Celebrating its 30th Anniversary year, RGM adds another Railroad dial to the Model 222-RR series.

Inspired by America’s Great Railroad Watches from the past, the Model 222-RR is a modern wristwatch with a vintage heart, featuring a Hamilton pocket watch movement. RGM was the first to use these wonderful classic movements in a wristwatch.

These vintage Hamilton movements are rebuilt using parts that are in optimum condition, including a new mainspring made for this movement. The watchmaker of RGM flat polishes the steel parts by hand on a tin block to better-than-original condition.

The entire process of careful reassembly to precise adjustment of the movement is managed by one watchmaker. The grade 921 movement has 21 jewels and was made in large quantities; the grade 923 has 23 jewels and is rare, with less than 4,000 movements manufactured.

The Grand Feu Real Enamel dial is modeled after American railroad watches from the past. The blued-steel hands remain true to the classic form and the 1:30 crown position pays homage to early 20th century timepieces. It’s also very natural to read the time when worn on the left wrist.

Henry S. Montgomery was the General Watch & Clock Inspector of the AT&SF Railroad from 1896 to 1923. Mr. Montgomery patented his first marginal minute safety dial design Type I around 1906. This is the design that has inspired the new version of RGM’s Model 222-RR watch.

A Montgomery dial displays minutes 1-60 along the outer edge, with every fifth number in red. Some collectors say that a “true” Montgomery dial must have an hour number 6 visible inside the seconds’ register. Dials approved for use on the railroads needed to be functional and readable, even under adverse conditions. Most American watch companies used Montgomery dials on many of their railroad-grade watches.

The watch features the crown at the 1:30 position. During the Transitional Period from the early 1900s into the 1920s, some wristwatches appeared with the winding crown in this less common position on the wristwatch case.

Some watch companies converted movements and dials that were originally designed for a pocket or pendant watch into a wristwatch by making the crown position on the wristwatch case at the 1:30 or 2:00 O’clock.

Celebrating the unique look of those early wristwatches is the inspiration behind the RGM Model 222-RR. It also keeps the orientation of the sub-second in line with the 12 O’clock position thus preserving the original design of the railroad-style dial.

Technical details

Movement
10 Size Vintage USA made Hamilton grade 921 or 923, manual winding
21 or 23 jewels
Frequency: 18,000 vph
Power Reserve: 42-45 hours
Rhodium
Circular Demaskeening
Motor-Barrel
Anglage

Functions
Hour / Minute / Second

Case
Stainless steel with the crown position at 1:30
Diameter: 41.0mm
Height: 12.0mm
Lug Width: 22mm
Sapphire crystal front and back
Water-resistant to 5-ATM

Dial
Glass Enamel, Grand Feu (“Great Fire”)
Hands: Blued-Steel Railroad style
Crown: Stainless steel

Strap
Thick Leather with contrast stitching

Price
$6450 with the 921 movement
$7950 with the 923 movement

Inspired by America’s Great Railroad Watches from the Past, the US watch manufacture RGM adds new Railroad dial version to their Model 222-RR series.

The Model 222-RR is a modern wristwatch with a vintage heart, featuring a Hamilton 10 sized pocket watch movement. RGM was the first to use these wonderful classic movements in a wristwatch. These vintage Hamilton movements are rebuilt using parts that are in optimum condition, including a new mainspring made for this movement.

The watchmakers at RGM Watch Company flat polish the steel parts by hand on a tin block to better-than-original condition. The entire process of careful reassembly to precise adjustment of the movement is managed by one watchmaker. The grade 921 movement has 21 jewels and was made in large quantities; the grade 923 has 23 jewels and is rare, with less than 4,000 movements manufactured.

The Grand Feu Real Enamel dial is modeled after American railroad watches from the past. The blued-steel hands remain true to the classic form and the 1:30 crown position pays homage to early 20th century timepieces. It’s also very natural to read the time when worn on the left wrist.

The Model 222-RR now welcomes a new dial version: Type II Montgomery Marginal Minute Style Dial. Henry S. Montgomery was the General Watch & Clock Inspector of the AT&SF Railroad from 1896 to 1923. Mr. Montgomery patented his first marginal minute safety dial design Type-I around 1906. RGM’s dial is inspired by the rare Type-II dial variation that was patented in 1920.

A Montgomery dial displays minutes 1-60 along the outer edge, with every fifth number in red. Some collectors say that a “true” Montgomery dial must have an hour number 6 visible inside the seconds register. Dials approved for use on the railroads needed to be functional and readable, even under adverse conditions. Most American watch companies used Montgomery dials on many of their railroad-grade watches.

The Model 222-RR watch is also available with a box car style dial. In 1925, Ball introduced a new official RR standard dial referred to as the Box Car dial. It displayed plain, sans-serif, heavy hour figures, making the dial extremely legible.

Waltham, too, offered a similar Box Car dial, as did Elgin and Hamilton on some of their railroad models. Box Car style dials were in demand by railroad employees. They remain popular for their functionality and understated style.

Technical details

Model: RGM Model 222-RR (Railroad) Type II Montgomery Marginal Minute

Movement
10 Size Vintage USA made Hamilton grade 921 or 923, manual winding
21 or 23 jewels
18,000 vph
Rhodium
Circular Demaskeening
Motor-Barrel
Anglage
Power Reserve: 42-45 hours

Functions
Hour / Minute / Second

Case
Stainless steel with crown at 1:30
Sapphire crystal front and back, water-resistant to 5-ATM
Dimensions: Diameter: 41.0mm
Height: 12.0mm
Lug Width: 22mm
Crown: Stainless steel

Dial
Glass Enamel, Grand Feu (“Great Fire”)
Hands: Blued-Steel Railroad style

Strap
Thick Leather with contrast stitching

Price
$5950: for model with the 921 movement
$7950: for model with the 923 movement

RGM introduces the Model 500-GMT-RS, a limited edition watch created in partnership with Bicycle frame builder Richard Sachs.

The Model 500-GMT-RS is the first RGM with a bi-directional-turning GMT bezel. The watch is designed as a sport watch that is also ideal for travel when using the 24-hour GMT hand and bezel.

To help ensure the durability, the watch has two case-back gaskets, a 2mm thick sapphire crystal, and a high-quality screw-down crown. The bezel is deep engraved, and the numbers are ceramic filled. The 3 dimensional designed ribbing on the case side creates a beautiful aesthetic for this versatile sport watch.

Bicycle frame builder Richard Sachs and Roland Murphy have a passion for handcrafting and making very special products for their clients, often creating bespoke pieces of art. They can be described as traditionalists who believe in providing customer service and building the right product for each individual.

Years ago they designed the first RGM/Richard Sachs watch, since then they have had many requests for a new model, so they teamed up again to create a truly special GMT watch. The unique Richard Sachs logo is incorporated into the 24-Hour GMT hand, and the case-back engraving.

The new RGM/Richard Sachs watch is available in a limited edition of 50 pieces.

Technical Specifications

Movement
RGM-ETA 2893-2 – Swiss made GMT automatic
21 jewels
28,800 vph
Rhodium Finish
Cote de Geneve
Perlage
Power Reserve: 42 hours

Case
316L stainless steel, water-resistant to 10-ATM
Two case-back gaskets, 2mm thick sapphire crystal
Bi-Directional 24-hour turning bezel
Diameter: 41mm
Height: 11.3mm
Width between lugs: 22mm

Dial
Matte black with XL strength Superlumanova
2 level design

Hands
Sport hands with XL strength Superlumanova
Partial or full lume available

Crown
Stainless steel with Keystone insignia

Strap
Hirsch Performance, leather and rubber construction

Price
USD $4750

US watch brand RGM introduces its latest timepiece, the PS-801-Skeleton.

The Caliber 801 was introduced in 2007 as RGM’s first in-house movement. Now, after more than a year in development, RGM introduces a classic skeleton version of its most famous movement.

A solid gold plaque at the bottom of the dial divides the minute into thirds. The three arm second hand enables a clear view of the movement and the escapement. The different lengths of the arms of the second hand allow for easy reading of the seconds as they pass.

All of the components of the movement are hand finished using traditional techniques. The matte grain finish and polished bevels (anglage) on the bridges and main plate require many hours by a skilled craftsman.

Inspiration was taken from skeleton watches from the early 20th century which were less ornate with clean lines and a functional aesthetic.

The watch is housed in a polished stainless steel Pennsylvania series case. With its large lugs and ribbed sides, the watch is architecture on the wrist. Like most of the components of the Caliber 801, the case is also made in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, USA, and finished by hand.

Technical details

Movement
Skeletonized American-made RGM Caliber 801, manual wind
19 jewels
18,000 vph
Rhodium
Fine Matte Graining
Perlage
Anglage
7-tooth winding click
Hand engraved balance bridge with Swan neck regulator
Power Reserve: 40-44 hours

Case
American-made polished stainless steel
Sapphire crystal front and case back
Diameter: 43.3mm
Height: 12.3mm
Width between lugs: 22mm
Crown: Stainless steel with Keystone insignia

Dial
Solid silver skeleton dial with solid gold plaques
Subsidiary seconds dial in thirds, with 3 arm second hand
Blued steel Keystone hour and minute hands

Strap
Alligator

Price
USD $21,400 Stainless Steel – Also, available in 18K Rose Gold $34,200

USA based traditional watch maker RGM adds its new watch model Classic Enamel to the 801 Pennsylvania Series Models.

The classic double sunk enamel dial of this new model is inspired by classic pocket watches from the past. The double sunk enamel dial is made of three separate pieces and then soldered together to make the dial; the same technique that was used on pocket watch dials over 100 years ago.

The three different layers of enamel give the dial depth and add to the overall beauty of the watch. This kind of dial can only be made by a very experienced and skilled enamel dial craftsman.

The Grand Feu technique was utilized to make these dials. The watch is powered with RGM’s original in-house movement: Caliber 801. Inspired by America’s great watchmaking history, the caliber 801 highlights classic bridge shapes reminiscent of Keystone Howard Watch Company’s Edward Howard model.

The unique winding click is inspired by the Illinois Illini model. The entirely hand finished and decorated 801 movement denotes the quality of its construction, including polished and blued steel components. The movement can also be customized.

The watch is housed in a polished stainless steel Pennsylvania series case. With its large lugs and ribbed sides, the watch is architecture on the wrist.

Like many of the components of the Caliber 801, the case is also made in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, USA, and finished by hand.

Technical details

Movement
American-made RGM Caliber 801, manual wind
19 jewels
18,000 vph
Rhodium or gold plated
Circular damaskeening
Perlage
Anglage
7-tooth winding click
Optional wolf’s tooth winding wheels available
Power Reserve: 40-44 hours

Case
American-made polished stainless steel
Sapphire crystal front and case back
Diameter: 43.3mm
Height: 12.3mm
Width between lugs: 22mm
Crown: Stainless steel with Keystone insignia

Dial
Grand Feu white enamel double-sunk
3 levels of enamel
Subsidiary seconds dial
Blued steel Breguet hands (Keystone hands also available)

Strap
Alligator

Price
USD$11,900 (steel), $24,700 rose gold

Inspired by art and old-world craft, RGM Watch Company has created men’s and ladies’ watches with art and handcraft as the main theme. The RGM Artwork watches feature the talents of artists from all over the world. Included techniques are cloisonné, wood marquetry, and miniature hand painting, one using luminous paint, and the other performed on a mother of pearl canvas.

The men’s watches highlight the arts of cloisonné and wood marquetry. The cloisonné dial is inspired by Claude Monet’s Regatta at Argenteuil. From St. Augustine, Florida, Castillo de San Marcos is the inspiration for the wood marquetry dial.

The art on the dial is framed by a 40mm stainless steel coin-edged American made case, with a Swiss automatic movement fitted with a solid gold winding rotor made by RGM.

The ladies’ watches showcase hand painting in miniature. A lotus flower is portrayed using luminous paint, revealing depth and character to the piece. The other watch features a floral design with a blue titmouse painted on mother of pearl, which brings the scene to life. These pieces of art are framed in a 28mm solid rose gold case (or optional stainless steel case) and are powered by a manual wind Swiss movement.

Like RGM’s other old-world crafts of guilloche and grand feu enamel, these techniques can also be commissioned in a unique bespoke piece per the client’s wishes.

Technical details

Model 25 Art Watches

Movement
New old stock Swiss-made, automatic winding
23 jewels
28,800 vph
Rhodium plated
Perlage
Anglage
RGM-made solid gold rotor
Power Reserve: 42 hours

Case
American-made polished stainless steel
Sapphire crystal front and case back
Dimensions: Diameter: 40mm
Height: 10.4mm
Width between lugs: 22mm

Dial
Hand-made cloisonné or wood marquetry
Crown: Stainless steel with Keystone insignia
Strap: Alligator

Price
USD$13,900

Lady RGM Art Watches

Movement
Swiss-made ETA/Peseux 7001, manual wind
17 jewels
21,600 vph
Rhodium plated
Cote de Genève lines
Perlage
Anglage
Power Reserve: 42 hours

Case
American-made polished stainless steel or Swiss-made 18k rose gold
Sapphire crystal front and case back
Dimensions: Diameter: 28mm
Height: 7.7mm
Width between lugs: 15mm

Dial
Hand painted on mother of pearl, or with superluminova paint
Crown: Stainless steel or gold with Keystone insignia
Strap: Alligator

Price
USD$24,900 full diamond 18k rose gold case with hand painted MOP dial
USD$15,900 with 18k rose gold case and hand painted luminous dial

Other versions
Stainless steel versions available

United States based luxury watch brand RGM has reissued the popular William Penn Model. The William Penn, originally released about 18 years ago, features a tonneau-shaped movement in either a stainless steel or 18k rose gold rectangular case.

The original William Penn models were introduced with three versions – one with a sub-second, one with date and one with moon phase. The current reissue includes only the moon phase model, marrying a new guilloché dial with new old stock case and hands.

The William Penn series is named after the founder of Pennsylvania. Penn established an American sanctuary which protected freedom of conscience. He gave Pennsylvania a written constitution which limited the power of government, provided a humane penal code and guaranteed many fundamental liberties. The renowned founder of Pennsylvania was also a modest man: he worried people would think he named the state after himself; in fact, it was named after his father. It seems fitting that RGM would choose to name their collection after the founder of the state they call home.

Technical details

Movement
RGM/Jaquet 736
Swiss made manual wind
19 jewels
21,600 vph
Rhodium Plated
Côtes de Genève
Perlage

Case
316L stainless steel or 18k solid rose gold
Rectangular case
Sapphire crystal front and back
Dimensions: Diameter: 40mm x 28mm
Height: 7.9mm
Width between lugs: 20mm
Crown: Traditional stainless steel or 18k rose gold

Dial
Solid Argentium silver
Hand-cut guilloché
Arabic numerals
Moon phase
Power reserve
Blued steel hands

Strap
Black alligator

Price
Stainless steel – US$7,900
18k solid rose gold – US$12,900

US based mechanical watch specialist RGM has announced a new model in its watch lineup – RGM Model 350-TZBD “Time zone Big Date.” Dedicated to travelers, this automatic watch in stainless steel features a second time zone at the bottom of the dial and a big date centered for quick reference. The black dial is easy to read at a glance with Super-Luminova markers at each hour. Super-Luminova filled sword hands optimize readability. The watch is powered by an automatic Swiss movement with time-zone and big date module.

Technical details
Movement
RGM/ETA 2892-A2 automatic
Timezone and big date module
21 jewels
28,800 vph
Rhodium Plated
Côtes de Genève
Perlage

Case
316L stainless steel
Curved sapphire crystal front
Sapphire crystal back
Dimensions: Diameter: 38.7mm
Height: 12mm
Width between lugs: 20mm

Dial
Black with Super-Luminova markers
Arabic numerals
Centered big date
Second time zone
Rhodium hands with Super-Luminova
Sweep second hand
Crown: Traditional stainless steel

Strap
Brown leather with contrast stitching

Price
With Strap – US$3,700

With this new limited edition timepiece, American traditional watch manufacture RGM is beginning the celebration of its 25th anniversary by immortalizing Chess in enamel. This new timepiece takes inspiration from an iconic pocket watch owned by American Chess Master Paul Morphy and manufactured by American Watch Company.

In May 1859, Paul Morphy was presented with a pocket watch from the Testimonial Committee of the New York Chess Club as a tribute to his genius and worth. The watch, made by American Watch Company, was an elegant specimen of art and ingenuity. Unfortunately, it vanished sometime after 1921.

Not much is known about what happened to the pocket watch given to Morphy for his achievements; today only the original dial survives, on display at the NAWCC Watch and Clock museum in Columbia, PA, USA. It was here that RGM’s Roland Murphy first saw this unique enamel dial that he knew would one day be the inspiration in an RGM model. Instead of the usual Roman numerals on the dial, various chess pieces represent the hours, finely done in red and black.

The Black King stands at twelve, the Red King at six, the Queens at one and eleven, Bishops at two and ten, Knights at three and nine, Castles at four and eight, and Pawns at five and seven.

RGM chose to create their enamel dial with similar chess pieces indicating the hours. “Chess in Enamel” also marks the first time RGM has released a double-sunk Grand Feu enamel dial in one of its models.

Under this extraordinary dial is RGM’s original in-house movement: Caliber 801, which is also celebrating its 10th anniversary in 2017. Inspired by America’s great watch making history, the 801 highlights classic bridge shapes, reminiscent of Keystone Howard Watch Company’s “Edward Howard” model.

The unique winding click is inspired by the Illinois “Bunn Special.” Like the great Railroad watches from America’s past, the 801 features a high-grade finish that denotes the quality of its construction, including polished and blued steel components. The movement can also be customized.

The watch is housed in a polished stainless steel “Pennsylvania series” case. With its large lugs and ribbed sides, the watch is architecture on the wrist. Like many of the components of the Caliber 801, the case is also made in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, USA, and finished by hand.

Inspired by Pennsylvania’s popular nickname, blued steel Keystone hands mark the time. The Keystone winding crown completes the Pennsylvania theme.

Limited to 25 pieces in stainless steel.

Technical details
Model: Pennsylvania Series Caliber 801 Chess (PS-801-CH)

Movement
American-made RGM Caliber 801, Manual wind
19 jewels
18,000 vph
Rhodium or Gold Plated
Circular Damaskeening
Perlage
Anglage
7-tooth winding click
Optional wolf’s tooth winding wheels available
Power Reserve: 40-44 hours

Case
American-made polished stainless steel
Sapphire crystal front and case back
Dimensions: Diameter: 43.3mm
Height: 12.3mm
Width between lugs: 22mm
Crown: Stainless steel with Keystone insignia

Dial
Grand Feu (Great Fire) white enamel double-sunk
Black and red chess piece indices, fired in enamel
Subsidiary seconds dial
Blued steel Keystone hands

Strap
Black alligator

Price
USD$13,900 (steel), gold and platinum by request

Following on the success of their 801-COE Corps of Engineers Watch, US based watch maker RGM has introduced a smaller automatic version of the Corps of Engineers design. A perfect complement to its big brother, the 151-COE incorporates many of the same design features that make the 801-COE so desirable, like the real glass Grand Feu enamel dial and classic style blued steel hands. The 151-COE also boasts a beautiful RGM-made solid gold rotor, specifically designed for this model. Like all RGM 151 models, the case is made in the USA of either surgical quality 316L stainless steel or aircraft quality titanium.

Similar to the original from which RGM drew its inspiration, the dial on the Corps of Engineers 151 is a work of art. The General Railroad Timepiece Standards of 1893 required that the watches have bold Arabic numerals on a white dial with dark hands. RGM’s model features an easily readable deep white glass enamel dial with large luminous numbers. The hands are also classically made of luminous blued steel in a period style that perfectly match the dial and design of the complete watch. The luminous material on the dial and hands is non-radioactive SuperLumiNova.

Under this extraordinary dial and hands is a Swiss automatic movement modified by RGM, including the RGM-made solid 14 karat gold winding rotor.

Technical details
Model: 151-COE

Movement
RGM/Swiss automatic
23 jewels
28,800 vph
Rhodium Plated
Côtes de Genève
Perlage
RGM-made solid 14k gold winding rotor
Power reserve: 38-42 hours

Case
American-made 316L stainless steel, or CP2 titanium brushed
Diameter: 38.5mm
Height: 10.5mm
Width between lugs: 20mm
Curved sapphire crystal front
Flat sapphire crystal back
Water-resistant to 5ATM
Crown: Stainless steel

Dial
Grand Feu (“Great Fire”) white enamel
Super-LumiNova Arabic numerals
Blued-steel hands with Super-LumiNova

Strap
Brown Tuscan calf skin
RGM Buckle

Price
Stainless steel – US$6,950
Titanium – US$7,950

United States based watch brand RGM welcomes a new model to its automatic pilots’ watch line up – the 151-PR “Professional Pilot.”

This new model has a very technical but traditional pilot style dial with large Super-Luminova numbers for low light visibility. Two versions are available: one with a date window at 3 o’clock and a more period look without a date. The dial displays hours 1 thru 12 and the minutes 5 thru 60. The dial and second hand have red accents which blend nicely with the classic rhodium finished sword style hands.

A prominent element of all 151 models is the American-made stainless steel case, or option titanium case. Each case part is cut from a solid block of 316L surgical stainless steel or aircraft quality titanium. The 151-PR is a functional, technical and aesthetically pleasing pilot watch which fits very comfortably on the wrist. It is a welcome addition to the RGM 151 line up of technical Pilot watches.

Technical details
Model: 151-PR

Movement
RGM/ETA 2892-A2 automatic
21 jewels
28,800 vph
Rhodium Plated
Côtes de Genève
Perlage

Case
316L American-made stainless steel
Sapphire crystal front
Sapphire crystal back
Titanium also available
Crown: Traditional stainless steel
Screw-down crown available

Dimensions
Diameter: 38.5mm
Height: 9.9mm
Width between lugs: 20mm

Dial
Black with Super-Luminova
Arabic numerals
Optional date at 3 o’clock
Rhodium hands with Super-Luminova
Sweep second hand

Strap
Brown leather with contrast stitching

Price  
US$ 2,950

US based mechanical watch atelier RGM Watch Company has announced two new additions to their in-house 801 collection: 801-EE and PS-801-EE. These latest models combine two time-honored crafts: Grand Feu Enamel and Guilloché, or Engine-Turning.

Following on the heels of their first two enamel-dial models, RGM has created an enamel skeleton dial version. Grand Feu enamel requires the repeated baking of each layer of powdered glass at extremely high temperatures to ensure a uniquely crisp aesthetic while permanently setting the enamel. The Roman or Arabic numerals are baked into the surface, creating the vivid, unmistakable appearance distinctive of a real glass enamel dial.

The enamel skeleton dial reveals the hand cut Guilloché mainplate. Guilloché, or Engine-Turning, is a centuries old craft that today involves the use of antique hand-cranked machines to cut or engrave delicate geometric patterns. RGM has 6 vintage and antique machines that are used to decorate dials, or in this case, the movement mainplate.

The pattern seen on the mainplate of these models is called Moiré. This complex geometric pattern is achieved when each line is slightly offset from the previous cut line, thus creating a classically pleasing effect that can captivate the wearer of the timepiece.

Exposed under this unique skeleton dial and hand cut Guilloché mainplate is RGM’s original in house American movement: Caliber 801.

Inspired by America’s great watchmaking history, the 801 has classically shaped bridges, hand polished or blued steel components, and is entire hand finished and decorated. The movement can also be customized at the client’s request. The watch is housed in a polished 316L stainless steel or 18 karat solid gold case.

Model: 801-EE

Movement
RGM Caliber 801, Manual winding, American-made
19 jewels
18,000 vph
Rhodium or Gold Plated
Engine-turned
Circular Damaskeening
Perlage
Anglage
7-tooth winding click
Optional wolf’s tooth winding wheels and hacking second available
Power Reserve: 40-44 hours

Case
316L polished stainless steel
Sapphire crystal front
Flat sapphire crystal back
Water-resistant to 5ATM
Optional 18k gold case available
Diameter: 42mm
Height: 10mm
Width between lugs: 22mm
Crown: Stainless steel

Dial
Grand Feu (“Great Fire”) white enamel skeleton
Roman numerals
Blued-steel hands

Strap
Alligator

Price
US$10,400

Model: PS-801-EE

Movement
RGM Caliber 801, Manual winding, American-made
19 jewels
18,000 vph
Rhodium or Gold Plated
Engine-turned
Circular Damaskeening
Perlage
Anglage
7-tooth winding click
Optional wolf’s tooth winding wheels and hacking second available
Power Reserve: 40-44 hours

Case
316L polished stainless steel
Sapphire crystal front
Flat sapphire crystal back
Water-resistant to 5ATM
Optional 18k gold case available
Diameter: 43.3mm
Height: 10mm
Width between lugs: 22mm
Crown: Stainless steel

Dial
Grand Feu (“Great Fire”) white enamel skeleton
Roman numerals
Blued-steel hands

Strap
Alligator

Price
US$11,900

US based RGM Watch Company launches 801 Corps of Engineers Watch, a fine hand wound mechanical watch featuring enamel dial.

When the United States joined “The Great War” in April 1917, British and French governments made the arrival of American engineers their top priority. By the end of August 1917, nine newly organized engineer railway regiments, recruited largely from the nation’s private railway workers, had arrived in France. Since the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers had adopted the General Railroad Timepiece Standards of 1893, they brought with them about 1,000 American-made Hamilton railroad watches that met those standards. Each watch incorporated several technical features to ensure easy winding, legibility and accuracy to within 30 seconds a week. In an effort to reduce reliance on transatlantic shipping routes, the AEF Quartermaster Corps chose to procure more watches from within Europe, ordering from several Swiss companies.

The original Corps of Engineer watches had real glass enamel dials, widely used in the watch industry at the time, though rare in modern watches. Since the beauty and depth of a real glass enamel dial cannot be simulated, the only way to achieve this classic look was to produce it in the same way. So the dial was designed and a master of the Grand Feu (French for “Great Fire”) technique was commissioned to make the enamel dials. Creating an enamel watch dial is a high risk art. Enameling is a technique in which colored powdered glass is applied to a metal plate.

The surface is then heated to a temperature high enough to cause the powdered glass to melt and form a new surface. The Grand Feu technique ups the stakes. The repeated baking of successive layers of enamel at extremely high temperatures ensures a uniquely crisp aesthetic while permanently setting the enamel. Using such high heat to create these beautiful dials also poses a risk: each time it is re-fired, the danger of cracking, melting or burning increases. With great risk comes great reward – the appearance of a real glass enamel dial is unmistakable.

Similar to the original from which RGM drew its inspiration, the dial on the Corps of Engineers 801 is a work of art. The General Railroad Timepiece Standards of 1893 required that the watches have bold Arabic numerals on a white dial with dark hands. RGM’s model features an easily readable deep white glass enamel dial with large luminous numbers. The hands are also classically made of luminous blued steel in a period style to match the dial and design of the complete watch. The luminous material on the dial and hands is non-radioactive SuperLumiNova.

Under this extraordinary dial and hands is RGM’s original in-house American movement: Caliber 801. Inspired by America’s great watchmaking history, the 801 has classic bridge shapes, hand polished or blued steel components, and is entirely hand-finished and decorated. The movement can also be customized at the client’s request.

The watch is housed in a 316L stainless steel brushed pilot-style case. The flat winding crown compliments the vintage design.

Technical details
Movement
RGM Caliber 801, Manual winding, American-made
19 jewels
18,000 vph
Rhodium or Gold Plated
Circular Damaskeening
Perlage
Anglage
7-tooth winding click
Optional wolf’s tooth winding wheels available
Power Reserve:40-44 hours

Case
316L brushed stainless steel
Diameter: 42mm
Height: 10mm
Width between lugs: 22mm
Crown: Stainless steel
Curved sapphire crystal front
Flat sapphire crystal back
Water-resistant to 5ATM

Dial
Grand Feu (“Great Fire”) white enamel
Super-LumiNova Arabic numerals
Luminous blued-steel hands

Strap
Brown Tuscan calfskin

Price
Strap – US$9700
Bracelet – US$10450

RGM Watch Company announces a new automatic pilots’ watch – RGM Model 151A “Pro Aviator.”

A hallmark of RGM Watch Company is combining tradition with innovation. Many RGM clients opt to completely custom design their timepiece; others prefer less complex options that still make their watch distinctive. Justifying this spirit, the new model sports a technical dial with large Super-Luminova numbers, which calls to mind the early days of intercontinental aviation.

The dial displays hours 1 thru 12 and 13 thru 24, with emphasis on 3, 6, 9 and 12. A subtle calendar window at 4:30 completes the dial. The watch also features new luminous hands with a bold, yet classic, feel.

A prominent element of the Pro Aviator is the American-made stainless steel case. This model also incorporates a curved sapphire crystal and vintage-style calf leather waterproof strap. Together, these features make the RGM Pro Aviator functional, technical, and aesthetically pleasing.

The spectacular view of meticulously decorated movement can be admired through the Sapphire crystal display back.

Technical details
RGM Model 151A – Pro Aviator

Movement  
RGM/ETA 2892-A2 automatic
21 jewels
28,800 vph
Rhodium plated
Côtes de Genève
Perlage

Case
American-made satin brushed finish stainless steel
Titanium also available
Curved sapphire crystal front
Sapphire crystal display back
Diameter: 38.5mm
Height: 9.9mm
Width between lugs: 20mm
Crown: Traditional
Screw-down crown available

Dial
Black with Super-Luminova
Grey chapter ring
Arabic numeral indices
Date at 4:30
White hands with Super-Luminova
Sweep second hand

Strap
Brown leather with contrast stitching