Adding a new dimension to the enduring ultra-thin challenge between major haute horlogerie brands, Richard Mille has just created a new world record in the category of thinnest mechanical watch with its new RM UP-01 Ferrari.
With a thickness of just 1.75 mm, the Richard Mille RM UP-01 has surpassed the thinness record established by Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra (1.80mm) early this year. Combining most modern designs with performance, aesthetics and ruggedness, the new ultra-thin watch was developed in collaboration with prestigious Italian automotive brand Ferrari.
The RM UP-01 Ferrari is a culmination of many years of work and more than 6,000 hours of development and laboratory testing. Equipped with a robust manual-winding mechanical movement, this extremely thin watch can withstand accelerations of more than 5,000g’s.
Image Credit: RICHARD MILLE
The Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari has a monobloc case made of grade 5 titanium. Its case-back and bezel are satin-finished, with polished bevels. Secured with 13 grade 5 titanium spline screws and abrasion-proof washers in 316L stainless steel, the ultra-thin case offers a water resistance of 10 meters.
The watch features an out of the ordinary face (bezel) design. It displays the hour and minute on a sub-dial positioned at the upper portion. This small dial is topped with a sapphire crystal glass. On the top right side of the watch face is the sub-dial for the balance, protected with a sapphire crystal glass.
On the top left side, you will find an integrated function selector with two positions: W (winding) & H (hand-setting). The turning crown positioned between 7 and 8 o’clock offer two functions: manual-winding of the movement and time-setting. Both crowns are protected with black ceramic inserts, to ensure water resistance and eliminate friction.
Image Credit: RICHARD MILLE
This timepiece incorporates a patented ultra-flat escapement jointly developed by Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. This new type of escapement with a balance wheel in titanium significantly reduces the calibre’s thickness whilst providing the same security as a conventional Swiss anchor escapement. The new patented, ultra-flat escapement eliminates parts like the guard pin and the safety roller to maintain the thinness of the movement.
Displaying hours, minutes and function selector, the hand-wound mechanical movement has a power reserve of 45 hours.
Its base-plate and bridges are made of grade 5 Titanium, a biocompatible, highly corrosion-resistant and robust alloy. The skeletonised baseplate was subjected to separate and extensive validation tests to ensure it met rigorous optimal strength requirements.
Image Credit: RICHARD MILLE
For this watch, Richard Mille has developed an ultra-thin interpretation of its emblematic tonneau shape. The grade 5 Titanium case is just 1.75mm thick and the movement beating inside has a thickness of 1.18 mm.
The 23 jewel manual-wound ultra-flat movement measures 41.45mm length and 28.85 mm width. It balance frequency is 28’800 vph (4 Hz).
All the titanium case components of this ultra-thin timekeeper are machined at the Richard Mille movement department to meet the extremely demanding machining tolerance of a single micron. The Ferrari prancing horse symbol and all the references present on the case are laser-engraved.
The Richard Mille RM UP-01 watch is available in a limited edition of 150 pieces. It weighs just 30 grams including strap.
For the Only Watch 2021 charity event, Richard Mille has decided to donate the RM 67-02 CHARLES LECLERC PROTOTYPE watch.
Charles Leclerc is a Monégasque racing driver, currently racing in Formula One for Scuderia Ferrari, under the Monégasque flag. Richard Mille has continued to support Charles for over a decade and the RM 67-02 prototype has helped the brand to test new technical solutions for subsequent models.
The RM 67-02 Charles Leclerc is a prototype hand-painted in the colours of Charles Leclerc’s flag. With its satin-finished, bevelled hands and sharp lines, the in-house extra flat calibre CRMA7 actively conveys a sense of power and strength. The tight, taut lines of the rotor, crafted of Carbon TPT® and white gold, the bridges and the DLC coated grade 5 titanium baseplate sharply underscore the sporty quality of this timepiece.
The case is crafted in white and red Quartz TPT®, composite materials exclusive to Richard Mille possessing exceptional shock resistance.
The comfort strap, entirely seamless, perfectly fit the contours of each wrist, adapting to individual morphology. As the lightest strap the brand has ever created it makes the RM 67-02 the lightest automatic watch of the Richard Mille collection.
The future owner of the RM 67-02 will receive two passes for the next F1 Monaco grand prix. As VIP Guests of Scuderia Ferrari, they will have the opportunity to meet Charles Leclerc and attend to the race at the heart of the Scuderia paddock.
Technical details
RM 67-02 CHARLES LECLERC PROTOTYPE
Case
Red and White Quartz TPT®
Dimensions: 47.25 x 38.70 x 7.80 mm
Dial
Grade 5 titanium case, hand-painted in the colours of Charles Leclerc’s flag
Movement
In-house calibre CRMA7: Skeletonised automatic-winding movement with hours and minutes.
This extraordinary mechanical timepiece from the House of Richard Mille features a wrist hugging, ergonomically curving tripartite case made of sapphire and a manual winding tourbillon movement.
Pharrell Williams has been known for his ardent passion for the science fiction series Star Trek. This new timepiece by Richard Mille reflects the same passion. Its dial illustrates the Valles Marineris’ view on the astronaut’s helmet.
The watch is equipped with Calibre RM52-05, a hand-wound mechanical tourbillon movement with hours and minutes function. Its base-plate and bridges are made of Grade 5 titanium, a biocompatible, highly corrosion-resistant and rigid alloy. The titanium structure of the movement evokes rocket launching platforms. Inspired by the cosmic universe, the base-plate features large inserts in alluring blue aventurine glass.
The terminal-curve spring equipping the balance wheel guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shocks or strong vibrations and during movement assembly and disassembly, hence ensuring better chronometric results over time. The regulator index is eliminated, and a more accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible thanks to 4 setting screws.
The fast rotating barrel significantly eliminates the phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion. It also has the provision of an excellent mainspring delta curve. These qualities ensure excellent performance and better power reserve. The central involute profile of the winding-barrel teeth provides an optimal pressure angle of 20°. This promotes effective rotary motion and compensates for possible variations in the engagement of the going train, thus ensuring excellent torque transmission with a distinct improvement in performance.
The grade 5 titanium helmet resting on a structure depicting the upper part of a spacesuit, also in grade 5 titanium, connects the dial to the movement beneath it. It has been painted white using an airbrush that was initially developed for street artist Cyril Kongo, who hand-painted the RM 68-01.
The projectors and cameras are represented by two diamonds and a black sapphire set on either side of the helmet. To recreate the imaginary Martian scene, the curved 5N gold visor has been engraved using specially created burins, grand-feu-enamelled and then hand-painted.
The bezel ring and caseback are made of brown Cermet, a high tech material that combines the lightness of titanium with the hardness of ceramic. Both these parts are affixed to a caseband made of Carbon TPT®. The tripartite case of the RM 52-05 is milled and ground from blocks of solid sapphire.
The watch is water-resistant to 50 metres, ensured by 2 Nitrile O-ring seals, and is assembled using 24 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion-resistant washers in 316L stainless steel.
The Richard Mille RM 52-05 Manual Winding Tourbillon Pharrell Williams is limited to 8 pieces.
Technical details
Model: Richard Mille RM 52-05 Manual Winding Tourbillon Pharrell Williams
Case
Sapphire case, tripartite
Crystal
Bezel side: in sapphire (hardness of 1800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (both sides); Thickness: 1.50 mm
Case back side: in sapphire (hardness of 1800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (both sides); Thickness: 1.20 mm
Movement
Calibre Rm52-05
Manual winding tourbillon movement with hours and minutes
Dimensions: 32.80 x 30.90 mm
Thickness: 6.40 mm
Tourbillon diameter: 10.90 mm
Balance wheel diameter: 9.12 mm
Jewels: 19
Balance wheel: Glucydur®, 2 arms and 4 setting screws
Moment of inertia: 11.50 mg.cm2, angle of lift: 53°
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Balance spring: elinvar by Nivarox®
Shock protection: KIF ELASTOR KE 160 B28
Barrel shaft: in nickel-free Chronifer® (DIN x 46 Cr 13 + S) with the following characteristics: stainless – antimagnetic – suitable for tempering
– Microblasted surfaces
– Satin-finished surfaces
– Hand-polished anglage
– Long strokes
– Brushed strokes
– Long side strokes
– Polished edges
Wheels
– Diamond chamfering
– Circular decorated faces
– Rhodium plating (before cutting the teeth) Minimal corrections applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance.
Richard Mille presents RM 07-02 Automatic Winding Sapphire, an ultra-feminine watch crafted from colored sapphire. After the immense success of their gem-set ceramic and Carbon TPT® watches, Richard Mille now comes with a colored sapphire case adorned with diamonds.
Sculpted from colored sapphire taken from a single block, the watch case features an elegant tonneau shape. Due to its extreme hardness, Sapphire is a material difficult to machine. Further, finishing and setting diamonds into a sapphire case are also challenging. Richard Mille has succeeded in both the above process thanks to the high-end watch manufacture’s expertise in dealing with innovative materials, technical know-how and uncompromising quality controls.
The watch houses the automatic movement Calibre CRMA5 in 18k 5N red gold or white gold and set with hundreds of diamonds. The skeletonised movement comes in micro blasted white gold for the green and blue sapphire versions, and in 5N red gold for the pink and brown sapphire versions.
The baseplate and the bridges of this haute-horlogerie movement are machined from 18K red gold or white gold, which is microblasted and bevelled by hand. The baseplate is decorated and set with hundreds of diamonds, an aesthetic feat achieved thanks to the long and delicate work of the gem setter. The skeletonised baseplate and bridges were subjected to separate and extensive validation tests to optimise their resistance capacities.
Beating at the rate of 28,800 vph (4 Hz), the movement provides a power reserve of up to 50 hours. The rotor allows to be set according to the owner’s activity level. The setting is modified by adjusting two weights that can be adjusted and fixed in place by spline screws. The inertia of the movement is increased when the two weights are closer to each other; the barrel then rewinds more quickly. If the weights are positioned at the extremities of the rotor, the inertia is decreased and the barrel winds more slowly.
This high-tech mechanical movement is fitted with a fast-rotating barrel. It diminishes the phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion, thereby increasing performance. This fast-rotating barrel also has an excellent mainspring delta curve with an ideal power reserve/performance and regularity ratio.
The entire going train of the watch, the primary transmitter of power to the movement, utilises a special profile for the wheel teeth with a 20˚ pressure angle. This system equalises any discrepancies that might arise between the centres of each wheel, for instance during thermal changes and normal use, and promotes an excellent transmission of torque to the balance wheel, thus supporting superior chronometric results.
This type of balance wheel represents the ultimate in innovation. It guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shocks or during movement assembly or disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index is eliminated, and a more accurate and repeatable calibration is possible thanks to 4 small, adjustable weights located directly on the balance.
The tonneau shaped case measures 32.90 x 46.75 x 14.35 mm. In some versions, the bezel is set with diamonds. Setting each element of the sapphire case is a real engineering feat requiring a laser operating to the nearest micrometre. In the diamond-set cases, Prongs in red or grey hand-polished gold, made separately, are then inserted, creating multiple settings to hold a delicate row of diamonds.
Maintaining transparency, the colored sapphire case allows you to admire all the details of the movement structure, finishing and the beautiful diamond setting of the interior. Depends upon the version, the watch dial is available in mother-of-pearl, jasper or pave-set stones.
Technical details
Movement
CALIBRE CRMA5
Skeletonised automatic-winding in-house movement
Hours, minutes and variable-geometry rotor
Baseplate, bridges and variable geometry rotor in gem-set 5N red gold
Power reserve: Circa 50 hours (± 10%).
Movement dimensions: 29.90 x 22.00 mm
Thickness: 5.05 mm
Number of jewels: 25
Balance: CuBe, 4 arms, 4 setting screws, moment of inertia 7.5 mg•cm 2, angle of lift 50°
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Balance spring: AK3
Shock protection: INCABLOC 908.22.211.100 (transparent)
Escapement wheel jewels: Rubifix (transparent)
• Heavy external outside edge and heavy edge ring in 5N red gold
• Weight segment in heavy metal
• Ceramic ball bearings
• Automatic OneWay® ceramic winding system with ball bearings
• Bidirectional winding system
Case
Colored sapphire (green, blue, pink or brown)
Dimensions: 32.90 x 46.75 x 14.35 mm
For the 8th edition of Only Watch, to be held on the 9th November in Geneva, Richard Mille is offering a prototype of the RM 11-03 McLaren, an automatic flyback chronograph watch created in close collaboration with the car manufacturer’s engineers.
The design director at McLaren, Rob Melville, and Richard Mille engineers combined their know-how to meet a technical challenge: integrating in this McLaren watch the curves both aesthetic and functional, specific to the manufacturer, along with their stylistic codes.
The case of the RM 11-03 McLaren is made of Carbon TPT® interlaced with Orange Quartz TPT®, resulting in an extremely resistant and light-weight housing that also pays tribute to the brand’s history in a colour that is synonymous with McLaren. The Carbon TPT® enhances the mechanical performance of the RM 11-03 and provides resistance in harsh environments.
The titanium pushers fitted to the Carbon TPT® case echo the distinctive headlamp design of the McLaren 720S. Titanium inserts, recalling the iconic McLaren F1’s air-intake snorkel and bearing the McLaren logo, adorn the bezel. The complex grade 5 titanium crown is shaped like a McLaren lightweight wheel. Meanwhile, the McLaren Speedmark logo is incorporated into the rubber strap specifically developed for this edition.
Under the bonnet of the RM 11-03 beats the automatic RMAC3 calibre, first launched in 2016, with a flyback chronograph that is ready to literally race on the track. The instant return of the counter to zero makes it possible to quickly restart the stopwatch function. Powered by two barrels mounted in parallel and a balance wheel with variable inertia, the movement has a 55-hour power reserve. Barrel winding is ensured by a variable-geometry rotor that enables personalised winding adjusted to the wearer’s activity level, further evidence of Richard Mille’s characteristic attentiveness.
The fact that a race car’s chassis must always exhibit tremendous torque resistance while remaining light in weight inspired the brand, which adopted these requirements as its own in producing the baseplate and bridges for this calibre, crafted of PVD-treated grade 5 titanium to ensure the requisite stiffness and perfect functioning of the going train. The satin-finish grade 5 titanium upper bridge further accentuates the depth of the calibre, creating a visual trajectory around the annual calendar and oversized date as well as the 12-hour chronograph and countdown counters.
In addition to the RM 11-03 McLaren prototype, the buyer will receive from McLaren a tailor-made official driver’s racing overall, a ‘Pure McLaren Experience’ driving day with test pilot Bruno Senna, as well as a private tour of the McLaren Technology Centre, their famous headquarters and production site in Woking, England.
Airbus Corporate Jets (ACJ) and Richard Mille have launched a new travel-watch, inspired by and adapted to, exclusive journeys on an Airbus corporate jet.
Called the RM 62-01 Tourbillon Vibrating Alarm ACJ1, the new watch’s innovative features include a discreet alarm that alerts the wearer through vibrations that only they can feel. The Vibrating Alarm complication was developed by Richard Mille with Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi. Its principle rests the automatic trigger, at the programmed time, of a vibrating signal produced by the rotation of an oscillating weight. Machined from a single piece of white gold, this weight is precisely calibrated to oscillate at 5,400 rpm.
Thanks to its dial and two hands, the alarm may be adjusted to the nearest minute of a full 24 hours, using the function selector situated at 3 o’clock. An on/off indicator at 5 o’clock completes the mechanism. The maximum duration of the vibration, which has a dedicated barrel, is 12 seconds. It can be recharged by pressing a 12 times on the pusher at 8 o’clock. The power reserve can be viewed on a scale situated at 7 o’clock.
A pusher located at the centre of the crown makes it possible to select among five different functions with a simple push: winding, hand setting, alarm setting, UTC setting and neutral position. A disc at 3 o’clock displays the selected mode against a light-coloured ground: N (Neutral) — W (winding) — T (time setting) — U (UTC hand setting) — A (Alarm setting). Located at 6 o’clock is a disc indicating whether the time displayed is Ante Meridiem (AM) or Post Meridiem (PM). Further, a semi-instantaneous oversize date display is placed in a red outlined horizontal aperture under 12 o’clock.
This new watch encapsulates the pioneering, proven and industry-leading expertise from two companies, known for delivering the highest standards and most exclusive customer experiences in their industries. An evolution of an earlier watch, it continues a partnership begun in 2016.
The announcement of this new watch was made alongside a 1/20th scale model of the ACJ320neo featuring a Melody cabin in unique Richard Mille livery, highlighting the link between the companies.
As with the previous watch collaboration, sketches of the new design were initially created by ACJ Head of Creative Design, Sylvain Mariat, with the watch being turned into reality by a team at Richard Mille, including Salvador Arbona, Technical Director for Movements.
The face of the new watch comprises titanium/Carbon TPT® that has been machined to represent the shape of an aircraft window, revealing different layers that echo the grain of the exotic wood typically found in corporate jet cabins. The crown-winder features engine fan blades, while the sides of the watch are reminiscent of intricate, sculpted, metal aircraft structure, as are miniature torque-set screws. Skeletonisation – a hallmark of Richard Mille watches – reveals the sophistication of the movement inside – visible through the transparent front and back.
The caseback and bezel are comprised of a first bezel in polished and satin-finished grade 5 titanium, to which is affixed a second bezel, just 1.80 mm in thickness, machined from Carbon TPT®. The caseband and pushers are also milled from Carbon TPT® enhanced with stiffeners in microblasted and polished grade 5 titanium. The case is assembled with 20 Torq-Set® screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion-resistant washers in 316L stainless steel. This type of screw is employed in the aerospace industry to ensure optimal control and transmission of torque.
The crown incorporates a special security system to prevent accidental over-winding, which could cause damage to the winding stem or place extreme pressure.
Technical details
Model: RM 62-01 TOURBILLON ACJ Limited edition of 30 pieces in titanium and Carbon TPT®
Movement
Calibre RM62-01
Manual winding tourbillon movement with hours, minutes, oversize date, UTC (Universal Time Coordinated), am/pm indicator, function selector, power-reserve indicator
Vibrating alarm function with on/off activation indicator
Power Reserve: Circa 70 hours (± 10%), indicated at 11 o’clock
Skeletonised Baseplate and Bridges Made of Grade 5 Titanium
Chronofiable® A8 certification
Free-sprung balance with variable inertia: The free-sprung balance at 9 o’clock offers increased reliability in the event of shocks and movement assembly or disassembly, thus achieving better chronometric results over time. The index has been eliminated, allowing more precise and repeatable adjustment using 4 setting screws.
Winding barrel teeth and third-wheel pinion with central involute profile: The wheel with a central developing profile and a pressure angle of 20° promotes rolling movement more effectively by compensating for variations in gear engagement, thus ensuring excellent torque transmission with a distinct improvement in performance.
– Movement dimensions: 31.92 x 31.99 mm
– Thickness: 7.75 mm
– Tourbillon diameter: 12.30 mm
– Balance wheel diameter: 10.00 mm
– Jewels: 77
– Balance: Glucydur®, with 2 arms and 4 setting screws
– Moment of inertia: 10 mg.cm2, angle of lift 53°
– Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
– Balance spring: elinvar by Nivarox®
– Shock protection: KIF Elastor KE 160 B28
– Barrel shaft in nickel-free Chronifer® (DIN x 46 Cr 13 + S), with the following characteristics: stainless – antimagnetic, suitable for tempering
Fast-Rotating Barrel (6 Hours Per Revolution Instead Of 7.5 Hours): This type of barrel provides the following advantages. The phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion is significantly diminished, thereby increasing performance. Provision of an excellent mainspring delta curve with an ideal power reserve/performance and regularity ratio
Barrel Pawl with Progressive Recoil: This device permits an appreciable winding gain (circa 20%), especially during the start of winding. It is also helpful in evenly distributing the mainspring’s internal tension.
Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium for the Bridges: This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
Finishing
Movement
– Hand-polished bevelling
– Hand-polished locking-sections
– Sunray brushing finishing on bridges
– Sapphire-microblasted milled sections
– Lapped and polished contact points
– Burnished pivots
Steel Parts
– Sapphire-blasted surfaces
– Anglage and polishing by hand
Wheels
– Concave chamfering with a diamond tool
– Circular finished faces
– Rhodium plating (before cutting the teeth)
– Minimal corrections applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance.
Unveiled at SIHH 2019 haute-horlogerie exhibition in Geneva, the Richard Mille Bonbon Collection comprises 10 models, each produced in an edition of 30 pieces. Composed of candies, pastries and fruit, these 10 horological treats once again subvert existing conventions, habits and expectations.
Displaying their mastery of expertise in the area of materials, colour and form, Richard Mille has taken the lid off a candy jar to reveal two kinds of confections for the wrist. Based on three of the brand’s iconic models, the RM 07-03, RM 16-01 and RM 37-01 offer a passage back to childhood with the simple pleasure of slightly regressive and thoroughly tasty memories, to be enjoyed without moderation.
Despite its disruptive appearance, the Richard Mille Bonbon Collection is directly descended from earlier Richard Mille creations. Take colour—the brand is continuously expanding its range. Forays into the spectrum of greens, crimson, yellow and even pink are possible thanks to a mastery of materials, many of them exclusive, that is a Richard Mille specialty.
The brand’s understanding of how tinted ceramics behave, expertise in layering materials like Carbon TPT® and Quartz TPT® and constant improvements to the setting of coloured gemstones are all ingredients in these confectionary recipes, which are singularly imaginative, playful, distinctive and, most importantly, appetizing. Lastly, a finely honed eye for detail makes these 10 models stunning graphic compositions that offer a wealth of shades and textures appearing in every component of the watch. The crowns and some of the caseband, for instance, take the shape of a particular treat, such as a cupcake or gelato.
The Sweets collection comprises four models, all with two-tone ceramic cases that set off their grand feu enamel or black-chromed titanium confections. The RM 07-03 Cupcake, RM 07-03 Marshmallow, RM 37-01 Sucette and RM 16-01 Réglisse are colourful and delectable, evoking a whole spectrum of flavours. Better yet, the textures you expect to encounter upon biting into these sweets are conjured visually thanks to a mastery of enamelwork that succeeds in evoking sensations like softness, crunchiness, and fluffiness.
The creamy quality of the TZP ceramic case is enhanced by the varied matt and polished effects of elements on the dial. Black, a foundational colour in the technical vocabulary of Richard Mille, is presented in a whole new light here, as a giant roll of liquorice that occupies the entire surface of a dial. Here, the most satisfactory solution for obtaining the liquorice shape of the RM 16-01 was a stamping operation, followed by a black chrome coating that lends this piece its spot-on colour and texture.
The Fruit line is a homage to the very concept of sweet temptation in six delectable flavours: Lemon and Strawberry (RM 16-01 Citron et Fraise), Blueberry and Litchi (RM 07-03 Myrtille et Litchi), Kiwi and Cherry (RM 37-01 Kiwi et Cerise).
In addition to colour-gradient cases made of Carbon TPT® combined with Quartz TPT® of a different hue for each model is an all-new turquoise colour. Painted in acrylics and lacquered by hand, the 3,000 miniature sculptures integrated in these compositions stand out from the dials, turning each one into a sachet full of tiny candies. To further enhance their realism, a ‘sugar coating’ effect was achieved using powdered enamel and the fine sand employed in hourglasses.
Tart jelly ribbons, twisty lollipops, candy citrus segments, gumdrops and other surprises are positioned on plates of grade 5 titanium that are machined and skeletonised like horological components.
Luxury Swiss watch brands Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille have announced the withdrawal of their partnership with the prestigious luxury watch event SIHH.
Audemars Piguet is ending its collaboration with the SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) after 19 years of partnership. The manufacture from Le Brassus will attend the SIHH for the last time in 2019.
The evolving nature of the watchmaking industry is such that Audemars Piguet’s business model is changing and the Manufacture has decided to explore new directions in order to forge closer and more direct relationships with end-clients and watch enthusiasts worldwide.
Richard Mille has also announced their withdrawal from the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) following the 2019 edition. The Richard Mille brand has developed considerably its international distribution network over the last few years, notably by opening a growing number of dedicated mono-brand boutiques.
In turn, it has drastically reduced its representation through multi-brand retailers in order to qualitatively satisfy a constant increase in demand. Consequently, the brand’s presence at exhibitions no longer corresponds to its strategy for exclusive and selective distribution.
Richard Mille has created its new timepiece, the RM 53-01 Tourbillon Pablo Mac Donough in partnership with Pablo Mac Donough, one of the world’s best polo players. Sporty and dynamic, this watch reveals a suspended tourbillon calibre, visible through the unprecedented laminated sapphire glass of its Carbon TPT® case.
That one of polo’s greatest champions should be able to wear a watch in the midst of play, and a tourbillon at that, is by no means a miracle. Rather, it bespeaks years of research and studies of how a wristwatch resists when confronted with violent blows. Experts in this area, the brand designed the RM 53-01 around a single goal: making it extremely tough, while unveiling its calibre.
Well aware that regular glass would not provide the necessary resistance to ward off the impact of a mallet, engineers for the brand, collaborating with Stettler – a world-renowned sapphire specialist – took inspiration from current practices in the automotive realm to produce a laminated glass.
Use of this glass, composed of two sheets of sapphire glass separated by a thin Polyvinyl film, constitutes a horological first. In the face of the strong shockwave produced by a blow from a mallet, the glass will crack, but without ever shattering. With anti-reflective and UV coatings, this glass, which preserves the movement from the external environment, is patented exclusively to Richard Mille.
Punctuated by notches that reinforce its structural integrity, the case is machined in Carbon TPT®, a fabulously tough and virtually indestructible protection, recognised for its excellent resistance to micro-cracks and tears. The characteristic damascene sheen of Carbon TPT® and sharp lines of the case speak to the especially sporty nature of this watch.
Shock is the enemy of a tourbillon movement. To solve this Richard Mille has created cable-suspended movement. The atypical architecture of this design required the creation of two separate baseplates. The first, or ‘peripheral’ baseplate, is fixed to the case and supports the tensioner mechanisms. The second, known as the ‘central’ baseplate, is linked to the peripheral baseplate by cables and incorporates the wheels comprising the calibre as well as the winding mechanism.
The central baseplate rests, like a spider in the middle of its web, on two braided steel cables just 0.27 mm in diameter. These cables, sketching a three-dimensional structure in their path through 10 pulleys, are anchored by 4 tensioners. The watchmaker is responsible for tensioning the cables by rotating a spline screw located at the centre of each tensioner. By ensuring an even distribution of tension, this pulley system guarantees perfect balance of the whole mechanism.
The suspended movement and the use of grade 5 titanium (double baseplate and bridges) contribute increased stiffness, while ensuring smooth functioning of the going train and optimal shock protection.
The RM 53-01 Tourbillon Pablo Mac Donough is a limited edition of 30 pieces in Carbon TPT®.
Technical details
Model: RM 53-01 MANUAL WINDING TOURBILLON – PABLO MAC DONOUGH Limited edition of 30 pieces
Movement
CALIBRE RM53-01: manual winding tourbillon movement with hours and minutes.
Dimensions: 44.50 x 49.94 x 16.15 mm
Power Reserve: Circa 70 hours (±10%)
DOUBLE SKELETONISED BASEPLATE WITH GRADE 5 TITANIUM BRIDGES: Grade 5 titanium is employed for the bridges and the highly atypical double baseplate construction, which consists of a first, ‘central’ baseplate that firmly holds together the various wheels of the calibre, and a second, ‘peripheral’ baseplate, attached to the central baseplate by cables and supporting the entire tensioner system. Grade 5 titanium is a biocompatible alloy used in aeronautics for its high resistance to corrosion, remarkable lightness, and low expansion coefficient. The suspended movement and this titanium comprised of 90% titanium, 6% aluminium and 4% vanadium together improve the strength of the movement, ensuring smooth functioning of the going train and optimal shock resistance. The skeletonised baseplate and the bridges were subjected to separate and extensive validation tests to meet rigorous strength requirements and offer an extreme weight/resistant ratio.
CABLE-SUSPENSION MECHANISM: The movement at the heart of the RM 53-01 rests on 2 braided steel cables just 0.27 mm in diameter. The tension of these cables is made possible by the 10 pulleys and 4 tensioners affixed to the peripheral baseplate and to each side of the main bridge. The cables run through the tackle pulley system and are attached to the tensioners on the other side. The watchmaker tensions the system by tightening a spline screw located at the centre of each tensioner. The pulleys ensure that the tension of the cable remains constant, and therefore that the system is balanced. Designed to sit suspended within the case, the calibre RM53-01 can withstand shocks exceeding 5,000 g’s.
FREE SPRUNG BALANCE WITH VARIABLE INERTIA: This type of balance wheel guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shocks and during assembly or dismantling of the movement, thus achieving better chronometric results over time. The index is eliminated, thereby allowing a more precise and repeatable adjustment using 4 setting screws.
FAST-ROTATING BARREL (6 hours per revolution instead of 7.5 hours): This type of barrel provides the following advantages:
• The phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion is significantly diminished, thereby increasing performance,
• An excellent mainspring delta curve with an ideal power reserve/performance and regularity ratio.
BARREL PAWL WITH PROGRESSIVE RECOIL: This device permits an appreciable winding gain (circa 20%), especially during the start of winding. It is also helpful in distributing the mainspring’s internal tension effectively.
WINDING-BARREL TEETH AND THIRD-WHEEL PINION WITH CENTRAL INVOLUTE PROFILE: The central involute profile of the winding-barrel teeth provides an optimal pressure angle of 20°, which promotes effective rotary motion and compensates for possible variations in the operation of the going train. This, in turn, ensures excellent torque transmission and a distinct improvement in performance.
SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE BRIDGES: The design of these screws permits better control of the torque applied during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
OTHER FEATURES
– Movement dimensions: 31.94 x 30.26 mm
– Thickness: 6.35 mm
– Tourbillon diameter: 12.40 mm
– Balance diameter: 10.00 mm
– Number of jewels: 19
– Balance wheel: Glucydur®, 2 arms and 4 setting screws
– Inertia moment: 11.50 mg.cm2, lift angle 53°
– Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
– Balance spring: elinvar by Nivarox®
– Shock protection: KIF Elastor KE 160 B28
– Barrel shaft in nickel-free Chronifer® (DIN x 46 Cr 13 + S) with the following properties: stainless – antimagnetic – suitable for tempering
Case
The tripartite case is crafted of Carbon TPT®, whose remarkable surface displays complex damascene patterns. Carbon TPT® consists of over 600 layers of parallel filaments obtained by separating carbon threads. With a maximum thickness of 30 microns, the Carbon TPT® layers are saturated with resin, then compiled on a special machine that modifies the orientation of the fibres between each layer by 45°. Once it has been heated to 120°C and subjected to a pressure of 6 bars, the Carbon TPT® is machined at Richard Mille’s factory. Carbon TPT® is renowned for its excellent resistance to micro-cracks and splits. The complete case construction is water-resistant to 50 metres thanks to two Nitrile O-rings, and is assembled using 20 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and 316L stainless steel washers.
SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE CASE: The design of these screws permits better control of the torque applied during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
LAMINATED SAPPHIRE GLASS: A new patented sapphire glass and a world premiere in the realm of watchmaking, the RM 53-01 is equipped with a glass of laminated sapphire crystal. In case of impact, this glass may crack, like a car’s windscreen, but under no circumstances shatter, thereby protecting the movement, as verified during impact pendulum testing, when a metal spike was added to the 4.5 kg weight. Comprised of two sheets of sapphire crystal separated by a Polyvinyl membrane, this glass is also protected by anti-UV and non-reflective coatings. Thickness: 2.40 mm at the centre; 5.69 mm at the edges.
TORQUE-LIMITING CROWN: This additional security system prevents accidental overwinding, which could cause damage to the winding stem or put extreme pressure on the mainspring barrel.
FLANGE: Titanium grade 5 with hour markers filled with approved luminescent material
Finishing
Movement
– Anglage and polishing by hand
– Shot-blasted milled sections
– Black and grey PVD treatment for the baseplates and bridges
Steel parts
– Microblasted surfaces
– Satin-finished surfaces
– Anglage and polishing by hand
– Long strokes
– Matte ‘brouillé’ strokes
– Polished sinks
Profile-turning
– Lapped and polished ends
– Burnished pivots
Wheels
– Diamond-polished sinks
– Circular decorations on the front surfaces
– Rhodium plating (before cutting the teeth)
– Minimal corrections are made to the wheels to preserve their geometry and overall performance.
Richard Mille presents the world’s lightest split-seconds tourbillon chronograph: the RM 50-03 McLAREN F1. This innovative technical masterpiece is a result of the luxury watch brand’s collaboration with the world renowned Formula 1 racing car manufacturer McLaren-Honda.
Housing a highly complex tourbillon chronograph movement, the RM 50-03 McLaren F1 weighs less than 40 grams – including the new strap – which makes it the lightest mechanical chronograph ever made. This landmark has been achieved through the use of cutting-edge technical materials. The design not only incorporates Titanium and Carbon TPT™, but also introduces an entirely new material into the world of watchmaking: Graph TPT™, more commonly known as graphene.
These new applications for the material emerged through research at the National Graphene Institute, established in 2015 at The University of Manchester. It’s where graphene was first isolated by Professor Andre Geim of the School of Physics and Astronomy, back in 2004. Six years later, the discovery earned its author the prestigious 2010 Nobel Prize in physics, alongside his colleague, Professor Konstantin Novoselov. Thanks to the collaborative work between The University of Manchester, McLaren Applied Technologies and North Thin Ply Technology (NTPT®), Richard Mille has succeeded in producing a watch case machined in an improved form of Carbon TPT™.
The carbon’s physical properties were significantly enhanced by the introduction of graphene, a revolutionary nano-material which is six times lighter than steel, and 200 times stronger. McLaren Technology Group and McLaren-Honda, which are currently working on integrating graphene into their Grand Prix cars, made it possible for the watchmaker to consider this material as a means to significantly low the density of their carbon composite while increasing its resistance. Convinced of the incredible advantages conferred by graphene, engineers at Richard Mille worked with those at North Thin Ply Technology to envision practical applications of the new material, and studied how to incorporate it into Carbon TPT™.
Noted for the beautiful, undulating striations of its surface, Carbon TPT™ is comprised of parallel filaments – 600 layers, in fact, whose maximum thickness is 30 microns. These are impregnated with a super-charged resin containing graphene, and are then compiled by a CNC machine that shifts the orientation of the fibres by 45° between layers. The composite is then solidified by heating it to 120°C, at 6 Bar of pressure. Numerous control and validation tests conducted by McLaren Applied Technologies have made it possible to develop the solutions that resulted in the production of Graph TPT™, a material employed exclusively by Richard Mille in the domain of watchmaking.
At the Richard Mille manufacturing facility, the team specialising in the machining of movement components and cases turned their attention to manipulating Graph TPT™— spending many long hours creating and programming cutting tools suitable for achieving precision to a micron. The resulting three-part case cedes ground nowhere, being both highly resistant and extremely light, while preserving perfect ergonomics and a unique, striking appearance.
For its part, the 7-gram movement completely deserves the qualifier ‘ultralight’. The secret to its feather weight lies in the use of grade 5 Titanium and Carbon TPT™ for the baseplate and bridges, and in the extreme skeletonisation of components. Likewise, the density, stiffness and low thermal conductivity of Titanium make it a material of choice in McLaren Racing’s Formula 1 engineering build programme, where it’s not only used to lighten and reinforce chassis and aerodynamic elements, but also to produce gearboxes, connecting rods and valve systems.
Watchmaking expertise can be found throughout this movement with drawn, polished, satin-finished and soft-polished surfaces all created by hand. For example, each grade 5 titanium dial requires 3 hours of anglage and polishing to highlight its edge. Other parts, such as the barrel-drum, the minute-wheel and the small and large medium-wheel are circular grained both above and below then hand-beveled and rhodium plated before the teeth are cut A transverse cage, crafted of Carbon TPT™ and inspired by the wishbone suspension structure of a McLaren-Honda Formula 1 car, is affixed to the caseband, and supports the entire RM50-03 calibre. By eliminating the casing ring, this unusual architecture enables a perfect fit between the movement and case. Taken together, these technical solutions provide the complex calibre with tremendous resistance properties.
The RM 50-03 McLaren F1 chronographic combines a tourbillon escapement with a split-seconds function. In order to perform without fail, the combination of these two complications within a single mechanism demands perfect transfers of energy. The ensuing need to reduce friction led to research on how to improve the profiling of the teeth on the barrel and gear train. The result is superbly balanced torque and optimised yield.
The movement’s performance and the quality of the energy delivered can be easily read via coloured indicators denoting the 70-hour energy reserve and torque sensor. The hollow pushers of the chronograph are representative of the air intake ducts on the McLaren-Honda car, while the shape of the crown takes its cue from the racing competition wheel rims used by the British team.
Design of a new split-seconds mechanism and extensive research on the work of the split-seconds clamps have permitted a 50% reduction in the chronograph’s energy consumption, while at the same time reducing arbor friction. The 6-column wheel that controls the various rockers for the split-seconds function was designed to guarantee flawlessly simultaneous movement, clean function lock, and highly stable settings.
The extraordinary properties of graphene encouraged the manufacture to pursue additional developments. Richard Mille’s strap supplier, BIWI S.A., incorporated this nano-material into the rubber strap of the RM 50-03 to increase its elasticity and resistance to wear.
The RM 50-03 McLaren F1 will be produced in a numbered limited edition of 75 pieces and will be available only at Richard Mille boutiques. Each watch will be accompanied by a 1:5 scale model of the McLaren-Honda racing car driven in 2017 by Double-World Champion Fernando Alonso and Stoffel Vandoorne.
Technical details Movement NEW SPLIT-SECONDS SYSTEM: The RM50-03 calibre introduces a latest-generation split-seconds mechanism developed by the Richard Mille engineers. The new column wheel operates the different levers of the split-seconds function and optimises the chronograph’s operation. While previous Richard Mille chronographs have traditionally featured a wheel with 8 columns, the one equipping the RM 50-03 now only has 6 columns to ensure optimised simultaneous movement, maximal function locking, and greater adjustment durability. In-depth studies carried out on the function of clamps also led to a new clamp design. The helical spring has also been replaced by a blade on the split seconds wheel of the RM 50-03, a technical decision that reduces the variation in torque when the split-seconds function is activated. All of these developments have considerably improved the timekeeping performance of this tourbillon calibre and have halved the chronograph’s energy consumption while reducing friction on the arbors.
Use: the pusher at 8 o’clock starts or stops the seconds hand of the chronograph. The pusher at 4 o’clock stops the split seconds hand and allows an intermediary time to be read off while the chronograph is engaged. When this pusher is pressed again, the split-seconds hand catches up with the chronograph hand and simultaneously continues its course. The pusher at 10 o’clock resets the hands.
TORQUE INDICATOR: This function indicates the tension of the mainspring and makes it possible to optimise the winding of the watch. Under 53 dNmm, the spring is too slack. However, over 65 dNmm, the excessive tension could affect the operation of the mechanism, or even damage it. (These indications appear on the numeric scale to the right of the barrel).
FUNCTION INDICATOR: When the crown is pulled out, the hand indicates winding, hand setting or the neutral position, similar to the gearbox on a car. A hand at 4 o’clock displays the selected mode: W (Winding) – N (Neutral) – H (Hand Setting).
FREE SPRUNG BALANCE WITH VARIABLE INERTIA: This type of balance ensures greater reliability in the event of impact and during the assembly and disassembly of the movement. The watch’s long-term precision is therefore improved. The regulator index has been removed and more precise and repeatable inertia adjustment can now be made using four adjustable weights.
FAST ROTATING BARREL: (6 hours per revolution instead of 7.5 hours)
This type of barrel has the following advantages:
– The phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion is significantly diminished, thereby improving performance.
– Excellent delta of the mainspring curve with a power reserve that ideally balances performance and regularity.
BARREL PAWL WITH PROGRESSIVE RECOIL: This device permits an appreciable winding gain (circa 20%), especially at the start of winding. It also helps to distribute the internal tension of the mainspring correctly.
TEETH OF BARREL AND THIRD WHEEL PINION WITH CENTRAL INVOLUTE PROFILE: The central involute profile of these teeth exerts pressure at an optimal angle of 20°, which enhances the efficiency of the gear train and compensates for any potential variations in penetration. This results in excellent torque transmission and a noticeably improved performance.
MODULAR HAND SETTING MECHANISM ON CASEBACK: This presents the following benefits in terms of longevity and maintenance:
– As this module is assembled outside of the movement, it can be replaced without touching the baseplate during a procedure or maintenance operation.
– The assembly and disassembly of this module from the back does not require the removal of the hands nor the dial.
SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE BRIDGES: The design of these screws permits better control of the torque applied during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
Other Features
– Dimensions of the movement: 31.10 mm x 32.15 mm
– Thickness: 9.92 mm
– Diameter of the tourbillon: 12.40 mm
– Diameter of the balance: 10 mm
– Number of jewels: 43
– Balance wheel: Glucydur, 2 arms and 4 setting screws
– Inertia moment: 10 mg.cm2, lift angle 53°
– Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
– Balance spring: elinvar by Nivarox®
– Shock protection: KIF Elastor KE 160 B28
– Barrel shaft in nickel-free Chronifer (DIN x 46 Cr 13 + S) with the following properties: stainless – antimagnetic – suitable for tempering
Bezel and Case Back
Bezel side: sapphire crystal (1,800 Vickers) with anti-reflective treatment (on both sides)
Thickness: 1.10 mm
Case back side: sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment (on both sides)
Thickness: 1.00 mm
Strap RUBBER STRAP INJECTED WITH GRAPHENE: Thanks to Richard Mille’s partnership with BIWI SA, a Swiss company specialised in very-high-precision moulding of vulcanised elastomers, graphene was injected into the rubber strap of the RM 50-03 in order to improve its rubber-like behaviour and thus its resistance to wear.
Finishes Movement
– Hand-polished bevelling
– Hand-polished locking-sections
– Sapphire-microblasted milled sections
– Lapped and polished contact points
– Burnished pivots Steel Parts
– Wire-drawn and microblasted surfaces
– Hand-polished bevelling Wheels
– Concave chamfering with a diamond tool
– Circular-decorated front surfaces
– Rhodium-plating (before cutting the teeth)
– Minimal corrections made to the wheels to preserve their geometry and overall performance
RICHARD MILLE has created a limited edition timepiece in association with world renowned graffiti artist, Cyril Kongo. In the new RM 68-01 Tourbillon Cyril Kongo watch, its mechanical heart, a highly complex tourbillon calibre serves as a canvas for the inspiration and creativity of street artist Cyril Kongo.
Never before has a work of art thus taken shape on the bridges and base-plate of a watch, becoming a truly integral part of the timepiece. Richard Mille and Kongo succeeded in taking an art essentially associated with large-scale urban murals and translating it for the horological world of micromechanics and precision, thereby making a leap from city walls to bridges, base-plates and sapphire dials of watchmaking.
It took more than a year to develop the painting technique used by Kongo. A special airbrush was developed to allow the artist to spray his colours with the utmost delicacy, one droplet at a time. To avoid jeopardising the calibre’s equilibrium, essential to its functioning, the weight of the paint had to be strictly determined beforehand. This significant challenge involving all the teams collaborating on the RM 68-01 project resulted in the creation of a unique palette of brightly coloured indelible paints that adhere perfectly to the titanium components and can endure assembly and dismantling.
This production technique made it possible to draw lines barely visible to the naked eye and impossible to create directly by hand, even if certain motifs were sketched using pens with especially fine nibs. Regardless of the technique, every component of each watch was painted in the hues of the man known as Mr Colourful.
The RM 68-01 demanded that Kongo rethink his approach to graffiti in order to adapt his artistic vocabulary for the extremely limited surface of a calibre. His real triumph lies how he makes it possible to contemplate his work from every aspect of the piece.
On the back of the watch we see the central form of the tourbillon movement’s base-plate radiating outwards like a splash of paint physically thrown against a wall, while from the front the different movement bridges can be seen arcing in different directions like the wild brushstrokes found in street art murals. Housed within a case comprising an NTPT Carbon case band with black ceramic bezels, the asymmetric case design tapers in two directions—in thickness from 9 to 3o’clock and in height between 12 and 6 o’clock. The RM 68-01 combines contemporary mechanical and visual arts in a truly exceptional expression of 21st century timekeeping.
Known internationally under the pseudonym Cyril Kongo, the graffiti artist Cyril Phan was born in 1969 and presently resides in Paris. A self-made man and artist, he launched himself to the top of the French artistic and cultural world as well as Europe and beyond within a space of a just a decade. His mastery of the discipline and his over twenty years of membership in the MAC CREW collective have established him as one of the legendary, major representatives of the world’s graffiti scene. Over the course of time, he has developed and expanded his artistic vision and approach cumulating in a fully articulate artistic maturity not defined merely by graffiti. Inspired by frescos and wall paintings, he has, in essence, transformed graffiti as a genre.
Technical details
Model: Tourbillon Richard Mille RM 68-01 Cyril Kongo
Limited edition of 30 pieces
Movement
Caliber RM 68-01: Manual winding tourbillon movement with hours and minutes
Skeletonized Base-plate and Bridges in Grade 5 Titanium: The base-plate and the bridges have been finished in grade 5 titanium, a biocompatible, highly corrosion-resistant and remarkably rigid alloy, which enables the gear train to function effortlessly. The alloy is 90% titanium, 6% aluminium and 4% vanadium. This combination enhances its mechanical properties, which explains its frequent use in the aerospace, aeronautical and automobile industries. The skeletonized base-plate and the bridges have been subjected to intensive and complete validation tests to optimize their strength and resilience.
Hand Painted Movement: The RM68-01 caliber is entirely hand-painted by Cyril Kongo and treated with spray paint in his highly developed graffiti style, guaranteeing a unique visual impact never before found combined with an exceptional haute horlogerie tourbillon at this level. Each watch is individually taken to hand by the artist, creating a unique timepiece. On the back of the watch, the central form of the tourbillon movement’s base-plate radiating outwards like a splash of paint physically thrown against a wall, and from the front the different movement bridges can be seen arcing indifferent directions like the wild brushstrokes found in street art murals.
Free Sprung Balance with Variable Inertia: A free sprung balance with variable inertia and a terminal-curve spring guarantees greater reliability in case of impacts as well as providing superior long-term chronometric results.
Fast Rotating Barrel: (6 hours per revolution instead of 7.5 hours)
This type of barrel has the following advantages:
– The phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion is significantly diminished and performance is thus enhanced,
– Provision of an excellent mainspring delta curve with an ideal power reserve/performance and regularity ratio.
Barrel Pawl with Progressive Recoil: This device permits an appreciable winding gain (circa 20 %), especially during the start of winding. It also aids in the even distribution of the mainspring’s internal tension.
Winding Barrel Teeth and Third-Wheel Pinion with Central Involute Profile: The wheel with a central developing profile and a pressure angle of 20° promotes rolling movement more effectively, compensates differences between centers, ensures excellent torque transmission and provides a distinct improvement in performance.
Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium for the Bridges: These screws age well and enable better control of the applied torque during initial assembly and disassembly during servicing.
Other Features
Movement dimensions: 30.50 mm x 28.70 mm
Thickness: 8.39 mm
Tourbillon diameter: 10.90 mm
Balance wheel diameter: 10.00 mm
Number of jewels: 19
Power reserve: Circa 42 hours (±10%).
Balance wheel: Glucydur, with 2 arms and 4 setting screws, moment of inertia 11.50 mg.cm2, angle of lift 53°
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Balance spring: ELINVAR by Nivarox®
Shock protection: KIF ELASTOR KE 160 B28
Barrel shaft in nickel-free Chronifer (DIN x 46 Cr 13 + S), with the following characteristics: stainless – non-magnetic – tempered
Case Dimensions
50.24 x 42.70 x 15.84 mm
Case Material
TZP black ceramic was chosen for the RM 68-01‘s bezel and caseback. This low-density material (6g/cm3) is highly scratch-resistant and has a low thermal conductivity coefficient. Constituted of 95% yttrium-stabilised zirconium, TZP has a pronounced grain that provides the perfect finish. A long and difficult machining and grinding process using diamond tools is necessary to create the complex forms of the bezel and caseback, which are given a final matt surface finish. The case band is in NTPT carbon, a material composed of multiple layers of parallel filaments obtained by dividing carbon fibers. These layers, with a maximum thickness of 30 microns, are impregnated with resin, then woven on a special machine that modifies the direction of the weft by 45° between layers. Heated to 120°C at a pressure of 6 bars, the NTPT is then ready for machining. When compared to composite materials, whose exceptional physical properties are already well known, NTPT® carbon improves breaking strains by 25% and the occurrence of micro-cracks by 200%.The RM 68-01 case is water resistant to 50 meters. The asymmetric case design tapers two directions – in thickness from 9 to 3 o’clock and in height from 12 to 6 o’clock. It is assembled with of 20 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion-resistant washers in 316L stainless steel.
Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium for the Case: This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
Torque Limiting Crown
This additional security system prevents from accidental over-winding, which could cause damage to the winding stem or putting extreme pressure on the mainspring barrel.
Flange
Upper flange in grade 5 titanium with black galvanic treatment and hand painted by Cyril Kongo
Crystal
Bezel side: in sapphire (1,800 Vickers) with anti-glare coating (on both sides); Thickness: 1,50 mm
Case back: in sapphire with anti-glare coating (on both sides); Thickness: 1.20 mm at the centre and 1.95 mm at the outer edges
Hands
In metal, rhodium plated and satin finished by hand
Finishing Movement
– Baseplate and bridges in grade 5 titanium micro-blasted
– Hand-polished beveling
– Micro-blasted milled sections
– Stretched upper surfaces
– Polished sinks
– Hand painted by Cyril Kongo Steel Parts
– Wire-drawn and micro-blasted surfaces
– Hand-polished beveling
– Long strokes above
– Long strokes on sides
– Polished sinks Profile-Turning
– Polished and lapped ends
– Burnished pivots Wheels
– Hand painted by Cyril Kongo
– Concave chamfering with a diamond tool
– Circular decorations on the front surfaces
– Gilding (before cutting the teeth)
– Minimal corrections are made to the wheels to preserve their geometry and overall performance
Launched at SIHH 2016, the RM 67-01 Automatic Extra Flat follows the footsteps of one of the iconic timepieces from Richard Mille: the RM 010 Automatic.
The mechanical aspect of creating a thin automatic has its own set of particular difficulties, but one of the dual challenges is to combine this type of movement design with the creation of a sense of visual depth within the movement – a central tenet to Richard Mille’s approach. The extreme use of skeletonisation in the RM 67-01 carries many clues in this respect, however a new approach to the dial construction carries the eyes from the edges of the bezel in three layers to the central area’s hour and minute hands.
The numerals in this new model have been created from solid metal and mounted on two linked and rigid titanium rails attached directly to the movement. The vertical date window, now moved to the right side of the dial at 5 o’clock.
The automatic movement CRMA6 created for the RM 67-01 is a new calibre of only 3.6mm thickness, designed in house by the engineers in Les Breuleux. The baseplate and bridges have been created from grade 5 titanium and finished with a combination of gray and black electroplasma treatment, with a winding rotor weight in platinum. The back of the movement continues the extra attention to creating a sense of depth with extensive skeletonisation visible everywhere, including the large open worked winding barrel, rotor, going train and automatic winding mechanism bridges. The modern architecture of the movement bares itself in a mechanical story; even the 3 slotted screws on the dial side signal to the watchmaker that they turn in opposite directions to the standard direction and the extensive use of custom made torque screws seen throughout the movement ensure exact and codified application of their correct tensioning according to function and use.
At the heart of the movement’s structural design is the use of involute profiles for the entire going train, instead of the standard cycloidal shaped teeth as normally used in watchmaking. Such profiles can be found in transmissions of cars and many highly efficient motors of all kinds; however their use in the field of watchmaking is rare and exceptional. Such teeth profiles allow for a more efficient transfer of energy through the going train, thus providing superior chronometric results.
Between 1 and 2 o’clock, the function indicator for Winding, Date and Hand setting can be seen. Although this new timepiece is an automatic winding timepiece, it will require a little bit of winding when used for the first time or after having not been worn for a few days. The indicator moves as the crown is pulled out, thus taking the guesswork out of choosing a function only by touch or the number of ‘clicks’ as one moves the crown in and out.
Its refined dimensions require more time to create than other similar cases in the collection, adding up to almost 6 hours of pure machining time, not counting weeks of preliminary preparation such as the 68 different stamping operations required for the bezel, caseband and back bezel. The machine tooling process requires 8 days of adjusting the machines for the bezel, 5 days for the caseband and 5 days for the back bezel. Prior to this process, developing a methodology for carrying out this series of operations took 145 hours, the drawings for the tools 130 hours, and implementation 180 hours. Each case represents more than 215 separate machining operations.
After completion of this machining phase, the watch case will undergo brushing and polishing, all executed by hand, then assembly with sapphire glass and sealants to undergo a preliminary water resistance testing, before being disassembled and undergoing a final quality control. Only then will the movement be mounted within its subtle lines. All of these operation represent a total of another 8 hours of work, making the Richard Mille tonneau case one of the most time consuming and complex cases created in Switzerland today.
Unveiled at SIHH 2016, the Richard Mille RM 50-02 ACJ Tourbillon Split Seconds Chronograph draws its inspiration from aeronautical designs and innovations. ACJ stands for Airbus Corporate Jets.
To create this exclusive timepiece, Richard Mille has partnered with Airbus, a world leader in the application of novel approaches to aeronautical design, in particular those aircraft created for personal clients by its Airbus Corporate Jets (ACJ) unit.
The RM 50-02 Tourbillon Split Seconds Chronograph was designed by Sylvain Mariat, Head of ACJ’s Creative Design Studio in association with Julien Boillat and Salvador Arbona of Richard Mille R&D Office.
The RM 50-02 Tourbillon Split Seconds Chronograph makes use of advanced, open worked design elements in the internal design of bridges and base-plate in grade 5 titanium, along with an extensive application of skeletonisation to every possible area, offering significant weight reduction. A number of parts within the movement have been coated with a distinctive, special aeronautical coating normally used to protect engine and chassis parts from corrosion and environmental conditions.
This timepiece offers a visually breathtaking and dramatic view of the technical interior of the split seconds chronograph movement which also technical repercussions such as the elimination of the initial jump of the chronograph seconds hand during starting and stopping, with new split seconds components also in titanium additionally lowering the chronograph’s energy consumption through the reduction of internal friction.
The new RM50-02 tourbillon calibre also hosts a power reserve indicator (70 hours) between 11 and 12 o’clock, a torque indicator that supplies information about the tension of the mainspring allowing the optimisation of the chronometer function and a function indicator to show the watch’s state in each of the positions for winding, neutral and Hand setting.
The very distinctive and novel case shape in Titanium-Aluminum alloy (TiAl) with a secondary ceramic bezel was developed to mirror the outlines of an ACJ’s typical window shape with a clearly visible, multilayered hull structure surround. This Titanium-Aluminum is the same alloy as that used in the Airbus for its jet turbine blades, which must function safely under the convergence of high temperatures and high fields of pressure, thus requiring a very strong and highly stress resistant material. A premiere for the brand, this is also the first time the iconic Richard Mille screws around the outer edge of the bezel have been replaced by Torq set® screws with their distinctively shaped head slots, and a jet engine inspired crown bearing an engraved, wave patterned Airbus logo.
The tourbillon RM 50-02 ACJ is a limited edition of 30 pieces, only available in the Richard Mille boutiques.
Presented this year, the RM 35-02 is the first piece to feature an automatic calibre in the iconic Rafael Nadal collection, the exclusive, contemporary wristwatch series jointly developed by RICHARD MILLE and the Spanish tennis champion.
Since 2008, the name ‘Nadal’ graces a unique collection of Richard Mille watches that are synonymous with innovation, lightness and shock-resistance. Each of the models they have designed together—from the first RM 027 with its carbon nano-tubes case in 2010, to the cable-suspended movement of the RM 27-01, or the most recent iteration, the RM 27-02 with its NTPT Carbon ‘unibody’ base-plate—has embodied a major leap forward in terms of research and development, bearing witness to what could well be described as an entirely new, structural approach to watchmaking.
Like its predecessors, the RM 35-02 Rafael Nadal is the result of a constant quest for innovation within a unique design. Powered by the new RMAL1 calibre, the base plate and bridges wet-sandblasted grade 5 titanium, which has been PVD/Titalyt® treated and stretched to ensure supreme rigidity and impeccably smooth surfaces. Its variable inertia balance wheel oscillates at 28,800 vph, and is driven by a double-barrel system for greater torque stability. Inspired by the RM 35-01, the RM 35-02 emerged in response to a request from many Richard Mille customers for a self-winding mechanism at the heart of a Nadal calibre. The decision to use the brand’s patented variable geometry rotor—a real emblem of Richard Mille’s automatic movements—was an obvious one that makes it possible to adjust the winding to suit the wearer’s activities. In another first for the Nadal collection, the caseback is protected by a sapphire crystal sporting an anti-reflective treatment so that the calibre may be admired from every angle.
The automatic RM 35-02 Rafael Nadal is available in either NTPT Carbon or a daring bright Quartz TPT® Red with white highlights. Its silicon layers—each no thicker than 45 microns—are treated with a red resin that has been specially created for Richard Mille, then layered using an automatic system that changes the direction of the fibres in each layer by 45°. Heated under pressure at 120°C in an autoclave similar to those used for aeronautical components, the material is ready to be worked by ProArt, the manufacturer dedicated to the machining of Richard Mille components and cases.
The natural white quartz fibre, which is left undyed as per watchmaking custom, offers a very high resistance/weight ratio, non-allergenic properties and excellent UV resistance. But the true triumph of the engineers at Richard Mille and North Thin Ply Technology resides in the development of a red resin that draws a stark contrast with the natural white of the quartz and its transparent resin.
Designed for maximum biocompatibility, stability and resistance and compliant with REACH (Registration, Evaluation and Authorisation of Chemicals) standards, the Quartz-TPT® Red adorning the RM 35-02 can withstand accelerations of up to 5,000 g’s.
Technical details
Model: Automatic Rafael Nadal RM 35-02
Movement
CALIBRE RMAL1: automatic winding skeletonised movement with hours, minutes, seconds.
Base plate Bridges And Balance Cock Made In Grade 5 Titanium: The manufacture of these components in grade 5 titanium with black PVD treatment allows the whole assembly o be given great rigidity, as well as precise surface flatness, essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train. The skeletonised base plate and the bridges have been subjected to intensive and complete validation tests in order to optimise their stress resistance
Rotor with Variable Geometry
– Arm in grade 2 titanium
– Flange in grade 5 titanium
– 6-positional adjustment via grade 5 titanium screws
– Ribs in 18k white gold, high palladium content
– Weight segment in white gold
– Ceramic ball bearings
– Unidirectional; anti-clockwise winding direction
This exclusive RICHARDMILLE design allows the rewinding of the mainspring to be adapted most effectively to the user’s activity level with in sports or leisure environments. By adjusting the six positional setting of the rib’s placement, the rotor’s inertia is modified, either speeding up the winding process in the case of minimal arm and hand movements, or slowing it down when intensive activity sports are pursued.
Free Sprung Balance with Variable Inertia: Guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shock and also during movement assembly and disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index has been eliminated, thus guaranteeing a more accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible thanks to 4 small adjustable weights located directly on the balance.
Double Barrel System: The double barrel system contributes to the torque stability over a longer period. This is achieved by dispersing the stored energy within two winding barrels, equalizing torque as well as reducing friction on the bearings and pivots resulting in improved long-term performance.
Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium for the Bridges: This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
Other Features
Dimensions: 30.25×28.45mm
Thickness: 3.15mm
Jewels: 32
Power Reserve: Circa 55 hours(±10%)
Barrel arbor–in AP20 steel
Balance: Glucydur, 2 arms and 4 setting screws, inertia moment 4.8mg.cm2, angle of lift 53°
Frequency: 28’800vph (4Hz)
Balance spring: elinvar
Shock protection: INCABLOC 908.22.211.100 (transparent)
Escapement wheel jewels: Rubifix (transparent)
Stem with two positions: manual winding and time setting
Case Dimensions
49.94 x 44.50 x 13.15mm
Case Material
Case In NTPT Carbon Or Quartz-TPT ®Red : NTPT Carbon and Quartz-TPT® Red are exclusive material with a unique appearance. Their remarkable surface displays extremely regular undulations, as they are composed of multiple layers of parallel filaments obtained by dividing carbon fiber or silica threads. These layers, with a maximum thickness of 45 microns, are impregnated with resin then woven on a special machine that modifies the direction of the weft by 45° between layers (Quartz-TPT® layers are saturated in a red resin developed specially for Richard Mille). Heated to 120° C at a pressure of 6 bars, these materials are then ready to be processed on a CNC machine in Richard Mille’s ProArt case factory. The case of the RM35-02 is water resistant to 50meters, ensured by two Nitril O-ring seals. The case is assembled with 20 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in 316L stainless steel.
Crown
In NTPT Carbon with O ring seal in Alcryn.
Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium for the Case
This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
Interior Flanges
Upper flange in black carbon fiber, the hours index points filled with approved luminous material.
Movement
Base plate wet sand blasted grade 5 titanium, PVD treated and hand-drawn after treatment
Bridges in hand-ground grade 5 titanium, wet sand blasted and Titalyt ® treated
Locking sections hand polished
Burnished pivots
Pinions with undercuts
Sand blasted and rhodium-plating, bevelled wheels (before cutting the teeth)
Minimum corrections applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance
Steel Parts
Screw slot and screw bevelled and polished with rounded and polished tip
Straight line grain finish of the upper surface
Lower surfaces micro-blasted
Hand-polished sinks
Last year, after receiving many requests, Richard Mille presented its very first gold bracelet for two ladies models, the RM 07-01 and the RM 037 to complement the large offerings of straps in all kinds of leather, silk, rubber, alligator…
For 2015, the Jura-based Company present yet another precious metal bracelet, the ‘Open Link’. Each piece of this new bracelet is hand-made and hand finished.
Each link is micro-blasted, satin-brushed and polished. Comfort has always been one of the brand’s top priorities. The development and the testing concerning this strap have resulted in a very ergonomic bracelet that is a pleasure to wear. It is a combination of aesthetic appeal and perfect integration.
The Open link strap offers women a very light, airy and flexible type of bracelet with a more casual appearance. The Open Link strap is exclusively designed for the RM 07-01 and the RM 037, and fully fits with the goal of offering an exceptional variety of watches and accessories – created in the highest quality available in the world – to the customers.
The new RM 19-02 Tourbillon Fleur epitomizes the highest traditions of horological artistry in a vibrant expression of watchmaking distinctive to Richard Mille’s vision of timekeeping in the 21st century.
For the creation of this timepiece a special flower, the Magnolia, was chosen as its existence marks millions of years on the earth even before the emergence of bees within the environment, flowering in an endless cycle of birth and regeneration. The Magnolia’s delicate appearance stands in sharp contrast to its strong organic structure and resilience in difficult environments.
At the lower left of the dial on the RM 19-02 we see the Magnolia surrounding a flying tourbillon escapement with five delicate, hand created and colored petals. Working either in passing, or on demand using the pusher at 9 o’clock, the Magnolia opens and closes with rhythmic regularity in a delicate kinetic ballet.
The Magnolia does not just open, the entire flying tourbillon with its stone set stamen actually moves upwards 1mm when fully opened, exactly copying the natural motion of the flower’s arching upwards of its stamen to increase its chances of pollination. Attention to details such as these exemplify the Richard Mille approach to watchmaking artistry on every level.
For those interested in the technical mastery behind this unique grade 5 titanium tourbillon caliber, a complex mechanism comprising 5 levers surrounds the underside of the petals, and yet another system combined with a long pinion is used to raise the flying tourbillon and stamen upwards within the flower’s circumference – all using energy supplied by a separate, second winding barrel. As an added attention to the tiniest details, it is even possible to adjust the opening and closing cycle.
The RM 19-02 Fleur is limited to a production of 30 pieces worldwide.
Technical details
Model: RM 19-02 TOURBILLON FLEUR
Limited edition of 30 pieces
Dimensions: 45.40 x 38.30 x 12.55 mm
Movement
CALIBER RM19-02: manual winding tourbillon movement with hours, minutes and automaton mechanism.
Power Reserve: Circa 36 hours (±10%)
Base plate and bridges in grade 5 titanium
The skeletonized baseplate, entirely hand-engraved with a floral pattern, has been subjected to intensive and complete validation tests to optimize their resistance capacities.
FLYING TOURBILLON
Positioned at 7 o’clock, the flying tourbillon is a complex regulating mechanism. The distinctive feature of the so-called “flying” tourbillon is that its cage is assembled without an upper bridge, thus creating the impression of weightlessness, and offering perfect visibility. The center of the tourbillon gracing the RM 19-02 is set with precious stones to symbolize the stamens of the magnolia flower.
VARIABLE INERTIA, FREE SPRUNG BALANCE
The free-sprung balance gives better reliability in the event of shocks, movement assembly and disassembly, and also guarantees better chronometric results over an extended period of time.
BARREL PAWL WITH PROGRESSIVE RECOIL
This device permits an appreciable winding gain (circa 20 %), especially during the start of winding.
It also aids in the even distribution of the mainspring’s internal tension.
AUTOMATON MECHANISM
The RM 19-02 features an automaton mechanism at 7 o’clock. Evoking a magnolia, the five petals in 18K gold open every five minutes to reveal the flying tourbillon. When the petals open, the flying tourbillon rises slightly to showcase all of its components. Pressing the pusher at 9 o’clock also enables theopening of the flower to be controlled manually. The automaton is powered independently from the watch by an auxiliary gear train linked to a second barrel dedicated exclusively to this complication.
SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE BRIDGES
This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
OTHER FEATURES
– Movement dimensions: 31.50 x 29.62 mm
– Thickness: 5.72 mm
– Tourbillon diameter: 11.10 mm
– Balance wheel diameter: 10.00 mm
– Number of jewels: 40
– Balance: GLUCYDUR, 2 arms, 4 setting screws, inertia moment 10 mg.cm2, angle of lift 53º
– Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
– Balance spring: ELINVAR by Nivarox®
– Shock protection: KIF ELASTOR KE 160 B28
– Jewels set in white gold chatons
– Barrel shaft in nickel-free chronifer (DIN x 46 Cr 13 + S) with the following characteristics: stainless-antimagnetic-suitable for tempering
CASE
In the world of horology, the Richard Mille watchcase is considered as the most difficult to manufacture. This tripartite tonneau-shaped case is fully curved, which enables the watch to be ergonomic and comfortable but is time consuming during its production and requires a high level of quality control. Both front and back curves are part of the Richard Mille watch case regard less of their shapes(tonneau, round, rectangular). These curving bezels with their characteristic shape demand ultimate precision with no stress in the metal. These manufacturing specifications required one year of research and development.
The specific tonneau shape of the RM 19-02 requires 47 stamping operations including 21 only for preparation. Tooling takes 4 hours and the RM 19-02 is obtained after 250 milling operations. The finishing process requires a full day for grinding, glazing and polishing. The tripartite case is water resistant to 50 meters, ensured by two Nitril O-ring seals. The case is assembled with 12 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in 316L stainless steel.
SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE CASE
This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
TORQUE LIMITING CROWN
This additional security system prevents from accidental overwinding, which could cause damage to the winding stem or put extreme pressure on the mainspring barrel.
CRYSTAL
Bezel side: in sapphire (1,800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (both sides). Thickness: 1.20 mm
Caseback: in sapphire with anti-glare treatment (both sides). Thickness: at the center 1.00 mm and outer edges 1.73 mm
FINISHING MOVEMENT
– Anglage and polishing by hand
– Locking sections hand polished
– Sapphire blasted milled sections
– Lapped and polished contact points
– Burnished pivots
– PVD treatment
STEEL PARTS
– Sapphire blasted surfaces
– Satin finished surfaces
– Anglage and polishing by hand
– Burnished sections
GEAR WHEELS
– Concave chamfering with a diamond tool
– Circular finished faces
– Gilded (before cutting the teeth)
– Minimum correction applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance
At Richard Mille, the fact that a tremendous challenge has been won is never a valid reason to stand still and be complacent. The introduction of the RM 056 Sapphire Tourbillon Split Seconds Chronograph three years ago was a watchmaking milestone of technical achievement; never before had such a complex case design for such an intricate movement been manufactured in pure sapphire. This debut was followed by the RM 56-01, which put the stakes even higher with a baseplate, bridges and third wheel additionally created from sapphire.
Today, a cutting-edge expression of horological transparency created expressly for the Watches & Wonders event in Hong Kong is presented with the magnificent RM 56-02 Sapphire Tourbillon and its new movement, taking cues from the mechanical architecture of the RM 27-01 Rafael Nadal and its cable suspended movement. By incorporating this cabled movement design within a world of transparent sapphire, an ultimate expression of weightlessness and transparency is evoked within the world of extreme horology.
In this fashion the baseplate of the RM 56-02, created from grade 5 titanium, is entirely suspended within the sapphire watchcase by specially developed single braided cable of only 0.35mm thickness, woven within a system of 4 pulleys on posts at the movement’s corners and another 6 pulleys placed along the movement’s periphery. The tension of the cable is perfectly controlled by a miniature ratchet at 9 o’clock. This entire cable unit is attached to a separate indicator located below 12 o’clock allowing an easy visual inspection of the cable tension, to ensure that it is always operating within the designated norms.
Other parts of the movement have also been optimized for transparency thanks to the experience gained with the aforementioned versions; in this case Richard Mille’s engineers have added to the previous use of sapphire movement parts a new design of winding barrel bridge, tourbillon and center bridges in sapphire. This fluently executed technical challenge is a crowning achievement of the sapphire family of timepieces within the high scaled variety of creativity to be found within the Richard Mille collection as an entity.
Sapphire, created from subjecting aluminum oxide crystals (Al2O3) to high pressure and temperature environments, is transparent due to the purity of its composition and has a hardness of 1800 Vickers (9 Moh’s) making it virtually scratch resistant by materials other than diamond. The tripartite case of the RM 56-02 is milled and ground from blocks of solid sapphire by the prestigious and highly specialized experts Stettler in Lyss, Switzerland, who had the difficult task of creating these movement parts and the unique, wrist hugging, ergonomically curving tripartite Richard Mille case. These engineering and technical challenges are self evident when we examine the reality of creating something inimitable like the RM 56-02: 40 days, 24/7 of continuous machining are required in order to produce one case followed by 400 hours of machining and finishing for the different movement bridges.
The case of the RM 56-02, with anti-glare protection on both front and back bezels, is waterproof to 30 meters thanks to the utilization of two transparent nitrile O-rings assembled with 24 spline screws in grade 5 titanium. The partially translucent strap created from Aerospace Nano® by Biwi SA, exclusively for Richard Mille, provides a silky and almost organic responsiveness to the skin that perfectly complements the exquisite ergonomic perfection of the RM 56-02 on the wrist.
The RM 56-02 will be released in a limited edition of 10 examples worldwide.
For the second year, Richard Mille is celebrating the title of the Official Timekeeper to the Polo Club Saint-Tropez; a magnificent 30 hectare-green setting nestled between Saint-Tropez and Pampelonne in the South of France. The partnership is based on the values of excellence, prestige and exclusivity that both Richard Mille and the Polo Club Saint-Tropez Polo Club share.
To honour the second year of the successful partnership Richard Mille is launching the RM 030 Polo de Saint- Tropez, a limited edition of 50 timepieces available from July at Polo Club Saint-Tropez and official Richard Mille Boutiques in Europe and the Middle East (Paris, Geneva, London, Dubai, Abu Dhabi).
Polo Club Saint Tropez has recently announced the new association of Mr Alshair Fyaz, SCA Haras de Gassin and Corine Schuler, Founder of Polo Club Saint Tropez. Together they have begun the new development of Polo Club Saint Tropez, enhancing the Club’s beautiful grounds into new and modern facilities, which will incorporate new housing, stables and state of the art Tifton playing fields.
For the 2014 Summer season the club hosts 6 international tournaments with several of the highest ranked teams competing in a variety of handicap levels throughout the polo season starting from June until Mid-September.
Richard Mille will have an official presence at the Club’s major tournaments this year – The International Polo Cup Saint-Tropez (3rd July – 13th July) whose finalist will contend for the prestigious ‘Richard Mille Cup’, The Polo Masters – Open de Gassin (17th – 27th July) which is the summer destination for the famous Polo Masters Tour and the Côte d’Azur Polo Cup (7th – 17th August).
The polo Masters Tour is an exciting addition to the Saint Tropez Polo club Calendar. The International teams have competed over the winter in Val D’Isere, Megeve and Courchevel and the tour has included the summer game in the stunning setting of the St Tropez polo Club. The final weekend will be an exhibition of sport, festivals and elegance. The programme will include a Ladies’ day, showcasing the elegance and skill of ladies polo in an exhibition match. Beautiful vintage cars will also be on display and a fashion show will also be a spectacle of the weekend.
The RM 030 Polo de Saint-Tropez comes in a ceramic ATZ bezel and caseback and a grade 5 titanium caseband. Details in case and dial take their inspiration from the colours of the Polo Club Saint-Tropez logo, navy blue and white. The Polo Club’s logo is engraved on the rear sapphire glass completing the exquisite finishing of this timepiece which comes fitted with a grey rubber strap and titanium buckle.
Once again, Swiss luxury watch maker Richard Mille supports the prestigious Le Mans Classic as a Main Partner and Official Timekeeper of the race. Since 2002, the Jura watchmaker has been supporting this competition.
The 7th Le Mans Classic will take place on July 4, 5 and 6. Le Mans Classic revives more than 80 years of automobile sport history by bringing back the cars and the pilots who created the legend of the most famous race in the world on the great 13 kilometer Le Mans circuit.
As a tribute to this exceptional race, Richard Mille will introduce a limited edition watch, the RM 030 Le Mans Classic, the fourth piece to carry the name of the competition.
For this automatic winding caliber, Richard Mille developed a rotor that would prevent overwinding thanks to its capacity to automatically disconnect from the rotor’s winding mechanism when the spring is fully wound. Additionally, this new mechanism is linked to the power reserve indicator placed at 9 o’clock to provide an optimal winding control with the best ratio of constant torque/power.
The RM 030 LMC also has a 24 hours display placed at 2 o’clock. The indication “16”references to the depart time of the endurance race, is a discrete homage to the event.
The RM 030 LMC displays the colors of the historic race inside of its movement as well as its white ATZ ceramic case and with the rubber of the NTPT® crown. This special edition will be a limited series of a 100 pieces.
Technical details
Model: RM 030 Le Mans Classic
– Automatic winding movement
– Power reserve: circa 55 hours
– Baseplate, bridges and balance cock in grade 5 titanium
– Declutchable rotor with variable geometry
– Winding indicator
– Date display
– Free sprung balance with variable inertia
– Double barrel system
– Balance: Glucydur, 4 arms, inertia moment 4.8 mg cm2, angle of lift 53º
– Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
– Spline screws in grade 5 titanium for the case and the bridges
– Interior flanges in carbon fiber
– Torque limiting crown in NTPT® carbon
– Baseplate and bridges in hand-ground grade 5 titanium, wet sandblasted, Titalyt® treated
– Sapphire blasted and hand-drawn surfaces
Unveiled at SIHH 2014, this manual winding tourbillon timepiece boasts chronograph, G-sensor and Function Indicator. Featuring highly complex and well executed exterior and interior, the Tourbillon Chronograph G-Sensor RM 50-01 Lotus F1 Team Romain Grosjean will be produced in a Limited edition of 30 pieces in NTPT® carbon with caseband in NTPT® carbon or red gold.
Skeletonised Titanium Baseplate
The baseplate has been finished in grade 5 titanium, a biocompatible, highly corrosion-resistant and remarkably rigid alloy, which enables the gear train to function effortlessly. The alloy is 90% grade 5 titanium, 6% aluminium and 4% vanadium. This combination further increases its mechanical properties, which explains its frequent use in the aerospace, aeronautical and automobile industries. The baseplate of the caliber RM50-01 has been optimised to achieve an extreme weight/resistance ratio.
Bridges Made in Grade 5 Titanium and Stainless Steel
The bridges of the caliber RM50-01 are made of grade 5 titanium. To give more depth to the caliber, some bridges, such as the tourbillon and G-sensor bridges and certain components, such as the chronograph mechanism and the clutch rocker, are made of stainless steel and given a golden appearance by galvanization treatment.
Chronograph (column wheels in grade 5 titanium)
The modern architecture of this new movement has allowed for a coherent and rational arrangement of each constituent part, avoiding unnecessary complexity and permitting the best possible use of the functions with technical solutions. For example, research was conducted into the geometric design of the column wheels that control the different levers in order to ensure the perfect, long-term, stable and simultaneous functioning of the chronograph mechanism, a feature that is essential for a high performance chronograph.
Operation: the chronograph function is stopped and started via the pusher located on the lower left at 8 o’clock. The hands are reset by pressing another pusher located on the upper left at 10 o’clock.
G-Force Indicator
This mechanism was designed to visually display the number of the G’s accumulated by the watch’s wearer during rapid deceleration. The hand and scale located below 12 o’clock indicate whether the deceleration is mild (green zone) or critical (red zone) for the driver.
Function Indicator
In a manner similar to a car’s gearbox, the function indicator allows one to see the winding, neutral and handsetting positions as the crown is pulled out. Each position is indicated via a hand at 4 o’clock displaying the following functions: W (Winding) – N (Neutral) – H (Handsetting).
Free Sprung Balance with Variable Inertia
This type of balance wheel, which represents the ultimate in innovation, guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shock and also during assembly and dismantling of the movement, thus achieving better chronometric results over time. The index is eliminated, thereby allowing a more precise and repeatable adjustment using 4 setting screws.
Fast Rotating Barrel (6 hours per revolution instead of 7.5 hours)
This type of barrel provides the following advantages:
– The phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion is significantly diminished, thereby increasing performance,
– Provision of an excellent mainspring delta curve with an ideal power reserve/performance and regularity ratio.
Barrel Pawl with Progressive Recoil
This device permits an appreciable winding gain (circa 20%), especially during the start of winding.
It also aids in the even distribution of the mainspring’s internal tension.
Winding Barrel Teeth and Third-Wheel Pinion with Central Involute Profile
The wheel with a central developing profile and a pressure angle of 20° promotes rolling movement more effectively, compensates differences between centers, and ensures excellent torque transmission and a distinct improvement in performance.
Modular Time Setting Mechanism Fitted Against the Case Back
Provides the following advantages for longevity and maintenance:
– Since the component is mounted outside of the movement, the time setting assembly can be changed without affecting the integrity of the baseplate in the event of a possible defect or during maintenance,
– The mounting and dismantling of this module from the back will not require the removal of the hands and the dial.
Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium for the Bridges
This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
Extreme Finishing for the Movement
Watchmaking expertise can be found throughout the caliber RM50-01, with drawn, polished, satin finished and soft polished surfaces all created by hand. The complex shape of the tourbillon and barrel bridges in microblasted stainless steel are typical examples with their visible and non-visible areas completely soft polished. Then hand-beveled and rhodium plated before the teeth are cut. The various yokes are straight-grained, sanded on both sides and soft polished. This range of finishes additionally optimizes the technical functions of the chronograph.
Movement
CALIBER RM50-01: manual winding tourbillon movement with G-sensor, hours, minutes and chronograph with central seconds and 30 minute counter at 9 o’clock. Power Reserve: Circa 70 hours (±10%)
– Movement dimensions: 32.00 x 36.70 mm
– Thickness: 7.53 mm
– Tourbillon diameter: 12.30 mm
– Balance wheel diameter: 11.50 mm
– Jewels: 35
– Angle of lift 53°
– Balance wheel: Glucydur, with 2 arms and 4 setting screws, Moment of inertia 10 mg cm – Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz) – Central bridge in aluminium – Balance spring: ELINVAR by Nivarox® – Shock protection: KIF ELASTOR KE 160 B28 – Barrel shaft in nickel-free chronifer (DIN x 46 Cr 13 + S), with the following characteristics: stainless – non-magnetic – tempered
CASE
The bezel and the caseback are in NTPT® carbon, an exclusive material with a unique appearance. Its remarkable surface displays extremely regular undulations, as NTPT® carbon is composed of multiple layers of parallel filaments obtained by dividing carbon fibers. These layers, with a maximum thickness of 30 microns, are impregnated with resin then woven on a special machine that modifies the direction of the weft by 45° between layers, creating this distinctive visual effect that is strongly reminiscent of Damascene steel. Heated to 120°C at a pressure of 6 bars, the NTPT® is then ready to be processed on a CNC machine in Richard Mille’s Proart case factory.
When compared to composite materials, whose exceptional physical properties are already well known, NTPT® carbon improves the rate of occurrence of breaking stresses by 25% and of micro-cracks by 200%. The case of the RM 50-01 is water resistant to 50 meters, ensured by two Nitril O-ring seals. The case is assembled with 20 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in 316L stainless steel. Dimensions: 50.00 x 42.70 x 16.40 mm.
Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium for the Case
This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
Torque Limiting Crown
This added security system prevents accidental overwinding of the watch, the result of which can cause damage such as breaking the winding stem or putting too much pressure on the barrel spring.
Flanges
In black metal with index points filled with approved luminous material.
Dial
In sapphire (thickness: 0.40 mm) with anti-glare coating (both sides), protected by 8 silicon clamps inserted in the outer and inner grooves.
Crystal
Bezel side: in sapphire (1,800 Vickers) with anti-glare coating (on both sides)
Thickness: 1.50 mm
Case back: in sapphire with anti-glare coating (on both sides)
Thickness: at the center 1.20 mm and outer edges 2.04 mm
Steel Parts
– Wire-drawn and microblasted surfaces
– Hand-polished bevelling
Wheels
– Concave chamfering with a diamond tool
– Circular-decorated faces
– Gilding (before cutting the teeth)
– Minimal corrections to preserve the geometry of the wheels and their performance
Tiger, Dragon and Michelle Yeoh – a demon hunter, a mythical creature and an Asian beauty: perfect combo for a Chinese block buster movie, became source of inspiration for this exceptional timepiece from Richard Mille. A tiger and dragon in red gold are integrated into the movement. Created from 3N rose gold, the figures are carved and incised entirely by hand. Special miniature tools needed to be made for the specific artistry required in the physical realization of these two creatures. To increase the realism of these special animals, a long and painstaking process of hand finished micro painting was executed, also including the unseen parts of these two marvellous entities.
The tiger and the dragon have deeply influenced Asian culture. The Tiger, considered as ‘Yang’ supremacy, therefore male, was viewed as a demon hunter. For the military, the tiger, symbol of courage, was represented on shields and weapons. The dragon, meanwhile, is a very common symbol in China, taking on many complex traits, as an emblem that can unify a group, or a larger nation.
The Tourbillon RM 51-01 Tiger and Dragon-Michelle Yeoh will be produced in limited edition of 20 pieces in 18K white gold or red gold. It houses a manual winding tourbillon movement with hours, minutes and power reserve indicator. The power reserve indication is displayed using a differential power reserve system with a printed red line on a moving disc located between 10 and 11 o’clock.
The CALIBER RM51-01 manual winding tourbillon movement comes with many innovative features and functions, some of them are explained below.
Baseplate and Bridges Are Made of Grade 5 Titanium: These components are in grade 5 titanium this provides the whole assembly great rigidity, as well as precise surface flatness which is essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train. The skeletonised baseplate and the bridges have been subjected to intensive and complete validation tests to optimize their resistance capacities.
Free Sprung Balance with Variable Inertia: The free-sprung balance provides better reliability in the event of shocks, movement assembly and disassembly. It also guarantees better chronometric results over an extended period of time. The regulator index is eliminated and a more accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible thanks to 4 small adjustable weights located directly on the balance.
Barrel Pawl with Progressive Recoil: This device permits a profitable winding gain (circa 20 %), especially during the winding start. It is also helpful in the distribution of the mainspring’s internal tension.
Movement
CALIBER RM51-01: manual winding tourbillon movement with hours, minutes and power reserve indicator.
Power Reserve: Circa 48 hours (±10%)
– Movement dimensions: 32.80 x 29.00 mm
– Thickness: 5.17 mm
– Tourbillon diameter: 12.30 mm
– Balance wheel diameter: 10.00 mm
– Jewels: 21, set in white gold chatons
– Balance: Glucydur, 2 arms, 4 setting screws, moment of inertia 11.50 mg cm , angle of lift 53º
– Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
– Balance spring: ELINVAR by Nivarox®
– Shock protection: KIF Elastor KE 160 B28
– Barrel shaft: in nickel-free chronifer (DIN x 46 Cr 13 + S) with the following characteristics: stainless- antimagnetic – suitable for tempering.
CASE
The three-part barrel-shaped case is highly curved which means the watch is comfortable to wear but considerable time is required for its production and quality control. The ergonomic and visually distinctive curvature of the case is typical of all Richard Mille timepieces, requiring absolute precision and a total lack of tension in the metal.
These requirements for the case design are based on a year’s research and development. The characteristic tonneau shape of the RM 51-01 requires no fewer than 47 preliminary stamping operations including 21 for the tamping before production actually can begin.
4 hours of machining followed by more than 260 milling procedures are required to produce the RM 51-01 case with a further day spent on finishing which entails grinding, satin brushing and polishing. The tripartite case is water resistant to 50 meters, ensured by 2 Nitril O-ring seals. The case is assembled with 12 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in 316L stainless steel. Dimensions: 48.00 x 39.70 x 12.80 mm
Torque Limiting Crown
This additional security system prevents from accidental overwinding, which could cause damage to the winding stem or putting extreme pressure on the mainspring barrel.
Flanges
Upper and lower flange in black metal
Crystal
Bezel side: in sapphire (hardness 1,800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (both sides). Thickness: 1.20 mm
Case back: in sapphire with anti-glare treatment (both sides)
Thickness: at the center 1.00 mm and outer edges 1.73 mm.
Finishing Movement
– Anglage and polishing by hand
– Locking sections hand polished
– Sapphire blasted milled sections
– Lapped and polished contact points
– Burnished pivots
– PVD treatment
Steel Parts
– Sapphire blasted surfaces
– Satin finished surfaces
– Anglage and polishing by hand
– Burnished sections
Wheels
– Concave chamfering with a diamond tool
– Circular-finished faces
– Surface treatment or rhodium-plating (before cutting the teeth)
– Minimal corrections applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance.
Introduced at SIHH 2014, this ultimate regatta timepiece is loaded with functions such as Flyback chronograph, 30 minute countdown timer, 24 hour totalizer, oversize date, month, annual calendar and UTC function.
Flyback Chronograph
By using the pusher between 4 and 5 o’clock, the running chronograph can be reset without first having to stop the mechanism. This was originally developed for pilots in order to not waste time (and therefore accuracy) from stopping, resetting and starting the chronograph whilst crossing a navigational point. While the chronograph function is activated, the hours and minutes show up the elapsed time thanks to the counter at 6 and 9 o’clock, the seconds are indicated by the central hands.
Function: the user can start or stop the chronograph function via the pusher located between 1 and 2 o’clock. The flyback function can be continuously reset by depressing the second pusher located between 4 and 5 o’clock.
Countdown
Located at 9 o’clock, the hand is replaced by a skeletonised 60 minutes-marked disc. The pilot can read minutes elapsed but also remaining minutes.
UTC Function
The RM 60-01 features a UTC hand that can be used either as a second time zone indicator or in combination with the sun and the rotating bezel to orientate the points of the compass.It can be easily adjusted using the pusher at 8 o’clock.
Oversize Date Display
Semi-instantaneous, placed in a red outlined horizontal aperture under 12 o’clock with automatic adjustment for months of 30 or 31 days.
Month Display
Semi-instantaneous indicated by Arabic numerals, placed between 4 and 5 o’clock.
The automatic RMAC2 movement features the following technical innovations:- Baseplate, Bridges and Balance Cock Made of Grade 5 Titanium
These components are in grade 5 titanium with black PVD coating. This provides the whole assembly great rigidity, as well as precise surface flatness, which is essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train.
Free Sprung Balance with Variable Inertia
This type of balance wheel represents the ultimate in innovation. It guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shock and also during movement assembly and disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index is eliminated and a more accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible thanks to 4 small adjustable weights located directly on the balance.
Rotor With Variable Geometry
– Arm in grade 2 titanium
– Flange in grade 5 titanium
– 6-positional adj ustment via grade 5 titanium screws
– Ribs in 18K white gold, high palladium content
– Weight segment in white gold
– Ceramic ball bearings
– Unidirectional anti-clockwise winding direction
This exclusive Richard Mille design allows the rewinding of the mainspring to be adapted most effectively to the user’s activity level. By adjusting the setting of the rib’s placement, the rotor’s inertia is modified to either speed up the winding process in the case of leisurely arm movements, or slow it down when sporting activities are pursued. As a result, this invention allows the movement’s winding mechanism to be optimized.
Double Barrel System
The double barrel system contributes to the torque stability over a longer period. This is achieved by using more rotations of the barrel, thereby reducing pressure and wear on the teeth, bearings and pivots, hence an improved long-term performance.
Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium for the Bridges
Due their design, these screws offer better control of the torque applied during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
Movement
CALIBER RMAC2: automatic winding movement with hours, minutes, running seconds at 3 o’clock, oversize date, month, annual calendar, Flyback chronograph with central seconds counter, and 30 minute countdown timer at 9 o’clock, 24 hour totalizer at 6 o’clock, UTC function and adjustable rotor geometry.
Power Reserve: Circa 50 hours (±10%).Actual power reserve results will depend on the period of time the chronograph is utilised.
– Diameter of the movement: 39.15 mm
– Thickness: 9.00 mm
– Jewels: 62
– Balance: Glucydur, 4 arms, inertia moment 4.8 mg cm , angle of lift 53º
– Frequency: 28,800 vph (4Hz)
– Balance spring: ELINVAR
– Shock protection: Incabloc 908.22.211.100 (transparent)
– Escapement wheel jewels: Rubifix (transparent)
– Stem with three positions: manual winding, date adj ustment, time setting
Case
The case features a unique four-part structure. The system is completed by the incorporation of horns in the case assembly. The four-part case of the RM 60-01 is very difficult to make. After a turning operation lasting 1 hour and 40 minutes, no less than 800 milling operations are required, taking several hours. Machining demands nearly 11 hours of separate operations. It is followed by a meticulous quality control procedure that takes a full day for each case. The 3 pushers, their components and the crown of the RM 60-01 require 10 days of machining, during which they undergo numerous tests for water-resistance and quality control, followed by the manual brushing and polishing of the entire case. All of these stages are vital in producing the characteristic ergonomic quality of Richard Mille watches. Diameter: 50.00 x 16.33 mm.
Bidirectional Bezel with Compass
The RM 60-01 has been conceived to allow navigators to orient themselves at sea thanks to the rotating bezel featuring the display of the four cardinal points, a measuring disc of 360° and a 24-hour scale. Its functioning principle relies on 2 factors: the knowledge of the local time and the position of the sun in the sky. First, the UTC hand is placed pointing towards the sun. Then the rotating bezel just needs to be set in order for the UTC hand to indicate the local hour displayed on the bezel. North, East, South and West are then shown to the user. What differentiates the RM 60-01 from the other “regatta” watches is that it can be used for orientation in both the northern and the southern hemispheres without any calculation, simply by selecting the appropriate scale.
Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium for the Case
This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
Locking Crown
In order to avoid accidental actuation resulting from an error of manipulation, Richard Mille developed a secondary locking crown that is able to lock both pushers simultaneously with a simple turn. The green and red indexes respectively show whether the locking mechanism is in operation or deactivated. This complex, innovative mechanism is exclusive to Richard Mille.
Upper Flange
In carbon fiber with a black surface treatment with index points filled with approved luminous material. Lower flange in black galvanized metal.
Dial
In sapphire (thickness: 0.40 mm) with anti-glare treatment (on both sides), protected by 8 silicon braces inserted in the upper and lower grooves.
Crystal
– Bezel side: in sapphire (1800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (on both sides).
– Thickness: 2.20 mm
– Case back: in sapphire with anti-glare treatment (on both sides)
– Thickness: at the center 1.00 mm and at outer edges 1.91 mm
Finishing Movement
– Baseplate and bridges in hand-ground grade 5 titanium, wet sandblasted, top face polished by hand PVD treated
– Burnished pivots
– Diamond polished sinks on the bridge side
– Pinions with undercuts
– Sandblasted and rhodium-plating, beveled wheels (before cutting)
– Minimum correction applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance.
Steel Parts
– Sapphire blasted and hand-drawn surfaces
– Screw slot and screws beveled and polished with rounded and polished tip
Unveiled at SIHH 2014, RM 36-01 Tourbillon Competition G Sensor Sebastien Loeb timepiece is equipped with a manual winding tourbillon movement that boasts functions such as rotary G-sensor, power reserve indicator and function selector. This timepiece will be produced in limited edition of 30 pieces in carbon nano-tubes and titanium.
Baseplate and Bridges in Grade 5 Titanium: The baseplate has been finished in grade 5 titanium, a bio-compatible, highly corrosion-resistant and remarkably rigid alloy, which enables the gear train to function effortlessly. The alloy is 90 % grade 5 titanium, 6% aluminium and 4 % vanadium. This combination further increases its mechanical properties, which explains its frequent use in the aerospace, aeronautic and automotive industries. The baseplate is also PVD treated. The skeletonised baseplate and the bridges have been subjected to intensive and complete validation tests to optimize their resistance capacities.
Rotary G-Sensor : Composed of over 50 parts and measuring a mere 17mm, the rotary G-sensor is designed to visually display the number of G’s accumulated by the driver during the different phases of driving such as rapid acceleration, deceleration and lateral forces. The direction of the G-force to be recorded is set by rotating the bezel. The G-sensor system operates on the principle of displacement of a weight, and a needle on the scale indicates whether the number of Gs accumulated is mild (green zone) or critical (red zone) for the driver. A push-piece set at the center of the sapphire glass quickly resets it to zero.
Function selector : In a manner similar to a car’s gearbox, a push-button located at the center of the crown allows one to select the winding, neutral and handsetting functions with a simple push. A small hand near at 4 o’clock displays the selected function: W (winding) – N (neutral) – H (handsetting).
Free Sprung Balance with Variable Inertia: The free-sprung balance with variable inertia and a terminal-curve spring guarantees greater reliability in case of impacts and during movement assembly and disassembly, thus achieving better chronometric results over time.
Fast Rotating Barrel (6 hours per revolution instead of 7.5 hours): This type of barrel provides the following advantages:
– The phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion is significantly diminished, thereby increasing performance
– Provision of an excellent mainspring delta curve with an ideal power reserve/performance and regularity ratio
Barrel Pawl with Progressive Recoil: This device permits a profitable winding gain (circa 20 %), especially during the winding start. It is also helpful in the distribution of the mainspring’s internal tension.
Modular Time Setting Mechanism Fitted Against the Case Back: Provides the following advantages for longevity and maintenance:
– Since the component is mounted outside of the movement, the time setting assembly can be changed without affecting the integrity of the baseplate in the event of a possible defect or during maintenance,
– The mounting and dismantling of this module from the back will not require there moval of the hands and the dial.
Wheel Based Time Setting System (back of the movement): Provides smooth time setting functions through the elimination of engaging friction by replacing it with rolling friction.
Ceramic End stone for the Tourbillon Cage: This reflects a technical and long-term view towards the elimination of wear phenomena, resulting in improved technical tribology.
Central Bridge in Rigidified ARCAP: Ensures high rigidity of the baseplate and the bridge assembly of the going train.
Winding Barrel Teeth and Third-Wheel Pinion with Central Involute Profile: The central involute profile of the winding barrel teeth and pinion provides an optimal pressure angle of 20°. This promotes effective rotary motion and allows for compensation of possible variations in the engagement of the going train, thus insuring excellent torque transmission with a distinct improvement in performance.
Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium for the Bridges: This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
Movement
CALIBER RM36-01: manual winding tourbillon movement with hours, minutes, rotary G-sensor, power reserve indicator and function selector. Power Reserve: Circa 70 hours (±10%), display on a numeric scale at 2 o’clock
– Movement diameter: 36.60mm
– Thickness: 3.96 mm
– G sensor module thickness: 10.25 mm
– Tourbillon diameter: 12.30 mm
– Balance wheel diameter: 10 mm
– Jewels: 37
– Balance: Glucydur, 2 arms and 4 setting screws, inertia moment 11.50 mg cm , angle of lift 53°
– Frequency: 21’600 vph (3 Hz)
– Balance spring: ELINVAR by Nivarox®
– Shock protection: KIF ELASTOR KE 160 B28
– Barrel arbor: in nickel-free chronifer (DIN x 46 Cr 13 + S), with the following characteristics: stainless – antimagnetic – suitable for tempering.
CASE
The three-part case of the RM 36-01 is composed of extremely advanced materials:
Rotating bezel: in TZP-Z brown ceramic made of aluminum oxide powder tubes injected at a pressure of almost 2,000 bar. It is noted for being a particularly scratch-resistant material (1,400 Vickers), possessing a stable color. Brown ceramic requires a long and difficult machining and grinding process using special diamond tools.
Caseband: made from an extremely strong anthracite polymer injected with carbon nanotubes. This combination produces a material that provides perfect protection for the movement and the tourbillon.
Caseback and fixed bezel: in grade 5 titanium, a biocompatible, highly corrosion-resistant and remarkably rigid alloy. It is composed of 90% titanium, 6% aluminium and 4% vanadium, a combination that further enhances the mechanical properties of the material.
The design and execution of the watch demonstrates a complete conceptual approach to the movement, case and dial. As a result, everything has been constructed according to an extremely rigorous specifications, in the manner of the analytical engineering methods used in the design of Formula 1 racing cars where the chassis and the engine are developed in complete harmony.
The three-part case is water resistant to 30 meters ensured by two Nitril O-ring seals. The case is assembled with 20 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in 316L stainless steel. Diameter: 47.70 x 17.37 mm.
Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium for the Case
This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
Flanges
In titanium, black galvanic coated, with index point filled with approved luminous material.
Dial
In sapphire (thickness: 0.40 mm) with ant-glare treatment (both sides).
Crystal
Bezel side: in sapphire (1800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (both sides)
Thickness: at the center 2.45 mm and outer edges 1.72 mm
Caseback: in sapphire with anti-glare treatment (both sides)
Thickness: at the center 1.00 mm and outer edges 1.74 mm
Finishing Movement
– Anglage and polishing by hand
– Locking sections hand polished
– Sapphire blasted milled sections
– Lapped and polished contact points
– Burnished pivots
Steel Parts
– Sapphire blasted surfaces
– Anglage and polishing by hand
– Drawn outer faces
Wheels
– Concave chamfering with a diamond tool
– Circular-smoothed faces
– Rhodium plating (before cutting the teeth)
– Minimal corrections are made to the wheels to preserve their geometry and overall performance
Unveiled at SIHH 2014, the RM 35-01 Rafael Nadal timepiece is made with NTPT® carbon, an exclusive material with a unique appearance. It houses manual winding skeletonised movement, which comes with many innovative features as follows:-
Baseplate Bridges and Balance Cock Made in Grade 5 Titanium: The manufacture of these components in grade 5 titanium with black PVD treatment allows the whole assembly to be given great rigidity, as well as precise surface flatness, essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train. The skeletonised baseplate and the bridges have been subjected to intensive and complete validation tests in order to optimize their stress resistance.
Free Sprung Balance with Variable Inertia: Guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shock and also during movement assembly and disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index has been eliminated, thus guaranteeing a more accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible thanks to 4 small adjustable weights located directly on the balance.
Double Barrel System: The double barrel system contributes to the torque stability over a longer period. This is achieved by dispersing the stored energy within two winding barrels, equalizing torque as well as reducing friction on the bearings and pivots resulting in improved long-term performance.
Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium for the Bridges: This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
Movement
CALIBER RMUL3: manual winding skeletonised movement with hours, minutes, seconds. Power reserve: Circa 55 hours (±10%)
Movement dimensions: 30.25 x 28.45 mm
– Thickness: 3.15 mm
– Jewels: 24
– Barrel arbor– in AP 20 steel – Balance: Glucydur, 2 arms and 4 setting screws, inertia moment 4.8 mg cm , angle of lift 53° – Frequency: 28’800 vph (4 Hz) – Balance spring: ELINVAR – Shock protection: Incabloc 908.22.211.100 (transparent)
– Escapement wheel jewels: Rubifix (transparent)
– Stem with two positions: manual winding and time setting
CASE MADE IN NTPT® CARBON
NTPT® carbon is an exclusive material with a unique appearance. Its remarkable surface displays extremely regular undulations, as NTPT® carbon is composed of multiple layers of parallel filaments obtained by dividing carbon fibers. These layers, with a maximum thickness of 30 microns, are impregnated with resin then woven on a special machine that modifies the direction of the weft by 45° between layers. Heated to 120°C at a pressure of 6 bars, the NTPT® is then ready to be processed on a CNC machine in Richard Mille’s Proart case factory.
When compared to composite materials, whose exceptional physical properties are already well known, NTPT® carbon improves the rate of occurrence of breaking stresses by 25% and of micro cracks by 200%. The case of the RM 35-01 is water resistant to 50 meters, ensured by two Nitril O-ring seals. The case is assembled with 20 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in 316L stainless steel. Dimensions: 49.94 x 42.00 x 14.05 mm.
Crown
In NTPT® carbon with O ring seal in Alcryn
Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium for the Case
This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
Interior Flanges
Upper flange in black carbon fiber, the hours index points filled with approved luminous material.
Crystal
Bezel side: in sapphire (1,800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (both sides)
Thickness: 1.50 mm
Finishing Movement
– Baseplate wet sandblasted grade 5 titanium, PVD treated and hand-drawn after treatment
– Bridges in hand-ground grade 5 titanium, wet sandblasted and Titalyt® treated
– Locking sections hand polished
– Burnished pivots
– Pinions with undercuts
– Sandblasted and rhodium-plating, beveled wheels (before cutting the teeth)
– Minimum corrections applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance
Steel parts
– Screw slot and screw beveled and polished with rounded and polished tip – Straight line grain finish of the upper surface – Lower surfaces microblasted – Hand-polished sinks
Unveiled at SIHH 2014, the RM 61-01 YOHAN BLAKE houses a manual winding skeletonised movement. The materials used in the construction of this timepiece are highly innovative, technologically advanced and both case and movement are well executed and finished.
Special features of the Movement Baseplate and Bridges in Grade 5 Titanium: The manufacturing of these components in grade 5 titanium with black PVD coating for the baseplate and the bridges gives the whole assembly a great rigidity and achieves excellent surface flatness, essential to the perfect functioning of the gear train. The skeletonised baseplate and the bridges have been subjected to complete validation tests to optimise their stress resistance.
Free Sprung Balance with Variable Inertia: This type of balance wheel ensures greater reliability in the event of impact as well as during assembly and disassembly of the movement. This improves precision in the long term. There is no need for an index and it is possible to adjust the inertia more finely directly on the balance wheel via 4 small adjustable small weights.
Double Barrel System: The double barrel system helps improve torque stability over a longer period by reducing pressure and wear on the teeth, bearings and pivots, resulting in improved performance.
Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium for the Bridges: Their shape allows better control of the torque applied to these screws during assembly. The screws are thus perfectly resistant to manipulation during assembly and disassembly and are exposed to minimal wear and tear.
Movement
CALIBER RMUL2: manual winding skeletonised movement with hours, minutes and seconds; inspired by caliber RMUL1. Movement weight: circa 4.3 g. Power reserve: Circa 55 hours (±10%)
– Movement dimensions: 30.25 x 28.45 mm
– Thickness: 3.15 mm
– Jewels: 24
– Barrel arbor: in 20AP steel
– Balance wheel: Glucydur, 4 arms, moment of inertia 4.8 mg cm., angle of lift 53°
– Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
– Balance spring: ELINVAR
– Shock protection: Incabloc 908.22.211.100 (transparent)
– Escapement wheel jewels: Rubifix (transparent)
– Stem with two positions: manual winding and time setting
CASE
TZP black ceramic was chosen for the RM 61-01 Yohan Blake’s bezel and caseback. This low-density material (6g/cm3) is highly scratch-resistant and has a low thermal conductivity coefficient. Constituted of 95% yttrium-stabilised zirconium, TZP has a pronounced grain that provides the perfect finish. A long and difficult machining and grinding process using diamond tools is necessary to create the complex forms of the bezel and caseback, which are given a final matt surface finish. Its drawn-out shape between 2 and 5 o’clock stops the torque-limiting crown from rubbing against the sprinter’s wrist.
The caseband is in NTPT® carbon, a material composed of multiple layers of parallel filaments obtained by dividing carbon fibers. These layers, with a maximum thickness of 30 microns, are impregnated with resin, and then woven on a special machine that modifies the direction of the weft by 45° between layers. Heated to 120°C at a pressure of 6 bars, the NTPT® is then ready for machining. When compared to composite materials, whose exceptional physical properties are already well known, NTPT® carbon improves breaking strains by 25% and the occurrence of micro-cracks by 200%.
The RM 61-01 case is water resistant to 50 meters. It is assembled with of 20 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion-resistant washers in 316L stainless steel. Dimensions: 50.23 x 42.70 x 15.84 mm.
Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium for the Case
Their shape allows better control of the torque applied to these screws during assembly. The screws are thus perfectly resistant to manipulation during assembly and disassembly and are exposed to minimal wear and tear.
Crown
In NTPT® carbon with Alcryn® collar
Flanges
Upper flange in green anodized aluminum with hour index markers filled with approved luminescent material. Minutes flange in yellow varnished titanium.
Crystal
Bezel side: in sapphire (1,800 Vickers) with anti-glare coating (both sides).
Thickness: 1.50 mm
Case back: in sapphire with anti-glare coating (both sides).
Thickness: at the center 1.20 mm and outer edges 1.95 mm.
Finishing Movement
– Baseplate wet sandblasted grade 5 titanium, PVD treated and hand-drawn after treatment
– Locking sections hand polished
– Burnished pivots
– Pinions with undercuts
– Sandblasted and rhodium-plating, beveled wheels (before cutting the teeth)
– Minimum corrections applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance
Steel parts
– Screw slot and screw beveled and polished with rounded and polished tip
– Straight line grain finish of the upper surface
– Lower surfaces microblasted
– Sink hand-polished
– Hand polished sinks
Introduced at SIHH 2014, this Richard Mille timepiece features Dizzy Hands mechanism, a new horological art complication. The hour numerals are carried on an antireflective disc of sapphire crystal. Pressing the crown causes this disc to begin a slow, counter clockwise, ballet of rotation. At the same time, the hour hand continues in a clockwise direction, but at a different speed. The result is that Time has been momentarily suspended for private moments of personal pleasure, shared or for oneself. Pressing the crown again brings an end to this dance of relativity and restores the sapphire disc and hand to their normal positions: Time as we know it is restored. Inspired by the chronograph, the column-wheel positioned at 1 o’clock actuates the rotation mechanism of the sapphire hour disc and hour hand. The hammer, positioned at 3 o’clock triggers the return of the RM 63-01 to its initial state, displaying the exact time.
Additionally, the CALIBER CRMA3 boasts the following innovations and technologically advanced features.
Baseplate and Bridges Made of Grade 5 Titanium: Microblasted grade 5 titanium with electroplasma treatment gives great rigidity to the baseplate, as well as precise surface flatness which is essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train. The bridges are also created in grade 5 titanium, microblasted and electroplasma treated. The skeletonised baseplate and the bridges were subjected to separate and extensive validation tests to ensure optimal strength requirements.
Free Sprung Balance with Variable Inertia: Guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shock and also during movement assembly and disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index has been eliminated, thus guaranteeing a more accurate and repeatable adj ustment is possible thanks to 4 small adjustable weights located directly on the balance.
Fast Rotating Barrel (5 hours per revolution instead of 7.5 hours): This type of barrel has the following advantages: (1) The phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion is significantly diminished, thereby increasing performance, (2) Provision of an excellent mainspring delta curve with an ideal power reserve/performance and regularity ratio.
Newly Developed Gear Teeth Profile: The entire going train of the watch, the primary transmitter of power throughout the movement, utilizes a special profile for the teeth of the wheels. The wheels use a 20° pressure angle. This system equalizes any discrepancies that might arise between the axles of each wheel, for instance during thermal changes and normal use, and promotes an excellent transmission of torque to the balance wheel, thus supporting excellent chronometric characteristics.
Special Flat-Head Movement Screws : Richard Mille has utilized the best of modern micro-mechanical engineering in the use of special flat-head screws in the caliber CRMA3. These unusual screws with their 6 holed heads are based upon the snake-eye screw concept principally used in the assembly of parts that require extremely exact torque to be applied.
Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium for the Movement : This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
Movement
CALIBER CRMA3: automatic winding movement with hours, minutes, rotor in 5N gold and Dizzy Hands function.
Power Reserve: Circa 50 hours (±10%)
– Diameter of the movement: 31.00 mm
– Thickness: 6.675 mm
– Jewels: 35
– Balance: CuBe, 4 arms, 4 setting screws, inertia moment 7.5 mg cm , angle of lift 50º
– Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
– Balance spring: AK3
– Shock protection: Incabloc 908.22.211.100 (transparent)
– Escapement wheel jewels: Rubifix (transparent)
CASE
The design and execution of the watch demonstrates a complete conceptual approach to the movement, case and dial. As a result, everything has been constructed according to extremely rigorous specifications. It takes a whole series of stamping and machining operations and several days of adjustments to make the three-part case with its curves used for the first time by Richard Mille.
For each case machined, a period of 45 minutes is needed just for the positive engraving of the name “Richard Mille”.
The case is assembled with 16 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in steel 316L. The system is completed by the incorporation of the lugs as separate elements of the case design. Diameter: 42.70 x 11.70 mm.
Crown
In red gold with O-ring seal and Alcryn® collar
Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium for the Case
This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
Lower Flange
In carbon fiber; index points filled with approved luminous material.
Dial
In sapphire (thickness: 0.40 mm) anti-glare treatment (both side).
Crystal
Bezel side: in sapphire (1800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (both sides). Thickness: 1.00 mm
Case back: in sapphire with anti-glare treatment (both sides)
Thickness: at the center 1.00 mm and outer edges 1.74 mm
Finishing Movement
– Microblasted anglage
– Microblasted milled section
– Microblasted sinks
– Electroplasma treatment for the baseplate and the bridges
Steel Parts
– Satin finished surfaces
– Anglage hand polished
– Hand polished sinks
– Burnished sections
Profile-Turning
– Lapped and polished ends
– Burnished pivots
– Post faces polished
Wheels
– Concave chamfering with a diamond tool
– Diamond polished angles
– Circular finished faces
– Rhodium-plating (before cutting the teeth)
Unveiled at SIHH 2014, this exceptional ladies’ timepiece boasts a skeletonised automatic movement and features a number of innovations developed by Richard Mille. The design and execution of the watch demonstrates a complete conceptual approach to the movement, case and dial. As a result, everything has been constructed according to extremely rigorous specifications and in complete harmony.
Baseplate and Bridges Made of Grade 5 Titanium
Microblasted grade 5 titanium with electroplasma treatment gives great rigidity to the baseplate, as well as precise surface flatness which is essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train. Bridges are also in grade 5 titanium, microblasted and electroplasma treatment. The skeletonised baseplate and the bridges were subjected to separate and extensive validation tests to ensure optimal strength requirements.
Rotor with Variable Geometry
– Heavy external outside edge and heavy edge ring in 5N red gold
– Weight segment in heavy metal
– Ceramic ball bearings
– Automatic winding system OneWay® with ball bearings in ceramic
– Bidirectional winding system
This rotor with variable inertia has been incorporated into the caliber CRMA2 as it allows the rotor to be set according to the owner’s activity level. The setting is modified by adj usting the two weights which can be moved into the correct position and fixed in place by spline screws. Inertia of the movement is increased when the two weights are closer to each other and the barrel then rewinds more quickly. If the weights are positioned to the extremities of the rotor, the inertia is decreased, resulting in the barrel winding more slowly.
Free Sprung Balance with Variable Inertia
Guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shock and also during movement assembly and disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index has been eliminated, thus guaranteeing a more accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible thanks to 4 small adjustable weights located directly on the balance.
Fast Rotating Barrel (5 hours per revolution instead of 7.5 hours)
This type of barrel has the following advantages: – The phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion is significantly diminished, thereby increasing performance,
– Provision of an excellent mainspring delta curve with an ideal power reserve/performance and regularity ratio.
Newly Developed Gear Teeth Profile
The entire going train of the watch, the primary transmitter of power throughout the movement, utilizes a special profile for the teeth of the wheels. Developed for the caliber CRMA2, the wheels use a 20° pressure angle. This system equalizes any discrepancies that might arise between the axles of each wheel, and promotes an excellent transmission of torque to the balance wheel, thus supporting excellent chronometric characteristics.
Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium for the Movement
This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
Movement
CALIBER CRMA2: skeletonised automatic movement with hours, minutes and adjustable rotor geometry. Power Reserve: Circa 50 hours (±10%)
Movement dimensions: 29.90 x 22.00 mm
– Thickness: 4.92 mm – Jewels: 25
– Balance: CuBe, 4 arms, 4 setting screws, inertia moment 7.5 mg cm , angle of lift 50º
– Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
– Balance spring: AK3
– Shock protection: Incabloc 908.22.211.100 (transparent)
– Escapement wheel jewels: Rubifix (transparent)
CASE
The design and execution of the watch demonstrates a complete conceptual approach to the movement, case and dial. As a result, everything has been constructed according to extremely rigorous specifications and in complete harmony. For example, the casing ring is no longer used, and the movement is mounted on chassis mounting rubbers (ISO SW) fixed by 2 titanium screws. Features such as these are evidence of uncompromising workmanship. The caliber CRMA2 is highlighted by the combination of unique materials such as red gold for the caseband and white ceramic for the bezel and the caseback. It is particularly resistant to knocks and scratches and undergoes a long production process which results in a final matt surface finish. The caseband is in satin 5N red gold with polished pillars.
The RM 07-01 is available in TPZ-Z brown ceramic, in ATZ white ceramic and in white or red gold. The three-part case is water resistant to 50 meters ensured by 2 Nitril O-ring seals. The case is assembled with 12 grade 5 titanium spline screws and abrasion resistant washers in 316 L stainless steel.Dimensions: 45.66 x 31.40 x 11.85 mm.
New Patented Stem-Crown Construction
This newly designed crown allows the integrity of the movement to be fully guaranteed and protected from external influences, since it does not use a classical crown attachment going into the depth of the movement’s heart. The result is that the crown is virtually impossible to dislodge and yet it is easily inserted and removed under the skillful hands of the watchmaker when needed; a typical view towards longevity that typifies the brand’s philosophy. An ideal solution for the long-term protection of the movement.
Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium for the Case
This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
Upper Flange
In carbon fiber; index points filled with approved luminous material.
Crystal
Bezel side: in sapphire (1800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (2 sides).
Thickness: 1.60 mm
Case back: in sapphire with anti-glare treatment (2 sides)
Thickness: at the center 0.95 mm and outer edges 1.67 mm
Finishing Movement
– Microblasted anglage
– Microblasted milled section
– Microblasted sinks
– Electroplasma treatment for the baseplate and the bridges
Steel Parts
– Satin finished surfaces
– Anglage hand polished
– Hand polished sinks
– Burnished sections
Profile-Turning
– Lapped and polished ends
– Burnished pivots
– Post faces polished
Wheels
– Concave chamfering with a diamond tool
– Diamond polished angles
– Circular finished faces
– Rhodium-plating (before cutting the teeth)
Unveiled at SIHH 2014, the RM 037 LADIES watch boasts many special features and innovations. The design and execution of this timepiece demonstrates a complete conceptual approach to the movement, case and dial. As a result, everything has been constructed according to extremely rigorous specifications, in the manner of the analytical engineering methods used in the design of Formula 1 racing cars where the chassis and the engine are developed in complete harmony.
The in-house CRMA1 is highlighted by the combination of unique materials such as red gold for the caseband and TZP black ceramic for the bezel and the caseback. It is particularly resistant to knocks and scratches and undergoes a long production process which results in a final matt surface finish.
The caseband is in satin 5N red gold with polished pillars. The RM 037 is available in TPZ black ceramic, in ATZ white ceramic and in white or red gold. The three-part case is rendered water resistant to 50 meters ensured by two Nitril O-ring seals. It is assembled using 20 grade 5 titanium spline screws and abrasion-resistant washers in 316L stainless steel.
New Patented Stem-Crown Construction
This designed crown allows the integrity of the movement to be fully guaranteed and protected from external influences, since it does not use a classical crown attachment going into the depth of the movement’s heart. The result is that the crown is virtually impossible to dislodge and yet it is easily inserted and removed under the skillful hands of the watchmaker when needed; a typical view towards longevity that typifies the brand’s philosophy. An ideal solution for the long-term protection of the movement.
Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium for the Case
This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
Baseplate and Bridges Made of Grade 5 Titanium
Microblasted grade 5 titanium with electroplasma treatment gives great rigidity to the baseplate, as well as precise surface flatness which is essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train. Bridges are also in grade 5 titanium, microblasted and electroplasma treatment. The skeletonised baseplate and the bridges were subjected to separate and extensive validation tests to ensure optimal strength requirements.
Rotor with Variable Geometry
This rotor with variable inertia has been incorporated into the caliber CRMA1 as it allows the rotor to be set according to the owner’s activity level. The setting is modified by adj usting the two weights which can be moved into the correct position and fixed in place by spline screws. Inertia of the movement is increased when the two weights are closer to each other and the barrel then rewinds more quickly. If the weights are positioned to the extremities of the rotor, the inertia is decreased, resulting in the barrel winding more slowly.
Free Sprung Balance with Variable Inertia
It guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shock and also during movement assembly and disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index is eliminated and a more accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible thanks to 4 small adjustable weights located directly on the balance.
Fast Rotating Barrel (5 hours per revolution instead of 7.5 hours)
This type of barrel has the following advantages:
– The phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion is significantly diminished, thereby increasing performance,
– Provision of an excellent mainspring delta curve with an ideal power reserve/performance and regularity ratio.
Newly Developed Gear Teeth Profile
The entire going train of the watch, the primary transmitter of power throughout the movement, utilizes a special profile for the teeth of the wheels. Developed specifically for the caliber CRMA1, the wheels use a 20° pressure angle. This system equalizes any discrepancies that might arise between the centers of each wheel, for instance during thermal changes and normal use, and promotes an excellent transmission of torque to the balance wheel, thus supporting excellent chronometric characteristics.
Oversize Date Display
Semi-instantaneous, horizontally placed under 12 o’clock, functioning via two skeletonised calendar discs over a white field. The date can be easily corrected via the pusher located at 10 o’clock.
Function Selector
A push-button located at 4 o’clock allows one to select the winding, neutral and handsetting functions with a simple push in a manner similar to a car’s gearbox. An aperture located at 4 o’clock shows the function selected: W (Winding) – N (Neutral) – H (Handsetting).
Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium for the Movement
This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
Technical details Movement
CALIBER CRMA1: skeletonised automatic movement with hours, minutes, adjustable rotor geometry, oversize date and function selector
Power Reserve: Circa 50 hours (±10%)
Movement dimensions: 28.00 x 22.90 mm
Thickness: 4.82 mm
Jewels: 25
Balance: CuBe, 4 arms, 4 setting screws, inertia moment 7.5 mg cm , angle of lift 50º
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Balance spring: AK3
Shock protection: Incabloc 908.22.211.100 (transparent)
Escapement wheel jewels: Rubifix (transparent)
Rotor With Variable Geometry – Heavy external outside edge and heavy edge ring in ARCAP – Weight segment in heavy metal – Ceramic ball bearings – Automatic winding system OneWay® with ceramic ball bearings – Bidirectional winding system
Case
TPZ black ceramic/ ATZ white ceramic/white or red gold. Three-part case, two Nitril O-ring seals
Dimensions: 52.63 x 34.40 x 13.00 mm
Water resistant to 50 meters
New patented stem-crown construction
Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium
Upper flange in carbon fiber; index points filled with approved luminous material.
Crystal
Bezel side: in sapphire (1,800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (2 sides).
Thickness: 1.60 mm
Case back: in sapphire with anti-glare treatment (2 sides)
Thickness: at the center 0.95 mm and outer edges 1.66 mm
Finishing Movement
– Micro-blasted anglage
– Micro-blasted milled section
– Micro-blasted sinks
– Electro-plasma treatment for the baseplate and the bridges
Steel Parts
– Satin finished surfaces
– Anglage hand polished
– Hand polished sinks
– Burnished sections
Profile-Turning
– Lapped and polished ends
– Burnished pivots
– Post faces polished
Wheels
– Concave chamfering with a diamond tool
– Diamond polished angles
– Circular finished faces
– Rhodium-plating (before cutting the teeth)
Swiss luxury watchmaker Richard Mille honours the gorgeous Hollywood actress Natalie Portman with a new timepiece. The Richard Mille Tourbillon RM 19-01 Natalie Portman, first unveiled at SIHH 2014, will be produced in limited edition of 20 pieces in 18K white or red gold gem-set case. This exceptional jewellery timepiece houses CALIBER RM19-01, a high end manual winding tourbillon movement with hours, minutes and power reserve indicator.
The power reserve is displayed using a newly designed differential power reserve system, with a printed red line on a moving disc located between 10 and 11 o’clock.
The whole baseplate of the RM 19-01 is machined from 18K white gold, polished by hand and then black rhodium-plated. Taking the spider web as its motif, the baseplate is then decorated and set with hundreds of black sapphires, an aesthetic feat obtained through the long and delicate work of the gem-setter.
For this first collaboration, Natalie Portman set her mind on an image combining strong associations and complex undertones expressed by a diamond studded and encrusted tracery based upon the image of a spider. This predator insect fascinates us with its strong symbolic power as noted by the abundant myths and stories about spiders to be found in every civilization and across all continents, often in relation to feminine energy and creativity. A mistress of fate and weaver of reality, the spider is the symbol of the soul but also freedom. The rhodium-plated white gold spider, set with diamonds, forms an integral part of the movement. The opisthosoma, the abdominal part of the spider’s body, stiffens the tourbillon bridges and its legs support the two barrels.
The manufacture of bridges in grade 5 titanium with black PVD treatment allows the whole assembly to be given great rigidity, as well as precise surface flatness which is essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train. The free-sprung balance with variable inertia and a terminal-curve spring guarantee greater reliability in case of impacts and during movement assembly and disassembly, thus achieving better chronometric results over time.
The barrel pawl with progressive recoil permits a profitable winding gain (circa 20%), especially during the winding start. It is also aids in the distribution of the mainspring’ internal tension. The spline screws in grade 5 titanium for the bridges permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
The complex tripartite tonneau-shaped case is fully curved, which enables the watch to be ergonomic and comfortable but is time consuming during its production and requires a high level of quality control. Both front and back curves are part of the Richard Mille watch case regard less of their shapes (tonneau, round, rectangular). These curving bezels with their characteristic shape demand ultimate precision with no stress in the metal. These manufacturing specifications required one year of research and development.
The specific tonneau shape of the RM 19-01 requires 47 stamping operations including 21 only for preparation. Tooling takes 4 hours and the RM 19-01 is obtained after 250 milling operations. The finishing process requires a full day for grinding, glazing and polishing. The tripartite case is water resistant to 50 meters, ensured by two Nitril O-ring seals. The case is assembled with 12 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in 316L stainless steel.
The spline screws in grade 5 titanium for the case permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well. The Torque Limiting Crown is an additional security system that prevents from accidental overwinding, which could cause damage to the winding stem or put extreme pressure on the mainspring barrel.
Movement
CALIBER RM19-01: manual winding tourbillon movement with hours, minutes and power reserve indicator
Power Reserve: Circa 48 hours (±10%)
Baseplate in Gem-Set White Gold
Spider in Gem-Set White Gold
Bridges in grade 5 titanium
Free sprung balance with variable inertia
Barrel Pawl with Progressive Recoil
Spline screws in grade 5 titanium for the bridges
– Movement dimensions: 30.20 x 28.60 mm
– Thickness: 4.97 mm
– Tourbillon diameter: 12.30 mm
– Balance wheel diameter: 10 mm
– Jewels: 21, set in white gold chaton., angle of lift 53°
– Balance: Glucydur, 2 arms and 4 setting screws, inertia moment 11.5 mg cm
– Frequency: 21’600 vph (3 Hz)
– Balance spring: ELINVAR by Nivarox®
– Shock protection: KIF ELASTOR KE 160 B28
– Barrel shaft: in nickel-free Chronifer (DIN x 46 Cr 13 + S), with the following characteristics: stainless – antimagnetic – suitable for tempering.
Case
Tripartite tonneau-shaped case
18K white or red gold gem-set
Dimensions: 46.40 x 38.30 x 12.45 mm
Water resistant to 50 meters
Two Nitril O-ring seals
12 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in 316L stainless steel
Torque Limiting Crown
Upper flange: in metal, with the hours index set with diamonds.
Lower flange: in metal, with the minutes index in white color.
Crystal
Bezel side: in sapphire (1,800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (both sides).
Thickness: 1.20 mm
Caseback: in sapphire with anti-glare treatment (both sides).
Thickness: at the center 1.00 mm and outer edges 1.73 mm
Finishing Movement
– Anglage and polishing by hand
– Locking sections hand polished
– Sapphire blasted milled sections
– Lapped and polished contact points
– Burnished pivots
– PVD treatment
Steel Parts
– Sapphire blasted surfaces
– Satin finished surfaces
– Anglage and polishing by hand
– Drawn outer faces
Gear Wheel
– Concave chamfering with a diamond tool
– Circular finished faces
– Surface treatment or rhodium-plating (before cutting the teeth)
– Minimum correction applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance
Swiss luxury watch brand Richard Mille will donate a unique piece to Only Watch, the Yohan Blake Tourbillon Prototype, for the 5th edition of this exceptional charity auction held in Monaco. The proceeds from the auction will be for the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy.
The watch being donated is the Yohan Blake Tourbillon Prototype which Yohan Blake wore at the 2012 London Olympic Games where he won three medals and also at the Diamond League in Lausanne where he also won the 100m and became the third fastest sprinter of all time over this distance, beating his personal best. This Tourbillon Prototype in the colours of the Jamaican flag features a green flange and crown, yellow minute-markers and a yellow Velcro® strap that contrasts with the all white case. This caliber with 19 jewels and beating at 3Hz, has its base plate, bridges and balance cock made of grade 5 titanium.
The case of this prototype is made of an extremely rugged and light alloy called magnesium WE 54, one of the lightest metals used in construction and has excellent property retention capacities at elevated temperatures. After a long and delicate machining phase, theses alloys are given a new electro-plasma oxidation treatment called Miarox®, improving both the durability and scratch resistance of this alloy as well as its wear and corrosion properties.
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