar time can be directly read from the face of the watch. The difference can also be discerned from the difference between the solar minutes hand and the conventional civil minutes-hand. Equation of time displays in wristwatches have always been extraordinarily rare and, following the tradition developed over two centuries with pocket watches and clocks, they have been incorporated in only the most refined of timepieces. However, working in the small dimensions of a wristwatch, the equation complication has, until now, only been of the more simplified plus/minus scale variety.
In 2004, Blancpain debuted a revolutionary equation of time watch, the Equation du Temps Marchante. Blancpain’s watchmakers undertook to bring to wristwatches, for the first time, the rare and difficult running equation complication that had existed only in large clocks and pocket watches. To do this they had to design an innovative gear train, with an ingenious differential that combines the running of the equation gear train controlled by a complex-shaped cam and the running train of the watch’s civil minutes-hand, to drive the running equation hand. In addition, Calibre 3863 provides a plus/minus scale equation display.
There is extraordinary complexity in the calendar mechanism of Calibre 3863, which must combine a perpetual calendar with the equation of time train and the normal minute train of the watch. A patented differential system was specially developed for the watch. Of particular interest, at 6 o’clock, is the ellipsoidal wheel which calculates the length of the solar day according to month.
As befits this extraordinary wristwatch, Blancpain combined these two separate equation displays with an innovative retrograde moon phase indication and a complete perpetual calendar. The decoration of the movement celebrates this achievement with a special hand carving of the bridges and a meticulously hand-fashioned winding rotor bearing an artist’s image of the sun.
In 2005, as part of its celebration of the 270th Anniversary of its founding, Blancpain unveiled a limited edition set, the Apotheosis Temporis. Inspired by the Six Masterpieces released nearly two decades earlier, the Apotheosis Temporis Set incorporated all of the classic complications from the Six Masterpieces and added two more Blancpain signature complications: a dual time zone watch and a running equation of time perpetual calendar watch.
The equation of time addition is particularly significant as it represents a world first achieved by Blancpain a year earlier when it debuted the first wristwatch ever to incorporate this complex mechanism. Further underscoring its complication prowess, Blancpain endowed the entire Apotheosis Temporis collection with automatic winding.
All eight pieces in the set, Ultra Slim, Time Zone, Moon Phase Calendar, Perpetual Calendar with Correctors Hidden under the Lugs, Single Push-button Chronograph with Split-seconds, Tourbillon, Equation Marchante Pure and Minute Repeater were turned out in platinum, with special black dials reserved for the collection, and featured winding rotors unique to the set. Done in the Villeret Collection style, this limited edition, which sold out immediately, featured a custom eight-rotor winding box to house the collection. Crafted from 950 Platinum, the watch case measures 38mm diameter.
The APOTHEOSIS TEMPORIS Set consists of platinum versions following watch models:-
Ultraplate (Ultra Slim)
Quantième à Phases de Lune (Moon Phase Calendar)
Quantième Perpétuel avec Correcteurs sous cornes (Perpetual Calendar with Correctors Hidden under the Lugs)
Chronographe Monopoussoir à Rattrapante (Single Push-button Chronograph with Split-seconds)
Introduced in 2000 by Swiss watch brand MAURICE LACROIX, this high complication watch from the prestigious Masterpiece collection combines a split-seconds chronograph and annual calendar. The steel case has a pink gold bezel and is fitted with a solid silver dial pierced with the brand’s exclusive large date window at 12 o’clock and the month window between 4 and 5. The hand-decorated movement is visible through the transparent back.
Automatic ML 15, based on an ETA 2892-A2 calibre
Hand-decorated, 49 jewels, blued steel screws
The Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 5002 , the large professional pilot’s watch made by IWC in 2002 is a historically important timepiece that represents a high point in traditional watchmaking: with a Pellaton winding mechanism and a seven-day automatic movement.
Everything about it is out of the ordinary: the mechanical automatic movement, the seven-day power reserve, the solid case, the dial and the hands, and even the crown.
The Big Pilot’s Watch, with its imposing 46 mm case diameter, 15.8 mm height and a take-off weight of 150 grams – including a leather strap and folding clasp – embodied a new dimension of professionalism in the market for oversize watches intended for aviation. When it launched, it was the second largest IWC wristwatch produced in the history of the factory. The historic Big Pilot’s Watch (52-calibre T.S.C.) launched in 1940 was the largest wristwatch ever made at IWC in Schaffhausen.
Externally at least, it traces its roots back to a navigation watch with a modified pocket watch movement produced for military pilots in 1940, which today commands record prices as a collector’s item. The heart of the Big Pilot’s Watch is IWC factory calibre 5011, an exclusive watch drive mechanism in the superlative class.
Pawl Winding Mechanism
The principle of the pawl winding mechanism already developed by the horological genius Albert Pellaton in Schaffhausen at the end of the forties has been revived in the calibre 5000 and its descendants. This technical solution, in which reciprocating pawls act on a toothed wheel and the smallest movement of the arm is also utilized for winding the watch, had for decades assured the technological superiority of IWC automatic watches.
For example, this system is not subject to the familiar wear in the rotor bearings and reduction gear of other designs. The rotor itself is even spring mounted. The Pellaton winding mechanism is thus regarded as being unmatched to this day thanks to its robustness, ease of servicing and efficiency.
That is not all, however: a new addition to the calibre 5000 family is the layout of the spring, the barrel and the entire design of the full seven-day power reserve. All the parts, on which such spring forces act, are dimensioned accordingly.
A long self-contained power reserve of this kind necessarily includes a clear power reserve display on the dial. This incorporates a special IWC feature: an integrated differential drive mechanism with a mechanical stop device arrests the movement before the force of the spring runs down fully, more specifically after precisely 168 hours or seven days.
The watch could, in fact, continue to run for more than one extra day with the remaining spring energy. But it will be stopped after a week, if no kinetic energy is supplied to it, to ensure that the accuracy remains stable from the first to the last minute. Behind this intricate design lies the horological consideration that the physically unavoidable and unfavourable end torque of the mainspring must not be permitted to make its effect felt in this way. The power of IWC can thus be translated as: 168 hours’ accuracy.
Additional details, such as the screw balance with its Breguet spring, adjustment cams on the balance limbs and 18 000 semi oscillations, also identify this advanced school of precision watchmaking. A particularly intricate means of precision adjustment was adopted from the old “Ingenieur” watch.
Even the escapement of this horological oversize calibre originates from the Mark XI which, as an official pilot’s watch, had previously passed all the quality and accuracy tests of the Royal Air Force for a “Navigator Wrist Watch”. All of this together endows the Big Pilot’s Watch with effortless chronometer accuracy. Without a certificate.
The design of the movement of this pilot’s watch was extended to include a date display at “6 o’clock” with quick changing in a forward direction and the central seconds hand that is essential for aeronautical use, the drive for which does not lie directly in the power flux of the train. Consideration was also given to small and important details: on the seventh day of operation of the power reserve or, to put it another way, after 165 hours, the date changes three hours before the movement is stopped mechanically, so that the change sequence continues to take place with entire reliability.
Optimal protection against magnetic fields for the movement
Professionalism in the case of the Big Pilot’s Watch naturally also includes optimal protection against magnetic fields, which extends far beyond the standard of 4800 A/m for antimagnetic watches. The Big Pilot’s Watch has been tested up to 32 000 A/m – while still retaining full efficiency.
In order to achieve these fantastic values, use is made of a soft iron inner case of the kind already utilized by IWC in pilot’s watches in 1940, in the first “big” pilot’s watch, which provides all-round screening for the movement. This naturally also had its effect on the case dimensions. The dial, movement ring and a double back are all made from this ferromagnetic material, which absorbs all magnetic fields which may influence the watch and in so doing keeps them from the actual movement mechanism.
The small date window is the only remaining minimal point of entry for magnetic forces. IWC had also attempted, in its early Ingenieur models, to close this opening with date display rings made of soft iron. However, the resulting new problems (weight) encountered when changing the date were not in an acceptable proportion to the additional protection afforded.
The soft iron cage and the associated extreme protection against magnetic fields is no “ideological” whim of the IWC engineers, but has since become a quality feature of all particularly durable watch production. This was an absolute must in the confined surroundings of the cockpits of older aircraft in particular with their numerous electrical devices. In our everyday lives, in which we are surrounded by more or less strong magnetic fields from countless electrical devices, such screening of the watch movements is an important condition for accurate running.
All technical features of this watch thus adhere uncompromisingly to a single requirement: airworthiness. And this means robustness, reliability and full functionality, including under the most unfavourable conditions. The dial and indices are coated with Superluminova.
The sapphire glass is specially protected against a sudden drop in air pressure and is anti-reflecting, in order to ensure legibility of the watch under all conditions. In a modern interpretation of the specification, a top-class pilot’s watch includes the aforementioned date display with quick setting, large seconds hand, screw-in back, screw-in crown and tested water-resistance to 60 metres.
The Big Pilot’s Watch from IWC has a similarly named predecessor with a wartime past. It is a legend among connoisseurs, because between 1940 and 1945 there were only a few hundred of these watches in their grey stainless steel case with the modified, gold-plated precision calibre 52 S.C. (for Centre Seconde) pocket watch movement.
This “oversize device” produced for the German Air Force according to the criteria for military observation watches (B watches) was, with a case diameter of 55 mm, a height of 16.5 mm and a weight of 183 grams, the largest “wristwatch” ever produced by IWC.
Its long leather strap allowed it to be worn by the pilot in an easily readable position on top of his flying suit. And the above-mentioned principle of a movement completely encapsulated in soft iron was used here for the first time in a wristwatch. Yet it was neither water resistant nor shock-proof.
The Big Pilot’s Watch adheres to the tradition of the navigation watches and observation watches in pocket watch format for navigational purposes (calibre 52, calibre 67, and calibre 71) that were already being produced by IWC for the German and British Admiralties at the start of the twentieth century.
Its characteristic protection against magnetic fields also has its roots in early railway watches and, in particular, a pocket watch with a soft iron inner case first produced for the Berlin tramways between ca. 1920 and1930. As a pilot’s watch with particular specifications it can be traced back to the first pilot’s watch, the Mark IX from1930, and naturally to the first “big” pilot’s watch, several hundred examples of which were supplied to the German Air Force from 1940 onwards.
Of the 1200 calibre 52 S.C. (for Centre Seconde) movements produced, a proportion was fitted in an additional oversize observation watch and a smaller number in pocket watches for military use. This “navigation watch” (observation watch, Class I) produced by IWC in line with military criteria, each of which was subjected to individual testing at the German Marine Observatory, was the first IWC wristwatch to incorporate a ferromagnetic inner case as protection against magnetic fields.
The case dimensions (diameter 55 mm, height16.5 mm) conformed to the requirements of the military procurement office. Apart from IWC, only A. Lange & Söhne, LACO, STOWA and Wempe manufactured this particularly demanding type of pilot’s watch.
A movement component with a critical role in the escapement of the 2002 the Big Pilot’s Watch was also adopted by the next generation of post-war pilot’s watches (Mark XI): this was the screw balance with adjusting cams and Breguet balance spring beating at 18 000 semi oscillations. The Mark XI (1948-1984) has passed all the “navigator’s wrist watch” tests with flying colours.
Significant references to the past are combined in the Big Pilot’s Watch and are associated in particular with the development of a distinctive automatic movement at the end of the forties by the Technical Director of IWC at the time, Albert Pellaton. His patented design for a winding mechanism operating via a cam disc, ruby ferrules and click springs established the 85 family of calibres, which continued to be improved and developed until the mid seventies culminating in the legendary calibre 8541.
This watch drive mechanism helped the Ingenieur range in particular, but also the Yacht Club and other models, to achieve considerable success. The revival of this patented and proven mechanism, exclusively identifiable with IWC, was an important objective of the new family of calibres developed by IWC.
Produced in a stainless steel and a limited series of a 500 pieces in platinum.
Model: IWC Schaffhausen Big Pilot’s Watch Ref. 5002
Professional pilot’s watch with automatic movement, patented Pellaton winding mechanism, barrel drum for a theoretical 8.5 day power reserve after being fully wound, with power reserve display, date, hour, minute and large seconds hands, mechanical stopping of the movement after 168 hours, or 7 days, to prevent variations in the escapement caused by the effect of the end torque of the spring. Reference: 5002, The Big Pilot’s Watch of IWC
IWC calibre 5011, year of manufacture 2001
Movement dimensions: 38.2 mm x 7.44 mm at the centre
Number of parts: 334 component parts in 53 sub-assemblies
Number of functional jewels: 44 functional synthetic rubies, including 35 different jewel bearings. Train: 57 interconnections, special feature. Seconds wheel situated beneath the escape wheel, and the train with one additional wheel (eight-day wheel) compared with a conventional train; indirect large seconds and indirect minute, i.e. the drive for both pinions does not take place in the direct power flux of the train.
Spring barrel: barrel made of Aluminium S-Korofestal (AIMgSi1), artificially aged, anodized, teeth screwed on separately, mainspring with bridle made of Nivaflex1, spring barrel – minute wheel multiplication 1:15, spring barrel ca. 13.6 revolutions when fully wound. One revolution of the spring barrel = 15 hours power reserve. Theoretical power reserve: 13.6 x15 hours = 204 hours (8.5 days). Ca. 12rotor revolutions = 1 hour power reserve.
Power reserve display: differential gears with inputs for winding up and running down and output for power reserve display. Mechanical stopping of the movement after 168 hours (7 days).
Winding mechanism: Pellaton pawl winding system, identical with the winding mechanism used in IWC calibre8541, via a spring-mounted rotor, cam disc, ruby ferrules and 2 pawls on a pawl wheel; reduction: 175:1.
Escapement: two-armed screw balance with 16 adjusting screws and 2 adjusting cams on the balance arms (IWC special feature), in the form of a “sage leaf” (or bird’s tongue) arm. Balance wheel, pallet fork and escape wheel identical with IWC 89 calibre. Nivarox 1 balance spring with Breguet curve, “chronometer” quality,18 000 semi oscillations: per hour 18 000 A/h= 2.5 Hertz (Hz).
Shock-absorber: Incabloc system
IWC precision adjustment: stud carrierand regulator stem are adjusted with cams, identically with IWC calibre 8541.
Date: conventional jump-type date change(ca. 1 hour), quick change forwards via crown, last date change is possible until in conjunction with the movement running down after 165 hours.
Movement decoration: bridges and bottom plate nickel-plated, engraving gold plated, decoration of the “circular rib” type, bridge edges diamond-cut, typical IWC rotor (without gold medallion) with gold-plated “Probus Scafusia” engraving, main plain edges, crown wheels, ratchet wheel, spring barrel cover and differential wheel with sun pattern finish.
Special steel with screw-in back, anti-reflecting sapphire glass
Case variant: Platinum with screw-in back and anti-reflecting sapphire glass
Protection against magnetic fields: soft iron inner case (dial, movement ring and inner back), effectiveness up to 32 000 A/m without loss of function tested by the Straumann Institute (standard value for antimagnetic watches: 4800 A/m).
Crown: screw-in, especially user-friendly crown for winding the movement (after stopping), date change forwards and hand setting with seconds stop function.
Security: minimum water-resistance up to 6 bar = 60 metres, shock resistance to NIHS standard.
matt black, Arabic numerals, white indices, luminous, executed in Superluminova C1 (dark blue dial for the platinum variant).
Hands: original arrow shape of the first“big” pilot’s watch from 1940, skeletonized, inlaid with Superluminova C1.
Buffalo, dark brown, with rivets as in the first “big” pilot’s watch strap from 1940, (Platinum: buffalo, dark blue, without rivets), in each case with secure button closure.
Total weight of the watch with strap and button closure
– Stainless steel model: ca. 150 grams
– Platinum model: ca. 220 grams.
Stainless steel version: unlimited
Platinum variant: 500 pieces.
Launched in 2005, the BREITLING for Bentley Mulliner Tourbillon Chronograph is an extraordinary timepiece that embodies a blend of technology and tradition.The Mulliner Tourbillon chronograph is also a rare and indeed extremely rare model, since only a few pieces made each year.
Behind the closed doors of the prestigious Mulliner workshop at the Bentley factory in Crewe, a hundred or so craftsmen and technicians lavish the utmost care on fulfilling the most specific wishes of Bentley owners.
While exclusivity comes at a price, it also brings its share of privileges, since each Mulliner Tourbillon is customized by its future owner. According to his personal preferences, he can choose the type of case – in platinum or in yellow, rose or white gold – the dial colour or the exact shade of the crocodile leather strap. Even the precious wood decoration on the back of the watch comes in a choice of six types of veneer. This masterpiece also has an exceptional heart in the shape of hand-wound Breitling Caliber 18B, a Tourbillon chronograph movement exclusive to “ Breitling for Bentley ”. The tourbillon is a sophisticated mechanism constituting one of the most ingenious mechanical watch complications: the balance, balance-spring and escapement are contained within a carriage spinning on its axis, a construction which compensates for the variations in rate that occur when a watch is in a vertical position.
This is not the only special feature of this mechanism: its “30-second ” type chronograph mechanism is distinguished by its central hand revolving around the dial in half a minute instead of the usual 60 seconds; this apparently surprising configuration enables extremely precise read-off for the fractions of a second, in this case 1/6ths. It is also endowed with a 15-minute totalizer and a pointer-type date display.
Each automobile that emerges from the Mulliner workshops is unique… and such is also true of each Mulliner Tourbillon, thus guaranteeing its owner the certainty that he will never see an identical watch. Each hour-marker on the dial is fashioned from natural hand-crafted mother-of-pearl.
Both literally and figuratively, each Mulliner Tourbillon carries the hallmark of its owner, including his initials engraved on one of the movement bridges. Protected by a sapphire crystal, the precious wooden ring is available in the same shades and veneers as the Bentley Mulliner trim: burr walnut, dark stained burr walnut, madrona, birds eye maple, burr oak, olive ash. The countless ways of personalising a Mulliner Tourbillon chronograph are directly inspired by those offered by the Bentley Mulliner workshops in Crewe.
Hours, minutes, seconds, pointer-type date display, 30-second chronograph functions with hand sweeping the dial in half a minute (providing 1/6th of a second display), 15-minute totalizer, rotation pinion bezel with variable tachometer (circular slide rule)
Platinum, 750 (18K) yellow, rose or white gold
Domed antiglare sapphire crystal
Back with precious wood surround in a choice of six veneers to match those
used by Bentley
Water-resistant to 100 m
A choice of colour, hand-cut mother-of-pearl hour markers
Crocodile strap (in a choice of colours) or metal bracelet
It is almost impossible to find an original Rolex watch with a transparent crystal (sapphire or mineral) case-back. In general, all flagship watch models from the legendary Swiss watch manufacture feature solid metal case back whereas other luxury watch brands provide sapphire crystal case back for their watches so that the owner can admire the beauty of mechanical movement beating inside.
Many people believe that Rolex never produced watches with transparent glass case back. But it is not the truth. To confirm this, let us go through the details of a watch model named Cellini Prince.
Introduced in 2005, the Cellini Prince watch features an in house fitted sapphire crystal case back.
Origins of this watch can be traced back to roaring 20s. In 1928, Rolex created the Prince, which achieved great success and earned a place in horological history for its chronometric precision. This Art Deco inspired rectangular timepiece was a popular dress watch during its time. However, Rolex ceased the production of Prince watch models in the late 1940s.
With its avant-garde rectangular shape and the outstanding performance of its movement, the Prince is a watch of distinction. The unique positioning of the hands on two separate counters, one for hours and minutes and the other for seconds, was patented by Rolex. In 2005, Rolex re-launched the Prince watch collection in four different models with in the Cellini collection.
The Rolex Prince collection reflects the art of watchmaking at its best as much as design in its purest sense. It is both a precise mechanical instrument and an achievement in aesthetics. It exemplifies aesthetic consistency among the movement, case and dial. Born of a team effort bringing together Rolex’s world-class designers and technical experts specialising in the movement, case and dial, it meets the demands of exquisite beauty and optimal performance.
Unfortunately, in 2015, production of the Cellini Prince watch was ceased by Rolex. The new generation models available in the market belong to the Cellini Prince collection introduced in 2005 and produced till 2015.
This Prince watch introduced in 2005 houses a manual-wound mechanical movement – the 7040 calibre – specially developed and manufactured by Rolex. Rectangular in shape, it uses all the space to ensure precision and performance and to give free rein to the decoration of the bridges with designs identical to those on the dial. The movement is equipped with a new shock-absorbing bearing, the Paraflex, an essential component for the reliability of the product. COSC-certified as a Swiss chronometer, it features a 72-hour power reserve.
On the dial, hours and minutes are displayed separately above the seconds. The guilloche decoration on each timepiece requires high technology and a redefinition of the art of watch decoration. Guilloche decoration is an art and will always remain an art. The various patterns – “godron”, “clou de Paris” and “rayon flammé de la gloire” – each give the dial a unique look.
Crafted from gold (Models available in 18 ct yellow, white or Everose gold), the rectangular shaped case looks like a fuselage. For the first time, a Rolex movement is on show. A transparent caseback reveals a guilloche decoration on the movement echoing that on the dial. The leather strap has been fitted with a gold butterfly clasp, giving the watch perfect balance.
The Rolex Prince Ref. 5441/9: In 18 ct white gold features a silver “godron” dial, two displays, Roman numerals and simple markings.
The Rolex Prince Ref. 5440/8 : In 18 ct yellow gold features a champagne “clou de Paris” dial, two displays, Roman numerals on the hours and minutes display and Arabic numerals on the seconds display.
The Rolex Prince Ref. 5442/5: In 18 ct Everose gold features a black and pink “rayon flammé de la gloire” dial, and Arabic numerals on both displays which join in the centre.
The Rolex Prince Ref. 5443/9: In 18 ct white gold features a black and silver “rayon flammé de la gloire” dial, two displays, Arabic numerals, simple markings and red minute markings.
Gübelin “Turbulences” is a Tourbillon pocket watch conceived and made by the master watchmakers Richard Daners and Marion Müller in 2004 , to celebrate the 150th anniversary of Lucerne-based Jewellery and watch business group Gübelin (1854-2004).
It has a construction that even amongst watchmakers has been deemed impossible: a tourbillon that rotates around three axles in a rectangular position to each other.
The tourbillon, invented by Abraham Louis Breguet in 1795, even today represents one of the greatest challenges any traditional master watchmaker can think of. The watchmaker of Swiss origin, probably the most famous of his kind, had devised the construction in his Paris workshops in order to gain the utmost in precision from his pocket watches.
The constant influence of the earth’s gravity resulted in a lack of precision of the watches that were usually worn in a vertical position in vests and jackets. This default is due to the fact that it is virtually impossible to counterbalance the balance wheel and its hairspring. Breguet’s tourbillon put an end to this problem by guaranteeing that balance wheel, hairspring and escapement fulfil one rotation around their common axis, thereby neutralizing all inherent balance errors.
This rule still applies today, however only if the watch is always worn in a vertical position. Richard Daners and Marion Müller have built a tourbillon that eliminates the so-called gravitational error, no matter in which position the watch is worn. By creating this masterpiece the Gübelin ateliers demonstrated their willingness to venture upon the challenge of the impossible.
The difficulty of developing a tourbillon on three axes only becomes obvious if one realizes how tiny the forces are at the end of the gear train of a mechanical movement. The escape wheel that transmits its impulse to the balance wheel via the pallets has just enough strength to move the tip of an eider down.
The movement of the golden pocket watch is symmetrical in its construction and is driven by two spring barrels under one common bridge. The gears are mostly hidden in order not to draw the attention from the three-dimensional tourbillon. Like a skeletized globe it is suspended freely above an opening in the base plate.
Viewing the dial of the watch the delicate tourbillon can be seen through this circular hole. It is only from the rear that one discerns the whole glory of the mechanism. A large transparent caseback made of mineral glass allows a breathtaking view of the tourbillon’s complexity.
The see-through cage is driven via an invisible circular cogwheel sustained by a large precision ball bearing, arranged around the opening in the base plate. The lightweight cage turns around the first axis, perpendicular to the plate once in 135 seconds. It takes it 45 seconds to turn in its second axis.
The escapement finally, situated in the innermost cage, accomplishes one full turn in a minute. Its axis again is always at a right angle to the second axis. Thus the observer sees an ever-changing image in continuous motion. The differences in running time of the three cages have the effect that it takes nine minutes until they all come back to their initial position for just one short moment.
The main cage of the tourbillon is suspended on one side only, which results in a so-called flying tourbillon. Therefore the axis on which it turns is invisible. By this the construction obtains a mysterious weightlessness. While trying to follow the complex movements of the tourbillon the observer will become aware of how his or her eyes try to dive into the gears to comprehend what can be seen. This is no easy task, seeing that we are used to gear trains with parallel axles, but none in which their position continually changes.
To round off the complexity of their masterpiece the two Gübelin watchmakers have equipped their escapement with a device that furnishes it with a constant amount of energy independent from the force stored in the spring barrels.
The contrivance relies on the principle of inertia and is a solution that is equally ingenious as simple, based on a 1943 invention by Henry Jeanneret. It ensures that the escape wheel at the moment of release does not get its force directly from the spring barrels, but indirectly from a spiralled hairspring that acts similarly as a buffer in computer technology.
It is regularly armed via the gear train as soon as the escape wheel is stopped again. If it were not for the hairspring, the escape wheel would rotate freely on its pinion. The pinion bears a small platinum weight whose inertia guarantees that the entire gear train only starts moving with a certain delay after the release of the escape wheel.
At the moment of its release the escape wheel, armed by the spiral spring, immediately hurries off, only being followed by its pinion when it has already stopped again.
Gübelin-Patek Philippe jubilee watch- Calatrava Travel Time is a special edition timepiece created in 2004 on the occasion of 150th anniversary of Swiss jewellery and watch house Gübelin.
Legendary Swiss watch maker Patek Philippe has joined hands with Gübelin to produce this edition of the popular dual time zone watch, Calatrava Travel Time, in a limited series.
Travel Time unites the classic form of the Calatrava line with the complication of a movement that simultaneously indicates the time in two different time zones. It is the ideal watch for professional globetrotters, as it is strikingly simple to operate.
People who frequently travel long distances by air know how difficult it can be to keep track of the time at home as well as the local time. Two easily distinguishable hour hands display the time in each of the time zones and a small 24-hour subsidiary dial provides day/night information for your home time. The local time can be set easily by pressing the two buttons in the caseband, which move the corresponding hand forward or backward depending on the direction one is traveling across the globe.
The Calatrava Travel Time features the manually wound caliber 215 PS FUS, and like all Patek Philippe creations, it is decorated by hand with painstaking care and bears the prestigious Geneva Seal. The elegant watchcase of Calatrava Travel Time is water resistant. The jubilee watch collection was produced in four different variations in a limited series of 180.
Gübelin and Patek Philippe names are engraved on the specially designed dial, which comes in the colors brown, blue, silver and black. Other distinguishing features include the straight-sided bâton hour hands and massive-design indices. The transparent sapphire crystal caseback bears the Gübelin emblem and is dedicated “Gübelin 1854 – 2004”.
50 pieces were produced in yellow gold with a brown dial, 45 in white gold with a blue dial, 45 in rose gold with a silver-colored dial and 40 in platinum with a black dial.
Model: Gübelin-Patek Philippe jubilee watch Calatrava Travel Time – Ref. 5134
Caliber 215 PS FUS 24H
Mechanical movement, manually wound
Overall diameter: 21.90 mm
Height: 3.35 mm
Number of parts: 178
Number of jewels: 18
Power reserve: Approx. 44 hours
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour
Balance spring: Flat
Hallmark: Geneva Seal
Dual hour display for local and home time, minutes, seconds
Subsidiary dials: 24-hour display (home time) at 12 o’clock and seconds at 6 o’clock
18K yellow, rose or white gold or platinum
Sapphire crystal caseback secured with screws
2 buttons in the caseband for operating the time zone mechanism
Case extension ridges for protecting the crown
Dimensions: Diameter :37 mm ; Height: 9.8 mm
Water resistance: To 25 meters
Silver, brown, blue or black with applied indices in gold to match the case
Bâton hand in gold for the display of hours in local time, the small seconds display and the 24-hour day/night information for home time
Bâton hand in matte yellow, rose or white gold for the display of hours in home time
Handmade alligator band, Folding clasp in 18K yellow, rose or white gold or platinum with Calatrava cross
Suggested prices during launch in 2004
Yellow gold : CHF 20,100
Rose and white gold: CHF 21,400
Platinum: CHF 34,000
The Clement Gillman collection by independent Swiss watch brand Jean-Mairet & Gillman boasts classic good looks, the rounded case shape and double crown make it both practical and elegant at the same time.
Its inspiration is taken from the other side of Cesar- Jean-Mairet’s ancestral family tree, the Gillmans, who trace their roots back to a family of scientists who travelled the world during the Victorian ages. Among them was Clement Gillman, who was the first man to climb Mount Kilimanjaro. Fitting then to create this world timer, with has such elegance and charm, reflecting the strong heritage of the brand.
The collection uses the automatic JMG 1999 calibre with power reserve of 42 hours. It has alarm function, date (positioned at 4), and a second time zone at 12. Its case is made of either rose, yellow gold, white gold, or stainless steel with a diameter of 41mm. On a beautifully hand stitched crocodile leather strap, the Clement Gillman range is the sophisticated choice for the world traveller.
Case of 41mm in stainless steel, hand polished, crystal back
Automatic caliber JMG 1999 with a power reserve of 42 hours
Hours, minutes, seconds, date at 4 and second time zone at 12, alarm function
Lacquered dial available in black, white or chocolate
Bezel may be set in diamonds or coloured precious stones
Strap in handstitched crocodile leather with folding clasp
Launched by GOLDPFEIL GENEVE in 2002 in association with Switzerland based watchmaker Bernhard Lederer, this exclusive timepiece was inspired by the configuration of the historical regulators and unites a number of highly useful functions. The central arrow hand marks the minutes.
The second central hand, in a half-moon shape, indicates the weeks around the outer edge of the dial. The hour is read off a small dial at 12 o’clock, with a second time zone included on the dial at 6 o’clock. Two windows show the day and the date. The case is in yellow gold and the bezel set with diamonds. The automatic movement has an eccentric rotor system specially developed by the craftsman.
Automatic, with an eccentric rotor system
Hours, minutes, day,week, date, second time zone
750 (18K) yellow gold
Bezel set with diamonds
Sapphire crystal and back
Water-resistant to 30 m
Engine-turned solid silver, hands in blued steel
Hand-sewn alligator leather with a buckle in yellow gold
Launched in 2002 by GOLDPFEIL GENEVE in association with Thomas Baumgartner, this exclusive mechanical watch has a distinctively contemporary look. The curved case in white gold, with the crown mounted at 6 o’clock, attracts attention through its original architecture.
The dark blue rectangular dial, with its engine-turned decoration, boasts appliqué numerals and generously-dimensioned “baton” hands; it shows the small seconds inside a recess positioned in a rectangle at 9 o’clock while the power reserve is displayed in the arc of a circle at 3 o’clock. This timepiece is equipped with a certified-chronometer, hand-wound mechanical movement.
Mechanical, manual winding, finely decorated, certified chronometer
Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve
750 (18K) brushed white gold
Cambered sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 30 m
Engine-turned, dark blue, with baton handsand appliqué numerals
Hand-sewn alligator leather with a white gold buckle
The widely used Gregorian calendar was introduced in 1582 by Pope Gregory XIII in replacement of the Julian calendar. The new system adopted the year of 365 days with a leap year of 366 days every 4 years that had already been fixed by Julius Caesar but it revealed to be inexact. Therefore Pope Gregory ordered a calendar reform with a correction of 10 days, whereby the 4th October 1582 of the Julian calendar was immediately followed by the 15th October 1582 of the Gregorian calendar.
He introduced also a special secular leap year cycle, i.e. only those secular years which are divisible by 400 are considered to be leap years. Therefore the secular years 1700, 1800, 1900, 2100, 2200, 2300 are not leap years and have only 28 days in February.
Watches with perpetual calendar usually have the normal leap year cycle. Exceptions are big astronomic clocks as well as two pocket watches made by Patek Philippe, one is the Calibre “89” and the other is a watch that was made in the seventies for an American collector. Those are already provided with a secular cycle.
Introduced in 1996, “PERPETUEL SECULAR CALENDER” Wristwatch by Svend Andersen Genève is considered as the first hundred percent perpetual calendar wristwatch.
The “PERPETUEL SECULAR CALENDER” Wristwatch is provided with a four years’ programme for the leap year cycle: a wheel with 48 teeth = 4 x 12 months, thus every 4 year the 29th February appears.
This wheel pushes a reduction wheel one tooth forward every 4 years. The reduction wheel divides the turning speed into two and hereby the secular wheel of 50 teeth is activated and moves on for one tooth every 8 years, e.g. 50 x 8 = 400. Thus, the secular wheel turns once in 400 years and is programmed for the future secular years: 2000 (with 29 Feb.), 2100 (28 Feb.), 2200 (28 Feb.), 2300 (28 Feb.) and 2400 (29 Feb.).
This is how the mechanical invisible under-dial life of the “PERPETUEL SECULAR CALENDER” Wristwatch works. In order to make these perpetual calendar functions visible and legible, the back side is provided with three dials:
Left: in black and blue, the 4 years’ leap year cycle Centre: the central hand showing 50 years in green; it turns 2x per century, e.g. 1996 shows 46 + 50 = 96 Right: in blue and red, the 400 years’ secular cycle.
Diameter : 40 mm
Thickness: 11 mm
Available in White/Pink Gold
Automatic chronometer movement
Introduced in 2004, the LANGE DOUBLE SPLIT chronograph watch from A. Lange & Söhne features two rattrapante hands – one for the seconds and one for the minutes to be stopped. What’s more, both chrono hands and both rattrapante hands are flyback hands.
The intricate complication of a rattrapante sweep-seconds hand in a chronograph has always been an awesome horological accomplishment for short-time measurements. Unfortunately, the possibility of taking a lap-time reading with the rattrapante sweep-seconds hand during an ongoing measurement was restricted to the 60-second scale and thus to laps of less than one minute.
In the LANGE DOUBLE SPLIT, the principle of the rattrapante sweep-seconds hand has been extended to the jumping minute counter. This means that for the first time ever, comparative lap measurements of up to 30 minutes are now possible in a classic, purely mechanical wristwatch. Also, the act of measuring a lap time does not have to be at the expense of a loss of amplitude when the chrono sweep-seconds hand continues to revolve while the rattrapante sweep-seconds hand is stopped. This is prevented by a patented disengagement mechanism developed by “A. Lange & Söhne”.
The LANGE DOUBLE SPLIT was inspired by the technical refinements once before integrated in a Lange double-rattrapante pocket watch that dates back to the late 19th century.
Buoyed by the success story of the DATOGRAPH that began in 1999, the engineers systematically evolved an already ingenious timekeeping instrument to create an incomparable horological masterpiece in a platinum case with a diameter of 43 millimetres. They endowed this landmark timepiece with all of the major innovations and complications that since then have been devised at the Lange manufactory in Glashütte.
This includes a new balance wheel developed in-house by Lange. Designed for a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour, it is equipped with eccentric poising weights instead of inertia screws. It is powered by a top-quality balance spring which was also developed in-house by Lange and is manufactured on site. It, too, features a technical novelty: It is not attached to a hairspring stud but instead is secured by a patented balance-spring clamp. Inaugurated in 2003, the manufactory’s new Technology and Development Centre has been pursuing the kind of fundamental research that Richard Lange, the oldest son of company founder Ferdinand Adolph Lange, embarked upon in 1930 with his patent No. 529945 concerning a “metal alloy for balance springs”, an invention that since then has found global acceptance. He discovered that the sensitivity of hairsprings to temperature fluctuations could be reduced and their flexibility enhanced with the addition of beryllium. Since establishment, Lange is one of only a few companies in the world that master the latest-generation processes needed to manufacture balance springs. All these assets are embodied in the LANGE DOUBLE SPLIT, a very special and exclusive horological accomplishment.
With its manually wound calibre L001.1 movement, the LANGE DOUBLE SPLIT is first and foremost a watch that indicates the hours and minutes on its two-tiered black solid-silver dial, the seconds on its silvery subsidiary dial on the left-hand side, and the power reserve with an indicator beneath the Roman “XII”. The small seconds dial, the also silvery 30-minute counter dial of the chronograph on the right-hand side and the up and down indicator constitute the corners of an equilateral triangle, a typical characteristic of the architecture of Lange dials.
The chronograph function: When the owner presses the start/stop push piece of the chronograph, subtly rounded to accent the classic circular case, the LANGE DOUBLE SPLIT becomes a “watch in the watch”. This action sets the slender gold-plated chrono sweep-seconds hand in motion. When the same push piece is pressed again, the hand stops. When the zero-reset push piece at 4 o’clock is pressed, the sweep-seconds hand returns to the 12 o’clock position.The chrono minute counter: Each time the chrono sweep-seconds hand crosses the 12 o’clock marker – not before and not afterwards – the gold chrono minute counter advances by one minute marker. Thus, in the “grey zone” on either side of the zero passage of the sweep-seconds hand, there is never any uncertainty as to the accuracy of a measurement.
The flyback function: While the chronograph mechanism is running, both chronograph hands can be instantly reset to zero by pressing the push piece at 4 o’clock. When this push piece is released, the chrono sweep-seconds hand restarts immediately. Its minute counter will advance by one marker precisely one minute later. This so-called flyback device makes it possible to initiate a new measurement without delay. With simple chronographs, the same effect requires the actuation of the start/stop push piece to stop the hands the actuation of the zero-reset push piece to return the hands to the home position, and the renewed actuation of the start/stop push piece to start the next measurement. The flyback mechanism bundles all of these interventions into one actuation. The idea for this mechanism dates back to an epoch in which pilots needed to co-ordinate speed, rudder position, and time to fly curves, and fast reactions were needed.
The rattrapante function: A further hand is located above the chrono sweep-seconds hand and over the chrono minute-counter hand. The rattrapante sweep-seconds hand, made of rhodiumed steel, hovers over the chrono sweep-seconds hand and the blued steel rattrapante minute-counter hand lies a hair’s breadth above the chrono minute counter hand. During an ongoing time measurement, the rattrapante hands can be used for a separate lap time measurement at any given moment. This is how it works: When the start/stop push piece at 2 o’clock is pressed, both pairs of hands are set in motion simultaneously. The rattrapante push piece at 10 o’clock is pressed to measure the first time. The rattrapante sweep seconds hand stops instantly, displaying the measured lap time. For the second measurement, the start/stop push piece is pressed to stop the still-running chrono sweep-seconds hand. This allows the owner to note the second lap time as a separate result or to compare it with the first lap time. If more than two consecutive measurements are to be made after the hands have been collectively set in motion, the following procedure must be observed: The first lap time, stopped with the rattrapante push piece, must be memorised or written down. The renewed actuation of the push piece causes the rattrapante sweep-seconds hand to instantaneously catch up with the still-running chrono sweep-seconds hand. This process can be repeated as often as desired, as long as the chrono sweep-seconds hand is in motion and the aggregate time measurement has thus not been interrupted.
The rattrapante minute counter: The LANGE DOUBLE SPLIT has a chrono minute counter as well as a rattrapante minute counter. For this reason, the rattrapante time measuring range is not just 60 seconds as in conventional chronographs, but 30 minutes. Technically, this was achieved by duplicating the construction of the chrono/rattrapante wheel pair. In other words, the minute-counter wheel has a through bore that accommodates the shaft of the second rattrapante wheel. Since the LANGE DOUBLE SPLIT contains a chronograph mechanism with a precisely jumping minute counter, the rattrapante minute counter jumps as well. A lever mechanism developed by Lange especially for this purpose assures that it advances by only one minute at a time, at precisely the right moment.
Reference lap time measurement: If a lap time measured with the rattrapante hands is required as a reference time for further measurements, it can simply be “stored”. This is done by leaving the stopped rattrapante time untouched and by resetting the chrono sweep-seconds hand with the start/stop push piece followed by the zero-reset push piece – or instantaneously with the zero-reset push piece (flyback). The normal chronograph function can now be used to measure a reference lap time and compare it with the time displayed by the rattrapante hands. This process, too, can be repeated for any number of further reference lap times that might be needed.
Fastest/slowest lap measurement: Technology buffs will appreciate another function that allows the identification of minima and maxima – the fastest or slowest lap of all laps measured, for instance. To determine the fastest lap of a series, the first lap is stopped with the pair of rattrapante hands, the second with the pair of chronograph hands. At this point, both times need to be compared. If the lap time displayed by the chronograph hands is the shorter of the two, this value must be stored as the minimum, simply by pressing the rattrapante push piece twice in a row. The first actuation causes the rattrapante hands to line up with the chronograph hands, the second actuation freezes them there. If the lap time indicated by the rattrapante hands is shorter, no action is required. The hands can stay where they are.
The next lap can be timed – and if applicable, stored – by resetting, restarting, and restopping the chronograph hands. Conversely, to determine the slowest lap, the rattrapante push piece must be pressed twice if the time measured by the chronograph hands is greater. In both cases, the value displayed by the rattrapante hands at the end of a series of measurements is the extreme (maximum or minimum) of all stopped times.
The disengagement mechanism mentioned above, a Lange proprietary development, prevents the so far technically unavoidable amplitude drop in conventional constructions when the chronograph hands are running but the rattrapante hands are stopped. Normally, the sustained contact between the still-running heart-shaped rattrapante cams and the rattrapante heart levers creates friction losses and torque fluctuations. In the LANGE DOUBLE SPLIT, these annoying phenomena have been eliminated because disengagement wheels on the rattrapante centre wheel and on the rattrapante minute wheel separate both rattrapante heart levers from the still rotating heart-shaped cams. This has a beneficial influence on the rate accuracy of the movement. This makes the habitual use of the fascinating and very practical rattrapante function a delight that entails no regret, all the more as most of the complex mechanisms of this mechanical marvel can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback. It is hardly disputable that the LANGE DOUBLE SPLIT will push the emotions of connoisseurs around the world quite far up on the open-ended enthusiasm scale.
Lange manufacture calibre L001.1, manually wound;crafted, assembled, and decorated almost entirely by hand to the highest Lange quality standards; precision adjusted in five positions; plates and bridges made of untreated cross-laminated German silver; balance cock engraved by hand;Number of parts: 465;Jewels: 40;Screwed gold chatons: 4;Escapement: Lever escapement;Balance: New, shock-proofed Glucydur balance with eccentric poising weights; proprietary top-quality balance spring with an attachment (balance spring clamp) for which a patent registration has been filed; frequency 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour; precision beat adjuster with whiplash spring;Power reserve: 38 hours when fully wound.
World’s first flyback chronograph with double rattrapante, controlled by classic column wheels; precisely jumping chrono minute counter and rattrapante minute counter; flyback function; disengagement mechanism; hours, minutes, small seconds with stop seconds; power-reserve indicator; cumulative and lap-time measurements between 1/6th of a second and 30 minutes, tachometer scale
Crown for winding the watch and setting the time; two push pieces for operating the chronograph; one push piece for operating the rattrapante.
Case, dial & strap
Case: Diameter 43 mm, platinum
Glass and caseback: Sapphire crystal (hardness 9)
Dials: Solid silver, two-tiered, black
Hands: Yellow gold, rhodiumed gold, blued steel and rhodiumed steel
Straps: Hand-stitched crocodile straps with solid-platinum Lange prong buckle
Introduced in 1999 by Blancpain to the 10th anniversary of its split-seconds chronograph, this high complication wristwatch houses a tourbillon with an 8-day power reserve in addition to the Split-seconds Fly-back chronograph mechanism. It is also the eighth Blancpain complication.
Made in platinum in a limited series of 99 pieces, it indicates the hour on a sub-dial at 12 o’clock and the chronograph 30-minute and 12-hour functions at 3 and 9 o’clock respectively. The split-seconds chronograph hands are in the centre.
Equipped with Automatic CFB 1960 movement, this timepiece from Carl F. Bucherer combines three useful complications – chronograph, big date and power reserve – all in an elegant steel case in tonneau style. Its black dial features appliqué diamond hour luminous markers and luminescent hands.
A window at 12’o clock displays the date, and the power reserve indicator is positioned at 6’o clock. Fitted with cambered sapphire crystal, screw-down case back & screw-down crown, the Patravi Tonneaugraph offers water-resistance up to 50 meters.
Automatic CFB 1960
Circular-grained and Côtes de Genève decoration
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph, power reserve
Cambered sapphire crystal, screw-down back
Water-resistant to 50 m
Manufactured by Swiss watchmaker Jean-Mairet & Gillman, this sporty chronograph timepiece boasts luminescent indexes, a grande date at 12 o’clock, and a black rubber strap. Its hand-brushed and polished steel case gives it both an elegant and sporty look.
At its heart is a JMG automatic movement with column wheel chronograph, with a power reserve of more than 72 hours. This ChronoSport is COSC certified chronometer. The ruthenium or opalin dial give an impressive effect with the two appliqué counters of 30 and 60 minutes.
Case in hand-brushed and polished stainless steel
Diameter: 42 mm
Mechanical JMG 2006RAC/J8162 self-winding
COSC Certified Chronometer
72 hours power reserve
Hours, minutes, seconds, grande date, column wheel chronograph
Silver opalin or ruthenium dial
Appliquéd luminescent time markers
Grande date indicator at 12 o’clock.
30mm counter at 3 o’clock and 60mm counter à 9 o’clock
Launched in 2002 by Cédric Johner, this minute-repeater model in white gold houses an exceptional hand wound mechanical movement developed in association with Christophe Claret. The opening in the engine-turned dial affords a view of the system used to engage the striking mechanism for the hours, quarter-hours and minutes.
Each movement is meticulously finished, with bevelled bridges and wheels, stressing the unique spirit of this creation.
Model: CEDRIC JOHNER Abyss 4888/4 Minute-Repeater
Mechanical, hand-wound, Cédric Johner and Christophe Claret
18 000 V/h, 45-hour power reserve, artisan finish
Hours, minutes, and hour, quarter-hour and minute repeater
750 (18K) white gold, shaped by hand
Spherical sapphire crystal
This mechanical skeleton chronograph with a transparent back offers a spectacular dive into the heart of these fine watchmaking mechanics. Manufactured by Vallee de Joux based Swiss watch brand CLAUDE MEYLAN, this luxurious timepiece is equipped with a hand-wound chronograph movement dating from the Sixties, with a fully cut-away and hand-engraved column wheel. The highly sober case is in pink or white gold and the bracelet in crocodile leather.
Mechanical chronograph, hand-wound, with column wheel, angled steel parts, full skeleton design and hand-engraved
Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph
750 (18K) white gold
Sapphire crystal and back
Introduced in 2002, this elegant mechanical chronograph in 18-carat pink gold is equipped with a movement dating from the Fifties, with a column-wheel that is entirely hand-engraved. Produced in limited series of 90 watches, the enamel dial with its Twenties look bears the signature “Claude Meylan”, the traditional Swiss watch brand based in Vallee De Joux. The breathtaking view of inner mechanisms of this watch is visible through the transparent sapphire crystal case back.
Mechanical chronograph, hand-wound, with column-wheel Valjoux calibre
Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph
750 (18K) pink gold
Limited series of 90 numbered watches
Sapphire crystal and back
Centre seconds hand
Counters for hours and minutes
Launched in 2001, this tourbillon model from CEDRIC JOHNER’s Abyss line has a hand-crafted Red gold case fitted with scratch resistant sapphire crystal glass.
The Abyss 5380/4 Tourbillon boasts a hand-guilloché dial that gives glimpse of an automatic movement with meticulous, bevelled bridges and wheels. It has red gold hour and minute hands, and the tourbillon founds its place at 6’o clock.
The CJ 80 Tourbillon calibre is self winding and offers an exceptional 110-hour power reserve. This model is fitted with a crocodile leather strap.
Model: CEDRIC JOHNER Abyss 5380/4 Tourbillon
Automatic, CJ 80 Tourbillon calibre, bevelled bridges and wheels
Frequency: 21’600 V/h
110-hour power reserve
Introduced in 2003, the X – Ray model by Jorg Hysek marks a true success from both the technical and the aesthetic angle, right down to the finest details. Alongside a sophisticated, cambered case, the designer has given the entire movement a contemporary, high-tech look, including the bridges, gears and tourbillon cage.
A tinted sapphire crystal dial with an opening above the tourbillon subtly reveals the very heart of this creation. The hand wound mechanical tourbillon movement of this limited edition (ten watches per year) timepiece is meticulously hand decorated and engraved. It delivers a power reserve up to 100 hours.
Tourbillon, hand-decorated and engraved
100-hour power reserve
750 (18C) white gold
Sapphire crystal and back
Tinted sapphire crystal, opening for the tourbillon
Introduced by deLacour in 2005, this Grande Complication watch, each of which is unique, was developed in association with world renowned watchmaker Christophe Claret. This mechanism represents a genuine technical feat and incorporates two world premières. In addition to its flying bi-tourbillon mechanisms, this watch features an original dual time-zone display, a moon-phase indication, as well as an exclusive module that sends a shooting star gliding swiftly over the moonphase.
Technical details Movement Mechanical, DC Calibre 297, shaped plate, 40 x 33 mm Flying bi-tourbillons (one turning to the left, the other to the right), driven by a differential gearing system, 21’600 vph, central ball-bearing mechanism, 78 jewels Personalised motifs
Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT (with instant date jump device), moon phase, 100-hour power reserve
Case 750 (18K) gold or platinum Sapphire crystal and back
Dial 750 (18K) gold or platinum 2 gold cartoucheswith built-in loupes for the hours Seconds on the tourbillons at 5 and 7 o’clock Moon phase at 12 o’clock “Shooting star” passing by the moon-phase display every 6 minutes
Introduced in 2006, this timepiece wrote a new chapter in prestigious watch manufacture as the first ultra-thin mechanical watch for ladies.
The Ref. 4896, which sparkles in diamond studded white gold case and impressive guilloché night blue dial, belongs to the Calatrava collection, acclaimed for the timeless elegance of its round cases that have expressed the inimitable Patek Philippe style for nearly three-quarters of a century.
While the shape and proportion of the case remain true to the 1930s Calatrava style, Patek Philippe has paid particular attention to the design of the all-new dial. First and foremost, this exclusive dial stands out with its unique night blue hue, which is accented by the brushed satin strap and 18K gold case and hands.
The surface of the dial features a delicate guilloché pattern of concentric waves and is covered with several layers of blue lacquer, producing an incredible depth of color as the guilloché pattern shimmers through.
Overall, 12 separate lacquering, firing and polishing steps are needed to achieve this velvety, enigmatic dial. Like the rays of a star, the hour markers, coated with powdered silver, enliven the dial.
The faceted dauphine hands are polished and the satin-finished, rhodium-plated side of the case enhances the glow of the dial and the fire of the 72 diamonds on the bezel. With these attributes, the Ref.4896 possesses the radiance of a formal evening watch but retains its sleekness and discreet elegance.
The Calatrava Ref. 4896 watch beats to the rhythm of the manually wound Patek Philippe caliber 16-250 movement which is ultra-thin and extremely compact (2.5 mm thick with a diameter of 16.3 mm). It displays the prestigious Geneva Seal, a hallmark of true excellence.
Model: Patek Philippe Ladies’ Calatrava Ref. 4896 G
Caliber 16-250, Manually wound mechanical movement
Diameter: 16.30 mm, Height: 2.50 mm
Number of parts: 101
Number of jewels: 18
Power reserve: Max. 38 hours
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Flat
– Pulled out: to set time
– Pushed in: to wind watch
Displays: Hours, minutes
Hallmark: Geneva Seal
18K white gold set with 72 diamonds
Solid 18K gold snap back
Water-resistant to 25 meters
Diameter: 33 mm
Thickness: 6.35 mm
Width between lugs: 17 mm
Guilloché navy blue
12 arrow-type hour markers coated with powdered silver
Dauphine hour and minute hands with two lapped faces in 18K white gold, one face polished, one face sandblasted and rhodium plated
Bezel set with 72 flawless Top Wesselton diamonds, 1.2 mm brilliant-cut, totaling approx. 0.47 ct.
Brushed navy blue satin, with 16 mm prong buckle in 18K white gold
The ‘Satellite du Monde’ is based on the very first watch designed by Christiaan van der Klaauw, and is the homage to our two most important celestial bodies: the Son & the Moon. This classic timepiece watch features a rotating dial shows the position of the Moon in relation to the Sun. The outer ring shows the different time zones, which makes it the watch par excellence for people who travel a lot.
The CVDK Satellite du monde rotor is based on the ‘Sun with Claws’, the logo of Christiaan van der Klaauw. The rotor is engraved by Atelier Christiaan van der Klaauw.
Model: CVDK Satellite du Monde CKSM 3376
Movement: CVDK 2882 modified self-winding movement with in-house Satellite Du Monde module.
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds; day-night and world time indication; actual position of the Moon in relation to the Sun.
This ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE timepiece from AUDEMARS PIGUET is named after one of the most successful and famous Colombian racing drivers, Juan Pablo Montoya. Launched in 2004, in collaboration with world renowned watchmaker Richard Mille, this limited edition timepiece draws its inspiration from aesthetics and technical features of racing cars.
Case of this exceptional rose gold Royal Oak Offshore (Ref. 26030RO.OO.D001IN.01) timepiece is highlighted with stunning combination of rose gold and carbon. Inspired from the technical features of racing cars, the screws of raised octagonal bezel in rose gold with carbon inserts look like cylinder head screws; the crown is reminiscent of a wheel axle, and the push-buttons resemble cooling flaps.
The Royal Oak Offshore Juan Pablo Montoya is equipped with a 54 jewels Cal.2226/2840 automatic nickel lever movement with an openwork oscillating weight in the form of a brake disc, which is visible through the sapphire case back.
The stunning black dial adorned with clous de Paris decoration features luminescent indexes in pink gold and luminous pink gold baton hands, outer ring for tachymeter, three sub dials: small seconds at 12’o clock, 30-minute and 12-hour chronograph counters (9’o clock & 6’o clock respectively), and a date window at 3’o clock.
The screw down case back is secured with eight hexagonal screws and has inscription ‘ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE JUAN PABLO MONTOYA LIMITED EDITION’. The Pink gold version of the Royal Oak Offshore Juan Pablo Montoya is worn with a leather strap featuring an Audemars Piguet 18 carat pink gold deployant clasp.
The limited edition AP Royal Oak Offshore Juan Pablo Montoya watch is available in Titanium (1000 pieces), Rose gold (500 pieces) and Platinum (100 pieces) versions.
Privacy & Cookies Policy
Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. These cookies do not store any personal information.
Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website.