Independent Brands ANONIMO, De Bethune, H. Moser & Cie., HAUTLENCE and Vulcain to Showcase Their Creations At The Hyperion Hotel During Baselworld 2019 Exhibition

Five independent Swiss watch brands have joined forces at Baselworld to create a space dedicated to beautiful watchmaking and design. Known as the Time Lounge, it groups together ANONIMO, De Bethune, H. Moser & Cie., HAUTLENCE and Vulcain. From March 20th to 26th 2019, visitors can discover the newest models from these five independent brands on the third floor of the Hyperion Hotel, formerly the Ramada Plaza Basel Hotel.

At the heart of this redesigned area, ANONIMO, De Bethune, H. Moser & Cie., HAUTLENCE and Vulcain will meet clients, friends of the brands, journalists and enthusiasts to showcase their new models for 2019. With a focus on independent watchmaking and exceptional design, these five watchmaking houses are cleverly using the synergies between them to display their openness of spirit. The informal, relaxed atmosphere on the third floor of the Hyperion Hotel will be a must-visit location for those in the know.

Aldo Magada, Pierre Jacques, as well as Georges-Henri, Edouard and Bertrand Meylan along with their teams are looking forward to sharing this adventure and welcoming their visitors to Basel.

H. MOSER & CIE.

H. Moser & Cie. was created by Heinrich Moser in 1828. Based in Neuhausen am Rheinfall, it currently employs around 60 people, has developed 12 in-house calibres to date and produces more than 1,500 watches per annum.

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Tourbillon

H. Moser & Cie. manufactures parts such as regulating organs and balance-springs, which are used for its own production as well as to supply its partner companies. H. Moser & Cie. is honoured to have a Moser family member with the company as Honorary Chairman and President of the Heinrich and Henri Moser Foundation.

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds in Red Gold

The aim of the Moser Foundation, created by one of Heinrich Moser’s descendants, is to keep the family history alive and seek out antique pieces for the Moser Museum, located in Charlottenfels Manor, Heinrich Moser’s family home. With its substantial watchmaking expertise and highly acclaimed experience in the sector, MELB Holding holds shares in H. Moser & Cie. and Hautlence. MELB Holding is an independent family group, based in the heart of the legendary Vallée de Joux.

HAUTLENCE

Founded in 2004, HAUTLENCE – whose name itself is an anagram of Neuchâtel – pays tribute to the birthplace of the watchmaking art. The brand has been praised by watch collectors and aficionados from across the world for bringing a new dynamism to the art of fine watchmaking. With annual production of around 200 pieces, HAUTLENCE has seven calibres designed and developed in-house, whilst also relying on external partners for the movements used in certain collections.

HAUTLENCE Vagabonde 03

HAUTLENCE is pushing the boundaries of traditional watchmaking codes, uniting them with innovative mechanical solutions and an unlimited universe borrowed from the various arts, combining design, architecture, and movement.

HAUTLENCE Vagabonde Tourbillon

The brand takes its inspiration from this to create new approaches to time display, which it uses to elevate the two key dimensions of space and time. Ever conscious of a functional relationship with beauty, HAUTLENCE invents timepieces with completely new contours and depths, respecting every stage and every person involved in their production. In strategic terms, HAUTLENCE can count on support from MELB Holding, an independent family watchmaking group which has been offering its experience and network since 2012, to foster the synergies between HAUTLENCE and the group.

DE BETHUNE

De Bethune is an independent Swiss watch manufacturer located at L’Auberson, in the Jura mountain pastures of the canton of Vaud, Switzerland. Here, some 30 employees, including watchmakers, engineers, developer-designers, micromechanical engineers, polishers and decorators focus firmly on the research and development of technical and aesthetic innovations in the spirit of the great 18th century master watchmakers.

De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Chronomètre Tourbillon

The brand designs, develops and produces all its timepieces within its own Manufacture. Since its foundation, De Bethune has developed no fewer than 27 calibres, presented some 30 world premieres and registered a large number of patents as well as producing 150 one-off pieces to meet the expectations of the most discerning collectors.

De Bethune DB28GS Grand Bleu

De Bethune has received the highest distinctions awarded by the watch industry all over the world, including the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix for the best watch of the year. Today, Denis Flageollet, co-founder of the brand and master watchmaker, together with CEO Pierre Jacques, are spearheading the future of the company. The pure style, clean lines and delicacy of the cases represent the inimitable hallmark of De Bethune creations.

ANONIMO

Now 20 years old, the brand combines Swiss precision with a sporty-chic Italian lifestyle with a strong character. Founded in Florence by passionate watchmakers convinced that the product should be more important than the name, the brand developed timepieces for professional divers. Since 1997, ANONIMO offers watches expressing robustness and elegance.

ANONIMO NAUTILO Vintage

A pioneer in the use of original materials, it was the first brand to offer bronze diving watches. With their cushion cases, the lines MILITARE and NAUTILO and now EPURATO are characterized by an atypical construction and dials that recall the “A” of ANONIMO with markers at 12:00, 4:00 and 8:00. Based on the other side of the Matterhorn since 2013, its production now meets all the criteria to be Swiss Made.

VULCAIN

Founded in 1858 by Maurice Ditisheim, the Vulcain watch counter developed very quickly to become famous the world over, all the while remaining a family-owned business. A talented watchmaker, Maurice Ditisheim stood out by creating and making complication watches, such as the “Vallée de l’Arve” pocket watch, first made in the 1890s for the Chinese market, and featuring the functions of minute repeater, a small alarm and a perpetual calendar, presented in a gold case, and enamelled in a large fire and then inset with pearls. The strength of the brand is the reality of its history and the truth of its products, a decisive combination that opens Vulcain up to vast horizons.

VULCAIN 50s Presidents’ Watch

The uncontested specialist in mechanical alarm watches, Vulcain even today continues to write its history for the long term and with sustainability. Branded by the seal of constant innovation, the timepieces offered by Vulcain find favour with a demanding, and always better informed, clientele, a customer that adopts the brand’s motto ‘Always at the right time, always in the right place” as their own.

Exhibition details

Dates: 20th to 26th March 2019
Times: 8.30am to 6.30pm
Location: Timelounge, 3rd Floor
Hyperion Hotel (ex Ramada-Plaza)
Messeplatz 12, 4058 Basel, Switzerland

VULCAIN

Vulcain is a Swiss luxury watch brand founded by Ditisheim brothers in 1858 in Le Chaux de Fonds. Today Vulcain is an undisputed leader and specialist in the production of mechanical alarm watches.

In 1858, the Ditisheim brothers made a grand entrance onto the watchmaking scene: their Manufacture was immediately noted for the quality of its products: complication watches, chronometers and chronographs. Located at the heart of the Neuchatel mountains, the cradle of Swiss precision, it was to receive international acclaim at the Chicago and Paris World Fairs. In 1890 Maurice Ditisheim created Vulcain Complication pocket watch .

The year 1947 has gone down in the record-books as an exceptional date in the history of watchmaking. That was the year the first truly functional mechanical alarm wristwatch was presented by the Manufacture Vulcain. It was equipped with what would become the legendary Cricket Calibre. For the first time, watchmakers and scientists had managed to achieve a mechanical alarm wristwatch powerful enough to truly awaken its owner.

For Vulcain, a company in the grand watchmaking tradition founded in 1858 by Maurice Ditisheim, this period marked the start of a new era. The Cricket watch soon established itself and was notably worn by Eisenhower, Nixon and Johnson, earning it the nickname of “The Presidents’ Watch”; it also accompanied some of the great mountaineering and maritime expeditions of the 1950s.

The 1980s marked the start of a period of changes of ownership, which ended in September 2001, when the brand and the patents were acquired by PMH SA. Based in Le Locle (Canton of Neuchâtel, Switzerland), the firm is building on this exceptional legacy to write a significant new chapter in the history of the Vulcain brand, thanks to a steady stream of innovations.

In 2008 Vulcain celebrated its 150’th anniversary.

In 2009, Rapperswil-based Excellence Holding acquired PMH SA, domiciled in Le Locle, which produces the VULCAIN watch brand.The goal of Excellence Holding, based in Rapperswil in the canton of St. Gallen, to unite smaller, exquisite, high-quality companies in the watchmaking and jewelry sector under one roof and to develop them further. The group employs 80 staff members and has sales of approx. CHF 100 million. The company’s portfolio includes the well-known Swiss watch retailer Les Ambassadeurs as well as the premium watch brand Jaermann & Stübi. Vulcain is represented internationally with more than 170 specialist watch retailers, primarily in Japan, Hong Kong, Singapore, Taiwan, France and Italy. Vulcain is being integrated in the Excellence Holding as an independent company. Its headquarters will remain in Le Locle in Western Switzerland.

About Excellence Holding AG

The Excellence Holding AG, domiciled in Rapperswil in the canton of St. Gallen, Switzerland, is a wholly owned subsidiary of the Centum Prata Group. The Excellence Holding AG owns the watch and jewelry specialist retailer Les Ambassadeurs (100%) with branches in Geneva, Locarno, St. Moritz and Zurich, the watch brands Jaermann & Stübi (60%), domiciled in Zurich, and PMH SA,  (100%), domiciled in Le Locle, Switzerland. The goal of Excellence Holding is to unite smaller, exquisite, top-quality companies in the watchmaking and jewelry sector under one roof and to develop them further.

Timeline

  • 1858: Founding of the Manufacture Ditisheim frères in La Chaux-de-Fonds
  • 1889: World Fair in Paris, Vulcain wins an award for a Grande Complication watch, La Vallée de l’Arve
  • 1898: Ditisheim & Cie becomes the Fabrique Vulcain
  • 1919: New Vulcain factory, a large manufacturing facility to secure the future
  • 1947: Cricket, the first alarm wristwatch with a shrill chirping sound that delighted the world
  • 1958: Calibre 406 for the Cricket Golden Voice, a model designed for women
  • 1961: First dip for the Nautical, a diver’s watch unique in its kind
  • 2002: Rebirth of Vulcain, relocation in Le Locle
  • 2004: V-11, the Cricket calibre enhanced with a date display
  • 2005: Imperial Gong, the first tourbillon alarm watch, a stunning Grande Complication
  • 2008: The voice of the jubilee, the Anniversary Heart model, a tribute to the legendary Cricket calibre
  • 2010: V-21, the Cricket calibre enters the self-winding era. – Launch of the 50s Presidents’ watch

Official website : https://vulcain.ch/

Vulcain 50s Presidents’ Watch Collection – Inspired by the 1950s

In 1947,  Swiss watchmaker Vulcain unveiled its first mechanical alarm wristwatch, equipped with what would become the legendary Cricket Calibre. This innovative movement would feature on numerous Vulcain wristwatches. It marked the start of a new era. The success of the Cricket watch spread rapidly. Amongst its notable wearers were Presidents Truman, Eisenhower, Nixon and Johnson, earning it the nickname of «the Presidents’ watch». The destiny of the Vulcain 50s Presidents’ Watch has developed aesthetically and mechanically throughout the history of the manufacture.

Vulcain Cricket alarm wristwatch, steel, 34 mm, pink numerals, Circa 1947

A contemporary model with a fifties spirit: that was the theme behind the creation of the 50s Presidents’ Watch collection. An alarm watch inspired by the models of the 1950s, but which meets today’s most exacting standards.

Vulcain Cricket alarm wristwatch with date and small second, 34 mm, silver colour sunray dial, baton indices, Circa 1958

Right from its launch in 2010, with the first models marketed in 2011, this range seduced watch connoisseurs and collectors the world over. Equipped with Vulcain’s now legendary Cricket Calibre, this collection was quickly made available in manual and automatic versions. Every year since then, the Le Locle manufacture has added to this range, which has gradually become known as the brand’s icon.

Vulcain Cricket alarm wristwatch, steel, 38 mm, silver dial, baton indices, Circa 1960

Remaining faithful to the graphic codes of the 1950s, the first cricket watches quickly gained worldwide success, laying the foundations for what, fifty years later, would become the 50s Presidents’ Watch collection.

Milestones

  • 1947: Cricket alarm wristwatch, steel, 34 mm, pink numerals
  • 1947: Cricket alarm wristwatch, pink gold and steel, 38 mm, silver dial with fine satin finish, pink numerals and indices
  • 1958: Cricket alarm wristwatch with date and small second, 34 mm, silver colour sunray dial, baton indices
  • 1960: Cricket alarm wristwatch, steel, 38 mm, silver dial, baton indices
  • 2011: Manual cricket alarm wristwatch, date, pink gold and steel, 42 mm, silver colour dial with central guilloché finish, pink indices
  • 2011: Automatic cricket alarm wristwatch, date, steel, 42 mm, silver colour sunray dial, rhodium plated indices
  • 2012: «Vulcain for Herbie Hancock», manual cricket alarm wristwatch, date, steel, 42 mm,blue sunray dial, rhodium-plated indices
  • 2013: Manual cricket alarm wristwatch, steel, 39 mm, silver colour sunray dial, rhodium-plated indices
  • 2013: «France Edition» manual cricket alarm wristwatch, date, steel, 42 mm, silver colour sunray dial, rhodium-plated baton indices
  • 2014: Manual cricket alarm wristwatch, steel, date, 42 mm, raspberry sunray dial, stone-set bezel, rhodium-plated indices
  • 2015:«Vulcain for Heiner Lauterbach», manual cricket alarm wristwatch, pink gold and steel, 42 mm, mother of pearl dial, pink indices

In 2015, the brand also enhanced this iconic collection with a new-look dial combining elegance and refinement. Remaining faithful to the brand’s codes, the new manual range, which is available in numerous colour options, features a subtle guilloché decoration and a strap specially designed to match the dial.

Vulcain First Lady Jewellery Automatic Limited Edition

Femininity and refinement were the dual inspirations behind the development of the new models for 2016. Vulcain has expanded its «First Lady» women’s collection with the addition of a new, unique piece. With its instantly recognisable understated design and discreet, elegant colourways, this model is subtly paired with blue sapphires and green tsavorites, magnifying both its beauty and the radiant femininity of every woman.

Technical details
Reference: 63S164S83.BAP439

Case
316L steel set with 51 blue sapphires and 49 green tsavorites totaling approx. 1.46 carats
Crown: blue cabochon
Back: sapphire
Dial: rhodium set with 123 blue sapphires and 59 green tsavorites totaling approx. 2.34 carats
Dimensions: ovale 37.60 mm x 32.10 mm
Thickness: 9.20 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Movement
Vulcain Automatic Calibre V-63
11½-lignes mechanical bidirectional self-winding calibre, 25 jewels, 93 components, lift angle 47°
Decoration: rhodium coating, Côtes de Genève motifs, skeleton rotor, blued screws
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: 52 hours

Functions

Hour, minute, center seconds

Strap
Strap: pearl blue python
Dimensions: 16/14 mm
Buckle: steel pin buckle

Edition
Limited edition of 10 pieces

Vulcain 50s Presidents’ Watch Tradition, Featuring New Cricket V-40 Calibre

In 2015, Vulcain concentrated on the graphic development of its main collections, offering a number of redesigned manufacture models. This year, the Le Locle-based brand has chosen to focus more deeply on something at core of its identity: the Cricket calibre.

Vulcain has left its mark on the history of alarm watches. In 1947, the brand unveiled the Cricket alarm calibre, a movement innovative enough to be featured in several Vulcain wristwatches, and which quickly found its place in the history of Haute Horlogerie.

This year, Vulcain is paying tribute to this feat of technology by unveiling the fruit of several months of research and development: the V-40, a new version of the Cricket movement. Several objectives had to be met in the creation of this manual movement: first was the need to increase the power reserve from 40 to 52 hours; second was the possibility to make a change to its appearance, whilst still exemplifying classic elegance and understatement.

Until now, all timepieces equipped with a Cricket movement have had four hands in the centre (hour, minute, seconds and alarm). However, the introduction of the V-40 has enabled a change to their appearance, with the seconds counter at 8 o’clock and the alarm counter at 4 o’clock.

Available as four new references, these models meet the aesthetic expectations both of the brand and of its discerning clientèle, by offering a choice of subtle, elegant colours. Discretion and refinement are the watchwords for the first two pieces in this new collection, available with a black velours or grained beige dial with pink indices.

Two additional models, adorned with a clous-de-paris central section and a sunray edge, combining heritage with modernity and available in a choice of silver or ruthenium-plated versions, complete this collection.

50s Presidents’ Watch – Tradition
References: 400150A05.BAL100 & 400150A76.BAL127

Case
316L steel
Case-back: sapphire revealing the stylised “V” for Vulcain
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Height: 12.40 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5 ATM

Dial
Mat black with rhodium indexes or grained beige with pink indexes

Movement
Vulcain Cricket Manufacture Calibre V-40
12-lignes mechanical hand-wound alarm calibre, 24 jewels, 162 components, double barrel, equipped with the Exactomatic system, lift angle 48°
Decoration: nickel coating, blued screws, skeleton ratchets
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 42 hours
Alarm duration: circa 20 seconds

Functions
Center hour and minute, alarm at 4 o’clock, second at 8 o’clock

Strap
Mat black or gold Louisiana alligator
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: steel pin buckle, option of steel folding clasp

50s Presidents’ Watch – Tradition
References: 400150G25.BAL100 & 400150G85.BAL100

Case
316L steel
Case-back: sapphire revealing the stylised “V” for Vulcain
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Height: 12.40 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5 ATM

Dial
Ruthenium or silver sunray and “clous de Paris” at the center  motif with rhodium indexes

Movement
Vulcain Cricket Manufacture Calibre V-40
12-lignes mechanical hand-wound alarm calibre,
24 jewels, 162 components, double barrel, equipped with the
Exactomatic system, lift angle 48°
Decoration: nickel coating, blued screws, skeleton ratchets
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 42 hours
Alarm duration: circa 20 seconds

Functions
Center hour and minute, alarm at 4 o’clock, second at 8 o’clock

Strap
Mat black Louisiana alligator
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: steel pin buckle, option of steel folding clasp

Vulcain Anniversary Heart Calendar

Back in 2008, as a tribute to its rich and passionate 150-year history, Vulcain launched a unique model – the Anniversary Heart. Available as a limited edition, for the first time it revealed its heart through a semi-skeleton dial. It is now one of the centrepieces of the Vulcain range, and the Le Locle-based manufacture has focused on its development to offer a brand new version.

This new collection, recognisable by its semi-skeleton dial, reveals a glimpse of its heart: the charcoal grey hand-wound V-16 alarm movement. Featuring a fluted 42 mm case and a sapphire back adorned with the iconic “V” for Vulcain, this model unveils a specially finished date disc, which adds a unique touch of dynamism.

Technical details
References: 160128Q05.BAL137 & 160128Q35.BAL138

Case
316L steel
Case-back: sapphire revealing the stylised “V” for Vulcain
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Height: 13.20 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5 ATM

Dial
Smoked peacock blue or black skeleton dial with rhodium indexes

Movement
Vulcain Cricket Manufacture Calibre V-16
12-lignes mechanical hand-wound alarm calibre with date, 30 jewels, 199 components, double barrel, equipped with the Exactomatic system, lift angle 48°
Decoration: charcoal grey-coated finishing, geometric motifs, blued screws, skeleton ratchets
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: 52 hours
Alarm duration: circa 20 seconds

Functions
Hour, minute, center seconds, alarm date window at 12 o’clock

Strap
Peacock blue or black with red between scales Louisiana  alligator
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: steel folding clasp, option of steel pin buckle

Vulcain 50s Presidents’ Cloisonné Grand Feu “Poseidon” Limited Edition

Remaining faithful to its history, the Le Locle-based Manufacture has added a new model to its “Métier d’Art” collection which celebrates the age-old specialist art of cloisonné enamel. This difficult technique, which requires patience and attention to detail, brings exceptional precision to the design, as well as unique and long-lasting colour rendering.

Following on from “Le Vulcain” in 2015, the Manufacture is once again taking its inspiration from a Greek god: Poseidon. God of the seas and oceans, he is instantly recognisable by the trident he holds in one hand. This new model represents both strength and elegance, two fundamental values which have always motivated the brand’s designers when creating each timepiece.

Technical details
Case
5N 18K pink gold
Case-back: sapphire revealing the stylised “V” for Vulcain
Dial: “Grand Feu” cloisonné enamel “Poseidon”
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Height: 14.60 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5 ATM

Movement
Vulcain Cricket Manufacture Calibre V-20
12-lignes mechanical unidirectional self-winding alarm calibre, ceramic ball bearings, 36 jewels, 234 components, double barrel, equipped with Exactomatic system, lift angle 48°
Decoration: rhodium coating, Côtes de Genève motifs, blued screws
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 42 hours
Alarm duration: circa 20 seconds

Functions
Hour, minute, centre seconds, alarm

Strap
Hand-made black Louisiana alligator
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: 5N 18K pink gold pin buckle

Edition
Limited edition of 18 pieces

Vulcain 50s Presidents’ Watch Classic Automatic

Since its very beginnings, Vulcain has enjoyed an international reputation fostered by the workmanship and elegance of its timepieces.

To highlight this mastery of watch design, the brand is expanding its historic 50s Presidents’ Classic line to include two new models in on-trend variations of tones, complemented by a special matching strap.

Technical details
References: 560156D35.BAC135 & 560156D85.BAC136

Case
316L steel
Case-back: sapphire
Dial: gradient blue or brown sunray dial with rhodium indexes
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Height:8.60 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5 ATM

Movement
Vulcain Automatic Calibre V-56
11½-lignes mechanical bidirectional self-winding calibre with date, 25 jewels, 93 components, lift angle 47°
Decoration: rhodium coating, côtes de Genève motifs, blued screws
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: 42 hours

Functions
Hour, minute, center seconds, date window at 6 o’clock

Strap
Strap: gradient blue or brown calb lether
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: steel pin buckle

Vulcain 50s Presidents’ Watch 39mm, Electric Blue Enamel Dial

Returning to one of the defining moments in its history, Vulcain continues to keep the spirit of the alarm watch alive with its 50s Presidents’ Watch 39mm collection. Its electric blue enamel dial and its unique, refined guilloché decoration lend this new timepiece a striking appearance, available in a limited edition of XXX exclusive pieces. At its heart beats the legendary Cricket V-10 manual movement.

Technical details
Reference: 100153E38.BDM282

Case
316L steel
Case-back: sapphire revealing the stylised “V” for Vulcain or with double case-back
Dial: blue enamel with transferred white indexes
Diameter: 39.00 mm
Height: 12.40 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5 ATM

Movement
Vulcain Cricket Manufacture Calibre V-10
12-lignes mechanical hand-wound alarm calibre, 17 jewels, 157 components, double barrel, equipped with the Exactomatic system, lift angle 48°
Decoration: nickel coating, blued screws, skeleton ratchets
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: 42 hours
Alarm duration: circa 20 seconds

Functions
Hour, minute, center seconds, alarm

Strap
316L Steel Milanese with clasp
Dimensions: 20 mm

Vulcain Cricket Calibres – A Look Back

Renowned for its iconic models and its unique mechanical movements, the Vulcain manufacture occupies a special place in the world of Haute Horlogerie. Active since 1858 in the manufacture of exceptional timepieces; Vulcain has always created watches which meet the varied requirements of the time periods it has spanned. Vulcain is still guided by the watchwords «innovation» and «exploration», in launching the products of the future and exploring the company’s rich history to perpetuate its expertise and showcase its original character.

The history of alarm watches dates back quite some time. As early as the 14th century, the first models were given to the watchmen who would patrol the villages to prevent fires. These watches were simple devices whose primary function was to sound an alarm. They were also used in monasteries to mark the passage of time and signal prayer times.

During the 16th century, church bells were embellished with clocks including a chime module. This was the first alarm mechanism. Throughout history, this module has continued to shrink in size, from the clock forming the centrepiece on a table or mantle piece, to a model which could be worn (pocket watch).

Following this evolution, the researchers of the time were finally faced with a problem of size: is it possible to further miniaturise this complex module to enable it to be integrated into a wristwatch case?

The engineers and researchers faced numerous technological requirements in the process of developing an alarm system compatible with the size of a watch case, including:

  • Miniaturisation of the chime mechanism.
  • Integration of this module within a mechanical movement, while retaining its accuracy.
  • Ensuring sufficient power to drive the watch’s operating and chime functions.
  • Creating a chime which was powerful enough.
  • Sound diffusion outside the case: the hermetic seal of the case made it difficult to hear the sound of the hammer striking the anvil inside the case. Furthermore, by definition, a wristwatch is worn on the wrist, which makes resonance even more difficult.
  • Maintaining the water resistance of the watch.

Thanks to a great deal of patience and determination, the Vulcain Watch Manufacture successfully overcame this challenge by working closely with a large team of experts, engineers and technicians. After five years of research and prototyping, the watchmaking firm could boast that it had completed this arduous task with great success.

The complex mechanism of the Vulcain calibre was inspired by the animal kingdom – the cricket, to be precise. The basic premise was this: if a tiny creature such as a cricket can emit a sound which can be heard over 30 metres away, it should be possible to adapt and reproduce this mechanism in a watch case. But how does this creature emit its sound? To do this, it uses its «elytra» or wing covers. These are very hard front wings covering the hind wings, which it rubs together to produce a chirping noise.

The vibrations of the thin, transparent part of the wing, called the «membrane», enable the cricket to vary its chirp, thereby increasing its sound. So it was in 1947 that Vulcain launched its first alarm wristwatch, called the «Cricket», reproducing the unique chirping sound of this tiny creature thanks to a mechanism featuring a peg fixed on a membrane.

When the hammer struck the anvil, the latter began to resonate and the sound was amplified thanks to an openwork double bottom. Its double-barrelled system enabled the Vulcain calibre to emit a powerful chime lasting approx. 20 seconds.

Today’s Movements
Hand-winding movements

  • Vulcain Calibre V-10: 165 parts, 25 rubies, Size: Ø28mm, Height: 5.6mm
  • Vulcain Calibre with Date V-11: 199 parts, 30 rubies, Size: Ø28mm, Height: 6.3mm
  • Vulcain Calibre V-13: 165 parts – 25 rubies, Size: Ø28mm, Height: 5.6mm, Meticulous Finish, Côtes De Geneve Motifs
  • Vulcain Calibre with Date V-16: 199 parts, 30 rubies, Size: Ø28mm, Height 6.3mm, Meticulous Finish, Charcoal Grey Coating
  • Vulcain Calibre V-18: 165 parts, 25 rubies, Size: Ø28mm, Height: 5.6mm, Meticulous Finish , Côtes De Geneve Motifs, Charcoal Grey Coating

Self-winding movements

  • Vulcain Calibre V-20: 234 parts, 36 rubies, Size: Ø28mm, Height: 7.6mm, Meticulous Finish, Côtes De Geneve Motifs
  • Vulcain Calibre with Date V-21: 271 parts, 36 rubies, Size: Ø28mm, Height: 8.4mm, Meticulous Finish, Côtes De Geneve Motifs
  • Vulcain Calibre V-28: 234 parts, 36 rubies, Size: Ø28mm, Height: 7.6mm, Meticulous Finish, Côtes De Geneve Motifs, Charcoal Grey Coating
  • Vulcain Calibre With Date V-22: 271 parts, 36 rubies, Size : Ø28mm, Height 8.4mm, Meticulous Finish , Côtes De Geneve Motifs, Charcoal Grey Coating

A Cricket model represents much more than a simple «alarm» watch. Its unique technology is the signature of the Vulcain brand and the result is a genuine timepiece with alarm function.

Vulcain Calibre V-10

Today, it is even effectively used as a day-timer or, more simply, as a reminder tool for meetings and maintenance. With such a great reputation, it is only natural that the Vulcain Watch Manufacture still continues to develop this unique calibre, thereby perpetuating the modern history of the brand 70 years after the launch of this exceptional calibre.

Vulcain Pegasus for Only Watch 2015

With this unique wristwatch, Manufacture des Montres Vulcain joins ONLY WATCH 2015 charity auction to support the MONACO ASSOCIATION AGAINST MUSCULAR DYSTROPHY, assisting their journey to bettering the lives of young AMM patients and their families.

This unique Pegasus timepiece developed for only watch 2015 features a universal symbol of wisdom and knowledge to celebrate Vulcain’s time-honored watchmaking expertise.

Pegasus is one of the best-known mythological creatures in Greek mythology. He is a winged divine stallion usually depicted as pure white in color. Greco-Roman poets wrote about his ascent to heaven after his birth and his obedience to Zeus, king of the gods. He was captured by the Greek hero Bellerophon near the Perene fountain with the help of Athena and Poseidon. Pegasus allowed the hero to ride him to defeat a monster, the Chimera, before accomplishing many other exploits. Because of his faithful service to Zeus, he was rewarded by being transformed into the constellation Pegasus and placed up in the sky. The symbolism of Pegasus has varied through the ages. An emblem of wisdom and especially of fame from the Middle Ages until the Renaissance, he became a symbol of poetry and the creator of sources from which the poets draw inspiration, particularly in the 19th century. Pegasus is the subject of a very rich iconography, especially expressed in ancient Greek pottery and paintings, as well as Renaissance sculptures.

Symbol of Wisdom and inspiring springs, this representation of the Pegasus by the Manufacture Vulcain celebrates the unique and secular know-how of art of the Enamel. Its unique manufacture movement and the refined finishing make this timepiece a real collector’s item.

Technical details
Vulcain only watch 2015
Model: 50s Presidents’ Cloisonné Grand Feu “Only Watch Pegasus” unique timepiece
Reference: 200550E8T.BBK101

Case
5N 18K pink gold
Case-back: sapphire revealing the stylised “V” for Vulcain
Diameter:42.00 mm
Height: 14.60 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5 ATM

Dial
“Grand Feu” cloisonné enamel

Movement
Manufacture Vulcain self-winding cricket calibre V-20
12-lignes mechanical unidirectional self-winding alarm calibre, ceramic ball bearings, 31 jewels,
229 components, double barrel, equipped with Exactomatic system, lift angle 48°
Decoration: rhodium coating, Côtes de Genève motifs, blued screws
Functions: hour, minute, centre seconds, alarm
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 42 hours
Duration of the alarm: circa 20 seconds

Strap
Black Louisiana alligator leather
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: 5N 18K pink gold pin buckle

Vulcain 50s Presidents’ Watch Manual with Restyled Dial

In 2015 Vulcain expands the iconic 50s Presidents’ Watch Manual collection with a restyled dial combining elegance and refinement. Available in a range of colour ways, this collection features with a subtle guilloché finish, complimented by a bracelet specially designed to match the dial.

 

Technical details
Case and dial
Case: 316L steel
Case-back: sapphire revealing the stylised “V” for Vulcain
Dial: silver guilloché with rhodium indexes
Diameter: 42,00 mm
Height: 13,90 mm
Glass Glace: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5 ATM

Movement
Calibre Vulcain Cricket Manufacture V-11
12-lignes mechanical hand-wound alarm calibre with date, 30 jewels, 199 components, double barrel, equipped with the Exactomatic system, lift angle 48°
Decoration: nickel coating, blued screws, skeleton ratchet
Functions: hour, minute, centre seconds, alarm, date window at 6 o’clock
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 42 hours
Alarm duration: circa 20 seconds

Strap
Strap: gold or chestnut Louisiana alligator
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: steel pin buckle, option of steel folding clasp

References
110151G20.BAL127
110151G20.BAL128

Vulcain Aviator Cricket

In 2014 Vulcain launched the Aviator Instrument Chronograph. This year, Vulcain is expanding this range with an Aviator Cricket collection graphically based on the 2014 model but with the addition of a V-11 manufacture alarm movement. The Vulcain Aviator Cricket comes in a stainless steel case with an option of black or off-white opaline dial. This mechanical alarm watch also displays date at 6 o’clock and 24-hour world time adjustable by a screw-lock crown at 4 o’clock.

Technical details
Case
Case: 316L steel
Pusher: black or blue
Case-back: sapphire revealing the stylised “V” for Vulcain
Diameter: 42,00 mm
Height: 14,00 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 10 ATM

Dial
Black or off-white opaline

Movement
Calibre Vulcain Cricket Manufacture V-11
12-lignes mechanical hand-wound alarm calibre with date, 30 jewels, 199 components, double barrel, equipped with the Exactomatic system, lift angle 48°
Decoration: nickel coating, blued screws, skeleton ratchet
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 42 hours
Alarm duration: circa 20 seconds

Functions
Hour, minute, centre seconds, alarm, date window at 6 o’clock, 24-hour world time adjustable by a screw-lock crown at 4 o’clock

Strap
Strap: black or brown leather
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: steel folding clasp

References
110163A07.BFC102: Black dial
110163A77.BFC111: white opaline dial

Vulcain – 50s Presidents’ Cloisonné Grand Feu “The Vulcain” Limited Edition

Remaining faithful to its history, the Le Locle-based Manufacture has added a new model to its «Métier d’Art» collection which celebrates the age-old specialist art of cloisonné enamel. This difficult technique, which requires patience and attention to detail, brings exceptional precision to the design, as well as unique and long-lasting colour rendering. The mythological theme of this new model represents both the manufacture’s heritage and the underlying principles that guide it: industry, finesse and expertise.

The legendary talented craftsman with an unrivalled genius for manufacturing complex items, famed for their indestructibility, Vulcan (known as Vulcain in French, and Hephaestus in Greek mythology) is the god of fire, metal and smithery.

He was the most hard-working and industrious of all those dwelling in Olympus. He worked for the other Gods, providing them with weapons, jewellery and other divine objects, which only he had the skill to produce. All the works forged for the Gods, such as Poseidon’s trident, Artemis’ and Apollo’s arrows, Achille’s and Aeneus’ weapons, Hermione’s necklace, Ariadne’s crown and Jupiter’s thunderbolts, can be attributed to him. Vulcan’s symbols are a hammer and anvil.

Technical details
Model: 50s Presidents’ Cloisonné Grand Feu “The Vulcain”
Limited Edition of 30 pieces

Case and dial
Case: 5N 18K pink gold
Case-back: sapphire revealing the stylised “V” for Vulcain
Dial: “Grand Feu” cloisonné enamel “The Vulcain”
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Height: 14.60 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance:5 ATM

Movement
Manufacture Vulcain Self-Winding Cricket Calibre V-20
12-lignes mechanical unidirectional self-winding alarm calibre, ceramic ball bearings, 36 jewels, 234 components, double barrel, equipped with Exactomatic system, lift angle 48°
Decoration: rhodium coating, Côtes de Genève motifs, blued screws
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 42 hours
Duration of the alarm: circa 20 seconds

Functions
Hour, minute, centre seconds, alarm

Strap
Strap: claret Louisiana alligator leather
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: 5N 18K pink gold pin buckle

Vulcain 50s Presidents’ Watch « Heiner Lauterbach » Edition

Swiss watch maker Vulcain unveils a special edition 50s Presidents’ watch dedicated to German actor Heiner Lauterbach, who is one of the ambassadors of the brand. As a connoisseur of the watch industry, Heiner Lauterbach possesses an acute sense of design and an appreciation of technical details, and recognises the importance of impeccable manufacturing quality. His philosophy dovetails perfectly with that of the Le Locle-based manufacture, which is a part of the great tradition of watchmaking, with expertise in the luxury sector, and the fields of technology and design.

So, it was a natural step for the brand to develop a special model in collaboration with its ambassador. After having worn the first Vulcain Cricket watch during the filming of his series «Tannbach», the actor knew there was only one logical choice of design for his first limited edition. With its appearance based on the legendary first Cricket watch dating from 1947, this timepiece subtly combines a vintage look with contemporary precision. With its mother of pearl dial, bicolour pink gold/steel case and honey alligator strap, this 50s Presidents’ Cricket reflects the aesthetic style of the 1950s.

Born in Cologne in April 1953, Heiner Lauterbach realised at a young age that he would prefer the ups and downs of life as an actor to conventional studies. Aged eighteen, he was accepted to the Cologne conservatory for the dramatic arts. One year later, he was already acting on the stage, followed shortly after by a stint behind the camera. Heiner Lauterbach quickly made a name for himself re-recording dialogue for foreign language films, notably lending his voice to great American actors such as Richard Gere, Kevin Costner and John Malkovich.

Technical details
Model: The 50s Presidents’ Watch “Vulcain for Heiner Lauterbach”
Limited Edition of 99 pieces
Reference: 100650N26.BAL114

Case
Case: two-tone 5N 18K pink gold and 316L steel
Case-back: sapphire revealing the stylised “V” for Vulcain
Dial: mother of pearl with pink indexes
Diameter: 42, 00 mm
Height: 11, 85 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5 ATM

Movement
Calibre Vulcain Cricket Manufacture V-10
12-lignes mechanical hand-wound alarm calibre, 25 jewels, 165 components, double barrel, equipped with the Exactomatic system, lift angle 48°
Decoration: nickel coating, blued screws, skeleton ratchet
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 42 hours

Functions
Hour, minute, centre seconds, alarm
Alarm duration: circa 20 seconds

Strap
Strap: honey-colored Louisiana alligator
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: steel pin buckle

Vulcain Nautical Seventies Vulcain Trophy 2014

This latest version of the legendary Nautical Seventies is developed for the Vulcain Trophy 2014 and offered in 35-piece limited series. Following the trend of equipping colourful dials to its flagship models, in this new model, Vulcain offers a stunning colour combination of various shades of green.

Technical details
Model: Nautical Seventies Vulcain Trophy 2014
Ref. 100159A97.BAC116

Movement
Mechanical hand-wound Vulcain Cricket manufacture caliber V-10, double barrel, equipped with the Exactomatic system, 165 components, 18’000 vibrations per hour, 42-hour power reserve.

Functions
Hours, minutes, central seconds, alarm, fixed dial with decompression-table indication and 60-minute graduated rotating inner bezel ring activated by a screw locked crown at 4 o’clock

Case
316L steel, 42 mm in diameter, triple case-back serving as a resonance chamber and enabling underwater use of the alarm function
Water resistance: 30 ATM.

Strap
Black and green water-repellent leather, steel pin buckle

Vulcain 50s Presidents’ Watch Manual New Models with Raspberry and Tobacco Toned Dials

Vulcain has been active since 1858 in the creation of exceptional watches, consistently offering timepieces meeting the varying demands of the successive eras it has crossed. Innovating in order to offer products with a future; exploring the rich history of Vulcain so as to perpetuate its expertise and reveal its original character: such are the fundamental principles guiding the daily endeavours of the watchmakers within the Manufacture.

In addition to the legendary Cricket alarm calibre, the Manufacture has succeeded in establishing its stature by offering models combining classicism and slenderness, in harmony with its fabulous history.

Nonetheless, Vulcain has decided this year to opt for a deliberately daring approach by introducing a range of colourful models naturally mingling tradition with trends.

The most representative example of this new attitude is the extension of the 50s Presidents’ Watch Manual featuring new raspberry and tobacco-toned dials. Driven by the same concern for details, the Louisiana alligator leather straps – whether shiny raspberry, pearly brown, matt black or chestnut brown with hazelnut-brown spaces between the scales – have been specially selected to make a perfect match with the dial.

These timepieces featuring a blend of classical and modern elements are equipped with the emblematic manually-wound Vulcain alarm movement and are available in gem-set or non-set versions.

Technical details
Movement
Mechanical hand-wound Vulcain Cricket manufacture caliber V-11, double barrel, equipped with the Exactomatic system, 199 components, 18’000 vibrations per hour, 42-hour power reserve.

Functions
Hour, minute, center seconds, alarm, date window

Case
316L steel raspberry or tobacco, bezel not set or set with 80 TW VS1-2 diamonds totaling approx. 0.92 carats, 42.00 in diameter, sapphire case-back revealing the stylised “V” for Vulcain
Water resistance: 5 ATM

Strap
Louisiana alligator, steel pin buckle

References
11L151A85.BAL119: Raspberry toned dial, Gem set Version
11L151A95.BAL120: Tobacco toned dial, Gem set Version
110151A85.BAL100: Raspberry toned dial
110151A95.BAL118: Tobacco toned dial

VULCAIN TOURBILLON

Swiss luxury watch maker VULCAIN unveils a brand new tourbillon timepiece in a limited edition of 25 pieces. This 18 carat pink gold timepiece is available in two dial variations: silver or charcoal grey with pink indexes. The meticulously decorated movement dominates the front view with a 60 seconds tourbillon at 9’o clock. The Tourbillon Bridge is designed like V to highlight the legacy of Vulcain watch manufacture.

The huge pink gold indexes and Arabic numerals stand tall at the outer dial. The inner dial, which offers the stunning view of mechanical hand-wound tourbillon movement, has hour and minute hands, retrograde date indication and power reserve indicator.

The Calibre Vulcain Tourbillon V- 62 beats at the rate of 28’800 vibrations per hour and provides a power reserve of 5 days.

Technical details
Case
Case: 5N 18K pink gold
Case-back: sapphire
Diameter: 42, 00 mm
Height: 12, 50 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5 ATM

Dial
Circular semi-skeleton satin-like and locked polished angles, silver or charcoal grey with pink indexes

Movement
Calibre Vulcain Tourbillon V- 62
Movement: 13¼-lignes mechanical hand-wound tourbillon with date, 37 jewels, 264 components, double barrel, lift angle 54°
Decoration: meticulous charcoal grey-coated finish, côtes de Genève motifs, tourbillon bridge representing the stylished “V” for Vulcain, blue screws
Frequency: 28’800 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 120 hours, or 5 days

Functions
Hour, minute, 60 seconds tourbillon at 9 o’clock, power reserve indication at 5 o’clock, retrograde date at 1,30 o’clock

Strap
Strap: hand sewn black Louisiana alligator
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: 5N 18K pink gold 3 strips ergonomic folding clasp

References
620565Q28.BGK101 – Silver dial
620565Q18.BGK101 – charcoal grey dial

VULCAIN First Lady Automatic

Swiss luxury watch maker VULCAIN introduces the First Lady Automatic, an exceptional line of beautifully crafted ladies’ mechanical timepieces. These luxurious timepieces are available in pink gold and stainless steel versions with or without diamond setting. The distinctive oval shaped case houses a mechanical bidirectional self-winding calibre with date. Available in silver, chocolate, ivory and charcoal grey mother of pearl dial variations.

First Lady Automatic Pink Gold – Set Case and Set Indexes Dial
Ref. 61S564N1T.BBL413 & Ref. 61S564N2T.BBL412

Case: 5N 18K pink gold set with 82 TW VS diamonds totaling approx. 1,07 carats
Dimensions: oval shape, 37,60 mm x 32,10 mm & Height: 9,20 mm
Crown: blue or black cabochon
Case-back: sapphire
Dial: silver or charcoal grey mother of pearl with pink indexes set with 39 diamonds totaling approx. 0,056 carats
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 3 ATM
Strap: leather
Buckle: 5N 18K pink gold pin buckle

First Lady Automatic Pink Gold – Set Indexes Dial
Ref. 610564N1T.BBS413 & Ref. 610564N2T.BBS412

Case: 5N 18K pink gold
Dimensions: oval shape 37,60 mm x 32,10 mm & Height: 9,20 mm
Crown: blue or black cabochon
Case-back: sapphire
Dial: silver or charcoal grey mother of pearl with pink indexes set with 39 diamonds totaling approx. 0,056 carats
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 3 ATM
Strap: satin
Buckle: 5N 18K pink gold pin buckle

First Lady Automatic Steel – Mother of Pearl Set Dial and Set Case
Ref. 61S164N4S.BAL407, Ref. 61S164N1S.BAL413 & Ref. 61S164N2S.BAL412

Case: 316L steel set with 82 TW VS diamonds totaling approx. 1,07 carats
Dimensions: oval shape 37,60 mm x 32,10 mm & Height: 9,20 mm
Crown: blue or black cabochon
Case-back: sapphire
Dial: silver, charcoal grey or chocolate mother of pearl with rhodium indexes set with 39 diamonds totaling approx. 0,056 carats
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 3 ATM
Strap: leather
Buckle: steel pin buckle

First Lady Automatic Steel – Mother of Pearl Dial and Set Bezel
Ref. 61L164N70.BAL411, Ref. 61L164N20.BAL412 & Ref. 61L164N10.BAL413

Case: 316L steel with bezel set with 58 TW VS diamonds totaling approx. 0,88 carats
Dimensions: oval shape 37,60 mm x 32,10 mm & Height: 9,20 mm
Crown: blue or black cabochon
Case-back: sapphire
Dial: silver, ivory or charcoal grey mother of pearl with rhodium indexes
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 3 ATM
Strap: leather
Buckle: steel pin buckle

First Lady Automatic Steel – Mother of Pearl Dial with Set Indexes
Ref. 610164N4S.BAS407, Ref. 610164N1S.BAS413 & Ref. 610164N2S.BAS412

Case: 316L steel
Crown: blue or black cabochon
Case-back: sapphire
Dial: silver, charcoal grey or chocolate mother of pearl with rhodium indexes set with 39 diamonds totaling approx. 0,056 carats
Dimensions: oval shape 37,60 mm x 32,10 mm & Height: 9,20 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 3 ATM
Strap: satin
Buckle: steel pin buckle

First Lady Automatic Steel – Mother of Pearl Dial
Ref. 610164N70.BAS415, Ref. 610164N10.BAS413 & Ref. 610164N20.BAS412

Case: 316L steel
Crown: blue or black cabochon
Case-back: sapphire
Dial: silver, charcoal grey or ivory mother of pearl with rhodium indexes
Dimensions: oval shape 37,60 mm x 32,10 mm & Height: 9,20 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 3 ATM
Strap: satin
Buckle: steel pin buckle

Movement Specifications
CALIBRE VULCAIN AUTOMATIC V- 61
Movement: 11½-lignes mechanical bidirectional self-winding calibre with date, 25 jewels, 93 components, lift angle 47°
Decoration: rhodium coating, côtes de Genève motifs, skeleton rotor, blued screws
Functions: hour, minute, centre seconds, date window at 3 o’clock
Frequency: 28’800 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 42 hours

VULCAIN Aviator Instrument Chronograph Collection

Swiss watch maker VULCAIN unveils aviator instrument collection, a line of exceptional timepieces dedicated to the lovers of aviation time keepers. Available in sporty and classic versions, these aviator watches beat to rhythm of Vulcain Automatic V- 59 mechanical self-winding chronograph movement.

Dressed in a solid stainless steel case and available in several dial versions, the aviator instrument chronograph offers the following functions: hour, minute, seconds counter at 9 o’clock, date  window at 6 o’clock, centre second chronograph, 30-minute  chronograph counter at 3 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock.

Aviator Instrument Chronograph Sport – Automatic
Ref. 590163A17.BFC006 (charcoal grey dial), Ref. 590163A37.BFC010 (Blue dial) & Ref. 590163A47.BFC008 (Chocolate dial)

Case and dial
Case: 316L Steel
Pusher: all rhodium or with blue, black or red head
Case-back: sapphire
Dial: charcoal grey, blue or chocolate rhodiumed applies
Diameter: 44, 60 mm
Height: 15, 40 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 10 ATM

Movement
Calibre Vulcain Automatic V- 59
13¼-lignes mechanical chronograph unidirectional self-winding calibre with date, 27 jewels, 247 components, lift angle 49°
Decoration: nickel coating, skeleton rotor
Frequency: 28’800 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 48 hours

Functions
Hour, minute, seconds counter at 9 o’clock, date window at 6 o’clock, centre second chronograph, 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock

Strap
Strap: black / blue / chestnut leather
Dimensions: 23/20 mm
Buckle: steel folding clasp

Aviator Instrument Chronograph Sport – Automatic
Ref. 590163A27.BFC002 (Silver dial)

Case and dial
Case: 316L Steel
Pusher: all rhodium or with blue, black or red head
Case-back: sapphire
Dial: silver with charcoal grey applies
Diameter: 44, 60 mm
Height: 15, 40 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 10 ATM

Movement
Calibre Vulcain Automatic V- 59
Movement: 13¼-lignes mechanical chronograph unidirectional self-winding calibre with date, 27 jewels, 247 components, lift angle 49°
Decoration: nickel coating, skeleton rotor
Frequency: 28’800 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 48 hours

Functions
Hour, minute, seconds counter at 9 o’clock, date window at 6 o’clock, centre second chronograph, 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock

Strap
Strap: black leather
Dimensions: 23/20 mm
Buckle: steel folding clasp

Aviator Instrument Chronograph Classic Automatic
Ref. 590263A07.BFC002 & Ref. 590263A77.BFC011

Case and dial
Case: 316L Steel
Pusher: blue or black head
Case-back: sapphire
Dial: black or off-white with rhodiumed applies
Diameter: 44,60 mm
Height: 15,40 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 10 ATM

Movement
Calibre Vulcain Automatic V- 59
13¼-lignes mechanical chronograph unidirectional self-winding calibre with date, 27 jewels, 247 components, lift angle 49°
Decoration: nickel coating, skeleton rotor
Frequency: 28’800 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 48 hours

Functions
Hour, minute, seconds counter at 9 o’clock, date window at 6 o’clock, centre second chronograph, 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock

Strap
Strap: black / brown leather
Dimensions: 23/20 mm
Buckle: steel folding clasp

VULCAIN 50s Presidents’ Enamel “Pegausus” Collection (In the Sky & On the Mountain – Grand Feu Cloisonné Enamel) Limited Edition

To mark the grand opening of the first Vulcain Monoboutique in Beijing and to salute the Chinese 2014 Year of Horse, the Manufacture Vulcain enriches its enamel collection by presenting its new 50s Presidents’ “Pegasus” model. This outstanding new timepiece features a universal symbol of wisdom and knowledge to celebrate Vulcain’s time-honoured watchmaking expertise.

Pegasus is one of the best-known mythological creatures in Greek mythology. He is a winged divine stallion usually depicted as pure white in colour. Greco-Roman poets wrote about his ascent to heaven after his birth and his obedience to Zeus, king of the gods.He was captured by the Greek hero Bellerophon near the Perene fountain with the help of Athena and Poseidon. Pegasus allowed the hero to ride him to defeat a monster, the Chimera, before accomplishing many other exploits. Because of his faithful service to Zeus, he was rewarded by being transformed into the constellation Pegasus and placed up in the sky.

The symbolism of Pegasus has varied through the ages. An emblem of wisdom and especially of fame from the Middle Ages until the Renaissance, he became a symbol of poetry and the creator of sources from which the poets draw inspiration, particularly in the 19th century. Pegasus is the subject of a very rich iconography, especially expressed in ancient Greek pottery and paintings, as well as Renaissance sculptures.

On the Mountain and In the Sky
Pegasus was raised by the Muses at Mount Helicon, where he was taken by the goddess Athena. In his excitement for being given to these women, Pegasus struck the side of the mountain with his hooves and his marks caused springs to turn into flowing fountains of inspiration. Those springs became sacred to the Muses who loved and respected the “flying horse”. From then on, wherever the winged horse struck the earth with his hooves, an inspiring spring burst forth. After flying back to heaven, Pegasus lived on Mt Olympus until his last day and served Zeus with his thunder and lightning magic powers.

Two exceptional timepieces from Manufacture Vulcain symbolises the story of Pegasus. Available in limited editions of 18 pieces of each model – Pegasus in the Sky & Pegasus on the Mountain – this collection employs century old art enamelling technique. These models, available in 18 carat pink gold,  are powered with the legendary cricket calibre developed by the manufacture.

Grand Feu Cloisonné Enamel
Cloisonné is an enamelling technique in which the outline of the dial design is produced either on the dial itself, or on paper. Extremely fine strips of gold wire measuring only 0.07 mm wide are hand bent and applied to the outline using two pliers. The individual cells that give the image detail, dimension and nuance are also formed by gold wire and placed within the outline.

Colours are then picked out for each cell in order to create the cloistered or partitioned effect. Five layers of enamel are applied to the cloisonné dial. This meant that a cloisonné dial has all coloured cells filled in and fired in the kiln for a total of five to seven times before it is ready to be polished.

These multiple levels of colour create the sense of depth and three dimensions that make the enamel dials come to life. Grand Feu enamelling is one of the most difficult techniques employed in the art of decorating watches, and also offers the greatest durability.

The master artisan does not paint the motif directly on the watch, but instead applies different enamels on the dial.

The enameller then fires his piece of work several times to  enable the motif and colours to appear gradually. Grand Feu enamelling creates an unalterable and refined decoration. 50s Presidents’ Pegasus – a Symbole of Wisdom

First Alarm Wristwatch
Since the start of the 20th century, technicians had been seeking to create an alarm watch, a quest that raised the difficult and apparently insoluble problem of housing an alarm mechanism within the limited space of a normal-sized wristwatch. All attempts made up until then – a bell, an easel comprising the acoustic organs, and even a claw gently scratching the wearer’s wrist – had yielded disappointing results. The Manufacture Vulcain was to have the honor of giving Swiss watchmaking the first alarm wristwatch that truly rang out as loudly as a large alarm clock, and of which the strident chirping was as insistent as that of a cricket – hence the name.

The Manufacture Vulcain
Renowned for its iconic models and its unique mechanical movements, the Manufacture Vulcain has a place all its own within the world of Fine Watchmaking.

Active since 1858 in the making of exceptional watches, the company now located in a mansion in Le Locle, a cradle of Swiss watchmaking has constantly produced timepieces meeting the diverse requirements of the passing eras. Innovating in order to offer products worthy of the future; exploring Vulcain’s rich history in order to perpetuate its expertise and reveal its original character: such are the principles governing the daily work of the master-watchmakers exercising their skills within the Manufacture. In addition to the fabled Cricket alarm caliber that continues to beat at the heart of the brand’s iconic models, the Manufacture has successfully established itself by offering legendary models bound up with the fabulous history of Vulcain. The brand continues to forge its exemplary foundation around its two pillars and their undeniable evocative power.

Technical details
Collection: 50s Presidents’ Cricket “Pegasus”
In the Sky & On the Mountain – Grand Feu Cloisonné Enamel
Ref. 200 550.319L: Pegasus in the Sky
Ref. 200 550.318L: Pegasus on the Mountain
Limited Edition – Each model is individually-numbered and limited to 18 pieces

Case
Case: 5N 18K pink gold
Case-back: sapphire revealing the stylised “V” for Vulcain
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Height: 14.60 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5 ATM

Dial
“Grand Feu” cloisonné enamel

Movement
Manufacture Vulcain Self-Winding Cricket Calibre V-20
12-lignes mechanical unidirectional selfwinding alarm calibre, ceramic ball bearings, 31 jewels,  229 components, double barrel, equipped with Exactomatic  system, lift angle 48°
Decoration: rhodium coating, Côtes de Genève motifs, blued screws
Functions: hour, minute, centre seconds, alarm
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 42 hours
Duration of the alarm: circa 20 seconds

Strap
Strap: black Louisiana alligator leather
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: 5N 18K pink gold pin buckle

VULCAIN NAUTICAL DLC

The mid-20th century witnessed the invention of the regulator, serving to balance the pressure between the diver’s lungs and the compressed air reserves. This invention boosted the spread of scuba diving and the emergence of instruments designed to accompany sports enthusiasts.

In 1961, Vulcain presented one of the first diver’s watches with an alarm movement that was genuinely audible under water: the Nautical. Its strike represents a precious function which – thanks to its triple case-back serving as a resonance chamber – effectively warns divers that it is time to return to the surface. In 2013, Vulcain pays tribute to this legendary model by creating a DLC limited edition.

This highly durable, charcoal grey layer with a low friction coefficient consists of an atomic lattice composed of the two forms of carbon: diamond (sp³) and graphite (sp²). Diamondblack™DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) is applied using a coating process which faithfully mirrors the original surface finishes. Diamondblack™DLC consists solely of molecules of carbon and hydrogen arranged in a structure similar to that of diamond, producing a layer with excellent chemical stability and high corrosion resistance.

Its proven biocompatibility enables prolonged contact with the skin without causing irritation. It has a very high level of hardness, around 5,000 Vickers, compared to stainless steel, approximately 200 Vickers. This high-tech coating is used in the aerospace industry and in any application in which wear resistance and a low friction coefficient are essential.

Technical details
Model: NAUTICAL DLC, 100-piece Limited Edition
Ref. 100152.024L DLC

Case & dial
Case: DLC-coated satin-brushed, polished black knurled bezel
Case-back: triple case-back serving as a resonance chamber and enabling underwater use of the alarm function
Dial: black
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Thickness: 17.30 mm
Glass: plexi
Water resistance: 30 ATM

Movement
Vulcain Cricket Manufacture Calibre V-10
Mechanical 12-lignes manually-wound alarm movement, 25 jewels, 157 parts, twin barrels, equipped with Exactomatic system, 48° angle of lift
Decoration: nickel coating, blued screws
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: 42 hours
Alarm duration: approx. 20 seconds

Functions
Hours, minutes, central seconds, alarm, Fixed dial with decompression-table indication and
60-minute graduated rotating inner bezel ring activated by a screw locked crown at 4 o’clock

Strap
Strap: rubberised waterproofed leather black
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: DLC-coated steel pin buckle

VULCAIN UN ÉTÉ À CHAMPÉRY Limited Edition

Swiss luxury watch brand VULCAIN unveils a new limited edition timepiece to honour the village of Champéry, Switzerland.

Champéry is a magnificent mountain village in the canton of Valais. Its single main road is lined with chalets typical of the val d’illiez. Their imposing facades conceal a wealth of mountain-style and modern interiors, a discreet luxury cherished by a well-heeled clientele with a preference for a humble, simple approach to life. Champéry is indeed a destination where modesty, respect and discretion reign supreme, thereby making it an unspoilt place, a true gem at the foot of the Dents du midi. The Vulcain watch manufacturer now pays tribute to it with a limited series of 23 exceptional timepieces.

Their pink gold cases frame dials that are entirely handcrafted by artisans mastering the centuries-old tradition of Grand Feu champlevé enamelling. The steeple and the main street of the village are so meticulously depicted that it takes a watchmaker’s eyepiece to appreciate each and every detail.

Living in their village nestling at the bottom of the Val d’Illiez, the population of Champéry, like the first watchmakers of the Jura, was essentially rural. Life was harsh, but this valley that turned so green and lush in summer was fertile and yielded sufficient food for its inhabitants. Its charm was soon discovered by the first foreign tourists who marvelled at the majestic presence of the Dents du Midi, appreciated the pleasant, gentle summers in the village, the coolness of the Vièze river and the conviviality of the natives.

It was in 1855 that the word “tourist” first appeared in the “livre des étrangers” (outside visitors’ register), making Champéry one of Switzerland’s oldest tourist sites. Three years later, in 1858, the Ditisheim brothers set up in La Chaux-de-Fonds their company that would give rise to the Vulcain brand and write a fresh page of Swiss watchmaking tradition.

While the Dents du Midi was to attract many tourists as well as hiking and sports enthusiasts, it also inspired many locals to become climbers. La Haute Cime (3,257 metres high) was scaled for the first time in 1784 by Jean-Maurice Clément, the scholarly vicar of Champéry.

The history of Vulcain is also intimately bound up with the mountains, since from the 1930s onwards; the sales representatives of the brand from La Chaux-de-Fonds began placing its watches on the wrists of experienced sportsmen.

In 1945, a team of 14 Italian alpinists including Walter Bonatti, one of the country’s most famous mountaineers, set off to conquer the second highest peak in the world, the K2 (8,620 metres high). On July 31st 1954, Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni reached the summit, each with a Vulcain alarm watch on his wrist.

Today, the path of Champéry symbolically crosses that of Vulcain with a limited edition of 23 exceptional timepieces.

The number 23 was chosen in honour of the steeple and bell on which work began in 1723. The church, which is depicted on the dial, is indeed the soul of the village, the place where its inhabitants and tourists gather to pray together and to celebrate various milestones in the lives of parishioners.

Somewhat like a church bell, the striking of the Vulcain Cricket calibre punctuates the passing of time and provides a daily reminder of our obligations. It was thus the perfect medium for this celebration.

Since the start of the 20th century, technicians had been seeking to create an alarm watch, a quest that raised the difficult and apparently insoluble problem of housing an alarm mechanism within the limited space of a normal-sized wristwatch. All attempts made up until then – a bell, an easel comprising the acoustic organs, and even a claw gently scratching the wearer’s wrist – had yielded disappointing results. The Manufacture Vulcain was to have the honour of giving Swiss watchmaking the first alarm wristwatch that truly rang out as loudly as a large alarm clock, and of which the strident chirping was as insistent as that of a cricket hence the name.

Renowned for its iconic models and its unique mechanical movements, the Manufacture Vulcain has a place all its own within the world of Fine Watchmaking.

Active since 1858 in the making of exceptional watches, the company now located in a mansion in Le Locle, a cradle of Swiss watchmaking, has constantly produced timepieces meeting the diverse requirements of the passing eras.

Innovating in order to offer products worthy of the future; exploring Vulcain’s rich history in order to perpetuate its expertise and reveal its original character: such are the principles governing the daily work of the master watchmakers exercising their skills within the Manufacture. In addition to the fabled Cricket alarm calibre that continues to beat at the heart of the brand’s iconic models, the Manufacture has successfully established itself by offering legendary models bound up with the fabulous history of Vulcain. The brand continues to forge its exemplary foundation around its two pillars and their undeniable evocative power.

Among the various techniques used in enamelling, this theme is expressed through that of Grand Feu champlevé enamelling embodying a perfect match between the art of engraving and that of the enamel artisans. It consists in creating cells of various depths in the underlying material, thereby achieving a great variety of colour through the transparency effects created by the enamels.

The artisan gently fills each cavity with enamel using a goose feather or a fine brush, repeating this operation as often as necessary to create an optimal appearance featuring subtly graded shades of colour. These successive layers of enamel are coated with transparent enamel known as fondant (flux).

Next is the lapping or sanding stage, which is performed with a diamond file in order to level out and smooth the enamel and to reveal the metal composing the walls of the enamel cavities, as well as the larger parts to be engraved.

 

Once this operation is complete, the engraver works over all the metal parts with a burin or graver, in order to restore them to a vivid shine: this is a very tricky step, since some borders are only 2/10ths of a mm thick, while the enamel itself cannot withstand pressure and is liable to crack at any moment – thus ruining all efforts expended up until that point.

Each dial involves more than a week’s work, between engraving the base plate through to retouching after enamelling, along with a minimum of 15 firings in the kiln heated to a temperature of around 800 degrees Celsius.

Technical details

Model: UN ÉTÉ À CHAMPÉRY by Vulcain
Ref. 200550.339L
23-piece limited edition

Case
Case: 5N 18K pink gold
Case-back: solid, hand-engraved
Dial: champlevé enamel
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Thickness: 14.60 mm
Glass: cambered glare proofed sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5 ATM

Movement
Manufacture Vulcain Self-Winding Cricket Calibre V-20
12-lignes unidirectional mechanical selfwinding alarm movement, ceramic ball bearings, 31 jewels, 229 parts, twin barrel, equipped with Exactomatic system, 48° lift angle
Decoration: rhodium coating, Côtes de Genève motif, blued screws
Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds, alarm
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: 42 hours
Duration of the alarm: approx. 20 seconds

Strap
Strap: black Louisiana alligator leather
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: 5N 18K pink gold pin buckle

VULCAIN – Nautical Seventies Vulcain Trophy 2013 Limited Edition

A faithful replica of the 1970 Vulcain Nautical model; the iconic diver’s watch returns in a 100-piece limited edition with a resolutely vintage look. A fascinating compendium of the identity codes that have forged the legend of the first diver’s watch equipped with an alarm movement truly audible underwater, the new Nautical Seventies Vulcain Trophy Limited Edition is water-resistant to 300 metres and indicates the successive decompression stops.

When first launched in 1961, the Cricket Nautical was truly avant-garde in all respects. For the first time ever, a wristwatch was capable of descending to 300 metres and audibly warning its wearer that it was time to the surface, while precisely indicating the various decompression stops. At the heart of this model that made an indelible imprint on sports- dedicated horology beat the already legendary Cricket alarm calibre. The Vulcain Cricket Nautical caused an immediate sensation in the field of deep-sea diving.

Endowed with technical characteristics meeting diver’s security requirements, this model stemmed from a pooling of various competencies:  those of the three experts with whom the Vulcain constructors chose to associate in developing the first diver’s watch equipped with an alarm audible under water.

Together, these  three specialists – Hannes Keller, a multiple record-holding  diver and mathematician; explorer and film director Max- Yves Brandily; and Arthur Droz, national diving instruction  and representative of the French C.I.A.S. (Centre d’Investigations  et d’Activités Sous-Marines) – drew upon their  considerable experience in helping the Manufacture Vulcain  to create the first watch complete with an alarm, a clear  indication of decompression steps, as well as guaranteed  water resistance to 300 m.

In 1970, Vulcain introduced a new version of its legendary Nautical featuring a redesigned display layout and now reissued in a 100-piece limited series. While the 2013 Nautical Seventies Vulcain Trophy Limited Edition has been made using the latest technical innovations, the original vintage spirit has been carefully preserved. It’s all there: starting with the manually-wound Cricket V-10 capable of sounding its alarm in a clearly audible manner for up to 20 seconds under water.

Equipped with twin barrels – one to supply the energy required for the hour, minute and seconds functions, and the other to power the alarm function –, this movement finely crafted by Vulcain beats at a speed of 18,000 vibrations per hour and has a 42-hour power reserve.

Exactly like the original, the 42 mm case water-resistant to 300 metres features alternating polished and satin-brushed finishes, and is distinguished by its emblematic triple case- back acting as a resonance chamber for the alarm so as to ensure maximum effectiveness. This intensity is further accentuated by a hesalite watch glass – the original material used in 1970 and serving to amplify the sound.

The Nautical Seventies Vulcain Trophy Limited Edition owes both its aesthetic and its device to its predecessor. The central dial indicating decompression details in blue colours remains fixed in place, while the 60-minute graduated rotating inner bezel ring is activated by a screw-locked crown at 4 o’clock. Thanks to generous luminescent hands and square hour-markers, the readability of this watch remains optimal even in the underwater depths.

The comfortable and sturdy strap in water-repellent leather  adds the final vintage touch to the Nautical Seventies Vulcain  Trophy Limited Edition, available in a 100-piece limited  series.

Technical details
Nautical Seventies Vulcain Trophy 2013
100-piece Limited Edition

Case & Dial
Case: 316L steel
Back: triple case-back serving as a resonance chamber  and enabling underwater use of the alarm function and  engraved with the inscription «Vulcain Trophy»
Dial: blue re-edition of the 1970s model
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Thickness: 17.60 mm
Glass: hesalite
Water resistance: 300 metres / 990 feet

Movement
Mechanical 12-lignes manually-wound alarm movement, 25 jewels, 157 parts, twin barrels, equipped with Exactomatic system, 48° angle of lift
Decoration: nickel coating, blued screws
Functions: hours, minutes, central seconds, alarm, fixed dial with decompression-table indication and 60-minute graduated rotating inner bezel ring activated by a screwlocked crown at 4 o’clock
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: 42 hours
Alarm duration: approx. 20 seconds

Strap
Black and blue water-repellent leather
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: steel pin buckle

* Organised by the Association des Multicoques de Compétition,  the Vulcain Trophy is an annual competition  composed of regattas reserved exclusively for Decision  35 multihulls.

VULCAIN 50s Presidents’ Watch «Edition France»

Swiss luxury watch Manufacture Vulcain pays tribute to France in a 50-piece limited edition of its famous alarm timepiece, the 50s Presidents’ Watch. France has always held a special place in Vulcain’s history since it was founded in 1858. Creations by the Manufacture soon achieved impressive success on this market.

In 1889, at the World’s Fair held in Paris at the foot of the recently erected Eiffel Tower, Vulcain attracted attention with its rich range of simple or complicated pocket-watches. These included the “La Vallée de l’Arve” Grande Complication model with grand strike, minute repeater, perpetual calendar and moon phases that won a bronze medal.

France also played a key role in the birth of the Cricket calibre that earned Vulcain international fame. In 1943, at a time when Vulcain’s Managing Director Robert Dittisheim was seeking to develop the first genuinely functional wristwatch capable of awakening even the deepest sleeper, French physicist Paul Langevin paid him a visit in La Chaux-de- Fonds.

During a stroll through the garden, the latter assured him that of a tiny creature like the cricket could make a sound that was audible from a distance of 30 metres, a small case housing a complex mechanism must be able to match such a performance. Buoyed by this scientific support, Robert Dittisheim pursued his research that was to lead in 1947 to the launch of the calibre with twin calibres (one for the movement and the other for the alarm) named the Cricket as a nod to the insect’s strident song.

The Cricket watch appealed to many prominent statesmen, including Truman, Eisenhower, Nixon and Johnson – a fact that earned it the famous moniker as “The watch of Presidents” or “The Presidents’ Watch”.

It was also a great success in France, even starring on the wrist of Eddie Constantine in Votre dévoué Blake, a film directed by Jean Laviron and released in 1954. Since Vulcain’s return to the forefront of the watchmaking scene, the French market has always been among the leading followers of the brand and of its new models. French retailers have also proven extremely active in supporting this renewal, and the Manufacture is keenly aware of the daily significance of their backing.

In homage to France and to the enthusiasm for the brand shown by French customers, Vulcain is innovating by introducing its first ever watch specifically dedicated to a nation. This 50-piece limited edition of the iconic 50s Presidents’ Watch features a 42 mm steel case housing the legendary mechanical manually-wound Cricket V-16 alarm movement equipped with the brand-patented Exactomatic system ensuring improved rating regularity on the wrist. Particular care has been lavished on the polished and satin-brushed finish of the case that lends a chic and vintage touch.

The sunburst silver-toned dial with applied hour-markers is distinguished by its aura of elegant understatement expressed through hours, minutes and seconds hands along with a date window at 6 o’clock. Finally, the owner of this limited-edition timepiece can precisely adjust the alarm time thanks to a central hand tipped with a black arrow gliding across the graduated scale around the outer rim of the dial.

The case-back is engraved with the name of the watch, the individual series number as well as a crown of laurels – a symbol of strength, of victory and accomplishment – as well as of peace, knowledge and creativity. One also notes the choice of the colour blue for the Vulcain logo, the sweep seconds hand and the alarm markings.

The sapphire crystal window provides an admirable view of the refined movement finishing (Côtes de Genève, anthracite treatment, blued screws and openworked ratchet-wheel), topped by the V for Vulcain. Each of the watches in this special edition comes with its individual certificate.

Atelier du Bracelet Parisien – ABP
Paying tribute to French expertise, tradition and excellence, the Manufacture Vulcain has chosen to associate with the famous ABP company located in Paris on the Marché-Saint- Honoré. “Leather artisan, time machine, zoo or travel agency”: the Atelier du Bracelet Parisien (ABP) is all of that rolled into one. Above all, it is a firm dedicated to hand craftsmanship. All the straps and other products are entirely made in the Parisian workshop. Enthusiasts can choose from a vast array of hides, colours, shapes, tanning processes and thicknesses. Each strap is thus entirely hand-crafted according to the most stringent quality criteria.

Technical details
50s Presidents’ Watch «Edition France»
50-piece limited edition

Case, dial & strap
Case: 316L steel
Case-back: sapphire crystal featuring the stylised V for Vulcain
Dial: sunburst silver-toned with rhodiumed hour-markers
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Thickness: 12.40 mm
Glass: domed glareproofed sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 50 metres /5 ATM

Movement
MANUFACTURE VULCAIN CRICKET CALIBRE V-16
Movement: 12-lignes mechanical hand-wound movement with date, finely crafted Côtes de Genève finishing, 22 jewels, 191 parts, twin barrels equipped with Exactomatic system, 48° angle of lift
Decoration: meticulous finishing with anthracite treatment, blued screws, openworked ratchet-wheel
Functions: central hours, minutes and seconds, alarm, date window at 6 o’clock
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 42 hours
Alarm duration: approx. 20 seconds

ABP STRAP
Strap: chestnut brown alligator leather with large scales, seamless grained calfskin lining
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: steel pin buckle

Vulcain 50s Presidents’ Moonphase

To commemorate the 60th anniversary of its iconic moon-phase and complete calendar watch, Swiss luxury watch brand Vulcain unveils  a contemporary interpretation of the Fifties spirit with its new 50s Presidents’ Moonphase watch. Elegance, understatement and classicism are nurtured by the original style to compose a model epitomising horological fine craftsmanship.

The history of the Manufacture Vulcain is filled with remarkable creations, of which the 1953 complete calendar and moonphase model is a particularly striking example. Loyal to the historical model, the night star displays its cycles at 6 o’clock on the new 50s Presidents’ Moonphase, encircled by the date. The highly legible minute track is even purer than in the past, while the dauphine-type hands maintain their original shape, thus accentuating the vintage spirit of this model.

The day and month apertures stand out in the upper part of the sunburst dial, available in several shades – silver-toned, charcoal grey or blue – and setting a perfect stage for the rhodiumed or pink numerals and hour-markers. Framing this distinctive face is a 42 mm-diameter steel or rose gold case that is water-resistant to 50 metres. Its slender bezel is topped by a cambered, glare-proofed sapphire crystal conferring an elegant sense of depth.

The 50s Presidents’ Moonphase is equipped with the bidirectional Vulcain Calibre V-58, equipped with hour, minute, seconds, moonphase and complete calendar functions. This precise and efficient mechanical movement oscillates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and has a 42-hour power reserve. Its finely crafted Haute Horlogerie finishes, including a Côtes de Genève motif, blued screws and a rhodiumed treatment, may be admired through the sapphire crystal case-back.

Available in black or chestnut brown versions, the Louisiana alligator leather strap fitted with an 18K rose gold or steel pin buckle sets the finishing touch and ensures a blend of refinement and wearer comfort.

A glowing tribute to the glorious Fifties that forged the legend of the Manufacture Vulcain, the 50s Presidents’ Moonphase revisits its past while heralding its future, offering vivid proof that time has no hold on timeless classics.

Technical details

Model: Presidents’ Moonphase

References
580558.330L – 18ct Rose gold model
580158.328L – 316 steel model

Case
Case: 5N 18K rose gold or 316 steel
Case-back: sapphire crystal
Dial: sunburst silver-toned with pink hour-markers, sunburst charcoal grey with rhodiumed hour-markers
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Thickness: 11.00 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 50 metres

Movement
Vulcain Self-Winding Calibre V-58
11½ -ligne mechanical bidirectional selfwinding
Moon phase display, 25 jewels, 93 parts, 47° angle of lift
Enriched with complete calendar model comprising 54 parts
Decoration: rhodiumed treatment, Côtes de Genève, blued screws
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: 42 hours

Functions
Complete calendar
Hours, minutes, centre seconds
Large moonphase and date display at 6 o’clock
Day and month windows at 12 o’clock
Correctors at 2, 4, 8 and 10 o’clock

Strap
Strap: black or chestnut brown Louisiana alligator leather
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: 5N 18K rose gold or steel pin buckle

VULCAIN – Aviator GMT Pilot & Aviator GMT Pilot DLC

Boosting its famous Cricket alarm movement with a 24-hour worldtime display; Swiss watch manufacture Vulcain launches the Aviator GMT Pilot model –an exceptional wrist-worn mechanical instrument dedicated to flyers.

The story begins in the 1950s, when two flagships of Swiss industry crossed paths as the Swissair Airline Company decided to equip all its pilots with a Cricket watch by Vulcain. The already legendary alarm calibre circled the globe in all directions as the loyal companions of aircraft captains, reminding them with its inimitable audible signal that it was time to perform certain gestures at critical moments, as well as showing them the local time in their destinations anywhere in the world thanks to the worldtimer function.

Since then, Vulcain has dedicated a full-fledged Aviator collection to cater need of the pilots. This line featuring a blend of style and performance now welcomes a new model capable of appearing in both vintage and contemporary versions. Its name is the Aviator GMT Pilot, and because high standards and performance go hand in hand for these professionals, the Vulcain Cricket V-10 was a natural choice as the movement powering this wristworn flight instrument.

This movement exclusive to the brand combines the famous alarm that has punctuated Vulcain’s finest hours since 1947 with a worldtimer function. The latter enables the user to read off on the rotating inner bezel ring the specific time in the cities representing all 24 time zones. This manually-wound twin-barrel movement, equipped with the Exactomatic system ensuring regular amplitude and thus optimal precision, is endowed with a 42-hour power reserve.

The satin-brushed 42 mm-diameter steel case features a cambered glare-proofed sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 100 metres. It is fitted with a triple case-back acting as a resonance chamber and diffusing the sound of the alarm for a full 20 seconds. A pusher at 2 o’clock triggers the alarm, while a screw-lock crown at 4 o’clock serves to adjust the 24-hour worldtimer function.

In its vintage interpretation, the Aviator GMT Pilot comes with a matt black dial bearing generous gold-toned Superluminova-coated numerals, while a distressed brown calfskin strap accentuates the overall retro-chic effect. And when it goes for a trendier look, the Aviator GMT Pilot adopts black luminescent numerals set against an extremely contemporary vertical-brushed ruthenium grey dial, echoed by an elegant black Louisiana alligator leather strap complete with steel folding clasp.

Model: AVIATOR GMT PILOT
Ref 100108.333L

Case
Case: satin-brushed 316L steel
Case-back: triple case-back acting as a resonance chamber
Dial: matt black with gold-toned Superluminova numerals
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Hauteur: 13.40 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 100 metres

Movement
Manufacture Vulcain Calibre V-10
12-ligne mechanical manually-wound movement,
25 jewels, 157 parts, twin barrel, equipped with Exactomatic system, 48° angle of lift
Decoration: nickel coating, blued screws
Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds, alarm, 24-hour world-timer function adjustable via a screw-lock crown at 4 o’clock
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: 42 hours
Alarm duration: approximately 20 seconds

Strap
Strap: dark brown vintage-style calfskin leather
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: steel pin buckle or steel folding clasp

AVIATOR GMT PILOT DLC
The eminently virile and contemporary AVIATOR GMT PILOT model sets the stage for its indications with an anthracite black DLC-coated case in satin-brushed   steel that appears to form an inseparable whole with the matt dial and the Louisiana alligator leather strap. Aviator GMT Pilot DLC Limited Edition is available in a 250-piece limited series.

This highly durable, charcoal grey layer with a low friction coefficient consists of an atomic lattice composed of the two forms of carbon: diamond (sp³) and graphite (sp²). Diamondblack™ DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) is applied using a coating process which faithfully mirrors the original surface finishes.

Diamondblack™ DLC consists solely of molecules of carbon and hydrogen arranged in a structure similar to that of diamond, producing a layer with excellent chemical stability and high corrosion resistance. Its proven biocompatibility enables prolonged contact with the skin without causing irritation.

It has a very high level of hardness, around 5,000 Vickers (HV0.025), compared to stainless steel, approximately 200 HV. This high-tech coating is used in the aerospace industry and in any application in which wear-resistance and a low friction coefficient are essential.

Model: AVIATOR GMT PILOT DLC
250-piece limited edition
100108.332DLCL

Case
Case: DLC-coated satin-brushed 316L steel
Case-back: triple case-back acting as a resonance chamber
Dial: matt black with white Superluminova numerals
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Thickness: 13.40 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 100 metres

Movement
Manufacture Vulcain Calibre V-10
12-ligne mechanical manually-wound movement, 25 jewels, 157 parts, twin barrel, equipped with Exactomatic system, 48° angle of lift
Decoration: nickel coating, blued screws
Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds, alarm, 24-hour world-timer function adjustable via a screw-lock crown at 4 o’clock
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: 42 hours
Alarm duration: approximately 20 seconds

Strap
Strap: black Louisiana alligator leather
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: DLC-coated steel pin buckle

Edition
250-piece limited edition

VULCAIN SUBNAUTICAL

In 1961, Swiss watch manufacture Vulcain accomplished a remarkable technical achievement with the first Nautical, a diver’s watch able to descend to a depth of 300 metres. Over 50 years after the Nautical, Vulcain now welcomes a new collection inspired by the fascinating ocean depths: SubNautical.

Also capable of diving to 300 metres, the three first SubNautical models are based on the principle of merging sportiness and elegance to form an indissoluble whole. The 42 mm-diameter steel case features refined polished and satin-brushed finishes, while the cambered sapphire crystal gives a discreet curve to the overall effect.

An ideal companion for underwater adventures, the unidirectional rotating bezel is made from shiny black or blue ceramics and features transferred 60-minute graduations in a choice of gold-toned, white or frosted silver-toned variations – all of which combines to ensure perfect readability even deep below the surface.

The SubNautical beats to the rhythm of the Vulcain bidirectional self-winding Calibre V-56. With a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and a 42-hour power reserve, it has all the assets expected from a finely crafted mechanical movement.

A concern for details extends to all aspects of this model, since the rhodiumed movement is delicately adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif despite the presence of a solid screwed-in case-back. The movement drives hours, minutes and seconds hands, as well as the ever useful date function.

Underscoring the resolutely sporting chic character of this model, the SubNautical by Vulcain is equipped with either a steel bracelet featuring polished and satin-brushed finishes, or a water-repellent black alligator leather strap, both secured to the wrist by a steel folding clasp.

Technical details

Model: SUBNAUTICAL
Reference: 560162.338M

Case and dial
Case: 316L steel
Case-back: screwed in, solid
Dial: midnight blue with nickel-coated hour-markers enhanced with white Superluminova and blue ceramic 60-minute rotating bezel with frosted silver-toned transfers
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Thickness: 12.40 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 300 metres

Movement
Vulcain Self-Winding Calibre V-56
11½-ligne bidirectional mechanical self-winding movement with date, 25 jewels, 93 parts,
47° angle of lift
Decoration: rhodiumed coating, Côtes de Genève, blued screws
Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds, date at 6 o’clock, 60-minute unidirectional rotating bezel
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: 42 hours

Bracelet/Strap
Bracelet/Strap: polished and satin-brushed steel bracelet or water-repellent black alligator leather strap
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: steel folding clasp

VULCAIN – Nautical Seventies Limited Edition

A faithful replica of the 1970 Vulcain Nautical model, the iconic diver’s watch returns in a 300-piece limited edition with a resolutely vintage look. A fascinating compendium of the identity codes that have forged the legend of the first diver’s watch equipped with an alarm movement truly audible underwater, the new Nautical Seventies Limited Edition is water resistant to 300 metres and indicates the successive decompression stops.

When first launched in 1961, the Cricket Nautical was truly avant-garde in all respects. For the first time ever, a wristwatch was capable of descending to 300 metres and audibly warning its wearer that it was time to the surface, while precisely indicating the various decompression stops. At the heart of this model that made an indelible imprint on sports-dedicated horology beat the already legendary Cricket alarm calibre.

The Vulcain Cricket Nautical caused an immediate sensation in the field of deep-sea diving. Endowed with technical characteristics meeting diver’s security requirements, this model stemmed from a pooling of various competencies: those of the three experts with whom the Vulcain constructors chose to associate in developing the first diver’s watch equipped with an alarm audible under water.

Together, these three specialists – Hannes Keller, a multiple record-holding diver and mathematician; explorer and film director Max-Yves Brandily; and Arthur Droz, national diving instruction and representative of the French C.I.A.S. (Centre d’Investigations et d’Activités Sous-Marines) – drew upon their considerable experience in helping the Manufacture Vulcain to create the first watch complete with an alarm, a clear indication of decompression steps, as well as guaranteed water resistance to 300 m.

In 1970, Vulcain introduced a new version of its legendary Nautical featuring a redesigned display layout and now re-issued in a 300-piece limited series. While the 2013 Nautical Seventies Limited Edition has been made using the latest technical innovations, the original vintage spirit has been carefully preserved. It’s all there: starting with the manually-wound Cricket V-10 capable of sounding its alarm in a clearly audible manner for up to 20 seconds under water. Equipped with twin barrels – one to supply the energy required for the hour, minute and seconds functions, and the other to power the alarm function –, this movement finely crafted by Vulcain beats at a speed of 18,000 vibrations per hour and has a 42-hour power reserve.

Exactly like the original, the 42 mm case water-resistant to 300 metres features alternating polished and satin-brushed finishes, and is distinguished by its emblematic triple case-back acting as a resonance chamber for the alarm so as to ensure maximum effectiveness. This intensity is further accentuated by a hesalite watch glass – the original material used in 1970 and serving to amplify the sound.

Offering an identical reproduction of the dial of the 1970 Nautical model, the Nautical Seventies Limited Edition owes both its aesthetic and its device to its predecessor. The central dial indicating decompression details in orange colours remains fixed in place, while the 60-minute graduated rotating inner bezel ring is activated by a screw-locked crown at 4 o’clock.

Thanks to generous luminescent hands and square hour-markers, the readability of this watch remains optimal even in the underwater depths. The comfortable and sturdy strap in water-repellent leather adds the final vintage touch to the Nautical Seventies Limited Edition, available in a 300-piece limited series.

Technical details
Model: Nautical Seventies, 300-piece Limited Edition

Case & dial
Case: 316L steel
Back:triple case-back serving as a resonance chamber and enabling underwater use of the alarm function
Dial: orange re-edition of the 1970s model
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Thickness: 17.60 mm
Glass: hesalite glass
Water resistance: 300 metres / 990 feet

Movement
Vulcain Cricket Manufacture Calibre V-10
Movement: mechanical 12-lignes manually-wound alarm movement, 25 jewels, 157 parts, twin barrels, equipped with Exactomatic system, 48° angle of lift
Decoration: nickel coating, blued screws
Functions: hours, minutes, central seconds, alarm, fixed dial with decompression-table indication and 60-minute graduated rotating inner bezel ring activated by a screwlocked crown at 4 o’clock
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: 42 hours
Alarm duration: approx. 20 seconds

Strap
Strap: black and orange water-repellent leather
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: steel pin buckle

Vulcain 50s Presidents’ Chronograph

Building on a history offering a consistent blend of technical sophistication and precision, the Manufacture Vulcain is re-introducing a modern version of a single-pusher chronograph that became a legend. It was used by the coaches of the Real Madrid football club to time their training sessions, and they ascribed to it their victory in the Spanish Championship at that time. Named the 50s Presidents’ Chronograph, this technical watch is also available in a Heritage version.

Following on from the 50s Presidents’ Watch unveiled in 2010, Vulcain is introducing an exclusive new range of self-winding single-pusher chronographs. Available in two versions, this timepiece highlights one of the major horological complications, combining a sporting and technical nature: the chronograph. Better still, this new Vulcain single-pusher chronograph is inspired by a model that became a favourite with the coaches of the Real Madrid football club when it won the National Championship in 1934.

Those in charge attributed a share of credit for this win to the Vulcain chronograph they had used to time their training sessions. Thus pervaded by the spirit of sport and of history, the new range enjoys strong roots further consolidated by the use of a complication presented in what is now a rare and distinguished version: the single-pusher type.

The first version, the 50s Presidents’ Chronograph, is entirely in tune with the aesthetic codes governing the new range; while the second, the 50s Presidents’ Watch Heritage Chronograph is directly inspired by the dial of the 1934 model. Its calibre is chronometer-certified by the COSC.

Celebrating the classic 1950s design codes, the 50s Presidents’ Chronograph features a blue, silver or charcoal grey dial curved at either end, as was typical in that era. The 12 o’clock numeral is surrounded by diamond polished hour-markers. The dial displays two counters – a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock and a 30-minute chronograph totalizer at 3 o’clock – in a “bicompax” style that was much in vogue at the time. A slightly oversized window at 6 o’clock indicates the date.

Available in 18K rose gold or steel, the 42 mm case is water-resistant to 50 metres. It houses the mechanical selfwinding Vulcain V-57 movement driving the hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock, date at 6 o’clock, central sweep seconds chronograph hand, and 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock. Graced with Vulcain’s characteristic haute horlogerie finishes, such as Côtes de Genève motifs, blued screws and a rhodiumed coating, it is endowed with a 42-hour power reserve.

The new 50s Presidents’ Chronograph is available on a Louisiana alligator leather strap with pin buckle in 18K rose gold or steel, or on a steel bracelet.

Technical details
Model 1: 50s Presidents’ Chronograph Steel 316L (Ref 570157.309L)
Case
Steel 316l – diameter 42.00 mm – length 50.00 mm –
Height 13.75 mm – sapphire case-back
Dial: silver sunray dial with rhodium indexes
Crystal: domed shape sapphire
Water-resistance: 50 meters/160 feets
Strap: louisiana alligator – dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: steel pin buckle

Calibre
Vulcain v-57: 13¼-lignes mechanical automatic single-pusher type chronograph movement, 25
rubies, 105 components, lift angle 50°
Functions: Hour, minute, seconds counters at 9 o’clock, Date window at 6 o’clock, centre second chronograph, 30- Minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock
Frequency: 28’800 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 42 hours
Decoration: côtes de genève motifs, blued screws
Movement coating: rhodium

Model 2: Model 1: 50s Presidents’ Chronograph 18K 5N pink gold (Ref 570557.313L)
Case
18k 5n pink gold – diameter 42.00 mm – length 50.00 mm – height 13.75 mm – sapphire case-back
Dial: charcoal grey sunray dial with 5n pink gold indexes
Crystal: domed shape sapphire
Water-resistance: 50 meters/160 feets
Strap: louisiana alligator – dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: 18k 5n pink gold pin buckle

Calibre
Vulcain v-57: 13¼-lignes mechanical automatic single-pusher type chronograph movement, 25 rubies, 105 components, lift angle 50°
Functions: hour, minute, seconds counters at 9 o’clock, date window at 6 o’clock, centre second chronograph, 30- minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock
Frequency: 28’800 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 42 hours
Decoration: côtes de genève motifs, blued screws
Movement coating: rhodium