Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Limited Editions: The Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture and the Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture

Frederique Constant has expanded its Highlife series by presenting two stunning and exclusive Highlife Emerald limited editions: the Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture (limited to 30 pieces) and the Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture (limited to 222 pieces).

Unveiled at the Dubai Watch Week 2021, these special edition watches feature emerald green dials. A tone dear to Frederique Constant, the green colour is associated with nature, representing the source of life.

In 1999, Frederique Constant introduced the very first Highlife watches. In 2020, the Maison revived the iconic design and reintroduced the collection with resolutely modern curves rooted in the 21st century, thus adding a new dimension to the definition of accessible luxury according to Frederique Constant. The new design translates into both taut and flexible lines, the modernity of a creation that denies nothing of its craftsmanship, balance or style.

One of the key hallmarks of Highlife stamped timepieces is an integrated and interchangeable strap, offering a seamless integration with the watch case. This innovative system makes it possible to change the strap at will and without the need for tools.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture

Dedicated to frequent travelers, the Frederique Constant Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture watch boasts a globe engraved dial, combined to a contemporary 41 mm steel case.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture

The highly contemporary design of the steel case and dial with globe engraving is an ode to travel. The FC-718 manufacture calibre is designed exactly for that. The self-winding mechanical movement has a power reserve of 38 hours. It is visible through the case back, water-resistant up to 50 metres. The movement incorporates typical Genevan finishes like perlage and circular Côtes de Genève.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture

Highly user-friendly, its single crown can be used to set any function: hours, minutes, the date at 6 o’clock and the 24 cities disc that represents 24 time zones on Earth, itself engraved in the centre of the piece. There is no day / night indicator required; the inner disc has been engraved with 12 hours on the light area (cities where it is daytime) and 12 hours on the blue area (those where it is night-time).

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture

Green is the dominant colour of the Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture Limited Edition. It takes up the whole centre of the dial, as well as the date counter, for which Frederique Constant has used its unique sunray guilloché for improved legibility. This is skimmed by three central rhodium-plated hands, including luminescent hour and minute hands that are easy to read, even when travelling to the other side of the world at night.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture

The Highlife Emerald Worldtimer Manufacture is delivered with an integrated and interchangeable steel bracelet, which can be switched to an extra black rubber strap on a split second, to complement the urban feel of the watch.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

Presented in a steel case, this bold timepiece incorporates two most prestigious horological mechanisms: Tourbillon and Perpetual Calendar.

Within the 41 mm case with the integrated strap characteristic of the Highlife collection, Frederique Constant has organised its complications into four segments.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

The brand has arranged both day and date displays horizontally, so as to be read in a natural and intuitive way in a fraction of a second. Brought together in a single counter at 12 o’clock are the month (large hand) and leap year indication (small hand). Adding the finishing touch to this perfectly mastered aesthetic composition, the tourbillon balances it out at 6 o’clock, counting down the seconds with its central hand.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

The Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture is dominated by the green colour. On both sides of the complications on display, Frederique Constant has opted for a face without a dial. This allows you to see the inner workings of the FC-975 Manufacture calibre, alongside the delicate blued screws, perlage and subtle Côtes de Genève.

It also improves the contrast between the rhodium-plated movement and the perpetual calendar display. To ensure it is easy to read, the Manufacture has also been careful to give them recessed counters on two levels, so as to better capture the light.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

The FC-975 caliber is designed, produced and assembled in very limited numbers at the Geneva-based manufacture. For greater precision (an essential characteristic of the tourbillon), Frederique Constant has equipped it with a silicone escapement – both the escape wheel and the lever.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

Limited to 30 timepieces, this exclusive model is mounted on a three-link polished and satin-brushed steel bracelet, and delivered alongside a second rubber strap.

Frederique Constant Highlife Emerald Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

Technical details

Model: Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture
Reference: FC-975GR4NH6B

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day, month, leap year

Movement
FC-975 caliber, automatic, tourbillon, perpetual calendar
Perlage, drafted marks and Côtes de Genève decorations
38-hour power reserve, 33 jewels, 28’800 alt/h
Silicon escapement wheel and anchor

Case
Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-part case
Diameter of 41 mm
Height of 12.65 mm
Front convex sapphire crystal
See-through case back
Water-resistant up to 5 ATM

Dial
Skeleton dial
Green outer ring with white printed second markers
Hand-polished silvered color with white luminous treatment hour and minute hands
Green day counter at 9 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hand
Green month and year counter at 12 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hands
Green date counter at 3 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hand
Open tourbillon’s cage at 6 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color second hand

Strap
Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-link bracelet
Including an additional dark green rubber strap

Edition
Limited to 30 pieces

Suggested retail price
22’995€

Model: Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture
Reference: FC-718GR4NH6B

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date by hand, worldtimer

Movement
FC-718 Manufacture caliber, automatic with all functions adjustable by the crown
Perlage& circular Côtes de Genève decoration on the movement
26 jewels, 38-hour power reserve, 28’800 alt/h

Case
Brushed and polished stainless steel3-part case
Diameter of 41 mm
Height of 12.90 mm
Front convex sapphire crystal
See-through case back
Water-resistant up to 5 ATM

Dial
Green dial, globe decoration and silver color applied indexes with white luminous treatment
24H disc with day (white) & night (green) indication
City disc with 24 cities
Hand-polished silver color with white luminous treatment hour and minute hands
Hand-polished silver color second hand
Date counter at 6 o’clock with hand-polished silver color hand

Strap
Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-link bracelet
Including an additional dark green rubber strap

Edition
Limited to 222 pieces

Suggested retail price
3’795€

 

Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition

Frederique Constant presents a high complication watch that combines two iconic horological complications: Perpetual Calendar and Tourbillon. Belongs to the Frederique Constant Highlife collection this timepiece is available in 18 carat rose gold and stainless steel versions. The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar watch is equipped with the FC-975 Manufacture self-winding movement.

Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition

Within the 41 mm case with the integrated strap characteristic of the Highlife collection, Frederique Constant has organised its complications into four segments.

The brand has arranged the day and date counters horizontally so that they can be read in a natural and intuitive way in a fraction of a second.

Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition

Brought together in a single counter at 12 o’clock are the month (large hand) and leap year indication (small hand). Adding the finishing touch to this perfectly mastered aesthetic composition, the tourbillon balances it out at 6 o’clock, counting down the seconds with its central hand.

Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition

The FC-975 calibre is designed, produced and assembled in very limited numbers at the Geneva-based manufacture. For greater precision, Frederique Constant has equipped it with a silicone escapement – both the escape wheel and the lever.

The inner workings of this exceptional movement can be admired from any angle on the Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, on the dial side and on the back. Correctors used to set the watch are discreetly tucked away in the caseband.

Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition

The two versions are dominated by the colour blue. On both sides of the complications on display, Frederique Constant has opted for a face without a dial. This allows you to see the inner workings of the FC-975 Manufacture calibre, alongside the delicate blued screws, perlage and subtle Côtes de Genève.

Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition

It also improves the contrast between the rhodium-plated movement and the perpetual calendar display. To ensure it is easy to read, the Manufacture has also been careful to give them recessed counters on two levels, so as to better capture the light.

Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition stainless steel version

Although the Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture is strictly limited to 30 pieces for the rose gold version and 88 for the steel version, collectors can create different looks for their numbered and engraved watches. Each one comes with two straps, which can be swapped around at will, without the need for tools.

Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition rose gold case back

The rose gold version comes with a topstitched alligator leather strap, alongside a second rubber strap, reinforcing the urban and contemporary attitude that the Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture can take on in seconds.

This same rubber strap also comes with the steel watch, alongside a steel strap with a three-link design comprised of polished and satin-brushed links and a folding buckle bearing the Frederique Constant hallmark.

Technical details

Model: Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, 18K Rose Gold Version
Reference: FC-975N4NH9

Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition watch rose gold case

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day, month, leap year

Movement
FC-975 caliber, automatic, tourbillon, perpetual calendar
Perlage, drafted marks and Côtes de Genève decorations
38-hour power reserve, 33 jewels, 28’800 alt/h
Silicon escapement wheel and anchor

Case
Brushed and polished 18K rose gold 3-part case
Diameter of 41 mm
Height of 12.65 mm
Front convex sapphire crystal
See-through case back
Water-resistant up to 3 ATM

Dial
Skeleton dial
Navy blue outer ring with white printed second markers
Hand-polished rose gold-plated with white luminous treatment hour and minute hands
Navy blue day counter at 9 o’clock with hand-polished rose gold-plated hand
Navy blue month and year counter at 12 o’clock with hand-polished rose gold-plated hands
Navy blue date counter at 3 o’clock with hand-polished rose gold-plated hand
Open tourbillon’s cage at 6 o’clock with hand-polished rose gold-plated seconds hand

Strap
Navy blue alligator leather strap with nubuck finishing
Including an additional navy blue rubber strap

Edition
Limited to 30 pieces

Recommended retail price
39’995€

Model: Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, Steel Version
Reference: FC-975N4NH6B

Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Limited Edition

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day, month, leap year

Movement
FC-975 caliber, automatic, tourbillon, perpetual calendar
Perlage, drafted marks and Côtes de Genève decorations
38-hour power reserve, 33 jewels, 28’800 alt/h
Silicon escapement wheel and anchor

Case
Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-part case
Diameter of 41 mm
Height of 12,65 mm
Front convex sapphire crystal
See-through case back
Water-resistant up to 3 ATM

Dial
Skeleton dial
Navy blue outer ring with white printed second markers
Hand-polished silvered color with white luminous treatment hour and minute hands
Navy blue day counter at 9 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hand
Navy blue month and year counter at 12 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hands
Navy blue date counter at 3 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color l hand
Open tourbillon’s cage at 6 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color second hand

Strap
Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-link bracelet
Including an additional navy blue rubber strap

Edition
Limited to 88 pieces

Recommended retail price
22’995€

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar – Planetaria

Unveiled at the digital Watches and Wonders event in April 2021 by Vacheron Constantin, the Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar – Planetaria is a single-piece edition timepiece with a retrograde jumping perpetual calendar regulated by a double-axis tourbillon and complemented by a three-dimensional representation of the two hemispheres designed to provide 24-hour and day/night indications.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar – Planetaria

Equipped with a new Calibre 1991 in-house movement, this timepiece celebrates the astronomical function par excellence: the perpetual calendar with precision moon phases. With its retrograde date appearing along a right-hand arc on the dial, as well as its circular retrograde month and day indications framing depictions of the Earth’s two hemispheres providing day/night indications, this timepiece is also regulated by a double-axis tourbillon.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar – Planetaria

Extraordinarily complex with its 745 components, mechanical manual-winding Calibre 1991 is the result of a four-year development process. It powers two rotating globes representing the Earth’s hemispheres, regulated by a double-axis armillary tourbillon. It corresponds to an innovative interpretation of the perpetual calendar, the astronomical complication par excellence which “reads off” the specificities of the calendar without requiring any adjustments before 2100.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar – Planetaria

Another distinctive feature lies in the retrograde displays of the perpetual calendar’s days, dates and months. Mounted on ball bearings to ensure smooth, linear operation, the date display follows a circular arc to the right of the hours and minutes dial.

In keeping with the watch’s astronomical vocation, the centre of the timekeeping dial bearing hour-markers is dedicated to the moon phases. These appear according to their respective evolution in the two hemispheres, in perfect symmetry with the two rotating globes, and with a degree of precision requiring a mere one-day correction every 122 years.

The perpetual calendar functions continue with the leap year appearing through a 5 o’clock aperture, along with circular day and month indications at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock based on a jumping retrograde pallet-type display system.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar – Planetaria

In the centre of the two counters, the two globes representing the Northern and Southern hemispheres perform complete rotations in opposite directions on a graduated 24-hour scale around the rim. The shaded areas of the domed sapphire crystal used for the day/night indication have been positioned in such a way that the armillary tourbillon resembles a sun darting its rays across the surface of the Earth.

Making the super-thin (0.35 mm) sapphire crystal featuring the domes and extending over the retrograde date display required a great deal of ingenuity. A crown-integrated pusher enables simultaneous adjustment of the world-time function of the two globes.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar – Planetaria

In an additional challenge for the movement’s designers, who are consistently concerned with achieving optimal balance and aesthetic appeal, they had to imagine and design a retrograde system for the day and month indications leaving sufficiently ample space to admire the beating of the bi-axial armillary tourbillon with its spherical balance-spring.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar – Planetaria

The complex mechanics of Calibre 1991 are perfectly epitomised in its armillary tourbillon, a technical challenge as well as a spectacular sight in itself. This movement regulating device endowed with a 60-hour power reserve benefited from the research conducted on the world’s most complicated timepiece, Reference 57260.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar – Planetaria

This construction is positioned on the left side of the piece, beneath the sapphire crystal ‘bubble’. Forming a sphere in perpetual motion, the tourbillon was named “armillary” in reference to French watchmaker Antide Janvier, who towards the end of the 18th century invented a moving planetary sphere known as an armillary, and regarded as one of his most accomplished masterpieces.

Another technical feature of the mechanism of this piece is the cylindrical balance-spring coupled with the balance. Invented by Jacques-Frédéric Houriet in 1814, this variant devoid of terminal curves gives the tourbillon a perfectly concentric beat, thereby ensuring enhanced isochronism.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar – Planetaria

In order to transmit to this balance-spring the impulses corresponding to a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz), Vacheron Constantin has developed an escapement consisting of a silicon escape-wheel and a lever with diamond pallets, materials reducing friction without any need for lubrication and thus increasing the precision of the mechanism.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar – Planetaria

Every single detail of the finishes gracing this single-piece edition highlights this ingenious astronomical orchestration of time. Two galvanically treated titanium globes weighing barely 0.12 grams rotate gently on the finely grained dial.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar – Planetaria

The 24-hour counters surrounding them are circular satin-finished with transfers, while the day, month and date indications are printed beneath the sapphire crystal.

The timekeeping dial features Roman numerals in the form of polished gold appliques. These Haute Horlogerie finishes are beautifully framed by an 18K 5N pink gold case measuring 46 mm in diameter and fitted with an alligator leather strap.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar – Planetaria

In the Vacheron Constantin universe, Les Cabinotiers represents a department in its own right dedicated to the personalisation of Grand Complication models and single-piece editions. Each year, the Les Cabinotiers department unveils a range of single-piece editions relating to a theme cherished by Vacheron Constantin. The year 2021 is dedicated to “Le Temps Céleste” (which means Celestial Time), with timepieces referring to the astronomical origins of time measurement.

Technical details

Collection: Les Cabinotiers
Model: Armillary Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar – Planetaria
Reference 9820C/000R-B707

Movement
Calibre 1991
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical manual winding
35 mm diameter, 11.20 mm thick
Movement power reserve: approximately 60h
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
745 components
94 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours and minutes
Double-axis armillary tourbillon
Perpetual calendar
Retrograde date, day and month
Moon phases in Northern and Southern hemispheres
Northern and Southern day/night and 24h indication

Case
18K 5N pink gold
46 mm diameter, 20.20 mm thick

Dials (front & back)
18K gold, opaline silvered dial
18k 5N pink gold hands

Strap
Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp: 18K 5N pink gold folding clasp

Presentation box
Les Cabinotiers model

Edition
Unique piece
“Les Cabinotiers”, “Pièce unique”, “AC” hallmark engraved on caseback

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon (Ref. 5045)

The newly released IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon (Ref. 5045) brings together the two complications that give the watch its name. Two References are available, both limited to 50 each. One will be available as a Boutique Edition with an 18-carat Armor Gold® case, while the second will be available in platinum.

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon, Ref. IW504504 Boutique Edition: 18-carat Armor Gold® case, blue dial, gold-plated hands, 18-carat gold appliques, blue alligator leather strap by Santoni.
IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon, Ref. IW504504 Boutique Edition: 18-carat Armor Gold® case, blue dial, gold-plated hands, 18-carat gold appliques, blue alligator leather strap by Santoni.
IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon, Ref. IW504505: Platinum case, silver-plated dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, blue alligator leather strap by Santoni.
IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon, Ref. IW504505: Platinum case, silver-plated dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, blue alligator leather strap by Santoni.

The IWC-manufactured 51950 calibre combines a perpetual calendar with a tourbillon that has 82 individual parts and weighs only 0.635 grams. To make it visible at 12 o’clock, the calendar module’s advance ring was opened, and the moon phase integrated into the month display at 6 o’clock.

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon, Ref. IW504504 Boutique Edition caseback

With its 18-carat gold rotor, the automatic winding system builds up a large, seven-day power reserve. The perpetual calendar’s mechanical programme automatically recognises the different lengths of the months and adds an extra day at the end of February every four years. The moon phase display is so precise that it will need adjusting by one day after 577.5 years.

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon, Ref. IW504505 Platinum caseback

Technical details

Model: IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Ref.IW5045

Functions
Perpetual calendar with displays for the day, date, month, year in four digits and perpetual moon-phase
Flying minute tourbillon at 12 o‘clock
Power reserve display

Movement
IWC manufacture calibre 51950
Mechanical movement
Frequency: 19,800 vph/2.75 Hz
Jewels: 54
Power reserve: 7 days (168 h)
Winding: Automatic
18-carat gold oscillating weight

Case, dial and strap

  • Ref. IW504504: 18-carat Armor Gold® case, blue dial, gold-plated hands, 18-carat gold appliques, 18-carat gold oscillating weight, blue alligator leather strap by Santoni
  • Ref. IW504505: Platinum case, silver-plated dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, 18-carat gold oscillating weight, blue alligator leather strap by Santoni

Glass: Sapphire, arched edge, anti-reflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 45 mm
Height: 15.3 mm
See-through sapphire glass back

Edition
Limited to 50 watches

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Dragon and the Pearl

This one-of-a-kind horological masterpiece showcases the high level expertise of Chopard’s Mains d’art. The L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Dragon and the Pearl watch proudly features dragon engravings inspired by China’s founding myths are shown to stunning effect on the hand-engraved case middle.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Dragon and the Pearl

Tales of Ancient China almost inevitably evoke the dragon, a central animal in the founding myths of the Celestial Empire’s first dynasties. They tell of the fabled five-clawed dragons serving the emperor in the quest for the sacred pearl leading to wisdom and knowledge.

It is precisely this legendary vision of China that Chopard has decided to express through its L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Dragon and the Pearl timepiece, a one-of-a-kind model which, like a sacred pearl, ushers the observer into a world of emotions.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Dragon and the Pearl

The task of engraving the 18-carat rose gold was entrusted to the Mains d’art of the Maison. This exquisitely refined figurative work has been crafted using the fine line engraving technique so as to highlight two dragons on the case middle and space between the lugs, chasing after the sacred pearl depicted on the crown. More specifically, this allegory represents two Tian Long dragons, creatures of the sky and symbols of the soul’s elevation to a state of pure consciousness.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Dragon and the Pearl

To complete the scenography, the solid gold dial of the L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Dragon and the Pearl is adorned with an engraved motif drawn from traditional Chinese iconography, like those appearing on the rose gold bezel and buckle. The scrolling patterns of the watch case are thus matched by the pleasing geometry of its face.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Dragon and the Pearl

This model with its L.U.C 02.15-L movement and featuring two stellar horological complications is no exception to these abiding principles of excellence. The 353-part movement of the L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Dragon and the Pearl is equipped with a tourbillon regulator whose carriage, carrying the small seconds indicator, rotates once a minute beneath its polished steel bridge at 6 o’clock.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Dragon and the Pearl

Complementing the display is a perpetual calendar requiring no correction until the year 2100, since only century years divisible by 400 are leap years, making 2100 a common year. To ensure perfect readability of the calendar indications, they are spread over two dials – one at 3 o’clock for the month and leap years and another at 9 o’clock for the day and the 24-hour indication – along with a large twin-aperture date rounding off the symmetry of the dial at 12 o’clock.

Chopard perpetual calendar with tourbillon movement L.U.C 02.15-L

Thanks to its tourbillon calibre, a prestigious early 19th century watchmaking invention designed to compensate for the effects of gravity on watch mechanisms, the L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Dragon and the Pearl timepiece is well-equipped to achieve a high degree of precision: a requirement laid down by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co-president of Chopard, who insists that all L.U.C watches from the Manufacture be certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

Chopard perpetual calendar with tourbillon movement L.U.C 02.15-L

This is what makes it possible to place the title of “Chronometer” on the dial of the L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Dragon and the Pearl, in addition to the ‘Poinçon de Genève’ quality hallmark stamped on the back, one of the most demanding watch industry labels.

To ensure optimal user friendliness, the watch is also equipped with Chopard Quattro technology, based on four series-coupled barrels ensuring a nine-day power reserve indicated on the back of the watch.

Technical details

Model: Chopard L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Dragon and the Pearl
Ref. 161941-5006 – in 18-carat rose gold
One-of-a-kind creation

Case
18-carat rose gold
Total diameter: 43 mm
Thickness: 15.02 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
18-carat rose gold crown with hand engraving 6.50 mm
Case middle hand-engraved with motifs inspired by the imaginary world of the tale of The Dragon and the Pearl
Bezel hand-engraved with motifs inspired by Chinese iconography
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Exhibition back

Movement
Mechanical hand-wound movement L.U.C 02.15-L
Number of components: 353
Total diameter: 33.00 mm
Thickness: 9.35 mm
Number of jewels: 31
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: approx. 216 hours(approx. 9 days)
Four barrels – Chopard Quattro Technology
Tourbillon regulator, stainless steel bridge with gilded screws
Balance-spring with Phillips terminal curve
Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève motif
Chronometer-certified (COSC)
‘Poinçon de Genève’ quality hallmark

Dial
Galvanic satin-brushed sunburst ruthenium-coloured 18-carat gold dial
Hand-engraved decor
Perpetual calendar subdials (twin-aperture large date, day of the week and 24-hour indication, months and leap years).
Gilded Dauphine fusée-type hours and minutes hands
Gilded baton-type hands for small seconds, day and month indications as well as the power-reserve display
Gilded white-tipped triangular-shaped hands for the day/night and leap-year indications

Functions
Central display of the hours and minutes
Small seconds and tourbillon at 6 o’clock
Large date at 12 o’clock
Perpetual calendar
Power-reserve indicator on the case-back side

Strap
Hand-sewn black alligator leather strap with alligator lining
18-carat rose gold pin buckle hand-engraved with motifs inspired by Chinese iconography

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon, White Gold Case with Pink Gold Dial

At SIHH 2019 in Geneva, A. Lange & Söhne unveiled a new Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon model (reference 740.056) featuring a white gold case with pink gold dial.

This watch incorporates a unique combination of a flyback chronograph, a perpetual calendar with moonphases, a tourbillon with stop seconds, and a power-reserve indicator.

A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON in Pink Gold Reference 740.056

The DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON was launched in 2016. The term DATOGRAPH refers to a flyback chronograph with a precisely jumping minute counter and the typical Lange outsize date. PERPETUAL stands for its perpetual calendar with precisely jumping displays combined with a moon-phase indication calculated to remain accurate for 122.6 years.

A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON in Pink Gold Reference 740.056

Finally, the TOURBILLON part alludes to the one-minute tourbillon with patented stop seconds that is visible on the caseback side; it eliminates the influence of gravity on the escapement inside its cage. The well organised arrangement of the time, calendar and chronograph displays is rounded off with a power-reserve indicator at the end of the tachymeter scale.

A first 100-watch edition in platinum with a black dial is now followed by a second edition of 100 watches in white gold with a pink-gold dial. The new hue enriches the deliberately reduced spectrum of A. Lange & Söhne with a warmer nuance that creates a pleasant contrast to the cool charisma of the 41.5-millimetre white-gold case and the rhodiumed gold hands and appliques.

A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON in Pink Gold Reference 740.056

The development of the DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON is powered by an impressive success story that began with the presentation of the first DATOGRAPH in 1999. Its rare combination of a classic column-wheel design, a precisely jumping minute counter and the flyback function attracted considerable attention. The clearly structured dial layout, in which the Lange outsize date and the two subsidiary dials form an equilateral triangle, gave it the status of a timeless icon.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon, White Gold Case with Pink Gold Dial

The DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON’s larger diameter made it possible to enlarge the subsidiary dials that accommodate the displays of the perpetual calendar. The subsidiary seconds, the day of the week and the day/night indicator are on the left side, while the precisely jumping minute counter, the months, and the leap-year indicator are on the right.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Movement Calibre L952.2

Three recessed correctors make it possible to adjust the moon phase, the day, and the month separately. A universal button at 10 o’clock advances all calendar displays collectively.

The sapphire-crystal caseback reveals the L952.2 manufacture calibre that consists of 729 parts. Finished manually down to the last detail, its complexity reflects the ambition of A. Lange & Söhne to continue to redefine the limits of mechanical watchmaking.

Technical details

Model: A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON in Pink Gold
Reference 740.056

Movement
Calibre L952.2

Functions
Hour and minute, small second, tourbillon with patented stop seconds, flyback chronograph with precisely jumping minute counter, tachometer scale, perpetual calendar with outsize date, day of the week, month, leap year, day/night indicator, moon-phase display, power reserve indicator.

Case
White gold
Diameter: 41.5 mm
Height: 14.6 mm

Dial
Solid pink gold
Hands: Blued steel, rhodiumed

Edition
Limited to 100 timepieces

Image Credit: Lange Uhren GmbH

Chopard L.U.C All-in-One – Platinum and Rose Gold Limited Editions

Chopard presents two versions – in platinum and rose gold – of the exclusive and ultra-complicated L.U.C 150 All-in-One watch that was originally introduced in 2010 in white gold edition to mark the company’s 150th anniversary.

The L.U.C All-in-One watch encompasses 14 indications on its two faces, including perpetual calendar and astronomical functions, as well as a tourbillon.

Chopard L.U.C All-in-One limited edition Platinum watch

Entirely crafted in the Chopard Haute Horlogerie workshops, this tourbillon watch with perpetual calendar and astronomical indications comes in two 10-piece limited series: 10 in platinum and 10 in 18-carat rose gold.

Chopard L.U.C All-in-One grand complication watch Platinum version

Platinum version of the L.U.C All-in-One watch features an elegant hand-guilloché dial in a grey-blue colour and the rose gold model comes with an eye-catching hand-guilloché dial in a verdigris colour obtained by galvanic treatment.

Chopard L.U.C All-in-One limited edition Rose Gold watch

Combining extreme complexity with the assured and distinctive elegance of the L.U.C collection, these timepieces bear the prestigious Poinçon de Genève stamp certifying Chopard’s exclusive craftsmanship and in-house manufacturing capabilities.

Chopard L.U.C All-in-One grand complication watch Rose gold version

Designed for contemporary gentlemen, sure of their taste and fascinated by exceptional mechanisms, the L.U.C All-in-One is a symbol of Fine Watchmaking for the Maison Chopard. This grand complication watch subtly proclaims its horological sophistication on both sides and throughout the entire seven days of its exceptional power reserve.

Chopard hand-wound L.U.C 05.01-L grand complication movement

The Chopard L.U.C All-in-One grand complication watch is equipped with L.U.C Calibre 05.01-L. With its 516 components, this movement comprises the largest number of complications ever offered within a single L.U.C watch. Its 14 indications spread between its twin faces sum up the broad range of skills mastered by Chopard Manufacture. Equipped with four barrels, this mechanical hand wound caliber can deliver seven days of exceptional power reserve.

Chopard L.U.C All-in-One movement

The L.U.C All-in-One is graced with exceptional finishing throughout. The 46 mm case with its polished and satin-brushed surfaces is extremely ergonomic and thus makes a perfect fit on the wrist. All the case-back inscriptions are hand-engraved.

The dial is a solid gold plate with a guilloché motif radiating out from the large date at 12 o’clock. It is then coloured in grey blue to match platinum, and in verdigris for a bold combination with 18-carat rose gold. Even more meticulous concern for detail has been lavished on the 516 movement components, hand-crafted in accordance with the noblest traditional techniques.

The ergonomic and horological quality of the L.U.C All-in-One is also apparent in the legibility of its numerous complications. Each sector, indicator and gauge is perfectly sized. All clearly and generously display their respective information on exceptionally finely crafted dials.

On the front side, the perpetual calendar with large date display appears through large apertures and subdials, alongside a magnificently wrought tourbillon.

Chopard L.U.C All-in-One grand complication watch Platinum version case-back view

On the back, the equation of time, power reserve and sunrise and sunset times frame the orbital moon-phase indication.

Chopard L.U.C All-in-One grand complication watch rose gold version case-back view

Limited to 10 pieces, the L.U.C. All-in-One Rose Gold version is fitted with a brown alligator leather strap where as the Platinum variant (also limited to 10 pieces) come with a blue alligator leather strap.

Technical details

Model: Chopard L.U.C All in One 18-carat Rose gold, Limited edition of 10 pieces

Chopard L.U.C All-in-One Rose Gold watch

Case
18-carat rose gold
Diameter: 46.00 mm
Thickness: 18.50 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
18-carat rose gold crown with L.U.C logo: 8.50 mm
Vertical satin-brushed case middle
Glareproofed sapphire crystal
Polished bezel and case-back, hand-engraved case-back
Exhibition case-back with fitted glareproofed sapphire crystal

Movement
Mechanical hand-wound L.U.C 05.01-L
Number of components: 516
Total diameter: 33.00 mm
Thickness: 11.75 mm
Number of jewels: 42
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Four barrels – Quattro technology
Power reserve: approx. 170 hours (7 days)
Chronometer-certified (COSC)
Poinçon de Genève

Dial and hands
Hand-guilloché dial in a verdigris colour obtained by galvanic treatment
Black and red transfers
Snailed hollowed counters
Gilded hour-markers
Snailed silver-toned exterior
Gilded Dauphine fusée-type hands for the hours and minutes
Gilded baton-type hands for small second display, perpetual calendar, equation of time and 24-hour day/night indication
Red hands for the power reserve and the sunrise and sunset indications

Functions
Dial side
Central display of the hours and minutes
Small seconds on a tourbillon at 6 o’clock
Perpetual calendar with 24h indication and day of the week indication at 9 o’clock
Display of the month and leap year at 3 o’clock
Aperture-type large date display at 12 o’clock

Movement side
equation of time, power reserve, 24-hour day/night indication, sunrise and sunset times set to Geneva and astronomical orbital moon phase

Strap 
Hand-stitched brown alligator leather with brown alligator leather lining
Polished 18-carat rose gold folding clasp

Edition
Ref. 161925-5002 – in 18-carat rose gold with alligator leather strap
10-piece limited edition

Model: Chopard L.U.C All-in-One Platinum, Limited edition of 10 pieces

Chopard L.U.C All-in-One Platinum watch

Case
950 platinum
Diameter: 46.00 mm
Thickness: 18.50 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
18-carat white gold crown with L.U.C logo: 8.50 mm
Vertical satin-brushed case middle
Glareproofed sapphire crystal
Polished bezel and case-back, hand-engraved case-back
Exhibition case-back with fitted glareproofed sapphire crystal

Movement
Mechanical hand-wound L.U.C 05.01-L
Number of components: 516
Total diameter: 33.00 mm
Thickness: 11.75 mm
Number of jewels: 42
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Four barrels – Quattro technology
Power reserve: approx. 170 hours (7 days)
Chronometer-certified (COSC)
Poinçon de Genève

Dial 
Hand-guilloché dial in a grey-blue colour obtained by galvanic treatment
Black, white and red transfers
Snailed hollowed counters
Snailed silver-toned exterior
Rhodium-plated hour-markers
Rhodium-plated Dauphine fusée-type hands for the hours and minutes
Rhodium-plated baton-type hands for the small second display, perpetual calendar, equation of time and 24-hour day/night indication
Red hands for the power reserve and the sunrise and sunset indications

Functions

Dial side
Central display of the hours and minutes
Small seconds on a tourbillon at 6 o’clock
Perpetual calendar with 24h indication and day of the week indication at 9 o’clock
Display of the month and leap year at 3 o’clock
Aperture-type large date display at 12 o’clock

Movement side
Display of the equation of time, power reserve, 24-hour day/night indication, sunrise and sunset times set to Geneva and astronomical orbital moon phase

Strap 
Hand-stitched blue alligator leather with brown alligator leather lining
Polished 18-carat white gold folding clasp

Edition
Ref. 161925-9003 – in platinum with alligator leather strap
10-piece limited edition

IWC Schaffhausen Jubilee Collection – Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “150 Years”, Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Edition “150 Years”, Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Edition “150 Years”, Portugieser Chronograph Edition “150 Years” and Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “150 Years”

Celebrating its 150th anniversary in 2018, IWC Schaffhausen unveiled five limited-edition Portugieser wristwatches at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva as part of the Jubilee collection.

The Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “150 Years” is one of the most technically sophisticated watches in the collection and combines a constant-force tourbillon with a simple moon phase display for the very first time.

The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Edition “150 Years” brings a perpetual calendar together with a tourbillon on the dial for the first time ever. IWC is also launching a Portugieser with a perpetual calendar in the design of the Jubilee collection and fitting the Portugieser Chronograph with an IWC-manufactured calibre.

An anniversary edition of the Portugieser Hand-Wound is also being launched for fans of hand-wound watches.

All timepieces feature the design of the Jubilee collection. Their distinguishing features are the dials produced using a complex lacquering process in white or blue.

IWC Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “150 Years”

The Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “150 Years” (Ref. 5902) represents a technical highlight of the Jubilee collection.

IWC Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “ 150 Years” watch platinum version with white dial Ref. IW590202

A total of 15 watches will be made for each model:
– Platinum, white dial with lacquered finish, blued hands (Ref. IW590202)
– Platinum, blue dial with lacquered finish, rhodium-plated hands (Ref. IW590203)

IWC Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “ 150 Years” Platinum watch with blue dial Ref. IW590203

Technical details

Model: IWC Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “ 150 Years” Ref. IW590202/ IW590203

Functions
Power reserve display
Tourbillon with integrated constant force mechanism
Perpetual moon phase display

Movement
IWC-manufactured calibre 94805
Mechanical Hand-wound movement
Frequency: 18,000 A/h | 2.5 Hz
Jewels: 41
Power reserve: 4 days (96 h)
Jubilee medallion in 18-carat gold on back of movement

Case, dial and strap

  • Ref. IW590202: Platinum case, white dial with lacquered finish, black printed indices and numerals, blued hands, black alligator leather strap by Santoni
  • Ref. IW590203: Platinum case, blue dial with lacquered finish, white printed indices and numerals, rhodium-plated hands, black alligator leather strap by Santoni

Diameter: 46 mm
Height: 13.5 mm
See-through sapphire-glass back
Glass: Sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant: 3 bar

Edition
Limited edition of 15 watches each

IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Edition “150 Years” (Ref. IW504501)

For the first time, the new IWC-manufactured hand-wound 94805 calibre with a power reserve of 96 hours combines a constant-force tourbillon with a simple Portugieser Perpetual Calendar moon phase display that only needs to be adjusted by 1 day after 577.5 years.

The patented constant-force mechanism transmits completely even impulses to the escape wheel. In conjunction with the tourbillon, which compensates for the negative influences of gravity on the watch’s oscillating system, this allows for an exceptionally high level of precision.

IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Edition “150 Years” (Ref. IW504501)

With the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Edition “150 Years” (Ref. IW504501), IWC is combining a perpetual calendar with a tourbillon on the dial for the first time. The watch is available in a limited edition of 50: 18-carat red gold, white dial with lacquered finish, blued hands (Ref. IW504501).

IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Edition “150 Years” (Ref. IW504501)

This combination is possible thanks to the newly developed IWC- manufactured 51950 calibre. This is an extension of the 51900 calibre, with the addition of a perpetual calendar.

Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Edition “150 Years” (Ref. IW504501)

Made of 82 individual components and weighing just 0.635 grams, the tourbillon is visible at “12 o’clock” because the watch designers opened up the calendar advance ring and integrated the moon phase in the month display disc at “6 o’clock”.

With its solid gold rotor, the automatic winding system generates a power reserve of 7 days.

Technical details

Model: IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Edition “150 Years” Ref. IW504501

Functions
Power reserve display
Perpetual calendar with displays for the date, day, month, year in four digits and perpetual moon phase
Flying minute tourbillon at 12 o’clock

Movement
IWC-manufactured calibre 51950
Mechanical automatic movement
Frequency: 19,800 A/h | 2.75 Hz
Jewels: 54
Power reserve: 7 days (168 h)
Breguet spring
Rotor in 18-carat gold with Jubilee insignia

Case, dial and strap
18-carat red gold case, white dial with lacquered finish, black printed indices and numerals, blued hands, black alligator leather strap by Santoni
Glass Sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant 3 bar
Diameter 45 mm
Height 15.3 mm
See-through sapphire-glass back

Edition
Limited to 50 watches

IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Edition “150 Years” (Ref. IW503405)

With the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Edition “150 Years” (Ref. IW503405), IWC is presenting a special interpretation of this classic Portugieser watch in the design of the Jubilee collection. Production is limited to 250 watches: 18-carat red gold, white dial with lacquered finish, blued hands (Ref. IW503405).

IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Edition “150 Years” Ref. IW503405

The IWC-manufactured 52615 calibre with Pellaton winding generates a power reserve of 7 days with a solid gold rotor and two barrels. The perpetual calendar automatically recognises the differing lengths of the months as well as leap years and will require no adjustment until 2100.

IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Edition “150 Years” Ref. IW503405

The double moon display depicts the moon as a mirror image that is correct for both the northern and southern hemispheres and that will only deviate by 1 day from the actual cycle of the earth’s satellite after 577.5 years.

Technical details

Model: IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Edition “150 Years” Ref. IW503405

Functions
Power reserve display
Perpetual calendar with displays for the date, day, month, year in four digits and perpetual moon phase for the northern and southern hemispheres
Small hacking seconds

Movement
IWC-manufactured calibre 52615
Mechanical movement
Pellaton automatic winding
Frequency 28,800 A/h | 4 Hz
Jewels 54
Power reserve: 7 days (168 h)
Breguet spring
Rotor in 18-carat gold with Jubilee insignia

Case, dial and strap
18-carat red gold case, white dial with lacquered finish, black printed indices and numerals, blued hands, black alligator leather strap by Santoni
Glass: Sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 44.2 mm
Height: 14.9 mm
See-through sapphire-glass back

Edition
Limited to 250 watches

IWC Portugieser Chronograph Edition “150 Years”

With the Portugieser Chronograph Edition “150 Years” (Ref. 3716), IWC is fitting this iconic chronograph with a movement from the 69000-calibre family for the first time.

IWC Portugieser Chronograph Edition “150 Years” with blue dial Ref. IW371601

Two limited-edition models are available, each restricted to 2,000 watches:
– Stainless steel, blue dial with lacquered finish, rhodium-plated hands (Ref. IW371601)
– Stainless steel, white dial with lacquered finish, blued hands (Ref. IW371602)

IWC Portugieser Chronograph Edition “150 Years” with white dial Ref. IW371602

The IWC-manufactured 69355 calibre is a robust chronograph movement in a classic column-wheel design that is made of 194 individual components.

The bidirectional pawl-winding system generates a power reserve of 46 hours. The decorated movement is visible through the sapphire-glass back.

Technical details

Model: IWC Portugieser Chronograph Edition “150 Years” Ref. IW371601/ IW371602

Functions
Stopwatch function with minutes and seconds
Small hacking seconds

Movement
IWC-manufactured calibre 69355
Mechanical chronograph movement
Frequency; 28,800 A/h | 4 Hz
Jewels: 27
Power reserve: 46 h
Winding: Automatic
Rotor with Jubilee insignia

Case, dial and strap

  • Ref. IW371601: Stainless steel case, blue dial with lacquered finish, white printed indices and numerals, rhodium-plated hands, black alligator leather strap
  • Ref. IW371602: Stainless steel case, white dial with lacquered finish, black printed indices and numerals, blued hands, black alligator leather strap

Glass: Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 13.1 mm
See-through sapphire-glass back

Edition
Limited edition of 2,000 watches each

IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “150 Years”

The Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “150 Years” (Ref. 5102) is a purist Portugieser wristwatch with a hand-wound movement in the design of the Jubilee collection.

IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “150 Years” in Red Gold Ref. IW510211

A total of 250 watches will be made in red gold and 1,000 in stainless steel:
– 18-carat red gold, white dial with lacquered finish, blued hands (Ref. IW510211)
– Stainless steel, white dial with lacquered finish, blued hands (Ref. IW510212)

IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “150 Years”

The IWC-manufactured hand-wound 59215 calibre offers an 8-day power reserve. The power reserve display is on the back of the movement and visible via a glass back cover.

Technical details

Model: IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “150 Years” Ref. IW510211/ IW510212

Functions
Power reserve display on the back
Date display
Small hacking seconds

Movement
IWC-Manufactured calibre 59215
Mechanical hand wound movement
Frequency: 28,800 A/h | 4 Hz
Jewels: 30
Power reserve: 8 days (192 h)
Breguet spring
Jubilee medallion in 18-carat gold on back of movement

Case, dial and strap

  • Ref. IW510211: 18-carat red gold case, white dial with lacquered finish, black printed indices and numerals, blued hands, black alligator leather strap by Santoni
  • Ref. IW510212: Stainless steel case, white dial with lacquered finish, black printed indices and numerals, blued hands, black alligator leather strap by Santoni

Glass: Sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 12.2 mm
See-through sapphire glass back

Edition
Limited to 250 watches (Ref. IW510211)/1,000 watches (Ref. IW510212)

Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887 Platinum

With this new Grande Complication timepiece unveiled at Baselworld 2017, Swiss luxury watchmaker Breguet pays tribute to its rich tradition in the field of marine chronometers.

Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887 watch

Throughout his career, A.-L. Breguet consistently demonstrated his exceptional mastery of time measurement. His strong involvement and his revolutionary developments earned him significant recognition and numerous honours.

In 1814, Louis XVIII, king of France appointed him a member of the Bureau des longitudes in Paris. This body created in 1795 by the National Convention was dedicated to the advancement of the various branches of astronomy and their applications to geography, navigation and geodesy (the measurement and understanding of Earth’s physical properties). Its tasks included the annual publication of reference documents such as astronomical ephemerides.

The Bureau des longitudes was a prestigious organisation whose 20 or so members included geometers, astronomers, seafarers and associate artists. The only representative of his profession that was eminently useful to physicists and navigators, Breguet became the horological authority, notably for the calculation of longitudes at sea. As an extension of this distinction, through an ordinance issued on October 27th 1815, Louis XVIII awarded A.-L. Breguet the official title of chronometer maker to the French Royal Navy.

This was the most prestigious title a horologist could hope to receive, given that the very concept of marine chronometry implied scientific knowledge. It also involved playing a crucial role for the country, as marine chronometers were of capital importance for fleets by making it possible to calculate ships’ positions at sea.

Following in the wake of this unique heritage, the House of Breguet now launches a worldwide exclusive model named the Marine Équation Marchante 5887. This “Grande Complication” marks the start of a new era for the contemporary Marine collection.

Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887

The equation of time is one of the rarest and most fascinating horological complications. It serves to display the difference between mean solar time, corresponding to civil or standard hours and minutes, and true solar time, meaning the actual solar hours and minutes.

Since Antiquity, the sun has been used as the basis of time. Nonetheless, the visible motion of the sun – the true solar time indicated on sundials – is irregular. With the improvement of timekeeping precision, watches and clocks became the basis of time and true solar time was replaced by mean solar time, within which each day has the same duration of exactly 24 hours. True solar time may show a discrepancy with mean solar time ranging from minus 14 minutes to plus 16 minutes.

Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887 platinum watch

On just four days a year, the two times are exactly the same. Given that the variations between true solar time and mean solar time are repeated in an identical manner on the same dates, watchmakers can reproduce them mechanically by means of a special cam. Shaped like a bean, the cam requires extremely accurate execution.

It is coupled with a feeler-spindle that drives an equation lever serving to indicate the difference between civil time and solar time. This read-off is generally provided on a sector or subdial. It is then up to the user to mentally add or subtract the difference displayed in relation to mean time in order to calculate true solar time. The new Marine Équation Marchante from Breguet supersedes this principle. It simultaneously indicates civil time and true time by means of two separate minutes hands.

The running solar hand, adorned with a facetted golden sun, provides a direct reading of solar time minutes that is both quicker and more user-friendly. This apparently simplicity conceals an arduous construction process that few watchmakers are capable of achieving. The solar minutes hand has to meet two imperative demands: it must sweep in a conventional way around the dial, like the civil minutes hand, while also daily moving away from the latter, in order to display true solar time taking into account the equation of time.

Breguet was able to accomplish this by equipping its running solar hand with a differential gear powered by two rotation sources operating entirely independently: the rotation of civil minutes, and that controlled by the lever in contact with the equation of time cam, which makes one full turn per year. Breguet has developed an extremely slim equation cam borne by using a transparent sapphire disc.

Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887

The complexity that the running equation of time brings to this model is naturally complemented on this “Grande Complication” by a perpetual calendar. Two apertures – one between 10 and 11 o’clock and the other between 1 and 2 o’clock – respectively display the days of the week as well as the months and the leap-year cycle.

The date appears inside the chapter ring by means of a retrograde hand tipped with an anchor motif and sweeping across an arc running from 9 to 3 o’clock. The dial layout of the information has been carefully designed to ensure simple and intuitive linear reading, along with impeccable visual appeal.

Based on the self-winding 581DR calibre, the new Marine Équation Marchante by Breguet also flaunts a third complication that is noteworthy in its own right: a 60-second tourbillon with a titanium carriage housing a Breguet balance with a silicon balance spring.

Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887

This innovative characteristic notably enables the balance wheel to achieve a 4Hz frequency, while maintaining a particularly comfortable power reserve for a self-winding model. This 80-hour autonomy is displayed through an aperture between 7 and 9 o’clock. The tourbillon appears through the sapphire disc bearing the equation of time cam, to which it is coaxial.

The ingenuity of this spectacular model is accentuated by the precious expertise of the artisans exercising their skills within the House of Breguet. The front dial features two types of engine-turning, including a “wave” pattern specifically developed for this new creation. The inscription “Marine royale” is engraved on the tourbillon bar, whose execution naturally draws the gaze.

Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887

Visible through a sapphire caseback, the bridges have been delicately chased to depict in meticulous detail the Royal Louis, a first rank vessel in the French Royal Navy. The barrel is adorned with a windrose motif, in reference to astronomical navigation. Thanks to the carefully chosen positioning of the oscillating weight on the rim of the calibre, the self-winding movement deploys the full splendour of its decoration.

The new Marine Équation Marchante by Breguet features new aesthetic signature codes giving it a modern and dynamic appearance: central lugs combining polished and satin-brushed surfaces; more open fluting, with visible flanks; a crown topped with a polished “B” against a sandblasted background; as well as a crown adorned with a chamfered and satin-brushed wave motif.

This Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887 watch comes with a 43.9mm-diameter case in rose gold or platinum. The rose gold version frames a silvered dial and an anthracite movement, while the platinum interpretation has a blue dial and a rhodium-plated movement.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887
Ref. 5887PT/Y2/9WV

Case
950 platinum with delicately fluted caseband
Sapphire-crystal caseback
43.9mm diameter
Water-resistant to 10 bar (100m)

Dial
Blue dial in gold, engine-turned
Individually numbered and signed Breguet
Hours chapter with Roman numerals and luminescent dots
Breguet facetted hands in 18k gold with luminescent material
Running solar hand with facetted golden sun
Days of the week in an aperture between 10 and 11 o’clock
Months and leap-year cycle in an aperture between 1 and 2 o’clock
Retrograde dates indication on an arc running from 9 to 3 o’clock
Power reserve in an aperture between 7 and 9 o’clock

Movement
Self-winding movement with running equation of time, perpetual calendar, tourbillon and 80-hour power reserve, Cal. 581DPE
Numbered and signed Breguet
Small seconds and equation of time cam on the tourbillon axis
16 lignes
57 jewels
Silicon escapement wheel and inverted lateral lever with silicon horns
Silicon balance spring
Balance frequency: 4Hz
Adjusted in 6 positions

Strap
Alligator leather strap with gold folding clasp

Other versions
Also available in 18k rose gold with dial in silvered gold and anthracite movement: Reference 5887BR/12/9WV

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Collection – New Models in Pink Gold Case with Slate Grey Dial

Vacheron Constantin expands its Traditionnelle collection by presenting new models in Pink gold cases and slate grey dials. A modern and elegant style for models combining technical sophistication and distinctive watchmaking characteristics, interpreted through a range of varied horological complications.

A round stepped case, slim bezel and fluted caseback; a railway-track minute circle, “bâtons de Genève” applied hour-markers and Dauphine-type hands: the new models combine the signature characteristics of the Traditionnelle collection. The warm glow of 18K 5N pink gold beautifully offsets the slate-grey shade of the opaline dial, teamed with an elegant black alligator leather strap.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Collection - New Models in Pink Gold Case with Slate Grey Dial
Embodying a contemporary expression of the grand Geneva watchmaking tradition, each model houses a Manufacture mechanical movement, manual-winding or self-winding depending on the model and adorned with exquisite hand-crafted finishing.

Showcasing the full spectrum of the watchmaking art, from simple displays to the most sophisticated complications, this line pays tribute to the technical and aesthetic expertise of Vacheron Constantin, enriched by almost three centuries of uninterrupted activity.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Calibre 2755 watch in Pink Gold Case with Slate Grey Dial
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Calibre 2755

Graced with a generously sized 44 or 42 mm-diameter pink gold case, two masterpieces –Traditionnelle calibre 2755 and Traditionnelle 14-day tourbillon – demonstrate a rare degree of complexity and technical accomplishment. The first unites three major Fine Watchmaking complications: a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar and a minute repeater with centripetal flying strike governor.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle 14-day Tourbillon watch in Pink Gold Case with Slate Grey Dial
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle 14-day Tourbillon

The second equally exclusive model also features an openworked tourbillon shaped like a Maltese cross, the Vacheron Constantin emblem, and boasts an impressive 14-day power reserve thanks to four series-coupled barrels.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle 14-day Tourbillon
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle 14-day Tourbillon Case Back View

These exceptional creations are equipped with equally outstanding mechanisms in the form of mechanical manual-winding movements developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin and graced with traditional finishing testifying to fine craftsmanship and horological excellence.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Calibre 2755

Traditionnelle with ultra-thin self-winding caliber, Traditionnelle day-date and power reserve, Traditionnelle with simple display – manual-winding or self-winding: The Traditionnelle collection comprises sophisticated creations as well as simple and elegant models.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Automatic day-date and power reserve watch in Pink Gold Case with Slate Grey Dial
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Automatic day-date and power reserve

This new range attired in 18K 5N pink gold and slate-grey tones represents its most up-to-date expression, through an array of watches equipped with classic functions: hours and minutes for the Traditionnelle with ultra-thin self-winding caliber; central seconds, day, date and power-reserve indication for the Traditionnelle day-date and power reserve; small seconds at 9 o’clock and date for the Traditionnelle with simple display.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Automatic with date and small seconds watch in Pink Gold Case with Slate Grey Dial
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Automatic with date and small seconds

These three understated yet refined models are powered by mechanical self-winding movements visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle date and small seconds
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Automatic with date and small seconds case back view

One of them houses Caliber 1120, an ultra-thin movement developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin, comprising 144 parts and measuring just 2.45 mm thick.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Small Seconds watch in Pink Gold Case with Slate Grey Dial
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Small Seconds

The line-up of new interpretations is complemented by a final manual-winding variation indicating the hours, minutes and small seconds at 6 o’clock, for an almost three-day power reserve.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle  small seconds
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Small Seconds Caseback View

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Calibre 2755
Reference 80172/000R-B406, Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Calibre 2755

Movement
Calibre 2755 QP
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
33.9 mm (14 ¾’’’) diameter, 7.9 mm thick
Approximately 58 hours of power reserve
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
602 components
40 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes
Small seconds on tourbillon carriage
Minute repeater
Tourbillon
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month and leap year)
Power reserve indicator (on the back of the watch)

Case
18K 5N pink gold
44 mm diameter, 13.54 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback

Dial
Slate-coloured opaline
18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers

Strap
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Clasp
18K 5N folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Presentation box
Presentation box with winder, delivered with a corrector & accessories pen, magnifying glass and the resonator of sound “La Musique du Temps” enhancing the sound and the harmony notes of Vacheron Constantin minute repeaters

Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle 14-day Tourbillon
Reference 89000/000R-B407, Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle 14-day Tourbillon watch

Movement
Calibre 2260
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
29.1 mm (12 ¾’’’) diameter, 6.8 mm thick
Approximately 336 hours of power reserve
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
231 components
31 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes
Small seconds on tourbillon carriage
Tourbillon
Power reserve indicator

Case
18K 5N pink gold
42 mm diameter, 12.22 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial
Slate-coloured opaline
18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers

Strap
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Clasp
18K 5N pink gold folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Edition
Limited edition of 10 numbered pieces
“Limited Edition” and “X/10” engraved on the caseback

Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Automatic day-date and power reserve
Reference 85290/000R-B405, Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Automatic day-date and power reserve

Movement
Calibre 2475 SC
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
26.2 mm (11 ½’’’) diameter, 5.7 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
264 components
27 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes, center seconds
Day of the week and date
Power reserve indicator

Case
18K 5N pink gold
39.5 mm diameter, 10.65 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx.30 metres)

Dial
Slate-coloured opaline
18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers

Strap
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Buckle
18K 5N pink gold buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Accessory
Delivered with a corrector pen

Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Automatic
Reference 43075/000R-B404, Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Automatic watch

Movement
Calibre 1120
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding, ultra-thin
28.4 mm (12 ½’’’) diameter, 2.45 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations/hour)
144 components
36 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes

Case
18K 5N pink gold
41 mm diameter, 7.26 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial
Slate-coloured opaline
18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers

Strap
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Buckle
18K 5N pink gold buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Automatic with date and small seconds
Reference 87172/000R-B403, Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle date and small seconds pink gold

Movement
Calibre 2455
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
26.2 mm (11 ¼’’’) diameter, 3.6 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
194 components
27 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Date

Case
18K 5N pink gold
38 mm diameter, 8 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial
Slate-coloured opaline
18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers

Strap
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Buckle
18K 5N pink gold buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Small Seconds
Reference 82172/000R-B402, Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Small Seconds watch pink gold

Movement
Calibre 4400 AS
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
28.6 mm (12 ½’’’), diameter, 2.8 mm thick
Approximately 65 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
127 components
21 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock

Case
18K 5N pink gold
38 mm diameter, 7.77 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial
Slate-coloured opaline
18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers

Strap
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Buckle
18K 5N pink gold buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon

This new high-horology masterpiece from venerable German watch manufactory A. Lange & Söhne pairs Chronograph, Perpetual Calendar and Tourbillon – with five supplementary functions.

Limited to 100 pieces, this grand complication watch in platinum is not only technically impressive, but also stands out with a superbly organised face despite the density of information it displays.

The black solid-silver dial of the new model contrasts beautifully against the 41.5mm platinum case as well as the hands and hour markers in rhodiumed gold.

A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON in Platinum

DATOGRAPH designates a column-wheel chronograph with a precisely jumping minute counter, a flyback function and the typical Lange outsize date. To master the challenge of precise short time measurements, the product developers relied on an ingenious feature that had already proven itself in the DATOGRAPH UP/DOWN.

It distils three major technical advances in chronograph design into one: the column-wheel mechanism assures that all chronograph functions are reliably controlled. The jumping minute counter crisply displays the stopped times. And the flyback function allows the duration of consecutive events to be measured with extremely short reaction times.

A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON in Platinum

This grand complication timepiece also accommodates an instantaneously jumping perpetual calendar with a moon-phase display. All indications of the perpetual calendar –including the outsize date as well as the day-of-week, month and leap-year displays in subsidiary dials – switch instantaneously and thus provide unambiguous readings at all times. A first correction of the mechanism by one day can wait until the first day of March in the secular year 2100.

A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON in Platinum

Thanks to the stunning precision of the mechanical module, the moon-phase display will only deviate from the true lunation by a single day after 122.6 years. Three correctors allow the separate adjustment of the moon-phase display, the day of the week and the combined advance of the month and leap-year indications. After a standstill of merely a few days, the rapid-correction pusher at ten o’clock can be used to conveniently update all displays at the same time.

A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON in Platinum

The fascinating tourbillon mechanism is exposed by the sapphire-crystal caseback and the open tourbillon bridge. There, the escapement rotates about its own axis once a minute inside the filigreed cage. This rotary motion offsets the influence of gravity on the balance wheel with eccentric poising weights.

A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON in Platinum

In conjunction with the free-sprung balance spring crafted in-house, it assures excellent rate accuracy across the entire 50-hour power reserve. The power-reserve indicator integrated at the end of the tachymeter scale reminds the owner when it is time to rewind the watch.

A. Lange & Söhne Calibre L952.2

For the first time in a Lange tourbillon with chronograph, the balance beats at a rate of 18,000 instead of the conventional 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour. This corresponds to a frequency of 2.5 hertz. Consequently, stopped times can be displayed with an accuracy of one-fifth of a second. The patented stop-seconds mechanism instantaneously brings the balance wheel inside the tourbillon cage to a standstill when the crown is pulled. This allows the watch to be set with one-second accuracy.

Technical details

Model: A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON in Platinum
Reference 740.036

Movement
Calibre L952.2
Manually wound movement
Number of movement parts: 729
Power reserve: 50 hours

Functions
Hour and minute
Small seconds
Tourbillon with patented stop seconds
Flyback chronograph with precisely jumping minute counter
Tachometer scale
Perpetual calendar with outsize date, day of the week, month, leap year, day/night indicator, moon-phase display
Power reserve indicator

Case
Material: Platinum
Diameter: 41.5 mm
Height: 14.6 mm
Water resistance: 3 bar

Dial
Solid silver, black rhodié dial
Hands: rhodiumed

Edition
Limited to 100 timepieces

Image Credit: Lange Uhren GmbH

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar in White Gold

Thanks to a clear arrangement of the calendar display around the time indication, the A. Lange & Söhne LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR presents an abundance of information at a single glance. The latest model of this horological masterpiece is now presented in a discreet white-gold case with a grey dial.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar in White Gold Reference 720.038

The LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR combines two classic complications with the iconic design of A. Lange & Söhne’s most famous watch family.

The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar watch was introduced in 2012 in a platinum version with rhodié dial (reference 720.025), and a pink gold version with argenté dial (reference 720.032). In 2013, the brand created a Handwerkskunst edition of this timepiece.

The new white gold edition (reference 720.038) features a light grey dial, white gold hands and blue moon-phase disc with white details.

The perpetual calendar consists of a Lange outsize date, retrograde day-of-the-week and leap-year displays and a peripheral month ring. Due to the clear separation of the time and date, all information can be taken in at even a cursory glance.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar in White Gold Reference 720.038

All of the perpetual calendar displays advance instantaneously. The mechanism is designed in such a way that it must be advanced only by one day in the year 2100. And the moon-phase display, located inside the subsidiary seconds dial, will even run true for 122.6 years before it needs to be corrected by one day.

A subtle inscription beneath the twelve refers to the existence of the tourbillon. By looking through the sapphire-crystal caseback, it can be admired in all its technical complexity.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar in White Gold Reference 720.038

The movement is equipped with Lange’s patented stop-seconds mechanism. It brings the balance inside the tourbillon cage to a standstill instantly, gently and safely when the crown is pulled. This allows the watch to be set with one-second accuracy. The upper part of the tourbillon cage is decorated with black polish, the most sophisticated and time consuming type of artisanal surface finishing. The bearing of the tourbillon cage features a diamond end stone as a tribute to the historic 1A pocket watches by A. Lange & Söhne.

Lange Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Movement Calibre L082.1

A solid central rotor with a 21-carat-gold segment in the middle and an additional platinum centrifugal mass on the periphery efficiently tension the mainspring of the self-winding calibre L082.1 movement so that the maximum power reserve of 50 hours is built up after just a short time on the wrist. Typical Lange quality hallmarks include the lavishly decorated movement with hand-engraved tourbillon and intermediate wheel cocks as well as screwed gold chatons.

Technical details

Model: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar in White Gold
Reference 720.038

Movement
Lange Calibre L082.1
Self-winding movement
Number of movement parts: 624
Power reserve: 50 hours

Functions
Perpetual calendar with outsize date
Moon-phase display
Tourbillon

Case
Material: 18-carat white gold
Diameter: 41.9 mm
Thickness: 12.2 mm
Lug width: 22 mm
Water resistance: 3 bar

Dial
Solid silver light-grey dial

Strap
Black alligator leather strap with 18-carat white gold buckle

Image Credit: Lange Uhren GmbH

Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Calibre 2253 L’empreinte du dragon

While the “Métiers d’Art” collection by Vacheron Constantin continues to roll out a distinguished line of watches worthy of the finest master works, the expertise cultivated by the Manufacture in the field of topflight crafts is revealed in delicate touches throughout its range of timepieces.

In order to highlight one of the many skills that it perpetuates with consistent excellence, the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin presents the Traditionelle Calibre 2253 L’empreinte du dragon model featuring an entirely hand-engraved case.

This fine watch is equipped with prestigious horological complications and adorned with a dragon scale motif executed by a master-artisan who was awarded the prestigious title “Meilleur Ouvrier de France” in 2011.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Calibre 2253 L’empreinte du dragon

Vacheron Constantin pays tribute with impressive regularity and virtuosity to a range of artistic crafts through its “Métiers d’Art” collection. Engraving, gemsetting, enamelling and guilloché convey the full breadth and depth of the artisan-type skills perpetuated by the Geneva-based Manufacture for over 250 years.

With subtle touches, these demanding arts are liberally sprinkled across the collections of the Maison, transfiguring exclusive models into unique works of art. For the very first time on a Grande Complication model in the Traditionnelle collection, the meticulous and refined art of engraving finds its place on the pink gold case.

Offering unique expressions of superlative craftsmanship, the case, bezel and lugs of the Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 L’empreinte du dragon have been entirely hand-engraved by one of the most experienced master engravers of his generation, who was indeed named “Meilleur Ouvrier de France” in 2011. This lifelong title conferred in recognition of authentic excellence rewards the perfection of a masterpiece and requires months and even years of preparation.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Calibre 2253 L’empreinte du dragon

Stemming from close collaboration between the Vacheron Constantin designers and this talented artisan who joined the Manufacture in order to express his talent to the full, the dragon-scale symbolises imperial power and authority in Asia. In addition to the powerful aesthetic effect, the remarkable geometry of a dragon scale involves a number of challenges at each stage of the work.

From defining a motif harmoniously applied to the variously sized surfaces of the case, through to the line (copperplate) engraving of almost inaccessible parts, this meticulous work calls for expert dexterity – because such a masterpiece can tolerate no mistakes. There are no trial runs: the engraving is performed entirely by hand on the already assembled case, without any transferred pattern or laser tracing to serve as a reference, and at the considerable depth of 4/10ths of a millimetre.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Calibre 2253 L’empreinte du dragon

The generous case thus provides an ideal medium of expression for this profound and impressive form of intaglio engraving. In addition, the specific 18-carat pink gold alloy used by Vacheron Constantin proved particularly challenging to engrave because of its hardness – a difficulty compounded by the constraints of a sophisticated motif obliging the master engraving to devise dedicated half moon-shaped tools in order to decorate the appropriate parts while avoiding the risk of damaging the surrounding areas.

Entirely performed by hand using burins, a compass and custom-made tools, this intricate and delicate task calls for up to 70 hours of patient workmanship. Exclusive by its very nature, the case-back of the Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 L’empreinte du dragon bears the inscription “Pièce Unique”.

To set the perfect stage for the ancestral artistic craft of engraving, Vacheron Constantin chose a highly complicated model in its Traditionnelle collection.

This line of timeless watches, graced with round cases and refined elegance, is inspired by the aesthetic codes that have defined some of the finest historical creations from the Manufacture. While remaining firmly attached to its fundamental values, the collection nonetheless expresses itself in contemporary language, thereby serving as a reminder that tradition and modernity are natural companions at Vacheron Constantin.

The entirely in-house developed and crafted Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 L’empreinte du dragon model is distinguished by a remarkable level of meticulously hand-crafted finishes. This timepiece bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva meets the many demanding criteria of this supremely independent label that is a guarantee of provenance, of high-quality precision, of durability and of watchmaking expertise.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Calibre 2253 L’empreinte du dragon

In addition to the tourbillon, the Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 L’empreinte du dragon also features various complications relating to the Earth’s path through space: a perpetual calendar, an equation of time as well as sunrise and sunset indications.

The equation of time is a fascinating complication serving to measure the difference in minutes between true solar time and standard or legal time. This time lag or advance varies daily, while remaining within a range of -16 to +16 minutes. Sunrise and sunset times represent another rare horological complication, serving to provide a precise reading of these indications at any place on earth chosen by the client.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Calibre 2253 L’empreinte du dragon

This highly technical watchmaking masterwork calling for several thousand hours of development boasts a stunning 14-day power reserve. Calibre 2253 measures just 9.60 mm thick and comprises 457 parts.

The inner technical complexity of this timepiece is equalled only by the refinement of its external attributes: a 44 mm diameter case in 18-carat gold, a silvered opaline dial adorned with 18K pink gold applied hour-markers, and a pink gold folding clasp shaped like a half Maltese cross.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Calibre 2253 L’empreinte du dragon
Reference: 88172/001R-A104
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Movement
Caliber 2253
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
32 mm (13’’’) diameter
9.6 mm thick
Approximately 336 hours of power reserve (14 days)
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
457 components
30 jewels

Indications
Hours
Minutes
Small second at 6 o’clock on tourbillon carriage
Tourbillon
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month and leap year)
Equation of time
Sunrise/sunset time
Power reserve indication (on the back of the watch)

Case
18K 5N pink gold
Hand-engraved lugs, case and bezel
44 mm diameter, 15.6 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial
Silvered opaline
18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers

Strap
Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp: 18K 5N pink gold triple-blade folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen and a magnifying glass

Unique timepiece
« Pièce unique » engraved on caseback

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 Moscow Boutique Edition

The Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 Moscow Boutique is a Vacheron Constantin masterpiece.

Crafted in a limited edition of one, this watch celebrates the inauguration of the new Moscow Boutique that has now taken up residence in Berlin House. Equipped with a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar, an equation of time as well as sunrise and sunset times for the city of Moscow, it pays tributes to the noblest horological traditions.

Rare, complex and exclusive are the adjectives that best describe the Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 Moscow Boutique watch. Issued in a one-only limited edition for the inauguration of the new Moscow Boutique, it pays tribute to a longstanding expertise, acquired over a period of almost 260 years by a Manufacture that set out to conquer Russia at a very early stage in its history.

Fashioned in 950 platinum, this model is a compendium of major horological complications. Its 457-part calibre developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin features a tourbillon along with several astronomical-type complications such as the perpetual calendar, the equation of time and the sunrise and sunset times for the city of Moscow.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Caliber 2253 Moscow Boutique Edition

This watch is also endowed with an exceptional 14-day power reserve. Its technical configuration is based on two pairs of two coupled barrels; while the power reserve is visible on the bridge side and clearly visible through the sapphire crystal case-back.

The equation of time is probably the most fascinating complication in this outstanding model. Its purpose is to indicate the difference in minutes between the variable solar time shown by a sundial and the constant mean time of clocks and watches. For practical reasons, mankind has divided each year into 365 and a quarter days, each day into 24 hours, and the hours into 60 minutes each.

However, solar noon, the exact time when the sun reaches its zenith, does not generally correspond to the legal standard time shown by watches. In actual fact, solar time and mean time coincide just four times a year – on April 15th, June 14th, September 1st and December 24th. For the rest of the year, the difference between solar and mean time varies from minus 16 minutes to plus 16 minutes.

The oldest clock showing the equation of time was made by the mathematician Nikolaus Mercator in the 17thcentury. It enabled people in those days to convert the sun’s varying noon to the standard constant time shown on their watches. Since then, the rare instruments calculating the equation of time have been the work of extremely accomplished horologists.

Making this complication work does indeed call for particular skill. It depends on the equation cam, a waisted oval or analemma, shaped like a figure 8 and calculated according to the daily declination of the sun observed from a given spot in the course of a calendar year.

The cam rotates once a year and the extreme precision of its shape governs the accuracy of the equation of time. This fascinating complication is displayed by a short hand appearing between 10 and 11 o’clock on the dial of the Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 Moscow Boutique timepiece.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Caliber 2253 Moscow Boutique Edition

This exceptional creation also features another astronomical complication seldom found in watches –the times of sunrise and sunset throughout the year at a given locality. This extremely intricate complication serves to provide an accurate daily indication of these times for the city of Moscow. Here too, the mechanism relies on a cam, the outline of which is calculated according to the latitude and longitude of Moscow Its symmetrical display shows the sunrise times at 8 o’clock and sunset times at 4 o’clock.

The tourbillon carriage, as always in the shape of the brand emblem, a Maltese cross, rotates once a minute at 6 o’clock as a small seconds indication. The indications of the perpetual calendar are symmetrically laid out with the days, the months and the dates at 9, 12 and 3 o’clock respectively, while the leap-year indicator makes a circumspect appearance at 1 o’clock.

Within the Vacheron Constantin universe, this Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 Moscow Boutique expresses the very genetic identity of the Manufacture, of its heritage and of the skills patiently acquired since its founding. Radiating an aura of understated elegance through a 44 mm round case imbued with timeless classicism, this model embodies the noblest horological traditions and establishes itself as a reference in its field.

In addition to rigorously pure aesthetic, this one-of-a-kind model displays traditional style codes expressed in contemporary language: a slimmer case, a knurled motif surrounding the screw-down case-back fitted with a sapphire crystal, dauphine hands and an opaline black dial. An engraving on the case-back soberly indicates the exceptional – and indeed unique – nature of the Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 Moscow Boutique “N°1/1”.

The Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 Moscow Boutique model also bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, which is an independent and sovereign guarantee of workmanship, origin, quality, precision, resilience and competence. This seal of watchmaking perfection, among the oldest of professional labels, is reserved for a handful of Geneva manufacturers.

In an ultimate touch of elegance and refinement, the Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 Moscow Boutique model comes with a pair of 18-carat white gold and onyx cufflinks matching the Vacheron Constantin timepiece.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Caliber 2253 Moscow Boutique Edition
Reference: 88172/000P-F417
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Special product for Vacheron Constantin Moscow Boutique

Movement
Caliber 2253
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
32 mm (13 ’’’) diameter
9.60 mm thick
Approximately 336 hours power reserve (14 days)
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
457 components
30 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock
Tourbillon
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month, leap year)
Equation of time
Sunrise/sunset time of Moscow
Power reserve indication on the back of the watch

Case
Platinum 950
44 mm diameter, 15.60 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial
Black opaline
18K white gold hour-markers, with painted minute-track and indications

Strap
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather strap, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp: Platinum 950 triple-blade folding clasp; Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Accessory
Delivered with a corrector pen
Delivered with a pair of cufflinks in 18K white gold matching the dial of the timepiece

Edition
Unique timepiece
“N° 1/1” engraved on caseback

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795

Unveiled at Baselworld 2014, this new Breguet tourbillon perpetual calendar watch (reference 3795) comes with a skeleton dial. The opaque chapter ring at 12 o’clock with its metallic Roman numerals reveals the time with the aid of the Breguet open-tipped hands in blued steel. This high-complication timepiece is available in 18K rose gold and platinum versions.

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795 rose gold

Beneath the disc, an engine-turned hobnail pattern decorates the dial, overarched by the semi-circular scale of the retrograde dates. The one-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock nicely complements the chapter ring. Its bridge is delicately chamfered and surmounted by a triple hand for the seconds.

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795 rose gold

The subdial for the days at 9 o’clock is engine turned in waves. In the movement, a snail cam makes the days hand jump instantaneously. At 3 o’clock a blued steel hand points to the months on a dial engine-turned in a shimmering sunburst pattern. At its centre a blue sun shows the leap years.

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795 Platinum

At the back of the watch, a sapphire-crystal glass reveals the movement and the way the baseplate has been designed to throw the maximum light onto the tourbillon.

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795 movement

Once again, the talents and experience of Breguet’s craftsmen and women were applied to achieve these remarkable decorations by hand. The engravings thus give life to a sumptuous trellis that seems to jump out of the movement, while the tourbillon’s ballet sets the tempo.

Apart from its achievements in technique and design, the Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795 has all the identifying attributes of a Breguet timepiece.

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795 Platinum

The case, in rose gold or in platinum, is finely fluted around its sides and the lugs are welded on. The engine-turned patterns, the unique number, hands in blued steel and the secret signature complete the features that identify a Breguet watch.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795
Ref. 3795PT/1E/9WU

Case
950 platinum with a finely fluted caseband
Sapphire caseback
41 mm diameter
Welded lugs with screw bars
Water-resistant to 3 bar (30m)

Dial
Skeleton dial in silvered 18-carat gold
Individually numbered and signed BREGUET
Hours chapter with Roman numerals on a sapphire disc
Breguet open-tipped hands in blued steel
Retrograde dates indication at 12 o’clock, days at 9 o’clock, and months and leap years at 3 o’clock
Small seconds on the tourbillon axis

Movement
Manually wound movement with tourbillon and perpetual calendar
Numbered and signed BREGUET. Cal. 558QP3
14 ½ lignes
21 jewels
Power reserve of 50 hours
Lateral lever escapement and balance with adjustment screws on a Breguet spring
Frequency: 2.5Hz
Adjusted in six positions

Strap
Leather strap with a triple-blade folding clasp

Other versions
Rose gold version: Reference 3795BR/1E/9WU

BREGUET Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797

Breguet’s Classique collection already includes several exceptional perpetual calendar models. This year, the manufacture is enhancing this collection with by creating a new perpetual calendar version: the reference 3797.

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797 Rose Gold

This time Breguet has paid special attention to the styling for a more intuitive display of the indications without compromising the charm of the watch. The amount of information displayed on the dial can be confusing, so Breguet has added a third dimension. By lifting the hours and minutes chapter to the foreground, the timepiece draws attention to the essential information. A further glance takes in all the other indications.

The Breguet Reference 3797 Perpetual Calendar watch does this with an offset sapphire disc. The opaque chapter ring with its metallic Roman numerals reveals the time instantly with the aid of the Breguet open-tipped hands in blued steel. Beneath the disc, an engine-turned hobnail pattern decorates the dial, overarched by the semi-circular scale of the retrograde dates.

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797 Rose Gold

The one-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock nicely complements the chapter ring. This complication proved particularly difficult to construct because it is mounted on a slight dome. Despite the curve, its bridge is delicately chamfered and surmounted by a triple hand for the seconds. The subdial for the days at 9 o’clock is engine turned in waves.

In the movement, a snail cam makes the days hand jump instantaneously. At 3 o’clock a blued steel hand points to the months on a dial engine-turned in a shimmering sunburst pattern. At its centre a blue sun shows the leap years.

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797 Rose Gold

At the back of the watch, a sapphire-crystal glass reveals the movement and the way the baseplate has been designed to throw the maximum light onto the tourbillon. Once again, the talents and experience of Breguet’s craftsmen and women were applied to achieve these remarkable decorations by hand. The engravings thus give life to a sumptuous trellis that seems to jump out of the movement, while the tourbillon’s ballet sets the tempo.

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797 Platinum

Apart from the achievements in technique and design, the Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797 has all the identifying attributes of a Breguet timepiece. The cases, in rose gold or in platinum, are finely fluted around their sides and the lugs are welded on. The engine-turned patterns, the unique number, hands in blued steel and the secret signature complete the features that identify a Breguet watch.

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797 Platinum

The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797 is also available in platinum version (reference 3797PT/1E/9WU).

Technical details

Model: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797 Rose Gold
Ref. 3797BR/1E/9WU

Case
18-carat rose gold with a finely fluted case band
Sapphire caseback
41 mm diameter
Welded lugs with screw bars
Water-resistant to 3 bar (30m)

Dial
18-carat gold, silvered and engine-turned in four different patterns
Individually numbered and signed BREGUET
Hours chapter with Roman numerals on a sapphire disc
Breguet open-tipped hands in blued steel
Retrograde dates indication at 12 o’clock, days at 9 o’clock, and months and leap years at 3 o’clock
Small seconds on the tourbillon axis

Movement
Manually wound movement with tourbillon and perpetual calendar
Numbered and signed BREGUET.Cal. 558QP2. 14 ½ lignes, 21 jewels
Power reserve of 50 hours
Lateral lever escapement and balance with adjustment screws on a Breguet spring
Frequency 2,5Hz
Adjusted in six positions

Strap
Leather strap with a triple-blade folding clasp

Model: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797 Platinum
Ref. 3795PT/1E/9WU

Case
950 platinum with a finely fluted case band
Sapphire caseback
41 mm diameter
Welded lugs with screw bars
Water-resistant to 3 bar (30m)

Dial
Skeleton dial in silvered 18-carat gold
Individually numbered and signed BREGUET
Hours chapter with Roman numerals on a sapphire disc
Breguet open-tipped hands in blued steel
Retrograde dates indication at 12 o’clock, days at 9 o’clock, and months and leap years at 3 o’clock
Small seconds on the tourbillon axis

Movement
Manually wound movement with tourbillon and perpetual calendar
Numbered and signed BREGUET.Cal. 558QP3. 14 ½ lignes, 21 jewels
Power reserve of 50 hours
Lateral lever escapement and balance with adjustment screws on a Breguet spring
Frequency 2,5Hz
Adjusted in six positions

Strap
Leather strap with a triple-blade folding clasp

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst

German Watchmaking Legend A. Lange & Söhne unveils the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst, an exceptional timepiece that combines two classic complications – Tourbillon & Perpetual Calendar – with the typical design of A. Lange & Söhne’s most famous wristwatch: the Lange 1.

This haute horology timepiece  is available in a special Handwerkskunst edition limited to 15 timepieces.

A. Lange Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst

This new timepiece incorporates the complexity of Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar and beauty of Lange Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst models launched in 2012 and leverages the entire spectrum of artisanal skills mastered by the eminent Saxon manufactory.

Intelligently arranged around the time indications, the calendar displays with the patented peripheral month ring deliver a host of information at a single glance: date, day, month, leap year, and moon phase. All perpetual calendar displays advance instantaneously.

A. Lange & Söhne LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR HANDWERKSKUNST

They are so harmoniously integrated in the dial architecture that it takes a second look to grasp the technical complexity of this horological masterpiece. To assure crisp legibility, the refined tourbillon mechanism with the patented stop function can be observed only on the caseback side.

A. Lange & Söhne LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR HANDWERKSKUNST movement

The dial is crafted from solid white gold and in this special edition is decorated with a rare combination of tremblage and relief engraving techniques.

A. Lange & Söhne LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR HANDWERKSKUNST

The manual work involved extends into the realm of the smallest details: For the first time in a Lange timepiece, the blue numerals of the outsize date display are hand-painted.

A. Lange & Söhne LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR HANDWERKSKUNST

The epithet Handwerkskunst also applies to the decorations of the manufacture calibre L082.1 without reservation. They are the traditional counterpoints to the avant-garde calibre design innovations. The relief-engraved tourbillon and intermediate-wheel cocks frame the tourbillon ensemble with the patented stop seconds feature.

The same free-hand engraving technique is used to decorate the large central rotor in 21-carat gold with a platinum centrifugal mass. Each of the three train bridges is embellished with solarisation. The specular polish on the upper side of the tourbillon cage is also a typical Lange quality hallmark. Four screwed gold chatons and a diamond endstone bearing for the tourbillion are the grand finale of Lange’s “Handwerkskunst” extravaganza.

A. Lange & Söhne LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR HANDWERKSKUNST

A 41.9-millimetre platinum case is the fitting highlight of this composition of precious metals. The A. Lange & Söhne signature and the case and edition serial numbers on the caseback are hand-engraved.

A. Lange & Söhne LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR HANDWERKSKUNST

This exclusive collectors’ item was unveiled in September 2013 at the “Watches & Wonders” Haute Horlogerie Exhibition in Hong Kong. It comes in a limited edition of 15 watches that will be available exclusively through the eleven international A. Lange & Söhne Boutiques.

Technical details

Model: A. Lange & Söhne LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR HANDWERKSKUNST
Reference 720.048

Edition
Limited edition of 15 watches

Movement 
Lange manufacture calibre L082.1, self-winding, crafted to the  most exacting Lange quality standards, decorated and  assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; plates  and bridges made of untreated German silver; central element  of the unidirectional winding rotor in 21-carat gold, platinum  centrifugal mass; rotor as well as tourbillon and intermediate wheel cocks engraved by hand with the relief technique
Movement parts: 624
Jewels: 76, including one diamond endstone
Screwed gold chatons: 5
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator: Shock-resistant balance with eccentric poising weights;  superior-quality balance spring manufactured in-house,  frequency 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve: 50 hours when fully wound
Movement dimensions: Diameter: 34.1 millimetres; height: 7.8 millimetres

Functions 
Time indicated in hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds.
Tourbillon with patented stop-seconds mechanism; perpetual  calendar with outsize date, day of week, month, and leap year;  day/night indication; moon-phase display

Operating elements 
Crown for winding the watch and setting the time; recessed  push pieces for collectively advancing all calendar indications or  for individually correcting the month, the day of week, and the  moon phase

Case
Platinum
Dimensions: Diameter: 41.9 millimetres; height: 12.2 millimetres
Crystal and back: Sapphire crystal (hardness 9)

Dial
White gold, rhodié; hand-engraved with the relief and  tremblage techniques; blue numerals of the outsize date  painted by hand
Hands: Rhodiumed gold

Strap
Hand-stitched crocodile strap, black
Buckle: Lange deployant buckle in platinum

Image Credit: Lange Uhren GmbH

CHOPARD L.U.C Perpetual T

Swiss luxury watch brand CHOPARD unveils Perpetual T, an exceptional complication timepiece from its L.U.C. range offering the complexity of precious horological complications and the superlative refinement of its decorations.

This novelty timepiece, together with its discreet sophistication, sums up the highest standards integral to the legacy of Louis-Ulysse Chopard.

In this timepiece, an elegant tourbillon complication rubs shoulders with an extremely readable perpetual calendar in a watch characterised by its elaborate aesthetic appeal. Chronometer-certified for precision and bearing the Poinçon de Genève for the quality of its craftsmanship, the Perpetual T is more than a mere demonstration of watchmaking mastery. It is a distinguished and functional watch designed for daily living.

CHOPARD L.U.C Perpetual T watch in rose gold

With the L.U.C Perpetual T, Chopard presents one of the most prestigious combinations in watchmaking. The perpetual calendar and the tourbillon along with more than one-week of operating autonomy, cement this new timepiece firmly among the horological aristocracy. In watchmaking, such nobility is acquired by a mastery of technical complexity allied with a dedication to achieving a supremely satisfying aesthetic effect.

CHOPARD L.U.C Perpetual T watch in rose gold with perpetual calendar and tourbillon

Making a perpetual calendar involves both technical and ergonomic issues. Displaying the complete date while taking account of the variable lengths of months, including in leap years, is a constant challenge ably met by L.U.C Calibre 02.15-L. Moreover, the multiple indications on the dial of such models can be detrimental to their readability and a strategic layout is crucial to legibility.

The Perpetual T brings the date to the foreground in the shape of a large twin-aperture date display. At 9 o’clock, the day of the week takes precedence over a day/night indication; while the months share the 3 o’clock space with the leap-year cycle. Moreover, the quest for ergonomics and thus user friendliness goes beyond readability.

With the four barrels of the Quattro system, the Chopard Perpetual T watch offers a nine-day power reserve, meaning there is no need to worry about repeatedly adjusting the time or date. So as not to overload the dial, the power-reserve indicator appears on the reverse side of the watch and can be read through a transparent sapphire crystal case-back.

CHOPARD L.U.C Perpetual T watch rose gold case back view

The tourbillon of the Perpetual T sits enthroned at 6 o’clock, topped by a steel bridge meticulously polished to a mirror finish. By its constant rotation around its axis, it enables the rate of the watch to elude the effects of gravity. Each Perpetual T successfully passesthe trials conducted by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute.

The COSC tests the rating precision and issues its timekeeping certificate only for watches that meet its established tolerances. Chopard, which regularly submits its watches at the International Chronometry Competition in Le Locle, thereby offers concrete proof that the tourbillon of its L.U.C Perpetual T does indeed accomplish its mission and the ‘Chronometer’ inscription on the dial is a discreet reminder of its high-precision timing capabilities.

The 43 mm-diameter rose gold case of the Perpetual T watch frames a solid gold dial adorned with a hand-cut guilloché motif radiating out from the large date and crossing through the applied Roman numerals marking off the hours. The slate grey counters of the perpetual calendar are also guilloché-worked in order to distinguish between the functions and accentuate the contrasts. When it comes to watches, inner beauty is an equally important virtue.

CHOPARD L.U.C Perpetual T watch movement

The entire L.U.C Calibre 02.15-L has thus been hand-decorated in accordance with the finest watchmaking traditions. The plates are circular-grained, the screws are polished, the bridges are bevelled and adorned with a vertical Côtes de Genève motif and the jewels are set into gold chatons.

These parts are all patiently polished and smoothed down by hand. The quality of these treatments combined with the specific technical and design choices involved in its development enable the L.U.C Perpetual T to earn the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, the most prestigious Swiss watch industry certification.

CHOPARD L.U.C Perpetual T watch movement L.U.C Calibre 02.15-L

The L.U.C approach consists in a quest for excellence encompassing all aspects of the watch. An elegant complication model featuring the precision and the kinematic appeal of the tourbillon, the Perpetual T is made to be admired and worn.

Its COSC and Poinçon de Genève certification testify to the high standards governing Chopard’s production of its prestigious watches. While naturally rare due to the sheer complexity of crafting it, the Perpetual T is nonetheless not a limited edition. It is taking its place firmly and securely at the peak of the L.U.C ranges.

Chopard is a family-owned company imbued with a strong sense of independence. The various stages involved in making L.U.C watches are conducted within the group’s own production sites in Meyrin and Fleurier.

Movement development; design of the finished product; gold casting; stamping and machining of cases, movement parts and bracelets; traditional hand-crafted decorations; surface treatments; polishing; assembly; adjustment and quality control: this entire range of watch production operations is fully mastered in-house by Chopard and applied to the creation of each L.U.C watch.

Technical details

Model: CHOPARD L.U.C Perpetual T
Ref. 161940-5001 – In 18-carat rose gold

Case
• 18-carat rose gold
• Total diameter: 43.00 mm
• Thickness: 14.90 mm
• Water resistance: 30 m
• 18-carat rose gold crown with L.U.C logo: 6.50 mm
• Glare proofed sapphire crystal
• Transparent exhibition back

Movement
• Mechanical L.U.C 02.15-L
• Diameter: 33.00 mm
• Thickness: 9.35 mm
• Number of jewels: 31
• Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
• Power reserve: 216 hours, meaning 9 days
• Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève
• Chronometer-certified by the COSC
• Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark

Dial and hands
• 18-carat gold hand-guilloché dial
• Slate grey snailed counters
• Gold-toned hour, minute, day, month and small seconds hands, and hour-markers
• Triangular day/night and year indications

Functions and displays
• Central display of the hours and minutes
• Small seconds at 6 o’clock
• Large date at 12 o’clock
• Perpetual calendar
• Power-reverse indicator on the back

Strap and buckle
Hand-sewn brown alligator leather strap with cognac-coloured alligator lining
18-carat rose gold pin buckle

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar

The LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR is the tenth masterpiece added to the iconic LANGE 1 family of timepieces. As the name suggests, the model unites two classic complications: Tourbillon & Perpetual calendar.

The off-centre configuration of the LANGE 1 dial offers ideal prerequisites for the integration of a perpetual calendar. This is because the calendar displays can be neatly positioned outside the hour and minute circle without compromising the readability of the time indication in any way.

The harmoniously balanced integration of Perpetual calendar and hidden complexity (only a modest inscription at 12 o’clock refers to the tourbillon) enhances the classic nature of the timepiece.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar watch

To create the prerequisites for integrating a calendar in the dial architecture of the LANGE 1, the manufactory’s calibre designers devised the very first rotating peripheral month ring ever implemented in a wristwatch. The underside of the ring has recesses of different depths for the respective durations of each month and features an innovative sampling mechanism. This one-of-a-kind design has been registered for patent.

All displays of the perpetual calendar – the outsize date, the retrograde day, the month ring, the aperture leap year, and the moon-phase indication – switch instantaneously and thus always deliver unambiguous readings. The mechanism is designed such that it must only be advanced by one day on March 1st of the secular year 2100. And the moon-phase display will even run true for 122 years before it needs to be corrected by one day. Corrections are easy to perform with recessed push pieces that allow the calendar indications to be advanced individually or collectively.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Platinum version with rhodié dial Reference 720.025
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Platinum 

One objective in the development of the LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR was that nothing should obstruct the legibility of the indications on the dial.

The dial has no aperture for the tourbillon but it is visible through the sapphire-crystal caseback. Here the filigreed cage rotates about its axis once a minute to eliminate the influence of gravity on the balance wheel and its eccentric poising weights.

Combined with the proprietary Lange balance spring, it assures an extremely high degree of rate accuracy. Both components are exactly matched to one another to achieve optimised precision at the movement’s rated frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour. The patented stop-seconds mechanism makes it possible to instantly block the balance inside the tourbillon cage at any time by pulling the crown, so the watch can be set to one-second accuracy.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar movement calibre L082.1

The high winding efficiency of the new automatic calibre L082.1 is attained with a heavy central rotor whose middle segment with the embossed A. Lange & Söhne signature is made of 21-carat gold. The platinum centrifugal mass on the outer periphery of the rotor has an even higher density than gold, so it imparts extra momentum to the winding process. Thus, even the slightest motion of the wrist is converted into winding energy. The result: the maximum power reserve of 50 hours is available after a very short time on the wrist.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar movement calibre L082.1

The movement is endowed with many iconic Lange-style quality hallmarks such as the movement parts lavishly decorated by hand, the free-hand engravings on the tourbillon and intermediate-wheel cocks, and the four gold chatons secured to the plate with thermally blued screws.

The upper part of the tourbillon cage is black polished. A flawless diamond endstone serves as a bearing for the tourbillon. It is a reminiscence of historic Lange pocket watches that belonged to the high-end “1A” category.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 18K Pink gold version with argenté dial Reference 720.032
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 18K Pink Gold

The LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR is available in a pink gold or platinum case with a diameter of 41.9 millimetres. Platinum model is strictly limited to an edition of 100 watches.

Technical details

Model: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar

Versions
Reference 720.025: Platinum version with rhodié dial
Reference 720.032: 18K Pink gold version with argenté dial

Case
Material: Platinum or 18K Pink gold
Diameter: 41.9 mm
Height: 12.2mm
Glass and caseback made of sapphire

Movement
Caliber L082.1 Automatic
Tourbillon with patented stop-seconds mechanism
50 hour power reserve

Functions
Perpetual calendar with outsize date, retrograde weekday display, month ring and leap year display
Moon phase display
Day/Night display

Dial
Solid silver rhodié (platinum version) or argenté (pink gold version)
Hands: rhodium-plated gold or pink gold hands

Strap
Hand-stitched crocodile strap

Edition
Platinum version is limited to 100 pieces

Image Credit: Lange Uhren GmbH

ANTOINE MARTIN Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel

In 2011 at Basel watch fair, Swiss haute horlogerie brand  ANTOINE MARTIN had announced their grand entry to the world of luxury watch making by introducing the Perpetual Calendar QP01 (“Quantième Perpétuel au Grand Balancier”) Collection.

This year, the enigmatic watch brand founded by watch making genius Martin Braun, presents their second and newest collection “Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel”. This grand complication timepiece was unveiled at Basel world 2012.

ANTOINE MARTIN Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel watch

The tourbillon revolves around its own axis once a minute, while the escapement in the rotating cage ticks away steadily at 2.5 Hertz, or 18,000 beats per hour. Martin Braun chose silicium as the material for the pallet lever, escape wheel and impulse pin, and opted for a balance of nickel silver.

ANTOINE MARTIN Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel

Precision adjustment is achieved via the two half-round-head screws made of 18-carat gold, while the tourbillon cage is poised using two gold rings. The result is a tourbillion consisting of precisely 65 parts and weighing a total of 0.62 grams. Not only that, the rotating cage has the breath taking diameter of 14.1 millimetres.

ANTOINE MARTIN Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel watch

The ANTOINE MARTIN Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar watch is equipped with the in-house movement Calibre 39.002. The collection has two models and features a choice of two different dials – silver in the rose gold – or black in the white gold case.

Technical details

Model: ANTOINE MARTIN Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel

Reference TQP01.710.1

Hand-wound movement with six days power reserve
Case: Rose gold 18K
Double anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Genuine brown Louisiana alligator leather strap
Deployant buckle with rose gold 18K

Reference TQP01.800.1

Hand-wound movement with six days power reserve
Case white gold 18K
Double anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Genuine black Louisiana alligator leather strap
Deployant buckle with white gold 18K

 

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers : Philosophia & Vladimir

Created in 2006, Vacheron Constantin’s Atelier Cabinotiers revives the very unique spirit of 18th century Geneva. At that time, prestigious clients came to order directly from the cabinotiers, the watch industry craftsmen who forged the city’s reputation. Royalty such as King Fouad of Egypt or his son King Farouk were also fervent collectors of one-of-a-kind models created by the Manufacture.

Today, for the first time, Vacheron Constantin is unveiling two timepieces ordered from Atelier Cabinotiers, a new and unique service that custom-makes Fine Watches.

Secrecy and confidentiality surround most of the watches made to order by Vacheron Constantin. Sometimes embodying the wildest of dreams, always expressions of a burning desire, they are heard of more often than seen. These exceptional collection pieces come to life in Geneva at Atelier Cabinotiers.

Unique in the watchmaking industry, this custom-building department offers clients a very exclusive service representing far more than just a finished product and based on the attentive listening skills and expertise of this Fine Watchmaking Manufacture founded in 1755.

By providing this service, the latter is reviving the spirit of the cabinotiers, the highly specialised Geneva craftsmen who made the city famous beginning in the 11th century – first in jewellery, and then in watchmaking. This year, for the first time, Vacheron Constantin is unveiling two unique pieces stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva and made by its Atelier Cabinotiers service.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Philosophia

This one of a kind, custom made model is christened Philosophia by its owner. It brilliantly sets the scene for the peaceful coexistence of Fine Watchmaking and approximate time. The original idea was based on the postulate that mankind does not need to constantly know the exact time to the nearest minute.

In some parts of the world, making an appointment “in the morning” or “in the evening” is quite sufficient to allow two people to meet. In the same spirit, knowing that it is 12 or 17 minutes past ten o’clock does not make the Philosophia’s owner any happier or unhappier.

However, while this man has decided on a lifestyle of displaying approximate time, he is no less a connoisseur of excellence. Far from being indifferent, he is in fact a Fine Watchmaking enthusiast and a major collector of timepieces.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Philosophia Watch

The Philosophia conveys all of these things at once. Based on a model from the Patrimony collection, it has only one hand in the centre, the hour hand, with a 24-hour display, allowing the approximate hour to be read without worrying about the minutes.

But if the owner wants a more exact idea of the time at any given moment, he simply engages the on-off slide of the Philosophia’s minute repeater, which reveals the exact hour, quarter hour and minute. If the hand is a little before 6 o’clock, the chime will sound five times on a low note, three times on a low-to-high note pair, and, for example, twelve times on a high note. That means it is exactly 5:57.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Philosophia Watch

Another sophisticated touch in the Philosophia is an opening in the dial at 6 o’clock that reveals a tourbillon rotating once every 60 seconds. The commissioner of the piece, who also likes astronomy, asked for a customised precision moon phase; the moon is shown with its craters, and a single star – the pole star—shines near it.

On the back of the watch, the power reserve indicator bears a small plaque stamped with the intertwined constellations Ursa Major and Ursa Minor. Nearby, engraved in the 18-carat pink gold of the custom case, the identifying phrase “Les Cabinotiers” and the Atelier Cabinotiers coat of arms attest to the exceptional origin of this timepiece, which is also stamped with the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Philosophia Watch

Highly customised, the entire Philosophia – a one-of-a-kind model – was made piece by piece at Vacheron Constantin by Atelier Cabinotiers. At its owner’s request, it was engraved with “No Un/Un” [No. One/One] instead of the usual “1/1” marked on one-of-a-kind pieces.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Philosophia Watch

This attention to detail was the rule for all 522 components of the hand-wound mechanical movement that makes the Philosophia tick. The movement that drives a minute repeater, a 60-second tourbillon and the moon-phase display. Careful attention was paid to the finishes of all components; even the surfaces that will never be seen are hand decorated.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Philosophia Watch

This is true, for example, of the plate and its hand matt-effect file-stroke treatment, which gives it a very beautiful granulated sandy effect but which no one –except the watchmaker who takes the watch apart for maintenance – will ever see. Another special detail is the openwork at the centre of the escapement wheel, which provides a place for a pierced Maltese Cross motif, the symbol of Vacheron Constantin.

Unique in its spirit, aesthetics and exclusive mechanism, the Philosophia model was recently delivered to its owner by Vacheron Constantin’s Atelier Cabinotiers. It goes without saying that the presentation box as well as all the accessories and related documents – including the instructions – were also custom-made, one of each.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Philosophia Watch
Reference: 80173/000R9483

Movement
Calibre: 2755 , Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva
Energy:Mechanical, manual-winding
Movement diameter: 33.30 mm
Movement thickness: 7.65 mm
Jewels: 40
Frequency: 18’000 vibrations / hour (2.5 Hz)

Indications
Hours 24 H, second on tourbillon
Minute Repeater
Tourbillon
Power reserve on the back of the watch
Power reserve: Approx. 58 hours
Bespoke power reserve dial engraved with “great and lesser Bear”

Case
18K 5N pink gold
43 mm in diameter
Convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on one side
Water-Resistance: None

Dial
Silvered opaline
Moon-phases disc in 18K 5N pink gold
Black painted minute-track and 11 Arabic numerals

Strap
Brown Mississipiensis alligator leather, square scales,hand-stitched, saddle finish

Clasp
Buckle in 18K 5N pink gold
Polished half Maltese Cross

Unique piece
Case-back engraved with “Les Cabinotiers” identification and “AC” Hallmark

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Vladimir

The second special order was named Vladimir by its owner. This Slavic first name is derived from the ancient term Volodimir, which literally means “domination by peace” or “peace to all.”

This superlative watch is none other than one of the world’s most complicated timepieces. That is what its owner wanted, and Vacheron Constantin’s Atelier Cabinotiers gathered the resources to meet this very ambitious goal.

As it began this extraordinary adventure and accepted this uncommon mechanical challenge, Vacheron Constantin knew it could count on its unusual expertise garnered over an uninterrupted span of more than 250 years in business.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Vladimir Watch

The Genevese Manufacture had demonstrated this during its quarter-millennial celebration in 2005 by designing and producing in its own workshops what was at the time the world’s most complicated wristwatch, the famous Tour de l’Ile. The Vladimir model that has just left Ateliers Cabinotiers is even more complicated than that legendary model of 2005.

The hand-wound mechanical movement of this unique Vladimir watch drives no less than 17 complications. This exceptional movement, bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, has some 891 components, all hand-finished or hand-decorated at Vacheron Constantin. It is both a technical and aesthetic triumph that took Atelier Cabinotiers and its top-flight watchmakers four years to develop.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Vladimir Watch

Vladimir’s main dial was hand-engraved on a rose engine at Atelier Cabinotiers, gives an indication of the complexity of this horological masterpiece and reveals an impressive array of complications, in addition to the usual display of hours and minutes.

To begin with the supreme example, the very refined 60-second tourbillon mechanism stands out at 6 o’clock, while next to it at 3 o’clock appears the moon phase on a blue sky with a precision moon in gold, smiling or serious depending on the phase and hand-engraved by Atelier Cabinotiers craftsmen. To its right, a smaller counter with a small blued hand indicates the striking mechanism torque, i.e., whether the minute repeater mechanism is engaged.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Vladimir Watch

In addition to the hour and minute hands – one-of-a-kind pieces made especially for this watch –that travel around the slightly off-centre minute markers, the front side of the main dial provides a second time zone with day/night indicator at 11 o’clock. The power reserve indicator is located in the 9 o’clock sector, also enhanced by a 52-week indicator.

At this point, we have already seen seven easily identifiable complications on a well-balanced dial – with all of the motifs and materials having been selected by the purchaser – that are perfectly legible and aesthetically flawless. As another sign of the personalisation evident throughout the entire creative process, the guilloché pattern on the dial was also chosen by the collector of this exceptional timepiece.

The back is no less admirable than the front, having a wealth of information that is pleasantly arranged, exciting, subtle and surprising. On the upper portion, the perpetual calendar dials are arranged in a triangle, displaying the days of the week, month and date from left to right.

A small window at 1 o’clock shows the leap-year cycle. In the centre of the dial, a blued hand sweeps over a small sector devoted to the equation of time, the variable difference observable between true (solar) time and the time marked by clocks, which for convenience is divided into equal intervals.

Two other pieces of astronomical information are conveyed by hands traversing two sectors at 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock: the time of sunrise and sunset. The list of functions ends in a blaze of glory with a precision sky chart of the northern hemisphere, as one rarely sees it.

This exceptional mechanical watch bearing the Hallmark of Geneva has a setting to match. The Vladimir’s case is itself a work of art, epitomising the legendary expertise and nimble fingers of Atelier Cabinotiers’ artistic craftsmen.

On the sides of this unique and imposing piece, which is 47 mm in diameter, the signs of the Chinese zodiac appear in bas-relief. The motifs and the bas-relief technique (which is extremely rare in watchmaking) used here were both done by request of the owner.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Vladimir Watch

Before getting to the heart of the matter with regard to the subject and materials, the designers showed the purchaser many sketches. The decision was then made to depict the signs of the zodiac on both sides of the case, which itself is made of 18-carat pink gold.

In the end, the twelve figures – from the dragon through the rabbit and the rooster to the snake – were made to stand out slightly from the main body of 18-carat pink gold. It was a colossal task for the engravers – the twelve figures alone took more than six months – and required that a very special case first had to be made with extra-thick sides, from which the superfluous material was removed, carving roughly at first and then in very fine detail.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Vladimir Watch

As with every other timepiece from Vacheron Constantin’s workshop, the case was then polished very subtly, a task made all the more difficult by the fact that it absolutely must not destroy the engraver’s incredible work on the bas-reliefs.

In order to meet the challenge and create this extremely complex and unique timepiece, Atelier Cabinotiers called on more than 20 experts and craftsmen. It was a Herculean effort for a watch that deserves to join the legendary ranks of exceptional watchmaking.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Vladimir Watch
Reference: 80253/000R-9593

Movement
Calibre: 2750, Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva
Energy Mechanical, manual-winding
Movement diameter: 36.00 mm
Movement thickness: 11.25 mm
Jewels: 38
Frequency: 18’000 Vibrations / hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: Approx. 58 hours

Indications
Hours, minutes, second on tourbillon
Minute repeater
Perpetual Calendar
Power reserve
Second time zone
Moon phase indication, age of the moon
Striking-mechanism torque
Perpetual time equation
Sunrise, sunset
Celestial map
Week number indication

Case
18K 5N pink gold
47.00 mm in diameter
Convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on one side
Manual engraving of the 12 Chinese zodiac signs on the side of the case
Water-Resistance: None

Dial
18K white gold
Hand-guilloched
Minute-track painted in white
8 applied hour markers in 18K pink gold

Strap
Brown Mississipiensis alligator leather, square scales, hand-stitched, saddle finish

Clasp
Buckle in 18K 5N pink gold
Polished half Maltese Cross

Unique piece
Case-back engraved with “Les Cabinotiers” identification and “AC” Hallmark

Chopard L.U.C 150

To mark its 150th anniversary, Chopard presents one of the major complications of the watchmaking art: the Equation of Time which, in association with the Perpetual Calendar, provides a mechanical reflection of the fabulous dance of the heavenly bodies.

Further enhanced with a Tourbillon, this masterpiece of complexity – chronometer-certified by the COSC and bearing the Poinçon de Genève – is naturally issued in a strictly limited edition.

Chopard L.U.C 150 watch

High-end watchmaking welcomes a major new reference model with the L.U.C 150 “all in one” watch, admirably showcasing the brand’s in-house movement manufacturing expertise as the brand prepares to celebrate its 150th anniversary.

This exceptional timepiece beats to the cadence of the new hand-wound L.U.C 4TQE calibre, entirely designed, developed and produced by Chopard Manufacture. It represents a superlative crowning accomplishment of the work undertaken by Chopard Manufacture since its creation in 1996.

Chopard L.U.C 150 watch with perpetual calendar and tourbillon

Chronometer-certified by the COSC and bearing the prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, the L.U.C 4TQE movement houses four barrels endowing it with a seven-day power reserve.

It powers displays of the hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon, a perpetual calendar showing a 24-hour indication, the day of the week, the date through a window, the month, the leap year, the power reserve, along with a 24-hour indication, the equation of time, sunrise and sunset times and moon phases. Comprising 516 parts and 42 jewels, the L.U.C 4TQE movement beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations/hour.

A rare complication, the equation of time shows the difference between true solar time (that of nature) and mean solar time (or civilian time). The Earth follows an elliptical orbit around the earth, and its axis is also inclined in relation to the plane of the equator.

This means that the period of time between two passages of the sun through the highest point in the sky (noon) is not the same length throughout the year. It lasts exactly 24 hours just four times a year (on April 15th, June 14th, September 1st and December 24th).

For the rest of the year, the elapsed time is sometimes shorter and sometimes longer. The difference between true solar time and mean solar time – which may vary between minus 16 minutes and 23 seconds on November 4th to plus 14 minutes and 22 seconds on February 11th – is referred to as the equation of time. The display of this difference between “natural” and “civil” time is one of the complications featured in the new L.U.C 150 “all in one” model.

Chopard L.U.C 150 perpetual calendar tourbillon watch

The 46 mm-diameter case of the L.U.C 150 “all in one” is crafted in white gold and water-resistant to 30 metres. It adopts the new style of the L.U.C complication models unveiled for the brand’s 150th anniversary. Vertical satin-brushed finishes and lugs with polished tops are part of this renewal, as are the newly shaped hands, the new fonts and the redesigned Roman numerals enhancing the dial.

The multiple indications and complications of this perpetual calendar, equation of time and tourbillon watch are displayed on the gold guilloché-worked upper dial, as well as on the second dial on the case-back side.

Chopard L.U.C 150 watch case back view

In addition to the hours, minutes and small seconds on the tourbillon at 6 o’clock, the upper dial displays the perpetual calendar with 24-hour indication and the day of the week at 9 o’clock, the large date window at 12 o’clock, along with the month and the leap year at 3 o’clock.

The equally guilloché-worked gold plate of the dial on the case-back bears the equation of time, power reserve, 24-hour day/night indication, sunrise and sunset times, as well as the astronomical orbital moon-phase display depicting the dance of the heavenly bodies – set to coincide with Geneva – and its mechanical expression.

The new L.U.C 150 “all in one” is fitted with a half-glossy alligator leather strap with a gold pin buckle adorned with the Chopard logo.

It is issued in a strictly limited edition of 15 in white gold, 15 in rose gold and 15 in white gold set with baguette-cut diamonds.

Technical details

Model: Chopard L.U.C 150

Case
In 18-carat white or rose gold
Satin-brushed/polished
Diameter: 46.00 mm
Thickness: 18.50 mm
Water-resistant to 30 metres
Gold crown with L.U.C logo: 8.50 mm
Multi-layered glareproof sapphire crystals front and back

Movement
Hand-wound, tourbillon L.U.C 4TQE
Total diameter: 33.00 mm
Thickness: 11.75 mm
Number of jewels; 42
Frequency: 28,800 vph
4 barrels
Power reserve:189 hours (7 days)
Chronometer certification (COSC)
Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark

Dial and hands
Hand-guilloché upper and lower dials
Silvered snailed hollowed counters
Black applied Roman numerals
Black Dauphine fusée hour and minutes hands
Black hands for the small seconds, perpetual calendar, equation of time and 24-hour day/night indication
Red hands for the power-reserve and sunrise and sunset indications

Functions and displays

Upper dial
Central hour and minute hands
Small seconds displayed on the tourbillon at 6 o’clock
Perpetual calendar with 24-hour indication and day of the week at 9 o’clock
Display of the month and leap year at 3 o’clock
Large date window at 12 o’clock

Lower dial
Display of the equation of time, power reserve, the-hour day/night indication, sunrise and sunset times in Geneva, and the astronomical orbital moon-phase

Strap and buckle
Black hand-sewn half-glossy alligator leather lined with brown alligator leather
Gold pin buckle

Edition
Ref. 161925-1001: White gold case version, 15-piece limited edition
Ref. 161925-5001: Rose gold case version, 15-piece limited edition
Ref. 171925-1001: White gold case with bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds, 15-piece limited edition

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle « Calibre 2253 » in Platinum

For 2010, Vacheron Constantin presents the Patrimony Traditionnelle “Calibre 2253” watch in the Collection Excellence Platine. This model features a major astronomical complication in terms of technical application.

Entirely constructed by Vacheron Constantin’s engineering department and developed over several thousands of hours, the new Calibre 2253 provides information derived from Earth’s orbit around the sun, notably a perpetual calendar, the equation of time and the times of sunrise and sunset. It has a tourbillon escapement as well.

To celebrate its 250th anniversary in 2005, Vacheron Constantin introduced the Saint-Gervais watch. Its Calibre 2250 tourbillon movement with a perpetual calendar had the then exceptional running time of 250 hours from the energy stored in four mainspring barrels. The experience gained in making the Calibre 2250 was applied to the development of the Calibre 2253. The new movement benefited from the latest techniques deployed by the manufacturer’s technicians, engineers and watchmakers.

Despite supporting extra mechanical complexity, the Calibre 2253 exhibits a breathtaking amount of power reserve – some 336 hours or 14 days of running time drawn from two pairs of coupled barrels. The power reserve is shown through the sapphire-crystal caseback.