Tag: PERPETUAL CALENDAR

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus

MasterHorologer

The single-piece edition Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus combines Vacheron Constantin’s expertise in grand complication watches with its mastery of artistic crafts. This double-sided wristwatch comprises 16 complications, essentially astronomical and calendar-related, powered by Calibre 2755 GC16 with minute repeater and tourbillon. A technical feat housed in an 18K 5N gold case whose middle is sculpted in bas-relief. In tribute to the Roman god of vines and wine, this “Bacchus” watch finds another source of inspiration in Johannes Kepler, resulting in a captivating association between mythology and astronomy.

The 18K 5N pink gold case of this Les Cabinotiers timepiece features a decoration composed of vine leaves interspersed with bunches of ruby grapes. The engraver’s work is complemented by that of the gem-setter on the outside of the case in giving life to figurative motifs, making this watch a piece of fine craftsmanship.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus

The case decoration continues on the bezel and case-back with a hand engraving depicting vine leaves. The difficulty implied by this intaglio engraving lies in the absence of a border or contour line. Hollowed out across the entire width of the bezel, the garland thus stands alone thanks to the metronomic regularity of the motif. This latter aspect is picked up on the two fastening options – folding clasp and pin buckle.

To create the movement of this highly complicated watch, Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers took the Tour de l’Île as a reference, a timepiece presented in 2005 as a tribute to 250 years of watchmaking expertise cultivated by the Geneva-based Manufacture. In the same spirit, the Les Cabinotiers – Bacchus timepiece combines 16 complications, making it one of the most complex watches produced by the Maison. Its manual winding Calibre 2755 GC16 is equipped with a tourbillon regulator to compensate for the effects of the earth’s gravity on the mechanism.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus

Featuring a cage shaped like Vacheron Constantin’s signature Maltese cross emblem, the tourbillon completes one full rotation per minute, thus serving as a small seconds indicator. This watch also incorporates a minute repeater chiming the hours, quarters and minutes on demand. To avoid unnecessary noise as well as wear and tear on the mechanism, the striking of the gongs is equipped with an ingenious centripetal flying strike regulator. This perfectly silent device regulates the duration of the musical sequences so as to obtain clear, distinct and regular sounds.

The calendar and astronomical functions play a starring role on both sides of the watch. On the front, where the mechanical ballet of the tourbillon can be admired at 6 o’clock, the perpetual calendar indications are displayed on three counters. Positioned in the upper part of the dial, they respectively show the date, day and month.

Designed to keep track of the Gregorian calendar’s vagaries without any need for adjustment until 2100, this horological complication is further enhanced by the indication of the leap-year cycle. The latter appears in a small aperture next to the hand indicating the torque of the minute repeater mechanism between 1 and 2 o’clock. This striking mechanism power reserve is matched by an indication of the movement power reserve, which can be read by means of a serpentine pointer coaxial with the day of the week hand.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus

The complex mechanics of this piece also provide an astronomical reading of time representing a tribute to Johannes Kepler (1571-1630), regarded as one of the founders of modern astronomy for having discovered the laws of planetary motion, in perfect agreement with Copernicus’ heliocentric hypotheses. The first astronomical functions thus appear on this same opaline champagne-coloured dial, starting with the equation of time positioned between 10 and 11 o’clock.

As the Earth’s path around the Sun is not circular but elliptical, and since the Earth’s axis is inclined at 24° to the plane of its orbit, the time between two zenith passages of the Sun is not the same throughout the year. This difference between the (true) solar day and the (average) 24-hour civil day ranges from -16 to +14 minutes depending on the time of year and coincides only four times a year. Called the equation of time, or time correction in astronomical language, this differential is displayed by a dedicated pointer, while sunrise and sunset times – adjusted according to a reference city – appear at the bottom of the dial.

The sidereal time display finds its place the back of the watch in the shape of a rotating disc depicting the celestial vault with its constellations observable from the Northern hemisphere. Taking a fixed star in the sky as a reference point, the time required for the Earth to complete a full 360° rotation, or sidereal day, is exactly 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus

Since the Earth is both spinning on its axis and revolving around the Sun, it takes about four minutes less than a calendar day to return to its point of origin relative to a given star. On this model, the “celestial” disc thus performs a complete rotation according to sidereal time with the time displayed on the periphery, opposite the date appearing on the periphery of the mobile disc.

This same date is read off by a large central hand moving over the fixed outer flange bearing a scale graduated in five-day increments. This hand also indicates the sign of the zodiac, the season and the four dates corresponding to the solstices and equinoxes. Finally, the small central hand indicates the age of the moon.

Comprising 839 parts and measuring a total 33.90 mm in diameter and 12.15 mm thick, this extremely complex movement is endowed with a 58-hour power reserve. It displays all its functions in a perfectly legible manner on both sides. The balance oscillates at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz).

The 47 mm-diameter 18K 5N pink gold case has been specifically designed to provide the best possible sound quality for the minute repeater.

Technical details

Model: Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus
Reference 9700C/000R-B755

Movement
Caliber 2755 GC16
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
33.90 mm diameter, 12.15 mm thick
Approximately 58 hours of power reserve
2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
839 components
42 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Front side: Hours, minutes, small second at 6 o’clock on tourbillon carriage – Minute repeater – Tourbillon – Perpetual calendar (date, day of the week, month, leap year) – Power reserve indication – Equation of time – Sunrise time – Sunset time – Alarm torque indication
Back side: Sky chart – Age and phases of the moon – Sidereal hours and minutes – Seasons, zodiac signs

Crowns and pushers
Setting Hours and minutes adjustment: winding crown (2 positions)
Moon phase adjustment: correction push-piece on the case
Perpetual calendar adjustment: two correction push-pieces on the case
Sky chart adjustment: with crown and screwed-down push-piece

Case
18K 5N pink gold with bezel and back side hand-engraved with “vine leaves” and case band hand-engraved with “vine leaves” and gem-set with 113 rubies for a total weight of approximately 1.84 cts representing bunch of grapes
47 mm diameter, 19.10 mm thick

Dials (face & back side)
Champagne opaline dials
18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers
18K 5N pink gold hands

Strap
Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Buckle: 18K 5N pink gold folding clasp and buckle hand-engraved with a “vine leaves” pattern; Half Maltese cross-shaped

Box
Les Cabinotiers Prestige box

Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen and a magnifying glass
A winder box

Edition
Single-piece edition
« Les Cabinotiers », « Pièce unique », « AC » hallmark engraved on caseback

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar, reference DB25QPATIS4

MasterHorologer

During Dubai Watch Week 2021, De Bethune launched a new DB25QP Perpetual Calendar watch with a green guilloche dial and a new titanium case featuring integrated lugs.

The De Bethune perpetual calendar is tinged with poetry and combines the finesse of watchmaking with the precision mechanics of the Manufacture by bringing together moon phase, starry sky and perpetual calendar in an exceptional timepiece. Inspired by the drum, the round case with a diameter of 44 mm, with its fine and resolutely classic lines, is subtly enhanced by the hollowed-out horns characteristic of the DB25 collection.

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar, reference DB25QPATIS4

The finesse of the decorations and the purity of the green hand-guilloche dial, radiating in 12 sectors, underline the legibility of the dial, which is built up by the assembly of ring-shaped appliques delimiting the sub-dials and the hour circle. At 12 o’clock, a sphere in palladium and black oxidized zirconium sits in a sky set with gold stars, also incorporating a leap year indicator in a gold pastille in the starry sky at 12 o’clock. The date can be read on a dial located at 6 o’clock, while the windows indicating the day of the week and the month are located at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively.

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar, reference DB25QPATIS4

The round case of the new DB25QP retains the harmonious lines that contributed to the success of the original DB25QP but is offered for the first time in titanium. This further enhances the practicality and comfort of this timepiece.

Developed in the Manufacture’s Haute Horlogerie workshops in Sainte Croix in the Swiss Jura, the automatic DB2324 caliber benefits from De Bethune’s research and technology know how. It incorporates a perpetual calendar, a spherical moon indicating the moon phases with a precision of 1 day/122 years, a self-regulating double barrel, a triple pare-chute system and a titanium/grey gold balance.

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar, reference DB25QPATIS4

A sapphire caseback allows one to admire the complexity of the movement as well as the refinement of its finishing: ¾ platinum bridge with star decoration, sandblasted and hand-colored, blued titanium balance bridge and oscillating weight arm, hand-colored white gold weight, hand-beveled and mirror-polished steels.

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar, reference DB25QPATIS4

This new perpetual calendar comes with a green textile strap with a polished titanium buckle and pin. A second leather strap accompanies it. A perfect illustration of the technical and aesthetic know-how of the Manufacture, this new reference DB25QPATIS4 is destined to replace all the DB25QPs previously presented in the current De Bethune collection.

Technical details


Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Limited Editions: The Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture and the Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture

MasterHorologer

Frederique Constant has expanded its Highlife series by presenting two stunning and exclusive Highlife Emerald limited editions: the Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture (limited to 30 pieces) and the Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture (limited to 222 pieces).

Unveiled at the Dubai Watch Week 2021, these special edition watches feature emerald green dials. A tone dear to Frederique Constant, the green colour is associated with nature, representing the source of life.

In 1999, Frederique Constant introduced the very first Highlife watches. In 2020, the Maison revived the iconic design and reintroduced the collection with resolutely modern curves rooted in the 21st century, thus adding a new dimension to the definition of accessible luxury according to Frederique Constant. The new design translates into both taut and flexible lines, the modernity of a creation that denies nothing of its craftsmanship, balance or style.

One of the key hallmarks of Highlife stamped timepieces is an integrated and interchangeable strap, offering a seamless integration with the watch case. This innovative system makes it possible to change the strap at will and without the need for tools.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture

Dedicated to frequent travelers, the Frederique Constant Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture watch boasts a globe engraved dial, combined to a contemporary 41 mm steel case.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture

The highly contemporary design of the steel case and dial with globe engraving is an ode to travel. The FC-718 manufacture calibre is designed exactly for that. The self-winding mechanical movement has a power reserve of 38 hours. It is visible through the case back, water-resistant up to 50 metres. The movement incorporates typical Genevan finishes like perlage and circular Côtes de Genève.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture

Highly user-friendly, its single crown can be used to set any function: hours, minutes, the date at 6 o’clock and the 24 cities disc that represents 24 time zones on Earth, itself engraved in the centre of the piece. There is no day / night indicator required; the inner disc has been engraved with 12 hours on the light area (cities where it is daytime) and 12 hours on the blue area (those where it is night-time).

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture

Green is the dominant colour of the Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture Limited Edition. It takes up the whole centre of the dial, as well as the date counter, for which Frederique Constant has used its unique sunray guilloché for improved legibility. This is skimmed by three central rhodium-plated hands, including luminescent hour and minute hands that are easy to read, even when travelling to the other side of the world at night.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture

The Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture is delivered with an integrated and interchangeable steel bracelet, which can be switched to an extra black rubber strap on a split second, to complement the urban feel of the watch.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

Presented in a steel case, this bold timepiece incorporates two most prestigious horological mechanisms: Tourbillon and Perpetual Calendar.

Within the 41 mm case with the integrated strap characteristic of the Highlife collection, Frederique Constant has organised its complications into four segments.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

The brand has arranged both day and date displays horizontally, so as to be read in a natural and intuitive way in a fraction of a second. Brought together in a single counter at 12 o’clock are the month (large hand) and leap year indication (small hand). Adding the finishing touch to this perfectly mastered aesthetic composition, the tourbillon balances it out at 6 o’clock, counting down the seconds with its central hand.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

The Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture is dominated by the green colour. On both sides of the complications on display, Frederique Constant has opted for a face without a dial. This allows you to see the inner workings of the FC-975 Manufacture calibre, alongside the delicate blued screws, perlage and subtle Côtes de Genève.

It also improves the contrast between the rhodium-plated movement and the perpetual calendar display. To ensure it is easy to read, the Manufacture has also been careful to give them recessed counters on two levels, so as to better capture the light.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

The FC-975 caliber is designed, produced and assembled in very limited numbers at the Geneva-based manufacture. For greater precision (an essential characteristic of the tourbillon), Frederique Constant has equipped it with a silicone escapement – both the escape wheel and the lever.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

Limited to 30 timepieces, this exclusive model is mounted on a three-link polished and satin-brushed steel bracelet, and delivered alongside a second rubber strap.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

Technical details

Model: Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture
Reference: FC-975GR4NH6B

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day, month, leap year

Movement
FC-975 caliber, automatic, tourbillon, perpetual calendar
Perlage, drafted marks and Côtes de Genève decorations
38-hour power reserve, 33 jewels, 28’800 alt/h
Silicon escapement wheel and anchor

Case
Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-part case
Diameter of 41 mm
Height of 12.65 mm
Front convex sapphire crystal
See-through case back
Water-resistant up to 5 ATM

Dial
Skeleton dial
Green outer ring with white printed second markers
Hand-polished silvered color with white luminous treatment hour and minute hands
Green day counter at 9 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hand
Green month and year counter at 12 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hands
Green date counter at 3 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hand
Open tourbillon’s cage at 6 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color second hand

Strap
Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-link bracelet
Including an additional dark green rubber strap

Edition
Limited to 30 pieces

Suggested retail price
22’995€

Model: Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture
Reference: FC-718GR4NH6B

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date by hand, worldtimer

Movement
FC-718 Manufacture caliber, automatic with all functions adjustable by the crown
Perlage& circular Côtes de Genève decoration on the movement
26 jewels, 38-hour power reserve, 28’800 alt/h

Case
Brushed and polished stainless steel3-part case
Diameter of 41 mm
Height of 12.90 mm
Front convex sapphire crystal
See-through case back
Water-resistant up to 5 ATM

Dial
Green dial, globe decoration and silver color applied indexes with white luminous treatment
24H disc with day (white) & night (green) indication
City disc with 24 cities
Hand-polished silver color with white luminous treatment hour and minute hands
Hand-polished silver color second hand
Date counter at 6 o’clock with hand-polished silver color hand

Strap
Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-link bracelet
Including an additional dark green rubber strap

Edition
Limited to 222 pieces

Suggested retail price
3’795€

 

Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture “Year of the Fiftieth” Limited Edition

MasterHorologer

Along the Eastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula are the United Arab Emirates, seven emirates united under one federation since December 2nd, 1971. In 2021, the UAE are celebrating their 50th anniversary.

As part of the Golden Jubilee celebrations, Frederique Constant and the famous watch retailer Ahmed Seddiqi&Sons announced an incredible Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture “Year of the Fiftieth” limited-edition of 50 timepieces.

Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture “Year of the Fiftieth” Limited Edition

A unique model within the Highlife collection and a first for Frederique Constant, this timepiece is fully made of titanium, from the case down to the integrated bracelet – and will be available for purchase at Seddiqi& Sons exclusively.

For this model, Frederique Constant and Ahmed Seddiqi& Sons opted for an eye-catching turquoise blue dial, an unprecedented colour in the Maison’s history. Contrasting with dark grey subdials, the famous ‘Yas’ blue colour adorning the Circuit’s run off areas was chosen as the shade most closely resembling the seas of the Gulf. Called pantone 321, the colour is unique to Yas Marina Circuit.

Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture “Year of the Fiftieth” Limited Edition

In the middle of the dial proudly stands the globe decoration, emblem of the Highlife timepieces, whose legibility is ensured by the sapphire crystal’s anti-reflective treatment on both sides. Every finishing touch is enhanced by amazing reflections – like the 41 mm case, with its alternating polished and satin finished surfaces. . Keeping with the sleekness of design, all of the perpetual calendar’s correctors have been integrated, lending emphasis to the lone crown at 3 o’clock.

Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture “Year of the Fiftieth” Limited Edition

As a perpetual calendar timepiece, the Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture “Year of the Fiftieth” is a testament to the savoir-faire that Frederique Constant has patiently amassed over the past 30 years. The Brand is one of very few to be able to design, produce, assemble and test its own watches internally, within its own Geneva-based manufacture. From the design to the final quality control, each and every step involved in making this is carried out in-house.

Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture “Year of the Fiftieth” Limited Edition

Powered by the Manufacture FC-775 self-winding mechanical movement, the Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture “Year of the Fiftieth” beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph and has a power reserve of 38 hours. For collectors and connoisseurs of fine watchmaking, the movement, featuring intricate perlage and Côtes de Genève decoration, can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback.

Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture “Year of the Fiftieth” Limited Edition

To celebrate this historic 50-years milestone, Frederique Constant and Seddiqi& Sons have engraved the oscillating weight with the “Year of the Fiftieth UAE” inscription.

In addition to the standard titanium bracelet, the watch will be provided with an extra dark grey rubber strap.

Technical details

Model: Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture “Year of the Fiftieth”
Reference: FC-775LNG4NH1B

Functions
Hours, minutes, moonphase, date, day, month, leap year

Movement
FC-775 Manufacture caliber, automatic, perpetual calendar
Perlage & circular Côtes de Genève decoration
38-hour power reserve, 26 jewels, 28’800 alt/h
“Year of the Fiftieth UAE” engraving on the rotor

Case
Polished titanium3-part case
Diameter of 41mm
Thickness of 12.65 mm
Convex sapphire crystal with anti-glare coating on both sides
See-through case back
Water-resistant up to 5 ATM

Dial
Turquoise blue dial with dark grey subdial, globe decoration and silver color applied indexes with white luminous treatment
Hand-polished silver color hour & minute hands with white luminous treatment

Bracelet
Titanium bracelet
Including an extra dark grey rubber strap

Edition
Limited to 50 pieces

Suggested retail price
39’950 AED

Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar “Rose Opaline and Dark Blue” Limited Edition

MasterHorologer

Glashütte Original presents new limited-edition Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar watch with a rose opaline dial and a dark blue leather strap. Equipped with a hand-crafted and finely finished automatic calibre 36-12 from the renowned Saxon manufactory, this timepiece will be issued in a limited edition of only 100 pieces.

Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar “Rose Opaline and Dark Blue” Limited Edition

The galvanic rose opaline dial is crafted and decorated in an elaborate process with numerous individual steps. Its silken hue contrasts splendidly with the hand-mounted blue hour appliques, which in this case consist exclusively of Roman numerals. The deep blue hue is taken up by the finely stepped calendar windows and moon phase display, and by the elegant poire hands and Louisiana alligator leather strap.

Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar “Rose Opaline and Dark Blue” Limited Edition

All calendar indications are precisely tailored to suit the various lengths of the months, lending the watch a new look day after day. Thanks to its astonishing mechanical memory, Glashütte Original‘s Perpetual Calendar won’t need to be reset until the year 2100.

Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar “Rose Opaline and Dark Blue” Limited Edition

Maintaining the much acclaimed traditions of the Glashütte watchmaking, the Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar combines filigree decoration, sophisticated mechanics and robust workmanship.

Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar “Rose Opaline and Dark Blue” Limited Edition

The transparent sapphire crystal case back offers a clear view of the highly refined finishing of the automatic movement, its skeletonized rotor and skeletonized Double-G, which renders the rotor even more delicate. The additional typical Glashütte decorations and construction features include: the characteristic three-quarter plate with refined Glashütte stripe finish, the hand-engraved balance cock, delicate perlage finishing, blued screws and fine decorative finishes on the wheels and rotor track.

Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar “Rose Opaline and Dark Blue” Limited Edition

A silicon balance spring guarantees exceptional precision, while a single spring barrel offers a power reserve of more than 100 hours. Robust stability is assured thanks to an innovative bayonet mounting, which secures the movement in the case. The handy universal corrector allows the wearer to set the day, date and month at the same time.

Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar “Rose Opaline and Dark Blue” Limited Edition

All models in the Senator Excellence series come with an exclusive certificate confirming that each and every Senator Excellence has undergone 24 days of comprehensive testing in the Saxon manufactory. A special engraving on the case back guarantees the quality of each watch. An exclusive online portal also gives owners access to detailed test scores for their watch along with information regarding the individual test procedures.

Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar “Rose Opaline and Dark Blue” Limited Edition

The new Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar in rose opaline and dark blue is limited to 100 pieces and available from end of October exclusively at Glashütte Original Boutiques and authorised dealers.

Technical details

Model name: Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar – Limited Edition
Launch year: 2021

Edition
Limited to: 100 pieces

Reference numbers
1-36-12-01-02-61 (fold fastener standard)
1-36-12-01-02-71 (metal bracelet)

Movement
Automatic winding Calibre 36-12, finely finished
Frequency: 28,800 A/h, corresponds to 4 Hz
Running time: 100 hours

Functions
Hour, minute, second, second stop, Perpetual Calendar with day of the week, month and leap year display, moon phase,
Panorama Date

Case
Stainless steel
Dimensions: Diameter: 42 mm, height: 12.8 mm

Dial
Galvanized rose opalin with blue appliques
Hands: Pear shape, blued
Front glass: Sapphire crystal, antireflective on both sides
Case back: Sapphire crystal

Strap
Blue Louisiana Alligator leather strap, stainless steel bracelet

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO in Titanium

MasterHorologer

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO is the sportier version of the award-winning LM Perpetual Calendar watch created in collaboration with Stephen McDonnell.

Designed to meet the specifications of an outdoor sports watch, this model features a 44mm diameter case and a specially developed monobloc shock-absorbing system known as “FlexRing”. The LM Perpetual EVO was first launched in zirconium with three options of PVD/CVD dial-plate colour, including atomic orange. A grade 5 titanium edition follows in 2021, with a green CVD dial plate. All editions feature a closely-fitted, integrated rubber strap.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO in Titanium

Although the 44mm diameter is unchanged from its 2015 iteration, the new EVO case design features a no-bezel construction, with the domed sapphire crystal fused directly to the case. The increased openness of this design highlights the equilibrium between the legibility of LM Perpetual EVO’s calendar indications and the cinematic play of the engine components — surmounted by the iconic MB&F hovering balance wheel.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO in Titanium

This expansive new presentation of the LM Perpetual Engine was no simple design reconfiguration. New geometries for the sapphire crystal had to be calculated, achieving the mechanically opposing aims of maintaining structural strength and decreasing its height-to-diameter ratio. Freeing LM Perpetual EVO from the bezel also necessitated the use of a sophisticated thermal bonding system between the sapphire crystal and the case.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO in Titanium

The previously circular pushers for adjusting the perpetual calendar have been enlarged into double-sprung oblong actuators, boosting the tactile comfort and ease of adjustment. For the first time in any MB&F creation, the LM Perpetual EVO is rated at 80m of water resistance, enabled by its screw-down crown.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO in Titanium

A small, but essential, detail of implementing a screw-down crown is the débrayage of the winding stem, disengaging the crown from the winding mechanism when it is pushed in and tightened, which eliminates the chance of manually over-winding the mainspring barrel.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO in Titanium

An additional new element of the LM Perpetual EVO is the FlexRing: an annular dampener fitted between case and movement, providing shock protection along the vertical and lateral axes. Machined from a single block of stainless steel, the dampener imparts exceptional robustness to the timepiece.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO in Titanium

Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO was first launched in three variations of 15 pieces each in zirconium with orange CVD dial plate, blue CVD dial plate or black PVD dial plate; and is now available in titanium with a green CVD dial plate.

Technical details

Model: MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO in Titanium

Engine
Fully integrated perpetual calendar developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell, featuring dial-side complication and mechanical processor system architecture with inbuilt safety mechanism. Manual winding with double mainspring barrels. Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement. Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings.
Galvanic black dials with both SLN numerals and hands(except for the leap year and power reserve)
FlexRing: an annular dampener fitted between case and movement, providing shock protection along the vertical and lateral axes.
Screw down crown
Power reserve: 72 hours
Balance frequency: 18,000bph/ 2.5Hz
Number of components: 581
Number of jewels: 41

Functions/indications
Hours, minutes, day, date, month, retrograde leap year and power reserve indicators

Case
Material: Zirconium or Titanium
Dimensions: 44 x 17.5mm
Number of components: 70
Water resistance: 8ATM / 80m / 270 feet

Sapphire crystals
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces

Strap & buckle
Rubber strap with titanium folding buckle

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual, in Palladium 950

MasterHorologer

In 2015, MB&F created the LM Perpetual watch in collaboration with Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell. This new reinvention of perpetual calendar has been developed to eliminate the drawbacks of conventional perpetual calendars. Equipped with a spectacular in-house movement, this Legacy Machine has been released in various editions in red gold, platinum, white gold, titanium, and yellow gold.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual, in Palladium 950

The Legacy Machine Perpetual was the winner of the Best Calendar Watch Prize at the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) in 2016.

In 2021, a new limited edition of 25 pieces joins the series. Crafted in palladium 950, this new variant features an aquamarine sunray dial varying between shades of pale blue, green and grey. This new Legacy Machine also features the ergonomic corrector pushers first seen on the LM Perpetual EVO editions.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual, in Palladium 950

Its fully integrated 581-component calibre boasts an innovative mechanism for calculating the number of days in each month. And it holistically reinterprets the aesthetics of the perpetual calendar by placing the full complication on dial-free display underneath a spectacular suspended balance.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual, in Palladium 950

Traditional perpetual calendars have a few drawbacks: dates can skip; they are relatively easy to damage if adjusted while the date is changing; and the complications are usually compromises of modules powered by base movements. The fully integrated movement of Legacy Machine Perpetual has been designed to solve these issues. No more skipping dates or jamming gears, and the adjuster pushers automatically deactivate when the calendar changes.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual, in Palladium 950

Traditional perpetual calendar mechanisms use a 31-day month as the default and basically “delete” surplus dates for the months with fewer days – by fast-forwarding through the redundant dates during changeover. A traditional perpetual calendar changing from February 28 to March 1 scrolls quickly through the 29th, 30th and 31st to arrive at the 1st.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual, in Palladium 950

The perpetual calendar system of LM Perpetual features a “mechanical processor” instead of the conventional grand levier (big lever) system architecture. The mechanical processor utilises a default 28-day month and adds extra days as required. This means that each month always has the exact number of days required; there is no fast-forwarding or skipping redundant days. And while the leap year can only be set on traditional perpetual calendars by scrolling through up to 47 months, LM Perpetual has a dedicated quickset pusher to adjust the year.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual, in Palladium 950

The open dial of LM Perpetual generously reveals the full complication and suspended balance. Using an innovative system developed especially for Legacy Machine Perpetual, the sub-dials appear to “float” above the movement with no visible attachments. The skeletonised sub-dials rest on hidden studs, which is technically impossible with traditional perpetual calendar mechanisms because they would block the movement of the grand levier.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual, in Palladium 950

At 12 o’clock and nestled between the elegant arches of the balance, is the off-set dial featuring hour and minute hands. The open-worked dial structure also features day of the week at 3 o’clock, power reserve indicator at 4 o’clock, month at 6 o’clock, retrograde leap year indicator at 7 o’clock, and date at 9 o’clock.

Technical details

Model: Legacy Machine Perpetual in palladium 950 with aquamarine face

Edition
Limited to 25 pieces

Engine
Fully integrated perpetual calendar developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell, featuring dial-side complication and mechanical processor system architecture with inbuilt safety mechanism. Manual winding with double mainspring barrels. Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement. Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings.
Power reserve: 72 hours
Balance frequency: 18,000bph/ 2.5Hz
Number of components: 581
Number of jewels: 41

Functions/indications
Hours, minutes, day, date, month, retrograde leap year and power reserve indicators

Case
Material: Palladium 950
Dimensions: 44 mm x 17.5 mm
Number of components: 69 components
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces
Water resistance: 30 m / 90′ / 3 ATM

Strap
Black, grey, brown or blue hand-stitched alligator strap with gold / platinum / titanium folding buckle matching case material.

Other versions
Platinum 950 version with blue face: limited to 25 pieces
18k red gold version with grey face: limited to 25 pieces
18k white gold version with purple face: limited to 25 pieces
18k white gold version with dark grey face
Grade 5 titanium version with green face: limited to 50 pieces
18k yellow gold version with blue face: limited to 25 pieces

IWC Schaffhausen: Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Ceratanium (Ref. IW503604) & Pilot’s Watch Timezoner TOP GUN Ceratanium (Ref. IW395505)

MasterHorologer

Swiss luxury watch brand IWC Schaffhausen welcomes two new Ceratanium® models to its TOP GUN Pilot’s Watch range. Developed by IWC’s material engineers, Ceratanium® combines the lightness and structural integrity of titanium with a hardness and scratch-resistance similar to ceramic. In addition, this innovative material is also skin-friendly and highly resistant to corrosion.

The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Ceratanium is the first watch from IWC with a Ceratanium® bracelet, which is lighter than steel and very comfortable to wear. The Pilot’s Watch Timezoner TOP GUN Ceratanium is the first TOP GUN model with a Timezoner® complication, allowing the wearer to change between different time zones effortlessly. Both novelties are powered by IWC-manufactured movements from the 52000 and 82000 calibre families.

Advanced performance materials such as ceramics, titanium and Ceratanium® are a signature feature of IWC’s TOP GUN pilot’s watches. They take their name from the legendary Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor Program, a rigorous course used by the US Navy to train its elite pilots in flying and tactical skills.

IWC’s TOP GUN watches are engineered to deliver ultimate performance and can withstand even the extreme strain pilots experience in the cockpit of a supersonic jet.

IWC Schaffhausen Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Ceratanium (Ref. IW503604)

The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Ceratanium (Ref. IW503604) features a case, crown and, for the first time, a bracelet made of Ceratanium®. As this material is based on a titanium alloy, the bracelet is around 30 percent lighter than a steel bracelet and extremely comfortable to wear.

IWC Schaffhausen Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Ceratanium (Ref. IW503604)

The black dial with gray numerals enhances the jet-black design. This TOP GUN model is powered by the IWC-manufactured 52615 calibre, visible through the tinted sapphire glass case back. The Pellaton winding system is fitted with components made of virtually wear-free ceramic and builds up a power reserve of seven days in two barrels.

IWC Schaffhausen Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Ceratanium (Ref. IW503604)

A single nightly switching impulse from the base movement drives the perpetual calendar. Its mechanical program automatically recognizes different month lengths and leap years and will require no correction until 2100.

IWC Schaffhausen Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Ceratanium (Ref. IW503604)

Another IWC speciality is the specific moon phase display, which depicts the moon as it is seen from the Northern and Southern Hemispheres. It is so precise that it will only deviate by one day after 577.5 years. The annual production of this extraordinary timepiece will be limited to 150 pieces.

The Pilot’s Watch Timezoner TOP GUN Ceratanium (Ref. IW395505) is the first TOP GUN model with a Timezoner® complication.

IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Timezoner TOP GUN Ceratanium (Ref. IW395505)

The watch can be set to a different time zone by simply pressing down and rotating the bezel. The hour hand, the 24-hour display and the date will move forwards or backwards in one-hour steps.

IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Timezoner TOP GUN Ceratanium (Ref. IW395505)

This also works across the dateline and without losing a single second. The case is made of Ceratanium®, while the city ring is manufactured from ceramic. It contains the names of 24 cities, each one representing one of the international time zones. The numerals are printed in gray on the dial, while the numbers 12, 3, 6 and 9 are coated with a luminescent material.

IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Timezoner TOP GUN Ceratanium (Ref. IW395505)

The jet-black tactical design is complemented with a tinted sapphire glass case back and a black rubber strap with textile inlay.

The IWC-manufactured 82760 calibre uses a Pellaton winding system reinforced with ceramic components to build up a power reserve of 60 hours in the mainspring. The annual production of the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner TOP GUN Ceratanium will be limited to 500 pieces.

IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Timezoner TOP GUN Ceratanium (Ref. IW395505)

The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Ceratanium and the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner TOP GUN Ceratanium are available now through IWC boutiques, authorized retail partners or online at IWC.com.

In addition, both timepieces are eligible for registration under the My IWC care program and thus benefit from a 6-year extension to the standard 2-year International Limited Warranty.

Technical details

Model: Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Ceratanium, Ref. IW503604

IWC Schaffhausen Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Ceratanium (Ref. IW503604)

Functions
Power reserve display
Perpetual Calendar with displays for the date, day, month, year in four digits and perpetual moon phase for both Northern and Southern Hemispheres
Small hacking seconds

Movement
IWC-manufactured caliber 52615
Mechanical automatic movement
Pellaton automatic winding system
Frequency: 28,800 vph / 4 Hz
Jewels: 54
Power reserve: 7 days (168 h)

Case
Ceratanium® case
Diameter: 46.2 mm
Height: 15.4 mm
Glass: Sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Screw-in crown
Glass secured against displacement caused by drops in air pressure
See-through sapphire glass back
Water-resistant: 6 bar

Dial
Black dial
Black hands

Bracelet
Ceratanium® bracelet with folding clasp

Model: Pilot’s Watch Timezoner® Top Gun Ceratanium, Ref. IW395505

IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Timezoner TOP GUN Ceratanium (Ref. IW395505)

Functions
Date display
Central hacking seconds
Timezoner® function for setting another time zone using the rotating bezel
24-hour display for Worldtimer function

Movement
IWC-manufactured caliber 82760
Mechanical automatic movement
Pellaton automatic winding
Frequency: 28,800 vph / 4 Hz
Jewels: 22
Power: reserve 60 h

Case
Ceratanium® case
Ceramic rotating bezel
Diameter: 46 mm
Height: 15.1 mm
Glass: Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Screw-in crown
Glass secured against displacement caused by drops in air pressure
Water-resistance: 6 bar

Dial
Black dial
Black hands

Strap
Black rubber strap with textile inlay and pin buckle

Patek Philippe Ref. 5374G-001 Minute Repeater with a Perpetual Calendar

MasterHorologer1 Comment

Unveiled during the Patek Philippe “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibition, this grand complication watch with minute repeater and perpetual calendar features a white-gold case with a blue grand feu enamel dial. This new model replaces the Ref. 5374P-001 in platinum with a black grand feu enamel dial.

The Ref. 5374 with a minute repeater and a perpetual calendar was introduced in 2016 in a platinum version with a black grand feu enamel dial. Now, Patek Philippe is offering a new edition in white gold with a blue grand feu enamel dial.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5374G-001 Minute Repeater with a Perpetual Calendar
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

The case shape shows the subtle and harmonious interplay of rounds and cambers. The bezel has a concave profile. The same finesse is encountered in the manually satin-finished recesses in the case flank. They contrast beautifully against the polished case segments and against the cabochons that decorate the ends of the lugs.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5374G-001 Minute Repeater with a Perpetual Calendar
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

The blue grand feu enamel dial is high-gloss finished, and features applied white-gold Breguet numerals. The displays of the perpetual calendar – day, date, month, and leap year cycle – are placed on slightly enlarged subsidiary dials, complemented with a 24-hour display. The leaf-shaped hands in white gold are filled with a luminous coating for excellent legibility. The moon-phase aperture is executed with the champlevé technique and framed in white gold.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5374G-001 Minute Repeater with a Perpetual Calendar
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

This grand complication timepiece houses the self-winding caliber R 27 Q. The minute repeater mechanism strikes on two cathedral gongs, and their extended length of nearly twice the circumference of the movement produces a full, reverberant sound.

The shiny dusk blue alligator strap is secured with a white-gold fold-over clasp. The scope of delivery includes a sapphire-crystal case back and an interchangeable solid back.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Minute Repeater with a Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 5374G-001

Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement
Caliber R 27 Q
Diameter: 28 mm
Height: 6.9 mm
Parts: 467
Bridges: 12
Jewels: 39
Power reserve: min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
Minirotor in 22K gold, unidirectional winding
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Functions
Minute repeater with “cathedral” gongs
Perpetual calendar
Day, date, month, leap year and 24-hour indication by hands
Moon phases

Dial
Blue enamel, gold applied Breguet numerals
18K gold dial plate

Case
White gold
Interchangeable full back and sapphire-crystal case back
Case is humidity and dust protected only (not water resistant)
Case diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.2 mm

Strap
Alligator leather with scare scales, hand-stitched, shiny dusk blue
Fold-over clasp

About Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 Collection

On the occasion of the “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibition in June 2021, Patek Philippe launched six exceptional wristwatches featuring artistic decorations such as manual engraving, grand feu cloisonné enamel, grand feu champlevé enamel, grand feu flinqué enamel, manual guilloching and gemsetting.

Models

…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….

Patek Philippe Ref. 6002R-001 Sky Moon Tourbillon Haut Artisanat

MasterHorologer2 Comments

On the occasion of the “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibition, Patek Philippe released a new iteration of its Ref. 6002R-001 Sky Moon Tourbillon watch featuring a hand-engraved rose-gold case with a brown dial in grand feu champlevé and cloisonné enamel

Debuted in 2001, the Ref. 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon is Patek Philippe’s second most complicated wristwatch. It is one of the grand complications most coveted by collectors and connoisseurs.

From 2013 to 2016, this double-face wristwatch was available in a rare handcrafts version with a white-gold case and a blue enamel dial (reference 6002G-001). It was followed in 2016 by a new version with a black enamel dial (reference 6002G-010).

Patek Philippe Ref. 6002R-001 Sky Moon Tourbillon Haut Artisanat
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

The new iteration released during “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” combines the warm shimmer of rose gold with brown grand feu enamel. The periphery of the dial, the moon-phase aperture, and the moon of the rotating disc are executed in champlevé enamel. With this technique, the base metal must first be precisely milled out so that individual elements such as the minute scale remain relieved.

Then, the recesses are manually filled with enamel compound. The center of the dial features a decor in grand feu cloisonné enamel that was created with the help of thin flat gold wire. The case, the crowns, the repeater slide, and the fold-over clasp are manually engraved with a motif of volutes and arabesques on all sides. The master engraver invests more than 100 hours of work and considerable patience to complete the process to the highest standards.

Patek Philippe Ref. 6002R-001 Sky Moon Tourbillon Haut Artisanat
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

The Sky Moon Tourbillon combines 12 fascinating complications, including a tourbillon and a minute repeater that strikes on cathedral gongs. The front dial shows a perpetual calendar with a retrograde date, a moon-phase display and the leap year cycle.

The other side shows a celestial chart on which the apparent motion of the moon and the stars can be viewed from the northern hemisphere. To orchestrate the grand ballet of the celestial bodies, Patek Philippe developed a system of three superposed discs that move in different, precisely calculated trajectories.

Patek Philippe Ref. 6002R-001 Sky Moon Tourbillon Haut Artisanat
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

The new Ref. 6002R-001 Sky Moon Tourbillon is delivered with hand-engraved cufflinks in rose gold. It replaces the Ref. 6002G-010 in white gold with a black grand feu enamel dial.

Technical details

Movement
Mechanical manually wound movement
Caliber R TO 27 QR SID LU CL
Third wheel in gold
Flywheel
Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 12.61 mm
Parts: 705
Bridges: 24
Jewels: 55
Power reserve: min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Spiral: Breguet
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Functions
Minute repeater with “cathedral” gongs
Tourbillon
Perpetual Calendar

Display
Front side: Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand. Day, month, leap year in apertures. Hours and minutes of mean solar time. Moon phases
Reverse side: sidereal time, sky chart, phases and orbit of the moon.

Dial
Grand Feu champlevé and cloisonné brown enamel, gold applied Roman numerals
18K gold dial plate

Case
Rose gold
Sapphire-crystal case back
Humidity-and dust-protected only (not water-resistant)
Case diameter: 44 mm. Height: 17.35 mm.

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, chestnut patinated
Hand-engraved fold-over clasp

About Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 Collection

On the occasion of the “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibition in June 2021, Patek Philippe launched six exceptional wristwatches featuring artistic decorations such as manual engraving, grand feu cloisonné enamel, grand feu champlevé enamel, grand feu flinqué enamel, manual guilloching and gemsetting.

Models

Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011: Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar with Rose Gold Case and Slate Gray Dial

MasterHorologer

Patek Philippe has expanded the Grand Complications family by launching a new version of Reference 5204 Split-Seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar watch.

This multi-complication mechanical timepiece has been available since 2016 in two rose gold versions, one with a silvered opaline dial and chocolate brown alligator strap (reference 5204R-001), the other with an opaline ebony black dial and rose gold Goutte (droplet) bracelet – Reference 5204/1R.

Patek Philippe now presents a new variation with a rose gold case and a matching slate gray dial and strap.

Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011: Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar with Rose Gold Case and Slate Gray Dial
Image Credit: PATEK PHILIPPE SA

The entirely hand-polished and sophisticatedly styled rose gold case is equipped with a concave bezel and two-tier lugs.

Despite the complexity of the movement, the indications on the “sunburst” dial stand out for their perfect legibility. The day and month are displayed in two in-line apertures at 12 o’clock. The date hand at 6 o’clock incorporates the moon-phase aperture. Small seconds and the instantaneous 30-minute counter appear on two subdials at 9 and 3 o’clock.

Two small round apertures display the leap-year cycle between 4 and 5 o’clock and the day/night indication between 7 and 8 o’clock – functions enabling accurate adjustment of the calendar. Whether by day or night, reading the time is facilitated by the applied hour-markers and Dauphine-type hands in rose gold, all with luminescent coating.

Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011: Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar with Rose Gold Case and Slate Gray Dial
Image Credit: PATEK PHILIPPE SA

The transparent sapphire caseback offers the view the CHR 29-535 PS Q Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar Caliber. First introduced in 2012 on Reference 5204P-001, this meticulously finished manual-winding movement incorporates seven patented innovations, including six for the chronograph and one for the split-seconds mechanism.

The new Reference 5204R-011 is worn on a shiny slate gray calf leather strap with an embossed alligator pattern and a rose gold fold-over clasp. Available with interchangeable sapphire crystal and solid case-backs, it is joining the two existing versions in rose gold.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011: Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar with Rose Gold Case and Slate Gray Dial

Case
18K rose gold case
Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 14.3 mm
Interchangeable solid and sapphire crystal case backs
Water-resistant to 30m

Movement
Manually wound mechanical movement. Caliber CHR 29‑535 PS Q
Diameter: 32 mm
Height: 8.7 mm
Number of parts: 496
Bridges: 12
Jewels: 34
Power reserve with the chronograph disengaged: min. 55 hours – max. 65 hours
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Breguet
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Functions
Split-Seconds chronograph
Instantaneous 30-minute counter
Perpetual calendar
Day, month, leap year and day/night indication displayed in apertures
Date indicated by hand
Moon phases
Small seconds

Dial
Slate gray sunburst, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating
18K gold dial plate

Strap
Calfskin, embossed alligator pattern, hand-stitched, shiny gray
Fold-over clasp

Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition

MasterHorologer

Frederique Constant presents a high complication watch that combines two iconic horological complications: Perpetual Calendar and Tourbillon. Belongs to the Frederique Constant Highlife collection this timepiece is available in 18 carat rose gold and stainless steel versions. The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar watch is equipped with the FC-975 Manufacture self-winding movement.

Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition

Within the 41 mm case with the integrated strap characteristic of the Highlife collection, Frederique Constant has organised its complications into four segments.

The brand has arranged the day and date counters horizontally so that they can be read in a natural and intuitive way in a fraction of a second.

Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition

Brought together in a single counter at 12 o’clock are the month (large hand) and leap year indication (small hand). Adding the finishing touch to this perfectly mastered aesthetic composition, the tourbillon balances it out at 6 o’clock, counting down the seconds with its central hand.

Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition

The FC-975 calibre is designed, produced and assembled in very limited numbers at the Geneva-based manufacture. For greater precision, Frederique Constant has equipped it with a silicone escapement – both the escape wheel and the lever.

The inner workings of this exceptional movement can be admired from any angle on the Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, on the dial side and on the back. Correctors used to set the watch are discreetly tucked away in the caseband.

Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition

The two versions are dominated by the colour blue. On both sides of the complications on display, Frederique Constant has opted for a face without a dial. This allows you to see the inner workings of the FC-975 Manufacture calibre, alongside the delicate blued screws, perlage and subtle Côtes de Genève.

Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition

It also improves the contrast between the rhodium-plated movement and the perpetual calendar display. To ensure it is easy to read, the Manufacture has also been careful to give them recessed counters on two levels, so as to better capture the light.

Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition stainless steel version

Although the Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture is strictly limited to 30 pieces for the rose gold version and 88 for the steel version, collectors can create different looks for their numbered and engraved watches. Each one comes with two straps, which can be swapped around at will, without the need for tools.

Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition rose gold case back

The rose gold version comes with a topstitched alligator leather strap, alongside a second rubber strap, reinforcing the urban and contemporary attitude that the Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture can take on in seconds.

This same rubber strap also comes with the steel watch, alongside a steel strap with a three-link design comprised of polished and satin-brushed links and a folding buckle bearing the Frederique Constant hallmark.

Technical details

Model: Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, 18K Rose Gold Version
Reference: FC-975N4NH9

Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition watch rose gold case

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day, month, leap year

Movement
FC-975 caliber, automatic, tourbillon, perpetual calendar
Perlage, drafted marks and Côtes de Genève decorations
38-hour power reserve, 33 jewels, 28’800 alt/h
Silicon escapement wheel and anchor

Case
Brushed and polished 18K rose gold 3-part case
Diameter of 41 mm
Height of 12.65 mm
Front convex sapphire crystal
See-through case back
Water-resistant up to 3 ATM

Dial
Skeleton dial
Navy blue outer ring with white printed second markers
Hand-polished rose gold-plated with white luminous treatment hour and minute hands
Navy blue day counter at 9 o’clock with hand-polished rose gold-plated hand
Navy blue month and year counter at 12 o’clock with hand-polished rose gold-plated hands
Navy blue date counter at 3 o’clock with hand-polished rose gold-plated hand
Open tourbillon’s cage at 6 o’clock with hand-polished rose gold-plated seconds hand

Strap
Navy blue alligator leather strap with nubuck finishing
Including an additional navy blue rubber strap

Edition
Limited to 30 pieces

Recommended retail price
39’995€

Model: Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, Steel Version
Reference: FC-975N4NH6B

Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day, month, leap year

Movement
FC-975 caliber, automatic, tourbillon, perpetual calendar
Perlage, drafted marks and Côtes de Genève decorations
38-hour power reserve, 33 jewels, 28’800 alt/h
Silicon escapement wheel and anchor

Case
Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-part case
Diameter of 41 mm
Height of 12,65 mm
Front convex sapphire crystal
See-through case back
Water-resistant up to 3 ATM

Dial
Skeleton dial
Navy blue outer ring with white printed second markers
Hand-polished silvered color with white luminous treatment hour and minute hands
Navy blue day counter at 9 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hand
Navy blue month and year counter at 12 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hands
Navy blue date counter at 3 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color l hand
Open tourbillon’s cage at 6 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color second hand

Strap
Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-link bracelet
Including an additional navy blue rubber strap

Edition
Limited to 88 pieces

Recommended retail price
22’995€

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, New Models Featuring Blue dial with “Grande Tapisserie” Pattern

MasterHorologer

Audemars Piguet has launched a new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar models with blue dial. Available in a choice of stainless steel or 18 carat pink gold case, this new watches feature an eye-catching dial adorned with new contrasting blue hues that engage with ambient light.

While the subdials and the inner bezel of the “Grande Tapisserie” dial encompass the iconic blue hue of the original Royal Oak, a colour referred to as “Night Blue, Cloud 50” in the Manufacture’s archives, the remaining surfaces are dressed with a lighter blue shade, offering an interesting contrast and play of light.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Steel with Blue dial / 41 mm, Reference: 26574ST.OO.1220ST.03

The topography of the dial incorporates four sub-dials granting a sense of equilibrium. The functions include a week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours and minutes.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Steel with Blue dial / 41 mm, Reference: 26574ST.OO.1220ST.03

The 41 mm case of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar has a slender profile with a thickness of just 9.5 mm and is offered in two variants: stainless steel or 18-carat pink gold.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Pink Gold with Blue dial / 41 mm, Reference: 26574OR.OO.1220OR.03

Both case options are hand-finished with satin-brushing and polished surfaces. They are paired with matching bracelets fitted with an AP folding clasp, while the chosen case material perfectly complements the blue dial tones and provides the wearer with a stylish means of self-expression.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Pink Gold with Blue dial / 41 mm, Reference: 26574OR.OO.1220OR.03

The self-winding Perpetual Calendar Calibre 5134 automatically takes into account the number of days in the month and correctly displays the prevailing date even in leap years. It requires a manual correction of date only in 2100 to stay in line with the Gregorian calendar.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Pink Gold with Blue dial / 41 mm, Reference: 26574OR.OO.1220OR.03

The slenderness of this 4.3 mm thick calibre has been achieved by re-arranging a number of components including the 22-carat open-worked oscillating weight.

The bulkiest part of the rotor is positioned to its outer edge which is recessed within a channel encircling the movement, thereby mitigating height. Likewise, a suspended barrel has provided a further means of reducing the movement’s thickness.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Steel with Blue dial / 41 mm, Reference: 26574ST.OO.1220ST.03

Visible through the sapphire caseback, Calibre 5134 highlights haute-horlogerie finishing techniques like “Côtes de Genève,” circular graining, circular satin and polished chamfers throughout.

Technical details

Movement
Self-winding Calibre 5134
Total diameter: 29 mm (12¾lignes)
Total thickness: 4.3 mm
Number of parts: 374
Number of jewels: 38
Minimum power reserve guaranteed: 40 h
Frequency of balance wheel: 2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations/hour)

Functions
Perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours and minutes

Model: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Steel with Blue dial / 41 mm, Reference: 26574ST.OO.1220ST.03

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Steel with Blue dial / 41 mm, Reference: 26574ST.OO.1220ST.03

Case
Stainless steel case
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback
Water-resistant to 20m

Dial
Blue dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, subdials and inner bezel in “Night Blue, Cloud 50” shades, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating

Bracelet
Stainless steel bracelet with AP folding clasp

Model: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Pink Gold with Blue dial / 41 mm, Reference: 26574OR.OO.1220OR.03

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Pink Gold with Blue dial / 41 mm, Reference: 26574OR.OO.1220OR.03

Case
18-carat pink gold case
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback
Water-resistant to 20m

Dial
Blue dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, subdials and inner bezel in “Night Blue, Cloud 50” shades, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating

Bracelet
18-carat pink gold bracelet with AP folding clasp

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar

MasterHorologer

In this new Haute Horlogerie timepiece, H. Moser & Cie. blends the characteristics of two iconic creations from the brand: the Perpetual 1 and the Streamliner.

Introduced in 2005, the Perpetual 1 is a distinctly minimalist and understated perpetual calendar watch. Soon it has become as one of the Manufacture’s flagship products. Launched in 2020, the Streamliner collection represents another facet of the Manufacture’s identity.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar

In 2021, H. Moser & Cie. is innovating and revisiting the Perpetual 1 movement with its instantaneous date change function as a version featuring four central hands and a resolutely contemporary look. Not only that, the brand is making this timepiece part of its Streamliner collection to create the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar

The hand-wound HMC 812 calibre has the same advantages as the HMC 341 calibre, to which a direct-drive central seconds hand has been added. Simple and inventive, the HMC 812 hand-wound movement uses the indices to indicate the months via a small red and white central hand.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar

It has a guaranteed power reserve of 168 hours, displayed at 10 o’clock on the dial via an indicator. At 4 o’clock, a window indicates the date, in large format, thanks to two superimposed discs which operate one after the other, from 1 to 15 then from 16 to 31.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar

Aligned on the crown, the date window is positioned at an unusual angle which required the numerals to be tilted to 26°. The date changes in a flash at midnight thanks to the “Flash Calendar” instantaneous date change mechanism, and it can be adjusted forwards or backwards at any time of day.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar

In constant pursuit of minimalism, the leap year indicator is located on the movement side. Visible via the sapphire case-back, the HMC 812 calibre features an ultra-contemporary finish with the traditional Moser double horizontals stripes and an anthracite grey PVD coating on the balance bridges, train wheels, barrel and escapement plate. The main plate is microblasted and features anthracite rhodium plating.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar

The Streamliner Perpetual Calendar has perfectly rounded curves, evoking the very first high-speed trains from the Twenties and Thirties whose name it adopts. This shaped watch is equipped with a steel cushion case measuring 42.3 mm in diameter and is water-resistant to 12 ATM. Its off-centre crown, adorned with an “M”, is positioned at 4 o’clock.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar

It is topped by a subtly domed Glassbox type sapphire crystal, echoed by the see-through case-back. These curves extend to the integrated steel bracelet, which is elegantly arced to follow the line of the wrist; the unique design of the links ensures that it sits perfectly on even the most slender of wrists. Highly complex in construction, this bracelet has extremely fluid lines, based on organic forms.

All the links are articulated and feature a gentle wave combining a vertical brushed finish with polished surfaces. The bezel has a sunray brushed finish; the case has alternating brushed and polished surfaces, with hollowed and satin-finished forms on the sides.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar

Around the edge of the brand’s signature fumé dial, the red and white outer minute track measures the movement of the central seconds hand. The seconds hand, the power reserve hand and the months hand are reminiscent of those on the dials of car dashboards or measuring instruments.

The manufacture has chosen three-dimensional curved hands to indicate the hours and minutes, formed of two sections and featuring inserts made from Globolight®, an innovative ceramic-based material which contains Super-LumiNova®.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar

Technical details

Model: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar
Reference 6812-1200, steel model, fumé dial, integrated steel bracelet

Case
Steel topped by a gently domed sapphire crystal
Diameter: 42.3 mm
Height without sapphire crystal: 11.0 mm
Screw-in crown at 4 o’clock adorned with an engraved “M”
See-through case-back
Water-resistant to 12 ATM

Movement
Hand-wound HMC 812 Manufacture calibre
Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15 lignes
Height: 6.3 mm
Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h
33 jewels
Power reserve: minimum 168 hours
Hacking seconds
Double barrel
Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions
Modular interchangeable Moser escapement
Original Straumann® hairspring
Gold escapement wheel and pallet fork
Screwed gold mounts
Balance bridge, train wheel bridge, barrel bridge, and escapement plate with anthracite PVD finish
Main plate, stop lever, and week wheel bridge with microblasted laser finish and anthracite rhodium plating

Functions
Hours and minutes
Direct-drive central seconds
Perpetual calendar with date and month
Big date at 4 o’clock, numerals tilted to 26°
Month indicator via red central hand
Power reserve indicator
Leap year cycle indicator on movement side

Dial
Black or fumé with sunburst pattern
H. Moser & Cie. logo in transparent lacquer
Hour and minute hands with Globolight® inserts
Central seconds, power reserve hand and months hand with white decal
Minute track for seconds and minutes
Applique indices

Bracelet
Integrated steel bracelet
Folding clasp with three steel blades, engraved with the Moser logo
Half-links available

A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual, New Blue Dial Edition

MasterHorologer

Introduced in 2001, the LANGEMATIK PERPETUAL by A. Lange & Söhne was the first mechanical wristwatch to combine a perpetual calendar with the Lange outsize date. It differs from other calendar timepieces with small but subtle features such as the ZERO-RESET mechanism and a main corrector for simultaneously advancing all calendar displays.

On the occasion of its 20th birthday, the prestigious German watch manufacture presents new editions of this iconic watch in white gold and pink gold, both combined with a blue dial, each in a 50-watch limited edition.

A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual, New Blue Dial Edition

The blue dials of both new versions of the LANGEMATIK PERPETUAL are crafted from solid silver. The applied Roman numerals, underlaid with an embossed groove structure, prominently stand out against the dark background.

A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual, New Blue Dial Edition in white gold

On the white-gold model, they are made of rhodiumed gold – just like the hands, appliques and lunar disc – and of pink gold on the pink-gold version. The hands for the hours, minutes, days of the week and month are luminous, as are the hour markers along the minute scale.

A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual, New Blue Dial Edition in pink gold

The design of the dial complies with the principle of information hierarchy, assuring the best and most intuitive legibility of the calendar displays. As the most important information element, the outsize date is prominently positioned.

The subsidiary dial on the left shows the day of the week; the one on the right displays the month. The perpetual calendar takes into account the different durations of the months in a four-year cycle, including those of the leap years.

Once the watch is correctly set, a manual adjustment of the date is not needed until the year 2100. The moon-phase display at 6 o’clock, paired with the subsidiary seconds dial, is also a long-term indication; it only requires a correction of one day every 122.6 years. All calendar displays can be advanced collectively with a (recessed) main corrector at 10 o’clock. They can also be set separately.

The self-winding L922.1 Sax-0-Mat calibre features the ZERO-RESET mechanism developed by Lange. When the crown is pulled, the balance wheel stops and the seconds hand jumps to the zero position. This simplifies and speeds up time setting.

A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual, New Blue Dial Edition watch case back view pink gold

The bidirectionally winding rotor ensures that the maximum power reserve of 46 hours is attained within just a short time on the wrist. Integrated in the three-quarter plate, it consists of 21-carat gold with a centrifugal mass in platinum. This makes the escapement with hand-engraved balance cock and classic whiplash precision index adjuster readily visible.

A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual, New Blue Dial Edition

Thanks to a movement height of merely 5.7 millimetres, the watch has a very slender silhouette. The case has a diameter of 38.5 millimetres and a height of just 10.2 millimetres.

A dark-blue leather strap with a prong buckle in white gold or pink gold complements the harmony of the timepiece.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds

MasterHorologer

On the joyous occasion of Eid in 2021, Parmigiani Fleurier released three new gem-set variations of its award-winning Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar. Diamonds, rubies and emeralds — these three gemstones were deliberately chosen to represent the national colours of countries in the Middle East.

One and a half Gregorian years after launching the Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar, Parmigiani Fleurier revisits its groundbreaking world premiere in a limited series of three gem-set models. In line with the intention of the original Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar to respect the Muslim community’s adherence to dress codes that counsel men against wearing gold ornaments, the three new Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar models are housed in platinum cases, and gold is not used for any of the movement components.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds

The new models come in cases set either with diamonds, rubies or emeralds, with the exact shade of rubies and emeralds selected specifically to pay tribute to the national colors of the countries in the Middle East region. Each gem-set variation of the Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar is limited to 10 pieces only, a true horological exclusivity.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds

When it debuted in Rabi Al-Akhar, the fourth month of the Islamic calendar, in the Hijri year 1441, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar was the first wristwatch to feature its unique eponymous complication. Perpetual calendars are sophisticated watch mechanisms that can keep track of various calendrical irregularities such as the fluctuating number of days in a month, displaying the date accurately despite these irregularities.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Diamonds

Traditionally considered one of the most prestigious watchmaking complications and featuring among the three horological functions that constitute a Grande Complication, the perpetual calendar is almost without exception configured to represent the Gregorian system.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds
Creating the automatic in-house PF009 caliber of the Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar was therefore a drastic departure from watchmaking convention. It required a completely reworked calendar mechanism that was only possible to develop through the extensive experience and skill of master watchmaker, restorer, historian and brand founder Michel Parmigiani.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Diamonds

The basis of the PF009 calibre was drawn from a Parmigiani Fleurier table clock launched in 2011, which was itself based on an antique pocket watch with an Arabic calendar display that was personally restored by Michel Parmigiani.

The three new gem-set variations of the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar balance exuberance with sobriety. The appreciation of geometric design and a mathematically abstract approach to beauty is deeply embedded in the aesthetics of Arabic culture.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Diamonds

This is reflected in the presentation of the gems, which utilize the rectilinear baguette cut, emphasizing clarity and structure. Because the baguette cut imparts comparatively less sparkle, or “fire”, than a round brilliant cut, it is imperative that all the gems used in the Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar are as internally flawless as possible and are consistent in hue.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Rubies

Other design elements that pay tribute to the Arab world include two shaped bridges of the movement, resembling the waxing and waning moon, the date bridge in the form of the Arabic symbol known as the Rub el Hizb, and the Arabesque form of the calendar levers.

The dial indications are in Arabic script, and the numbers are expressed in the Indo-Arabic numerals commonly used in the region. The guillochage decorating the winding rotor of the PF009 calibre is a signature of Parmigiani Fleurier, and is conventionally referred to as grain d’orge, or barleycorn, but its rippling wave-like pattern across the noble platinum surface of the rotor echoes another precious commodity in the arid landscapes of the Middle East — water.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Rubies

Every calendar system is different. The Gregorian calendar is a solar calendar, with 12 months of mostly 30 or 31 days (with the exception of February) calculated to fit within the tropical year of 365 days. The Chinese and Hebrew calendars are luni-solar calendars that use 12 lunar months of 29 to 30 days, inserting intercalary months at various intervals in order to stay synchronized within a few weeks of the tropical year.

The Hijri calendar operates purely on a lunar system of time reckoning, with 12 months of 29 or 30 days, but with no attempt to reconcile this system with the tropical year.

Because of this, the Hijri calendar year is consistently shorter than the Gregorian year by 10 to 11 days per cycle, resulting in months that have no fixed relationship with the seasons from one year to the next. The advantage of this system, however, is its extreme regularity when compared to the other calendar systems.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Diamonds
In the standardized Hijri calendar, months alternate between 29 and 30 days, with a base year of 354 days, known as a common year. This approximates the lunar cycle to 29.5 days, which is extremely close to the actual lunar cycle of 29.53 days.

Because of this discrepancy of 0.03 days in the calculation of the lunar cycle, occasionally there are years with an additional day — 355 instead of 354 — to make up the shortfall. These years are known as abundant years, and in each Hijri 30-year cycle, there are 19 common years and 11 abundant years.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Emeralds

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar takes all this into account, with its innovative mechanism developed entirely in-house as a result of Michel Parmigiani’s work with an antique Arabic calendar pocket watch.

The counter at 12 o’clock displays the 30-year cycle, with abundant years indicated in sand-colored script. The counter at 3 o’clock displays, using a hand, the month of the Islamic calendar, with the holy month of Ramadan indicated in red script. At 6 o’clock, an aventurine moon disc with polished moons shows the phase of the moon in the Northern Hemisphere.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Emeralds

Finally, the counter at 9 o’clock displays the date, with a circular aperture revealing a white marker if the month has 29 days and a sand-colored marker if the month has 30 days.

Technical details

Movement
Caliber PF009, Hijri Perpetual Calendar, Moonphase Indicator
Power reserve: ~48 hours, automatic bi-directional winding
Frequency: 28,800 Vph (4 Hz)
Balance wheel: variable inertia
No. of jewels: 32
No. of components: 310
Diameter: 33.8 mm
Thickness: 5.7 mm
Decoration: Côtes de Genève and snailed, bevelled bridges
Oscillating weight: platinum, Grain d’Orgeguilloché

Functions
Hijri perpetual calendar, moon phase

Model: Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Diamonds
Ref: PFH980-2010111-HA1481

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Diamonds

Case
Polished platinum set with 84 baguette-cut diamonds – 7.19 cts
Diameter: 44.60 mm
Thickness: 14.09 mm
Crown: Ø 6 mm, 1 diamond ~0.2 ct
Glass: anti reflective sapphire
Case back: sapphire glass
Engraving on case back: Hijri Perpetual Calendar, individual number X/10
Water resistance: 30 m

Dial
Color: slate
Finishing: sunray
Indices: hand-applied rhodium-plated
Moonphase: blue aventurine
Hands: Rhodium plated skeleton delta-shaped

Strap
Hermès® black alligator strap with platinum ardillon buckle

Recommended selling price
132,000 CHF

Model: Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Emeralds
Ref: PFH980-2010112-HA1481

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Emeralds

Case
Polished platinum set with 84 baguette-cut emeralds̴ 4.78cts
Diameter: 44.60 mm
Thickness: 14.09 mm
Crown: Ø 6 mm, 1 emerald ̴ 0.16ct
Glass: anti-reflective sapphire
Case back: sapphire glass
Engraving on case back: Hijri Perpetual Calendar, individual number X/10
Water resistance: 30 m

Dial
Color: slate
Finishing: sunray
Indices: hand-applied rhodium-plated
Moonphase: blue aventurine

Hands
Rhodium plated skeleton delta-shaped

Strap/bracelet
Hermès® black alligator strap with platinum ardillon buckle

Recommended selling price
152,000 CHF

Model: Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Rubies
Ref: PFH980-2010113-HA1481

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Rubies

Case
Polished platinum set with 84 baguette-cut rubies – 6.66 cts
Diameter: 44.60 mm
Thickness: 14.09 mm
Crown: Ø 6 mm, 1 ruby~ 0.22 ct
Glass: anti reflective sapphire
Case back: sapphire glass
Engraving on case back: Hijri Perpetual Calendar, individual number X/10
Water resistance: 30 m

Dial
Color: slate
Finishing: sunray
Indices: hand-applied rhodium-plated
Moonphase: blue aventurine
Hands: Rhodium plated skeleton delta-shaped

Strap
Hermès® black alligator strap with platinum ardillon buckle

Recommended selling price
132,000 CHF

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, New Blue Dial Versions

MasterHorologer

Audemars Piguet has released a new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar model offered in a choice of stainless steel or 18-carat pink gold. The dial is adorned with new contrasting blue hues.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, New Blue Dial Versions

While the subdials and the inner bezel of the “Grande Tapisserie” dial encompass the iconic blue hue of the original Royal Oak, a colour referred to as “Night Blue, Cloud 50” in the Manufacture’s archives, the remaining surfaces are dressed with a lighter blue shade.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, New Blue Dial Versions

The topography of the dial incorporates four subdials granting a sense of equilibrium. The functions include a week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours and minutes.

 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, New Blue Dial Versions

The 41 mm case of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar has a slender profile with a thickness of just 9.5 mm and is offered in two variants: stainless steel or 18-carat pink gold.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, New Blue Dial Versions

Both case options are hand-finished with satin-brushing and polished surfaces. They are paired with matching bracelets fitted with an AP folding clasp.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, New Blue Dial Versions

The self-winding Calibre 5134 driving this watch measures just 4.3 mm in height. This slender profile has been achieved by re-arranging a number of components including the 22-carat open-worked oscillating weight. The bulkiest part of the rotor is positioned to its outer edge which is recessed within a channel encircling the movement, thereby mitigating height. Likewise, a suspended barrel has provided a further means of reducing the movement’s thickness.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar self-winding Calibre 5134

Visible through the sapphire caseback, Calibre 5134 incorporates “Côtes de Genève,” circular graining, circular satin and polished chamfers throughout.

Technical details

Model: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar / 41 mm

Movement
Self-winding Calibre 5134
Total diameter: 29 mm (12¾lignes)
Total thickness: 4.3 mm
Number of parts: 374
Number of jewels: 38
Minimum power reserve guaranteed: 40 h
Frequency of balance wheel: 2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations/hour)

Functions
Perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours and minutes

Models

Reference: 26574ST.OO.1220ST.03

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, New Blue Dial Version with stainless steel case

Case
Stainless steel case
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback
Water-resistant to 20m

Dial
Blue dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, subdials and inner bezel in “Night Blue, Cloud 50” shades
White gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating

Bracelet
Stainless steel bracelet with AP folding clasp

Reference: 26574OR.OO.1220OR.03

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, New Blue Dial Version with rose gold case

Case
18-carat pink gold case
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback
Water-resistant to 20m

Dial
Blue dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, subdials and inner bezel in “Night Blue, Cloud 50” shades
Pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating

Bracelet
18-carat pink gold bracelet with AP folding clasp

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Tantalum for Only Watch

MasterHorologer

For its first participation in Only Watch, Bvlgari has created the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Tantalum.

This one-of-a-kind wristwatch reflects the characteristics of its predecessors. A Manufacture movement offering the most magical complication of all: the Perpetual Calendar, embodying mastery of all the calendar-related facets of time until February 2100. Launched in 2021, this seventh world record has so far been housed in a titanium case as well as a platinum case measuring 5.8mm thick.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Tantalum for Only Watch

For Only Watch 2021, however, Bvlgari has chosen one of the rarest metals endowed with special and unique properties: tantalum. Highly resistant to corrosion and totally biocompatible, it is used in medical engineering, the nuclear industry and electronics. Its density is 16.6 g/cm2, making it twice as heavy as steel. The material used by Bvlgari for the Only Watch is of absolute purity, verging on 100%.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Tantalum for Only Watch

While twice as hard as titanium, tantalum is still tough to machine, although bearing no resemblance to the eponymous ordeal! In other words, the machining of tantalum must take into account the programming of the machine, the instruments to be used as well as the rotation speed of the milling tools. By way of comparison, a tantalum case takes four times longer to produce than a gold case.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Tantalum for Only Watch

At its heart beats a 2.75 mm calibre testifying to miniaturisation genius. It drives the hour and minute hands as well as all the perpetual calendar functions: retrograde date display, retrograde day, month and leap-year indication. These are set by means of three correctors: one for the date at 2 o’clock, another for the month at 4 o’clock and a third for the day between 8 and 9 o’clock.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Tantalum for Only Watch

The Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Tantalum for Only Watch features a deep blue dial echoing the colour of the metal. In a nod to the objective of this one-off creation, the graphic design of the month of November recalls the Only Watch abbreviation in a symbolic shade of colour.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Tantalum for Only Watch

Technical details

Model: Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Tantalum for Only Watch

Movement
Mechanical self-winding movement, Manufacture BVL Calibre 305 measuring only 2.75mm thick, driving indications of the hours and minutes, retrograde date, day, month and retrograde leap year
60-hour power reserve

Case and dial
Tantalum case
40mm diameter, 5.80mm thick
Tantalum crown
Transparent back
Water-resistant to 30m
Blue lacquered dial

Strap
Alligator leather with tantalum pin fastener clasp