Limited Edition of 38 pieces, this new Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon watch features an eye-catching aventurine glass dial and a 38mm diameter white gold case with a diamond-set bezel
Aventurine glass is a magical material that mirrors the starry night sky. The Altiplano Tourbillon Aventurine dial features an ultra-thin flying tourbillon carriage in an off-centered window at 2 o’clock. The tourbillon cage forms an infinity symbol (figure of 8) along with the offset dial positioned at 8 o’clock.
In 2017, Piaget celebrated the 60th anniversary of its ultra-thin movement with the unveiling of the ultra-thin Altiplano Flying Tourbillon, putting the movement at the service of the design.
This manufacture manual-winding movement featured the time at eight o’clock and the tourbillon at two o’clock. It is comprised of 157 ultra-thin and ultra-light components, such as a carriage measuring a mere 2.88mm, and three titanium bridges weighing no more than 0.2g.
This watch comes in a 38mm white gold case with baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel, a first for an Altiplano Tourbillon of this size. The lugs and the crown are set with 13 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.19 ct) while the bezel is adorned with 48 baguette- cut diamonds (approx. 2.06 cts).
This Altiplano timepiece houses the Piaget Manufacture 670P Tourbillon calibre. Its sapphire case back provides a stunning view of this ultra-thin movement.
The Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon also holds a patent for its stem mechanism, featuring an intermediate wheel that looks like a staircase and enables the user to set the time of the off-centered dial — another first in the watch industry.
The watch is paired with a dark blue alligator strap with an 18K white gold clasp adorned with 24 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.06 ct).
Case
Material: 18K white gold
Diameter: 38 mm
Thickness: 7.35mm
Lugs and crown set with 13 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx.0.19ct)
Bezel set with 48 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 2.06 cts)
Sapphire case back
Movement
Piaget manufacture ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical Tourbillon movement (670P)
Power reserve: 48 hours
Dial
Aventurine glass dial with white gold coloured index
Functions
Off-centered hours and minutes at 8 o’ clock, flying tourbillon at 2 o’ clock, seconds indicated by the tourbillon carriage at 2 o’ clock
Strap
Shiny dark blue alligator strap with 18K white gold folding clasp, set with 24 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx.0.06ct)
BOVET 1822 presents Battista Tourbillon in collaboration with Automobili Pininfarina to celebrate the launch of the world’s first pure electric hyper GT.
Created alongside Battista hyper GT, this beautifully-designed and sophisticated timepiece reflects design excellence and craftsmanship of BOVET 1822 and Automobili Pininfarina.
Battista hyper GT is the first automobile designed and completely assembled in Cambiano. And, Battista Tourbillon is the first timepiece born from the partnership between the two iconic houses.
The Automobili Pininfarina and BOVET design teams worked hand-in-hand in the creation of the Battista Tourbillon. With a focus on lightness and purity, the timepiece extends Battista’s design philosophy and brings it to another dimension.
Detailing inspired by Battista’s most characteristic design features can be found in every part of the timepiece, including the movement’s mechanical components. The exquisite craftsmanship of BOVET made it possible to design remarkable details that only the most skilled artisans can manufacture by hand.
Box sapphire crystals on both sides ensure that the inner beauty of this mechanical masterpiece can be enjoyed and admired, opening up the view of the movement visible from all sides.
In addition, the sapphire crystals are shaped at 12 and 6 o’clock to integrate the specially designed Vegan rubber straps. The process of manufacturing a timepiece at this level of complexity and quality is based around the highly skilled artisans from the house of BOVET.
The Battista Tourbillon features exquisite detailing inspired by the design language and features of the hyper-GT itself. Every element of the timepiece’s design has been crafted to reflect Automobili Pininfarina’s PURA design philosophy, which uses elegant simplicity and lightness as its starting point.
Combining many areas of expertise from both sides, the timepiece incorporates fresh and groundbreaking ideas within a classically-oriented watchmaking structure coupled with extraordinary finishing.
Inspiration for this came from Battista’s most recognizable features, like the exterior curves and design details. The Automobili Pininfarina and BOVET design teams took these shapes and created watch hands, bridges, dials, and other structures that connect the design of Battista to that of the timepiece.
The design features more fluid, Pininfarina-style shapes compared to traditional timepieces. As an example, the flying bridge above the two main dials of the timepiece has a subtle three-dimensionality that is unique and reflects the curves of the Battista.
Throughout the entire timepiece, references to Battista can be found. Subtle background characteristics such as the Triangolo pattern on the dials or the top of the Battista, reimagined in miniature and viewed through the sapphire crystal exhibition case back, marry the timepiece and the hypercar.
The timepiece features the Automobili Pininfarina and BOVET collaborative flags on the power-reserve dial, a signature Pininfarina detail that celebrates both companies’ heritage and future.
One of Battista’s most recognizable features, the E-Heart represents Automobili Pininfarina’s spirit for constant innovation. It is the physical element that, besides being functional, acts as an icon on Battista and all the following automobiles.
Where in Battista the E-Heart indicates the state of charging, in the Battista Tourbillon the E Heart-shaped aperture of the Big Date on the front, and on the back showing BOVET’s patented differential winding mechanism; the mechanism that makes rewinding the timepiece for a full 10 day of power reserve easier and quicker.
The Battista Tourbillon truly represents the pinnacle of haute horlogerie. From the exquisite details and finishing of each and every component to the utmost complexity of the movement, the timepiece is a showcase of high watchmaking at its finest. Each element, whether functional or decorative, is designed to represent the shared values of Automobili Pininfarina and BOVET.
The construction of the Battista Tourbillon results in a highly three-dimensional appearance, with each part of the movement and its complications clearly visible both from the face of the timepiece as well as through the exhibition case back and the exposed sides. The 45.6-millimeter case consists of two large sapphire crystals, enhancing the lightness and purity of the design.
The two-tone blue dials on the face of the timepiece, for the first time in the almost 200-year history of BOVET, are asymmetrical, featuring Battista’s Triangolo pattern and shaded from light to dark blue, while together forming the shape of the number “90,” a reference to the Battista Anniversario and Pininfarina’s 90-year heritage.
On the power-reserve dial on the left, the famous Pininfarina collaborative flags icon can be found, with the “F” for Pininfarina on the left and the Lotus Flower for BOVET on the right.
Further references to Battista’s design can be found throughout the face of the timepiece. Above the two main dials, the flying bridge resembles Battista’s curves, and the “V” in BOVET, while the tourbillon cage is inspired by its Impulso wheels of the Battista with their center-lock technology. The hands of the timepiece and the hour-indication ring are a reference to the curves of Battista’s exterior.
Through the exhibition case back, the main structure of the movement can be admired, which is an abstract representation of Battista’s curves that wrap around the teardrop shaped Goccia roof like a clamshell. The two-tone coloring of the bridges supports this reference to Battista.
The fine detailing in Iconica Blu is combined with traditional finishing such as Côtes de Genève, angling, and polishing. In addition, Super-LumiNova has been generously applied to all the hands, including the seconds indication structure on the top of the tourbillon cage, the ring underneath the tourbillon, as well as the hand of the power reserve, the indices, and even the Big Date display.
Finally, the signature of Battista “Pinin” Farina, the legendary designer who started it all, graces the dial above the date display.
The Battista Tourbillon features a brand-new movement using Bovet’s patented double face tourbillon, running at 18,000 vibrations per hour, with an incredible 10-day power reserve with just a single barrel. This movement was created specifically for the Battista Tourbillon, following the design input from Automobili Pininfarina.
Developing this new movement, placing the hour and minute hands in the center, adding a grand date, and redesigning the tourbillon cage was done entirely in-house by BOVET, working closely with the APF design team.
The patented two-sided flying tourbillon is attached at the center of its axis, and the weight distribution of the escapement and balance-spring drastically reduces the lever-arm effect and friction, another example of the high precision and complexity of this movement.
The miniaturization of the winding mechanism resulted in a second patent — a mechanical watch with 10-days of power reserve would typically require twice as many turns of the crown to wind; however, the exclusive winding system in the Battista Tourbillon and its spherical differential halves this number.
The hair spring and the regulating organ of this new tourbillon movement are manufactured in-house – BOVET 1822 is one of only a handful of companies in the world that can produce its own hair springs and escapements.
Both houses emphasize the importance of hand craftsmanship in their products. At BOVET 1822, in combination with the most modern manufacturing methods, an artisan hand-finishes every component throughout the production process, whether it is polishing, angling, teethcutting, hardening, engraving, or decorating. And, at the end of the process, each and every timepiece is assembled, by hand, by master watchmakers.
Likewise, each Battista hyper GT is meticulously hand-finished at Automobili Pininfarina’s bespoke facility in Cambiano, Italy, with every element of the car the driver and passenger interacts with impeccably detailed by a team of experienced and passionate artisans. Every client specifying a Battista is invited into the Automobili Pininfarina family to work with the design and engineering teams to create their personal, perfect Battista.
Although its case measures 45.6mm diameter, the Battista Tourbillon is surprisingly light weight. The configuration of the re-designed BOVET bow at the 12 0’clock positions makes it possible for the timepiece to fit just about any size of wrist.
And, thanks to the skeletonized structures of the movement itself and the sapphire crystals on both sides, the Battista is thin and extremely comfortable. The flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, in perpetual motion thanks to its astounding 10- day power reserve, is mesmerizing and a key point of focus when checking the time. The big date on the right-hand dial keeps you on schedule, and it is easily set thanks to a corrector on the side of the case.
The Battista pure-electric hyper GT also combines the sustainable luxury concepts envisaged by both firms.
In the Battista hyper GT, new methodologies have been introduced for tanning seat leather with olive leaves, recycling materials throughout the production process, and creating innovative new materials by combining off-cuts of leather and wood.
Mechanical timepieces are by their very nature sustainable. In addition, the BOVET 1822 manufacturing processes have been reconfigured to capture and recycle any and all waste, including metal, oils, treatments, and other materials.
With the Battista Tourbillon, the decision was to not use alligator leather straps, but instead a new two-tone rubber strap was designed and produced that is 100% Vegan.
About Automobili Pininfarina
Automobili Pininfarina is based in operational headquarters in Munich, Germany, with a team of experienced automotive executives from luxury and premium car brands. Designed, engineered and produced by hand in Italy, the Battista hyper GT and all future models will be sold and serviced in all major global markets under the brand name Pininfarina. The new company aims to be the most sustainable luxury car brand in the world.
The company is a 100 per cent Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd investment and has been named Automobili Pininfarina following the signing of a trademark license agreement between Pininfarina S.p.A. and Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd. Pininfarina S.p.A. will take an influential role in supporting design and production capacities based on their unique 90-year experience of producing many of the world’s most iconic cars.
The Automobili Pininfarina Battista
The Battista is be the most powerful car ever designed and built in Italy and it will deliver a level of performance that is unachievable today in any road legal sports car featuring internal combustion engine technology. Faster than a current Formula 1 race car in its 0 -100 km/h sub-two second sprint, and with more than 1,900 hp and 2,300 Nm torque on tap, the Battista will combine extreme engineering and technology in a zero emissions package.
The Battista’s 120 kWh battery provides power to four electric motors – one at each wheel – with a simulated WLTP range of over 500 km (310 miles) on a single charge. No more than 150 Battistas will be individually hand-crafted at the Pininfarina SpA atelier in Cambiano, Italy.
Technical details
Model: BOVET Battista Tourbillon
Reference Number TPINBA.001/XX/001
Edition
Limited edition to 30 timepieces in Polished Titanium, 30 in Red Gold and 30 in Platinum
Case
Type: Pininfarina
Diameter: 45.60mm
Thickness: 11.95mm
Material: Grade 5 Titanium and sapphire crystal
Strap: Rubber bi-color
Buckle: Titanium pin buckle
Water resistance: 30m
Movement
Calibre 16BM01TVGD
Type: Hand wound mechanical Haute Horlogerie tourbillon movement
Diameter: 16 ½ ‘’’
Frequency: 18,000 v/h
Power reserve: 10 days, single barrel
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds on double-sides flying tourbillon, big date, power reserve indicator
Dial
Two asymmetrical blue dials forming 90 (for the Anniversary of Pininfarina), blued hour and minutes hands
Components
453 – including 400 components for the movement
Patents
Spherical winding
Three-dimensional toothing with multiple gearing
Double face tourbillon
To mark its 10th anniversary, Swiss luxury watch brand CYRUS Genève presents a special edition timepiece from its KLEPCYS collection.
Founded in 2010, CYRUS Genève turned 10 in 2020. To celebrate this important milestone, the Swiss Manufacture has created the KLEPCYS VERTICAL SKELETON TOURBILLON SAPPHIRE watch in a limited series of 10 pieces.
Designed by master-watchmaker Jean-François Mojon, the first edition of the Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon was released in 2018. It features an innovative manual winding movement with a vertical tourbillon cage. Placed in the middle of the dial for the first time, the tourbillon cage is set on a vertical axis at a 90° angle.
The unique 3-D open-worked dial further enhances the magnificence of this astonishing mechanism. The transparent sapphire crystal case of the anniversary edition allows a complete view of the movement from all angles.
Composed of a total of 29 parts (the sapphire crystal components are the case body with lugs, the bezel, the case back ring and the two sapphire glasses on the dial and on the back side) the style of the 44 mm case, excluding the functional 18k 4N rose gold twin-crowns, has been redesigned to hide a maximum of fasteners, screws and steel elements. Some recessed edges have been slightly rounded to make machining and polishing possible without compromising on design and the strong character of this watch.
The transparency of the case contributes to highlight the18K 4N gold arch, inspired by Leonardo da Vinci’s self-supporting bridge, which symmetrically divides the hours and minutes indications. Due to this lay-out, the KLEPCYS VERTICAL SKELETON TOURBILLON SAPPHIRE shows the jumping retrograde hours on a left black micro-beaded arch with luminescent Arabic numerals while the sweeping retrograde minutes are read off on the right arch. Hour and minute hands are also covered with Super-LumiNova for better legibility in dark light conditions.
The seconds are visible on the tourbillon cage thanks to small numbered plates on a 5- second interval scale. Between the two arches of the tourbillon bridge, a black DLC microbillé sphere with a 5mm diameter, set at 12 o’clock, catches the eye. It displays the days of the power reserve (1-4). To achieve a balanced effect, the CYRUS logo is set at 6 o’clock.
This original 3D structure is protected by a tailor-made sapphire crystal glass which is domed and anti-reflective, with a thickness of 1.2 mm.
Thanks to its transparent nature and exclusive open-worked dial, all the features of the in-house manufacture hand-wound movement, calibre CYR625, beating at 21.600 vph and offering over 100-hour power reserve, can be admired in full.
This extra-ordinary mechanical movement can also be seen from the case back. This reveals the masterful finish executed by the highly skilled master artisans at CYRUS Genève. The grey-colored bridges, thanks to the NAC galvanic treatment, are decorated with embossed sunray pattern and have a micro-beaded satin finish that contrasts with the polished finish of the edges.
The two parallel barrels have black lacquered ratchet-wheels adorned with CYRUS’s signature propeller-like logo. The sapphire crystal ring which secures the case back with customized screws, is engraved with the inscription “10 years CYRUS – Est. 2010”.
This new timepiece is completed with a white rubber strap featuring a new embossed prism pattern and is fitted with a 18K 4N gold folding buckle embellished with the CYRUS logo.
Movement
In-house manufactured hand-winding movement, calibre CYR625
Dimensions: 36.4 mm Ø x 14.4 mm thickness
Number of parts of the complete movement: 344
Number of jewels: 51
Frequency: 3 Hz
Vibrations per hour: 21,600
Power reserve: more than 100 hours
Two parallel barrels with black lacquered ratchet-wheels with the Cyrus logo
Swiss pallet fork escapement
Variable-inertia balance wheel
Bridges: decoration with slightly curved sunray pattern alternating polished and an opaque, sandblasted effect
Grey NAC galvanic treatment on the surfaces
Bridge screws with mirror-polished heads
Tourbillon cage
Material: steel
Number of parts of the tourbillon cage: 52
Weight of the cage: 0.706 g.
Central tourbillon on vertical axis at a 90° angle
Complete rotation in 1 minute
Functions
Jumping retrograde hours on the left side of the dial
Sweeping retrograde minutes on the right side of the dial
Seconds on the tourbillon cage with blocks graduated at 5 second intervals, and 60 seconds highlighted in red
Power reserve displayed through a sphere set at 12 o’clock (1-4 days)
Case
Cushion-shaped sapphire crystal case composed of a total of 29 parts
Diameter: 44 mm excluding the crowns
Thickness: 19.9 mm
Crown at 3 o’clock: in position 1, it winds the movement; in position, 2 it adjusts the time
Crown at 9 o’clock: hour increment by pressing the pusher
Decoration of crowns in 18K 4n rose gold: engraved Cyrus logo –white caoutchouc rubber ring decorated with small embossed squares
Sapphire crystal on dial: anti-reflective treatment on both sides, domed and tailor-made, thickness of 1.2 mm
Case back: transparent, with anti-reflective sapphire crystal on one side, fastened with screws customised with the Cyrus logo, engraved with the inscription “10 years CYRUS – Est. 2010”
Water resistant to 3 ATM (30 m. – 100 ft
Dial
Open-worked dial with different decorations of the components such as:
Two parallel barrels (between 12 and 9 and between minutes 00 and 25): rhodium plated with engraved triangle motif
Wheels: rhodium plated and decorated with a cerclage effect
Bridges (between 9 and 5 and between 20 and 40 minutes): microbeaded finish in NAC galvanic black
Mirror-polished cams
Central Tourbillon Bridge comprising two brass arches in18K 4N gold with microbeaded finish, bevelled and polished edges
Sweeping retrograde minute arch to the right with microbeaded finish, white Arabic numerals and indices, trimmed with a golden edge
Retrograde hour arch to the left, white Arabic numerals and indices, trimmed with a golden edge
Hour/minute hands: exclusive Cyrus design, open-worked, 4N gold plated, luminescent tips
5 mm sphere indicating the power reserve (1-4 days in white numerals), black DLC “microbeaded finish
Strap
White rubber strap with new embossed prism pattern
18K 4N gold folding buckle customised with the CYRUS logo
Representing the perfect union of man and nature, the conquest of fire (around 500,000 BC) was a major milestone in the history of human beings. Louis Moinet presents HEAT, an 18-carat rose gold tourbillon watch as a tribute to the conquest of fire.
Its dial boasts a skull engraving of an Australopithecus, one of the first species of humankind, dating back more than four million years. Made of rose-cut rubies, the glowing red eyes of the skull overlooks an engraving decorated with miniature paintings that symbolise the first flames mastered by man. The base is made of a natural stone, red pietersite, which also embodies the dancing of incandescent flames.
The Louis Moinet HEAT watch houses the LM Calibre 35, an award-winning high precision manual-winding tourbillon movement with a power reserve of 72 hours.
Technical details
Dial
Hand-engraved Australopithecus skull
Rose-cut ruby eyes (24 facets) (0.39 carats)
Hand-engraved flames, enhanced with miniature painting
Engraved surround, set with 2 kite-cut diamonds (0.11 carats) and 18 cabochon-cut diamonds (0.02 carats)
Case
18-carat rose gold
Four flame-engraved lugs adorned with blue sapphires
Hand-engraved bezel, complementing the fire theme
Movement
LM Calibre 35
60-second tourbillon movement, awarded the Gold Medal at the last International Chronometry Competition)
Presentation box
Genuine natural stone presentation box
The interior is decorated with a hand axe, a carved stone tool characteristic of prehistoric times.
Greubel Forsey During Geneva Watch Days 2021, Greubel Forsey launched the third and final interpretation of its GMT Earth. Made of titanium, this intense black version is a limited edition of 11 pieces.
The GMT Earth by Greubel Forsey is an extraordinary wristwatch that, for the first time, makes it possible to appreciate the entirety of the world in a single glance.
This technical feat first appeared in 2011. At the time of the first “GMT”, the Earth was not yet fully revealed. Seven years later, the design of the Earth was finally complete: visible from all angles in its new sapphire alcove, it appears as though it is floating in space. On the front as well as the back, the laser-engraved Earth shows world times that are both quick and easy to read.
The first version of the GMT Earth was in white gold. The second was in platinum. Now, this timepiece is available with a new titanium case. The GMT Earth in titanium will be available in a limited edition of 11 pieces, three times less than the original version. Weighing just 117g, the weight of the strap has been reduced by two-thirds. The case has lost just over a third of its weight.
Titanium is used not only for the entire case, but also the bridges, the GMT push-piece, the crown and the folding buckle, the latter two being the components most exposed to shocks and scratches.
To accompany the light and matt tones of titanium, Greubel Forsey opted for a black finish on the dial. It is applied to the spotted bottom plate and to all the frosted bridges, with straight flanks, polished bevelling and countersinks. This finish is also featured on an all-black natural rubber strap, whose inner face is engraved with the cardinal values of the Greubel Forsey Atelier and which are visible on the bezel.
The GMT Earth displays four key pieces of information on its dial side. The first is the off-centre hours, minutes and seconds display. The first two feature large openworked hands finished with a Super-LumiNova tip, complemented by a small seconds hand on a sapphire disc at three o’clock.
On the left is the GMT indicator, whose red hand effortlessly stands out against a hand-engraved black gold disc filled with lacquer. The third, located opposite the crown, is the power reserve, designed following the same process: a black, engraved gold segment, filled with lacquer and covered by a silver-polished steel hand.
Finally between 7 o’clock and 9 o’clock, the Earth occupies the largest space, completing a full rotation in 24 hours. The engraved sapphire ring around the equator acts as a day / night indication and allows you to instantly see which hemisphere is in the daytime and which is at night.
Located on the side of the caseband, a final window opens to show the equator. Thanks to this, the Earth really can be seen from all angles.
Finally, on the caseback side, the worldtime display indicator completes the design. 24 time zones indicate the UTC of 24 major cities – with those that observe daylight savings on a white background.
The GMT Earth boasts Greubel Forsey’s third invention Tourbillon 24 Secondes, which uses a fast rotation speed and is set at an angle to resolve the positioning problem in relation to gravity and which is crucial for the operation of the oscillator. The 25° angle and the rapid rotation of the tourbillon cage significantly improve the chronometric performance of a system containing only one tourbillon, especially those in fixed positions.
Technical details
Model: GMT Earth
Edition
Limited edition of 11 pieces in titanium
Special features
GMT • 2nd time zone • rotating globe with universal time and day-and-night • complete and global view from northern to southern hemisphere • universal time on 24 time zones • summer and winter time • cities observing summer time • lateral window showing the equator • GMT pusher • Tourbillon 24 Secondes • hours and minutes • small seconds • power-reserve indicator
Movement
Hand-wound movement with 3 patents
Movement dimensions
• Diameter: 36.40mm
• Thickness: 11.55mm
Number of parts
• Movement: 453 parts
• Tourbillon cage: 86 parts
• Weight of the cage: 0.39g
Number of jewels
• 60
• Olived-domed jewels in gold chatons
Chronometric power reserve
• 72 hours
Barrels
• Two coaxial series-coupled fast-rotating barrels (1 turn in 3.2 hours), one of which is equipped with a slipping spring to avoid excess tension
Balance wheel
• Variable-inertia with gold mean-time screws (10mm diameter)
Frequency
• 21’600 vibrations/hour
Balance spring
• Phillips terminal curve
• Geneva-style stud
Main plate
• Nickel silver, frosted and spotted with polished bevelling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks, black treatment
Bridges
• Nickel silver, frosted with polished bevelling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks, black treatment
• Flat black polished steel tourbillon bridge, hand-polished bevelling and countersinks
• Flat black polished steel screws, blued by heat treatment
Gearing
• Involute circle profile
• Tangential inclined gear on fixed wheel and profiled teeth on escape wheel pinion
Displays
Hours and minutes
Small seconds
72-hours power reserve on a sector
2nd time zone GMT
24 time zones universal time
Rotating titanium globe with universal time
Complete view from North Pole to South Pole
Summer time
Day-and-night
Exterior
Case
In titanium, with titanium plates, engraved, hand-finished with text, screwed to the caseband
Lateral window with shaped synthetic sapphire crystal
Three-dimensional, variable geometry-shaped lugs
Three-dimensional synthetic sapphire crystal caseback, with integrated dome
Three-dimensional, asymmetrical, synthetic sapphire crystal bezel
Raised polished engraving “GMT Earth” and “Greubel Forsey” on a hand-punched background
Gold security screws
Titanium GMT pusher with raised engraving on a hand-punched background
Engraved individual number
Water-resistance: 3atm – 30m – 100ft (standard NIHS 92-20/SN ISO 22810:2010)
Case dimensions
Diameter: 45.50mm
Height: case 16.18mm
Height on synthetic sapphire dome: 18.00mm
Crown
In titanium, synthetic sapphire insert with GF logo
Dial Side
Multi-level hour-ring in synthetic sapphire, galvanic growth hour indexes, engraved and lacquered minutes and small seconds
Power-reserve and GMT indicators in gold, engraved and lacquered, circular-grained, black treatment
Rotating globe with day-and-night UTC indicator in synthetic sapphire, engraved and lacquered
Movement Side
Synthetic sapphire disc displaying city names surrounded by 2 gold rings (UTC and summer time) engraved and lacquered
Gold “summer time” plate with individual number, raised engraving
South Pole of the globe with UTC indicator, engraved and lacquered, hand matt lapped
Hands
Hours, minutes, small seconds and power-reserve in polished steel, hand-polished countersinks
2nd time zone GMT indicator, red triangle
Strap and clasp
Rubber or hand-sewn alligator
Titanium folding clasp, engraved with the GF logo
On the occasion of the “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibition, Patek Philippe released a new iteration of its Ref. 6002R-001 Sky Moon Tourbillon watch featuring a hand-engraved rose-gold case with a brown dial in grand feu champlevé and cloisonné enamel
Debuted in 2001, the Ref. 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon is Patek Philippe’s second most complicated wristwatch. It is one of the grand complications most coveted by collectors and connoisseurs. From 2013 to 2016, this double-face wristwatch was available in a rare handcrafts version with a white-gold case and a blue enamel dial (6002G-001). It was followed in 2016 by a new version with a black enamel dial (6002G-010).
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA
The new iteration released during “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” combines the warm shimmer of rose gold with brown grand feu enamel. The periphery of the dial, the moon-phase aperture, and the moon of the rotating disc are executed in champlevé enamel. With this technique, the base metal must first be precisely milled out so that individual elements such as the minute scale remain relieved.
Then, the recesses are manually filled with enamel compound. The center of the dial features a decor in grand feu cloisonné enamel that was created with the help of thin flat gold wire. The case, the crowns, the repeater slide, and the fold-over clasp are manually engraved with a motif of volutes and arabesques on all sides. The master engraver invests more than 100 hours of work and considerable patience to complete the process to the highest standards.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA
The Sky Moon Tourbillon combines 12 fascinating complications, including a tourbillon and a minute repeater that strikes on cathedral gongs. The front dial shows a perpetual calendar with a retrograde date, a moon-phase display and the leap year cycle.
The other side shows a celestial chart on which the apparent motion of the moon and the stars can be viewed from the northern hemisphere. To orchestrate the grand ballet of the celestial bodies, Patek Philippe developed a system of three superposed discs that move in different, precisely calculated trajectories.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA
The new Ref. 6002R-001 Sky Moon Tourbillon is delivered with hand-engraved cufflinks in rose gold. It replaces the Ref. 6002G-010 in white gold with a black grand feu enamel dial.
Technical details
Movement
Mechanical manually wound movement
Caliber R TO 27 QR SID LU CL
Third wheel in gold
Flywheel
Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 12.61 mm
Parts: 705
Bridges: 24
Jewels: 55
Power reserve: min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Spiral: Breguet
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Functions
Minute repeater with “cathedral” gongs
Tourbillon
Perpetual Calendar
Display
Front side: Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand. Day, month, leap year in apertures. Hours and minutes of mean solar time. Moon phases
Reverse side: sidereal time, sky chart, phases and orbit of the moon.
Dial
Grand Feu champlevé and cloisonné brown enamel, gold applied Roman numerals
18K gold dial plate
Case
Rose gold
Sapphire-crystal case back
Humidity-and dust-protected only (not water-resistant)
Case diameter: 44 mm. Height: 17.35 mm.
About Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 Collection
On the occasion of the “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibitionin June 2021, Patek Philippe launched six exceptional wristwatches featuring artistic decorations such as manual engraving, grand feu cloisonné enamel, grand feu champlevé enamel, grand feu flinqué enamel, manual guilloching and gemsetting.
Developed by French-Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet about two centuries ago, Tourbillon is one of the most complex and intriguing horological complications. It is an extremely challenging mechanism, so only a few skilled watchmakers are capable of crafting it. Traditionally, Swiss made tourbillon wristwatches are extremely expensive, making them unattainable by most of the watch lovers.
Known for its innovative ‘Afluendor sales concept’, BA111OD was founded by Thomas Baillod. After the successful launch of its first three chapters (watch collections), the Swiss watchmaking firm is presently offering its Chapter 4, a Swiss Made Tourbillon for less than CHF 4’000.00!
With the brand’s innovative commercial approach, the luxury wristwatches equipped with the prestigious tourbillon are now available to a large audience. Christened The Veblen Dilemma Tourbillon, this affordable high complication sends a powerful message to the future of the Swiss watch industry, suppliers and retailers, by reinforcing the attractiveness of the mechanical timepieces.
The Chapter 4 Tourbillon wristwatch was developed in collaboration with a number of Neuchâtel companies with an aim to revitalize the production of both entry-level and mid-range segment watches with Swiss Made quality label.
This 43 mm diameter tourbillon will be entirely produced in the canton of Neuchâtel and its nearby surroundings. The hand-wound Tourbillon caliber, which runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour, was developed by BCP Tourbillons SA in partnership with the veteran watchmaker Olivier Mory.
This highly complicated movement is being offered by the BA111OD watch brand in a customized version, as the BA.01. With a two-year warranty, with 105 hours of power reserve (more than four days) and a shock tolerance of more than 5,000 G, the hand-wound Tourbillon in Chapter 4 by BA111OD is offering a rotating cage that turns in 60 seconds.
This fine watchmaking complication also renders the full range of traditional finishings and decorations: polished-blocked, chamfered and blued screws, double-sided ringed gear train, rolled pivots, etc.
Made of grade 5 titanium, the case of the Veblen Dilemma tourbillon watch features a DLC Black Ice coating. On the edge of the plate, the watch features engraving “To love time, that one which does not count.”
The watch is fitted on an Italian Saffiano cowhide leather strap with night blue stitches, and embedded with the sophisticated NFC technology.
Limited to 220 pieces as a tribute to the 220th anniversary of the Tourbillon, the BA111OD Swiss Made Tourbillon watch is available at an accessible price of CHF 3’920.00 (excluding VAT). Estimated delivery: April 2022.
The companies associated with BA111OD’s Chapter 4 Tourbillon are:
BCP Tourbillons SA: Based in Cortaillod in the canton of Neuchâtel, BCP Tourbillons SA is a manufacturer of Swiss made mechanical movements.
derdiedas.design: Founded by Claudio Orlando, derdiedas.design is watch design firm specialized in 3D modeling and realization of virtual images.
Madeness Solutions Lab SA: Based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Madeness Solutions Lab SA is a supplier of watch components. Its director is Fabien Brisebard.
Develop Your Watch Sàrl: Founded by Miguel Bolea, Develop Your Watch Sàrl is a product development company based at Sutz in the Biel/Bienne administrative district. This firm offers suitable solutions to watch brands in designing and developing timepieces.
DM surfaces SA: Based in Saint Imier, DM surfaces SA undertake machining, decorations, laser engarving and surface treatments of the watch components. Raynald Favre is the director of this company.
Iseotec SA: Iseotec SA is a La Chaux-de-Fonds based firm specialized in the manufacturing of watch components like case, dial plate, buckle and clasp. Its director is Emeric Chopard.
Estima SA: Based in Grenchen, Estima manufactures watch hands and dials.
Technical details
Model: The Veblen Dilemma Tourbillon
Reference: CHAPTER 4.1 T.V.D.
Movement
Mechanical hand-wound caliber BA.01 (base BCP Tourbillon)
21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hertz)
Variable inertia balance
19 jewels
Over 5000 G shock resistance
105 hours power reserve (more than 4 days)
Functions
Hours and minutes
Tourbillon at 6 o’clock
Case
Case in grade 5 titanium treated with DLC Black Ice (gun metal anthracite)
43 mm diameter
Water resistance: 50 meters
Dial
Semi-open dial according to an original design
Hands covered with SuperLuminova
Bracelet
Smart bracelet (insertion of an NFC emitting chip)
Frederique Constant presents a high complication watch that combines two iconic horological complications: Perpetual Calendar and Tourbillon. Belongs to the Frederique Constant Highlife collection this timepiece is available in 18 carat rose gold and stainless steel versions. The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar watch is equipped with the FC-975 Manufacture self-winding movement.
Within the 41 mm case with the integrated strap characteristic of the Highlife collection, Frederique Constant has organised its complications into four segments.
The brand has arranged the day and date counters horizontally so that they can be read in a natural and intuitive way in a fraction of a second.
Brought together in a single counter at 12 o’clock are the month (large hand) and leap year indication (small hand). Adding the finishing touch to this perfectly mastered aesthetic composition, the tourbillon balances it out at 6 o’clock, counting down the seconds with its central hand.
The FC-975 calibre is designed, produced and assembled in very limited numbers at the Geneva-based manufacture. For greater precision, Frederique Constant has equipped it with a silicone escapement – both the escape wheel and the lever.
The inner workings of this exceptional movement can be admired from any angle on the Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, on the dial side and on the back. Correctors used to set the watch are discreetly tucked away in the caseband.
The two versions are dominated by the colour blue. On both sides of the complications on display, Frederique Constant has opted for a face without a dial. This allows you to see the inner workings of the FC-975 Manufacture calibre, alongside the delicate blued screws, perlage and subtle Côtes de Genève.
It also improves the contrast between the rhodium-plated movement and the perpetual calendar display. To ensure it is easy to read, the Manufacture has also been careful to give them recessed counters on two levels, so as to better capture the light.
Although the Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture is strictly limited to 30 pieces for the rose gold version and 88 for the steel version, collectors can create different looks for their numbered and engraved watches. Each one comes with two straps, which can be swapped around at will, without the need for tools.
The rose gold version comes with a topstitched alligator leather strap, alongside a second rubber strap, reinforcing the urban and contemporary attitude that the Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture can take on in seconds.
This same rubber strap also comes with the steel watch, alongside a steel strap with a three-link design comprised of polished and satin-brushed links and a folding buckle bearing the Frederique Constant hallmark.
Technical details
Model: Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, 18K Rose Gold Version
Reference: FC-975N4NH9
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day, month, leap year
Movement
FC-975 caliber, automatic, tourbillon, perpetual calendar
Perlage, drafted marks and Côtes de Genève decorations
38-hour power reserve, 33 jewels, 28’800 alt/h
Silicon escapement wheel and anchor
Case
Brushed and polished 18K rose gold 3-part case
Diameter of 41 mm
Height of 12.65 mm
Front convex sapphire crystal
See-through case back
Water-resistant up to 3 ATM
Dial
Skeleton dial
Navy blue outer ring with white printed second markers
Hand-polished rose gold-plated with white luminous treatment hour and minute hands
Navy blue day counter at 9 o’clock with hand-polished rose gold-plated hand
Navy blue month and year counter at 12 o’clock with hand-polished rose gold-plated hands
Navy blue date counter at 3 o’clock with hand-polished rose gold-plated hand
Open tourbillon’s cage at 6 o’clock with hand-polished rose gold-plated seconds hand
Strap
Navy blue alligator leather strap with nubuck finishing
Including an additional navy blue rubber strap
Edition
Limited to 30 pieces
Recommended retail price
39’995€
Model: Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, Steel Version
Reference: FC-975N4NH6B
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day, month, leap year
Movement
FC-975 caliber, automatic, tourbillon, perpetual calendar
Perlage, drafted marks and Côtes de Genève decorations
38-hour power reserve, 33 jewels, 28’800 alt/h
Silicon escapement wheel and anchor
Case
Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-part case
Diameter of 41 mm
Height of 12,65 mm
Front convex sapphire crystal
See-through case back
Water-resistant up to 3 ATM
Dial
Skeleton dial
Navy blue outer ring with white printed second markers
Hand-polished silvered color with white luminous treatment hour and minute hands
Navy blue day counter at 9 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hand
Navy blue month and year counter at 12 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hands
Navy blue date counter at 3 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color l hand
Open tourbillon’s cage at 6 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color second hand
Strap
Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-link bracelet
Including an additional navy blue rubber strap
During the GENEVA WATCH DAYS 2021 event, Bvlgari unveiled the Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon timepiece, which offers an original reading of time that is unique in the field of horological complications.
A metaphor inspired by the flight of the butterfly, the Papillon mechanism carries two independent retractable diamond-shaped hands positioned on a supporting disc. Each runs in turn along a 180-degree semi-circular minute track.
While the jumping hour appears in the window located at 12 o’clock, the minutes are indicated successively by each of the two hands. The first is positioned on the segment and thus signals the progression of the minutes, while the other remains in a retracted position throughout the path of the disc carrying them.
When the first hand reaches the 55th minute on the display segment, the other hand will gradually make a quarter turn to take a position parallel to the first on the 00-minute indication. The first hand will then move to the retracted position for the next 55 minutes.
The new Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon watch features a patented high-precision mechanism integrated into its mechanical heart with a 24-hour jumping hour display by means of a disc on a ceramic ball bearing via an aperture located at 12 o’clock. At the end of the 60 minutes indicated by one of the “butterfly” hands, the disc jumps to display the new time in the aperture.
The Papillon device consumes less energy than the traditional minutes display, which has a positive impact on the power reserve. This model is driven by a hand-wound mechanical Manufacture movement, Calibre BVL 332, entirely designed and assembled in the finest tradition by the master-watchmakers of the Manufacture Bulgari. It features a 60-hour power-reserve indication on the back of the rose gold Octo Roma case.
Technical details
Model: Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon, 103475
Movement
Mechanical hand-wound Manufacture movement, central flying tourbillon, Calibre BVL 332; minutes indication by means of patented device with two rose gold Papillon hands, 24-hour jumping hour display via a disc on a ceramic ball bearing, power-reserve indicator on the back; 21,600 vph (3Hz), 30 jewels; 60-hour power reserve; 330 components. Diameter: 34mm; thickness: 8.76mm.
Case
41mm rose gold case, transparent sapphire back, rose gold crown with black ceramic insert
Dial
Black matt dial with opening revealing the tourbillon cage and the Papillon system
Strap
Matt black alligator strap, rose gold folding clasp.
Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers department has been renowned for bespoke mechanical timepieces that represent the pinnacle of fine watchmaking and artisanal skills of the Geneva Maison.
Among the recent masterpieces from the Les Cabinotiers department, the the Les Cabinotiers Westminster Sonnerie – Tribute to Johannes Vermeer is a stand-out horological marvel. A project first undertaken in 2013, this bespoke pocket watch was made according to an esteemed client’s wish. This timepiece embodies art and beauty, exceptional mechanics and technical mastery.
This magnificent micromechanical wonder is equipped with a new in-house movement, Calibre 3761 with Grande Sonnerie and tourbillon, specially developed by the team of watchmakers who designed the Reference 57260 watch.
The craftsmanship adorning this timepiece is equally extraordinary. The case is hand-engraved on its bezel, back and sides using various artisanal techniques, as well as topped by a bow adorned with two hand-sculpted lion heads. The officer-type caseback is stunningly enhanced by a miniature enamel reproduction of Vermeer’s famous painting Girl with a Pearl Earring, created by enameller Anita Porchet.
Vacheron Constantin Reference 9910C/000J-B413 Pocket watch, Les Cabinotiers Westminster Sonnerie – Tribute to Johannes Vermeer
Les Cabinotiers is a department in its own right within the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin, dedicated to creating single-piece editions. Following in the footsteps of the Geneva master-watchmakers known as cabinotiers in the Age of Enlightenment, the team took up the challenge of giving substance to the dream of a passionate collector who wanted a pocket watch that was technically and aesthetically exceptional, reflecting the noblest traditions of 18th century Haute Horlogerie. To create this highly complex mechanical pocket watch, it took approximately eight years.
The Les Cabinotiers Westminster Sonnerie – Tribute to Johannes Vermeer pocket watch is powered by a new 806-part manual winding calibre, regulated by a tourbillon and comprising Grande and Petite Sonnerie Westminster chimes, coupled with a minute repeater. Within the range of watchmaking complications, Grande Sonnerie models have always enjoyed a special aura, not only because of the inherent complexity of these mechanisms striking several gongs, but also because of the musical qualities required.
Grande Sonnerie watches have a centuries-old tradition within the Maison. Among the oldest timepieces preserved to date, the first travel clock housing such a complication dates back to 1820. When it comes to pocket watches, the oldest model with Grande and Petite Sonnerie in the Vacheron Constantin private collection is dated 1827.
It was followed by several timepieces equipped with such mechanisms, some of them representing landmark creations endowed with an array of extremely sophisticated complications, such as the “Packard” presented in 1918 or the King Fouad I watch completed in 1929.
More recently, the world’s most complicated pocket watch, Reference 57260, was presented in 2015 on the occasion of the Maison’s 260th anniversary, affirming the expertise of the Maison in the realm of exceptional watchmaking.
The client who commissioned this model wanted a real Westminster chime pocket watch with striking five gongs with five hammers, featuring a Grande and Petite Sonnerie and adorned with miniature enamel. The Calibre 3761 measures 71 mm in diameter and 17 mm thick. It is regulated by a tourbillon majestically enthroned on the lower part of the movement, visible through the caseback and performing one full revolution per minute.
The tourbillon is driven by a 2.5Hz balance (18,000 vibrations per hour). The Westminster chime with which the movement is equipped with one of the most complicated striking mechanism to build, as it requires a sequence of five gongs struck in perfect harmony by their respective hammers controlled by four racks.
In wristwatches, Grande Sonnerie (grand strike) mechanisms are usually operated by a single rack, mainly for reasons of miniaturisation. The four rack and snail solution, with four racks for the hour and quarter chimes and one rack for the minute repeater, enhances the sequencing of the melodies and, as an added subtlety, enables different melodies to be played when passing the quarters.
The term ‘Westminster chime’ refers to the world-famous bells of Big Ben, the British Tower of Parliament in London: a four-bar melody consisting of four notes played at different frequencies. In “Grande Sonnerie” mode, the watch chimes the quarters in passing, with the hour repeated at each quarter, meaning three bars of the Westminster melody followed by five single notes for 5.45 am.
In “Petite Sonnerie” mode, it strikes the quarters at each change of quarter without repeating the hours; and at each change of hour, it strikes the fourth quarter – “the carillon” – as well as the hours. The strikework can be activated at any time by means of the slide on the side of the watch. The watch then functions as a minute repeater that chimes the quarters, minutes and hours in sequence. The selector switch positioned at 9 o’clock thus offers three possible modes.
In “Sonnerie” (strike) mode, the watch is automatically activated each time the quarters change, like a clock. In “Night Silence” mode, a special feature specifically developed and adapted to this 3761 calibre according to the time zone chosen by the customer, the alarm is deactivated between 11 pm and 9 am, thus saving energy as well as ensuring peace and quiet at night. The third and last “Silence” mode completely suspends the striking mechanism.
A second selector, positioned between 10 and 11 o’clock, serves to switch from Grande Sonnerie to Petite Sonnerie as preferred. The two barrels ensure an autonomy of approximately 16 hours for the musical mechanism in “Grande Sonnerie” mode and 80 hours for the time indications, with stable torque guaranteed until the end of the power reserve.
Calibre 3761 is equipped with a centripetal strike governor ensuring perfect regularity of the musical sequences, of which the notes must be both distinctly audible and pleasing to the ear. The system is characterised by a pair of weights whose very special shape has been optimised so as to generate a kind of “engine-braking effect” – by centripetal force – on the regulator’s pivot axis, thereby evening-out the energy released by the barrel.
This unique and original device is also perfectly silent. In another special feature regarding the flow of time, the calibre houses a double-wheel system with clearance adjustment. Given the size of the hands, in order to avoid any potential jerking of the seconds hand positioned at 6 o’clock, such a mechanism ensures its smooth flow thanks to a system based on two coaxial toothed wheels linked by a spring serving to eliminate gear play.
This Les Cabinotiers model demonstrates high standards and attention to detail in terms of movement finishing. All the components are thus hand-finished – from the completely engraved balance bridge to the bridges buffed with diamond paste to achieve a mirror-polished finish, as well as the galvanic treatment of the plates adorned with Côtes de Genève and featuring a soft champagne colour – creating an overall effect evoking the noblest watchmaking traditions.
The work on the ratchet wheel and the two barrel wheels is an excellent example of these meticulous tasks. The wheels first underwent surface treatment in the form of sandblasting and then sunburst finishing, before the teeth were glazed on all five gear portions. This type of finishing consists of chamfering the teeth and giving them a mirror-polished finish on the flat parts, a skill formerly used in watchmaking and that the Maison is committed to preserving. A week of patience and meticulous care was needed to decorate these three components.
The tuning of the gongs also requires a perfectionist’s spirit. First tested before being cased-up, they are shaped in such a way as to obtain the right note for each of them. This inevitably requires touching up with a file to achieve a perfect sound. There can however be surprises once the chiming mechanism is cased up. On this model, two of the five original gongs had to be replaced for the sake of harmony. By modifying the steel alloys, the sound of the two new gongs acquired a more crystal-clear entirely in tune with the other three.
This “tuning” of the Grande Sonnerie thus requires several successive casing-up procedures, since the mechanism has to be removed for any adjustments during the “trial runs” of the mechanism. These are indeed not the only elements of the assembled movement that undergo retouching during these various phases, which is why the latter take place even before the case is decorated. An additional difficulty with this single-piece edition was that it was impossible to case up the entire finished movement and part of the final assembly had to be done directly inside the case.
Given the level of finishing and decoration of each component, including the case, as well as the fact that any handling manipulation could potentially impair the quality, the ten operations involved in fitting the calibre – which had to be removed the same number of times for retouching – followed by the final assembly required an uncommonly deft touch. In the end, a very small team of specialised watchmakers conducted the making of this Calibre 3761, from the development, manufacturing and finishing of the various components to the final assembly and casing-up of the movement.
The client expressed the wish that the cover of the officer-type caseback should feature a miniature enamel painting by enameller Anita Porchet. The work chosen was Girl with a Pearl Earring, painted circa 1665 by Dutch artist Johannes Vermeer.
Above and beyond the challenge of reproducing the work of a great master, the size of the 98 mm-diameter surface implied additional difficulties. This size of watch, corresponding more to that of historical carriage watches than to a pocket model, requires a degree of dexterity all the more accurate in that the slightest irregularity is glaringly obvious.
The result is reminiscent of the grand miniature enamel painting tradition in which Geneva came to specialise. Acknowledged since the late 16th century for its production of high-quality enamels, Geneva in fact lent its name to several terms referring to the quality of the work of its craftsmen. “Geneva enamels”, a term commonly used since that time, refers to painted enamels covered with a flux known as the “Fondant de Genève”.
This technique consists of adding a final transparent and colourless protective coating to the layers of vitrified enamel, thereby giving brilliance and depth to the artist’s work. This invention greatly benefited the timepieces of the period, which were subjected to repeated friction as pocket watches.
Only a few rare master enamellers still master these techniques. One need only think of the fact that a single layer of enamel on the young girl’s oriental turban requires at least two weeks of work given the size of the model.
The colour palette is similarly complex, notably including a composition of seven shades to obtain black, as well as 20 or so firings in the kiln required to stabilise the colours. In all, seven months of intermittent work were necessary to bring this portrait to life. The research and development work – notably relating to the pigments and enamels to be used – began in 2018 and the final result was completed in 2020.
While the decoration of watches and clocks using the various enamelling techniques strongly contributed to the reputation of the Fabrique de Genève which encompassed all the watchmaking and jewellery trades in the 18th century, the term “Geneva enamels” refers above all to enamel miniature painting.
This process consists of painting colours – based on metallic oxides ground to powder and then mixed with an oil-based binder – onto a layer of white enamel coating a copper or gold leaf base. Much like in gouache or oil painting, the master artisan then applies colours to a canvas, enabling a meticulous depiction – these days under a binocular microscope – of even the smallest details. After each phase, the colours are stabilised by successive firings in the kiln, with no chance of touch ups.
The main watch dial is Grand Feu enamelled in an eggshell colour with blue enamelled Roman numerals.
The style of the engravings adorning the case was carefully studied by Vacheron Constantin’s engraver in order to blend harmoniously with Vermeer’s painting. After several proposals and discussions with the client, she chose a main ornamental theme composed of acanthus leaves running along scrolls and flowers with a pearl heart. This motif echoes the theme of The Girl with the Pearl Earring with its classical and feminine decoration.
The talents of Vacheron Constantin’s master-engraver have created a visually striking result. Her work began by outlining the décor using a scriber. She then proceeded to create a champlevé effect by flat-hollowing around the motifs, creating volume and depth by carving them with a burin.
Observation and analysis of the pattern is essential to understand the volumes before cutting into the metal. To keep the rhythm and flexibility of the acanthus leaves along the accompanying line, the curves must be stretched. The facets and stripes are then cleaned and polished. This work requires time and patience.
Polishing is indeed a delicate operation to find the right balance between the shimmer of the metal and the volumes of the sculpture which lose their dynamic appeal if they are too rounded. In order to accentuate the shadows and to add details to the leaves and flowers, slender hollow lines are made on each of them using the fine line engraving technique involving incising or hollowing out the material.
The last operation, the point-by-point hand-chasing of the background, accentuates the contrast between the matt chased champlevé surface and the polished motifs. This operation improves legibility and highlights the decoration by its shimmering appearance. Chasing creates a decoration or a texture by striking the material, unlike engraving and sculpture which involving removing material.
The adornment of the case middle is further emphasised by a double ‘pearl’ border, a reference to the painting by Johannes Vermeer. The creation of this border begins with an even distribution of engraved squares running around the bezel and caseback. Then the engraver transforms these squares into half-beads using a beading tool with a spherically hollowed tip leaving an imprint serving to form the half-beads of metal.
Handling this instrument requires a steady, rhythmical touch. The small 0.8 mm beads are then polished by hand using a brush coated with diamond paste. The effect must be regular, while maintaining the personal deft touch that gives life to the result thanks to similar yet unique reflections. This beaded or ‘pearl’ decoration that was particularly in vogue in the early 20th century requires peerless mastery and dexterity.
Like an extension of this delicate craftsmanship performed on the case middle, the bow is a work of art in itself with its two roaring lions. At the client’s request, these three-dimensional ronde bosse sculptures are inspired by classical statues. Incredibly realistic, sculpted in a block of gold, they embody a rare degree of mastery.
Before working the material in its raw state, the Vacheron Constantin engraver made several 3D prints to determine the right volumes that would enable her to express her art. To craft the lions’ heads, which are similar yet not identical in terms of their manes, she drew with a tracing point the outlines of the two profiles, from the front and from above. It is above all a question of understanding the volumes of the head in three dimensions, before starting the sculpture, which gradually makes her lose the previously traced reference points.
The head of the animal must be imprinted in her mind as an infallible reference point throughout the process in order to give it life and character. Observation and precision are essential in creating such an animal sculpture whose expression can be totally distorted by an excessively strong touch.
The engraver first used a milling cutter to rough out the material and then several burins for increasingly fine and accurate work. The details of the satin-brushed, matt and polished textures were obtained using specific tools, some created for the occasion. A total of five months of extremely meticulous craftsmanship was required to engrave and sculpt the various elements of the pocket watch.
In the interests of safety, particular attention was paid to the design of the hinged officer-type caseback. An internal mechanism inside the case facilitates access by enabling the user to half-open the caseback by pressing the crown-integrated pusher. A cone-shaped titanium pin serves as the hinge, concealed by gold screws, while a spring using approximately 90° of the case angle slows down the closing of the enamelled and engraved caseback.
The extraordinary length of the hands – the minutes hand is 35 mm long – is also a challenge, particularly when it comes to finishing the polished surfaces and ensuring an even surface. To enhance lightness, they are made of pfinodal, an alloy of copper, nickel and tin, and then gilded.
Technical details
Model: Les Cabinotiers Westminster Sonnerie –Tribute to Johannes Vermeer
Reference 9910C/000J-B413
Movement
Calibre 3761
Developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical manual winding
71 mm (31 ½’’’) diameter, 17.05 mm thick
Movement power reserve: approximately 80h
Strikework power reserve (Grande Sonnerie mode): approximately 16 hours
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
806 components
58 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Indications
Hours, minutes, small seconds
Tourbillon, minute repeater, Westminster carillon
Case
18K 3N yellow gold, engraved with acanthus leaves on the case sides and with tulips and “pearl” decor on the bezel and the caseback
Bow sculpted with two lion heads
Officer-type cover, Grand Feu miniature enamelling depicting Johannes Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring painting, handmade by Anita Porchet
98 mm diameter, 32.60 mm thick
Dial
Grand Feu eggshell-coloured enamelling
Blue enamelled numerals
Golden pfinodal hands
Presentation Box
Les Cabinotiers model exclusively developed for this timepiece
Swiss luxury watch manufacture Audemars Piguet has expanded their prestigious Royal Oak Offshore collection by unveiling the Self-winding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph. Heralding a new generation of redesigned Royal Oak Offshore models, this high complication watch features 43 mm diameter titanium case, with optimum ergonomics and sportier aesthetics.
Limited to 100 pieces, this technical and sophisticated creation incorporates two complex horological functions: Flyback chronograph and flying tourbillon. It houses a new interpretation of an in-house self-winding movement originally released in the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection. The open-worked dial reveals the movement architecture and its decorations.
While the flyback function enables to restart the chronograph without stopping or resetting it first, the flying tourbillon making its rotation at 6 o’clock compensates for the effect of gravity.
Adapted to the watch’s new diameter, Calibre 2967 presents a more sportive aesthetics attuned to the collection’s identity. Redesigned, the architectural titanium bridges adorned with black PVD coating incorporate titanium inserts for a two-tone contrast.
While the titanium bridges have been finished with satin-brushing and hand-polished angles, the inserts present an alternation of sandblasted and polished surfaces for more visual appeal. In addition, the bridges’ external chamfers have been meticulously polished to remove the black PVD coating to further the contrast of colours and textures.
The bridges also reveal part of the multi-layered movement’s two-tone components on both sides of the watch. Similarly, the flying tourbillon cage showcases the rhodium-toned balance wheel pulsating within. In addition to uncovering part of the gear train, the sapphire caseback presents the collection’s open-worked oscillating weight in 22-carat gold coated with black PVD. Both elegant and robust, this haute-horlogerie movement has an impressive power reserve of 65 hours.
Measuring 43mm diameter, the titanium case features larger polished chamfers on the edges, while the bezel and glare-proofed sapphire crystal have been vertically curved for a contemporary touch.
The black ceramics screw-locked crown and chronograph push-pieces also follow a refined curvature, while subtly echoing the movement’s grey and dark hues. The alternation of hand-polished chamfers and sandblasting finishing adorning the case and bezel also provides an impactful contrast.
Finished with circular satin-brushing, the titanium sapphire caseback boasts the engraving “Royal Oak Offshore Limited Edition of 100 Pieces.” Water resistant to 100 meters, this robust and masculine high-horology watch is perfectly suitable for sports activities.
Meticulously finished by hands, the dial side of the movement incorporates multiple layers. The two transparent chronograph counters, outlined with a black outer ring, offer the utmost view of the two-tone movement.
The movement’s dark hues are also illuminated by more assertive 18-carat white gold hands, a white transferred minute track on the black inner bezel, as well as applied rhodium-toned AP initials realised in galvanic growth, appearing without the long-form signature. Indicating the chronograph functions, the three red hands add a dramatic feel. It boasts the spectacular flying tourbillon complication at 6 o’ clock.
The watch incorporates the new interchangeable strap system complementing the latest Royal Oak Offshore models. Directly integrated into the case’s studs and buckle, this arrangement allow clients to change the straps and buckles of their new timepiece themselves with a quick click and release. The double-push system also grants optimum security when the watch is worn on the wrist.
The black interchangeable rubber strap adorning this high complication is endowed with a new aesthetics with redesigned grooves forming in the continuity of the studs. The watch also comes with an additional black hand-stitched “large square-scale alligator strap. The AP folding clasp in sandblasted titanium also offers a new ergonomic design.
The Royal Oak Offshore collection also presents an assortment of two elegant calfskin straps in beige or brown fitted with the interchangeable system. More rubber and alligator strap options will be released later this year.
Technical details
Model: Royal Oak Offshore Self-winding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph / 43 mm
Reference: 26622TI.GG.D002CA.01
Case
Sandblasted titanium case and bezel
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback
Black ceramic push-pieces and screw-locked crown
Sandblasted titanium push-piece guards and studs
Water-resistant to 100 m
Movement
Self-winding Manufacture Calibre 2967
Total diameter: 33.6 mm (15lignes)
Total thickness: 8.31 mm
Number of jewels: 40
Number of parts: 526
Minimum guaranteed power reserve: 65 h
Frequency of balance wheel:3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
Dial
Black inner bezel
Black chronograph counter rings
18-carat white gold hands
Strap
Interchangeable black rubber strap with sandblasted titanium folding clasp
Additional interchangeable black hand-stitched “large square-scale” alligator strap
Introduced in 2020, the Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two tourbillon by BOVET 1822 is an incredible expression of artisanal watchmaking, decorative arts, mechanical ingenuity, and innovation.
This year, the House of BOVET is presenting its contemporary interpretation with titanium cases in brilliant black Diamond Like Carbon (DLC) and Super-LumiNova dials.
Placed side-by-side with the original, the newest Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two is a completely new timepiece, modern and sporty, while still maintaining its high watchmaking excellence. This is a theme moving forward for the House of BOVET – using interesting materials, colors, treatments, and displays that modernize these intricate timepieces, while still emphasizing the artisanal nature of the Maison’s in-house production.
Speaking of in-house production, BOVET 1822’s processes greatly benefited from the incredible three-year collaboration with Rolls-Royce that resulted in the stunning pair of bespoke timepieces and the mounting system in the dashboard of the Boat Tail.
Like participation in Formula 1 provides a trickle-down of technology into an automaker’s passenger cars, the intense research, development, and testing (including crash testing) of the Boat Tail timepieces resulted in engineering and production gains that have impacted every aspect of BOVET’s manufacture. Every single collection has benefitted from this exchange of engineering and technology, including the brand Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two.
The Super-LumiNova coated dials, not just indices or markings but the entire dial surface, are available in Yellow, Blue, Salmon, Turquoise, Green, and Violet. Once charged, these dials really pop, showcasing the luminosity in a unique way.
Over the past few years, the House of BOVET has been integrating Super-LumiNova into its timepieces in unique ways – in the lunar surface of the moon phase, on the sunshine dials of various collections – but this is the first time that Super-LumiNova has been applied so strongly onto the dials, a true statement of modernity.
The Grade 5 titanium cases of these new Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two timepieces have been treated with brilliant black DLC that contrasts beautifully with the bright and vibrant dial colors.
The new Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two includes the patented flying tourbillon with ten days of power reserve, the patented accelerated rewinding system, the writing slope case and sapphire crystal aperture, the fine movement decoration, the big date display, and the two dials forming a horizontal number eight, which symbolizes luck, perfection, and infinity.
For exceptional legibility, the seconds’ display is carefully designed to be displayed by a Super-LumiNova-coated sub-dial. The arrow of the index hangs over the surface of the delicate circular dial showing the 60 seconds. The easy, precise readability offered by this display, even in the dark, is remarkable.
It is hard to imagine that a Super-LumiNova dial with such a diameter, hanging over the date disks, could allow for such a large date display. The space between the units’ disk and the hours’ disk is reduced to optimize readability, making it as large as possible for enhanced legibility.
The date correction can easily is performed simply by pressing down on the real sapphire cabochon crown. The rapid date corrector and iconic 12-o’clock positioning of the crown effectively avoids any accidental date correction.
The movement that drives this exceptional timepiece draws its energy from a single barrel that ensures more than ten days of power reserve, all while maintaining the balance wheel’s oscillations at 18,000 vph.
Finally, the power reserve of over ten days, provided by a single barrel, would require meticulous winding if not for the spherical differential winding system. The application of this ingenious mechanism and the multi-gear three-dimensional teeth of one of its pinions, have received two patents. Because of this differential winding system, the number of crown turns needed for full winding of the spring is halved without increasing friction and forces exerted on the gears.
The Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two limited edition (8 timepieces) is a modern interpretation of BOVET’s proprietary and patented flying tourbillon with a big date and lengthy power reserve. The Super-LumiNova-coated dials and black DLC titanium cases are a true 21st-century departure for BOVET.
Case
Type: Fleurier Diameter 44 mm
Material: Titanium DLC
Water resistance: 30 m
Movement
Caliber 17BM06-GD
Type: Hand-wound movement decorated with blackened Côtes de Genève
Diameter: 17’’’
Frequency: 18’000 v/h Power reserve 10 days, single barrel
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds on flying tourbillon, big date, power reserve indicator
Dials
Colored Super-LumiNova dials ; green, blue, yellow, purple, salmon Components 394 – including 356 components for the movement PATENTS Spherical winding Toothing with multiple gearing Double face tourbillon
This year, the House of Bovet 1822 is offering this spectacular timepiece with the iconic “writing slope” case in solid 18K red gold.
Featuring Bovet’s patented double-sided flying tourbillon, a second-time zone with a twenty-four city disc, a precision moon phase showing both hemispheres, and offering a full 5 days of power reserve, this timepiece has a completely different character in red gold compared to its original sapphire crystal case.
Subtler, perhaps more elegant, the Brainstorm Chapter Two in red gold manages to integrate high-watchmaking expertise, decorative arts, and innovation into this unprecedented gem of artisanal Haute Horlogerie.
The Brainstorm Chapter Two uses the emblematic writing slope case with an asymmetrical profile. The slope of its case and sapphire crystal allows the collector to view clearly and appreciate the display mechanisms that guarantee intuitive and increased readability. Concentric rollers, rotating domes, and three-dimensional hands are being used to express time in new ways.
The patent-protected design of this unique case opens up new horizons in terms of the architecture of the movements, by optimizing the volume which simultaneously increases the functionalities offered, the chronometry, the reliability, and the readability.
You will discover the complexity of BOVET’s watchmaking mechanics from a new angle where the decorative arts illuminate the third dimension in a vision previously unexplored.
The new caliber developed for the Brainstorm Chapter Two is entirely manufactured in the Bovet 1822 workshops. Perfect for a multi-time zone timepiece, BOVET control of the energy guarantees five days of power reserve with two barrels, with a frequency of 21,600 v/h for spectacular chronometry enhanced by the patented double-sided flying tourbillon.
A domed dial, available in a choice of colors (blue quartz, green quartz, blue aventurine, and bespoke options), displays the hours and minutes of local time in the upper part of the case. The seconds are read by an index fixed on the tourbillon itself, placed at 6 o’clock which makes a complete revolution, in 60 seconds. Finally, two rotating domes placed, respectively, at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock harmoniously complete the design.
The dome located at 3 o’clock displays a second time zone specifically developed for this timepiece and patented by the House. The names of the cities representing the 24 time zones are printed on the dome which makes a complete revolution in 24 hours.
A three-dimensional V-shaped hand allows the collector to select the displayed time zone. This clever and innovative combination, united with the dome, allows optimal readability, despite the reduced diameter of the entire display.
In addition to a second time zone display, this new display also offers the world time function, which allows the time in each of the 24 time zones to be read simultaneously, an intuitive indication that has never found a better justification than at this time of constant connectivity.
In perfect symmetry, the moon phase indicator is positioned at 9 o’clock and is also accomplished with a rotating dome. The lunar surface is engraved by hand before luminescent material is applied, also, by hand.
The two circular windows on top of the dome make it possible to read the age of the moon in the northern hemisphere or the southern hemisphere of the earth. The precision mechanism that drives this dome gives it an accuracy that requires a correction of one day every 127 years.
The domes of the second time zone and the moon phase rotate by the patented mechanism called the Radial Guidance System. Three rollers, in rubies adjustable by a micrometric screw, are arranged on the circumference of each dome. They ensure centering and the rotation minimizes friction and increases the chronometry and the power reserve of the timepiece.
The five days of the phenomenal autonomy of this combination of high complications are displayed by a linear indicator, visible through a window positioned subtly in the middle of the case between the two strap lugs at 12 o’clock.
Whether it is design or technical achievement, the resolutely innovative and modern character of the Brainstorm Chapter Two aligns itself perfectly with the two sides of BOVET: innovation and artisanal watchmaking, respecting the traditions which have made the House of Bovet a success since 1822.
The decorative arts, the hand finishing, and the hand-engraving are a standard of expression directed by the three-dimensional aspect of the movement and its case. Whether flat, inclined, convex, or vertical, all the surfaces that allow this are engraved by hand with the emblematic “broken glass” motif.
Polished pillars, translucent gems, and delicately satin steels contrast with dazzling elegance. At the back of the timepiece, the bridges are open-worked and engraved with a delicacy that respects the centuries-old tradition of the noblest expression of fine art watchmaking by BOVET 1822.
A total of only 60 movements will be produced for the Brainstorm Chapter Two.
The Récital 26 Brainstorm® Chapter Two is limited to five pieces in each declination, and the use of it for unique pieces is also possible.
Technical details
Model: Récital 26 Brainstorm® Chapter Two
Reference numbers
R26C2-002: 18K red gold case, blue quartz dial
R26C2-008: 18K red gold case, green quartz dial
R26C2-011: 18K red gold case, blue Aventurine glass dial
Edition
Limited Edition to 60 movements / including 30 sapphire cases, only and 5 timepieces in 18K red gold case per dial color
Case
Type: Dimier “writing slope” case
Diameter: 46 mm
Material: 18K red gold
Water resistance: 30m
Movement
Caliber 17DM06-DT
Type: Hand-wound movement
Diameter: 39 mm (17 1/4’’’)
Frequency: 21,600V/h
Power reserve: 5 days
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon, three-dimensional moon phase indicator World time with indexable second timezone with hemispherical city indicator
Dial
Convex in blue, in green quartz or aventurine glass dial
Bracelet
Double face full skin alligator with platinum thread stitching
Buckle: 18K red gold folding buckle
Guarantee
5 years
Patents
Double face flying tourbillon
Radial guidance mechanism system
Universal time display
The most prominent model in the new Corum Admirals edition released in 2021 is the Admiral 45 Automatic Openworked Flying Tourbillon Carbon & Gold watch. Crafted from a high-tech material, this bold and energetic timepiece is available in a limited edition of just 48 pieces.
Its 45mm diameter case is crafted using fluctuating layers of ultra-light carbon mixed with 18-karat gold glitter, making each and every timepiece unique. This impressive wristwatch is equipped with an open-worked movement with flying tourbillon escapement.
The automatic flying tourbillon movement, CO 298, was developed in house by the brand. It beats at 3Hz to offer incredible precision, and the tourbillon escapement compensates for errors in timekeeping due to the effects of gravity on the watch when it is in a horizontal position.
Equipping the piece with a flying tourbillon is also a nod to the sailing world, where safe navigation of the seas requires ultimate precision. The open-worked movement is visible on both the dial side and case back side to showcase the meticulously finished components, the magnificent bridges and the mesmerizing constantly rotating flying tourbillon escapement.
Water resistant to 100 meters, the Open-worked Flying Tourbillon Carbon & Gold watch comes with an inventive strap made of rubber and synthetic textiles with genuine gold stitching.
Case
Dimension: 45 mm
Thickness: 14.30 mm
Shape: Dodecagonal
Case material: Carbon with gold inclusions
Bezel material: Carbon with gold inclusions
Crown material: 5N 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Open back cover in titanium grade 5 with black PVD treatment with glare proof sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 100 meters / 10 ATM
Dial
Black dial made of brass
5N gold-toned brass flange
Hands
Dauphine hour and minute hands
5N gold-toned
Skeleton
Black Super Luminova
Movement
Movement number CO 298
Winding system: Automatic
Power reserve: 72 hours
Frequency: 3 Hz, 21’600 vph
Dimension: 12 1/2’’’
Rubies: 37
This year marks the 230th anniversary of Girard-Perregaux. As part of its celebrations, the prestigious Swiss watch Manufacture is revisiting its iconic models and releasing a number of new creations. These timepieces often boast a touch of modernity.
The Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges is endowed with three Neo Bridges formed of pink gold, the first time all three Neo bridges have been made from this noble metal.
After the Free Bridge watch launched in 2020, the new Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges will be the final subfamily to join the company’s Bridges collection.
The three bridges not only support the gear-train, barrel and tourbillon, they also act as the main-plate. The result is that the bridges appear to float in mid-air. This unusual construction required the Maison to affix the indexes to the flange which in turn is attached to the case.
The upper and lower surfaces of the pink gold bridges are dressed in black PVD coating. They are the very antithesis of conspicuous consumption. Only the slim, vertical flanks of each bridge are exposed.
Each bridge is painstakingly chamfered by hand using a small piece of boxwood, a technique employed for hundreds of years. While the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges appears contemporary, it still upholds many of the traditional techniques synonymous with Haute Horlogerie.
A notable characteristic of this timepiece is that it plays with three dimensional forms, positioning various dial elements at different heights, a characteristic shared in common with some of the world’s finest architectural structures. Despite its complexity, the dial remains clean, uncluttered and simple to read, with the barrel, gear train and tourbillon arranged along a north-south axis.
The barrel is positioned in the upper portion of the dial and sits above a white gold micro-rotor, harnessing energy from the motion of the wearer’s wrist. The vertical sides of the rotor are engraved with the watch’s model name.
The tourbillon is positioned to the base of the dial. Made of Grade 5 titanium, the cage is lyre-shaped, a historical design dating back to the 19th century.
A blued hand on the cage rotates 360° every minute and serves as a small seconds display. The tourbillon cage is comprised of 79 components and weighs a mere 0.25 grams. This featherweight mechanism consumes less energy. The movement has an impressive power reserve of 60 hours (minimum).
The watch does not feature a conventional bezel. Instead, the sapphire crystal, positioned atop the dial, has gently sloping sides that curve downwards to the outer edge of the case middle.
To manufacture and polish this eye-catching crystal, it requires more material, time and great expertise. By equipping the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges with upper and lower crystal box sapphire crystals, the Manufacture has imbued the model with a harmonious degree of symmetry.
The Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges is available worldwide in all authorised Girard-Perregaux retailers
Technical details
Model: Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges
Reference: 99296-52-001-BA64
Case
Material: 18K rose gold
Diameter: 44.00 mm
Height: 15.52mm
Glass: sapphire anti-reflective crystal ‘box’
Case-back: sapphire crystal ‘box’
Water resistance: 30metres (3ATM)
Dial
Three bridges in gold on the front side covered with black PVD
Three bridges in titanium on the back side covered with black PVD
Hands: Skeletonised, 18K pink gold, ‘Dauphine’ type with luminescent material
Movement
Reference: GP09400-1273
Self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter: 42.00mm (183/4’’)
Height: 9.45mm
Invisible mainplate
Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h –(3Hz)
Number of components: 260
Number of jewels: 27
Power reserve: min. 60hours
Functions
Tourbillon, hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon cage
Tourbillon
Tourbillon cage composed of 79 components weighing only 0.250 grams
Strap
Material: Black alligator with rubber effect
Buckle: 18K pink gold triple folding buckle
The timepiece will be delivered with an additional black alligator strap with gold effect.
Uniting the watchmaking expertise of Girard Perregaux with Aston Martin’s unique knowledge of luxury and performance, this exceptional creation is the first wristwatch born from the recently announced partnership between the two iconic manufactures.
Known for their enduring passion for refined craftsmanship, both brands have been working together, sharing their understanding of design, materials and technology. This latest model is an ultramodern interpretation of the iconic Three Bridges pocket watch from the 19th century.
The 44 millimetre case of the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Aston Martin Edition watch is made of Grade 5 titanium. The case is topped with a sapphire crystal ‘box’ glass with AR coating.
The caseback of the watch is also fitted with a sapphire crystal glass with the same shape. Both glasses coax light to illuminate the case interior, thereby providing excellent readability.
Sitting between both panes of sapphire crystal, the three bridges movement appears to levitate within the case.
Three bridges, an iconic signature of Girard-Perregaux, span the dial and are formed of titanium with black PVD treatment and polished angles. The design endows the timepiece with an airy appearance, offering spectacular views of movement components.
This is achieved by paring back the movement, causing the mainplate to seemingly disappear within the case, thereby creating the illusion of the movement flying within the case. It was this particular characteristic that led to the term ‘Flying Bridges’.
The cage of the tourbillon, positioned in the lower portion of the dial, is ‘lyre-shaped’, a characteristic found on all the company’s tourbillons dating back to the 19th century. A blued hand affixed to the cage imparts the running seconds.
The tourbillon cage, measuring a mere 10mm in diameter, is composed of 79 components which collectively weigh only 0.25 grams.
The barrel, positioned at 12 o’clock, is open-worked, affording partial views of the mainspring. A white gold micro-rotor, positioned beneath the barrel, energises the mainspring and, unlike most automatic watches, it grants unobstructed views of the movement.
The car company’s name is engraved on the vertical flank of the micro-rotor and is filled with white luminescent treatment which appears blue in restricted light. Likewise, the indexes and hands are also treated with white luminescent treatment and, once again, emit a blue glow in dim light.
The watch is fitted on an alligator strap with rubber effect. With this timepiece, the brand is offering an additional strap. Its design inspired by the Aston Martin racing cars of the past.
This world premiere strap is presented in black calf leather and featuring Girard-Perregaux Rubber Alloy, an innovative rubber insert injected with white gold.
The Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges -Aston Martin Edition, a limited edition of 18 pieces, is available worldwide in all authorised Girard-Perregaux retailers.
Technical details
Model: Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges–Aston Martin Edition
Reference: 99296-21-001-BA6A
Case
Material: Grade 5 titanium with black DLC treatment
Diameter: 44.00mm
Height: 15.52mm
Glass: Sapphire anti-reflective crystal ‘box’
Case-back: Sapphire crystal ‘box’
Water resistance: 30 metres (3ATM)
Dial
No dial
Bridges in black PVD
Hands: Dauphine-type skeletonised, solid gold with ‘black-Or” treatment and luminescent material
Movement
Reference: GP09400-1683
Self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter: 42.00 mm (18 3/4 ’’’)
Height: 9.45 mm
Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h–(3Hz)
Number of components: 260
Number of jewels: 27
Power reserve: min. 60 hours
Tourbillon cage composed of 79 components
Weighing only 0.250 grams
Functions
Tourbillon, hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon
Strap
Material: alligator strap with rubber effect
Buckle: Triple folding buckle, Grade 5 titanium with black DLC treatment
Additional black calf leather strap with Rubber Alloy (injected white gold on rubber) insert
After winning the Ladies’ Complication category at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2020, Swiss luxury watch brand Charles Girardier now expands its 1809 collection by introducing a new gent’s wristwatch.
Charles Girardier 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 mm, the first men’s version of the Mysterious Signature (Signature Mystérieuse) flying tourbillon, highlights most sophisticated craftsmanship techniques.
This masculine yet elegant watch with a refined style combines a grand feu enamel dial with a complex mechanical movement, itself combined with a miniature automaton: The initials C and G at 12 o’clock, animated by the Mysterious Signature, visually counterbalance the tourbillon at 6, always in motion and according to their own rhythm.
Blending history, watchmaking and exceptional artisanship, the 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 watch has a 41 mm diameter white gold case. It has a total thickness of 12.2 mm. The polished gadroons and satin-finished flanks create a contrast of textures that emphasizes its profile.
Following through on the curves of the case middle, the lugs are also satin-finished. The choice of 18K white gold for the whole, including the faceted dauphine hands, polished tourbillon cage and applied indices magically complements the cobalt blue of the grand feu enamel dial.
The dial of the 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 mm is made of cobalt blue grand feu enamel. The making of the dial begins with a base plate of solid gold, a material suitable for the finest enamels. It is shaped to accommodate the tourbillon at 6 o’clock and the Signature Mystérieuse at 12.
The balance of the surface is engraved with an exclusive chevron pattern. Then the painstaking process of applying the enamel begins. After each layer of enamel is applied, the enameller slides the dial into a kiln heated to no less than 800 degrees Celsius, so the enamel paste may vitrify. The operation is repeated a total of eight times. The final glaze is translucent. This layer of enamel is called the fondant. Its density and smooth texture create a dramatic impression of brilliance and depth.
The Charles Girardier 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 mm watch is equipped with the CG Calibre 1809. On the dial side, this movement boasts a flying tourbillon.
The sapphire crystal back of the 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 mm reveals its sophisticated haute horlogerie movement. Its substantial bridge, made of one piece, takes up almost two-thirds of the visible area. This is a legacy of the 18th century Charles Girardier movement design, adopted by the brand today with equally unusual finishes.
Instead of the traditional Côtes de Genève or satin finish, today’s Charles Girardier opts for a grenage, an entirely manual frosting technique that creates a matte surface by applying a silver powder with a brush. The other visible bridges, and in particular the one that holds the tourbillon from below, also show this graining.
The caseback side offers an unobstructed view of the movement’s rear side. That is because the CG Calibre 1809’s self-winding mechanism does without a central rotor. Indeed, the latter would hide mechanism. Winding is carried out by a ring-shaped mass, which circles the movement’s periphery and the height of which is the movement’s thickness.
The mechanism of the Signature Mystérieuse is based on a small oscillating weight, used not for winding but to power the automaton driving the initials C and G. This rotor lives in a setting of matte textures, polished bevels and blued screws.
One rotating component carries one initial, ‘half’ of the signature, while the other, the size of the minute hand and rotating independently, carries the second element. As the arm is set in motion, the two parts begin to rotate, occasionally aligning to reveal the secret of the mysterious signature. This system is the subject of a patent application.
This extra-ordinary movement was developed in partnership with Timeless Manufacture SA, a specialist of watchmaking components based in the Canton of Geneva. The CG Caliber 1809 is entirely manufactured in Switzerland.
Movement
Calibre CG 1809/06, mechanical with automatic winding by bidirectional peripheral mass, single ball bearing, one minute flying tourbillon regulator
Jewels: 32 rubies
Diameter: 30.6 mm, 13 1/2”
Thickness: 8.43 mm
Power reserve: 46 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz / 28,800 vph
Components: 308
Decoration: Garneted bridges, horizontal satin-finished and polished tourbillon bridge, polished tourbillon cage set with diamonds, sunray-brushed peripheral mass, beveled plate and bridges, blued screws
Dial
Grand feu enamel, white gold base with engraved chevron motif, cobalt blue enamel
‘Mysterious Signature’ in white gold with rose motif
Applied hour markers in 18K white gold
18ct white gold dauphine hands
Case
Material: White gold 18 K
Bezel: White gold, polished
Crown: White gold, etched and engraved
Diameter: 41 mm
Thickness: 12.2 mm
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective coating
Case back: Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 30 meters/100 feet
Strap
Material: Blue ribbon woven on traditional Jacquard loom
Fasteners: Interchangeable, Presto system
Buckle: Folding clasp, 18 K white gold
The Marine Torpilleur model, launched in 2017, is an archetype of Ulysse Nardin’s roots and history, joining the long line of illustrious Marine chronometers of the 19th century. Celebrating its 175th anniversary this year, the Swiss watch manufacture unveiled seven new models of the Marine Torpilleur during the Geneva Watch Days 2021.
These precision instruments all bear the codes of historical Marine Chronometers, such as the fluted bezel, roman numerals and the double counter. Each model, equipped with a silicium escapement, has a distinctive look and its own design, bearing the legacy and codes of the brand’s history.
Along with the Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel – the icon of the collection – these include the Panda, the Moonphase (white and blue versions), the Annual Chronograph (white and blue versions), and the Tourbillon Grand Feu Enamel black in rose gold.
The above mentioned watches are produced in limited editions and bear the signature “Chronometry since 1846” at 6o’clock on the small seconds counter and a lightened minutes circle compared to the core collection.
Set with an Alligator leather strap, they are all compatible with the R-strap, made from recycled fishing fishing nets.
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel
This new Marine Torpilleur watch has a magnificent Ulysse Nardin blue in-house enamelled dial made using the Grand Feu technique.
Thanks to the company’s collaboration with Donzé Cadrans, an independent enamelling workshop based in Le Locle, Switzerland, acquired by the manufacture in 2011, the manufacture has been able to constantly innovate and improve on this artisanal technique, which requires that over 90% of the process to be done by hand.
Ulysse Nardin masters this metier d’art, including the technique of Grand Feu enamel and cloisonné, in which a design is created by filling in a wire outline with colored enamels.
The Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel stainless steel watch with a blue Grand Feu enamel dial is limited to 175 pieces.
Technical details
References
1183-310LE-3AE-175/1A (with brown strap)
1183-310LE-3AE-175/1B (with blue strap)
Movement
Caliber UN-118 Manufacture, COSC automatic movement
Balance spring in Silicium
Escapement wheel& anchor in Diamonsil
260 components
50 jewels
Frequency: 4 Hz / oscillations 28’800 V/H
Power reserve: 60 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
Case
Stainless steel polished & satin-finish case / fluted bezel
Open sapphire case back
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 11.73 mm
Water resistance: 50 m
Dial
New blue Grand Feu enamel dial by Donzé Cadrans
Double counters with power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock and small seconds with date at 6 o’clock “Chronometry since 1846” signature on the small second counter
Rhodium-finish hands
Strap
Brown or blue alligator leather strap Compatible with R-STRAP / rubber strap / metal bracelet
Stainless steel deployant buckle
Limited edition
175 pieces
Price
10’900 CHF / 10’000 € / 11’500 $
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Panda
The Marine Torpilleur Panda model, with two small dark blue dials within the dial (one that contains the power reserve indicator and one that houses the second hand and date) is a unique design at Ulysse Nardin.
It is for the first time that the manufacture has used this design. The varnished Panda dial with rhodium-finished hands bears the insignia “Chronometry since 1846” on the bottom ring that houses the seconds hand. It uses Silicium and DIAMonSIL technology and runs thanks to the UN-118 movement.
Limited to 300 pieces only, the 42mm diameter Marine Torpilleur Panda comes with a choice of a brown or blue leather alligator strap, metal bracelet, a rubber strap or an R-Strap.
Technical details
Reference: 1183-310LE-0A-175/1A (Brown strap)
Movement
CaliberUN-118 Manufacture, COSC automatic movement
Balance spring in Silicium
Escapement wheel& anchor in Diamonsil
260 components
50 jewels
Frequency: 4 Hz / oscillations 28’800 V/H
Power reserve: 60 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
Case
Stainless steel polished & satin-finish case / fluted bezel
Open sapphire case back
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 11.13 mm
Water resistance: 50 m
Dial
Varnished Panda dial
Double counters with power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock and small seconds with date at 6 o’clock
“Chronometry since 1846” signature on the small second counter
Rhodium-finish hands
Strap
Brown or blue alligator leather strap
Compatible with R-STRAP / rubber strap / metal bracelet
Stainless steel deployant buckle
First produced from 1936 to 1980, the Ulysse Nardin Chronograph Marine Torpilleur pocket watches of that time featured the ability to read time down to 1/10th of a second.
Used during the 1936 Berlin Olympics, this precision transformed timekeeping. These chronographs, employed by automobile clubs, geodesic commissions, and scientists on expeditions, were delivered with official certification that guaranteed their extreme precision.
The 2021 version includes a varnished white or a mat blue dial, and the UN-153 Manufacture movement, which is an evolution of the earlier UN-150 movement.
The white dial is adorned with silvered, small counters and the annual calendar, which sits at 9o’clock just above the signature, verifying that Ulysse Nardin has been the leader in “Chronometry since 1846”.
The sapphire crystal back of the 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 mm reveals its sophisticated haute horlogerie movement. Its substantial bridge, made of one piece, takes up almost two-thirds of the visible area. This is a legacy of the 18th century Charles Girardier movement design, adopted by the brand today with equally unusual finishes.
