Urban Jürgensen

The story begins at the time Christian VI was King of Denmark and Norway, Duke of Schleswig-Holstein, a child named Jürgen Jürgensen was born, and he was to have great significance for watchmaking history. He was both the father of the most famous Danish watchmaker Urban Jürgensen and at the same time the founding father of the horological dynasty which was to revolutionize the outdated structures of the clock and watchmaking craft in Denmark and Switzerland. Through their use of new theoretical findings and practical working methods, they subsequently achieved the highest recognition both in Denmark and Switzerland.

Among the world’s greatest watchmakers of the 18th and 19th centuries, members of the Jürgensen family, notably Urban and Jules, worked alongside other horological geniuses such as Houriet, Breguet, Berthoud and Arnold. They have greatly contributed to the development of horology.

The watchmaking family’s roots stretch back to eighteenth century Denmark and Jörgen Jurgensen (1745-1811), founder of the dynasty. The most eminent watchmakers amongst his descendants are undisputedly his sons Urban (1776-1830) and Jules-Frederik Jûrgensen (1808-1877).

The latter two continued their father’s business by founding Urban Jürgensen & Sonner in Switzerland. Jules moved to Le Locle, Switzerland while his brother Louis was in charge of the factory in Copenhagen. After Louis Urban’s and Jules-Frederik’s deaths, the company went through several more changes of ownership but continued the tradition of chronometric timepieces.

Historical Chronometer Movement

Urban Jürgensen was one of the world’s most prominent watchmakers in the 18th century and contributed significantly to horological developments in fine mechanical watchmaking. As a result of his efforts, he was awarded an appointment as Royal Purveyor to King Frederik VI of Denmark and conferred the honour of the Royal Order of the Dannebrog, regularly supplying timepieces to the court and ship’s chronometers to the Danish Admiralty.

A brilliant and multifaceted talent, Urban Jürgensen achieved great international acclaim for his innovations in technology and science, gaining equal status with his scientific contemporaries. The results of his research were published in 1804 in a series of articles in Danish, French and German, earning him a place in the Royal Danish Academy of Sciences and Letters. He was a brilliant engineer, a visionary far ahead of his time in many respects regarding creativity and aesthetics. As a horologist, inventor and aesthete, he must be considered one of the great talents in Denmark’s history.

Urban Jürgensen

Following the wish of his father Jürgen, Urban Jürgensen, spent a major part of his training as a watchmaker in Paris, London, Geneva and Le Locle in the Canton of Neuchatel, Switzerland. It was under his management that both pocket watches and precision timekeepers for navigation and astronomy made by the Urban Jürgensen Company achieved international fame and recognition. The Danish King, Frederick VI, granted Urban Jürgensen a Royal Appointment to supply the court with watches and the Danish Admiralty with chronometers.

The use of first class materials and the extremely robust design of all the timekeepers made by the company soon made them highly coveted collector’s items, as is still the case today.

In accordance with the practice of the times, Urban Jürgensen’s sons also entered the watchmaking profession and following their father’s footsteps, traveled abroad to study and apprentice as watchmakers. After receiving recognition as masters, they joined their father’s company officially. This led to a change in the company’s structure, which was expressed in the name Urban Jürgensen & Sønner, the same title used by the company today. The sons and grandchildren of this generation went on to ensure the Jürgensen dynasty’s continued existence into the 20th century. One member of the family, Jules Jürgensen, ended up not only studying, but later settling permanently in Le Locle in the 1830s, where he was responsible for an official manufacture under the Urban Jürgensen & Sønner name.

This is the reason why the cities of Copenhagen and Le Locle are incorporated inthe company logo, as a reference to the Danish and Swiss roots of the firm together with the date of its initial founding. The Jürgensen, with their analytical approach to the processes and methods of watch production, exercised a tremendous influence on the watchmaking industry of Le Locle,and indeed the entire Canton of Neuchatel, introducing the most modern methods to the Swiss industry of the era, for which they received many accolades and were endowed with honorary status from the city of Le Locle.

In 1981, Peter Baumberger, a trained watchmaker and passionate collector, acquired Urban Jürgensen & Sonner and is the congenial successor of Urban Jürgensen’s spirit. Dr Helmut Crott became the guardian of the brand since his friend Mr Baumberger’s death.

Since its establishment, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner always cultivated a policy of maximum quality in the art of horology, with particular efforts directed at the technical perfection of the movement combined with artistically designed cases, dials and hands of classical elegance.

 

Jürgensen Dynasty
Jürgen Jürgensen (1745 -1811): Jürgen Jürgensen was born in 1745 in Copenhagen. Between 1759 and 1765 he worked with Johnas Jacob Lincke as an apprentice. In 1768 Jürgen Jürgensen moved to Le Locle and worked with Jacques-Frédéric Houriet, the renowned Swiss watch maker who was known as the Father of Swiss Chronometry.

He established a watchmaking factory in Copenhagen in 1775 and he coined the brand name Larpent & Jürgensen in 1780s in partnership with Isaac Larpent, a renowned Danish watch maker. In 1781 Larpent & Jürgensen started the production of pocket watches. In 1784, Jürgen Jürgensen was appointed as the Court horologist by King Fredrik VI.

Urban Jürgensen (1775 -1830): Urban Jürgensen was born in 1775 in Copenhagen. Following the footsteps of father, Urban Jürgensen travelled all the way to Le Locle to study precision timekeeping with Houriet. Under the guidance of this genius horologer, young Urban brushed up his watchmaking skills. Urban Jürgensen married Sophie-Henriette Houriet, daughter of his master.

Jacques-Frédéric Houriet & His Daughter,
Sophie-Henriette Houriet

In 1798, Urban Jürgensen introduced the steel cylinder escape wheel. He then moved to Paris to study with Breguet, and in the following year he travelled to London to study with Arnold. In 1801, Urban Jürgensen introduced his Bimetallic Thermometer.

In 1810, Urban Jürgensen started the production of marine Chronometers and in the same year he was awarded the Daneborg order, a prestigious award by the king of Denmark. In 1815, Urban Jürgensen was accepted into the Royal Danish Academy of Science, a non-governmental science Academy, founded in 1742 for the advancement of science in Denmark.

Marine Chronometer, Circa 1811

In 1818, Urban Jürgensen started the supply of Marine and deck chronometers to the Royal navy.In 1821, Urban Jürgensen introduced the famous Krusenstern Chronometers and in the following year he announced his new, detached double wheel chronometer escapement.

Krusenstern Chronometer

Louis Urban Jürgensen and Jules Jürgensen: In 1830, on demise of Urban Jürgensen, his two sons Louis Urban and Jules continue the company under the name UJS (Urban Jürgensen & Sønner). In the same year Louis Urban Jürgensen introduced his first marine chronometer.

In the following years, Jules Jürgensen introduced precision horology and quality improvements into the manufactures of Canton Neuchatel, settling permanently in Le Locle. Jules Jürgensen Copenhagen was established.

In 1836, UJS received the Grand medal of the Copenhagen Industrial Exhibition. In 1850s legendary watchmakers Victor Kullberg and Moritz Grossmann were worked for Louis Urban Jürgensen. In 1852, Louis Urban Jürgensen awarded 2 medals at the Great exhibition in London.

In 1867, Jules Jürgensen patented his hand setting mechanism. In 1871, Jules Jürgensen was awarded a gold medal at the maritime exhibition in Naples. In 1873, Jules Jürgensen was awarded a gold medal at the Copenhagen industrial exhibition and in 1874 he was awarded Knight of the Legion d’Honneur.

Jacques Alfred Jürgensen: In 1893, Jacques Alfred Jürgensen was awarded gold medal at the international exhibition in Chicago and he received a gold medal at the National exhibition in Geneva in 1896. In 1912, Jacques Alfred Jürgensen died.

1912 – No More a Family Owned Company
After the death of Jacques Alfred Jürgensen, the last watch maker from the family, the company and brand names were transferred to the hands of new owner. In 1919, Jules Jürgensen Copenhagen started to manufacture wristwatches. The control of company, which had production sites at Copenhagen and Le Locle passed through several hands such as E. Heuer (From 1919 – 1936), Aisenstein-Woronock (From 1936 – 1974) and Mort Clayman (From 1974 to 1979). The New York based watch business group Aisenstein-Woronock & Sons continued to produce watches under the Jules Jürgensen brand name and they were mainly marketed in USA. Mort Clayman, who took over the brand in 1974, did not succeed to revive the legendary watch brand.

1980s – Revival of the brand in its original spirit
In 1980s, Peter Baumberger, a trained watchmaker and passionate collector, acquired Urban Jürgensen & Sonner and is the congenial successor of Urban Jürgensen’s spirit. P. Baumberger with his small team of skilled master watchmakers produced small series of traditionally made, complicated timepieces, ranging from 50 to 300 examples, at the privately-owned firm in Bienne, Switzerland.

In 1979, Peter Baumberger was granted permission by the owner of the UJS brand to sign his watches Urban Jürgensen & Sønner. From1982, he commercially launched Urban Jürgensen & Sønner Ref. 1 Calendar Chronograph in limited edition of 186 pieces, which heralded the revival of the legendary watch brand. In 1985, Peter Baumberger formally acquired Urban Jürgensen & Sønner.

Derek Pratt became the master watchmaker for Urban Jürgensen .This extremely talented watchmaker realized many exclusive pieces for the brand including the “Tribute Oval Tourbillon Pocket watch” – a one-of-the kind timepiece referring to all the watchmakers he admired. He passed away in 2009.

Tribute Oval Tourbillon Pocket watch

In 1990, Peter Baumberger presented the Ref. 2 Perpetual calendar wrist watch, produced in 62 examples. The models ref 3 to ref 10 followed. These watches signed under Urban Jürgensen & Sønner brand name were produced in small series from 50 up to a maximum of 300 examples. These watches were mainly based on ébauche movements from Frédéric Piguet, Le Brassus.

UJS Reference 10 – Perpetual Calender Small Seconds

In 2003, Peter Baumberger initiated his plan for a new in house calibre and in 2008; he acquired a worldwide patent for the new in house calibre with a detent escapement. In 2009, a prototype wristwatch with the patented detent escapement is presented for the first time at Baselworld. Unfortunately, the sudden demise of Peter Baumberger in 2009 resulted a huge loss to Urban Jürgensen & Sønner and Switzerland’s traditional watch making industry.

After Peter Baumberger’ death, his friend and horology specialist, Dr Helmut Crott took over as CEO of Urban Jürgensen & Sønner. Dr Helmut Crott became the owner of Urban Jürgensen & Sønner and Jules Jürgensen, and both brands began to operate under same roof. Dr Helmut Crott, a medical doctor turned horology specialist has been associated with horology industry since 1972 as a consultant of fine luxury watches.

Dr Helmut Crott

In 2011, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner presented the prototype of the breakthrough UJS-P8 movement. The newly introduced Urban Jürgensen Reference 11 represents the first time thatthe chronometer escapement has been used in a wristwatch. The invention is the result of several years’ development work and has been patented worldwide.

2014: Urban Jürgensen Back in Danish Hands
In the case of Urban Jürgensen’s 240 years of history there were several events that can be described as historic recurrence, the most recent happened in 2013 and it lead to Urban Jürgensen returning to Danish ownership.

In 1976, the 200th anniversary of Urban Jürgensen’s birth was celebrated by the watchmaker’s guild in Copenhagen. At the same time, the shop bearing Jürgensen’s name had a small exhibition of timepieces from the past. A young watchmaker by the name Peter Baumberger was passing through Copenhagen looking for antiques when he saw the exhibition in the shop.Peter Baumberger had a vision whilst standing there in Gundesen’s shop. Of course Urban Jürgensen’s timepieces were well known to him, but the idea of buying the shop, including the trademark “Urban Jürgensen”, was a challenge that was too irresistible for him. In 1979, UJS owner granted permission to Peter Baumberger to sign his watches Urban Jürgensen & Sønner. He finally acquired the Company in 1985.

In 2013, the story would repeat itself when a Danish watch collector was presented with an Urban Jürgensen watch in the store that used to be Urban Jürgensen’s atelier centuries ago.

He was looking for the perfect gentleman’s watch; the sales manager proceeded to hand him an Urban Jurgensen Ref. 2 in yellow gold. He was stunned by the sheer level of handcraft and attention to detail the Urban Jurgensen watch exuded and ended up being the lucky owner of number 23 of this limited edition watch. He was given the book “The Jurgensen Dynasty” which helped him to learn about the company’s 240 year history. The choices the company had made in execution of the handcrafted watch were simply awe inspiring.

This watch collector was Soren Petersen and for him as Peter Baumberger felt 40 years prior, the idea of acquiring the Urban Jürgensen company was a challenge to irresistible to pass. After 30 years of foreign ownership, the 14th of November 2014, a Danish Private Investment Group took over the company, included in this group was Soren Petersen, who was appointed President and CEO.

For the past 30 years, Peter Baumberger, Derek Pratt and lately Dr. Helmut Crott has been steering the company forward with concepts for new calibres and a clear foundation for the 21st century. The new ownership plans to build upon this foundation producing complicated timepieces in classically beautiful styles deploying the traditional highly specialized forms of craftsmanship that will honour the long established timeless traditions of the company.

UJS-P8 movement
In 2011, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner presented the prototype of the breakthrough UJS-P8 movement, the world’s first wristwatch movement utilizing a chronometer escapement, thus connecting the marine chronometers and clocks made by the firm in the 18th and 19th centuries directly to the world of watchmaking in the 21st. The extreme precision and accuracy of the detent escapement, which lies at the heart of defining a true chronometer, ranks far above the tourbillon in accuracy and horological importance.

Pivoted Detent Escapement

Nonetheless, until now it was considered an impossibility to successfully implement it in a modern wristwatch. In the 18th and 19th centuries it was used exclusively in ship’s chronometers, built to withstand the motion of the open sea, always with the dial facing upwards in a gimbal mounting and set within a closed box. The demands on a detent escapement fit for the21st century are quite different indeed. In today’s world, the day-to-day shocks of life on the wrist are extreme compared to this marine environment and therefore the original escapement concept had to be altered.

Additionally, this step required smaller dimensions in order to make the detent escapement practical and accurate for modern times. After several years of research and the expenditure of vast funds, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner were successful in creating a new detent movement and far beyond that – the new movement was found to be so robust that it passed Chronofiable® testing, one of the toughest standards in Switzerland for wrist watches, with flying colours. This success closed the circle between the company’s past and present, in an elegant and mechanically perfect way, completely in line with the company’s standards and traditions.

Unveiled at Baselworld 2011, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner’s Reference P8 Chronometer is the world’s first wristwatch with a detent escapement. The new Chronometer P8 “with detent escapement” – adapted to the mechanical wristwatch – achieves a 40% better timing performance than the average COSC certified chronometer.

The collection was again updated in the following years P8 Chronometer Ref. 11C Automatic (2012) and Montre observatoire émail dial – Limited Edition (2013). At Baselworld 2014, Urban Jürgensen & Sonner presented the Tourbillon Minute Repeater Enamel Regulator and the Reference 11 C P8Chronometer with Central Second.

240 years of legacy
In 2013 the book, The Jürgensen Dynasty – Four centuries of watchmaking in two countries (in English) by John M.R. Knudsen was published and this book provides the full history of a unique family of watchmakers. First published exclusively in Danish and quickly sold out, this new and completely updated English edition (2013) provides the full history of a unique family of  watchmakers in 368 pages and more then 560 illustrations.

2021

A team of passionate investors led by master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen acquired Urban Jürgensen. Now onwards, after Sales Service of all Urban Jürgensen watches will be led by Venla Voutilainen, working in close collaboration with her father, Kari.

Contact details
Urban Jürgensen
Rue de Boujean 77
2502 Bienne/Biel
Switzerland 
https://www.urbanjurgensen.com

Urban Jürgensen Big 8 ‘London Edition’

Urban Jürgensen in partnership its UK retailer A Collected Man has created the Big 8 ‘London Edition’ timepiece. Exclusively retailed through A Collected Man, this timepiece is distinguished by its custom-made, racing green dial, closed date aperture and stainless-steel case. It is limited to 10 pieces.

Its dial is executed in British racing green, which takes its name from the green international motor racing colour of the United Kingdom. The hand-finished, engine-turned guilloché dial requires up to 700 operations and two full days of hand craftsmanship to complete. Manufactured from one piece of solid silver, the racing green colour is added thanks to a 3-day colouring process through Physical Vapor Deposition (or PVD). The centre section of the dial is finished with a Clous de Paris pattern, instead of the more traditional guilloché usually found on the Big 8. This fine pattern creates a surface ‘shimmering’ effect, owing to a selection of carefully considered grain sizes and geometrical patterns.

Urban Jürgensen Big 8 ‘London Edition’

In stark contrast to the dark green portions, the dial further features a circular brushed chapter ring, with Roman numerals and a pearled outer-minute track. The font of the Roman numerals has been updated to a curved, slightly more contemporary, design, concealing the 6’clock numeral completely. The small seconds indication is also executed in racing green, with a Guilloché Panier finishing applied. For the sake of simplicity, the date window (usually placed at within the subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock) has been closed.

Urban Jürgensen Big 8 ‘London Edition’

The handmade, solid white gold ‘Observatoire’ Urban Jürgensen hands are turned on a precision lathe, thermally blued (to Urban Jürgensen’s unique navy colour) and mirror-polished, with the arms of the hands carefully riveted in place, creating a unique visual effect reminiscent of early 18th and 19th century marine chronometers made by Urban Jürgensen. The “eye” of the hour hand is a solid gold insert, concentrically diamond polished and friction fit.

The Big 8 features a 40 mm stainless steel case and the brand’s distinctive teardrop lugs and convex bezel. Forged separately from the case, the classic teardrop lugs are carefully heat-treated, hand-polished and individually soldered into place using mid-century horological methods, with no visible soldering line.

Urban Jürgensen Big 8 ‘London Edition’

The upgraded F. Piguet Caliber FP 1160 is expertly finished and elaborately hand-decorated, featuring a 21k gold Guilloché rotor, signed with the Urban Jürgensen crest. This automatically wound movement is adjusted to heat, cold, isochronism and 5 positions, with 31 working jewels.

The ‘Swiss Lever’ escapement design of the modified F. Piguet 1160 movement allows the balance wheel to be engaged with the mechanism only during the split-second it swings through its centre position, reducing overall friction and enabling far superior timekeeping ability. The FP 1160 movement is elegantly discrete, at 5.20mm x 32mm, with two barrels and a power-reserve of 48 hours.

Urban Jürgensen Big 8 ‘London Edition’

A limited edition of 10 pieces, each of the brand new Big 8 ‘London Edition’ watches are numbered on the caseback, indicating their order in the production run. They all come as a complete set, with box and papers, and are fitted with a custom-made brown nubuck strap and an Urban Jürgensen stainless steel tang buckle.

A Collected Man will be donating all profits from the sale of these 10 pieces to Wellcome Trust, in their efforts to fund testing, treatment and vaccine development.

 

Urban Jürgensen – Jürgensen One Collection: Reference 5241 and Reference 5541 GMT

Continuing its extraordinary 245 years of fine watchmaking, Urban Jürgensen takes a bold new step and presents the Jürgensen One Collection with 4 new timepieces in the vaunted luxury stainless steel category.

The Reference 5241 is available with Soft White, Charcoal Grey and Urban Blue dial color, and is an automatic three hand timepiece with date and sweep seconds.

The Reference 5541 GMT available exclusively in Urban Blue is an automatic GMT timepiece with two pushers for forward/backward correction of the central hour hand with unidirectional date change, sweep seconds and a 24 hour subdial for home time.

Both references are crafted entirely from Medical Grade 1.4441 steel, including the integrated steel bracelet with butterfly double secure locking clasp, and are waterproof to 120 meters.

The new Jürgensen One Collection is expected to be available at authorized retail partners starting in April for Ref 5241 and June for Ref 5541 GMT.

Technical details

Reference 5241

Urban Jürgensen Automatic P5 Movement
Mirror polished steel open worked hands, thermally blued on the Soft White variant
Hands and hour markers inlaid with blue/green Super-LumiNova
Maritime wave style grains d´orge guilloche dial in Soft White
Case: Medical Grade 1.4441 steel; Diameter 41 mm
Water resistance 120 meters
Individually soldered lugs
Integrated bracelet with Satin brushed links and mirror polished oval duo-shape interlinks
Butterfly double synchro – secured folding clasp

Reference 5541 GMT

Urban Jürgensen Automatic P5 Movement
GMT, 24 Hour ‘home time’ subdial at 6
Pushers for forward/backward correction of the central hour hand with unidirectional date change
Hands and hour markers inlaid with blue/green Super-LumiNova
Solid steel open worked hands
Water resistance 120 meters
Maritime wave style grains d´orge guilloche dial in Urban Blue
Case: Medical Grade 1.4441 steel; Diameter 41 mm
Individually soldered lugs
Integrated bracelet with Satin brushed links and mirror polished oval duo-shape interlinks
Butterfly double synchro – secured folding clasp

Urban Jürgensen Alfred

Urban Jürgensen presents Alfred, a brand new mechanical watch named in tribute to Jacques Alfred Jürgensen, the last watchmaker of the Jürgensen family. This new horology creation distils the best of the brand’s century old tradition and simultaneously ads a touch of modernity to its collection.

The iconic case with tear-drop shape lugs is fashioned out of stainless steel and opts for a modern 42 mm diameter. Each lug is individually forged, meticulously hand-finished and soldered to the watch case in a way which makes the soldering lines invisible to the naked eye.

Its ‘Grenage’ dial was created by a traditional, time-consuming technique. The Urban Jürgensen numerals and other inscriptions on the solid fine silver dial are engraved and the recesses are filled with lacquer. The dial is flat polished and a mix of pure silver in powder form, salts, oils and other secret ingredients are then manually brushed onto the dial.  An electrochemical process creates a silvery, frosted surface with remarkable depth and granularity in a process that makes every dial unique. The understated elegance of the dial is paired with distinctive hands. Entirely hand-crafted, a single set requires some 50 manufacturing steps and over a day of work; the surfaces are patiently finished, the steel arms are thermally blued, the eye of the hour hand is mirror-polished.

The watch is powered by the Urban Jürgensen P4 movement with manual winding. Displaying small seconds at 6 o’clock, this twin barrel calibre runs at 21’600 vibrations per hour with a 72h autonomy.

Buyers will have the opportunity to collect their watches directly from the company’s atelier in Bienne, Switzerland by appointment by the company’s CEO, Søren Jenry Petersen, who will personally hand over the finished watches and introduce the buyers to the craftsmen who have spent months working on them.

Technical details

Movement
Urban Jürgensen Movement P4
Swiss Lever Escapement
Manual winding
Hours, minutes, small seconds
Adjusted to temperature, isochronism in five (5) positions
Stop seconds
Twin barrels
Autonomy 72 hours
Frequency 21’600 V/h (3 Hz)
Twenty-three (23) jewels
Diameter 32.00 mm
Thickness 5.20 mm

Case
Stainless Steel 42 mm Round 3-piece case, with a convex bezel
Individually soldered teardrop lugs
Domed sapphire crystal
Open back with flat sapphire crystal
Water resistant 3 ATM

Dial
Single piece solid silver handmade Grenage dial
Hand lacquered engraved dial

Hands
Hand made in thermally blued steel
Diamond mirror polished eye

Strap
Brown Calf Leather
Length 115/75mm, width 21/16
Other straps are also available

Buckle
Classic C-buckle in Stainless Steel, signed Urban Jürgensen

 

Urban Jürgensen Reference 2140 WG (Jules Collection) – White Gold Case and Hand Finished Black Guilloché Dial

Urban Jürgensen presents a new addition to the Jules Collection; the Reference 2140 in white gold. This elegant timepiece in monochrome comes dressed in a 40mm diameter convex and concave curved case featuring tapered lugs. Handmade in Urban Jürgensen workshops, the Guilloché one-piece solid silver dial in black offers shimmering effect results from a selection of highly complex patterns. The meticulously finished in-house P4 movement can be admired through the exhibition case-back.

Technical details

Movement
Urban Jürgensen Movement P4
Swiss Lever Escapement
Manual winding
Hours, minutes, small seconds
Adjusted to temperature, isochronism in five (5) positions
Stop seconds
Twin barrels
Autonomy 72 hours
Frequency 21’600 V/h (3 Hz)
Twenty-three (23) jewels
Diameter 32.00 mm
Thickness 5.20 mm

Case
White Gold
40 mm Round 3-piece case, with a convex bezel
Contemporary tapered lugs
Domed sapphire crystal
Open back with flat sapphire crystal
Water resistant 3 ATM

Dial
Hand finished guilloché dial on one piece solid silver
White Gold Index Batons
Black coloured Silver dial

Hands
Hand made solid White Gold
Diamond polished eye in White Gold

Strap
Alligator
Length 115/75mm, width 20/16
Custom made sizes available on request
Semi-matt black. Other colours are available on request

Buckle
Classic C-buckle in White Gold, stamped Urban Jürgensen
Folding buckle optional

 

Urban Jürgensen Reference 1140 RG Brown Limited Edition (Jürgensen 1745 Collection)

Celebrating the 245th anniversary of Urban Jürgensen watch brand, the Reference 1140L RG Brown Limited Edition strikes a unique tone with a chocolate brown dial juxtaposed against the finely blued hands and exquisite Arabic numerals crafted in solid rose gold and hand polished to a fine pillow shape.

Unveiled at Baselworld 2018, this limited-edition timepiece in rose gold exhibits a simplicity that conceals the complexity of its creation. The timepiece contains the sought-after hand-crafted blend of Urban Jürgensen hands, Guilloché dial, in-house P4 hand-finished movement and tear-drop lugged casework that ensures every piece is a unique work of art.

The unique styled Rose Gold Arabic numeral appliqués are inspired by the hand-painted enamel and grand-feu dials of historic Urban Jürgensen pocket watches.

Technical details

Movement
Urban Jürgensen Movement P4, Individually numbered series of 20
Swiss Lever Escapement
Manual winding
Hours, minutes, small seconds
Adjusted to temperature, isochronism in fve (5) positions
Stop seconds
Twin barrels
Autonomy 72 hours
Frequency 21’600 V/h (3 Hz)
Twenty-three (23) jewels
Diameter 32.00 mm
Thickness 5.20 mm

Case
Rose Gold 40 mm Round 3-piece case, with a convex bezel
Individually soldered teardrop lugs
Domed sapphire crystal
Open back with flat sapphire crystal
Water resistant 3 ATM

Dial
Circular brushed chapter ring
Hand finished guilloche dial on one piece solid silver
Urban Jürgensen domed solid rose gold Arabic numerals
Urban Jürgensen Brown

Hands
Hand made in thermally blued steel and Rose Gold
Click mounted diamond polished eye in Rose Gold

Strap
Alligator
Length 115/75mm, width 20/16
Custom made sizes available on request
Semi-matt brown. Other colours are available on request
Delivered exclusively with solid rose gold folding buckle and clasp

Limited edition
20 Pieces

 

Urban Jürgensen Reference 1140 PT L Blue Limited Edition

Urban Jürgensen presents a new limited edition of 30 pieces – 1140 PT L Blue for 2017.

At first glance, the 1140 PT L Blue exhibits a simplicity that conceals the complexity of its creation. The construction method and craftsmanship used are deliberately intended to appeal to connoisseurs of fine watchmaking. While some design elements and finishing are clear to see, others are virtually hidden. This new model complements the Jurgensen 1745 collection as a blend of the most precious examples of craftsmanship, Urban Jurgensen Hands, Guilloche and white gold appliqués with an in-house P4 movement.

The 40mm classic case design used in this reference, has a round form, teardrop shaped lugs and stepped bezel combined with exquisitely finished dials and hands. Urban Jürgensen hands are very much hand-made. They comprise a significant number of components that are individually honed, assembled and finished.

This naturally implies numerous hours of highly skilled workmanship which is a key feature of Urban Jürgensen timepieces. The white gold arms of Urban Jürgensen hands are cut from solid white gold and manually finished to ensure a perfect shape and fit.

Numerous hours of diligent polishing with increasingly fine grained diamond paper are followed by mirror polishing using secret types of polishing paste applied using a variety of wooden pegs specially shaped for the task. Its asymmetrical design, gently tapered towards the tip, ensures a unique elegance. This unwavering commitment to excellence is further exemplified at the very centre of the dial, in the precision-turned and mirror-polished solid gold hand pipes (also known as bushes), around which the arms are riveted to ensure a perfect ft.

Urban Jürgensen are considered masters of the art of the hand finished guilloche dials. In the new model, it can be appreciated in the vast attention to detail in the dial layout and pattern selections Grains d’orges and Guilloché Damier. Each dial requires up to 700 operations and takes two full days of hand work to complete on a guilloche lathe. After engine-turning, the dial is repeatedly brought to Rose heat and treated with acid to produce the unique warm colour by developing a fine layer of pure silver on the surface finally the dial is imbued with the proprietary Urban Jurgensen blue.

The White Gold Urban Jürgensen Arabic numeral appliqués are inspired by the hand painted enamel and grand feu dials of our historic pocket watches – an inspiration that imparts almost impossible challenges in crafting them in solid gold. Transferring the long extremely thin lines painted in a “1” or a “2”, or the small “+” on a “4”, is a challenge very few masters today. It is simply very difficult and delicate work.

The Urban Jürgensen numerals cannot be stamped out. They are cut in several cutting processes from a solid gold sheet to arrive at the final shape, followed by an extremely delicate polishing process finished by hand to arrive at the fine “bombé” pillow shaped profile. And because they are so fine in the details, no two sets on two dials are identical.

Technical details
REFERENCE 1140 PT BLUE
Limited Edition – 30 Pieces

Movement
Urban Jürgensen Movement P4
Swiss Lever Escapement
Manual winding
Hours, minutes, small seconds
Adjusted to temperature, isochronism in five (5) positions
Stop seconds
Twin barrels
Autonomy: 72 hours
Frequency: 21’600 V/h (3 Hz)
Twenty-three (23) jewels
Diameter: 32.00 mm
Thickness: 5.20 mm

Case
Platinum 40 mm Round 3-piece case, with a convex bezel
Individually soldered teardrop lugs
Domed sapphire crystal
Open back with flat sapphire crystal
Water resistant 3 ATM

Dial
Circular brushed chapter ring
Hand finished guilloché dial on one piece solid silver
Urban Jürgensen domed platinum Arabic numerals
Blue coloured Silver dial

Hands
Hand made solid White Gold
Diamond polished eye in White Gold

Strap
Alligator skin
Length 115/75mm, width 20/16
Custom made sizes available on request
Semi-matt blue
Other colours are available on request
Delivered exclusively with solid platinum folding buckle and clasp

Urban Jürgensen Jules Collection – Reference 2240 (Rose Gold Model – Central Seconds and Date) & Reference 2340 (White Gold Model – Small Seconds, Date, Power Reserve and Moon Phase Indication)

Swiss luxury watch maker Urban Jürgensen presents the new Jules Collection with two new models, Reference 2240 and 2340. Both models launch the new contemporary tapered lugs in a classic design on a convex and concave curved case with a diameter of 40 mm.

The top bezel houses domed sapphire crystal, and the screw back is equipped with flat sapphire crystal. The dials of the two models also come with a Grenage dial base and are finished with hand lacquered engraved Urban Jürgensen Arabic numerals.

Reference 2240 comes in rose gold and has central seconds and date indication. Reference 2340 comes in white gold and has small seconds, date, and power reserve and moon phase indication. Both these new references come with movements based on in-house P4 movement by Urban Jürgensen.

Model: Ref 2340 WG

Movement
Urban Jürgensen P4 D LU RDM PS
Swiss Lever Escapement
Manual winding
Date, moon phase, power reserve
Hours, minutes, small seconds
Adjusted to temperature, isochronism in five (5) positions
Stop seconds
Twin barrels
Autonomy 60 hours
Frequency 21’600 V/h (3 Hz)
Thirty-one (31) jewels
Diameter 32.00 mm
Thickness 5.74 mm

Case
White Gold
40 mm Round 3-piece case, with a convex bezel
Contemporary tapered lugs
Domed sapphire crystal
Open back with flat sapphire crystal
Water resistant 3 ATM

Dial
Single piece solid silver handmade Grenage dial
Hand lacquered engraved dial

Hands
Hand made in thermally blued steel and Yellow Gold
Click mounted diamond polished eye in Yellow Gold

Strap
Alligator skin
Length 115/75mm, width 20/16
Custom made sizes available on request
Semi-matt black, brown or blue
Other colours available on request

Buckle
Classic C-buckle in Platinum, stamped Urban Jürgensen.
Folding buckle optional

Model: Ref 2240 RG

Movement
Urban Jürgensen P4 D SC
Swiss Lever Escapement
Manual winding
Date
Hours, minutes, central seconds
Adjusted to temperature, isochronism in five (5) positions
Stop seconds
Twin barrels
Autonomy 60 hours
Frequency 21’600 V/h (3 Hz)
Twenty-four (24) jewels
Diameter 32.00 mm
Thickness 5.20 mm

Case
Rose Gold
40 mm Round 3-piece case, with a convex bezel
Contemporary tapered lugs
Domed sapphire crystal
Open back with flat sapphire crystal
Water resistant 3 ATM

Dial
Single piece solid silver handmade Grenage dial
Hand lacquered engraved dial

Hands
Hand made in thermally blued steel and Rose Gold
Click mounted diamond polished eye in Rose Gold

Strap
Alligator skin
Length 115/75mm, width 20/16
Custom made sizes available on request
Semi-matt black, brown or blue
Other colours available on request

Urban Jürgensen Reference 1741 PT

Introducing the Jürgensen 1745 Collection, Urban Jürgensen presents Reference 1741 in Platinum with Perpetual calendar, leap year indicator, moon phase and central seconds.

Reference 1741 is equipped with a Grenage dial for the first time in more than 100 years and reintroduces the almost forgotten craft which is hardly used or even known today.

It is handcrafted, delicate and time-consuming, but the final result justifies the difficulties of creating the Grenage Dial. The Reference 1741 dial is hand made using Grenage dial making and fitted with the Urban Jürgensen white gold Arabic appliques. The moon disk takes more than 20 different operations to create, and the result is a unique tiny wonder of classic workmanship which is rarely found in timepieces nowadays.

The Ref 1741 caliber is based on the Urban Jürgensen P4 In-house movement, enhanced with the QP functionality that has been augmented by introducing the leap year indication. The Ref 1741 is executed in a 41mm case in traditional Urban Jürgensen teardrop lug case.

The elegant profile of convex and concave curves of the case consists of 3 main pieces; the middle case with individually soldered teardrop lugs, the top bezel houses the domed sapphire crystal, and the screw back with a flat sapphire crystal.

Technical details
Ref 1741 PT

Movement
Urban Jürgensen P4 QP SC
Swiss Lever Escapement
Manual winding
Perpetual Calendar, day, date, month, moon phase, leap year
Hours, minutes, central seconds
Adjusted to temperature, isochronism in five (5) positions
Stop seconds
Twin barrels
Autonomy: 60 hours
Frequency: 21’600 V/h (3 Hz)
Twenty-four (24) jewels
Diameter: 32.00 mm
Thickness: 6.85 mm

Case
Platinum
41 mm Round 3-piece case, with a convex bezel
Individually soldered teardrop lugs
Domed sapphire crystal
Open back with flat sapphire crystal
Water resistant 3 ATM

Dial
Single piece solid silver handmade Grenage dial
Urban Jürgensen domed White Gold Arabic numerals
Hand lacquered engraved dial

Hands
Hand made in thermally blued steel and Yellow Gold
Click mounted diamond polished eye in Yellow Gold

Strap
Alligator skin
Length 115/75mm, width 21/16
Custom made sizes available on request
Semi-matt black, brown or blue
Other colours available on request
Buckle: Classic C-buckle in Platinum, stamped Urban Jürgensen. Folding buckle optional

Grenage Dial
Grenage dials were originated in the late 1800s. It is a dial making technique that is rarely used these days – and it’s easy to understand why. It requires such a delicate balance of skill, patience, and hours of concentration that most have abandoned grenage without a backward look – but we believe the end result is worth it.

It is a distinctively handmade process dial by dial. It is said the dial represents 80% of the watch, and we believe that makes it worthy of a handmade approach. Each dial begins with a plate of solid fine silver given ultra-fine engravings of numbers and markings. The engravings are hand filled with lacquer, and after hardening is diamond paper-polished to leave its residue in the grooves.

The grenage layer is then built step by step as a secret mix of silver, salts and other ingredients is hand-brushed onto the individual dial. By electrochemical reaction, the surface emerges as a beautiful pearled finish; a silvery frosty surface with unique depth and granularity.

Hands: Urban Jürgensen hands are handmade. The arms of the hands are cut from selected steel and hand finished to perfect shape and fit. Gold hands are made from solid gold. After careful polishing with increasingly fine grain diamond paper, and mirror polishing by use of shape fitted secret types of dried wood, the arms are thermally blued  to  arrive  at  the  specified  Urban  Jürgensen  blue colour. The eye of the hour hand is a concentrically diamond polished solid gold insert, held in place by the sheer accuracy of the fit. The arms are carefully riveted to the diamond polished solid gold centre canons.

Arabic numeral appliques: The White Gold Urban Jürgensen Arabic numeral appliques require two separate cutting processes, and are carefully hand polished cabochons and manually placed, they adopt an elegant cursive typography, typical of the 1930s.

Moon Disc: Each disc is made by hand from carefully selected and treated steel – thermally-blued and mirror-polished. Recesses for inlays are punched or etched into the steel, then pure gold (in powder form)  is  carefully  placed  into  the  cavities,  and melted to create solid gold stars. The entire surface is re-polished and heat treated to create the famous urban blue colour before two solid gold moon discs are press fitted.

Teardrop Lugs
The teardrop lugs on Urban Jürgensen’s Ref 1140 time pieces have been individually forged, heat treated, hand polished and individually soldered on to the watch case in a way which makes the soldering line invisible for the naked eye. The forging process requires between 5 and 8  cycles  where  little  by  little  the  final form  of  a  paired tear drop set is forged into shape under the pressure of 50 tons. To prevent the lugs becoming brittle, it is necessary after each forging cycle to release the tension in the metal through a slow heat treatment at around 800 degrees with a cool off period. The heat levels needed to solder the lugs to the case is close to the melting point of the used metal, and as such it is an extremely delicate process only mastered by experienced craftsmen. The entire process takes several days, and is rarely used nowadays due to the high costs of handcrafting.

Urban Jürgensen New Collection 2015 – 1140L Lever (Platinum, Red, Yellow & White Gold Versions) and 1140C Detent Red Gold Version

Continuing the extraordinary history and high level of watch making, Urban Jürgensen, unveils its new watch collection for 2015. The collection includes five new watches, Reference 1140L comes in Red, Yellow or White Gold with classically executed hand guilloche silver dials and solid Gold index batons. The Platinum version of Reference 1140L comes with Urban Jürgensen Arabic numerals. These models are all equipped with the new in-house mechanical Urban Jürgensen P4 Lever Escapement movement.

Reference 1140L in Red Gold

Last but not least and inspired by 2014 GPHG first prize Winner Men’s Category Ref 11C Central Second gentleman’s wristwatch, the 2015 Collection also includes Reference 1140C in Red Gold, manual winding andin-house P8 movement in a new design with the world patented Urban Jürgensen Detent Escapement.

Reference 1140C in Red Gold

The new 40mm classical case design used in these references, has a round form, teardrop shaped lugs and stepped bezel combined with exquisitely finished dials and hands. The diamond-finished hands requires several hours of handwork to finish them to perfection. After careful bluing, the hands are polished to a perfect gloss. For watches in Gold cases the hands are made of Gold and Steel. These are visual landmarks of distinction that can only be found in Urban Jürgensen timepieces, bringing together a distinctly visible application of pure hand craft, where the intrinsic balance of all parts together form timepieces of true beauty.

Urban Jürgensen are considered masters of the art in using hand finished guilloche dials. In the new collection it can be appreciated in the great attention to detail in the dial layout and pattern selections of Grains d’orges and Guilloché Damier. Each dial requires up to 700 operations and takes 2 full days of hand work to complete on a guilloche lathe. After engine-turning, the dial is repeatedly brought to red heat and treated with acid to produce the unique warm color by developing a fine layer of pure silver on the surface.

URBAN JÜRGENSEN DETENT ESCAPEMENT MOVEMENT
In 2011 Urban Jürgensen presented the prototype of the ground breaking UJS-P8 movement, the world’s first wristwatch movement utilizing a chronometer escapement, thus connecting the marine chronometers and clocks made by the firm in the 18th and 19th centuries directly to the world of watchmaking in the 21st century.

The extreme precision of the detent escapement, which lies at the heart of defining a true chronometer, ranks far above the tourbillion in terms of accuracy and horological historic importance. Nonetheless, despite centuries of attempts – until 2011 it was considered an impossibility to successfully implement it in a modern wristwatch. In the 18th and 19th centuries it was used exclusively in ship’s chronometers, built to withstand the motion of the open sea, always with the dial facing upwards in a gimbal mounting and set within a closed box.In today’s world, the day-to-day hazards of life on a wrist are extreme compared to the marine environment and therefore, the original escapement concept had to be altered.

Additionally, this step required smaller dimensions in order to make the detent escapement practical and accurate for modern times. After several years of research and heavy investments in classic watch making R&D, Urban Jürgensen was not only successful in creating a revolutionary Pivoted Detent Escapement for its new caliber, it was also constructed to be so robust that it passed the Chronofiable®test – one of the toughest standards in the Swiss Horological Industry.

In 2015, Urban Jürgensen took a step further in the development of its Detent Escapement and its caliber. Completely in line with the company’s high standards of manufacturing and traditions, the new design of the bridges and the intricate new finish of the movement found in this collection elegantly and mechanically close the circle between Urban Jürgensen past and present.

– Pivoted detent escapement
– Three level roller on the balance
– Escapement wheel working in two levels
– Security system for shocks
– Three individual pallet for three different functions
–  Patented mechanism for better efficiency detent is smaller therefore less sensitive to shocks and easier to move.

The Urban Jürgensen Reference 1140 Case
The  Urban  Jürgensen  40mm  diameter  case  is  made in  Platinum,  Rose,  Yellow  or  White  Gold.  It  consists of  3  pieces  with  convex  middle  case  and  individually soldered  teardrop  lugs.  The Concave bezel houses a domed sapphire crystal.  The screw back is equipped with flat sapphire crystal.

The Urban Jürgensen Ref 1140 Teardrop Lugs
The teardrop lugs on Urban Jürgensen’s Ref 1140 time pieces have been individually forged, heat treated, hand polished and individually soldered on to the watch case in a way which makes the soldering line invisible for the naked eye. The forging process requires between 5 and 8  cycles  where  little  by  little  the  final  form  of  a  paired tear  drop  set  is  forged  into  shape  under  the  pressure of  50  tons.  To prevent the lugs becoming brittle, it is necessary after each forging cycle to release the tension in the metal through a slow heat treatment at around 800 degrees with a cool off period. The heat levels needed to solder the lugs to the case is close to the melting point of the used metal, and as such it is an extremely delicate process only mastered by experienced craftsmen. The entire process takes several days, and is rarely used nowadays due to the high costs of handcrafting.

The Urban Jürgensen Reference 1140 Platinum Dial
This  Urban  Jürgensen  dial  combines  meticulous traditional hand craft work with advanced techniques of high  grade  modern  dial  making.  Created in one piece solid silver, the Reference 1140 PT L dial is 32.50mm in diameter and 0.50mm thick.

The small seconds’ zone is hand guilloched with décor “panier” and with a mirror pearled circular zone for the 5  second  indicators,  after  this  process,  it  is  calque traced for the remaining individual indicators. The logo cartouche is traced separately.  The opaline coloured center circumference results from a fine “sablage” treatment.  The circular hour sector zone and the logo cartouche are realized by a technique called “brossage”. The outer minute track is pearled by use of a diamond tool. Afterwards a protective fine brilliant silver coating is dispersed over the entire dial.

The  White  Gold  Urban  Jürgensen  Arabic  numeral appliques require two separate cutting processes, and are  carefully  hand  polished  cabochons  and  manually placed,  they  adopt  an  elegant  cursive  typography, typical of the 1930s.

Urban Jürgensen Guilloche Dial
The fine  guilloche one piece solid silver dials produced by Urban Jürgensen require up to 700 operations and take  2  full  days  of  hand  work  to  complete  which  are carried  out  on  special  machines,  some  of  which  are over  a  century  old.  The  specifics  of  Urban  Jürgensen hand  guilloche  dial  surface  shimmering  effects  result from a selection of highly complex patterns. The art of the craft lies in selection and scaling of the chosen patterns, ensuring the right balance between grain size, type and complexity.

Urban Jürgensen Hands
Urban Jürgensen hands are handmade. The arms of the hands are cut from selected steel and hand finished to perfect shape and fit. Gold hands are made from solid gold. After careful polishing with increasingly fine grain diamond  paper,  and  mirror  polishing  by  use  of  shape fitted secret types of dried wood, the arms are thermally blued  to  arrive  at  the  specified  Urban  Jürgensen  blue colour.  The eye of the hour hand is a concentrically diamond polished solid gold insert, held in place by the sheer accuracy of the fit. The arms are carefully riveted to the diamond polished solid gold centre canons.

Urban Jürgensen Reference 1140 Lever Platinum

Movement
Mechanical Urban Jürgensen P4 movement
Manual winding
Hour, minute and small second
High quality finishing
Two barrels
Autonomy 72 hours
Frequency 21’600 V/h (3 Hz)
Swiss lever escapement
Balance with regulation “moment of inertia”, diameter 12 mm
Balance stop
Twenty-three (23) jewels
Diameter 32.00 mm
Thickness 5.20 mm

Case
950 platinum
40 mm round case, made in 3 pieces with concave middle case and individually soldered teardrop lugs, convex bezel
Domed sapphire crystal
Open back with flat sapphire crystal
Water resistant 3 ATM
Urban Jürgensen logo on the crown

Dial
Massive silver dial
Circular brushed on hour area
Opal shade in center area
Urban Jürgensen domed platinum Arabic numerals
Hands: Blued stainless steel with white gold center and white gold inlay for the hour hand; Hand finished by Urban Jürgensen

Bracelet
Alligator leather strap
Hand stitch tone on tone.
Length 115/75, Width 20/16(other sizes available on request)
Semi-matt black or semi-matt brown (other options available on request)
Buckle: Platinum buckle or folding buckle with Urban Jürgensen logo stamped

Urban Jürgensen Reference 1140 Lever Red Gold

Movement
Mechanical Urban Jürgensen P4 movement
Manual winding
Hour, minute and small second
High quality finishing
Two barrels
Autonomy 72 hours
Frequency 21’600 V/h (3 Hz)
Swiss lever escapement
Balance with regulation “moment of inertia”, diameter 12 mm
Balance stop
Twenty-three (23) jewels
Diameter 32.00 mm
Thickness 5.20 mm

Case
750 red gold 5N
40 mm round case, made in 3 pieces with concave middle case and individually soldered teardrop lugs, convex bezel
Domed sapphire crystal
Open back with flat sapphire crystal
Water resistant 3 ATM
Urban Jürgensen logo on the crown

Dial
Hand guilloché dial on massive silver plate
Chiseled red gold 5N index batons
Hands: Blued stainless steel with red gold 5N centerand red gold 5N inlay for the hour hand; Hand finished by Urban Jürgensen

Bracelet
Alligator leather strap
Hand stitch tone on tone.
Length 115/75, Width 20/16(other sizes available on request)
Semi-matt black or semi-matt brown (other options available on request)
Buckle: Red Gold buckle or folding buckle with Urban Jürgensen logo stamped

Urban Jürgensen Reference 1140 Lever White Gold

Movement
Mechanical Urban Jürgensen P4 movement
Manual winding
Hour, minute and small second
High quality finishing
Two barrels
Autonomy 72 hours
Frequency 21’600 V/h (3 Hz)
Swiss lever escapement
Balance with regulation “moment of inertia”, diameter 12 mm
Balance stop
Twenty-three (23) jewels
Diameter 32.00 mm
Thickness 5.20 mm

Case
White Gold
40 mm round case, made in 3 pieces with concave middle case and individually soldered teardrop lugs, convex bezel
Domed sapphire crystal
Open back with flat sapphire crystal
Water resistant 3 ATM
Urban Jürgensen logo on the crown

Dial
Hand guilloche blue dial on massive silver plate
Chiseled white gold index batons
Hands: White Gold hands; Hand finished by Urban Jürgensen

Bracelet
Alligator leather strap
Hand stitch tone on tone.
Length 115/75, Width 20/16(other sizes available on request)
Semi-matt black or semi-matt brown (other options available on request)
Buckle: White Gold buckle or folding buckle with Urban Jürgensen logo stamped

Urban Jürgensen Reference 1140 Lever Yellow Gold

Movement
Mechanical Urban Jürgensen P4 movement
Manual winding
Hour, minute and small second
High quality finishing
Two barrels
Autonomy 72 hours
Frequency 21’600 V/h (3 Hz)
Swiss lever escapement
Balance with regulation “moment of inertia”, diameter 12 mm
Balance stop
Twenty-three (23) jewels
Diameter 32.00 mm
Thickness 5.20 mm

Case
Yellow Gold 3N
40 mm round case, made in 3 pieces with concave middle case and individually soldered teardrop lugs, convex bezel
Domed sapphire crystal
Open back with flat sapphire crystal
Water resistant 3 ATM
Urban Jürgensen logo on the crown

Dial
Hand guilloche black dial on massive silver plate
Chiseled yellow gold 3N index batons
Hands: Yellow Gold 3N hands; Hand finished by Urban Jürgensen

Bracelet
Alligator leather strap
Hand stitch tone on tone.
Length 115/75, Width 20/16(other sizes available on request)
Semi-matt black or semi-matt brown (other options available on request
Buckle: White Gold buckle or folding buckle with; Urban Jürgensen logo stamped

Urban Jürgensen Reference 1140C Detent Red Gold

Movement
Mechanical Urban Jürgensen P8 movement
Manual winding
Hour, minute, center second and power reserve indication
Regulate in 5 positions, temperature and isochronisms
High quality finishing
Two barrels
Autonomy 60 hours
Frequency 21’600 V/h (3 Hz)
Urban Jürgensen pivoted detent escapement
Balance with regulation “moment of inertia”, diameter 12 mm
Balance stop in combination with second wheel stop
Twenty-eight (28) jewels
Diameter 32.00 mm
Thickness 5.20 mm

Case
750 red gold 5N
40 mm round case, made in 3 pieces with concave middle case and individually soldered teardrop lugs, convex bezel
Domed sapphire crystal
Open back with flat sapphire crystal
Water resistant 3 ATM
Urban Jürgensen logo on the crown

Dial
Hand guilloché dial on massive silver plate “Grains d’Orges”
Black printed roman numerals
Hands: Blued stainless steel with red gold 5N center and red gold 5N inlay for the hour hand; Hand finished by Urban Jürgensen

Bracelet
Alligator leather strap
Hand stitch tone on tone.
Length 115/75, Width 20/16 (other sizes available on request)
Semi-matt black or semi-matt brown (other options available on request)
Buckle: Red gold 5N buckle or folding buckle stamped Urban Jürgensen logo

Retail Prices

  • REF 1140L PT (Platinum/UJ P4 In-House Movement/Lever Escapement/Manual Winding/40 mm): CHF 42.000
  • REF 1140L WG (White Gold/UJ P4 In-House Movement/Lever Escapement/ Manual Winding/40 mm): CHF 27.900
  • REF 1140L YG (Yellow Gold/UJ P4 In-House Movement/Lever Escapement/ Manual Winding/40 mm): CHF 27.900
  • REF 1140L RG (Rose Gold/UJ P4 In-House Movement/Lever Escapement/ Manual Winding/40 mm: CHF 27.900
  • REF 1140C RG (Rose Gold / UJ P8 In-House Movement/ Chronometer Escapement/ Manual Winding/ 40 mm): CHF 49.000

 

Urban Jürgensen & Sønner – UJS Reference 11C SC (Central Seconds)

Swiss luxury watch maker Urban Jürgensen & Sønner unveils UJS Reference 11C SC, a new timepiece collection equipped with its state of the art P8 detent escapement. Introduced in 2012, it is the first detent escapement ever created for a wristwatch.

In a new variation of the extraordinary UJS-P8 detent escapement, the first detent escapement ever created for a wristwatch, the choice was made to renew and connect with the history, tradition, experience and pursuit of accuracy at Urban Jürgensen & Sønner, which has been at the heart of the brand’s existence since the 18th century.

The middle of the 18th saw the creation of highly accurate chronometer’s, whose first application was primarily as a navigational aid for the calculation of longitude that until than had been difficult to establish in a repeatable and accurate manner. Today, this origin of the central seconds or ‘sweep seconds’ hand has been largely forgotten, and it is seen merely as a delineator between sportive and dress styled watches.

The creation of the central seconds hand is a bit more complex than using an indirect seconds subdial, since additional gears are needed to transfer power through the cannon pinion to the seconds hand from the movement. Those watch lovers familiar with the concept of the detent escapement will immediately note the motion of the seconds hand in the new UJS reference 11C SC, which in this case jumps in increments of 1/3 second due to the nature of the detent escapement’s special construction. This same effect can also be noted in ship’s chronometers from the same period as the founding of Urban Jürgensen’s workshop.

In addition to the fine grand feu enamel dials, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner produce for a number of their timepieces; they are also masters of the art of the handmade guilloché dial. These are created – one by one – on an original, hand driven machine called a guilloche lathe, capable of creating many different types of patterns. These machines are quite rare because they have not been manufactured for a very long time, and many of such existing machines were lost or thrown away when the demand and taste for such dials diminished or when dial factories closed their doors. The specifics of Urban Jürgensen & Sonner hand engine turned dial surface shimmering effects precisely result from a selection of highly complex patterns. Urban Jürgensen & Sønner work with the greatest living masters of this art, each of whom has been trained by a previous, older expert, following a path of succession from one to the next generation of centuries past.

Greatly simplified, the guilloché lathe (also referred to as a rose engine) consists of a rotating head in which the dial blank is fixed across from a cutter that can move forward, backwards and sideways in microscopic increments. These movements are controlled by a system of cams with different ridge-like or waved shapes along their circumference.

Under the watchful eye of the dial maker, and turned by hand, these shapes control the pattern of moments that mark the contact between the cutter and the blank. Each dial requires several days of intensely concentrated effort to complete; one fractional millimeter of movement of the dial maker’s hand during this process will inevitably ruin the dial and require the dial to be started anew. When completed, the dial will undergo further surface treatment and tamponage for the marking out of the numerals, minute segments and other information on the dial’s face.

The UJS Reference 11C SC (Central Seconds) is available in gold(11 C SC 5N) and platinum(11 C SC PT) versions.

Introduced in 2011, the Urban Jürgensen & Sønner Reference P8 Chronometer (the world’s first watch series with detent escapement) models are available in manual winding and automatic versions.

Urban Jürgensen & Sønner Tourbillon Email Minute Repeater

Since its establishment in 1773, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner has always sought out technical challenges in the creation of numerous and exceptional horological creations of great originality. The Urban Jürgensen & Sønner Tourbillon Email Minute Repeater continues this tradition to the present day.

The minute repeater, one of the most horology complications to create, traces its origins to era when monumental clock towers used to announce the time in regular intervals with the help of their bells.  As people became more mobile and technology developed even further, chiming clocks for personal use in the form of pocket watches, then finally wristwatches came into use. Many of the miniature parts in these complex chiming masterpieces are so small that they are barely visible to the naked eye, making them the ultimate expression of the watchmaker’s art. Urban Jürgensen & Sønner is among a small number of manufactures who have already proved the expertise of creating such complications.

The Minute Repeater complication of Urban Jürgensen & Sønner’s Tourbillon Minute Repeater allows the user to call upon it to signal the time when desired, as often as one wishes. This is accomplished by pushing a sliding lever located on the side of the case at 9 o’clock, thus activating the chiming mechanism. The watch uses two gongs pitched roughly a third apart for the demarcation of the hours, quarters and minutes.

The regulator style dial refers to the positioning of the blued steel hour and minute hands to separate parts of the dial, thus placing the main accent on the minute hand in the centre. The regulators were used as observatory timekeepers or for the close observation of the exact passage of minutes for scientific studies visually easier than having the hour and minute hands working from the same positions. In this way, the popularity of the regulator style of dial layout coincides directly with the advances made in science, business and general society during the course of the 19th century.

The Tourbillon Email Minute Repeater features a thin (0.65mm) grand feu enamel dial created using precise firing techniques and other traditional artisanal methods involving grinding, lapping and polishing – all entirely executed by hand.

Technical details
Model: Email Tourbillon Minute Repeater

Movement
CALIBER UJS-CLA92 (Ø 27, 60 mm Height 6, 89 mm)
Manual winding, one-minute-tourbillon, minute repeater with enamel regulator dial
Dimensions: Platinum case, 42.5 mm x 13.00 mm
Power reserve: Single barrel with circa 40 hours, manual winding
Jewels: 28
Balance: Free sprung Glucydur with timing screws, 11 mm diameter, beating at 18,000 vph
Movement finished with Cotes de Genève, perlage, anglage and perfectly polished screws, hands, indexes and springs. Mirror black polish is also used extensively throughout the movement
Tourbillon: One minute tourbillon, weight of cage 0.420 grams

Dial
Hand painted grand feu enamel with fondant de Genève.

Urban Jürgensen & Sønner Montre observatoire émail dial – Limited Edition

Swiss watch brand Urban Jürgensen & Sønner unveils Montre observatoire émail dial, their latest limited edition timepiece that carries the beauty of the art of enameling. To celebrate the extraordinary UJS-P8 detent escapement, the first detent escapement ever created for a wristwatch, the choice was made to renew and connect with the centuries of history and tradition at Urban Jürgensen & Sønner. It meant that this new limited edition wristwatch was destined to be fitted with an exquisite, hand made enamel dial of the highest quality achievable following exemplary traditions.

Enameled dials have enjoyed a long history at Urban Jürgensen & Sønner, where only the best enamel artisans were used in the creation of the dials used in their timepieces through the course of 240 years.

It is an incontrovertible fact that traditional methods of artisanship have always been forced to cope with the repercussions arising from the inevitable march of progress, and the art of enameling is a particular craft where not only artisanship, but also language has played a role. In the 21st century, the word ‘enamel’ is often thought to be synonymous with anything that is painted with a high gloss finish, even though this is far from the definition of the original craft.

Even within the world of haute horologerie, enameling is often confused with the use of white or colored resins used on ceramic, as well as paints that require only a very low temperature, such as 150˚ or 160˚ C in order to fixate and harden. Linguistic mystification also plays a role with the coining of the term ‘cold enamel’ used to describe such painted work at low temperatures, whereas it has no connection with traditional enamel artisanry in any way.

In addition to the firing techniques mentioned above, many other aspects affect the creation of an enamel dial created for UJ’s watches. In the finest quality dials the material of the dial itself is always made of platinum or 22K gold and entirely handmade. The fondant layer, whether white or colored, is applied in not one, but several very thin layers, followed by up to 10-15 more layers of transparent vitreous enamel which is then fired between 700 and 800 ° C.

It is the application of these many layers of fondant followed by transparent layers, perfectly set with exact thickness over the entire surface, which creates the transparency, glow and depth of a flawless dial. Such work allows no shortcuts. For the enamel dial maker, it is also a nerve-wracking process, since the possibility of the dial deforming or developing hairline cracks increases with the firing of each layer. This process is well captured in the term grand feu, which is used to delineate enamel dials of the highest quality.

Even after these procedures have been completed, the dial is not yet finished. It will still have to undergo further grinding, lapping and polishing – entirely executed by hand – before the final perfection of the fire will reveal itself in its entirety.

Whereas most enamel dials are normally 0.8 – 1.2 mm in thickness, the dials specially created for the Urban Jürgensen & Sønner Montre observatoire émail have been created with a thickness of a mere 0.5mm, with all the black numerals and text on the dial also entirely hand painted. Taken together, this represents an amazing technical feat only achievable by a grand master of the enameler’s art.

By designation, true enamel work requires a production temperature between 550˚ and 800˚ C. These high temperatures are absolutely essential in order to allow the silica, ground into a fine powder and mixed into an emulsion, to melt, vitrify and transform into a glass-like surface of exceptional glow and depth.

Featured Model
Montre observatoire émail dial
Production: Grand feu enameling at 800 ° C with 15 layers, executed by hand
Method: Champlevé
Thickness: 0.5mm
Material: 18k gold
Émail dial: entirely hand painted

Note: The Montre observatoire émail dial Limited Edition is available in Gold and Platinum Variations.

Urban Jürgensen & Sønner P8 Chronometer Ref. 11C Automatic

Swiss luxury watch brand Urban Jürgensen & Sønner presents P8 Chronometer Ref. 11C Automatic, a world premier model equipped with the first automatic movement to ever integrate a pivoted detent escapement within a wristwatch. The first model in the P8 Chronometer line was P8 Reference 11L launched in 2011, which featured a Swiss lever escapement. The new Ref. 11C Automatic model features a patented pivoted detent escapement.

The newly introduced Urban Jürgensen Reference 11 represents the first time that the chronometer escapement has been used in a wristwatch. The invention is the result of several years’ development work and has been patented world wide. In the past 25 years, in addition to individual, often complicated unique watches, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner also created wristwatches in small series from 50 up to a maximum of 300 examples. These watches were mainly based on ébauche movements from Frédéric Piguet, Le Brassus.

The long-held wish for a true UJS movement, with strong emphasis on precision, reliability and long intervals between servicing, has been addressed since 2003. In the 19th century, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner was the official chronometer maker to the Danish Royal Household and to the Admiralty. The quality of the marine chronometers from the house of Jürgensen was legendary. In order to close the loop from the past to modern times in an elegant and meaningful manner, development of a new movement and the chronometer escapement, suitable for use in a wristwatch, was undertaken. A particular problem was to ensure the necessary shockproof characteristics of the escapement. Having achieved this, the invention was patented on a world-wide basis by Urban Jürgensen.

The new movement UJS P8 is introduced to the market in two versions. The first model was with a traditional Swiss lever escapement and the second with the newly introduced detent escapement, a “first” in wristwatches.

The first watches with the new movement are the Reference 11L (lever escapement) and 11C (detent escapement), which maintain the appearance of the traditional Urban Jürgensen wristwatch. The References 11 will be cased in either platinum or rose gold and follows the typical company tradition of a hand engine-turned silver dial displaying hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve (ref. 11C).

Technical details
Movement
UJS P8
Diameter: 32 mm Height: 5.25 mm
Power source: Two barrels in series
Power reserve: 88h running time, indication by means of patented differential system
Balance: Freesprung, diameter 12.0 mm, moment of inertia 24 mg.cm2

Escapement
ref. 11C: pivoted detent escapement
ref. 11L: Swiss lever escapement

Case, Dial & Strap
Case: waterproof, saphire crystal back, platinum or 18 ct. rose gold, diameter 42 mm
Dial: Hand-engine turned silver dial, indication of hours, minutes and seconds, power reserve indication (88h)
Bracelet: leather, rose gold or platinum buckle

The chronometer escapement
The invention and development of the chronometer escapement, towards the end of the 18th century, was ascribed to John Arnold, Thomas Earnshaw, Pierre Le Roy and Ferdinand Berthoud. The new escapement proved to be a horological milestone that very quickly improved the precision of timekeepers. This characteristic was particularly decisive for navigation on the oceans of the world. The chronometer escapement delivers impulses directly to the balance from the escape wheel, without an intermediate component such as the lever in most modern watches. Each oscillation of the regulating organ, the balance and the spring, is only disturbed once, not twice as in other escapements. This arrangement is highly advantageous for the precision of the timekeeper. The escapement has a pivoted arm controlled by a fine spring. It is this detent which allows the escapement to be locked and unlocked as required.

Urban Jürgensen has succeeded for the first time to develop and put into practice a chronometer escapement that meets the highest requirements of reliability and resists the shocks to which a wristwatch is subjected.

UJS P8 Calibre
Introduced by Urban Jürgensen in 2012, the innovative self-winding caliber UJS P8 is the first automatic movement to ever integrate a pivoted detent escapement within a wristwatch.

This new automatic wristwatch based on in-house Caliber UJS P8 results from specific development research. The automatic winding is an integrated element specially developed for the caliber using the following special elements:

1. The very functional and reliable automatic module provides easy access for after-sales service and maintenance

2. The pivot and spring barrel bridge are intimately connected with each other.

3. The gold rotor mounted on a jewel bearing results in a simplified automatic system with little vulnerability

4. The unidirectional winding rotor and its ratchet wheel, which boasts an optimized tooth shape, is perfectly user-friendly and effective.

5. Five jewels in the bridge prevent the rotor being damaged even if it experiences great shock.

6. Rotor weight : 3,86 g

Urban Jürgensen & Sønner Reference P8 Chronometer

This year, legendary Swiss watch brand Urban Jürgensen presents the world’s first wristwatch with a detent escapement. The new Chronometer P8 “with detent escapement” – adapted to the mechanical wristwatch – achieves a 40% better timing performance than the average COSC certified chronometer.

This new invention is the result of many years’ development work and a constant research and commitment. The long-held wish for a true UJS movement, with strong emphasis on precision, reliability and long intervals between servicing, has been addressed since 2003. In the 19th century, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner was the official chronometer maker to the Danish Royal Household and to the Admiralty.

The quality of the marine chronometers from the house of Jürgensen is still legendary among the collectors. In the past 25 years, in addition to individual, often complicated unique watches, the brand Urban Jürgensen & Sønner created wristwatches in small series from 50 up to a maximum of 300 examples. These watches were mainly based on ébauche movements from Frédéric Piguet, Le Brassus.

In order to close the loop from the past to modern times in an elegant and meaningful manner, development of a new movement and the chronometer escapement, suitable for use in a wristwatch, was undertaken. A particular problem was to ensure the necessary shockproof characteristics of the escapement. Having achieved this, the invention has been patented on a world-wide basis by Urban Jürgensen.

The Reference P8 is cased in either platinum, pink or yellow gold and is following the typical company tradition of a hand engine-turned silver dial, displaying hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve. The seconds are displayed on a small dial at “6”. Urban Jürgensen’s quality :

The fine engine-turned silver dials are produced in Urban Jürgensen & Sønner’s workshops. Each dial may require up to 700 operations. The typical two-piece cases are lathed and of highest standard, the middle part with double rounded profile and soldered drop-shaped lugs. The movements used to be the high quality F.Piguet calibres, upgraded by Urban Jürgensen. Today, the film is introducing his own calibre, a twin barrel movement with a patented 88 hours power-reserve indicator, either with a lever escapement or with the world’s first international patented detent escapement for wristwatches.

Features
– A highly innovative movement solidly designed: reliably calculated, simulated and tested.
– The caliber with detent escapement have undergone a thorough testing phase at the laboratories of Chronofiable SA and the C.O.S.C. who demonstrated results higher 40% than establishes brands.

– The variable design principle allows various functions and complications (basic plate prepared for 36 references).
– Highest quality of industrial and horological finishing.
– Longer delays for after sales service (5 to 7 years). Can be repair by any qualified watchmaker.

– Escapement : 32 mm – Height: 5.25 mm
– Case : 42 mm diameter – height: 12mm
– Two barrels “in series”
– Power reserve indication – Eighty-eight hours power reserve
– 21600 vph (3 Hz)
– Large free-sprung balance, diameter 12 mm, 24g/cm²
– Stop second (hack feature)
– Optimized teeth shape to reduce friction

Urban Jürgensen & Sønner – Wrist Watch Models from Reference 1 to 10 and Oval Tourbillon Pocket Watch

Reference 1 – Calendar Chronograph
The Reference 1 is an automatic winding wrist chronograph in a heavy gold waterproof case with a screwed back. The engine-turned silver dial is signed Urban Jürgensen Copenhagen. Fine blued-steel hands indicate the time and the chronograph records seconds, minutes and hours. In addition, the watch shows the date, day of the week, the month and phases of the moon. The Reference 1 were produced as a limited series of 186 watches between 1982 and 1986. In 2001 a small series (15 pieces) of platinum-cased Reference 1 watches was produced.

The harmonious and elegant appearance of the silver dial is completed by the diamond finished gold hands, which require many hours of hand work to finish them to perfection. The moon display alone requires over twenty operations to produce the blued-steel background,with inserted gold moon discs and the stars punched in one by one. The effort required to produce the elegantly curved springs and levers of the perpetual calendar mechanism is practically unlimited. Each steel surface is carefully grained and the edges angled and polished to perfection.

Reference 2Perpetual Calender with Moon phase
A traditionally hand-finished collector’s watch with extremely thin automatic movement (2.4 mm), moonphase and perpetual calendar. Limited series of 50 watches in platinum (Pt 950), each numbered on the dial and movement.

Reference 3 – Perpetual Calender with power reserve indication
The Reference 3 has been introduced as the natural successor to the Reference 2. As before, the basis is an extremely thin 35-jewelled automatic movement with perpetual calendar which is only 2.4 mm thick. The difference is the addition of the state-of wind indicator. Many precision watches, and particularly marine chronometers, have the important addition of another hand which shows the state-of wind of the mainspring. This is commonly known as the “up and down” indicator. When the watch is worn continuously the mainspring will normally be kept fully wound and the hand will indicate “up”.

However, if the watch is not worn for any reason it will gradually run down and the hand will show exactly how long it has to run at any time. The company has incorporated this useful complication in the Reference 3 without increasing the thickness of the thin movement. This involved nearly 2 years development work and many drawings to design a tiny mechanism with some 3 dozen parts running in an additional 10 jewels. Once again, the series will be strictly limited. The watches will be cased in either rose gold, yellow gold or platinum.

Reference 4
The Reference 4 is made to the same specification as the Reference 2 but has an additional hand to indicate the time in a second time zone on a 24-hour chapter ring. The Reference 4 was produced as a limited edition of 300 examples in 1984.

Reference 5
The Reference 5 is a platinum-cased ultra-thin wrist watch with an engine-turned silver dial and individually-finished gold hands protected by a domed sapphire crystal.

Reference 6
The Reference 6 is a tonneau shaped wrist watch with an elegant domed sapphire crystal and curved back to suit the wrist, engine-turned silver dial and gold Dauphine hands. Two versions, either with or without a small seconds hand at 6, are available.

Reference 7
The Reference 7 was only produced as a prototype. The cased watch is suspended in a case ring and can thus be turned completely over.

Reference 8 
The classical Reference 8 gold wrist watch has an engine-turned silver dial, individually finished gold and blued steel hands, with small seconds at 6 and a domed sapphire crystal. The self- winding movement, with over 60 hours autonomy, is adjusted in 5 positions and certified by the official Swiss chronometer control body. It is protected by a water-resistant case. Available with or without date, in yellow gold, rose gold or platinum, also on request with a sapphire back. This classic timepiece is artful in its elegant simplicity.

Reference 9
The Reference 9 evolved from a customer’s special request. Joachim Bondo, a young computer software designer, wanted a variation of the Reference 2 perpetual calendar wrist watch with hands to indicate the day of the week and the month instead of the usual twin apertures on the standard watch.

Reference 10 – Perpetual Calender Small Seconds
The Reference 10 is yet another variation of the Reference 2. This watch has a small seconds hand, concentric with the date hand.

Reference minute repeater
This platinum-cased wrist watch is equipped with a classical slide-operated minute repeating mechanism. The manually-wound movement, with 30 jewels, has a 46-hour running time, a monometallic balance with screws and a swan’s neck regulator.

The platinum case with sapphire crystal and snap-on back is complemented by a hand-sewn black crocodile leather strap with platinum buckle. The silver engine turned dial with fine barley-corn pattern is enhanced by the newly-developed blued-steel and gold hands which revive an old Jürgensen tradition.

Reference minute repeating and tourbillon
The twin complications of minute repeating and one-minute tourbillon are elegantly combined in this platinum-cased wrist watch. The manually-wound movement, with 36 jewels, has a 46-hour running time, a monometallic balance with screws, a balance spring with Breguet overcoil and a swan’s-neck regulator.

The platinum case, with a sapphire crystal, has a hand-sewn black crocodile-leather strap with a platinum buckle. The movement, decorated with Geneva stripes, is visible through the sapphire back, retained by 6 screws. The silver engine-turned dial is available in two versions; closed, with a fully engine-turned surface, or with a large opening to partially reveal the minute-repeating mechanism. The Jürgensen hands are made from blued-steel and gold.

Reference minute repeating and minute-recording chronograph
This unique watch, with an extremely thin (4.80 mm) movement, was in the Jürgensen workshops from February 1998 until its completion in December 2005.The manually-wound movement, with 35 jewels, has a 44-hour running time, and a bimetallic compensation-balance with screws, minute repeating, single-button chronograph mechanism with central seconds and 30-minute recording.

The 40 mm diameter platinum case has sapphire crystals at the front and back. The latter offers an unrestricted view of the exquisitely finished movement. The hand-sewn crocodile leather strap has a platinum buckle. The silver engine-turned dial, with gold individually-applied Arabic numerals, is decorated with a fine “barley-corn” pattern. The centres of the subsidiary chapter rings for the running seconds and recorded minutes are decorated with “basket” pattern. The hands are the newly-developed Urban Jürgensen combination of blued-steel and gold.

Urban Jürgensen & Sønner Oval Tourbillon Pocket Watch
Platinum-cased oval tourbillon pocket watch with silver engine-turned dial and gold hands. The dial is signed Urban Jürgensen & Sønner, Copenhagen, Oval No. 1 and has sectors for the state of wind indication on the left and temperature on the right. The unique key-wound movement has all major elements visible and particular attention has been given to symmetry.

A large one-minute flying tourbillon with Earnshaw type spring-detent escapement and one-second remontoire is balanced by an equally large flying spring barrel of unusual design to ensure perfect stability