NOMOS Glashütte – Lux and Lambda

German watch manufacturer NOMOS Glashütte is unveiling two new watches in October, in which both the attention to detail and the effort involved in production and watchmaking has been brought to perfection. Lux and Lambda are the names of the two new hand-wound models “Made in Glashütte, Germany”. These two exquisite watches will be available in white gold. The Lambda model also comes in rose gold—and with a dial that is silver-plated by granulation.

The timepieces, which will be produced in very small numbers, combine Glashütte fine watchmaking with NOMOS characteristics and simply timeless design.

The Lambda model is round, while Lux has a classic Tonneau shape. The light-colored dials under the curved sapphire crystals are refined, understated and as fine as pencil drawings: the Lambda model is cream, while the Lux model comes in blue and off-white. The caliber side, which is visible in both cases through the generous back, is more refined than ever: featuring a swan neck fine adjustment, rhodium-plated three-quarter plate, edges angled and polished by hand and fine sunbeam polishing, which is only to be found in this particular style at NOMOS Glashütte. As well as screwed gold chatons, a screw balance and hand-engraved balance cock that reads “Mit Liebe in Glashütte gefertigt” (lovingly produced in Glashütte).

The calibers at work within these flat watches are the fine hand-wound movements DUW 1001 (Lambda) and DUW 2002 (Lux). Constructed in-house in the NOMOS atelier, where they are also mounted and adjusted in six positions, equivalent to chronometer standards. DUW stands for “Deutsche Uhrenwerke NOMOS Glashütte”- a new name, with which the boutique watchmaking firm is presenting its credentials as a producer of in-house built movements to a wider audience. Thanks to the twin mainspring barrels, both DUW 1001 and DUW 2002 have a power reserve of 84 hours—in DUW 1001 this is shown sweeping across the dial, while Lux manages with only three hands.

The design of these classic watches has also been paid an exceptionally high degree of attention; a high quality team was engaged in the task over the course of three years. Designers from the Zurich-based Studio Hannes Wettstein drafted the flat and wrist-flattering gold case, while Prof. Axel Kufus, Michael Paul and the team from the NOMOS design office Berlinerblau in Berlin drew up the fine dials, hands, and the cambered straps from fine Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan.

NOMOS Lambda (Rose Gold/White Gold)
In mathematics, the Greek letter Lambda is a symbol for intrinsic values. At NOMOS Glashütte, it is the name of a highly precise instrument, constructed according to the rules of science and those of the watchmaking craft in the NOMOS workshops. For all this logic and reason, it remains a timepiece that calls forth the highest emotions. In white gold or, as shown here, a tick warmer in rose gold: a fine choice between two watches, both exemplifying handicraft of the very best kind.

DUW 1001, Lambda’s caliber differentiates it in many ways from all other (equally fine) watches. The rubies of the movement, in which the staffs of the wheels turn, are held in polished gold chatons (18 karat), which are in turn screwed to the three-quarter plate with two or three blued screws. The edges of all the cocks and plates are angled and polished by hand. And the three-quarter plate is decorated with a stripe polish that catches the light beautifully, which is only to be found in this particular style at NOMOS Glashütte: the fine sunbeam polishing. Twin mainspring barrels ensure an extra power reserve—this extremely precise watch only requires winding twice a week. This is displayed on the dial side in the most aesthetically pleasing way: DUW 1001 has a 84-hour power reserve indicator.

Lambda Rose Gold (Reference number: 930)
Case: Rose gold 18 kt, tripartite; diameter 42 mm; sapphire crystal glass; sapphire crystal glass back, height 8.9 mm
Dial: white silver-plated by granulation
Hands: gold-plated
Water resistant: to 3 atm
Strap: Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan dark brown, hand stitched; solid rose gold 18 kt buckle clasp

Lambda White gold (Reference number: 931)
Case: white gold 18 kt, tripartite; diameter 42 mm; sapphire crystal glass; sapphire crystal glass back, height 8.9 mm
Dial: galvanized, white silver-plated
Hands: rhodium-plated
Water resistant: to 3 atm
Strap: Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan black, hand stitched; solid white gold 18 kt buckle clasp

Movement
DUW 1001—in-house built NOMOScaliber with manual winding and power reserve indicator
Diameter: 14 ¼ lines (32 mm)
Movement height: 3.6 mm
Power reserve: approx. 84 hours
Characteristics: 29 jewels, of which six in polished and screwed gold chatons, twin mainspring barrels, hand-engraved balance cock, screw balance, 21 600 a/h, adjusted in six positions (equivalent to chronometer standards), balance spring Nivarox 1A, swan neck fine adjustment, rhodium-plated thre equarter plate with fine sunbeam polishing, angled and polished edges

NOMOS Lux White Gold
This model in white gold is the boldest, most impressive watch in the new selection from NOMOS Glashütte. The dial is light blue, like the sky over the city on fair days, and graced with fine detailing on its white face.  The Tourneau case flatters the wrist, giving the caliber plenty of room. The Lux Whitegold hell version is without the light blue print on dial.

The twin mainspring barrels in Calibre DUW 2002 ensure that this watch only needs to be wound once every 84 hours, or twice a week. Further special features include the swan neck fine adjustment and the screw balance in the hand-engraved balance cock (which reads “Mit Liebe in Glashütte gefertigt”, meaning “lovingly produced in Glashütte”), the fine sunbeam polishing developed by NOMOS Glashütte and the five screwed gold chatons that, rather unusually, are positioned in a line across the movement: everything about this calibre radiates the joy with which it was constructed.

NOMOS Lux White Gold(Reference number: 920)
Case: white gold 18 kt, tripartite; size 40.5 mm by 36 mm; sapphire crystal glass; sapphire crystal glass back, height 8.95 mm
Dial: galvanized, white silver-plated, light blue printed
Hands: rhodium-plated
Water resistant: to 3 atm
Strap: Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan black, hand stitched; solid white gold 18 kt buckle clasp

NOMOS Lux White Gold Hell (Reference number: 921)
Case: white gold 18 kt, tripartite; size 40.5 mm by 36 mm; sapphire crystal glass; sapphire crystal glass back, height 8.95 mm
Dial: galvanized, white silver-plated
Hands: rhodium-plated
Water resistant: to 3 atm
Strap: Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan black, hand stitched; solid white gold 18 kt buckle clasp

Movement
DUW 2002—in-house built NOMOS calibre with manual winding
Dimensions: 32.6 mm by 28.8 mm
Movement height: 3.6 mm
Power reserve: approx. 84 hours
Characteristics: 23 jewels, of which five in polished and screwed gold chatons, twin mainspring barrels, hand-engraved balance cock, screw balance, 21 600 a/h, adjusted in six positions (equivalent to chronometer standards), balance spring Nivarox 1A, swan neck fine adjustment, rhodium-plated threequarter plate with fine sunbeam polish, angled and polished edges

The watchmaking company is therefore taking another significant step on its journey with these new watches. Since 1990, NOMOS has been building prize-winning timepieces in Glashütte, watches that have long been recognized as classics—namely Tangente, Tangomat, and Ahoi, Orion, Tetra, Ludwig, Zürich, and Club. Lux and Lambda with DUW 1001 and DUW 2002 are now emblematic of this progression, which took place over the course of many years: the quintessence of those already firm favourites.

The two golden watches and their calibres will be presented to the public for the first time at MUNICHTIME at the beginning of November—and sold from then onwards in selected retailers worldwide.

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