PETER ROBERTS, master watch maker and veteran of the British watch industry for over 40 years, is unveiling a grand complication watch equipped with legendary Swiss mechanical movement Valjoux Calibre 88.
This highly exclusive limited edition timepiece has been inspired from an original watch model created by the master watch maker himself in 1972 during his horology training in Switzerland. The original grand complication timepiece made by PETER ROBERTS featured five hands, a rare technological feat in those days.
Having produced the first-ever wristwatch with five hands from the centre, in 1971/1972, Roberts has been implored by those who have seen the “Concentrique” to make another. In part, the problem was a lack of Valjoux movements suitable for the task.
Roberts and his wife Marie-Louise, who is also his best friend and business partner, had not entertained the idea in any seriousness. That changed after a meeting with a watch manufacturer who, impressed by what he saw, revealed to them that he had sufficient raw Valjoux movements of the type required, enough to manufacture a limited run, but unlikely ever to be repeated. This movement was last made in 1974.
After decades of resisting pleas to sell his own chronograph or to put it into production, Peter Roberts has announced the release of the Peter Roberts Grand Complication 5. It will be offered in a limited edition of only 40 examples in stainless steel, with four watches to be produced in rose gold. The quantities mark the four decades since Roberts made his first five-hand “Concentrique”.
Manufacturing unique pieces in such small numbers is difficult, and can be prohibitively expensive. To realise the first commercially-available timepiece to bear his name, Roberts has called on contacts in both Switzerland and England to enable these watches to be produced.
Inside the Peter Roberts Grand Complication 5 is a completely reworked movement based on the Valjoux Calibre 88, each individually completed by Peter. Beyond the base ébauche, every part of the “Concentrique” complication, through to the case, the dial, the hands and the crown is a unique design conceived by Roberts for the Grand Complication 5 watch.
All of its brass parts are hand-finished, the plates hand-bevelled, polished, grained and gold-plated. All steel parts have their top surfaces hand-grained, with edges broken and hand-burnished.
Because Roberts is passionate about having spent his life in the horological profession, and having his education and training in both England and Switzerland, all parts of the Grand Complication watch come from these two countries.
This element of Peter Roberts’ creations is symbolised in the brand logo. Just as he devised a five-handed watch to complete his studies, Roberts has again turned to five hands for this timepiece, powered by a unique design he calls the “Concentrique” mechanism.
The Grand Complication 5 will only be available to a select group of 40 clients and collectors. The prices for these rare pieces are £18,000 inc VAT for the stainless steel versions and £28,000 inc VAT for the rose gold versions.
Model: PETER ROBERTS Concentrique Grand Complication 5
Time of day, including hours, minutes, seconds
Full Chronograph, including seconds, minute recorder, hour recorder
24 Hour GMT indicator + second time zone with bezel
Full calendar, with date, day, month
Valjoux 88 base – Hand finished
“Concentrique” – unique mechanism
Power reserve: 46 hours
Diameter: 13 ‘’’ 29.5 mm
Height: 7.35 mm
Diameter: 42 mm
Steel case: Stainless steel and bronze
Gold case: 18K rose and white gold
Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflection coatings
Back: Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 100 metres
22 mm Autumn Brown – Finest quality leather – hand-stitched
Three subsidiary dials displaying – Running seconds/ minute recorder/hour recorder
Main Colour: Black + Super-LumiNova®
Sub-dials colour: Silver
Running seconds/minute recorder/hour recorder: Black
Running hour/minute hand: Red + Super-LumiNova®
24 Hour hand (GMT): Yellow + Super-LumiNova®
Date hand: Orange
Chronograph seconds: White + Super-LumiNova®
Aperture displays: Day + Month + Moonphase