Patek Philippe has launched a high-jewellery version of the Ref. 5374 Grand Complication with minute repeater and perpetual calendar. The platinum case and bezel of the new Patek Philippe 5374/300P-001 are paved with baguette-cut diamonds.
This new reference comes with a stunning the blue-lacquered dial. The flange is set with baguette-cut diamond minute markers and baguette-cut blue sapphire hour markers.
The Patek Philippe 5374/300P-001 Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar is equipped with the self-winding caliber R 27 Q. Its Minute repeater mechanism with “cathedral” gongs emits a deep, rich sound.
The watch is adorned with a total of 228 baguette-cut diamonds (11.62 cts) and 13 baguette-cut sapphires (0.72 ct).
Technical details
Model: Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374/300P-001
Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement
Caliber R 27 Q
Functions
Minute repeater with “cathedral” gongs
Perpetual calendar
Day, date, month, leap year and 24-hour indication by hands
Moon phases
Case
Platinum case
Interchangeable solid and sapphire crystal case backs
Humidity- and dust-protected only (not water-resistant)
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 12.28 mm
Dial
Blue-lacquered, black-gradient rim
Sapphire hour markers and diamond minute markers
18K gold dial plate
Bracelet
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny dusk blue
Diamond-set fold-over clasp
Gem-setting
Bezel and flange: 120 diamonds (7.1 ct)
Flange hour-markers: 13 sapphires (0.72 ct)
Case-band and slide: 86 diamonds (3.5 ct)
Clasp: 22 diamonds (1.02 ct)
Total of 228 baguette-cut diamonds (11.62 cts) and 13 baguette-cut sapphires (0.72 ct)
Unveiled during the Patek Philippe “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibition, this grand complication watch with minute repeater and perpetual calendar features a white-gold case with a blue grand feu enamel dial. This new model replaces the Ref. 5374P-001 in platinum with a black grand feu enamel dial.
The Ref. 5374 with a minute repeater and a perpetual calendar was introduced in 2016 in a platinum version with a black grand feu enamel dial. Now, Patek Philippe is offering a new edition in white gold with a blue grand feu enamel dial.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA
The case shape shows the subtle and harmonious interplay of rounds and cambers. The bezel has a concave profile. The same finesse is encountered in the manually satin-finished recesses in the case flank. They contrast beautifully against the polished case segments and against the cabochons that decorate the ends of the lugs.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA
The blue grand feu enamel dial is high-gloss finished, and features applied white-gold Breguet numerals. The displays of the perpetual calendar – day, date, month, and leap year cycle – are placed on slightly enlarged subsidiary dials, complemented with a 24-hour display. The leaf-shaped hands in white gold are filled with a luminous coating for excellent legibility. The moon-phase aperture is executed with the champlevé technique and framed in white gold.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA
This grand complication timepiece houses the self-winding caliber R 27 Q. The minute repeater mechanism strikes on two cathedral gongs, and their extended length of nearly twice the circumference of the movement produces a full, reverberant sound.
The shiny dusk blue alligator strap is secured with a white-gold fold-over clasp. The scope of delivery includes a sapphire-crystal case back and an interchangeable solid back.
Technical details
Model: Patek Philippe Minute Repeater with a Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 5374G-001
Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement
Caliber R 27 Q
Diameter: 28 mm
Height: 6.9 mm
Parts: 467
Bridges: 12
Jewels: 39
Power reserve: min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
Minirotor in 22K gold, unidirectional winding
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Functions
Minute repeater with “cathedral” gongs
Perpetual calendar
Day, date, month, leap year and 24-hour indication by hands
Moon phases
Case
White gold
Interchangeable full back and sapphire-crystal case back
Case is humidity and dust protected only (not water resistant)
Case diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.2 mm
Strap
Alligator leather with scare scales, hand-stitched, shiny dusk blue
Fold-over clasp
About Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 Collection
On the occasion of the “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibitionin June 2021, Patek Philippe launched six exceptional wristwatches featuring artistic decorations such as manual engraving, grand feu cloisonné enamel, grand feu champlevé enamel, grand feu flinqué enamel, manual guilloching and gemsetting.
Adorned with 80 baguette diamonds, this new rose-gold version of the Patek Philippe Minute Repeater and Retrograde Perpetual Calendar watch belongs to the Geneva Maison’s “Rare Handcrafts” series. This new grand complication watch features a transparent sapphire crystal dial, allowing the wearer to admire the movement from the front side of the watch.
The first Patek Philippe grand complication with a transparent sapphire-crystal dial was launched as the Ref. 5104 in 2006; it had a platinum case with rose-gold intarsias. From 2014 to 2018, it was followed by the Ref. 5304 in rose gold with white-gold intarsias.
Now, Patek Philippe has released a new haute joaillerie version in rose gold. Its bezel, lugs, and fold-over clasp sparkle with the fire of 80 flawless Top Wesselton baguette diamonds (~6.22 ct).
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA
For this timepiece, Patek Philippe developed an ingenious system for displaying the day, month, and leap year cycle with transparent sapphire-crystal disks in which the respective displays stand out in white against the black background of the small apertures beneath them. To attach the extremely thin sapphire-crystal disks to their minuscule steel arbors, it was necessary to develop an exclusive, patented assembly process.
The pierced leaf-shaped hands in black-lacquered white gold also enhance the view of the movement and its steel parts with beveled and polished edges that stand out beautifully against the rose gilt plates decorated with perlage. The flyback date display features a hand with a crescent moon tip that marks the numerals on a scale at the outermost edge of the dial. The perpetual calendar is complemented with a moon-phase display at 6 o’clock and a subsidiary seconds dial.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA
To further refine the appeal of this timepiece, Patek Philippe integrated delicate white-gold inlays with engraved leaf motifs in the case flanks and the repeater slide.
The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the magnificent views of the self-winding caliber R 27 PS QR LU movement, especially the minute repeater mechanism with two gongs or the centrifugal governor beneath the pierced Calatrava cross motif. The recessed off-center minirotor in rose gold is decorated with a leaf motif and rhodiumed sinks.
Technical details
Model: Patek Philippe Minute Repeater with a Retrograde Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 5304/301R-001
Movement
Caliber R 27 PS QR LU
Self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter: 28 mm
Height: 7.23 mm
Parts: 517
Bridges: 12
Jewels: 41
Power reserve: min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
22K gold off-center mini-rotor
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Functions
Minute repeater with classic gongs
Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand
Day, month and leap year in apertures
Moon phases by hand
Small seconds
Dial
Transparent sapphire, date and minute markers printed in white with golden powdered dots
Case
Rose gold
Sapphire crystal case back
Humidity- and dust-protected only (not water-resistant)
Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 13.3 mm
Gem-setting: 58 baguette diamonds: ~5.25 cts. (bezel and lugs). 22 baguette diamonds: ~0.97 ct. (clasp). Total of 80 baguette diamonds: ~6.22 cts.
Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny black
Diamond-set fold-over clasp
About Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 Collection
On the occasion of the “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibitionin June 2021, Patek Philippe launched six exceptional wristwatches featuring artistic decorations such as manual engraving, grand feu cloisonné enamel, grand feu champlevé enamel, grand feu flinqué enamel, manual guilloching and gemsetting.
Flagship of the commemorative pieces presented on the occasion of the manufacture’s 175th anniversary in 2014, the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime (reference 5175) entered the regular collection in 2016.
Presented at the Basel-world 2016 exhibition, the Grandmaster Chime Reference 6300 was endowed with a white-gold case and black and white dials. Its timeless style now extends to a new white-gold version with two elegant blue opaline dials.
The first Patek Philippe wristwatch with grande and petite sonnerie, this double-face reversible model also stands out as the most complicated Patek Philippe wristwatch in regular production.
Its 20 complications include five chiming modes, including two patented world firsts: an acoustic alarm that strikes the preselected time and a date repeater sounding the date on demand.
The case, adorned with a hand-guilloched hobnail pattern, is notable for its patented reversing mechanism enabling the watch to be worn with either dial on view.
The front side, with its center decorated with a hand-guilloched hobnail motif, displays the on/off indications for the acoustic functions, together with civil time, a second time zone, the moon phases, the date, and the power-reserve indicators for the movement and the strikework.
The reverse side is devoted to the perpetual calendar, with a central four-digit year display surrounded by four subsidiary dials (analog date, leap-year cycle, day, month and 24-hour indicator).
Between the two 18K gold dials beats the caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM manually wound movement comprising 1,366 parts.
The drive energy is stored in two double barrels, one for the movement, the other for the strikework. Isolator mechanisms make the watch easy to use and exclude all risk of damage from accidental mishandling.
The new Ref. 6300G-010 with blue dials replaces the previous version in white gold with black and white dials.
It is accompanied by white gold cuff links with blue opaline centers, decorated with a hand-guilloched hobnail pattern.
Technical details
Model: Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300G-010, New White Gold Version with Blue Opaline Dials
Movement
Caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM
Manual winding
Grande and petite sonnerie
Minute repeater with classic gongs
Strikework mode display (S G P)
Alarm with time strike
Alarm on/off indication
Date repeater
Movement and strikework power reserve indication
Strikework isolator indication
Second time zone
Second time zone day/night indication
Instantaneous perpetual calendar
Day, date (on both dials), month, leap-year cycle by hands
Four-digit year display in an aperture
Moon phases
24-hour and minute subdial
Crown position indication (R A H)
Diameter: 37 mm
Height: 10.70 mm
Number of parts: 1366
Frequency: 25,200 semi-oscillations/hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: movement: 72 hours; strikework: 30 hours
Displays
Hour hand
Second time zone hour hand
Minute hand
Subsidiary dials:
– 24-hour and minute indication
– Alarm with time strike
– Movement power reserve
– Strikework power reserve
– Strikework mode indication S G P (silence/grande sonnerie/petite sonnerie)
– Crown position indication R A H (winding [R], alarm [A], time setting [H])
– Date (on both dials)
– Day of the week
– Month
– Leap year cycle Apertures:
– Second time zone day/night indication
– Moon phases
– Alarm on/off indication
– Strikework isolator indication
– Four-digit year display
Pushers
Minute repeater on demand
Date repeater
Alarm “on”
Adjustment of second time zone (press once = +1 hour)
Adjustment of second time zone (press once = -1 hour)
Correctors
Date correction
Day-of-week correction
Month correction
Chime selection (S G P)
Year correction (press once = +1 year)
Year correction (press once = -1 year)
Moon-phase correction
Three-position crown:
1. Winding the movement (clockwise)
Winding the strikework (counterclockwise)
2. Alarm time setting and alarm “off”
3. Setting the time
Dials
Time side: blue opaline, gold applied Breguet numerals, hand-guilloched hobnail center
Calendar side: blue opaline
18K solid gold dial plates
White gold pear-shaped hands
Case
White gold
Reversible case adorned with handguilloched hobnail pattern
Diameter: 47.7 mm
Height: 16.07 mm
Humidity- and dust-protected only (not water-resistant)
Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny navy blue
Fold-over clasp
Cuff Links
Blue opaline center adorned with hand guilloched hobnail pattern
White gold
Delivered with the watch
Unveiled at SIHH 2019 in Geneva, the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar is a one-of-a-kind model created by the Les Cabinotiers department of Vacheron Constantin
In the 18th century, the most experienced Geneva watchmakers exercised their talent in light-filled workshops called ‘cabinets’, located on the top floor of the city’s buildings. Crafting extraordinary complicated bespoke watches, these alchemists of time came to be known as ‘cabinotiers’. Accomplished masters of their art, they cultivated a blend of technical and manual skills backed by vast scientific knowledge and curiosity for new ideas, nurtured by the philosophy of the Age of Enlightenment.
In response to the highest technical, aesthetic and artistic challenges, the one-of-a-kind Vacheron Constantin models now crafted in its Les Cabinotiers department, heir to this prestigious past, are a delight to the most demanding connoisseurs of Haute Horlogerie. The new Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar, driven by an unprecedented calibre, is a further illustration of this exclusive approach.
The one-of-a-kind Les Cabinotiers minute repeater perpetual calendar is equipped with a revisited movement: Calibre 1731 QP, combining minute repeater and perpetual calendar functions at the heart of a delightfully slender 42 mm-diameter gold case.
The challenge for the in-house watchmakers lays in pairing two of the most sophisticated horological complications within an ultra-thin movement measuring just 5.70 mm thick, while ensuring precision, reliability and user friendliness. Among the technical feats accompanying the origins of this watch, the Maison’s Les Cabinotiers department developed a perfectly silent strike governor serving to control the cadence of the hammers in striking the gongs.
No less than 438 components, some of them no thicker than a hair’s breadth, compose this sophisticated horological ‘alchemy’ within a mechanical manual-winding movement. Beating at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) and endowed with a 65-hour power reserve, it drives the full set of hours, minutes, day, date, month, leap-year indication, moon phase and minute repeater functions.
Despite the complexity of this watch, Vacheron Constantin was determined to make it a model cultivating the elegance, discretion and other aesthetic values that have become its signature. The 42 mm-diameter case in white or pink gold features extremely pure lines. Only the minute repeater slide on the left-hand side of the case expresses the complexity of this model and testifies to its ability to set an audible cadence for time.
The gleam of the precious polished metal beautifully frames the deep colour of the midnight blue or brown dial, depending on the version. The day, date and month indications, appearing in the upper part of the dial, are displayed in an extremely legible manner, and thereby leave plenty of space for the gold Moon to pursue its poetic dance amid the stars, against a beautifully understated backdrop.
This arrangement of the various dial indications ensures a pleasingly balanced and elegant watch face, while the blue and brown colour lends a dynamic and modern touch.
Technical details
Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar
Reference 6610C/000G-B511
Movement
CALIBRE 1731 QP
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
32.80 mm diameter, 5.70 mm thick
Approximately 65 hours of power reserve
3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
438 components
36 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certifed timepiece
Indications
Hours, minutes
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month, leap year)
Moon phases
Minute Repeater
Case
18K white gold
42 mm diameter, 10.44 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Dial
Blue opaline dial
18K white gold hour-markers
Moon in 18K white gold
Strap
Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Buckle
18K white gold folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped
Box
Les Cabinotiers winding-box made of Makassar ebony wood, interior in Nabuka
Movement
CALIBRE 1731 QP
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
32.8 mm diameter, 5.70 mm thick
Approximately 65 hours of power reserve
3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
438 components
36 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Indications
Hours, minutes
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month, leap year)
Moon phases
Minute Repeater
Case
18K 5N pink gold
42 mm diameter, 10.44 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Dial
Brown opaline dial
18K 5N pink gold hour-markers
Moon in 18K 5N pink gold
Strap
Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
In January 2018 at SIHH haute-horlogerie exhibition, Vacheron Constantin unveiled two one-of-a-kind grand complication timepieces – “Ornementale” and “Crocodile” – from their prestigious Les Cabinotiers Collection of highly exclusive mechanical timepieces that house multiple horological complications allied with artistic crafts.
A feat of miniaturisation and handcrafted excellence epitomised in two manual-winding calibres respectively driving 16 and 15 complications displayed between front and back dials, framed by a hand-chased gold case.
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Crocodile »
The twin dials of the Grande Complication “Ornementale” and Grande Complication “Crocodile” are adorned with deep shades of aubergine and slate grey, while their cases are respectively engraved with ornamental “Victorian” and crocodile patterns. An elegant alligator leather strap secured by a pin buckle likewise engraved according to the given theme sets the finishing touch to these prestigious watches, presented in a luxurious Makassar ebony wood winder box.
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Ornementale »
The manual-winding calibres of these two one-of-a-kind models respectively drive 16 and 15 complications, mostly astronomical. In addition to the hours and minutes, the first (front) dial displays 11 other functions: minute repeater, equation of time, tourbillon, perpetual calendar indicating the date, day of the week, month and leap years, power reserve, as well as sunrise and sunset times.
Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication “Ornementale” also bears an indicator of striking mechanism torque (the power reserve of the minute repeater). The second (back) dial features an array of fascinating astronomical complications: sky chart, equinox and solstice, sidereal hours and minutes, age and phases of the moon, as well as seasons and zodiac signs.
These two new creations are inspired by the famous Tour de l’Île by Vacheron Constantin, paying tribute to 250 years of watchmaking expertise cultivated by the Geneva-based Manufacture.
Launched in 2005, the Tour de l’Île is one of the world’s most complicated wristwatches ever manufactured. The two new masterpieces once again showcase Vacheron Constantin’s expertise in combining a wealth of complications within a small space and magnifying them by remarkable Artistic Crafts.
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Crocodile »
On the front, the various major complications are displayed with exemplary clarity and distinction. The minute repeater striking the hours, quarters and minutes on demand is equipped with an ingenious centripetal flywheel strike governor. Perfectly silent and preventing undue wear of the mechanism, it regulates the duration of the musical sequence in order to ensure melodious and distinctly audible notes.
The tourbillon is equipped with a carriage shaped like the Maltese cross emblem of the Maison. The tourbillon rotates at a rate of one complete turn per minute, making light of gravity in order to improve the movement’s precision and also serving as a small seconds display. Meanwhile, the perpetual calendar is capable of keeping up with the complexities of the Gregorian calendar without any need for human intervention other than a date change every 400 years.
On the back of the watch, the second dial is also graced with a wealth of functions, arranged on two levels. The central disc bears a sky chart as well as the four cardinal points. Two North and South openings reveal the month of the year and sidereal hours, corresponding to “true” time.
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Ornementale »
A small hand running around the rim shows the age of the moon, meaning the number of days since the last full moon; while a long slender hand featuring a counterweight adorned with a tiny sun indicates the date as well as the zodiac sign, the season and the corresponding equinox or solstice.
Incorporating the equation of time mechanism into a watch for measuring the difference in minutes between solar time and standard legal time, requires considerable expertise. Setting the finishing touch to this first dial, a “customised complication” displays sunset and sunrise times, adjustable according to the reference city chosen by the client.
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Crocodile »
Among the most complex movements ever made by Vacheron Constantin, these two calibres – comprising 839 parts for the Grande Complication “Ornementale” and 836 for the Grande Complication “Crocodile” – endowed with a 58-hour power reserve measure just 33.90 mm in diameter and 12.15 thick.
Entirely developed and manufactured in-house, these calibres are housed in a 47 mm-diameter gold case whose characteristics are specifically designed to ensure the best possible sound quality of the minute repeater. In addition, each of the components, finely adjusted and harmonised to guarantee optimal performance, is distinguished by meticulous hand-crafted finishing.
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Ornementale »
This exceptional timepiece displays its multiple functions on two gold dials crafted in an elegant aubergine purple shade with a sunray satin-finish. The front dial is graced with applied hour-markers, Dauphine-type hands and finely snailed counters, suffused with the radiance of the finely crafted white gold case.
The bezel, caseband, lugs and pin buckle are adorned with an ornamental pattern inspired by 19th century Victorian architecture.
Reflecting the traditional skills cultivated by the Maison, this miniature sculpture represents a feat of dexterity and meticulous care, combining pounced ornament and bas-relief techniques with various types of fine line engraving.
Technical details
Model: Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Ornementale Reference 80175/000G-B280 Hallmark of Geneva
Movement
Caliber Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
33.9 mm (14’’’ ¾) diameter
12.15 mm thick
Approximately 58 hours of power reserve
2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
839 components
42 jewels
Indications
Hours, minutes
Small second at 6 o’clock on tourbillon carriage
16 complications:
1. Minute repeater
2. Tourbillon
3-7 Perpetual calendar (date, day of the week, month, leap year)
8. Power reserve
9. Equation of time
10. Sunrise time
11. Sunset time
12. Sky chart
13. Age and phases of the moon
14. Sidereal hours and minutes
15. Seasons, zodiac signs
16. Striking mechanism torque
Setting
Hours and minutes adjustment: winding crown (2 positions)
Moon phase adjustment: correction push-piece on the case
Perpetual calendar adjustment: two correction push-pieces on the case
Sky chart adjustment: with crown and screwed-down push-piece
Case
18K white gold with bezel, case band, and back-side hand-engraved with an ornamental “Victorian” pattern
47 mm diameter, 19.10 mm thick
Dials (face & back side)
18K white gold, eggplant sunray satin-finished
18K white gold applied hour-markers
18K white gold hands
Strap
Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Buckle: 18K white gold open buckle with ornamental “Victorian” pattern; Polished half Maltese cross-shaped
Box
Prestige winder box made of Makassar ebony wood
Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen, a magnifying glass
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Crocodile »
This timepiece radiates charisma in a case adorned with two crocodiles and scales in varying sizes. Portraying the reptiles in relief, sculpted from a single block of metal using the pounced ornament technique and various types of fine line engraving (matt, sandblasted, brushed and polished) involves carefully controlled operations requiring virtuoso skill.
The finesse of the work on the scales dotted across the bezel, lugs and caseback instil vibrant life, light and contrasts into this miniature masterpiece, born under the expert touch of an experienced master engraver.
This pink gold workmanship makes a perfect match with the understated elegance of the two slate-coloured dials on the front and back of the watch. This eminently legible and refined display is enhanced on the front with pink gold applied hour-markers, leaf-shaped hands and finely snailed counters.
Engraved with the inscriptions “Pièce Unique”, “Les Cabinotiers”, and bearing the “AC” (Atelier Cabinotiers) hallmark engraved on the caseback, Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication “Ornementale” et “Crocodile” watches are fitted with a Mississippiensis alligator strap secured by a hand-engraved buckle and presented in an opulent Makassar ebony wood winder box, complete with a corrector pen and a magnifying glass.
Technical details
Model: Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Crocodile Reference 9700C/001R-B187 Hallmark of Geneva
Movement
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
33.9 mm (14’’’ ¾) diameter
12.15 mm thick
Approximately 58 hours of power reserve
2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
836 components
42 jewels
Indications
Hours, minutes
Small second at 6 o’clock on tourbillon carriage
15 complications:
1. Minute repeater
2. Tourbillon
3-7. Perpetual calendar (date, day of the week, month, leap year)
8. Power reserve
9. Equation of time
10. Sunrise time
11. Sunset time
12. Sky chart
13. Age and phases of the moon
14. Sidereal hours and minutes
15. Seasons, zodiac signs
Setting
Hours and minutes adjustment: winding crown (2 positions)
Moon phase adjustment: correction push-piece on the case
Perpetual calendar adjustment: two correction push-pieces on the case
Sky chart adjustment: with crown and screwed-down push-piece
Case
18K 5N pink gold with crocodile pattern hand engraved on the case band
47 mm diameter, 19.10 mm thick
Strap
Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Buckle: 18K 5N pink gold open buckle with “crocodile pattern”; Polished half Maltese cross-shaped
Box
Prestige winder box made of Makassar ebony wood
Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen, a magnifying glass
With a very fresh and distinctive appearance, the new, highly complex Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300 has taken over the top position in Patek Philippe’s ranking of the most complicated regularly produced wristwatches.
The 20 complications of the double-face watch include five chiming functions, two of which are patented world debuts. It comes in a white-gold case with a patented reversing mechanism that allows the timepiece to be worn with either dial facing up.
The new Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300 should not be confused with the commemorative Ref. 5175 of the same name. With its breathtakingly hand-engraved rose-gold case, the latter is a limited, seven watch edition.
The new Grandmaster Chime features an inimitably new white-gold case with a hand guilloched hobnail pattern and now belongs to Patek Philippe’s regular collection. However, the process of crafting it is so time-consuming that the Ref. 6300 will also remain an exclusive rarity.
It strikes the time on three gongs: either automatically every quarter-hour with the Grande or Petite Sonnerie, accurate to the minute with the minute repeater, as an alarm that strikes the preset alarm time, or – for greater time intervals – with the date repeater that acoustically indicates the date on demand.
The modes of these sonorous functions are displayed on the front dial, which also indicates the time, a second time zone, the moon phases, the date, and the power-reserve of the movement and strikework spring barrels.
The opposite side is dedicated to the perpetual calendar. Its center is a four digit year display surrounded by four subsidiary dials: the analog date with the leap year cycle at 6 o’clock, the day of the week at 9 o’clock, the month at 3 o’clock, and the 24-hour time indication at 12 o’clock.
The most complicated wristwatch movement ever made by Patek Philippe – the manually wound caliber GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM, composed of 1366 parts – ticks between the two solid-gold dials. Its energy is stored in two double spring barrels. One keeps the movement running for 72 hours. The other one powers the strikework for 30 hours.
It is endowed with numerous supplementary mechanisms that enhance user-friendliness and virtually prevent potentially damaging inadvertent manipulations. The pushers and correctors are labeled with delicate engravings and the dial displays the individual functional modes (time strike mode, alarm ON/OFF, crown position, etc.).
The new Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300 comes in an 18K white-gold case with a manually guilloched hobnail motif and features a reversing mechanism integrated between the strap lugs.
The black time-side dial with white printed scale elements as well as white-gold hands and appliques is also decorated with a hobnail pattern.
The dial on the opposite side, all in white, has black scales and hands. The watch is worn on a black alligator strap with a white-gold fold-over clasp.
Technical details
Model: Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300G-001
Movement
Caliber GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM
Manually wound mechanical movement, 20 complications, chiming mechanism with 3 gongs and 5 different time strikes (Grande and Petite Sonnerie, minute repeater, alarm with time strike, date repeater); second time zone with day/night indicator; instantaneous perpetual calendar (date on both sides, day of week, month, leap-year cycle, four-digit year display, 24-hour and minute subdial, moon phases, strikework mode display, strikework isolator display, alarm ON/OFF, crown position indicator, and power reserve indicators for the movement and the strikework
Diameter: 37 mm
Height: 10.7 mm
Number of parts: 1366
Number of jewels: 108
Number of bridges: 32
Movement power reserve: Min. 72 hours
Strikework power reserve: 30 hours
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 25,200 semi-oscillations per hour (3.5 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Functions
3-position crown
• Pushed home To wind the movement clockwise; to wind the strikework counter clockwise
• Pulled halfway out: To set the alarm time
• Pulled all the way out: To set the time
• Strikework mode selector at 9 o’clock
Time dial displays
Local time in hours and minutes, hours in a second time zone, alarm time, analog perpetual date, moon phases, strikework power-reserve indicator, movement power-reserve indicator, strikework mode display, crown position indicator, strikework isolator display (chimes enabled/disabled), alarm ON/OFF
Calendar dial displays
24-hour and minute subdial, four-digit year display, three calendar subdials with analog indications for the day, month, date, and leap-year cycle
Pushers
Pushers for the second time zone (“+” and “-“), alarm, minute repeater
Correction push pieces
Year display (“+” and “-“), date, month, day, moon phases
Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal
Case
Round, with patented reversing mechanism on the axis from 12 to 6 o’clock, 18K white gold, 214 parts, sapphire crystals on both sides, protected against dust and moisture, not water-resistant
Case band with hand-guilloched hobnail pattern
Manually engraved function lettering and symbols on the case band and pushers
Diameter (10 to 4 o’clock): 47.4 mm
Thickness (crystal to crystal): 16.1 mm
Time side dial
18K gold, ebony black opaline, center with hand-guilloched hobnail pattern, applied Breguet numerals in 18K white gold
Local time hour and minute hands in 18K white gold, hour hand for second time zone in 18K white gold
Hands for alarm time, movement and strikework power-reserve indicators, strikework mode and crown position in 18K white gold
Calendar side dial
18K gold, white opaline, center with polished gold frame for the four digit year display
Subsidiary dials for the 24-hour display, day, month, date, and leap year cycle with black printed scales and black nickel-plated steel hands
Strap
Alligator leather with large square scales, shiny black, hand-stitched white contrast seams, fold-over clasp in 18K white gold
One of the great classics of the Patek Philippe wrist Grand Complications between 1993 and 2011, Reference 5016 unites in its Calatrava-style case three of the complications most highly prized by devotees of exceptional watches: the tourbillon, the minute repeater and the perpetual calendar with moon-phase display.
As an additional refinement, the perpetual calendar is endowed with a retrograde date hand, which flies back to the 1stof the month after having reached the 28th, 29th, 30th or 31st under the action of an ingenious mechanism controlled by a spiral-coiled spring.
This graceful interplay of sophisticated functions is orchestrated by a movement comprising 506 parts, all painstakingly finished by hand with the dedication to excellence for which the manufacture is known.
Reference 5016A-010 was created specially for Only Watch 2015 and is the first and only version of this watch to be produced in steel.
The sheen of this metal, rarely seen in a Patek Philippe Grand Complication, compliments a blue enameled dial that perpetuates the tradition of the rare handcrafts.
Technical details
Model: Patek Philippe Grand Complication Ref. 5016A-010 for Only Watch 2015, Unique Piece
Movement
Caliber R TO 27 PS QR Manual winding
Functions
Minute repeater
Tourbillon
Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand
Day, month and leap year in apertures
Moon phases
Seconds subdial at 6o’clock
Dial
Blue enameled dial with gold applied Breguet numerals
18K gold dial plate
Case
Steel Case
Interchangeable full back and sapphire-crystal case back
Case is humidity and dust protected only (not water resistant)
Case diameter: 36.8 mm
Strap
Alligator leather strap, shiny navy blue, hand-stitched
Fold-over clasp
This year, prestigious Swiss watch manufacture Patek Philippe is celebrating its 175th anniversary and to mark this historic occasion the Geneva based manufacture unveils limited edition commemorative timepieces displaying the rich traditions of the revered brand.
One of the most remarkable models among them is Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 5175, so far most complicated wristwatch of the eminent family-owned watchmaking companies and decidedly one of the world’s most elaborate wristwatches.
This grand complication timepiece boasts twenty complications and two of which have been added to the annals of watchmaking for the first time. Moreover, the Grandmaster Chime is the first double-face wristwatch presented by Patek Philippe that can be worn with either dial facing up: the one that focuses on the time and the sonnerie, the other dedicated to the full instantaneous perpetual calendar.
Changing the face is very simple thanks to the ingenious reversing mechanism in the lugs. It is amazingly easy to operate and firmly secures the case in the selected position. Incidentally, the information for which a watch is most frequently consulted – the current time and the date – is displayed on both dials.
The ultimate in user-friendliness and safety is assured with intelligent mechanisms that prevent potentially damaging manipulations and thus reliably protect the highly complex movement with its intricate cosmos of tiny parts.
Patek Philippe’s Grandmaster Chime is a wrist-format timekeeping instrument of absolutely unprecedented complexity and ingenuity that establishes new benchmarks in terms of technical and aesthetic elegance.
Its double-face case with a diameter of 47 mm, it accommodates four spring barrels and no fewer than 20 complications, including coveted functions such as a Grande and Petite Sonnerie, a minute repeater, an instantaneous perpetual calendar with a four-digit year display, a second time zone, and two patented global debuts in the domain of chiming watches: an acoustic alarm that strikes the alarm time and a date repeater that sounds the date on demand. Four additional patents emphasize the innovative thrust behind this watch.
The Grandmaster Chime is a striking example of the “intelligent watch” as envisioned by Patek Philippe’s philosophy. To protect complicated timepieces against damage caused by inadvertent manipulations, the manfacture’s engineers devised clever “isolators” that interrupt the flow of power between individual mechanisms or block certain functions while others are active.
The engraved inscriptions and symbols on the case and the pushers are further hallmarks of convenience that make the Grandmaster Chime a self-explanatory grand complication watch.
The effort invested by Patek Philippe in this unique anniversary timepiece is remarkable. More than 100,000 hours were logged for development, production, and assembly, of which 60,000 hours for the components of the movement.
Each caliber consists of 1,366 parts and each case of 214 separate parts, bringing the total number of components for each Grandmaster Chime to 1,580. Thus, it took 11,060 meticulously hand-finished parts to assemble the seven limited-edition exemplars of Patek Philippe’s commemorative Grandmaster Chime masterpiece.
Grande and Petite Sonnerie
This complication automatically sounds the hours and quarter-hours at each quarter hour (in the Petite Sonnerie mode only the hours at the top of the hour and only the quarters at each quarter hour). It ranks among the functions that aficionados and collectors hoped to see implemented in a Patek Philippe wristwatch.
But it was always clear to the manufacture that this would not happen unless a strike-work power reserve of at least one entire day could be achieved. The necessary technology was not available until just recently. But now, thanks to the double barrels reserved for the strike-work mechanism, the sonneries can be activated during a period of more than 30 hours before they need to be rewound by hand.
Remarkably, this was accomplished even though the quarter-hours are sounded not on two but instead on three gongs with different tone sequences. This requires 50 percent more energy for each quarter-hour strike.
Minute repeater and alarm
The strikework double barrels also deliver the energy for the minute repeater, which on demand strikes the hours and quarter-hours as well as the minutes that have elapsed since the last quarter-hour. Connoisseurs automatically associate the clarity and volume of the sounds with Patek Philippe.
After all, it was the Genevan manufacture that orchestrated the comeback of this queen of complications 25 years ago. The alarm strikes the alarm time by reproducing the complete tone sequence of the minute repeater, with exactly the same sound quality.
This is a function never before integrated in a mechanical wristwatch. And this is not the only “striking” global premiere with which the Grandmaster Chime celebrates its debut.
The date repeater
The idea behind this patented global debut was inspired by a long-standing Patek Philippe customer who in a discussion with the manufacture’s president Thierry Stern mentioned the possibility of a date strike. Now, with the Grandmaster Chime, it becomes sonorous reality when the date repeater is triggered with a pusher.
It sounds ten-day intervals with a double high-low strike and the remaining days with a high strike: the 23rd of a month is indicated with a ding-dong ding-dong followed by ding-ding-ding. The strikework mechanism obtains the date information from the perpetual calendar to which one side of the double-face watch is dedicated, and which controls the date displays on both sides of the timepiece.
Instantaneous perpetual calendar
The dial of the calendar face is eminently legible. It features four subdials with analog displays grouped around the gold-framed four-digit year display in the middle. The month is indicated at 3 o’clock, the date and leap-year cycle at 6 o’clock and the day of the week at 9 o’clock. The time of day appears at 12 o’clock on the 24-hour and 60-minute subdial.
With the exception of the four-digit year, the calendar displays advance instantaneously and at the same time. As regards the date, this is indispensable because the date repeater must obtain precise information, especially during the minutes before and after midnight.
The perpetual instantaneous date is also displayed on the other face of the watch where it frames the moonphase display at 6 o’clock. A patent granted for the four-digit year display acknowledges the elegant mechanical solution which allows the year to be conveniently incremented forward or backward with two pushers.
Local time and second time zone
When the crown of the watch points to the right, the owner sees the dial that apart from local time also indicates the time in a second time zone together with a useful day/night indication.
The same dial features the power-reserve indicators for the movement and strikework barrels, the position of the winding crown (winding, alarm setting, handsetting), the selection of the strikework mode (Grande Sonnerie, Petite Sonnerie, or Silence) as well as a bell-shaped aperture for the alarm ON/OFF display and a small round window for the strikework isolator (disabled/enabled) display.
The round double-face case
The term grand complication is used for movements that feature several highly elaborate complications. In analogy, the expression grande construction is justified for watch cases that require the utmost in creativity from master artisans specialized in design, completion, and decoration.
More than any other watch, this applies to the case of the Grandmaster Chime. It took four years to develop. The result: the Grandmaster Chime is a round double-face watch that can be worn either way without compromise because it has two absolutely coequal dials.
The secret lies in the lugs and the ingenious reversing mechanism, which is not only remarkably easy to operate but also firmly and dependably secures the case in the selected orientation. In the Grandmaster Chime, the skills of the casemakers are ennobled by the hand of a master engraver who invests several hundred hours of work to decorate it.
He adorns the rose-gold case with relief engravings of a special anniversary laurel foliage motif and with a sharp burin chisels the inscriptions and symbols that explain the functions of the operating elements into the caseband, so that the complex timepiece can easily be operated without an instruction booklet. The laurel wreath is a symbol of triumph which since time immemorial has adorned the heads of victors and regents.
At Patek Philippe, it is reserved for the seven Grandmaster Chime timepieces that commemorate the manufacture’s 175th anniversary.
The Grandmaster Chime is delivered in a chest made of Makassar ebony and 17 further wood species. It is decorated with intarsia and gold inlays. Apart from the watch, it contains the accompanying documentation and a commemorative medal in gold that depicts milestones of the manufacture’s history as well as portraits of the company’s presidents from the Stern family since 1932.
The Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime celebrates the 175th anniversary of the manufacture in a limited edition of seven watches.
Six of them will be sold to long-standing collectors of Patek Philippe timepieces. The seventh one will find a place of honour at the Patek Philippe Museum where it can be admired by the public.
Technical details
Model: Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 5175R-001
Movement
Caliber GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM.
Manually wound mechanical movement, 20 complications, chiming mechanism with 3 gongs and 5 different time strikes (Grande and Petite Sonnerie, minute repeater, alarm with time strike, date repeater); second time zone with day/night indicator; instantaneous perpetual calendar (date on both sides, day of week, month, leap-year cycle, four-digit year display, 24-hour and minute subdial, moon phases, strikework mode display, strikework isolator display, alarm ON/OFF, crown position indicator, and power reserve indicators for the movement and the strikework
Diameter: 37 mm
Height: 10.7 mm
Number of parts: 1,366
Number of jewels: 108
Number of bridges: 32
Movement power reserve: Min. 72 hours
Strikework power reserve: 30 hours
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 25,200 semi-oscillations per hour (3.5 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Functions 3-position crown
• Pushed home: To wind the movement clockwise; to wind the strikework counter clockwise
• Pulled halfway out: To set the alarm time
• Pulled all the way out: To set the time
• Strikework mode selector at 9 o’clock
Time dial displays
Local time in hours and minutes, hours in a second time zone, alarm time, analog perpetual date, moon phases, strikework power-reserve indicator, movement power-reserve indicator, strikework mode display, crown position indicator, strikework isolator display (chimes enabled/disabled), alarm ON/OFF
Calendar dial displays
24-hour and minute subdial, four-digit year display, three calendar subdials with analog indications for the day, month, date, and leap-year cycle
Pushers
Pushers for the second time zone (“+” and “-“), alarm, minute repeater
Correction push pieces
Year display (“+” and “-“), date, month, day, moon phases
Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal
Case
Round, with patented reversing mechanism on the axis from 12 to 6 o’clock, 18K rose gold, 214 parts, sapphire crystals on both sides, protected against dust and moisture, not water-resistant Laurel wreath motif on bezel, caseband and lugs relief-engraved by hand, hand-engraved function inscriptions and symbols on caseband and pushers
Case dimensions: Diameter (10 to 4 o’clock): 47.4 mm
Thickness (crystal to crystal): 16.1 mm
Time side dial
18K gold, silvery white opaline, center with radially undulated guilloché pattern, applied 18K gold Roman numerals, Local time hour and minute hands in black nickel-plated 18K white gold, hour hand for second time zone in 18K rose goldHands for alarm time, movement and strikework power-reserve indicators, strikework mode and crown position in 18K rose gold
Calendar side dial
18K gold, silvery white opaline, center with polished gold frame for the four-digit year display
Subsidiary dials for the 24-hour display, day, month, date, and leap-year cycle with black printed scales and black nickel-plated steel hands
Strap
Alligator with large square scales, hand-stitched, dark brown, hand-patinated, fold-over clasp in 18K rose gold fully engraved by hand
Patents
1. Alarm mechanism with time strike (Mechanism that acoustically indicates a preset alarm time with hour, quarter-hour, and minute strikes using the chiming mechanism of the minute repeater)
2. Isolation of the Grande Sonnerie in the Silence mode (Mechanism that totally uncouples the Grande Sonnerie from the movement when the Silence mode is selected, eliminating friction and thus power consumption)
3. Selection of strikework operating mode (Mechanism that allows the automatic time strike to be selected or disabled with a single slide switch: Grande Sonnerie, Petite Sonnerie or Silence. Formerly, two separate switches were needed to make these settings)
4. Date repeater (Mechanism that obtains date information from the perpetual calendar and forwards it to the repeating mechanism. Manufacture president Thierry Stern is the inventor)
5. Reversible wristwatch case (Wristwatch case with rotating and latching devices in the lugs, allowing it to be turned along the axis from 12 to 6 o’clock and locked in either of 2 positions)
6. Mechanism for a four-digit year display (Mechanism that automatically synchronizes the four-digit year display with the leap-year cycle and allows convenient correction of both displays in either direction)
Innovations
The strikework differential: An innovative masterpiece of micromechanical engineering (not patented): the differential between the strikework double barrels and the two strikework mechanisms for the Grande Sonnerie (incl. minute repeater and alarm) and the date repeater.
It has a diameter of 7.2 mm and consists of 19 separate parts, one of which is an 11-part ball bearing with 7 balls with a diameter of 0.3 mm each. Despite its small size, it is robust enough to transmit the torque of the strikework barrels which exceeds 1700 gmm.
The 20 complications
1 – Grande Sonnerie
2 – Petite Sonnerie
3 – Minute repeater
4 – Strikework mode display (Silence/Grand Sonnerie/Petite Sonnerie)
5 – Alarm with time strike
6 – Date repeater
7 – Movement power-reserve indicator
8 – Strikework power-reserve indicator
9 – Strikework isolator display
10 – Second time zone
11 – Second time zone day/night indicator
12 – Instantaneous perpetual calendar
13 – Day-of-week display
14 – Month display
15 – Date display (on both dials)
16 – Leap year cycle
17 – Four-digit year display
18 – 24-hour and minute subdial
19 – Moon phase
20 – Crown position indicator (RAH)
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