Bvlgari Octo FinissimoTourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic Platinum, Ref. 103510

In 2020, Bulgari achieved a sixth consecutive world record in ultra-thin watch segment with the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic.

Its self-winding skeleton movement with a monopusher chronograph and tourbillon functions is housed within a thickness of only 3.5 mm. This extremely thin high complication watch is now available in a new platinum interpretation.

Bvlgari Octo FinissimoTourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic Platinum, Ref. 103510

Its 43 mm case, topped by a white gold and ceramic crown, frames an elegant open-worked dial with two grey chronograph counters, entirely revealing the BVL 388 skeletonised in-house calibre and its tourbillon at 6 o’clock.

Bvlgari Octo FinissimoTourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic Platinum, Ref. 103510

The watch face is swept over by blue hands matching the alligator leather strap secured by a platinum buckle.

Technical details

Model: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic Platinum, Ref. 103510

Movement
Mechanical ultra-thin Manufacture automatic-winding skeletonized movement with tourbillon and single push-piece chronograph – Calibre BVL 388 (3.50 mm thick). 52-hour power reserve, 21’600 VPH (3 Hz) frequency.

Case and dial
43 mm platinum case with transparent caseback, 7.40 mm thick, white gold crown with black ceramic insert and white gold push-buttons; open-worked dial with grey chronograph counters and blue hands. Water resistant to 3 ATM.

Bracelet
Blue alligator bracelet with platinum buckle.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph

Vacheron Constantin has created a unique Les Cabinotiers timepiece endowed with a minute repeater equipped with a centripetal flying strike regulator and a split-seconds monopusher chronograph.

Equipped with the new manual-winding in-house Calibre 2757, this unique Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph is in keeping with the grand tradition of Vacheron Constantin’s complicated watches.

The construction of this calibre, which consists of integrating an additional split-seconds chronograph mechanism into a basic minute repeater movement, represents a technical feat. The combination of these functions with a tourbillon has rarely been seen in the world of pocket watches, is almost non-existent in the world of wristwatches, and represents a first for Vacheron Constantin in a wristwatch.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph

This timepiece is also distinguished by a concern for the purity of the dial and the legibility of its chronograph functions. The tourbillon is visible only through the case back, while the off-centre display of the time and chronograph indications highlights the two central chronograph hands. The presence of a minute repeater is revealed by the slide-piece positioned on the left-hand side of the watch.

As early as 1819, Vacheron Constantin produced a pocket watch with independent deadbeat seconds and quarter repeater, at the time one of the first of its kind, which is now kept in the private collection of the Maison.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph

The deadbeat seconds mechanism, which allows the central second hand to advance in one-second jumps, played an important role in the measurement of short times. By making this mechanism independent by means of an additional gear train, watchmakers developed what is considered the ancestor of the chronograph towards the end of the 18th century. With such a device, it is now possible to stop the seconds hand without affecting the time indications.

The split-seconds chronograph was first introduced with a single-hand system in 1831, followed by the two-hand configuration in 1838. Vacheron Constantin quickly integrated these developments into the pocket chronographs of the time, as confirmed by an 1889 split-seconds timepiece dispatched to Buenos Aires for a horse racing enthusiast.

Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers have developed the 698-component manual-winding Calibre 2757. Such a large number of parts denote a rare degree of horological complexity. Even in the world of grand complications, calibres are often of simpler design and made with far fewer components.

Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2757 Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph

Given this intensely technical nature, Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers have nonetheless risen to the challenge of elegance by successfully arranging the complications of this timepiece within a remarkably slender movement measuring barely 10.4 mm thick and 33.3 mm in diameter.

Calibre 2757, operating at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz) and endowed with an approximately 60-hour power reserve, enables short time measurement with 1/5th of a second precision appearing on the graduated minute-track. The unusual configuration of the dark grey dial has been designed to ensure optimum visibility of the split-seconds chronograph.

The hours and minutes are displayed on an offset subdial, leaving room for the 30-minute chronograph counter prominently placed at 2 o’clock. The layout is complemented by small seconds at 6 o’clock, indicating that the watch is in operation, thereby leaving plenty of space for the two central chronograph hands.

The very construction of the movement, particularly in terms of its chronographic functions, is based on the imperative of performance. In the watchmaking world, where many great inventions belong to the past, innovation often consists in optimising the operation of a calibre.

Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2757 Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph

This approach begins with the development of the movement and continues with the use of new materials. This same approach is reflected in Calibre 2757, whose additional split-seconds chronograph plate has been specially designed to ensure efficiency thanks to the in-depth arrangement of its components.

This optimisation of volumes, despite the thinness of the calibre, is also accompanied by new materials. Some of the wheels in the going train have been made of titanium or electroformed in nickel- phosphorus with a toothing profile specific to Vacheron Constantin, the goal being to ensure better gear penetration so as to avoid any jerking of the seconds hand. Silicon, an ultra-light material that requires no lubrication, is also used for one of the split-seconds levers and its insulator.

These savings in component weight and friction thus reduce the loss of energy amplitude from the barrel, thereby maintaining a comfortable power reserve of up to 50 hours with the chronograph activated.

For short-time measurements, a function demanding extreme regularity in terms of precision, Vacheron Constantin watchmakers have opted for a construction with two column wheels: the first devoted to the chronograph and the other to the split-seconds mechanism. This chronograph is thus controlled by a single pusher at 2 o’clock for the basic functions (start/stop/reset) and by the one at 4 o’clock for the split-seconds (stop/reset).

Pressing the latter stops the seconds hand on an intermediate time while the first hand continues running. Pressing it again enables the split-seconds hand to join the first seconds hand in counting off time. Two scales further enhance the technical nature of this timepiece.

The tachymeter scale, screen-printed in white on a 1,000-metre base, enables the average speed in km/h to be calculated over the first minute of timekeeping; the telemeter scale in red is used to calculate distances of up to 20 km according to the speed of sound (340 metres/second).

The chronograph functions are complemented by a minute repeater, activated by the lever on the left-hand side of the case. An essential complication for musical watches, the minute repeater has been part of Vacheron Constantin’s watchmaking vocabulary for more than two centuries, sounding the hours, quarters and minutes on demand.

The first known mention of a Vacheron Constantin chiming watch in the production records dates back to 1806, with a gold quarter-repeater pocket watch. Since that date, chiming and repeater watches have been part of the Maison’s heritage that has continued to grow over the decades.

Calibre 2757 is the direct heir to this tradition, benefiting from the technical developments perfected within the Manufacture. These include an ingenious centripetal flying strike regulator.

In a minute repeater watch, this mechanism regulates the duration of the musical sequence so that the notes can be heard distinctly and harmoniously. This system is distinguished by its two weights whose very special shape has been optimised to act as a brake by means of centripetal force acting on the governor’s rotating shaft, thereby evening out the energy released by the barrel and regulated by the tourbillon. This original device is also perfectly silent. Visible exclusively through the caseback, the tourbillon is distinguished by a carriage whose shape is inspired by the Maison’s Maltese cross emblem. Held by a delicately hand-chamfered bridge, this regulator carriage performs one complete rotation per minute.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph

Presented in a 45 mm-diameter 750/1000 5N pink gold case with an exhibition back and on an alligator leather strap with gold folding clasp, this watch represents a technical feat as well as epitomising extraordinary mastery in the field of watchmaking finishing.

A signature feature of Vacheron Constantin watches is that each component is finely decorated with hand-made finishes before being assembled, even when destined to remain hidden. These surfaces that is alternately bevelled, polished, satin-finished, frosted, circular-grained or engraved and beadblasted create a play of light that brings out all the magic of Vacheron Constantin’s calibres and contributes to the brand’s intrinsic anatomy of beauty.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph

The assembly, setting into operation and casing-up of this Les Cabinotiers Minute repeater split-seconds monopusher chronograph movement thus represents only one third of the time devoted to the watch, as opposed to two thirds devoted to the calibre finishing.

The contrast between the bridges and maintaining plate with Vacheron Constantin’s signature black coating and the “metallic” moving parts already acts as a revelation of this kinetic art, which takes shape thanks to the meticulous attention lavished on details.

On the dial side, the skeletonised bridges, with their hand-chamfered and straight-grained flanks feature a circular satin finish. The wheels, with their chamfered arms, are burnished and polished, a complex operation that requires special tools for the titanium wheels.

On the caseback side of the movement, the watchmaker in charge of the timepiece – who carries out all the assembly and finishing operations right the way through to timing and casing-up in the manner of 18th century cabinotiers – has created an original decoration, in keeping with this remarkable timepiece.

The blackened bridges featured a hollowed-out surface that has been sandblasted to a very fine grain by hand, topped by a mirror-polished sink. This magnificent execution, which plays on the reflections of light between the matt and the shiny, brings out the “musical” components of the movement. The strike governor is notably engraved with the initials J.M.C. in tribute to Jean-Marc Vacheron and features a bar whose delicate rounding off involves 12 hours of meticulous hand craftsmanship. The Tourbillon Bridge is engraved with Vacheron Constantin’s Maltese cross emblem.

The single-piece watch Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph features a concern for impeccable finishing and meticulous decoration of all watch components, even those that remain invisible, vividly illustrating Vacheron Constantin’s theme for 2022:”The Anatomy of Beauty®”.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph
Reference: 9750C/000R-002C

Movement
Calibre 2757
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
33.30 mm diameter, 10.40 mm thick
Approximately 60 hours of power reserve
2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
698 components
59 jewels
Poinçon de Genève

Functions
Off-centred/Offset hours and minutes
Chronograph
Split-seconds chronograph
Small seconds
30-minute counter
Minute repeater
Tourbillon

Case
18K 5N pink gold
45 mm diameter, 16.4 mm thick

Dial
Dark grey dial
Hours, minutes and seconds hands: 18K 5N pink gold, polished
Chronograph and split-seconds chronograph hands: gold-toned aluminium, matt

Strap
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Buckle 18K 5N pink gold folding clasp, Half Maltese cross-shaped

Box
Les Cabinotiers box

Edition
Single-piece edition “Les Cabinotiers”, “Pièce unique”, “AC” hallmark engraved on caseback

Bell & Ross R.S.19 Chronographs Limited Editions

Celebrating the fourth year of their partnership with the Renault F1®Team, French-Swiss watch maker Bell & Ross has created four new driver’s chronographs of the R.S.19 collection.

The men behind Bell & Ross and Renault F1® Team are poised to take the competition to another level this year thanks to a strong new pairing in the drivers’ seats: Nico Hülkenberg (GER) and new signing Daniel Ricciardo (AUS).

At the respective headquarters of Bell & Ross and Renault F1® Team, two passionate teams are out to conquer time with their precision-engineered machines. The personal and professional stories behind these men of action embody identical values: performance, dedication, technical expertise and courage.

Anyone who follows the sport of F1® knows that the winning formula is always teamwork. It takes hundreds of people to get their two men over the finish line, after all, –and the same goes for exceptional watchmaking. Since 1977, as with the centuries old Swiss tradition, the engineers and designers at Renault F1® Team have sought velocity through mechanical accuracy and collaborative innovation; they share the conviction that every millisecond counts.

Teamwork isn’t just limited to the individual teams –as Bell & Ross’ R.S.19 watches prove, their respective passion really can crossfertilize, creating more than the sum of their parts. To celebrate the perseverance, talent and training needed to achieve the highest performance, a team-inspired campaign will accompany the new collection launch. Daniel, Nico and other extraordinary people will walk the public through the life, rituals and preparation of both Renault F1® Team and Bell & Ross teams.

With 2019’s Formula 1®season well underway, Renault F1®Team faces its most exciting opportunity in years. The talent behind the wheel and the technology being harnessed are unmatched. The same goes for Bell & Ross’ R.S.19 collection novelties that are more track-ready than ever.

The Bell & Ross R.S.19 collection races ahead with a pair of carbon-dialed chronographs, color-keyed in keeping with Daniel Ricciardo and Nico Hülkenberg’s steering wheels.

Bell and Ross BR V3-94 R.S.19 & BR 03-94 R.S.19 Chronographs

Shaped by Bell & Ross’ expertise in crafting ultra-functional tool watches for professionals, this year’s Renault F1®Team ‘R.S.19’ watch collection is built on two limited-edition chronographs, fit for the uncompromising environment of a modern F1® cockpit.

Bell and Ross BR V3-94 R.S.19 Chronograph

The BR V3-94 R.S.19 and BR 03-94 R.S.19 share the same ‘engine’ and styling language, yet are mounted on two differing, equally iconic ‘chassis’. The BR V3-94 R.S.19 sports the classic circular case of Bell & Ross’s Vintage collection –now tuned-up to 43 mm ‘XL’ proportions– and the BR 03-94 R.S.19 features the utilitarian 42mm across square of its Instrument watches.

Bell and Ross BR 03-94 R.S.19 Chronograph

The similarities start with the highly legible, luminescent dials: derived from the Renault F1® Team steering wheel color coding introduced in the R.S.17 collection. This time however, a dial made of F1®’s essential high-tech material: carbon fiber. It provides a sleek background to the signature Renault F1® Team yellow and black colors, plus the green, red and orange found on cockpit buttons.

Each model benefits from a bi-directional timing bezel for ‘on the-fly’ timing, knurled for a better grip while wearing gloves. When things come down to the wire, there’s the high-precision stopwatch functionality of their chronograph mechanics, which can record events to an accuracy of an eighth of a second, over the course of 30 minutes.

The BR V3-94 R.S.19 and BR 03-94 R.S.19 are each limited editions of 999 pieces.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 R.S.19 Skeleton Chronograph

The ergonomic design and ultra-functionality of Bell & Ross’ BR-X1 gets the R.S.19 treatment, making every second count. With every BR-X1 chronograph, Bell & Ross has pushed with the limits of extreme micro-engineering, stripping the movement, dial, case and pushbuttons down to their purest functionality: raw performance at its most uncompromising and streamlined, which is reminiscent of Formula 1®.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 R.S.19 Skeleton Chronograph

Designed as a high-octane race car for the wrist, the BR-X1 R.S.19 has been created for fully functional operation at the wheel: ergonomic ‘rocker’ push-buttons suitable for use with gloves, highly legible dial details colored in keeping with Daniel Ricciardo and Nico Hülkenberg’s cockpit controls and extreme lightweight thanks to the combination of grade 5 titanium, ceramic and rubber.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 R.S.19 Skeleton Chronograph

The square case of the BR-X1 is surrounded by a bumper in micro-blasted ceramic and rubber that acts as a peripheral protective shell. Rubber grip elements have also been integrated into the case to ensure better handling when activating the chronograph’s ‘rocker’ push-buttons, even while wearing gloves.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 R.S.19 Skeleton Chronograph

New to the BR-X1 this year is the addition of a ‘time marker’ outgrowth to the dial’s circumferential bezel ring. Following a hot lap, the team back in the pit lane can instantly mark wherever the chronograph’s yellow running seconds hand has been stopped, by rotating and aligning its yellow triangle. Following a second lap, the respective times can be instantly compared.

The BR-X1 R.S.19 is a limited edition of 250 pieces.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 TOURBILLON CHRONOGRAPH R.S.19

Meaning ‘whirlwind’ in French, the tourbillon is the ultimate tune-up in the high-octane world of Haute Horlogerie –and sure enough, Bell & Ross’ Renault F1®Team R.S.19 collection benefits from the addition of a particularly sporty example.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 TOURBILLON CHRONOGRAPH R.S.19

Whirring the ticking escapement and throbbing balance-wheel around by 360º per minute, the tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock evens-out the pull of gravity across the movement’s regulating parts, improving timekeeping and reducing friction at certain pinch points: an ingenious invention dating back over two centuries.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 TOURBILLON CHRONOGRAPH R.S.19

Like an F1® engine itself, the manufacturing and hand-assembling of a tourbillon cage, with a far smaller balance-wheel to fine-tune as it rotates inside this cramped space, is an extraordinary undertaking.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 TOURBILLON CHRONOGRAPH R.S.19

The vision is mesmeric, however –a thrilling showcase of fine mechanical watchmaking. In combination with the stripped-back and highly technical case design of the BR-X1, fitted with Bell & Ross’ new lap-by-lap time marker around the bezel and stopwatch chronograph functionality, the R.S.19 Tourbillon is a turbocharged triumph of precision engineering and passion.

The BR-X1 TOURBILLON CHRONOGRAPH R.S.19 is a limited edition of 20 pieces.

Technical details

Model: BR V3-94 R.S.19 Limited edition, REF. BRV394-RS19

Bell and Ross BR V3-94 R.S.19 Limited edition

Movement
Calibre BR-CAL.301 Automatic mechanical

Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o’clock
Date
Chronograph: 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, central chronograph seconds

Case
43 mm in diameter
Satin-polished steel
Bi-directional rotating steel bezel with black anodised aluminium ring with scale and countdown timer
Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating
Screw-down crown and push-buttons
Sapphire case back
Water-resistance: 100 metres

Dial
Carbon fibre
Applique Super-LumiNova®-filled numerals
Metal skeletonised Super-LumiNova®-filled hour and minute hands

Strap
Carbon-effect calfskin or satin-polished steel
Buckle: folding. Satin-polished steel

Edition
Limited edition of 999 pieces

Model: BR 03-94 R.S.19 Limited edition, REF. BR0394-RS19/SRB

Bell and Ross BR 03-94 R.S.19 Limited edition

Movement
Calibre BR-CAL.301. Automatic mechanical

Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o’clock
Date
Chronograph: 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock, central chronograph seconds
Tachymeter scale on the flange

Case
42 mm in diameter
Satin-finished polished steel
Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating
Bi-directional rotating bezel with anodised aluminium insert
Water-resistance: 100 metres

Dial
Carbon fibre
Metal applique Super-LumiNova®-filled numerals
Metal skeleton Super-LumiNova®-filled hour and minute hands

Strap
Perforated black rubber and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric
Buckle: pin. Satin-polished steel

Edition
Limited edition of 999 pieces

Model: BR-X1 R.S.19 Limited edition, REF. BRX1-RS19/SRB

Bell and Ross BR-X1 R.S.19 Limited edition

Movement
Calibre BR-CAL.313
Automatic mechanical
‘X’-shaped upper bridge
56 jewels, 28,800 vph
Skeleton chronograph

Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o’clock
Skeletonised date at 6 o’clock
Chronograph: 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock, central seconds
Tachymeter scale on the flange

Case
45 mm in diameter
Titanium and ceramic with rubber inserts
Rocker push-buttons
Case-back with opening in tinted sapphire crystal, centred on the balance
Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance: 100 metres

Dial
Skeleton dial
Metal applique Super-LumiNova®-filled numerals
Metal skeleton Super-LumiNova®-filled hour and minute hands

Strap
Perforated black rubber
Buckle: pin. Steel with black rubber over-moulding

Edition
Limited edition of 250 pieces

Model: BR-X1 Tourbillon R.S.19 Limited Edition, REF. BRX1-CHTB-RS19/SRB

Bell and Ross BR-X1 Tourbillon R.S.19 Limited Edition

Movement
Calibre BR-CAL.283
Hand-wound flying tourbillon
Mono-pusher column wheel chronograph
282 components, 35 jewels, 21,600 vph
4-day power reserve

Functions
Hours and minutes
Chronograph: 30-minute counter at 11 o’clock, 60-second counter at 1 o’clock
Power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock
Flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock

Case
45 mm in diameter
Satin-polished titanium and matt ceramic with rubber inserts
Rocker mono-pusher
Sapphire case back with anti-reflective coating
Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance: 100 metres

Dial
Skeleton
Metal applique Super-LumiNova®-filled indices
Metal skeleton Super-LumiNova®-filled hour and minute hands

Strap
Perforated black rubber
Buckle: pin. Steel with black rubber over-moulding

Edition
Limited edition of 20 pieces

Bell & Ross – BR-X1 White Hawk & BR-X1 Tourbillon White Hawk

Bell & Ross’ latest aeronautical watch line, the BR-X1 White Hawk offers two stunning pilot watches : BR-X1 White Hawk & BR-X1 Tourbillon White Hawk.  Produced in limited editions, these two models, both feature revolutionary construction and sophisticated watchmaking finishes, take inspiration from the colors of private jets.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 WHITE HAWK

On these models, the grade 5 titanium cases are covered with a white ceramic «belt». Titanium is micro-blasted and ceramic is matte to avoid reflections caused by light. The white and grey of the case depict the colors of the most beautiful private jets.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 Tourbillon White Hawk

The push buttons are made of high-tech ceramic with rubber inserts to optimize their grip and strength. A rubber button grip insert is also built into the case at 9 o’clock to enhance the activation of the chronograph’s functions and a red rim highlights them for optimal readability. This fundamental complication enables short time measurements and is an indispensable tool for air navigation.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 WHITE HAWK

The BR-X1 White Hawk is limited to 250 pieces where as the  BR-X1 Tourbillon White Hawk is available in an ultra-limited edition of 20 pieces only.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 WHITE HAWK

Technical details

Model: Bell and Ross BR-X1 WHITE HAWK, Reference: BRX1-WHC-TI

Bell and Ross BR-X1 WHITE HAWK

Movement
Calibre BR-CAL.313
Automatic mechanical
‘X’-shaped upper bridge
56 jewels, 28,800 vph
Skeleton chronograph

Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o’clock
Skeleton date at 6 o’clock
Chronograph: 30-min timer at 9 o’clock, central chronograph seconds

Case
45 mm in diameter
Microblasted titanium and matt white ceramic with rubber inserts
Rocker push-buttons
Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance: 100 metres.
Case-back with opening in tinted sapphire crystal, centred on the balance

Dial
Sapphire crystal
Metal applique Superluminova®-filled indices
Metal skeletonised Superluminova®-filled hour and minute hands

Strap
Bi-material: rubber and grey calfskin
Buckle: pin. Satin-polished steel and rubber insert

Edition
Limited edition of 250 pieces

Model: Bell and Ross BR-X1 Tourbillon White Hawk, Reference: BRX1-CHTB-WHC

Bell and Ross BR-X1 Tourbillon White Hawk

Movement
Calibre BR-CAL.283
Hand-wound flying tourbillon
Mono-pusher column wheel chronograph
282 components, 35 jewels, 21,600 vph
4-day power reserve

Functions
Hours and minutes
Chronograph: 30-min timer at 11 o’clock, chronograph 60-sec timer at 1 o’clock
Power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock
Flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock

Case
45 mm in diameter
Micro-blasted titanium and matt white ceramic with rubber inserts
Rocker mono-pusher
Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
Sapphire case-back with anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance: 100 metres.

Dial
Sapphire crystal
Metal applique Superluminova®-filled indices
Metal skeletonised Superluminova®-filled hour and minute hands

Strap
Bi-material: rubber and grey calfskin
Buckle: pin. Satin-polished steel and rubber insert

Edition
Limited edition of 20 pieces

Bell & Ross BR-RS17 Collection – BR 03-94 RS17, BR X1 RS17 Skeleton Chronograph & BR X1 RS17 Tourbillon Chronograph

Since its foundation in 1994, Bell & Ross has been creating high grade aviation watches for fighter pilots and aviators all over the world. In February 2016, the watch brand made its first foray into the racetracks by joining the highly exclusive world of Formula 1 and becoming the official watch partner of the Renault Sport Formula One Team.

The collaboration with the French F1 team led to a first collection of watches named BR X1 RS16, in reference to the car unveiled that year. In 2017, Bell & Ross is strengthening its partnership by releasing a series of three new high-performance watches inspired by the steering wheel of the new Renault RS 17 F1 car:-

  • BR 03-94 RS17
  • BR X1 RS17 Skeleton Chronograph
  • BR X1 RS17 Tourbillon Chronograph

The design and color codes of these high-tech timepieces allow the time to be read quickly and accurately. The principle evokes that of an F1 steering wheel, on which each piece of information is paired with a different color.

This enables the driver to recognize them instantly, without any risk of error. The materials used – Carbone Forgé®, titanium or ceramic – are identical to those used in Grand-Prix racing cars.

Designed for racing drivers, the new Bell & Ross BR-RS17 collection is made up of truly exceptional watches. Their design, inspired by Formula 1, brings together the latest technological advances and the most innovative materials used in the racing world. These quintessential sports timepieces also take the lead in terms of legibility and finishes.

Bell and Ross BR 03-94 RS17
BR 03-94 RS17

This series includes only chronograph models. The new Bell & Ross BR-RS17 collection features a wide range of color shades. These vivid hues are found on the steering wheel of the Renault F1 single-seater. For example, the flange on the two BR X1 chronographs features the same shimmering tones as the dial wheel at the center of the F1 RS17 steering wheel.

These complementary primary colors, rarely used in high-end watches, allow functions to be identified and prioritized. The time, chronograph, date, seconds and power reserve (where applicable) have each their own color. This ensures the display is exceptionally clear and easy to decipher, and read reliably at a glance.

Bell and Ross BR X1 RS17 Skeleton Chronograph
BR X1 RS17 Skeleton Chronograph

On the three watches, the elements relating to the chronograph complication are partially coated in “Renault” yellow. Ever since the French constructor entered F1 in 1977, its single-seaters have sported this shade.

Aviation and motor racing have many points in common: both rely on innovative materials, just as the latest Bell & Ross’ collection.

The case of the BR X1 is made of Carbone Forgé® and the dial of the BR03-94 is crafted of carbon fiber, both of the models being inspired on the steering wheel of the Renault F1 RS17. This lightweight and highly resilient composite material is used in aircraft fuselages and in bodies of racing cars. It is perfectly suited for the structural components subject to extreme mechanical stress.

Bell and Ross BR X1 RS17 Tourbillon Chronograph
BR X1 RS17 Tourbillon Chronograph

The engineers at Bell & Ross have reworked this material in order to meet the quality criteria of watchmaking. They redesigned its fibers, the resin that holds them in place, and the tooling needed to create its finish. The results are perfectly watertight cases for the X1 models of impeccable quality.

Both the aviation and automotive industries use ceramic, which is mostly used in the brakes of racing cars because it does not heat easily. The case of the BR 03 is made from this very hard material used to create components that are resistant to high temperatures.

Racing car tires are made from rubber. This material, with a very powerful grip, is used on the rim of the case and the push buttons of the BR X1 ensuring an excellent handling of the timekeeping function and a greater accuracy. The straps are also made from innovative materials. On the BR X1, rubber is paired with carbon fiber for a very sporty look.

Bell & Ross BR 03-94 RS17

This timepiece features a ceramic case designed to withstand shock and a sporty carbon fiber dial that makes it exceptionally well suited to the motor racing world. This lightweight, resilient material evokes the steering wheel of the Renault F1 car.

Bell and Ross BR 03-94 RS17

The Start & Stop push-button of the chronograph features yellow anodized aluminum. This iconic color has been used since Renault first entered Formula 1. It is also found on the internal bezel that features a tachymeter scale used to calculate the speed of a car: an indispensable function for a racing driver’s watch.

Technical details

Model: Bell and Ross BR 03-94 RS17

Movement
Calibre BR-CAL.301
Automatic mechanical

Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o’clock
Date
Chronograph for short time periods: 30-min timer at 9 o’clock, central chronograph seconds
Tachymeter scale on the flange

Case
42 mm in diameter
Matt black ceramic
Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance: 100 metres

Dial
Carbon fibre
Metal applique Superluminova®-filled numerals
Metal skeleton Superluminova®-filled hour and minute hands

Straps
Woven black rubber and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric
Buckle: Pin. Black PVD coated steel

Edition
Limited edition of 500 pieces

Bell & Ross BR X1 RS17 Skeleton Chronograph

This is an extreme variation of Bell & Ross’ iconic watch, the BR 03. It boasts all the elements that are essential to a chronograph watch designed for race drivers.

Highly sophisticated, its skeleton mechanism allows its gears to be admired through the grey-tinted sapphire crystal. The “rocker” type push buttons activate the chronograph function with great accuracy. They are made from high-tech ceramic and capped with yellow rubber for an improved grip.

Bell and Ross BR X1 RS17 Skeleton Chronograph

The bezel features a tachymeter scale designed for calculating racing speeds. Lastly, the dial flange is split into several hour segments, each of which has a corresponding color. This color segmentation makes the measured time easier to read.

The chronograph hands are yellow, the date is red, the small seconds hand is green and the hour hand, white. The latter is coated in SuperLuminova that guarantees excellent legibility, both day and night.

Technical details

Model: Bell and Ross BR X1 RS17 Skeleton Chronograph

Movement
Calibre BR-CAL.313
Automatic mechanical
‘X’-shaped upper bridge
56 jewels, 28,800 vph
Skeleton chronograph

Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o’clock
Skeleton date at 6 o’clock
Chronograph: 30-min timer at 9 o’clock, central chronograph seconds

Case
45 mm in diameter
Carbon Forgé® and ceramic with rubber inserts
Rocker push-buttons
Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating
Case-back with opening in tinted sapphire crystal, centered on the balance
Water-resistance: 100 metres

Dial
Grey-tinted sapphire crystal
Metal applique Superluminova®-filled numerals
Metal skeletonised Superluminova®-filled hour and minute hands

Strap
Bi-material: rubber and carbon fibre
Buckle: pin. Black PVD* steel finish and rubber insert

Edition

Limited edition of 250 pieces

Bell & Ross BR X1 TOURBILLON R.S.17

The hand-wound chronograph of the highest level of complication and a tourbillon make this watch an outstanding piece. It is incredibly complex, built with miniscule pieces and housed inside a “floating” cage that is fitted on a hub but appears to float in the air.

Bell and Ross BR X1 Tourbillon R.S.17

The chronograph function is activated by a paddle-style mono-pusher positioned to the right of the case. The key component of the system, the column wheel, coordinates the starting and stopping of the chronograph. The timer indications are red and yellow.

The 4-day power reserve is shown in green, and white hands coated in SuperLuminova indicate the time. This special coating guarantees legibility, even at night.

Technical details

Model: Bell and Ross BR X1 Tourbillon R.S.17

Movement
Calibre BR-CAL.283
Hand-wound Flying tourbillon
Mono-pusher column wheel chronograph
282 components, 35 jewels, 21,600 vph
4-day power reserve

Functions
Hours and minutes
Chronograph: 30-min timer at 11 o’clock, chronograph 60-sec timer at 1 o’clock
Power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock
Flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock

Case
45 mm in diameter
Carbon Forgé® and ceramic with rubber inserts
Rocker mono-pusher
Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
Sapphire case-back with anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance: 100 metres

Dial
Grey-tinted sapphire crystal
Metal applique Superluminova®-filled indices
Metal skeletonised Superluminova®-filled hour and minute hands

Strap
Bi-material: rubber and carbon fiber
Buckle: pin. Black PVD steel finish and rubber insert

Edition
Limited edition of 20 pieces

Bell & Ross BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon Sapphire Limited Edition

This high-tech, haute horology creation from Bell & Ross’ BR-X1 line combines two prestigious horology complications – Mono-pusher chronograph and Tourbillon – inside a painstakingly crafted Sapphire exterior which offers unlimited opportunities to admire the beauty of mechanical movement.

The BR-X1 CHRONOGRAPH TOURBILLON SAPPHIRE is built around a Flying Tourbillon master grand complication and Bell & Ross has added an ultra elegant mono-pusher chronograph. This unique and exclusive Haute Horlogerie caliber is prepared to be roused by the exquisite poetry of its movement.

The chronograph complication is visible and provides a privileged window into its many intricacies. Even the casual observer can admire the column wheel under the dial at 12 o’clock, the semi instantaneous jumping hand (rather than a traditional sweeping hand), and the power reserve indicator of 100 hours (at least 4 days) at 9 o’clock.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 Tourbillon Chronograph Sapphire

Masculine through and through, the main plate and pillars have been machined from a single block of metal. The perfectly executed skeletonizing of the movement, in a stunningly contemporary style and finish, allows the exceptional mechanics of this “horological turbine” to be observed when starting, stopping and resetting.

True aficionados will appreciate the extreme sophistication of the BR-X1 CHRONOGRAPH TOURBILLON SAPPHIRE with its 30-minute counter at 10 o’clock and 60-second counter at 2 o’clock for the chronograph functions. These are engaged by the mono-pusher rocker –positioned at 2 o’clock– which controls the Start, Stop and Reset functions.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 Tourbillon Chronograph Sapphire

A treat for the eyes, this outstanding timepiece offers breathtaking views into its inner workings. The power reserve differential and the barrel are also visible on the back. In a similar theatrical fashion, the flying tourbillon cage with the logogram “&” can be seen from every angle.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 Tourbillon Chronograph Sapphire

The extreme transparency of sapphire allows the eye an unequaled opportunity to virtually travel inside the movement and see the ingenious interactions in all their glory. Cutting a watchcase from a solid block of sapphire is an extremely difficult process. It takes long hours of machining, then polishing, to produce one.

The Bell and Ross BR-X1 CHRONOGRAPH TOURBILLON SAPPHIRE case is cut from 9 blocks of sapphire: middle piece, back, top, crystal and the four bumpers and is assembled with screws.

Technical details

Model: Bell and Ross BR-X1 Tourbillon Chronograph Sapphire
Limited Edition of 5 Pieces
Reference: BRX1-CHTB-SAPHIR

Movement
Calibre BR-CAL.285
Hand-wound flying tourbillon
Mono-pusher column wheel chronograph
282 components, 35 jewels, 21,600 vph
4-day power reserve

Case
45 mm in diameter
Sapphire

Dial
Skeleton
Metal appliqué indices with Superluminova inserts
Metal skeleton Superluminova-filled hours and minutes hands

Functions
Hours and minutes
Chronograph: 30-min timer at 11 o’clock, chronograph 60-sec timer at 1 o’clock
Power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock
Flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock

Strap
Bi-material strap
Translucent rubber with metallic Kevlar weaving
Buckle: pin. Polished steel

Bell & Ross Instrument De Marine Collection – BR01 Instrument De Marine, BR-X1 Skeleton Chronograph and BR-X1 Tourbillon Chronograph

With this new collection, Swiss luxury watch brand Bell & Ross pays tribute the legendary marine chronometers. The new Marine Instrument collection by Bell & Ross takes the essence of the legendary 18th century clock invented by John Harrison and scales it down to watch size.

At that time, ship’s clocks were housed inside square wooden cases. However, the display was round, just like the majority of modern watches: a circle within a square. In the design of these new watches, Bell & Ross combines contemporary and retro touches, and the materials play a very important role:-

  • INDIAN ROSEWOOD: This wood harks back to the hull and masts of the vessels and to the cases used to house the ship’s instruments at the time. Indian rosewood is a rare timber, of a warm pinkish red in color, with an elegant texture and very fine grain. It does, however, offer very high compressive strength. Working it requires a very meticulous approach. Firstly, it is shaved into very fine sheets, which are pressed, machined and then varnished.
  • BRONZE: The cases of the BR 01 Marine and BX1 Skeleton Chronograph are adorned with bronze, an alloy that brings to mind the brass used for the surrounds on the original ship’s clocks. When it comes into contact with air and moisture, this material takes on a brown or greyish-green patina. With no two-oxidation processes alike, these watches are transformed into unique pieces.
  • ROSE GOLD: This material is used for the BX1 Tourbillon Chronograph case. Rare and noble, gold is the perfect choice for such an exceptional model. Its warm color also pairs beautifully with the Indian rosewood.
  • GRADE 5 TITANIUM: The watchmaker has chosen modern, lightweight and resilient Grade 5 titanium for the central container section.

Bell and Ross BR 01 Instrument De Marine

A faithful rendering of a ship’s clock as a wristwatch, this model is similar to the iconic BR 01 in its execution. The BR 01 Marine Instrument has a stylish, subtly retro design. This watch has a case, bezel and winding crown made from bronze. Only the case-back features more contemporary titanium. In a final touch, an elegant band of rosewood encircles the dial of the watch.

Bell and Ross BR 01 Instrument De Marine

The dial pairs white lacquer, Roman numerals and fine blued steel hands, in tribute to the aesthetic of these 18th century instruments. The small seconds dial, with its delicate graphic layout, sits at 6 o’clock.

Bell and Ross BR 01 Instrument De Marine

The mechanism selected is a hand-wound movement, as would have been used in this era. It has a central hour and minute display, with the seconds at 6 o’clock. Finally, the power reserve, which, at 56 hours, is much greater than usual, is a tribute to long ocean crossings.

Technical details

Model: Bell and Ross BR 01 Instrument De Marine
Limited Edition of 500 Pieces

Movement
Calibre BR-CAL.203
Hand-wound mechanical
17 jewels, 21,600 vph
56-hours power reserve

Functions
Hours, minutes and small seconds at 6 o’clock

Case
46 mm diameter
Precious wood, titanium and CuSn8 bronze
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire
Water-resistance: 100 metres

Dial
White lacquer
Roman numerals
Blued hands

Strap
Brown alligator
Buckle: pin. Bronze

Bell and Ross BR-X1 Skeleton Chronograph

Bold and stylish, this chronograph is equipped with an automatic skeleton movement. This ultra-sophisticated mechanism can be admired through the sapphire crystal dial, which has a slight grey tint like the sea on a stormy day. It is paired with a minute track featuring Roman numerals and gilt applique indices, covered in SuperLuminova. The skeleton theme is continued with the gilt hands.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 Instrument De Marine

The sophisticated case is a symphony of titanium, rosewood and bronze. It encloses the bezel, push-pieces, crown and crown protector.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 Instrument De Marine

The automatic caliber provides a chronograph function, small seconds at 3 o’clock and skeleton date at 6 o’clock. The chronograph minute timer sits at 9 o’clock. Stripped of hands, it takes the form of an aluminum disc with a design clearly evoking a ship’s propeller.

Technical details

Model: Bell and Ross BR-X1 Instrument De Marine
Limited Edition of 99 Pieces

Movement
Calibre BR-CAL.313
Mechanical automatic
‘X’-shaped upper bridge
56 jewels, 28,800 vph
Skeleton chronograph

Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o’clock
Skeleton date at 6 o’clock
Chronograph: 30-min timer at 9 o’clock, central chronograph seconds

Case
45 mm diameter
Precious wood and CuSn8 bronze
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire
Back with opening in tinted sapphire crystal, centred on the balance
Water-resistance:100 metres

Dial
Grey-tinted sapphire crystal
Gilt appliqué indices with Superluminova inserts
Gilt skeleton Superluminova-filled hour and minute hands
Gilt aluminium 30-min chronograph timer disc

Strap
Brown alligator
Buckle: pin. Bronze

Bell and Ross BR-X1 Tourbillon Chronograph

The most exclusive version, this Haute Horlogerie model houses an exceptional hand wound mechanism. This prestigious version is housed in an 18-carat rose gold and wood case.

In classic fashion, the central hands on the dial indicate the hours and minutes. Two gilt metal counter discs sit at 2 and 10 o’clock. The first is the 60-second chronograph counter, equipped with a 6 impulse per second sweeping hand. The second is the 30-minute chronograph counter, with its semi-instantaneous jumping hand.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 Tourbillon Chronograph Instrument De Marine

The gilt tourbillon cage sits proudly at 6 o’clock. The skeleton work on the upper bridges allows a view of the exceptional chronograph movement that is triggered using the mono-pusher at 2 o’clock. A sophisticated hand-wound mechanism, the «flying» tourbillon has 282 minuscule constituent parts, and sits inside a delicate suspended cage. Unusually, it is fitted on the main plate without an upper bridge. This means it appears to float.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 Tourbillon Chronograph Instrument De Marine

This incredibly complex movement benefits from a colossal 100-hour power reserve, equivalent to 4 days, indicated by a hand (like a petrol gauge) set at 9 o’clock. The brand’s signature, the iconic «&», marks the seconds on the tourbillon cage.

Technical details

Model: Bell and Ross BR-X1 Tourbillon Chronograph Instrument De Marine
LIMITED EDITION OF 20 PIECES

Movement
Calibre BR-CAL.283
Hand-wound flying tourbillon
Mono-pusher column wheel chronograph
282 components, 35 jewels, 21,600 vph
4-day power reserve

Functions
Hours and minutes
Chronograph: 30-min timer at 11 o’clock, chronograph 60-sec timer at 1 o’clock
Power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock
Flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock

Case
45 mm diameter
18 ct rose gold and precious wood
Rocker push-button
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire
Sapphire case-back with anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance: 100 metres

Dial
Grey-tinted sapphire crystal
Gilt appliqué indices with Superluminova inserts
Gilt skeleton Superluminova-filled hour and minute hands

Strap
Brown alligator
Buckle: pin. 18 ct rose gold

Bell & Ross – BR‑X1 RS16 Skeleton Chronograph & BR‑X1 RS16 Skeleton Chronograph Tourbillon

Swiss watch brand Bell & Ross presents its exclusive BR‑X1 RS16 wristwatch collection to celebrate the exciting partnership with Renault Sport Formula One Team at Pirelli Chinese Grand Prix.

As the Official Watch Partner of the Renault Sport Formula One™ Team, Bell & Ross continues to celebrate this partnership debuted on March 18 in Melbourne, at the Formula 1 Pirelli Chinese Grand Prix in Shanghai.

The 5.4 km Shanghai International Circuit, famous for its demanding changes of acceleration in winding turns and high speed straights, will be an exciting arena for the release of a new limited edition pair of watches: the BR‑X1 RS16 and the BR‑X1 RS16 Tourbillon, named after the team’s new R.S. 16 race car for the 2016 season and exclusively available for retail at selective Grand Prix.

Bell and Ross BR‑X1 RS16 Skeleton Chronograph

The BR‑X1 RS16 Skeleton Chronograph and the BR‑X1 RS16 Skeleton Chronograph Tourbillon were created to withstand extreme conditions. They are armored, ingenious, robust and technical watches that stand out thanks to the innovative design of its 45 mm multi material case. Using materials like grade 5 titanium and Carbone Forgé®–a high‑tech composite material– the BRX1s are very lightweight, yet incredibly strong watches prepared for the impacts of this extreme field.

Carbone Forgé® is a material obtained using a unique, patented conversion process. The technology behind the process involves compressing carbon fibers with a thermosetting resin at high temperature in a steel mold. To meet watchmaking quality criteria, the engineers have reworked the carbon fibers and the composition of the resin.

The result is a non‑porous, water resistant single unit case with clean edges, in a deep black, which is the color of the carbon fibers. The marbled appearance of each piece is unique thanks to the random way the carbon fibers are mixed. The matt finish reduces reflection for better legibility and makes it soft to the touch.

Made from grey‑tinted sapphire crystal and featuring appliqué metal indices with photo‑luminescent inserts, the dial forms a clear window through which the exceptional movement can be admired. The faceted, Superluminova® filled hands and appliqué indices offer perfect legibility. A yellow rubber grip has also been integrated to the case to ensure better handling when activating the chronograph’s functions, even when wearing gloves.

As a subtle reference to the color associated with Renault Sport’s Formula 1 Team and the racing car field, both timepieces display yellow rubber inserts on the crown and the rocker push buttons.

Bell and Ross BR‑X1 RS16 Skeleton Chronograph

Embodying the very essence of the “automotive watch”, the BR‑X1 RS16 Skeleton Chronograph, a high‑tech chronograph with a sporty yet sophisticated design, is perfection when measuring short time intervals.

Its innovative rocker push buttons, used to activate the chronograph functions, are made from high‑tech ceramic with ergonomically designed yellow rubber inserts Essential for calculating speeds, the tachymeter scale appears on the dark grey flange. To improve legibility, the hands of the chronograph are brought out in yellow: it is an indispensable tool for driving.

Bell and Ross BR‑X1 RS16 Skeleton Chronograph

Technical details

Model: Bell and Ross BR‑X1 RS16 Skeleton Chronograph

Movement
Mechanical automatic
BR‑CAL.313. “X”‑shaped upper bridge
56 jewels, 28,800 vph
Skeleton chronograph

Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o’clock
Skeleton date at 6 o’clock
Chronograph: 30‑min timer at 9 o’clock, central chronograph seconds
Tachymeter scale on the flange

Case
45 mm diameter
Carbone Forgé®, grade 5 titanium and ceramic with rubber inserts
Rocker push‑buttons
Crystal: anti‑reflective sapphire
Back with opening in tinted sapphire crystal, centred on the balance
Water-resistance: 100 m

Dial
Grey tinted sapphire crystal
Metal appliqué indices with Superluminova® inserts
Metal skeleton Superluminova® filled hour and minute hands
Aluminium 30‑min chronograph timer disc

Straps
Woven rubber and bi‑material: rubber and carbon fiber
Buckle: pin. Black PVD steel finish and rubber insert.

Edition
Limited edition of 250 pieces

Bell and Ross BR‑X1 RS16 Skeleton Chronograph Tourbillon

In a more luxurious and high end version, the BR‑X1 RS16 Skeleton Chronograph Tourbillon is a celebration of a grand complication that is faithful to the inspiration of speed, strength and performance: the values that are shared with Formula 1.

Limited to 20 pieces, this extraordinary timepiece combines the extremely virile aesthetic codes of both Bell & Ross and Renault Sport Team with the technical refinement of Haute Horlogerie.

Bell and Ross BR‑X1 RS16 Skeleton Chronograph Tourbillon

Bell & Ross has developed a manual wind Skeleton Tourbillon Mono‑Pusher Chronograph, with column wheel movement, and hours and minutes in the center for a traditional display, as well as a 100‑hour (4 days) power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock.

A watch of extreme sophistication, the BR‑X1 Chronograph Tourbillon also has a 30‑minute counter at 10 o’clock and a 60 second counter at 2 o’clock for the chronograph functions.

With the tourbillon, clearly visible in its cage positioned at 6 o’clock, which serves as the ultimate guarantee of precision, the BR‑X1 RS16 Chronograph Tourbillon stands out as an exceptional instrument with a pioneering design.

Technical details

Model: Bell and Ross BR‑X1 RS16 Skeleton Chronograph Tourbillon

Movement
Calibre BR‑CAL.283
Hand‑wound flying tourbillon
Mono‑pusher column wheel chronograph
282 components, 35 jewels, 21,600 vph
4‑day power reserve

Functions
Hours and minutes
Chronograph: 30‑min timer at 11 o’clock, chronograph 60‑sec timer at 1 o’clock
Power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock
Flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock

Case
45 mm diameter
Carbone Forgé®, grade 5 titanium and ceramic with rubber inserts
Rocker push button
Crystal: anti‑reflective sapphire
Sapphire case back with anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance: 100 m

Dial
Grey tinted sapphire crystal
Metal appliqué indices with Superluminova® inserts
Metal skeleton Superluminova filled hour and minute hands

Strap
Woven rubber and bi‑material: rubber and carbon fiber
Buckle: pin. Black PVD steel finish and rubber insert

Edition
Limited edition of 20 pieces

Montblanc ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph Vasco da Gama Diamonds Limited Edition

Montblanc unveils a limited edition diamond studded version of the elegant ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph Vasco da Gama timepiece which made its debut in a white gold version at SIHH Geneva this year.

The Montblanc ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph Vasco da Gama Diamonds combines two of the most important chronometric complication: a chronograph to measure the duration of brief intervals and a patented tourbillon construction for absolute precision.

For this limited edition, the Montblanc ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph Vasco da Gama Diamonds has been the focus of particularly elaborate decorative work. Its 44 mm-diameter white gold case, polished and satin-finished to emphasise the elegance of the entire timepiece, is fitted with a bezel adorned with 76 diamonds.

Constantly pushing back the limits of precision, the master watchmakers and engineers of the Montblanc Manufacture in Villeret have conceived the ExoTourbillon, an ultra-precise regulating organ, equipped with an original structure that performs one revolution per minute.

Montblanc ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph Vasco da Gama Diamonds Limited Edition

In this in house-developed and patented structure, the bottom of the tourbillon cage, smaller than that of the screw balance, carries the escape-wheel, the pallets and the balance-spring stud that is attached to the balance-staff collet at both ends of the cage.

This innovative cage driven by the movement’s gear-train turns without friction in in a two-point bearing at the foot of its staff. Pierced at its center, it allows the passage of the extremely long balance-staff, the pivots of which rotate against jewels. This unique structure allows the balance, as it oscillates outside the cage and on a higher plane, to remain isolated from the cage.

Due to its reduced size and the fact that it is freed from the weight of the balance, the cage requires 30% less energy than a conventional tourbillon to drive its rotational movement.

Montblanc ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph Vasco da Gama Diamonds Limited Edition

A further advantage of this innovative construction (the name of which derives from the Greek prefix “Exo”, meaning “outside” or “external”) is also found in terms of precision, since the balance, now isolated from the rotating cage, is not disturbed by its inertia.

In order to benefit from the increased precision of this patented ExoTourbillon, Montblanc has incorporated into its movement a stop-second function obtained by inserting a small spring that is directly halting the screw balance, now freed from its cage allowing to precisely set the time without the tourbillon continuing to turn.

In order to precisely adjust the time, the tourbillon cage integrates a red marker in form of an arrow, which allows reading the seconds on the respective scale printed on the opening of the dial around the tourbillon.

This innovative Tourbillon construction is integrated in Montblanc’s own in-house developed chronograph calibre that combines all the elements of a traditional chronograph with a contemporary highly performant construction: monopusher with column wheel, efficient and precise vertical coupling, automatic winding and two barrels.

Montblanc ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph Vasco da Gama Diamonds Limited Edition

Two semicircular counters with hands of different lengths to match the appropriate sectorial scales, enable the Heritage Chronométrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph Diamonds to tally elapsed seconds and minutes. The date, always an extremely practical indication, is soberly displayed in the centre of the dial by a dedicated hand pointing to a circular scale arranged around the blue “flinqué” guilloché circle.

The hour hand is set to advance in hourly steps, a highly practical feature in that it allows for fast and easy setting when travelling. The setting of the hour-hand has no effect on the minute and second-hands, thus ensuring that precise time is always preserved.

To set the date display, the user advances or retreats the hour-hand through 24 hours. Whenever this hand’s tip passes the 24th hour, the hand of the date display either advances or retreats accordingly.

The sophisticated dial of the Heritage Chronométrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph Vasco da Gama Diamonds with different levels and refined finishes reflects the two complications of the timepiece.

Montblanc ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph Vasco da Gama Diamonds Limited Edition

The eye is first caught by the oscillations of the balance wheel, which, as it performs each revolution every minute, arouses our curiosity about the functioning of this mysterious tourbillon. It is surrounded by a slice of aventurine, dyed dark blue of which attracts the eye, and numerous small dots evoke a starry night-sky, in reference to the sky of the southern hemisphere that guided Vasco da Gama during his voyage.

Amid this star-spangled firmament, a diamond with a patented cut in the shape of the Montblanc emblem shines with all its brilliance at 12 o’clock. In the centre of the dial, the display with the date hand is adorned with a blue “flinqué” guilloché wave pattern, referring to the nocturlabium (star clock), which was one of the navigational instruments aboard the São Gabriel.

The pane of sapphire crystal inset into the back of the case is adorned with a sketch of Vasco da Gama’s floating flagship, the São Gabriel, together with the signature of the intrepid explorer and seafarer. The series is strictly limited to 25 pieces, referring to the geographical latitude of 25° N, the northern-most visibility point of the Southern Cross constellation.

Technical details

Model: Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph Vasco Da Gama Diamonds Limited Edition 25, Ident. No. 113356

Movement
Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB R230
Mechanical movement with double barrel, automatic winding mechanism, one-minute patented ExoTourbillon with stop-seconds mechanism
Chronograph Monopusher with column-wheel and vertical coupling
Dimensions: Diameter = 33.7 mm; height = 8.65 mm
No. of components: 296
No. of jewels: 44
Power reserve: About 50 hours
Balance: Screw balance, diameter = 9.7 mm; moment of inertia = 12 mg.cm2
Frequency: 21,600 vib/h (3 Hz)
Hairspring: Flat
Plate: Rhodium finish and circular-graining
Bridges: Rhodium finish and Côtes de Genève
Gear-train: Special tooth profile improves the efficiency of the power transmission

Displays
Off-centre hours and minutes
Date on an off-centre subdial
Patented ExoTourbillon at 6 o’clock (one revolution per minute to indicate the seconds) with a rhodium-finish tourbillon bridge
Chronograph: 60 elapsed seconds and 30 elapsed minute counters with double indication hands and corresponding sectorial scales

Special features
Travel function with rapid resetting of hour hand and date display, either forward or backward
Tourbillon can be stopped by directly halting the balance wheel
Habillage

Case
18 K white gold, polished case with satin-finish between the horns, bezel set with 76 diamonds
Crystal: Scratch-resistant, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both surfaces
Back: Screwed 18 K white gold back with inset pane of sapphire crystal with Vasco da Gama’s flagship, the São Gabriel, and his signature
Dimensions: Diameter = 44 mm; height = 14.79 mm
Water-resistance: 3 bar
Crown: 18 K white gold with Montblanc emblem in raised relief
Push-piece: Monopusher at 8 o’clock

Dial
Upper part made of aventurine depicts the sky at night with the patented Montblanc diamond at 12 o’clock and vertical satin-finished on the lower part, rhodium-finish sword-shaped hour and minute hands, date shown by a hand with a little red crescent at its tip on a blue flinqué guilloché wave pattern decoration on off-centre dial, chronograph with two counters with silver “fillets” (one counter for 60 elapsed seconds at 8 o’clock and a second counter for 30 elapsed minutes at 4 o’clock) with double indication hands and corresponding sectorial scales

Strap
Black alligator-skin strap crafted at the Montblanc Pelletteria in Florence with 18 K white gold pin buckle

Edition
Limited Edition of 25 pieces

Certification
Certified by the Montblanc Laboratory Test 500

Bell & Ross BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon (High-Tech Collection)

Revolutionary in its design and also inspired by aeronautical flight instruments, the BR-X1 line from Swiss watch maker Bell & Ross expands with a new exceptional Haute Horlogerie version: the BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon. This precious measuring instrument combines the extremely virile aesthetic codes of the brand with the technical refinement of Bell & Ross’ Haute Horlogerie.

An armoured, ingenious, muscular and technical watch, the BR-X1 has always stood out thanks to the innovative design of its 45 mm multi-material case. The functional, non-indexed screws, the single-piece structure of the case and the rocker pushers for the chronograph functions were designed to contribute to the sturdiness and ergonomy of the watch.

A «thumb rest» insert is integrated at nine o’clock for optimised handling when activating the chronograph functions. The ultra masculine and revolutionary architecture of this new generation go-anywhere timepiece allowed for infinite combinations in the design phase opening up a vast potential for creativity.

The new BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon is the ultimate symbol of Bell & Ross’ watchmaking expertise and the first chapter of an evolution that combines grand complication and faithfulness to the aeronautical inspiration that the brand cherishes.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon

The sophisticated and contemporary expression of an ultra virile high-tech line of watches, the “fuselage” of the BR-X1 brings Bell & Ross into new territory in creative watchmaking, who have always made professional timepieces that meet exacting requirements in terms of legibility, functionality, precision and reliability.

The integration of several fine complications (tourbillon, mono-pusher chronograph, power reserve indicator) in the square, rugged case of the BR-X1 firmly emphasises the intention to combine Haute Horlogerie with extreme robustness, refinement with professional instrumentation and tradition with a desire for modernity.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon

A skeleton tourbillon mono-pusher chronograph, this new generation BR-X1, with column wheel movement, displays hours and minutes in the centre for a traditional display, as well as a 100 hour (4 days) power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock.

A watch of extreme sophistication, the BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon also has a 30-minute counter at 10 o’clock and a 60 second counter at 2 o’clock for the chronograph functions. The function is engaged by the mono-pusher rocker – positioned at 2 o’clock – which controls the Start, Stop and Reset functions. A rare horological feature, the minute counter of the chronograph features a semi-instantaneous jumping hand, rather than the traditional sweeping hand.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon

Sophistication prevails in the 45 mm case: rocker monopusher, thumb rest insert, virile looks. Its architecture remains unchanged with the grade 5 titanium “container” providing lightweight, robustness and water resistance.  Cover, bezel, attachments, thumb rest, bumpers, crown guards, crown and caseback are made in 18 carat rose gold or titanium. It was important that the Haute Complication version of the BR-X1 be a chronograph, the complication par excellence in aviation.

Used to measure short times, it is an indispensable tool for aeronautical navigation. This traditional complication is here reinterpreted with the refinements of Haute Horlogerie and the very genuine desire to lighten the watch. The top of the range model of the BR-X1 range required a luxury watch movement, so Bell & Ross has developed a manual wind Skeleton Tourbillon Mono-Pusher Chronograph. This Haute Horlogerie grand complication movement is a marvel of technology consisting of 282 components and 35 rubies that beat at 21,600 vph.

The seconds counter of the chronograph is a 6 impulse per second sweeping hand. The perfectly executed skeletonising of the movement, in a very contemporary style and finish, allows the exceptional mechanics of this “horological turbine” to be observed when starting, stopping and resetting the chronograph.

The movement of the clutch lever at 4 o’clock and the engagement of the clutch wheel can be observed, like an incredibly technical horological ballet. The resetting strikers are clearly visible at 11 o’clock and 1 o’clock. The sophisticated centrepiece of this high end movement, the column wheel, enables smoother operation of the chronograph functions as they are engaged – something that is highly valued by lovers of fine watches.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon

The tourbillon, clearly visible in its cage positioned at six  o’clock, serves as the ultimate guarantee of precision. The “flying” tourbillon cage of the BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon is distinguished by the fact that it is mounted without a support bridge, giving the impression that it is floating or flying, and that it is not mounted at all.

To achieve what appears to contravene the laws of mechanics, the tourbillon of the BR-X1 required all the expertise of the in-house engineers, who worked in close partnership with the finest Swiss master watchmakers. The results combine technical precision with kinetic beauty in this flying tourbillon with open cage at 6 o’clock. Like a discreet signature, the ampersand (the iconic “&” of the brand) on the tourbillon cage sets the beat for the seconds.

In keeping with the Bell & Ross philosophy that merges respect for horological traditions with technical innovation, the finishes of the movement and the case of the BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon abide by the codes of Haute Horlogerie. They are carefully executed: satin and polished, chamfered edges, polishing and perlage. The bridge of the chronograph and the tourbillon cage are made of ruthenium.

The skeletonised movement allows the balance wheel to be admired through the dial. From the front, the sapphire crystal has an antireflective coating to ensure resistance and optimal legibility. Made from grey-tinted sapphire crystal and featuring appliqué metal indices with photo-luminescent inserts, the dial forms a clear window through which the exceptional skeletonised movement can be appreciated.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon

The sapphire crystal on the caseback exposes the geometry of the plates, which can be admired endlessly. The faceted, Superluminova-filled hands and appliqué indices offer perfect legibility. The bi-material high-strength rubber bracelet with alligator insert features a satin grade 5 titanium-steel alloy or 18 carat rose gold buckle.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon pink gold

Packed with high-tech sophistication, the BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon is available in two versions: grade 5 titanium or rose gold, with or without diamond setting.

Ultra light and very durable, the grade 5 titanium model, with its various shades of grey, is the more virile looking. Grade 5 titanium is a grade of titanium used in aeronautics, developed for its superior properties in hardness, durability and resistance to corrosion, erosion and high temperatures (stable up to 600°C). Grade 5 titanium alloy is an alloy reinforced with vanadium and aluminium to make it 40% lighter and 60% harder than steel.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon titanium

In its “fuselage” of 18 carat rose gold, the BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon places greater emphasis on elegance and its precious aspects, without losing an ounce of its technical features and sturdiness. It offers a more delicate appearance to the virile shape of this ergonomically proven ultimate professional tool.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon pink gold diamond set

Both versions are also available in jewel-encrusted versions: 46 baguette-cut diamonds (2.3 carat) set into a grade 5 titanium bezel for the titanium model and 46 baguette-cut diamonds (2.3 carat) set into a titanium rose gold bezel for the rose gold model to bring a very special sparkle to the wearer.

Bell and Ross BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon titanium diamond set

Technical details

Model: Bell and Ross BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon – Titanium

Limited edition of 20 pieces
High-tech collection

References
BR-X1 Tourbillon Titanium: BRX1-CHTB-TI
BR-X1 Tourbillon Titanium Diamonds: BRX1-CHTB-TI-D

Movement
BR-CAL.283. Chronograph tourbillon, hand-wound mono-pusher
282 components, 35 jewels, 21,600 vph
4-days power reserve

Functions
Hours and minutes
Chronograph: 30-min timer at 10 o’clock, chronograph 60-sec timer at 2 o’clock
Power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock
Flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock

Case
45 mm in diameter
Grade 5 titanium
Rocker push-button
Diamond model: grade 5 titanium bezel set with baguette-cut white diamonds(46 baguettes totalling 2.3 ct)
Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
Sapphire case-back with anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 100 m.

Dial
Grey- tinted sapphire crystal
Metal appliqué indices with Superluminova® inserts
Metal skeleton Superluminova®-filled hour and minute hands

Strap
Rubber and alligator
Buckle: pin. Titanium

Model: Bell and Ross BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon- Rose Gold

Limited Edition of 20 Pieces
Collection: High-Tech Collection

References
BR- X1 TOURBILLON ROSE GOLD: BRX1-CHTB-PG
BR- X1 TOURBILLON ROSE GOLD DIAMONDS: BRX1-CHTB-PG-D

Movement
BR-CAL.283. Chronograph tourbillon, hand-wound mono-pusher
282 components, 35 jewels, 21,600 vph
4-days power reserve

Functions
Hours and minutes
Chronograph: 30-min timer at 10 o’clock, chronograph 60-sec timer at 2 o’clock
Power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock
Flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock

Case
45 mm in diameter
18 ct rose gold
Rocker push-button
Diamond model: 18 ct rose gold bezel set with baguette-cut white diamonds (46 baguettes totalling 2.3 ct)
Water resistance: 100 m
Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating
Sapphire case-back with anti-reflective coating
Gold weight: 77,39 gr

Dial
Grey-tinted sapphire crystal
Gilt appliqué indices with Superluminova® inserts
Gilt skeleton Superluminova®-filled hour and minute hands

Strap
Rubber and alligator
Buckle: pin. 18 ct rose gold

Vacheron Constantin Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph (Caliber 3200)

The Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph from Vacheron Constantin’s brand new Harmony Collection is an elegant and precious piece of haute horlogerie.

Powered by the new hand-winding Vacheron Constantin Caliber 3200, this remarkable timepiece joins the Harmony collection designed to accommodate medium complication and grande complication movements, to the delight of collectors and informed connoisseurs.

Combining the elegance of the monopusher chronograph with the prestige of a stunning tourbillon shaped like the Maltese Cross, this exceptional new model is issued in a highly exclusive series of 26 individually numbered timepieces.

Vacheron Constantin Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph Platinum

Housed in a precious 950 platinum case, Vacheron Constantin Caliber 3200 bearing the Hallmark of Geneva features a bridge handengraved with delicate scrolling patterns.

Specially created by the brand designers to set apart the exclusive series dedicated to the 260th anniversary of the Manufacture, this original motif, also known as “fleurisanne engraving”, is inspired by the arabesques adorning the balance-cock on the oldest pocket watch belonging to the Maison and signed by Jean-Marc Vacheron in 1755.

Vacheron Constantin Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph movement Calibre 3200

This new movement entirely designed, developed and produced in the Manufacture benefits from a number of technological breakthroughs enhancing the precision and reliability of its complex functions, while improving the user friendliness of this highly sophisticated timepiece.

Vacheron Constantin Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph movement Calibre 3200

The development of Caliber 3200 began in 2008 with the clear aim of making a classic construction incorporating cutting-edge technologies.

In addition to a traditional architecture, its column wheel and its lateral coupling clutch, the new Caliber 3200 by Vacheron Constantin, driving the hours, minutes, small seconds, tourbillon, monopusher chronograph and power-reserve indications, is particularly innovative.

 Vacheron Constantin Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph movement Calibre 3200

Among the major evolutions enriching this new chronograph movement equipped with a dragging 45-minute counter – rather than the traditional 30-minute type – is an uncompromisingly dynamic chronograph-activation system devised by the development team. On traditional constructions, the mechanism is sometimes activated but does not actually start if the pusher is not pressed firmly enough.

With this “all or nothing” system, the gears and cams cannot be set into motion without actually starting the mechanism, thereby considerably optimising the durability and reliability of the movement. Moreover, thanks to a new “friction” technique for the lateral coupling clutch, the chronograph seconds hand avoids the little jerk that tends to occur when the chronograph is activated.

Vacheron Constantin Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph movement Calibre 3200

In addition, the sliding-type lateral pusher ensures improved control of the chronograph functions.

With the aim of substantially enhancing the precision of the operational sequences, the chronograph uses two hammers instead of one for the start, stop and reset functions.

Each exercises pressure on the heart-shaped cams, which turn in clockwise or counter-clockwise directions. The hands are thus brought back to zero. The hammers also return to their original place when the blocking-levers resume their initial position.

It is worth noting that the cone-shaped gear between winding pinion and the crown wheel enables extremely smooth, gentle winding, while the spherical differential (also fitted with a cone-shaped gear) serving to indicate the power reserve also prolongs the movement’s life cycle.

Vacheron Constantin Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph movement Calibre 3200

In another significant breakthrough, contemporary production methods proved useful in designing the chronograph wheels and the friction system, by making it possible to produce an extremely precise wheel profile guaranteeing that clearance between the gears is kept to an absolute minimum thanks to teeth separated by a mere 0.03 mm.

Vacheron Constantin Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph movement Calibre 3200

Whether visible or hidden from sight, these refined details embody the art of watchmaking upheld by Vacheron Constantin, also showcased in the chronograph gears hollowed in the brand-signature Maltese Cross shape, as well as the column-wheel screw adorned with the same emblem.

Endowed with a generous 65-hour power reserve, this mechanical hand-winding complication movement is composed of 292 parts, all hand-decorated in keeping with the rules of the watchmaking art. So as to offer a clearer view of the fascinating choreography performed by the tourbillon at 12 o’clock, the developers of the Manufacture have made the carriage move in an unusual way.

Vacheron Constantin Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph movement Calibre 3200

Instead of being driven by the pinion of the seconds wheel, the tourbillon carriage is set into motion by an intermediate wheel of the running seconds display. This configuration enables an extremely broad opening onto the upper plate, thus affording an even more spectacular view of the tourbillon. The Research & Development team also opted for an oscillating frequency of 2.5 Hz (18,000 vph) in order to guarantee a serene cadence.

Thanks to this slow, steady pace, the ultra-light tourbillon composed of 49 parts – some of them specular-polished – and weighing just 0.55 grams in all, provides generous views of its airy ballet through an extremely wide opening in the opaline dial, while a small blued screw adorning the Maltese Cross points towards the seconds around its rim.

Vacheron Constantin Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph

Admirably revealed within the sculptural shapes of an entirely reinvented cushion-shaped case, this fascinating complication cuts a distinguished figure on the pure, perfectly readable dial.

Blue-painted Arabic numerals inspired by the original 1928 model, but reinterpreted in an entirely contemporary expression of elegance, gracefully match the blued hands displaying the chronograph functions. A vivid red minute circle punctuates the dial circumference, swept over by an elegant pair of leaf-type hands.

Vacheron Constantin Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph

Exclusive by its very nature, this new model combining two of the most prestigious and highly sought after complications in the watchmaking world embodies classic elegance matched by a firmly contemporary spirit.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph
Reference: 5100S/000P-B056
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Only available in Vacheron Constantin Boutiques

Movement
Calibre 3200
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
32.8 mm (14’’’ ½) diameter
6.7 mm thick
Approximately 65 hours of power reserve
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
292 components
39 jewels
Bridge hand-engraved with a dedicated 260th anniversary pattern

Indications
Hours, minutes
Small seconds on tourbillon carriage (bluished screw)
Tourbillon
Monopusher chronograph (45-minute counter at 3 o’clock)
Power reserve

Case
Platinum 950
42 mm x 52 mm, 12.81 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial
Silvered opaline
Blue painted Arabic numerals and red painted minute-track

Strap
Blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp: Platinum 950 triple blade folding clasp, Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Presentation box
Dedicated 260th anniversary presentation box

Accessories
Delivered with a magnifying glass, a dedicated brochure on the Harmony product line and a 260th anniversary celebration letter signed by Mr. Juan-Carlos Torres, CEO of Vacheron Constantin

Edition
Limited edition of 26 individually numbered pieces« N° X/26 » and « 260th Anniversary » engraved on the back of the timepiece

Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 – ExoTourbillon Chronographe

At the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH 2013) in Geneva, Montblanc unveieled two new and exclusive ExoTourbillon Chronographe models from the Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858.

The ExoTourbillon Chronographe adds another extraordinarily exclusive timepiece to the Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858. This regulator wristwatch combines a large minute-hand and elapsed-seconds hand at the centre of the dial, a small off-centre circle for the hours, a second time zone with day/night indication, a small hand for the continually running seconds and a chronograph with a counter for 30 elapsed minutes.

This Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 Tourbillon first attracted admiring attention with its patented construction in 2010. Its balance is larger and oscillates on a different plane than the rotating cage. This exclusive timepiece now debuts in an attractive new edition which gives an entirely unprecedented look to its spectacular mechanisms.

The 18 carat gold dial, which has a distinctively three-dimensional effect, is available with either black or silver-grey décor and with a finely grained texture that contrasts tastefully with shiny hands, applied subdials and polished steel components.

Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 - ExoTourbillon Chronographe in red gold

The ExoTourbillon Chronographe is the first watch in Montblanc’s Villeret 1858 Collection to unite two of the most avidly admired horological complications: a chronograph function and a tourbillon. Mastery of the difficulty of crafting these complications numbers among the distinguishing characteristics of the Montblanc Manufacture in Villeret, which has here combined the two complications in a highly unusual fashion: the chronograph upholds the lovely tradition with a column-wheel and horizontal coupling, and the four-minute tourbillon.

But what exactly does a tourbillon accomplish? Due to the subassembly’s architecture, the center of gravity of the balance and balance-spring in every mechanical watch is never absolutely collinear with the center of the balance’s axis of rotation. This off-centeredness causes a disadvantage when the watch is in a vertical position: the oscillations of the balance are disturbed by the influence of gravity on its eccentric center of gravity. The ingenious tourbillon mechanism was invented to solve this problem: the balance is borne inside a cage that continually rotates around its own axis.

The eccentric center of gravity accordingly orbits the tourbillon’s axis of rotation at this same rate. The accelerating effect caused by the Earth’s gravity on the center of gravity during the first 180° of the tourbillon’s rotation is compensated by an analogous de-accelerating effect during the second 180°. The long-term result is a movement that runs at a regular rate.

This clever mechanism underwent further optimization for the ExoTourbillon Chronographe: the balance has been separated from the cage to isolate it from the disturbing movements of the escapement. This separation made it possible to create the world’s first tourbillon in which the rotating cage is smaller than the balance, which oscillates outside the cage and on a higher plane.

This architecture also inspired the watch’s name, which includes the Greek prefix exo, meaning outside. The balance in this unconventional configuration is borne between two jewels – it is neither cantilevered (“flying”) nor is it borne between two bridges – while the tourbillon turns at the foot of the axis in a two-point bearing.

The reason for this most elaborate construction is that the traditionally large and massive balance would have required a comparably large rotating cage if it had been positioned within a conventional tourbillon. A smaller tourbillon has less mass and consequently requires less energy for its rotations. The rotating cage is also freed from the weight of the balance, which further reduces the amount of energy it consumes. This architecture requires about 30% less energy than conventional constructions. The energy saved here can be used to power the chronograph’s functions.

Another essential advantage: Being separated from the rotating cage, the balance is not adversely affected by the inertia of the cage and consequently oscillates with greater precision.

This innovation is entirely in accord with the statutory task of the Institut Minerva: namely, to cultivate the authentic Swiss watchmaking tradition and to combine it with ongoing innovation, thereby assuring a bright future for this noble and artful handicraft. It goes without saying that this invention has been registered for patent protection and that it will be used exclusively in the timepieces which comprise Montblanc’s Villeret 1858 Collection.

The owner of an ExoTourbillon Chronographe can enjoy the spectacular vista of a large balance (with weight screws along its rim) that’s free to oscillate in all its beauty and turns around its own axis, without being cramped inside the narrow confines of the tourbillon’s cage.

With commensurate self-confidence, it proudly presents itself in a large aperture cut into the dial at the “12 o’clock” position and above a plate that has been manually embellished with circular graining.

Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 - ExoTourbillon Chronographe in white gold

To honour these spectacular mechanisms, Montblanc is launching the unconventional monopusher chronograph with ExoTourbillon in a strictly limited new edition of eight timepieces in 18 karat white gold and eight wristwatches in 18 karat red gold.

Tourbillon Chronograph with New Regulator Dial 

Each model has the typical face of a regulator timepiece with a large minute-hand (and the chronograph’s elapsed-seconds hand) at the dial’s centre, complemented by an off-centre subdial for the hours with a pair of hour-hands for two different time zones: the hour in the local zone is shown by a golden hand with the same hue as the case; a blued hand indicates the hour in the other selected time zone.

Various shapes arranged on different levels give the dial a strongly spatial effect that’s impossible to overlook. Time merely becomes the fourth dimension on this dial’s three dimensional stage. The performance begins with the clearly visible ExoTourbillon: its bridge is firmly screwed to a manually circular-grained plate and it offers an unobstructed view into the depths of the movement. The plate is coated with rhodium for the white gold watch; a layer of red gold gilds it in the red gold model.

The main dial is crafted from solid gold and adorned with a finely grained grainé décor onto which all displays – except the small continually running second-hand at “9 o’clock” – are added as appliqués in the same colour as the case.

The subdial for the hours at “6 o’clock” has an outer and an inner numbered circle: these annuluses are separated from one another by a slightly inset zone with a fine sunburst pattern; both calibrated rings are circularly satin-finished and bear black Roman numerals. A slender raised border surrounds the subdial for the hours.

A similar frame encloses the chronograph’s counter for 30 elapsed minutes at “3 o’clock”, where hands of different lengths and different colours serve two differently coloured scales for 0 to 15 and 15 to 30 minutes.

At “4:30” is the finely encircled 24-hour subdial with a blued hand – matching the blued hand for the second time zone This subdial’s semicircular scales are coloured either pale or dark to match the corresponding half of the day, and two greyish segments signify morning and evening twilight. The words “LEVER” (rise) and “COUCHER” (set) indicate the beginning and the end of the daytime hours at 6 a.m. and 6 p.m., respectively.

Monopusher Chronograph with Column-Wheel Control

The Calibre 16.60 is a chronograph movement with a large and centrally axial counter for the elapsed seconds, a counter for 30 elapsed minutes, a classical column-wheel and horizontal coupling.

The chronograph lever is elaborately finished by hand, and the mise en fonction is likewise accomplished manually: the surfaces where the chronograph lever contacts the column-wheel and the heart disc are observed through a watchmaker’s loupe during the operation of the chronograph’s functions and are gradually and meticulously abraded to a tolerance in the hundredths-of-a-millimeter range. The steel parts and the chronograph bridge (in the “V” shape typical of Minerva’s products) are manually beveled and polished.

A finely grained stone is used to polish the lever; the bridges are manually adorned with Geneva stripes. The large and massive balance, with weight screws along its rim and a Phillips curve at one end of its balance-spring, oscillates at the classical frequency of 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour (2.5 hertz), which makes it possible to measure brief intervals to the nearest fifth of a second. The chronograph’s start, stop and return-to-zero functions are operated sequentially by depressing a button in the crown.

Second Time Zone and Day/Night Display

Frequent flyers will appreciate the fact that the ExoTourbillon Chronographe can display the time in two different time zones. The skeletonized hour-hand on the hours subdial indicates the local time, while the tip of the blued steel hour-hand points to the hour in the wearer’s home time zone.

When the watch is worn in the home zone, these two hands are always positioned one atop the other; when the wearer travels to a different time zone, he or she can press the button at the “8” to advance the local-time hour-hand in single-hour increments until the hand indicates the correct local time. The current time at the wearer’s home is shown on the little 24- hour dial with day/night indicator and blued steel hand.

Collector’s Items in a Limited Edition

Also because they’re manufactured in strictly limited editions, the chronographs in Montblanc’s Villeret 1858 Collection are ardently sought rarities. This distinction is further enhanced by the extremely unusual combination of a chronograph and a tourbillon, and even further refined by the presence of a unique tourbillon construction.

Only one unique piece of the ExoTourbillon Chronographe will be manufactured in platinum, along with limited editions of 8 pieces each in 18K white gold and in 18K red gold (5N).

Each of the impressive 47-mm-diameter cases is high-gloss polished and fitted with an arcing bezel that securely holds a highly domed sapphire crystal with vertically falling flanks (forme chevée).

A pane of sapphire crystal is integrated into the back, which is screwed to the case and protected by a hinged cover which is opened by a patented mechanism concealed between the horns. Each watch is engraved with the words “Edition Limitée,” “Montblanc” and “Fait main à Villeret” (i.e. handmade in Villeret).

The interior of the hinged cover is signed “Demetrio Cabiddu Maître Horloger,” thus identifying by name the technical director of the manufacture, who led the team that developed the Calibre 16.60.

This bears the gold-filled engraving “Minerva Villeret” and can be admired by peering through the pane of sapphire crystal in the back of the watch when the cover is opened.

Naturally, the Montblanc logo hasn’t been forgotten: the familiar six-pointed star, which symbolizes the six tongues of the glacier that covers Europe’s tallest mountain peak, has represented the utmost in European handcraftsmanship for many decades. The same stellar emblems, executed in genuine motherof- pearl, grace the watches’ winding crowns.

These new collector’s items in Montblanc’s Villeret 1858 Collection are affixed to alligator leather straps, each of which is equipped with a pronged buckle made of either 18K white gold, or 18K red gold, depending upon the material of which the model’s case is made.

The new Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 ExoTourbillon Chronographe will be available starting in January 2013.

Technical details

Model: Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 – ExoTourbillon Chronographe
References: 109150 and 109151

Movement
Calibre: MBM 16.60
Type of movement: Hand-wound with chronograph, small seconds, second time zone and four-minute tourbillon escapement
Chronograph: Monopusher mechanism with column-wheel and horizontal coupling
Dimensions: Diameter 38.4 mm; height 10,34 mm
No. of components: 341, including 51 components for the tourbillon cage
No. of bearing jewels: 32 (hemispherical, domed, olive-cut)
Power reserve: 50 hours
Balance: Screw balance, Ø 14.5 mm; 59 mgcm2
Frequency: 18’000 semi-oscillations per hour (2.5 hertz)
Tourbillon: One rotation every four minutes
Balance-spring: With Phillips terminal curve
Plate: Rhodium-plated nickel silver, circular graining on both sides
Bridges: Rhodium-plated nickel silver, côtes de Genève
Going-train: Gold-plated, faceted arms, hubs with diamond polished surfaces

Watch displays
The hours in the first and second time zone are shown at the “6,” the minutes are indicated from the center of the dial, continuous seconds on a subdial at the “9,” day/night indicator with 24-hour display between the “4” and the “5”
Chronograph: Centre seconds, 30 minute counter at 3 o`clock indicators

Case
Case 18 K white or red gold; domed sapphire crystal (forme chevée), transparent pane of sapphire crystal inset into screwed back beneath hinged cover
Dimensions: Diameter 47 mm; height 16,67 mm
Water tightness: To three bar (30 meters)
Horns: With patented mechanism to open the hinged cover on the underside
Crown: With integrated button to operate the chronograph and mother-of-pearl emblem
Pusher: In the case’s flank at 8 o`clock to adjust the second time zone

Dial
18 K gold with grained anthracite decoration (109150) / grained silver-plated decoration (109151), polished, satin-finished counters and Roman numerals
Hands 18 K gold, chronograph’s elapsed-seconds handmade of PfinodalTM

Wristband
Hand-sewn alligator-leather pronged buckle made of 18 K red gold or 18 K white gold

Limited edition
18 K white gold and 18 K red gold, limited to 8 pieces each

Jean Dunand Palace – Manual Winding Flying Tourbillon Watch with Monopusher Chronograph, GMT and Power Reserve Display (Inspired from London’s Crystal Palace & Eiffel Tower of Paris)

The Jean Dunand Palace watch takes its name from London’s Crystal Palace, built for the Great Exhibition of 1851, while sharing aesthetic details with the Eiffel Tower.

Jean Dunand Palace watch

At the heart of the manually-wound Palace watch beats a one-minute flying tourbillon, placed at the 6 o’clock position, the balance operating at a frequency of 3Hz. Above it are skeletal hour and minute hands, and a sapphire crystal 60-minute counter for the chronograph. On either side of the flying tourbillon are two vertical tracks, the one in the right-hand corner charting its 72-hour power reserve, the other a linear GMT indicator.

Jean Dunand Palace

Instead of a rotary dial, the Palace shows its second time zone through 12-hour indications on either side of the oval-shaped trace. Its form reminds the wearer of the legendary “Milwaukee Mile” racing circuit, which hosted its first automobile race in 1903, and witnessed battles between early motoring giants such as Ralph DePalma and Barney Oldfield.

Jean Dunand Palace watch

The indicator arrow, mounted in a disc that mirrors that of the power reserve, makes two passes. When the disc reaches the end, it flies back to the top and the arrow rotates 180 degrees to chart the other scale. Adjustments to the GMT scale, in one hour increments, are made through the GMT advance button positioned between the lugs at 6 o’clock.

Proudly recalling Charlie Chaplin’s classic film, Modern Times, are the most striking visual clues to the maker’s homage to the Industrial Revolution: bridges and wheels visible through the back of the Palace, as well as the unique winding mechanism, prominent on the watch’s frontal aspect. The winder communicates its power to the barrel via an exquisitely-fashioned, microscopically tiny chain, designed.

Jean Dunand Palace watch movement

Providing structure to the movement are plates which are ridged to suggest the reinforcement of a massive, cast-iron structure. The plates are separated and supported by ten minuscule pillars, visible through the arched glass windows in the case’s sides.

Jean Dunand Palace watch

Other details – cast, machined, engraved – recall the cross-pieces found in both the bridges of the era and the form of the Eiffel Tower. Paris’ most iconic edifice also inspired the Palace’s side view: the arches look exactly like the Eiffel Tower’s base.

So complex and detail-rich is the Palace that each will be supplied with a loupe, to enable the owner to study it over the years.

Jean Dunand Palace watch crown

Its many details and secrets will reveal themselves surreptitiously, the observer finding something new to admire every time it is examined. Such a wealth of function, form and detail demands a stately enclosure: at 38mm by 36mm the movement is larger than most complete watches, so the majestic case is a generous 48mm by 49mm providing the spaciousness a Palace deserves.

With the Palace, this maker redefines the form of the mono-pusher chronograph, augmented by the GMT function and flying tourbillon.

Technical details

Model: Jean Dunand Palace

Movement details
Calibre CLA 02CMP
Mono-pusher chronograph with manual winding,
Seconds indication, 60-minute counter.
One-minute flying Tourbillon.
Power reserve and GMT indicator for second time zone.
Sliding rod transmission via hollow cam.
Chain-drive for winding mechanism.
Dimensions: 38 x 36.4 mm.
Total height: 12.42 mm.
Number of parts: 703, including 53 jewels.

Tourbillon
– One-minute flying Tourbillon.
– Flat balance-spring, frequency of 21,600 a/h.
– Balance with adjusting screws.
– Centre alignment of mainspring barrel for flying Tourbillon.

Indications
– Minutes and hours hands, Chronograph counter for 60 minutes.
– Power reserve and second time zone via linear displays.

Controls
– Chronograph pusher integrated with winding crown.
– Press button in the case band at 6 o’clock position to adjust the GMT.
– Winding System: Crown at 3 o’clock position, feeding the main spring via micro-chain.

Power Reserve
Approximately 72 hours.

Other details
Dimensions: 48.2 x 49.9 mm
Total height: 16.65 mm.
Caseband made of titanium, bezel-caseback-lugs fashioned in 18 carat 5N red gold or white gold.
Fitted with matching deployant clasp.
Two domed, non-reflecting sapphire crystals.
Two non-reflecting lateral windows in sapphire crystal.
Water-Resistance: 3 ATM (30 metres).
Hands: See-through “Glaive” style in 18k gold.

Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 – New ExoTourbillon Chronographe

The newest creation in Montblanc´s Collection Villeret 1858 features a delightfully surprising and trailblazing innovation. The new ExoTourbillon Chronographe is a regulator watch with a large centrally axial minute-hand, a distinct hour display, an indicator for the time in a second time zone (with day/night display), a subdial for the seconds, a chronograph with a counter for 30 elapsed minutes, and an absolutely unprecedented tourbillon with a balance larger than the tourbillon´s rotating cage and positioned outside it.

Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 - New ExoTourbillon ChronographeThe ExoTourbillon Chronographe is the first watch in Montblanc´s Villeret 1858 Collection to unite two of the most avidly admired horological complications: a chronograph function and a tourbillon.

Mastery of the difficulty of crafting these complications numbers among the distinguishing characteristics of the Institut Minerva, which has here combined the two complications in a highly unusual fashion: the chronograph upholds the lovely tradition with a column-wheel and horizontal coupling, and the four-minute tourbillon boasts a never-before- seen innovation.

But what exactly does a tourbillon accomplish? Due to the subassembly´s architecture, the center of gravity of the balance and balance-spring in every mechanical watch is never absolutely collinear with the center of the balance´s axis of rotation. This off-centeredness causes a disadvantage when the watch is in a vertical position: the oscillations of the balance are disturbed by the influence of gravity on its eccentric center of gravity.

The ingenious tourbillon mechanism was invented to solve this problem: the balance is borne inside a cage that continually rotates around its own axis. The eccentric center of gravity accordingly orbits the tourbillon´s axis of rotation at this same rate. The accelerating effect caused by the Earth´s gravity on the center of gravity during the first 180 degree of the tourbillon´s rotation is compensated by an analogous de-accelerating effect during the second 180 degree. The long-term result is a movement that runs at a regular rate.

This clever mechanism underwent further optimization for the ExoTourbillon Chronographe: the balance has been separated from the cage to isolate it from the disturbing movements of the escapement. This separation made it possible to create the world´s first tourbillon in which the rotating cage is smaller than the balance, which oscillates outside the cage and on a higher plane. This architecture also inspired the watch´s name, which includes the Greek prefix exo, meaning outside.

The balance in this unconventional configuration is borne between two jewels – it is neither cantilevered (“flying”) nor is it borne between two bridges – while the tourbillon turns at the foot of the axis in a two-point bearing.

The reason for this most elaborate construction is that the traditionally large and massive balance would have required a comparably large rotating cage if it had been positioned within a conventional tourbillon. A smaller tourbillon has less mass and consequently requires less energy for its rotations. The rotating cage is also freed from the weight of the balance, which further reduces the amount of energy it consumes. This architecture requires about 30% less energy than conventional constructions. The energy saved here can be used to power the chronograph´s functions.

Another essential advantage: Being separated from the rotating cage, the balance is not adversely affected by the inertia of the cage and consequently oscillates with greater precision. This innovation is entirely in accord with the statutory task of the Institut Minerva: namely, to cultivate the authentic Swiss watchmaking tradition and to combine it with ongoing innovation, thereby assuring a bright future for this noble and artful handicraft. It goes without saying that this invention has been registered for patent protection and that it will be used exclusively in the timepieces which comprise Montblanc´s Villeret 1858 Collection.

The owner of an ExoTourbillon Chronographe can enjoy the spectacular vista of a large balance (with weight screws along its rim) that´s free to oscillate in all its beauty and turns around its own axis, without being cramped inside the narrow confines of the tourbillon´s cage. With commensurate self-confidence, it proudly presents itself in a large aperture cut into the dial at the “12 o´clock” position and above a plate that has been manually embellished with circular graining.

Tourbillon Chronograph with Regulator Dial

The watch´s face boasts a typical regulator configuration. A large minute-hand and the chronograph´s elapsed seconds-hand share a common axis at the center of the dial. The subdial for the hours is shifted out of the center and occupies the lower half of the watch´s face.

Additional displays portray a miniature solar system with a golden sun (the tourbillon) at the “12,” the Earth at the “6,” the moon in the form of a small 24-hour dial between the “4” and the “5” (as a day/night display for the time in a second time zone), and two other heavenly bodies in the form of the small seconds at the “9” and the chronograph´s counter for 30 elapsed minutes at the “3.”

The last-mentioned display is semicircular, with two differently colored scales calibrated for 0 to 15 and 15 to 30 minutes, respectively. The tips of two unequally long and differently colored hands each serves its designated scale.

Monopusher Chronograph with Column Wheel Control

The Calibre 16.60 is a chronograph movement with a large and centrally axial counter for the elapsed seconds, a counter for 30 elapsed minutes, a classical column-wheel and horizontal coupling.

The chronograph lever is elaborately finished by hand, and the mise en fonction is likewise accomplished manually: the surfaces where the chronograph lever contacts the column-wheel and the heart disc are observed through a watchmaker´s loupe during the operation of the chronograph´s functions and are gradually and meticulously abraded to a tolerance in the hundredths-of-a-millimeter range. The steel parts and the chronograph bridge (in the “V” shape typical of Minerva´s products) are manually beveled and polished.

A finely grained stone is used to polish the lever; the bridges are manually adorned with Geneva stripes. The large and massive balance, with weight screws along its rim and a Phillips curve at one end of its balance-spring, oscillates at the classical frequency of 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour (2.5 hertz), which makes it possible to measure brief intervals to the nearest fifth of a second. The chronograph´s start, stop and return-to-zero functions are operated sequentially by depressing a button in the crown.

Second Time Zone and Day/Night Display

Frequent flyers will appreciate the fact that the ExoTourbillon Chronographe can display the time in two different time zones. The skeletonized hour-hand on the hours subdial indicates the local time, while the tip of the blued steel hour-hand points to the hour in the wearer´s home time zone.

When the watch is worn in the home zone, these two hands are always positioned one atop the other; when the wearer travels to a different time zone, he or she can press the button at the “8” to advance the local-time hour-hand in single-hour increments until the hand indicates the correct local time. The current time at the wearer´s home is shown on the little 24- hour dial with day/night indicator and blued steel hand.

Collector´s Items in a Limited Edition

Also because they´re manufactured in strictly limited editions, the chronographs in Montblanc´s Villeret 1858 Collection are ardently sought rarities. This distinction is further enhanced by the extremely unusual combination of a chronograph and a tourbillon, and even further refined by the presence of a unique tourbillon construction.

Only one unique piece of the ExoTourbillon Chronographe will be manufactured in platinum, along with limited editions of 8 pieces each in 18K white gold and in 18K red gold (5N).

The watches with white or red gold cases have massive gold dials on which the slender grooves of manually applied guilloche embellishment invite incident lights to dance. Delicately shimmering mother-of-pearl is inset into portions of the dial on the one-of-a-kind platinum watch. Each of the impressive 47-mm-diameter cases is high-gloss polished and fitted with an arcing bezel that securely holds a highly domed sapphire crystal with vertically falling flanks (forme chevée).

A pane of sapphire crystal is integrated into the back, which is screwed to the case and protected by a hinged cover which is opened by a patented mechanism concealed between the horns.

Each watch is engraved with the words “Edition Limitée,” “Montblanc” and “Fait main à Villeret” (i.e. handmade in Villeret). The interior of the hinged cover is signed “Demetrio Cabiddu Maître Horloger,” thus identifying by name the technical director of the manufacture, who led the team that developed the Calibre 16.60. This bears the gold-filled engraving “Minerva Villeret” and can be admired by peering through the pane of sapphire crystal in the back of the watch when the cover is opened.

Naturally, the Montblanc emblem hasn´t been forgotten: the familiar six-pointed star, which symbolizes the six tongues of the glacier that covers Europe´s tallest mountain peak, has represented the utmost in European handcraftsmanship for many decades. The same stellar emblems, executed in genuine mother- of-pearl, grace the watches´ winding crowns.

These new collector´s items in Montblanc´s Villeret 1858 Collection are affixed to alligator- leather straps, each of which is equipped with a pronged buckle made of either 18K white gold, 18K red gold or 950 platinum, depending upon the material of which the model´s case is made.