The new FB 3SPC model from Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud houses a mechanical movement featuring a novel construction and a cylindrical balance spring.
It took two years to perfect the adjustments of the regulating organ before obtaining official “chronometer” certification (ISO 3159 standard): a first for such a movement. This new Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3 collection takes inspiration from the No. 26 decimal watch created by Louis Berthoud.
Originating from the workshop founded by Ferdinand Berthoud in Paris after being awarded his “maîtrise” (master of horology title) in 1753, this creation is signed by his nephew, Louis Berthoud.
It is the symbol of a revival in this post-revolutionary period, during which marine chronometers – measuring instruments intended for naval use in the 18th century – paved the way for watchmaking of very high quality, pare-down and firmly rooted in the 19th century and its civil applications. The Chronomètre FB 3SPC reflects this historical and horological transition.
The new Chronomètre FB 3SPC represents the third collection of Ferdinand Berthoud wristwatches in the wake of those created since 2015.
The Chronomètre FB 3SPC explores a chronometric issue, which was the subject of the most abundant and fruitful research during the 18th century golden age of watchmaking: the balance-spring. These experiments were however poorly documented and it was thus in the total absence of specialised literature that Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud set about creating the new Calibre FB-SPC.
This new mechanical movement is based on a cylindrical balance-spring, a rare watchmaking speciality on which Ferdinand Berthoud himself worked. His nephew, Louis Berthoud, favoured its use in his famous No. 26 decimal watch.
Calibre FB-SPC is the only one of its kind to satisfy the chronometric (precision timekeeping) criteria of the COSC: ISO 3159 certification made possible only by the precision adjustments performed by the Manufacture’s watchmakers.
In addition to the development of a new variable-inertia balance-spring, equipped with four fine adjustment screws and 12 load screws, many months of research, testing and fine-tuning were necessary to define the number of coils and the geometry of the terminal curve at the attachment points in order to optimise rate precision.
This new mechanical hand-wound movement stems from more than three years of research and development, during which every detail was carefully examined. Appearing at 9 o’clock, the three main escapement organs – the balance-wheel, pallet-lever and escape-wheel – are thus individualised, distinct and prominent.
This ample space dedicated to the regulating organ enables its operation to be admired in full, and the cylindrical balance-spring to be seen beating throughout the three-day power reserve, including through a large water-resistant porthole created in the case middle at 9 o’clock.
While the FB 1 and FB 2 collections belong to the legacy of Ferdinand Berthoud’s marine chronometers, the FB 3 collection borrows from the style of the Master’s nephew, student and successor: Pierre-Louis Berthoud (1754-1813).
Born in 1754 in Couvet, in the Val-de-Travers, the latter moved to Paris at his uncle’s request. In 1784, having skilfully assisted in the making and improving of his distinguished relative’s marine chronometers, he was entrusted by Ferdinand Berthoud with the responsibility of his workshop, located since 1754 on Rue de Harlay,running along the Place Dauphine in Paris.
Under his impetus, private watchmaking experienced considerable expansion. Louis Berthoud added his personal touch, which can be seen in the aesthetics of the mechanism.
He inaugurated a style that was rooted in the highly functional appearance of marine chronometers, where function dictated form. He developed these pragmatic designs at a time when the spirit of the age was shifting from the baroque and opulent style of the monarchy to neo-classicism during the early days of the Republic and subsequently the Empire.
Thanks to his exceptional talent, Louis Berthoud made the workshop’s activity bear fruit by naturally accompanying the societal and stylistic changes of his time.
This inspiration is evident at first glance in the FB3 collection. Its new round case, available in 18-carat white or rose gold, recalls the curves of pocket watches from the early 19th century, such as the decimal watch No. 26, made in 1793 by Louis Berthoud and now on display within the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud heritage collection in Fleurier.
A single line hugs the curves of the domed crystal and the slender polished bezel of the FB 3 models, while harmoniously extending along the strap and the lugs screwed to the case. This refined and coherent ensemble echoes the slimness of the case (42 mm in diameter and 9.43 mm thick), which fades into the background so as to make way for the spectacular movement.
The other deep-seated characteristic of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud lies in the desire to create movements with a legible, graphic and three-dimensional architecture. The mainplate is placed at the heart of Calibre FB-SPC and the components are assembled on either side of it.
On the dial side, a close-knit array of six bridges traces curves and lines directly inspired by the work of Louis Berthoud. They are echoed on the back by ten other bridges forming an intimately juxtaposed mosaic.
The indication of time is pared down to the absolute minimum: a peripheral inner bezel ring for the hours and minutes, and small seconds at 6 o’clock. At 2 o’clock, the power-reserve indicator is engraved in a sector graduated in 12-hour segments from “0” to “1”.
The rest of the dial, deliberately left open, enables one to admire the aesthetics of the movement’s components, their arrangement, as well as the surface conditions alternating between chamfered and polished bevels and matt surfaces created by fine sandblasting.
Although complex in construction, the architecture of the movement is minimalist in appearance. The hours and minutes flange, shaped like an amphitheatre, extends vertically to the mainplate.
The open-worked and suspended seconds disc is secured from below to a dedicated bridge. The balance-bridge, with its distinctive screw-in heel shape, is a historical reference to Ferdinand Berthoud’s No. 3 astronomical watch.
Positioned at 12 o’clock, the barrel bridge spanning a wide 120° angle recalls a bridge on the No. 2575 quarter-repeater watch made by Louis Berthoud.
More than 100 hours are required to decorate the 230 components of the movement in order to achieve the ultimate degree of perfection characterising the creations bearing the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud signature.
The Chronomètre FB 3SPC watch is available in two versions. The first features an 18-carat white gold case, 2N pale yellow gold movement components and an eggshell-coloured dial in sandblasted silver-toned brass.
The second is equipped with an 18-carat 5N rose gold case framing a black-varnished minutes track with black-rhodium-treated visible movement components. Their facetted, skeletonised and open-tipped 18-carat gold hands are inspired by a 1785 Ferdinand Berthoud astronomical regulator belonging to the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud heritage collection in Fleurier.
The gold used in the production of Chronomètre FB 3SPC models stems from the ethical sourcing process instated by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele – President and Founder of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud.
Production of the Chronomètre FB 3SPC is limited to a maximum 25 of these timepieces per year.
Technical details
Model: Chronomètre FB 3SPC White Gold Version, Ref. FB 3SPC.1
Case
Round case in ethical 18-carat white gold with a transparent sapphire ‘porthole’ at 9 o’clock
Total diameter: 42.30 mm
Thickness: 9.43 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 8.50 mm
Crown in ethical 18-carat white gold
Exhibition back in ethical 18-carat white gold fitted with a glare-proofed sapphire crystal pane
Domed sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides
Dial
Eggshell-coloured peripheral inner bezel ring for the hours and minutes, in sandblasted silver-toned brass
Eggshell-coloured seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, in sandblasted silver-toned brass
Sandblasted and 2N gilded visible components of Calibre FB-SPC
Hands
Facetted and skeletonised and open-tipped hours and minutes hands in 18-carat gold with blue CVD treatment
Seconds hand with counterweight in 18-carat gold with blue CVD treatment
Arrow-shaped power-reserve hand in 18-carat gold with blue CVD treatment
Strap
Alligator leather strap (125 x 70 mm) – Various sizes available on request
18-carat white gold pin buckle
Model: Chronomètre FB 3SPC Rose Gold Version, Ref. FB 3SPC.2
Case
Round case in ethical 18-carat rose gold with a transparent sapphire ‘porthole’ at 9 o’clock
Total diameter: 42.30 mm
Thickness: 9.43 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 8.50 mm
Crown in ethical 18-carat rose gold
Exhibition back in ethical 18-carat rose gold fitted with a glare-proofed sapphire crystal pane
Domed sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides
Dial
Black-varnished peripheral inner bezel ring for the hours and minutes, in sandblasted brass
Black-varnished seconds subdial at 6 o’clock in sandblasted brass
Black rhodium-treated visible components of Calibre FB-SPC
Hands
Facetted and skeletonised open-tipped hours and minutes hands in 18-carat rose gold
Seconds hand with counterweight in 18-carat rose gold
Arrow-shaped power-reserve hand in 18-carat rose gold
Strap
Alligator leather strap (125 x 70 mm) – Various sizes available on request
18-carat rose gold pin buckle
Movement specifications
Movement
Mechanical hand-wound Calibre FB-SPC
Diameter: 37.30 mm
Thickness: 6.84 mm
Lignes: 15 ’’’
Jewels: 47
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours
Number of components: 230
Number of bridges: 16
Slip-spring barrel (automatic uncoupling when maximum power reserve is reached)
Variable-inertia balance with four fine-adjustment screws and 12 load screws
Cylindrical balance-spring with hand-crafted Berthoud terminal curves
Swiss lever escapement
Crown-activated stop-seconds mechanism
Mainplate and bridges in sandblasted nickel silver
Hand-finished to the highest watchmaking standards
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC
Functions
Central display of the hours and minutes, seconds at 6 o’clock and power reserve at 2 o’clock
