IWC Schaffhausen Portofino Perpetual Calendar

November 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

Swiss luxury watch brand IWC Schaffhausen brings the iconic perpetual calendar back to the Portofino collection. With a 40mm diameter case, the Portofino Perpetual Calendar is currently the smallest perpetual calendar watch in IWC’s collections.

It houses the IWC-manufactured 82650 calibre movement, featuring automatic Pellaton winding with ceramic components and a power reserve of 60 hours. In addition to displays for the date, weekday, and month, the calendar also features IWC’s perpetual moon phase indication, which will only deviate by one day from the orbit of Earth’s satellite in 577.5 years.

Two versions are available. One features a stainless steel case with a silver-plated dial and rhodium-plated hands and appliques (Ref. IW344601) – marking the first time a Portofino model with a perpetual calendar is presented in this classic and robust case material. The other features an 18-carat 5N gold case, a silver-plated dial and gold-plated hands and appliques (Ref. IW344602).

The calendar information is indicated in three subdials. The date is shown at 3 o’clock, the month at 6 o’clock, and the day of the week at 9 o’clock. The weekday display also contains a small leap year indicator: a red “L” signals a leap year, and the calendar will autonomously insert the 29th of February. Another highlight of this model is the perpetual moon phase display.

Integrated into the month display, it shows the moon against the backdrop of a star-studded night sky. Thanks to a precisely calculated reductionist gear train, it is so precise that it will only deviate by one day from the orbit of Earth’s satellite after 577.5 years.

The IWC-manufactured 82650 calibre drives the calendar module using a single nightly switching impulse. The elaborately finished movement can be admired through the transparent sapphire glass back.

It features the highly efficient automatic winding system developed in the 1950s by IWC’s former technical director, Albert Pellaton. Using the slightest movements of the oscillating weight in both directions, it reliably builds up a power reserve of 60 hours in the mainspring.

Components of the automatic winding system that are subject to high stresses, such as the heart-shaped cam and the clicks, are made of virtually wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic. In addition, the rotor features the signature “Probus Scafusia” medallion in solid gold, which embodies IWC’s uncompromising commitment to technical excellence, quality, and sustainability.

Both versions are fitted with blue straps made of traceable Swiss calf leather.

The Portofino Perpetual Calendar is available immediately through IWC boutiques, authorised retail partners, or online at IWC.com. In addition, the timepieces are eligible for registration under the My IWC care program, benefitting from a 6-year extension to the standard 2-year International Limited Warranty.

Technical details

Model: IWC Schaffhausen Portofino Perpetual Calendar Ref. IW344601 / IW344602

Movement
Calibre 82650
Frequency: 28,800 vph / 4 Hz
Jewels: 46
Power reserve: 60 h
Winding: Automatic
Pellaton automatic winding system

Functions
Perpetual calendar with display for the date, day, month, leap year and perpetual moon phase
Central hacking seconds

Case, dial and strap
Ref. IW344601: Stainless steel case, silver-plated dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, blue calfskin strap
Ref. IW344602: 18-carat 5N gold case, silver-plated dial, gold-plated hands and appliques, blue calfskin strap
Glass: Sapphire, arched-edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 12.7 mm
See-through sapphire glass back
Water-resistance: 5 bar

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204G-001

October 18, 2022October 18, 2022 MasterHorologer

Patek Philippe presents a new version of its split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar watch. This new model has a white-gold case and an olive-green sunburst dial with a black gradation to the periphery.

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204G-001 — Image Credit: Patek Philippe

The new Ref. 5204G-001 with its manually wound split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar caliber CHR 29-535 PS Q fully reflects the tradition of Patek Philippe’s most coveted grand complications.

This new reference comes with a shiny olive-green calfskin strap with beige contrast seams secured with a white-gold fold-over clasp.

The Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar 5204 is also available in rose gold with a slate-gray dial and strap (reference 5204R-011).

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204G-001

Movement
Caliber CHR 29‑535 PS Q
Manually wound mechanical movement

Functions
Split-Seconds chronograph
Instantaneous 30-minute counter
Perpetual calendar: Day, month, leap year and day/night indication displayed in apertures. Date indicated by hand
Moon phases
Small seconds

Dial
Olive green sunburst dial with black-gradient rim
Gold applied baton-style faceted hour markers with luminescent coating
18K gold dial plate

Case
White gold case
Interchangeable solid and sapphire crystal case backs
Water-resistant to 30 m
Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 14.3 mm

Bracelet
Calfskin, hand-stitched, shiny olive green
Fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 5373P-001

October 18, 2022 MasterHorologer

Patek Philippe presents a new reinterpretation of its iconic Ref. 5372 Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph.

Especially dedicated to left-handers, the new Patek Philippe Ref. 5373P-001 features a platinum case and modern looks that emphasize its sporty and contemporary style dial. It will be produced in small series.

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 5373P-001 — Image Credit: Patek Philippe

In 2005, Patek Philippe developed a complete series of chronograph movements with and without additional functions. All of them were designed and produced in-house.

The first among them was the manually wound caliber CHR 27-525 PS, the world’s thinnest column-wheel-controlled split-seconds chronograph movement. The caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q launched in 2010 (with the same base movement plus an extremely thin calendar module) has a height of only 7.3 mm. It is the thinnest split-seconds chronograph movement with perpetual calendar ever produced by the manufacture.

Since 2017, this exceptional caliber has been crafted in very small numbers in line with venerable watchmaking traditions. It ticks in a platinum watch with a blue sunburst dial (Ref. 5372P-001) or a rose gilt dial with a vertical satin finish (Ref. 5372P-010).

Inspired by a one-of-a-kind piece sold by Patek Philippe in 1927, a custom-made cushion-shaped split-seconds chronograph (movement No. 198 012), the manufacture has now converted the Ref. 5372 into a new version for left-handers.

The exclusive Ref. 5373P-001 combines a split-seconds chronograph with one of the most elaborate functions – the perpetual calendar which stands emblematically for the grand complications of Patek Philippe.

With a diameter of 38.3 mm, the platinum case has the same size as the Ref. 5372 but its crown (with an integrated chronograph monopusher) is at 9 o’clock and the split-seconds pusher occupies an unusual position at 8 o’clock. It preserves its timeless elegance with the polished, concave bezel that creates the perfect transition to the slightly domed sapphire-crystal back, the recessed and satin-finished case flanks, and the delicately curved strap lugs that merge with the bars almost seamlessly.

The indications (counters and apertures) of the dial are rotated by 180°: the analog date at 12 o’clock, the subsidiary seconds at 3 o’clock, the moon phases at 6 o’clock and the 60-minute counter at 9 o’clock, complemented by the aperture displays for the day of the week and the month as well as the leap year cycle at 10:30 and the day/night indicator at 1:30.

Patek Philippe has also reworked the aesthetic appeal of the dial, endowing it with a charcoal-colored aspect and a vertical satin-finish; it is ingeniously animated by a black gradation to the periphery and the snailed ebony-black subsidiary dials. The indication of the time is based on applied Arabic numerals and faceted Dauphine hour and minute hands in white gold.

The moon-phase display is extremely precise: it deviates from the actual lunar cycle by just one day every 122 years.

For crisp legibility, the three chronograph hands from the center – chronograph and split-seconds hands as well as the 60-minute counter hand at 9 o’clock – are varnished red. The three chronograph commands (Start, Stop, and Reset) are selected with the monopusher in the crown at 9 o’clock. Stopping lap times with the split-seconds hand (rattrapante) is handled with the rectangular pusher at 8 o’clock.

A sapphire-crystal display back (interchangeable with the solid-platinum back delivered with the watch) reveals the fantastic architecture of the caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q movement with its two column wheels that bear two polished caps in the typical Patek Philippe style.

The bridges, decorated with Geneva striping, are carefully chamfered and the edges are polished. A focus is also on the elegance of the form parts and the bridges à l’ancienne. Their acute internal angles can only be completed by hand, which calls for considerable dexterity and many years of experience.

The sporty looks and modern attitude of the dial also applies to the black calfskin strap with an embossed textile texture and red contrast seams. It is secured with a platinum fold-over clasp.

Like all of Patek Philippe’s platinum watches, the new Ref. 5373P-001 features a brilliant cut diamond in the caseband. As an exception for left-handers, it is set at 12 o’clock in this timepiece.

From now on, this watch is the only remaining model with the caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q movement that was formerly available in the Ref. 5372P-001 & 5372P-010; both models have been retired from the collection.

Crafted in 1925-1926 on request for a left-handed customer and sold in 1927, this split-seconds chronograph with a cushion case in 18K yellow gold (34 x 34 mm) and movement No. 198‘012 (diameter 13 lignes) stood out with its unusual arrangement of operating elements and displays.

The case and the movement were rotated by 180° with the chronograph pusher at 9 o’clock instead of 3 o’clock and the split-seconds pusher at 8 o’clock instead 2 o’clock.

The silver dial with black Brequet numerals was reconfigured to reposition the 30-minute chronograph counter from 3 to 9 o’clock and the subsidiary seconds from 9 to 3 o’clock. The uncommon shape of the chronograph and split-seconds hand with counterweights stands out as well.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Ref. 5373P-001 Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar

Movement
Caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q
Manually wound mechanical movement, split-seconds chronograph with column wheel, chronograph and split-seconds hand, 60-minute counter, and subsidiary seconds. Perpetual calendar with day, month, leap-year cycle and day/night indication in apertures, analog date. Moon phases.
Diameter: 27.3 mm
Height: 7.3 mm (base movement: 5.25 mm; perpetual calendar: 2.05 mm)
Number of parts: 476
Number of jewels: 31
Power reserve: Min. 38 hours – max 48 hours (with the chronograph uncoupled)
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Breguet

Crown functions
2-position crown
– Pushed in: To wind the watch
– Pulled out: To set the time and stop the seconds hand

Pushers
• Pusher in the crown at 9 o’clock to start, stop, and reset chronograph
• Pusher at 8 o’clock to start and stop the split-seconds hand

Displays
Center hour and minute hands
Sweep chronograph and split-seconds hands

Subsidiary dials
• Subsidiary seconds at 3 o’clock
• 60-minute counter at 9 o’clock
• Date at 12 o’clock

Display apertures
• Day of week at 3 o’clock
• Month at 9 o’clock
• Day/night at 1:30
• Leap-year cycle at 10:30
• Moon phases at 6 o’clock

Correctors
• Day of week between 2 and 3 o’clock
• Month between 6 and 7 o’clock
• Moon phase between 4 and 5 o’clock
• Date at 6 o’clock
Delivered with correction stylus in ebony and 18K white gold

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
950 platinum
Delivered with solid platinum back and interchangeable sapphire-crystal display back
Water-resistant to 30 meters (3 bar)
Case dimensions: Diameter: 38.3 mm
Height: 12.93 mm
Width between lugs: 20 mm

Dial
Dial in 18K gold, charcoal-colored with black gradation, vertical satin finish
Applied Arabic numerals in 18K white gold
Faceted Dauphine hour and minute hands in 18K white gold
Arrow-shaped chronograph and split-seconds hands in Pfinodal, lacquered red, counterweighted
Snailed ebony-black subsidiary dials:
– Subsidiary seconds at 3 o’clock: White-gold baton hands, lacquered white
– 60-minute hand at 9 o’clock, white-gold baton hand, lacquered red
– Date hand at 12 o’clock: White-gold baton hands, lacquered white

Strap
Black calfskin with embossed textile texture and contrasted red stitching, platinum fold-over clasp

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in Blue Ceramic

October 17, 2022 MasterHorologer

Audemars Piguet has launched a new version of its Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, for the first time entirely crafted in blue ceramic. Its Grande Tapisserie dial and subdials also present electric blue hues.

For the first time, the 41 mm case and bracelet of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar are entirely honed from blue ceramic.

A light material resistant to wear and scratches, ceramic accentuates the slenderness of this timepiece measuring 9.5 mm in thickness.

The Le Brassus artisans have finished each ceramic component with the same detailed and meticulous hand-finishes as they would if they were honed from precious metals: the Manufacture’s trademark alternation of satin-brushing and polished chamfers has been applied by hand with extreme care, resulting in a rich play of light which enhances both the ceramic and the multifaceted architecture of the Royal Oak.

The Manufacture’s artisans have harmonised the blue-toned colours of the Grande Tapisserie dial, subdials and inner bezel, obtained by Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD), to the blue ceramic case and bracelet, conferring the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar a contemporary monochromatic aesthetic.

The 18-carat white gold applied hour-markers and facetted hands, filled with luminescent coating for optimum visibility in the dark, provide a bright contrast.

With its three calendar subdials and moon phase aperture equally distributed on the dial, the watch presents a fine aesthetic balance, while granting optimum legibility of the hours, minutes, day, date, week, month, astronomical moon and leap year indication.

This new model is equipped with the selfwinding Calibre 5134, which testifies to the Manufacture’s savoir-faire in terms of classic complications. This mechanism automatically takes into account the number of days in the month and correctly displays the prevailing date even in leap years. Assuming the watch is kept regularly wound, the date will not require manual adjustment until 2100 to stay in line with the Gregorian calendar.

Launched in 2015, this movement measuring just 4.3 mm in thickness necessitated the re-arrangement of numerous components, including its 22-carat gold openworked oscillating weight.

The bulkiest part of the rotor has been positioned to its outer edge which is recessed within a channel encircling the movement, thereby mitigating height. Likewise, the choice of a suspended barrel has contributed to reducing the movement’s thickness.

The sapphire caseback reveals the traditional Haute Horlogerie decorations adorning Calibre 5134: Côtes de Genève, circular graining, sunray brushing and polished chamfers.

Astronomical watches are deeply rooted in the Vallée de Joux’s watchmaking history, as watchmakers have always drawn inspiration from the region’s clear night sky. Audemars Piguet’s uninterrupted history of astronomical complications started with the two founders’ school pocket watch masterpieces, both completed around 1875.

The one of Jules Louis Audemars (Audemars Piguet Heritage Collection, Inv. 8), which combined a perpetual calendar with a quarter repeater mechanism and the rare independent deadbeat second function, saw several evolutions at the company’s workbenches over the following twenty years. Yet, during the company’s first two decades, calendar complications accounted for less than 10% of its total production.

Audemars Piguet’s first full calendar wristwatch was put into production in 1921 and sold three years later to the renowned retailer Gübelin.

From 1921 to 1970, 188 full calendar wristwatches were produced – a small part of the Manufacture’s total production during these years. In 1955, the company released the world’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch with leap year indication, 9 examples of which were created between 1955 and 1957.

The brand broke another record in 1978 at the height of the quartz crisis when it released the world’s thinnest selfwinding perpetual calendar wristwatch of its time. Conceived in secret by three devoted watchmakers, the ground-breaking perpetual calendar wristwatch achieved its extra-thinness (3.95 mm) by using the ultra-thin Calibre 2120, launched in 1967, as a base.

A total of 7,219 perpetual calendar wristwatches fitted with this calibre were put into production in the following 15 years. The success of Calibre 2120/2800 ushered in a new era of growth for Audemars Piguet and paved the way for the revival of classical complications. This calibre notably equipped many Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar models as early as 1984.

Launched in 2015, Calibre 5134 adapted the perpetual calendar movement to a larger Royal Oak 41 mm case diameter (Model 26574), while retaining a thin profile with its 4.3 mm in thickness. This calibre has powered numerous perpetual calendar wristwatches across the Manufacture’s collection ever since.

In 2018, the Manufacture opened yet another chapter in its history of perpetual calendar timepieces with the advent ofthe revolutionary 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, known as RD#2 – the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch upon release.

This 6.3mm-thick watch houses Calibre 5133, a newly engineered ultra-thin movement measuring a mere 2.89 mm in height, heralding yet another generation of astronomical watches.

Technical details

Model: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar/ 41 mm
Reference 26579CS.OO.1225CS.01

Movement
Self-winding Calibre 5134
Total diameter: 29 mm (12¾lignes)
Total thickness: 4.3 mm
Number of parts: 374
Number of jewels: 38
Minimum power reserve guaranteed: 40 h
Frequency of balance wheel: 2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations/hour)

Functions
Perpetual calendar with day, date, week, month, astronomical moon and leap year indications, hours and minutes

Case
Blue ceramic case and screw-locked crown
Case diameter: 41mm
Case thickness: 9.5 mm
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal and titanium caseback
Water-resistant to 20 m

Dial
Blue dial with Grande Tapisserie pattern, blue subdials and inner bezel, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.

Bracelet
Blue ceramic bracelet with titanium AP folding clasp

Habring² Chrono Felix Perpetual with Salmon Dial

September 28, 2022 MasterHorologer

The Habring² manufactory in Carinthia, Austria presents Chrono Felix Perpetual, a petit-sized wristwatch with perpetual calendar and a single button chronograph.

The Chrono Felix Perpetual is smaller than the iconic Habring² Perpetual Doppel, which is the double chronograph with perpetual calendar. The 38.5mm case of Chrono Felix Perpetual houses the Habring² in-house calibre A11CP.

This manual-wound mechanical movement incorporates a perpetual calendar module made by the famous Swiss manufactory Dubois Depraz from the Vallée de Joux.

Inspired by the iconic ETA 7750 chronograph movement, Habring² A11CP is a finely finished and decorated calibre with a 45 hour power reserve.

This Habring² Chrono-Felix Perpetual model has a salmon colored dial. The chronograph minute counter comes through the moon display and counts a maximum of 30 minutes.

The date, day of the week and the moon phase are displayed, as well as a leap year. Date, month and moon phase can be adjusted via three correctors. The fourth corrector is dispensed with because the chrono pusher also needs its “workplace”. The day of the week is simply corrected via the hands.

Technical details

Model: Habring² Chrono-Felix Perpetual

Movement
Habring² A11CP Calibre
Diameter 30 mm, height 7.3 mm
28,800 half oscillations per hour (4Hz)
Manually wound
Fine adjustment via tangential screw
Amagnetic escapement with a Carl Haas balance spring in chronometer quality
KIF shockproof pursuant to DIN and NIHS
21 jewels
Power reserve: approx. 45 hours
Elaborately refined by hand with polished bevels, decorative grinding, perlage, etc

Functions
Indication of hours and minutes
Indication of day, date, month, leap year and moon phase
Monopusher chronograph with 30 minute counter at 12h

Case
Stainless steel watchcase made of three parts
38.5 mm diameter, 12 mm high
Water-protected equivalent 30 meter depth
Domed sapphire crystal coated with anti-glare on both sides
Solid double sealed stainless steel crown, sapphire crystal back
Consecutive serial number between the lugs at 6h

Dial
Galvanized metal with rhodiated numerals and black print

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar Titanium 40mm (DB25sQP)

August 31, 2022 MasterHorologer

De Bethune expands its perpetual calendar collection by releasing DB25sQP, a new model with a two-tone silver and blue dial, integrated lugs and a new 40mm titanium case.

Originally launched in 2011, the De Bethune DB25QP combines the perpetual calendar mechanism with the most romantic watchmaking complication – the moon phase.

Inspired by the shape of drums, the 40 mm-diameter round case with its slender and resolutely classic lines, is subtly enhanced by the open-worked lugs characteristic of the DB25 collection.

The two-tone hand-guilloché dial features a pattern radiating across 12 sectors. The perfect legibility has been achieved by the assembly of annular blue appliques, with silver-toned raised transfers and Roman numerals, marking off the subdials and the chapter ring.

At 12 o’clock, a palladium and blued steel sphere is set against a sky dotted with pink gold stars, also incorporating a leap-year indicator in a gold disc. The date can be read on a dial at 6 o’clock, while the apertures displaying the day of the week and the month are respectively located at 9 and 3 o’clock.

The round case of the new De Bethune DB25sQP watch retains the harmonious lines that contributed to the success of the original DB25QP but comes in titanium. Its integrated, open-worked and curved lugs further bring out the practical and pleasant wearing of this classically inspired watch.

This perpetual calendar is equipped with the Calibre DB2324V2, which is an improved version of the De Bethune DB2324 movement.

Entirely designed and developed by Denis Flageollet’s team in the Manufacture’s Haute Horlogerie workshops in Sainte Croix (Swiss Jura), the self-winding Calibre DB2324V2 offers a 5- day power reserve.

It incorporates a perpetual calendar, a spherical moon indicating the moon phases with a precision corresponding to 1 day/122 years, a self-regulating double barrel, a triple pare-chute system and a titanium/white gold balance.

Visible on the back of the watch, the balance is made of titanium and features the latest advances including an adjusted diameter and small white gold weights placed around the rims endowing it with a remarkable quality of inertia, reliability and regulation.

This model is equipped with the famous De Bethune balance spring. The Manufacture has opted to maintain its centre of gravity exactly in the centre by using a flat curve affixed to the outside of the balance spring.

Differences in the thickness of the blade add to the almost perfect precision of its concentric development. Its many advantages notably include reduced thickness, improved concentricity quality, finer adjustment of the index assembly system as well as no need for its pins, as the shape of the curve even acts as a shock absorber in case of impacts. The escape-wheel is made of silicon for the lightness of the material and also to increase the power of the calibre.

Visible through the sapphire caseback, the movement is powered by a titanium and platinum oscillating weight. The transparent case-back also offers the view of its finishes: a three-quarter platinum bridge with sandblasted and hand-coloured starry sky decoration; a blued titanium balance bridge and oscillating weight arm; a hand-coloured white gold oscillating weight; as well as hand-bevelled and hand-polished steel parts.

The De Bethune Perpetual Calendar Reference DB25sQP is fitted with a leather strap secured by a polished titanium buckle and accompanied by a second grey fabric strap.

This new timepiece will be limited to a single production run of 15 units per year.

Technical details

Model: De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar
Reference: DB25sQPATIS13

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Spherical moon phase indication and leap-year indication at 12 o’clock, Perpetual calendar indicating the month at 3 o’clock, the date at 6 o’clock and the day of the week at 9 o’clock

Movement
Calibre DB2324V2
Type: Mechanical self-winding movement
Adjustment: Winding, setting the date and the time by means of the crown (3 positions)
Month, day of the week and spherical moon phase adjustment via correctors
Number of parts: 423
Jewelling: 48 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Titanium and white gold balance wheel – De Bethune Innovation (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Spherical moon phase indication accurate to a degree of one lunar day every 122 years – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Optimized oscillating weight in titanium and platinum
Oscillating weight shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2006)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
¾ plate with starry decor, sandblasted and snailed by hand
Balance bridge and oscillating weight arms in blued titanium
White gold oscillating weight hand snailed
Hand-polished, chamfered steel parts

Dial
Bicolor silver and blue hand-guilloché, with 12 radiating sectors
De Bethune star-studded sky in blued titanium, inlaid with rose gold stars
Curved hour, date and moon phase rings with silver relief Roman numerals
Hands curved, in hand mirror-polished steel
Perpetual calendar apertures indicating the day of the week at 9 o’clock and the month at 3 o’clock on anthracite discs with silver decal
Sub dial at 6 o’clock indicating the day of the month
Leap year indicated by a gold pastille appearing in the starry sky at 12 o’clock
Spherical moon phase indication in palladium and blued steel with an accuracy of one lunar day every 122 years at 12 o’clock – De Bethune Patent (2004)

Case
Material: Grade 5 titanium
Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 11.3 mm
Lugs: Integrated, hollowed lugs
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Open back in polished titanium and sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in polished titanium

IWC Schaffhausen Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition “Toto Wolff X Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One™ Team”, Ref. IW503607

July 1, 2022 MasterHorologer

Ahead of the British Grand Prix™ at Silverstone, Swiss luxury watch brand IWC Schaffhausen has announced the auction of the last Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition “Toto Wolff x Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One™ Team.”

Limited to only 100 pieces, this exclusive Big Pilot’s Watch recognizes the extraordinary career and achievements thus far of Toto Wolff, Team Principal & CEO of the Mercedes- AMG PETRONAS Formula One™ Team, while also highlighting his longstanding collaboration and relationship with IWC.

Over the years, Toto Wolff has been seen wearing several IWC watches and prototypes during memorable moments, on and off the racetrack. The watch numbered 50 out of 100 – the last available – will be auctioned by international auction house Bonhams, with the proceeds going to Ignite, a joint charitable initiative operated by the Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS F1™ Team and Sir Lewis Hamilton to support greater diversity and inclusion in motorsport.

In 2013, the Austrian entrepreneur and former racing driver Toto Wolff became a shareholder and executive director of the Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS F1™ Team. During his time as the Team Principal & CEO, the team has won eight consecutive constructors’ titles between 2014 and 2021.

With the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition “Toto Wolff x Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One™ Team”, Wolff was finally honoured with an IWC watch that carries his name.

The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition “Toto Wolff x Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One™ Team” (Ref. IW503607) features a Ceratanium® case and crown, a glass dial, and black hands.

Ceratanium® is a ground-breaking new material developed by IWC. It is as light and robust as titanium and almost as hard and scratch-resistant as ceramic.

The printing and luminescence are in the team’s signature PETRONAS green colour. Limited to only 100 pieces, this watch is fitted with a black rubber strap with textile inlay.

IWC’s legendary perpetual calendar was developed by former head-watchmaker Kurt Klaus during the 1980s. The mechanical program automatically recognises the different lengths of the months and the leap years, requiring no manual adjustment until 2100.

The moon phase display shows the moon as seen from the northern and southern hemispheres and will only deviate by one day after 577.5 years. The calendar module is driven via a single nightly switching impulse by the IWC-manufactured 52615 calibre.

This automatic movement features IWC’s iconic Pellaton winding system, which has been reinforced with ceramic components and accumulates a power reserve of 7 days in two barrels. The movement can be admired through the tinted sapphire glass back.

The watch carrying the number 50 will be auctioned online by the international auction house Bonhams.

The proceeds will go to Ignite. This charitable initiative launched in 2021 by The Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS F1™ Team and Sir Lewis Hamilton will focus its work on supporting greater diversity and inclusion in motorsport.

The watch comes with a 10-minute video call with Toto Wolff and a tour of the Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS F1™ Team HQ and Operations Centre, offering exclusive, behind-the-scenes insight into what goes into designing, manufacturing and running the world’s most advanced racing cars.

Interested buyers can register and place their bids here: www.bonhams.com/auction/28074.

In addition, IWC Schaffhausen and the Mercedes- AMG PETRONAS F1™ Team are also announcing the establishment of a yearly donation of 50,000 Euros, which will be funded by IWC. Like the auction proceeds, the funds will also go to Ignite.

Technical details

Model: IWC Schaffhausen Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition “Toto Wolff X Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One™ Team”, Ref. IW503607

Movement
IWC-manufactured calibre 52615
Mechanical automatic movement
Pellaton automatic winding system
Frequency: 28,800 vph / 4 Hz
Jewels: 54
Power reserve: 7 days (168 h)

Functions
Power reserve display
Perpetual Calendar with displays for the date, day, month, year in four digits and perpetual moon phase for the northern and southern hemisphere
Small hacking seconds

Case
Ceratanium® case
Diameter: 46.2 mm
Height: 15.4 mm
Glass: Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Glass secured against displacement by drops in air pressure
Screw-in crown
See-through sapphire glass back
Water-resistance: 6 bar

Dial
Glass dial, black hands

Strap
Black rubber strap with textile inlay, Ceratanium® pin buckle

Panerai Luminor Goldtech™ Calendario Perpetuo Limited Edition

June 11, 2022 MasterHorologer

Panerai presents new Luminor Goldtech™ Calendario Perpetuo, a limited-edition perpetual calendar watch.

Composed of Panerai Goldtech™, 750‰ gold with platinum, the 44mm Luminor case is a classic silhouette in the Panerai design lexicon. Except for the crown-protecting device, the caseback and the buckle, its surface is polished to a high shine, creating a radiant frame for each elegantly arrayed feature.

The automatic movement P.4100, created by Panerai, drives the functions of the Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo. The movement offers intuitive setting that requires no corrector or tools, permitting adjustments to the day, date, month and year through rotating the crown in either direction.

Moreover, there are no limitations to the freedom to make adjustments, including during month-end periods and approaching midnight. The GMT function operates alongside the hour and minute hands, with the subdial at 9 o’clock featuring the day-night indicator and small seconds. A 22-carat gold micro-rotor winds and stores energy in two barrels.

A smoked sapphire crystal dial allows complete visibility of the day and date discs, providing an uninterrupted view of the interior architecture of the watch. Through the sapphire caseback the month, year, leap year and power reserve indicators are visible.

Available in only 33 pieces, the watch comes fitted on a black patina alligator strap with a matte finish.

Water resistant up to 50 meters, the Luminor Goldtech™ Calendario Perpetuo features a trapezoidal pin buckle in Panerai Goldtech™. A screwdriver to remove the buckle accompanies the watch together with a black rubber second strap.

Each buyer of the Luminor Goldtech™ Calendario Perpetuo will be invited to an extraordinary journey to the seat of Panerai heritage, the city of Florence and the surrounding Tuscan countryside. The experience will immerse clients in the brand’s origins and the essence of Italian excellence through events that combine cuisine, culture and tours of historical sites.

Buyers of the Panerai Luminor Goldtech™ Calendario Perpetuo will also receive access to an exclusive NFT created by an artist for the occasion.

Technical details

Model: Panerai Luminor Goldtech™ Calendario Perpetuo
Reference PAM01269

Movement
Automatic mechanical, P.4100 caliber, 15 ½ lignes, 6.9 mm thick
55 jewels
Glucydur™ balance
28,800 alternations/hour
KIF™ anti-shock device
Two barrels
Seconds reset
Stop Balance wheel
Power Reserve: 3 days

Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, day, month, year, leap year, GMT, power reserve indicator, perpetual calendar, seconds reset

Case
Diameter 44mm
Polished Panerai Goldtech™ case
Polished Panerai Goldtech™ bezel and see-through sapphire crystal satiné caseback
Satiné Panerai Goldtech™ Safety Lock crown protection device (protected by trademark)
Sapphire crystal formed of corundum
Waterproof: 5 bar (~50 meters)

Dial
Smoked sapphire dial with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers
Day of the week, date at 3 o’clock, seconds and 24h indicator at 9 o’clock

Strap
Alligator black patina strap, ecru stitching, 24/22 mm, BA, STD. Trapezoidal brushed Panerai Goldtech™

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin for Ladies

June 4, 2022 MasterHorologer

Vacheron Constantin presents the Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin, a new feminine timepiece in its Traditionnelle collection, a line imbued with the grand Geneva watchmaking heritage and whose design was intended to adapt to all types of watches, whether simple or equipped with sophisticated complications.

This timepiece equipped with in-house Calibre 1120 QP elegantly plays on the distinctive aspects of the Gregorian calendar. It displays the days, dates, months and years on a four-year cycle, including a leap-year indication, without any need for correction before 2100.

This calendar display is complemented by a moon-phase indication at 6 o’clock. Another distinctive feature of this movement is its thinness: measuring only 4.05 mm thick, it is housed in an 8.43 mm-thick case with a 36.5 mm diameter, ensuring perfect visual harmony.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin watch for Ladies — Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin for Ladies

Calibre 1120 QP reflects the Maison’s expertise in ultra-thin movements that has enabled it to set several records in terms of slimness since the 1950s.

With its 276 components perfectly visible through the sapphire caseback, it also reflects noble watchmaking traditions through its extremely meticulous finishing: a circular-grained plate on the dial side, mainplate and bridges adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif on the back, hand-bevelling, circular satin-finished holes and a going train with polished teeth. The oscillating weight featuring a 22K gold segment is also adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif and openworked in the shape of the Maison’s Maltese cross emblem.

This watch whose aesthetic refinement echoes its technical sophistication pays tribute to the identity codes of Vacheron Constantin, whereby the quest for excellence is expressed through the smallest, even invisible details.

Available in 18K white gold and 18K 5N pink gold versions, it is inspired by Vacheron Constantin models from the first half of the last century. It features the strong sense of understatement characterising the collection, embellished with a few special features such as the stepped lugs and case, fluted caseback, as well as Dauphine-type hands flying over a railway minutes track punctuated by baton-type hour-markers.

In keeping with the methodical spirit of the time, which held that function should dictate form, this perpetual calendar has been specially designed to make it easy to read the calendar indications thanks to a slimmed-down bezel offering a larger dial opening.

The dial is adorned with blue-grey tinted mother-of-pearl for the white gold model and white mother-of-pearl for the pink gold model.

The moon-phase disc bears the same colours as the dial, while the depiction of the moon and the stars adopts the same shade of gold as the case, complete with an opaline finish. In a final touch of elegance, the bezel and top of the lugs are delicately set with 76 round-cut diamonds, while the crown is adorned with a round-cut diamond.

For the first time in the collection, this Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin watch is equipped with an interchangeable strap that can be fitted at the touch of a push-button and without any need for tools.

Each model comes with an alligator leather strap – grey blue or rosy beige – secured by a white or pink gold pin buckle set with 17 round-cut diamonds.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin

References
4305T/000G-B948: 18K white gold case version with blue grey mother-of-pearl dial
4305T/000R-B947: 18K 5N pink gold version with white mother-of-pearl dial

Movement
Calibre 1120 QP
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
29.6 mm (12½’’’) diameter, 4.05 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations per hour)
276 components
36 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours, minutes
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, 48-month display with leap year indication)
Moon phases

Case
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold
36.5 mm diameter, 8.43 mm thick
Bezel and lugs set with 76 round-cut diamonds
Crown set with 1 round-cut diamond
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial
Blue grey/White mother-of-pearl
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold hour-markers and hands

Strap
Blue grey (4305T/000G-B948) / Rosy beige (4305T/000R-B947)
Mississippiensis alligator leather with calfskin leather inner shell, stitched tip, square scales
With integrated self-interchangeable system
Buckle 18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold pin buckle set with 17 round-cut diamonds

Total diamond-setting
94 round-cut diamonds, for a total weight of approx.
1.20 carats (guaranteed minimum carats)

Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar, New Model with White Gold case and Blue Aventurine Dial

June 3, 2022 MasterHorologer

Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet has launched a new iteration of its Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar combining an 18-carat white gold case with a blue aventurine dial and a matching textured rubber-coated strap.

This contemporary timepiece continues the Manufacture’s long history of calendar watches while foregrounding once more the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet’s endless creativity.

The new Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar combines an 18-carat white gold case with a blue aventurine dial and a matching textured rubber-coated strap.

The white gold timepiece adorns a dark blue dial in aventurine glass recalling a star-lit sky. This glass has been polished and very thinly cut before being applied onto the dial’s plate.

The moon phase at 6 o’clock has been reproduced through laser engraving and applied on a thin aventurine disc. The day number and week day, respectively located at 3 and 9 o’clock, as well as the month indication at 12 o’clock are also presented on aventurine subdials.

For their part, the week numbers have been transferred onto the corresponding blue lacquered inner bezel. The white gold hour-markers and hands add a subtle contrast, while recalling the colour of the case and crown.

The double curved sapphire crystal that seamlessly integrates the extra-thin bezel’s curvature completes the watch’s overall design, while providing a unique visual effect onto the dial.

This new 18-carat white gold version complements the perpetual calendar model crafted in 18-carat pink gold unveiled in 2019 for the launch of the collection. The white gold extra-thin bezel, stylised lugs, octagonal case middle as well as round caseback provide an elegant contrast with the blue aventurine dial.

The alternation of satin-brushing and polished chamfers adorning the different components add an interesting play of light, while accentuating the complex architecture of the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection.

Conceived with both women and men in mind, this complicated wristwatch will sit comfortably on all wrists thanks to the 41 mm case’s ergonomic curvature.

The timepiece is fitted with a dark blue rubber-coated calfskin strap finished with a textured motif, giving a highly contemporary look to this classic complication. The straight integration of the strap in the continuity of the lugs, which have been welded to the extra-thin bezel, further reveals the refined hand-finishing techniques adorning the case.

This timepiece houses the Manufacture’s selfwinding perpetual calendar movement, Calibre 5134, fitted with the collection’s dedicated22-carat pink gold oscillating weight. Calibre 5134 automatically takes into account the number of days in the month and correctly displays the prevailing date even in leap years.

Assuming the watch is kept regularly wound, the date will not require manual correction until 2100, at which point it will require adjustment in order to stay in line with the Gregorian calendar.

The movement has been finished with refined decorations including “Côte de Genève,” microbead-blasting, sunray finishing, satin-brushing and polished chamfers, all visible through the sapphire caseback.

The Legacy of Audemars Piguet Calendar Watches

Yet, during the company’s first two decades, calendar complications accounted for less than 10% of its total production.

Audemars Piguet’s first full calendar wristwatch was put into production in 1921 and sold three years later to the renowned retailer Gübelin. From 1921 to 1970, 188 full calendar wristwatches were produced – a small part of the Manufacture’s total production during these years.

In 1955, the company released the world’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch with leap year indication, 9 examples of which were created between 1955 and 1957.

Launched in 2015, Calibre 5134 adapted the perpetual calendar movement to a larger Royal Oak 41 mm case diameter (Model 26574), while retaining a thin profile with its 4.31 mm in thickness. This calibre has powered many perpetual calendar wristwatches across the Manufacture’s collection ever since, including the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet since 2019.

In 2018, the Manufacture opened yet another chapter in its history of perpetual calendar timepieces with the advent of the revolutionary 41 mm Royal Oak Self-winding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, known as RD#2 – the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch upon release.

This 6.3mm-thick watch houses Calibre 5133, a newly engineered ultra-thin movement measuring a mere 2.89mm in height, heralding yet another generation of astronomical watches.

Technical details

Model: Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar / 41 mm
Reference: 26394BC.OO.D027KB.01

Case
18-carat white gold case
Case diameter: 41mm
Case thickness: 10.9mm
Double curved glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Glare-proofed sapphire caseback
Water-resistant to 30 m

Movement
Self-winding Calibre 5134
Total diameter: 29mm (12 ¾ lignes)
Total thickness: 4.31mm
Number of jewels: 38
Number of parts: 365
Minimum power reserve guaranteed: 40h
Frequency of balance wheel: 2.75Hz (19,800 vibrations/hour)

Functions
Perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours and minutes

Dial
Blue aventurine dial, white gold applied hour-markers and hands with luminescent coating, blue lacquered inner bezel

Strap
Blue rubber-coated calfskin strap with 18-carat white gold folding clasp

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Platinum Ref. 5270P-014

April 19, 2022October 19, 2022 MasterHorologer

Patek Philippe has added a new platinum variant to its Perpetual Calendar Chronograph series with reference 5270.

For the new platinum Ref. 5270P-014 Chronograph with a perpetual calendar, Patek Philippe has opted for a green lacquered dial with a black gradation. This color theme is inspired by some of the most stunning vintage cars.

The Patek Philippe 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph was introduced in 2011. This manual-wound watch from the Grand Complication range is equipped with the CH 29-535 PS Q caliber.

It offers a power reserve of 65 hours with the chronograph disengaged. The 40mm diameter platinum case has a water resistance of 30 meters.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Platinum Ref. 5270P-014

Movement
Caliber CH 29‑535 PS Q
Manually wound mechanical movement
Diameter: 32 mm
Height: 7 mm
Number of parts: 456
Jewels: 33
Power reserve: With the chronograph disengaged: min. 55 hours – max. 65 hours. Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 28 800 (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Breguet
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Functions
Chronograph: Central chronograph hand and Instantaneous 30-minute counter
Perpetual Calendar: Day, month, leap year and day/night display in apertures. Date by hand
Moon phases
Seconds subdial

Case
Platinum case
Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 12.4 mm
Interchangeable full back and sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30 m

Dial
Laquered green dial with black-gradient rim
Gold applied hour markers

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny black
Fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5320G-011

April 11, 2022October 19, 2022 MasterHorologer

Patek Philippe presents a new version of the reference 5320 Perpetual Calendar watch.

The new white gold Perpetual Calendar with three-tiered lugs (Ref. 5320G-011) is inspired by the elements of a model from 1945. It features a vintage-themed opaline rose gilt dial.

The Patek Philippe Ref. 5320 series Perpetual Calendar was introduced in 2017. It houses the 324 S Q self-winding movement. Comprising 367 parts (including 29 jewels), this caliber has a maximum power reserve rating for 45 hours.

The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5320G-011 is fitted on a chocolate brown alligator leather strap.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5320G-011

Movement
Caliber 324 S Q, self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter: 32 mm
Height: 4.97 mm
Number of parts: 367
Jewels: 29
Power reserve: min. 35 hours – max. 45 hours
Winding rotor: 21K gold central rotor
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 28 800 (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Functions
Perpetual calendar: Day, month, leap year and day/night indication in apertures. Date by hand
Moon phases
Sweep seconds

Case
White gold case
Interchangeable full back and sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30 m
Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.13 mm

Dial
Rose-gilt opaline dial
Charcoal gray gold applied numerals with luminescent coating

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny chocolate brown
Fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374-300P-001

April 10, 2022October 19, 2022 MasterHorologer

Patek Philippe has launched a high-jewellery version of the Ref. 5374 Grand Complication with minute repeater and perpetual calendar. The platinum case and bezel of the new Patek Philippe 5374/300P-001 are paved with baguette-cut diamonds.

This new reference comes with a stunning the blue-lacquered dial. The flange is set with baguette-cut diamond minute markers and baguette-cut blue sapphire hour markers.

The Patek Philippe 5374/300P-001 Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar is equipped with the self-winding caliber R 27 Q. Its Minute repeater mechanism with “cathedral” gongs emits a deep, rich sound.

The watch is adorned with a total of 228 baguette-cut diamonds (11.62 cts) and 13 baguette-cut sapphires (0.72 ct).

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374/300P-001

Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement
Caliber R 27 Q

Functions
Minute repeater with “cathedral” gongs
Perpetual calendar
Day, date, month, leap year and 24-hour indication by hands
Moon phases

Case
Platinum case
Interchangeable solid and sapphire crystal case backs
Humidity- and dust-protected only (not water-resistant)
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 12.28 mm

Dial
Blue-lacquered, black-gradient rim
Sapphire hour markers and diamond minute markers
18K gold dial plate

Bracelet
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny dusk blue
Diamond-set fold-over clasp

Gem-setting
Bezel and flange: 120 diamonds (7.1 ct)
Flange hour-markers: 13 sapphires (0.72 ct)
Case-band and slide: 86 diamonds (3.5 ct)
Clasp: 22 diamonds (1.02 ct)
Total of 228 baguette-cut diamonds (11.62 cts) and 13 baguette-cut sapphires (0.72 ct)

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Platinum with a Salmon-Coloured Dial

April 4, 2022 MasterHorologer

Vacheron Constantin presents a new Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph timepiece with a platinum case with a salmon-coloured dial. This classically inspired combination is available in limited annual production exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques. This new high complication watch is powered by the in-house Calibre 1142 QP.

As its name suggests, this watch embodies traditional watchmaking codes, notably including Dauphine-type hands, a railway-type minutes track and a stepped case with distinctive fluting on the back. The legibility of the functions – an essential characteristic of Vacheron Constantin watches – is carefully orchestrated between the chronograph and the perpetual calendar.

Time indications are provided by white gold hands and hour-markers, while the chronograph and date functions are displayed by blued steel hands. The 30-minute chronograph counter and the small seconds counter appear in a perfectly balanced symmetrical arrangement.

The moon phases appear on a platinum disc at 6 o’clock, integrated within the pointer-type date display. The day, month and leap-year cycle are read off through apertures in the upper part of the dial.

The technical nature of the model is further accentuated by the tachymeter scale around the periphery and serving to calculate the average speed over a distance of 1000 metres thanks to the positioning of the chronograph seconds hand.

In keeping with the Maison’s philosophy of sophisticated aesthetics ensuring that each component benefits from meticulous care enhancing the overall beauty of each model, meticulous attention has been lavished on the dial.

Its opaline salmon-coloured small seconds and chronograph minute counters are distinguished by a circular satin- brushed ring with a finely snailed centre. The same snailed finish is featured on the circumference displaying the date numerals.

The platinum disc, bearing a moon that is alternately smiling and melancholy depending on the phase, has also been revisited in the spirit of 19th century table watches. The raised moons are polished and surrounded by stars against a frosted background.

One final detail plays a particularly important role in accentuating the exclusive nature of this new interpretation: a relief and facetted version of Maison’s emblematic Maltese cross beneath the 12 o’clock hour-marker. Crafted in 18K 5N pink gold, it features facets on each arm that are sandblasted on one side and polished on the other, thus providing a new expression of the Vacheron Constantin symbol.

This watch is equipped with manual-winding Calibre 1142 QP. This chronograph movement, complemented by a perpetual calendar, is one of the most highly prized historical calibres among collectors. It dates back to the 1940s and is notably distinguished by the sophisticated aesthetics of its architecture as well as by its reliability and precision enhanced by its column-wheel system.

This 324-component movement in its perpetual calendar version has been adapted over the decades, particularly to meet Hallmark of Geneva criteria, while its rate frequency has been modified to 3 Hz (21,600 vph) and its power reserve amounts to 48 hours.

The movement finishing which can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback is the object of particular attention perfectly illustrating this year’s theme, with a circular-grained mainplate, Côtes de Genève motif on the bridges, hand-bevelled components and straight-grained flanks.

The watch comes with an alligator leather strap secured by a folding clasp in platinum.

The elegant design of this new Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph is entirely in keeping with Vacheron Constantin’s 2022 “The Anatomy of Beauty®” theme. This extraordinarily painstaking care is expressed through the designers’ aesthetic choices and preferences as well as in the meticulous finishing work performed by the artisans.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Reference: 5000T/000P-B975

Movement
Caliber 1142 QP
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
27.5 mm (12’’’) diameter, 7.37 mm thick
Approximately 48 hours of power reserve
3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
324 components
21 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month, leap year indication)
Moon phase
Column-wheel chronograph (30-minute counter at 3 o’clock)

Case
950 platinum
43 mm diameter, 12.94 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial
Salmon-coloured opaline
950 Platinum moon disc
18K white gold applied hour-markers and hour and minute hands
Blued steel chronograph and date hands
Black painted tachymeter scale

Strap
Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp: 950 platinum folding clasp; Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Accessory
Delivered with a corrector pen

Availability
Available exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar

April 4, 2022 MasterHorologer

Jaeger-LeCoultre has added a perpetual calendar watch to the Polaris line for the first time. Featuring a deep gradient-blue lacquer dial amplifying its sporty-elegant style, the Polaris Perpetual Calendar takes its aesthetic cues from the Polaris Mariner Memovox.

Its newly developed, in-house movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868AA provides a display of the moon phases in both hemispheres, as well as an extended power reserve of 70 hours, in addition to the perpetual calendar displays and rotating inner bezel – a signature of the Polaris line.

The historic Polaris name was reintroduced by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 2018 with an entirely new line of watches that harness the Manufacture’s distinguished legacy of diving watches, and translate the spirit of the celebrated 1968 Memovox Polaris into contemporary form. Conceived for everyday adventures, with a combination of robust capabilities, practical functions and a distinctive aesthetic, the Polaris collection has redefined the modern sporty-elegant watch.

Perpetual calendar is among the most challenging complications to master; a miniature mechanical computer, it must automatically adjust for months of different lengths and even for leap years.

At the end of the 19th century, LeCoultre & Cie developed its first perpetual calendar pocket watches. Due to the difficulty of creating such complex mechanisms on the tiny scale of a watch, the complication was still extremely rare when Jaeger-LeCoultre presented its first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1937. Since then, the Manufacture’s watchmakers have continuously improved the precision and quality of these remarkable mechanisms.

The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868AA developed for the Polaris Perpetual Calendar has evolved from the well-proven in-house perpetual calendar movement that first appeared in 2013.

It has been upgraded in line with the Manufacture’s latest technical innovations and significantly modified, with a retrograde display of Southern Hemisphere moon phases complementing the classical Northern Hemisphere moon-phase display, as well as an increase in power reserve to 70 hours. Supplementing the calendar indications, the rotating inner bezel – a Polaris signature – offers the practical function of measuring elapsed time.

Lacquered in a deep gradient-blue colour, the dial of the Polaris Perpetual Calendar takes its aesthetic cues from the Polaris Mariner Memovox. The graduated blue suggests the transition from day to night – a subtle reminder of the connection between celestial phenomena and time measurement.

With an emphasis on balance and legibility, the calendar indications are displayed in three sub-dials. The date, month and day indicators are at 9, 12 and 3 o’clock respectively, with the year displayed within the month indicator. The moon phases are displayed at 6 o’clock – with a retrograde display for the Southern Hemisphere framing a classical display for its Northern counterpart. Each of the four sub-dials is slightly recessed and finished in different textures, adding visual richness as the light plays across them.

At the centre of the dial, a small security zone indicator shows red between the hours of 20:00 and 04:00 to warn the user not to adjust the time or calendar indications. Skeletonised hands allow greater visibility of the indications and, in keeping with the contemporary Polaris design codes; bold trapezoid-shaped indexes balance the complexity and fine detail of the calendar displays. Luminescent coating on hands and indexes enhances legibility in all light conditions.

The 42mm cases, in steel or pink gold, feature the key Polaris design codes: taut lines, fine bezels, glass-box crystals, and an eye-catching mix of brushed and polished surfaces. A transparent sapphire crystal case-back and an open-worked pink gold winding rotor reveal the fine decorative finishes on the movement.

Crucially for a timepiece designed for everyday living, the Polaris Perpetual Calendar is easy to operate and adjust. The top crown rotates the inner bezel – both features being Polaris signatures – while the lower crown is for setting the time and winding the watch. Calendar settings are adjusted via a single pusher.

Thanks to a newly developed interchangeable strap system, which is operated by simply pressing on the pushers integrated into the attachment point between the lugs, the Polaris Perpetual Calendar is adaptable for every adventure. Capitalising on its sporty character, the steel model is offered with both a three-link steel bracelet and textured rubber strap, while the elegance of the pink gold model is complemented by a blue rubber strap and, for a more formal look, an alligator strap with a folding buckle.

Adding to the options for personalisation is a collection of calfskin straps in a variety of colours.

Technical details

Model: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar

References
Q9088180: Steel version
Q9082680: Pink gold version

Case
Steel or pink gold
Dimensions: 42mm x 11.97mm
Water resistance: 100m

Movement
Calibre: automatic mechanical Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868AA
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 70 hours

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar with moon phases in two hemispheres and red security zone, inner rotating bezel

Dial
Gradient blue lacquer

Strap
Steel version with interchangeable steel bracelet and rubber strap
Pink gold version with interchangeable rubber strap and alligator leather strap

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton, Pink Gold Version with a Blue Dial

April 2, 2022 MasterHorologer

Vacheron Constantin has released a new interpretation of the Overseas ultra-thin perpetual calendar model. This new skeletonised interpretation in 18K 5N pink gold comes with a blue dial.

The Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin was the winner of the Calendar and Astronomy Watch prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2020.

In order to keep track of the Gregorian calendar’s distinctive features, a perpetual calendar must be equipped with a mechanical memory of 1,461 days, taking the form of a cam on which, the different monthly durations are duly programmed. The mechanism can thus indicate without any need for correction months of 28, 30 and 31 days, as well as leap years.

On the Overseas perpetual calendar ultra-thin model, the day and date display along the horizontal axis is complemented on the vertical axis by the month indication across four years, while the moon-phase indication is symmetrically positioned at 6 o’clock beneath an opaque glass. The next adjustment of the date will only take place in 2100, a secular year divisible by four but not by 400 and therefore not a leap year – another singularity of the Gregorian calendar.

The Manufacture self-winding Calibre 1120 measuring just 2.45 mm thick is already considered a classic in the world of mechanical watches.

Complemented by a perpetual calendar module to form a total thickness of 4.05 mm, it nestles at the heart of the 18K 5N pink gold case with a total 8.1 mm thickness. Greatly appreciated by collectors for its reliability and performance, Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 has been entirely skeletonised.

All parts of Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 have been hollowed out, finished and decorated. The technical and aesthetic attention paid to the architecture of the calibre and to the surface finishes – including those that remain hidden from sight – stems from expertise in which the smallest details compose the anatomy of beauty characterising the timepieces from the Maison.

The movement has benefited from haute horlogerie finishing work entirely done by hand on all its components, which have been hand-drawn to create a satin-brushed appearance, chamfered to enhance the play of light and given a circular-brushed, sunburst or circular-grained decoration according to their place in the heart of the calibre.

The care devoted to these finishes is accentuated by the anthracite grey tone given by NAC (N-acetylcysteine) electrolytic treatment of the mainplate, bridges and open-worked oscillating weight shaped like a Maltese cross with a segment in 22K gold.

Operating at a rate of 19,800 vibrations per hour (2.75 Hz) and endowed with a 40-hour power reserve, the movement can be admired through the sapphire back of the 41.5 mm diameter case.

On the dial side, the thin blue calendar display rings and the same colour flange also provide a clear view of the calibre, while ensuring perfect legibility.

Thanks to its simple and practical interchangeable bracelet/strap system, the Overseas perpetual calendar ultra-thin skeleton watch can be adapted to any situation. It comes on an 18K 5N pink gold bracelet and is accompanied by two additional calfskin leather and rubber straps, each with an 18K 5N pink gold pin buckle.

The Overseas perpetual calendar ultra-thin skeleton watch is entirely in tune with Vacheron Constantin’s 2022 ‘Anatomy of Beauty®’ theme, which highlights the extraordinary attention involved to details all the way to the smallest component.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton
Reference 4300V/120R-B642

Movement
Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
Open-worked oscillating weight inspired by the shape of a Maltese cross with a segment in 22K gold
NAC treatment
29.6 mm (12½’’’) diameter, 4.05 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations per hour)
276 components
36 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours and minutes
Perpetual calendar (date, day of the week, month, leap year)
Moon phases

Case
18K 5N pink gold
41.5 mm diameter, 8.1 mm thick
Soft iron casing ring ensuring anti-magnetic protection
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 5 bar (approx. 50 metres)

Dial
Sapphire
18K 5N pink gold hour-markers and hours & minutes hands highlighted with Super-LumiNova®

Bracelet
18K 5N pink gold bracelet (half Maltese cross-shaped polished and satin-brushed links), secured by a 18K 5N pink gold triple-blade folding clasp with push-pieces and comfort-adjustment system

Additional straps
Blue calf leather strap with white stitches
Blue rubber
Buckles: Each additional strap comes with an 18K 5N pink gold buckle

Availability
Model exclusively available from Vacheron Constantin boutiques

H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue and Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial

February 20, 2022 MasterHorologer

Complicated yet simple, the H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual Calendar was created in 2005. Easy to read and set, it can be adjusted both forwards and backwards at any time of the day.

In 2015, H. Moser & Cie. unveiled the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue, which contributed to the brand’s revival while establishing its new aesthetic codes – a bold blend of the traditional and modern.

In 2022, H. Moser & Cie. is launching an updated version of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue, measuring 42 mm and featuring the brand’s logo in transparent lacquer.

To mark this event, and to aid those who may still wonder how their perpetual calendar works, H. Moser & Cie. is creating a very special commemorative limited edition which showcases the ingenious technical characteristics of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar.

An iconic piece, the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar model by H. Moser & Cie. is known for its complex movement, which nevertheless boasts unrivalled ease of use. No hard-to-read sub-dial or date disc: the indices display not only the hours, but also the months, using a small hand in the centre.

A very large date window at 3 o’clock, with the “Flash Calendar” function providing an instant date change at midnight, and a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock displaying the movement’s seven days of autonomy, complete the piece. The time and date are easy to set using the screw-down crown and can be changed at any time of the day.

Virtually all perpetual calendars on the market require careful handling, with strict adherence to every step of their very precise instructions. This leaves many customers reluctant to take them out of their box and tackle this time-consuming process – and too afraid to risk changing the date. H. Moser & Cie. has revolutionised the perpetual calendar by transforming a complication designed for the most discerning of collectors into a watch that even a child could operate.

The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue model was released in 2015 to mark the brand’s revival. Today, H. Moser & Cie. is revisiting this piece in a 42 mm version with a logo applied in transparent lacquer, as a reminder that authentic luxury goes beyond any artifice and that the fumé dial – the brand’s iconic signature – speaks for itself.

As for the very special series, this true “perpetual calendar for dummies” takes the piece in the opposite direction to the minimalist philosophy habitually cultivated by H. Moser & Cie., which the pared-down dial and intuitive functions of the perpetual calendar illustrate perfectly.

In a creative undertaking demonstrating the offbeat humour of H. Moser & Cie., the dial of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar has been scrawled with notes and drawings which encapsulate the features of this movement.

Technical details

Models

Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue, reference 1800-0204, 18-carat white gold model, Funky Blue fumé dial with logo in transparent lacquer, beige kudu leather strap
Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial, reference 1800-0205, 18-carat white gold model, Funky Blue fume dial, beige kudu leather strap, limited edition of 20 pieces

Case
18K white gold
Diameter: 42.0 mm
Height: 11.9 mm
Curved sapphire crystal
Curved see-through sapphire crystal case back
Screw-in crown adorned with an “M”

Dial
Funky Blue fumé with sunburst pattern
H. Moser & Cie. logo in transparent lacquer or decals
Leaf-shaped hands
Months indicated by a small arrow-shaped centre hand
Seconds hand
Big date display

Movement
Hand-wound HMC 800 Manufacture calibre
Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15 lignes
Height: 6.3 mm
Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h
32 jewels
Power reserve: minimum 7 days
Hacking seconds
Double barrel
Interchangeable Moser escapement
Original Straumann® hairspring
Pallet fork and escapement wheel made from gold
Movement and components hand-finished and decorated

Functions
Hours and minutes
Perpetual calendar
Big date display
Month indicator via central hand
Seconds dial at 6 o’clock
Power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock
Leap year cycle indicator on movement side

Strap
Hand-stitched beige kudu leather
Solid 18-carat white gold folding clasp engraved with the Moser logo

Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, New Model with a Blue-Grey Dial

February 15, 2022 MasterHorologer

Swiss watch brand Frederique Constant presents a new Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture timepiece with a captivating blue-grey dial.

The new deep blue-grey dial guarantees perfect legibility thanks to the contrast of the white typography and the mirror-polished and luminescent hour-markers and hands. The day can be read at 9 o’clock, the months and leap years at 12 o’clock and the date at 3 o’clock. At 6 o’clock, a moon phase completes the set.

Discreet correctors placed on the case allow, with the crown, to adjust the whole. At the centre of this dial features the guilloché motif of the Earth, the aesthetic signature of the Highlife collection.

Its 41 mm case is designed with an integrated three-link bracelet, alternating polished and satin-finished surfaces. With no lugs, it falls smoothly and naturally on the wrist. A special feature of the Highlife collection is that it is interchangeable, and can be alternated with a navy blue textured and stitched rubber extra strap –delivered with the watch – without the need for any tools.

The Manufacture FC-775 self-winding mechanical movement, embellished with delicate circular graining and Côtes de Genève decoration, can be admired through the exhibition case-back.

Technical details

Model: Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture
Reference: FC-775BL4NH6B

Functions
Hours, minutes, moonphase, date, day, month, leap year

Movement
FC-775 in-house caliber, automatic, perpetual calendar
Perlage& circular Côtes de Genève decorations
38-hour power reserve, 26 jewels, 28’800 alt/h

Case
Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-part case
Diameter of 41mm
Height of 12.65 mm
Scratch-resistant convex sapphire crystal with anti-glare coating on both sides
See-through case back
Water-resistant up to 5 ATM/50m/164ft

Dial
Blue grey dial, globe decoration
Silver color applied indexes filled with white luminous treatment
Hand-polished silver color hour and minute hands filled with white luminous treatment
Date counter at 3 o’clock with silver color hand
Moonphase at 6 o’clock
Day counter at 9 o’clock with silver color hand
Month and (leap) year counter at 12 o’clock with silver color hands

Bracelet
3-link brushed and polished stainless steel bracelet
Including an additional navy blue rubber strap

Recommended retail price
8’595€

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus

January 3, 2022January 8, 2022 MasterHorologer

The single-piece edition Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus combines Vacheron Constantin’s expertise in grand complication watches with its mastery of artistic crafts. This double-sided wristwatch comprises 16 complications, essentially astronomical and calendar-related, powered by Calibre 2755 GC16 with minute repeater and tourbillon. A technical feat housed in an 18K 5N gold case whose middle is sculpted in bas-relief. In tribute to the Roman god of vines and wine, this “Bacchus” watch finds another source of inspiration in Johannes Kepler, resulting in a captivating association between mythology and astronomy.

The 18K 5N pink gold case of this Les Cabinotiers timepiece features a decoration composed of vine leaves interspersed with bunches of ruby grapes. The engraver’s work is complemented by that of the gem-setter on the outside of the case in giving life to figurative motifs, making this watch a piece of fine craftsmanship.

The case decoration continues on the bezel and case-back with a hand engraving depicting vine leaves. The difficulty implied by this intaglio engraving lies in the absence of a border or contour line. Hollowed out across the entire width of the bezel, the garland thus stands alone thanks to the metronomic regularity of the motif. This latter aspect is picked up on the two fastening options – folding clasp and pin buckle.

To create the movement of this highly complicated watch, Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers took the Tour de l’Île as a reference, a timepiece presented in 2005 as a tribute to 250 years of watchmaking expertise cultivated by the Geneva-based Manufacture. In the same spirit, the Les Cabinotiers – Bacchus timepiece combines 16 complications, making it one of the most complex watches produced by the Maison. Its manual winding Calibre 2755 GC16 is equipped with a tourbillon regulator to compensate for the effects of the earth’s gravity on the mechanism.

Featuring a cage shaped like Vacheron Constantin’s signature Maltese cross emblem, the tourbillon completes one full rotation per minute, thus serving as a small seconds indicator. This watch also incorporates a minute repeater chiming the hours, quarters and minutes on demand. To avoid unnecessary noise as well as wear and tear on the mechanism, the striking of the gongs is equipped with an ingenious centripetal flying strike regulator. This perfectly silent device regulates the duration of the musical sequences so as to obtain clear, distinct and regular sounds.

The calendar and astronomical functions play a starring role on both sides of the watch. On the front, where the mechanical ballet of the tourbillon can be admired at 6 o’clock, the perpetual calendar indications are displayed on three counters. Positioned in the upper part of the dial, they respectively show the date, day and month.

Designed to keep track of the Gregorian calendar’s vagaries without any need for adjustment until 2100, this horological complication is further enhanced by the indication of the leap-year cycle. The latter appears in a small aperture next to the hand indicating the torque of the minute repeater mechanism between 1 and 2 o’clock. This striking mechanism power reserve is matched by an indication of the movement power reserve, which can be read by means of a serpentine pointer coaxial with the day of the week hand.

The complex mechanics of this piece also provide an astronomical reading of time representing a tribute to Johannes Kepler (1571-1630), regarded as one of the founders of modern astronomy for having discovered the laws of planetary motion, in perfect agreement with Copernicus’ heliocentric hypotheses. The first astronomical functions thus appear on this same opaline champagne-coloured dial, starting with the equation of time positioned between 10 and 11 o’clock.

As the Earth’s path around the Sun is not circular but elliptical, and since the Earth’s axis is inclined at 24° to the plane of its orbit, the time between two zenith passages of the Sun is not the same throughout the year. This difference between the (true) solar day and the (average) 24-hour civil day ranges from -16 to +14 minutes depending on the time of year and coincides only four times a year. Called the equation of time, or time correction in astronomical language, this differential is displayed by a dedicated pointer, while sunrise and sunset times – adjusted according to a reference city – appear at the bottom of the dial.

The sidereal time display finds its place the back of the watch in the shape of a rotating disc depicting the celestial vault with its constellations observable from the Northern hemisphere. Taking a fixed star in the sky as a reference point, the time required for the Earth to complete a full 360° rotation, or sidereal day, is exactly 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds.

Since the Earth is both spinning on its axis and revolving around the Sun, it takes about four minutes less than a calendar day to return to its point of origin relative to a given star. On this model, the “celestial” disc thus performs a complete rotation according to sidereal time with the time displayed on the periphery, opposite the date appearing on the periphery of the mobile disc.

This same date is read off by a large central hand moving over the fixed outer flange bearing a scale graduated in five-day increments. This hand also indicates the sign of the zodiac, the season and the four dates corresponding to the solstices and equinoxes. Finally, the small central hand indicates the age of the moon.

Comprising 839 parts and measuring a total 33.90 mm in diameter and 12.15 mm thick, this extremely complex movement is endowed with a 58-hour power reserve. It displays all its functions in a perfectly legible manner on both sides. The balance oscillates at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz).

The 47 mm-diameter 18K 5N pink gold case has been specifically designed to provide the best possible sound quality for the minute repeater.

Technical details

Model: Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus
Reference 9700C/000R-B755

Movement
Caliber 2755 GC16
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
33.90 mm diameter, 12.15 mm thick
Approximately 58 hours of power reserve
2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
839 components
42 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Front side: Hours, minutes, small second at 6 o’clock on tourbillon carriage – Minute repeater – Tourbillon – Perpetual calendar (date, day of the week, month, leap year) – Power reserve indication – Equation of time – Sunrise time – Sunset time – Alarm torque indication
Back side: Sky chart – Age and phases of the moon – Sidereal hours and minutes – Seasons, zodiac signs

Crowns and pushers
Setting Hours and minutes adjustment: winding crown (2 positions)
Moon phase adjustment: correction push-piece on the case
Perpetual calendar adjustment: two correction push-pieces on the case
Sky chart adjustment: with crown and screwed-down push-piece

Case
18K 5N pink gold with bezel and back side hand-engraved with “vine leaves” and case band hand-engraved with “vine leaves” and gem-set with 113 rubies for a total weight of approximately 1.84 cts representing bunch of grapes
47 mm diameter, 19.10 mm thick

Dials (face & back side)
Champagne opaline dials
18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers
18K 5N pink gold hands

Strap
Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Buckle: 18K 5N pink gold folding clasp and buckle hand-engraved with a “vine leaves” pattern; Half Maltese cross-shaped

Box
Les Cabinotiers Prestige box

Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen and a magnifying glass
A winder box

Edition
Single-piece edition
« Les Cabinotiers », « Pièce unique », « AC » hallmark engraved on caseback

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar, reference DB25QPATIS4

December 23, 2021 MasterHorologer

During Dubai Watch Week 2021, De Bethune launched a new DB25QP Perpetual Calendar watch with a green guilloche dial and a new titanium case featuring integrated lugs.

The De Bethune perpetual calendar is tinged with poetry and combines the finesse of watchmaking with the precision mechanics of the Manufacture by bringing together moon phase, starry sky and perpetual calendar in an exceptional timepiece. Inspired by the drum, the round case with a diameter of 44 mm, with its fine and resolutely classic lines, is subtly enhanced by the hollowed-out horns characteristic of the DB25 collection.

The finesse of the decorations and the purity of the green hand-guilloche dial, radiating in 12 sectors, underline the legibility of the dial, which is built up by the assembly of ring-shaped appliques delimiting the sub-dials and the hour circle. At 12 o’clock, a sphere in palladium and black oxidized zirconium sits in a sky set with gold stars, also incorporating a leap year indicator in a gold pastille in the starry sky at 12 o’clock. The date can be read on a dial located at 6 o’clock, while the windows indicating the day of the week and the month are located at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively.

The round case of the new DB25QP retains the harmonious lines that contributed to the success of the original DB25QP but is offered for the first time in titanium. This further enhances the practicality and comfort of this timepiece.

Developed in the Manufacture’s Haute Horlogerie workshops in Sainte Croix in the Swiss Jura, the automatic DB2324 caliber benefits from De Bethune’s research and technology know how. It incorporates a perpetual calendar, a spherical moon indicating the moon phases with a precision of 1 day/122 years, a self-regulating double barrel, a triple pare-chute system and a titanium/grey gold balance.

A sapphire caseback allows one to admire the complexity of the movement as well as the refinement of its finishing: ¾ platinum bridge with star decoration, sandblasted and hand-colored, blued titanium balance bridge and oscillating weight arm, hand-colored white gold weight, hand-beveled and mirror-polished steels.

This new perpetual calendar comes with a green textile strap with a polished titanium buckle and pin. A second leather strap accompanies it. A perfect illustration of the technical and aesthetic know-how of the Manufacture, this new reference DB25QPATIS4 is destined to replace all the DB25QPs previously presented in the current De Bethune collection.

Technical details

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Limited Editions: The Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture and the Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture

December 8, 2021 MasterHorologer

Frederique Constant has expanded its Highlife series by presenting two stunning and exclusive Highlife Emerald limited editions: the Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture (limited to 30 pieces) and the Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture (limited to 222 pieces).

Unveiled at the Dubai Watch Week 2021, these special edition watches feature emerald green dials. A tone dear to Frederique Constant, the green colour is associated with nature, representing the source of life.

In 1999, Frederique Constant introduced the very first Highlife watches. In 2020, the Maison revived the iconic design and reintroduced the collection with resolutely modern curves rooted in the 21st century, thus adding a new dimension to the definition of accessible luxury according to Frederique Constant. The new design translates into both taut and flexible lines, the modernity of a creation that denies nothing of its craftsmanship, balance or style.

One of the key hallmarks of Highlife stamped timepieces is an integrated and interchangeable strap, offering a seamless integration with the watch case. This innovative system makes it possible to change the strap at will and without the need for tools.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture

Dedicated to frequent travelers, the Frederique Constant Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture watch boasts a globe engraved dial, combined to a contemporary 41 mm steel case.

The highly contemporary design of the steel case and dial with globe engraving is an ode to travel. The FC-718 manufacture calibre is designed exactly for that. The self-winding mechanical movement has a power reserve of 38 hours. It is visible through the case back, water-resistant up to 50 metres. The movement incorporates typical Genevan finishes like perlage and circular Côtes de Genève.

Highly user-friendly, its single crown can be used to set any function: hours, minutes, the date at 6 o’clock and the 24 cities disc that represents 24 time zones on Earth, itself engraved in the centre of the piece. There is no day / night indicator required; the inner disc has been engraved with 12 hours on the light area (cities where it is daytime) and 12 hours on the blue area (those where it is night-time).

Green is the dominant colour of the Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture Limited Edition. It takes up the whole centre of the dial, as well as the date counter, for which Frederique Constant has used its unique sunray guilloché for improved legibility. This is skimmed by three central rhodium-plated hands, including luminescent hour and minute hands that are easy to read, even when travelling to the other side of the world at night.

The Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture is delivered with an integrated and interchangeable steel bracelet, which can be switched to an extra black rubber strap on a split second, to complement the urban feel of the watch.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

Presented in a steel case, this bold timepiece incorporates two most prestigious horological mechanisms: Tourbillon and Perpetual Calendar.

Within the 41 mm case with the integrated strap characteristic of the Highlife collection, Frederique Constant has organised its complications into four segments.

The brand has arranged both day and date displays horizontally, so as to be read in a natural and intuitive way in a fraction of a second. Brought together in a single counter at 12 o’clock are the month (large hand) and leap year indication (small hand). Adding the finishing touch to this perfectly mastered aesthetic composition, the tourbillon balances it out at 6 o’clock, counting down the seconds with its central hand.

The Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture is dominated by the green colour. On both sides of the complications on display, Frederique Constant has opted for a face without a dial. This allows you to see the inner workings of the FC-975 Manufacture calibre, alongside the delicate blued screws, perlage and subtle Côtes de Genève.

It also improves the contrast between the rhodium-plated movement and the perpetual calendar display. To ensure it is easy to read, the Manufacture has also been careful to give them recessed counters on two levels, so as to better capture the light.

The FC-975 caliber is designed, produced and assembled in very limited numbers at the Geneva-based manufacture. For greater precision (an essential characteristic of the tourbillon), Frederique Constant has equipped it with a silicone escapement – both the escape wheel and the lever.

Limited to 30 timepieces, this exclusive model is mounted on a three-link polished and satin-brushed steel bracelet, and delivered alongside a second rubber strap.

Technical details

Model: Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture
Reference: FC-975GR4NH6B

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day, month, leap year

Movement
FC-975 caliber, automatic, tourbillon, perpetual calendar
Perlage, drafted marks and Côtes de Genève decorations
38-hour power reserve, 33 jewels, 28’800 alt/h
Silicon escapement wheel and anchor

Case
Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-part case
Diameter of 41 mm
Height of 12.65 mm
Front convex sapphire crystal
See-through case back
Water-resistant up to 5 ATM

Dial
Skeleton dial
Green outer ring with white printed second markers
Hand-polished silvered color with white luminous treatment hour and minute hands
Green day counter at 9 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hand
Green month and year counter at 12 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hands
Green date counter at 3 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hand
Open tourbillon’s cage at 6 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color second hand

Strap
Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-link bracelet
Including an additional dark green rubber strap

Edition
Limited to 30 pieces

Suggested retail price
22’995€

Model: Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture
Reference: FC-718GR4NH6B

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date by hand, worldtimer

Movement
FC-718 Manufacture caliber, automatic with all functions adjustable by the crown
Perlage& circular Côtes de Genève decoration on the movement
26 jewels, 38-hour power reserve, 28’800 alt/h

Case
Brushed and polished stainless steel3-part case
Diameter of 41 mm
Height of 12.90 mm
Front convex sapphire crystal
See-through case back
Water-resistant up to 5 ATM

Dial
Green dial, globe decoration and silver color applied indexes with white luminous treatment
24H disc with day (white) & night (green) indication
City disc with 24 cities
Hand-polished silver color with white luminous treatment hour and minute hands
Hand-polished silver color second hand
Date counter at 6 o’clock with hand-polished silver color hand

Strap
Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-link bracelet
Including an additional dark green rubber strap

Edition
Limited to 222 pieces

Suggested retail price
3’795€

Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture “Year of the Fiftieth” Limited Edition

December 8, 2021 MasterHorologer

Along the Eastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula are the United Arab Emirates, seven emirates united under one federation since December 2nd, 1971. In 2021, the UAE are celebrating their 50th anniversary.

As part of the Golden Jubilee celebrations, Frederique Constant and the famous watch retailer Ahmed Seddiqi&Sons announced an incredible Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture “Year of the Fiftieth” limited-edition of 50 timepieces.

A unique model within the Highlife collection and a first for Frederique Constant, this timepiece is fully made of titanium, from the case down to the integrated bracelet – and will be available for purchase at Seddiqi& Sons exclusively.

For this model, Frederique Constant and Ahmed Seddiqi& Sons opted for an eye-catching turquoise blue dial, an unprecedented colour in the Maison’s history. Contrasting with dark grey subdials, the famous ‘Yas’ blue colour adorning the Circuit’s run off areas was chosen as the shade most closely resembling the seas of the Gulf. Called pantone 321, the colour is unique to Yas Marina Circuit.

In the middle of the dial proudly stands the globe decoration, emblem of the Highlife timepieces, whose legibility is ensured by the sapphire crystal’s anti-reflective treatment on both sides. Every finishing touch is enhanced by amazing reflections – like the 41 mm case, with its alternating polished and satin finished surfaces. . Keeping with the sleekness of design, all of the perpetual calendar’s correctors have been integrated, lending emphasis to the lone crown at 3 o’clock.

As a perpetual calendar timepiece, the Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture “Year of the Fiftieth” is a testament to the savoir-faire that Frederique Constant has patiently amassed over the past 30 years. The Brand is one of very few to be able to design, produce, assemble and test its own watches internally, within its own Geneva-based manufacture. From the design to the final quality control, each and every step involved in making this is carried out in-house.

Powered by the Manufacture FC-775 self-winding mechanical movement, the Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture “Year of the Fiftieth” beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph and has a power reserve of 38 hours. For collectors and connoisseurs of fine watchmaking, the movement, featuring intricate perlage and Côtes de Genève decoration, can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback.

To celebrate this historic 50-years milestone, Frederique Constant and Seddiqi& Sons have engraved the oscillating weight with the “Year of the Fiftieth UAE” inscription.

In addition to the standard titanium bracelet, the watch will be provided with an extra dark grey rubber strap.

Technical details

Model: Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture “Year of the Fiftieth”
Reference: FC-775LNG4NH1B

Functions
Hours, minutes, moonphase, date, day, month, leap year

Movement
FC-775 Manufacture caliber, automatic, perpetual calendar
Perlage & circular Côtes de Genève decoration
38-hour power reserve, 26 jewels, 28’800 alt/h
“Year of the Fiftieth UAE” engraving on the rotor

Case
Polished titanium3-part case
Diameter of 41mm
Thickness of 12.65 mm
Convex sapphire crystal with anti-glare coating on both sides
See-through case back
Water-resistant up to 5 ATM

Dial
Turquoise blue dial with dark grey subdial, globe decoration and silver color applied indexes with white luminous treatment
Hand-polished silver color hour & minute hands with white luminous treatment

Bracelet
Titanium bracelet
Including an extra dark grey rubber strap

Edition
Limited to 50 pieces

Suggested retail price
39’950 AED

Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar “Rose Opaline and Dark Blue” Limited Edition

October 29, 2021 MasterHorologer

Glashütte Original presents new limited-edition Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar watch with a rose opaline dial and a dark blue leather strap. Equipped with a hand-crafted and finely finished automatic calibre 36-12 from the renowned Saxon manufactory, this timepiece will be issued in a limited edition of only 100 pieces.

The galvanic rose opaline dial is crafted and decorated in an elaborate process with numerous individual steps. Its silken hue contrasts splendidly with the hand-mounted blue hour appliques, which in this case consist exclusively of Roman numerals. The deep blue hue is taken up by the finely stepped calendar windows and moon phase display, and by the elegant poire hands and Louisiana alligator leather strap.

All calendar indications are precisely tailored to suit the various lengths of the months, lending the watch a new look day after day. Thanks to its astonishing mechanical memory, Glashütte Original‘s Perpetual Calendar won’t need to be reset until the year 2100.

Technical details

Model: IWC Schaffhausen Portofino Perpetual Calendar Ref. IW344601 / IW344602

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Model: Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204G-001

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Model: Patek Philippe Ref. 5373P-001 Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar

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Model: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar/ 41 mm Reference 26579CS.OO.1225CS.01

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Model: Habring² Chrono-Felix Perpetual

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Model: De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar Reference: DB25sQPATIS13

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Model: IWC Schaffhausen Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition “Toto Wolff X Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One™ Team”, Ref. IW503607

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Model: Panerai Luminor Goldtech™ Calendario Perpetuo Reference PAM01269

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Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin

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The Legacy of Audemars Piguet Calendar Watches

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Model: Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar / 41 mm Reference: 26394BC.OO.D027KB.01

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Model: Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Platinum Ref. 5270P-014

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Model: Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5320G-011

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Model: Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374/300P-001

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Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Reference: 5000T/000P-B975

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Model: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar

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Model: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton Reference 4300V/120R-B642

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Model: Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Reference: FC-775BL4NH6B

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Model: Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus Reference 9700C/000R-B755

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Model: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar/ 41 mm
Reference 26579CS.OO.1225CS.01

Model: De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar
Reference: DB25sQPATIS13

Model: Panerai Luminor Goldtech™ Calendario Perpetuo
Reference PAM01269

Model: Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar / 41 mm
Reference: 26394BC.OO.D027KB.01

Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Reference: 5000T/000P-B975

Model: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton
Reference 4300V/120R-B642

Model: Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture
Reference: FC-775BL4NH6B

Model: Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus
Reference 9700C/000R-B755

Model: Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture
Reference: FC-975GR4NH6B

Model: Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture
Reference: FC-718GR4NH6B

Model: Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture “Year of the Fiftieth”
Reference: FC-775LNG4NH1B