A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Limited Edition

Prestigious German watch manufacture A. Lange & Söhne has expanded its 1815 collection by launching a new Rattrapante (split-seconds chronograph) in platinum.

The complex mechanism of the manual-winding 1815 RATTRAPANTE expands the functionality of a classic chronograph by allowing the measurement of a random number of lap times within a minute.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Limited Edition

The watch has two superposed chronograph hands, the centre chronograph hand and the centre rattrapante hand. Both hands start together when the pusher at 2 o’clock is actuated. The centre rattrapante hand can now be stopped independently of the centre chronograph hand and then resynchronised with it. This procedure, used for instance to measure lap times, can be repeated infinitely.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Limited Edition

The 1815 RATTRAPANTE comes in a platinum case measuring 41.2mm diameter. The bright argenté-coloured dial and the dark blued hands contrast well and assure perfect legibility. The traditional style elements of the watch include the peripheral railway-track minute scale and the prominent Arabic numerals.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Limited Edition

Instead of the ordinary positions at 3 and 9 o’clock, the 30-minute counter and the subsidiary seconds dial are at 12 and 6 o’clock, respectively, on the vertical centre axis. This symmetric arrangement gives the 1815 RATTRAPANTE a balanced and expressive personality. Additionally, the peripheral tachometer scale allows average speeds to be determined.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Limited Edition

The 1815 RATTRAPANTE is powered by the manufacture movement L101.2. The entire rattrapante chronograph mechanism is configured such that it is visible through the sapphire-crystal caseback. This allows the complex switching processes to be observed in detail. The control of elapsed and lap-time measurements is handled highly precisely in the classic manner with two column wheels. The mainspring barrel has a power reserve rating of 58 hours.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Limited Edition

Manufactured in-house, the freely oscillating Lange balance spring guarantees excellent rate accuracy at a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 hertz).

It is already the seventh calibre with this complication developed and crafted by Lange. With a special finissage, the movement was already integrated in the 1815 RATTRAPANTE HONEYGOLD “Homage to F. A. Lange” limited edition released in 2020.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Limited Edition

The calibre L101.2 manual-wound movement features bridges and cocks made of untreated German silver, a screw balance, screwed gold chatons that secure the jewels and a hand engraved balance cock. All upper sides of the moving parts of the rattrapante chronograph, such as levers, springs and jumpers, are decorated with straight graining while the peripheral chamfers are polished.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Limited Edition

Fitted on a black hand-stitched alligator leather strap, the 1815 RATTRAPANTE in platinum is limited to a global 200-piece edition.

Technical details

Model: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 RATTRAPANTE
Ref. 425.025

Movement
Lange manufacture calibre L101.2
Diameter: 32.6 millimeters
Height: 7.4 millimeters
Manually wound, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards, decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; plates made of untreated German silver; balance cock and chronograph bridge engraved by hand
Movement parts: 365
Jewels: 36
Screwed gold chatons: 4
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillation system: Shock-resistant screw balance; balance spring crafted in-house, frequency 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour; precision beat adjustment system with lateral setscrew and whiplash spring
Power reserve: 58 hours when fully wound

Functions
Time display with hours and minutes as well as subsidiary seconds with stop seconds; rattrapante chronograph with 30-minute counter, tachometer scale

Operating elements
Crown for winding the watch and setting the time; two chronograph pushers, one pusher to operate the rattrapante mechanism

Case
Material: 950 platinum
Diameter: 41.2mm
Height: 12.6mm
Crystal and caseback: Sapphire crystal

Dial
Solid silver, argenté

Hands
Hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds: blued steel
30-minute counter: blued steel
Centre chronograph hand: rhodiumed steel
Centre rattrapante hand: blued steel

Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather, black
Prong buckle in 950 platinum

Edition
Limited edition of 200 watches, edition engraving, boutique exclusivity

Czapek & Cie Antarctique Rattrapante Ice Blue Limited Edition

Swiss luxury watch brand Czapek & Cie has released a new edition of its Antarctique Rattrapante. The sportive, open-worked split-second chronograph now appears with a touch of blue that enhances the hands and rings on its dial.

Czapek & Cie Antarctique Rattrapante Ice Blue Limited Edition

The Antarctique Rattrapante Ice Blue watch features a brilliant open-worked architecture offering magnificent view of a very complex grande complication. By doing away with the traditional dial and removing material from the plates and bridges, the mechanism is revealed. This technique requires great care with the decorating, the beveling, the polishing, and the various types of finish.

Furthermore, as material is removed from structural parts, invisible tensions in the metal can lead to deformation of the now filigree bridges. These have to provide stable support for a running engine. It’s more challenging if that engine is driving a split-second mechanism activated by clutches, which requires stable anchoring.

Czapek & Cie Antarctique Rattrapante Ice Blue Limited Edition

The sapphire crystals in the front and on the exhibition case back reveal the intricate choreography of the dial-side mechanism.

Immediately recognizable are the two “Czapek” subdials. At 4 o’clock is a 30-minute totalizer, at 7 o’clock tick the small seconds.

In the center of the watch is the tripod bridge that holds down the patented satellite minute train and the split seconds-mechanism. Also clearly visible are the two column wheels needed for the chronograph and the split-seconds mechanisms respectively.

This latest iteration of the Antarctique is named “Ice Blue.” This model features traditionally blued hands that harmonise well with the weave of metallic greys inside the open-worked watch. A closer look reveals a fumé blue shimmer emanating from the minute track and the two totalizer tracks.

Czapek & Cie Antarctique Rattrapante Ice Blue Limited Edition

The effect is produced by the use of sapphire crystal rings that have been treated with metal oxides applied by an evaporation process. Adding to the visual dynamism of the dial is the red chrono hand, and the small red “60” at 12 o’clock.

Another salient visual aspect, though, is the dance of levers and cams on the dial of this split-second chronograph and the clamp, which instantly immobilizes one of the chrono wheels when the split-second pusher is activated. The other chronograph hand must then continue its time-counting undisturbed.

Czapek & Cie Antarctique Rattrapante Ice Blue Limited Edition

When the clamp is released, the immobilized hand will “catch up” (rattraper in French) to its companion. Each part must be manufactured to the highest specifications to ensure absolute precision.

Czapek & Cie Antarctique Rattrapante Ice Blue Limited Edition

Driving the Rattrapante Ice Blue is the Czapek’s high-performance proprietary caliber SHX6. It was created in collaboration with Chronode and is both a mechanical and aesthetic work of art. The split-second runs on energy tapped from the second wheel. It has a horizontal clutch rather than a vertical one to highlight the aesthetics of the transmission.

Czapek & Cie Antarctique Rattrapante Ice Blue Limited Edition

Furthermore, to ensure the streamlined look of the watch, the number of parts and their thickness was reduced to a minimum. Everything had to fit in the 42.5-millimeter case.

The Antarctique Rattrapante Ice Blue comes on Czapek’s own stainless steel case bracelet, whose links are shaped like the letter C.

It is a limited edition of 99 pieces.

Technical details

Model: Czapek & Cie Antarctique Rattrapante Ice Blue

Movement
Calibre SXH6: haute horlogerie automatic power-horse movement with a split-second monopusher chronograph module
Power reserve: 60 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz – 28’800 VpH
Variable inertia balance wheel
Two column wheels, chronograph horizontal clutch, patent-pending split-second clamp
49 jewels, 292 components
Recycled 5N rose gold rotor with Czapek logo
Diameter: 34mm

Finish
Finely shotblasted bridges with hand-polished chamfers
Linear satin-finished chronograph levers with hand-polished chamfers
Circular satin-finished wheels
Black-polished screws, studs and column wheels

Functions
Split-second monopusher chronograph, hours, minutes & seconds
Chronograph’s minutes at 4:30
Small seconds at 7:30
Split-second pusher at 10:30

Case
42.5mm stainless-steel case
Height (with glass-box): 15.3mm
Perceived height (bezel to case-back): 10.5mm
Sapphire crystal glass-box with anti-reflective treatment
Sapphire case back with anti-reflective treatment on the inner side
Water resistance: 120m

Dial
Open-worked split-second chronograph on the dial side (world première)
Sword hours and minutes hands with SuperLuminova treatment
Customisable split-second hand: full red, red tip, plain
Blue fumé sapphire glass minutes ring and counters made with PVD evaporation

Bracelet
Integrated stainless-steel bracelet with Czapek exclusive “Easy Release” system
Optional leather or rubber strap

Edition
Limited to 99 pieces

International Retail Price
50’000 CHF or 48’700 EUR (no tax) or 56’400 USD (US taxes included)

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph

Vacheron Constantin has created a unique Les Cabinotiers timepiece endowed with a minute repeater equipped with a centripetal flying strike regulator and a split-seconds monopusher chronograph.

Equipped with the new manual-winding in-house Calibre 2757, this unique Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph is in keeping with the grand tradition of Vacheron Constantin’s complicated watches.

The construction of this calibre, which consists of integrating an additional split-seconds chronograph mechanism into a basic minute repeater movement, represents a technical feat. The combination of these functions with a tourbillon has rarely been seen in the world of pocket watches, is almost non-existent in the world of wristwatches, and represents a first for Vacheron Constantin in a wristwatch.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph

This timepiece is also distinguished by a concern for the purity of the dial and the legibility of its chronograph functions. The tourbillon is visible only through the case back, while the off-centre display of the time and chronograph indications highlights the two central chronograph hands. The presence of a minute repeater is revealed by the slide-piece positioned on the left-hand side of the watch.

As early as 1819, Vacheron Constantin produced a pocket watch with independent deadbeat seconds and quarter repeater, at the time one of the first of its kind, which is now kept in the private collection of the Maison.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph

The deadbeat seconds mechanism, which allows the central second hand to advance in one-second jumps, played an important role in the measurement of short times. By making this mechanism independent by means of an additional gear train, watchmakers developed what is considered the ancestor of the chronograph towards the end of the 18th century. With such a device, it is now possible to stop the seconds hand without affecting the time indications.

The split-seconds chronograph was first introduced with a single-hand system in 1831, followed by the two-hand configuration in 1838. Vacheron Constantin quickly integrated these developments into the pocket chronographs of the time, as confirmed by an 1889 split-seconds timepiece dispatched to Buenos Aires for a horse racing enthusiast.

Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers have developed the 698-component manual-winding Calibre 2757. Such a large number of parts denote a rare degree of horological complexity. Even in the world of grand complications, calibres are often of simpler design and made with far fewer components.

Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2757 Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph

Given this intensely technical nature, Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers have nonetheless risen to the challenge of elegance by successfully arranging the complications of this timepiece within a remarkably slender movement measuring barely 10.4 mm thick and 33.3 mm in diameter.

Calibre 2757, operating at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz) and endowed with an approximately 60-hour power reserve, enables short time measurement with 1/5th of a second precision appearing on the graduated minute-track. The unusual configuration of the dark grey dial has been designed to ensure optimum visibility of the split-seconds chronograph.

The hours and minutes are displayed on an offset subdial, leaving room for the 30-minute chronograph counter prominently placed at 2 o’clock. The layout is complemented by small seconds at 6 o’clock, indicating that the watch is in operation, thereby leaving plenty of space for the two central chronograph hands.

The very construction of the movement, particularly in terms of its chronographic functions, is based on the imperative of performance. In the watchmaking world, where many great inventions belong to the past, innovation often consists in optimising the operation of a calibre.

Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2757 Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph

This approach begins with the development of the movement and continues with the use of new materials. This same approach is reflected in Calibre 2757, whose additional split-seconds chronograph plate has been specially designed to ensure efficiency thanks to the in-depth arrangement of its components.

This optimisation of volumes, despite the thinness of the calibre, is also accompanied by new materials. Some of the wheels in the going train have been made of titanium or electroformed in nickel- phosphorus with a toothing profile specific to Vacheron Constantin, the goal being to ensure better gear penetration so as to avoid any jerking of the seconds hand. Silicon, an ultra-light material that requires no lubrication, is also used for one of the split-seconds levers and its insulator.

These savings in component weight and friction thus reduce the loss of energy amplitude from the barrel, thereby maintaining a comfortable power reserve of up to 50 hours with the chronograph activated.

For short-time measurements, a function demanding extreme regularity in terms of precision, Vacheron Constantin watchmakers have opted for a construction with two column wheels: the first devoted to the chronograph and the other to the split-seconds mechanism. This chronograph is thus controlled by a single pusher at 2 o’clock for the basic functions (start/stop/reset) and by the one at 4 o’clock for the split-seconds (stop/reset).

Pressing the latter stops the seconds hand on an intermediate time while the first hand continues running. Pressing it again enables the split-seconds hand to join the first seconds hand in counting off time. Two scales further enhance the technical nature of this timepiece.

The tachymeter scale, screen-printed in white on a 1,000-metre base, enables the average speed in km/h to be calculated over the first minute of timekeeping; the telemeter scale in red is used to calculate distances of up to 20 km according to the speed of sound (340 metres/second).

The chronograph functions are complemented by a minute repeater, activated by the lever on the left-hand side of the case. An essential complication for musical watches, the minute repeater has been part of Vacheron Constantin’s watchmaking vocabulary for more than two centuries, sounding the hours, quarters and minutes on demand.

The first known mention of a Vacheron Constantin chiming watch in the production records dates back to 1806, with a gold quarter-repeater pocket watch. Since that date, chiming and repeater watches have been part of the Maison’s heritage that has continued to grow over the decades.

Calibre 2757 is the direct heir to this tradition, benefiting from the technical developments perfected within the Manufacture. These include an ingenious centripetal flying strike regulator.

In a minute repeater watch, this mechanism regulates the duration of the musical sequence so that the notes can be heard distinctly and harmoniously. This system is distinguished by its two weights whose very special shape has been optimised to act as a brake by means of centripetal force acting on the governor’s rotating shaft, thereby evening out the energy released by the barrel and regulated by the tourbillon. This original device is also perfectly silent. Visible exclusively through the caseback, the tourbillon is distinguished by a carriage whose shape is inspired by the Maison’s Maltese cross emblem. Held by a delicately hand-chamfered bridge, this regulator carriage performs one complete rotation per minute.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph

Presented in a 45 mm-diameter 750/1000 5N pink gold case with an exhibition back and on an alligator leather strap with gold folding clasp, this watch represents a technical feat as well as epitomising extraordinary mastery in the field of watchmaking finishing.

A signature feature of Vacheron Constantin watches is that each component is finely decorated with hand-made finishes before being assembled, even when destined to remain hidden. These surfaces that is alternately bevelled, polished, satin-finished, frosted, circular-grained or engraved and beadblasted create a play of light that brings out all the magic of Vacheron Constantin’s calibres and contributes to the brand’s intrinsic anatomy of beauty.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph

The assembly, setting into operation and casing-up of this Les Cabinotiers Minute repeater split-seconds monopusher chronograph movement thus represents only one third of the time devoted to the watch, as opposed to two thirds devoted to the calibre finishing.

The contrast between the bridges and maintaining plate with Vacheron Constantin’s signature black coating and the “metallic” moving parts already acts as a revelation of this kinetic art, which takes shape thanks to the meticulous attention lavished on details.

On the dial side, the skeletonised bridges, with their hand-chamfered and straight-grained flanks feature a circular satin finish. The wheels, with their chamfered arms, are burnished and polished, a complex operation that requires special tools for the titanium wheels.

On the caseback side of the movement, the watchmaker in charge of the timepiece – who carries out all the assembly and finishing operations right the way through to timing and casing-up in the manner of 18th century cabinotiers – has created an original decoration, in keeping with this remarkable timepiece.

The blackened bridges featured a hollowed-out surface that has been sandblasted to a very fine grain by hand, topped by a mirror-polished sink. This magnificent execution, which plays on the reflections of light between the matt and the shiny, brings out the “musical” components of the movement. The strike governor is notably engraved with the initials J.M.C. in tribute to Jean-Marc Vacheron and features a bar whose delicate rounding off involves 12 hours of meticulous hand craftsmanship. The Tourbillon Bridge is engraved with Vacheron Constantin’s Maltese cross emblem.

The single-piece watch Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph features a concern for impeccable finishing and meticulous decoration of all watch components, even those that remain invisible, vividly illustrating Vacheron Constantin’s theme for 2022:”The Anatomy of Beauty®”.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph
Reference: 9750C/000R-002C

Movement
Calibre 2757
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
33.30 mm diameter, 10.40 mm thick
Approximately 60 hours of power reserve
2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
698 components
59 jewels
Poinçon de Genève

Functions
Off-centred/Offset hours and minutes
Chronograph
Split-seconds chronograph
Small seconds
30-minute counter
Minute repeater
Tourbillon

Case
18K 5N pink gold
45 mm diameter, 16.4 mm thick

Dial
Dark grey dial
Hours, minutes and seconds hands: 18K 5N pink gold, polished
Chronograph and split-seconds chronograph hands: gold-toned aluminium, matt

Strap
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Buckle 18K 5N pink gold folding clasp, Half Maltese cross-shaped

Box
Les Cabinotiers box

Edition
Single-piece edition “Les Cabinotiers”, “Pièce unique”, “AC” hallmark engraved on caseback

ALCADUS VELOS

ALCADUS presents VELOS, a motor-sports inspired quartz chronograph watch equipped with split-second (rattrapante) and flyback functions.

ALCADUS VELOS Gulf Racing: Baby blue brushed dial, orange chronograph hands and orange accent.
ALCADUS VELOS Gulf Racing: Baby blue brushed dial, orange chronograph hands and orange accent.

Driven by the Swiss-made ETA 251.294 FK quartz movement, this stainless steel wristwatch is available in variants like Gulf Racing, British Racing Green, Silver Arrow, and Marlboro/Panda – inspired by the iconic team liveries associated with motor racing.

ALCADUS VELOS British Racing Green: Emerald green brushed dial, yellow chronograph hands and yellow accent.
ALCADUS VELOS British Racing Green: Emerald green brushed dial, yellow chronograph hands and yellow accent.

This 39mm chronograph features box-shaped sapphire crystal glass, screw-down crown and Italian leather strap. It has a water resistance of 100 meters.

ALCADUS VELOS Silver Arrow: Brushed silver dial, black chronograph hands and red accent.
ALCADUS VELOS Silver Arrow: Brushed silver dial, black chronograph hands and red accent.

The ALCADUS VELOS chronograph watch is now available for pre-order via a crowd-funding campaign on Kickstarter. The early bird price is approximately US$ 360. Estimated delivery in June 2022.

ALCADUS VELOS Marlboro/Panda: White base dial, red central chronograph hand, white chronograph hands with a black sub-dial and black tachymeter scale.

For more details, please visit ALCADUS VELOS Kickstarter campaign.

Technical details

Case
316L Stainless Steel with brushed finish
Box sapphire crystal with clear AR coating
Dimensions: 39 x 45.5mm
Thickness: 12.2mm
Lug width: 20mm
Crown: Screw-down, engraved ALCADUS logo with Luminescent applied
Water resistance: 100 meters / 10 ATM / 330 ft

Dial
Gulf Racing, British Racing Green, Silver Arrow, Marlboro/Panda
Hands: Baton style hour and minutes hand, custom seconds hand with ALCADUS Logo. All covered in a photo-luminescent coating.
Swiss Super-LumiNova® on dial, hands and crown

Movement
Swiss ETA 251.294 FK

Strap
Premium Italian leather strap

Warranty
2 years

Kickstarter page: https://alcadus-velos-racing-inspired.kckb.st/11557e7a

Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011: Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar with Rose Gold Case and Slate Gray Dial

Patek Philippe has expanded the Grand Complications family by launching a new version of Reference 5204 Split-Seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar watch.

This multi-complication mechanical timepiece has been available since 2016 in two rose gold versions, one with a silvered opaline dial and chocolate brown alligator strap (reference 5204R-001), the other with an opaline ebony black dial and rose gold Goutte (droplet) bracelet – Reference 5204/1R.

Patek Philippe now presents a new variation with a rose gold case and a matching slate gray dial and strap.

Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011: Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar with Rose Gold Case and Slate Gray Dial
Image Credit: PATEK PHILIPPE SA

The entirely hand-polished and sophisticatedly styled rose gold case is equipped with a concave bezel and two-tier lugs.

Despite the complexity of the movement, the indications on the “sunburst” dial stand out for their perfect legibility. The day and month are displayed in two in-line apertures at 12 o’clock. The date hand at 6 o’clock incorporates the moon-phase aperture. Small seconds and the instantaneous 30-minute counter appear on two subdials at 9 and 3 o’clock.

Two small round apertures display the leap-year cycle between 4 and 5 o’clock and the day/night indication between 7 and 8 o’clock – functions enabling accurate adjustment of the calendar. Whether by day or night, reading the time is facilitated by the applied hour-markers and Dauphine-type hands in rose gold, all with luminescent coating.

Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011: Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar with Rose Gold Case and Slate Gray Dial
Image Credit: PATEK PHILIPPE SA

The transparent sapphire caseback offers the view the CHR 29-535 PS Q Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar Caliber. First introduced in 2012 on Reference 5204P-001, this meticulously finished manual-winding movement incorporates seven patented innovations, including six for the chronograph and one for the split-seconds mechanism.

The new Reference 5204R-011 is worn on a shiny slate gray calf leather strap with an embossed alligator pattern and a rose gold fold-over clasp. Available with interchangeable sapphire crystal and solid case-backs, it is joining the two existing versions in rose gold.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011: Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar with Rose Gold Case and Slate Gray Dial

Case
18K rose gold case
Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 14.3 mm
Interchangeable solid and sapphire crystal case backs
Water-resistant to 30m

Movement
Manually wound mechanical movement. Caliber CHR 29‑535 PS Q
Diameter: 32 mm
Height: 8.7 mm
Number of parts: 496
Bridges: 12
Jewels: 34
Power reserve with the chronograph disengaged: min. 55 hours – max. 65 hours
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Breguet
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Functions
Split-Seconds chronograph
Instantaneous 30-minute counter
Perpetual calendar
Day, month, leap year and day/night indication displayed in apertures
Date indicated by hand
Moon phases
Small seconds

Dial
Slate gray sunburst, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating
18K gold dial plate

Strap
Calfskin, embossed alligator pattern, hand-stitched, shiny gray
Fold-over clasp

Czapek & Cie Antarctique Rattrapante Limited Edition

Swiss luxury watch brand Czapek & Cie presents Antarctique Rattrapante, the latest model in its Antarctique family, the modern and sportive line introduced in 2020.

The Czapek & Cie Antarctique Rattrapante is the first split-second chronograph whose fascinating mechanism is visible from the dial side.

Czapek & Cie Antarctique Rattrapante Limited Edition

A split-second chronograph is one of the most complex horological mechanisms. The Calibre SHX6, Czapek’s proprietary movement created in collaboration with Chronode, is a work of art from the mechanical and aesthetic standpoint. For one, the number and thickness of the main components had to be reduced to make sure the timepiece would keep its streamlined look and feel and fit well into the 42.5-millimeter case.

Czapek & Cie Antarctique Rattrapante Limited Edition

The focus of the movement is the tripod bridge in the centre that holds down a patented satellite minute train and the patent-pending split-second mechanism just below.

The two column wheels, one at the top (for the chronograph) and the bottom (for the split-second mechanism) divide the movement into two halves. The minute totaliser at four o’clock and the small seconds at seven o’clock serve as visual anchors to this high flying, modern and dynamic timepiece, and maintain the link to the company’s spiritus rector, the great nineteenth-century watchmaker, François Czapek, who was using vertical symmetry as an aesthetic guide.

Czapek & Cie Antarctique Rattrapante Limited Edition

The Antarctique Rattrapante comes with Czapek’s bespoke stainless-steel bracelet, whose links are shaped as a stylized letter C. It will be available at the brand’s boutique in Geneva, official retailers and online at Czapek.com as a subscription in a limited edition of 77 pieces.

Technical details

Model: Antarctique Rattrapante

Case
42.5mm stainless-steel case
Height (with glass-box): 15.3mm
Perceived height (bezel to case-back): 10.5mm
Sapphire crystal glass-box with anti-reflective treatment
Sapphire case back with anti-reflective treatment on the inner side
Water resistance: 120m

Functions
Split-second monopusher chronograph, hours, minutes & seconds
Chronograph’s minutes at 4:30
Small seconds at 7:30
Split-second pusher at 10:30

Movement
Calibre SXH6: haute horlogerie automatic power-horse movement with a split-second monopusher chronograph module
Power reserve: 60 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz – 28’800 VpH
Variable inertia balance wheel
Two column wheels, chronograph horizontal clutch, patent-pending split-second clamp
49 jewels, 292 components
Recycled 5N rose gold rotor with Czapek logo
Diameter: 34mm

Finish
Finely shot-blasted bridges with hand-polished chamfers
Linear satin-finished chronograph levers with hand-polished chamfers
Circular satin-finished wheels
Black-polished screws, studs and column wheels

Dial
Open-worked split-second chronograph on the dial side (world première)
Sword hours and minutes hands with SuperLuminova treatment
Split-second hand with red tip
Diamond-chamfered rhodium-plated minutes ring and counters

Bracelet
Integrated stainless steel bracelet with Czapek exclusive “Easy Release” system
Optional leather or rubber strap

Edition
Limited to 77 pieces

Retail price
46’000 CHF or 43’400 EUR (no tax) or 51’900 USD (US taxes included)

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF

Celebrating its 25th anniversary, Parmigiani Fleurier presents Tonda PF, the latest and most forward-looking collection from the Swiss Maison. This new series belong to the brand’s popular Tonda collection. Fitted with new integrated bracelets, Tonda PF watches are built around the most iconic in-house movements.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF  case design

The Tonda PF series inducts a new brand signature. The PF logo appears at 12 o’clock, nestled in a vertical, oval, double-edged appliqué with extensive finishings, a harbinger of the level of care put into the collection.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF logo

The indices of each timepiece are set across two levels of the dial, while the Grain d’Orge guilloché dial pattern is the finest imaginable.

The inaugural Tonda PF collection is comprised of four models: Micro-Rotor, Chronograph, Annual Calendar with Retrograde Date and the limited edition Split Seconds Chronograph.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor with polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold with hand-knurled bezel
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor with polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold with hand-knurled bezel

The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is a slim, pared-down, high-end two-hander with platinum micro-rotor. The Tonda PF Chronograph features an almost flush dial and an integrated high frequency chronograph movement.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph with polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel with platinum 950 hand-knurled bezel
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph with polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel with platinum 950 hand-knurled bezel

The Tonda PF Annual Calendar with retrograde date demonstrates how discretely and astutely advanced indications can be integrated into a pared-down design.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Annual Calendar - with polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel case and platinum hand-knurled bezel
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Annual Calendar – with polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel case and platinum hand-knurled bezel

All three Tonda PF models mentioned above are available in steel with platinum hand-knurled bezel or entirely crafted in 18ct rose gold.

At the top of the range is a limited series of the Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph. To mark the 25th Anniversary of the manufacture, this timepiece is limited to 25 pieces. It features a dial, case and bracelet made of platinum 950, whose high frequency, open-worked, split seconds chronograph movement is built out of solid gold.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph

Tonda PF represents a mature, sartorial approach to watchmaking, where cloth is replaced by metal and weaving by dial pattern. The cutting and fitting of the shoulders and waistline take on the form of case and bracelet. These are entirely focused on silhouette, fluidity, proportions and taste.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF

Its specific hands are made of solid gold. Slim and long, they’re almost entirely openworked and of completely new design. The bezel, a direct heritage from the Tonda collection, features a sleek, polished part and another that’s been knurled by hand, and is crafted out of solid platinum 950 for the steel models.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF

Rather than using the same steel as the rest of the case and bracelet, Parmigiani Fleurier has elected to work with this highly precious metal. Not for the sake of exclusivity, but because it provides a better, shinier play with light and a more artisanal feeling once polished by hand.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF

The case band on all four references of the Tonda PF line is not straight, but slightly bassiné, i.e. wider near the bezel and narrower on the wrist. This provides the overall design with a sense of increased slimness. The surface is horizontal-satin-finished all around as is the upper surface of the lugs.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor

The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor measures 40 mm in diameter and owes its pure aesthetic to the uncluttered warm grey, matte guilloché dial.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor with polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold with hand-knurled bezel

It inaugurates a new version of Parmigiani Fleurier’s fundamental movement, the PF703. This ultra-slim, 3 mm thick engine is self-winding thanks to a full platinum micro-rotor. This diminutive oscillating weight allows the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor to measure a mere 7.8 mm on the wrist, ensuring comfort and elegance.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor with polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold with hand-knurled bezel

The timepiece displays hours, minutes and date. The date disc is the exact same color as the minute track’s, creating a consistent colorway. 

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor with polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel with platinum 950 hand-knurled bezel

Technical details

Movement
Caliber PF703
Automatic winding manufacture movement with platinum 950 micro-rotor
Power reserve: 48 hours
Frequency: 21,600 Vph (3 Hz)
Jewels: 29
No. of components: 176
Diameter: 30 mm
Thickness: 3 mm
Decoration: Côtes de Genève, Perlage
Oscillating weight: platinum 950 micro-rotor – Grain d’Orge guilloché

Functions
Hours, minutes, date

Model: Tonda PF Micro-Rotor, Ref: PFC914-2020001-200182

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor with polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold with hand-knurled bezel

Case
Polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold with hand-knurled bezel
Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 7.8 mm
Crown: Ø 4.3 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Caseback: sapphire glass
Engraving on caseback: serial number& “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”
Water resistance: 100 m

Dial
Color: grey
Finishing: Grain d’Orge guilloché
Indices: hand-applied 18ct rose gold appliqués

Hands
18ct rose gold skeletonized delta-shaped

Bracelet
Polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold bracelet
Closure: Eco-friendly 18ct rose gold folding clasp

Recommended retail price
49,000 CHF

Model: Tonda PF Micro-Rotor, Ref: PFC914-1020001-100182

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor with polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel with platinum 950 hand-knurled bezel

Case
Polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel with platinum 950 hand-knurled bezel
Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 7.8 mm
Crown: Ø 4.3 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Caseback: sapphire glass
Engraving on caseback: serial number& “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”
Water resistance: 100 m

Dial
Color: grey
Finishing: Grain d’Orge guilloché
Indices: hand-applied rhodium-plated appliqués

Hands
18ct gold rhodium-plated skeletonized delta-shaped

Bracelet
Polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel bracelet
Closure: medical stainless steel folding clasp

Recommended retail price
21,000 CHF

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph

The 42 mm Tonda PF Chronograph houses the 5 Hz Caliber PF070, an integrated, high frequency, column wheel movement with small seconds and two registers. Integrating three counters on the Tonda PF Chronograph’s thinly guilloché dial demands finesse.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph with polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel with platinum 950 hand-knurled bezel

Parmigiani Fleurier maintains an almost flush surface by using thinly sandblasted minute track and counter outlines on the discrete blue dial.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph with polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel with platinum 950 hand-knurled bezel

The pushers have been fused with the profile of the Tonda PF Chronograph’s lugs. This model, along with the Tonda PF Annual Calendar, premieres a new oscillating weight in 22ct rose gold, widely open-worked with a central PF logo medallion.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph with polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold with hand-knurled bezel

Technical details

Movement
Caliber PF070
COSC-Certified Automatic Manufacture Movement with Integrated Chronograph
Power reserve: 65 hours
Frequency: 36,000Vph (5 Hz)
Jewels: 42
No. of components: 315
Diameter: 30.6 mm
Thickness: 6.95 mm
Decoration: satin-finished open worked bridges, hand-beveled edges
Oscillating weight: skeletonized, 22ct rose gold¸ polished and sand-blasted

Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date and chronograph

Model: Tonda PF Chronograph, Ref: PFC915-2020001-200182

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph with polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold with hand-knurled bezel

Case
Polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold with hand-knurled bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 12.4 mm
Crown: Ø 6 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Caseback: sapphire glass
Engraving on caseback: serial number& “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”&“36’000 Alt/h”
Water resistance: 100 m

Dial
Color: blue
Finishing: Grain d’Orge guilloché
Indices: hand-applied 18ct rose gold appliqués

Hands
Hours and minutes: 18ct rose gold skeletonized delta-shaped
Chronograph and small seconds: steel rose gold-plated

Bracelet
Polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold bracelet
Closure: eco-friendly 18ct rose gold folding clasp

Recommended retail price
63,000 CHF

Model: Tonda PF Chronograph, Ref: PFC915-1020001-100182

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph with polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel with platinum 950 hand-knurled bezel

Case
Polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel with platinum 950 hand-knurled bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 12.4 mm
Crown: Ø 6 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Caseback: sapphire glass
Engraving on caseback: serial number& “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”&“36’000 Alt/h”
Water resistance: 100 m

Dial
Color: blue
Finishing: Grain d’Orge guilloché
Indices: hand-applied rhodium-plated appliqués

Hands
Hours and minutes: 18ct gold rhodium-plated skeletonized delta-shaped
Chronograph and small seconds: steel rhodium-plated

Bracelet
Polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel bracelet
Closure: Medical stainless steel folding clasp

Recommended retail price
28,000 CHF

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Annual Calendar

The 42 mm Tonda PF Annual Calendar transcends the aesthetics that had thus far been associated with Parmigiani Fleurier’s annual calendar movement.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Annual Calendar - with polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel case and platinum hand-knurled bezel

Caliber PF339 presents a retrograde date, day, month and 122-year moonphase as visible in both hemispheres. As they come on top of the three usual time-telling hands, the very nature of the general design of the collection was at stake.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Annual Calendar - with polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel case and platinum hand-knurled bezel

By pushing the date outwards onto the minute track and using discretely outlined counters on the warm grey guilloché dial, Parmigiani Fleurier has managed to balance the pared-down equilibrium of the collection’s design language and an elaborate layout.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Annual Calendar - with polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold with hand-knurled bezel

Technical details

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, retrograde annual calendar and precision moon phase

Movement
Caliber PF339
Automatic Winding Manufacture Movement with Retrograde Annual Calendar and Precision Moon Phase
Power reserve: 50 hours
Frequency: 28,800 Vph (4 Hz)
Jewels: 32
No. of components: 359
Diameter: 27.1 mm
Thickness: 5.5 mm
Decoration: Côtes de Genève, beveled bridges, Perlage
Oscillating weight: skeletonized, 22ct rose gold¸ polished and sand-blasted

Model: Tonda PF Annual Calendar, Ref: PFC907-2020001-200182

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Annual Calendar - with polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold with hand-knurled bezel

Case
Polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold with hand-knurled bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 11.1 mm
Crown: Ø 6 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Caseback: sapphire glass
Engraving on caseback: serial number& “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”
Water resistance: 100 m

Dial
Color: grey
Finishing: Grain d’Orge guilloché
Indices: hand-applied 18ct rose gold appliqués

Hands
Hours and minutes: 18ct rose gold skeletonized delta-shaped
Calendar and seconds: steel rose gold-plated

Bracelet
Polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold bracelet
Closure: Eco-friendly 18ct rose gold folding clasp

Recommended retail price
70,000 CHF

Model: Tonda PF Annual Calendar, Ref: PFC907-1020001-100182

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Annual Calendar - with polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel case and platinum hand-knurled bezel

Case
Polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel with platinum 950 hand-knurled bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 11.1 mm
Crown: Ø 6 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Case back: sapphire glass
Engraving on case back: serial number & “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”
Water resistance: 100 m

Dial
Color: grey
Finishing: Grain d’Orge guilloché
Indices: hand-applied rhodium-plated appliqués

Hands
Hours and minutes: 18ct gold rhodium-plated skeletonized delta-shaped
Calendar and seconds: steel rhodium-plated

Bracelet
Polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel bracelet
Closure: medical stainless steel folding clasp

Recommended retail price
35,000 CHF

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph

Limited to just 25 units as an homage to the maison’s 25th Anniversary, the Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph gives prominence to the best craftsmanship available at Parmigiani Fleurier. The case and bracelet of this timepiece are crafted in platinum.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph

This timepiece features an extremely rare, solid platinum dial to match the deep luster and specific sheen of the case and bracelet, while its sandblasted finish maintains the matte, finely textured theme of the collection.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph

Caliber PF361 is a new version of the manufacture’s most high-end caliber, the GPHG-awarded ChronOr. Three characteristics make this movement a truly exceptional creation.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph

One, its mainplate and bridges are made of solid 18ct rose gold. Two, they’re extensively open worked, satin-finished and beveled, even though the dial is a closed one. Three, it is an integrated, high frequency split seconds chronograph. It allows optimal timekeeping of two events starting at the same time, down to the 10th of a second.

Technical details

Model: Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph, 25-Piece Limited Edition
Ref: PFH916-2010001-200182

Movement
Caliber PF361
Manual Winding Manufacture Movement in 18ct Rose Gold with Integrated Split Seconds Chronograph
Power reserve: 65 hours
Frequency: 36,000 Vph (5 Hz)
Jewels: 35
No. of components: 309
Diameter: 30.6 mm
Thickness: 8.45 mm
Decoration: satin-finished open worked bridges, hand-beveled edges

Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, split-seconds chronograph

Case
Polished and satin-finished platinum 950withhand-knurled bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 15 mm
Crown: Ø 7.2 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Caseback: sapphire glass
Engraving on caseback: serial number–“Edition limitée X/25”– “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”–“36’000 Alt/h”
Water resistance: 100 m

Dial
Material: Platinum 950
Finishing: Sand-blasted
Indices: Hand-applied rhodium-plated appliqués

Hands
Hours and minutes: 18ct gold rhodium-plated skeletonized delta-shaped
Chronograph and small seconds: steel, rhodium or rose gold-plated

Bracelet
Polished and satin-finished platinum950 bracelet
Closure: 18ct white gold folding clasp

Recommended retail price
155,000 CHF

A. Lange & Söhne TRIPLE SPLIT New Model with Pink Gold Case and Blue Dial

Introduced in 2018, the A. Lange & Söhne TRIPLE SPLIT is the world’s only mechanical split-seconds chronograph that allows the measurement of intermediate and reference times for durations of up to twelve hours.

The former edition in white gold with a grey dial is now followed by a second version – also in a limited edition of 100 timepieces – in pink gold with a blue dial and rhodié-coloured subsidiary dials. Despite the wealth of displayed information, an ingenious material and colour concept make it easy to clearly assign each of the ten hands to a specific function.

A. Lange & Söhne TRIPLE SPLIT New Model with Pink Gold Case and Blue Dial

The TRIPLE SPLIT is a logical evolution of the DOUBLE SPLIT introduced by A. Lange & Söhne in 2004. With a precisely jumping rattrapante minute counter, it represents an impressive milestone in the development of modern rattrapante mechanisms conceived by the Saxon watchmakers.

A. Lange & Söhne TRIPLE SPLIT New Model with Pink Gold Case and Blue Dial

Stopping times of up to twelve hours is possible with the TRIPLE SPLIT. The extension of the rattrapante function to the hour counter offers a multitude of further possibilities. For instance, the TRIPLE SPLIT can compare the times of two opponents in a Formula One race, a Tour de France stage, or a marathon. It is also possible to stop the times of consecutively starting events or add together the times of multiple-hour events such as the duration of the individual Ironman disciplines. Any number of lap times can be stopped during additive time measurements.

A. Lange & Söhne TRIPLE SPLIT New Model with Pink Gold Case and Blue Dial

In the starting position, the three rhodiumed rattrapante hands are superposed on the respective chronograph hands. The time measurement is started by pressing the chronograph pusher at 2 o’clock. The pairs of hands now run synchronously until they are separated by pressing the rattrapante pusher at 10 o’clock to perform a lap-time measurement.

The three rhodiumed hands will then stop to display the lap time. All the while, the previously concealed chronograph hands in gold-plated steel or pink gold continue the time measurement. As soon as the rattrapante pusher is pressed again, the rattrapante hands catch up with the chronograph hands and from then on run together with them again.

A. Lange & Söhne TRIPLE SPLIT New Model with Pink Gold Case and Blue Dial

The movement is also endowed with a flyback function that involves all three hand pairs as well. Thus, the chronograph can be reset to zero by pressing the chronograph pusher at 4 o’clock during an ongoing time measurement. Releasing the pusher instantly starts a new time measurement.

The Lange calibre L132.1 is a movement that stands out with its three-dimensionality, complexity, and architecturally pleasing design. It highlights the finissage that is typical of the individual Lange components. Overall, 567 tiny parts are perfectly adjusted for flawless interaction.

A. Lange & Söhne TRIPLE SPLIT New Model with Pink Gold Case and Blue Dial caseback view

The creation of a mechanism which makes it possible to collectively or separately control three hand pairs represented a formidable technical challenge for Lange’s developers. Even a simple rattrapante mechanism has two hands attached to arbors that run one inside the other. In the calibre L132.1, this pairing exists three times. During the assembly of the movement, the multiple function axes call for the utmost precision and virtuosity.

A. Lange & Söhne TRIPLE SPLIT New Model with Pink Gold Case and Blue Dial caeback

A glance through the sapphire-crystal caseback reveals the chronograph movement that is finished to the strictest Lange standards and adjusted to assure the perfect interaction of column wheels, clutches, rockers, levers, springs, and jumpers. Five gold chatons, traditionally secured with screws on bridges decorated with Glashütte ribbing as well as the hand-engraved balance cock round off the stylish prominence of the movement.

Angelus U30 Black Titanium

Independent Swiss luxury watch maker Angelus has released a Black Titanium version of its U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante watch.

Ultra-light and ultra-sporty, the Angelus U30 watch unites a variety of prestigious complications: a tourbillon, flyback and split-second chronograph. The 47mm black DLC titanium case with open-worked edges houses one of the most complex automatic skeletonized movements in the world.

Angelus U30 Black Titanium

This skeletonised, automatic watch with tourbillon, flyback and split-second chronograph with power reserve indicator is quite simply unique. The case, 47mm in diameter and 15mm thick, is made of black DLC titanium.

The lugs and case middle are marked in the centre with a recess that extends the skeletonising of the movement. The open-worked movement has 350 components in total, is treated with black DLC and accentuated in grey.

Angelus U30 Black Titanium

The split-second function allows the central chronograph second hand to be split in two, allowing two events starting together to be timed. At any moment, the same pusher can bring the two hands back together to the same point. A flyback also allows you to reset and restart timing with a single press, without having to stop and reset the hands.

This exceptional feature does not compromise the lines of the U30: the split-second pusher is integrated into the crown at three o’clock, barely protruding from the case. Similarly, the chronograph’s start and reset pushers are very discreet, integrated into the overall line of the U30’s black titanium case middle. The pushers have a short trajectory, requiring up-front design work and adjustment to a degree rarely achieved in watchmaking.

Angelus U30 Black Titanium

It is hard to imagine a complication as sophisticated as the split-second function. The movements capable of achieving this complication can be counted on the fingers of two hands–and for the skeletonised version, far fewer.

Angelus has built its modern identity on open-worked pieces integrated into spacious structures that bring the surface area down to the absolute minimum. Here, the A-150 calibre has depth. The hand fitting, bridges, cog and column wheels, patina and rotor create a rich texture of levels for the eye to get lost in.

Angelus U30 Black Titanium

Chronograph calibres are rarely integrated. They are often made up of a basic calibre and an additional functional module. But Angelus does not subscribe to this approach, instead developing its calibres as a unified system.

Split-second chronographs are often manual. The U30 prefers a sportier, active, technical approach for this extremely rare complication, opting instead for self-winding by a large rotor. Split-second chronographs are hardly ever matched with a flyback. Such a combination is so complex that the watchmaking community is often unaware that it is even possible. The A-150 calibre is capable of such a feat.

Angelus U30 Black Titanium

Few chronographs also have a power reserve indicator. The traditional display layout leaves little room for an additional gauge. Angelus has placed the indicator at half past seven on the dial, using a subtle asymmetric layout. Tourbillon chronographs are anomalies, and tourbillon rattrapantes are even more unique.

But for Angelus, integrating a rotary regulating organ into the dense and intense A-150 calibre has posed no problem. In fact, combining chronometer and chronograph, measuring precision times and short times is a logical choice for the U30.

Angelus U30 Black Titanium

When it comes to the U30’s design, structure, decoration, functionality and complications, all of these choices are based on an almost unparalleled level of expertise and independence. The A-150 calibre has been entirely developed, machined, decorated, assembled, adjusted and fitted on the Angelus manufacturing site in La Chaux-de-Fonds. This exclusive movement has been designed with exceptional mechanical and graphic detail in mind.

Technical details

Model: U30 Black Titanium
Reference: 0CRBT.B01A.K003N

Functions
Hours and minutes, tourbillon, 30-minute flyback and split-second chronograph, power reserve indicator

Movement
Calibre A-150, skeletonized, self-winding mechanism, one-minute tourbillon, double column wheel
Jewels: 38
Diameter: 37.60mm
Height: 9.35mm
Power reserve: 45 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz / 28,800 vph

Finishing
Platinum: NAC anthracite coated
Bridges: black ADLC-coated, polished and chamfered
Column wheels: black ADLC-coated and mirror polished
Tourbillon cage: polished and hand-chamfered
Rotor: 22-carat white gold segment, black ADLC coated sections

Case
Material: Grade 5 black DLC coated titanium
Diameter: 47.00 mm
Thickness: 15.00 mm
Crown: 2 positions, integrated split-second pusher
Crystal: box sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on inside surface
Back: sapphire crystal
Water resistant: 30 metres/3 ATM/100 ft

Strap
Black rubber strap with grade 5 titanium deployant buckle

Edition
Limited edition of 5 pieces

Worldwide retail price
CHF 66,700 before tax (subject to change)

Vacheron Constantin Collection Excellence Platine Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin

Vacheron Constantin presents a new Collection Excellence Platine timepiece from its Traditionnelle series. Presented at Watches & Wonders 2021, this new Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin platinum watch is produced in an individually numbered 15-piece limited series.

Vacheron Constantin Collection Excellence Platine Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin

Highly appreciated by collectors, the Collection Excellence Platine is exclusively composed of limited editions crafted from 950 platinum: case, bezel, dial, crown and folding clasp are forged in this noble metal, right the way through to the alligator leather strap sewn using woven platinum and silk thread. The other elements of the watch, such as the 18K white gold hands and hour-markers, reflect the same refined universe.

Vacheron Constantin Collection Excellence Platine Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin

Within the 42.5 mm-diameter case beats Calibre 3500, a movement launched in 2015 to mark the 260th anniversary of the Manufacture. Comprising 473 elements and beating at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), it has a 48-hour power reserve.

Vacheron Constantin Collection Excellence Platine Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin

Its distinctive design makes this ultra-thin self-winding movement one of the thinnest for this type of complication (5.2 mm), enabling the watch to maintain a modest overall thickness of just 10.72 mm. The creation of an extremely thin non-spherical differential made it possible to retain the power reserve indication without affecting the movement thickness.

Vacheron Constantin Collection Excellence Platine Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin

This self-winding movement is also equipped with a 22K gold peripheral oscillating weight, adorned with motifs inspired by the Maltese cross. Mounted on ball bearings, this unusual construction provides a perfectly clear view of Caliber 3500, entirely hand decorated. This peripheral structure also serves to preserve its exceptional slimness.

Vacheron Constantin Collection Excellence Platine Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin

This calibre pays tribute to the historic construction of Haute Horlogerie chronographs with its two column-wheels and its lateral clutch mechanism. This classic construction is further enriched by numerous technically advanced features, including the dragging-display 60-minute counter which reduces the loss of amplitude generally observed when the chronograph function is activated. When the chronograph function is stopped, this type of display also provides a more legible indication of the time.

Vacheron Constantin Collection Excellence Platine Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin

The use of a split-seconds chronograph is ideal for measuring two different times. When the crown is pressed, the centre sweep-seconds hand and the split-seconds hand began running while remaining superimposed. Activating the push-piece at 2 o’clock makes the split-seconds stop, while the sweep-seconds hand continues running. A first time can thus be memorised.

Vacheron Constantin Collection Excellence Platine Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin

Another press on the 2 o’clock push-piece enables the split-seconds hand to catch up with and once again place it itself over the seconds hand. The operation may be repeated as many times as necessary to ensure several successive timings during the same event.

Vacheron Constantin Collection Excellence Platine Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin

Technical details

Model: Traditionnelle split-seconds chronograph ultra-thin
Collection: Excellence Platine
Reference: 5400T/000P-B637

Movement
Calibre 3500
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
Peripheral rotor in 22K
37.66 mm (16¾’’’) diameter, 5.2 mm thick
Approximately 48 hours of power reserve
3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour)
473 components
47 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock
Monopusher split-second chronograph (with 60-minute counter at 3 o’clock)
Tachymetric scale
Power reserve at 6 o’clock

Case
950 platinum
42.5 mm diameter, 10.72 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial
950 platinum, sand-blasted
“Pt950” hallmark between 4 and 5 o’clock
18K white gold applied hour-markers

Strap
Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched with
950 platinum and silk, saddle-finish, large square scales

Clasp
950 platinum folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Edition
Limited edition of 15 individually numbered pieces
“N°XX/15” engraved on caseback
Available exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques

A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the 1815 RATTRAPANTE HONEYGOLD, the 1815 THIN HONEYGOLD and the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD

At the Watches & Wonders event in Shanghai in 2020, A. Lange & Söhne unveiled three extraordinary models of the 1815 watch family with the epithet “Homage to F. A. Lange”. The three limited editions with cases made of exclusive honey gold as well as special movement decorations and dials are dedicated to Ferdinand Adolph Lange.

In 2020, A. Lange & Söhne is celebrating two historic milestones: the 175th anniversary of the establishment of the pocket watch manufactory in Glashütte and the 30th anniversary of the brand’s revival.

A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the 1815 RATTRAPANTE HONEYGOLD, the 1815 THIN HONEYGOLD and the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD
A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the 1815 RATTRAPANTE HONEYGOLD, the 1815 THIN HONEYGOLD and the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD

With the introduction of a pocket watch production on 7 December 1845, Ferdinand Adolph Lange laid the cornerstone for Glashütte to rise to prominence as a watchmaking hub. To celebrate the 175th anniversary, A. Lange & Söhne has introduced a special set of three limited-edition models of the 1815 watch family in honey-gold cases – the 1815 RATTRAPANTE HONEYGOLD, the 1815 THIN HONEYGOLD and the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD. All three models belong to the 1815 watch family that refers to Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s birth year in its name.

1815 RATTRAPANTE HONEYGOLD “Homage to F. A. Lange”

The newly developed 1815 RATTRAPANTE HONEYGOLD “Homage to F. A. Lange” is one of three models of an exceptional anniversary collection. Limited to 100 watches and exclusively available in A. Lange & Söhne boutiques, the rattrapante chronograph puts the focus on the eponymous complication. It features a case in honey gold, a black dial, and special movement finissage.

A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the 1815 RATTRAPANTE HONEYGOLD

The honey-gold case of the 1815 RATTRAPANTE HONEYGOLD “Homage to F. A. Lange” has a diameter of 41.2 millimetres. The rare case material developed explicitly for A. Lange & Söhne is characterised by exceptional hardness and a warm sheen. For the first time, it has now been combined with a black dial in solid silver that highlights its modern, captivating looks.

A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the 1815 RATTRAPANTE HONEYGOLD

A. Lange & Söhne’s sixth split-seconds chronograph stands out with another premiere: for the first time, the complication is in the spotlight. The superposed chronograph and rattrapante sweep-seconds hands make it possible during a running time measurement to ascertain any number of lap times within the course of a minute.

A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the 1815 RATTRAPANTE HONEYGOLD

The chronograph sweep-seconds hand, the lower hand, consists of pink-gold-plated steel. It entrains the superposed rattrapante – also called split-seconds – hand made of rhodiumed steel. Both hands start together when the pusher at two o’clock is actuated. The rattrapante sweep-seconds hand can be stopped independently of the chronograph sweep-seconds hand and then resynchronised with it.

A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the 1815 RATTRAPANTE HONEYGOLD

This function is controlled with the pusher at ten o’clock. If it is actuated during an ongoing measurement, the rattrapante sweep-seconds hand stops and displays the lap time while the chronograph sweep-seconds hand keeps running. A second actuation of the pusher causes the rattrapante sweep-seconds hand to catch up and then synchronise with the chronograph sweep-seconds hand. This lap-time measurement procedure can be repeated as many times as needed.

A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the 1815 RATTRAPANTE HONEYGOLD

The complex chronograph/rattrapante mechanism is located on the movement side of the new L101.2 manually wound calibre. The control of elapsed or lap-time measurements is handled highly precisely in the classic manner with two column wheels. Like the rattrapante clamp that blocks the rattrapante hand in the lap-time display mode, it is visible through the sapphire-crystal caseback. This allows the precise switching processes to be observed in detail.

A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the 1815 RATTRAPANTE HONEYGOLD

When fully wound, the mainspring barrel delivers a power reserve of 58 hours. In connection with the screw balance, also manufactured in-house, the freely oscillating Lange balance spring guarantees excellent rate accuracy at a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 hertz).

The artisanal finish of the manually assembled 365-part movement is inspired by the bench-marks developed by Ferdinand Adolph Lange to make his calibres inimitable. The raised Ger-man-silver frame parts are endowed with granular surfaces that are reminiscent of his historic pocket watches in the 1A quality category.

A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the 1815 RATTRAPANTE HONEYGOLD

Among other features, they had gold poising screws, screwed gold chatons to secure the bearing jewels and a hand-engraved balance cock. Today, these traditional quality hallmarks can again be found in many A. Lange & Söhne timepieces.

All upper sides of the moving parts of the rattrapante chronograph, such as levers, springs, and jumpers, are decorated with straight graining while the chamfers are polished. Chamfer polishing of acute interior angles presents a particular challenge. It is a clear indication of the immense manual work involved in such movements. The required degree of perfection is achievable only by experienced finishers with sharp special tools. Great caution is needed during the assembly of the granular frame parts since the sensitive surfaces do not tolerate even the most minute scratches.

All of the fine lines of the free-hand engravings on the balance cock and the chronograph bridge as well as the inscriptions on the bridges are black-rhodiumed. The dark hue of the galvanically applied coating adds plasticity to the engravings. The contemporary evolution of traditional finissage techniques reflects the manufactory’s ambition to never stand still.

1815 THIN HONEYGOLD “Homage to F. A. Lange”

With the 1815 THIN HONEYGOLD “Homage to F. A. Lange”, A. Lange & Söhne celebrates the establishment of Saxon precision watchmaking 175 years ago, when Ferdinand Adolph Lange founded his manufactory for fine timepieces. The two-hand watch in a limited edition of 175 pieces features a case in Lange’s exclusive honey gold, a white enamel dial, and special movement finissage.

A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the 1815 THIN HONEYGOLD

With its numerous traditional hallmarks, the 1815 THIN HONEYGOLD “Homage to F. A. Lange” is also reminiscent of his legendary pocket watches. At the same time, it unites two features that also characterise Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s designs and developments: perfection and clarity.

A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the 1815 THIN HONEYGOLD

The case is merely 6.3 millimetres high and has a diameter of 38 millimetres. Just like the hands and the buckle, it consists of honey gold, an alloy developed exclusively for and used only by A. Lange & Söhne. Thanks to special admixtures and special thermal treatment, the metal is harder and thus more scratch-resistant than other gold alloys with a fineness of 18 carats. It was used for the first time in 2010 for the three watches of the “165 Years – Homage to F. A. Lange” anniversary edition. So far, only eight limited editions of watches cased in this exceptional gold alloy with its warm glow have been launched.

A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the 1815 THIN HONEYGOLD

The L093.1 manufacture calibre of the 1815 THIN HONEYGOLD “Homage to F. A. Lange” is a modern interpretation of Lange’s product philosophy. With a power reserve of 72 hours, the 2.9-millimetre-high manually wound movement proves that compact dimensions and performance are not mutually exclusive. The freely oscillating Lange balance spring has a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour. In combination with a classic screw balance, it assures optimised rate accuracy.

A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the 1815 THIN HONEYGOLD

In all of its artisanal facets, the manually assembled 167-part movement pays tribute to the style introduced by Ferdinand Adolph Lange. Contrary to the Glashütte ribbing commonly used in other Lange models, the German-silver three-quarter plate has a granular surface texture often found in historic Lange pocket watches.

A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the 1815 THIN HONEYGOLD

The crown and ratchet wheels are visibly integrated in the train bridge and decorated with perfectly executed circular graining. Gold chatons secured by three thermally blued screws trace the path of the power transmitted from the mainspring barrel to the escapement. The invisible quality hallmarks include the two-fold assembly of the movement which guarantees technical and visual perfection.

A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the 1815 THIN HONEYGOLD

The freehand engraving on the balance cock is the signature element of all Lange manufacture calibres. The fine lines of the floral pattern are black-rhodiumed, just like the inscription on the plate. The dark hue of the galvanic coating echoes the grey of the dial imprints and at the same time amplifies the three-dimensional effect of the engravings.

TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD “Homage to F. A. Lange”

This special model shows how A. Lange & Söhne has evolved the tradition of precision watchmaking and repeatedly infused it with fresh momentum. Five classic complications are combined in a unique masterpiece of technology called TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL “Pour le Mérite”, introduced in 2017. As a tribute to Ferdinand Adolph Lange, a limited special edition in honey gold is now debuting with a black-rhodiumed dial made of the same material.

A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD

With the dial of the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD “Homage to F. A. Lange”, A. Lange & Söhne has taken a totally new approach. It is black-rhodiumed and, like the 43-millimetre case, consists of solid, 18-carat honey gold. The raised numerals and scales as well as the logo contrast vividly against the dark background. They are not applied and instead are raised from the material by about 0.15 millimetres. In combination with the relief, this creates an incomparable three-dimensional effect.

A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD

The hands of the time and calendar displays as well as the black-rhodiumed lunar disc are made of the same gold alloy. Its two glistening, slightly cambered moons are framed by hand-engraved stars. The dial and the lunar discs are crafted in-house to assure the perfect implementation of the innovative design idea.

A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD

With calibre L133.1, the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD “Homage to F. A. Lange” is endowed with a movement of peerless complexity; it consists of 684 parts. It fully complies with the rules of classic precision watchmaking with design details such as column-wheel control for the rattrapante chronograph, the screw balance, and its artisanal finissage.

A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD

When it was introduced in 2017, the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL “Pour le Mérite” was among the highlights at the SIHH salon in Geneva. The combination of five complications in this arrangement is unique.

As long ago as 2005, A. Lange & Söhne had already created a watch with a fusée-and-chain transmission, a tourbillon, and a rattrapante chronograph: the TOURBOGRAPH “Pour le Mérite”. But the addition of a perpetual calendar required more than 200 extra parts, dramatically changing the power flows in the movement and requiring a new design concept.

With analogue displays, the perpetual calendar indicates all month durations correctly until 2100. After a one-time correction, the calendar is then properly calibrated for the next century. It has three subsidiary dials. The date at twelve o’clock and the day at nine o’clock are indicated with honey-gold hands. The month and leap year are both displayed at three o’clock. The upper half of the analogue date accommodates the moon-phase display which is calculated at an accuracy of 122.6 years.

 

A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD

The connection between the perpetual calendar and the rattrapante chronograph posed a special challenge for the engineers. This is because when both the chronograph function is used and the calendar displays switch, mechanical conflicts must be avoided alongside amplitude fluctuations that could have a negative impact on rate stability.

Here, A. Lange & Söhne was able to benefit from its many years of experience in the development of highly complex chronographs. The top-mounted rattrapante (or split-seconds) hand in blued steel can be stopped independently of the gold-plated chronograph hand and also resynchronised with it via the pusher at ten o’clock.

This allows any number of lap times to be stopped during a running time measurement. The mechanical switching processes are controlled with two column wheels and can be observed in real time through the sapphire-crystal caseback. The 30-minute-counter at nine o’clock completes the repertoire of chronograph displays.

A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD caseback

With their carefully orchestrated interaction, the tourbillon and the fusée-and-chain transmission minimise two unavoidable physical phenomena that are common in all mechanical watches: gravity and the waning force of the mainspring. In 1994, A. Lange & Söhne succeeded for the first time in integrating a fusée-and-chain transmission in the compact dimensions of a wristwatch.

Via a fusée connected to the spring barrel with a chain, the power of the mainspring is delivered to the movement with constant force thanks to the ingenious way in which the principle of levers is harnessed. A planetary gearing mechanism inside the fusée assures that the flow of power from the mainspring barrel to the escapement is not interrupted while the watch is being wound.

A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD

The special finissage of the calibre L133.1 was produced with a great artisanal effort and distinguishes itself from the first generation in essential details. The surfaces of the German-silver bridges and cocks are granularly textured and endowed with black-rhodiumed inscriptions. The filigreed lines of the manually engraved chronograph bridge are black-rhodiumed as well. This increases the three-dimensional effect of the pattern as well as the modernity of the traditional technique.

The artisanal decoration also includes the straight graining on the chain. The black polish on several areas of the curved tourbillon bridge challenges the skills of the finissage experts to the utmost. The tourbillon cage is suspended between two diamond endstones as was the case in Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s historic pocket watches of the then highest quality level, the 1A category.

A. Lange & Söhne “Homage to F. A. Lange” Special Edition Honey Gold Series: the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD

Other technical details of that category included a balance wheel with gold poising screws and screwed gold chatons to secure the bearing jewels. To top it off, a diamond end-stone was integrated in the hand-engraved balance cock. When reincorporating the company, Walter Lange and Günter Blümlein adopted numerous 1A quality criteria in the new product philosophy to build a bridge between tradition and modernity.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph with Platinum Case and Blue Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Since 1923, the split-seconds chronograph occupies a privileged position in Patek Philippe’s wristwatch collection.

The Ref. 5370, the first split-seconds chronograph endowed with the proprietary caliber CHR 29-535 PS was launched in 2015 with a platinum case and black enamel dial. It is one of the most sought-after Patek Philippe watches.

Now, the Geneva brand welcomes a new and finely upgraded version of this watch. This new model boasts a blue Grand Feu enamel dial with glossy finish. Reflecting Patek Philippe’s unmatched expertise in Grand Feu enameling, this lustrous enamel dial in blue was finished by hand on an 18K white gold dial plate.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph (with Platinum Case and Blue Grand Feu Enamel Dial)

The dial is also superbly legible. The hours and minutes are tracked by slender leaf-shaped hands with luminous coatings and applied Breguet numerals in white gold. The counter hand contrast as clearly against the blue dial as do the white-printed scales.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph (with Platinum Case and Blue Grand Feu Enamel Dial)

The two-phase chronograph movement with two pushers for the chronograph functions and a rattrapante pusher integrated in the crown at 3 o’clock is an impressive example of how tradition meets innovation. The classic elements of the basic architecture are the manual winder, dual-column-wheel control, and the horizontal wheel clutch. This contemporary mechanical movement boasts extensive optimization details and patented innovations as well as an advanced rattrapante mechanism.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph (with Platinum Case and Blue Grand Feu Enamel Dial)

The elegant polished platinum case with a concave bezel and satin-finished flank recesses is worn on an alligator strap in shiny night blue secured by a platinum fold-over clasp.

As is the case with all of Patek Philippe’s platinum wristwatches, the new Ref. 5370P-011 is adorned with a small diamond between the lugs at 6 o’clock. It replaces its predecessor with the black enamel dial, presenting a new combination of superb craftsmanship and watchmaking artistry.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph (with Platinum Case and Blue Grand Feu Enamel Dial)

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph

Movement
Caliber CHR 29-535 PS
Manually wound mechanical movement, split-seconds chronograph with two column wheels, wheel clutch (horizontal), and instantaneous 30-minute counter, sweep chronograph and split-seconds hands, subsidiary seconds
Diameter: 29.6 mm
Height: 7.1 mm
Number of parts: 312
Number of jewels: 34
Power reserve: Min. 65 hours with chronograph stopped
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Breguet
Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Functions
Two-position crown:
• Pushed in: To wind the watch
• Pulled out: To set the time

Displays
Center hour and minute hands
Sweep chronograph and split-seconds hands
30-minute counter at 6 o’clock
Subsidiary seconds at 9 o’clock
Pushers: Chronograph start and stop at 2 o’clock
Chronograph reset at 4 o’clock
Rattrapante start and stop at 3 o’clock (pusher integrated in crown)

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Patents
Optimized toothing profile (No. EP 1437633 – 2009)
Improved precision adjustment of mesh depth (No. EP 1947531 – 2009)
Improved synchronization of clutch brake (No. MPM/DF/15484 CH – 2009)
Piercing of minute-counter cam (No. MPM/DF/15483 CH – 2009)
Self-adjusting hammers (No. MPM/DF/15482 CH – 2009)
Hammers suspended between jewel bearings (No. MPM/DF/15481 CH – 2009)

Case
950 platinum
Sapphire-crystal case back and interchangeable solid platinum back
Flawless rare white Top Wesselton diamond between the lugs at
6 o’clock
Water resistant to 30 meters (3 bar)
Case dimensions: Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 13.56 mm
Width between lugs: 22 mm

Dial
Blue Grand Feu enamel on white gold, glossy finish
Applied Breguet numerals in 18K white gold
Scales for tachymeter and chronograph counter printed white
Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands in 18K white gold with luminous coating
Leaf-shaped subsidiary seconds hand in 18K white gold
Chronograph and split-seconds hands in steel, sandblasted and rhodiumed
Leaf-shaped hand for the 30-minute counter in 18K white gold

Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with large square scales, shiny night blue, fold-over clasp in 950 platinum

Atelier de Chronométrie AdC#8 Rattrapante (Split-Seconds Chronograph)

Barcelona based high-end watch specialist Atelier de Chronométrie unveils its latest creation AdC#8, a Split-second chronograph (Rattrapante in German). This one-of-a-kind watch has been entirely handcrafted, exclusively using age old watchmaking techniques and hand-operated machines and tools.

Atelier de Chronométrie AdC#8 Rattrapante (Split-Seconds Chronograph)

This Split-second chronograph with 12-hour counter is based on a vintage Venus 185 movement and it is presented in a new case design made of 18k Grey gold with teardrop lugs. The Pulsations black galvanic “gilt” dial with silvered lettering and scales, and applied Breguet numerals, completes the overall look of this chronograph.

Atelier de Chronométrie AdC#8 Rattrapante (Split-Seconds Chronograph)

The AdC8 project started with the idea of a collector of independents from California who requested Atelier de Chronométrie to create a rattrapante chronograph with the AdC style. To create a suitable engine for this unique timepiece, the atelier has opted for Venus 185, a historical hand-wound column-wheel chronograph movement equipped with the rattrapante (split-seconds) function.

Atelier de Chronométrie AdC#8 Rattrapante (Split-Seconds Chronograph)

From a total of 280 calibre parts, 50 new parts have been created completely by hand without using CNC milling machines. The rest of the 230 parts have been modified and decorated by hand too.

Atelier de Chronométrie AdC#8 Rattrapante (Split-Seconds Chronograph)

The finishes include handmade grainage as well as black polish, anglage, perlage, polished countersinks, straight graining, etirage des flancs, etc. The calibre aesthetics combines a balanced mixture made of the combination of the pink gold plated bridges with the rhodium plated wheels and the steel accents of the levers and black polished parts as well the purple black polished beveled screws. At the center, a new rattrapante wheel made of Titanium with the shape of the Atelier de Chronométrie symbol brings finesse and delicacy.

Atelier de Chronométrie AdC#8 Rattrapante (Split-Seconds Chronograph)

Designing of its 39.8 mm diameter, three-body case was also extremely challenging task. It required almost 9 months of creation process for manufacturing a suitable case, which is as ergonomic as desired by the customer.

Atelier de Chronométrie AdC#8 Rattrapante (Split-Seconds Chronograph)

Due to the height of the rattrapante calibre, the main goals for the creation of this case were to create a visual effect that make it “thinner” and secondly to make it comfortable on the wrist. For those reasons, the center part of this three-body case has a curved shape and is combined with a concave bezel and case back.

Atelier de Chronométrie AdC#8 Rattrapante (Split-Seconds Chronograph)

Inspired by the vintage chronographs, the teardrop lugs give more personality to the whole watch design. The design of the crown with the rattrapante pusher and the two pushers has been executed in order to not protrude excessively from the case profile to maintain harmony. Atelier de Chronométrie has handcrafted the final case in 18k Grey gold. This 18k Grey gold alloy is a high Palladium alloy, which is why it doesn’t need to be rhodied.

Atelier de Chronométrie AdC#8 Rattrapante (Split-Seconds Chronograph)

All the Atelier de Chronométrie designs are inspired in the aesthetics from 40’s and as is the AdC8. For the dial, the Atelier has created a vintage styled medical dial with a pulsometric scale. The black galvanic “gilt” with mirror polished silvered lettering and scales was made by a technique very common in the past but nowadays is really rare and highly laborious to be properly executed.

The applied Breguet numerals and three engine-turned counters (30-minute counter, 12-hour counter and seconds counter) combine perfectly with the 7 leaf hands made in 18k Grey gold.

Atelier de Chronométrie AdC#8 Rattrapante (Split-Seconds Chronograph)

The price of an AdC Split seconds chronograph starts at 85 000 Euros. As every AdC is a unique timepiece, the final price of each project is fixed according to the customer’s requirements.

Technical details

Movement
Manual winding movement based on a Venus 185
23 jewels
Power reserve: 36 hours
Frequency: 18.000 b.p.h.
3 bridges made in Arcap with grainage finish, 18k pink gold plated, polished countersinks, anglage, etirages des flancs and purple black polished beveled screws.
Free sprung balance regulated by 6 masselottes made in 18k rose gold with a black polished stud holder plate.
Anchor bridge made of steel, black polished, polished countesinks and anglage.
Purple black polished beveled screws.
Rattrapante bridge made of steel with 18k pink goldchatonwith black polished countersinks, anglage and beveled screws.
Rattrapante wheel made of Titanium with the AdC symbol shape.
Hand-engraved number 8 satined finish.
All the levers have been decorated with anglage, polished countersinks and straight graining.
The wheels have been rohdium plated and decorated with anglage and circularsatin finished.
Finishes included: grainage as well as black polish, anglage, perlage, polished countersinks, straight graining, etirage des flancs, etc

Dial
Pulsometric black galvanic “gilt” dial with mirror polished silvered lettering and scales and applied Breguet numerals and 3 engine turned sub-seconds
Hands: Handmade 18k Grey gold leaf 7 hands

Case
39. 8 mm three-body case in18k Grey gold with concave bezel and case back and teardrop lugs with high polish finishes.
Handmade 18k Grey gold rattrapante crown and 2 pushers.
Dimensions: 39’8mm diameter, 20mm lugs and 15mm height.
Sapphire glass front and back

Strap
Handmade leather strap
Handmade 18k Grey gold bracelet
Handmade 18k Grey gold buckle

Vacheron Constantin “La Musique du Temps®” Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-seconds Chronograph – Tempo

Vacheron Constantin presents a one-of-a-kind grand complication timepiece powered by a new Manufacture calibre with a total of 24 horological complications.

A double-sided watch, “La Musique du Temps®” Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-seconds Chronograph – Tempo is one of the most complicated wristwatches ever produced by the Maison. This creation belongs to “La Musique du Temps®»: an array of one-of-a-kind timepieces produced in Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers department as a tribute to the art of music.

This one-of-a-kind double-sided timepiece displays the chronograph hours and measurements on the front, along with a perpetual calendar. The back is dedicated to astronomical functions, including indications of solar time, equation of time, sunrise and sunset, day and night duration, as well as the age and phase of the moon. This watch featuring a tourbillon regulator is also equipped with a minute repeater. A total of 24 perfectly legible complications are orchestrated by the new in-house 1,163- part 2756 calibre.

Chiming watches hold a special place within the world of horological complications. For more than two centuries, these complex mechanical devices have been given pride of place by Vacheron Constantin. In 2019, the Maison’s Les Cabinotiers department chose to pay tribute to them through one-of-a-kind models grouped under the theme “La Musique du Temps®».

Vacheron Constantin “La Musique du Temps®” Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-seconds Chronograph – Tempo

Les Cabinotiers split-seconds chronograph – Tempo is the crowning embodiment of this approach. In addition to the minute repeater function, which involves a «musical» structure that must take into account the positioning of the gongs and their harmonious sound when struck, the front side also displays timekeeping and calendar indications in addition to the split-seconds chronograph. The perpetual calendar indications are provided by the two lower subdials: one for the day and date, the other for the month and leap year.

Vacheron Constantin “La Musique du Temps®” Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-seconds Chronograph – Tempo

The symmetrically placed upper subdials are dedicated to marking off time. The hours appear on the left hand subdial with an inner 24-hour disc that can be used to display a second time zone; while the right hand subdial shows the minutes on the outer disc and carries the chronograph 30-minute counter on the inner disc. Given that the chronograph is doubtless one of the most complex horological complications to be integrated into a calibre, the watchmakers of the Maison wanted to express the true measure of its nobility by creating a split-seconds chronograph equipped with a column wheel.

The split-seconds system with two central hands enables intermediate (split) times to be calculated by stopping one of the two hands which, once restarted, «catches up» with the first. With these initial functions, however, the 1,163-component 2756 calibre has revealed only half of its technical prowess.

The timepiece must be turned over to reveal the full scope of this accomplishment. With its perfectly symmetrical case and thanks to the ingenious removable strap attachment system, Les Cabinotiers split-seconds chronograph is perfectly reversible and can be worn on either side, according to the mood of the moment.

On the reverse watch face, the central hands, including the minutes hand with the sun symbol, indicate true solar time. Based on the apparent displacement of the Sun, the latter differs from civil time due to the inclination of the Earth’s axis and the eccentricity of the Earth’s orbit. Mean solar time – the civil time that punctuates our daily lives – and true solar time coincide only four times a year, with maximal variations ranging from -16 minutes and 23 seconds to +14 minutes and 22 seconds.

Vacheron Constantin “La Musique du Temps®” Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-seconds Chronograph – Tempo

The difference is what is known as the equation of time, which, on this timepiece, is of the “running” variety, given the simultaneous nature of the two readings of time on either side of the watch. This information is complemented by indications of sunrise and sunset times as well as the duration of day and night, respectively positioned at 3 and 9 o’clock.

The lowest part of the dial features a display of the age and phase of the moon by means of a retrograde hand sweeping over a semi-circular subdial. Here too, watchmakers have not taken the easy path with this high-precision moon-phase display, which requires only one correction every 1,000 years. To ensure the visual harmony of this second dial, the tourbillon is majestically enthroned at 12 o’clock with its carriage shaped like a Maltese cross – the emblem of the Maison – topped by the central pointer-type power reserve indicator.

Vacheron Constantin “La Musique du Temps®” Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-seconds Chronograph – Tempo

This timepiece with its multiple functions and displays represents an authentic watchmaking challenge.

Firstly, on a technical level, with this calibre developed by the same team as that behind Reference 57260 and in which the smallest detail has been taken into consideration. Witness the split-seconds lifting lever, designed to save energy for a timepiece that thus enjoys a remarkable power reserve of 65 hours and still lasting up to 40 hours even with the chronograph activated.

Secondly, in order to ensure perfect legibility of the two slate grey dials with sunray and guilloché finishes around the circumference. It was indeed the aesthetic options linked to the display that dictated the construction of the calibre within a multidisciplinary approach. The result is an exceptional watch whose generous 50-millimetre diameter and 21-millimetre thickness are softened by the curves of the pink gold case. The alligator leather strap sets the finishing touch to the aesthetic appeal of this watch.

Les Cabinotiers: one-of-a-kind creations

In the Vacheron Constantin universe, Les Cabinotiers represents a department in its own right dedicated to the personalisation of models and to unique creations. This tradition dates back to the 18th century, a time when master watchmakers were called cabinotiers and worked in ateliers bathed in natural light, known as cabinets and located on the top floors of Geneva’s buildings. In the hands of these learned artisans, open to the new ideas of the Enlightenment, exceptional timepieces were born, inspired by astronomy, mechanical engineering and the arts. This expertise, which constitutes the great Geneva watchmaking tradition, has been flowing through Vacheron Constantin’s veins since 1755.

Vacheron Constantin and chiming watches

Chiming watches occupy a special place among horological complications. For more than two centuries, these complex mechanisms have been highlighted by Vacheron Constantin. Today, Les Cabinotiers department has chosen to pay tribute to them through one-of-a-kind creations on the theme “La Musique du temps®”.

Born from the need to tell the time in the dark in an age when people had to rely on candlelight, chiming watches have taken various forms: repeating on demand the hours, quarters or half-quarters, as well as the minutes depending on the versions; Grande and Petite Sonnerie (sounding the hours and quarters in passing, with or without repeating the hour on each quarter) ; and finally those with an alarm (programmable chime). While each of these complications has its own distinctive characteristics, they all combine an integrated and complex mechanism with the finely crafted nature of musical instruments in terms of their resonance, acoustics and harmonics. Featuring watch cases equipped with complex movements as their only means of musical expression, these creations represent a magnificent feat of miniaturisation.

At Vacheron Constantin, the first mention of a chiming watch dates back to 1806: a gold repeater pocket watch registered by the founder’s grandson Jacques Barthélemi Vacheron, in the very first production register kept in the company’s archives. Ever since, sonnerie or repeater watches have been an integral part of the Manufacture’s proud heritage, steadily enriched over the decades.

A sound print certified by Abbey Road Studios

Sound and music have always played a role in the Maison’s partnerships, the latest of which is with Abbey Road Studios, a name closely associated with iconic artists such as The Beatles, Adele and Oasis. In collaboration with the studios, Vacheron Constantin launched its Fiftysix® collection, backed by the “One of not Many” campaign. The partnership also has a role to play for “La musique du Temps””, as Vacheron Constantin entrusts Abbey Road Studios with recording the unique sound of each model.

For the first time, the repeater watches from “La Musique du Temps®” range have a unique sound print, recorded and certified by Abbey Road Studios.

Technical details

Collection: “La Musique du Temps®”, Les Cabinotiers: one-of-a-kind creations
Model: Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-seconds chronograph – Tempo
Reference 9740C/000R-B692

Movement
Calibre 2756
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin mechanical manual-winding
33.3 mm (14 ¾’’’) diameter, 16.35 mm thick
Movement power reserve: approximately 65 hours
2.5 Hz (18,800 vibrations/hour)
1,163 components
40 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications

  • Front: Off-centre hours and minutes – Minute repeater (hours, quarters and minutes on demand) – 2nd time zone / 24H time zone – 30-minute counter chronograph – Split-second chronograph – Perpetual calendar (date, day, month and leap year)
  • Back: Regulator tourbillon – Retrograde phase and age of the moon – Running equation of time – Sunrise and sunset time – Day / Night length – Power reserve indication

Case
18K 5N pink gold
50 mm de diameter, 21 mm thick

Dial
Sunray slate opaline for the upper central part
Guilloché central ring
Sunray slate grey external ring
White painted indications

Strap
Brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
18K 5N pink gold folding clasp and 18K 5N pink gold buckle; Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Presentation box & accessory
Les Cabinotiers model

Rarity
One-of-a-kind timepiece
”Pièce unique” and “Les Cabinotiers” inscriptions engraved between the lugs of the timepiece