Andersen Genève Tempus Terrae Worldtime New Gem-set Versions

ANDERSEN Genève has announced the launch of two magnificent, gem-set versions of its iconic Tempus Terrae, among the most elegant and distinctive examples of the Worldtime complication ever made.

ANDERSEN Genève founder Svend Andersen developed his expertise in worldtime watches while working in the Grand Complications Workshop of Patek Philippe in the 1970s. In 1990, a decade after founding his eponymous atelier, he produced his debut Worldtimer, the Communication 24 – a stunning watch inspired by Louis Cottier, inventor of the complication in the 1930s.

Since then, ANDERSEN Genève’s numerous worldtime models have been celebrated by collectors worldwide for their elegance, ingenuity and finesse. Most recently, a limited edition of 10 ‘Celestial Voyager Sunset over Cappadocia’ watches made in collaboration with Benjamin Chee Haute Horlogerie (BCHH), featured bespoke cloisonné enamel dials, each of which was unique.

ANDERSEN Genève Tempus Terrae Aquamarine Baguettes Bezel, white gold case and dial made of 21ct Blue Gold Tapisserie guilloché motif
ANDERSEN Genève Tempus Terrae Aquamarine Baguettes Bezel, white gold case and dial made of 21ct Blue Gold Tapisserie guilloché motif

For 2022, ANDERSEN Genève presents two new editions of the acclaimed Tempus Terrae Worldtime, first introduced in 2015 and featuring the brand’s in-house Worldtime module. As always, technical perfection is paired with matchless decorative craftsmanship.

Both watches feature bezels decorated with exquisite and flawless blue baguette gemstones, one with Aquamarine baguettes and one with blue Sapphire. For each watch, there are 36 perfectly cut stones weighing a total of 2.25ct, set into the graceful Tempus Terrae case in white gold. Notable for its angular ‘broken’ lugs and dual crowns (a tribute to Cottier), the case is sumptuously polished and finished by hand.

ANDERSEN Genève Tempus Terrae Sapphire Baguettes Bezel, white gold case and dial made of 21ct Blue Gold Tapisserie guilloché motif

The sparkling blue of the gem-setting matches that of the central dial of BlueGold, itself an ANDERSEN Genève calling card, hand-engraved with an undulating Tapisserie guilloché motif. To achieve 21ct BlueGold, 24ct gold mixed with iron elements is heated in an oven, turning it a radiant shade of blue. In this completely artisanal process, no two dials emerge from the oven with quite the same tonality, making every dial unique. The pairing of the textured BlueGold dial and a bezel of shimmering blue gems is nothing less than captivating.

Andersen Genève Tempus Terrae Worldtime

The hunter case back discloses the movement and the rotor made of 21ct BlueGold Tapisserie guilloché motive. Every component of the movement has been textured, decorated and polished using traditional handcraft techniques. From the hand-chamfering and mirror-polishing of the ratchet and crown wheels to the delicate snailing of the winding mechanism and the flawless gleam of the tiniest wheels, each of which are individually tumbled, it is a movement to delight connoisseurs and collectors with its incredible artistry and attention to detail.

The new Tempus Terrae Baguettes from ANDERSEN Genève, with either Aquamarine or Sapphire gems, is available on order only.

Patek Philippe World Time Platinum Ref. 5230P-001

For the first time, the Patek Philippe Ref. 5230P-001 World Time combines a platinum case with a blue dial and matching strap. Its dial shows a new manually guilloched circular pattern inspired by the Ref. 5110 (2000), the first watch fitted with the patented World Time mechanism.

Patek Philippe World Time Platinum Ref. 5230P-001

The Patek Philippe Ref. 5230 World Time watch was introduced in 2016. It houses the self-winding Caliber 240 HU with a power reserve of 48 hours.

Patek Philippe World Time Platinum Ref. 5230P-001

Water-resistant to 30 meters, this platinum watch with a 38.5 mm diameter case is fitted on a navy blue calfskin strap.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5230P-001

Movement
Caliber 240 HU
Self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter: 27.5 mm
Height: 3.88 mm
Number of parts: 239
Bridges: 8
Jewels: 33
Power reserve: Min. 48 hours
22K gold off-center mini-rotor
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Patents: CH 595 653 and CH 693 191

Functions
World Time
24-hour and day/night indication for all 24 time zones

Dial
Blue, hand-guilloched with circular pattern, gold applied hour markers

Case
Platinum case
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30 m
Case diameter: 38.5 mm
Height: 10.23 mm

Strap
Calfskin, hand-stitched, navy blue
Fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts World Time Ref. 5231G-001

Patek Philippe has released a new Rare Handcrafts version of the coveted World Time watch.

In the center of its dial, the new Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts World Time watch in white gold (reference 5231G-001) sports a new map in grand feu cloisonné enamel depicting Oceania and Southeast Asia.

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts World Time Ref. 5231G-001

The 38.5 mm diameter white gold case is water resistant to 30m. Inside beats the self-winding 240 HU mechanical movement. Fitted with a 22K gold off-center mini-rotor, this caliber provides a power reserve of 48 hours.

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts World Time Ref. 5231G-001

The Ref. 5231G-001 Rare Handcrafts World Time model comes with a matte navy blue alligator leather strap.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts World Time Ref. 5231G-001

Movement
Caliber 240 HU
Self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter: 27.5 mm
Height: 3.88 mm
Number of parts: 239
Bridges: 8
Jewels: 33
Power reserve: Min. 48 hours
22K gold off-center mini-rotor
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Patents: CH 595 653 and CH 693 191

Functions
World Time
24-hour and day/night indication for the 24 time zones

Dial
Grand Feu cloisonné enamel center: Oceania and South-East Asia, 4 gold splangles.

Case
White gold case
Diameter: 38.5 mm
Height: 10.23 mm
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30 m

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, matte navy blue
Fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe Ladies’ World Time Ref. 7130R-014

The iconic Patek Philippe World Time watch is available in a new ladies’ rose gold version with a timeless green dial.

The dial center is adorned with a finely hand-guilloched basket weave motif. The rose gold bezel is adorned with 62 diamonds (~0.82 ct).

Patek Philippe Ladies’ World Time Ref. 7130R-014

The Patek Philippe reference 7130R World Time series was introduced in 2011. The ultra-thin self-winding caliber 240 HU simultaneously displays the time in all 24 time zones. An exclusive patented mechanism enables all the indications to be corrected with a single press of the pusher at 10 o’clock when changing time zones.

Patek Philippe Ladies’ World Time Ref. 7130R-014

The new Patek Philippe Ref. 7130R-014 Ladies’ World Time watch is delivered with an olive green calfskin strap with a diamond-set prong buckle.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Ref. 7130R-014 Ladies’ World Time

Movement
Caliber 240 HU
Self-winding mechanical movement

Functions
World Time
24-hour and day/night indication for the 24 time zones

Dial
Olive green, hand-guilloched with old-basket weave motif
Gold applied hour markers

Case
Rose gold case
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30 m
Case diameter: 36 mm
Height: 8.83 mm

Gem-setting
Bezel set with 62 diamonds (~0.82 ct)
Prong buckle set with 27 diamonds (~0.21 ct.).

Bracelet
Calfskin, hand-stitched, shiny olive green
Prong buckle

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 Limited Edition

Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a magnificent new artistic interpretation of the Universal Time: Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948, embellished with great finesse by the artisans of the Manufacture’s Métiers Rares® atelier.

Since the 1930s, Jaeger-LeCoultre has been creating timepieces able to display several time zones simultaneously. From dual-time watches to the Géographique and the remarkable Calibre 948 world timer, La Grande Maison makes time truly universal.

When Jaeger-LeCoultre created the Calibre 948, it was the first time that a world-time complication had ever been united with a flying tourbillon. What’s more, the Universal Tourbillon makes a complete circuit of the dial every 24 hours – the length of a mean solar day.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 Limited Edition

A true expression of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s technical expertise, the automatic calibre was conceived, developed and entirely produced within the Manufacture. The splendid new aesthetic expression of the world-time complication showcases La Grande Maison’s artistic creativity and mastery of the decorative crafts alongside its technical prowess.

In a subtle allusion to the depth and complexity of time measurement, the dial is made of several parts.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 Limited Edition

At its centre, in keeping with world-timer tradition, is a map of the world as seen from the North Pole. However, unlike the traditional flattened image, this map floats above the dial bed on a domed skeleton formed by the longitudes and latitudes of the Northern Hemisphere.

Created by the master artisans of the Manufacture’s Métiers Rares® (Rare Handcrafts™) atelier, the outline of the continents is cut from a sheet of white gold and decorated with champlevé enamel.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 Limited Edition

Champlevé – which translates literally as ‘raised field’ – is a noble and ancient enamelling technique that was first practiced almost 2,500 years ago. With great skill, the artisan must first carve out a depression in the raw metal, conforming exactly to the outline of the desired image – in this case, the shapes of the continents seen from the North Pole.

This hollow area is then filled with multiple layers of enamel – fired at very high temperatures after each layer – until it is flush with the original surface. On the completed enamel surfaces, miniature-painted details of the continents’ major landscape features have been painstakingly added, enhancing the work with even greater intrigue and refinement.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 Limited Edition

For the new Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948, the enamelling of a single dome requires 55 hours of work. Measuring just 25.5mm in diameter, each dial is a remarkable work of art in miniature, requiring almost 70 hours of meticulous work altogether.

Beneath the dome, representing the oceans, the dial bed is a disc of vivid blue translucent lacquer applied over a wavy guilloché pattern that suggests the movement of the sea and the lunar influence on its tides. In circular aperture to one side of the map, the flying tourbillon appears to float weightlessly above the blue oceans, spinning in 60 seconds.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 Limited Edition

As on all classical world timers, each time zone is represented by the name of a city, arranged in a ring around the central dial. Set outside the city ring are two concentric fixed rings: a 24-hour indicator with applied numerals and rectangular indexes, and a minute track laser-engraved on a ring of blue lacquer that matches the blue oceans. Mimicking the rotation of Earth on its axis, the domed Earth map – together with the Universal Tourbillon and city ring – makes a complete 360-degree revolution in 24 hours, always indicating the right time in each city.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 Limited Edition

The Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 is very simple to read: the hour marked on the ring adjacent to the city name is the time in that city’s zone. It is equally simple to operate: the time is set with the crown, which synchronises all of the time zones around the world. On arrival at a new destination, local time is set by the same crown, which moves only the hour hand, in one-hour jumps forwards or backwards, allowing the minutes and seconds to continue running accurately.

The Master Grande Tradition case is a perfect complement to the dial. Comprising more than 80 parts, its convex bezel contrasts with broad bevels on the lugs, and the hollowed-out lug sides add dynamic tension. Different surfaces are microblasted, polished and satin-brushed to maximise the play of light.

Technical details

Model: Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948
Reference Q52834E1

Case
White gold; sapphire case-back
Dimensions: 43mm x 14.13mm
Water resistance: 5 bar

Movement
Calibre: automatic mechanical Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 948
Frequency: 28,800
Power reserve: 48 hours

Functions
Hours/minutes, universal flying tourbillon, world-time display (24 time zones), 24-hour indication

Dial
Blue translucent lacquer over a wavy guilloche pattern; domed skeleton structure decorated with champlevé enamel

Strap
Alligator leather with deployant buckle

Edition
Limited edition of 20 pieces

Frederique Constant Classics Worldtimer Manufacture 10th Anniversary Limited Editions

Presented in 2012, the Classics Worldtimer Manufacture is one of the best-selling timepieces from Frederique Constant. In 2022, the brand is celebrating its 10th anniversary with two very exclusive limited editions: the first in 18-carat pink gold, a production of just 88 watches and the second in steel comprising 1,888 pieces.

Frederique Constant Classics Worldtimer Manufacture 10th Anniversary Limited Editions

To celebrate this anniversary, Frederique Constant has decided to create exclusive NFTs (Non Fungible Tokens) of the Classics Worldtimer Manufacture in partnership with Rarecubes, a Geneva-based studio specialised in blockchain technology.

Frederique Constant Classics Worldtimer Manufacture 10th Anniversary Limited Editions

The deep blue dial executed in relief and in grey represents the oceans of the central planisphere. All around luminescent indexes are applied to ensure perfect readability, even at night – like the hour and minute hands, marked in the same way. To finish the assembly, a white disc displaying 24 cities unfolds on the flange. Finally, at 6 o’clock the date is displayed by a hand on a blue, fine sunray guilloché dial.

Frederique Constant Classics Worldtimer Manufacture 10th Anniversary Limited Editions

The hands of the hours, minutes and seconds – as well as the contour of the indexes – also elegantly reflect the case, using the same hue. Sharing the same 42 mm diameter, these two timepieces are worn on a navy blue alligator strap with a folding buckle, decorated with the emblematic seal of the Frederique Constant Manufacture.

Frederique Constant Classics Worldtimer Manufacture 10th Anniversary Limited Editions

The automatic FC-718 calibre offers a 38-hour power reserve. Of proven reliability, this movement is also an example of simplicity: all of its indications are adjusted with the single crown, thanks to an ingenious three-notch system. The first winds the watch. The second adjusts the date (upwards) and the reference city (downwards). The third adjusts the time in the central display.

Frederique Constant Classics Worldtimer Manufacture

Simple and intuitive, this design allows the wearer to cross time zones concentrating only on discovery of the world, without having to worry about the time read: local time (with the central hands) and home time (via the mobile flange) are automatically synchronised with each other. No need either to have to make an effort to differentiate the day-time zones from the night-time zones: the two disc colours surrounding the globe (dark for the night, white for the day) naturally indicate them, by the two consecutive 12-hour segments opposite the reference cities in question.

Frederique Constant Classics Worldtimer Manufacture

This exceptional movement is visible through the open back of the timepiece. Like any genuine Manufacture calibre signed Frederique Constant, it is richly decorated with the Côtes de Genève stripe and delicate stippling of its bottom plate, above which turns its oscillating weight with a satin and draw file finish.

Technical details

Model: Frederique Constant Classics Worldtimer Manufacture
Reference: FC-718NWWM4H9

Frederique Constant Classics Worldtimer Manufacture

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date by hand, worldtimer

Movement
FC-718 in-house caliber, automatic with all functions adjustable by the crown
Perlage& circular Côtes de Genève decorations
38-hour power reserve, 26 jewels, 28’800 alt/h

Case
Polished 18K rose gold 3-part case
Diameter of 42 mm
Height of 12.15 mm
Scratch-resistant convex sapphire crystal
See-through case back
Water-resistant up to 3 ATM/30m/100ft

Dial
Blue and grey dial with globe decoration
Rose gold-plated applied indexes filled with white luminous treatment
24H disc with day (white) & night (blue) indication
White city disc with 24 cities
Hand-polished rose gold-plated hour and minute hands filled with white luminous treatment
Hand-polished rose gold-plated second hand
Date by hand blue counter at 6 o’clock with sunray guilloche decoration in the center and a hand-polished rose gold-plated hand

Strap
Navy blue alligator leather strap with off-white stitching

Limited edition
Limited to 88 pieces

Recommended retail price
16’995€

Model: Frederique Constant Classics Worldtimer Manufacture
Reference: FC-718NWWM4H6

Frederique Constant Classics Worldtimer Manufacture stainless steel

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date by hand, worldtimer

Movement
FC-718 in-house caliber, automatic with all functions adjustable by the crown
Perlage& circular Côtes de Genève decorations
38-hour power reserve, 26 jewels, 28’800 alt/h

Case
Polished stainless steel 3-part case
Diameter of 42 mm
Height of 12.10 mm
Scratch-resistant convex sapphire crystal
See-through case back
Water-resistant up to 5 ATM/50m/164ft

Dial
Blue and grey dial with globe decoration
Silver color applied indexes filled with white luminous treatment
24H disc with day (white) & night (blue) indication
White city disc with 24 cities
Hand-polished silver color hour and minute hands filled with white luminous treatment
Hand-polished silver color second hand
Date by hand blue counter at 6 o’clock with sunray guilloché decoration in the center and a hand-polished silver color hand

Strap
Navy blue alligator leather strap with off-white stitching

Limited edition
Limited to 1888 pieces

Recommended retail price
3’895€

Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck

Introduced in February 2022 to commemorate the new lunar year, this timepiece is an ultra-design version of one of Ulysse Nardin’s historical astronomical complications: the Moonstruck.

Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck watch

With an easily readable and understandable display, it is the successor of the astronomical instruments of the past. Thanks to its sophisticated mechanism, it assures the display of the time in a place chosen from among the 24 principal time zones that the world has been using since the Washington Convention of 1884. By means of pushers located on the left-hand side of the case, it is possible to put the main time display forward or back in leaps of one hour to adjust to another time zone.

Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck

The Blast Moonstruck is also fitted with a moon phase complication of precision, which, combined with the complication that allows real-time following of the sun that gives it its brilliance, adds relief and life to the dial.

Designed to follow in the footsteps of the fabulous trilogy devised by Ludwig Oechslin from 1985, this watch puts aside the Copernican representation of our solar system in favor of a geocentric approach that is easier to read and understand. To accentuate this sensation of being at the heart of the universe based on observation of the watch, the designers chose to place the part of the northern hemisphere seen from the North Pole at the center of the instrument’s sapphire crystal.

Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck watch

To increase the impact of the 3D effect, the domed crystal, with the land masses micro- engraved on the inside, is set in the protective sapphire crystal box encircled by an 18ct rose gold ring engraved with the 31 days of the month, which has for a pointer a small triangle loaded with luminescent material.

Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck

Underneath this three-dimensional structure glide hands of the precision and contemporary design that the Blast collection is known for.

Their tapering form ensures instinctive reading, even in total darkness, thanks to the presence of a generous quantity of luminescent material down the middle. They indicate the local time, set to the time of the time zone in which the watch’s owner lives. But they can also be set at will to any one of 24 time zones for which the names of corresponding cities are reproduced on the fixed flange of the dial.

Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck

This can be done, forwards or backwards, by means of a sophisticated mechanism very often used by Ulysse Nardin and activated by the two rectangular pushers located on the left side of the case.

This 45mm diameter astronomical watch in black ceramic and black DLC- treated titanium, worn on a alligator, velvet or rubber strap that is also black, surely meets the expectations of this ambitious project.

In addition to the time display observable against a background of the night-sky portrayed by a disk made of aventurine, times around the world can be read with the aid of the fixed flange bearing the names of cities and the rotating disk on which a sun in relief and the time indications appear at 12o’clock.

Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck

The watch also has a Dual Time mechanism. This allows changing of the main display in leaps of full hours with the aid of the two pushers located on the left side of the case middle to show the time in a given country on the dial while keeping the initial time alongside the reference city. This highly efficient watch also possesses an aperture that, showing the phases of the moon in a realistic manner, associates its course with a three-dimensional representation of the sun located at 12 o’clock on the time display for the reference time zone.

The Moonstruck boasts a representation of the moon phases in a round aperture located at the apogee of an ellipse portraying its orbit, which is depicted as being in the same ecliptic plane as Earth for practical reasons. This aperture, carried by a disk, is associated with an elaborate gear train. It causes the moon phase indicator to make one complete rotation per day to follow the course of the sun, the source of the moon’s brightness, and also causes it to make a full circle of the dial in 29 days, 12 hours, 41minutes and 9.3 seconds, representing the duration of a lunar month, which has an Astronomical duration of 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.9 seconds.

To conserve its accuracy, the aperture showing the representation of the moon retreats every 24 hours on its circle of revolution by an angle corresponding, in degrees, to 1/29.53 of a lunar month to occupy a new position in relation to the sun. At the same time, the representation contained in this small mobile aperture also evolves to appear a little brighter or dimmer in line with the lunar calendar.

Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck

When a portion of the moon is visible in it, the aperture conserves an identical position in relation to the sun, here reproduced in relief and made of bronzite, for 24 hours. This rare and precious mineral of the pyroxenes family presents a golden surface punctuated with dark patches intended to reproduce those observable with a telescope on the mantle of the star around which, in reality, the earth gravitates.

The moon phase display, described as being “of precision” because it will produce a divergence of one day only after 40 years of working, is associated with markings of the ages of the moon on the ellipse is intended to represent the revolution of our natural satellite around the earth.

Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck

The Blast Moonstruck watch houses the Cal. UN-106, a 42-jewel self-winding mechanical movement with a power reserve of 52 hours. Fitted with a 22K gold oscillating weight, this in-house caliber can be admired through the sapphire crystal case-back.

Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck

This complex mechanism is however easy to adjust, as all the information can be set from the winding crown. A little concentration when correctly positioning all the useful information, from the reference city to the local time and date, suffices to ensure that the complication subsequently manages all the displays on its own as long as the watch is worn.

Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck

The Blast Moonstruck watch is supplied in a special box that contains an automatic winder designed to take care of the winding and keep its calendar information accurate.

Technical details

Model: Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck
Reference 1063-400-2A/1A

Movement
UN-106 Manufacture caliber
Automatic winding
335 components
42 jewels
Frequency: 4 Hz / 28,800 V/H
5N Rose gold oscillating weight
Power reserve: 50 hours

Functions
Hours, minutes, date
Moon phase indication
Days of lunar month
Tidal coefficients
Worldtimer
Dual Time
Positions of the sun and moon around the globe

Case
Black ceramic
Black DLC titanium
Sapphire crystal
Open case back, sapphire crystal & black DLC titanium
Diameter: 45 mm
Water resistance: 30 m

Strap
Black alligator, velvet, or rubber
SYNC folding clasp, black DLC titanium and pink gold

Price
75’000 CHF / 71’300 EUR

Availability
Limited production

ZTAGE “Love Our Planet” Special Conservation Project 2022 Watch Collection

Founded in 2017 and based in Hong Kong, ZTAGE offers Swiss Made mechanical timepieces with in-house design and produced with traditional watchmaking techniques. Its creations showcase concern for global issues.

The assembling of movements and wristwatches takes place in Switzerland. Once the watch is assembled, it is forwarded to the brand’s headquarters in Hong Kong for a rigorous final 240-hour inspection. To ensure that each watch is of the highest quality, all models are produced in limited quantities, with every detail is meticulously maintained.

ZTAGE dares to innovate and adds a contemporary touch to its products, combining conventional, modern and brand-new materials to present a whole new look to traditional craftsmanship.

ZTAGE HYBRID ORIGINAL- GLACIER

The brand has recently announced a special conservation project inspired by “OUR PLANET”, the 2019 natural history documentary series produced by Netflix, Silverback Productions and WWF. The documentary presents an unprecedented look at the survival of species at risk in polar regions, desert grasslands and forest habitats.

Based on “OUR PLANET,” ZTAGE has proposed three special watches representing different habitats of animals on the planet, with an aim to promote the spirit of conservation. WWF (HK) is the designated beneficiary of this project. A portion of the profits, after deducting costs, will be donated to WWF-Hong Kong.

The entire Q1 2022 Conservation Collection is presented in two new collections: HYBRID Original and HYBRID Off Ground.

ZTAGE HYBRID ORIGINAL- GLACIER

Limited to 200 piece worldwide, this timepiece reminds us about the conservation of Antarctica, the snow-filled continent that is right now facing the threats of greenhouse effect.

The “HYBRID ORIGINAL” is a full-calendar complication watch that showcases the “Antarctic Glacier”, which depicts the ecological beauty of the region in black and white layers. Its translucent dial instantly reveals the beauty of the mechanical movement that beats inside.

ZTAGE HYBRID ORIGINAL- GLACIER

This triple calendar watch displays “month”, “day”, “moon phase” and “hand-type date” with a striking translucent face. The design of the moon phase has been adjusted and optimized numerous times. Different colour shades have been used to show the texture of the moon and added a luminous effect.

ZTAGE HYBRID ORIGINAL- GLACIER

This 44mm diameter wristwatch comes with a four-side integrated case. To give it a distinctive layering on both edges, the lugs are divided into two separate components, which are inserted and secured from both sides.

ZTAGE HYBRID ORIGINAL- GLACIER

The bezel is inserted from top to bottom and the case-back from the bottom to top, forming a four-sided insertion into the main case at the same time. This design not only creates an eye-catching visual effect, but also opens endless possibilities for future extensions.

ZTAGE HYBRID ORIGINAL- GLACIER

All nine components of the case are hand-polished in over 30 steps, creating a luxurious interplay of satin and polished lines. The crown is set with a “luminescent bead”, a unique feature of the brand. When viewed at night, the light shines through the crown and sparkles in the evening sky.

ZTAGE HYBRID ORIGINAL- GLACIER

This HYBRID -Full Calendar watch houses a modified Swiss self-winding movement featuring ETA2892-A2 as the base and Dubois-Depraz 90000 module with triple calendar and moon-phase. The hour and minute hands, indices and the moon-phase display incorporate Swiss SuperLuminova.

ZTAGE HYBRID ORIGINAL- GLACIER

This model has a water resistance of 50 meters.

Technical details

Functions
Hour, Minute, Second
Week, Month and Pointer Date
Moonphase at 6’o clock

Case
316L Medical grade stainless steel, PVD coating
Multi-layer Structure
Diameter: 43 mm
Lug-to-lug: 50 mm
Thickness 13.5 mm
Ceramic bezel
Sapphire crystal with 7 layers AR coating
Crown with Signature luminous bead
Water resistance: 50m

Movement
Cal.2000 (Dubois-Depraz 90000 + ETA 2892-A2 Top Grade)
Swiss made. Every calibre goes through 5 position internal test, accuracy within +/-6 second per day.
After each watch is assembled, it will be tested 240 hours to ensure accuracy
Stop Second Function
Power reserve: 42 Hrs
Frequency: 28,800vph
Bidirectional Brand Logo Rotor
Jewels: 21

Dial
Indexes with Swiss SuperLuminova
Hour, Minute Hands with Swiss SuperLuminova
Moonphase with Swiss SuperLuminova

Strap
Double layer material, carbon nylon on top with High-tech FKM Rubber underneath
Folding buckle, 316L Medical grade stainless steel, PVD coating

Price
CHF 3,800

ZTAGE OFF GROUND GMT – AMAZONIA

Proposed in a limited edition of 300 pieces worldwide, this timepiece incorporates a distinct design inspired by the Amazon tropical rainforest, its precious ecosystem and biodiversity.

ZTAGE OFF GROUND GMT - AMAZONIANamed AMAZONIA, this HYBRID “Off Ground GMT” watch features the names of 24 major cities around the world on the crown-shaped outer bezel.

ZTAGE OFF GROUND GMT - AMAZONIA

In addition to bidirectional world-time bezel, the centrally placed GMT hand together with the 24-hour scale on the outer ring of the dial, indicates the time difference between other countries and your own region.

ZTAGE OFF GROUND GMT - AMAZONIAThe dial has a two-layered “sandwich” design. The top layer is skeletonized with a 12-hour scale and a calendar frame. The bottom dial is coated with Swiss Super-LumiNova. This model comes with emblematic features like the four-side integrated case and the crown with luminous bead.

ZTAGE OFF GROUND GMT - AMAZONIA

AMAZONIA features a 44mm diameter case made of 316L grade stainless steel. It also has a solid steel case-back. It houses a Swiss automatic movement (modified Soprod caliber) with a power reserve of 42 hours. The watch is water resistant to 300 meters.

ZTAGE OFF GROUND GMT - AMAZONIA

Technical details

Functions
Bidirectional world-time bezel
Hour, Minute, Second
GMT Hand in Center
Date at 6’o clock

Case
316L Medical grade stainless steel, PVD coating
Multi-layer Structure
Diameter: 44 mm
Lug-to-lug: 51 mm
Thickness: 15 mm
Sapphire World-Time bezel
World-Time indicator with SuperLuminova
Sapphire crystal with 7 layers AR coating
Crown with rubber ring, Signature luminous bead
Water resistance: 300m/1000ft

Movement
Cal.1100
Modified Soprod movement
Stop Second Function
Power reserve: 42 Hrs
Frequency: 4hz / 28,800vph
Bidirectional Rotor
Jewels: 25
Swiss made
Every calibre goes through 5 position internal test, accuracy within +/-6 second per day
After each watch is assembled, it will be tested 240 hours to ensure accuracy

Dial
Sandwich dial
Indexes with Swiss SuperLuminova
Date frame with Swiss SuperLuminova
24 hours indicator with Swiss SuperLuminova

Strap
Double layer material, carbon nylon on top with High-tech FKM Rubber underneath
Folding buckle, 316L Medical grade stainless steel, PVD coating

Price
CHF 1,980

ZTAGE OFF GROUND GMT – SAVANNA

Limited to 300 pieces worldwide, this timepiece is inspired by the Great African plains known for the most spectacular animal migrations on the planet. Savanna is also the habitat of many endangered species. This automatic stainless steel watch comes with a 44mm diameter stainless steel case.

ZTAGE OFF GROUND GMT - SAVANNA

The ZTAGE SAVANNA watch features an outer bezel with the names of 24 major cities around the world. In addition to the bezel, the GMT hand together with the 24-hour scale on the outer dial ring, informs you of the time difference between other countries and home zone.

ZTAGE OFF GROUND GMT - SAVANNA

Like the AMAZONIA model, SAVANNA comes with a two-layered “sandwich” dial. Just like other timepieces in this collection, it also features a four-side integrated case and a crown set with a luminous bead.

ZTAGE OFF GROUND GMT - SAVANNA

Its sapphire world time bezel, dial indices, hands, date frame and 24 hour outer dial ring are applied with luminescent material. Secured with a solid steel case-back on the reverse side, the watch offers a water resistance of 300 meters.

ZTAGE OFF GROUND GMT - SAVANNA watch

Technical details

Functions
Bidirectional world-time bezel
Hour, Minute and Second
GMT Hand in Center
Date at 6’o clock

Case
316L Medical grade stainless steel, PVD coating
Multi layer Structure
Diameter: 44 mm
Lug-to-lug: 51 mm
Thickness: 15 mm
Sapphire World Time bezel
World-Time indicator with SuperLuminova
Sapphire crystal with 7 layers AR coating
Crown with rubber ring, Signature luminous bead
Water resistance: 300m/1000ft

Movement
Cal.1100, Modified Soprod movement
Swiss made. Every calibre goes through 5 position internal test, accuracy within +/- 6 second per day.
After each watch is assembled, it will be tested 240 hours to ensure accuracy
Stop Second Function
Power reserve: 42 Hrs
Frequency: 4hz / 28,800vph
Bidirectional Rotor
Jewels: 25

Dial
Sandwich dial
Index with Swiss SuperLuminova
Date frame with Swiss SuperLuminova
24 hours indicator with Swiss SuperLuminova

Strap
Double layer material, carbon nylon on top with High-tech FKM Rubber underneath
Folding buckle, 316L Medical grade stainless steel, PVD coating

Price
CHF 1,980

To promote this projects, the brand has announced a 7-day pre-order period open to public from15 Jan 2022 to 22 Jan 2022. Estimated delivery in June – July 2022. Please visit ZTAGE website for more details.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Limited Editions: The Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture and the Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture

Frederique Constant has expanded its Highlife series by presenting two stunning and exclusive Highlife Emerald limited editions: the Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture (limited to 30 pieces) and the Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture (limited to 222 pieces).

Unveiled at the Dubai Watch Week 2021, these special edition watches feature emerald green dials. A tone dear to Frederique Constant, the green colour is associated with nature, representing the source of life.

In 1999, Frederique Constant introduced the very first Highlife watches. In 2020, the Maison revived the iconic design and reintroduced the collection with resolutely modern curves rooted in the 21st century, thus adding a new dimension to the definition of accessible luxury according to Frederique Constant. The new design translates into both taut and flexible lines, the modernity of a creation that denies nothing of its craftsmanship, balance or style.

One of the key hallmarks of Highlife stamped timepieces is an integrated and interchangeable strap, offering a seamless integration with the watch case. This innovative system makes it possible to change the strap at will and without the need for tools.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture

Dedicated to frequent travelers, the Frederique Constant Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture watch boasts a globe engraved dial, combined to a contemporary 41 mm steel case.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture

The highly contemporary design of the steel case and dial with globe engraving is an ode to travel. The FC-718 manufacture calibre is designed exactly for that. The self-winding mechanical movement has a power reserve of 38 hours. It is visible through the case back, water-resistant up to 50 metres. The movement incorporates typical Genevan finishes like perlage and circular Côtes de Genève.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture

Highly user-friendly, its single crown can be used to set any function: hours, minutes, the date at 6 o’clock and the 24 cities disc that represents 24 time zones on Earth, itself engraved in the centre of the piece. There is no day / night indicator required; the inner disc has been engraved with 12 hours on the light area (cities where it is daytime) and 12 hours on the blue area (those where it is night-time).

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture

Green is the dominant colour of the Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture Limited Edition. It takes up the whole centre of the dial, as well as the date counter, for which Frederique Constant has used its unique sunray guilloché for improved legibility. This is skimmed by three central rhodium-plated hands, including luminescent hour and minute hands that are easy to read, even when travelling to the other side of the world at night.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture

The Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture is delivered with an integrated and interchangeable steel bracelet, which can be switched to an extra black rubber strap on a split second, to complement the urban feel of the watch.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

Presented in a steel case, this bold timepiece incorporates two most prestigious horological mechanisms: Tourbillon and Perpetual Calendar.

Within the 41 mm case with the integrated strap characteristic of the Highlife collection, Frederique Constant has organised its complications into four segments.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

The brand has arranged both day and date displays horizontally, so as to be read in a natural and intuitive way in a fraction of a second. Brought together in a single counter at 12 o’clock are the month (large hand) and leap year indication (small hand). Adding the finishing touch to this perfectly mastered aesthetic composition, the tourbillon balances it out at 6 o’clock, counting down the seconds with its central hand.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

The Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture is dominated by the green colour. On both sides of the complications on display, Frederique Constant has opted for a face without a dial. This allows you to see the inner workings of the FC-975 Manufacture calibre, alongside the delicate blued screws, perlage and subtle Côtes de Genève.

It also improves the contrast between the rhodium-plated movement and the perpetual calendar display. To ensure it is easy to read, the Manufacture has also been careful to give them recessed counters on two levels, so as to better capture the light.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

The FC-975 caliber is designed, produced and assembled in very limited numbers at the Geneva-based manufacture. For greater precision (an essential characteristic of the tourbillon), Frederique Constant has equipped it with a silicone escapement – both the escape wheel and the lever.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

Limited to 30 timepieces, this exclusive model is mounted on a three-link polished and satin-brushed steel bracelet, and delivered alongside a second rubber strap.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

Technical details

Model: Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture
Reference: FC-975GR4NH6B

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day, month, leap year

Movement
FC-975 caliber, automatic, tourbillon, perpetual calendar
Perlage, drafted marks and Côtes de Genève decorations
38-hour power reserve, 33 jewels, 28’800 alt/h
Silicon escapement wheel and anchor

Case
Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-part case
Diameter of 41 mm
Height of 12.65 mm
Front convex sapphire crystal
See-through case back
Water-resistant up to 5 ATM

Dial
Skeleton dial
Green outer ring with white printed second markers
Hand-polished silvered color with white luminous treatment hour and minute hands
Green day counter at 9 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hand
Green month and year counter at 12 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hands
Green date counter at 3 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hand
Open tourbillon’s cage at 6 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color second hand

Strap
Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-link bracelet
Including an additional dark green rubber strap

Edition
Limited to 30 pieces

Suggested retail price
22’995€

Model: Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture
Reference: FC-718GR4NH6B

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date by hand, worldtimer

Movement
FC-718 Manufacture caliber, automatic with all functions adjustable by the crown
Perlage& circular Côtes de Genève decoration on the movement
26 jewels, 38-hour power reserve, 28’800 alt/h

Case
Brushed and polished stainless steel3-part case
Diameter of 41 mm
Height of 12.90 mm
Front convex sapphire crystal
See-through case back
Water-resistant up to 5 ATM

Dial
Green dial, globe decoration and silver color applied indexes with white luminous treatment
24H disc with day (white) & night (green) indication
City disc with 24 cities
Hand-polished silver color with white luminous treatment hour and minute hands
Hand-polished silver color second hand
Date counter at 6 o’clock with hand-polished silver color hand

Strap
Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-link bracelet
Including an additional dark green rubber strap

Edition
Limited to 222 pieces

Suggested retail price
3’795€

 

Greubel Forsey GMT Earth Titanium (Final Edition)

Greubel Forsey During Geneva Watch Days 2021, Greubel Forsey launched the third and final interpretation of its GMT Earth. Made of titanium, this intense black version is a limited edition of 11 pieces.

The GMT Earth by Greubel Forsey is an extraordinary wristwatch that, for the first time, makes it possible to appreciate the entirety of the world in a single glance.

This technical feat first appeared in 2011. At the time of the first “GMT”, the Earth was not yet fully revealed. Seven years later, the design of the Earth was finally complete: visible from all angles in its new sapphire alcove, it appears as though it is floating in space. On the front as well as the back, the laser-engraved Earth shows world times that are both quick and easy to read.

The first version of the GMT Earth was in white gold. The second was in platinum. Now, this timepiece is available with a new titanium case. The GMT Earth in titanium will be available in a limited edition of 11 pieces, three times less than the original version. Weighing just 117g, the weight of the strap has been reduced by two-thirds. The case has lost just over a third of its weight.

Greubel Forsey GMT Earth Titanium (Final Edition)

Titanium is used not only for the entire case, but also the bridges, the GMT push-piece, the crown and the folding buckle, the latter two being the components most exposed to shocks and scratches.

To accompany the light and matt tones of titanium, Greubel Forsey opted for a black finish on the dial. It is applied to the spotted bottom plate and to all the frosted bridges, with straight flanks, polished bevelling and countersinks. This finish is also featured on an all-black natural rubber strap, whose inner face is engraved with the cardinal values of the Greubel Forsey Atelier and which are visible on the bezel.

Greubel Forsey GMT Earth Titanium (Final Edition)

The GMT Earth displays four key pieces of information on its dial side. The first is the off-centre hours, minutes and seconds display. The first two feature large openworked hands finished with a Super-LumiNova tip, complemented by a small seconds hand on a sapphire disc at three o’clock.

On the left is the GMT indicator, whose red hand effortlessly stands out against a hand-engraved black gold disc filled with lacquer. The third, located opposite the crown, is the power reserve, designed following the same process: a black, engraved gold segment, filled with lacquer and covered by a silver-polished steel hand.

Finally between 7 o’clock and 9 o’clock, the Earth occupies the largest space, completing a full rotation in 24 hours. The engraved sapphire ring around the equator acts as a day / night indication and allows you to instantly see which hemisphere is in the daytime and which is at night.

Greubel Forsey GMT Earth Titanium (Final Edition)

Located on the side of the caseband, a final window opens to show the equator. Thanks to this, the Earth really can be seen from all angles.

Finally, on the caseback side, the worldtime display indicator completes the design. 24 time zones indicate the UTC of 24 major cities – with those that observe daylight savings on a white background.

The GMT Earth boasts Greubel Forsey’s third invention Tourbillon 24 Secondes, which uses a fast rotation speed and is set at an angle to resolve the positioning problem in relation to gravity and which is crucial for the operation of the oscillator. The 25° angle and the rapid rotation of the tourbillon cage significantly improve the chronometric performance of a system containing only one tourbillon, especially those in fixed positions.

Technical details

Model: GMT Earth

Edition
Limited edition of 11 pieces in titanium

Special features
GMT • 2nd time zone • rotating globe with universal time and day-and-night • complete and global view from northern to southern hemisphere • universal time on 24 time zones • summer and winter time • cities observing summer time • lateral window showing the equator • GMT pusher • Tourbillon 24 Secondes • hours and minutes • small seconds • power-reserve indicator

Movement

Hand-wound movement with 3 patents

Movement dimensions
• Diameter: 36.40mm
• Thickness: 11.55mm

Number of parts
• Movement: 453 parts
• Tourbillon cage: 86 parts
• Weight of the cage: 0.39g

Number of jewels
• 60
• Olived-domed jewels in gold chatons

Chronometric power reserve
• 72 hours

Barrels
• Two coaxial series-coupled fast-rotating barrels (1 turn in 3.2 hours), one of which is equipped with a slipping spring to avoid excess tension

Balance wheel
• Variable-inertia with gold mean-time screws (10mm diameter)

Frequency
• 21’600 vibrations/hour

Balance spring
• Phillips terminal curve
• Geneva-style stud

Main plate
• Nickel silver, frosted and spotted with polished bevelling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks, black treatment

Bridges
• Nickel silver, frosted with polished bevelling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks, black treatment
• Flat black polished steel tourbillon bridge, hand-polished bevelling and countersinks
• Flat black polished steel screws, blued by heat treatment

Tourbillon
• Inclined at a 25° angle, 24-seconds rotation
• Light alloy cage pillars
• Titanium cage bridges
• Gold counterweight

Gearing
• Involute circle profile
• Tangential inclined gear on fixed wheel and profiled teeth on escape wheel pinion

Displays

Hours and minutes
Small seconds
72-hours power reserve on a sector
2nd time zone GMT
24 time zones universal time
Rotating titanium globe with universal time
Complete view from North Pole to South Pole
Summer time
Day-and-night

Exterior

Case
In titanium, with titanium plates, engraved, hand-finished with text, screwed to the caseband
Lateral window with shaped synthetic sapphire crystal
Three-dimensional, variable geometry-shaped lugs
Three-dimensional synthetic sapphire crystal caseback, with integrated dome
Three-dimensional, asymmetrical, synthetic sapphire crystal bezel
Raised polished engraving “GMT Earth” and “Greubel Forsey” on a hand-punched background
Gold security screws
Titanium GMT pusher with raised engraving on a hand-punched background
Engraved individual number
Water-resistance: 3atm – 30m – 100ft (standard NIHS 92-20/SN ISO 22810:2010)

Case dimensions
Diameter: 45.50mm
Height: case 16.18mm
Height on synthetic sapphire dome: 18.00mm

Crown
In titanium, synthetic sapphire insert with GF logo

Dial Side
Multi-level hour-ring in synthetic sapphire, galvanic growth hour indexes, engraved and lacquered minutes and small seconds
Power-reserve and GMT indicators in gold, engraved and lacquered, circular-grained, black treatment
Rotating globe with day-and-night UTC indicator in synthetic sapphire, engraved and lacquered

Movement Side
Synthetic sapphire disc displaying city names surrounded by 2 gold rings (UTC and summer time) engraved and lacquered
Gold “summer time” plate with individual number, raised engraving
South Pole of the globe with UTC indicator, engraved and lacquered, hand matt lapped

Hands
Hours, minutes, small seconds and power-reserve in polished steel, hand-polished countersinks
2nd time zone GMT indicator, red triangle

Strap and clasp
Rubber or hand-sewn alligator
Titanium folding clasp, engraved with the GF logo

Patek Philippe Self-winding World Time Flyback Chronograph Reference 5930P-001

Patek Philippe presents a new World Time Flyback Chronograph model featuring a platinum case, green dial and a matching alligator strap.

Inspired by a one-of-a-kind model from 1940, Reference 5930 combines two functions: a self-winding flyback chronograph and World Time – an iconic complication in the history and collections of the Manufacture. This model was launched in 2016 in a white gold version with a blue dial and matching strap.

Patek Philippe Self-winding World Time Flyback Chronograph Reference 5930P-001

In the new platinum version, the names of the cities are printed in green on the corresponding disk. The green dial center highlights a circular hand-guilloched circular pattern. This color is picked up at 6 o’clock on the snailed 30-minute counter. The applied hour-markers and the faceted Dauphine-type hands in white gold are highlighted by a luminescent coating ensuring good legibility in all circumstances.

The entirely hand-polished platinum case is set with a diamond at 6 o’clock. It features the “wing-type” lugs typical of 1940s-1950s World Time watches.

Patek Philippe Self-winding World Time Flyback Chronograph Reference 5930P-001

As caliber CH 28-520 HU is equipped with a column wheel and the modern disk-type vertical clutch, the central chronograph hand can also be used as a permanent (running) seconds display – thus ensuring minimal wear and tear and without affecting the movement accuracy or power reserve.

The 4 o’clock pusher enables instant restarting of a timing operation when the central hand is already performing an operation (“flyback” function) or is being used as a permanent (running) seconds display.

The World Time function simultaneously displays the time in 24 time zones. When changing time zones, an exclusive patented mechanism enables correction of all displays by pressing the 10 o’clock pusher, without affecting the accuracy of the movement.

The new Reference 5930P-001 is worn on a shiny bottle green alligator strap with a platinum fold-over clasp.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Self-winding World Time Flyback Chronograph Reference 5930P-001

Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement
Caliber CH 28‑520 HU
Diameter: 33 mm
Height: 7.97 mm
Parts: 343
Jewels: 38
Power-reserve: min. 50 hours – max. 55 hours
Winding rotor: 21K gold central rotor
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Functions
Flyback chronograph
Central chronograph hand and 30-minute counter
World Time
24-hour and day/night indication for the 24 time zones

Dial
Green, hand-guilloched, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating

Case
Platinum
Sapphire-crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30m
Case diameter: 39.5 mm
Height: 12.86 mm

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny bottle green
Fold-over clasp

BVLGARI OCTO ROMA WORLDTIMER

Unveiled at Geneva Watch Days 2021, the BVLGARI Octo Roma WorldTimer is designed for globetrotters: it enables instant reading of the time in 24 cities, i.e. in 24 time zones.

BVLGARI OCTO ROMA WORLDTIMER stainless steel watch with blue dial

This new world time automatic watch from the Octo Roma collection is driven by a new integrated movement comprising 261 components, developed and produced by the Manufacture in Le Sentier.

BVLGARI OCTO ROMA WORLDTIMER

The layout of the dial information features a central display of the hours, minutes and seconds combined with a double rotating disc on the outer edge: one for the 24 reference cities and another with a 24-hour graduated scale. Together, they enable simple and instant reading of the time.

BVLGARI OCTO ROMA WORLDTIMER black dlc

The functions are adjusted via the crown, first positioning the city of the chosen time zone at 12 o’clock, then setting the time until the hours and minutes hands indicate the exact time in the selected time zone – while taking care to ensure that the 24-hour indicator corresponds to the afore-mentioned chosen time zone. Once completed, these quick operations enable a reading of time in all time zones.

BVLGARI OCTO ROMA WORLDTIMER movement case back black dlc version

The elegantly understated BVLGARI watch with its instantly recognizable 41 mm case is available in satin-brushed and polished stainless steel, or in a black steel livery with sandblasted surfaces.

BVLGARI OCTO ROMA WORLDTIMER stainless steel watch case back view

Technical details

Model: Octo Roma WorldTimer Stainless Steel, reference 103481

BVLGARI OCTO ROMA WORLDTIMER Stainless Steel, reference 103481

Movement
BVL257 Mechanical self-winding movement with WorldTimer, hours, minutes and seconds, 24 time zones and 24-hour indicator; 42-hour power reserve, frequency: 28,800 Vph (4Hz); 26 jewels.
Diameter: 33.00 mm; thickness: 6.03 mm.

Case
Case in 904L stainless steel, 41 mm diameter with satin-brushed/polished finish, satin-brushed/polished bezel, 11.35mm thick, transparent back, screw-lock steel crown set with a ceramic decoration and serving to set the time as well as the cities indication; water-resistant to 100m.

Dial
Blue sunburst dial and indicators, applied brushed rhodium-plated hour-markers.

Bracelet
Satin-brushed/polished steel bracelet with triple-blade folding clasp.

Model: Octo Roma WorldTimer Steel DLC, reference 103486

BVLGARI OCTO ROMA WORLDTIMER Steel DLC, reference 103486

Movement
BVL257 Mechanical self-winding movement with WorldTimer, hours, minutes and seconds, 24 time zones and 24-hour indicator; 42-hour power reserve, frequency: 28,800 Vph (4Hz); 26 jewels.
Diameter: 33.00 mm; thickness: 6.03 mm.

Case
Case in 904L steel, 41mm diameter, black sandblasted DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) finish, 11.35mm thick, transparent caseback, screw-lock crown in DLC steel set with a ceramic decoration and serving to set the time as well as the cities indication, water-resistant to 100m.

Dial
Matt black sandblasted dial and indicators, hour-markers enhanced with Super-LumiNova® (SLN), hours and minutes hands with SLN.

Strap
Black textured rubber strap with DLC steel pin buckle.

Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5231J-001, Yellow Gold Case and Cloisonné Enamel Dial

Launched in the 1930s, Patek Philippe’s famous World Time watch displays the time simultaneously and continuously in all 24 time zones.

It took another step forward in terms of functionality in 1999, by introducing an exclusive patented mechanism that enables its owner, when changing time zones, to correct all the displays collectively by pressing once on a single pusher, without affecting the rate accuracy of the movement. This cult watch beloved of seasoned travelers and collectors is particularly renowned for its men’s models featuring a dial center adorned with a planisphere in cloisonné enamel.

Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5231J-001, Yellow Gold Case and Cloisonné Enamel Dial

One such is Ref. 5131, produced since 2008 in a case with a cambered bezel, first in yellow-gold and then successively in white-gold, rose-gold and platinum versions.

Patek Philippe is continuing the legend of this great classic by endowing it with the same Calatrava-style case introduced in 2016 for the World Time Ref. 5230 watches with a hand guilloched dial center. It is unmistakable, with its prominent, winglet-style lugs and narrow, smoothly polished bezel.

Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5231J-001, Yellow Gold Case and Cloisonné Enamel Dial

The cloisonné enamel planisphere representing Europe, Africa and the Americas is crafted entirely by hand and is remarkable for its detail, color and depth. This jewel of rare handcraftsmanship is enriched with four yellow-gold spangles or paillons embedded in the enamel at 12 o’clock, 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock.

Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5231J-001, Yellow Gold Case and Cloisonné Enamel Dial

The dial center displays local time in the selected time zone at 12 o’clock by means of a ring-shaped hour hand – a design that belongs to the Patek Philippe World Time tradition. The local times in the 23 other time zones are read off on the 24-hour disk with day/night indication.

The caliber 240 HU self-winding movement with off-center minirotor in 22K gold may be admired in all its impeccable detail through the sapphire-crystal case back.

Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5231J-001, Yellow Gold Case and Cloisonné Enamel Dial

The new Ref. 5231J-001 in yellow gold joins Ref. 5131/1P-001, endowed with a platinum case and bracelet and a planisphere in cloisonné enamel depicting Earth as seen from the North Pole.

Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5231J-001, Yellow Gold Case and Cloisonné Enamel Dial

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5231J-001, Yellow Gold Case and Cloisonné Enamel Dial

Dial
Cloisonné enamel center: Europe, Africa, Americas, 4 yellow gold spangles
18K gold dial plate
Yellow gold circle-shaped hand for the hours and lozenge-shaped for the minutes

Case
Yellow gold
Diameter: 38.5 mm
Height: 10.23 mm
Water-resistant to 30 m
Sapphire crystal case back

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny chocolate brown
Fold-over clasp

Movement
Caliber 240 HU
Self-winding
World Time
24-hour and day/night indication for all 24 time zones
Diameter: 27.5 mm
Height: 3.88 mm
Number of parts: 239
Winding rotor: off-center minirotor in 22K gold
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations/hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 48 hours

Displays
Hour hand for local time
Minute hand
City disk
24-hour disk with day/night indication

Pusher
Time-zone selection

Previous models

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Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater, Ref. 5531R-012

Presented at Baselworld 2018, this new grand complication watch from Patek Philippe merges two iconic horological mechanisms – Minute repeaters and World Time.

Minute repeaters and chiming watches from the prestigious Geneva watch manufacture are renowned for their exceptional acoustic quality, the broad range of models and variations, and the interesting combinations with other complications. Patek Philippe’s World Time watches with cloisonné enameled dials are legendary as well; they rank among the most coveted timepieces at auctions worldwide.

In the Ref. 5531 World Time Minute Repeater, the engineers in Geneva merged these two complications for the first time in Patek Philippe’s history, and also in an unprecedented way: the time is always struck as indicated by the hour and minute hands for the time zone represented by the city aligned with the 12 o’clock position.

Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater, Ref. 5531R-012

All other minute repeaters with 24 time zones systematically strike home time even if they and their owners are far away from home. Conversely, Patek Philippe’s Ref. 5531 World Time Minute Repeater, chimes the time, accurately to the second, at its current location.

In the 1930s, Genevan master watchmaker Louis Cottier invented a remarkable system capable of displaying the time in all 24 time zones as referenced by the cities printed on the dial or engraved in the bezel.

In 1999, Patek Philippe fundamentally improved the functionality of its World Time watches by adding a patented mechanism. When moving from one time zone to another, this solutions allows all three time zone indications to be corrected with a single pusher. A single actuation adjusts the city disk, the 24-hour disk, and the center hour hand by one-hour steps without affecting the rate accuracy of the movement.

Now, the challenge was to join this mechanism with a minute repeater in a way that would best address the purpose of such a watch. The result is Patek Philippe’s new self-winding caliber R 27 HU movement with the World Time function and a minute repeater.

Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater, Ref. 5531R-012

The owners of a World Time Minute Repeater want more than to see the time in all of the world’s 24 time zones at a glance. They also want a highly legible reading of the time at their current location, on demand also acoustically with the incomparable sound of a Patek Philippe minute repeater. This goal has now been achieved by the manufacture for the first time in horological history.

Until now, minute repeaters with the World Time function were only able to chime home time as previously defined with the crown because the two complications operated independently from one another. An acoustic local time indication requires the World Time display with the rotatable city and 24- hour rings to be mechanically coupled with the chiming mechanism.

Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater, Ref. 5531R-012

The heart of a conventional minute repeater consists of three cams, referred to as snails: the hour snail with twelve steps, the quarter snail with four steps, and the minute snail that has four wings with 14 steps each. At any given point in time, these snails are in clearly defined positions.

The minute snail is firmly connected with the quarter snail; it has a pin which advances the 12-hour star with the hour snail by one increment after each full revolution. As soon as the minute repeater has been activated with the slide in the case flank, the steps of the different snails are consecutively sampled. Each passage from one step to another triggers a strike on a given gong.

If the chiming mechanism is activated at 5:37, the hour beak slides across five steps, causing the lower-pitched gong to be struck five times. Then, the quarter feeler glides across two steps and triggers two high-low double strikes on both gongs to indicate two quarter hours.

Finally, the minute feeler samples 7 steps of the third wing of the minute snail, triggering 7 strikes of the high-pitched gong: 7 minutes. The time is 5:37. All this takes place in tiny dimensions with millimeter-size parts of complex shapes that are less than a tenth of one millimeter thick and microscopically small pins as well as filigreed steel springs which are difficult to recognize as such by the naked eye.

In the caliber R 27 HU of the Ref. 5531 World Time Minute Repeater, this mechanism features fundamental changes with new designs and new components for which patent applications have been filed.

While the minute and quarter snails remain interconnected on the cannon pinion, the hour snail is now continuously driven by the time-zone wheel of the World Time mechanism rather than being controlled by the quarter snail. Here, the patented solution with the continuously rotating World Time function makes it possible to advance the 12-hour star with the hour snail to one-second accuracy. In Patek Philippe minute repeaters, the time window from one hour strike to the next is merely one second.

An example: Until 5:59:49, the acoustic time indication for 5:59 is 5 hour strikes, 3 double strikes for three quarter hours, and 14 minute strikes for a total of 25 strikes. Only one second later – at 5:59:50 – the watch strikes 6 o’clock (6 hour strikes). Once the 10 seconds have elapsed, the hands show exactly 6 o’clock when the last minute strike is completed. In a conventional minute repeater, this is easier to control because the hour snail is advanced by the quarter snail in jumping increments.

Given the continuously rotating hour snail in the World Time Minute Repeater, this is a much more complex process, but the patented Patek Philippe solution handles it very precisely and with great elegance. Once again, the manufacture delivers proof that it masters the technology of chiming watches and the integration of additional complications.

As soon as the minute repeater is actuated with the slide in the left-hand case flank, the mechanisms that execute the hour, quarter, and minute strikes briefly interact to sound the melody of time with the acoustic quality and rhythmic harmony that is characteristic of Patek Philippe strikework masterpieces.

Concurrently, the World Time mechanism is blocked so that for the duration of the time strike – while the delicate snails, racks, wheels, and levers are engaged – no time zone adjustments can take place. And as is the case with all Patek Philippe World Time watches, an adjustment of local time with the pusher at 2 o’clock does not have a negative influence on the rate of the movement.

A further patented modification distinguishes the Ref. 5531 World Time Minute Repeater from other Patek Philippe watches: its two gongs (one high-pitched, the other low-pitched) are attached to the caseband instead of to the plate of the movement.

Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater, Ref. 5531R-012

The self-winding caliber R 27 HU is comprised of 462 individual parts, which are crafted to the highest degree of precision, carefully finished in compliance with the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal and assembled with a steady hand.

This movement also fulfills the rate accuracy benchmark of -3 to +2 seconds per day as stipulated by the Patek Philippe Seal. Its 22K gold mini-rotor is fully recessed in the bridge plane. It borrowed its architecture from the basic R 27 caliber that was originally launched in 1989 on the occasion of the manufacture’s 150th anniversary.

With the legendary movement, Patek Philippe succeeded in reviving the wristwatch with a minute repeater. Thanks to its design, although highly elaborate, the caliber R 27 HU movement is remarkably thin: only 8.5 mm at its thickest point.

Despite its height of 11 mm, the silhouette of the 18K rose-gold case is exceptionally svelte and elegant. This is due to the generously skeletonized lugs, the sharply slanted bezel, and the shape of the glass. All three features make the watch appear less voluminous.

The hand-guilloched hobnail pattern, typical for Patek Philippe, choreographs the reflections of the light and underscores the elegance of the timepiece. The same motif adorns the slide in the left-hand case flank for actuating the minute repeater, assuring consistency of style. In contrast, the pathway of the slide is horizontally satin-finished.

The time-zone pusher at 2 o’clock is polished. The sapphire-crystal display back reveals the chamfered bridges with Geneva striping, the guilloched minirotor in 22K gold, and the gold-plated Calatrava cross cover on the centrifugal governor of the chiming mechanism. The watch is also available with an interchangeable solid 18K rose-gold case back.

Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater, Ref. 5531R-012

Made of 18K gold and German silver, the watch dial boasts the city disk, the 24-hour disk, and the artistically adorned center. The aesthetic beauty of this complex dial is paired with superb legibility.

The city disk is lacquered silvery white opaline; the place names are printed in black. It is to be noted that Central European Time is not represented by Paris as usual but rather by Geneva to emphasize the Lac Léman theme of the dial, as was already the case with the World Time watches introduced to salute the 175th anniversary of the manufacture in 2014.

On its day half (7 am to 6 pm) with the engraved sun symbol, the numerals of the rose-gold 24-hour disk are engraved and tinted brown. The night half (7 pm to 6 am) is brown, highlighting the rose gold glow of the engraved numerals and moon symbol.

A small work of art occupies the center of the dial, saluting the heritage of Patek Philippe World Time watches: an artistic cloisonné enamel depiction of the Lavaux winegrowing region – a UNESCO World Heritage site – with a lateen-rigged boat that has set sail.

The Ref. 5531 is the first and only Patek Philippe minute repeater decorated with cloisonné enamel. The 18K rose-gold hour and minute hands hover above the Lavaux landscape. Both are lapped and feature a sharp center ridge. The shape of the hour hand is reserved for World Time watches. Carefully pierced, it traces the silhouette of the “Southern Cross” constellation.

The watch is worn on a hand-stitched shiny chocolate brown alligator strap with large square scales, secured with an 18K rose-gold fold-over clasp.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater in Rose Gold, Ref. 5531R-012

Movement
Caliber R 27 HU
Ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement
Minute repeater with local-time strike. 24 time zones. Local time
Diameter: 32 mm (basic caliber: 30 mm; World Time module: 32 mm)
Height: 8.5 mm (basic caliber: 5.2 mm; World Time module: 3.3 mm)
Number of parts: 462
Number of jewels: 45
Power reserve: 48 hours
Winding rotor: 22K gold minirotor, uni-directionally winding
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz)
Balance: Gyromax®
Balance spring: Spiromax® (in Silinvar®)
Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Displays
With hands: Center hours and minutes
With disks: City disk with 24 place names and 24-hour disk

Functions
Two-position crown:
• Pushed home: To wind the watch
• Pulled out: To set the time
Pushers: Time-zone pusher at 2 o’clock (local time setting in 1-hour increments)
Minute repeater actuation: Slide in left-hand case flank

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
18K rose gold 5N
Sapphire-crystal display back and interchangeable solid-gold back
Case protected against moisture and dust, not water-resistant
Diameter 10 to 4 o’clock: 40,2 mm
Width 9 to 3 o’clock: 43.83 mm
Length across lugs: 47.35 mm
Height (crystal to lugs): 12.08 mm
Height (crystal to case back): 11.49 mm
Width between lugs: 21 mm

Dial
City disk in German silver, lacquered opaline silvery white with place names printed in black
24-hour disk in 18K rose gold 5N, day hours engraved and brown tinted – engraved sun symbol, night hours and moon symbol engraved in brown background
Center 18K gold, cloisonné enamel with polychrome depiction of Lavaux landscape on Lake Geneva
Hour and minute hands in 18K rose gold, lapped, hour hand with “Southern Cross” silhouette, pierced

Strap
Alligator leather with large square scales, hand-stitched, shiny chocolate brown, fold-over clasp in 18K rose gold

Patek Philippe Reference 5131/1 World Time with Platinum Case and Bracelet

Dressed in an elegant 39.5 mm diameter platinum case, the new version of the famous Patek Philippe World Time watch evokes dreams of traveling in style.

The center of its dial depicts the world in cloisonné enamel – for the first time from the perspective of the North Pole. It is an unusual view with depth and realism created by the artist with numerous coatings of different enamel paint colors.

Patek Philippe World Time Watch with Platinum Case and Bracelet, Reference 5131/1P-001

The new World Time watch is equipped with the self-winding Caliber 240 HU. The platinum case and bracelet pay homage to the Far North, cloaking it with a silvery sheen.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe World Time Watch with Platinum Case and Bracelet, Reference 5131/1P-001

Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement
Caliber 240 HU
22K gold off-center mini-rotor
Diameter: 27.5 mm
Height: 3.88 mm
Jewels: 33
Bridges: 8
Parts: 239
Power reserve: Min. 48 hours
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Patent: CH 595 653
Patent: CH 693 191

Functions
24-hour and day/night indication for the 24 time zones

Case
Platinum
Case diameter: 39.5 mm
Sapphire-crystal case back
Water resistant to 30 m

Dial
Cloisonné enamel center, North Pole
18K gold dial plate

Strap
Platinum bracelet with fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe Ladies’ World Time Reference 7130G-014 – New White-Gold Version with Gray-Blue Hand-Guilloched Dial Center

Patek Philippe presents the Ref. 7130 ladies’ World Time watch in a new white-gold version with a gray-blue hand-guilloched dial center.

Patek Philippe World Time Watch for Ladies, Reference 7130G-014

The delicate nuance, illuminated by the sparkle of diamonds, also comes to the fore on the city disk and the shiny peacock-blue alligator strap. The Patek Philippe 7130G-014 World Time Watch features a 36mm diameter case in 18-carat white gold. Its bezel is set with 62 diamonds.

Equipped with the famous Patek Philippe Caliber 240 HU self-winding movement, this ladies’ timepiece displays 24-hour and day/night indication for the 24 time zones in addition to basic timekeeping functions.

The Ref. 7130G-014 World Time model comes with a shiny peacock blue alligator leather strap.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe World Time Watch for Ladies, Reference 7130G-014

Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement
Caliber 240 HU
24-hour and day/night indication for the 24 time zones
22K gold off-center mini-rotor
Diameter: 27.5 mm
Height: 3.88 mm
Jewels: 33
Bridges: 8
Parts: 239
Power reserve: Min. 48 hours
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Patent: CH 595 653
Patent: CH 693 191

Functions
24-hour and day/night indication for the 24 time zones

Dial
Gray-blue dial, hand-guilloched, gold applied hour markers

Case
18K White gold
Case diameter: 36 mm
Bezel set with 62 diamonds (~0.82 ct)
Sapphire-crystal case back
Water resistant to 30 m

Strap
Alligator strap with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny peacock blue, prong buckle set with 27 diamonds (~0.21 ct)

Vacheron Constantin Overseas World Time

After unveiling the new version of its iconic Overseas collection at the SIHH 2016 haute horlogerie exhibition, prestigious Swiss watch manufacture Vacheron Constantin launches the Overseas world time.

Three interpretations – with a blue, silver-toned or brown dial – created in a spirit of casual elegance and practical convenience are more than ever dedicated to travellers wishing to keep track of the time around the world at a single glance.

The dial of the Overseas world time displays no less than 37 time zones, including those that are off-set by a half-hour or quarter-hour in relation to UTC time. The display comprises three parts.

 Vacheron Constantin Overseas World Time Stainless steel watch with blue dial

The centre features a “Lambert” projection map depicting the continents (enhanced by a sunburst satin-brushed finish) and the oceans (in a velvet finish), along with a translucent lacquered disc bearing the city names.

A third sapphire disc laid over the map provides day/night indications by means of subtly graded smoky tints, synchronised with the 24-hourdisc. Finally, a translucent lacquered velvet-finished outer ring serves to indicate the hours and minutes.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas World Time Stainless steel watch with silver-toned dial

An ideal travel companion, the Overseas world time model features a 43.5 mm-diameter case housing Caliber 2460 WT. This self-winding movement patented, developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and enjoys a 40-hourpower reserve.

Its 22K gold oscillating weight bears a wind rose – a universal symbol indicating the cardinal points for travellers – adorned with sandblasted, polished and finely grained finishing. All the indications powered by this mechanism are smoothly and easily adjusted via the crown.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas World Time Stainless steel watch with brown dial

The comfort and flexibility of this new model bearing the Hallmark of Geneva extend right the way through to its bracelet featuring an easy-fit system.

In addition, an ingenious interchangeable solution for these bracelets and their folding clasp means they can be switched and secured without any tools, while guaranteeing the same firm hold as on any traditional fixed bracelet.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Overseas World Time

References
7700V/110A-B129 – silver-toned dial
7700V/110A-B172 – blue dial
7700V/110A-B176 – brown dial
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepieces

Movement
Caliber 2460 WT
Mechanical self-winding
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
22K gold Overseas oscillating weight
36.6 mm (11’’’¼) diameter, 7.55 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
255 components
27 jewels

Indications
Hours and minutes
Central seconds
World time indication (37 cities)
Day-night indication

Case
Stainless steel
43.5 mm diameter, 12.6 mm thick
Soft iron casing ring ensuring anti-magnetic protection
Screwed-down crown
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 15 bar (approx. 150 metres)

Dial
3 superimposed dials:
• Map of the northern hemisphere with sunburst satin-finished continents & velvet-finished seas. Translucent silver toned/blue/brown lacquered disc with transferred city names
• Sapphire disc with transferred day/night and 24-hour indications (period between 6.30pm and 6.30am highlighted with a black background)
• Translucent silver-toned/blue/brown lacquered ring, opalin finished, transferred minute-track
18K gold hours and minutes hands highlighted with white luminescent material

Bracelet/Straps
Stainless steel bracelet, half Maltese cross-shaped polished and satin-brushed links
Delivered with a second black/blue/brown Mississippiensis alligator leather strap featuring a black nubuck lining with a micro-perforated effect, hand-stitched, large square scales
Delivered with a third strap in black/blue/brown rubber

Clasps
Stainless steel bracelet secured by a stainless steel triple blade folding clasp with push pieces and comfort adjustment system
Delivered with a second stainless steel triple blade folding clasp with push pieces and interchangeable system (patent pending) compatible with both additional straps

Patek Philippe World Time Watch Ref. 5230

The Patek Philippe World Time (Heure Universelle) watch is one of the most popular complicated wristwatches from the Geneva based watch manufacture since its inception in 1930s.

It continued to enthrall the watch connoisseurs with its many variations for more than 80 years. This year, at Baselworld watch fair, the manufacture presents the new World Time watch Ref. 5230, which is replacing all previous models.

Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5230G-001
Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5230G-001

It may seem simple to divide the planet into 24 time zones with 15 degrees of longitude each, but the political process behind it is convoluted. Some time zones have meanwhile been assigned different city names, for instance Dubai instead of Riyadh or Brisbane instead of Noumea, to mention only two.

Formerly, Moscow was located in the UTC+4 zone, but the Russian capital has now shifted one hour closer to Western Europe, “relocating” to UTC+3. From time to time, such changes make it necessary to modify the place names on the city scales of World Time watches. This is why Patek Philippe is discontinuing the production of its legacy World Time watches and launching the new Ref. 5230 with the updated, globally valid city names.

For Patek Philippe, this was also an ideal cue for reworking the appearance of the World Time watch, subtly retouching details to give it a truly contemporary and distinctive personality. As regards the Calatrava case of the new Ref. 5230 in white or rose gold 5N, changes were applied among others to the winglet-style lugs and the narrow, smoothly polished bezel that attractively sets the watch apart from its predecessors.

The hand shapes have been given a new look as well: Instead of the venerable ringed hour hand and Dauphine minute hand, the Ref. 5230 now sports a pierced hour hand with a silhouette that evokes the famous “Southern Cross” constellation, and the minute hand features a lozenge-shaped contour.

Both hands have a sharp center ridge between the carefully lapped, beveled flanks. Like the applied baton hour markers, they are crafted from 18K white or rose gold 5N to match the case.

Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5230R-001
Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5230R-001

Patek Philippe World Time watches decorated with polychrome cloisonné enamel maps on their dials are nothing short of legendary. The centers of other World Time watches feature hand-guilloched decors, like the black dial center of the new Ref. 5230 with its filigreed woven pattern.

The inspiration for this guilloched basket weave motif was taken from a precious pocket watch on display at the Patek Philippe Museum, except that its guilloché was originally coated with blue flinqué enamel. Patek Philippe still masters these nearly extinct handcrafts because the manufacture carefully preserves the required skills and know-how and assures that they are handed down from one generation to the next.

This also applies to the equipment. For example, the manually controlled rose engine needed to guilloche dials is almost one hundred years old. But it has been constantly serviced and works as reliably today as when it was first commissioned.

Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5230G-001

Patek Philippe World Time watches show all 24 world time zones at a glance. The local time is most prominently displayed for the time zone whose assigned city name is just above the small red arrow at 12 o’clock – in the classic manner with the hour and minute hands.

In the other 23 zones, the times are directly readable on the 24-hour ring that rotates counter clockwise within the city disk. The minutes indicated by the minute hand are the same for all time zones.

Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5230G-001

When traveling into a different time zone, the pusher in the case at 10 o’clock is pressed as often as needed to align the respective city name with the red arrow at 12 o’clock. Each time the pusher is pressed, the hour hand will advance by one hour while the city disk and the 24-hour ring will move by one increment in the counter clockwise direction.

During this process, the time-zone mechanism is uncoupled from the movement so that the accurate progression of the minute hand and the amplitude of the balance remain unaffected. Consequently, the time in all 24 zones is always displayed with the precision specified by the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal.

Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5230R-001

The precise rate of the watch and the user-friendliness of the World Time functions are guaranteed by the Patek Philippe manufacture caliber 240 HU – an ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement.

Despite its elaborate time-zone automatic winding mechanisms, it is a mere 3.88 mm thick, ideal for a slender, elegant World Time watch. Thanks to a design patented in 1977, the size of the winding rotor was massively reduced, allowing it to be fully integrated into the level of the movement bridges.

Patek Philippe World Time Caliber 240 HU

Even though it is so compact, the rotor can still generate ample winding power because it is crafted from solid 22K gold to increase its mass and torque. In the course of the years, the movement was continually optimized and paired with a World Time mechanism.

It is decidedly modern, as evidenced by its patented Spiromax® balance spring. It has a power reserve of at least 48 hours, and with a tolerance of -3 to +2 seconds per day, its rate accuracy exceeds all customary chronometer standards. The finissage of the watch fully complies with all requirements of the Patek Philippe Seal.

Patek Philippe World Time Caliber 240 HU

The bridges are chamfered and decorated with Geneva striping. The gold mini-rotor has the same striping alongside an engraving of the Calatrava cross, the manufacture’s emblem. The plate is hand-decorated with perlage, and the golden brass wheels are countersunk and have chamfered spokes.

These accents are complemented with the gold-filled movement engravings on the rhodiumed bridges and the sparkling highlights of 10 of the 35 ruby jewels. With the new Patek Philippe World Time watch Ref. 5230, the beautiful craftsmanship can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back.

Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5230G-001

The new Ref.5230 replaces all previous models of the manufacture’s World Time range and is available in two versions: as the Ref. 5230R in 18K rose gold and as the Ref. 5230G in 18K white gold.

Both have the same dial with a white city disk, a 24-hour ring with day/night color segments and sun/moon symbols, as well as a black center with an elaborate, hand-guilloched basket weave pattern.

The only differences are the applied hour markers and the hands, which are made of the same 18K gold as the case. Both versions are worn on a hand-stitched alligator strap with large square scales and a Calatrava fold-over clasp.

The strap is shiny black with an 18K white-gold clasp for the white gold model and shiny chocolate brown with an 18K rose-gold clasp for the rose-gold model.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe World Time Watch Ref. 5230

Featured Variants

  • Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5230G-001: 18K White gold case, Charcoal gray lacquered dial with hand-guilloching, Gold applied hour markers, Hand-stitched, shiny black alligator strap with square scales, Fold-over clasp
  • Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5230R-001: 18K Red gold case, Charcoal gray lacquered dial with hand-guilloching, Gold applied hour markers, Hand-stitched, shiny chocolate brown alligator strap with square scales, Fold-over clasp

Movement
Caliber 240 HU
Self-winding mechanical movement, display of 24 time zones, day/night indication
Diameter: 27.50 mm
Height: 3.88 mm
Number of parts: 239
Number of jewels: 33
Power reserve: Min. 48 hours
Centrifugal mass: 22K gold minirotor, unidirectionally winding
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Functions
Two-position crown:
– Pulled out: To set the time
– Pushed in: To wind the watch
Local time selector: Pusher at 10 o’clock
Synchronized adjustment of displays in one-hour steps for the hour hand and 1/24th counter clockwise increments for the city disk and the 24-hour ring

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Displays
Local time in hours and minutes
City disk with 24 place names
24-hour ring with day/night indication in colors and sun/moon symbols

Case
18K white or rose gold 5N
Sapphire-crystal case back
Water resistant to 30 meters (3 bar)
Case dimensions: Diameter: 38.50 mm
Length (across lugs): 46.91 mm
Width (9 to 3 o’clock incl. crown): 41.45 mm
Thickness (crystal to display back): 10.23 mm
Width between lugs: 20 mm

Dial
3-zone dial:
– City disk printed black
– 24-hour ring with day/night indication in color and sun/moon symbols (day: black numerals on silvery background; night: white numerals on black background)
– Center hand-guilloched with basket weave pattern

Hour hand with “Southern Cross” constellation motif, pierced, lapped flanks, in 18K white or rose gold 5N
Lozenge-shaped minute hand with lapped flanks, in 18K white or rose gold 5N
Applied baton hour markers in 18K white or rose gold 5N

Strap
Hand-stitched alligator with large square scales
Shiny black with Calatrava fold-over clasp in 18K white gold for the white-gold model Shiny chocolate brown with Calatrava fold-over clasp in 18K rose gold 5N for the rose-gold model

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle World Time

Swiss watch manufacture Vacheron Constantin unveils two new models of the Traditionnelle World Time in either 18K white or 18K 5N pink gold sublimated by a gold map in the center of their dial.

Equipped with the in house developed Calibre 2460 WT featuring patented mechanism, this traveller’s timepiece indicates 37 world’s time zones, including those offset from Universal Coordinated Time (UCT) by a half – or quarter hour.

The Traditionnelle World Time by Vacheron Constantin highlight a complication inextricably bound to the history of the Geneva-based manufacturer: world time. The latter is also interwoven with the theme of travel, since Jean-Marc Vacheron and his successors have constantly circled the globe delivering their exceptional timepieces.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle World Time watch in pink gold

A pioneer in the development and production of innovative watches, the Manufacture has displayed the same approach in being resolutely open to the world at large. Created in 1755 in Geneva and able to look back over 260 years of uninterrupted activity, Vacheron Constantin soon began exploring the four corners of the world.

It established a presence in the United States in 1832 and in China in 1845 – well before the International Meridian Conference held in Washington in 1884 which divided the world into 24 time zones, taking the Greenwich meridian as the longitude 0 point of reference. This new approach became indispensable in keeping step with the development of international travel and of railways.

In keeping with the same pioneering spirit, and driven by a wish to demonstrate that the multiple time-zone watch could be further perfected, the Maison introduced its first timepieces endowed with an international time mechanism in 1932. This movement was the work of a brilliant Geneva watchmaker, Louis Cottier, who had imagined and developed a mechanical movement indicating the 24 time zones from 1 to 24 by means of a disc rotating around the central dial and the outer bezel bearing the names of the world’s major cities.

This first Vacheron Constantin world time “Cottier system” watch enabled simultaneous read-off of the time in 31 cities around the world. It marked the start of a rich and longstanding relationship with the world time complication. In 1936, the Maison presented two new versions of its world time model with a 31-city dial and a 30-city dial. In 1937 and 1938, the Geneva-based Manufacture unveiled six table clocks with a mobile dial featuring 67 locations.

From the 1940s onwards, Vacheron Constantin attributed the reference number 4414 to a world time model with a 41-city dial and a day-night division of the mobile 24-hour disc. During the 1940s and 1950s, many famous customers were captivated by this useful and ingenious mechanism, and contributed to spreading the fame of this new complication.

In 1957, Vacheron Constantin wrote a new chapter in its history of world time watches by introducing the first world time wristwatch, reference 6213, ordered by an Egyptian dignitary.

Eager to make a major new contribution to the history of this complication, the Vacheron Constantin master-watchmakers and engineers have launched a mechanical movement capable of indicating not only the full time zones, but also the partial ones, so as to reflect the exact temporal reality in the 37 time zones.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle World Time watch in pink gold

A number of countries have indeed adopted a half-hour or quarter-hour difference from UTC, and the Calibre 2460 WT by Vacheron Constantin takes account of these specific characteristics. By way of example, it provides the correct time indication for Caracas, since Venezuela decided in 2007 to switch from a full time zone to a half time zone (GMT – 4:30).

The indication of the 37 time zones as proposed by the Maison in its Traditionnelle World Time is as complete as one could wish for.

The display consists of three dials: a sapphire dial with a day-night shading and the engraved and inked 24-hour indications (18:30 to 6:30 hours indications highlighted with an anthracite-colored background); a metal dial with painted cities names and a “Lambert projector” type gold map unveiling sun-brushed continents as well as sand-blasted seas; and a metal external ring with painted minute-track and applied gold hour-markers.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle World Time watch in white gold

Beating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and endowed with a 40-hour power reserve, mechanical self-winding Calibre 2460 WT drives displays of the hours, minutes, center seconds and world time. It enables simultaneous read-off of the time in all regions of the world, along with the day-night indication provided above the central world map crafted in gold.

All indications are adjusted via the crown, thus considerably simplifying the use of this highly technical watch. In light of these exclusive developments, the Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2460 WT – bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva – own a patent featuring the indication of all the world’s 37 zone increments, the day-night indication and the setting of all functions by the crown.

Despite its complex construction principles, the mechanical world time movement is extremely user friendly. The wearer chooses the reference time and places it opposite the black triangle at 6 o’clock. The time in the reference location can then be read off either by the hour hand, or by the 24-hour disc, while the time in the other 36 time zones is simultaneously readable. The cities shown in black represent the full time zones, while the cities in red indicate half-hour or quarter-hour zones.

Incorporating all the signature characteristics of the collection – a slender bezel, a knurled motif on the back of the timepiece, a sapphire crystal caseback closed with screws, and dauphine-shaped hands – the Traditionnelle World Time comes with a 42.5 mm diameter 18K white gold or 18K 5Npink gold case that is fitted with a Mississippiensis alligator leather strap secured by a gold folding clasp.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle World Time
References: 86060/000G-8982 & 86060/000R-8985
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepieces

Movement
Calibre 2460 WT
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
36.6 mm (11’’’¼) diameter, 7.55 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
255 components
27 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes
Center seconds
World time indication (37 cities)
Day-night indication

Case
18K white gold / 18K 5N pink gold
42.5 mm diameter, 11.62 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial
Superposition of 3 dials:
– Gold map with sun-brushed continents & sand-blasted seas. Metal disc with cities names (in black for plain hours and in red for half-hours and quarters)
– Sapphire disc with day-night indication and engraved & inked 24-hour indications (18:30 to 6:30 hours indications highlighted with an anthracite-colored background)
– Metal external ring with painted minute-track and 18K gold hour-markers

Strap
Black / brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp: 18K white gold / 18K 5N pink gold folding clasp, Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Montblanc Collection Villeret Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères Vasco da Gama

Crafted by the Montblanc Manufacture in Villeret, this exceptional complication watch honours the legacy of one of history’s greatest explorers: Vasco da Gama.

The manufacture’s voyage into uncharted territories of the watchmaking world continues with the Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères Vasco da Gama, a timepiece with the unprecedented combination of a cylindrical tourbillon and unique triple time zone indication.

Strictly limited to eighteen pieces, the Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères Vasco da Gama is a revolutionary wristwatch that pushes the boundaries of fine watchmaking with the utmost performance and spectacular artisanal beauty.

Montblanc Collection Villeret Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères Vasco da Gama

On 8 July 1497, Vasco da Gama set sail from Lisbon’s Restelo harbour with a small fleet of four ships. His flagship was the nau (carrack) Sao Gabriel with a crew of 60 men.

With this voyage and subsequent expeditions, Portugal fortified its predominance as a seafaring and trading nation. The success of Vasco da Gama’s expedition can ultimately be credited to its commander’s courage, thirst for action, willingness to take risks and, above all, his obsession with precision – a trait that is equally important in fine watchmaking today.

With this historic expedition, Vasco da Gama became the first European to establish a sustainable and safe way to travel from Europe to India and thus built a bridge between the Northern and Southern Hemisphere.

His feat connected people’s lives on both hemispheres for centuries, not only geographically but also commercially and culturally. The Montblanc Villeret Tourbillon Geosphères pays homage to this great explorer and likewise builds a bridge between the two hemispheres – on the stage of a wristwatch.

Montblanc Collection Villeret Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères Vasco da Gama

For many years, Montblanc and its Manufacture in Villeret have presented unique timepieces that express the comprehensive skills of the artisans at this time-honoured Manufacture.

Now the developers and watchmakers have once again employed all their expertise to create a wristwatch that is quite literally the ticking “flagship” of the new Montblanc Vasco da Gama watch collection. It was Vasco da Gama’s urge to discover new worlds and his unwavering courage that inspired Montblanc and spurred the Manufacture’s watchmakers to achieve superlative horological feats.

Far more than merely a complicated wristwatch, the Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères Vasco da Gama also performs an unconventional horological performance. The 47-mm-diameter case surrounds a three-dimensional dial that positively invites admiring scrutiny.

The 281 components that comprise hand-wound tourbillon Calibre MB M68.40 support numerous functions in an unprecedented combination: a triple time zone with local time is displayed in the form of hours and minutes; the continually running and independently adjustable display for the home time is presented on a three-dimensional twelve-hour compass rose at “6 o’clock”; and a pair of globes depict the World´s 24 time zones in the Northern and Southern Hemisphere, along with the passage of the days and nights.

Engraving and miniature painting on these two halved balls indicate in relief the outlines of the continents, their borders and the oceans that separate them. The passage of time accordingly becomes an impressive and daily recurring spectacle on the wearer’s wrist and recalls the sea route through the Earth’s two hemispheres that Vasco da Gama sailed in 1497.

The 18-karat gold dial is constructed in various parts and on different levels. Inspired by the twin distinctive globes, Montblanc’s designers relied on round shapes and rounded décor. The upper part of the dial is the stage for the tourbillon with its arcing, convex, polished tourbillon bridge.

Montblanc Collection Villeret Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères Vasco da Gama

The guilloché embellishment is crafted accordingly: manually executed guilloché, which adorns the components to the left and to the right of the tourbillon mechanism, is applied in a wavy décor inspired by Vasco da Gama’s voyage across the world’s oceans. The lower portion of the dial is the arena for the two globes and the home-time indication in the form of a three-dimensional compass rose. The hand that sweeps above this rose to indicate the hours is likewise styled in a “Fleur-de-Lys” shape.

The globes illustrate the passage of the days and nights in the Northern and Southern Hemisphere. Their elaborately crafted and finely detailed design also shows the circles of latitude and longitude. The two globes are motionlessly affixed to the movement, while two 24-hour worldtime indicator discs with the day/night rotate once per day around them.

The disc for the Northern Hemisphere turns clockwise; its counterpart for the Southern Hemisphere rotates anticlockwise. This arrangement enables the watch’s wearer to view, in the course of a single day, the sunlit halves of the two globes and the halves that are currently turned away from the sun.

Montblanc Collection Villeret Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères Vasco da Gama

With the aid of the meridians of longitude, the viewer can read the current hour in any desired part of the world by following the 24-hour world-time display on the two discs.

The continually running and independently adjustable display for the home time at “6 o’clock” on the dial of the Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères Vasco da Gama is inspired by the gigantic marble compass rose at the base of the Padrão dos Descobrimentos.

This monument, which commemorates Portuguese discoverers, stands in the civil parish of Belém in Lisbon. Comparable to a miniature sculpture, the watch’s compass rose is composed of four parts, each of which is entirely handmade and manually decorated.

Montblanc developed the 281-part hand-wound Calibre MB M68.40 featuring a 91-part tourbillon mechanism with a cylindrical hairspring which guarantees a power reserve of 48 hours. The balance’s frequency is 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour (2.5 hertz). Thanks to its 14.5-mm diameter, the balance’s moment of inertia is an 59 mgcm².

Montblanc Calibre MB M68.40

Few manufactures nowadays employ artisans with the necessary know-how and craftsmanly skills to fabricate their own balance wheels and hairsprings. Without these abilities, Montblanc could never have developed the cylindrical hairspring for the Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères Vasco da Gama.

Unlike their flat counterparts, cylindrical hairsprings were regarded as the summum bonum and installed only in the finest and costliest marine chronometers. Valuable ship’s chronometers were indispensable for seafarers because only with the aid of a clock that continued to show the correct time with great accuracy for a lengthy period of time were mariners able to determine their longitude on the high seas. Today too, a cylindrical hairspring continues to embody the utmost precision.

Montblanc Calibre MB M68.40

Like a conventional balance-spring, a cylindrical balance-spring is a concentrically wound strip of elastic metal; however instead of being wound side by side, at increasing distances from a common centre and all on the same plane, its individual turns are all of equal diameter and are wound one atop the other.

This eliminates the slight eccentricity of the centre of gravity, which has always been the Achille’s heel of conventional balance-spring. The challenges for Montblanc’s watchmakers were to miniaturize this type of hairspring and to install it in the tourbillon mechanism of a wristwatch.

The extremely high degree of in-house fabrication at the Montblanc Manufacture in Villeret, combined with the expertise accumulated here over many years, enabled these specialists to create more than merely a “simple” cylindrical hairspring, but to further equip it with two Phillips terminal curves.

The upward curvature at each end of the spiral contributes toward significantly improving the regularity of the hairspring’s “breathing,” thus further reducing the isochronism error. Montblanc accordingly achieved for this masterpiece a highly accurate rate.

Montblanc Collection Villeret Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères Vasco da Gama

Incomparable beauty distinguishes the styling of the doubly curved, three-dimensional, endless loop of the Tourbillon Bridge, beneath which the tourbillon’s large cage completes one rotation around its own axis every sixty seconds. For the Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères Vasco da Gama, Montblanc’s typical tourbillon bridge departs for the first time from its usual planar shape and acquires a convex form. It thus perfectly harmonizes with the two globes on the dial.

A master watchmaker requires more than seven days to entirely handcraft this distinctive tourbillon bridge and to give it an absolutely immaculate polished finish.

The indicators on the Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères Vasco da Gama can be set via the crown, the visible pusher at “8 o’clock” and the inset corrector on the case’s flank at “4 o’clock”. After pulling the crown outward, the user can set the local time and simultaneously adjust the worldtime display along the two globes’ 24-hour scales.

The corresponding buttons on the case are used to finely adjust the local time in the centre and the home time on the compass rose at “6 o’clock”, which runs along with the local time. Once all indicators have been correctly synchronized, a new local time in a different time zone can be set simply by pressing the push-piece at “8 o’clock”.

Operating this pusher advances only the hour-hand in single-hour increments; it does not affect the minutes, which are shown from the dial’s centre, nor does it alter the home time at “6 o’clock” or the two displays along the globes.

When the watch’s owner is travelling, he or she can conveniently read the local time by referring to the hour- and minute-hand in the centre, check the home time at “6 o’clock” and see the hour anywhere else in the world by referring to one of the two 24-hour discs around the globes.

Montblanc’s 16¾-line Calibre MB M68.40 is embedded in a 47-mm-diameter and 15.38-mm-height red gold case. The wristband is made of alligator-skin on both sides and is affixed between two pairs of rounded, elaborately hand-polished horns.

Montblanc Collection Villeret Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères Vasco da Gama

The names of 24 cities in the Northern Hemisphere and another two dozen metropolises in the Southern Hemisphere are engraved along with the matching time zones on the back of the case. The limitation numbers from “01/18” to “18/18”, the serial number and the reference numbers are engraved on the sapphire crystal in the back of the case.

Technical details

Model: Montblanc Collection Villeret Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères Vasco da Gama, Ident.111675

Movement
Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB M68.40
Hand-wound mechanical movement with one-minute tourbillon and cylindrical hairspring; triple time zone with local-time, home time and world-time indication
Dimensions: 16¾ lines (38.40 mm); height = 10.50 mm
No. of components: 281, including 91 for the tourbillon cage
No. of rubies: 18
Power reserve: Approx. 48 hours
Balance: Screw balance, diameter = 14.5 mm, moment of inertia = 59 mgcm²
Frequency: 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour (2.5 Hz)
Hairspring: Cylindrical hairspring with double Phillips terminal curves
Tourbillon: One-minute tourbillon with cylindrical hairspring
Main plate: Rhodium-plated nickel silver with circular graining on both sides
Bridges: Rhodium-plated nickel silver with côtes de Genève
Going-train: Gold-plated, faceted arms, diamond-polished surfaces

Watch displays
Local time: central hours and minutes in the centre
Home time: hour hand at “6 o’clock”
World-time: 24-hour time zones with day/night for the Southern and Northern Hemisphere
Habillage

Case
18-karat red gold (5N)
Crystal: Scratch-resistant, domed sapphire crystal with antireflective treatment on both surfaces
Back: 18-karat red gold (5N) back with 24 cities of both hemispheres engraved and with inset pane of sapphire crystal
Diameter = 47 mm, height = 15.38 mm
Water0tightness: 3 bar
Crown: 18-karat red gold (5N) crown with Montblanc’s emblem in mother -of-pearl
Pusher: Local-time pusher at “8 o’clock” and home-time corrector at “4 o’clock”

Dial
18-karat gold hands, hand-guilloché wave decoration around the tourbillon cage and “grainé” pattern on the lower part, tourbillon with cylindrical hairspring and double infinity bridge.
World-time indication on two discs with 24-hour time zones with day and night indication revolving around two fixed globes with traditional hand-painted peinture miniature for the oceans and engraving for the continents and the meridians showing the Northern Hemisphere on the left and the Southern Hemisphere on the right.
Home-time indication at “6 o’clock” above a three-dimensional handcrafted rose des vents subdial
18-karat red gold hour- and minute-hand in the centre, blued “Fleurde-Lys” home-time hand at “6 o’clock”

Strap
Hand-sewn black alligator-skin strap with alligator lining and with a folding clasp made of 18-karat red gold (5N)

Limitation
Limited edition of 18 pieces

Price
250,000 Euros including 19% VAT in Germany

Montblanc Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum

To be unveiled at SIHH 2015, the Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum is the  latest addition to a Montblanc’s watch collection that was actually introduced in 2014 to pay tribute to the legendary Montblanc Meisterstück Fountain Pen launched in 1924.

From 2015 onwards this collection will assume its future position among the Montblanc watch families as the Heritage Spirit Collection.

Embodying all the codes of fine watchmaking down to the last and smallest detail it bears the signature of traditional craftsmanship, timeless design and flawless functionality. Based on refined design codes, the collection includes timepieces with elegant, clear dials and refined cases expressing the DNA of fine watchmaking. Up to the grand complication, each model in the Montblanc Heritage Spirit collection makes its own statement, all timepieces being meticulously crafted.

Montblanc Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum watch

The Montblanc Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum interprets one of the most contemporary and useful complications -the world time function – in a new, innovative way. The earth is anchored at the core of this complication, that is named Orbis Terrarum, the Latin term for “globe”, “earth”, and “world”. This timepiece adopts a universal approach, telling the time in 24 time-zones all over the world, thanks to a manufacture complication developed in-house by the Montblanc master watchmakers.

The inspiration for this complication is the “Montres à eclipses”- watches that had multiple layers of dials that could change their functionality or aesthetics – were some of the most fascinating complications at the beginning of the 20th century. Always reaching towards the pinnacle of its craft, Montblanc has developed a strong expertise for working on complications by using multiple layers – two examples manifesting this expertise being the Metamorphosis II launched in 2014 or the Rieussec Rising Hours from 2012.

The complication of the Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum is simple to read and easy to use, displaying the time in different parts of the world in a practical and intuitive way. The dial is constructed in a multi-layer way. At its centre, the main sapphire crystal dial displays the continents as viewed from the North Pole. The continents are cut out from the rest of the disc that displays the oceans in a light blue colour.

Montblanc Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum watch steel version

Under the main dial is a disc showing day and night, which rotates with the movement of the 24-hour mechanism. On the outside of the dial, there is a disc with the names of 24 cities, encircled by their respective time zones.

The disc with the cities can rotate separately from the 24 hours disc with the aid of the pusher, located at 8 o’clock. To adjust the time the desired “home” city only needs to be positioned with its corresponding time at 6 o’clock. The “local time” is displayed by the central hour and minute hands, which are adjusted with the winding crown.

When travelling, the Montblanc Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum’s worldtime complication indicates what time it is at the destination. The hour and minute hands to give the new “local time” just need to be adjusted, while the time in the country of origin remains displayed at 6 o’clock.

Due to the innovative multi-layer dial construction, the times of all 24 time-zones can be indicated. A day/night disc shows at a glance where it is day or night on the planet. The rotation of this disc changes the colours of the continents as seen on the dial, alternately from light (day) to dark (night). This innovative functional principle is rare to find in fine watchmaking.

The watch is driven by a self-winding mechanical movement, calibre MB29.20, beating at the frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 hertz) with the exclusive complication developed in-house by Montblanc.

Montblanc Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum watch red gold version

The Montblanc Heritage Spirit “Orbis Terrarum” features a 41mm case with refined and straight lines, a narrow convexly round bezel, antireflective cambered sapphire crystal, vertically descending flanks with horizontal satin finishing that beautifully contrast with the polished case, finely arcing horns, polished faceted hands in the classical dauphine shape, a crown with the Montblanc emblem in raised relief against a sand-blasted background, and a large-scale black alligator wristband with a triple folding clasp, for maximum comfort.

Technical details

Model: Montblanc Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum, Ident. 112308

Movement
Calibre MB 29.20
Mechanical movement with automatic winding mechanism
No. of rubies: 26
Power reserve: Approx. 42 hours
Balance: Flat hoop
Frequency: 28,800 A/h (4 Hz)
Hairspring: Flat

Displays
Hours and minutes from the centre
World-time indication with 24 hour time zones and integrated day & night display

Case
Stainless steel, polished bezel, horizontal satin finishing on middle piece
World-time pusher at “8 o’clock”
Crystal: Scratch-resistant, domed and antireflective sapphire crystal
Back: Stainless steel back with inset pane of sapphire crystal
Diameter = 41 mm ; Height = 12 mm
Water tightness: 3 bar
Crown: Stainless steel crown with Montblanc emblem in raised relief

Dial
Sapphire crystal dial showing the Northern Hemisphere and 24 cities of the
24 hour time zones, 24 hour-disc with day and night display that turns under the sapphire crystal dial, rhodium-plated polished and satinated dauphine hands

Wristband
Black alligator-skin strap with triple folding clasp
Also available with a stainless steel bracelet or in a 18 K red gold version

Patek Philippe World Time Moon Ref. 5575 and Ref. 7175 – 175th Anniversary Edition

The prestigious Geneva watch manufacture on its 175th anniversary (1839 – 2014) celebrates the art of horology with special edition commemorative timepieces including the limited edition World Time Moon  featuring an innovative moon-phase display.

Ordinarily, Patek Philippe World Time watches feature a guilloché center or, particularly prized at auctions, a polychrome cloisonné enamel motif. With the World Time Moon, this is different for the first time, because the entire center is now occupied by a large-format moon-phase display.

Never before have the changing faces of the moon been reproduced by a Patek Philippe watch so realistically and with such prominence. Hence, this commemorative timepiece combines two complications that stand for tradition and innovation. The World Time Moon will be produced in a limited edition of 1750 pieces, of which 450 as the diamond-adorned Ref. 7175 ladies’ version and 1300 in the somewhat larger Ref. 5575 men’s version.

Patek Philippe World Time Moon Ref. 5575 and Ref. 7175 - 175th Anniversary Edition

The Patek Philippe World Time watch was first launched in the 1930s and patented in 1959. With two rotatable scale disks at the periphery of the dial, it indicates the time in all of the world’s 24 time zones at a glance.

The organization of the world in 24 time zones, each spanning 15 degrees of geographical longitude, dates back to the International Meridian Conference in 1884 and since then has seen only minor changes. Thus, the outer scale lists 24 place names that each represent an entire time zone, while the inner scale displays the hours that correspond to the time of day in each zone.

Patek Philippe World Time Moon Ref. 5575 and Ref. 7175 - 175th Anniversary Edition

The minute indication is identical for all zones. The hands of Patek Philippe World Time watches display the local time in the time zone represented by the city which stands at 12 o’clock. The cities on the right are located farther east, those on the left farther west.

This principle also applies to the current models with optimized time-zone mechanism that was patented in 1999. It allows all adjustments to be performed with a single pusher at 10 o’clock in the case flank. The mechanism is separated from the movement when corrections are made, so the steady oscillation of the balance and the accuracy of the minute hand’s position remain unaffected.

Each time the pusher is pressed, three things happen simultaneously: the uniquely designed hour hand, which evokes the Southern Cross constellation, advances by one hour, while the city and 24-hour disks move counter clockwise by one time zone. If the hands previously indicated 10:15 as the local time for London, they now display 11:15 for Geneva.

Patek Philippe World Time Moon Ref. 5575 and Ref. 7175 - 175th Anniversary Edition

Conventional moon-phase displays are based on a characteristically shaped dial aperture. It exposes part of a disk with two round stylized moons that rotates about its own axis once in the course of two lunar months. Accordingly, the changing face of the earth’s satellite is comparatively small.

To achieve a significantly larger and more attractive depiction, Patek Philippe developed a mechanism for the World Time Moon that showcases the moonphase display in the center of the dial. It is composed of two extremely thin, superposed glass disks.

The bottom one is decorated with the nocturnal sky using an innovative metallization process. It shows a richly detailed and very large rendering of the moon. Several craters, so called lunar maria, are faithfully reproduced with fine gray-white gradations.

This disk performs one complete revolution every 29.53 days. The upper half of the second stationary disk just above it is metallized with a precisely calculated, heart-shaped contour. This mask exposes only the visible portion of the moon on the rotating disk and covers the area that in reality is darkened by the earth’s shadow.

The new caliber 240 HU LU was developed explicitly to achieve a harmonious fusion of the world’s 24 time zones with the lunar cycle. It is based on an ultra-thin self-winding movement powered by a 22K gold minirotor totally recessed in the plate.

Composed of 270 individual, immaculately finished parts, it fulfils all of the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal. This also applies to its high rate accuracy. Its maximum daily deviation amounts to between -3 and +2 seconds, perceptibly better than watches with official chronometer certificates.

Patek Philippe World Time Moon Ref. 5575 Men's Watch 175th Anniversary Edition

From the outside, the World Time Moon is timelessly elegant. Its round case, inspired by the Calatrava style, is made of 18K white gold for men and 18K rose gold for women. Both models have a solid-gold case back with the engraving “PATEK PHILIPPE GENEVE 175e Anniversaire 1839 – 2014”.

On the dial side, Patek Philippe yet again succeeded in creating an eminently legible display of all 24 time zones with emphasis on local time, combined with an unusually large, richly detailed moon-phase display on dials with a diameter of about 35 mm.

Patek Philippe World Time Moon Ladies watch Ref. 7175 - 175th Anniversary Edition

The local time scale, the 24-hour dial, and the moon phases are prominently distinguished by their colors. In contrast to the World Time watches in the current collection, the World Time Moon anniversary model features an innovative local time hour hand. It recalls the Southern Cross constellation referred to in many seafarer novels and rounds out the astronomical trio – earth, moon, and stars – in an imaginative way.

Another special facet of this limited anniversary edition: as a tribute to Patek Philippe’s notable heritage, Central European Time is represented by the city of Geneva instead of Paris.

The men’s model, with a diameter of 39.8 mm, is slightly larger than the 38-mm ladies’ version. The latter features a bezel that sparkles with the fire of 70 flawless Top Wesselton brilliant-cut diamonds (~ 0.6 ct).

The hand-stitched alligator strap with large square scales is secured with a fold-over clasp in gold to match the case, with the engraving “PATEK PHILIPPE 1839 – 2014”.  The strap is shiny black for the men’s model and shiny beige for ladies.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe World Time Moon Men’s Watch Ref. 5575

Movement
Caliber 240 HU LU
Ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement, world time zone mechanism, and extra-large moon-phase display
Dimensions:   27.5 mm
Height:   5.2 mm
Number of parts:   270
Number of jewels:   35
Power reserve:  Min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
Centrifugal mass:   22K gold minirotor, unidirectionally winding
Balance:  Gyromax®
Frequency:  21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz)
Balance spring:  Spiromax®
Balance spring stud:   Adjustable

Functions
2-position crown
– Pushed in: To wind the watch
– Pulled out: To set the local time

Displays
With hands:
• Hours for local time (city at 12 o’clock)
• Minutes
With disks:
• Moon phases
• World time in 24 hours
• Place names for the 24 world time zones

Pusher:  At 10 o’clock, to change local time in 1-hour steps
Correction push piece:  At 2 o’clock: Correction of moon phase
Hallmark:   Patek Philippe Seal

Case
Round, 18K white gold, cambered sapphire crystal, solid-gold back  with engraving “PATEK PHILIPPE GENEVE 175e Anniversaire 1839 – 2014“
Water-resistant to 30 m
Continued 5
Case dimensions:  Diameter: 39.8 mm
Length (across lugs): 45.25 mm
Overall height: 9.81 mm
Height (crystal to back): 9.5 mm
Width between lugs: 21 mm

Dial
Multi-part, with two peripheral rotating scales and large moonphase display in the center
World time zone scale, black metal, with white place names
24-hour dial, metal, with day/night coloration
Moon-phase display with two superposed, metallized glass disks
Local time hour hand as a stylized “Southern Cross” in 18K white gold
Leaf-shaped minute hand in 18K white gold

Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with large square scales, shiny black, Calatrava fold-over clasp in 18K white gold, with engraving “PATEK PHILIPPE 1839 – 2014“

Edition
Limited to 1300 watches

Model: Patek Philippe World Time Moon Ladies’ Watch, Ref. 7175

Movement
Caliber 240 HU LU
Ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement, world time zone  mechanism, and extra-large moon-phase display
Dimensions:   27.5 mm
Height:   5.2 mm
Number of parts:   270
Number of jewels:   35
Power reserve:  Min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
Centrifugal mass:   22K gold minirotor, unidirectionally winding
Balance:  Gyromax®
Frequency:  21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz)
Balance spring:  Spiromax®
Balance spring stud:   Adjustable

Functions
2-position crown:
– Pushed in: To wind the watch
– Pulled out: To set the local time

Displays
With hands:
• Hours for local time (city at 12 o’clock)
• Minutes
With disks:
• Moon phases
• World time in 24 hours
• Place names for the 24 world time zones

Pushers:  At 10 o’clock, to change local time in 1-hour steps
Correction push piece:  At 2 o’clock: Correction of moon phase
Hallmark:   Patek Philippe Seal

Case
Round, 18K rose gold, cambered sapphire crystal, bezel with 70flawless Top Wesselton brilliant-cut diamonds (~ 0.6 ct), solid gold back  with engraving “PATEK PHILIPPE GENEVE 175eAnniversaire 1839 – 2014“
Water-resistant to 30 m
Continued 7
Case dimensions:  Diameter: 38 mm
Length (across lugs): 44 mm
Overall height: 10.1 mm
Height (crystal to back): 9.36 mm
Width between lugs: 19 mm

Dial
Multi-part, with two peripheral rotating scales and large moonphase display in the center
World time zone scale, silvery white metal with beige place names
24-hour dial, metal, with day/night coloration
Moon-phase display with two superposed, metallized glass disks
Local time hour hand as a stylized “Southern Cross” in 18K rose gold
Leaf-shaped minute hand in 18K rose gold

Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with large square scales, shiny beige, Calatrava fold-over clasp in 18K rose gold, with engraving “PATEK PHILIPPE 1839 – 2014“

Edition
Limited to 450 watches

Vacheron Constantin Collection Excellence Platine – Traditionnelle Day-Date and Power Reserve and Traditionnelle World Time

Celebrating a pure, rare and eternal material, the Collection Excellence Platine by Vacheron Constantin welcomes two new models that will delight all those with a taste for pure, understated dials, as well as keen long-distance travellers. This noble line of preciously attired watches highlights the full extent of the expertise cultivated by the Geneva-based Manufacture in the creation of mechanical movements ranging from the simplest to the most complex.

Designed, developed and produced by the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture, the two calibres powering the Traditionnelle Day-Date and Power Reserve and Traditionnelle World Time watches thereby consolidate the brand’s range of useful complications.

The Collection Excellence Platine reinforces the unique character of the watches that have joined the ranks of this prestigious range since its creation in 2006. In developing this exclusive line of timepieces, Vacheron Constantin wished to highlight the distinctive qualities of platinum.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Day-Date and Power Reserve Collection Excellence Platine
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Day-Date and Power Reserve Collection Excellence Platine

The material was first used by the Geneva-based Manufacture in 1820 and has since been featured in a number of its creations. 95% pure as against 75% for 18-carat gold, platinum is sourced from an extremely limited number of deposits worldwide. Its purity and its rarity make it the ultimate material for the most exclusive timepieces.

Its density and its weight explain its resistance that is far higher than that of other metals. The imperishable, high-performance properties of platinum render it synonymous with durability and ensure its enduring appeal among an elite circle of connoisseurs and collectors.

Through its elitist identity codes, the Collection Excellence Platine by Vacheron Constantin pays a marked tribute to the most prestigious of all metals. In addition to a case and crown in 950 platinum, each model belonging to this collection features a dial with a sandblasted finish bearing the discreet inscription “PT950” between 4 and 5 o’clock.

Secured by a 950 platinum folding clasp, the strap in dark blue alligator leather is graced with a saddle-stitched finish, hand-sewn with silk and 950 platinum thread lending an ultimate touch of perfection.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle World Time Collection Excellence Platine
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle World Time Collection Excellence Platine

Each model is produced in individually numbered series never exceeding 150. The latest additions to this collection, the Traditionnelle Date Day and Power Reserve and the Traditionnelle World Time, are no exception to the rule, since only 100 of each will be released. They naturally carry the same external tokens of distinction as the preceding models: a case, crown, dial and buckle in 950 platinum.

Both stemming from the Traditionnelle collection, the two models equipped with useful complications draw upon the constantly enriched watchmaking heritage of Vacheron Constantin, while further strengthening a “medium complication” segment in which the Manufacture excels as much as in that of extremely sophisticated horological complications.

The timeless classicism of the two Traditionnelle Date-Day and Power Reserve and Traditionnelle World Time models confirm their kinship with the horological traditions of the collection from which they have arisen. Inspired by the aesthetic codes that have distinguished some of Vacheron Constantin’ s most beautiful historical models, this collection remains true to the fundamental values appreciated by genuine connoisseurs.

A slender bezel, a knurled motif around the screw-down back fitted with a sapphire crystal, facetted trapeze-shaped hour-markers – double at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock – “dauphine” hands, a dial in various tones and a case middle with straight, clear-cut lines: the signature features of the Traditionnelle collection serve as a reminder that tradition and modernity rub shoulders quite naturally at Vacheron Constantin.

Endowed with these clearly displayed qualities, Traditionnelle spans a watchmaking universe ranging from the simplest to the most complicated: it is indeed a perfect embodiment of the inventive nature of Vacheron Constantin and a tribute to two and a half centuries of uninterrupted history.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Day-Date and Power Reserve Collection Excellence Platine

The Traditionnelle Day-Date and Power Reserve model now joining the Collection Excellence Platine is entirely in keeping with the aesthetic codes of all the models that have found their place in this prestigious collection since 2006. In addition to a 39.5 mm-diameter case and crown in 950 platinum, this timepiece features an uncluttered 950 platinum dial with a finely grained sandblasted finish, discreetly bearing the inscription “Pt 950” between 4 and 5 o’clock.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Day-Date and Power Reserve Collection Excellence Platine

The face provides a central display of the hours, minutes and seconds, as well as providing pointer-type indications of the power reserve, the date and the day of the week. The strap in dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather is hand-sewn with silk and 950 platinum thread. This combination is made possible by the remarkable malleability of this precious metal, of which a single gram can be drawn out to form an almost two kilometre-long thread. The folding clasp is also made of 950 platinum.

At its heart beats a mechanical self-winding movement developed and produced by Vacheron Constantin – Calibre 2475 – graced with the kind of meticulous finishes that are the unmistakable signature of Fine Watchmaking: Côtes de Genève, bevelled and rhodiumed bridges and a circular grained mainplate. The watch and movement bear the Hallmark of Geneva, an independent certification of origin, of craftsmanship, of durability and of expertise.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Day-Date and Power Reserve Collection Excellence Platine, Reference: 85290/000P-9947
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Movement
Caliber 2475 SC
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
26.2 mm (11’’’½) diameter
5.7 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
264 components
27 jewels

Indications
Hours
Minutes
Day of the week
Date
Power reserve

Case
Platinum 950
39.5 mm diameter, 10.65 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial
Platinum 950, sand-blasted finishing
“Pt950” hallmark between 4 and 5 o’clock
Black painted indications

Strap
Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched with platinum 950 and silk, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp: Triple-blade folding clasp in platinum 950, Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Edition
Limited edition of 100 individually numbered pieces
“N°X/100” engraved on caseback

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle World Time Collection Excellence Platine

The Traditionnelle World Time watch embodies a complication inextricably bound up with the history of the Geneva-based Manufacture, since it was in 1932 that Vachercon Constantin made its first timepiece equipped with a world time mechanism enabling simultaneous reading of the time in 31 cities of the world. Ever since, it has consistently perfected this useful and ingenious mechanism also referred to as “universal” or “international” time.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle World Time Collection Excellence Platine

This mechanical self-winding movement developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin is distinguished by its ability to drive indications corresponding to the world’s 37 time zones – including those offset from Universal Coordinated Time (UCT) by a half-hour or a quarter hour – complete with a day/night display via a central globe, as well as by its simplified crown adjustment of all indications. A patent for this exclusive association has been duly filed by the Manufacture.

The display consists of three parts: a sapphire dial with day/night shading as well as an engraved and inked 24-hour indication; a 950 platinum dial with a “Lambert projector” type map; and a metal chapter ring. All indications are easily adjusted via the crown, thereby considerably simplifying the use of this highly technical watch.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle World Time Collection Excellence Platine
Reference: 86060/000P-9979
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Movement
Caliber 2460 WT
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
36.60 mm (11’’’ ¼ ) diameter
7.55 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
255 components
27 jewels

Indications
Hours
Minutes
Center seconds
World time indication with day/night zone (37 time zones)

Case
Platinum 950
42.50 mm diameter, 11.62 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial
Made of 3 parts:
– 1 disc in sapphire with gradient day/night indication in the center, 24-hour indication inked / engraved
– 1 disc in platinum 950 with hand-polished embossed “Lambert Projection” type map and transferred cities names
– 1 external ring in platinum 950 with transferred minute track and 18K gold applied hour-makers. “Pt950” hallmark between 4 and 5 o’clock

Strap
Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched with platinum 950 and silk, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp: Triple-blade folding clasp in platinum 950, Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Edition
Limited edition of 100 pieces
“N°X/100” engraved on caseback

Montblanc TimeWalker World-Time Sinosphere Limited Edition

The Montblanc TimeWalker World-Time Sinosphere is based on the Hemisphere world-time watch, which was launched earlier this year, depicts all 24 time zones at a glance, and is available in two models – one for the Northern and one for the Southern Hemisphere.

For the TimeWalker World-Time Sinosphere the Northern Hemisphere model – on which the names of places and cities in the Northern Hemisphere represent the world’s 24 time zones – was naturally chosen as basis. Exclusively on the World-Time Sinosphere, the UTC +8* time zone is not signified by Beijing or Hong Kong (as on most other world-time watches), but by the word “CHINA” clearly printed in red.

The specialness of this new timepiece is also evident in the design of its dial, the centre of which is occupied by a gleaming red gold appliqué depicting a map of China surrounded by the pale grey contours of its neighbouring land masses.

Rotating around the Middle Kingdom is the entire world, or rather the world-time ring with its 24-hour scale which, using red for nighttime hours and grey for daytime hours, shows the hour and the time of day or night in whichever zone is oppositely positioned along the dial’s periphery.

Montblanc TimeWalker World-Time Sinosphere Limited Edition watch

A red gold plated sword-shaped hour-hand and minute-hand, each with luminous coating, sweep above this scene, as does a slim counterpoised second-hand. This trio shows the time in the wearer’s current zone by sweeping past Arabic numerals and indexes coated with red gold and applied along the dial’s periphery. To further express the exclusiveness of this special model, which is made in a limited series of 88 timepieces, the words “CHINA EDITION” appear in golden micro-print at “7 o’clock”.

The dial is surrounded by a 42-mm bicolour case with a middle piece made of stainless steel and a bezel of 18 karat 5N red gold. Likewise made of 5N red gold, the finely fluted crown is inset with Montblanc’s emblem, which for decades has already adorned the writing instruments of countless heads of state.

This watch is worn either on a brown alligator-leather strap with large reptilian scales and a stainless steel pin buckle or on a bicolour metal bracelet made of stainless steel with 18 karat red gold caps and secured by a triple-folding clasp.

A sapphire crystal in the back reveals the winding rotor and the movement, which boast the quality characteristics of Swiss watchmaking tradition. Self-winding mechanical Calibre MB 4810/410 shows the hours, minutes and seconds in the selected local zone, as well as the times in all 24 of the globe’s time zones.

The date appears in a window at “6 o’clock”, is coupled with the dial-train, and refers to the local time shown by the hands. After celebrating its world premiere at Watches & Wonders 2013 in Hong Kong, this model will be available starting in January 2014.

Montblanc TimeWalker World-Time Sinosphere Limited Edition

With regard to the rules governing time zones, China is one of the most interesting nations and relies on a globally unique system. Russia, which extends 9,000 km from east to west, spans ten time zones (UTC +3* to UTC +12). The USA, which stretches 4,500 km from east to west, is divided into four time zones (UTC -5 to UTC -8).

But despite the facts that China extends 4,200 km from its easternmost to its westernmost province and spans five different time zones, the whole country uses China Standard Time CST (UTC +8). This means that people who live in eastern China tend to rise too late in the morning and that their countrymen in western China must awaken several hours earlier than is customary – along with all the advantages and disadvantages when their clocks tell them to quit work each evening.

Unified timekeeping is one factor that has contributed to the speedy and powerful upswing that China has undergone during the past thirty years. To enclose a huge territory and 1.3 billion residents in just one time zone also means that everything functions, and everyone works and communicates, in a unified time system. Attendance times are uniformly valid nationwide in offices and factories, as well as in agriculture and transportation.

When someone phones from east to west in the morning, he always encounters open ears – even if day has long since dawned in the east and night still reigns in the west. With China Standard Time, this export-oriented economic power also offers its foreign trade partners a decisive advantage when they contact Chinese partners: a foreigner needs only to bear in mind the time difference between China and his location, and he needn’t consider any time differences within China. It’s a small but important part in the mosaic of China’s economic success.

Universal Time Coordinated is the basis for officially valid time worldwide. UTC is measured from the prime meridian, which starts at the North Pole, passes through the observatory in Greenwich (England), and ends at the South Pole. UTC ±0 prevails throughout England.

Time zones located to the east between Greenwich and the 180° meridian are designated as UTC +X, where X is the time difference in hours between Greenwich and each easterly zone. Zones situated to the west between Greenwich and the 180° meridian are similarly designated UTC -X. For example: Beijing is eight hours ahead of UTC ±0 and lies in the UTC +8 time zone; Los Angeles is seven hours behind UTC ±0 and is situated in the UTC -7 time zone.

UTC is always the same and doesn’t distinguish between summer and winter time. Its passage is measured by caesium clocks, which err from perfect timekeeping by only one second every twenty million years.

Introduced at Watches & Wonders 2013 in Hong Kong, the Montblanc TimeWalker World-Time Sinosphere time-zone watch is available in a limited edition of 88 timepieces.

Technical details

Model: Montblanc TimeWalker World-Time Sinosphere – Limited Edition (Ident. 110323/ Ident. 110324)

Movement
Calibre MB 4810/410
Movement Type: Mechanical movement with automatic winding
Number of Jewels: 21
Power Reserve: Approx. 42 hrs.
Frequency: 28.800/h (4 Hz)
Hairspring: flat
Indications: Central hours, minutes and seconds, world time indication with 24 hour time zones and 24 hour hour-disc, date window at 6 o‘clock

Case and dial
Material: Stainless steel, 18 K red gold bezel, domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating
Dimensions: Ø 42 mm; height: 12,05 mm
Water Resistance: to 3 bar (30 m)
Dial: Silver-coloured dial with red gold-plated numerals and indexes, China highlighted in center of the dial and on the peripherical ring and «China Edition» secret writing at 7 o’clock, red gold-plated luminescent hands, flange with 24 city names of the northern hemisphere
Central 24 hour hour-disc with day/night indication
Crown: 18 K red gold with Montblanc emblem

Strap/Bracelet
Model 110323 – Brown alligator-leather strap with stainless steel pin buckle
Model 110324 – Stainless steel strap with 18 k red gold caps and stainless steel triple-folding clasp

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time for Only Watch 2013

The Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time is a unique model specially created for the Only Watch 2013 event and representing a combined expression of the exclusive skills cultivated by Vacheron Constantin.

The dial paying tribute to three artistic crafts – engraving, enamelling and gem-setting – illustrates the aesthetic mastery dear to the Manufacture, while the World Time complication embodies the technical excellence and open-minded spirit that have been guiding the brand for over 250 years.

Inseparably bound up with the Vacheron Constantin heritage, the World Time complication had made a major comeback in the collection of the Manufacture in 2011 with the Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time model driven by a new in-house made movement, Calibre 2460 WT.

It now returns as the Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time “Only Watch” model available in a 42.5 mm-diameter 950 platinum case featuring an exhibition case and water-resistant to 3 bar (around 30 metres). It is supplied with a saddle-stitched black alligator leather strap secured by a folding clasp.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time for Only Watch 2013

The back of this timepiece is engraved with the inscription “Only Watch 2013, Pièce unique”, commemorating the Only Watch event organised by the Monaco Association against Muscular Dystrophy, a charity with which Vacheron Constantin is once again privileged to associate this year.

Building on its historical expertise in the realm of Artistic Crafts, Vacheron Constantin has called upon the most sophisticated current talents to give this timepiece a face combining ultimate artistic precision with contemporary elegance. The central gold associates a trilogy of excellence in the techniques of engraving, enamelling and gem-setting.

The hand-engraved seas and the countries are coated with translucent and opalescent enamel, while the GMT reference city, Monaco, is immortalised by a round-cut diamond that is extremely difficult to set because of the extremely thin plate. Independent enamelling artist Anita Porchet, who is well known to collectors and connoisseurs of horological works of art, contributed her peerless skill to the successful crafting of this timepiece.

The World Time watch embodies the openness to the world characterising the Manufacture founded in 1755. For over 250 years, Vacheron Constantin has been crossing borders to spread the news of its precious timepieces. It has been active in the United States since 1832 and in China since 1845, well before the International Meridian Conference held in Washington in 1884 and which divided the world into 24 time zones while defining the zero meridian.

In 1932, Vacheron Constantin introduced an original watch featuring a world time mechanism. It marked the first chapter in a long story of developments of the world time complication, sometimes also referred to as universal time or international time.

Eager to make a major new contribution to the history of this complication, the master-watchmakers and engineers of the Manufacture sought to create a mechanical movement capable not only of indicating full time zones, but also partial time zones, so as to reflect the precise temporal reality prevailing in 37 different zones of the world. This is because a number of countries have adopted a time that is a half-hour or a quarter-hour out of sync with UTC (Universal Coordinated Time).

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time for Only Watch 2013

Calibre 2460 WT was specially developed and produced by Vacheron Constantin to take account of these special cases. This timepiece bears the prestigious Poinçon de Genève (Hallmark of Geneva), confirming the status of the Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time as a truly precious accessory for today’s keen travellers.

While complex in terms of its technical design, this mechanical movement beating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour) and endowed with an approximately 40-hour time zone, remains pleasantly simple to use, even through the 38 time-zone indication is as complete as they come.

All adjustments are made via the crown of the watch – an exceptional feature on a multiple time-zone watch. The owner of the timepiece chooses the reference city by placing it facing the red triangle at 6 o’clock. The time in the reference location may thus be read off either via the hours hand of the watch, or on the 24-hour disc. The time in any of the 36 other time zones may be read off simultaneously.

The cities appearing in black represent the complete time zones, while the grey cities indicate half-hour or quarter-hour time zones. The day/night indication is symbolised by the 24-hour disc, with the night shown in red and the day in white.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time Only Watch 2013
Reference 86060/000P-9894
Timepiece certified by the Poinçon de Genève (Hallmark of Geneva)

Edition
One-of-a-kind watch made for the Only Watch auction organised by the Monaco Association against Muscular Dystrophy

Movement
Calibre 2460WT, developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical self-winding
36.6mm (11’’’ 1/4) in diameter
7.55 mm thick
Approximately 40-hour power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
255 parts
27 jewels

Indications
Hours
Minutes
Central seconds
World time (37 time zones) with day/night indication

Case
950 platinum
42.5 mm in diameter, 11.02 mm thick
Exhibition back, secured with screws
Water resistance tested to pressure equivalent to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial
Four-part dial:
1 central gold dial with hand-engraved seas coated with translucent and opalescent enamel and a map of part of Europe in translucent and opalescent champlevé enamel. City of Monaco symbolised by a round diamond.
1 metal dial with black painted cities, Monaco painted in red. 24 full time zones show in black, and 13 quarter-hour or half-hour time zones shown in grey
1 sapphire dial with 24-hour display and indication of the night zone in red and of the day zone in white
Metal ring with black painted minute circle and appliqued 18K gold hour-markers

Bracelet
Hand-sewn black Mississippiensis alligator leather, large square scales, saddle-stitched finish

Buckle
950 platinum folding clasp
Half Maltese cross

Special feature
“Only Watch 2013, Pièce unique” inscription engraved on the back of the watch

Baume & Mercier Capeland Worldtimer

Baume & Mercier, the legendary Swiss watch founded 183 years ago by Louis-Victor and Célestin Baume, pays tribute its rich heritage by unveiling the latest creation, the Capeland Worldtimer.

Aware that the bounds of the universe were far beyond the valleys of their native Jura, the Baume brothers established a branch in London in 1851. Then, under the name «Baume Brothers,» they expanded their business to the entire British Empire, opening a subsidiary in Philadelphia in 1876 and creating a vast sales network stretching from India to Africa, including Australia and New Zealand, Singapore and Burma.

Today, to honor this rich past and passion for travel, Baume & Mercier presents the Capeland Worldtimer. Globe-trotters and international businessmen will appreciate reading – at a glance – the time in the 24 cities chosen to represent the times zones of the world, thanks to the exquisite complication within the watch.

The signature pebble-shaped watch case offers a fully identifiable vintage design. The 44 mm model is available in 18K red gold or polished satin-brushed steel with a restrained but easy-to-read dial in ashen gray or off-white, with a subtle tone-on-tone refinement.

Baume & Mercier 18K Red gold Capeland Worldtimer (Model 10107)
Baume & Mercier 18K Red gold Capeland Worldtimer (Model 10107)

The new 44 mm Capeland Worldtimer in 18K red gold, of an exceptional timelessness, will appeal to fine watch enthusiasts as it contains a self-winding mechanical movement renowned for its precision and endurance.

The delicately manufactured movement, featuring premium fittings visible through the sapphire case back, displays the time simultaneously in the twenty-four time zones, and gives the date in an understated open counter at the three o’clock position. Practical and to-the point, this fine timepiece is mounted on an elegant, understated brown alligator strap in the same tone as its 24-hour ring.

The satin-brushed steel Capeland Worldtimer watch with its subtly timeless shape is presented in the very contemporary 44 mm dial diameter. Its off-white dial makes it easy to read the local time, as well as the time in all twenty-four time zones of the world.

Baume & Mercier Steel Capeland Worldtimer (Model 10106)
Baume & Mercier Steel Capeland Worldtimer (Model 10106)

This polished piece will delight craftsmanship connoisseurs, who will appreciate the superb mechanism of this self-winding caliber, visible through the sapphire case back; the quality of the blue alligator strap, in a shade matching the 24-hour ring of the watch; and the simplicity of the adjustment, making the world’s time zones visible at a glance.

Baume & Mercier Capeland Worldtimer movement case back view

The self-winding mechanical movement of Baume & Mercier Capeland Worldtimer is surprisingly easy to use. To display the local time, just select the name of the city corresponding to the time zone where you are, and turn the 24- hour ring until the digit representing the current time is facing it.

With the crown in the suitable position, simply adjust the hands. Once these quick adjustments are made and the crown is in place, it is easy to see what time it is all over the world with a simple glance at the Capeland Worldtimer.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time

A longstanding part of the Vacheron Constantin watchmaking heritage, the World Time complication is making a noteworthy comeback to the collections from the Manufacture.

The Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time model houses the new Calibre 2460WT bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva. Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin, this new mechanical self-winding movement is distinguished by its capacity to indicate the world’s 37 time zones, including those offset from Universal Coordinated Time (UCT) by a half – or quarter-hour – an exclusive mechanism patented by Vacheron Constantin.

The new Patrimony Traditonnelle World Time by Vacheron Constantin marks the return to the collection of a complication inextricably bound to the history of the Geneva-based manufacturer. The latter is also interwoven with the theme of travel, since Jean-Marc Vacheron and his successors have constantly circled the globe delivering their exceptional timepieces.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time

A pioneer in the development and production of innovative watches, the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin has displayed the same approach in being resolutely open to the world at large. Created in 1755 in Geneva and able to look back over more than 255 years of uninterrupted activity, Vacheron Constantin soon began exploring the four corners of the earth.

It established a presence in the United States in 1832 and in China in 1845 – well before the International Meridian Conference held in Washington in 1884 which divided the world into 24 time zones, taking the Greenwich meridian as the longitude 0 point of reference. This new approach became indispensable in keeping step with the development of international travel and of railways.

In keeping with the same pioneering spirit, and driven by a wish to demonstrate that the multiple time-zone watch could be further perfected, Vacheron Constantin introduced its first timepieces endowed with an international time mechanism in 1932.

This movement was the work of a brilliant Geneva watchmaker, Louis Cottier, who had imagined and developed a mechanical movement indicating the 24 time zones from 1 to 24 by means of a disc rotating around the central dial and the outer bezel bearing the names of the world’s major cities.

This first Vacheron Constantin World Time “Cottier system” watch (reference 3372) enabled simultaneous read-off of the time in 31 cities around the world. It marked the start of a rich and longstanding relationship between Vacheron Constantin and the World Time complication.

In 1936, Vacheron Constantin presented two new versions of its World Time model with a 31-city dial (reference 3650) and a 30-city dial (reference 3638) without Cairo. In 1937 and 1938, the Geneva-based Manufacture unveiled six table clocks with a mobile dial featuring 67 locations, including summer and winter time in Paris.

From the 1940s onwards, Vacheron Constantin attributed the reference number 4414 to a world time model with a 41-city dial and a day/night division of the mobile 24-hour disc. During the 1940s and 1950s, many famous customers were captivated by this useful and ingenious mechanism, and contributed to spreading the fame of this new complication.

In 1957, Vacheron Constantin wrote a new chapter in its history of World Time watches by introducing the first World Time wristwatch, reference 6213, ordered by an Egyptian dignitary. It was the first of a long line of models incorporating this remarkable complication and that earned it an outstanding reputation among connoisseurs and collectors.

Eager to make a major new contribution to the history of this complication, the Vacheron Constantin master-watchmakers and engineers have sought to create a mechanical movement capable of indicating not only the full time zones, but also the partial ones, so as to reflect the exact temporal reality in the 37 time zones.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time 18K 5N Pink gold

A number of countries have indeed adopted a half-hour or quarter-hour difference from UTC, and the Calibre 2460WT by Vacheron Constantin takes account of these specific characteristics. By way of example, it provides the correct time indication for Caracas, since Venezuela decided in 2007 to switch from a full time zone to a half time zone (GMT – 4:30).

The indication of the 37 time zones as proposed by Vacheron Constantin in its Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time is as complete as one could wish for. The display consists of three dials: a sapphire dial with a unique day/night shading; a metal dial with a “Lambert projector” type map; and a metal chapter ring.

Beating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and endowed with a 40-hour power reserve, mechanical self-winding Calibre 2460WT drives displays of the hours, minutes, central seconds and World Time. It enables simultaneous read-off of the time in all regions of the world, along with the day/night indication provided by the central world map.

All indications are adjusted via the crown, thus considerably simplifying the use of this highly technical watch. In light of these exclusive developments, a patent has been filed for the new Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2460WT bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva.

Despite its complex construction principles, the new mechanical World Time movement is extremely user-friendly. The wearer chooses the reference time and places it opposite the black triangle at 6 o’clock. The time in the reference location can then be read off either by the hour hand, or by the 24-hour disc, while the time in the other 36 time zones is simultaneously readable. The cities shown in black represent the full time zones, while the cities in red indicate half-hour or quarter-hour zones.

Incorporating all the signature characteristics of the collection – a slender bezel, a knurled motif on the case-back, a screw-down sapphire crystal case-back, and dauphine hands – the new Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time comes with a 42.5 mm diameter 18K pink gold case that is water-resistant to 30 metres. It is fitted with a brown alligator leather strap secured by an 18K pink gold folding clasp.

Due to the modern nature of this useful complication, along with the major innovations provided by its Calibre 2460WT, the Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time is destined to become an iconic model within the collection, and to perpetuate Vacheron Constantin’s pioneering role in the development of multiple time-zone watches.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Worldtime 18K 5N Pink gold
Reference 86060/000R-9640

Movement
Calibre 2460 WT, developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva
Energy: Mechanical, self-winding
Movement diameter: 36.60 mm (11’’’ ¼)
Movement thickness: 8.10 mm
Jewels: 27
Frequency: 4Hz (28’800 Vibrations/hour)
Indications: Hours, minutes and center seconds, World time indication with day/night zone (37 time zones)
Power reserve: Approximately 40 hours

Case
18K 5N Pink gold , 42.50 mm in diameter, Open-worked back with transparent sapphire crystal, Water-Resistance 3 bar (about 30 meters)

Dial 
The display is made of 3 dials:-
– 1 dial in sapphire with day / night indication in the center, 24-hour indications inked & engraved
– 1 dial in metal with “Lambert Projection” type map and transfered cities names
– 1 externalring in metal with transferred minute-track and gold applied hour-markers

Strap
Brown hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scaled Mississippiensis alligator leather
Clasp: 18K 5N pink gold triple blade folding clasp, Polished half Maltese Cross

PATEK PHILIPPE Heure Universelle Ref. 5110

Introduced in 2000, this exceptional mechanical watch from PATEK PHILIPPE is equipped with an innovative Universal Time complication that simultaneously displays local time and the time in the world’s 24 time zones.

Fitted with an original mechanism with two patents registered, the PATEK PHILIPPE World Time Ref. 5110 watch has the double advantage of being user-friendly and easy to read. The dial comprises two disks, one for the names of 24 cities, the other for 24 hours with a day and night indicator. The engine-turned opaline inner dial boasts yellow gold applique hour markers.

PATEK PHILIPPE Heure Universelle Ref. 5110
PATEK PHILIPPE Heure Universelle Yellow Gold Ref. 5110J

Carrying Poinçon de Genève certification, the automatic 240/188 calibre features a mini rotor in 22-carat gold. The 18 carat yellow gold case, which is fitted sapphire crystal case back, is water-resistant to 25 m.

The PATEK PHILIPPE Heure Universelle (world time) watch is also available in 750 (18K) pink or white gold and 950 platinum versions.

Technical details

Model: PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5110 – Heure Universelle/World Time

Versions
Ref. 5110J: Yellow gold
Ref. 5110G: White gold
Ref. 5110P: Platinum

Movement
Automatic, 240/188 calibre, mini rotor in 22-carat gold
Poinçon de Genève

Functions
Hours, minutes
Universal time (local + 24 time-zones simultaneously)

Case
750 (18K) yellow gold
Sapphire back and crystal
Water-resistant to 25 m

Dial
Engine-turned opaline centre, with yellow gold applique hour markers

Strap
Hand-sewn crocodile leather, with 750 (18K) yellow gold folding clasp

Other versions
750 (18K) pink or white gold
950 platinum, set with a diamond between the attachments

Patek Philippe Ref 5130 World Time Watch with 39.5 mm 18K Rose or White Gold Case (2006)

In 2006, Patek Philippe introduced an enlarged and updated version of their famous World Time watch that is dedicated to travellers and businesspeople, who have a penchant for extraordinary mechanical watches.

At the International Meridian Conference in Washington, D.C., in 1884, universal time was adopted and the world was officially divided into 24 time zones. Ever since, watchmakers have tried to outdo each other with clever ideas for displaying multiple time zones. In 1930, Patek Philippe presented its internationally acclaimed World Time wristwatch with two rotating discs that made it possible to simultaneously display the time in all 24 zones.

Today, these timepieces crafted from the 1930s to the 1960s fetch astronomical prices at auctions. In 2000, the Geneva workshops took the functionality of this watch a step further by integrating a single-button mechanism to advance all displays collectively when moving from one time zone to another – without affecting the rate accuracy of the movement by even one second. It took four years to develop this patented mechanism which bolstered the popularity of the World Time watch on all continents.

Patek Philippe Ref 5130 World Time Watch with 39.5 mm 18K Rose or White Gold Case

Patek Philippe has dedicated this watch to modern nomads with its fresh aesthetic appeal. The diameter of the round case, which is in the classic Calatrava style and available in 18K rose or white gold, was slightly enlarged from 37 mm to 39.5 mm. Along with providing improved readability, the watch is more prominent on the wrist yet remarkably thin despite the complexity of its movement.

The subtly reinterpreted dial was inspired by the first Ref. 1415 HU World Time watches from the 1930s. The enlargement of the case allowed the watchmakers to broaden the width of the exterior rotating disc showing the 24 time zones, making the names of the 24 reference cities even more legible. The center of the dial is decorated with a new guilloché sunburst pattern, and the distinctive hour markers give the watch a dynamic, contemporary look.

The eye-catching, ring-shaped hour hand is reminiscent of historic Patek Philippe World Time watches, reserved exclusively for this type of timepiece. Its shape symbolizes the globe and reinforces the cosmopolitan personality of the watch.

Patek Philippe Ref 5130 World Time Watch with 39.5 mm 18K Rose or White Gold Case