Tag: NOVELTIES 2013

U-Boat CHIMERA Collection

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

U-Boat CHIMERA Collection offers fine automatic mechanical timepieces in several versions: time only, date, chronograph & GMT. Available in different case materials and sizes, the CHIMERA timepieces are also available in jewellery versions set with diamonds or semi precious stones. A special feature of these timepieces is an innovative steel crown release system (patented) at 8 o’clock for easy time and date setting.

U-Boat CHIMERA B & B Limited Edition
46 mm – Ref. 6946

Movement
Top Soigné with black screws, rhodium plated, automatic mechanical chronograph personalized to U-Boat specifications for date display and stem to be positioned at 9 o’clock
Frequency: 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz
Power reserve: 44 hours
25 jewels
Height: 7 mm

Functions
Hours, minutes, small second, chronograph 60 s, counter 30 min and 12 h
Date window at 9 o’clock

Case
Bronze, naturally aged and AISI 316 Plus stainless steel with subsequent PVD coating treatment
46 mm diameter, 54, 60 mm diameter including external crown-clutter
The bezel and the back of the case are locked together by external tubing and a customised key that ensures absolute water resistance
Oversized cup crown for an easy manipulation, secured on the carrure, positioned at 9 o’clock
Winding crown in steel, heat-treated
Chrono pushers screwed in on the carrure
Back case, external tubing and screws, protection device of the winding crown, chrono pushers frame and serial number plate in bronze, naturally aged.
Case, bezel, chrono pushers, pin for hook, screws of the plate, fixing screws  of the strap made of steel AISI 316 Plus, with PVD coating
Personalized rotor, in silver, 3 bridges construction, rhodium plated and fixed with blued screws.
Thickness: 18, 10 mm
Weight: 186 gr approx
Crystal: bronzed glass, sapphire curved on the face and flat crystal on the back of the timepiece, double gasket sealing
Water resistance: 100 meters, 10 ATM

Dial
Two superimposed dials, one treated with composite pigments and laser cut  on the counters and hours, the other in matt bronze colour, azuré finishing on the  small seconds and minutes counters, cut and printed

Hands
Hour and minute laser cut hands, hand brushed on the surface, hand painted central joint
Hands of the counters in bronze color, hand brushed

Strap
Handmade and hand finished calf leather, carefully selected and processed following the traditional artisan handcrafted techniques used in the 1800’s, which give the strap a naturally distressed feel and look
Tongue steel buckle, with subsequent coating PVD opaque black

Edition
Limited edition of 300 units

U-Boat CHIMERA 48 CARBONIO 
48 mm – Ref. 7177

Movement
GMT automatic mechanical chronograph personalized to U-Boat specifications for date display and stem to be positioned at 9 o’clock, second time zone
Frequency: 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz
Power reserve: 48 hours
25 jewels
Height: 7,9 mm

Functions
Hours, minutes, small second, chronograph 60 s, counter 30 min and 12 h. 24 hour hand with time-zones mechanism
Date window at 9 o’clock

Case
Diameter 48 mm
Case body, back case, bezel ring in forged carbon, characterised by high strength and lightness
Crystal: sapphire curved glass on the face and flat on the back of the timepiece
Water resistance:50 mt, 5 ATM

Dial
Two superimposed dials, baton hands, treated with superluminova

Strap
Handmade and hand finished calf leather, carefully selected and processed following the traditional artisan handcrafted techniques, which give the strap a naturally distressed feel and look
Tongue buckle in titanium

Edition
Limited edition of 199 units

U-Boat CHIMERA 48 925
ø 48 mm – ref. 7108
ø 48 mm – ref. 7115
ø 48 mm – ref. 7107

Movement
Top Soigné with black screws, rhodium plated, automatic mechanical chronograph personalized to U- Boat specifications for date display and stem to be positioned at 9 o’clock
Frequency: 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz
Power reserve: 48 hours
25 jewels
Height: 7 mm

Functions
Hours, minutes, small second, chronograph 60 s, counter 30 min and 12 h
Date window at 9 o’clock

Case
Sterling silver, double finishing (shinny and matt)
An electroplating treatment with silver, 5 microns is executed on the complete case and subsequently an additional rhodium plating nickel free of 1 micron
Crown on left side, screwed in, with a special protective device
Diameter: 48 mm; 58 mm diameter including external crown clutter
Case silver weight: 146 gr approx
Personalized rotor, in silver, build with a base and 3 bridges fixed with blued screws
Crystal: sapphire curved glass on the face and flat on the back of the timepiece
Water resistance: 50 meters, 5 ATM

Dial
Two superimposed dials, baton hands

Strap
For ref 7108 handmade and hand finished alligator black leather with inset of dark brown alligator, square scale, tongue silver buckle
For ref 7115 and 7107 handmade and hand finished calf leather, carefully selected and processed to give the strap a naturally distressed feel and look
Tongue silver buckle

Edition
Limited edition of 300 units

U-Boat CHIMERA 46 SIDEVIEW
ø 46 mm – ref. 7224
Movement
Top Soigné with black screws, rhodium plated, automatic mechanical chronograph personalized to U-Boat specifications for date display and stem to be positioned at 9 o’clock
Frequency: 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz
Power reserve: 48 hours
25 jewels
Height: 7 mm

Functions
Hours, minutes, small second, chronograph 60 s, counter 30 min and 12 h
Date window at 9 o’clock

Case
AISI 316 Plus stainless steel
46 mm diameter, 54,50 mm diameter including external crown-clutter
The bezel and the back of the case are locked together by external tubing and a customised key that ensures absolute water-proofing
Personalized rotor, in silver, build with a base and 3 bridges fixed with blued screws. Case with a side window, with a fumé sapphire glass which allows the movements view
Crystal: sapphire curved glass on the face and flat on the back of the timepiece
Water resistance: 100 meters, 10 ATM

Dial
Two superimposed dials, hands and indexes treated with superluminova

Strap
Handmade and hand finished alligator, black, 3 circular cuts out
Width: 20/20 mm
Tongue steel buckle, hypoallergenic and color retain treatment

Edition
Limited edition of 300 units

U-Boat CHIMERA 46 SIDEVIEW DIAMONDS
ø 46 mm – ref. 7130

Movement
Top Soigné with black screws, rhodium plated, automatic mechanical chronograph personalized to U-Boat specifications for date display and stem to be positioned at 9 o’clock
Frequency: 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz
Power reserve: 48 hours
25 jewels
Height: 7 mm

Functions
Hours, minutes, small second, chronograph 60 s,counter 30 min and 12 h
Date window at 9 o’clock

Case
AISI 316 Plus stainless steel 46 mm diameter
The carrure, the frame of the chrono pushers, the pin of the hook are treated with black PVD. Personalized rotor, in silver, 3 bridges construction, rhodium plated and fixed with blued screws
On the bezel of the case and on the lugs, 309 black diamonds have been set by hand, one by one (reversed diamonds on the lugs)
Case with a side window, with a fumé sapphire glass which allows the movements view
Crystal: sapphire curved glass on the face and flat on the back of the timepiece, both fumé
Water resistance: 100 meters, 10 ATM

Dial
Two superimposed dials, hands and indexes treated with superluminova

Strap
Handmade and hand finished alligator, black, 3 circular cuts out
Width: 20/20 mm, hypoallergenic and colour retain treatment
Tongue steel buckle, with 16 black diamonds set on the buckle side

Edition
Limited edition of 88 units

U-Boat CHIMERA 46 SIDEVIEW GOLD
ø 46 mm – ref. 7225

Movement
Top Soigné with black screws, rhodium plated, automatic mechanical chronograph personalized to U-Boat specifications for date display and stem to be positioned at 9 o’clock
Frequency: 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz
Power reserve: 48 hours
25 jewels
Height: 7 mm

Functions
Hours, minutes, small second, chronograph 60 s, counter 30 min and 12 h
Date window at 9 o’clock

Case
AISI 316 Plus stainless steel and rose gold 2N 18 K, 46 mm diameter, five pieces construction
The bezel and the back of the case are locked together by external tubing and a customised key that ensures absolute water-proofing
Personalized rotor, in silver, rhodium treated, two tone finishing, build with a base and 3 bridges fixed with blue screws
Components in rose gold: bezel, external case tubing and screws, horns of the case, hook, cup crown, chrono pushers, serial number plate
Total gold 54,4 gr
Case with a side window, with a fumé sapphire glass which allows the movements view
Crystal: sapphire curved glass on the face and flat on the back of the timepiece, both fumé
Water resistance: 100 meters, 10 ATM

Dial
Two superimposed dials, hands and indexes treated with superluminova

Strap
Handmade and hand finished alligator, black, 3 circular cuts out, hypoallergenic and color retain treatment
Width: 20/20 mm
Tongue steel buckle

Edition
Limited edition of 88 units

U-Boat CHIMERA 43 BRONZE/ B AND B
ø 43 mm – ref. 7237
ø 43 mm – ref. 7236

Movement
Automatic mechanical, modified and personalized to U-Boat specifications for stem position at 9 o’clock
Height: 4, 60 mm
25 jewels
Power reserve: 38 hours
Frequency: 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds

Case
43 mm diameter
Ref 7236 in bronze naturally aged
Ref 7237 bronze, naturally aged and AISI 316 Plus stainless steel with subsequent PVD coating treatment
Back case, external tubing and screws, protection device of the winding crown and serial number plate in bronze, naturally aged.
Case, bezel, pusher for the crown release, pin for hook, screws of the plate, fixing screws of the strap made of steel AISI 316 Plus, with PVD coating
The bezel and the back of the case are locked together by external tubing and a customised key that ensures absolute water resistance
Innovative steel crown release system (patented) at 8 o’clock for easy time and date setting
Personalized rotor, in silver, 3 bridges construction, rhodium plated and fixed with blued screws.
Thickness: 16,50 mm
Weight: 140 gr approx
Crystal: bronzed glass, sapphire curved on the front and flat crystal on the back of the timepiece, double gasket sealing
Water resistance: 100 meters, 10 ATM

Dial
Two superimposed dials, treated with composite pigments
Hour and minute hands laser cut, hand-brushed on the surface, hand-painted central joint
Second hands in bronze colour, hand brushed
Visible ruby

Strap
Handmade and hand finished calf leather, carefully selected and processed following the traditional artisan handcrafted techniques used in the 1800’s, which give the strap a naturally distressed feel and look
Tongue buckle in bronze, naturally aged (for ref 7236) and steel with subsequent coating PVD opaque black (for ref 7237)

Edition
Limited edition of 300 units

U-Boat CHIMERA 43 925
ø 43 mm – ref. 7233

Movement
Automatic mechanical, modified and personalized to U-Boat specifications for stem position at 9 o’clock
Height: 4,60 mm
25 jewels
Power reserve: 38 hours.
Frequency: 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date at 3 o’clock

Case
In sterling silver, crown on the left hand side with a special protection device, 43 mm diameter
Total weight of the silver: 100 gr.
Personalized rotor, in silver, rhodium plated, build with a base and 3 bridges fixed with blued screws
Crystal: sapphire curved glass on the face and flat on the back of the timepiece, both fume
Water resistance: 50 meters, 5 ATM

Dial
Two superimposed dials, black, bâton white hands, treated with superluminova
Visible ruby

Strap
Handmade and hand finished alligator, black, 3 circular cuts out, hypoallergenic and color retain treatment
Width: 20/20 mm
Tongue sterling silver buckle (approx 10 gr)

Edition
Limited Edition of 300 Units

U-Boat CHIMERA 43 STEEL
ø 43 mm – ref. 7227
ø 43 mm – ref. 7226
ø 43 mm – ref. 7228

Movement
Automatic mechanical, modified and personalized to U-Boat specifications for stem position at 9 o’clock
Height: 4,60 mm
25 jewels
Power reserve: 38 hours
Frequency: 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date at 3 o’clock

Case
AISI 316 Plus stainless steel, 43 mm diameter
The bezel and the back of the case are locked together by external tubing and a customised key that ensures absolute water-proofing
Personalized rotor, in silver, build with a base and 3 bridges fixed with blued screws
Thickness: 16,3 mm
Weight: 130 gr approx.
Crystal: sapphire curved glass on the face and flat on the back of the timepiece
Water resistance: 100 meters, 10 ATM

Dial
Two superimposed dials, available in black and beige
Bâton hands available in white and beige (for the black dial) and in black (for the beige dial), treated with superluminova
Visible ruby

Strap
Handmade and hand finished, hypoallergenic and colour retain treatment
For the ref 7226, alligator, brown, 3 circular cuts out
For the ref 7227, alligator, gold
For the ref 7228, alligator, black
Width: 20/20 mm
Tongue steel buckle

Edition
Limited edition of 999 units

U-Boat CHIMERA 43 DIAMONDS
ø 43 mm – ref. 7229

Movement
Automatic mechanical, modified and personalized to U-Boat specifications for stem position at 9 o’clock
Height: 4,60 mm
25 jewels
Power reserve: 38 hours
Frequency: 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date at 3 o’clock

Case
AISI 316 Plus stainless steel with subsequent treatment PVD black, 43 mm diameter
Personalized rotor, in silver, 3 bridges construction, rhodium plated in black and fixed with blued screws
On the bezel of the case and on the lugs, 277 black diamonds have been set by hand, one by one
Crystal: sapphire curved glass on the face and flat on the back of the timepiece, both fume
Water resistance: 100 meters, 10 ATM

Dial
Two superimposed dials, black, bâton white hands, treated with superluminova
Visible ruby

Strap
Handmade and hand finished alligator, black, decorated with an inset made of silver and 9 black diamonds
Width: 20/20 mm
Tongue steel buckle, embellished by 16 black diamonds

Edition
Limited edition of 88 units

U-Boat CHIMERA 43 STONES-I
ø 43 mm – ref. 7232: SAPPHIRES
ø 43 mm – ref. 7230: DIAMONDS
ø 43 mm – ref. 7231: RUBIES

Movement
Automatic mechanical, modified and personalized to U-Boat specifications for stem position at 9 o’clock
Height: 4,60 mm
25 jewels
Power reserve: 38 hours
Frequency: 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date at 3 o’clock

Case
AISI 316 Plus stainless steel
43 mm diameter
The carrure, the lever for the crown release, the tube, the pin of the hook are treated with black PVD
Personalized rotor, in silver, 3 bridges construction, rhodium plated in black and fixed with blued screws. On the bezel of the case and on the lugs, 277 precious stones (black diamonds / rubies / sapphires) have been set by hand, one by one
Crystal: sapphire curved glass on the face and flat on the back of the timepiece, both fumé.
Water resistance: 100 meters, 10 ATM

Dial
Black
Bâton hands in white, treated with superluminova

Strap
Handmade and hand finished alligator, black, decorated with an inset made of silver and precious stones (9 black diamonds / rubies / sapphires)
Width: 20/20 mm
Tongue steel buckle, embellished by 16 precious stones (black diamonds / rubies / sapphires)

Edition
Limited Edition of 88 Units

U-Boat CHIMERA 43 STONES – II
ø 43 mm – ref. 7235: Amethysts
ø 43 mm – ref. 7234: Emeralds

Movement
Automatic mechanical, modified and personalized to U-Boat specifications for stem position at 9 o’clock
Height: 4,60 mm. 25 jewels
Power reserve: 38 hours.
Frequency: 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date at 3 o’clock

Case
AISI 316 Plus stainless steel 43 mm diameter
(Bezel, cup crown protection device, serial number plate and back case ring)
The carrure, the lever for the crown release, the tube, the pin of the hook in steel, are treated with black PVD
Personalized rotor, in silver, 3 bridges construction, rhodium plated in black and fixed with blued screws
On the bezel of the case and on the lugs, 143 precious stones (emeralds / amethysts) have been set by hand, one by one
Crystal: sapphire curved glass on the face and flat on the back of the timepiece, both fume
Water resistance: 100 meters, 10 atm

Dial
Black
Bâton hands in white, treated with superluminova
Visible ruby

Strap
Handmade and hand finished alligator, black, decorated with an inset made of silver and precious stones (9 emeralds / amethysts)
Width: 20/20 mm
Tongue steel buckle, embellished by 16 precious stones (emeralds / amethysts).

Edition
Limited edition of 88 units

U BOAT – THOUSANDS OF FEET GOLD SCREWS

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

The THOUSANDS OF FEET GOLD SCREWS from U Boat is available in two case sizes: 43 mm & 50 mm. The Steel PVD case is highlighted with 18 K yellow gold bezel, with 4 yellow gold screws securing the strap to the case and finally 8 yellow gold screws which lock up the back case from the upper side.

Its black dial with luminous white hands and markers is made with two superimposed dials, one white treated with super-luminova and the other one cut, treated with composed opaque black pigments. The 50 mm version is equipped with the UNITAS 6497 mechanical hand winding and 43 mm version houses an automatic mechanical movement, which is personalized to U Boat specifications for stem to be positioned at 9 o’clock.

Technical details
ø 43 mm – Ref. 5328
ø 50 mm – Ref. 5388

Movement
For 50 mm diameter version: UNITAS 6497 mechanical hand winding, Côtes de Genève decoration and blued screws. Power reserve: 46 hours
For 43 mm diameter version: Automatic mechanical Movement. Power reserve: 40 hours. Personalized to U Boat specifications for stem to be positioned at 9 o’clock

Functions
For 50 mm diameter, hours, minutes, seconds
For 43 mm diameter, hours, minutes, seconds, date at 9 o’clock

Case
Steel 316L AISI with PVD treatment, mat finish, sand-blasted
Details in 2N 18 K yellow gold: bezel, 4 screws securing the strap to the case, 8 screws which lock up the back case from the upper side
50 mm and 43 mm diameter
Gold weight for 50 mm diameter: 18, 20 gr; for 43 mm diameter: 17, 60 gr
Thickness for 50 mm diameter: 17, 5 mm; for 43 mm diameter: 13, 2 mm
Weight for 50 mm diameter: 155 gr; for 43 mm diameter: 100 gr
Caseback: see through, black glass. 50 mm diameter with steel grate, 43 mm diameter with special steel movement holder with particular holes to reduce the weight
Crystal: black, 1, 40 mm thick
Water resistance: 100 meters, 10 ATM

Dial
Black with white hands and markers, luminous with Superluminova
Two superimposed dials, one white treated with superluminova and the other one cut, treated with composed opaque black pigments

Strap
For 50 mm diameter, hypoallergenic and non-toxic rubber with alligator inset, square scales, dark brown. Width: 26/20 mm.
For 43 mm diameter, black alligator, square scales, 3 cuts out. Width: 20/20 mm. Handmade and hand finished.

U-Boat FLIGHTDECK Collection

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

The FLIGHTDECK collection from U-Boat comprises of fine automatic chronograph timepieces. Available in stainless steel, black ceramic, Sterling Silver or 18 carat yellow gold versions, these timepieces are also offered in two case sizes, 45 mm & 50 mm.

FLIGHTDECK STEEL BEZEL
ø 50 mm – ref. 6120

Movement
Automatic mechanical chronograph personalized to U-Boat specifications for date display and stem to be positioned at 9 o’clock
Frequency: 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz
Power reserve: 44 hours
25 jewels
Height: 7 mm

Functions
Hours, minutes, small second, chronograph 60 s, counter 30 min and 12 h
Date window at 9 o’clock

Case
Steel 316L AISI, sand blast with subsequent treatment of IP Black coating, vacuum application
Special device protecting the crown
Bezel and push button in steel, satin finish
Serial numbering between the case horns
50 mm diameter
Crystal: sapphire, highly resistant, 2 mm thick.
Water resistance: 100 meters, 10 ATM.
Back: see through, personalized U-Boat oscillating weight, screwed in

Dial
Black in carbon fibre with hands and markers in relief, silver colour
Arabic numerals

Strap
Black, calf leather, exclusive aero design
Handmade and hand finished, tongue buckle with U-Boat personalization
Width 23/22 mm
Fastened to the case with screws, hypoallergenic and colour retain treatment.

FLIGHTDECK CAS BE
ø 45 mm – ref. 7117 
ø 50 mm – ref. 7119 

Movement
Automatic mechanical chronograph personalized to U-Boat specifications for date display and stem to be positioned at 9 o’clock
Frequency: 28.800 vibrations per hour,4 Hz
Power reserve: 44 hours
25 jewels
Personalized rotor, in silver, build with a base and 3 bridges fixed with blued screws

Functions
Hours, minutes, small second, chronograph 60 s, counter 30 min and 12 h
Date window at 9 o’clock

Case
Steel 316L AISI, brushed finish, distinguishing crown on left side, with a special protective device
Serial numbering between the case horns
50 mm and 45 mm diameter
Back: see through, screwed in
Crystal: sapphire, highly resistant
Water resistance: 100 meters, 10 ATM

Dial
Beige, opaque, with brown hands and markers
Arabic numerals

Strap
Handmade and hand finished alligator leather, square scale, brown, 3 circular cuts out, steel tongue buckle
Width for 50 mm diameter: 23/22 mm
Width for 45 mm diameter: 20/20 mm
Hypoallergenic and colour retain treatment
Fastened to the case with screws

FLIGHTDECK CERAMIC BEZEL
ø 50 mm – ref. 7118
ø 45 mm – ref. 7116

Movement
Automatic mechanical chronograph personalized to U-Boat specifications for date display and stem to be positioned at 9 o’clock
Frequency: 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz
Power reserve: 44 hours
25 jewels
Height: 7 mm

Functions
Hours, minutes, small second, chronograph 60 s, counter 12 at 12, counter 30 minutes at 6
Date window at 9 o’clock

Case
Steel 316L AISI, sand blast with subsequent treatment of IP Black coating, vacuum application
Serial numbering between the case horns
50 mm and 45 mm diameter
Thickness for 50 mm diameter: 17,00 mm; for 45 mm diameter: 16,90 mm
Weight for 50 mm diameter: 159 gr; for 45 mm diameter: 125 gr
Bezel: in black ceramic, shiny finish
Caseback: see through, screwed in. Personalized rotor, in silver, build with a base and 3 bridges fixed with blued screws
Crystal: sapphire, highly resistant, 2 mm thick
Water resistance: 100 meters, 10 ATM

Dial
Black in carbon fibre with hands and markers in relief, silver colour
Arabic numerals

Strap
In hypoallergenic rubber and black alligator inset, handmade and hand finished, black tongue buckle with U-Boat personalization
Width for 50 mm diameter: 23/20 mm.
Width for 45 mm diameter: 20/20 mm
Fastened to the case with screws, hypoallergenic and colour retain treatment

FLIGHTDECK CAS AND CAB
ø 50 mm – ref. 6122 – CAB
ø 50 mm – ref. 6117- CAS

Movement
Automatic mechanical chronograph personalized to U-Boat specifications for date display and stem to be positioned at 9 o’clock
Frequency: 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz
Power reserve: 44 hours
25 jewels
Height: 7 mm

Functions
Hours, minutes, small second, chronograph 60 s, counter 12 at 12, counter 30 minutes at 6
Date window at 9 o’clock


Case
Steel 316L AISI. Ref 6122 steel 316L AISI with subsequent treatment of IP Black coating, vacuum application
Distinguishing crown on left side, with a special protective device (protected as a Trade Mark)
Serial numbering between the case horns
50 mm diameter
Thickness 17 mm
Weight 159 gr
Back: see through, personalized rotor with U-Boat logo, screwed in
Crystal: sapphire, highly resistant
Water resistance: 100 meters, 10 ATM

Dial
Black with hands and markers available in white or orange, luminous with superluminova
Arabic numerals

Strap
Width 23/22 mm
Fastened to the case with screws
Handmade and hand finished
For ref. 6117 brown calf leather, with deployante buckle
For ref. 6122 black calf leather, exclusive aero design, tongue buckle.

FLIGHTDECK BLACK CERAMIC BK/BR
ø 50 mm – ref. 7094 

Movement
Top Soigné with black screws, rhodium plated, automatic mechanical chronograph personalized to U-Boat specifications for date display and stem to be positioned at 9 o’clock
Frequency: 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz
Power reserve: 44 hours
25 jewels
Height: 7 mm

Functions
Hours, minutes, second hand chronograph, counters small seconds at 3, counter 12 at 12, counter 30 minutes at 6
Date window at 9 o’clock

Case
In black ceramic, with subsequent sand blast or shinny finish, internal steel case
Diameter 50 mm
Special crown protection device on the left side, serial numbering between the horns of the case
Thickness 17,00 mm. Weight 140,00 gr.
Caseback: see-through, screwed in. Personalized rotor, in silver,  build with a base and 3 bridges fixed with blue screws
Crystal: sapphire, scratchproof, 2,02 mm thick.
Water resistance: 100 metres, 10 ATM.

Dial
Black mat with brown hands and index, in high relief
Arabic numbers

Strap
In hypoallergenic rubber and brown gold alligator inset, black tongue buckle in steel with U-Boat personalization
Width 23/20 mm
Colour retain treatment, fasten to the case with screws


FLIGHTDECK 50 CA925 BLACK
ø 50 mm – ref. 7106

Movement
Automatic mechanical chronograph modified and personalized at U-Boat specifications for date display and stem position at 9 o’clock
Frequency 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz
Power reserve 44 hours
25 jewels
Height 7 mm

Functions
Hours, minutes, small second, chronograph 60 s, counter 12 at 12, counter 30 minutes at 6
Date window at 9 o’clock

Case
Sterling silver
Crown on the left side with a special protective device and push buttons in sterling silver
Diameter 50 mm
Silver weight 119,15 gr
Thickness 17,90 mm
Caseback: see-through, sealed with 7 screws
Crystal: sapphire, highly resistant, fumé
Water resistance: 50 meters, 5 ATM

Dial
Black in carbon fiber, with hands and markers in white colour
Arabic numerals, in high relief

Strap
Calf and alligator leather
Handmade and hand finished, with sterling silver tongue buckle
Width 23/22 mm, hypoallergenic and colour retain treatment
Fasten to the case with screws

FLIGHTDECK 50 CA925 BK CASE MARTELLÈE
ø 50 mm – ref. 7285 

Movement
Automatic mechanical chronograph modified and personalized at U-Boat specifications for date display and stem position at 9 o’clock
Frequency 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz
Power reserve 44 hours
25 jewels
Height 7 mm

Functions
Hours, minutes, small second, chronograph 60 s, counter 12 at 12, counter 30 minutes at 6
Date window at 9 o’clock

Case
Sterling silver, refinished by hand using the traditional artisanal techniques, martellée finishing
Crown on the left side with a special protective device and push buttons in sterling silver
Diameter 50 mm
Silver weight 119,15 g
Thickness 17,90 mm
Caseback: see-through, sealed with 7 screws
Crystal: sapphire, highly resistant, fumé
Water Resistance: 50 meters, 5 ATM

Dial
Black in carbon fiber, with hands and markers in white colour
Arabic numerals, in high relief

Strap
Calf leather with precious inset in silver
Handmade and hand finished, with sterling silver tongue buckle
Width 23/22 mm, hypoallergenic and colour retain treatment
Fasten to the case with screws

FLIGHTDECK 50 CA925 BK CASE MARTELLÈE DIAMONDS
ø 50 mm – ref. 7287

Movement
Automatic mechanical chronograph modified and personalized at U-Boat specifications for date display and stem position at 9 o’clock
Frequency 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz
Power reserve 44 hours
25 jewels
Height 7 mm

Functions
Hours, minutes, small second, chronograph 60 s, counter 12 at 12, counter 30 minutes at 6
Date window at 9 o’clock

Case
Sterling silver, refinished by hand using the traditional artisanal techniques, martellée finishing
Crown on the left side with a special protective device and push buttons in sterling silver
Diameter 50 mm
Silver weight 119,15 g
Thickness 17,90 mm
Personalization with black diamonds set on the horns of the case, U-Boat logo, chrono pusher at 10 o’clock, buckle and precious decoration in silver set on the strap. (142 black diamonds set patiently one by one, some reversed, total CT 2,99)
Caseback: see-through, sealed with 7 screws
Crystal: sapphire, highly resistant, fumé
Water resistance: 50 mt, 5 ATM

Dial
Black in carbon fiber, with hands and markers in white colour
Arabic numerals, in high relief

Strap
Calf leather with precious inset in silver
Handmade and hand finished, with sterling silver tongue buckle
Width 23/22 mm, hypoallergenic and colour retain treatment
Fasten to the case with screws

FLIGHTDECK 925 ELEMENTIUM
ø 50 mm – ref. 7286

Movement
Automatic mechanical chronograph modified and personalized at U-BOAT specifications for date display and stem position at 9 o’clock
Frequency 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz
Power reserve 44 hours
25 jewels
Height 7 mm

Functions
Hours, minutes, small second, chronograph 60 s,counter 12 at 12, counter 30 minutes at 6
Date window at 9 o’clock

Case
Sterling silver, crown on the left side with a special protective device and push buttons in sterling silver (On the chrono pusher at 10 o’clock a black diamond (CT 0,35) has been set)
Diameter 50 mm
Silver weight 119,15 gr
Thickness 17,90 mm
Thin fissures have been patiently drilled on the case, where 204 black and brown diamonds have been set (CT black diamonds 0,46, CT brown diamonds 0,83)
Caseback: see-through, sealed with 7 screws
Crystal: sapphire, highly resistant, fumé.
Water resistance: 50 meters, 5 ATM

Dial
Black in carbon fiber, with hands and markers in white colour
Arabic numerals, in high relief

Strap
Calf leather with precious inset in silver and black diamonds setting
Handmade and hand finished, with sterling silver tongue buckle (with black and brown diamonds set on the buckle, CT 0,10)
Width 23/22 mm, hypoallergenic and colour retain treatment
Fasten to the case with screws

GOLD FLIGHTDECK 50 CA 18K
ø 50 mm – ref. 6248

Movement
Top Soigné with black screws, rhodium plated, automatic mechanical chronograph personalized to U-Boat specifications for date display and stem to be positioned at 9 o’clock
Frequency: 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz
Power reserve: 44 hours
25 jewels
Height: 7 mm

Functions
Hours, minutes, small second, chronograph 60 s,counter 30 min and 12 h
Date window at 9 o’clock

Case
Solid yellow 3N 18 K gold, satin finished by hand
Diameter: 50 mm. Exclusive protection device on the left side, push buttons and hook in 3N 18 K gold, personalized U-Boat rotor in 22 K gold, total gold weight 114,40 gr
Black diamond set on the chrono pusher at 10 o’clock
Serial numbering
Thickness: 17 mm
Weight: 183 gr
Caseback: in 3N 18 K gold, see through, screwed in
Crystal: sapphire, black, 2,02 mm thick
Water resistance: 50 meters, 5 ATM

Dial
Matt black with white hands and markers, luminous with superluminova
Arabic numerals

Strap
Handmade and hand finished alligator black leather, square scale, gold personalized U-Boat tongue buckle
Width: 23/22 mm
Hypoallergenic and colour retain treatment
Fastened to the case with 18 K gold screws

U-BOAT – U-1001 CLASSICO 47 LIMITED EDITION & U-1001 CLASSICO 55 LIMITED EDITION

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

Specially designed for professional divers, the U-1001 CLASSICO collection from U Boat offers two limited edition timepieces: U-1001 CLASSICO 47 (Ref. 6949) and U-1001 CLASSICO 55 (Ref. 5868). Both versions are equipped with automatic mechanical movements modified and personalized to U-Boat specifications for stem position at 9 o’clock.

U Boat U-1001 CLASSICO 47 LIMITED EDITION
Produced in limited edition of 300 pieces, the U-1001 CLASSICO 47 (Ref. 6949) comes in a solid stainless Steel case measuring 47 mm and treated with subsequent IPB coating. Its crown is positioned on the left side of the case, with a special protective device and helium escape valve.  Serial number is engraved on a steel plate set on the left hand side of the case. The screwed in caseback has serial numbering engraved in bas-relief.

The U-1001 CLASSICO 47 is fitted with a scratchproof sapphire crystal glass. This diving timepiece is water resistant up to 1001 meters. This timepiece boasts two superimposed dials, one in carbon fiber and the other one cut, treated with composed opaque black pigments. A date window is visible at 4’o clock.

Technical details
Model: U-1001 CLASSICO 47 LIMITED EDITION
ø 47 mm – Ref. 6949

Movement
Automatic mechanical, modified and personalized to U-Boat specifications for stem position at 9 o’clock
Height: 4, 60 mm
25 jewels
Power reserve: 38 hours
Frequency: 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz
“Skeleton” personalized U-Boat rotor

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date at 4 o’clock

Case
Steel with subsequent IPB coating
Distinguishing crown on the left side, with a special protective device and helium escape valve, serial number engraved on a steel plate, set on the left hand side of the case
Diameter: 47 mm
Caseback: screwed in, serial numbering engraved in bas-relief.
Crystal: high quality sapphire, scratchproof, 9 mm thick.
Water resistance: 1001 meters, 100 ATM

Dial
Two superimposed dials, one in carbon fiber and the other one cut, treated with composed opaque black pigments.
U-1001 calligraphy in high relief and raised
Black hands

Strap
Black, rubber hypoallergenic with plate in steel and subsequent IPB coating, deployante buckle
Width: 23/22 mm. Fastened to the case with screws

Options
The model can be assembled, on request, with flat regular sapphire glass

Edition
Limited edition of 300 units

U Boat U-1001 CLASSICO 55 Limited Edition
Produced in limited edition of timepieces of 1001 pieces in Grade 2 natural titanium the U-1001 CLASSICO 55 model boasts a distinguishing crown on left side, with a special protective device and helium escape valve. The serial number is engraved on a titanium plate set on the left hand side of the case.

Measuring 55 mm in diameter, the CLASSICO 55 model offers a water resistance up to 1001 meters. Other features include sapphire crystal glass and screw in caseback.

Technical details
Model: U-1001 CLASSICO 55 Limited Edition
ø 55 mm – Ref. 5868

Movement
Automatic mechanical, modified and personalized at U-Boat specifications for stem position at 9 o’clock
Height: 4,60 mm
25 jewels
Power reserve: 38 hours
Frequency: 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz
Rotor with Côtes de Genève decoration

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date at 4 o’clock

Case
Grade 2 natural titanium
Distinguishing crown on left side, with a special protective device (protected as a Trade Mark) and helium escape valve, serial number engraved on a titanium plate, set on the left hand side of the case
Diameter: 55 mm.
Thickness: 18,20 mm
Weight: 205 gr approx.
Caseback: screwed in, limited edition 1001 units, serial numbering engraved in bas-relief.
Crystal: high quality sapphire, scratchproof, 5,50 mm thick.
Water resistance: 1001 meters, 100 ATM.

Dial
Two superimposed dials, one treated with superluminova orange added pigments and the other one cut, treated with composed opaque black pigments
Arabic numerals, superluminova luminous hands
U1001 writing in high relief

Strap
Handcrafted brown leather
Width: 23/23 mm
Fitted with a titanium tongue buckle
Second strap black, hypoallergenic rubber with plate in titanium, deployante buckle
Width 23/22: mm
Fastened to the case with screws

Edition
Limited edition of 1001 units

U-Boat U-42 Chrono Gold Limited Edition

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

Produced in a limited edition of 99 pieces, the U-42 Chrono Gold model successfully alliances titanium with precious gold. Its case, Bi-directional rotating bezel and caseback are crafted in Titanium; whereas the minute indicators on bezel, crown, chrono button, screws on the bezel and bezel release lever are made with 18 carat gold. The 12 o’clock ball indicator on the bezel is made of ceramic.

All engravings on this piece are carried out by mechanical pantograph. The resistance of this piece is tested in an autoclave at 40 atm before the final assembly is completed. The winding crown was built in two parts: one is attached to the movement stem whilst the other is hinged to it with a pivot. This gives a flexible joint configuration which allows the crown to protrude considerably from the watch itself for winding and setting, yet returning it to a protected, hidden position, diminishing the side clutter when in action. The water-tight crown protection attached to the stem is assured by a clipping gasket in energised Polytetrafluoroethylene and by an o-ring twin-arrangement.

Equipped with an automatic movement, this timepiece offers chronograph functions, and a date indication at 9 o’clock.

Technical details
Model: U-Boat U-42 Chrono Gold Limited Edition
Limited Edition 99 Units
Ref. 6473

Movement
Automatic mechanical chronograph modified and personalized at U-Boat specifications for date display and stem position at 9 o’clock
Frequency: 28.800 vibrations per hour, 4 Hz.
Power reserve: 48 hours
25 jewels
Height: 7 mm

Functions
Hours, minutes, small second
Chronograph 60 s, counter 30 min and 12 h
Date window at 9 o’clock

Case
In titanium, with subsequent treatment of IP Black coating
Diameter: 47 mm. Case thickness: 18,90 mm
Watertight on axis reset and assured charge by PTFE gasket
Bi-directional rotating bezel, in titanium, lockable with a lever on the right side of the case
Fixing of revolving bezel by 3 screws encapsulated in the back case
The bezel removal, for maintenance and washing obtained by removing the three screws, does not affect the watch watertight
12 o’clock ball indicator on the bezel made of ceramic, minutes indicators in gold 18 K
Crown, chrono button, screws on the bezel, bezel release lever in rose gold, 18 K
Gold total weight around 15,40 gr
Caseback in titanium, fixed on case with 6 encapsulated hexagon screws in steel
Crystal: sapphire glass.
Water resistance: 300 meters, 30 ATM.

Dial
Two superimposed dials, one in rose gold 18 K and one in matt black, laser cut.
Baton hands

Strap
Handmade and hand finished alligator black leather, square scale, tongue titanium buckle, tongue of the buckle in 18 K rose gold
Width: 23/23 mm. Fastened to the case with screws

U-Boat – U-42 Automatic (Ref. 6157 and 6471) and U-42 Chrono (Ref. 6475 and 6472) Limited Editions

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

This limited edition U-42 line offers two automatic and two automatic chronograph models.These astonishing and exceptionally rare models were designed with a reinvented hand winder made from the same Grade-5 Titanium that was used for the back case, case and bezel.

All engravings on each timepiece are carried out by mechanical pantograph, including the brass dial with plate located, which is galvanised and finished with a bright enamel paste. The pressure resistance of each timepiece is tested in an autoclave at 40 bar before the final assembly is completed.

The U-42’s winding crown was built in two parts: one is attached to the movement stem whilst the other is hinged to it with a pivot. This gives a flexible joint configuration which allows the crown to protrude considerably from the watch itself for winding and setting, yet returning it to a protected, hidden position, diminishing the side clutter when in action. This type of crown is imperative under certain conditions as it is absolutely necessary for activities during which gloves are required such as underwater operations and environmental practice at Arctic temperatures. The water-tight crown protection attached to the stem is assured by a clipping gasket in energised Polytetrafluoroethylene and by an o-ring twin-arrangement.

The U-42 Automatic models displays hours, minutes and small seconds whereas the U-42 Chrono in addition to basic timekeeping functions also boasts central chronograph 60 seconds, counter for 30 min at 6’o clock and 12 hour counter at 12’o clock. Small seconds counter is positioned at 3’o clock and date window at 9 o’clock.

Technical details
U-42 Automatic Chronograph, ø 53 mm – ref. 6475
U-42 Automatic Chronograph, ø 47 mm – ref. 6472
U-42 Automatic, ø 47 mm – ref. 6471
U-42 Automatic, ø 53 mm – ref. 6157
Limited Edition 999 Units

Movement
For ref. 6157 and 6471 automatic mechanical, personalized to U-Boat specifications for stem to be positioned at 9 o’clock. Power reserve: 40 hours.
For ref. 6475 and 6472 automatic mechanical chronograph modified and personalized at U-Boat specifications for date display and stem position at 9 o’clock. Power reserve: 48 hours.

Functions
Ref. 6157 and 6471: hours, minutes, small seconds
Ref. 6475 and 6472: hours, minutes, small second, chronograph 60 s, counter 30 min and 12 h. Date window at 9 o’clock.

Case
In titanium
Diameter: 47 mm or 53 mm
Charge axis, stop crown lever, stop glass handles, bezel runners, and strap pivots in steel AISI 316
Watertight on axis reset and assured charge by PTFE gasket
Bi-directional rotating bezel, in titanium, lockable with a lever on the right side of the case
Fixing of revolving bezel by 3 screws encapsulated in the back case
The bezel removal, for maintenance and washing obtained by removing the three screws, does not affect the watch watertight
12 o’clock ball indicator on the bezel made of ceramic
Caseback in titanium fixed on case with 6 encapsulated hexagon screws in steel.
Crystal: sapphire glass.
Water resistance: 300 meters, 30 ATM

Dial
Matte black, markers treated with superluminova (peach color)
Baton hands, treated with superluminova

Strap
Handmade and hand finished calf leather, carefully selected and  processed following the traditional artisan handcrafted techniques used  in the 1800’s, which give the strap a naturally distressed feel and look
Tongue buckle in titanium

OREFICI REGATA CHRONOGRAPH RETROGRADE EDITION

MasterHorologer

A more modern version of regata yacht racing is regatta powerboat racing. The REGATA CHRONOGRAPH collection from OREFICI is designed specifically for the sportsman who enjoys passion and extremes and expects the same from his timepiece. Miami, Florida was the inspiration for this line where powerboats replace classic sailboats and this sport is taken to another level.

OREFICI REGATA CHRONOGRAPH RETROGRADE EDITION

REGATA CHRONOGRAPH has timekeeping and stopwatch functions, a 1/20 of a second retrograde counter at 6 o’clock, and two sub dials at 3 and 9 o’clock.

The retrograde feature allows the wearer to chronograph speed much quicker to 1/20 of a second; an essential need in powerboat racing. With moveable lugs, this timepiece molds to any wrist for a perfect fit, every time.

Technical details

Model: Regata Chrono Retrograde

  • Case: S/S 316 L Plus 48 Mm
  • Movement: Chronograph Retrograde
  • Function: Chronograph 1/20 of Second
  • Band: Silicon Gel
  • Glass: K1 Sapphire Coating Anti-Reflex
  • Water resistance: 10 ATM / 330 feet

OREFICI SUBACQUEO TRENTA

MasterHorologer

The resemblance of a beautiful starfish signifies that the OREFICI SUBACQUEO TRENTA watch was inspired from sea-life that is much closer to the ocean’s floor.

The Trenta watch was designed for underwater diving, exploration, and boating; with capabilities of around 100 meters or 330 feet in depth. The Trenta watch has precision seals that will withstand a great number of dives and still hold true time. It also meets the ISO 6425 Standard.

OREFICI SUBACQUEO TRENTA

The Trenta bezel has markings to give the diver an accurate measurement of bottom time. It has been engraved to be legible in all water/land applicable scenarios. The rotating bezel is suitable for shallow single gas (air) diving only.

It can also be used in other situations in which a measurement of elapsed time is needed. The Trenta bezel is unidirectional; it contains a ratchet so it can only be turned counter-clockwise to increase the apparent elapsed time. It is an important “fail-safe” feature when going diving.

OREFICI SUBACQUEO TRENTA

The Trenta bezel has ten slanted face/sides that helps repel water and also has engraved numbers that can be clearly read. In place of the “30” you can find a signature “TRENTA”, which is Italian for thirty at the 6 O’ clock position.

At the twelve hour; the bezel has a distinct cut that indicates a true zero and start point for diving time. The top side is engraved with “Immersion Point” followed by a directional arrow as an indicator for counter-clockwise movement.

The face on the OREFICI SUBACQUEO TRENTA watch has slanted outer walls that have the 1-60 indexes; the 12 & 6 and indexes are all embossed off the perforated face resembling the material scuba tanks are coated with. The face is simple indeed but yet accurate and sufficient to keep track of time. The face has depth that makes the time and date clear to see in or out of the water.

Technical details

Model: Subacqueo Trenta Chronograph

  • Case: S/S 316 L Plus 48 mm.
  • Movement: SWISS Chronograph Date
  • Band: OREFICI Embossed/Silicon Gel
  • Glass:K1 Sapphire Coating Anti-Reflex
  • Water Res:10 ATM / 330 Feet

Orefici EJ VISO REGATA LIMITED EDITION

MasterHorologer

Italian watchmaker Orefici has designed another very unique version of one of the brand’s best sellers, The Regata. This Swiss made chronograph watch is limited to 555 pieces worldwide.

This remarkable time piece completes the Orefici collection inspired on the IndyCar driver EJ Viso and was designed to make a bold and solid statement that will certainly caught everyone’s attention.

Orefici EJ VISO REGATA LIMITED EDITION

The case has been engineered with precision and detail to achieve an overall one of a kind case. This has been perfected using a CNC process that is held to great tolerances. The bezel has been designed from an IndyCar brake rotor and hub and it has slotted grooves around the bezels edge as in the actual IndyCar. The Pit/Stop and Reset to the pushers to give it an authentic racing feeling.

Orefici EJ VISO REGATA LIMITED EDITION

EJ Viso’s Regata has a face with a perforated design revealing the movement underneath, giving the watch some depth and complexity. The embossed 12, 3, 6, and 9 with red inlays indicate the hour along with some raised indexes, and EJ Viso’s own signature representing Orefici and this astounding design.

Technical details

Model: EJ Viso Regata Limited Edition

  • Case: S/S 316 L Plus 48 mm.
  • Movement: SWISS Chronograph Date
  • Band: OREFICI Embossed/Silicon Gel
  • Glass: K1 Sapphire Coating Anti-Reflex
  • Water resistance: 10 ATM / 330 Feet

STOWA FLIEGER TO1 TESTAF

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

Introduced by STOWA in 2013, the FLIEGER TESTAF TO1 is a new generation pilot watch which was created according to TESTAF, the new standard for pilot watches in the watch industry.

Since the late 1930‘s STOWA has been creating exceptional pilot watches offering high legibility in a simple classical design. Earlier the pilot watches were relatively big (55 mm diameter) so they could be worn for example over a leather jacket. STOWA always concentrated its attention on the future and reinterpreted the former pilot watches and developed them further by exploiting all technical possibilities.

FLIEGER TESTAF TO1

TESTAF is the new standard for pilot watches in the watch industry developed by Fh Aachen to determine the regulations for modern wrist-pilot watches with analogue time display. Until now there was no clear definition for pilot watches (like for example for diving watches, DIN 8306/ISO 6425). Therefore the FH Aachen developed and submitted this new standard for pilot watches in cooperation with the German watch company Sinn. STOWA, with a 70 year experience in building pilot watches, decided immediately to participate in this certification procedure.

With the certification of the FH Aachen it will be possible for the first time to test the quality of the watch in a scientific developed procedure. Function, design and quality have to pass a complex testing procedure. STOWA is among the first brands to participate in this new project.

STOWA will continue to build traditional and historical seeming pilot watches, but its new model FLIEGER TO 1 TESTAF went one step further into the future by passing all TESTAF tests right away in the fall of 2013. In FLIEGER TESTAF TO1, STOWA has incorporated the following innovations to match the stringent regulations of TESTAF:-

  • Use of a titanium casing due to the magnetic signature of stainless steel (Stainless steel housing may influence the classical compass which is used in an airplane)
  • Un-detachable bezel construction
  • Special thick sapphire crystals to resist safely the shock testing
  • Viton seals for crown and case. Viton is a sealing material which is besides others used in space flights.
  • Special thick luminous colour coating in white (Superluminova BWG 9) achieve a perfect contrast.
  • Screwed lugs

Technical details
Case
Diameter: 45/46 mm, height: 12.90 mm
Material: titanium, matt
Water proof: 20 bar = 200 meters waterproof according to DIN 8310
Low pressure proof by special thick crystal sealings
Bezel: turnable on both sides, un-detachable screwed construction
Cone: special thick diameter for improved stability
Crown: titanium
Seals: Viton on crown and case, a sealing material used at space flights
Crystal: AR-coated sapphire crystal on both sides, front sapphire crystal domed

Dial
Black matt, white printed, Superluminova BWG9 (white illuminating colour, at night light blue luminous)
Hands: Superluminova BWG 9

Movement
ETA 2824-2 in TOP quality, rhodium-coated, Genève strips finish, golden STOWA engraving, blued screws, shockproof acc. to DIN 8308, and antimagnetic acc. to DIN 8309

Strap 
Buffalo leather or rubber strap fixed on very solid un-detachable and screwed lugs

Orologi Calamai – G-50 Automatic Chronograph & G 50 Automatic Date

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

The G-50 watch collection from Orologi Calamai takes inspiration from the legendary combat fighter jet F 104, also known as “Starfighter”, one of the most significant aircrafts of the post WWII period. The Lockheed F-104 Starfighter is a single-engine, high-performance, supersonic interceptor aircraft originally developed for the United States Air Force. The first combat aircraft capable of sustained Mach 2 flight, F-104 was operated by the air forces of more than a dozen nations from 1958 to 2004. Put to rest in 2004, the fighter jet remains as a symbol of incredible speed and technology.

Lockheed F-104, Picture courtesy: Wikipedia

The G-50 watch has been forged from the steel of the General electric turbine that equipped on the F-104 of the Italian Airforce. The G-50, the unique piece of engineering is handmade to stand the test of time.

The technique of “micro-fusion” has been use in order to obtain a total cleanness of the material, just like it used to be for the supersonic fighter. The case has been extracted from full via the electric-erosion technology. The satined glossy finish has been hand made on each watch.

As of now, the G-50 watch is available in two versions: Automatic chronograph and Automatic date and available in black or white dial variations. These timepieces offer extreme readability, and equipped with robust and precise Swiss made movements certified by C.O.S.C. Assembled by a well experienced master watch maker, each timepiece reflects indescribable quality, passion and life long experience of a true craftsman. Each timepiece is a one of a kind.

The Chronograph model is equipped with a Swiss made, COSC certified SOP 2021/A10-2 mechanical automatic movement with a power reserve of 38 hours. It has three chronograph counters: 60 seconds counter at 3’o clock, 12 hour counter at 6’o clock and 30 minutes counter at 9’ o clock. A date indicator is positioned at 4.30’o clock. The three position crown at 3’o clock is used for winding of the movement, setting of time and changing of date. The bidirectional rotating bezel can be set by using the crown at 8’o clock. Two push buttons at 2’o clock (time countdown) and 4’o clock (reset to zero) control the chronograph functions.

The Automatic date model, which offers basic time keeping functions along with a date indicator at 3’ clock, is equipped with SOP A10SQ-2 calibre. This mechanical automatic winding movement is Swiss Made and also certified by COSC. The 3 position crown at 3’ clock is used for winding the movement, date and time setting.

In both models, to manually charge the watch, turn the crown clockwise approximately 30 turns by keeping in position 1 and after that the watch will automatically load with the movement of the wrist.

Each timepiece will be supplied with a unique single and original Swiss Chronometric (C.O.S.C) certification.

C.O.S.C. “Controle  Officiel Suisse des Cronometres” is a  Swiss agency which conducts  precision tests and examinations on movements of each single watch, fundamental to the concession of Official Chronograph status. Not all movements can obtain the C.O.S.C. The design and assembly of the movement need a peculiar precision. The quality and the origin of materials have to comply with specific standards. In order to pass these tests the movements have to be designed from the origin as Chronometers movements; the quality and origin of the materials, such as the assembling and the precision of various components, require high level of precision and care.

Each single movement is tested by C.O.S.C. for many days in different positions and at different temperatures. Each single movement must past all seven C.O.S.C. test parameters in order to obtain the C.O.S.C. certification. Each chronograph is unique and identifiable by the number of the C.O.S.C. certification which is carved on the movement. The same number is also engraved on the case back of the watch.

G-50 Chronograph

Versions
Cronografo bianco (white dial)
Cronografo nero (black dial)

Movement
SOP 2021/A10-2, 13 1/4’’’ Calibre
Swiss Made Automatic
Frequency:  4 [hz]/28 800 vph
Power reserve Min:  38 hours

Functions
Hours/minutes/Secconds
Chronograph 60S/12H/30m counters
Date indication at 4.30 hrs

G 50 Automatic Date

Versions
Solotempo bianco (white dial)
Solotempo nero(black dial)

Movement
SOP A10SQ-2 Swiss made automatic, 11 1/2’’’
Functions: Hours/minutes /centre seconds, date
Jewels: 25
Frequency: 4hz/28 800 vph
Power reserve: 42 hours

 

PEQUIGNET Equus Collection (40th Anniversary Editions)

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

In 2013, French watch manufacture PEQUIGNET celebrated its 40th anniversary, and to mark this occasion the brand unveiled special editions of their Equus Collection.

Emile PEQUIGNET founded his own brand in 1973 and set himself up in Morteau, in the heart of the Jura watchmaking region. The genetic code for the Pequignet brand is therefore the characteristic design of the Moorea straps, and their polished links are Emile Pequignet’s hallmark.

Since the early 1980s, the Emile Pequignet brand has been associated with the world of horse riding. This relationship led to the Equus collection in 1987, which was aimed at those who shared a love of horses and beautiful timepieces. With its silver dial stamped like a coin, the Moorea Equus bears its motto: Hominis Nobilissima Victoria.

The Moorea collection has stood the test of time and represents Pequignet’s other cornerstone, which continues to attract the brand’s enthusiasts. In 2013, the Equus range was revisited and modernised, but with a nod to the past. The leather strap is secured by two lugs which curve in from the very flat gold or steel case.

Each model is individually numbered from 1 to 500.While still retaining the case’s original pure and classic lines, the new EQUUS timepieces perfectly unite elegance and subtlety. Inspirational details complement and match the simple design: Saddle leather and clasp buckles in the shape of stirrups.

EQUUS 2013 RANGE – Women
Model: Silvered dial with stamped decoration
Pearlised small seconds counter
Pequignet-marked hands
316L steel case or PVD 5N case
Non-reflecting sapphire crystal
Ronda quartz movement
40th anniversary limited edition engraving
Black calfskin strap, satin pink strap, ecru top-stitching on gold calfskin strap or white varnished strap.
Ardillon buckle with fleur-de-lis logo
Each model is individually numbered from 1 to 500

Model: White dial with stamped decoration
Pearlised small seconds counterand date at 6 o’clock
Pequignet-marked hands
PVD 5N case or 316L steel case
Non-reflecting sapphire crystal
Ronda quartz movement
40th anniversary limited edition engraving.
Ecru top-stitching on gold calfskin strap, white varnished strap,black calfskin strap or satin pink strap.
PVD 5N or 316L steel case ardillon buckle with fleur-de-lis logo.

The EQUUS range also features two men’s models with a 42 mm case.  This steel watch has a large date and displays the days of the week.

LIGNE EQUUS 2013 – Gent
Transferred Roman numerals on a black or white dial
Small seconds counter at 6 o’clock
Retrograde day counter at 10 o’clock
Dual-window large date
Pequignet-marked hands
316L steel case
Non-reflecting sapphire crystal
Ronda quartz movement
40th anniversary limited edition engraving
Gold or black calfskin strap
Deployant buckle with fleur-de-lis logo
Each model is individually numbered from 1 to 500

Lew & Huey Riccardo

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

Founded by Chris Vail, Lew & Huey is a Philadelphia based watch brand that produces affordable and reliable automatic timepieces. Like many new generation watch brands, Lew & Huey started their operations with the help of crowd funding and social media campaigns.

Chris Vail, in a quest for affordable automatic timepieces, created the watch brand Lew & Huey in 2012. He done extensive research, and browsed in popular watch forums for a positive response in order to create good looking, reliable, yet affordable automatic timepieces.

The brand name “Lew & Huey” is inspired from the Chinese Mandarin phrase ‘luen huey’ which means reincarnation or rebirth. Lew & Huey has an interesting logo inspired by the saying ‘Every dog has his day’.

Lew & Huey Riccardo
In 2013, Lew & Huey introduced its first timepiece Riccardo; an affordable automatic timepiece that houses a Seagull ST1940 Automatic Chronograph movement and offers excellent features that a high end chronograph timepiece can provide.

This model, priced under $600, was launched through KickStarter crowd funding campaign and all timepieces in the inaugural edition of Riccardo Chronograph are now completely sold out. The Riccardo Chronograph was the Watchuseek.com members’ choice for the title of Affordable Watch of 2013.

Technical details
Case: 316L Stainless Steel
Diameter: 42 mm
Anti-Reflective Sapphire Glass Display
Transparent Sapphire and Stainless Steel Caseback
Water resistance: 100 meters
Strap: Brown or Black Leather Strap with contrasting colour stitches and signed deployant clasp
1 Year manufacturer’s warranty

Fiona Krüger Skull Watch

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

SKULL is Fiona Krüger’s statement time piece, drawing inspiration from the 17th century SKULL watch of Mary Queen of Scots, the Mexican celebration of Dia de Los Muertos and beautifully decorated skeleton movements found in today’s luxury watches.

This watch is produced as a limited edition of 12 pieces; each piece is hand-made in Switzerland and powered by a Swiss mechanical manual wind movement with a 5-day power-reserve.

SKULL’s hand-decorated 3-layer dial, with hand-painted gold lacquer details, mirrors the aesthetics of the movement underneath, highlighting the mechanical aspect of the watch.

Encased in a hand-polished stainless steel SKULL-shaped case the watch is complimented by a hand-made premium calf-leather wrist-band.

Technical details

Model & ref number SKULL: FKST

Case
Stainless Steel 316N
Case size: 57.4 × 41.3 mm (length × width), 10.3mm thick
Glass: Sapphire

Dial
3 layered dial in stainless steel 316N with hand-painted gold lacquer décor
Layer 1: Hand-polished stainless steel and gold-lacquer décor
Layer 2: Shot-blasted stainless steel and gold-lacquer décor
Layer 3: Hand-finished with Circular graining (perlage) and gold-lacquer décor
Hands: Blued steel

Movement
Mechanical Manual movement, TT718

Bracelet
Hand-stitched leather
Buckle: Steel pin buckle

Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraphe (Edition 2013)

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

Introduced in 2009 as the part of Parmigiani Fleurier’s Haute Horlogerie collection the Tondagraphe celebrated two major new features: a grand complication combining a chronograph and a tourbillon at six o’clock, housed in an elegant white gold case. In 2013, Parmigiani Fleurier re-issued this model in two editions limited to ten pieces.

Combining the hypnotic beauty of the tourbillon with the technical prowess of the chronograph, this model is brought to life by the manufacture calibre PF 354 which boasts a 72-hour power reserve and comprises 295 components.

The bevelling of the two tourbillon bridges alone requires 20 hours of work to achieve the required quality of finish, and the cage will take almost 40 hours. But the tourbillon is the horological complication that requires the greatest skill; its mechanism is the personification of time itself. Standing out perfectly on the dial at 6 o’clock, the cage that encloses the regulating organ turns on its axis at a rate of one rotation a minute: the heart of the watch seems to beat and breathe life into the assembly.

The main aesthetic developments for this model are seen in the style of the dial, which offers a new balance. While it has retained its organisation and the original combination of materials, it demonstrates a desire for clarity and a return to the essential. The inclusion of new understated and elegant Parmigiani numerals makes it easy to read, while the two second and minute chronometer counters stand opposite each other in the centre of the dial. At 12 o’clock, the power reserve also boasts this same spirit and echoes the decorations on the tourbillon. The wearer can admire the bevelling of its bridge, and the perlage work on the barrel. True to the same style codes and quality of finish, these functions are showcased by a snailed circular dial, which is both fresh and dynamic.

Technical details
Model: Tondagraphe Tourbillon – Chronograph

Movement
PF 354
Tourbillon movement – hand-wound chronograph
72-hour power reserve
Calibre 13 ¼’’’– Ø 29.90 mm
Thickness: 7.6 mm
Frequency: 3 Hz – 21,600 Vib/h
29 jewels
Number of components: 295
Hand-bevelled main plate and bridges

Functions
Hour
Minute
Power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
¼ second chronograph (large central seconds, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock)

Case
3-part round case: Ø 43 mm. Thickness: 13.3 mm
Material: 18 ct white gold. Polished finish
Water resistance: 30 m
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Crown: Ø 7 mm
Case-back with sapphire crystal
10-piece numbered edition
Individual numbering on the case-back

Dial
Opaline dial outer and counters, circular snailed inner, applique indexes
Delta-shaped hands with luminescent coating

Strap
Hermès alligator leather strap with 18 carat gold ardillon buckle, polished finish

DAVOSA Vintage Rally Pilot Chronograph

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

Swiss watchmaker DAVOSA has launched its first “Pilot” chronograph to mark the centenary of the Wright brothers’ historic flight in 2003. In 2013 the popular model celebrated its own anniversary: ten years of the DAVOSA Pilot chronograph.

DAVOSA celebrates the occasion with the release of a Vintage model series. Although the watches’ technical functions are based on those of the first Pilot model, they also feature a dial design with telemeter and tachymeter scale which is over a century old. The three Vintage Pilot models are available to purchase from specialist watch retailers from November 2013 for 1,598 Euros. Customers can select either a black or white dial.

Intelligent co-pilot for aviators and rally drivers
Chronographs can gauge more than time alone. Provided that the correct scale is shown on the dial, they can also help wearers determine speeds and distances, thus eliminating the need for complex calculations involving physical constants and formulas. These features were once essential characteristics of a watch, particularly for pilots and rally drivers, be it to ascertain the proximity of a storm (telemeter) or the average speed of a race (tachymeter). The DAVOSA Vintage Rally Pilot can do both – the inner bezel features a telemeter scale, while the totaliser area, with subsidiary dials, boasts a triple tachymeter scale.

Telemeter and tachymeter – sonic speed and milestones
A telemeter scale enables the calculation of the distance between an acoustic signal and its own position. Or, put more simply, it can be used to determine the proximity of a storm. To do this, the chronograph is started when lightning strikes and stopped at the first clap of thunder. It is then possible to gauge how far away the storm is by reading the telemeter scale and using the second hand as a counter.

The scale is based on the well-known sonic speed value (343 m/s or 1,235 km/h), and was originally employed in a military context. It was used to determine the enemy’s position via muzzle flashes and cannon fire.

The tachymeter scale, which chiefly benefited rally drivers, is based on a similar principle. It works by starting the chronograph at a wayside milestone and stopping it when the next one is passed. The second hand then displays the average speed on the scale. The colour coding principle is used to distinguish the tachymeter scale on the Vintage Rally Pilot; marked in red or blue, it contrasts with the dial, depending on the model in question.

Characteristic – onion crown and manually-blued hands
Pilots and racing drivers used to wear gloves. As a result, their timepieces were equipped with large, convenient crowns – so-called onion crowns, to ensure they could wind up and operate their watches while flying and driving. The first Pilot model boasted this special feature.

The DAVOSA Vintage Rally Pilot’s antique, manually-blued hands are a further homage to bygone days. They are heated over a naked flame until they develop the desired shade of blue. Although these hands are now industrially mass-produced, DAVOSA opted for the manually-blued, considerably more elaborate handiwork.

A linchpin proven over decades
The drive isn’t just crucial for aircraft and racing cars – it also plays a central role in watchmaking. The quality of a chronograph largely depends on the precision of its movement. All DAVOSA Pilot models incorporate an automatic chronograph movement which has been proving its worth for decades – the Valjoux 7750.

This classic mechanism has been used, with minimal modification, in high-quality chronographs since 1973. Connoisseurs appreciate its compact, precise and robust design. DAVOSA also grants wearers a special view of the watches’ interior. The glass underside provides a glimpse of the elaborately finished movement: Côtes de Genève on the rotor, circular-grained bridges, rhodium plating and blued screws.

Technical details
Model:  Vintage Rally Pilot Chronograph
Reference:  161.008.56 (black/red), 161.008.46 (white/blue)
Case:  stainless steel with sapphire glass and screwed back, water resistant to 10 ATM
Strap:   leather strap with holes, contrast stitching and buckle
Movement: mechanical automatic movement, Valjoux 7750 (ETA), nicely embellished
Dimensions:  diameter: 42.0 mm, height: 15.6 mm
Priced at 1,598 Euros

MeisterSinger Pangaea Day Date

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

The MeisterSinger Pangaea is also available with day and date display. Introduced in 2013, the Pangaea day and date features day and date rings that stylistic highlight MeisterSinger’s design maxims. The date and day of the week can easily be read next to the twelve without losing sight of the time or the other days. Besides its functionality, the Pangaea Day Date also stands out thanks to another visual feature. At just 10, 5 mm thick its case snuggles around any wrist and becomes the perfect suit accessory for a sporty, elegant style.

Technical details
Model: Pangaea Day Date
Movement: Sellita SW 220-1
Diameter: 40 mm
Case: Stainless steel, open back, water resistant to 5 bar, Sapphire crystal
Special Features: Single hand, day and date display
Versions: white, ivory, anthracite

Roger W. Smith – The GREAT Britain Watch

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

Considered to be the finest watchmaker in the world, Roger Smith has created a unique watch to celebrate GREAT Britain, the ambitious international marketing campaign initiated by British Government to showcase the very best of what Britain has to offer in order to encourage the world to visit, study and do business with the UK.  The campaign is currently active in over 134 countries and seeks to promote British excellence and creativity around the world.

Watches made in the Roger Smith studio can rightly claim to be made to a standard which goes way beyond what is normally considered to be a luxury watch. Fewer than ten pieces are created per year and each is conceived out of The Daniels Method, (devised by Dr George Daniels) requiring every single timekeeping component to be handmade within the watchmaker’s studio. Roger is the only watchmaker in the world able to complete an entire watch in this way and, as such, his watches are often considered pieces of‘mechanical art’ – but they are equally famed for their functional perfection.

The timekeeping heart of Roger’s watches is his own recent evolution of the most significant advancement in mechanical timekeeping for 250 years – the Daniels Co-axial escapement. Roger’s studio is located at the centre of the British Isles, in the Isle of Man –globally recognised as a centre of excellence for watch making.

Roger Smith watches are also the first production watches to have been designed and made entirely within the British Isles for over 50 years and, in 2013, Roger Smith was appointed as a partner for the Great Britain campaign.

The GREAT Britain watch is a unique piece designed and made by Roger Smith to celebrate the Creativity, Innovation and Technology which make Britain GREAT. The watch has been loaned for the duration of the campaign and will travel the world to help promote the best of British in key trade markets.

The Case
The case has been hand-fabricated using traditional British case making methods.  Three strips of platinum were rolled to the correct size and bent to form circular rings. The rings were then individually soldered together and driven under great pressure into a tapered former.  The result is three perfect circles – one for the back, middle and front of the case.

The front and back rings were machined to form the profiles, followed by the cutting of the sapphire crystal seats. The strap-lugs were hand soldered onto the middle ring and then profiled, prior to the case been sent for assaying in London The buckle was also fabricated by hand from Platinum and hand engraved with the maker’s name (R.W. Smith).

The Dial
The GREAT Britain Watch dial sets new standards for British watch making and ranks as probably one of the most complex dials to have ever been designed and made by hand.

Signed R.W. Smith and GREAT Britain Made from sterling silver with applied blued steel Roman numeral batons, the multi-relief, three dimensional dial is comprised of some thirty-four individual parts which describe an off-centre Union flag.

Taking three months to design, prototype and make, the individual dial components were engine-turned and engraved by hand. The dial was made using processes developed by Roger and draws on over three hundred years of British watch making history, several engine-turned patterns were used in the making of the dial and each one was hand cut on the Daniels’ original Straight-line engine. However, the process did not stop there and the lettering was also cut by hand.

This was followed by a series of repetitive treatments, as the dial was steadily assembled using a complex process of silver soldering. This process entails heating the delicate components with a flame (to a temperature of 730 degrees centigrade) until the solder melts and bonds the two metals together.

This treatment stage was followed by many high-precision machining processes before the next stage of silver soldering could commence. This series of processes was repeated many times until the dial’s Union Flag design was complete.

The dial background was flame whitened prior to the fitting of the flame-blued Roman numeral batons. All lettering was then inked in by hand.  Although complex and time consuming, the traditional materials used in the dial’s construction mean that it has an infinite life-span and renders the dial a work of art in its own right.

The Hands
Displaying minutes, hours and seconds, the three dimensional, sculpted hands are Roger Smith’s signature design.  Finished by use of the Daniels method the hands are hand-polished and flame-blued to a purple and blue hue.  It takes five days of painstaking work before the hands are finished to a standard high enough to be fitted to an R.W.Smith watch.

The movement design
 “I have a very personal aesthetic motivation when designing my movements. In particular, I have Always avoided the slimmer and flatter movements which lack strength, life and a certain spirit! This is why, from the outset, the aesthetics have to be very three-dimensional in appearance, in line with the tradition of great British watch making at its peak some two to three hundred years ago” Says Roger Smith.

One example of this approach is the use of steel components throughout Roger Smith’s mechanisms, all made from material which is a minimum of 0.50mm thick. There are practical reasons for what might initially just seem an extravagant use of material; primarily it is for strength but also, more importantly, for the long term future of the component. Additionally it assists Roger in creating depth within the architecture of the mechanism.

“Strength and rigidity are little-used words in watch making and yet are essential for good, reliable timekeeping and indeed for the long term future of the piece. Therefore on the reverse of the mechanism there is a large plate, more commonly called a ‘raised barrel bridge’. This raised section not only hides the ratchet wheel, click work and crown wheel, but also gives great rigidity to the movement – this was a traditional feature used solely for the highest quality British work”, Remarked the master watchmaker.

The finish
The finish given to the watch is described as an ‘English finish’ and can be characterised by the gilded and frosted plates and bridges which elegantly frame the black polish applied to the gold cocks, jewel chatons and steel work. The hand flame-blued screws with their purple and blue hue firmly secure the gilded bridges and cocks in place and add further richness to the palette and texture of the movement.

This attention to detail continues throughout Roger’s mechanisms and goes far beyond normal standards. The under-dial work, usually ignored, is finished to the same standard as can be seen through the glazed back, with a black polish and bevel again being applied to all steel and gold components.

In fact this approach continues through to the three-dimensional hand polished and finished hands which are sculpted from a sheet of material 0.50mm thick. This height assists in giving the hands legibility and a feel which is simply not attainable when hands are made from thinner sections.

The escapement
The heart of Roger Smith’s watches is the invention which revolutionised mechanical timekeeping – the Daniels Co-axial escapement. This invention was a culmination of the life’s work of Roger’s mentor, Dr George Daniels (1926 – 2011).

Continuing Daniels’ quest to perpetually challenge what has previously been achieved in mechanical timekeeping, Roger has deployed his own evolution of the Co-axial escapement in the GREAT Britain watch.

This new, second generation Single Wheel Co-axial escapement is set to establish new standards in British watch making.

However, the GREAT Britain watch now Features the culmination of a further two years’ development to the Single Wheel Co-axial to a new level by radically lightening the escape wheel by 23% which benefits the performance of the escapement with a faster acceleration and less abrupt deceleration.

The story of the escapement
Conceived by Dr. George Daniels in 1975, the Co-axial escapement is regarded the most significant advancement in mechanical timekeeping since the invention, by Thomas Mudge, of the Lever escapement (first used in 1769).

The principle feature of the Co-axial escapement is that it transmits power through to the oscillator via a radial impulse which is impervious to the deterioration of an applied lubricant.  In sharp contrast, Mudge’s Lever escapement transmits its energy through a long-sliding action which is reliant upon lubrication for its efficient function. When this lubricant ages, in combination with the long-sliding action, the performance of the Lever escapement is affected and, ultimately, its timekeeping properties deteriorate.

An insight and development
Roger has been working with the Co-axial escapement since 1998 and, over this lengthy time, he came to the conclusion that an important improvement could be made to the construction of the escape wheel.

The GREAT Britain watch represents the culmination of Roger’s continuous quest to challenge and improve the mechanical timekeeper.

Understanding that concentric and angular errors were occurring in the assembly of the two wheels onto a shared arbor (causing variable performance in the escapement), Roger strove to eliminate these vagaries by combining the two wheels into one.

This had the immediate benefit of guaranteeing a closer concentricity and angular orientation between the two sets of teeth and their common arbor, with a distinct improvement of escapement performance being noted. First fitted into a Series 2 made in 2010, the Single Wheel Co-axial escapement represents a significant evolution of the timekeeper.

At the heart of the GREAT Britain Watch timekeeping function is Roger’s most recent development of this technology.

Presentation
The GREAT Britain watch is presented in a handmade presentation box in English Oak with a Union Jack design to the lid, by Linley.

Features
Combined design and build time – 10 Months
Project dates – March to November 2013
Value – £180,000

Technical details
Movement
Signed Roger W Smith and Great Britain
A unique piece – the one-of-a-kind mechanism has been designed specifically for GREAT Britain.
Three dimensional movement architecture
Hand built
Manually wound
3/4 plate with floral hand engraved  raised barrel bridge, fitted with the  Isle of Man’s Triskellion symbol  and two applied sterling silver  cartouches engraved GREAT  Britain and MMXIII, both secured  with blued screws
Single wheel Daniels Co-axial escapement developed by Roger Smith
Free sprung balance
23 jewels
Gilded and frosted hand engraved plates
Red gold chatons and cocks
Screws, flame blued to a purple and blue hue

Case
Three piece, hand made
Material: Platinum
Hand engraved – GREAT Britain Hallmarked in London 2013

Andreas Strehler Sauterelle

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

In his Sauterelle model, for the first time in a wristwatch, master watch maker Andreas Strehler offers a mechanical solution which filters nearly all technical and mechanical factors impeding the escapement. The constant and linear supply of energy to the balance is the ideal in watchmaking. It is the basis for precision.

Andreas Strehler Sauterelle watch

Conventionally, the complication known in watchmaking as force constante is mounted on the escapement wheel. However, this is the point of least torque in the whole movement. By contrast, Andreas Strehler has placed his remontoir d’égalité on the seconds wheel. Every second, the visible satellite gear supplies the escapement wheel with exactly the same amount of energy.

Andreas Strehler Sauterelle watch force constant mechanism

At the same time, the deadbeat or jumping seconds are indicated. The energy is accumulated in the course of every second by a star shaped satellite through the tensioning of a hairspring.

The mechanism is then released, the balance receives the energy stored in the hairspring and the satellite wheel again rests against the stopping jewel. This solution has the advantage that the complete escapement, including the escapement wheel, moves freely between two impulses, uninfluenced by the movement.

The remontoir d’égalité therefore leaves the Swiss anchor escapement unimpeded; an escapement type perfected over a period of more than 200 years. With the remontoir d’égalité, Andreas Strehler concentrates on the elimination of outside factors: Fluctuations in the supply of energy, flaws in the gear train uneven discharge of the spring, uneven running of the gear train or the wheels actuating the hands and variations in temperature viscosity of lubricants are filtered by the remon- toir d’égalité.

Different from a force constante with its fixed division ratio, the remontoir d’égalité can be used independently of the movement’s frequency. For this reason, the Sauterelle’s movement has a frequency of 21 600 A/h resulting in higher precision.

The name “Sauterelle” – registered as a trademark by Andreas Strehler in 2008 – was chosen deliberately, as the jumping of the satellite gear reminds one of a grasshopper.

On the one hand, the calibre Sauterelle by Andreas Strehler in all consequence follows the classic principles for the construction of watches and the traditions of finishing movements. On the other hand, the design and the execution of the movement are innovative: From the best technical solution grows the delicate and almost organic look of the movement.

Andreas Strehler Sauterelle rose gold watch

To apply classic construction principals means that a movement by Andreas Strehler could have been built a hundred years ago, albeit using different tools and technology. Exotic materials are missing completely from his movements. In all probability, his watches can still be repaired in a hundred years’ time by a skilled watchmaker.

Many technical inventions are aimed at the movement’s longevity: The winding mechanism employs true conical gear wheels, the specifically designed profile of whose teeth guarantee their functioning without wear, reducing abrasion to almost nil.

The characteristic organic look of the movements with their central main plate, relating in their elegance to Art Nouveau, has valid reasons: To find the technically soundest solution means more often than not to choose the direct way.

Andreas Strehler Sauterelle watch in rose gold

Andreas Strehler achieves this through very few but very large wheels. It takes a lot of technical understanding to design the space needed for these wheels. The synthesis of tradition and modernity is also made evident by the finishing of the individual components. The hand-bevelling and polishing may be very traditional, yet it reaches acute angles no other watchmaker dares to touch.

Andreas Strehler Sauterelle watch movement case back view

This craftsmanship is also reflected in the 10:1 scale model of the remontoir d’égalité: All of the technical details of the intermediary winding mechanism are executed with the same meticulous care, including the decoration and the bevelled edges, as on the wristwatch.

Andreas Strehler Sauterelle functional remontoir d'égalité

This functional model, entirely crafted by hand, invites the observer to discover the functioning of the Remontoir d’égalité with its switching operations, the movement of the stopping jewel, the re-tensioning of the hairspring and the rotation of the satellite wheel. The functional model is being manufactured upon request and is exclusively available to collectors of Andreas Strehler watches.

Technical details

Model: Andreas Strehler Sauterelle

  • Case: 18 carat rose gold
  • Calibre: Sauterelle, hand winding:156 parts, frequency: 3Hz/21’600A/h,32.0×30.0mm, height: 5.9mm,25 jewels, patented remontoir d’ ègalité, double main spring barrel, edges bevelled and polished by hand, fully decorated movement
  • Dial: Massive silver/sapphire
  • Hands: Blue steel or gold
  • Strap and buckle: Hand sewn alligator leather strap, buckle made from 18K red gold

Bell & Ross BR S Officer (Aviation Collection) – BR S Officer Ruthenium & BR S Officer Silver

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

In 2013, Bell & Ross enhanced its popular AVIATION BR S collection with two new elegant and luxurious automatic timekeepers: the BR S OFFICER Ruthénium and the Silver. Seductive and refined down to their last details, they feature a range of shades of gray.

BR S Officer Silver

In the Silver version, the hands, the numerals and the index marks blend subtly into the silvered sunburst dial.

BR S Officer Ruthenium

In the Ruthénium version, the deep gray sunburst dial perfectly matches the color of the strap to create a refined contrast with the silver of the case.

Technical details
Models: BR S Officer Ruthenium & BR S Officer Silver
Movement: SW 300 mechanical automatic
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds. Date
Case: diameter 39 mm. Thickness 9 mm
Satin-brushed steel
Dial: ruthenium or silver finish. Appliqué metal numerals and index
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire
Water-resistance: 50 meters
Strap: alligator
Buckle: pin buckle. Satin-brushed steel

HUBLOT Oceanographic 4000 Cheval Blanc Randheli Special Edition

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

Cheval Blanc Randheli, the new second Cheval Blanc Maison, is an intimate and contemporary haven for the most demanding clientele, on the unspoiled Noonu Atoll in the Maldives.

Celebrating true craftsmanship, exclusive privacy, creativity and genuine, and caring service, Hublot pays tribute to the beauty of the site, the refined and elegant Maison conceived in synergy with the island’s natural surroundings and lagoon, by unveiling a special diver’s watch, only available at Cheval Blanc Randheli.

Made of titanium, with luminescent indexes in Cheval Blanc Randheli yellow, this watch withstands the pressure exerted at the extreme depth of 4,000 m. It has taken 18 months of research, development and testing to present the Oceanographic 4000, a watch which can be worn on dives to depths of 4,000 metres, under extreme pressure – an exceptional technical achievement.

This watch is designed to meet the most demanding requirements, of both professional divers and watch enthusiasts.

Almost all the features of the Oceanographic 4000 are exceptional, in terms of design, development and manufacturing. To be described as a “montre de plongée” (diver’s watch), resistant to the pressure exerted at the record depth of 4,000 metres; the watch had to meet the exacting specifications of the international standards of Swiss Watchmaking (NIHS).

Starting with its seal, tested by Hublot in a Roxer tank, submerged and pressurised to the equivalent of 5,000 metres. To ensure the water tightness of the watch and to resist this extreme pressure, the synthetic sapphire crystal is 6.5 thick. This is thicker than normal, but is reasonable for this level of resistance. The case back is screw-down, a sine qua non for reaching such depths. It is made of grade 2 titanium, an extremely strong stainless material.

As its case is made of titanium, the Oceanographic 4000 is still light on the wrist – although its diameter of 48 mm and its volume are substantial. From the brightness standpoint, the time and elapsed time measured by the flange must be legible from a distance of 25 cm in the dark. To meet this requirement, the dial, the flange and the hands of the Oceanographic 4000 have been optimised to have a larger surface area treated with SuperLuminova™, a luminescent material emitting a yellow colour.

The reading method has been made as safe as possible, using an internal rotating flange which is unidirectional and rack-driven, with a dive time indicator. The dive time indicator being placed as close as possible to the dial minimises the risk of inadvertently altering the dive time. It also makes the dive time easier to read.

In accordance with the standard, the Oceanographic 4000 has a minute scale on which the five-minute periods are clearly highlighted.

The watch is fitted with two screw-down crowns (a protective measure that helps ensure water resistance by compression of an O-ring seal).The flange crown which sets the dive time is placed at the 2 o’clock position for easy access and more comfortable use. It is unidirectional, again for safety reasons, with a bayonet fitting and protected by an oversized crown guard, for extra safety and easy operation when handling diving equipment. The second crown, for winding and setting the time and date, is positioned at 4 o’clock to avoid obstruction.

Finally, the Oceanographic 4000 has a helium valve, a feature essential to any diving watch capable of descending to great depths. An essential feature when the watch is used in diving chambers, the helium valve allows gases that have infiltrated the watch during the descent to safely escape during the ascent. The valve fitted to the Oceanographic 4000 is made of stainless steel, positioned at 10 o’clock, visible from the left-hand side lug.

The watch comes with a white rubber strap with a buckle straps. This type of fastening is more secure than a folding clasp for this type of use, and is also easier to handle and close when using gloves. Note that the design of this buckle is original (because the use of a tongue is rare in the normal Hublot collections) and that its method of attachment to the case is even more so with two small push buttons built into each end of the case to allow the strap to be changed instantly without the use of a screwdriver or any other accessory.

The Oceanographic 4000 Cheval Blanc Randheli Limited Edition is a genuine instrument with technology developed to the extreme and ergonomics for efficiency.

Technical details
Model: Oceanographic 4000 Cheval Blanc Randheli Limited Edition
Reference: 731.NE.2179.NR.CBR13
Limited series of only 20 pieces numbered

Case
“King Power” – 48 mm diameter, made of microblasted satin-finished titanium
Bezel: Microblasted satin-finished titanium, 6 black PVD H-shaped titanium screws
Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective treatment
Lug bezel: White composite resin
Lateral inserts: White composite resin
Case back: Microblasted satin-finished titanium; With Cheval Blanc Randheli signature engraved.
Crown: Titanium with white rubber insert
Water resistance: Certified to 400 ATM or 4,000 metres, Tested to 5,000 metres according to the NIHS standards

Dial
Matt white
Satin-finished appliques with bright yellow SuperLuminova™
Hands: Microblasted satin-finished with bright yellow SuperLuminova™

Movement
Mechanical with automatic winding HUB1401
No. of components: 180 (23 jewels)
Bridges: Satin-finished, bevelled & polished
Barrel: With reinforced spring
Escapement: Glucydur hairspring
Power Reserve: Approximately 42 hours

Strap
White rubber
Closing system Buckle in titanium

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950 Diamond-set Mother of Pearl

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

This Tonda 1950 timepiece boasts an exquisitely precious and delicate Tahitian mother of pearl dial (Also available with white mother of pearl) inside the extra-flat stone-set case. These stone-set timepieces in rose or white gold will appeal to discerning women with a keen eye for detail. The Tonda 1950 stone-set model features no fewer than 84 brilliant cut diamonds, perfectly integrated in the bezel. Equipped with an extra-flat automatic movement with 29 jewels, housed inside a 39-millimetre case, the Manufacture model is a marvel of scaled-down elegance.  Its iconic tear-drop horns and sleek, feminine profile are guaranteed to turn heads.

However, its most striking feature is its dial, which is made from a fine layer of mother of pearl. Unlike the reflective properties of more common materials, mother of pearl is characterised by its iridescent sheen and its ability to breathe life into any surface it adorns. Synonymous with prestige, this noble material is obtained from the most beautiful pearls carefully selected by the manufacture.

The dial is available in two very different shades: Tahitian grey mother of pearl or white mother of pearl. The dial of the Tonda 1950 stone-set mother of pearl perfectly matches the rose or white gold of the watch’s case. Its delicacy is further underlined by its restrained delta hands and the applique indexes which reflect the silvery tones of the dial and ensure excellent readability.

This comfortable, feminine line is available with a choice of four elegant Hermès straps, depending on the colour of the mother of pearl and the case. For the white gold version, the purity of the mother of pearl is beautifully complemented by a sultry ember-red Hermès strap, while the Tahitian grey mother of pearl provides a stunning contrast with the chic white calfskin strap. The stone-set rose gold version boasts a fresh look, twinning an elephant-grey strap with the Tahitian mother of pearl, while the white mother of pearl version is matched with a Hermès crocodile strap in “ficelle”, a stylish beige which is a signature of the Brand.

With an autonomy of 42 hours, the PF 701 automatic movement is driven by a micro-oscillating weight in intricately decorated platinum. With 145 components, this movement features some of the finest Haute Horlogerie finishes, masterfully accomplished by Parmigiani Fleurier thanks to its independent, verticalised watchmaking centre. The exquisite Côtes de Genève is instantly recognisable on the back of the movement, where the bridges are decorated and bevelled in line with the purest horological traditions. Parmigiani Fleurier brings together technical skill and artistry in a timepiece which is both classic and contemporary.

Technical details
Tonda 1950 Diamond-set Mother-of-pearl Dial

Movement
PF 701
Self-winding. 42-hour power reserve
Calibre 13 ¼’’’– Ø 30 mm, thickness 2.6 mm
Frequency: 3 Hz – 21,600 Vib/h
29 jewels, 1 barrel
Number of components: 145
“Côtes de Genève” decoration
Oscillating micro-weight made from 950 platinum

Functions
Hour
Minute
Small seconds at 6 o’clock

Case
3-part round case: Ø 39 mm
Thickness: 7.80 mm
Material: 18 ct rose gold or white gold. Polished finish
Bezel set with 84 «Brilliant» cut diamonds, Ø 1.20 mm (Top Wesselton, VVS, ~ 0.65 ct)
Water resistance: 30 m
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Crowns: Ø 5 mm
Case-back with sapphire crystal
Individual number engraved on the case-back

Dials
Extra-white mother-of-pearl and Tahiti mother-of-pearl dials
Diamond-polished appliqués
Delta-shaped hands with luminescent coating

Straps
Hermès strap with 18 ct rose or white gold ardillon buckle, polished finish
Strap versions according to the color of watch dial and case:
Extra-white mother-of-pearl dial
– Hermès alligator strap “Rouge Braise” (White gold case)
– Hermès alligator strap “Ficelle” (Rose gold case)
Tahiti mother-of-pearl dial
– Hermès white calf leather strap (White gold case)
– Hermès alligator strap “Gris Elephant” (Rose gold case)

GRAHAM Chronofighter 1695 Lady Moon

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

GRAHAM Chronofighter Lady collection combines pure astronomy and graceful watchmaking. With a luminous moon phase and high-precision quartz movement, this timepiece is an ode to femininity and refinement with the charming GRAHAM touch.

 GRAHAM Chronofighter 1695 Lady Moon

Naturally, the brand combined its passion for accurate astronomy and watch making with the fascinating world of femininity. Women will look their best with the hypnotic power of the Chronofighter 1695 Lady Moon, which is dress in a pure 36 mm steel case.

GRAHAM Chronofighter 1695 Lady Moon

The Chronofighter 1695 with the renowned start/stop lever adorned with a diamond (Ø1.20) to perfectly highlight the spirit of the sweet originality of the watch. The flinqué decorated dial features four diamonds (Ø 1.30) set at quarter-hours.

GRAHAM Chronofighter 1695 Lady Moon

The level of details is also increased on the case back, engraved with a floral motif inspired by the tapestry from British hand-craftsman William Morris (19thc.).  The Chronofighter 1695 Lady Moon is fitted with a glossy coloured lizard leather strap.

GRAHAM Chronofighter 1695 Lady Moon watch case back

Main features also include: 36 mm steel case, calibre G1650, quartz chronograph, 3 jewels, 4-1/2 year mercury-free battery with end-of-life indication, Moon phase with lunation disc at 12 o’clock, coated with white Super-LumiNova, Rattrapante, date at 6 o’clock, left fast-action start/stop trigger set with a diamond (Top Wesselton, 0.01 carat, VS, Ø1.20), flinqué dial (sunray pattern) with 4 quarter hours set with diamond (Top Wesselton, 0.04 carats, VS, Ø1.30), domed sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating on both faces, domed steel case back with an engraved floral pattern, glossy lizard leather strap. Diamond-set bezel available.

GRAHAM Chronofighter 1695 Lady Moon

Technical details

Model: Chronofighter 1695 Lady Moon

Functions
Quartz chronograph (seconds, minutes)
Moon phase
Rattrapante
Date at 6 o’clock
Hours, minutes, seconds

Movement
Calibre G1650, quartz chronograph, metal gold plating
3 jewels
Power reserve: 4-1/2 year mercury free battery. EOL (end-of-life indication)

Case
36 mm stainless steel case
Left hand fast-action start/stop trigger set with a diamond in its end (Top Wesselton,
0.01 carat, VS, Ø 1.20) and reset pusher
Stainless steel bezel
Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both faces
Domed stainless steel case back with floral pattern engraved
Water resistance: 160 feet / 50 m / 5 bar

Dial and strap

Ref. 2CXBS.S06A
White flinqué decorated dial, smooth minutes and seconds counters. 4 quarterhours set with diamond (Top Wesselton, 0.04 carats, VS, Ø 1.30)
Rhodiated hands coated with white Super-LumiNova
Moon phase with lunation disc at 12 o’clock, coated with white Super-LumiNova
Strap: Glossy white lizard leather
Price: 3’600 CHF

Ref. 2CXBS.B04A
Black flinqué decorated dial, smooth minutes and seconds counters. 4 quarterhours set with diamond (Top Wesselton, 0.04 carats, VS, Ø 1.30)
Rhodiated hands coated with white Super-LumiNova
Moon phase with lunation disc at 12 o’clock, coated with white Super-LumiNova
Strap: Glossy black lizard leather
Price: 3’600 CHF

Ref. 2CXBS.A02A
Grey flinqué decorated dial, smooth minutes and seconds counters. 4 quarter-hours set with diamond (Top Wesselton, 0.04 carats, VS, Ø 1.30)
Rhodiated hands coated with white Super-LumiNova
Moon phase with lunation disc at 12 o’clock, coated with white Super-LumiNova
Strap: Glossy grey lizard leather
Price: 3’600 CHF

Diamond Set Versions

36 mm stainless steel case
Left hand fast-action start/stop trigger set with a diamond in its end (Top Wesselton, 0.01 carat, VS, Ø 1.20) and reset pusher
Stainless steel bezel with 72 diamonds (Top Wesselton, 0.65 carats, VS, Ø 1.30)
Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both faces
Domed steel case back with floral pattern engraved
Water resistance: 160 feet / 50 m / 5 bar

Ref. 2CXCS.S06A
White flinqué decorated dial, smooth minutes and seconds counters
4 quarter-hours set with diamond (Top Wesselton, 0.04 carats, VS, Ø 1.30)
Rhodiated hands coated with white Super-LumiNova
Moon phase with lunation disc at 12 o’clock, coated with white Super-LumiNova
Strap: Glossy white lizard leather
Price: 6’950 CHF

Ref. 2CXCS.B04A
Black flinqué decorated dial, smooth minutes and seconds counters. 4 quarterhours set with diamond (Top Wesselton, 0.04 carats, VS, Ø 1.30)
Rhodiated hands coated with white Super-LumiNova
Moon phase with lunation disc at 12 o’clock, coated with white Super-LumiNova
Strap: Glossy black lizard leather
Price: 6’950 CHF

Ref. 2CXCS.A02A
Grey flinqué decorated dial, smooth minutes and seconds counters. 4 quarter-hours set with diamond (Top Wesselton, 0.04 carats, VS, Ø 1.30)
Rhodiated hands coated with white Super-LumiNova
Moon phase with lunation disc at 12 o’clock, coated with white Super-LumiNova
Strap: Glossy grey lizard leather
Price: 6’950 CHF

[GRAHAM Chronofighter 1695 Lady Moon is also available in blue and red dial versions]

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Quaestor Labyrinthe

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

Under its subtle shades of jade green, the Toric Quaestor Labyrinthe contains a minute repeater which uses several special design features to produce an exceptionally pure melody.

Firstly, the movement is integrated into the case with greater stability thanks to an additional fixing point. Located just below the chime, a small piece links the pawl of the chime to the case, thereby ensuring that it is perfectly fixed and allowing the sound to reverberate without any interference from the vibrations.

Secondly, this movement has a flywheel, which is a major innovation. Apart from ensuring a constant supply of energy to the spring, this device allows the minute repeater to operate without any mechanical humming. While previous devices functioned with the jerks of a toothed wheel, the flywheel ensures total mechanical silence, leaving only the sound of the melodious chime each time it is struck. Finally, the generously- sized platinum case is specially designed to provide perfect acoustics which allow the sound waves to oscillate at the best frequencies.

The dial on this piece consists of two layers which make up the labyrinth. The bottom layer is a disc of extremely precious Burmese jade, onto which an open-worked white gold plate is superimposed to form the branching passages of the labyrinth. This plate is first machined using CNC machines, before undergoing a finishing process, which itself represents more than 35 hours of work. Each segment length or contour in the labyrinth is bevelled by hand. Fifty-two internal angles further emphasise the depth and beauty of the maze.

Technical details
Model: Toric Quaestor

Movement
PF 357
Hand-wound
72-hour power reserve
Calibre 13’’’– Ø 29.30 mm
Frequency: 3 Hz – 21,600 Vib/h
35 jewels, minute repeater on 2 “cathedral” gongs with chime rhythm regulator flywheel, device for disconnecting time-setting while the chime is operating
Rhodium-plated bridges with Côtes de Genève, hand-polished bevelling and backing, steel parts circular-grained lengthwise

Functions
Hour
Minute
Small seconds
Minute repeater
Power reserve

Case
Round case: Ø 46.00 mm
Thickness: 13.20 mm
Material: 950 platinum. Polished finish
Double knurled bezel
Water resistance: 10 m
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Crown: Ø 7.00 mm, sapphire cabochon
Case-back with sapphire crystal
Individual number engraved on the case-back

Dial
Material: Burma jade and 18 ct gold
Javelin-shaped hands with Superluminova

Strap
Leather Hermès alligator strap with knurled 18 ct gold ardillon buckle, polished finish

Pequignet Calibre Royal® Collection 2013

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

The Calibre Royal® Collection from French Haute Horlogerie manufacture Pequignet features exceptional timepieces equipped with the Calibre Royal®, an in house developed movement. In the Calibre Royal® 2013 edition, Pequignet Manufacture revisits its famous Calibre Royal® movement, in a simplified version.

Rue Royale Collection
Rue Royale, the iconic range from Maison Pequignet,is being extended with the arrival of 4 new models, all equipped with the simplified version of the Calibre Royal. Available in Black or silvered dial, with or without large date. These new models boasts basic timekeeping functions hours, minutes, small seconds. The power reserve indicator is positioned at 8’o clock.

Technical details
42 mm case, 316lsteel
Finish polished steel
Black or silvered opaline dial with steel hands
Water resistance 50 meters
Large-scaled alligator strap
Double folding clasp buckle
Large dual date and day window with 3 discs on the same level, instantaneous 3-disc system, at midnight (with a tolerance of plus or minus 10 minutes)

ROYAL GRAND Sport Collection
The Royal Grand Sport, which is the latest addition to the calibre royal® collections, is also available in 2 new models equipped with the simplified version of the famous movement.This timepiece, in additon to HMS indications, also boasts a large dual date and day window at 12’0 clock.

Technical details
44 mm case, 316lsteel
Finish polished steel
Black or silvered opaline dial with steel hands
Water resistance 50 meters
Large-scaled alligator strap
Double folding clasp buckle
Large dual date and day window with 3 discs on the same level, instantaneous 3-disc system, at midnight (with a tolerance of plus or minus 10 minutes)

Royal® Calibre
Royal® Calibre features multiple integrated complications: a world first. 88-hour power reserve on a single large barrel – Double large day and date window with 3 discs date and day with instantaneous jump – Large moon phase accurate to 122 years – 21,600 vibrations/hour – Large balance with compensating screws – Dual direction automatic winding system – Direct barrel winding. Designed and produced entirely in the company’s own Haute Horlogerie laboratories and workshops, this exceptional calibre is unique worldwide.

Its unique technique now combines accuracy, reliability and elegance in the same timepiece with multiple complications. With 9 worldwide patents, the Calibre Royal® is exclusive to the Pequignet Manufacture, and re-establishes a link to the historic, unrivalled expertise of French Haute Horlogerie.

Glycine New Combat Chrono (Ref. 3924.106AT.LB96B & Ref. 3924.15AT.LB7BH)

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

Introduced in 2013 by the long-established Swiss watch-making company Glycine, the new Combat Chronograph (Ref. 3924) immediately draws your attentions with its tastefully orchestrated interplay of colours and the meticulous design of the stylish dial. A high quality leather strap which is extremely comfortable to wear and matching Glycine clasp lend a harmonious finishing touch.

This distinctive timepiece is enclosed in a sporty modern case made of fine stainless steel with a diameter of 43 mm, successfully rounded off with a striking crown and two easy-to-operate chronograph pushers.

Glycine new Combat Chronograph Ref. 3924.15AT.LB7BH

Glycine has produced this prestigious timepiece with two impressive dial versions: one in an attractive chestnut shade which goes particularly well with the distinguished red-gold numerals and the other somewhat more classic white version which is no less chic, also in combination with red-gold numerals. The distinctive and crowning finish on the dial is the very elegant Glycine crown-logo at the 3 o’clock position.

Glycine new Combat Chronograph Ref. 3924.106AT.LB96B

The movement used is the automatic chronograph calibre GL N 750 with an elegant second hand at the 9 o’clock position, minute hand at the 12 o’clock position and hour hand at the 6 o’clock position. This fine timepiece has a recommended guide price of 2400 Swiss francs.

COMBAT CHRONO, 3924
• Case in stainless steel, 43 mm diameter
• Sapphire crystal
• Water resistant 10 atm
• Recommended public price CHF 2400.-

Memorigin Puro Lady’s Series

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

In 2013, to satisfy the demand for complication watches for ladies, the Hong Kong tourbillon watch brand – Memorigin specially presented a tourbillon watch for women. The watch designer deliberately selected 76 pieces of VVS1 GH diamonds, with total weight of 1.3 Carat, to embed in regular way for the decoration on the watch case. With the featuring of the skeletal design on the dial, the stream of light passes through the skeletal structure inside the movement.

As the size of ladies’ watch is small, the assembling procedure is more complex than making a men’s watch. In order to provide a highly stable timepiece, Memorigin aim to launch the tourbillon movement in a frequency of 28,800 oscillations per hour. The off-center tourbillon gives an intense momentum from the appearance.

On the craftsmanship and sense of art basis, it fulfills all the requirements of ladies. Apart from the ladies collection, Memorigin also provides a similar collection for men. Two watches can be paired up as the Lover Series.

Technical details
Model: Puro Auspicious Series (Lady)
Model No.: ST0612

  • Diameter: 35 mm
  • Diamond Quantity: about 76 pcs
  • Diamond Weight: about 1.3 Carat
  • 158 pieces of subassembly module and 23 jewels
  • Frequency: 28,800 Oscillation/Hour
  • The tourbillon located at 6 o’clock rotate at a speed of 60s for one circle.
  • 60 hours power reserve.
  • Off-centered Tourbillon
  • Skeletal-design dial
  • Alligator Strap
  • Both sides sapphire crystal
  • Retail Price: HKD $64,000

Cyrus Klepcys Conquest (18K Red Gold, Diamond Set, “Pièce Unique”)

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

Developed in collaboration with Jean-François Mojon, the Cyrus KLEPCYS is a very exclusive timepiece with patented and very innovative functions.

This timepiece has 3 dimensional functions that have never been developed before, in addition to a shape that perfectly suits to the wrist. It is equipped with a manufacture automatic movement and offers a unique display of the time on a movable axis, with a retrograde hour function, day/night indication, large date calendar with retrograde rotating three-dimensional tens, and spherical moon with moon phase indication by gradual rise of a patch.

In 2013, Cyrus launched a diamond set version: the KLEPCYS CONQUEST.

Cyrus Klepcys Conquest watch

Set with 84 baguette diamonds (5.78 carats), invisible setting, DEF colour, IF quality, the KLEPCYS CONQUEST watch required almost 20 carats of diamonds before cut.  The 84 baguette diamonds come all from the same stone. All the diamonds also share the same story, which makes this timepiece even more exceptional and unique.

Technical details

Model: Cyrus Klepcys Conquest, Reference CYR539.901.B

Movement
CYR598 automatic, 4Hz, 28,800vph
Power reserve: 40 hours
Number of components: 390
Number of rubies: 40
Lift angle: 52°

Case
18K red gold
Diameter: 48mm (including crowns)
Worldwide registered design, perfectly suiting to the wrist
18K red gold CYRUS screws on the bezel
175 grams of gold
Waterproof: 30 metres

Time Function
Three-dimensional retrograde display mechanism
Reading of hours, minutes and seconds on a movable axis with a day/night indication
Precise guidance of the retrograde height of the hour hand with a ruby bearing
Worldwide Patent

Calendar
Large date, retrograde three-dimensional tens, pivoting
From 31 to 1: tens pivoting on themselves without retrograde!
Precise guidance of the height of the tens hand with a ruby bearing

Phases of the moon
Three-dimensional moon (6mm diameter)
Progressive rising of the patch to indicate the various moon phases
Indication accuracy: error of one day every one hundred and twenty-five years

Oscillating mass
Customised décor on the mass
Ceramic ball bearings without lubrication

Crowns
Crown position at 9 o’clock: time setting in the 2 directions
Crown position at 3 o’clock: date setting (press)
Full winding: 30 turns of the winding stem

Caseback
18K red gold CYRUS antique coin (medallion) :Identical copy of the original, over 2,500-year-old coin, produced under the reign of CYRUS.
The original coin (representing a lion and a bull) is the property of the  CYRUS brand
Text directed to the owner of KLEPCYS: “Share the values of CYRUS THE GREAT, the powerful conqueror, considered as the precursor of human rights. His spirit of conquest is still living in this timepiece. Be part of it.”

Other details
Inertial balance for greater adjustment stability
Springs sized using FEM (Finite Element Method)
Sprockets with optimised teeth (reduced play)
Maximum use of stainless steel for better corrosion resistance
CYRUS-specific hardware

Bracelet
Crocodile, sewn by hand, brown, tone on tone stitching
Clasp: 18K red gold folding clasp ; Design inspired by the shape of the case

Presentation case
Designed by CYRUS design workshops
Contents: moon phase regulator, spare black crocodile strap, warranty card

Cyrus Klepcys Moon Blue W Motors 2013 Limited Edition

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

Produced in a limited edition of 7 numbered pieces, the Klepcys Moon Blue version joined the Cyrus Klepcys collection in 2013. This special edition was born out of the partnership between Cyrus watches and W Motors, the manufacture of ultra luxurious supercars.

W Motors is a sports car company based in Dubai. Co-founded by Lebanese automotive designer Ralph R. Debbas in partnership with a number of European investors, W Motors is the first developer of high-performance luxury sports cars in the Middle East.

Unveiled to the public at the Qatar Motor Show in February 2013, Lykan Hypersport is the first hyper car manufactured by W Motors. Costing a whopping 3.4 millions USD each, this hyper car will be produced in a limited edition of 7 only. Each Lykan Hypersport will be delivered together with a customized CYRUS KLEPCYS timepiece with blue moon.

W MOTORS Lykan Hypersport
W MOTORS Lykan Hypersport

This timepiece features a black DLC-coated titanium case that has a diameter of 48mm (including the crowns). It is adorned with a bezel in brushed black DLC-coated titanium. The slanting lugs and lug flanks in polished 18K white gold ensure comfortable wear. The visible screws in blue remind one of the three-part Cyrus brand logo. The retrograde hand moves along the 180° axis and changes colour (while rotating across the 180 degrees) depending on the time of day (day or night).

Cyrus Klepcys Moon Blue W Motors 2013 Limited Edition

Regardless of the hand’s position, minutes and seconds discs are always aligned and accurate during the linear reading of time. This patented alignment is based on a one-of-a-kind mechanism which controls the speed of the (retrograde and rotating) hours, minutes, and seconds wheels.

As far as the date display is concerned the units digits (from 0 to 9) rest one on top of the other, while the tens digits change before the units digits. Once the tens digit reaches the figure 9, the figure moves in retrograde manner and rotates by 90 degrees. It simultaneously makes the away for the space for the next tens digit which is placed before the units digit 0.

Finally, the tribute to the famous Tower of Babel, “which towered to the heavens”, takes the form of a full moon with realistic crater images which links the watch to the sky. The lunar phases are represented by a black patch which gradually covers the full moon. When the moon is fully covered, the three section Cyrus brand logo becomes visible. Time eventually conquers the waning moon.

Cyrus Klepcys Moon Blue W Motors 2013 Limited Edition

Jean-François Mojon’s finger print in 5N gold is placed the centre of case back. The caseback also features Cyrus Logo, model and limited edition number, “PROUDLY MADE FOR DEMANDING PEOPLE” and “BABYLON A CITY -STATE WITH A UNIQUE ARCHITECTURE AND GATHERING ALL THE TECHNICAL AND INTELLECTUAL KNOW HOW OF ITS TIME”.

The blue Cyrus screws and hand stitched alligator leather strap blue stitches add further elegance to this timepiece.

Technical details

Model: Klepcys Moon Blue W Motors 2013
Reference 539.004.C
Limited series: 7 watches
Materials: 18K white gold & Black DLC-coated titanium

Movement
Selfwinding CYR598, 4 Hz, 28,800 v/h
Winding rotor Personalised decoration
Oil-free ceramic ball bearings
Power reserve > 40 h
Jewels: 37

Functions
Time indications
Three-dimensional retrograde indications
Hours, minutes and seconds displayed on a mobile axis with day/night indication
Height of the retrograde hours hand precisely governed with ruby bearings
Patent pending

Dates
Large dates, tens on three-dimensional pivoting components
Height of the retrograde hours hand precisely governed with ruby bearings.
Patent pending

Moon phases
Spherical blue moon
Mobile cover represents the moon phases
CYRUS logo appears when the moon is completely hidden

Case
Bezel in brushed black DLC-coated titanium
Case in polished black DLC-coated titanium
Lugs in brushed 18K white gold
Lug flanks in polished 18K white gold
Diameter: 48mm including crowns
Sapphire crystal Anti-reflection treatment
Caseback: Jean-François Mojon’s finger print in 5N gold
Finishes CYRUS screw fittings (blue)

Crowns
18K white gold
Crown at 3 o’clock to set the date – with Cyrus logo on the outside
Crown at 9 o’clock to set the time “keep the secret” – with Cyrus logo on the outside – a lateral movement reveals the limited series number

Dial
Dial Black dial
“Trilogy” design by the CYRUS design studio

Strap
Strap Crocodile, hand stitched, blue stitches
Replacement strap Crocodile, hand stitched, blue stitches
Clasp Folding clasp in brushed titanium
Design inspired by the shape of the case
CYRUS logo on the cover

W Motors and Cyrus

When the W Motors (W for Wolf) was launched on the HYPER CAR market in 2013 and was looking for a partnership with a watchmaker, CYRUS was the immediate choice.

W Motors brings together the finest engineers (Magna Steyr Torn) the most experienced designers (Studio Torino) and combine their skills in one of the most ambitious even crazy projects in the eyes of some observers.

The first W Motors Hypersport is Lykan, referring to the werewolf, this half human, half wolf animal with exceptional strength. A close inspection of the Hypersport reveals that the two ends of the bonnet extend along the sides of the windshield, like the two ears of a wolf, a unique feature in the automotive field.

Seen from the front the Hypersport resembles a wild wolf ready to transform itself into a werewolf, powerful and elegant, once the engine starts. Given that the werewolf only reveals itself at full moon, W Motors chose to associate itself with the CYRUS watch brand whose KLEPCYS collection was one of the first in the world to place a three dimensional moon on its dial.

W Motors has been for some time seeking out the ideal partner whose product would be linked in its totality with the history and the concept of this brand. Because CYRUS was created with reference to CYRUS the GREAT, conquest typifies this brand, a conquering spirit that is felt with one single even furtive look at the Hypersport.

This is an interesting element for it suggests that independent brands have the capacity to coexist each reinforcing its legitimacy while sharing a common vision. This is synergy at its best, each independent brand having its own network of customers and journalists allowing the partner brand to benefit from the relationship. It is the right mix of skills.

As is the case with handmade watches, Lykan Hyper cars, 7 of which were produced for the first model, have handmade bodies, made in Italy from layered carbon fibre. The heart of the werewolf works off German technology (highly recognized worldwide for its technical ability) with an engine which is completely handmade, assembled piece by piece in Germany.

W Motors is offering stunning performances on its Hypersport model. With a twin turbo flat six-cylinder engine producing 750 HP, the werewolf goes from 0 to 100 km/hour in less than 2.8 seconds and can reach a maximum speed of 385 km/hour and 980 nm of torque which makes this animal one of the fastest and most powerful in the world.

This vehicle is of course entirely customizable. The customer can choose from a variety of precious stones to be added both to the interior and the exterior of the car: diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds. The finest materials such as gold or platinum are recommended for use in the interior of the vehicles, especially on the control buttons in order to heighten its luxurious and lavish aspect. A concierge service linked to the car is available to the customers 24 hours a day.

The Lykan Hypersport is the most technologically advanced Hypercar in its class. It is the first car in the world with a fully functional holographic display with interactive movement. A 9-inch screen is projected in the interior, allowing drivers and passengers constant interaction and complete control of the multimedia interface of the car.

Interactive functions allow you to select functions by moving your hand in the air, using your finger as a pointer. A passive projection screen thus becomes a large interactive touch screen whose potential uses are wide ranging. The user can interact directly with the hologram by touching it.

JEANRICHARD Nocturnal Adventurers Collection: 1681 with black DLC case, Terrascope with black DLC case & Terrascope bi-colour with black dial

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

Swiss luxury watchmaker JEANRICHARD introduces three new versions of its 1681 and Terrascope models to complement any night-time expeditions with style and assurance. Dedicated to adventurers, the three companions for urban, sporting or elegant nights are the perfect examples of the JEANRICHARD “philosophy of life”.

1681 with black DLC case
A homage to the very first watch created by Daniel Jeanrichard at the end of the 17th century, the 1681 reinvents tradition in a new, highly original colour of the night. A dynamic, refined and urban look for night time walks in well-lit streets or for discovering the more secret corners of a city after-hours, it is the perfect companion to those urban characters fuelled by the electric energy of cities and their alluring facets.

The steel cushion case is decorated with a black DLC coating with a matt, powder-coat surface. It’s entirely micro beaded finish adds strength to the modern but discreet style. Only essential references, the leaf-shaped hour and minute hands and the date, stand out against the black dial, thanks to a luminescent beige coating.

Within this case of hitherto unseen elegance beats a JR1000, automatic winding movement, made in-house, with a black rotor which has an exclusive décor visible through the transparent case-back.

1681 – Ref: 60320-11-652-HB6A
Sandblasted black DLC-coated stainless steel case
Diameter: 44.00 mm, Height: 11.27 mm
Antireflective sapphire crystal
Sapphire case-back, screwed-down
Water-resistant to 100 m
Manufactured JR1000 movement, self-winding, black rotor
Calibre: 11 ½’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/ hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 27
Power- reserve: minimum 48 hours
Functions: hour, minute, second, date
Black matt dial
Black polished indexes and numerals
Black polished hands with beige luminescent material
Black Barenia® calfskin strap
Black PVD-coated stainless steel folding buckle

Terrascope with black DLC case
A starry night in the immensity of the desert, a moonless evening on the world’s highways, the thrill of the unknown and the unexplored, the Terrascope –JEANRICHARD’s flagship model – shares the most beautiful night-time hours for everyday explorers who wish to savour every moment of the day in a new edition finished with a sleek black DLC coating.

The alternating “vertical satin” finish on the flat surfaces and sandblasted finish on the bevels subtly underline the watche’s original design, with its robust construction in several parts and its combination of a cushion case with a round glass. The indexes and hands are clearly distinguishable on a matt black dial, with cut-outs that make them stand out and a white luminescent coating.

The sporty touch is completed by a black rubber strap with a folding clasp. The mechanical movement with automatic winding ensures accuracy and reliability twenty-four hours a day.

Terrascope black DLC case – Ref: 60500-11609-FK6A
Sandblasted and vertically satin-finished black – DLC-coated stainless steel case
Diameter: 44.00 mm; Height: 12.60 mm
Antireflective sapphire crystal
Black case-back screw-down, engraved
Water-resistant to 100 m
Movement JR60, self-winding
Calibre: 11 ½’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 26
Power reserve: minimum 38 hours
Functions: hour, minute, second, date
Black matt dial
Luminescent sandblasted indexes
Rhodium-coated sandblasted hands with luminescent material
Black rubber strap
Black PVD-coated stainless steel folding buckle

Terrascope bi-colour with black dial
With a steel case illuminated by case sides in pink gold and a black dial, the new Terrascope bi-colour re-interprets the night in a sportive yet elegant spirit. A perfect blend of class and laid-back attitude as well as luxury and authenticity, this model unveils a subtle touch of the “gentleman farmer”. The sophisticated construction of the case in multiple parts alternates “vertical satin” surfaces with polished bevels to play with light.

The matt black case-back makes the clean geometry of the dial stand out with its applied numerals and big hands covered with pink gold and a luminescent coating.

The black alligator strap, with folding clasp, completes the harmony. The mechanical movement with automatic winding ensures that the night-time and day-time hours are told with unerring accuracy.

Terrascope bi-colour – Ref: 60500-56-602-BB60
Polished and vertically satin-finished stainless steel and pink gold case
Diameter: 44 mm; Height: 12.60 mm
Antireflective sapphire crystal
Case-back screw-down, engraved
Water-resistant to 100 m
Movement JR60, self-winding
Calibre: 11 ½’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/ hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 26
Power reserve: minimum 38 hours
Functions: hour, minute, second, date
Black matt dial
Applied pink gold-plated indexes
Pink gold-plated hands with luminescent material
Black alligator strap
Stainless steel folding buckle