Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC Platinum
Founded in 2015 by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud in the Val-de-Travers (Switzerland) is celebrating its tenth anniversary this year. To mark the occasion, the Manufacture presents a very limited series of the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC watches in platinum.
The philosophy driving Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud since the launch of its first collection in 2015 is far more than merely a tribute to the work of the eponymous master-watchmaker. It transposes into contemporary watchmaking language the quest for excellence and precision of the man who was appointed Master Clockmaker-Mechanic by appointment to the (French) King and Navy.
No fewer than nine exclusive calibres and three collections have been presented since 2015: Chronomètre FB 1 with its now iconic octagonal case; the FB 2 collection whose case design reinterprets the shape of marine clocks; as well as the FB 3, which is inspired by the longitude watches designed by Ferdinand Berthoud.
To mark the tenth anniversary of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, the iconic FB 3SPC collection with a cylindrical balance-spring has been enriched with a very limited edition of platinum timepieces that can also be set with precious stones.
The FB 3SPC collection is the only wristwatch with a variable-inertia balance and a cylindrical balance spring, chronometer-certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) and awarded the Chronometry prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2023.
Its mechanical movement is based on a cylindrical balance-spring, an extremely rare horological speciality on which Ferdinand Berthoud himself had worked. It is the result of more than three years of research and development.
Positioned at 9 o’clock, the three main escapement components – namely the balance, pallet-lever and escape-wheel – are individualized, distinct and prominent. This space dedicated to the regulating organ enables one to appreciate how it functions and to see the cylindrical balance-spring beating throughout the three days of the power reserve, including through a large water-resistant porthole in the case middle at 9 o’clock.
Thanks to its unique three-dimensional architecture with the mainplate positioned at the heart of the movement and the bridges framing it, Calibre FB-SPC is fully visible through the case-back as well as on the dial side. The way it is decorated thus determines the character of the timepiece, as do the two new pink and black PVD-treated versions – produced in 20-piece limited series – that are joining the FB 3 collection.
The FB 3SPC.3 model features a finely sandblasted salmon pink movement, a velvet-finished silver-toned brass inner bezel ring and dial, along with facetted and diamond-polished blue CVD-treated 18-carat gold hands. The regulating organ bridges visible at 9 o’clock are made of straight-grained natural nickel silver.
Meanwhile, Reference FB 3SPC.3-1 is equipped with a black PVD-treated sandblasted movement, a black-varnished inner bezel and dial, along with 18-carat white gold hands.
To accentuate the intensity of the movement’s black hues, the regulating organ bridges and the barrel drum are treated with black rhodium, while the gear trains are white rhodium-treated.
Each of these two references will also be available in a diamond-set version, produced in a five-piece limited edition. Benefiting from Chopard’s expertise, the case, crown and buckle have been subtly reworked to accommodate diamonds of exceptional quality and cut.
Each stone is then set with the utmost care to obtain a particularly elegant setting of 77 diamonds totalling 4.02 carats: 48 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel, 10 on the pin buckle and 18 on the crown. The latter is also enhanced with a briolette-cut diamond.
Traditionally accompanied by a hand-sewn natural alligator leather strap and an 18 mm pin buckle, the FB 3SPC collection can now on request be equipped with a new 18 mm folding clasp. The latter features two blades, with a safety catch on the cap and a fine-adjustment mechanism enabling +/- 3 mm length modifications to fit the exact wrist size.
Already present on the folding clasps of the FB 1 and FB 2 collections, this mechanism equips the new version appearing with the Chronomètre FB 3SPC, whose design has been subtly reworked to adapt perfectly to the curve of the FB 3 case. This new clasp is available on request in 5N 18-carat rose gold or in 18-carat non-rhodium-treated white gold.
Through these new variations, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud reaffirms its desire to perpetuate the FB 3 collection, which requires the greatest watchmaking expertise, in order to produce and adjust around 30 chronometer-certified movements of this type each year.
This launch also marks the start of celebrations for Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, which is celebrating its tenth anniversary in 2025.
Model: Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC Platinum
Movement
Mechanical hand-wound Calibre FB-SPC
Diameter: 34 mm
Thickness: 6.84 mm
Lignes: 15’’’
Jewels: 47
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours
Number of components: 230
Number of bridges: 16
Slip-spring barrel (automatic uncoupling when maximum power reserve is reached)
Variable-inertia balance with four fine-adjustment screws and 8 load screws
Cylindrical balance-spring with hand-crafted Berthoud terminal curves
Swiss lever escapement
Crown-activated stop-seconds mechanism
Mainplate and bridges in sandblasted nickel silver
Hand-finished to the highest watchmaking standards
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC
Functions
Central display of the hours and minutes, seconds at 6 o’clock and power reserve at 2 o’clock
Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC Platinum, Reference FB 3SPC.3
Case
Round case in platinum PT-950, fitted with a transparent sapphire ‘porthole’ at 9 o’clock
Total diameter: 42.30 mm
Thickness: 9.43 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 8.50 mm
Crown and screws in ethical 18-carat white gold
Exhibition back in platinum fitted with a glare-proofed sapphire crystal pane
Domed sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides
Dial and movement finishing
Peripheral inner bezel ring in velvet-finished silver-toned brass for the hours and minutes, shiny anthracite-varnished engraved numerals
Seconds subdial at 6 o’clock in velvet-finished silver-toned brass, shiny anthracite-varnished engraved numerals
Sandblasted salmon pink (4N gilded), nickel silver movement, gilded gear trains, straight-grained natural nickel silver regulating organ bridges, 4N gilded barrel cover
Hands
Diamond-polished, skeletonised and open-tipped hours and minutes hands in blue CVD-treated 18-carat gold
Seconds hand with openworked counterweight in blue CVD-treated 18-carat gold
Arrow-shaped power-reserve hand in blue CVD-treated 18-carat gold
Strap
Alligator leather strap (125 x 70 mm)
Various sizes and colours available on request
Platinum 18 mm pin buckle
18-carat white gold 18 mm folding clasp with security fastening and length-adjustable blade, available on request
Edition
20-piece limited edition (“1 DE 20” engraving)
Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC Platinum, Reference FB 3SPC.3-1
Case
Round case in platinum PT-950, fitted with a transparent sapphire ‘porthole’ at 9 o’clock
Total diameter: 42.30 mm
Thickness: 9.43 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 8.50 mm
Crown and screws in ethical 18-carat white gold
Exhibition back in platinum fitted with a glare-proofed sapphire crystal pane
Domed sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides
Dial and movement finishing
Peripheral inner bezel ring in smooth black-varnished brass for the hours and minutes, matt grey-varnished engraved numerals
Seconds subdial at 6 o’clock in smooth black-varnished brass, matt grey-varnished engraved numerals
Sandblasted black PVD-treated nickel silver movement, white rhodium-treated gear trains, straight-grained black rhodium-treated nickel silver regulating organ bridges, black rhodium-treated barrel cover
Hands
Diamond-polished, skeletonised and open-tipped hours and minutes hands in 18-carat white gold
Seconds hand with openworked counterweight in 18-carat white gold
Arrow-shaped power-reserve hand in 18-carat white gold
Strap
Alligator leather strap (125 x 70 mm)
Various sizes and colours available on request
Platinum 18 mm pin buckle
18-carat white gold 18 mm folding clasp with security fastening and length-adjustable blade, available on request
Edition
20-piece limited edition (“1 DE 20” engraving)
Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC Platinum, Reference FB 3SPC.3-3
Case
Round case in platinum PT-950 set with baguette-cut diamonds, fitted with a transparent sapphire ‘porthole’ at 9 o’clock
Total diameter: 42.30 mm
Thickness: 9.43 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 8.50 mm
Bezel set with 48 baguette-cut diamonds (1.79 carats)
Crown in 18-carat white gold set with 18 baguette-cut diamonds (0.35 carats) and 1 briolette-cut diamond (0.40 carats)
Screws in 18-carat white gold
Exhibition back in platinum fitted with a glare-proofed sapphire crystal pane
Domed sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides
Dial and movement finishing
Peripheral inner bezel ring in velvet-finished silver-toned brass for the hours and minutes, shiny anthracite-varnished engraved numerals
Seconds subdial at 6 o’clock in velvet-finished silver-toned brass, shiny anthracite-varnished engraved numerals
Sandblasted salmon pink (4N gilded) nickel silver movement, gilded gear trains, straight-grained natural nickel silver regulating organ bridges, gilded barrel cover
Hands
Diamond-polished, skeletonised and open-tipped hours and minutes hands in blue CVD-treated 18-carat gold
Seconds hand with openworked counterweight in blue CVD-treated 18-carat gold
Arrow-shaped power-reserve hand in blue CVD-treated 18-carat gold
Strap
Alligator leather strap (125 x 70 mm)
Various sizes and colours available on request
Platinum 18 mm pin buckle set with 10 baguette-cut diamonds (1.48 carats)
18-carat white gold 18 mm folding clasp with security fastening and length-adjustable blade, available on request
Edition
5-piece limited edition (“1 DE 5” engraving)
Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC Platinum, Reference FB 3SPC.3-2
Case
Round case in platinum PT-950 set with baguette-cut diamonds, fitted with a transparent sapphire ‘porthole’ at 9 o’clock
Total diameter: 42.30 mm
Thickness: 9.43 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 8.50 mm
Bezel set with 48 baguette-cut diamonds (1.79 carats)
Crown in 18-carat white gold set with 18 baguette-cut diamonds (0.35 carats) and 1 briolette-cut diamond (0.40 carat)
Screws in 18-carat white gold
Exhibition back in platinum fitted with a glare-proofed sapphire crystal pane
Domed sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides
Dial and movement finishing
Peripheral inner bezel ring in smooth black-varnished brass for the hours and minutes, matt grey-varnished engraved numerals
Seconds subdial at 6 o’clock in smooth black-varnished brass, matt grey-varnished engraved numerals
Sandblasted black PVD-treated nickel silver movement, white rhodium-treated gear trains, straight-grained black rhodium-treated nickel silver regulating organ bridges, black rhodium-treated barrel cover
Hands
Diamond-polished, skeletonised and open-tipped hours and minutes hands in 18-carat white gold
Seconds hand with open-worked counterweight in 18-carat white gold
Arrow-shaped power-reserve hand in 18-carat white gold
Strap
Alligator leather strap (125 x 70 mm)
Various sizes and colours available on request
Platinum 18 mm pin buckle set with 10 baguette-cut diamonds (1.48 carats)
18-carat white gold 18 mm folding clasp with security fastening and length-adjustable blade, available on request
Edition
5-piece limited edition (“1 DE 5” engraving)
