The new 7327 Quantième Perpétuel (Perpetual Calendar) from the Breguet Classique collection pays tribute to the perpétuelle watches made by the brand’s eponymous founder.
In the 1780s, Abraham-Louis Breguet enjoyed great success with his perpétuelle watches with an à secousses (moving) oscillating weight enabling the calibre to react to the wearer’s body movements and thus automatically wind the mechanism as they walked. These watches often incorporated a calendar mechanism and it was also on these models that Breguet experimented with his first guilloché silvered dials.
The new Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 by Breguet is simple to use for its wearer yet complex in its realisation. To equip this timepiece, the Maison has opted for the Calibre 502 with an additional calendar mechanism.
Measuring just 4.5 mm in thickness, the 502.3.P Calibre provides a high level of performance despite its thinness. Its barrel is open, contributing to its slenderness while guaranteeing constant, powerful energy. Its gold oscillating weight is off-centred to provide maximum space for the movement’s main components, enabling it to be integrated to a minimum thickness.
This self-winding movement is rhodium-plated, beats at a frequency of 3 Hertz and has a 45-hour power reserve. It is equipped with a flat silicon balance-spring and an inverted straight-line escapement with silicon horns.
This exceptionally decorated perpetual calendar movement can be admired through the sapphire case back. The gold oscillating weight is hand-engraved on a rose engine with a circular barleycorn motif, the bridges are adorned with Côtes de Genève, and the other components are finished with chamfered edges and likewise with Côtes de Genève.
The dial is adorned with a Clous de Paris hobnail pattern. Located between 1 and 2 o’clock, the moon phase has been designed to provide a strong sense of realism, notably thanks to its hand-hammered surface. Its sky is coated with a blue lacquer composed of spangles subtly revealing the stars depending on how the timepiece is turned.
The day, date and year indicators are harmoniously entwined at the base of the dial. A quarter-circle between 10 and 11 o’clock indicates the months via a retrograde hand. The hours and minutes are indicated by the traditional eccentric “moon” tip watch hands in blued steel.
The secret Breguet signature, created by the founder in 1795, appears between 11 and 12 o’clock as well as between 12 and 1 o’clock. Finally, adjustments of the various dial indications are completed from several positions on the 39 mm case. A corrector stylus serves to adjust the day at 4 o’clock; the different moon phases between 4 and 5 o’clock, the date at 6 o’clock and finally the month and the year at 9 o’clock. The time is set via the crown located at 3 o’clock.
Available in 18K white or rose gold, this new timepiece comes with a midnight blue strap for the white gold model and a brown strap for the rose gold version.
Technical details
Movement
Calibre 502.3.P
Self-winding, gold oscillating weight
Escapement: Inverted straight-line lever with silicon horns, flat balance-spring in silicon
Frequency: 3 Hz
Power reserve: 45 hours
The new Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon is a one-of-a-kind dual-faced Grand Complication watch powered by a brand-new in-house movement with 11 complications.
This timepiece houses the new in-house Calibre 2755 TMRCCQP, which offers 11 horological complications including minute repeater, perpetual calendar, precision moon phases, sky chart and tourbillon.
The double moon phase display is the key feature of this grand complication watch in white gold. Often relegated to the background, the moon display is now very much in the forefront on this model, asserting its striking presence both by its colour code and by its size.
It offers a vision of the Earth’s satellite as it appears in the northern and southern hemispheres, the central moon phase indication, already a rarity in the watchmaking world, is therefore characterized by a double display. This complication, already featured in the Les Cabinotiers Tourbillon Armillary Perpetual Calendar – Planetaria watch, makes a strong statement in this highly technical grand complication.
Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication: Front Dial
The front dial features Off-centre mean solar time with hours and minutes, Precision moon phases and age in both hemispheres, Gregorian perpetual calendar with day, month, leap-year indications and instantaneous retrograde date hand.
This highly complex model is distinguished by the legibility of its hourly and astronomical functions.
On the front of the watch, the eye is drawn to the depiction of the moons in the two hemispheres on a disc coaxial with the central hands and shaped like a starry dome. Its deep blue colour makes a striking contrast with the silvery hue of the dial as it performs a complete rotation in 59 days, 12 hours and 45 minutes.
These astronomical moons respect the duration of the synodic months with a discrepancy of only 24 hours every 122 years and 16 days. The age of the Moon is indicated around a periphery scale graduated from 1 to 29½. On this titanium dome graced with rhodium- plated moons on a blue-sky background obtained by physical vapour deposition (PVD). The uneven surface of the moon, like the brilliance of the tiny stars, was achieved by diamond cutting.
The display of the hours and minutes of mean civil time complete with lunar cycles has been slightly off-centred upwards to enable the harmonious integration of calendar indications.
Instead of the traditional pointer-type dials used for perpetual calendar indications, this timepiece features rotating discs. The semi-instantaneous display of the day and the instantaneous display of the month and leap-year appear through apertures, as does the date display. Here again, this display positioned on the upper rim of the dial is shown through a semi-circular window, but with a retrograde hand.
The four-part dial construction and the finishing of each fully matches the technical nature of the model. A 0.35 mm thick sapphire dome is placed on a silver-toned metal baseplate with a sandblasted finish and openworked calendar apertures.
This dome beneath which the moon-phase disc turns is fitted with two ‘masks’ whose smoky appearance is achieved by metallisation. It is held in place by a curved brass ring, satin-brushed with an opaline varnish, which in turn bears the white gold hour-markers.
Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication: Back Dial
The back dial of this Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication watch indicates Tourbillon regulator, Sky chart and Sideral hour display. To ensure the moon phases take priority on the front of the watch, the opening revealing the tourbillon regulator has been placed on the back dial. The one-minute-rotating tourbillon is distinguished by its carriage shaped like Vacheron Constantin’s Maltese cross emblem, with its delicately hand-polished bar.
To reduce the weight to improve performance as well as for aesthetic reasons, the tourbillon components have been skeletonised – notably the fixed wheel which is entirely openworked.
The reverse side also displays sidereal time and constellations against a celestial backdrop. This timepiece integrates the notion of sidereal time – also known as “sidereal hour angle” – enabling astronomers to calculate the meridian of the stars.
Using a fixed star in the sky as a reference point, the time it takes the Earth to complete a full 360° revolution – or sidereal day – is exactly 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds. As the Earth both spins on its axis and revolves around the sun, it takes about four minutes to return to its starting point in relation to the given star.
A fixed dial, bearing a blue dot representing the celestial horizon, is positioned below a movable sapphire crystal engraved with the constellations, while the rim features month markings as well as five-day graduations.
By performing a complete rotation according to sidereal time, this mobile disc gives the exact position of the constellations – delimited by the celestial horizon – at the time when the watch is consulted by pointing it northwards. Sideral time is read off counter- clockwise, facing the current date on the fixed PVD-treated blue outer ring bearing a 24-hour scale along with the cardinal points.
Minute Repeater
To create this particularly complex striking mechanism controlled by a repeater slide housed on the caseband, Vacheron Constantin drew inspiration from the iconic La Tour de l’Île watch.
This double-sided anniversary timepiece produced in a 7-piece edition for the Maison’s 250th anniversary is the most complicated wristwatch ever made with its 16 complications, including a minute repeater with a centripetal strike regulator.
This silent system also found in the Dual moon Grand Complication enables the duration of the musical sequences to be perfectly timed in order to obtain a distinct and harmonious sound of the notes played for the hours, quarters and minutes by the hammers striking two circular gongs.
As an additional feature, the gongs of this repeater have been slightly ovalised to avoid them overlapping the tourbillon and without affecting their crystal-clear sound.
Calibre 2755 TMRCCQP
The Cal. 2755 TMRCCQP is an evolution of the iconic Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2755. This movement has undergone major transformations over the years, notably in the realm of astronomical functions.
The new manual-winding 2755 TMRCCQP calibre is a masterpiece of complexity with its 774 components. Endowed with a 58-hour power reserve, this grand complication beats at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour.
Circular satin-brushed and hand-bevelled, with a Côtes de Genève motif on the rear bridges as well as mirror-polished hammers and strike-regulator bar, this in-house movement has been meticulously finished. To ensure a smoother match with the 46 mm-diameter case in 18K white gold, it has also been entirely rhodium-plated.
Technical details
Model: Vacheron Constantin Grand Complication Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication, Reference 9770C/000G-007C
Movement
Caliber 2755 TMRCC QP
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
33.30 mm diameter, 11.20 mm thick
Approximately 58 hours of power reserve
2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
774 components
50 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Functions
Hours and minutes
Minute repeater
Perpetual calendar with retrograde date with instantaneous hand return, semi-instantaneous day and month & year instantaneous
Precision Moon phases and age of the Moon for North and South hemispheres
Sideral hour indication (24H)
Celestial chart
Tourbillon
Strap
Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Buckle 18K white gold folding clasp
Half Maltese cross-shaped
Box
Les Cabinotiers box
Unique timepiece
« Les Cabinotiers », « Pièce unique », « AC » hallmark engraved on caseback
MB&F presents a new stainless steel version of its award winning LM Perpetual.
Introduced in 2015, the Legacy Machine Perpetual was the winner of the Best Calendar Watch Prize at the GPHG in 2016.
Created in collaboration with independent Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, this revolutionary perpetual calendar watch already exists in red gold, platinum, white gold, titanium, yellow gold and palladium versions. Joining this year, the new LM Perpetual Stainless Steel comes with an elegant salmon-coloured plate.
The steel and salmon combination is a first for MB&F. This new model also features the ergonomic corrector pushers first seen on the LM Perpetual EVO editions.
Equipped with a fully integrated 581-component calibre, LM Perpetual displays day of the week at 3 o’clock, power reserve indicator at 4 o’clock, month at 6 o’clock, retrograde leap year indicator at 7 o’clock, and date at 9 o’clock. The off-centred dial with the hour and minute hands is located at 12 o’clock, between the elegant arches of the balance.
Technical details
Model: MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual In Stainless Steel with Salmon Face
Engine
Fully integrated perpetual calendar developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell, featuring dial-side complication and mechanical processor system architecture with inbuilt safety mechanism. Manual winding with double mainspring barrels. Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement. Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings.
Power reserve: 72 hours
Balance frequency: 18,000bph/ 2.5Hz
Number of components: 581
Number of jewels: 41
Functions/indications
Hours, minutes, day, date, month, retrograde leap year and power reserve indicators
Case
Stainless steel case
Dimensions: 44 mm x 17.5 mm
Number of components: 69 components
Water resistance: 30 m / 3 ATM
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces.
Strap
Brown hand-stitched alligator strap with stainless steel folding buckle
Other versions
Platinum 950 with blue face (limited to 25 pieces)
18k red gold with grey face (limited to 25 pieces)
18k white gold with purple face (limited to 25 pieces)
18k white gold with dark grey face
Grade 5 titanium with green face (limited to 50 pieces)
18k yellow gold with blue face (limited to 25 pieces)
Palladium 950 with aquamarine face (limited to 25 pieces)
Made by H. Moser & Cie., the most legible and easy to set Endeavour Perpetual Calendar watch is now available in a Tantalum case version featuring a blue “Grand Feu” enamel dial with the signature fumé effect.
Tantalum was discovered in 1802 by Swede Anders Gustav Ekeberg. This rare metal is extremely corrosion resistant, malleable yet strong, and fine-looking yet durable. Moser & Cie. is using this metal for this first time in its history.
H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum
The new H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum watch has a 42mm diameter case. The anthracite shade of the case is offset with the distinct colour theme of the enamel dial, featuring vibrant colours and an ultra-contemporary hammered texture.
The perpetual calendar by H. Moser & Cie. has an extremely complex mechanical movement beating inside, yet easy to operate and read. The absence of a subdial and date disc makes it very easy to read.
In the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel, H. Moser & Cie. removed the brand logo and all indices except for those at 12 and 6 o’clock, in order to showcase the full beauty of the “Grand Feu” enamel dial.
Featuring the eye catching complex hammered texture, fume effect and an intense hue christened Abyss Blue, each dial is unique.
At the centre, the small hand indicates the months, while a very large date window at 3 o’clock, with the “Flash Calendar” function providing an instant date change at midnight and a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock displaying the movement’s seven days of autonomy, complete the piece. The time and date are easy to set using the crown, and can be changed at any time of the day.
Visible through the sapphire crystal case-back, the in-house HMC 800 hand-wound mechanical perpetual calendar movement has the ability to store a power reserve up to seven days thanks to the dual barrel system.
Technical details
Model: H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel, reference 1800-2000, tantalum and steel model, Abyss Blue fumé dial, grey kudu leather strap
Case
Tantalum
Diameter: 42.0 mm
Height: 13.1 mm
Curved sapphire crystal
Steel case-back with curved sapphire crystal
Steel crown adorned with an “M”
Dial
Abyss Blue fumé “Grand Feu” enamel with hammered texture
Leaf-shaped hands
Small arrow-shaped centre hand indicating the months
Big date display
Movement
Hand-wound HMC 800 Manufacture calibre
Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15 lignes
Height: 6.3 mm
Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h
32 jewels
Power reserve: minimum 7 days
Hacking seconds
Double barrel
Interchangeable Moser escapement
Original Straumann® hairspring
Pallet fork and escapement wheel made from gold
Movement and components hand-finished and decorated
Functions
Hours and minutes
Perpetual calendar
Big date display
Month indicator via central hand
Seconds dial at 6 o’clock
Power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock
Leap year cycle indicator on movement side
Strap
Hand-stitched grey kudu leather
Steel folding clasp, engraved with the Moser logo
Audemars Piguet has launched a new iteration of its 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin model. Limited to 200 pieces, this new model is the heir to the RD#2 model launched in 2019, and to the developments that the Manufacture has been pursuing for several years in terms of ultra-thin calibres.
Dressed in a titanium case and featuring a smoky blue dial with three black counters, this new version combines aesthetic sophistication with a cutting-edge astronomical complication.
This new edition features titanium on the case, bracelet and bezel, while also incorporating the alternating finishes dear to Audemars Piguet. The screws and chamfers of the bezel, case and bracelet links are polished, while the other surfaces are adorned with a vertical satin-brushed finish.
This reference introduces a new smoky-blue dial developed especially for the model. Light in the centre and black around the rim, the sunburst motif dial with luminous aesthetics facilitates read-off of the calendar indications, month and leap year at 3 o’clock, date at 6 o’clock, day and day/night indicator at 9 o’clock.
Each of these items of information appears in a snailed black counter. The moon phase at 12 o’clock is the only indication whose design has not been modified. The dial remains punctuated by 12 luminescent applied hour-markers and two central hands, likewise luminescent.
On the caseback side, this new Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin features a sapphire crystal offering view of the perpetual calendar movement measuring just 2.89 mm thick.
Audemars Piguet Calibre 5133
Elegantly combining robustness and reliability, the Calibre 5133 comprises 256 parts within a space measuring just 2.9 mm thick and 32 mm in diameter. This automatic movement operates at a frequency of 2.75 Hz (19,800 vph) and delivers a power reserve of at least 40 hours.
Inside, the perpetual calendar functions usually placed on three separate levels are positioned on a single plane. This new technical feat led to the development of two patented innovations: the integration of the end-of-month cam with the date wheel and the association of the month cam with the month wheel. To further reduce thickness, the dial also acts as a bridge.
These major advances have been achieved through a combination of CNC (Computer Numerical Control) and CAD (Computer Aided Design) technologies used by the Manufacture since the 1980s.
Technical details
Model: Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 41 mm
26586TI.OO.1240TI. 01
Functions
Perpetual calendar with day, date, month, astronomical moon, leap year and day/night indications, hours and minutes
Case
Satin-brushed titanium case
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback
Titanium screw-lock crown
Water-resistant to 20 m
Box thickness: 6.2 mm
Movement
Self-winding Calibre 5133
Total diameter: 32 mm (14 ¼ lignes)
Total thickness: 2.9 mm
Number of parts: 256
Number of jewels: 37
Minimum power reserve guaranteed: 40 h
Frequency of balance wheel: 2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations/hour)
Dial
Smoky-blue dial with sunburst pattern, black counters, applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands in white gold with luminescent coating.
Bracelet
Satin-brushed titanium bracelet with titanium AP folding clasp
The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Collection has been enriched with three new timepieces with self-winding Baumatic manufacture movements. They combine the iconic Swiss Maison’s watchmaking expertise, simple and elegant design, and discreet luxury.
The new models in the Clifton Baumatic Collection are precisely three expressions of the Baumatic movement in all its magnitude. This expertise is expressed in the smallest details of this beautifully finished movement.
Bridges with a pearl finish, a sandblasted and snailed baseplate, an oscillating weight that is open-worked with a snailed Côtes de Genève decoration visible through a sapphire crystal case back, and a unique Baume & Mercier engraving delicately sculpt the watchmaking heart of these three pieces.
A case with a round, refined, and simple design coordinates with everything and has an understated and contemporary elegance.
Date Version, COSC-Certified
This timepiece showcases the hours, minutes, seconds, and the date, the latter in an enlarged aperture at 3 o’clock. These functions adorn a black lacquered dial punctuated by a white focal point pattern at its center.
Carefully crafted, the indexes are riveted and rhodium-plated with a slightly elongated trapezoid shape; the hands are faceted, rhodium-plated, and alpha-shaped.
Protected by a domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an anti-glare coating on both sides, the polished/satin-finished stainless steel case is 40 mm in diameter and 11.3 mm thick. The sapphire crystal case back reveals the movement’s delicate finishes and is secured by four screws.
The self-winding Baumatic BM13 manufacture caliber ensures precision, durability, and sturdiness, providing this timepiece with chronometric precision certified by the COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute), a 5-day power reserve (120 hours), protection against everyday magnetic fields, and water resistance to 5 ATM (approximately 50 meters).
This highly adaptable model is mounted on an interchangeable strap equipped with a highly reliable curved spring-bar system that makes it possible to replace the strap with another without using any tools.
In addition to the black alligator leather strap with square scales that features gray stitching on the top and blue stitching on the inside accompanying this watch, it can also be worn with five other patinated calfskin straps.
Day-Date and Moon-Phase Model
The model comes with a gradient blue lacquered dial that opens up at 6 o’clock to show a starry sky that unfolds through a transparent gray sapphire crystal. A polished rhodium-plated black lacquered moon disk illuminates the decor.
The day appears in an aperture at 12 o’clock facing the date, which is set at 6 o’clock in perfect symmetry. Rhodium-plated riveted indexes with a slightly elongated trapezoid shape adorn the dial. The faceted alpha-shaped hands are also rhodium-plated and feature an elegant tip.
Made of polished/satin-finished stainless steel, the round case strikes a balance between a diameter of 42 mm and a thickness of 13.2 mm. The domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an anti-glare coating on both sides ensures that the dial is easy to read. The sapphire crystal case back is secured by four screws.
The high-performance self-winding Baumatic BM14 manufacture movement provides the same advantages as the three-hand version: a 5-day power reserve (120 hours), protection against magnetic fields, and a case that is water-resistant to 5 ATM (approximately 50 meters).
Each of these new timepieces comes with an interchangeable strap. The Clifton Baumatic Day-Date/Moon-Phase model is mounted on a black alligator leather strap with square scales featuring tone-on-tone stitching on the top and blue stitching on the inside.
Perpetual Calendar Model
In the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Perpetual Calendar watch, hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, month, leap year, and moon phases all share a luminous dial with optimal readability. The slender riveted indexes and finesse of the hour, minute, and counter hands with their golden silhouettes contrast harmoniously with the gradient gray lacquered dial. At 6 o’clock, a polished, lacquered gilt moon disk moves through a starry sky.
This beautifully crafted timepiece is set in a round case that is 42 mm in diameter and 12.1 mm thick and made of polished/satin-finished 18K (750/1000) rose gold, as is the crown, which is also polished.
The movement’s refined finishes are revealed through a domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an anti-glare coating on one side. The sapphire crystal case back is secured by six screws and features a gold oscillating weight reflective of its case.
The self-winding Baumatic BM13 manufacture movement with a Dubois-Dépraz 55102 module offers the assurance of high-quality watchmaking expertise, namely a 5-day power reserve (120 hours) and protection against magnetic fields for a case that is water-resistant to 5 ATM (approximately 50 m).
This model is mounted on an interchangeable blue alligator leather strap with square scales featuring tone-on-tone stitching on the top and red stitching on the inside.
The alligator leather strap that comes with each of these Clifton Baumatic models can be replaced by a Patina calfskin strap available in five delicate patina colors: blue, brown, gray, green, and red.
Guarantied for 2 years, Clifton watches equipped with the Baumatic movement benefit from an additional one-year warranty by registering on the Baume & Mercier website.
Movement
Automatic (BAUMATIC BM13 1975 AC2: Baumatic base with Dubois- Dépraz 55102 module)
Bridge with circular-grained decor
Sandblasted plate with snailed decor
Gilt open-worked oscillating weight adorned with “Côtes de Genève” and snailed decors, Baume & Mercier engravings
Power reserve: 5 days (120 hours)
Jewels: 21
Frequency: 4Hz (28,800 vph)
Thickness: 5.8 mm
Functions
H/M/S, date, week day, month, leap year indicator, moon-phase
Case
Round, polished and satin-finished 18K pink gold
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 12.1 mm
Antiglare (2 faces) scratch-resistant domed sapphire crystal
Polished 18K pink gold crown
Sapphire case back secured with 6 screws
Water-resistance: 5 ATM (approx. 50m)
Dial
Gradient grey lacquered
Gilt riveted trapezoid-shaped indexes slightly elongated
Gilt alpha hands and counters hands
Polished gilt moon-phase disc with blue lacquered finish
Strap
Interchangeable blue all square scaled alligator with tone-on-tone stitching on the top and red color on the bottom and bridle points at the buckle
System of curved bars with very reliable lug that allows to change the strap without tools
Polished and satin-finished 18K pink gold pin buckle
Movement
Automatic (BAUMATIC BM14 1975 AC2)
Bridge with circular-grained decor
Sandblasted plate with snailed decor
Open-worked oscillating weight adorned with “Côtes de Genève” and snailed decors, Baume & Mercier engravings
Power reserve: 5 days (120 hours)
Jewels: 21
Frequency: 4Hz (28,800 vph)
Thickness: 5.7 mm
Functions
H/M/S, day-date, moon-phase
Case
Round
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 13.2 mm
Polished and satin-finished stainless steel
Antiglare (2 faces) scratch-resistant domed sapphire crystal
Open case back secured with 4 screws
Water-resistance: 5 ATM (approx. 50m)
Dial
Gradient blue lacquered
Rhodium-plated riveted trapezoid-shaped indexes slightly elongated
Rhodium-plated alpha hands
Grey transparent sapphire aperture at 6 o’clock
Polished rhodium-plated moon-phase disc with black lacquered finish
Strap
Interchangeable black all square scales alligator with tone-on-tone stitching on the top and blue color on the bottom and bridle points at the buckle
System of curved bars with very reliable lug that allows to change the strap without tools
Triple folding buckle with security push-pieces
Movement
Automatic (BAUMATIC BM13 1975A COSC)
Bridge with circular-grained decor
Sandblasted plate with snailed decor
Open-worked oscillating weight adorned with “Côtes de Genève” and snailed decors, Baume & Mercier engravings
Power reserve: 5 days (120 hours)
Jewels: 21
Frequency: 4Hz (28,800 vph)
Thickness: 4.2 mm
Case
Round
Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 11.3 mm
Polished and satin-finished stainless steel
Antiglare (2 faces) scratch-resistant domed sapphire crystal
Sapphire case back secured with 4 screws*
Water-resistance: 5 ATM (approx. 50m)
Dial
Black lacquered with a white crosshair in the center
Riveted trapezoid-shaped rhodium-plated indexes slighty elongated
Rhodium-plated alpha hands
Enlarged date aperture at 3 o’clock
Strap
Interchangeable black all square scales alligator with tone-on-tone stitching on the top and blue color on the bottom and bridle points at the buckle
System of curved bars with very reliable lug that allows to change the strap without tools
Triple folding buckle with security push-pieces
This new 41mm AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar watch comes with a Grand Tapisserie dial immersed with purple tones. This 18-carat white gold watch with a baguette-cut diamond-set bezel will be sold exclusively in Audemars Piguet boutiques.
This latest version of the 41mm Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar features a Grande Tapisserie dial in a distinctive, rare shade of purple.
Each counter is purple and framed with a rhodium-toned circlet, delineating them from the main dial area. The three counters indicate the day, date and month, while an astronomical moon indication is positioned at 6 o’clock.
The white gold Royal Oak hour and minute hands, featuring luminescent coating, collaborate with matching applied hour-markers to indicate the prevailing time. A third hand points to the week number shown on the dial’s inner bezel.
The 18-carat white gold case and matching bracelet are hand-finished with the brand’s emblematic alternation of satin-brushing and polished chamfers. Also available with the packing are two additional rubber straps in black and purple.
32 baguette-cut diamonds (~ 2.85 carats) adorn the bezel. These are punctuated with eight hexagonal polished screws, a design characteristic found on all Royal Oak models since the inaugural model was released in 1972.
The new AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar houses the brand’s selfwinding Calibre 5134, which automatically takes into account the number of days in the month and correctly displays the prevailing date even in leap years.
The watch’s sapphire caseback reveals the refined decorations adorning the movement, which include Côtes de Genève, circular graining, circular satin and polished chamfers. The 22-carat gold open-worked oscillating weight is further embellished with Clous de Paris.
Technical details
Model: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 41 mm
Reference 26598BC.ZZ.1220BC.01
Movement
Selfwinding Calibre 5134
Total diameter: 29 mm (12 ¾lignes)
Total thickness: 4.31 mm
Number of parts: 365
Number of jewels: 38
Minimum power reserve guaranteed: 40 h
Frequency of balance wheel: 2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations/hour)
Functions
Perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours and minutes
Case
18-carat white gold case, 18-carat white gold bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 20m.
Dial
Purple dial with Grande Tapisserie pattern, purple counters with rhodium-toned external zone, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, purple inner bezel.
Bracelet
18-carat white gold bracelet with AP folding clasp
Two additional rubber straps in black and purple
Swiss luxury watch brand IWC Schaffhausen brings the iconic perpetual calendar back to the Portofino collection. With a 40mm diameter case, the Portofino Perpetual Calendar is currently the smallest perpetual calendar watch in IWC’s collections.
It houses the IWC-manufactured 82650 calibre movement, featuring automatic Pellaton winding with ceramic components and a power reserve of 60 hours. In addition to displays for the date, weekday, and month, the calendar features IWC’s perpetual moon phase indication, which will only deviate by one day from the orbit of Earth’s satellite in 577.5 years.
Two versions are available. One features a stainless steel case with a silver-plated dial and rhodium-plated hands and appliques (Ref. IW344601) – marking the first time a Portofino model with a perpetual calendar is presented in this classic and robust case material. The other features an 18-carat 5N gold case, a silver-plated dial and gold-plated hands and appliques (Ref. IW344602).
The calendar information is indicated in three subdials. The date is shown at 3 o’clock, the month at 6 o’clock, and the day of the week at 9 o’clock. The weekday display also contains a small leap year indicator: a red “L” signals a leap year, and the calendar will autonomously insert the 29th of February. Another highlight of this model is the perpetual moon phase display.
Integrated into the month display, it shows the moon against the backdrop of a star-studded night sky. Thanks to a precisely calculated reductionist gear train, it is so precise that it will only deviate by one day from the orbit of Earth’s satellite after 577.5 years.
The IWC-manufactured 82650 calibre drives the calendar module using a single nightly switching impulse. The elaborately finished movement can be admired through the transparent sapphire glass back.
It features the highly efficient automatic winding system developed in the 1950s by IWC’s former technical director, Albert Pellaton. Using the slightest movements of the oscillating weight in both directions, it reliably builds up a power reserve of 60 hours in the mainspring.
Components of the automatic winding system that are subject to high stresses, such as the heart-shaped cam and the clicks, are made of virtually wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic. In addition, the rotor features the signature “Probus Scafusia” medallion in solid gold, which embodies IWC’s uncompromising commitment to technical excellence, quality, and sustainability.
Both versions come with blue straps made of traceable Swiss calf leather.
The Portofino Perpetual Calendar is available immediately through IWC boutiques, authorised retail partners, or online at IWC.com. In addition, the timepieces are eligible for registration under the My IWC care program, benefitting from a 6-year extension to the standard 2-year International Limited Warranty.
Movement
Calibre 82650
Frequency: 28,800 vph / 4 Hz
Jewels: 46
Power reserve: 60 h
Winding: Automatic
Pellaton automatic winding system
Functions
Perpetual calendar with display for the date, day, month, leap year and perpetual moon phase
Central hacking seconds
Case, dial and strap
Ref. IW344601: Stainless steel case, silver-plated dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, blue calfskin strap
Ref. IW344602: 18-carat 5N gold case, silver-plated dial, gold-plated hands and appliques, blue calfskin strap
Glass: Sapphire, arched-edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 12.7 mm
See-through sapphire glass back
Water-resistance: 5 bar
Patek Philippe presents a new version of its split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar watch. This new model has a white-gold case and an olive-green sunburst dial with a black gradation to the periphery.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe
The new Ref. 5204G-001 with its manually wound split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar caliber CHR 29-535 PS Q fully reflects the tradition of Patek Philippe’s most coveted grand complications.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe
This new reference comes with a shiny olive-green calfskin strap with beige contrast seams secured with a white-gold fold-over clasp.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe
The Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar 5204 is also available in rose gold with a slate-gray dial and strap (reference 5204R-011).
Technical details
Model: Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204G-001
Movement
Caliber CHR 29‑535 PS Q
Manually wound mechanical movement
Functions
Split-Seconds chronograph
Instantaneous 30-minute counter
Perpetual calendar: Day, month, leap year and day/night indication displayed in apertures. Date indicated by hand
Moon phases
Small seconds
Dial
Olive green sunburst dial with black-gradient rim
Gold applied baton-style faceted hour markers with luminescent coating
18K gold dial plate
Case
White gold case
Interchangeable solid and sapphire crystal case backs
Water-resistant to 30 m
Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 14.3 mm
Bracelet
Calfskin, hand-stitched, shiny olive green
Fold-over clasp
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