Adding a new dimension to the enduring ultra-thin challenge between major haute horlogerie brands, Richard Mille has just created a new world record in the category of thinnest mechanical watch with its new RM UP-01 Ferrari.
With a thickness of just 1.75 mm, the Richard Mille RM UP-01 has surpassed the thinness record established by Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra (1.80mm) early this year. Combining most modern designs with performance, aesthetics and ruggedness, the new ultra-thin watch was developed in collaboration with prestigious Italian automotive brand Ferrari.
The RM UP-01 Ferrari is a culmination of many years of work and more than 6,000 hours of development and laboratory testing. Equipped with a robust manual-winding mechanical movement, this extremely thin watch can withstand accelerations of more than 5,000g’s.
Image Credit: RICHARD MILLE
The Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari has a monobloc case made of grade 5 titanium. Its case-back and bezel are satin-finished, with polished bevels. Secured with 13 grade 5 titanium spline screws and abrasion-proof washers in 316L stainless steel, the ultra-thin case offers a water resistance of 10 meters.
The watch features an out of the ordinary face (bezel) design. It displays the hour and minute on a sub-dial positioned at the upper portion. This small dial is topped with a sapphire crystal glass. On the top right side of the watch face is the sub-dial for the balance, protected with a sapphire crystal glass.
On the top left side, you will find an integrated function selector with two positions: W (winding) & H (hand-setting). The turning crown positioned between 7 and 8 o’clock offer two functions: manual-winding of the movement and time-setting. Both crowns are protected with black ceramic inserts, to ensure water resistance and eliminate friction.
Image Credit: RICHARD MILLE
This timepiece incorporates a patented ultra-flat escapement jointly developed by Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. This new type of escapement with a balance wheel in titanium significantly reduces the calibre’s thickness whilst providing the same security as a conventional Swiss anchor escapement. The new patented, ultra-flat escapement eliminates parts like the guard pin and the safety roller to maintain the thinness of the movement.
Displaying hours, minutes and function selector, the hand-wound mechanical movement has a power reserve of 45 hours.
Its base-plate and bridges are made of grade 5 Titanium, a biocompatible, highly corrosion-resistant and robust alloy. The skeletonised baseplate was subjected to separate and extensive validation tests to ensure it met rigorous optimal strength requirements.
Image Credit: RICHARD MILLE
For this watch, Richard Mille has developed an ultra-thin interpretation of its emblematic tonneau shape. The grade 5 Titanium case is just 1.75mm thick and the movement beating inside has a thickness of 1.18 mm.
The 23 jewel manual-wound ultra-flat movement measures 41.45mm length and 28.85 mm width. It balance frequency is 28’800 vph (4 Hz).
All the titanium case components of this ultra-thin timekeeper are machined at the Richard Mille movement department to meet the extremely demanding machining tolerance of a single micron. The Ferrari prancing horse symbol and all the references present on the case are laser-engraved.
The Richard Mille RM UP-01 watch is available in a limited edition of 150 pieces. It weighs just 30 grams including strap.
For the Only Watch 2021 charity event, Richard Mille has decided to donate the RM 67-02 CHARLES LECLERC PROTOTYPE watch.
Charles Leclerc is a Monégasque racing driver, currently racing in Formula One for Scuderia Ferrari, under the Monégasque flag. Richard Mille has continued to support Charles for over a decade and the RM 67-02 prototype has helped the brand to test new technical solutions for subsequent models.
The RM 67-02 Charles Leclerc is a prototype hand-painted in the colours of Charles Leclerc’s flag. With its satin-finished, bevelled hands and sharp lines, the in-house extra flat calibre CRMA7 actively conveys a sense of power and strength. The tight, taut lines of the rotor, crafted of Carbon TPT® and white gold, the bridges and the DLC coated grade 5 titanium baseplate sharply underscore the sporty quality of this timepiece.
The case is crafted in white and red Quartz TPT®, composite materials exclusive to Richard Mille possessing exceptional shock resistance.
The comfort strap, entirely seamless, perfectly fit the contours of each wrist, adapting to individual morphology. As the lightest strap the brand has ever created it makes the RM 67-02 the lightest automatic watch of the Richard Mille collection.
The future owner of the RM 67-02 will receive two passes for the next F1 Monaco grand prix. As VIP Guests of Scuderia Ferrari, they will have the opportunity to meet Charles Leclerc and attend to the race at the heart of the Scuderia paddock.
Technical details
RM 67-02 CHARLES LECLERC PROTOTYPE
Case
Red and White Quartz TPT®
Dimensions: 47.25 x 38.70 x 7.80 mm
Dial
Grade 5 titanium case, hand-painted in the colours of Charles Leclerc’s flag
Movement
In-house calibre CRMA7: Skeletonised automatic-winding movement with hours and minutes.
This extraordinary mechanical timepiece from the House of Richard Mille features a wrist hugging, ergonomically curving tripartite case made of sapphire and a manual winding tourbillon movement.
Pharrell Williams has been known for his ardent passion for the science fiction series Star Trek. This new timepiece by Richard Mille reflects the same passion. Its dial illustrates the Valles Marineris’ view on the astronaut’s helmet.
The watch is equipped with Calibre RM52-05, a hand-wound mechanical tourbillon movement with hours and minutes function. Its base-plate and bridges are made of Grade 5 titanium, a biocompatible, highly corrosion-resistant and rigid alloy. The titanium structure of the movement evokes rocket launching platforms. Inspired by the cosmic universe, the base-plate features large inserts in alluring blue aventurine glass.
The terminal-curve spring equipping the balance wheel guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shocks or strong vibrations and during movement assembly and disassembly, hence ensuring better chronometric results over time. The regulator index is eliminated, and a more accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible thanks to 4 setting screws.
The fast rotating barrel significantly eliminates the phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion. It also has the provision of an excellent mainspring delta curve. These qualities ensure excellent performance and better power reserve. The central involute profile of the winding-barrel teeth provides an optimal pressure angle of 20°. This promotes effective rotary motion and compensates for possible variations in the engagement of the going train, thus ensuring excellent torque transmission with a distinct improvement in performance.
The grade 5 titanium helmet resting on a structure depicting the upper part of a spacesuit, also in grade 5 titanium, connects the dial to the movement beneath it. It has been painted white using an airbrush that was initially developed for street artist Cyril Kongo, who hand-painted the RM 68-01.
The projectors and cameras are represented by two diamonds and a black sapphire set on either side of the helmet. To recreate the imaginary Martian scene, the curved 5N gold visor has been engraved using specially created burins, grand-feu-enamelled and then hand-painted.
The bezel ring and caseback are made of brown Cermet, a high tech material that combines the lightness of titanium with the hardness of ceramic. Both these parts are affixed to a caseband made of Carbon TPT®. The tripartite case of the RM 52-05 is milled and ground from blocks of solid sapphire.
The watch is water-resistant to 50 metres, ensured by 2 Nitrile O-ring seals, and is assembled using 24 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion-resistant washers in 316L stainless steel.
The Richard Mille RM 52-05 Manual Winding Tourbillon Pharrell Williams is limited to 8 pieces.
Technical details
Model: Richard Mille RM 52-05 Manual Winding Tourbillon Pharrell Williams
Case
Sapphire case, tripartite
Crystal
Bezel side: in sapphire (hardness of 1800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (both sides); Thickness: 1.50 mm
Case back side: in sapphire (hardness of 1800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (both sides); Thickness: 1.20 mm
Movement
Calibre Rm52-05
Manual winding tourbillon movement with hours and minutes
Dimensions: 32.80 x 30.90 mm
Thickness: 6.40 mm
Tourbillon diameter: 10.90 mm
Balance wheel diameter: 9.12 mm
Jewels: 19
Balance wheel: Glucydur®, 2 arms and 4 setting screws
Moment of inertia: 11.50 mg.cm2, angle of lift: 53°
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Balance spring: elinvar by Nivarox®
Shock protection: KIF ELASTOR KE 160 B28
Barrel shaft: in nickel-free Chronifer® (DIN x 46 Cr 13 + S) with the following characteristics: stainless – antimagnetic – suitable for tempering
– Microblasted surfaces
– Satin-finished surfaces
– Hand-polished anglage
– Long strokes
– Brushed strokes
– Long side strokes
– Polished edges
Wheels
– Diamond chamfering
– Circular decorated faces
– Rhodium plating (before cutting the teeth) Minimal corrections applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance.
Richard Mille presents RM 07-02 Automatic Winding Sapphire, an ultra-feminine watch crafted from colored sapphire. After the immense success of their gem-set ceramic and Carbon TPT® watches, Richard Mille now comes with a colored sapphire case adorned with diamonds.
Sculpted from colored sapphire taken from a single block, the watch case features an elegant tonneau shape. Due to its extreme hardness, Sapphire is a material difficult to machine. Further, finishing and setting diamonds into a sapphire case are also challenging. Richard Mille has succeeded in both the above process thanks to the high-end watch manufacture’s expertise in dealing with innovative materials, technical know-how and uncompromising quality controls.
The watch houses the automatic movement Calibre CRMA5 in 18k 5N red gold or white gold and set with hundreds of diamonds. The skeletonised movement comes in micro blasted white gold for the green and blue sapphire versions, and in 5N red gold for the pink and brown sapphire versions.
The baseplate and the bridges of this haute-horlogerie movement are machined from 18K red gold or white gold, which is microblasted and bevelled by hand. The baseplate is decorated and set with hundreds of diamonds, an aesthetic feat achieved thanks to the long and delicate work of the gem setter. The skeletonised baseplate and bridges were subjected to separate and extensive validation tests to optimise their resistance capacities.
Beating at the rate of 28,800 vph (4 Hz), the movement provides a power reserve of up to 50 hours. The rotor allows to be set according to the owner’s activity level. The setting is modified by adjusting two weights that can be adjusted and fixed in place by spline screws. The inertia of the movement is increased when the two weights are closer to each other; the barrel then rewinds more quickly. If the weights are positioned at the extremities of the rotor, the inertia is decreased and the barrel winds more slowly.
This high-tech mechanical movement is fitted with a fast-rotating barrel. It diminishes the phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion, thereby increasing performance. This fast-rotating barrel also has an excellent mainspring delta curve with an ideal power reserve/performance and regularity ratio.
The entire going train of the watch, the primary transmitter of power to the movement, utilises a special profile for the wheel teeth with a 20˚ pressure angle. This system equalises any discrepancies that might arise between the centres of each wheel, for instance during thermal changes and normal use, and promotes an excellent transmission of torque to the balance wheel, thus supporting superior chronometric results.
This type of balance wheel represents the ultimate in innovation. It guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shocks or during movement assembly or disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index is eliminated, and a more accurate and repeatable calibration is possible thanks to 4 small, adjustable weights located directly on the balance.
The tonneau shaped case measures 32.90 x 46.75 x 14.35 mm. In some versions, the bezel is set with diamonds. Setting each element of the sapphire case is a real engineering feat requiring a laser operating to the nearest micrometre. In the diamond-set cases, Prongs in red or grey hand-polished gold, made separately, are then inserted, creating multiple settings to hold a delicate row of diamonds.
Maintaining transparency, the colored sapphire case allows you to admire all the details of the movement structure, finishing and the beautiful diamond setting of the interior. Depends upon the version, the watch dial is available in mother-of-pearl, jasper or pave-set stones.
Technical details
Movement
CALIBRE CRMA5
Skeletonised automatic-winding in-house movement
Hours, minutes and variable-geometry rotor
Baseplate, bridges and variable geometry rotor in gem-set 5N red gold
Power reserve: Circa 50 hours (± 10%).
Movement dimensions: 29.90 x 22.00 mm
Thickness: 5.05 mm
Number of jewels: 25
Balance: CuBe, 4 arms, 4 setting screws, moment of inertia 7.5 mg•cm 2, angle of lift 50°
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Balance spring: AK3
Shock protection: INCABLOC 908.22.211.100 (transparent)
Escapement wheel jewels: Rubifix (transparent)
• Heavy external outside edge and heavy edge ring in 5N red gold
• Weight segment in heavy metal
• Ceramic ball bearings
• Automatic OneWay® ceramic winding system with ball bearings
• Bidirectional winding system
Case
Colored sapphire (green, blue, pink or brown)
Dimensions: 32.90 x 46.75 x 14.35 mm
For the 8th edition of Only Watch, to be held on the 9th November in Geneva, Richard Mille is offering a prototype of the RM 11-03 McLaren, an automatic flyback chronograph watch created in close collaboration with the car manufacturer’s engineers.
The design director at McLaren, Rob Melville, and Richard Mille engineers combined their know-how to meet a technical challenge: integrating in this McLaren watch the curves both aesthetic and functional, specific to the manufacturer, along with their stylistic codes.
The case of the RM 11-03 McLaren is made of Carbon TPT® interlaced with Orange Quartz TPT®, resulting in an extremely resistant and light-weight housing that also pays tribute to the brand’s history in a colour that is synonymous with McLaren. The Carbon TPT® enhances the mechanical performance of the RM 11-03 and provides resistance in harsh environments.
The titanium pushers fitted to the Carbon TPT® case echo the distinctive headlamp design of the McLaren 720S. Titanium inserts, recalling the iconic McLaren F1’s air-intake snorkel and bearing the McLaren logo, adorn the bezel. The complex grade 5 titanium crown is shaped like a McLaren lightweight wheel. Meanwhile, the McLaren Speedmark logo is incorporated into the rubber strap specifically developed for this edition.
Under the bonnet of the RM 11-03 beats the automatic RMAC3 calibre, first launched in 2016, with a flyback chronograph that is ready to literally race on the track. The instant return of the counter to zero makes it possible to quickly restart the stopwatch function. Powered by two barrels mounted in parallel and a balance wheel with variable inertia, the movement has a 55-hour power reserve. Barrel winding is ensured by a variable-geometry rotor that enables personalised winding adjusted to the wearer’s activity level, further evidence of Richard Mille’s characteristic attentiveness.
The fact that a race car’s chassis must always exhibit tremendous torque resistance while remaining light in weight inspired the brand, which adopted these requirements as its own in producing the baseplate and bridges for this calibre, crafted of PVD-treated grade 5 titanium to ensure the requisite stiffness and perfect functioning of the going train. The satin-finish grade 5 titanium upper bridge further accentuates the depth of the calibre, creating a visual trajectory around the annual calendar and oversized date as well as the 12-hour chronograph and countdown counters.
In addition to the RM 11-03 McLaren prototype, the buyer will receive from McLaren a tailor-made official driver’s racing overall, a ‘Pure McLaren Experience’ driving day with test pilot Bruno Senna, as well as a private tour of the McLaren Technology Centre, their famous headquarters and production site in Woking, England.
Airbus Corporate Jets (ACJ) and Richard Mille have launched a new travel-watch, inspired by and adapted to, exclusive journeys on an Airbus corporate jet.
Called the RM 62-01 Tourbillon Vibrating Alarm ACJ1, the new watch’s innovative features include a discreet alarm that alerts the wearer through vibrations that only they can feel. The Vibrating Alarm complication was developed by Richard Mille with Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi. Its principle rests the automatic trigger, at the programmed time, of a vibrating signal produced by the rotation of an oscillating weight. Machined from a single piece of white gold, this weight is precisely calibrated to oscillate at 5,400 rpm.
Thanks to its dial and two hands, the alarm may be adjusted to the nearest minute of a full 24 hours, using the function selector situated at 3 o’clock. An on/off indicator at 5 o’clock completes the mechanism. The maximum duration of the vibration, which has a dedicated barrel, is 12 seconds. It can be recharged by pressing a 12 times on the pusher at 8 o’clock. The power reserve can be viewed on a scale situated at 7 o’clock.
A pusher located at the centre of the crown makes it possible to select among five different functions with a simple push: winding, hand setting, alarm setting, UTC setting and neutral position. A disc at 3 o’clock displays the selected mode against a light-coloured ground: N (Neutral) — W (winding) — T (time setting) — U (UTC hand setting) — A (Alarm setting). Located at 6 o’clock is a disc indicating whether the time displayed is Ante Meridiem (AM) or Post Meridiem (PM). Further, a semi-instantaneous oversize date display is placed in a red outlined horizontal aperture under 12 o’clock.
This new watch encapsulates the pioneering, proven and industry-leading expertise from two companies, known for delivering the highest standards and most exclusive customer experiences in their industries. An evolution of an earlier watch, it continues a partnership begun in 2016.
The announcement of this new watch was made alongside a 1/20th scale model of the ACJ320neo featuring a Melody cabin in unique Richard Mille livery, highlighting the link between the companies.
As with the previous watch collaboration, sketches of the new design were initially created by ACJ Head of Creative Design, Sylvain Mariat, with the watch being turned into reality by a team at Richard Mille, including Salvador Arbona, Technical Director for Movements.
The face of the new watch comprises titanium/Carbon TPT® that has been machined to represent the shape of an aircraft window, revealing different layers that echo the grain of the exotic wood typically found in corporate jet cabins. The crown-winder features engine fan blades, while the sides of the watch are reminiscent of intricate, sculpted, metal aircraft structure, as are miniature torque-set screws. Skeletonisation – a hallmark of Richard Mille watches – reveals the sophistication of the movement inside – visible through the transparent front and back.
The caseback and bezel are comprised of a first bezel in polished and satin-finished grade 5 titanium, to which is affixed a second bezel, just 1.80 mm in thickness, machined from Carbon TPT®. The caseband and pushers are also milled from Carbon TPT® enhanced with stiffeners in microblasted and polished grade 5 titanium. The case is assembled with 20 Torq-Set® screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion-resistant washers in 316L stainless steel. This type of screw is employed in the aerospace industry to ensure optimal control and transmission of torque.
The crown incorporates a special security system to prevent accidental over-winding, which could cause damage to the winding stem or place extreme pressure.
Technical details
Model: RM 62-01 TOURBILLON ACJ Limited edition of 30 pieces in titanium and Carbon TPT®
Movement
Calibre RM62-01
Manual winding tourbillon movement with hours, minutes, oversize date, UTC (Universal Time Coordinated), am/pm indicator, function selector, power-reserve indicator
Vibrating alarm function with on/off activation indicator
Power Reserve: Circa 70 hours (± 10%), indicated at 11 o’clock
Skeletonised Baseplate and Bridges Made of Grade 5 Titanium
Chronofiable® A8 certification
Free-sprung balance with variable inertia: The free-sprung balance at 9 o’clock offers increased reliability in the event of shocks and movement assembly or disassembly, thus achieving better chronometric results over time. The index has been eliminated, allowing more precise and repeatable adjustment using 4 setting screws.
Winding barrel teeth and third-wheel pinion with central involute profile: The wheel with a central developing profile and a pressure angle of 20° promotes rolling movement more effectively by compensating for variations in gear engagement, thus ensuring excellent torque transmission with a distinct improvement in performance.
– Movement dimensions: 31.92 x 31.99 mm
– Thickness: 7.75 mm
– Tourbillon diameter: 12.30 mm
– Balance wheel diameter: 10.00 mm
– Jewels: 77
– Balance: Glucydur®, with 2 arms and 4 setting screws
– Moment of inertia: 10 mg.cm2, angle of lift 53°
– Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
– Balance spring: elinvar by Nivarox®
– Shock protection: KIF Elastor KE 160 B28
– Barrel shaft in nickel-free Chronifer® (DIN x 46 Cr 13 + S), with the following characteristics: stainless – antimagnetic, suitable for tempering
Fast-Rotating Barrel (6 Hours Per Revolution Instead Of 7.5 Hours): This type of barrel provides the following advantages. The phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion is significantly diminished, thereby increasing performance. Provision of an excellent mainspring delta curve with an ideal power reserve/performance and regularity ratio
Barrel Pawl with Progressive Recoil: This device permits an appreciable winding gain (circa 20%), especially during the start of winding. It is also helpful in evenly distributing the mainspring’s internal tension.
Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium for the Bridges: This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
Finishing
Movement
– Hand-polished bevelling
– Hand-polished locking-sections
– Sunray brushing finishing on bridges
– Sapphire-microblasted milled sections
– Lapped and polished contact points
– Burnished pivots
Steel Parts
– Sapphire-blasted surfaces
– Anglage and polishing by hand
Wheels
– Concave chamfering with a diamond tool
– Circular finished faces
– Rhodium plating (before cutting the teeth)
– Minimal corrections applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance.
Unveiled at SIHH 2019 haute-horlogerie exhibition in Geneva, the Richard Mille Bonbon Collection comprises 10 models, each produced in an edition of 30 pieces. Composed of candies, pastries and fruit, these 10 horological treats once again subvert existing conventions, habits and expectations.
Displaying their mastery of expertise in the area of materials, colour and form, Richard Mille has taken the lid off a candy jar to reveal two kinds of confections for the wrist. Based on three of the brand’s iconic models, the RM 07-03, RM 16-01 and RM 37-01 offer a passage back to childhood with the simple pleasure of slightly regressive and thoroughly tasty memories, to be enjoyed without moderation.
Despite its disruptive appearance, the Richard Mille Bonbon Collection is directly descended from earlier Richard Mille creations. Take colour—the brand is continuously expanding its range. Forays into the spectrum of greens, crimson, yellow and even pink are possible thanks to a mastery of materials, many of them exclusive, that is a Richard Mille specialty.
The brand’s understanding of how tinted ceramics behave, expertise in layering materials like Carbon TPT® and Quartz TPT® and constant improvements to the setting of coloured gemstones are all ingredients in these confectionary recipes, which are singularly imaginative, playful, distinctive and, most importantly, appetizing. Lastly, a finely honed eye for detail makes these 10 models stunning graphic compositions that offer a wealth of shades and textures appearing in every component of the watch. The crowns and some of the caseband, for instance, take the shape of a particular treat, such as a cupcake or gelato.
The Sweets collection comprises four models, all with two-tone ceramic cases that set off their grand feu enamel or black-chromed titanium confections. The RM 07-03 Cupcake, RM 07-03 Marshmallow, RM 37-01 Sucette and RM 16-01 Réglisse are colourful and delectable, evoking a whole spectrum of flavours. Better yet, the textures you expect to encounter upon biting into these sweets are conjured visually thanks to a mastery of enamelwork that succeeds in evoking sensations like softness, crunchiness, and fluffiness.
The creamy quality of the TZP ceramic case is enhanced by the varied matt and polished effects of elements on the dial. Black, a foundational colour in the technical vocabulary of Richard Mille, is presented in a whole new light here, as a giant roll of liquorice that occupies the entire surface of a dial. Here, the most satisfactory solution for obtaining the liquorice shape of the RM 16-01 was a stamping operation, followed by a black chrome coating that lends this piece its spot-on colour and texture.
The Fruit line is a homage to the very concept of sweet temptation in six delectable flavours: Lemon and Strawberry (RM 16-01 Citron et Fraise), Blueberry and Litchi (RM 07-03 Myrtille et Litchi), Kiwi and Cherry (RM 37-01 Kiwi et Cerise).
In addition to colour-gradient cases made of Carbon TPT® combined with Quartz TPT® of a different hue for each model is an all-new turquoise colour. Painted in acrylics and lacquered by hand, the 3,000 miniature sculptures integrated in these compositions stand out from the dials, turning each one into a sachet full of tiny candies. To further enhance their realism, a ‘sugar coating’ effect was achieved using powdered enamel and the fine sand employed in hourglasses.
Tart jelly ribbons, twisty lollipops, candy citrus segments, gumdrops and other surprises are positioned on plates of grade 5 titanium that are machined and skeletonised like horological components.
Luxury Swiss watch brands Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille have announced the withdrawal of their partnership with the prestigious luxury watch event SIHH.
Audemars Piguet is ending its collaboration with the SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) after 19 years of partnership. The manufacture from Le Brassus will attend the SIHH for the last time in 2019.
The evolving nature of the watchmaking industry is such that Audemars Piguet’s business model is changing and the Manufacture has decided to explore new directions in order to forge closer and more direct relationships with end-clients and watch enthusiasts worldwide.
Richard Mille has also announced their withdrawal from the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) following the 2019 edition. The Richard Mille brand has developed considerably its international distribution network over the last few years, notably by opening a growing number of dedicated mono-brand boutiques.
In turn, it has drastically reduced its representation through multi-brand retailers in order to qualitatively satisfy a constant increase in demand. Consequently, the brand’s presence at exhibitions no longer corresponds to its strategy for exclusive and selective distribution.
Richard Mille has created its new timepiece, the RM 53-01 Tourbillon Pablo Mac Donough in partnership with Pablo Mac Donough, one of the world’s best polo players. Sporty and dynamic, this watch reveals a suspended tourbillon calibre, visible through the unprecedented laminated sapphire glass of its Carbon TPT® case.
That one of polo’s greatest champions should be able to wear a watch in the midst of play, and a tourbillon at that, is by no means a miracle. Rather, it bespeaks years of research and studies of how a wristwatch resists when confronted with violent blows. Experts in this area, the brand designed the RM 53-01 around a single goal: making it extremely tough, while unveiling its calibre.
Well aware that regular glass would not provide the necessary resistance to ward off the impact of a mallet, engineers for the brand, collaborating with Stettler – a world-renowned sapphire specialist – took inspiration from current practices in the automotive realm to produce a laminated glass.
Use of this glass, composed of two sheets of sapphire glass separated by a thin Polyvinyl film, constitutes a horological first. In the face of the strong shockwave produced by a blow from a mallet, the glass will crack, but without ever shattering. With anti-reflective and UV coatings, this glass, which preserves the movement from the external environment, is patented exclusively to Richard Mille.
Punctuated by notches that reinforce its structural integrity, the case is machined in Carbon TPT®, a fabulously tough and virtually indestructible protection, recognised for its excellent resistance to micro-cracks and tears. The characteristic damascene sheen of Carbon TPT® and sharp lines of the case speak to the especially sporty nature of this watch.
Shock is the enemy of a tourbillon movement. To solve this Richard Mille has created cable-suspended movement. The atypical architecture of this design required the creation of two separate baseplates. The first, or ‘peripheral’ baseplate, is fixed to the case and supports the tensioner mechanisms. The second, known as the ‘central’ baseplate, is linked to the peripheral baseplate by cables and incorporates the wheels comprising the calibre as well as the winding mechanism.
The central baseplate rests, like a spider in the middle of its web, on two braided steel cables just 0.27 mm in diameter. These cables, sketching a three-dimensional structure in their path through 10 pulleys, are anchored by 4 tensioners. The watchmaker is responsible for tensioning the cables by rotating a spline screw located at the centre of each tensioner. By ensuring an even distribution of tension, this pulley system guarantees perfect balance of the whole mechanism.
The suspended movement and the use of grade 5 titanium (double baseplate and bridges) contribute increased stiffness, while ensuring smooth functioning of the going train and optimal shock protection.
The RM 53-01 Tourbillon Pablo Mac Donough is a limited edition of 30 pieces in Carbon TPT®.
Technical details
Model: RM 53-01 MANUAL WINDING TOURBILLON – PABLO MAC DONOUGH Limited edition of 30 pieces
Movement
CALIBRE RM53-01: manual winding tourbillon movement with hours and minutes.
Dimensions: 44.50 x 49.94 x 16.15 mm
Power Reserve: Circa 70 hours (±10%)
DOUBLE SKELETONISED BASEPLATE WITH GRADE 5 TITANIUM BRIDGES: Grade 5 titanium is employed for the bridges and the highly atypical double baseplate construction, which consists of a first, ‘central’ baseplate that firmly holds together the various wheels of the calibre, and a second, ‘peripheral’ baseplate, attached to the central baseplate by cables and supporting the entire tensioner system. Grade 5 titanium is a biocompatible alloy used in aeronautics for its high resistance to corrosion, remarkable lightness, and low expansion coefficient. The suspended movement and this titanium comprised of 90% titanium, 6% aluminium and 4% vanadium together improve the strength of the movement, ensuring smooth functioning of the going train and optimal shock resistance. The skeletonised baseplate and the bridges were subjected to separate and extensive validation tests to meet rigorous strength requirements and offer an extreme weight/resistant ratio.
CABLE-SUSPENSION MECHANISM: The movement at the heart of the RM 53-01 rests on 2 braided steel cables just 0.27 mm in diameter. The tension of these cables is made possible by the 10 pulleys and 4 tensioners affixed to the peripheral baseplate and to each side of the main bridge. The cables run through the tackle pulley system and are attached to the tensioners on the other side. The watchmaker tensions the system by tightening a spline screw located at the centre of each tensioner. The pulleys ensure that the tension of the cable remains constant, and therefore that the system is balanced. Designed to sit suspended within the case, the calibre RM53-01 can withstand shocks exceeding 5,000 g’s.
FREE SPRUNG BALANCE WITH VARIABLE INERTIA: This type of balance wheel guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shocks and during assembly or dismantling of the movement, thus achieving better chronometric results over time. The index is eliminated, thereby allowing a more precise and repeatable adjustment using 4 setting screws.
FAST-ROTATING BARREL (6 hours per revolution instead of 7.5 hours): This type of barrel provides the following advantages:
• The phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion is significantly diminished, thereby increasing performance,
• An excellent mainspring delta curve with an ideal power reserve/performance and regularity ratio.
BARREL PAWL WITH PROGRESSIVE RECOIL: This device permits an appreciable winding gain (circa 20%), especially during the start of winding. It is also helpful in distributing the mainspring’s internal tension effectively.
WINDING-BARREL TEETH AND THIRD-WHEEL PINION WITH CENTRAL INVOLUTE PROFILE: The central involute profile of the winding-barrel teeth provides an optimal pressure angle of 20°, which promotes effective rotary motion and compensates for possible variations in the operation of the going train. This, in turn, ensures excellent torque transmission and a distinct improvement in performance.
SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE BRIDGES: The design of these screws permits better control of the torque applied during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
OTHER FEATURES
– Movement dimensions: 31.94 x 30.26 mm
– Thickness: 6.35 mm
– Tourbillon diameter: 12.40 mm
– Balance diameter: 10.00 mm
– Number of jewels: 19
– Balance wheel: Glucydur®, 2 arms and 4 setting screws
– Inertia moment: 11.50 mg.cm2, lift angle 53°
– Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
– Balance spring: elinvar by Nivarox®
– Shock protection: KIF Elastor KE 160 B28
– Barrel shaft in nickel-free Chronifer® (DIN x 46 Cr 13 + S) with the following properties: stainless – antimagnetic – suitable for tempering
Case
The tripartite case is crafted of Carbon TPT®, whose remarkable surface displays complex damascene patterns. Carbon TPT® consists of over 600 layers of parallel filaments obtained by separating carbon threads. With a maximum thickness of 30 microns, the Carbon TPT® layers are saturated with resin, then compiled on a special machine that modifies the orientation of the fibres between each layer by 45°. Once it has been heated to 120°C and subjected to a pressure of 6 bars, the Carbon TPT® is machined at Richard Mille’s factory. Carbon TPT® is renowned for its excellent resistance to micro-cracks and splits. The complete case construction is water-resistant to 50 metres thanks to two Nitrile O-rings, and is assembled using 20 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and 316L stainless steel washers.
SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE CASE: The design of these screws permits better control of the torque applied during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
LAMINATED SAPPHIRE GLASS: A new patented sapphire glass and a world premiere in the realm of watchmaking, the RM 53-01 is equipped with a glass of laminated sapphire crystal. In case of impact, this glass may crack, like a car’s windscreen, but under no circumstances shatter, thereby protecting the movement, as verified during impact pendulum testing, when a metal spike was added to the 4.5 kg weight. Comprised of two sheets of sapphire crystal separated by a Polyvinyl membrane, this glass is also protected by anti-UV and non-reflective coatings. Thickness: 2.40 mm at the centre; 5.69 mm at the edges.
TORQUE-LIMITING CROWN: This additional security system prevents accidental overwinding, which could cause damage to the winding stem or put extreme pressure on the mainspring barrel.
FLANGE: Titanium grade 5 with hour markers filled with approved luminescent material
Finishing
Movement
– Anglage and polishing by hand
– Shot-blasted milled sections
– Black and grey PVD treatment for the baseplates and bridges
Steel parts
– Microblasted surfaces
– Satin-finished surfaces
– Anglage and polishing by hand
– Long strokes
– Matte ‘brouillé’ strokes
– Polished sinks
Profile-turning
– Lapped and polished ends
– Burnished pivots
Wheels
– Diamond-polished sinks
– Circular decorations on the front surfaces
– Rhodium plating (before cutting the teeth)
– Minimal corrections are made to the wheels to preserve their geometry and overall performance.
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