Panerai presents new Luminor Goldtech™ Calendario Perpetuo, a limited-edition perpetual calendar watch.
Composed of Panerai Goldtech™, 750‰ gold with platinum, the 44mm Luminor case is a classic silhouette in the Panerai design lexicon. Except for the crown-protecting device, the caseback and the buckle, its surface is polished to a high shine, creating a radiant frame for each elegantly arrayed feature.
The automatic movement P.4100, created by Panerai, drives the functions of the Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo. The movement offers intuitive setting that requires no corrector or tools, permitting adjustments to the day, date, month and year through rotating the crown in either direction.
Moreover, there are no limitations to the freedom to make adjustments, including during month-end periods and approaching midnight. The GMT function operates alongside the hour and minute hands, with the subdial at 9 o’clock featuring the day-night indicator and small seconds. A 22-carat gold micro-rotor winds and stores energy in two barrels.
A smoked sapphire crystal dial allows complete visibility of the day and date discs, providing an uninterrupted view of the interior architecture of the watch. Through the sapphire caseback the month, year, leap year and power reserve indicators are visible.
Available in only 33 pieces, the watch comes fitted on a black patina alligator strap with a matte finish.
Water resistant up to 50 meters, the Luminor Goldtech™ Calendario Perpetuo features a trapezoidal pin buckle in Panerai Goldtech™. A screwdriver to remove the buckle accompanies the watch together with a black rubber second strap.
Each buyer of the Luminor Goldtech™ Calendario Perpetuo will be invited to an extraordinary journey to the seat of Panerai heritage, the city of Florence and the surrounding Tuscan countryside. The experience will immerse clients in the brand’s origins and the essence of Italian excellence through events that combine cuisine, culture and tours of historical sites.
Buyers of the Panerai Luminor Goldtech™ Calendario Perpetuo will also receive access to an exclusive NFT created by an artist for the occasion.
Technical details
Model: Panerai Luminor Goldtech™ Calendario Perpetuo
Reference PAM01269
Movement
Automatic mechanical, P.4100 caliber, 15 ½ lignes, 6.9 mm thick
55 jewels
Glucydur™ balance
28,800 alternations/hour
KIF™ anti-shock device
Two barrels
Seconds reset
Stop Balance wheel
Power Reserve: 3 days
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, day, month, year, leap year, GMT, power reserve indicator, perpetual calendar, seconds reset
Case
Diameter 44mm
Polished Panerai Goldtech™ case
Polished Panerai Goldtech™ bezel and see-through sapphire crystal satiné caseback
Satiné Panerai Goldtech™ Safety Lock crown protection device (protected by trademark)
Sapphire crystal formed of corundum
Waterproof: 5 bar (~50 meters)
Dial
Smoked sapphire dial with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers
Day of the week, date at 3 o’clock, seconds and 24h indicator at 9 o’clock
Strap
Alligator black patina strap, ecru stitching, 24/22 mm, BA, STD. Trapezoidal brushed Panerai Goldtech™
Vacheron Constantin presents the Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin, a new feminine timepiece in its Traditionnelle collection, a line imbued with the grand Geneva watchmaking heritage and whose design was intended to adapt to all types of watches, whether simple or equipped with sophisticated complications.
This timepiece equipped with in-house Calibre 1120 QP elegantly plays on the distinctive aspects of the Gregorian calendar. It displays the days, dates, months and years on a four-year cycle, including a leap-year indication, without any need for correction before 2100.
This calendar display is complemented by a moon-phase indication at 6 o’clock. Another distinctive feature of this movement is its thinness: measuring only 4.05 mm thick, it is housed in an 8.43 mm-thick case with a 36.5 mm diameter, ensuring perfect visual harmony.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin for Ladies
Calibre 1120 QP reflects the Maison’s expertise in ultra-thin movements that has enabled it to set several records in terms of slimness since the 1950s.
With its 276 components perfectly visible through the sapphire caseback, it also reflects noble watchmaking traditions through its extremely meticulous finishing: a circular-grained plate on the dial side, mainplate and bridges adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif on the back, hand-bevelling, circular satin-finished holes and a going train with polished teeth. The oscillating weight featuring a 22K gold segment is also adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif and openworked in the shape of the Maison’s Maltese cross emblem.
This watch whose aesthetic refinement echoes its technical sophistication pays tribute to the identity codes of Vacheron Constantin, whereby the quest for excellence is expressed through the smallest, even invisible details.
Available in 18K white gold and 18K 5N pink gold versions, it is inspired by Vacheron Constantin models from the first half of the last century. It features the strong sense of understatement characterising the collection, embellished with a few special features such as the stepped lugs and case, fluted caseback, as well as Dauphine-type hands flying over a railway minutes track punctuated by baton-type hour-markers.
In keeping with the methodical spirit of the time, which held that function should dictate form, this perpetual calendar has been specially designed to make it easy to read the calendar indications thanks to a slimmed-down bezel offering a larger dial opening.
The dial is adorned with blue-grey tinted mother-of-pearl for the white gold model and white mother-of-pearl for the pink gold model.
The moon-phase disc bears the same colours as the dial, while the depiction of the moon and the stars adopts the same shade of gold as the case, complete with an opaline finish. In a final touch of elegance, the bezel and top of the lugs are delicately set with 76 round-cut diamonds, while the crown is adorned with a round-cut diamond.
For the first time in the collection, this Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin watch is equipped with an interchangeable strap that can be fitted at the touch of a push-button and without any need for tools.
Each model comes with an alligator leather strap – grey blue or rosy beige – secured by a white or pink gold pin buckle set with 17 round-cut diamonds.
Technical details
Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin
References
4305T/000G-B948: 18K white gold case version with blue grey mother-of-pearl dial
4305T/000R-B947: 18K 5N pink gold version with white mother-of-pearl dial
Movement
Calibre 1120 QP
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
29.6 mm (12½’’’) diameter, 4.05 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations per hour)
276 components
36 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Indications
Hours, minutes
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, 48-month display with leap year indication)
Moon phases
Case
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold
36.5 mm diameter, 8.43 mm thick
Bezel and lugs set with 76 round-cut diamonds
Crown set with 1 round-cut diamond
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)
Dial
Blue grey/White mother-of-pearl
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold hour-markers and hands
Strap
Blue grey (4305T/000G-B948) / Rosy beige (4305T/000R-B947)
Mississippiensis alligator leather with calfskin leather inner shell, stitched tip, square scales
With integrated self-interchangeable system
Buckle 18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold pin buckle set with 17 round-cut diamonds
Total diamond-setting
94 round-cut diamonds, for a total weight of approx.
1.20 carats (guaranteed minimum carats)
Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet has launched a new iteration of its Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar combining an 18-carat white gold case with a blue aventurine dial and a matching textured rubber-coated strap.
This contemporary timepiece continues the Manufacture’s long history of calendar watches while foregrounding once more the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet’s endless creativity.
The new Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar combines an 18-carat white gold case with a blue aventurine dial and a matching textured rubber-coated strap.
The white gold timepiece adorns a dark blue dial in aventurine glass recalling a star-lit sky. This glass has been polished and very thinly cut before being applied onto the dial’s plate.
The moon phase at 6 o’clock has been reproduced through laser engraving and applied on a thin aventurine disc. The day number and week day, respectively located at 3 and 9 o’clock, as well as the month indication at 12 o’clock are also presented on aventurine subdials.
For their part, the week numbers have been transferred onto the corresponding blue lacquered inner bezel. The white gold hour-markers and hands add a subtle contrast, while recalling the colour of the case and crown.
The double curved sapphire crystal that seamlessly integrates the extra-thin bezel’s curvature completes the watch’s overall design, while providing a unique visual effect onto the dial.
This new 18-carat white gold version complements the perpetual calendar model crafted in 18-carat pink gold unveiled in 2019 for the launch of the collection. The white gold extra-thin bezel, stylised lugs, octagonal case middle as well as round caseback provide an elegant contrast with the blue aventurine dial.
The alternation of satin-brushing and polished chamfers adorning the different components add an interesting play of light, while accentuating the complex architecture of the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection.
Conceived with both women and men in mind, this complicated wristwatch will sit comfortably on all wrists thanks to the 41 mm case’s ergonomic curvature.
The timepiece is fitted with a dark blue rubber-coated calfskin strap finished with a textured motif, giving a highly contemporary look to this classic complication. The straight integration of the strap in the continuity of the lugs, which have been welded to the extra-thin bezel, further reveals the refined hand-finishing techniques adorning the case.
This timepiece houses the Manufacture’s selfwinding perpetual calendar movement, Calibre 5134, fitted with the collection’s dedicated22-carat pink gold oscillating weight. Calibre 5134 automatically takes into account the number of days in the month and correctly displays the prevailing date even in leap years.
Assuming the watch is kept regularly wound, the date will not require manual correction until 2100, at which point it will require adjustment in order to stay in line with the Gregorian calendar.
The movement has been finished with refined decorations including “Côte de Genève,” microbead-blasting, sunray finishing, satin-brushing and polished chamfers, all visible through the sapphire caseback.
The Legacy of Audemars Piguet Calendar Watches
Astronomical watches are deeply rooted in the Vallée de Joux’s watchmaking history, as watchmakers have always drawn inspiration from the region’s clear night sky. Audemars Piguet’s uninterrupted history of astronomical complications started with the two founders’ school pocket watch masterpieces, both completed around 1875.
The one of Jules Louis Audemars (Audemars Piguet Heritage Collection, Inv. 8), which combined a perpetual calendar with a quarter repeater mechanism and the rare independent deadbeat second function, saw several evolutions at the company’s workbenches over the following twenty years.
Yet, during the company’s first two decades, calendar complications accounted for less than 10% of its total production.
Audemars Piguet’s first full calendar wristwatch was put into production in 1921 and sold three years later to the renowned retailer Gübelin. From 1921 to 1970, 188 full calendar wristwatches were produced – a small part of the Manufacture’s total production during these years.
In 1955, the company released the world’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch with leap year indication, 9 examples of which were created between 1955 and 1957.
The brand broke another record in 1978 at the height of the quartz crisis when it released the world’s thinnest selfwinding perpetual calendar wristwatch of its time. Conceived in secret by three devoted watchmakers, the ground-breaking perpetual calendar wristwatch achieved its extra-thinness (3.95 mm) by using the ultra-thin Calibre 2120, launched in 1967, as a base.
A total of 7,219 perpetual calendar wristwatches fitted with this calibre were put into production in the following 15 years. The success of Calibre 2120/2800 ushered in a new era of growth for Audemars Piguet and paved the way for the revival of classical complications.
Launched in 2015, Calibre 5134 adapted the perpetual calendar movement to a larger Royal Oak 41 mm case diameter (Model 26574), while retaining a thin profile with its 4.31 mm in thickness. This calibre has powered many perpetual calendar wristwatches across the Manufacture’s collection ever since, including the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet since 2019.
In 2018, the Manufacture opened yet another chapter in its history of perpetual calendar timepieces with the advent of the revolutionary 41 mm Royal Oak Self-winding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, known as RD#2 – the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch upon release.
This 6.3mm-thick watch houses Calibre 5133, a newly engineered ultra-thin movement measuring a mere 2.89mm in height, heralding yet another generation of astronomical watches.
Technical details
Model: Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar / 41 mm
Reference: 26394BC.OO.D027KB.01
Case
18-carat white gold case
Case diameter: 41mm
Case thickness: 10.9mm
Double curved glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Glare-proofed sapphire caseback
Water-resistant to 30 m
Movement
Self-winding Calibre 5134
Total diameter: 29mm (12 ¾ lignes)
Total thickness: 4.31mm
Number of jewels: 38
Number of parts: 365
Minimum power reserve guaranteed: 40h
Frequency of balance wheel: 2.75Hz (19,800 vibrations/hour)
Functions
Perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours and minutes
Dial
Blue aventurine dial, white gold applied hour-markers and hands with luminescent coating, blue lacquered inner bezel
Strap
Blue rubber-coated calfskin strap with 18-carat white gold folding clasp
Vacheron Constantin presents a new Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph timepiece with a platinum case with a salmon-coloured dial. This classically inspired combination is available in limited annual production exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques. This new high complication watch is powered by the in-house Calibre 1142 QP.
As its name suggests, this watch embodies traditional watchmaking codes, notably including Dauphine-type hands, a railway-type minutes track and a stepped case with distinctive fluting on the back. The legibility of the functions – an essential characteristic of Vacheron Constantin watches – is carefully orchestrated between the chronograph and the perpetual calendar.
Time indications are provided by white gold hands and hour-markers, while the chronograph and date functions are displayed by blued steel hands. The 30-minute chronograph counter and the small seconds counter appear in a perfectly balanced symmetrical arrangement.
The moon phases appear on a platinum disc at 6 o’clock, integrated within the pointer-type date display. The day, month and leap-year cycle are read off through apertures in the upper part of the dial.
The technical nature of the model is further accentuated by the tachymeter scale around the periphery and serving to calculate the average speed over a distance of 1000 metres thanks to the positioning of the chronograph seconds hand.
In keeping with the Maison’s philosophy of sophisticated aesthetics ensuring that each component benefits from meticulous care enhancing the overall beauty of each model, meticulous attention has been lavished on the dial.
Its opaline salmon-coloured small seconds and chronograph minute counters are distinguished by a circular satin- brushed ring with a finely snailed centre. The same snailed finish is featured on the circumference displaying the date numerals.
The platinum disc, bearing a moon that is alternately smiling and melancholy depending on the phase, has also been revisited in the spirit of 19th century table watches. The raised moons are polished and surrounded by stars against a frosted background.
One final detail plays a particularly important role in accentuating the exclusive nature of this new interpretation: a relief and facetted version of Maison’s emblematic Maltese cross beneath the 12 o’clock hour-marker. Crafted in 18K 5N pink gold, it features facets on each arm that are sandblasted on one side and polished on the other, thus providing a new expression of the Vacheron Constantin symbol.
This watch is equipped with manual-winding Calibre 1142 QP. This chronograph movement, complemented by a perpetual calendar, is one of the most highly prized historical calibres among collectors. It dates back to the 1940s and is notably distinguished by the sophisticated aesthetics of its architecture as well as by its reliability and precision enhanced by its column-wheel system.
This 324-component movement in its perpetual calendar version has been adapted over the decades, particularly to meet Hallmark of Geneva criteria, while its rate frequency has been modified to 3 Hz (21,600 vph) and its power reserve amounts to 48 hours.
The movement finishing which can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback is the object of particular attention perfectly illustrating this year’s theme, with a circular-grained mainplate, Côtes de Genève motif on the bridges, hand-bevelled components and straight-grained flanks.
The watch comes with an alligator leather strap secured by a folding clasp in platinum.
The elegant design of this new Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph is entirely in keeping with Vacheron Constantin’s 2022 “The Anatomy of Beauty®” theme. This extraordinarily painstaking care is expressed through the designers’ aesthetic choices and preferences as well as in the meticulous finishing work performed by the artisans.
Technical details
Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Reference: 5000T/000P-B975
Movement
Caliber 1142 QP
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
27.5 mm (12’’’) diameter, 7.37 mm thick
Approximately 48 hours of power reserve
3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
324 components
21 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Indications
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month, leap year indication)
Moon phase
Column-wheel chronograph (30-minute counter at 3 o’clock)
Case
950 platinum
43 mm diameter, 12.94 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)
Dial
Salmon-coloured opaline
950 Platinum moon disc
18K white gold applied hour-markers and hour and minute hands
Blued steel chronograph and date hands
Black painted tachymeter scale
Strap
Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp: 950 platinum folding clasp; Polished half Maltese cross-shaped
Accessory
Delivered with a corrector pen
Availability
Available exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques
Jaeger-LeCoultre has added a perpetual calendar watch to the Polaris line for the first time. Featuring a deep gradient-blue lacquer dial amplifying its sporty-elegant style, the Polaris Perpetual Calendar takes its aesthetic cues from the Polaris Mariner Memovox.
Its newly developed, in-house movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868AA provides a display of the moon phases in both hemispheres, as well as an extended power reserve of 70 hours, in addition to the perpetual calendar displays and rotating inner bezel – a signature of the Polaris line.
The historic Polaris name was reintroduced by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 2018 with an entirely new line of watches that harness the Manufacture’s distinguished legacy of diving watches, and translate the spirit of the celebrated 1968 Memovox Polaris into contemporary form. Conceived for everyday adventures, with a combination of robust capabilities, practical functions and a distinctive aesthetic, the Polaris collection has redefined the modern sporty-elegant watch.
Perpetual calendar is among the most challenging complications to master; a miniature mechanical computer, it must automatically adjust for months of different lengths and even for leap years.
At the end of the 19th century, LeCoultre & Cie developed its first perpetual calendar pocket watches. Due to the difficulty of creating such complex mechanisms on the tiny scale of a watch, the complication was still extremely rare when Jaeger-LeCoultre presented its first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1937. Since then, the Manufacture’s watchmakers have continuously improved the precision and quality of these remarkable mechanisms.
The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868AA developed for the Polaris Perpetual Calendar has evolved from the well-proven in-house perpetual calendar movement that first appeared in 2013.
It has been upgraded in line with the Manufacture’s latest technical innovations and significantly modified, with a retrograde display of Southern Hemisphere moon phases complementing the classical Northern Hemisphere moon-phase display, as well as an increase in power reserve to 70 hours. Supplementing the calendar indications, the rotating inner bezel – a Polaris signature – offers the practical function of measuring elapsed time.
Lacquered in a deep gradient-blue colour, the dial of the Polaris Perpetual Calendar takes its aesthetic cues from the Polaris Mariner Memovox. The graduated blue suggests the transition from day to night – a subtle reminder of the connection between celestial phenomena and time measurement.
With an emphasis on balance and legibility, the calendar indications are displayed in three sub-dials. The date, month and day indicators are at 9, 12 and 3 o’clock respectively, with the year displayed within the month indicator. The moon phases are displayed at 6 o’clock – with a retrograde display for the Southern Hemisphere framing a classical display for its Northern counterpart. Each of the four sub-dials is slightly recessed and finished in different textures, adding visual richness as the light plays across them.
At the centre of the dial, a small security zone indicator shows red between the hours of 20:00 and 04:00 to warn the user not to adjust the time or calendar indications. Skeletonised hands allow greater visibility of the indications and, in keeping with the contemporary Polaris design codes; bold trapezoid-shaped indexes balance the complexity and fine detail of the calendar displays. Luminescent coating on hands and indexes enhances legibility in all light conditions.
The 42mm cases, in steel or pink gold, feature the key Polaris design codes: taut lines, fine bezels, glass-box crystals, and an eye-catching mix of brushed and polished surfaces. A transparent sapphire crystal case-back and an open-worked pink gold winding rotor reveal the fine decorative finishes on the movement.
Crucially for a timepiece designed for everyday living, the Polaris Perpetual Calendar is easy to operate and adjust. The top crown rotates the inner bezel – both features being Polaris signatures – while the lower crown is for setting the time and winding the watch. Calendar settings are adjusted via a single pusher.
Thanks to a newly developed interchangeable strap system, which is operated by simply pressing on the pushers integrated into the attachment point between the lugs, the Polaris Perpetual Calendar is adaptable for every adventure. Capitalising on its sporty character, the steel model is offered with both a three-link steel bracelet and textured rubber strap, while the elegance of the pink gold model is complemented by a blue rubber strap and, for a more formal look, an alligator strap with a folding buckle.
Adding to the options for personalisation is a collection of calfskin straps in a variety of colours.
References
Q9088180: Steel version
Q9082680: Pink gold version
Case
Steel or pink gold
Dimensions: 42mm x 11.97mm
Water resistance: 100m
Movement
Calibre: automatic mechanical Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868AA
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 70 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar with moon phases in two hemispheres and red security zone, inner rotating bezel
Dial
Gradient blue lacquer
Strap
Steel version with interchangeable steel bracelet and rubber strap
Pink gold version with interchangeable rubber strap and alligator leather strap
Vacheron Constantin has released a new interpretation of the Overseas ultra-thin perpetual calendar model. This new skeletonised interpretation in 18K 5N pink gold comes with a blue dial.
The Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin was the winner of the Calendar and Astronomy Watch prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2020.
In order to keep track of the Gregorian calendar’s distinctive features, a perpetual calendar must be equipped with a mechanical memory of 1,461 days, taking the form of a cam on which, the different monthly durations are duly programmed. The mechanism can thus indicate without any need for correction months of 28, 30 and 31 days, as well as leap years.
On the Overseas perpetual calendar ultra-thin model, the day and date display along the horizontal axis is complemented on the vertical axis by the month indication across four years, while the moon-phase indication is symmetrically positioned at 6 o’clock beneath an opaque glass. The next adjustment of the date will only take place in 2100, a secular year divisible by four but not by 400 and therefore not a leap year – another singularity of the Gregorian calendar.
The Manufacture self-winding Calibre 1120 measuring just 2.45 mm thick is already considered a classic in the world of mechanical watches.
Complemented by a perpetual calendar module to form a total thickness of 4.05 mm, it nestles at the heart of the 18K 5N pink gold case with a total 8.1 mm thickness. Greatly appreciated by collectors for its reliability and performance, Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 has been entirely skeletonised.
All parts of Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 have been hollowed out, finished and decorated. The technical and aesthetic attention paid to the architecture of the calibre and to the surface finishes – including those that remain hidden from sight – stems from expertise in which the smallest details compose the anatomy of beauty characterising the timepieces from the Maison.
The movement has benefited from haute horlogerie finishing work entirely done by hand on all its components, which have been hand-drawn to create a satin-brushed appearance, chamfered to enhance the play of light and given a circular-brushed, sunburst or circular-grained decoration according to their place in the heart of the calibre.
The care devoted to these finishes is accentuated by the anthracite grey tone given by NAC (N-acetylcysteine) electrolytic treatment of the mainplate, bridges and open-worked oscillating weight shaped like a Maltese cross with a segment in 22K gold.
Operating at a rate of 19,800 vibrations per hour (2.75 Hz) and endowed with a 40-hour power reserve, the movement can be admired through the sapphire back of the 41.5 mm diameter case.
On the dial side, the thin blue calendar display rings and the same colour flange also provide a clear view of the calibre, while ensuring perfect legibility.
Thanks to its simple and practical interchangeable bracelet/strap system, the Overseas perpetual calendar ultra-thin skeleton watch can be adapted to any situation. It comes on an 18K 5N pink gold bracelet and is accompanied by two additional calfskin leather and rubber straps, each with an 18K 5N pink gold pin buckle.
The Overseas perpetual calendar ultra-thin skeleton watch is entirely in tune with Vacheron Constantin’s 2022 ‘Anatomy of Beauty®’ theme, which highlights the extraordinary attention involved to details all the way to the smallest component.
Technical details
Model: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton
Reference 4300V/120R-B642
Movement
Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
Open-worked oscillating weight inspired by the shape of a Maltese cross with a segment in 22K gold
NAC treatment
29.6 mm (12½’’’) diameter, 4.05 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations per hour)
276 components
36 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Indications
Hours and minutes
Perpetual calendar (date, day of the week, month, leap year)
Moon phases
Case
18K 5N pink gold
41.5 mm diameter, 8.1 mm thick
Soft iron casing ring ensuring anti-magnetic protection
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 5 bar (approx. 50 metres)
Dial
Sapphire
18K 5N pink gold hour-markers and hours & minutes hands highlighted with Super-LumiNova®
Bracelet
18K 5N pink gold bracelet (half Maltese cross-shaped polished and satin-brushed links), secured by a 18K 5N pink gold triple-blade folding clasp with push-pieces and comfort-adjustment system
Additional straps
Blue calf leather strap with white stitches
Blue rubber
Buckles: Each additional strap comes with an 18K 5N pink gold buckle
Availability
Model exclusively available from Vacheron Constantin boutiques
Complicated yet simple, the H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual Calendar was created in 2005. Easy to read and set, it can be adjusted both forwards and backwards at any time of the day.
In 2015, H. Moser & Cie. unveiled the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue, which contributed to the brand’s revival while establishing its new aesthetic codes – a bold blend of the traditional and modern.
In 2022, H. Moser & Cie. is launching an updated version of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue, measuring 42 mm and featuring the brand’s logo in transparent lacquer.
To mark this event, and to aid those who may still wonder how their perpetual calendar works, H. Moser & Cie. is creating a very special commemorative limited edition which showcases the ingenious technical characteristics of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar.
An iconic piece, the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar model by H. Moser & Cie. is known for its complex movement, which nevertheless boasts unrivalled ease of use. No hard-to-read sub-dial or date disc: the indices display not only the hours, but also the months, using a small hand in the centre.
A very large date window at 3 o’clock, with the “Flash Calendar” function providing an instant date change at midnight, and a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock displaying the movement’s seven days of autonomy, complete the piece. The time and date are easy to set using the screw-down crown and can be changed at any time of the day.
Virtually all perpetual calendars on the market require careful handling, with strict adherence to every step of their very precise instructions. This leaves many customers reluctant to take them out of their box and tackle this time-consuming process – and too afraid to risk changing the date. H. Moser & Cie. has revolutionised the perpetual calendar by transforming a complication designed for the most discerning of collectors into a watch that even a child could operate.
The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue model was released in 2015 to mark the brand’s revival. Today, H. Moser & Cie. is revisiting this piece in a 42 mm version with a logo applied in transparent lacquer, as a reminder that authentic luxury goes beyond any artifice and that the fumé dial – the brand’s iconic signature – speaks for itself.
As for the very special series, this true “perpetual calendar for dummies” takes the piece in the opposite direction to the minimalist philosophy habitually cultivated by H. Moser & Cie., which the pared-down dial and intuitive functions of the perpetual calendar illustrate perfectly.
In a creative undertaking demonstrating the offbeat humour of H. Moser & Cie., the dial of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar has been scrawled with notes and drawings which encapsulate the features of this movement.
Technical details
Models
Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue, reference 1800-0204, 18-carat white gold model, Funky Blue fumé dial with logo in transparent lacquer, beige kudu leather strap
Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial, reference 1800-0205, 18-carat white gold model, Funky Blue fume dial, beige kudu leather strap, limited edition of 20 pieces
Case
18K white gold
Diameter: 42.0 mm
Height: 11.9 mm
Curved sapphire crystal
Curved see-through sapphire crystal case back
Screw-in crown adorned with an “M”
Dial
Funky Blue fumé with sunburst pattern
H. Moser & Cie. logo in transparent lacquer or decals
Leaf-shaped hands
Months indicated by a small arrow-shaped centre hand
Seconds hand
Big date display
Movement
Hand-wound HMC 800 Manufacture calibre
Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15 lignes
Height: 6.3 mm
Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h
32 jewels
Power reserve: minimum 7 days
Hacking seconds
Double barrel
Interchangeable Moser escapement
Original Straumann® hairspring
Pallet fork and escapement wheel made from gold
Movement and components hand-finished and decorated
Functions
Hours and minutes
Perpetual calendar
Big date display
Month indicator via central hand
Seconds dial at 6 o’clock
Power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock
Leap year cycle indicator on movement side
Strap
Hand-stitched beige kudu leather
Solid 18-carat white gold folding clasp engraved with the Moser logo
Swiss watch brand Frederique Constant presents a new Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture timepiece with a captivating blue-grey dial.
The new deep blue-grey dial guarantees perfect legibility thanks to the contrast of the white typography and the mirror-polished and luminescent hour-markers and hands. The day can be read at 9 o’clock, the months and leap years at 12 o’clock and the date at 3 o’clock. At 6 o’clock, a moon phase completes the set.
Discreet correctors placed on the case allow, with the crown, to adjust the whole. At the centre of this dial features the guilloché motif of the Earth, the aesthetic signature of the Highlife collection.
Its 41 mm case is designed with an integrated three-link bracelet, alternating polished and satin-finished surfaces. With no lugs, it falls smoothly and naturally on the wrist. A special feature of the Highlife collection is that it is interchangeable, and can be alternated with a navy blue textured and stitched rubber extra strap –delivered with the watch – without the need for any tools.
The Manufacture FC-775 self-winding mechanical movement, embellished with delicate circular graining and Côtes de Genève decoration, can be admired through the exhibition case-back.
Functions
Hours, minutes, moonphase, date, day, month, leap year
Movement
FC-775 in-house caliber, automatic, perpetual calendar
Perlage& circular Côtes de Genève decorations
38-hour power reserve, 26 jewels, 28’800 alt/h
Case
Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-part case
Diameter of 41mm
Height of 12.65 mm
Scratch-resistant convex sapphire crystal with anti-glare coating on both sides
See-through case back
Water-resistant up to 5 ATM/50m/164ft
Dial
Blue grey dial, globe decoration
Silver color applied indexes filled with white luminous treatment
Hand-polished silver color hour and minute hands filled with white luminous treatment
Date counter at 3 o’clock with silver color hand
Moonphase at 6 o’clock
Day counter at 9 o’clock with silver color hand
Month and (leap) year counter at 12 o’clock with silver color hands
Bracelet
3-link brushed and polished stainless steel bracelet
Including an additional navy blue rubber strap
The single-piece edition Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus combines Vacheron Constantin’s expertise in grand complication watches with its mastery of artistic crafts. This double-sided wristwatch comprises 16 complications, essentially astronomical and calendar-related, powered by Calibre 2755 GC16 with minute repeater and tourbillon. A technical feat housed in an 18K 5N gold case whose middle is sculpted in bas-relief. In tribute to the Roman god of vines and wine, this “Bacchus” watch finds another source of inspiration in Johannes Kepler, resulting in a captivating association between mythology and astronomy.
The 18K 5N pink gold case of this Les Cabinotiers timepiece features a decoration composed of vine leaves interspersed with bunches of ruby grapes. The engraver’s work is complemented by that of the gem-setter on the outside of the case in giving life to figurative motifs, making this watch a piece of fine craftsmanship.
The case decoration continues on the bezel and case-back with a hand engraving depicting vine leaves. The difficulty implied by this intaglio engraving lies in the absence of a border or contour line. Hollowed out across the entire width of the bezel, the garland thus stands alone thanks to the metronomic regularity of the motif. This latter aspect is picked up on the two fastening options – folding clasp and pin buckle.
To create the movement of this highly complicated watch, Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers took the Tour de l’Île as a reference, a timepiece presented in 2005 as a tribute to 250 years of watchmaking expertise cultivated by the Geneva-based Manufacture. In the same spirit, the Les Cabinotiers – Bacchus timepiece combines 16 complications, making it one of the most complex watches produced by the Maison. Its manual winding Calibre 2755 GC16 is equipped with a tourbillon regulator to compensate for the effects of the earth’s gravity on the mechanism.
Featuring a cage shaped like Vacheron Constantin’s signature Maltese cross emblem, the tourbillon completes one full rotation per minute, thus serving as a small seconds indicator. This watch also incorporates a minute repeater chiming the hours, quarters and minutes on demand. To avoid unnecessary noise as well as wear and tear on the mechanism, the striking of the gongs is equipped with an ingenious centripetal flying strike regulator. This perfectly silent device regulates the duration of the musical sequences so as to obtain clear, distinct and regular sounds.
The calendar and astronomical functions play a starring role on both sides of the watch. On the front, where the mechanical ballet of the tourbillon can be admired at 6 o’clock, the perpetual calendar indications are displayed on three counters. Positioned in the upper part of the dial, they respectively show the date, day and month.
Designed to keep track of the Gregorian calendar’s vagaries without any need for adjustment until 2100, this horological complication is further enhanced by the indication of the leap-year cycle. The latter appears in a small aperture next to the hand indicating the torque of the minute repeater mechanism between 1 and 2 o’clock. This striking mechanism power reserve is matched by an indication of the movement power reserve, which can be read by means of a serpentine pointer coaxial with the day of the week hand.
The complex mechanics of this piece also provide an astronomical reading of time representing a tribute to Johannes Kepler (1571-1630), regarded as one of the founders of modern astronomy for having discovered the laws of planetary motion, in perfect agreement with Copernicus’ heliocentric hypotheses. The first astronomical functions thus appear on this same opaline champagne-coloured dial, starting with the equation of time positioned between 10 and 11 o’clock.
As the Earth’s path around the Sun is not circular but elliptical, and since the Earth’s axis is inclined at 24° to the plane of its orbit, the time between two zenith passages of the Sun is not the same throughout the year. This difference between the (true) solar day and the (average) 24-hour civil day ranges from -16 to +14 minutes depending on the time of year and coincides only four times a year. Called the equation of time, or time correction in astronomical language, this differential is displayed by a dedicated pointer, while sunrise and sunset times – adjusted according to a reference city – appear at the bottom of the dial.
The sidereal time display finds its place the back of the watch in the shape of a rotating disc depicting the celestial vault with its constellations observable from the Northern hemisphere. Taking a fixed star in the sky as a reference point, the time required for the Earth to complete a full 360° rotation, or sidereal day, is exactly 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds.
Since the Earth is both spinning on its axis and revolving around the Sun, it takes about four minutes less than a calendar day to return to its point of origin relative to a given star. On this model, the “celestial” disc thus performs a complete rotation according to sidereal time with the time displayed on the periphery, opposite the date appearing on the periphery of the mobile disc.
This same date is read off by a large central hand moving over the fixed outer flange bearing a scale graduated in five-day increments. This hand also indicates the sign of the zodiac, the season and the four dates corresponding to the solstices and equinoxes. Finally, the small central hand indicates the age of the moon.
Comprising 839 parts and measuring a total 33.90 mm in diameter and 12.15 mm thick, this extremely complex movement is endowed with a 58-hour power reserve. It displays all its functions in a perfectly legible manner on both sides. The balance oscillates at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz).
The 47 mm-diameter 18K 5N pink gold case has been specifically designed to provide the best possible sound quality for the minute repeater.
Technical details
Model: Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus
Reference 9700C/000R-B755
Movement
Caliber 2755 GC16
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
33.90 mm diameter, 12.15 mm thick
Approximately 58 hours of power reserve
2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
839 components
42 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Indications
Front side: Hours, minutes, small second at 6 o’clock on tourbillon carriage – Minute repeater – Tourbillon – Perpetual calendar (date, day of the week, month, leap year) – Power reserve indication – Equation of time – Sunrise time – Sunset time – Alarm torque indication
Back side: Sky chart – Age and phases of the moon – Sidereal hours and minutes – Seasons, zodiac signs
Crowns and pushers
Setting Hours and minutes adjustment: winding crown (2 positions)
Moon phase adjustment: correction push-piece on the case
Perpetual calendar adjustment: two correction push-pieces on the case
Sky chart adjustment: with crown and screwed-down push-piece
Case
18K 5N pink gold with bezel and back side hand-engraved with “vine leaves” and case band hand-engraved with “vine leaves” and gem-set with 113 rubies for a total weight of approximately 1.84 cts representing bunch of grapes
47 mm diameter, 19.10 mm thick
Strap
Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Buckle: 18K 5N pink gold folding clasp and buckle hand-engraved with a “vine leaves” pattern; Half Maltese cross-shaped
Box
Les Cabinotiers Prestige box
Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen and a magnifying glass
A winder box
Edition
Single-piece edition
« Les Cabinotiers », « Pièce unique », « AC » hallmark engraved on caseback
During Dubai Watch Week 2021, De Bethune launched a new DB25QP Perpetual Calendar watch with a green guilloche dial and a new titanium case featuring integrated lugs.
The De Bethune perpetual calendar is tinged with poetry and combines the finesse of watchmaking with the precision mechanics of the Manufacture by bringing together moon phase, starry sky and perpetual calendar in an exceptional timepiece. Inspired by the drum, the round case with a diameter of 44 mm, with its fine and resolutely classic lines, is subtly enhanced by the hollowed-out horns characteristic of the DB25 collection.
The finesse of the decorations and the purity of the green hand-guilloche dial, radiating in 12 sectors, underline the legibility of the dial, which is built up by the assembly of ring-shaped appliques delimiting the sub-dials and the hour circle. At 12 o’clock, a sphere in palladium and black oxidized zirconium sits in a sky set with gold stars, also incorporating a leap year indicator in a gold pastille in the starry sky at 12 o’clock. The date can be read on a dial located at 6 o’clock, while the windows indicating the day of the week and the month are located at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively.
The round case of the new DB25QP retains the harmonious lines that contributed to the success of the original DB25QP but is offered for the first time in titanium. This further enhances the practicality and comfort of this timepiece.
Developed in the Manufacture’s Haute Horlogerie workshops in Sainte Croix in the Swiss Jura, the automatic DB2324 caliber benefits from De Bethune’s research and technology know how. It incorporates a perpetual calendar, a spherical moon indicating the moon phases with a precision of 1 day/122 years, a self-regulating double barrel, a triple pare-chute system and a titanium/grey gold balance.
A sapphire caseback allows one to admire the complexity of the movement as well as the refinement of its finishing: ¾ platinum bridge with star decoration, sandblasted and hand-colored, blued titanium balance bridge and oscillating weight arm, hand-colored white gold weight, hand-beveled and mirror-polished steels.
This new perpetual calendar comes with a green textile strap with a polished titanium buckle and pin. A second leather strap accompanies it. A perfect illustration of the technical and aesthetic know-how of the Manufacture, this new reference DB25QPATIS4 is destined to replace all the DB25QPs previously presented in the current De Bethune collection.
Frederique Constant has expanded its Highlife series by presenting two stunning and exclusive Highlife Emerald limited editions: the Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture (limited to 30 pieces) and the Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture (limited to 222 pieces).
Unveiled at the Dubai Watch Week 2021, these special edition watches feature emerald green dials. A tone dear to Frederique Constant, the green colour is associated with nature, representing the source of life.
In 1999, Frederique Constant introduced the very first Highlife watches. In 2020, the Maison revived the iconic design and reintroduced the collection with resolutely modern curves rooted in the 21st century, thus adding a new dimension to the definition of accessible luxury according to Frederique Constant. The new design translates into both taut and flexible lines, the modernity of a creation that denies nothing of its craftsmanship, balance or style.
One of the key hallmarks of Highlife stamped timepieces is an integrated and interchangeable strap, offering a seamless integration with the watch case. This innovative system makes it possible to change the strap at will and without the need for tools.
Dedicated to frequent travelers, the Frederique Constant Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture watch boasts a globe engraved dial, combined to a contemporary 41 mm steel case.
The highly contemporary design of the steel case and dial with globe engraving is an ode to travel. The FC-718 manufacture calibre is designed exactly for that. The self-winding mechanical movement has a power reserve of 38 hours. It is visible through the case back, water-resistant up to 50 metres. The movement incorporates typical Genevan finishes like perlage and circular Côtes de Genève.
Highly user-friendly, its single crown can be used to set any function: hours, minutes, the date at 6 o’clock and the 24 cities disc that represents 24 time zones on Earth, itself engraved in the centre of the piece. There is no day / night indicator required; the inner disc has been engraved with 12 hours on the light area (cities where it is daytime) and 12 hours on the blue area (those where it is night-time).
Green is the dominant colour of the Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture Limited Edition. It takes up the whole centre of the dial, as well as the date counter, for which Frederique Constant has used its unique sunray guilloché for improved legibility. This is skimmed by three central rhodium-plated hands, including luminescent hour and minute hands that are easy to read, even when travelling to the other side of the world at night.
The Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture is delivered with an integrated and interchangeable steel bracelet, which can be switched to an extra black rubber strap on a split second, to complement the urban feel of the watch.
Presented in a steel case, this bold timepiece incorporates two most prestigious horological mechanisms: Tourbillon and Perpetual Calendar.
Within the 41 mm case with the integrated strap characteristic of the Highlife collection, Frederique Constant has organised its complications into four segments.
The brand has arranged both day and date displays horizontally, so as to be read in a natural and intuitive way in a fraction of a second. Brought together in a single counter at 12 o’clock are the month (large hand) and leap year indication (small hand). Adding the finishing touch to this perfectly mastered aesthetic composition, the tourbillon balances it out at 6 o’clock, counting down the seconds with its central hand.
The Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture is dominated by the green colour. On both sides of the complications on display, Frederique Constant has opted for a face without a dial. This allows you to see the inner workings of the FC-975 Manufacture calibre, alongside the delicate blued screws, perlage and subtle Côtes de Genève.
It also improves the contrast between the rhodium-plated movement and the perpetual calendar display. To ensure it is easy to read, the Manufacture has also been careful to give them recessed counters on two levels, so as to better capture the light.
The FC-975 caliber is designed, produced and assembled in very limited numbers at the Geneva-based manufacture. For greater precision (an essential characteristic of the tourbillon), Frederique Constant has equipped it with a silicone escapement – both the escape wheel and the lever.
Limited to 30 timepieces, this exclusive model is mounted on a three-link polished and satin-brushed steel bracelet, and delivered alongside a second rubber strap.
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day, month, leap year
Movement
FC-975 caliber, automatic, tourbillon, perpetual calendar
Perlage, drafted marks and Côtes de Genève decorations
38-hour power reserve, 33 jewels, 28’800 alt/h
Silicon escapement wheel and anchor
Case
Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-part case
Diameter of 41 mm
Height of 12.65 mm
Front convex sapphire crystal
See-through case back
Water-resistant up to 5 ATM
Dial
Skeleton dial
Green outer ring with white printed second markers
Hand-polished silvered color with white luminous treatment hour and minute hands
Green day counter at 9 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hand
Green month and year counter at 12 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hands
Green date counter at 3 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hand
Open tourbillon’s cage at 6 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color second hand
Strap
Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-link bracelet
Including an additional dark green rubber strap
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date by hand, worldtimer
Movement
FC-718 Manufacture caliber, automatic with all functions adjustable by the crown
Perlage& circular Côtes de Genève decoration on the movement
26 jewels, 38-hour power reserve, 28’800 alt/h
Case
Brushed and polished stainless steel3-part case
Diameter of 41 mm
Height of 12.90 mm
Front convex sapphire crystal
See-through case back
Water-resistant up to 5 ATM
Dial
Green dial, globe decoration and silver color applied indexes with white luminous treatment
24H disc with day (white) & night (green) indication
City disc with 24 cities
Hand-polished silver color with white luminous treatment hour and minute hands
Hand-polished silver color second hand
Date counter at 6 o’clock with hand-polished silver color hand
Strap
Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-link bracelet
Including an additional dark green rubber strap
Along the Eastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula are the United Arab Emirates, seven emirates united under one federation since December 2nd, 1971. In 2021, the UAE are celebrating their 50th anniversary.
As part of the Golden Jubilee celebrations, Frederique Constant and the famous watch retailer Ahmed Seddiqi&Sons announced an incredible Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture “Year of the Fiftieth” limited-edition of 50 timepieces.
A unique model within the Highlife collection and a first for Frederique Constant, this timepiece is fully made of titanium, from the case down to the integrated bracelet – and will be available for purchase at Seddiqi& Sons exclusively.
For this model, Frederique Constant and Ahmed Seddiqi& Sons opted for an eye-catching turquoise blue dial, an unprecedented colour in the Maison’s history. Contrasting with dark grey subdials, the famous ‘Yas’ blue colour adorning the Circuit’s run off areas was chosen as the shade most closely resembling the seas of the Gulf. Called pantone 321, the colour is unique to Yas Marina Circuit.
In the middle of the dial proudly stands the globe decoration, emblem of the Highlife timepieces, whose legibility is ensured by the sapphire crystal’s anti-reflective treatment on both sides. Every finishing touch is enhanced by amazing reflections – like the 41 mm case, with its alternating polished and satin finished surfaces. . Keeping with the sleekness of design, all of the perpetual calendar’s correctors have been integrated, lending emphasis to the lone crown at 3 o’clock.
As a perpetual calendar timepiece, the Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture “Year of the Fiftieth” is a testament to the savoir-faire that Frederique Constant has patiently amassed over the past 30 years. The Brand is one of very few to be able to design, produce, assemble and test its own watches internally, within its own Geneva-based manufacture. From the design to the final quality control, each and every step involved in making this is carried out in-house.
Powered by the Manufacture FC-775 self-winding mechanical movement, the Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture “Year of the Fiftieth” beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph and has a power reserve of 38 hours. For collectors and connoisseurs of fine watchmaking, the movement, featuring intricate perlage and Côtes de Genève decoration, can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback.
To celebrate this historic 50-years milestone, Frederique Constant and Seddiqi& Sons have engraved the oscillating weight with the “Year of the Fiftieth UAE” inscription.
In addition to the standard titanium bracelet, the watch will be provided with an extra dark grey rubber strap.
Technical details
Model: Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture “Year of the Fiftieth”
Reference: FC-775LNG4NH1B
Functions
Hours, minutes, moonphase, date, day, month, leap year
Movement
FC-775 Manufacture caliber, automatic, perpetual calendar
Perlage & circular Côtes de Genève decoration
38-hour power reserve, 26 jewels, 28’800 alt/h
“Year of the Fiftieth UAE” engraving on the rotor
Case
Polished titanium3-part case
Diameter of 41mm
Thickness of 12.65 mm
Convex sapphire crystal with anti-glare coating on both sides
See-through case back
Water-resistant up to 5 ATM
Dial
Turquoise blue dial with dark grey subdial, globe decoration and silver color applied indexes with white luminous treatment
Hand-polished silver color hour & minute hands with white luminous treatment
Bracelet
Titanium bracelet
Including an extra dark grey rubber strap
Glashütte Original presents new limited-edition Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar watch with a rose opaline dial and a dark blue leather strap. Equipped with a hand-crafted and finely finished automatic calibre 36-12 from the renowned Saxon manufactory, this timepiece will be issued in a limited edition of only 100 pieces.
The galvanic rose opaline dial is crafted and decorated in an elaborate process with numerous individual steps. Its silken hue contrasts splendidly with the hand-mounted blue hour appliques, which in this case consist exclusively of Roman numerals. The deep blue hue is taken up by the finely stepped calendar windows and moon phase display, and by the elegant poire hands and Louisiana alligator leather strap.
All calendar indications are precisely tailored to suit the various lengths of the months, lending the watch a new look day after day. Thanks to its astonishing mechanical memory, Glashütte Original‘s Perpetual Calendar won’t need to be reset until the year 2100.
Maintaining the much acclaimed traditions of the Glashütte watchmaking, the Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar combines filigree decoration, sophisticated mechanics and robust workmanship.
The transparent sapphire crystal case back offers a clear view of the highly refined finishing of the automatic movement, its skeletonized rotor and skeletonized Double-G, which renders the rotor even more delicate. The additional typical Glashütte decorations and construction features include: the characteristic three-quarter plate with refined Glashütte stripe finish, the hand-engraved balance cock, delicate perlage finishing, blued screws and fine decorative finishes on the wheels and rotor track.
A silicon balance spring guarantees exceptional precision, while a single spring barrel offers a power reserve of more than 100 hours. Robust stability is assured thanks to an innovative bayonet mounting, which secures the movement in the case. The handy universal corrector allows the wearer to set the day, date and month at the same time.
All models in the Senator Excellence series come with an exclusive certificate confirming that each and every Senator Excellence has undergone 24 days of comprehensive testing in the Saxon manufactory. A special engraving on the case back guarantees the quality of each watch. An exclusive online portal also gives owners access to detailed test scores for their watch along with information regarding the individual test procedures.
The new Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar in rose opaline and dark blue is limited to 100 pieces and available from end of October exclusively at Glashütte Original Boutiques and authorised dealers.
Technical details
Model name: Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar – Limited Edition
Launch year: 2021
Movement
Automatic winding Calibre 36-12, finely finished
Frequency: 28,800 A/h, corresponds to 4 Hz
Running time: 100 hours
Functions
Hour, minute, second, second stop, Perpetual Calendar with day of the week, month and leap year display, moon phase,
Panorama Date
Case
Stainless steel
Dimensions: Diameter: 42 mm, height: 12.8 mm
Dial
Galvanized rose opalin with blue appliques
Hands: Pear shape, blued
Front glass: Sapphire crystal, antireflective on both sides
Case back: Sapphire crystal
Strap
Blue Louisiana Alligator leather strap, stainless steel bracelet
MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO is the sportier version of the award-winning LM Perpetual Calendar watch created in collaboration with Stephen McDonnell.
Designed to meet the specifications of an outdoor sports watch, this model features a 44mm diameter case and a specially developed monobloc shock-absorbing system known as “FlexRing”. The LM Perpetual EVO was first launched in zirconium with three options of PVD/CVD dial-plate colour, including atomic orange. A grade 5 titanium edition follows in 2021, with a green CVD dial plate. All editions feature a closely-fitted, integrated rubber strap.
Although the 44mm diameter is unchanged from its 2015 iteration, the new EVO case design features a no-bezel construction, with the domed sapphire crystal fused directly to the case. The increased openness of this design highlights the equilibrium between the legibility of LM Perpetual EVO’s calendar indications and the cinematic play of the engine components — surmounted by the iconic MB&F hovering balance wheel.
This expansive new presentation of the LM Perpetual Engine was no simple design reconfiguration. New geometries for the sapphire crystal had to be calculated, achieving the mechanically opposing aims of maintaining structural strength and decreasing its height-to-diameter ratio. Freeing LM Perpetual EVO from the bezel also necessitated the use of a sophisticated thermal bonding system between the sapphire crystal and the case.
The previously circular pushers for adjusting the perpetual calendar have been enlarged into double-sprung oblong actuators, boosting the tactile comfort and ease of adjustment. For the first time in any MB&F creation, the LM Perpetual EVO is rated at 80m of water resistance, enabled by its screw-down crown.
A small, but essential, detail of implementing a screw-down crown is the débrayage of the winding stem, disengaging the crown from the winding mechanism when it is pushed in and tightened, which eliminates the chance of manually over-winding the mainspring barrel.
An additional new element of the LM Perpetual EVO is the FlexRing: an annular dampener fitted between case and movement, providing shock protection along the vertical and lateral axes. Machined from a single block of stainless steel, the dampener imparts exceptional robustness to the timepiece.
Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO was first launched in three variations of 15 pieces each in zirconium with orange CVD dial plate, blue CVD dial plate or black PVD dial plate; and is now available in titanium with a green CVD dial plate.
Technical details
Model: MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO in Titanium
Engine
Fully integrated perpetual calendar developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell, featuring dial-side complication and mechanical processor system architecture with inbuilt safety mechanism. Manual winding with double mainspring barrels. Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement. Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings.
Galvanic black dials with both SLN numerals and hands(except for the leap year and power reserve)
FlexRing: an annular dampener fitted between case and movement, providing shock protection along the vertical and lateral axes.
Screw down crown
Power reserve: 72 hours
Balance frequency: 18,000bph/ 2.5Hz
Number of components: 581
Number of jewels: 41
Functions/indications
Hours, minutes, day, date, month, retrograde leap year and power reserve indicators
Case
Material: Zirconium or Titanium
Dimensions: 44 x 17.5mm
Number of components: 70
Water resistance: 8ATM / 80m / 270 feet
Sapphire crystals
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces
Strap & buckle
Rubber strap with titanium folding buckle
In 2015, MB&F created the LM Perpetual watch in collaboration with Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell. This new reinvention of perpetual calendar has been developed to eliminate the drawbacks of conventional perpetual calendars. Equipped with a spectacular in-house movement, this Legacy Machine has been released in various editions in red gold, platinum, white gold, titanium, and yellow gold.
The Legacy Machine Perpetual was the winner of the Best Calendar Watch Prize at the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) in 2016.
In 2021, a new limited edition of 25 pieces joins the series. Crafted in palladium 950, this new variant features an aquamarine sunray dial varying between shades of pale blue, green and grey. This new Legacy Machine also features the ergonomic corrector pushers first seen on the LM Perpetual EVO editions.
Its fully integrated 581-component calibre boasts an innovative mechanism for calculating the number of days in each month. And it holistically reinterprets the aesthetics of the perpetual calendar by placing the full complication on dial-free display underneath a spectacular suspended balance.
Traditional perpetual calendars have a few drawbacks: dates can skip; they are relatively easy to damage if adjusted while the date is changing; and the complications are usually compromises of modules powered by base movements. The fully integrated movement of Legacy Machine Perpetual has been designed to solve these issues. No more skipping dates or jamming gears, and the adjuster pushers automatically deactivate when the calendar changes.
Traditional perpetual calendar mechanisms use a 31-day month as the default and basically “delete” surplus dates for the months with fewer days – by fast-forwarding through the redundant dates during changeover. A traditional perpetual calendar changing from February 28 to March 1 scrolls quickly through the 29th, 30th and 31st to arrive at the 1st.
The perpetual calendar system of LM Perpetual features a “mechanical processor” instead of the conventional grand levier (big lever) system architecture. The mechanical processor utilises a default 28-day month and adds extra days as required. This means that each month always has the exact number of days required; there is no fast-forwarding or skipping redundant days. And while the leap year can only be set on traditional perpetual calendars by scrolling through up to 47 months, LM Perpetual has a dedicated quickset pusher to adjust the year.
The open dial of LM Perpetual generously reveals the full complication and suspended balance. Using an innovative system developed especially for Legacy Machine Perpetual, the sub-dials appear to “float” above the movement with no visible attachments. The skeletonised sub-dials rest on hidden studs, which is technically impossible with traditional perpetual calendar mechanisms because they would block the movement of the grand levier.
At 12 o’clock and nestled between the elegant arches of the balance, is the off-set dial featuring hour and minute hands. The open-worked dial structure also features day of the week at 3 o’clock, power reserve indicator at 4 o’clock, month at 6 o’clock, retrograde leap year indicator at 7 o’clock, and date at 9 o’clock.
Technical details
Model: Legacy Machine Perpetual in palladium 950 with aquamarine face
Edition
Limited to 25 pieces
Engine
Fully integrated perpetual calendar developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell, featuring dial-side complication and mechanical processor system architecture with inbuilt safety mechanism. Manual winding with double mainspring barrels. Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement. Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings.
Power reserve: 72 hours
Balance frequency: 18,000bph/ 2.5Hz
Number of components: 581
Number of jewels: 41
Functions/indications
Hours, minutes, day, date, month, retrograde leap year and power reserve indicators
Case
Material: Palladium 950
Dimensions: 44 mm x 17.5 mm
Number of components: 69 components
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces
Water resistance: 30 m / 90′ / 3 ATM
Strap
Black, grey, brown or blue hand-stitched alligator strap with gold / platinum / titanium folding buckle matching case material.
Other versions
Platinum 950 version with blue face: limited to 25 pieces
18k red gold version with grey face: limited to 25 pieces
18k white gold version with purple face: limited to 25 pieces
18k white gold version with dark grey face
Grade 5 titanium version with green face: limited to 50 pieces
18k yellow gold version with blue face: limited to 25 pieces
Swiss luxury watch brand IWC Schaffhausen welcomes two new Ceratanium® models to its TOP GUN Pilot’s Watch range. Developed by IWC’s material engineers, Ceratanium® combines the lightness and structural integrity of titanium with a hardness and scratch-resistance similar to ceramic. In addition, this innovative material is also skin-friendly and highly resistant to corrosion.
The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Ceratanium is the first watch from IWC with a Ceratanium® bracelet, which is lighter than steel and very comfortable to wear. The Pilot’s Watch Timezoner TOP GUN Ceratanium is the first TOP GUN model with a Timezoner® complication, allowing the wearer to change between different time zones effortlessly. Both novelties are powered by IWC-manufactured movements from the 52000 and 82000 calibre families.
Advanced performance materials such as ceramics, titanium and Ceratanium® are a signature feature of IWC’s TOP GUN pilot’s watches. They take their name from the legendary Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor Program, a rigorous course used by the US Navy to train its elite pilots in flying and tactical skills.
IWC’s TOP GUN watches are engineered to deliver ultimate performance and can withstand even the extreme strain pilots experience in the cockpit of a supersonic jet.
The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Ceratanium (Ref. IW503604) features a case, crown and, for the first time, a bracelet made of Ceratanium®. As this material is based on a titanium alloy, the bracelet is around 30 percent lighter than a steel bracelet and extremely comfortable to wear.
The black dial with gray numerals enhances the jet-black design. This TOP GUN model is powered by the IWC-manufactured 52615 calibre, visible through the tinted sapphire glass case back. The Pellaton winding system is fitted with components made of virtually wear-free ceramic and builds up a power reserve of seven days in two barrels.
A single nightly switching impulse from the base movement drives the perpetual calendar. Its mechanical program automatically recognizes different month lengths and leap years and will require no correction until 2100.
Another IWC speciality is the specific moon phase display, which depicts the moon as it is seen from the Northern and Southern Hemispheres. It is so precise that it will only deviate by one day after 577.5 years. The annual production of this extraordinary timepiece will be limited to 150 pieces.
The IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner TOP GUN Ceratanium (Ref. IW395505) is the first TOP GUN model with a Timezoner® complication.
The watch can be set to a different time zone by simply pressing down and rotating the bezel. The hour hand, the 24-hour display and the date will move forwards or backwards in one-hour steps.
This also works across the dateline and without losing a single second. The case is made of Ceratanium®, while the city ring is manufactured from ceramic. It contains the names of 24 cities, each one representing one of the international time zones. The numerals are printed in gray on the dial, while the numbers 12, 3, 6 and 9 are coated with a luminescent material.
The jet-black tactical design is complemented with a tinted sapphire glass case back and a black rubber strap with textile inlay.
The IWC-manufactured 82760 calibre uses a Pellaton winding system reinforced with ceramic components to build up a power reserve of 60 hours in the mainspring. The annual production of the IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner TOP GUN Ceratanium will be limited to 500 pieces.
The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Ceratanium and the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner TOP GUN Ceratanium are available now through IWC boutiques, authorized retail partners or online at IWC.com.
In addition, both timepieces are eligible for registration under the My IWC care program and thus benefit from a 6-year extension to the standard 2-year International Limited Warranty.
Technical details
Model: IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Ceratanium, Ref. IW503604
Functions
Power reserve display
Perpetual Calendar with displays for the date, day, month, year in four digits and perpetual moon phase for both Northern and Southern Hemispheres
Small hacking seconds
Movement
IWC-manufactured caliber 52615
Mechanical automatic movement
Pellaton automatic winding system
Frequency: 28,800 vph / 4 Hz
Jewels: 54
Power reserve: 7 days (168 h)
Case
Ceratanium® case
Diameter: 46.2 mm
Height: 15.4 mm
Glass: Sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Screw-in crown
Glass secured against displacement caused by drops in air pressure
See-through sapphire glass back
Water-resistant: 6 bar
Dial
Black dial
Black hands
Bracelet
Ceratanium® bracelet with folding clasp
Model: IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner® Top Gun Ceratanium, Ref. IW395505
Functions
Date display
Central hacking seconds
Timezoner® function for setting another time zone using the rotating bezel
24-hour display for Worldtimer function
Movement
IWC-manufactured caliber 82760
Mechanical automatic movement
Pellaton automatic winding
Frequency: 28,800 vph / 4 Hz
Jewels: 22
Power: reserve 60 h
Case
Ceratanium® case
Ceramic rotating bezel
Diameter: 46 mm
Height: 15.1 mm
Glass: Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Screw-in crown
Glass secured against displacement caused by drops in air pressure
Water-resistance: 6 bar
Dial
Black dial
Black hands
Strap
Black rubber strap with textile inlay and pin buckle
Unveiled during the Patek Philippe “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibition, this grand complication watch with minute repeater and perpetual calendar features a white-gold case with a blue grand feu enamel dial. This new model replaces the Ref. 5374P-001 in platinum with a black grand feu enamel dial.
The Ref. 5374 with a minute repeater and a perpetual calendar was introduced in 2016 in a platinum version with a black grand feu enamel dial. Now, Patek Philippe is offering a new edition in white gold with a blue grand feu enamel dial.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA
The case shape shows the subtle and harmonious interplay of rounds and cambers. The bezel has a concave profile. The same finesse is encountered in the manually satin-finished recesses in the case flank. They contrast beautifully against the polished case segments and against the cabochons that decorate the ends of the lugs.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA
The blue grand feu enamel dial is high-gloss finished, and features applied white-gold Breguet numerals. The displays of the perpetual calendar – day, date, month, and leap year cycle – are placed on slightly enlarged subsidiary dials, complemented with a 24-hour display. The leaf-shaped hands in white gold are filled with a luminous coating for excellent legibility. The moon-phase aperture is executed with the champlevé technique and framed in white gold.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA
This grand complication timepiece houses the self-winding caliber R 27 Q. The minute repeater mechanism strikes on two cathedral gongs, and their extended length of nearly twice the circumference of the movement produces a full, reverberant sound.
The shiny dusk blue alligator strap is secured with a white-gold fold-over clasp. The scope of delivery includes a sapphire-crystal case back and an interchangeable solid back.
Technical details
Model: Patek Philippe Minute Repeater with a Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 5374G-001
Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement
Caliber R 27 Q
Diameter: 28 mm
Height: 6.9 mm
Parts: 467
Bridges: 12
Jewels: 39
Power reserve: min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
Minirotor in 22K gold, unidirectional winding
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Functions
Minute repeater with “cathedral” gongs
Perpetual calendar
Day, date, month, leap year and 24-hour indication by hands
Moon phases
Case
White gold
Interchangeable full back and sapphire-crystal case back
Case is humidity and dust protected only (not water resistant)
Case diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.2 mm
Strap
Alligator leather with scare scales, hand-stitched, shiny dusk blue
Fold-over clasp
About Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 Collection
On the occasion of the “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibitionin June 2021, Patek Philippe launched six exceptional wristwatches featuring artistic decorations such as manual engraving, grand feu cloisonné enamel, grand feu champlevé enamel, grand feu flinqué enamel, manual guilloching and gemsetting.
On the occasion of the “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibition, Patek Philippe released a new iteration of its Ref. 6002R-001 Sky Moon Tourbillon watch featuring a hand-engraved rose-gold case with a brown dial in grand feu champlevé and cloisonné enamel
Debuted in 2001, the Ref. 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon is Patek Philippe’s second most complicated wristwatch. It is one of the grand complications most coveted by collectors and connoisseurs.
From 2013 to 2016, this double-face wristwatch was available in a rare handcrafts version with a white-gold case and a blue enamel dial (reference 6002G-001). It was followed in 2016 by a new version with a black enamel dial (reference 6002G-010).
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA
The new iteration released during “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” combines the warm shimmer of rose gold with brown grand feu enamel. The periphery of the dial, the moon-phase aperture, and the moon of the rotating disc are executed in champlevé enamel. With this technique, the base metal must first be precisely milled out so that individual elements such as the minute scale remain relieved.
Then, the recesses are manually filled with enamel compound. The center of the dial features a decor in grand feu cloisonné enamel that was created with the help of thin flat gold wire. The case, the crowns, the repeater slide, and the fold-over clasp are manually engraved with a motif of volutes and arabesques on all sides. The master engraver invests more than 100 hours of work and considerable patience to complete the process to the highest standards.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA
The Sky Moon Tourbillon combines 12 fascinating complications, including a tourbillon and a minute repeater that strikes on cathedral gongs. The front dial shows a perpetual calendar with a retrograde date, a moon-phase display and the leap year cycle.
The other side shows a celestial chart on which the apparent motion of the moon and the stars can be viewed from the northern hemisphere. To orchestrate the grand ballet of the celestial bodies, Patek Philippe developed a system of three superposed discs that move in different, precisely calculated trajectories.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA
The new Ref. 6002R-001 Sky Moon Tourbillon is delivered with hand-engraved cufflinks in rose gold. It replaces the Ref. 6002G-010 in white gold with a black grand feu enamel dial.
Technical details
Movement
Mechanical manually wound movement
Caliber R TO 27 QR SID LU CL
Third wheel in gold
Flywheel
Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 12.61 mm
Parts: 705
Bridges: 24
Jewels: 55
Power reserve: min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Spiral: Breguet
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Functions
Minute repeater with “cathedral” gongs
Tourbillon
Perpetual Calendar
Display
Front side: Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand. Day, month, leap year in apertures. Hours and minutes of mean solar time. Moon phases
Reverse side: sidereal time, sky chart, phases and orbit of the moon.
Dial
Grand Feu champlevé and cloisonné brown enamel, gold applied Roman numerals
18K gold dial plate
Case
Rose gold
Sapphire-crystal case back
Humidity-and dust-protected only (not water-resistant)
Case diameter: 44 mm. Height: 17.35 mm.
About Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 Collection
On the occasion of the “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibitionin June 2021, Patek Philippe launched six exceptional wristwatches featuring artistic decorations such as manual engraving, grand feu cloisonné enamel, grand feu champlevé enamel, grand feu flinqué enamel, manual guilloching and gemsetting.
Patek Philippe has expanded the Grand Complications family by launching a new version of Reference 5204 Split-Seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar watch.
This multi-complication mechanical timepiece has been available since 2016 in two rose gold versions, one with a silvered opaline dial and chocolate brown alligator strap (reference 5204R-001), the other with an opaline ebony black dial and rose gold Goutte (droplet) bracelet – Reference5204/1R.
Patek Philippe now presents a new variation with a rose gold case and a matching slate gray dial and strap.
Image Credit: PATEK PHILIPPE SA
The entirely hand-polished and sophisticatedly styled rose gold case is equipped with a concave bezel and two-tier lugs.
Despite the complexity of the movement, the indications on the “sunburst” dial stand out for their perfect legibility. The day and month are displayed in two in-line apertures at 12 o’clock. The date hand at 6 o’clock incorporates the moon-phase aperture. Small seconds and the instantaneous 30-minute counter appear on two subdials at 9 and 3 o’clock.
Two small round apertures display the leap-year cycle between 4 and 5 o’clock and the day/night indication between 7 and 8 o’clock – functions enabling accurate adjustment of the calendar. Whether by day or night, reading the time is facilitated by the applied hour-markers and Dauphine-type hands in rose gold, all with luminescent coating.
