Romain Gauthier Continuum Titanium Edition One Limited Edition

Romain Gauthier presents Continuum, a new timepiece that blends the manufacture’s creative freedom with a modern and youthful design.

This new creation from the brand’s Freedom collection features a comfortable and ergonomic case made entirely of Grade 5 titanium. Contemporary and uncluttered, it perfectly harmonizes with the movement.

Inspired by the finger bridges style, the design of the movement follows the watchmaking history of the Vallée de Joux, with a modern approach, reflecting Romain’s vision of the evolution of tradition.

Romain Gauthier Continuum Titanium Edition One Limited Edition

The dial, also of Grade 5 titanium, evokes a sense of continuity. The hour-minute hands are actually off-centred on the horizontal axis and the hour indices taper ever so slightly and are of varying lengths, while the 5-second intervals of the small seconds at 7 o’clock are also marked by tapering bright red lines of differing lengths.

The tapering, three-dimensional hands and index are made from 18k white gold and filled with Super-LumiNova for enhanced legibility, as are the numerals and applied hour markers, each of which has been produced from a single piece of white gold and features bevelled edges to give a punchy presence. The dial plate itself is made from natural titanium that has been sand-blasted and treated with a special coating that protects it against UV rays.

Romain Gauthier Continuum Titanium Edition One Limited Edition

Framing the dial is a titanium bezel whose eye-catching, geometric profile is unlike anything previously seen on a Romain Gauthier timepiece. The bezel is first machined into a round shape featuring a circular bevel before six straight sides are cut into it to create 6 facets. While these facets, which have been polished, reflect the light and bring the bezel to life, the rest of the bezel absorbs light thanks to its satin-finishing. The same facetted design is replicated around the sapphire crystal on the back of the watch.

In between the bezel and caseback, the one-piece caseband and lugs are geometrically sculpted, with satin and polished finishes as well as aesthetic grooves cleverly deployed to draw out the resulting shapes. Meanwhile, the rubber strap with titanium pin buckle follows the form of the angular lugs and rounded caseband so it appears as a continuous, organic extension of the case.

Romain Gauthier Continuum Titanium Edition One Limited Edition

And not for the first time in his work, Romain has placed the crown for winding and time-setting at 2 o’clock, freeing up space for wrist movement. A rubber ring around the crown makes it easier to manipulate, as well as adding a dash of colour to the timepiece.

Romain has endowed Continuum with a stop-seconds (also known as hacking seconds) mechanism, allowing the wearer to set the time exactly according to a reference time.

Like many stop-seconds mechanisms, a brake is placed on Continuum’s balance wheel when the crown is pulled out. But instead of using a straight or L-shaped balance stop lever to halt the balance, Romain has opted to employ a snail cam that performs a double function: It touches and stops the balance wheel when the crown is pulled out and, when the crown is pushed back in, the snail cam makes a turn, with its increasingly wide form giving the balance an impulse to help it start beating again.

Romain Gauthier Continuum Titanium Edition One Limited Edition

Those familiar with the brand will know Romain has used the snail cam’s unique shape in his past creations: It appears on the watchmaker’s acclaimed Logical One.

The themes of modernity and continuity carry over to the manual-winding, in-house movement. Finger bridges – historically typical of the Vallée de Joux, Romain’s birthplace – are reinterpreted here in a contemporary way. These bridges are horizontally configured and feature a ‘stepped’ shape – previously seen on some of Logical One’s bridges – that not only provides volume and depth, but also gives the sense that the bridges are literally flowing over the gears and balance wheel, with no clear end to them.

Romain Gauthier Continuum Titanium Edition One Limited Edition

Like the case components and the dial plate, the bridges are made from lightweight, natural Grade 5 titanium and they boast contrasting tones and textures thanks to a variety of finishes. The outer edges of each bridge all feature a double bevel, while the flat bridge surfaces and rubies are each framed by a raised border that has been straight-grained. Within these borders, the hand-finishing specialists at Manufacture Romain Gauthier have used a special hand-engraving technique to create a highly original dimpled texture. The movement mainplate beneath has been hand-frosted.

Romain Gauthier Continuum Titanium Edition One Limited Edition

Romain’s trademark gears and ratchet wheel featuring circular, bevelled spokes have been circular-grained, while the click, snail cam and screws with S-slot heads – another signature of Romain – have been highly polished. Finally, the lid of the mainspring barrel has been embellished with a superb snailing decoration.

Continuum’s regulator features the Romain Gauthier balance wheel with curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights, plus hand-assembled pallet lever that is triangular for maximum rigidity.

Romain Gauthier Continuum Titanium Edition One Limited Edition

For the launch of Continuum, Romain Gauthier presents the first edition in titanium. Continuum, Titanium Edition One, is a 28-piece limited edition, engraved “1 of 28” on the back of each movement.

Technical details

Model: Continuum – Titanium Edition One
Collection: Freedom collection

Edition
28-piece limited edition in natural Grade 5 titanium, engraved “1 of 28” on the back of the movement

Features and indications
Off-centred hours and minutes
Small seconds at 7 o’clock
Natural Grade 5 titanium case, dial and movement bridges and mainplate
In-house movement featuring stop-seconds mechanism
Sporty rubber strap

Dial and hands
Dial in sandblasted natural Grade 5 titanium with protective layer against UV rays
Off-centred hours and minutes
Small seconds at 7 o’clock with 5-second intervals marked by tapering bright red lines
Super-LumiNova-filled 18k white gold hands and applied numerals and hour markers

Movement and finishing
In-house, hand-wound movement
Dimensions: 32.10 mm x 5.50 mm
Power reserve: 60 hours
Number of jewels: 24
Number of components: 154
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Components made from: Titanium, steel, stainless steel and German silver
Finishing: Superlative decoration by hand
Treatment: Natural titanium bridges and rhodium-treated gears

Case
Material: Natural Grade 5 titanium
Dimensions: 41mm x 9.55mm, lugs to lugs: 49.5 mm
Water resistance: 50m/5atm/160ft
Crown for winding and time-setting featuring coloured rubber ring, at 2 o’clock
Watch supplied with two rubber crown rings, one in red, the other in grey
Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection coating, front and display back

Strap and buckle
Supplied with grey rubber strap with specially developed, satin-finished and polished natural Grade 5 titanium pin buckle
Total weight of the watch: 55g, including rubber strap and pin buckle

Retail price
CHF 37,000 without taxes

Romain Gauthier for Only Watch

For the 9th Only Watch auction, independent Swiss watch manufacture Romain Gauthier has created a unique piece from his upcoming calibre. Dedicated for Only Watch 2021, this is the first and only unique piece in titanium of this new movement.

Romain Gauthier for Only Watch

A fusion between Haute-Horlogerie and modernity, this unique timepiece from the manufacture based at Le Sentier, Switzerland, will be auctioned in collaboration with Christie’s on 6 November 2021, at 2pm (Geneva time), at the Four Seasons Hôtel des Bergues. The profits of this sale will be donated to the Monegasque Association against Myopathies.

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Limited Edition

Celebrating its 15th anniversary, Le Sentier based independent Swiss watch manufacturer Romain Gauthier has created the Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette watch collection.

This special edition from the prestigious Insight Micro-Rotor line is equipped with a stunning, skeletonised, in-house movement featuring superlatively hand-finished mainplate and bridges in ultra-light, natural titanium.

By opening up and stripping down his high-end, time-only automatic calibre, Romain has created a truly contemporary skeleton watch that is a technical and artistic tour de force. Not only do the skeletonised, ultra-light natural titanium bridges and mainplate help to reveal the mesmerising mechanics of the in-house movement, they also provide the perfect platform for the Romain Gauthier anglage specialists to demonstrate their immense skills.

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Manufacture-Only Carbonium® Edition
Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Manufacture-Only Carbonium® Edition

For each Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette movement features as many as 250 hours devoted to anglage alone, that’s to say the bevelling, softening, smoothing and polishing by hand of the bridges and mainplate, in an extraordinary demonstration of watchmaking artistry.

Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette is available in a 42mm case made out of Carbonium®, a cutting-edge carbon composite sourced from aerospace-grade fibres that is light, mechanically resistant and catches the eye with its dynamic veining. This is a customisable “Manufacture Only” edition available exclusively via Manufacture Romain Gauthier.

Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette is also available as customisable 39.5mm precious metal or titanium “Special Orders” through Romain Gauthier or its retail partners. To show the delightful possibilities, Romain has created two Special Order examples, one in 18k red gold and another in 950 platinum.

Skeletonising Insight Micro-Rotor

Insight Micro-Rotor is Romain Gauthier’s high-end, automatic timepiece of which the hour, minute and small second indications are powered by an in-house calibre boasting bidirectional micro-rotor made from 22k solid gold.

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Manufacture-Only Carbonium® Edition
Caseback of Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Manufacture-Only Carbonium® Edition

Visible dial side and through the display back, this oscillating weight turns smoothly between two bridges, each fitted with a friction-minimising, wear-resistant ruby bearing. In whichever direction the micro-rotor swings, it winds a serially operating double mainspring barrel offering 80 hours of power at full wind.

For Romain, the architecture of the arcing bridges, the position of the balance and micro-rotor, and the layout of the gears and barrels meant skeletonising this movement would really add something.

Making the mainplate and bridges in ultra-light, natural titanium

Romain’s design for opening up the Insight Micro-Rotor entailed skeletonising the mainplate and eight bridges that, until now, have been made in solid brass. At the thicknesses he envisaged, going as thin as 0.7mm, skeletonised brass bridges wouldn’t have necessarily held up.

Bridge on the left that has been bevelled by hand c.f. bridge on right that has been bevelled, softened, smoothed and polished by hand - Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Manufacture-Only Carbonium Edition
Bridge on the left that has been bevelled by hand c.f. bridge on right that has been bevelled, softened, smoothed and polished by hand – Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Manufacture-Only Carbonium Edition

Grade 5 titanium, however, offered the requisite strength and a lightness that could reduce the overall weight of the movement to 15.95g, the ability to look good naturally without the need for galvanic deposition, and the ability to be hand-polished. All the same, machining titanium has its challenges.

Off-the-scale hand-finishing drawing on 15 years of savoir-faire

If machining the titanium mainplate and bridges of Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette has its challenges, they pale in comparison to the challenges of hand-finishing them. For this skeletonised movement calls on a particular savoir-faire for which Romain and his team have garnered plenty of acclaims since the brand was founded in 2005: anglage, or the art of bevelling, softening, smoothing and polishing components by hand.

Put simply, anglage beautifies the component by creating a polished bevel between its surface and its flanks, one which catches the light and the eye. The angleur or angleuse creates a bevel using a steel file, then softens and smooths the material, first with degussit stone then using a series of buffs with emery-paper tip gradually going from a coarser to a finer grain, before polishing the bevel using the woody stem of the locally-growing gentian plant with diamond paste. It requires skill, experience and patience, and even relatively simply-shaped bridges made in brass can each take tens of hours to bevel, soften, smooth and polish by hand.

As you can imagine, the skeletonised mainplate and bridges of the Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette tested the talents of the Romain Gauthier anglage team on an entirely new level. One thing was the complexity of the shapes created by the skeletonisation, featuring no fewer than 156 sharp, internal angles that make it tricky for these artisans to access with their handheld tools, while limiting the scope of movement that their hands can make. Another thing was the way in which the titanium behaves.

Softening and smoothing a bridge from the Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette using a buff
Softening and smoothing a bridge from the Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette using a buff

Indeed, it takes one Romain Gauthier anglage specialist no fewer than 250 hours to bevel, soften, smooth and polish by hand the natural titanium mainplate and eight bridges needed for one Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette.

And that’s not even counting the time it takes Sylvie Devaux, Head of Anglage at Manufacture Romain Gauthier and her team to carry out other decorative techniques applied by hand to these components, such as polishing the screw and jewel countersinks using an ebony spindle, satin-finishing the flanks and hand-frosting the flat surfaces.

Sylvie Devaux, Head of Anglage at Manufacture Romain Gauthier
Sylvie Devaux, Head of Anglage at Manufacture Romain Gauthier

In fact, when you add up all the hours devoted to decorating the entire movement by hand or by hand-operated tools – including anglage, hand-frosting, polishing countersinks, circular graining, straight graining and snailing – it comes to over 350 hours of work!

In addition to hand-polished bevels, customers can opt for matte-finished bevels on their Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette, giving a slightly more understated look. The latter removes the need for the hand-polishing stage, but still involves the steps of bevelling, softening and smoothing by hand.

Watchmaker's assembly of the Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette
Watchmaker’s assembly of the Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette

Raising the bar for contemporary skeleton watches

While the superlatively hand-finished, skeletonised mainplate and bridges of the Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette are a spectacle in themselves, opening up the calibre uncovers a raft of fresh details.

Between 1 o’clock and 3 o’clock, the winding and time-setting mechanisms are more visible with a cluster of Romain Gauthier S-slot screws on show. We can now see one of the mainspring barrels, decorated by snailing, at 5 o’clock and, at 7 o’clock, circular-grained gears with circular, bevelled arms. The increased sense of depth created by this skeletonisation makes the balance wheel at 6 o’clock appear as though it is floating, while the snailed micro-rotor at 9 o’clock sways more dramatically than ever between the stripped-down bridges.

The spectacle continues through the display back where the micro-rotor can be seen engaging the visible train of gears, beginning with the reversing gear that gives the mechanism its bidirectionality. The highly-decorated barrels and ratchet wheels are now more exposed, while the sinuous shapes of the bridges are juxtaposed by the straight-grained, linear plaquettes adorning them.

Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Manufacture-Only Carbonium® Edition

For his first ever Manufacture-Only edition, Romain has chosen probably his sportiest looking watch to date: An Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette with case, crown, dial and buckle made out of Carbonium®.

Carbonium® is a high-tech, high-performance, carbon fibre composite invented and produced by French company Lavoisier Composites. It is made by employing a special compression-moulding process to ‘upcycle’ the epoxy resin and carbon fibres found in prepreg tapes sourced from the aerospace industry – fibres once earmarked to form part of an airliner wing, fin or fuselage.

To make each of the Carbonium® elements for this timepiece, Lavoisier Composites creates Carbonium® blocks which are then finely shaped on a 5-axis machining centre before being matte-finished for a slightly silky surface appearance. In accordance with Romain’s wishes, Lavoisier chose a long fibre length of 50mm, in their eyes the sweet spot between mouldability, aesthetics and mechanical properties.

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Manufacture-Only Carbonium® Edition

Indeed, the carbon fibre in Carbonium® is three times more rigid than titanium, yet twice as light. The fully assembled Carbonium® case for Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette weighs in at just 15.36g. So with the cased-up movement weighing 31.31g, it is fair to say this Carbonium® edition feels like a feather on the wrist.

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Manufacture-Only Carbonium® Edition

What is more, at 42mm in diameter, this case is larger than the Insight Micro-Rotor case in precious metal or titanium (39.5mm). That is because the rigid and fibre-rich nature of Carbonium® means localised increases in case dimensions needed to be made in order to machine it optimally. The extra couple of millimetres only serve to increase the assertive presence of the Carbonium® which bears a striking, organic-looking, veined pattern. As you turn the watch, the veins take it in turns to reflect the light, lending the case a real vivacity.

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Manufacture-Only Carbonium® Edition

With carbon fibre watches, often the movement is placed in a watertight cylinder within an unwaterproofed case. Romain was keen to avoid this ‘hack’ and instead wanted the skeletonised movement to be protected from humidity by the Carbonium® case itself. To that end, Lavoisier Composites performed a multi-step waterproofing process developed especially for this Romain Gauthier case, that saw resin injected into the micropores – invisible to the naked eye – on the inside of the case to prevent water from entering it.

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Manufacture-Only Carbonium® Edition

Customisable elements include the final finishing to the bridges and mainplate (hand-polished or matte-finished bevels); colour of the steel hands, dial accents and plaquette engravings; and colour of the natural rubber strap. The example here features hand-polished bevels, Pacific blue and white dial accents, and Pacific blue steel hands and natural rubber strap.

Precious metal or titanium “Special Orders” available through Manufacture Romain Gauthier or its retailers

Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette can also be requested as a “Special Order” in a 39.5mm precious metal or natural or black DLC Grade 5 titanium case, either directly via the brand or through Romain Gauthier retailers. Two Special Order examples are featured here.

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Limited Edition 18k Red Gold
Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Limited Edition 18k Red Gold

One is in 18k red gold featuring an oven-fired black enamel dial greyed by hand-frosting with white and gilded dial accents, complemented by 18k red gold hands; mainplate and bridges bevelled, softened and smoothed by hand, then matte-finished; and gilded micro-rotor, plaquettes and balance wheel. It is fitted with a grey, natural rubber strap with 18k red gold pin buckle.

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Limited Edition 18k Red Gold 1

The other example is in 950 platinum featuring an oven-fired, satin-blue enamel dial made in house by Romain’s wife Ana Gauthier, with white dial accents, accompanied by 18k white gold hands; bridges and mainplate bevelled, softened, smoothed and polished by hand; and rhodium-treated micro-rotor, plaquettes and balance wheel. It is accompanied by a navy-blue alligator leather strap with 18k white gold pin buckle.

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Limited Edition Platinum
Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Limited Edition in Platinum

Elements that collectors or retailers can customise include the material of the case; final finishing to the bridges and mainplate (hand-polished or matte-finished bevels); colour of the dial and dial accents; material and colour of the hands; colour of the plaquettes and their engravings; and the material and colour of the strap.

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Limited Edition

Technical details

Model: Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Manufacture-Only Carbonium® Edition

Features and indications

Off-centre hours, minutes and small seconds
In-house, automatic movement
Superlatively hand-finished, skeletonised mainplate and bridges in natural titanium
22k gold bidirectional micro-rotor
Double mainspring barrel in series giving 80-hour power reserve
42mm Carbonium® case
Available exclusively through Manufacture Romain Gauthier

Dial and hands

Carbonium® hour-minute dial and small seconds dial (monobloc)
Skeletonised hour and minute hands in matte-finished steel
Solid small seconds hand in matte-finished steel
Colour of hands and dial accents customisable

Movement and finishing

Dimensions: 32.1mm x 6.8mm
Power reserve: 80 hours
Number of jewels: 33
Number of components: 206
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Components in: 22k gold micro-rotor, titanium, steel, stainless steel, beryllium copper, brass and German silver
Choice of final finishing to the bridges and mainplate(hand-polished or matte-finished bevels)
Colour of plaquette engravings customisable

Case

Material: Carbonium®
Dimensions: 42mm x 12.9mm at highest point
Water resistance: 50m/5atm/170ft
Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection coating, front and display back
Carbonium® crown for manual winding and time-setting at 2 o’clock

Strap and buckle

Natural rubber strap, colour customisable
Carbonium® pin buckle

Model: Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette – Special Orders

Features and indications

Off-centre hours, minutes and small seconds
In-house, automatic movement
Superlatively hand-finished, skeletonised mainplate and bridges in natural titanium
22k gold bidirectional micro-rotor
Double mainspring barrel in series giving 80-hour power reserve
39.5mm precious metal or natural or black DLC Grade 5 titanium case
Available through Manufacture Romain Gauthier or its retailers

Dial and hands

Oven-fired enamel dial
Skeletonised hour and minute hands
Solid small seconds hand
Finishing of the dial, material of the hands, colour of the hands and dial accents customisable

Movement and finishing

Dimensions: 32.1mm x 6.8mm
Power reserve: 80 hours
Number of jewels: 33
Number of components: 206
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Components in: 22k gold micro-rotor, titanium, steel, stainless steel, beryllium copper, brass and German silver
Choice of final finishing to the bridges and mainplate (hand-polished or matte-finished bevels)
Colour of plaquettes and plaquette engravings customisable

Case

Material: 18k red gold, 18k white gold, 950 platinum or natural or black DLC Grade 5 titanium
Dimensions: 39.5mm x 12.9mm at highest point
Water resistance: 50m/5atm/170ft
Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection coating, front and display back
Crown for manual winding and time-setting at 2 o’clock

Strap and buckle

Natural rubber strap or alligator leather strap hand-stitched in Switzerland, colour customisable
Pin or deployant buckle
Buckle in material to match case, except for platinum case which is accompanied by 18k white gold buckle

Romain Gauthier Logical One Byzantine, Unique Piece in Baguette-Set White Gold Case

Romain Gauthier’s Logical One features a revolutionary, friction-minimising ruby-link chain, together with snail cam and sapphire-lined mainspring barrel to offer nearly two days of constant force. This award winning timepiece is now available in a unique diamond set version.

Its beautifully hand-finished, multi-patented in-house movement can be appreciated dial side and through the display back, and is wound using an ergonomic winding pusher on the side of the case. Hours, minutes, small seconds and a 46-hour power reserve indicator on the back make up the displays.

For this one-off creation, Romain Gauthier has made Logical One sparkle like never before by setting its 18k white gold case, bezel, lugs and buckle with 92 baguette-cut VVS diamonds totalling 7.27 ct.

Technical Specifications

Model: LOGICAL ONE BYZANTINE

Edition
Unique piece

Features and indications
Hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve indicator
18k white gold case, bezel, lugs and buckle set with 92 baguette-cut VVS diamonds totalling 7.27 ct
Oven-fired white enamel dial
46-hour power reserve indicator
Push-button winding
Innovative chain-and-fusee style constant-force system featuring snail cam and ruby-link chain

Dial and hands
Oven-fired white enamel dial complemented by flame-blued steel hands

Movement and finishing
Dimensions: 35.5mm x 10.5mm
Power reserve: 46 hours
Number of jewels: 63 in total, including 26 for the constant-force chain
Number of components: 359
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Movement components in: steel, stainless steel, beryllium copper, brass, titanium and German silver
4 patents: The specific composition and construction of the chain; the constant force system; the push-button winding system; and the high-efficiency profiles of the gear teeth
Finishing: Highest-level haute horlogerie finishing

Case
Material: 18k white gold
Dimensions: 43mm x 14.2mm
Water resistance: 30m/3atm/100ft
Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection coating, front and display back
Crown for time setting at 2 o’clock
Push button for winding at 9 o’clock

Strap and buckle
Black alligator leather strap hand-stitched in Switzerland with diamond-set 18k white gold pin buckle

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor White Gold Limited Editions

Featuring a dial-side combination of gilded mainplate and palladium-treated bridges framed by a white gold case, the Insight Micro-Rotor white gold limited editions see Romain Gauthier present his acclaimed time-only movement in perhaps its most collector-oriented guise to date.

Powering the hour-minute and small-second indications is a finely-finished, in-house automatic calibre that has been built from the ground up and which boasts a bidirectional micro-rotor made from 22k gold.

Visible dial side and through the display back, this oscillating weight turns smoothly between two bridges, each fitted with a friction-minimising, wear-resistant ruby bearing. In whichever direction the micro-rotor swings, it winds a serially operating double mainspring barrel offering 80 hours of power at full wind.

Sweeping around the centre of the dial are the small seconds surrounded by the hour-minute subdial at 12 o’clock, beating balance at 6 o’clock and, at 9 o’clock, the swaying micro-rotor, framed within a circular cut-out in the mainplate. The mainplate has been hand-frosted then treated with 4.5N rose gold, and it is this golden tone and matte finishing that make the straight-grained, palladium-treated bridges visually pop.

The observer is treated to more views of the movement through the display back. Here, the micro-rotor continues to steal the show as it sets the visible train of gears in motion, starting with the reversing gear that gives the mechanism its bidirectionality.

Like the mainplate, the bridges on the back of the movement are 4.5N rose gold-treated and decorated with hand-frosting and hand-made, hand-polished bevels and jewel countersinks. These bridges are fixed in place using in-house screws that bear an aesthetic S-slot.

The gilded hue and frosted finish of the bridges contrast neatly with the rhodium-treated elements next to them: straight-grained, linear plaquettes; circular-grained gears and ratchets featuring bevelled, circular spokes; and the mainspring barrels of which the lids have been decorated with snailing.

Meanwhile, the case’s 39.5mm diameter makes for a very wearable timepiece. Other design details of the case include a lip in the caseband that flares out to join with the bezel; the crown positioned at 2 o’clock to free up space for wrist movement; and the bombé sapphire crystal which rises so that its highest point is over the hour-minute display, the de facto centre of the dial.

Insight Micro-Rotor white gold is available in three 10-piece limited editions: with oven fired white enamel dial, oven-fired black enamel dial and oven-fired blue enamel dial.

Highlights

Highly visible, in-house movement
Developed, produced, decorated, assembled and regulated at Manufacture Romain Gauthier in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland, Insight Micro-Rotor’smovement has been designed to be highly visible so the observer can acquire an immediate appreciation of the mesmerising mechanics and immaculate hand-finishing, hence the moniker “Insight”.

Bidirectional micro-rotor
The bidirectionality of the micro-rotor is accomplished via a reversing gear. The axis of this gear glides side to side, guided by an aperture cut within two arc-shaped steel plates that have been black-polished to enhance the gear’s rotation and lateral movement. When the micro-rotor changes direction, it drives the toothing of the reversing gear in the opposite direction, making the reversing gear slide this way too.

Considered construction
Given the relative weight of the micro-rotor, Romain Gauthier has chosen to sandwich it between two bridges for superior stability, rather than designing a ‘flying’ rotor supported by just one bridge from beneath. Both ends of the micro-rotor axis turn in a ruby-lined pivot hole. The rubies have a high wear resistance and low coefficient of friction helping to create an inaudible, fluid rotation of the micro-rotor compared to, say, metal ball-bearings, which can entail wear and noise.

Power and precision
The two mainspring barrels offer 80 hours of energy when fully wound. The barrels are in series for more constant power to the regulator that features the Romain Gauthier balance wheel featuring curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights, as well as a hand-assembled pallet lever that is triangular for more rigidity.

Superlative hand-decoration
Last but not least, the superlative movement decoration includes hand-made and hand-polished bevels, hand-frosting, circular-graining, straight-graining and snailing, in addition to hand-made and hand-polished jewel countersinks.

Technical details

Edition
18k white gold case with 4.5N rose gold, palladium and rhodium treated movement
3 x 10-piece limited editions:

– 10 pieces with oven-fired white enamel dial on 18k gold base, complemented by flame-blued steel hands
– 10 pieces with oven-fired black enamel dial on 18k gold base, complemented by 18k white gold hands
– 10 pieces with oven-fired blue enamel dial on 18k gold base, complemented by 18k white gold hands

Features and indications
Off-centre hours, minutes and small seconds
In-house, automatic movement featuring 22k gold bidirectional micro-rotor
Double mainspring barrel in series for generous 80-hour power reserve

Dial and hands
Oven-fired enamel dial on 18k gold dial base, with 18k gold or flame-blued steel hands

Movement and finishing
Dimensions: 32.1mm x 6.8mm
Power reserve: 80 hours
Number of jewels: 33
Number of components: 206
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Components in: 22k gold micro-rotor, steel, stainless steel, beryllium copper, brass and German silver
Finishing: Highest-level haute horlogerie hand-finishing

Case
Material: 18k white gold
Dimensions: 39.5mm x 12.9mm at highest point
Water resistance: 50m/5atm/170ft
Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection coating, front and display back
Crown for winding and time-setting at 2 o’clock

Strap and buckle
Brown alligator leather strap hand-stitched in Switzerland with white gold pin buckle. Deployant buckle available upon request.

Romain Gauthier Prestige HMS Stainless Steel Limited Edition with Henbury Meteorite Dial

Prestige HMS Stainless Steel – Romain Gauthier’s first series watch in this material – features a stunning dial crafted from ultra rare Henbury meteorite boasting exceptionally coarse intersecting bands of nickel-iron crystal that spectacularly shimmer as the wearer turns the watch.

Powering the hour, minute and second indications is the innovatively engineered, superlatively hand-finished in-house Calibre 2206 HMS, on full show through the display back and wound using an ingenious large-diameter crown configured ‘flat’ on the caseback. Prestige HMS Stainless Steel is a 10-piece limited edition.

The meteorite used to make the dial is an octahedrite – an iron meteorite – that was discovered in 1931 at the Henbury crater field in the Northern Territory of Australia, one of the country’s best known meteorite impact sites.

The meteorite looks like a fairly ordinary chunk of grey metal until it is subjected to a nitric acid treatment that reveals intersecting bands of nickel-iron crystal, known as Widmanstätten patterns or Thomson structures. These structures formed during a long period of cooling within the parent asteroid.

To make the dial, a combination of three-axe machining centre and electrical discharge machining is used to a create a disc of the meteorite that is 33mm in diameter and 0.8mm thick. An anti-corrosion treatment is applied to ensure its appearance will not deteriorate over time.

Apart from the piece used here, the only other known sample of this Henbury meteorite is housed in the South Australian Museum of minerals, meteorites and rocks in Adelaide.

Indeed, this particular meteorite specimen is extremely rare and it is remarkable for the coarseness of its nickel-iron crystal bands, also called lamellae, producing a really eye-catching Widmanstätten pattern. As the angle at which the observer looks at the dial changes, the many lamellae shimmer, lending the dial a real vivacity.

The HMS of Prestige HMS stands for hours, minutes and seconds. Hours and minutes are displayed in the large subdial at 12 o’clock, with small seconds at 5 o’clock. This 5 o’clock position makes for an easy reading of time: Once the wearer reads the hour-minute subdial, their eye is then naturally drawn to the seconds display. The hands are all in blackened steel, with the hour-minute hands Super-LumiNova-filled to stand out against the shimmering meteorite backdrop, while the white gold applique hour markers also feature this lume for greater legibility at night.

Given the ferrous content of the meteorite dial, Romain thought it made perfect sense to pair the dial with a case also made from a ferrous substance – stainless steel – the first time the watchmaker has created a series watch in this material.

The 43mm-diameter case is distinguished by pure, clean, unbroken lines around its full perimeter. It is the absence of a ‘normal’ crown protruding at 3 o’clock that signals something special might be going on around the back of the watch.

Indeed, Prestige HMS is wound using a ‘flat’ crown on the caseback. This increases winding efficiency because, unlike a traditional caseband crown, energy need not be transmitted through 90°. The large diameter and undulating profile of the crown enable effortless winding, even while on the wrist. The crown is pulled out for time-setting.

The crown system features a tiny ceramic ball and rubber spring. This combination handles the radial and axial forces exerted during winding and time-setting better than a conventional crown spring would, while the ceramic used for the ball is resistant to wear and reduces friction for a smooth functioning. Two o-ring seals – one of which is oversized –provide the necessary waterproofing and dust protection, especially when the crown is pulled out to set the time.

Contrasting finishes have been applied to enhance the stainless steel case: The bezel and caseband are sumptuously polished, while the caseback, crown and front and back of the lugs bear a subtle sheen, having been satin finished.

Turning over the watch, it is not just the caseback crown that we see, but also the Calibre 2206 HMS on show through the display back. This movement – boasting a 60-hour power reserve – was developed, produced, decorated, assembled and regulated at Manufacture Romain Gauthier in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland. Virtually every component bears Romain’s distinctive touch.

The movement adheres to the watchmaking tradition of Romain’s native Vallée de Joux by mainly having one mobile for each bridge (a mobile being a gear on a pinion or shaft).These finger bridges feature polished, rounded bevels that have been meticulously created by hand, as well as hand-chamfered and hand-polished jewel countersinks.

The bridges and mainplate are black NAC-treated, but the straight-graining on the bridges makes them stand out against the hand-frosted mainplate, while the black NAC sets off the rhodium-treated, circular-grained gears. The gear recesses and backs of the bridges are spotted, while there is snailing on both sides of the mainspring barrel. In total, as many as 60 hours have been devoted to hand-decorating the movement, even those components that are not visible.

The movement architecture is such that the observer can even see through the components to glimpse the disc of meteorite forming the dial.

Bespoke balance wheel and triangular pallet lever: The regulator features the Romain Gauthier balance wheel with curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights, plus hand-assembled pallet lever that is triangular for maximum rigidity.

Gears with circular spokes and high-efficiency teeth: The gears possess circular spokes that provide elegance and strength, while the patented, high-efficiency profiles of the gear teeth are designed for optimal contact.

S-slot screw heads: The signature screw heads bear an S-slot that not only is aesthetic, but also enables more torque to be applied during movement assembly.

Technical details

Model: PRESTIGE HMS STAINLESS STEEL

Edition
Stainless steel case featuring dial made from rare Henbury meteorite – 10-piece limited edition

Features and indications
Hours, minutes and seconds
Entire dial made from rare Henbury octahedrite meteorite
Stainless steel case
Flat crown on caseback for ergonomic winding
Finely hand-finished, in-house movement visible through display back

Dial and hands
Off-centre hour-minute subdial at 12 o’clock
Small seconds at 5 o’clock
Super-LumiNova-filled hour and minute hands in blackened steel
Small second hand in blackened steel
Super-LumiNova-filled white gold applique hour markers

Meteorite details
Discovered at: Henbury Meteorites Conservation Reserve, Northern Territory, Australia
Year of discovery: 1931
Classification: Octahedrite

Movement and finishing
In-house movement Calibre 2206 HMS
Dimensions: 34mm x 5.5mm
Power reserve: 60 hours
Number of jewels: 22
Number of components: 128
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Finishing: Highest-level haute horlogerie hand-finishing
Treatment: Black NAC-treated bridges and rhodium-treated gears

Case
Material: Stainless steel
Dimensions: 43mm x 12.1mm
Water resistance: 10m/1atm/30ft
Flat crown on caseback for ergonomic winding, pulled out for time-setting
Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection coating, front and display back

Strap and buckle
Black alligator leather with satin-finished stainless steel pin buckle

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Lady Opal

With Insight Micro-Rotor Lady Opal, Romain Gauthier has created a luxury ladies’ watch that sees colour, sparkle and sublime craftsmanship spectacularly come together.

The hour-minute subdial, small seconds and mainplate cover are made out of semi-transparent Australian crystal opal that has been skilfully finished by hand. This gemstone exhibits flashes of pink, green, purple and turquoise in a majestic play of colour.

Powering the indications is an in-house, automatic calibre that boasts a 22k gold bidirectional micro-rotor, the front of which is snow set with brilliant-cut diamonds of varying sizes.

The scintillating micro-rotor is framed by a cut-out in the opal-adorned mainplate. It turns smoothly and inaudibly between two bridges, each fitted with a friction-minimising, wear-resistant ruby bearing. In whichever direction the micro-rotor sways, it winds a serially operating double mainspring barrel offering 80 hours of power at full wind.

The glorious opal subdials and mainplate cover set off the red gold hands, gilded balance wheel and red gold treated plaquette and bridges that are hand-bevelled and straight-grained, while the arcs of the bridges neatly marry with the inside curve of the red gold case. The case’s 39.5mm diameter, combined with the white natural rubber strap that mirrors the contours of the lugs, provides a snug fit on slender wrists.

Other design details of the case include a lip in the caseband that flares out to join with the bezel; the crown positioned at 2 o’clock to free up space for wrist movement; and the bombé sapphire crystal which rises so that its highest point is over the hour-minute display, the de facto centre of the dial.

More of the movement can be admired through the display back. Here, the micro-rotor can be seen engaging the visible train of gears, beginning with the reversing gear that gives the mechanism its bidirectionality. The gears and ratchet wheels are notable for their circular spokes which have been bevelled.

Finally, the golden bridges – which feature hand-made, hand-polished bevels and jewel countersinks – are secured in place using Romain Gauthier’s in-house screws with S-slot heads. The sweeping shapes of the bridges contrast with the linearity of the straight-grained finishing and four plaquettes.

Insight Micro-Rotor Lady Opal is a five-piece limited edition in 18k red gold.

Australian Crystal Opal Dial and Mainplate Cover

The semi-transparent crystal opal used to make the dial and mainplate cover of Insight Micro-Rotor Lady Opal is from the town of Coober Pedy in South Australia, often described as the opal capital of the world. It was collected at source by a connoisseur of rare gemstone almost half a century ago.

This precious opal is regarded as the finest thanks to its highly stable internal structure that makes it diffract light, resulting in a resplendent play of colour. Its compactness and low porosity mean its vibrant appearance will remain constant over time.

Once the raw opal is carefully selected, a wire saw is used to remove an ultra thin slice which is then fixed onto a heated baseplate with tree resin, after which the outline of the hour-minute subdial, small seconds and mainplate cover are cut using a three-axe machining centre.

The one-piece mainplate cover bears a complex shape with a figure of eight cut in the centre to accommodate the small seconds and balance wheel.

The lapidary then fixes the slice onto a brass block with resinbefore rubbing it by hand on a glass board covered with a mixture of diamond powder and waterin order to make the opal the right thickness – 0.28mm for the subdials and 0.35mm for the mainplate cover.

In fact, the lapidary leaves 0.06mm more than is needed so he has enough opal to work with for the polishing stage which consists of pressing the opal gently against a turntable covered with fine felt and white cerium oxide solution.

Given that each opal dial and mainplate cover is different, and each arrangement of the diamonds decorating the micro-rotor is different, no two Insight Micro-Rotor Lady Opals look the same.

In-House Automatic Movement

Developed, produced, decorated, assembled and regulated at Manufacture Romain Gauthier in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland, Insight Micro-Rotor Lady Opal’s movement has been designed to be highly visible so the observer can acquire an immediate appreciation of the mesmerising mechanics and immaculate hand-finishing, hence the moniker “Insight”.

The bidirectionality of the micro-rotor is accomplished via a reversing gear. The axis of this gear glides side to side, guided by an aperture cut within two arc-shaped steel plates that have been black-polished to enhance the gear’s rotation and lateral movement. When the micro-rotor changes direction, it drives the toothing of the reversing gear in the opposite direction, making the reversing gear slide this way too.

Given the relative weight of the micro-rotor, Romain Gauthier has chosen to sandwich it between two bridges for superior stability, rather than designing a ‘flying’ rotor supported by just one bridge from beneath.

Both ends of the micro-rotor axis turn in a ruby-lined pivot hole. The rubies have a high wear resistance and low coefficient of friction helping to create a silent, fluid rotation of the micro-rotor compared to, say, metal ball-bearings, which can entail wear and noise.

The two mainspring barrels offer 80 hours of energy when fully wound. The barrels are in series for more constant power to the regulator that features the Romain Gauthier balance wheel featuring curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights, as well as a hand-assembled pallet lever that is triangular for more rigidity.

Last but not least, the superlative movement decoration includes hand-made and hand-polished bevels, hand-frosting, circular-graining, straight-graining and snailing, in addition to hand-made and hand-polished jewel countersinks.

Technical details

Model: Insight Micro-Rotor Lady Opal

Edition
18k red gold featuring Australian crystal opal dial and mainplate cover – five-piece limited edition

Features and indications
Off-centre hours and minutes, central small seconds
Australian crystal opal dial and mainplate cover
18k red gold hands
In-house, automatic movement featuring 22k gold bidirectional micro-rotor
Micro-rotor snow set with approx. 45 brilliant, round VVS to VS diamonds of varying sizes (0.1 carat)
Double mainspring barrel in series for generous 80-hour power reserve

Movement and finishing
Dimensions: 32.1mm x 6.8mm
Power reserve: 80 hours
Number of jewels: 33
Number of components: 206
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Components in: 22k gold micro-rotor, steel, stainless steel, beryllium copper, brass and German silver
Finishing: Highest-level haute horlogerie hand-finishing
Treatment: 5N red-gold treated bridges

Case
Dimensions: 39.5mm x 12.9mm at highest point
Water resistance: 50m/5atm/170ft
Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection coating, front and display back
Crown for winding and time-setting at 2 o’clock

Strap and buckle
White strap in natural rubber with red gold pin buckle

Romain Gauthier

Founded in 2005, Romain Gauthier is a high-end watch brand based in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland, led by its passionate founder Romain Gauthier.

Gauthier marries the savoir-faire that he has developed living, studying and working in his native Vallée de Joux – the heart of fine Swiss watchmaking – with a no-compromise approach to haute horlogerie to create exceptional timepieces that have been hailed for their eye-catching designs, innovative micro-mechanics and extremely high level of hand-finishing.

The exclusivity of Romain Gauthier’s Swiss-made timepieces is ensured by the very small numbers in which they are created – about 60 pieces per year.

The Romain Gauthier collections

Heritage collection: Romain Gauthier channels his profound grasp of traditional Swiss watchmaking savoir-faire into creating majestic timepieces for the discerning connoisseur. The bedrock on which Romain Gauthier has built his company, these elegant creations boast intricately engineered, exceptionally finished in-house movements in sumptuous cases crafted from the noble metals of gold and platinum.

Freedom collection: Expressing a daring vision of high-end watchmaking, Romain Gauthier combines high-tech materials and cutting-edge finishes to create timepieces exuding an edgy charisma. Behind the contemporary aesthetics still lies traditional haute horlogerie. Technical in nature, casual in style, free in spirit, these creations speak to those marching to the beat of their own drum.

Exception collection: Romain Gauthier’s passion for art and culture shines through with these exquisite masterpieces showcasing inspired craftsmanship performed by the most talented artisans. Lit up by virtuoso displays of decorative arts, these dazzling creations capture the aesthete’s admiring attention. Showing the time may be secondary, but powering the indications are beautifully hand-finished mechanics that are a further feast for the eyes.

Manufacture Romain Gauthier

Romain Gauthier’s ability to create exquisite timepieces is in large part thanks to his watchmaking production facility, or manufacture, that he has steadily built up since founding his eponymous brand in 2005. Today, Manufacture Romain Gauthier occupies 700m2 (8,000 sqft) premises in Le Sentier, Switzerland and features technical, logistic and production departments as well as watchmaking and decoration ateliers.

This fully-equipped manufacture blends time-honoured watchmaking tools with cutting-edge production methods, including a state-of-the-art CNC machine park. It allows Romain Gauthier to design, produce, decorate, assemble, regulate and test in house all movements for the brand’s timepieces.

The tools and machinery of the manufacture would mean little without the talented team of professionals that Romain Gauthier has put together. Each member brings their unique savoir-faire to the creative process and each one leaves their own signature on the finished timepiece.

Lathe operators machine the complex components that Romain has designed, working classic and modern materials with consummate skill. Experts display their grasp of hardening, polishing and tempering as well as burnishing to makepieces shiny, strong and durable.

The artisans of the anglage atelier devote hours to filing the angles between the flanks and surfaces of bridges into eye-catching bevels that are then hand-polished using gentian wood from the local Risoud forest. Decoration specialists embellish movements with artful finishes like spotting, snailing, circular graining and Geneva waves.And in keeping with tradition, each movement is painstakingly assembled and regulated from A to Z by the same watchmaker. Indeed, Romain Gauthier watchmakers master the full gamut of horological skills, including counting the hairspring, flame-bluing the hands and hand-assembling the pallet lever.

Throughout, stringent quality control checks are performed during and between operations, and Romain himself inspects each finished timepiece under magnification. While this savoir-faire ensures that quality is uncompromised and precision is impressive, it also imbues Romain Gauthier timepieces with a rare beauty and unique soul.

Biography

Romain Gauthier was born in 1975 in Le Sentier, in the picturesque Vallée de Joux, at the heart of fine Swiss watchmaking. It was there that he developed a passion for traditional haute horlogerie blended with clean, contemporary design and innovative micro-engineering. After studying precision-mechanics, Romain gained a diploma as a constructor of precision machinery. In 1997, he started his first job as machine programmer/operator and over the following years, Romain managed and grew the department into one of the best – equipped and most efficient production facilities in Europe.

Determined to create his own watch brand, Romain completed an MBA in 2002. His final thesis – passed with distinction – was the business plan for Montres Romain Gauthier. He then began work on the timepieces themselves. In 2005, after three years of working in secret, Romain launched his brand in Baselworld 2007 with the Prestige HM, featuring his own in-house manufacture movement. The Prestige HMS followed in 2012 and Logical One in 2013.

In 2013, Romain Gauthier received great acclaim for launching‘Logical one’ featuring a multi-patented flat chain-and-fusee style constant force system with ruby chain links, ergonomic push button winding system, dial-side visible balance, mainspring barrel with sapphire inserts, and power reserve indicator.

This piece, a consummate demonstration of Romain Gauthier’s ability to respect tradition while striving to innovate, was awarded the prize for Best Men’s Complications Watch at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève later that year.

In 2014, Romain Gauthier launched ‘Logical one Secret’ which took the union of art and horology to a new level. It features a fully integrated cover serving as a canvas for arts and crafts such as gem-setting, miniature painting, engraving and enamelling. Pressing a discreet case band pusher lifts the cover to reveal the intricate complexity of Logical one’s award-winning constant force movement.

Equipped with advanced machines and automatic lathes and employing a highly skilled workforce, Romain Gauthier’s headquarters in Le Sentier is a manufacture in the truest sense of the word. Virtually every high-quality horological component can be produced there. It also allows every Romain Gauthier timepiece to be developed, produced, assembled and regulated entirely in house.

Official website: http://www.montres-rg.com

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Natural Titanium & Black Titanium

Romain Gauthier presents Natural Titanium and Black Titanium versions of the Insight Micro-Rotor watch featuring a casually-styled, modestly-sized titanium case and a finely-finished, in-house automatic movement with 22k gold bidirectional micro-rotor.

Sweeping around the centre of the dial are small seconds surrounded by an hour-minute subdial at 12 o’clock, beating balance at 6 o’clock and, at 9 o’clock, the swaying micro-rotor, framed by a cut-out in the mainplate. This compact oscillating weight turns fluidly and noiselessly between two bridges, each fitted with a friction-minimising, wear-resistant ruby bearing. In whichever direction the micro-rotor swings, it winds a serially operating double mainspring barrel that, when fully wound, provides 80 hours of power.

There are more stunning views of the movement through the display back: The sinuous shapes of the hand-bevelled, hand-polished bridges – secured using Romain Gauthier’s signature S-slot screws – are juxtaposed by the linear plaquettes adorning them, while the gears and ratchets stand out for their circular arms that have been bevelled.

Part of these timepieces’ splendour lies in the contrasts created by the various finishes applied: Light and dark, polished and satin-finished, straight-grained and hand-frosted.

For Insight Micro-Rotor Natural Titanium, the caseband and bezel are polished, while the lugs and caseback are satin-finished. The black NAC-treated mainplate makes the palladium-treated bridges visually pop, with the straight-graining of the dial-side bridges counterpointed by the hand-frosting on the mainplate. The oven-fired enamel dial bears a sumptuous gloss.

For Insight Micro-Rotor Black Titanium, the bezel, lugs and caseback of the ADLC titanium case are satin-finished, with the caseband polished. Both the bridges and mainplate are black NAC-treated but the straight-graining on the bridges makes them stand out against the hand-frosted mainplate. The same hand-frosting technique has been used to give the oven-fired enamel dial an eye-catching matte finish.

Insight Micro-Rotor Natural Titanium and Black Titanium are both available in three 10-piece limited editions: with oven-fired white enamel dial, oven-fired black enamel dial and oven-fired blue enamel dial. Strap options include casual matte black alligator leather and supple black natural rubber.

Romain Gauthier has designed Insight Micro-Rotor’s movement to be highly visible so the viewer can gain an instant appreciation of the spectacular mechanics and fine finishing, giving rise to the name “Insight”.

The labour-intensive decoration includes hand-made and hand-polished bevels, snailing, straight-graining, circular-graining, hand-frosting as well as hand-made and hand-polished jewel countersinks. And it is this level of hand-finishing that helps to explain why Insight Micro-Rotor is one of the most expensive micro-rotor timepieces– if not the most expensive micro-rotor timepiece –in the world.

Insight Micro-Rotor’s movement was designed, developed, produced, decorated, assembled and regulated at Manufacture Romain Gauthier in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland.

The bi-directionality of the micro-rotor is achieved through a reversing gear. The axis of this gear glides side to side, guided by a curved aperture cut within two arc-shaped steel plates which are black-polished to facilitate the gear’s lateral movement and rotation. When the micro-rotor changes direction, it drives the toothing of the reversing gear in the opposite direction, making the reversing gear slide this way too.

Gauthier has designed the micro-rotor so that it turns between two bridges, each fitted with a ruby bearing, thus harnessing the watchmaking principle of avoiding metal against metal by putting metal against ruby. Rubies have a low coefficient of friction and high wear resistance, here helping to produce a smooth, inaudible rotation of the micro-rotor compared to, say, metal ball-bearings which can entail noise and wear.

Given the relative weight of the micro-rotor (4.3g/0.15oz), Gauthier has decided to eschew a ‘flying’ rotor supported by just one bridge from beneath and instead design the micro-rotor so it is sandwiched between two bridges, from above and from below, for superior stability.

The movement’s two mainspring barrels combine to offer 80 hours of energy at full wind. The barrels are in series for more constant power to the regulator that features the Romain Gauthier balance wheel with curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights plus hand-assembled pallet lever that is triangular for maximum rigidity.

Technical details
Model: Insight Micro-Rotor Natural Titanium and Black Titanium

Versions
Insight Micro-Rotor Natural Titanium– 3 x 10-piece limited editions
Natural Grade 5 titanium case, black NAC- and palladium-treated movement 
– 10 pieces with oven-fired white enamel dial on 18k gold base, flame-blued steel hands
– 10 pieces with oven-fired black enamel dial on 18k gold base, 18k white gold hands
– 10 pieces with oven-fired blue enamel dial on 18k gold base, 18k white gold hands

Insight Micro-Rotor Black Titanium– 3 x 10-piece limited editions
ADLC Grade 5 titanium case, black NAC-treated movement
– 10 pieces with matte, oven-fired white enamel dial on 18k gold base, flame-blued steel hands
– 10 pieces with matte, oven-fired black enamel dial on 18k gold base, 18k white gold hands
– 10 pieces with matte, oven-fired blue enamel dial on 18k gold base, 18k white gold hands

Features and indications
Off-centre hours, minutes and small seconds; in-house, bidirectional, automatic movement featuring 22k gold micro rotor and double mainspring barrel in series for generous 80-hour power reserve

Dial and hands
Oven-fired enamel dial on 18k gold dial base, with 18k gold hands or flame-blued hands, depending on which edition

Movement and finishing
Dimensions: 32.1mm x 6.8mm
Power reserve: 80 hours
Number of jewels: 33
Number of components: 206
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Components in: 22k gold micro-rotor, steel, stainless steel, beryllium copper, brass and German silver
Finishing: Highest-level haute horlogerie hand-finishing

Case
Dimensions: 39.5mm x 12.9mm at highest point
Water resistance: 50m/5atm/170ft
Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection coating, front and display back
Crown for winding and time-setting at 2 o’clock

Strap
Choice of matte black alligator leather or black natural rubber strap
Choice of pin buckle in natural titanium or ADLC titanium, or deployant buckle in natural titanium

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Lady

Romain Gauthier presents its first ladies’ watch, the Insight Micro-Rotor Lady, an exclusive mechanical timepiece in red-gold case housing a highly visible, intricately engineered, automatic movement featuring snow-set micro-rotor and its gently shimmering mother-of-pearl dial.

Insight Micro-Rotor Lady’s hour-minute subdial and small seconds are crafted from mother of pearl. The watch is powered by an in-house calibre with a bidirectional micro-rotor made from 22k gold. The front of this oscillating weight is spectacularly decorated with brilliant-cut diamonds of varying sizes.

Framed by a cut-out in the mainplate – also adorned with mother of pearl – the sparkling micro-rotor turns fluidly and noiselessly between two bridges, each fitted with a friction-minimising, wear-resistant ruby bearing. This micro-rotor efficiently winds a serially operating double mainspring barrel that, when fully wound, provides a generous 80 hours of power.

The mother-of-pearl subdials and mainplate cover superbly setting off the red gold hands, gilded balance wheel and red gold treated plaquette and bridges that are hand bevelled and straight-grained. The arcs of the sweeping bridges marry with the inner contours of the red gold case.

The 39.5mm diameter case ensures a comfortable fit on slim wrists. Impressive design details include a lip in the case band that flares out to meet the bezel; the crown placed at 2 o’clock to free up space for wrist movement; and the bombé sapphire crystal which gradually rises so its highest point is over the hour-minute display.

The movement details are also visible through the display back. Here the micro-rotor can be seen setting the visible train of gears in motion, starting with the reversing gear that lends the mechanism its bi-directionality. The gears and ratchets stand out for their circular arms that feature eye-catching bevels.

Meanwhile, the golden bridges are decorated with hand-made, hand polished bevels and jewel countersinks and are fixed in place using Romain Gauthier’s signature screws with aesthetic S-slot. The sinuosity of the bridges is nicely juxtaposed by the linearity of the straight-grained finishing and four plaquettes.

Insight Micro-Rotor Lady is available in two 10-piece limited editions in red gold: with Tahitian black mother-of-pearl dial and anthracite strap, and with Australian extra white mother-of-pearl dial with white strap.

Technical details
Model: Insight Micro-Rotor Lady

Editions
18k red gold featuring Tahitian black mother-of-pearl dial – 10-piece limited edition
18k red gold featuring Australian extra white mother-of-pearl dial – 10-piece limited edition

Features and indications
Off-centre hours and minutes,central small seconds
Mother-of-pearl dial and mainplate cover
18k red gold hands
In-house, bidirectional, automatic movement featuring 22k gold micro rotor
Micro-Rotor snow set with approx. 45 brilliant, round VVS to VS diamonds of varying sizes (0.1 carat)
Double mainspring barrel in series for generous 80-hour power reserve

Movement and finishing
Dimensions: 32.1mm x 6.8mm
Power reserve: 80 hours
Number of jewels: 33
Number of components: 206
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Components in: 22k gold micro rotor, steel, stainless steel, beryllium copper, brass and German silver
Finishing: Highest-level haute horlogeriehand-finishing
Treatment: 5N red-gold treated bridges

Case
Dimensions: 39.5mm x 12.9mm at highest point
Water resistance: 50m/5atm/170ft
Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection coating, front and display back
Crown for winding and time-setting at 2 o’clock

Strap
For black mother-of-pearl limited edition: Anthracite strap in natural rubber or satin with red gold pin buckle
For white mother-of-pearl limited edition: White strap in natural rubber or satin with red gold pin buckle

 

Romain Gauthier Logical One Black Titanium

This new version of Logical One by Romain Gauthier features a black ADLC titanium case and anthracite ADLC treated movement. It is available with an oven-fired white enamel dial complemented by flame-blued steel hands, or an oven-fired black enamel dial with red accents complemented by 18k white gold hands.

A paragon of fine Swiss watchmaking, Logical One is Romain Gauthier’s Grand Prix de Genève-winning creation that contains a revolutionary snail cam and friction-minimising ruby-link chain, plus sapphire-lined mainspring barrel, to offer nearly two days of constant force – the holy grail of precision watchmaking.

Its beautifully hand-decorated, in-house movement can be admired dial side and through the display back, and is wound using an ergonomic winding pusher integrated into the case-band. It features hours and minutes on an off-centre subdial, small seconds, and a 46-hour power reserve indicator on the back.

Technical details
Model: Logical One Black Titanium by Romain Gauthier

Edition
Black ADLC Grade 5 natural titanium case with anthracite ADLC treated movement

Features and indications
Hours, minutes, small seconds; 46-hour power reserve indicator; push-button winding; innovative chain-and-fusee style constant force system featuring snail cam and ruby-link chain

Dial and hands
Oven-fired white enamel dial with flame-blued steel hands
Oven-fired black enamel dial with red accentsand18k white gold hands

Movement and finishing
Dimensions: 35.5mm x 10.5mm
Power reserve: 46 hours
Number of jewels: 63 in total, including 26 for the constant-force chain
Number of components: 359
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Movement components in: Steel, stainless steel, beryllium copper, brass, titanium and German silver
Patents: 4
Finishing: Highest-level haute horlogerie finishing

Case
Case material: Black ADLC Grade 5 titanium
Dimensions: 43mm x 14.2mm
Water resistance: 30m/3atm/100ft
Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection coating, front and display back
Crown for time setting at 2 o’clock
Push button for winding at 9 o’clock

Strap and buckle
Matte black alligator leather strap with stitching (red or white) to match dial or dial accents, hand-stitched in Switzerland with titanium pin buckle

Romain Gauthier Logical One BTG

Romain Gauthier Logical One BTG boasts a black ADLC titanium case and anthracite ADLC treated mainplate. The darkness of these elements superbly sets off the ink blue hour-minute subdial and small seconds made from oven-fired enamel. The blue enamel is slightly translucent, allowing the 18k white gold dial plate beneath to occasionally flash into sight.

Equally, the sleek case and main platform a neat contrast to the 18k white gold pusher and crown, the balance bridge and escape wheel bridge in bright palladium-treated brass, and the upper ‘bar’ bridge for the constant force system in light-hued natural titanium.

This piece gets its name from itsblack titanium case and white gold crown and pusher. Like the blue enamel of the dial, the black ADLC (Amorphous Diamond-Like Carbon) on the case bears a subtle translucency. It not only looks great,but the ADLC also brings an extra hardness to the already hard-wearing titanium. The alligator leather strap is in casual matte black with light grey stitching.

A paragon of fine Swiss watchmaking, Logical One is Romain Gauthier’s Grand Prix de Genève-winning creation that contains a revolutionary snail cam and friction-minimising ruby-link chain, plus sapphire-lined mainspring barrel, to offer nearly two days of constant force – the holy grail of precision watchmaking.

Its beautifully hand-decorated, in-house movement can be admired dial side and through the display back, and is wound using an ergonomic winding pusher integrated into the caseband. It features hours and minutes on an off-centre subdial, small seconds, and a 46-hour power reserve indicator on the back.

Logical One BTG’s movement was conceived, developed, produced, decorated, assembled and regulated at Manufacture Romain Gauthier in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland. The spectacular decoration includes hand-created and hand-polished rounded bevels, hand-frosting, snailing, straight-graining, circular-graining as well as hand-polished jewel countersinks.

Logical One BTG is a 5-piece limited edition.

Technical details
Model: Logical One BTG by Romain Gauthier

Edition
ADLC titanium case with white gold pusher and crown featuring ADLC and palladium-treated movement – 5-piece limited edition

Features and indications
Hours, minutes, small seconds; 46-hour power reserve indicator; push-button winding; innovative chain-and-fusee style constant force system featuring snail cam and ruby-link chain

Dial and hands
Oven-fired blue enamel dial on an 18k white gold base complemented by 18k white gold hands and silvered numerals

Movement and finishing
Dimensions: 35.5mm x 10.5mm
Power reserve: 46 hours
Number of jewels: 63 in total, including 26 for the constant-force chain
Number of components: 359
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Movement components in: steel, stainless steel, beryllium copper, brass, titanium and German silver
Patents: 4
Finishing: Highest-level haute horlogerie finishing

Case
Case material: Black ADLC-treated Grade 5 titanium
Dimensions: 43mm x 14.2mm
Water resistance: 30m/3atm/100ft
Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection coating, front and display back
18k white gold crown for time setting at 2 o’clock
18k white gold crown push button for winding at 9 o’clock

Strap and buckle
Matte black alligator leather strap with light grey stitching, hand-stitched in Switzerland with 18k white gold pin buckle

Romain Gauthier Prestige HMS Black Titanium

Prestige HMS Black Titanium features a black ADLC Grade 5 titanium case with an in-house, NAC-treated movement that has been decorated with Geneva waves. It is available with a choice of red dial accents and red strap stitching or white dial accents and white strap stitching.

The dial of Prestige HMS is a harmonious composition of circles and arcs. Hours and minutes are clearly legible in the large sub-dial at 12 o’clock engraved with the R.Gauthier logo, while cut-outs in the main dial reveal the intricate workings of the precision micro-mechanics of the in-house movement beneath.

The visible, oscillating balance wheel at 7 o’clock and open seconds wheel at 5 o’clock add vibrancy and animation to an already rich visual experience of mechanics, texture, colour and composition.

The graceful 41mm diameter case is distinguished by pure, clean, unbroken lines around its full perimeter. However, it is the absence of a normal crown that reveals just how remarkable the movement is.

Placing the crown flat on the caseback increases winding efficiency because energy does not need to be transmitted through 90°. It also reduces wear and stress on components. The large diameter of the crown also enables the watch to be easily wound, even while on the wrist.

While the dial side treats the observer to a partial view of the movement – which was entirely conceived, developed, designed, produced, assembled and regulated by Manufacture Romain Gauthier – it is through the display back that this in-house calibre is fully showcased, with virtually every component bearing Romain Gauthier’s distinctive touch.

The Vallée de Joux style finger bridges catch both the light and the eye with their seductive polished curves. The bespoke gear wheels feature circular arms providing both elegance and strength; the polished screw heads bear a unique s-slot, enabling more torque to be applied during assembly.

With its distinctive curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights, the balance wheel has been designed and manufactured by Romain Gauthier. The regulator even features a high-efficiency triangular pallet lever, another Romain Gauthier invention.

The large movement bridge at the top has a cut-out revealing some of the mainspring barrel and ratchet click. The cut-out features highly polished, sharp internal bevelled angles – this anglage is the hallmark of superlative handfinishing.

Technical details
Model: Prestige HMS Black Titanium By Romain Gauthier

Edition
Black ADLC Grade 5 titanium case with NAC-treated movement

Features and indications
Off-centre hours and minutes subdial at 12 o’clock
Sectorial seconds at 5 o’clock
Dial open 3 o’clock to 9 o’clock to reveal balance wheel and seconds gear
Multi-level dial
Hand-finished, in-house movement visible through display back
Flat crown on caseback for ergonomic winding

Dial and hands
Off centre hour-minutes subdial engraved with the R.Gauthier logo at 12 o’clock
Sectorial seconds at 5 o’clock
Super-LumiNova filled hour and minute hands

Movement and finishing
In-house manufacture movement Calibre 2206 HMS
Power reserve: 60 hours
Number of jewels: 22
Number of components: 128
Balance frequency: 28,800 bph / 4Hz
Fine handfinishing including hand-polished screws and jewel countersinks, hand-polished bevels and bridges and Geneva waves

Case
Dimensions: 43mm x 12.1mm
Water resistance: 10m/1atm/30ft
Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection coating, front and display back

Strap and buckle
Matte black alligator leather with stitching to match dial accents, hand-stitched in Switzerland with titanium pin buckle

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Red Gold and Platinum Limited Editions

Romain Gauthier’s Insight Micro-Rotor series is a high-end automatic timepiece that offers the best of all worlds: Elegance and efficiency, precision and power, simplicity and splendour.

Insight Micro-Rotor’s hour, minute and small second indications are powered by a beautifully hand-finished, in-house caliber built from the ground up and boasting bidirectional micro-rotor made from22k solid gold. This compact oscillating weight –visible dial side and through the display back – turns fluidly and noiselessly between two bridges, each fitted with a friction- minimizing, wear-resistant ruby bearing.

However subtly and in whichever direction the micro-rotor swings, it is working away, winding a double mainspring barrel that, when fully wound, offers a generous 80 hours of power. The two barrels are in series for more constant power to the regulator, meaning the movement’s rate holds up whatever the state of wind.

Insight Micro-Rotor’s open dial is a harmonious picture of details, depth and mesmerizing animation. Sweeping around the centre are the small seconds surrounded by the hour-minute subdial at 12 o’clock, beating balance at 6 o’clock and, at 9 o’clock, the swaying micro-rotor, framed within a remarkable void created by a circular cut-out in the mainplate. A plaquette with Romain Gauthier logo provides a smart visual counterpoint to the micro-rotor, while the curvaceous, hand-bevelled bridges evenly spaced around the periphery glint in the light, their arcs marrying with the inner contours of the case.

In a neat design touch, the bombé sapphire crystal covering the dial gradually rises towards 12 o’clock before steeply dropping again. And the case’s modest 39.5mm diameter ensures that Insight Micro-Rotor sits very comfortably, even on slimmer wrists.

The observer is treated to more views of the movement through the display back. Here the micro-rotor continues to steal the show as it sets the visible train of gears in motion, starting with the reversing gear that lends the mechanism its bidirectionality. The gears and ratchets stand out for their circular arms that feature eye-catching bevels. Meanwhile, the bridges are decorated with hand-made, hand polished bevels and jewel countersinks and are fixed in place using Romain Gauthier’s signature screws with aesthetic S-slot. The sinuosity of the bridges is superbly counterpoised by the four linear plaquettes adorning them.

Romain Gauthier has designed Insight Micro-Rotor’s movement to be highly visible so the viewer can gain an instant appreciation of the spectacular mechanics and fine finishing, giving rise to the name “Insight”.

Insight Micro-Rotor red gold and Insight Micro-Rotor platinum are both available in three 10-piece limited editions: with oven-fired white enamel dial, oven-fired black enamel dial and oven-fired blue enamel dial.

Romain Gauthier’s first in-house calibres feature ‘flat’ caseback crown (Prestige HM and Prestige HMS) and caseband winding pusher (Logical One),thoroughly original mechanisms that increase winding efficiency and provide a certain aesthetic and tactility. Designing and building a movement that boasts a bidirectional micro-rotor is in keeping with Gauthier’s haute horlogerie ethos of developing daring, in-house movements from scratch, as well as with his quest to create atypical, ultra-efficient winding mechanisms.

In automatic watches, a bidirectional micro-rotor converts kinetic energy – motion from the wearer’s arm – into potential energy for the mainspring, no matter the direction the micro-rotor is turning in. It is this efficiency that appealed to Romain Gauthier when he designed Insight Micro-Rotor. This should come as little surprise: Gauthier is a qualified constructor of precision machinery who brings, among many qualities, an engineer’s approach to his designs for the brand’s in-house movements.

The bi-directionality of the micro-rotor is achieved through a reversing gear. The axis of this gear glides side to side, guided by a curved aperture cut within two arc-shaped steel plates which are block-polished to facilitate the gear’s lateral movement and rotation. When the micro-rotor changes direction, it drives the toothing of the reversing gear in the opposite direction, making the reversing gear slide this way too.

Gauthier has designed the micro-rotor so that it turns between two bridges, each fitted with a ruby bearing, thus harnessing the watchmaking principle of avoiding metal against metal by putting metal against ruby. Rubies have a low coefficient of friction and high wear resistance, here helping to produce a smooth, inaudible rotation of the micro-rotor compared to, say, metal ball-bearings which can entail noise and wear.

Given the relative weight of the micro-rotor (3.86g/0.14oz), Gauthier decided to eschew a ‘flying’ rotor supported by just one bridge from beneath and instead design the micro-rotor so it is sandwiched between two bridges, from above and from below, for superior stability.

Insight Micro-Rotor’s movement was designed, developed, produced, decorated, assembled and regulated at Manufacture Romain Gauthier in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland. The movement’s two mainspring barrels combine to offer 80 hours of energy at full wind. The barrels are in series for more constant power to the regulator that features the Romain Gauthier balance wheel with curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights plush and-assembled pallet lever that is triangular for maximum rigidity. Chronometrically, Insight Micro-Rotor is very stable, falling well within the accepted tolerances of precision for haute horlogerie.

The spectacular decoration on Insight Micro-Rotor’s movement includes hand-made and hand-polished bevels, snailing, straight-graining, circular-graining, hand-frosting as well as hand-made and hand-polished jewel countersinks.

The 39.5mm diameter of the three-part case– caseband, bezel and back – makes Insight Micro-Rotor a perfect fit for both male and female wrists. The crown is placed at 2 o’clock to free up space for wrist movement. The soldered lugs gracefully meet with the caseband. And the bevel in the front sapphire crystal is another subtle design touch that helps to make Insight Micro-Rotor a horological tour de force.

Technical details
Model: Insight Micro-Rotor By Romain Gauthier: Red Gold and Platinum Limited Editions

Editions
18k red gold case with NAC-treated movement – 3 x 10-piece limited editions
– 10 pieces with oven-fired white enamel dial on 18k gold base, complemented by flame-blued steel hands
– 10 pieces with oven-fired black enamel dial on 18k gold base, complemented by 18k red gold hands
– 10 pieces with oven-fired blue enamel dial on 18k gold base, complemented by 18k red gold hands

950 platinum case with palladium-treated movement – 3 x 10-piece limited editions
– 10 pieces with oven-fired white enamel dial on 18k gold base, complemented by flame-blued steel hands
– 10 pieces with oven-fired black enamel dial on 18k gold base, complemented by 18k white gold hands
– 10 pieces with oven-fired blue enamel dial on 18k gold base, complemented by 18k white gold hands

Features and indications
Off-centre hours, minutes and small seconds; in-house, bidirectional, automatic movement featuring 22k solid gold micro rotor anddouble mainspring barrel in series for generous 80-hour power reserve

Dial and hands
Oven-fired enamel dial on 18k gold dial base,with 18k gold hands or flame-blued hands, depending on which edition

Movement and finishing
Dimensions: 32.1mm x 6.8mm
Power reserve: 80 hours
Number of jewels: 28
Number of components: 206
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Components in: 22k solid gold micro rotor, steel, stainless steel, beryllium copper, brass and German silver
Finishing: Highest-level haute horlogeriehand-finishing

Case
Dimensions: 39.5mm x 12.9mm at highest point
Water resistance: 50m/5atm/170ft
Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection coating, front and display back
Crown for winding and time-setting at 2 o’clock

Strap and buckle
Alligator leather strap hand-stitched in Switzerland with red gold pin buckle where case is red gold, and white gold pin buckle where case is platinum

Romain Gauthier Logical One Empire’s Secret – Song Dynasty

Unveiled at Basel world 2017, Romain Gauthier Logical One Empire’s Secret – Song Dynasty is the model from specially-commissioned series, Logical One Empire’s Secret.

The special edition ‘Song Dynasty’ timepiece features an 18k red gold case with red gold cover. The top half of the cover front features a micro-painted engraving of a scene adapted from “Along the River During the Qingming Festival”, the celebrated painting depicting 12th century daily life in Chinaby artist Zhang Zeduan (1085–1145).

The bottom half of the cover front is sumptuously smooth and mirror-polished, while an off-centre aperture allows for views of the white enamel hour-minute subdial and small seconds featuring flame-blued steel hands.

A squeeze on the pusher at 4 o’clock unlocks the cover, which can be lifted up to reveal a further micro-painted engraving on the entire inside cover – a full elaboration of the same scene evoked on the front. This animated snapshot of everyday life during the Song dynasty depicts bustling crowds of people, market stalls, animals of labour, boats and nature next to a bridge.

Indeed, this bridge scene forms the centre and primary focus of the original monochrome-ink-on-silkscroll “Along the River During the Qingming Festival” which measures 5.25m (17ft)by 25.5cm (10 inches), and has been referred to as “China’s Mona Lisa”.

The intricately hand-engraved and hand-painted micro-scale adaptation of this masterpiece on ‘Song Dynasty’ was painstakingly carried out at the ateliers of Olivier Vaucher in Geneva, and it wonderfully recalls a golden age of Chinese civilisation.

Under the Song Dynasty (960-1279), huge strides were made in agricultural technology and handicrafts; paper money and tea drinking were introduced; gunpowder, printing and the compass were invented; and many noted poets and scholars emerged during this period.

Inside this unique beats Romain Gauthier’s Logical One in-house movement. This multi-patented movement – here treated with anthracite NAC – features a revolutionary snail cam and friction-minimising ruby-link chain, plus sapphire-lined mainspring barrel, to offer nearly two days of constant force.

Its spectacular decoration includes hand-created and hand-polished rounded bevels, hand-frosting, snailing, straight-graining, circular-graining as well as hand-polished jewel countersinks.

The sapphire crystal display back affords further views of the finely finished movement, in addition to a 46-hour power reserve indicator.

Logical One Empire’s Secret – Song Dynasty is a unique piece.

Technical details
Model: LOGICAL ONE EMPIRE’S SECRET – SONG DYNASTY
Unique piece
18k red gold case with red gold cover featuring micro-painted hand-engraving of an adaptation of “Along the River During Qing Ming Festival” by Zhang Zeduan

Dial and hands
White enamel dial on an 18k gold base complemented by flame-blued steel hands

Movement
Dimensions: 35.5mm x 10.5mm
Power reserve: 46 hours
Number of jewels: 63 in total, including 26 for the constant-force chain
Number of components: 359
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Movement components in: steel, stainless steel, beryllium copper, brass, titanium and German silver
Patents: 4
Treatment: NAC
Finishing: Highest-level haute horlogerie finishing

Case
Case material: 18k red gold
Dimensions: 43mm x 15mm
Water resistance: 30m/3atm/100ft
Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection coating, front and display back
Crown for time setting at 2 o’clock
Push button for winding at 9 o’clock
Pusher for unlocking cover at 4 o’clock

Strap and buckle
Brown alligator leather strap hand-stitched in Switzerland with 18k red gold pin buckle

Romain Gauthier Logical One Secret Rubies

Romain Gauthier Logical One Secret Rubies timepiece showcases the art of gem setting with breathtaking vibrancy. No fewer than 185 invisibly-set, baguette-cut Burmese rubies totalling almost 10 carats grace the white gold cover, lugs and buckle of this mesmerising objet d’art.

Rubies are revered for their rarity, hardness and deep red colour. Burmese rubies, in particular, are coveted for their rich red hue, enhanced here by the terraced edges of the baguette cut.

While this piece’s 18k white gold cover is set with 149 rubies (7.9carats), adorning the lugs area further 32 stones (1.1 carats). Even the 18k white gold pin buckle is sumptuously decorated with four baguettes (0.5 carats) to complete this masterful display of gem setting.

The gold cover makes the task of invisibly setting the rubies even more challenging as each stone has to be hand-adjusted to fit its slightly curved profile. This meticulous operation results in nearly every stone being unique – the stones are not simply interchangeable within the overall pattern.

Inside beats the innovative, Grand Prix de Genève-winning movement of Logical One, which was conceived, developed, produced, decorated, assembled and regulated in-house at Manufacture Romain Gauthier.

This pioneering movement features Romain Gauthier’s 21st-century reinterpretation of a traditional chain-and-fusee style constant force mechanism. Gauthier’s invention contains a revolutionary ruby-link chain, snail cam and sapphire-lined mainspring barrel offering nearly two days of constant force – the holy grail of precision watchmaking.

Pressing the caseband pusher at 4 o’clock unlatches the cover, allowing the wearer to lift it up and admire Logical One Secret Rubies’ palladium-treated movement through the sapphire crystal directly beneath. The snail cam and ruby-link chain are on full show, as are bespoke gear wheels with graceful circular arms; polished screw heads with distinctive s-slot; balance wheel with curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights; hand-frosted bridges; and Romain Gauthier-invented triangular pallet lever.

More of the outstanding movement can be viewed through the display back; bridges and plates bearing a number of angles – including several sharp internal angles – feature rounded bevels that have been meticulously handcrafted. This type of eye-catching anglage brings out the inherent beauty of the components.

Logical One Secret Rubies is a unique piece.

Technical details
Model: LOGICAL ONE SECRET RUBIES BY ROMAIN GAUTHIER
Unique piece
Invisibly set with 185 baguette-cut Burmese rubies totalling 9.5 carats: 18k white gold cover set with 149 rubies,7.9carats; lugs set with 32 rubies, 1.1 carats; 18k white gold pin buckle set with 4 rubies, 0.5 carats

Features and indications
Art of gem setting: 185 invisibly set Burmese baguette rubies, totalling 9.5carats
Movement features chain-and-fusee style constant force system, push-button winding and superlative hand finishing
Hours, minutes, small seconds and 46-hour power reserve indicator

Dial and hands
Skeletonised hour and minute hands in 18k white gold
Solid small seconds hand in 18k white gold
Subdials fixed via Romain Gauthier polished screws with distinctive s-slot
White enamel dial on an 18k white gold base

Movement and finishing
Dimensions: 35.5mm x 10.5mm
Power reserve: 46 hours
Number of jewels: 63 in total, including 26 for the constant-force chain
Number of components: 359
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Movement components in: steel, stainless steel, beryllium copper, brass, titanium and German silver
Patents: 4
Finishing: Highest-level haute horlogerie finishing

Case
Case material: 18k red gold
Dimensions: 43mm x 15.9mm
Water resistance: 30m/3atm/100ft
Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection coating, front and display back
Crown for time setting at 2 o’clock
Push button for winding at 9 o’clock
Pusher for unlocking cover at 4 o’clock

Strap and buckle
Alligator leather strap hand-stitched in Switzerland with 18k white gold pin buckle invisibly set with four rubies totalling 0.5 carats

Romain Gauthier Logical One Secret Diamonds

The Logical One Secret Diamonds wristwatch by Romain Gauthier takes the union of art and haute horlogerie to a stunning new level thanks to this timepiece’s integrated cover which here serves as a canvas for the art of gem setting.

With Logical One Secret Diamonds, hours, minutes and seconds are embraced in a glittering ocean of diamonds cascading right down to the lugs. An incredible 181 invisibly set baguette diamonds, totalling nearly seven carats, make for an ever-changing panorama of constantly glittering and sparkling reflections.

The craftsmanship required for invisible diamond setting is even more demanding than most in that it requires not one but two skilled artists: gem setter and diamond cutter.  To be invisibly set, each and every diamond has to be carefully grooved, with each cut running the very real risk of breaking the stone.

However, while invisibly set diamonds are very difficult to accomplish, the effect is spectacular as without visible support,the gems look larger and light can reflect and refract throughout, unimpeded in an explosion of brilliance.

With the diamonds decorating Logical One Secret Diamond’s cover and lugs taking centre stage, the Logical One Secret also features a mechanical work of art – the innovative, Grand Prix de Genève-winning movement of Logical One which was conceived, developed, produced, decorated, assembled and regulated in-house at Manufacture Romain Gauthier.

This pioneering movement features Romain Gauthier’s 21st-century reinterpretation of a traditional chain-and-fusee style constant force mechanism. Gauthier’s invention contains a revolutionary ruby-link chain, snail cam and sapphire-lined mainspring barrel to offer nearly two days of constant force – the holy grail of precision watchmaking.

Pressing the caseband pusher at 4 o’clock unlatches the cover, allowing the wearer to lift it up and admire Logical One Secret’s movement through the sapphire crystal.

The snail cam and ruby-link chain are on full show, as are bespoke gear wheels with graceful circular arms; polished screw heads with distinctive s-slot; balance wheel with curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights; hand-frosted bridges; and Romain Gauthier-invented triangular pallet lever.

More of the outstanding movement can be viewed through the display back; bridges and plates bearing a number of angles – including several sharp internal angles – feature rounded bevels that have been meticulously created by hand. This type of eye-catching anglage brings out the inherent beauty of the components.

Logical One Secret Diamonds is a unique piece.

Technical details
Model: LOGICAL ONE SECRET DIAMONDS BY ROMAIN GAUTHIER
Unique piece
18k red gold cover invisibly set with 149 baguette diamonds IF to VVS/G+, 6.0 carats; lugs invisibly set with 32 baguette diamonds quality IF to VVS/G+, 0.9 carats

Features and indications
Art of gem setting: 181 invisibly set baguette diamonds, 6.9 carats total
Movement features chain-and-fusee style constant force system, push-button winding and superlative hand finishing
Hours, minutes, small seconds and 46-hour power reserve indicator

Dial and hands
Skeletonised hour and minute hands in 18k red gold
Solid small seconds hand in 18k red gold
Subdials fixed via Romain Gauthier polished screws with distinctive s-slot
Clous de Paris decoration on black subdials

Movement
Dimensions: 35.5mm x 10.5mm
Power reserve: 46 hours
Number of jewels: 63 in total, including 26 for the constant-force chain
Number of components: 359
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Movement components in: steel, stainless steel, beryllium copper, brass, titanium and German silver
Patents: 4
Finishing: Highest-level haute horlogerie finishing

Case
Case material: 18k red gold
Dimensions: 43mm x 15.9mm
Water resistance: 30m/3atm/100ft
Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection coating, front and display back
Crown for time setting at 2 o’clock
Push button for winding at 9 o’clock
Pusher for unlocking cover at 4 o’clock

Strap and buckle
Alligator leather strap hand-stitched in Switzerland with 18k red gold pin buckle

Romain Gauthier Enraged Limited Editions: Logical One Enraged and Prestige HMS Enraged

The Enraged Limited Editions by Romain Gauthier follow a different path from the traditional luxury watches that come in polished and shiny finishing. This new collection reinterprets two iconic models from Manufacture: Logical One & Prestige HMS.

Logical One is Romain Gauthier’s Grand Prix de Genève-winning creation that contains a snail cam and friction-minimising ruby-link chain to offer nearly two days of constant force. Its in-house movement, visible dial side and through the display back, is ingeniously wound using a caseband pusher. It features hours and minutes on an off-centre subdial and small seconds, plus a 46-hour power reserve indicator on the back.

Logical One Enraged

Prestige HMS – hours, minutes and seconds –boasts a partly open dial and display back offering mouth watering views of Romain Gauthier’s in-house Calibre 2206 HMS, notable for its large-diameter crown configured ‘flat’ on the caseback for increased winding efficiency. The absence of a protruding caseband crown lends the timepiece a distinctive, streamlined profile.

Prestige HMS Enraged

For his Enraged limited editions, Romain Gauthier has taken Logical One and Prestige HMS and given them a bold, sporty makeover, with the watchmaker drawing on the automotive industry for inspiration.

Let us start with the interior details. The movement plates and bridges feature hand-created, rounded bevels and hand-created jewel countersinks in keeping with tradition. But Gauthier has treated them with a decidedly less-than-traditional, light-absorbing matte-black finish.

The displays are also darkened and matte-finished: Prestige HMS’s louvred brass dial has been hand-frosted then blackened, while for Logical One the same hand-frosting technique has been used to playfully turn the enamel subdials from a glossy black into a rough-textured grey. The hour, minute and second hands are, naturally, matte black, and even the R.Gauthier logo has taken on a spiky form, in appearance and attitude.

As for the body work, Gauthier has chosen to machine the cases from robust yet lightweight Grade 5 titanium, which has been matte black ADLC treated. The treatment here doesn’t see light being totally soaked up. In fact, the grainy texture created by sand-blasting provides a subtle, intriguing sheen. Even the crowns and, in the case of Logical One Enraged, the winding pusher, bear this rugged, eye-catching finish.

The most outrageous supercars are destined for only a special few. Likewise, Gauthier has ensured the exclusivity of these timepieces by creating both Logical One Enraged and Prestige HMS Enraged in three editions – with dark accents, red accents or orange accents – with each edition limited to just five pieces.

Logical One Enraged
With Logical One, Romain Gauthier has reinvented the chain-and-fusee– one of the oldest methods of supplying constant force to a horological movement – making it more reliable, more effective… and more constant.

Logical One’s pioneering, multi-patented in-house movement features Romain Gauthier’s 21st-century reinterpretation of a traditional chain-and-fusee style constant force mechanism, on display to the left of the hour-minute subdial.

Gauthier’s invention contains an innovative snail cam connected to the mainspring barrel by a ruby-link chain. With the snail cam and mainspring barrel configured so they are ‘flat’ – i.e. on the same plane – force is transmitted in a straight line for an ultra-efficient transfer of energy.

The relatively short length of the chain allows it to contain strong, generously sized links in steel featuring rollers made from low-friction, hard-wearing synthetic rubies. The chain is joined together via a smart snap-clip systemthat offers precision, reliability and ease of servicing.

To eliminate potential uneven friction within the mainspring barrel, Gauthier has placed the mainspring between synthetic sapphire plates. Sapphire has a low coefficient of friction with steel making it the ideal material to use.

Winding Logical One is a veritable tactile pleasure thanks to Romain Gauthier’s innovative push button winding system, with the pusher set into the caseband at 9 o’clock. Another demonstration of Gauthier’s clever engineering, the pusher efficiently transmits force to the barrel on the same plane.

Logical One Enraged’s movement was conceived, developed, produced, decorated, assembled and regulated at Manufacture Romain Gauthier in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland.

Virtually every component of the movement bears Roman Gauthier’s distinctive touch: The highly visible balance wheel with curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights; the curvaceous balance bridge; bespoke gear wheels with circular arms for maximum strength; hand-bevelled bridges; high-efficiency profiles of the gear teeth; screw heads with s-slot for more length; and Romain Gauthier-invented triangular pallet lever for maximum rigidity. All these elements can be admired dial side, whilemore of the movement can be viewed through the display back.

Technical details
Editions
Full matte black with dark dial and movement accents – 5-piece limited edition
Full matte black with reddial and movement accents – 5-piece limited edition
Full matte black with orangedial and movement accents – 5-piece limited edition

Features and indications
Hours, minutes, small seconds; 46-hour power reserve indicator; push-button winding; innovative chain-and-fusee style constant force system featuring snail cam and ruby-link chain

Dial and hands
Oven-fired black-enamel dial, turned grey by hand-frosting, on an 18k gold base
Matte black stainless steel hour, minute and second hands
Skeletonised hour and minute hands

Movement
In-house movement
Dimensions: 35.5mm x 10.5mm
Power reserve: 46 hours
Number of jewels: 63 in total, including 26 for the constant-force chain
Number of components: 359
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Movement components in: Steel, stainless steel, beryllium copper, brass, titanium and German silver
Treatment: Matte black
Patents: 4
Finishing: Hand-created, rounded bevels and hand-created jewel counter sinks

Case
Case material: Sand-blasted full matte black ADLC Grade 5 titanium
Dimensions: 43mm x 15mm
Water resistance: 30m/3atm/100ft
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflection coating front and display back
Crown for time-setting at 2 o’clock
Push button for winding at 9 o’clock

Strap
Black nubuckstrap with stitching in colour to match the dial and movement accents, with matte black titanium pin buckle

Prestige HMS Enraged
The dial of Prestige HMS is a harmonious composition of circles and arcs. Hours and minutes are displayed in the large sub-dial at 12 o’clock engraved with the R.Gauthier logo, while cut-outs in the main dial reveal the precision micro-mechanics of the in-house movement beneath.

The visible, oscillating balance wheel at 7 o’clock and open seconds wheel at 5 o’clock add vibrancy and animation to an already rich visual experience.

The streamline 41mm diameter case is distinguished by unbroken lines around its full perimeter. Indeed, it is the absence of a ‘normal’ caseband crown that hints at just how remarkable the movement is.

Romain Gauthier has placed the crown ‘flat’ on the caseback to increase winding efficiency because energy does not need to be transmitted through 90°. It also reduces wear and stress on components. The large diameter of the crown also enables the timepiece to be easily wound, even while on the wrist.

While the dial side treats the observer to a partial view of the movement – which was conceived, developed, produced, decorated, assembled and regulated at Manufacture Romain Gauthier – it is through the display back that this in-house calibre is fully showcased, with Roman Gauthier’s distinctive touch evident in virtually all the components.

The bespoke gear wheels feature circular arms providing elegance and strength; the polished screw heads bear a unique s-slot, enabling more torque to be applied during assembly.

With its curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights, the balance wheel has been designed and manufactured by Romain Gauthier. The regulator even features a high-efficiency triangular pallet lever, another Romain Gauthier invention.

The hand-finishing of the bridges includes hand-created, rounded bevels and hand-created jewel counter sinks. While the Vallée de Joux style finger bridges catch the eye with their distinctive curves,the large bridge at the top has a cut-out revealing some of the mainspring barrel and ratchet click. Even the sharp internal angles of this cut-out are hand-bevelled.

Technical details
Editions
Full matte black with dark dial and movement accents – 5-piece limited edition
Full matte black with red dial and movement accents – 5-piece limited edition
Full matte black with orange dial and movement accents – 5-piece limited edition

Features and indications
Off-centre hours and minutes; sectorial seconds
Multi-level dial open 3 o’clock to 9 o’clock to reveal balance wheel and seconds gear
In-house movement visible through display back
Flat crown on caseback for ergonomic winding

Dial and hands
Off-centre hours and minutessubdial at 12 o’clock
Sectorial seconds at 5 o’clock
Matte black stainless steel hour, minute and second hands featuring coloured tips
Skeletonised hour and minute hands

Movement
In-house movement
In-house manufacture movement Calibre 2206 HMS
Power reserve: Approximately 60 hours
Number of jewels: 22
Number of components: 128
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Finishing: Hand-created, rounded bevels and hand-created jewel counter sinks

Case
Case material: Sand-blasted full matte black ADLC Grade 5 titanium
Dimensions: 41mm x 12.1 mm
Water resistance: 10m/1atm/30ft
Winding and time-setting crown on the caseback

Strap
Black nubuck strap with stitching in colour to match the dial and movement accents, with matte black titanium pin buckle

Romain Gauthier Logical One Natural Titanium

A paragon of fine Swiss watchmaking, Logical One is Romain Gauthier’s Grand Prix de Genève-winning creation that contains a revolutionary snail cam and friction-minimising ruby-link chain, plus sapphire-lined mainspring barrel, to offer nearly two days of constant force.

Its beautifully hand-decorated, in-house movement can be admired dial side and through the display back, and is wound using an ergonomic winding pusher integrated into the case band. It features hours and minutes on an off-centre subdial, small seconds, and a 46-hour power reserve indicator on the back. This year, Romain Gauthier presents a titanium edition of this micro-mechanical marvel.

Part of Logical One Natural Titanium’s splendour lies in the contrasts created by the various finishes applied to the case and movement: light and dark, polished and satin-finished. The mainplate, mainspring barrel bridge and lower bridge for the constant force mechanism bear a deep anthracite ADLC finish. Yet, the balance bridge, escape wheel bridge and power reserve indicator bridge are in a bright palladium-treated brass that brings out the fine hand-finishing of these parts. Likewise, the upper ‘bar’ bridge for the constant force system is in light-hued natural titanium.

As for the titanium case, the lugs, bezel, caseback, pusher and time-setting crown are satin-finished, creating a gentle sheen that forms a fine counterpoint to the gleaming caseband, which has been highly polished. The alligator leather strap is in casual matte black with light grey stitching.

Logical One Natural Titanium is available with oven-fired white enamel dial with flame-blued steel hands, oven-fired black enamel dial with 18k gold hands, or black clous de Paris dial with 18k gold hands.

Technical details
Edition
Grade 5 natural titanium case with anthracite ADLC and palladium-treated movement

Features and indications
Features: Hours, minutes, small seconds, 46-hour power reserve, push-button winding and innovative chain-and-fusee style constant force system featuring snail cam and ruby-link chain

Dial and hands
Oven-fired white enamel dial on a 18k gold base complemented by flame-blued steel hands, or
Oven-fired black enamel dial on a 18k gold base complemented by 18k gold hands, or
Blackened brass dial featuring clous de Paris guilloche complemented by 18k gold hands

Movement
In-house movement
Dimensions: 35.5mm x 10.5mm
Power reserve: 46 hours
Number of jewels: 63 in total, including 26 for the constant-force chain
Number of components: 359
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Movement components in: Steel, stainless steel, beryllium copper, brass, titanium and German silver
Patents: 4
Finishing: Highest level haute horlogerie finishing

Case
Dimensions: 43mm x 15mm
Water resistance: 30m/3atm/100ft
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflection coating front and display back
Crown for time-settingat 2 o’clock
Push button for winding at 9 o’clock

Strap
Matte black alligator leather strap with light grey stitching, hand-stitched in Switzerland with titanium pin buckle

Romain Gauthier Logical One Secret Kakau Höfke

Independent Swiss luxury watch brand Romain Gauthier presents a unique timepiece in association with Kakau Höfke, the Brazilian artist who is a long-time friend of the Gauthier family and responsible for designing the Romain Gauthier logo when the brand was founded in 2005. The Logical one Secret Kakau Höfke is a stunning objet d’art that pays tribute to that most vibrant of cities, Rio de Janeiro.

On one hand, Logical one Secret Kakau Höfke is a resplendent expression of contemporary art. Adorning its integrated 18k white gold cover, hour-minute subdial and small seconds is a mesmerising, modernist depiction of Rio de Janeiro, designed by Kakau Höfke.

Originally featuring in her series of acrylic-on-canvas artworks, Höfke’s signature portrayal of her native city Rio not only evokes Corcovado – the iconic mountain on which proudly stands the ‘Christ the Redeemer’ statue – but also the pattern that features on the promenade (calçada) bordering Ipanema beach.

At the same time, this piece is a consummate celebration of time-honoured craftsmanship. For Höfke’s design has been beautifully adapted and recreated using an intricate micro-marquetry technique based on traditional stone marquetry, carried out by artisans at the Geneva atelier of Olivier Vaucher.

No fewer than 352unique, mirror-polished, miniature tiles of jade and agate – each one 0.5mm thin and painstakingly hand-finished and hand-applied – make up this exceptional micro-marquetry, which required three months of solid work to create. The sheer complexity of the marquetry is evidenced by its bombé profile and double layer of tiles.

Light and dark tiles cut from the same lavender jade stone form the Ipanema promenade pattern; tiles cut from blue agate compose the Corcovado scenery. Where the two motifs overlap, the cover has been delicately recessed to accommodate a second layer of tiles, with the ethereal transparency of the blue agate allowing the lavender jade marquetry below to remain visible.

The effect is remarkable, for the beholder can appreciate not just the varying hues of the different stone types, but also the contrasting, fragmented patterns of the two tile layers. That the marquetry seamlessly flows onto the subdials is another outstanding feature.

The artisan has displayed an extraordinary level of skill to pull off this feat, using their dexterous hand and experienced eye to fine-tune and place the tiles so that their joins are barely perceptible while at the same timeensuring that theoverall artwork boasts a subtle three-dimensional relief.

Indeed, the tile facets act like tiny angled mirrors, with light shimmering off of each one, endowing Logical one Secret Kakau Höfke with an effervescent vitality in keeping with the spirit of Rio de Janeiro and its people.

A gentle squeeze on the pusher integrated into the white gold case unlocks the cover engraved on the inside with the Romain Gauthier logo and Kakau Höfke’s signature. Lifting up the cover reveals Logical one Secret’s multi-patented, in-house movement featuring flat chain-and-fusee style constant force system with ruby chain links, highly visible balance wheel boasting a gracefully curved bridge, and ergonomic push button winding system.

The sapphire crystal display back affords further views of this mechanical art, with the superlatively hand-finished movement on full show, in addition to the 46-hour power reserve indicator.

Logical one Secret Kakau Höfke is a unique piece, created as part of Manufacture Romain Gauthier’s 10th anniversary celebrations. It is accompanied by a unique acrylic-on-canvas Rio de Janeiro artwork that Kakau Höfke painted especially to complement the timepiece.

The Logical one Secret Kakau Höfke has also been pre-selected by the jury of the 2015 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in the Artistic Crafts category.

Technical details
Name: Logical one Secret Kakau Höfke
Reference number:MON000168
Limited edition: Unique piece

Features and indications
Intricate stone micro-marquetry adaptation of Kakau Höfke’s Rio de Janeiro artwork on white gold cover and subdials
Movement features chain-and-fusee style constant force system, push-button winding and superlative hand finishing
Hours, minutes, small seconds and 46-hour power reserve indicator
Stone micro-marquetry on white gold cover and hour and minute subdials
No. of lavender jade tiles: 270
No. of blue agate tiles: 82
Tiles cut by laser then adjusted, finished and applied by hand at Olivier Vaucher’s atelier

Dial and hands
Lavender jade marquetry on hour and minute subdials
Skeletonised hour and minute hands in 18k white gold
Solid small seconds hand in 18k white gold
Subdials fixed via Romain Gauthier polished screw with distinctive s-slot

Movement
In-house manufacture movement
Dimensions: 35.5mm x 10.5mm
Power reserve: 46 hours
Number of jewels: 37 in movement, 34 for chain
Number of components: 357
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Movement plates and bridges: titanium, stainless steel and brass
Movement finish: palladium-treated
Finishing: Highest level haute horlogerie finishing, including hand-polished screws and jewel countersinks; hand-bevelled and hand-polished bridges and plates

Case and strap
Case material: 18k white gold
Dimensions: 43mm x 15mm
Water resistance: 30m /3atm / 100ft
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflection coating front and display back
Crown for time-setting at 2 o’clock
Push button for winding at 9 o’clock
Pusher for unlocking cover at 4 o’clock
Strap and buckle: alligator leather strap hand-stitched in Switzerland with 18k white gold pin buckle

Romain Gauthier – HMS Ten

Swiss luxury watch atelier Romain Gauthier celebrates its 10th anniversary by launching a brand new timepiece, HMS Ten. This exceptional wristwatch features off-centre hours and minutes; small seconds; partially open dial; hand-finished, in-house movement visible through display back; and ergonomic flat case back crown.

The dial of HMS Ten is a harmonious composition of circles and arcs. Inside the chapter ring, there is the smoothly finished, off-centre hours-minutes subdial bearing the R. Gauthier logo and flanked either side by a Clous de Paris.

On the lower portion of the subdial, sectorial seconds allows visual access to the movement below, with the balance wheel and distinctive gear driving the seconds on show. The three parts of the dial are fixed invisibly from beneath, lending clarity and classicism to the displays.

The graceful 41mm diameter case is distinguished by pure, clean, unbroken lines around its full perimeter. However, it is the absence of a normal crown that reveals just how remarkable the movement is.

Placing the crown flat on the caseback increases winding efficiency because energy does not need to be transmitted through 90°. It also reduces wear and stress on components. The large diameter of the crown also enables the watch to be easily wound, even while on the wrist.

While the dial side treats the observer to a partial view of the movement – which was entirely conceived, developed, designed, produced, assembled and regulated by Manufacture Romain Gauthier – it is through the display back that this in-house calibre is fully showcased, with virtually every component bearing Roman Gauthier’s distinctive touch.

The Vallée de Joux style finger bridges catch both the light and the eye with their seductive polished curves. The bespoke gear wheels feature circular arms providing both elegance and strength; the polished screw heads bear a unique S-slot, enabling more torque to be applied and aesthetic.

With its distinctive curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights, the balance wheel has been designed and manufactured by Romain Gauthier. The regulator even features a high-efficiency triangular pallet lever, another Romain Gauthier invention.

The large movement bridge at the top has a cut-out revealing some of the mainspring barrel and ratchet click. The cut-out features four highly polished, sharp internal bevelled angles – this anglage is the hallmark of superlative hand finishing since machines are not yet capable of milling and polishing sharp internal angles.

Impressively, all components are designed, developed and manufacture by Romain Gauthier except for the mainspring, balance spring and jewels.

HMS Ten is available in three limited editions of 10 pieces each: platinum case/blue dial, white gold case/champagne dial and red gold case/anthracite dial.

Technical details

Features and Indications
Off-centre hours and minutes sub dial at 12 o’clock
Sectorial seconds at 4 o’clock
Dial open 4 o’clock to 8 o’clock to reveal balance wheel and seconds gear
Multi-level, multi-textured dial featuring smooth and Clous de Parisfinishes
Hand-finished, in-house movement visible through display back
Flat crown on caseback for ergonomic winding

Case
Case materials: 5N red gold, white gold or platinum 950
Dimensions: 41mm x 12.1 mm
Water resistance: 10m /1 atm

Dial and Hands

Platinum 950 limited edition of 10 pieces

– Blue dial
– Smooth finish on subdial and seconds arc
– Guilloched finish around hours-minutes subdial
– Silvered numerals
– Rhodium-treated hands

18k 5N red gold limited edition of 10 pieces

– Champagne dial
– Smooth finish on subdial and seconds arc
– Guilloched finish around hours-minutes subdial
– Black numerals
– Gilded hands

18k white gold limited edition of 10 pieces

– Champagne dial
– Smooth finish on subdial and seconds arc
– Guilloched finish around hours-minutes subdial
– Black numerals
– Gilded hands

Movement and Finishing
In-house manufacture movement Calibre HMS
Power reserve: around 60 hours
Number of jewels: 22
Number of components: 128
Balance frequency: 28,800 bph / 4Hz
Fine hand finishing including hand polished screws and jewel countersinks, hand polished bevels and bridges

Strap and buckle
Alligator leather hand-stitched in Switzerland with pin buckle in metal to match case

ROMAIN GAUTHIER LOGICAL ONE SECRET

The independent Swiss luxury watch company Montres Romain Gauthier made its debut at Baselworld 2007 with the Prestige HM, featuring his own in-house manufacture movement. The Prestige HMS followed in 2010.

In 2013, Romain Gauthier unveiled Logical One, an extraordinary mechanical timepiece loaded with many innovations. Logical One features the quadruple-patent-pending Romain Gauthier flat chain and-fusee style constant force system with ruby chain links, ergonomic push button winding system, dial-side visible balance, mainspring barrel with sapphire inserts, plus a 60-hour power reserve indicator.

This year, the master watchmaker is introducing high jewellery versions of Logical One – The Logical One Secret Diamonds & Logical One Secret Ruby – by exploring superlative expressions of fine art and haute horlogerie.  With its cover closed, hours, minutes and seconds are embraced in a glittering ocean of diamonds cascading right down to the lugs.

An incredible 181 invisibly set baguette diamonds, totally nearly 7 carats, make for an ever-changing panorama of constantly glittering and sparkling reflections.

A gentle squeeze on the pusher discreetly set into the case band at 4 o’clock lifts the cover, revealing the intricate complexity of Logical one’s award-winning − Best Men’s Complications Watch at the 2013 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève − multi-patented constant force movement.

The fully integrated cover sensually follows the form of the sapphire crystal underneath to create a canvas for artists of many mediums such as gem setting, guilloche, miniature painting, enamelling, and engraving. And besides the sheer transcendental aesthetical magnificence of a cover and lugs blanketed in 100s of stunning diamonds, they also provide a practical advantage in creating an extremely scratch resistant case.

Technical details
Special features
Gem setting:  181 invisibly set baguette diamonds, 6.9 carats total
Hours, minutes, small seconds, 60-hours power reserve, push-button winding and innovative chain-and-fusee style constant force system.
Limited Edition.

Case and strap
Diamonds: red gold cover invisibly set with 149 baguette diamonds IF to VVS/G+, 6.0 carats; lugs invisibly set with 32 baguette diamonds quality IF to VVS/G+, 0.9 carats
Case materials: red gold
Movement plates and bridges: titanium, stainless steel, brass
Dimensions: 43mm x 15.9mm
Water resistance: 30m /3atm / 90ft
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflection coat front and display back
Winding by push button at 9 o’clock
Time-setting crown with sapphire cabochon at 2 o’clock
Cover open by push button at 4 o’clock
Strap and buckle: alligator leather hand-stitched in Switzerland with red gold pin buckle

Movement
In-house manufacture movement calibre
Dimensions: 35.5mm x 10.5mm
Power reserve:  circa 60-hours
Number of jewels: 36 in movement, 34 for chain
Number of components: 394
Balance frequency: 28,800 bph / 4Hz
Highest level haute horlogerie finishing, including hand polished screws and jewel countersinks; hand bevelled and polished bridges and plates.
Four patents pending

* Specifications may change according to the artwork and case materials

Romain Gauthier LOGICAL ONE

Switzerland based Independent master watch maker Romain Gauthier has unveiled his new timepiece model LOGICAL ONE, which boasts lots of innovations such as triple patent-pending Romain Gauthier flat chain-and-fusee style constant force system with ruby chain links, ergonomic push button winding system, dial-side visible balance, mainspring barrel with sapphire inserts, plus a 60-hour power reserve indicator.

Constant force

The vast majority of machines run on constant force: Cars and planes don’t start running slower as fuel runs low and machines receive the same voltage no matter how much electricity is produced. Yet the power that runs and regulates the vast majority of high precision mechanical timepieces varies greatly according to the state of wind of the mainspring.

Constant force is one of the holy grails of horology and with Logical One, Romain Gauthier has reinvented the chain-and-fusee − one of the oldest and most traditional methods of supplying constant force to a watch/clock movement − making it more reliable, more effective . . . and more constant.

Traditional chain and fusee

A fusee (‘fusée’ is French for cone) is a cone-shaped pulley wound with a cord or chain that is attached to the mainspring barrel. Fusees have been used since 15th century to improve timekeeping by compensating for the diminishing torque/power of the mainspring as it ran down. The first fusees used fine cord; however, as technology enabled the manufacture of ever-smaller chains, these replaced cords because chains transmit power more efficiently. But the traditional chain and fusee has two inherent problems:

1. The multiple layers of chain (often eight turns) on the fusee mean that the individual links have to be small, which means that they are relatively weak.

2. The chain is often transmitting force between the fusee and mainspring barrel at an angle, which is both inefficient and adds stress.

Replacing the fusee with a snail cam

Romain Gauthier solved both problems by replacing the fusee with a slowly rotating snail cam, which is situated at 10 o’clock to the left of the hour/minutes dial. As the snail cam and mainspring barrel are on the same level, the force is always transmitted in a straight line and, as only one short line of chain is needed, the links can be bigger and stronger.

Ruby chain (patent pending)

To further improve efficiency, Romain Gauthier has taken full advantage of the larger chain links by making the links in low-friction hard-wearing synthetic rubies. And there is yet another innovation in the construction of the chain itself. Romain Gauthier has replaced the traditional method of joining chain links, by placing a fine sheet of paper between the links and connecting plates, riveting them together and burning the paper away to create a fine (though imprecise) tolerance, with a snap clip system that offers high-precision, simplicity, reliability and consistency.

Winding with ergonomic pusher

Winding Logical One is a pleasure thanks to Romain Gauthier’s innovative push button winding system, with the pusher set neatly into the left caseband. While the push-to-wind system is a pleasure to use, its advantages are not only ergonomic and aesthetic, but based on sound engineering principles.

A traditional crown is relative small with a fine (relatively fragile) stem that has to transmit the force 90° between the crown to the mainspring barrel. The pusher to wind Logical One transmits force to the barrel on the same plane.

Mainspring barrel with sapphire lining

As the mainspring unwinds in a traditional brass barrel, the metal of the spring scratches the metal, even when freshly greased. Over time, grease clots, scratches get rougher; the barrel sticks to the spring and does not rotate smoothly.

Sapphire plates

To eliminate this potential source of uneven friction, Romain Gauthier has placed mainspring of Logical One between synthetic sapphire plates. Sapphire has the ideal properties of having a low coefficient of friction with steel − why watch movements have ruby bearings – and is highly scratch resistant – why it is used for watch crystals.

Specific features

Bespoke gear wheels with graceful circular arms for maximum rigidity
Special power-process hand frosted bridges
High efficiency gear teeth profile (patent pending)
Polished screw heads with distinctive S-slot for more length/less slip
Balance wheel with curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights
Triangular pallet lever (Romain Gauthier invention) for improved rigidity

Movement & finishing

The movement for Logical One was entirely conceived, developed, designed, produced, decorated, assembled and regulated by Manufacture Romain Gauthier. Highly polished sharp internal bevelled angles in the movement plates and bridges are the hallmark of superlative hand finishing because, to date, machines are not capable of milling and polishing sharp internal bevels.

With Logical One, Romain Gauthier has gone a step further still in creating double-angle bevels with sharp internal angles, which give the effect of border. This distinctive eye-catching hand finish, created by using a two parallel bevels, has a similar effect to that of a frame around a beautiful painting, in that the frame highlights the artwork within.

Technical details

Model: Logical One

Features
Hours, minutes, small seconds, 3-day power reserve, push-button winding and innovative chain-and-fusee style constant force system

Case and strap
Case materials: red gold or platinum
Movement plates and bridges: titanium, stainless steel, brass
Dimensions: 43mm x 14.2mm
Water resistance: 50m /5 atm / 150’
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflection coat front and display back
Winding by push button at 9 o’clock
Time-setting crown with sapphire cabochon at 2 o’clock

Movement
In-house manufacture movement calibre
Dimensions: 35.5mm x 10.5mm
Power reserve: 60-hours
Number of jewels: 30 in movement, 34 for chain
Number of components: 333
Balance frequency: 28,800 bph / 4Hz
Highest level haute horlogerie finishing, including hand polished screws and jewel countersinks; hand bevelled and polished bridges and plates.

Patents
Three patents pending

Strap and buckle
Alligator leather hand-stitched in Switzerland with pin buckle in metal to match the case

Romain Gauthier Prestige HMS

The Prestige HMS (Hour, Minute, Seconds) collection by Romain Gauthier is a perfect blend of the traditional and the contemporary watch making. Hours and minutes are clearly legible in the large sub-dial, while cut-outs in the main dial reveal the intricate workings of the precision micro-mechanics of the in-house manufacture movement beneath.

Romain Gauthier Prestige HMS Platinum

The visible oscillating balance wheel at 7 o’clock and open seconds’ wheel at 5 o’clock add vibrancy and animation to an already rich visual experience of mechanics, texture, colour and composition.

The dial of the Prestige HMS is a series of circles within circles. Working from the outside in, we have a chapter ring on a band around the perimeter of the dial.

Inside that there is the off-centre sub-dial of the hours and minutes, its centre a harmonious composite of the engraved R. Gauthier logo on light grey, anthracite sun-ray guilloche radiating outwards and an opening allowing visual access to the movement below. A semi-circular ring arcs over the lower portion of the hour/minute sub-dial and indicates the seconds.

Romain Gauthier Prestige HMS Red Gold

The elegant 41mm diameter case is distinguished by clean, unbroken lines around its full case perimeter and it is the remarkable absence of a crown that reveals just how special the movement is.

Romain Gauthier Prestige HMS White Gold

Placing the crown on the back increases winding efficiency and water resistance also reduces wear and stress of components. The large-diameter flat crown enables the watch to be easily wound, even while on the wrist.

The movement was entirely conceived, developed, designed, produced, assembled and regulated by Manufacture Romain Gauthier.

Virtually every component bears Roman Gauthier’s distinctive touch: from the Vallée de Joux style finger bridges that catch both the light and the eye with their seductive polished curves; the bespoke gear wheels with their circular arms; the polished screw heads with their distinctive S-slot; the delicate balance wheel with its distinctive curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights has been designed and manufactured by Romain Gauthier; and right down to the triangular pallet lever (a Romain Gauthier invention).

In fact, the only components not designed by Romain Gauthier in the movement are the mainspring, balance spring and jewels (and even the latter are oversized to his specifications).

Prestige HMS is available in a 41mm diameter red gold, white gold or platinum case and a 43mm titanium case.

Technical details

Indications
Off-centre hours, minutes and small seconds

Case
Case materials: red gold, white gold, platinum or titanium
Dimensions: 41mm x 12.1, 43mm x 12.1 (titanium)
Water resistance: 10m /1 atm / 30’

Movement
In-house manufacture movement Calibre HMS
Power reserve: 60 hours
Number of jewels: 22
Number of components: 128
Balance frequency: 28,800 bph / 4Hz
Fine finishing including hand polished screws and jewel countersinks; Geneva waves, hand bevelled and polished bridges.

Strap and buckle
Alligator leather hand-stitched in Switzerland with pin buckle in metal to match the case

Romain Gauthier Prestige HM

Created by Romain Gauthier, the Independent Swiss watch maker based at La Vallée de Joux, Prestige HM watch collection features an original in-house movement and design. The elegant hand-guilloched solid-gold dial with off-center time indication is fairly traditional; however, the apparent lack of a crown gives an indication that the movement beneath is anything but.

The superbly finished movement features an innovative flat crown on the back, which is easy to wind on the wrist. The case is available in white gold, red gold and platinum and has a diameter of 41mm. Limited edition of 38 & 8 with baguette-cut diamonds set in the bezel.

Exuding clarity, classicism and refinement, Prestige HM features off-centre hours and minutes, superlatively hand-finished, in-house movement, graceful case and ergonomic case back crown.

Inside the chapter ring of the 18k gold dial, the smooth-finished, off-centre hours-minutes subdial bearing the R. Gauthier logo is flanked either side by a gorgeous guilloche that shimmers in the light. The dial elements are fixed invisibly from beneath, lending the displays a delightful purity.

The graceful case is distinguished by clean, unbroken lines around its perimeter, with the absence of a ‘normal’ crown revealing just how remarkable the movement is.

By placing the crown flat on the case back, Romain Gauthier has increased winding efficiency since energy no longer needs to be transmitted through 90°, while the large diameter and undulating profile of the crown enable Prestige HM to be effortlessly wound, even while on the wrist.

Turning over Prestige HM, the wearer can admire the finely-finished Calibre 2206 HM through the display back. This movement was conceived, developed, produced, decorated, assembled and regulated at Manufacture Romain Gauthier in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland.

Virtually every component of the movement bears Roman Gauthier’s distinctive touch. The bespoke gear wheels feature circular arms providing elegance and strength. The polished screw heads bear an aesthetic S-slot that enables more torque to be applied during assembly. The regulator boasts a Romain Gauthier-designed balance wheel featuring distinctive curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights, as well as a high-efficiency triangular pallet lever, another Romain Gauthier invention.

Romain Gauthier Prestige HM 18k red gold with black dial – 38-piece limited edition

The large movement bridge with a cut-out and the Vallée de Joux style finger bridges around the bottom catch the light and the eye with their polished, rounded bevels that have been meticulously created by hand. Such anglage is the hallmark of superlative hand-finishing, for which Romain Gauthier has become renowned.

Romain Gauthier Prestige HM 18k white gold – 38-piece limited edition

The jewel countersinks are also hand-made and hand-polished, while the mainplate recesses are decorated with spotting (perlage). As many as 60 hours have been devoted to hand-decorating the movement – even those components that are not on show.

Romain Gauthier Prestige HM 950 platinum – 38-piece limited edition

Prestige HM has been created in four 38-piece limited editions: 18k white gold, 18k red gold with black dial, 18k red gold with champagne dial and 950 platinum.

Romain Gauthier Prestige HM 18k red gold with champagne dial – 38-piece limited edition

Prestige HM with diamond-set bezel – featuring 60 baguette-cut diamonds totalling 3.86 carats set into the bezel – has been created in four 8-piece limited editions: 18k white gold, 18k red gold with black dial, 18k red gold with champagne dial and 950 platinum.

Romain Gauthier Prestige HM 950 platinum – 8-piece limited edition with diamond set bezel

Technical details

Editions
18k white gold – 38-piece limited edition
18k red gold with black dial – 38-piece limited edition
18k red gold with champagne dial – 38-piece limited edition
950 platinum – 38-piece limited edition

With diamond-set bezel
– 60 baguette-cut diamonds totalling 3.86 carats:
18k white gold – 8-piece limited edition
18k red gold with black dial – 8-piece limited edition
18k red gold with champagne dial – 8-piece limited edition
950 platinum – 8-piece limited edition

Features and indications
Off-centre hours and minutes subdial at 12 o’clock
Multi-textured gold dial featuring smooth and guilloche finishes
Superlatively hand-finished, in-house movement
Movement visible through display back
Graceful case
Flat crown on case back for ergonomic winding

Dial and hands
Smooth finish on subdial
Guilloche finish around hours-minutes subdial
Roman numerals
18k gold hour and minute hands

Movement and finishing
In-house manufacture movement Calibre 2206 HM
Power reserve: 60 hours
Number of jewels: 22
Number of components: 126
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz Features
Finishing: Highest-level haute horlogerie finishing

Case
Dimensions: 41mm x 12.1mm
Water resistance: 10m/1atm/30ft
Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection coating, front and display back
Winding and time-setting crown on the caseback

Strap and buckle
Alligator leather strap hand-stitched in Switzerland with red gold pin buckle where case is red gold, and white gold pin buckle where case is white gold or platinum