Patek Philippe Ref. 5374G-001 Minute Repeater with a Perpetual Calendar

Unveiled during the Patek Philippe “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibition, this grand complication watch with minute repeater and perpetual calendar features a white-gold case with a blue grand feu enamel dial. This new model replaces the Ref. 5374P-001 in platinum with a black grand feu enamel dial.

The Ref. 5374 with a minute repeater and a perpetual calendar was introduced in 2016 in a platinum version with a black grand feu enamel dial. Now, Patek Philippe is offering a new edition in white gold with a blue grand feu enamel dial.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5374G-001 Minute Repeater with a Perpetual Calendar
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

The case shape shows the subtle and harmonious interplay of rounds and cambers. The bezel has a concave profile. The same finesse is encountered in the manually satin-finished recesses in the case flank. They contrast beautifully against the polished case segments and against the cabochons that decorate the ends of the lugs.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5374G-001 Minute Repeater with a Perpetual Calendar
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

The blue grand feu enamel dial is high-gloss finished, and features applied white-gold Breguet numerals. The displays of the perpetual calendar – day, date, month, and leap year cycle – are placed on slightly enlarged subsidiary dials, complemented with a 24-hour display. The leaf-shaped hands in white gold are filled with a luminous coating for excellent legibility. The moon-phase aperture is executed with the champlevé technique and framed in white gold.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5374G-001 Minute Repeater with a Perpetual Calendar
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

This grand complication timepiece houses the self-winding caliber R 27 Q. The minute repeater mechanism strikes on two cathedral gongs, and their extended length of nearly twice the circumference of the movement produces a full, reverberant sound.

The shiny dusk blue alligator strap is secured with a white-gold fold-over clasp. The scope of delivery includes a sapphire-crystal case back and an interchangeable solid back.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Minute Repeater with a Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 5374G-001

Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement
Caliber R 27 Q
Diameter: 28 mm
Height: 6.9 mm
Parts: 467
Bridges: 12
Jewels: 39
Power reserve: min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
Minirotor in 22K gold, unidirectional winding
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Functions
Minute repeater with “cathedral” gongs
Perpetual calendar
Day, date, month, leap year and 24-hour indication by hands
Moon phases

Dial
Blue enamel, gold applied Breguet numerals
18K gold dial plate

Case
White gold
Interchangeable full back and sapphire-crystal case back
Case is humidity and dust protected only (not water resistant)
Case diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.2 mm

Strap
Alligator leather with scare scales, hand-stitched, shiny dusk blue
Fold-over clasp

About Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 Collection

On the occasion of the “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibition in June 2021, Patek Philippe launched six exceptional wristwatches featuring artistic decorations such as manual engraving, grand feu cloisonné enamel, grand feu champlevé enamel, grand feu flinqué enamel, manual guilloching and gemsetting.

Models

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Patek Philippe Ref. 5304/301R-001 Minute Repeater with a Retrograde Perpetual Calendar

Adorned with 80 baguette diamonds, this new rose-gold version of the Patek Philippe Minute Repeater and Retrograde Perpetual Calendar watch belongs to the Geneva Maison’s “Rare Handcrafts” series. This new grand complication watch features a transparent sapphire crystal dial, allowing the wearer to admire the movement from the front side of the watch.

The first Patek Philippe grand complication with a transparent sapphire-crystal dial was launched as the Ref. 5104 in 2006; it had a platinum case with rose-gold intarsias. From 2014 to 2018, it was followed by the Ref. 5304 in rose gold with white-gold intarsias.

Now, Patek Philippe has released a new haute joaillerie version in rose gold. Its bezel, lugs, and fold-over clasp sparkle with the fire of 80 flawless Top Wesselton baguette diamonds (~6.22 ct).

Patek Philippe Ref. 5304-301R-001 Minute Repeater with a Retrograde Perpetual Calendar
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

For this timepiece, Patek Philippe developed an ingenious system for displaying the day, month, and leap year cycle with transparent sapphire-crystal disks in which the respective displays stand out in white against the black background of the small apertures beneath them. To attach the extremely thin sapphire-crystal disks to their minuscule steel arbors, it was necessary to develop an exclusive, patented assembly process.

The pierced leaf-shaped hands in black-lacquered white gold also enhance the view of the movement and its steel parts with beveled and polished edges that stand out beautifully against the rose gilt plates decorated with perlage. The flyback date display features a hand with a crescent moon tip that marks the numerals on a scale at the outermost edge of the dial. The perpetual calendar is complemented with a moon-phase display at 6 o’clock and a subsidiary seconds dial.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5304-301R-001 Minute Repeater with a Retrograde Perpetual Calendar
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

To further refine the appeal of this timepiece, Patek Philippe integrated delicate white-gold inlays with engraved leaf motifs in the case flanks and the repeater slide.

The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the magnificent views of the self-winding caliber R 27 PS QR LU movement, especially the minute repeater mechanism with two gongs or the centrifugal governor beneath the pierced Calatrava cross motif. The recessed off-center minirotor in rose gold is decorated with a leaf motif and rhodiumed sinks.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Minute Repeater with a Retrograde Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 5304/301R-001

Movement
Caliber R 27 PS QR LU
Self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter: 28 mm
Height: 7.23 mm
Parts: 517
Bridges: 12
Jewels: 41
Power reserve: min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
22K gold off-center mini-rotor
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Functions
Minute repeater with classic gongs
Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand
Day, month and leap year in apertures
Moon phases by hand
Small seconds

Dial
Transparent sapphire, date and minute markers printed in white with golden powdered dots

Case
Rose gold
Sapphire crystal case back
Humidity- and dust-protected only (not water-resistant)
Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 13.3 mm
Gem-setting: 58 baguette diamonds: ~5.25 cts. (bezel and lugs). 22 baguette diamonds: ~0.97 ct. (clasp). Total of 80 baguette diamonds: ~6.22 cts.

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny black
Diamond-set fold-over clasp

About Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 Collection

On the occasion of the “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibition in June 2021, Patek Philippe launched six exceptional wristwatches featuring artistic decorations such as manual engraving, grand feu cloisonné enamel, grand feu champlevé enamel, grand feu flinqué enamel, manual guilloching and gemsetting.

Models

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Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300G-010, New White Gold Version with Blue Opaline Dials

Flagship of the commemorative pieces presented on the occasion of the manufacture’s 175th anniversary in 2014, the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime (reference 5175) entered the regular collection in 2016.

Presented at the Basel-world 2016 exhibition, the Grandmaster Chime Reference 6300 was endowed with a white-gold case and black and white dials. Its timeless style now extends to a new white-gold version with two elegant blue opaline dials.

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300G-010, New White Gold Version with Blue Opaline Dials

The first Patek Philippe wristwatch with grande and petite sonnerie, this double-face reversible model also stands out as the most complicated Patek Philippe wristwatch in regular production.

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300G-010, New White Gold Version with Blue Opaline Dials

Its 20 complications include five chiming modes, including two patented world firsts: an acoustic alarm that strikes the preselected time and a date repeater sounding the date on demand.

The case, adorned with a hand-guilloched hobnail pattern, is notable for its patented reversing mechanism enabling the watch to be worn with either dial on view.

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300G-010, New White Gold Version with Blue Opaline Dials

The front side, with its center decorated with a hand-guilloched hobnail motif, displays the on/off indications for the acoustic functions, together with civil time, a second time zone, the moon phases, the date, and the power-reserve indicators for the movement and the strikework.

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300G-010, New White Gold Version with Blue Opaline Dials

The reverse side is devoted to the perpetual calendar, with a central four-digit year display surrounded by four subsidiary dials (analog date, leap-year cycle, day, month and 24-hour indicator).

Between the two 18K gold dials beats the caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM manually wound movement comprising 1,366 parts.

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Movement Caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM

The drive energy is stored in two double barrels, one for the movement, the other for the strikework. Isolator mechanisms make the watch easy to use and exclude all risk of damage from accidental mishandling.

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Movement Caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM

The new Ref. 6300G-010 with blue dials replaces the previous version in white gold with black and white dials.

It is accompanied by white gold cuff links with blue opaline centers, decorated with a hand-guilloched hobnail pattern.

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Cufflinks

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300G-010, New White Gold Version with Blue Opaline Dials

Movement
Caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM
Manual winding
Grande and petite sonnerie
Minute repeater with classic gongs
Strikework mode display (S G P)
Alarm with time strike
Alarm on/off indication
Date repeater
Movement and strikework power reserve indication
Strikework isolator indication
Second time zone
Second time zone day/night indication
Instantaneous perpetual calendar
Day, date (on both dials), month, leap-year cycle by hands
Four-digit year display in an aperture
Moon phases
24-hour and minute subdial
Crown position indication (R A H)
Diameter: 37 mm
Height: 10.70 mm
Number of parts: 1366
Frequency: 25,200 semi-oscillations/hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: movement: 72 hours; strikework: 30 hours

Displays
Hour hand
Second time zone hour hand
Minute hand

Subsidiary dials:
– 24-hour and minute indication
– Alarm with time strike
– Movement power reserve
– Strikework power reserve
– Strikework mode indication S G P (silence/grande sonnerie/petite sonnerie)
– Crown position indication R A H (winding [R], alarm [A], time setting [H])
– Date (on both dials)
– Day of the week
– Month
– Leap year cycle
Apertures:
– Second time zone day/night indication
– Moon phases
– Alarm on/off indication
– Strikework isolator indication
– Four-digit year display

Pushers
Minute repeater on demand
Date repeater
Alarm “on”
Adjustment of second time zone (press once = +1 hour)
Adjustment of second time zone (press once = -1 hour)

Correctors
Date correction
Day-of-week correction
Month correction
Chime selection (S G P)
Year correction (press once = +1 year)
Year correction (press once = -1 year)
Moon-phase correction

Three-position crown:
1. Winding the movement (clockwise)
Winding the strikework (counterclockwise)
2. Alarm time setting and alarm “off”
3. Setting the time

Dials
Time side: blue opaline, gold applied Breguet numerals, hand-guilloched hobnail center
Calendar side: blue opaline
18K solid gold dial plates
White gold pear-shaped hands

Case
White gold
Reversible case adorned with handguilloched hobnail pattern
Diameter: 47.7 mm
Height: 16.07 mm
Humidity- and dust-protected only (not water-resistant)

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny navy blue
Fold-over clasp

Cuff Links
Blue opaline center adorned with hand guilloched hobnail pattern
White gold
Delivered with the watch

Previous Model

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Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar

Unveiled at SIHH 2019 in Geneva, the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar is a one-of-a-kind model created by the Les Cabinotiers department of Vacheron Constantin

In the 18th century, the most experienced Geneva watchmakers exercised their talent in light-filled workshops called ‘cabinets’, located on the top floor of the city’s buildings. Crafting extraordinary complicated bespoke watches, these alchemists of time came to be known as ‘cabinotiers’. Accomplished masters of their art, they cultivated a blend of technical and manual skills backed by vast scientific knowledge and curiosity for new ideas, nurtured by the philosophy of the Age of Enlightenment.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar

In response to the highest technical, aesthetic and artistic challenges, the one-of-a-kind Vacheron Constantin models now crafted in its Les Cabinotiers department, heir to this prestigious past, are a delight to the most demanding connoisseurs of Haute Horlogerie. The new Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar, driven by an unprecedented calibre, is a further illustration of this exclusive approach.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar

The one-of-a-kind Les Cabinotiers minute repeater perpetual calendar is equipped with a revisited movement: Calibre 1731 QP, combining minute repeater and perpetual calendar functions at the heart of a delightfully slender 42 mm-diameter gold case.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar watch rose gold

The challenge for the in-house watchmakers lays in pairing two of the most sophisticated horological complications within an ultra-thin movement measuring just 5.70 mm thick, while ensuring precision, reliability and user friendliness. Among the technical feats accompanying the origins of this watch, the Maison’s Les Cabinotiers department developed a perfectly silent strike governor serving to control the cadence of the hammers in striking the gongs.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar watch movement

No less than 438 components, some of them no thicker than a hair’s breadth, compose this sophisticated horological ‘alchemy’ within a mechanical manual-winding movement. Beating at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) and endowed with a 65-hour power reserve, it drives the full set of hours, minutes, day, date, month, leap-year indication, moon phase and minute repeater functions.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar watch movement

Despite the complexity of this watch, Vacheron Constantin was determined to make it a model cultivating the elegance, discretion and other aesthetic values that have become its signature. The 42 mm-diameter case in white or pink gold features extremely pure lines. Only the minute repeater slide on the left-hand side of the case expresses the complexity of this model and testifies to its ability to set an audible cadence for time.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar

The gleam of the precious polished metal beautifully frames the deep colour of the midnight blue or brown dial, depending on the version. The day, date and month indications, appearing in the upper part of the dial, are displayed in an extremely legible manner, and thereby leave plenty of space for the gold Moon to pursue its poetic dance amid the stars, against a beautifully understated backdrop.

This arrangement of the various dial indications ensures a pleasingly balanced and elegant watch face, while the blue and brown colour lends a dynamic and modern touch.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar

Technical details

Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar
Reference 6610C/000G-B511

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar watch with blue dial
6610C/000G-B511, Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar

Movement
CALIBRE 1731 QP
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
32.80 mm diameter, 5.70 mm thick
Approximately 65 hours of power reserve
3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
438 components
36 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certifed timepiece

Indications
Hours, minutes
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month, leap year)
Moon phases
Minute Repeater

Case
18K white gold
42 mm diameter, 10.44 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback

Dial
Blue opaline dial
18K white gold hour-markers
Moon in 18K white gold

Strap
Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Buckle
18K white gold folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Box
Les Cabinotiers winding-box made of Makassar ebony wood, interior in Nabuka

Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen

Edition
One-of-a-kind timepiece
“Les Cabinotiers”, “Pièce unique”, “AC” hallmark engraved on caseback

Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar
Reference 6610C/000R-B510

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar watch with brown dial
6610C/000R-B510, Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar

Movement
CALIBRE 1731 QP
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
32.8 mm diameter, 5.70 mm thick
Approximately 65 hours of power reserve
3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
438 components
36 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours, minutes
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month, leap year)
Moon phases
Minute Repeater

Case
18K 5N pink gold
42 mm diameter, 10.44 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback

Dial
Brown opaline dial
18K 5N pink gold hour-markers
Moon in 18K 5N pink gold

Strap
Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Buckle
18K 5N pink gold folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Box
Les Cabinotiers winding-box made of Makassar ebony wood, interior in Nabuka

Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen

Edition
One-of-a-kind timepiece
“Les Cabinotiers”, “Pièce unique”, “AC” hallmark engraved on caseback

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Collection – Grande Complication “Ornementale” & Grande Complication “Crocodile”

In January 2018 at SIHH haute-horlogerie exhibition, Vacheron Constantin unveiled two one-of-a-kind grand complication timepieces – “Ornementale” and “Crocodile” – from their prestigious Les Cabinotiers Collection of highly exclusive mechanical timepieces that house multiple horological complications allied with artistic crafts.

A feat of miniaturisation and handcrafted excellence epitomised in two manual-winding calibres respectively driving 16 and 15 complications displayed between front and back dials, framed by a hand-chased gold case.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Crocodile »
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Crocodile »

The twin dials of the Grande Complication “Ornementale” and Grande Complication “Crocodile” are adorned with deep shades of aubergine and slate grey, while their cases are respectively engraved with ornamental “Victorian” and crocodile patterns. An elegant alligator leather strap secured by a pin buckle likewise engraved according to the given theme sets the finishing touch to these prestigious watches, presented in a luxurious Makassar ebony wood winder box.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Ornementale »
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Ornementale »

The manual-winding calibres of these two one-of-a-kind models respectively drive 16 and 15 complications, mostly astronomical. In addition to the hours and minutes, the first (front) dial displays 11 other functions: minute repeater, equation of time, tourbillon, perpetual calendar indicating the date, day of the week, month and leap years, power reserve, as well as sunrise and sunset times.

Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication “Ornementale” also bears an indicator of striking mechanism torque (the power reserve of the minute repeater). The second (back) dial features an array of fascinating astronomical complications: sky chart, equinox and solstice, sidereal hours and minutes, age and phases of the moon, as well as seasons and zodiac signs.

These two new creations are inspired by the famous Tour de l’Île by Vacheron Constantin, paying tribute to 250 years of watchmaking expertise cultivated by the Geneva-based Manufacture.

Launched in 2005, the Tour de l’Île is one of the world’s most complicated wristwatches ever manufactured. The two new masterpieces once again showcase Vacheron Constantin’s expertise in combining a wealth of complications within a small space and magnifying them by remarkable Artistic Crafts.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Crocodile »
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Crocodile »

On the front, the various major complications are displayed with exemplary clarity and distinction. The minute repeater striking the hours, quarters and minutes on demand is equipped with an ingenious centripetal flywheel strike governor. Perfectly silent and preventing undue wear of the mechanism, it regulates the duration of the musical sequence in order to ensure melodious and distinctly audible notes.

The tourbillon is equipped with a carriage shaped like the Maltese cross emblem of the Maison. The tourbillon rotates at a rate of one complete turn per minute, making light of gravity in order to improve the movement’s precision and also serving as a small seconds display. Meanwhile, the perpetual calendar is capable of keeping up with the complexities of the Gregorian calendar without any need for human intervention other than a date change every 400 years.

On the back of the watch, the second dial is also graced with a wealth of functions, arranged on two levels. The central disc bears a sky chart as well as the four cardinal points. Two North and South openings reveal the month of the year and sidereal hours, corresponding to “true” time.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Ornementale »
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Ornementale »

A small hand running around the rim shows the age of the moon, meaning the number of days since the last full moon; while a long slender hand featuring a counterweight adorned with a tiny sun indicates the date as well as the zodiac sign, the season and the corresponding equinox or solstice.

Incorporating the equation of time mechanism into a watch for measuring the difference in minutes between solar time and standard legal time, requires considerable expertise. Setting the finishing touch to this first dial, a “customised complication” displays sunset and sunrise times, adjustable according to the reference city chosen by the client.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Crocodile »
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Crocodile »

Among the most complex movements ever made by Vacheron Constantin, these two calibres – comprising 839 parts for the Grande Complication “Ornementale” and 836 for the Grande Complication “Crocodile” – endowed with a 58-hour power reserve measure just 33.90 mm in diameter and 12.15 thick.

Entirely developed and manufactured in-house, these calibres are housed in a 47 mm-diameter gold case whose characteristics are specifically designed to ensure the best possible sound quality of the minute repeater. In addition, each of the components, finely adjusted and harmonised to guarantee optimal performance, is distinguished by meticulous hand-crafted finishing.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Ornementale »

This exceptional timepiece displays its multiple functions on two gold dials crafted in an elegant aubergine purple shade with a sunray satin-finish. The front dial is graced with applied hour-markers, Dauphine-type hands and finely snailed counters, suffused with the radiance of the finely crafted white gold case.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Ornementale »

The bezel, caseband, lugs and pin buckle are adorned with an ornamental pattern inspired by 19th century Victorian architecture.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Ornementale » watch

Reflecting the traditional skills cultivated by the Maison, this miniature sculpture represents a feat of dexterity and meticulous care, combining pounced ornament and bas-relief techniques with various types of fine line engraving.

Technical details

Model: Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Ornementale
Reference 80175/000G-B280 Hallmark of Geneva

Movement
Caliber Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
33.9 mm (14’’’ ¾) diameter
12.15 mm thick
Approximately 58 hours of power reserve
2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
839 components
42 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes
Small second at 6 o’clock on tourbillon carriage
16 complications:
1. Minute repeater
2. Tourbillon
3-7 Perpetual calendar (date, day of the week, month, leap year)
8. Power reserve
9. Equation of time
10. Sunrise time
11. Sunset time
12. Sky chart
13. Age and phases of the moon
14. Sidereal hours and minutes
15. Seasons, zodiac signs
16. Striking mechanism torque

Setting
Hours and minutes adjustment: winding crown (2 positions)
Moon phase adjustment: correction push-piece on the case
Perpetual calendar adjustment: two correction push-pieces on the case
Sky chart adjustment: with crown and screwed-down push-piece

Case
18K white gold with bezel, case band, and back-side hand-engraved with an ornamental “Victorian” pattern
47 mm diameter, 19.10 mm thick

Dials (face & back side) 
18K white gold, eggplant sunray satin-finished
18K white gold applied hour-markers
18K white gold hands

Strap
Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Buckle: 18K white gold open buckle with ornamental “Victorian” pattern; Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Box
Prestige winder box made of Makassar ebony wood

Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen, a magnifying glass

Unique timepiece
«Les Cabinotiers», « Pièce unique », « AC» hallmark engraved on caseback

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Crocodile »

This timepiece radiates charisma in a case adorned with two crocodiles and scales in varying sizes. Portraying the reptiles in relief, sculpted from a single block of metal using the pounced ornament technique and various types of fine line engraving (matt, sandblasted, brushed and polished) involves carefully controlled operations requiring virtuoso skill.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Crocodile » watch

The finesse of the work on the scales dotted across the bezel, lugs and caseback instil vibrant life, light and contrasts into this miniature masterpiece, born under the expert touch of an experienced master engraver.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication « Crocodile » watch

This pink gold workmanship makes a perfect match with the understated elegance of the two slate-coloured dials on the front and back of the watch. This eminently legible and refined display is enhanced on the front with pink gold applied hour-markers, leaf-shaped hands and finely snailed counters.

Engraved with the inscriptions “Pièce Unique”, “Les Cabinotiers”, and bearing the “AC” (Atelier Cabinotiers) hallmark engraved on the caseback, Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication “Ornementale” et “Crocodile” watches are fitted with a Mississippiensis alligator strap secured by a hand-engraved buckle and presented in an opulent Makassar ebony wood winder box, complete with a corrector pen and a magnifying glass.

Technical details

Model: Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Crocodile
Reference 9700C/001R-B187
Hallmark of Geneva

Movement
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
33.9 mm (14’’’ ¾) diameter
12.15 mm thick
Approximately 58 hours of power reserve
2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
836 components
42 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes
Small second at 6 o’clock on tourbillon carriage
15 complications:
1. Minute repeater
2. Tourbillon
3-7. Perpetual calendar (date, day of the week, month, leap year)
8. Power reserve
9. Equation of time
10. Sunrise time
11. Sunset time
12. Sky chart
13. Age and phases of the moon
14. Sidereal hours and minutes
15. Seasons, zodiac signs

Setting
Hours and minutes adjustment: winding crown (2 positions)
Moon phase adjustment: correction push-piece on the case
Perpetual calendar adjustment: two correction push-pieces on the case
Sky chart adjustment: with crown and screwed-down push-piece

Case
18K 5N pink gold with crocodile pattern hand engraved on the case band
47 mm diameter, 19.10 mm thick

Dials (face & back side)
18K 5N pink gold, Slate-colored, opaline
18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers
18K 5N pink gold hands

Strap
Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Buckle: 18K 5N pink gold open buckle with “crocodile pattern”; Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Box
Prestige winder box made of Makassar ebony wood

Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen, a magnifying glass

Unique timepiece
«Les Cabinotiers», « Pièce unique », « AC» hallmark engraved on caseback

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300

With a very fresh and distinctive appearance, the new, highly complex Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300 has taken over the top position in Patek Philippe’s ranking of the most complicated regularly produced wristwatches.

The 20 complications of the double-face watch include five chiming functions, two of which are patented world debuts. It comes in a white-gold case with a patented reversing mechanism that allows the timepiece to be worn with either dial facing up.

The new Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300 should not be confused with the commemorative Ref. 5175 of the same name. With its breathtakingly hand-engraved rose-gold case, the latter is a limited, seven watch edition.

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300G-001

The new Grandmaster Chime features an inimitably new white-gold case with a hand guilloched hobnail pattern and now belongs to Patek Philippe’s regular collection. However, the process of crafting it is so time-consuming that the Ref. 6300 will also remain an exclusive rarity.

It strikes the time on three gongs: either automatically every quarter-hour with the Grande or Petite Sonnerie, accurate to the minute with the minute repeater, as an alarm that strikes the preset alarm time, or – for greater time intervals – with the date repeater that acoustically indicates the date on demand.

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300G-001 white gold

The modes of these sonorous functions are displayed on the front dial, which also indicates the time, a second time zone, the moon phases, the date, and the power-reserve of the movement and strikework spring barrels.

The opposite side is dedicated to the perpetual calendar. Its center is a four digit year display surrounded by four subsidiary dials: the analog date with the leap year cycle at 6 o’clock, the day of the week at 9 o’clock, the month at 3 o’clock, and the 24-hour time indication at 12 o’clock.

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in White Gold Ref. 6300G-001

The most complicated wristwatch movement ever made by Patek Philippe – the manually wound caliber GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM, composed of 1366 parts – ticks between the two solid-gold dials. Its energy is stored in two double spring barrels. One keeps the movement running for 72 hours. The other one powers the strikework for 30 hours.

Patek Philippe Caliber GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM

It is endowed with numerous supplementary mechanisms that enhance user-friendliness and virtually prevent potentially damaging inadvertent manipulations. The pushers and correctors are labeled with delicate engravings and the dial displays the individual functional modes (time strike mode, alarm ON/OFF, crown position, etc.).

Patek Philippe Caliber GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM

The new Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300 comes in an 18K white-gold case with a manually guilloched hobnail motif and features a reversing mechanism integrated between the strap lugs.

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300G-001

The black time-side dial with white printed scale elements as well as white-gold hands and appliques is also decorated with a hobnail pattern.

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300G-001

The dial on the opposite side, all in white, has black scales and hands. The watch is worn on a black alligator strap with a white-gold fold-over clasp.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300G-001

Movement
Caliber GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM
Manually wound mechanical movement, 20 complications, chiming mechanism with 3 gongs and 5 different time strikes (Grande and Petite Sonnerie, minute repeater, alarm with time strike, date repeater); second time zone with day/night indicator; instantaneous perpetual calendar (date on both sides, day of week, month, leap-year cycle, four-digit year display, 24-hour and minute subdial, moon phases, strikework mode display, strikework isolator display, alarm ON/OFF, crown position indicator, and power reserve indicators for the movement and the strikework

Diameter: 37 mm
Height: 10.7 mm
Number of parts: 1366
Number of jewels: 108
Number of bridges: 32
Movement power reserve: Min. 72 hours
Strikework power reserve: 30 hours
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 25,200 semi-oscillations per hour (3.5 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®

Functions
3-position crown
• Pushed home To wind the movement clockwise; to wind the strikework counter clockwise
• Pulled halfway out: To set the alarm time
• Pulled all the way out: To set the time
• Strikework mode selector at 9 o’clock

Time dial displays
Local time in hours and minutes, hours in a second time zone, alarm time, analog perpetual date, moon phases, strikework power-reserve indicator, movement power-reserve indicator, strikework mode display, crown position indicator, strikework isolator display (chimes enabled/disabled), alarm ON/OFF

Calendar dial displays
24-hour and minute subdial, four-digit year display, three calendar subdials with analog indications for the day, month, date, and leap-year cycle

Pushers
Pushers for the second time zone (“+” and “-“), alarm, minute repeater

Correction push pieces
Year display (“+” and “-“), date, month, day, moon phases

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
Round, with patented reversing mechanism on the axis from 12 to 6 o’clock, 18K white gold, 214 parts, sapphire crystals on both sides, protected against dust and moisture, not water-resistant
Case band with hand-guilloched hobnail pattern
Manually engraved function lettering and symbols on the case band and pushers
Diameter (10 to 4 o’clock): 47.4 mm
Thickness (crystal to crystal): 16.1 mm

Time side dial
18K gold, ebony black opaline, center with hand-guilloched hobnail pattern, applied Breguet numerals in 18K white gold
Local time hour and minute hands in 18K white gold, hour hand for second time zone in 18K white gold
Hands for alarm time, movement and strikework power-reserve indicators, strikework mode and crown position in 18K white gold

Calendar side dial
18K gold, white opaline, center with polished gold frame for the four digit year display
Subsidiary dials for the 24-hour display, day, month, date, and leap year cycle with black printed scales and black nickel-plated steel hands

Strap
Alligator leather with large square scales, shiny black, hand-stitched white contrast seams, fold-over clasp in 18K white gold

The 20 Complications of Ref. 6300

  1. Grande Sonnerie
  2. Petite Sonnerie
  3. Minute repeater
  4. Strikework mode display (Silence/Grand Sonnerie/Petite Sonnerie)
  5. Alarm with time strike
  6. Date repeater
  7. Movement power-reserve indicator
  8. Strikework power-reserve indicator
  9. Strikework isolator display
  10. Second time zone
  11. Second time zone day/night indicator
  12. Instantaneous perpetual calendar
  13. Day-of-week display
  14. Month display
  15. Date display (on both dials)
  16. Leap year cycle
  17. Four-digit year display
  18. 24-hour and minute subdial
  19. Moon phase
  20. Crown position indicator (RAH)

Patek Philippe Grand Complication Ref. 5016A-010 for Only Watch 2015, Unique Piece

One of the great classics of the Patek Philippe wrist Grand Complications between 1993 and 2011, Reference 5016 unites in its Calatrava-style case three of the complications most highly prized by devotees of exceptional watches: the tourbillon, the minute repeater and the perpetual calendar with moon-phase display.

As an additional refinement, the perpetual calendar is endowed with a retrograde date hand, which flies back to the 1stof the month after having reached the 28th, 29th, 30th or 31st under the action of an ingenious mechanism controlled by a spiral-coiled spring.

Patek Philippe Grand Complication Ref. 5016A-010 for Only Watch 2015, Unique Piece

This graceful interplay of sophisticated functions is orchestrated by a movement comprising 506 parts, all painstakingly finished by hand with the dedication to excellence for which the manufacture is known.

Reference 5016A-010 was created specially for Only Watch 2015 and is the first and only version of this watch to be produced in steel.

The sheen of this metal, rarely seen in a Patek Philippe Grand Complication, compliments a blue enameled dial that perpetuates the tradition of the rare handcrafts.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Grand Complication Ref. 5016A-010 for Only Watch 2015, Unique Piece

Movement
Caliber R TO 27 PS QR Manual winding

Functions
Minute repeater
Tourbillon
Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand
Day, month and leap year in apertures
Moon phases
Seconds subdial at 6o’clock

Dial
Blue enameled dial with gold applied Breguet numerals
18K gold dial plate

Case
Steel Case
Interchangeable full back and sapphire-crystal case back
Case is humidity and dust protected only (not water resistant)
Case diameter: 36.8 mm

Strap
Alligator leather strap, shiny navy blue, hand-stitched
Fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 5175, 175th Anniversary Commemorative Edition

This year, prestigious Swiss watch manufacture Patek Philippe is celebrating its 175th anniversary and to mark this historic occasion the Geneva based manufacture unveils limited edition commemorative timepieces displaying the rich traditions of the revered brand.

One of the most remarkable models among them is Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 5175, so far most complicated wristwatch of the eminent family-owned watchmaking companies and decidedly one of the world’s most elaborate wristwatches.

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 5175,  175th Anniversary Commemorative Edition

This grand complication timepiece boasts twenty complications and two of which have been added to the annals of watchmaking for the first time. Moreover, the Grandmaster Chime is the first double-face wristwatch presented by Patek Philippe that can be worn with either dial facing up: the one that focuses on the time and the sonnerie, the other dedicated to the full instantaneous perpetual calendar.

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 5175,  175th Anniversary Commemorative Edition

Changing the face is very simple thanks to the ingenious reversing mechanism in the lugs. It is amazingly easy to operate and firmly secures the case in the selected position. Incidentally, the information for which a watch is most frequently consulted – the current time and the date – is displayed on both dials.

The ultimate in user-friendliness and safety is assured with intelligent mechanisms that prevent potentially damaging manipulations and thus reliably protect the highly complex movement with its intricate cosmos of tiny parts.

Patek Philippe’s Grandmaster Chime is a wrist-format timekeeping instrument of absolutely unprecedented complexity and ingenuity that establishes new benchmarks in terms of technical and aesthetic elegance.

Its double-face case with a diameter of 47 mm, it accommodates four spring barrels and no fewer than 20 complications, including coveted functions such as a Grande and Petite Sonnerie, a minute repeater, an instantaneous perpetual calendar with a four-digit year display, a second time zone, and two patented global debuts in the domain of chiming watches: an acoustic alarm that strikes the alarm time and a date repeater that sounds the date on demand. Four additional patents emphasize the innovative thrust behind this watch.

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 5175,  175th Anniversary Commemorative Edition

The Grandmaster Chime is a striking example of the “intelligent watch” as envisioned by Patek Philippe’s philosophy. To protect complicated timepieces against damage caused by inadvertent manipulations, the manfacture’s engineers devised clever “isolators” that interrupt the flow of power between individual mechanisms or block certain functions while others are active.

The engraved inscriptions and symbols on the case and the pushers are further hallmarks of convenience that make the Grandmaster Chime a self-explanatory grand complication watch.

The effort invested by Patek Philippe in this unique anniversary timepiece is remarkable. More than 100,000 hours were logged for development, production, and assembly, of which 60,000 hours for the components of the movement.

Each caliber consists of 1,366 parts and each case of 214 separate parts, bringing the total number of components for each Grandmaster Chime to 1,580. Thus, it took 11,060 meticulously hand-finished parts to assemble the seven limited-edition exemplars of Patek Philippe’s commemorative Grandmaster Chime masterpiece.

Grande and Petite Sonnerie

This complication automatically sounds the hours and quarter-hours at each quarter hour (in the Petite Sonnerie mode only the hours at the top of the hour and only the quarters at each quarter hour). It ranks among the functions that aficionados and collectors hoped to see implemented in a Patek Philippe wristwatch.

But it was always clear to the manufacture that this would not happen unless a strike-work power reserve of at least one entire day could be achieved. The necessary technology was not available until just recently. But now, thanks to the double barrels reserved for the strike-work mechanism, the sonneries can be activated during a period of more than 30 hours before they need to be rewound by hand.

Remarkably, this was accomplished even though the quarter-hours are sounded not on two but instead on three gongs with different tone sequences. This requires 50 percent more energy for each quarter-hour strike.

Minute repeater and alarm

The strikework double barrels also deliver the energy for the minute repeater, which on demand strikes the hours and quarter-hours as well as the minutes that have elapsed since the last quarter-hour. Connoisseurs automatically associate the clarity and volume of the sounds with Patek Philippe.

After all, it was the Genevan manufacture that orchestrated the comeback of this queen of complications 25 years ago. The alarm strikes the alarm time by reproducing the complete tone sequence of the minute repeater, with exactly the same sound quality.

This is a function never before integrated in a mechanical wristwatch. And this is not the only “striking” global premiere with which the Grandmaster Chime celebrates its debut.

The date repeater

The idea behind this patented global debut was inspired by a long-standing Patek Philippe customer who in a discussion with the manufacture’s president Thierry Stern mentioned the possibility of a date strike. Now, with the Grandmaster Chime, it becomes sonorous reality when the date repeater is triggered with a pusher.

It sounds ten-day intervals with a double high-low strike and the remaining days with a high strike: the 23rd of a month is indicated with a ding-dong ding-dong followed by ding-ding-ding. The strikework mechanism obtains the date information from the perpetual calendar to which one side of the double-face watch is dedicated, and which controls the date displays on both sides of the timepiece.

Instantaneous perpetual calendar

The dial of the calendar face is eminently legible. It features four subdials with analog displays grouped around the gold-framed four-digit year display in the middle. The month is indicated at 3 o’clock, the date and leap-year cycle at 6 o’clock and the day of the week at 9 o’clock. The time of day appears at 12 o’clock on the 24-hour and 60-minute subdial.

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 5175,  175th Anniversary Commemorative Edition

With the exception of the four-digit year, the calendar displays advance instantaneously and at the same time. As regards the date, this is indispensable because the date repeater must obtain precise information, especially during the minutes before and after midnight.

The perpetual instantaneous date is also displayed on the other face of the watch where it frames the moonphase display at 6 o’clock. A patent granted for the four-digit year display acknowledges the elegant mechanical solution which allows the year to be conveniently incremented forward or backward with two pushers.

Local time and second time zone

When the crown of the watch points to the right, the owner sees the dial that apart from local time also indicates the time in a second time zone together with a useful day/night indication.

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 5175,  175th Anniversary Commemorative Edition

The same dial features the power-reserve indicators for the movement and strikework barrels, the position of the winding crown (winding, alarm setting, handsetting), the selection of the strikework mode (Grande Sonnerie, Petite Sonnerie, or Silence) as well as a bell-shaped aperture for the alarm ON/OFF display and a small round window for the strikework isolator (disabled/enabled) display.

The round double-face case

The term grand complication is used for movements that feature several highly elaborate complications. In analogy, the expression grande construction is justified for watch cases that require the utmost in creativity from master artisans specialized in design, completion, and decoration.

More than any other watch, this applies to the case of the Grandmaster Chime. It took four years to develop. The result: the Grandmaster Chime is a round double-face watch that can be worn either way without compromise because it has two absolutely coequal dials.

The secret lies in the lugs and the ingenious reversing mechanism, which is not only remarkably easy to operate but also firmly and dependably secures the case in the selected orientation. In the Grandmaster Chime, the skills of the casemakers are ennobled by the hand of a master engraver who invests several hundred hours of work to decorate it.

He adorns the rose-gold case with relief engravings of a special anniversary laurel foliage motif and with a sharp burin chisels the inscriptions and symbols that explain the functions of the operating elements into the caseband, so that the complex timepiece can easily be operated without an instruction booklet. The laurel wreath is a symbol of triumph which since time immemorial has adorned the heads of victors and regents.

At Patek Philippe, it is reserved for the seven Grandmaster Chime timepieces that commemorate the manufacture’s 175th anniversary.

The Grandmaster Chime is delivered in a chest made of Makassar ebony and 17 further wood species. It is decorated with intarsia and gold inlays. Apart from the watch, it contains the accompanying documentation and a commemorative medal in gold that depicts milestones of the manufacture’s history as well as portraits of the company’s presidents from the Stern family since 1932.

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 5175,  175th Anniversary Commemorative Edition

The Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime celebrates the 175th anniversary of the manufacture in a limited edition of seven watches.

Six of them will be sold to long-standing collectors of Patek Philippe timepieces. The seventh one will find a place of honour at the Patek Philippe Museum where it can be admired by the public.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 5175R-001

Movement 
Caliber GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM.
Manually wound mechanical movement, 20 complications, chiming mechanism with 3 gongs and 5 different time strikes (Grande and Petite Sonnerie, minute repeater, alarm with time strike, date repeater); second time zone with day/night indicator; instantaneous perpetual calendar (date on both sides, day of week, month, leap-year cycle, four-digit year display, 24-hour and minute subdial, moon phases, strikework mode display, strikework isolator display, alarm ON/OFF, crown position indicator, and power reserve indicators for the movement and the strikework
Diameter: 37 mm
Height: 10.7 mm
Number of parts: 1,366
Number of jewels:  108
Number of bridges: 32
Movement power reserve:  Min. 72 hours
Strikework power reserve: 30 hours
Balance:  Gyromax®
Frequency:  25,200 semi-oscillations per hour (3.5 Hz)
Balance spring:  Spiromax®

Functions
3-position crown
• Pushed home: To wind the movement clockwise; to wind the strikework counter clockwise
• Pulled halfway out: To set the alarm time
• Pulled all the way out: To set the time
• Strikework mode selector at 9 o’clock

Time dial displays
Local time in hours and minutes, hours in a second time zone, alarm time, analog perpetual date, moon phases, strikework power-reserve indicator, movement power-reserve indicator, strikework mode display, crown position indicator, strikework isolator display (chimes enabled/disabled), alarm ON/OFF

Calendar dial displays
24-hour and minute subdial, four-digit year display, three calendar subdials with analog indications for the day, month, date, and leap-year cycle

Pushers
Pushers for the second time zone (“+” and “-“), alarm, minute repeater

Correction push pieces
Year display (“+” and “-“), date, month, day, moon phases

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
Round, with patented reversing mechanism on the axis from 12 to 6 o’clock, 18K rose gold, 214 parts, sapphire crystals on both sides, protected against dust and moisture, not water-resistant Laurel wreath motif on bezel, caseband and lugs relief-engraved by hand, hand-engraved function inscriptions and symbols on  caseband and pushers
Case dimensions:  Diameter (10 to 4 o’clock): 47.4 mm
Thickness (crystal to crystal): 16.1 mm

Time side dial
18K gold, silvery white opaline, center with radially undulated guilloché pattern, applied 18K gold Roman numerals, Local time hour and minute hands in black nickel-plated 18K white gold, hour hand for second time zone in 18K rose goldHands for alarm time, movement and strikework power-reserve indicators, strikework mode and crown position in 18K rose gold

Calendar side dial
18K gold, silvery white opaline, center with polished gold frame for the four-digit year display
Subsidiary dials for the 24-hour display, day, month, date, and leap-year cycle with black printed scales and black nickel-plated steel hands

Strap
Alligator with large square scales, hand-stitched, dark brown, hand-patinated, fold-over clasp in 18K rose gold fully engraved by hand

Patents

1. Alarm mechanism with time strike (Mechanism that acoustically indicates a preset alarm time with hour, quarter-hour, and minute strikes using the chiming mechanism of the minute repeater)

2. Isolation of the Grande Sonnerie in the Silence mode
(Mechanism that totally uncouples the Grande Sonnerie from the movement when the Silence mode is selected, eliminating friction and thus power consumption)

3. Selection of strikework operating mode (Mechanism that allows the automatic time strike to be selected or disabled with a single slide switch: Grande Sonnerie, Petite Sonnerie or Silence. Formerly, two separate switches were needed to make these settings)

4. Date repeater (Mechanism that obtains date information from the perpetual calendar and forwards it to the repeating mechanism. Manufacture president Thierry Stern is the inventor)

5. Reversible wristwatch case (Wristwatch case with rotating and latching devices in the lugs, allowing it to be turned along the axis from 12 to 6 o’clock and locked in either of 2 positions)

6. Mechanism for a four-digit year display
(Mechanism that automatically synchronizes the four-digit year display with the leap-year cycle and allows convenient correction of both displays in either direction)

Innovations

The strikework differential: An innovative masterpiece of micromechanical engineering (not patented): the differential between the strikework double barrels and the two strikework mechanisms for the Grande Sonnerie (incl. minute repeater and alarm) and the date repeater.

It has a diameter of 7.2 mm and consists of 19 separate parts, one of which is an 11-part ball bearing with 7 balls with a diameter of 0.3 mm each. Despite its small size, it is robust enough to transmit the torque of the strikework barrels which exceeds 1700 gmm.

The 20 complications

1 – Grande Sonnerie
2 – Petite Sonnerie
3 – Minute repeater
4 – Strikework mode display (Silence/Grand Sonnerie/Petite Sonnerie)
5 – Alarm with time strike
6 – Date repeater
7 – Movement power-reserve indicator
8 – Strikework power-reserve indicator
9 – Strikework isolator display
10 – Second time zone
11 – Second time zone day/night indicator
12 – Instantaneous perpetual calendar
13 – Day-of-week display
14 – Month display
15 – Date display (on both dials)
16 – Leap year cycle
17 – Four-digit year display
18 – 24-hour and minute subdial
19 – Moon phase
20 – Crown position indicator (RAH)

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication 44mm

AUDEMARS PIGUET enhances the the ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE line by welcoming its first-ever exceptional Grande Complication movement.

The mechanical selfwinding heart of the Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication comprises three advanced functions, forming what is considered in the industry as the basis of a Grande Complication movement.

Its traditional mechanical selfwinding movement combines minute repeater, split-second chronograph and perpetual calendar functions. In concrete terms, in addition to showing legal or civil time, this  44 mm-diameter masculine watch is thus also equipped with a minute repeater mechanism, a rare complication enabling it to sound the hours, quarters and minutes on demand.

Moreover, it houses a perpetual calendar complication which, as its name implies, ensures a perpetual display of the calendar information as well as lunar cycles. Last but not least, it affords the possibility of performing timing operations and reading off intermediate or “split” times thanks to the split-second complication which has become an authentic Audemars Piguet signature in all the Grande Complication models that the Manufacture has produced since 1882.

This classic work of art, expressed in highly contemporary terms by Audemars Piguet, establishes itself as a synthesis of Haute Horlogerie. It is a material embodiment of the talent and the expertise of the finest watchmaking artisans exercising their craft in the Grandes Complications department of the Manufacture.

Epitomising incredible mastery of the watchmaking art, the 648 parts of the mechanical selfwinding Calibre 2885 are finished with meticulous care. The purpose of contemporary finishes such as sandblasting is to magnify the more traditional treatments such as bevelling and straight-graining.

To reveal the exceptional nature of the open-working or “skeletonising” performed by the watchmakers, the parts composing this beating heart are rendered partially visible by the use of a transparent sapphire crystal dial and the fitting of a display back. The latter notably reveals the solid gold oscillating weight featuring an anthracite coating which accentuates the overall contemporary touch that the watchmakers have decided to give this model.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication 44mm

Endowing such a purely traditional movement with a firmly future-oriented approach most definitely implies that in order to break the rules, you must first master them. The movement in fact represents a material expression of this abstract principle.

However, it is precisely the fact of adapting this Grande Complication movement to today’s world that lends this timepiece its truly iconic dimension. This is doubtless because, above and beyond mere words, this contemporary horological opus in titanium and ceramics, issued in a three-piece limited series, remains a creation individually executed by a single artisan who will devote more than 820 hours of painstaking craftsmanship to this task.

Finishes such as bevelling, recesses, sinks and sandblasting call for countless hours of fine craftsmanship and incredible dexterity, in a process amounting to around one-third of the price of the movement. Among the techniques used to make this movement visually appealing, bevelling is undoubtedly the most highly appreciated manual technique, as well as that which requires the greatest accuracy.

This exercise, which calls for years of experience, consists in using a file to cut down the edges of components and in polishing them with a slightly curved burnisher, so as to highlight the rim by enabling the light to play across the bevels.

These finishes serve historically functional purpose, by protecting the movement against dust and humidity, and thus any risk of oxidation. Nonetheless, these finishes and decorations will only effectively magnify the beauty of the mechanism if the technique involved in this art is fully mastered.

It is indeed a form of art fully mastered by Audemars Piguet and continually applied to our products. Functionality meets aesthetics in these infinitely delicate operations. This aesthetic treatment of the mechanism powerfully reveals this meticulous workmanship, executed to perfection at Audemars Piguet. Each part has been treated with infinite care.

Some components, such as the hammers of the minute repeater striking mechanism which are visible through the case-back, combine two finishes entailing highly complex execution : a mirror polish that is so fine that artisans even joke among themselves that “a glance is enough to scratch it” ; along with a bevelling featuring interior and external angles embodying the ultimate expression of the artist’s mastery.

These specific angles, which can be easily pinpointed in the mechanism, may be viewed as the secret signature of the artisan, and provide undeniable proof of the authenticity of a work performed by hand because no machine could possibly produce this type of finish.

This exceptional titanium watch, featuring a black ceramic bezel, crown and pushpieces, also comes in a pink gold version. In the latter configuration, this luxurious and sporty instrument rife with superlatives is issued in a three-piece edition only, complete with a white rubber strap, an 18-carat pink gold caseband topped by a black ceramic bezel, along with white ceramic pushers and crown.

Each detail of this modern timepiece demonstrates the extent to which the Audemars Piguet Manufacture masters its classics to perfection and is capable of lending an unmistakably modern touch to tradition.

Technical details

Model: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication 44mm

Movement
Calibre 2885, selfwinding
Total diameter: 31.60 mm (14 lines)
Movement thickness: 8.95 mm
Number of jewels: 52
Number of parts: 648
Minimum guaranteed power reserve: 45 hrs
Cadence of the balance : 19,800 vph

Cases
Ref.26571RO.OO.A010CA.01:  18K pink gold case (44 mm), glare-proofed sapphire crystal and case-back, black ceramic bezel, white ceramic crown and pushpieces, water-resistant to 20 m. 
Ref.26571IO.OO.A010CA.01: Titanium case (44 mm), glare-proofed sapphire crystal and case-back, black ceramic bezel, crown and pushpieces, water-resistant to 20 m.

Dials
Ref.26571RO.OO.A010CA.01:  Sapphire dial, white counters, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, light silver-toned inner bezel ring.
Ref.26571IO.OO.A010CA.01: Sapphire dial, white counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, light silver-toned inner bezel ring.

Functions
Minute repeater, perpetual calendar, split-second chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds.

Special features
Grande Complication movement entirely open-worked and assembled by hand
Column-wheel chronograph mechanism
Striking mechanism sounding on two gongs placed on the same level
Metallised sapphire moon-phase indicators
Customisable oscillating weight
Hand-finished cut-out parts (polished bevels, bead-blasted, matt surface underneath)
Hand-finished bridges (rounded-off and polished bevels, satin-brushed flanks, circular-grained recesses)

Straps
Ref.26571RO.OO.A010CA.01:White rubber strap with 18K pink gold pin buckle.
Ref.26571IO.OO.A010CA.01: Black rubber strap with titanium pin buckle.

Edition
26571RO.OO.A010CA.01: 3-piece limited edition
26571IO.OO.A010CA.01:3-piece limited edition

A. Lange & Söhne Grand Complication Watch in Pink Gold with Enamel Dial, Ref. 912.032

German luxury watch manufacture A. Lange & Söhne unveils a limited edition grand complication watch, which is considered as the most complicated and most exclusive timepiece by the revered watch brand based in Saxony.

The Grand Complication features a host of fascinating functions and yet again manifests the ability of the Saxon master watchmakers to conquer ever new peaks with their undisputed ingenuity.

This masterpiece comes with the most elaborate complications which the art of haute horlogerie has to offer: Chiming mechanism with grand and small strike, minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph with minute counter and flying seconds as well as a perpetual calendar with moon-phase display.

A. Lange & Söhne GRAND COMPLICATION watch in pink gold, Ref. 912.032

This Lange grand complication watch in pink gold is available in a limited edition of six pieces only.

Chiming mechanism with grand and small strike, minute repeater

Two carefully hand-wrought gongs produce the seductive tones of the minute repeater and of the hour and quarter-hour strikes. The A. Lange & Söhne Grand Complication watch is endowed with a chiming mechanism that automatically indicates the time in the grand strike (grande sonnerie) or small strike (petite sonnerie) modes.

Every fifteen minutes, when set to grande sonnerie, it first indicates the full hour on the low-pitched gong and then the quarter-hours with a double strike on both gongs. In the petite sonnerie mode, it indicates the elapsed quarter-hours with one, two, or three double strikes on both gongs. At the top of every hour, it strikes the time in hours on the low-pitched gong.

The chiming mechanism is powered by one of a total of three mainspring barrels. They are wound with the crown. Turning the crown clockwise tensions the springs for the going train and the chronograph. The chiming mechanism barrel is wound in the opposite direction.

When the slide in the case flank is actuated, the minute repeater indicates the time on demand with two gongs: The hours sound with low-pitched tones, the quarter-hours with double-tone strikes, and the minutes with high-pitched tones. At 7:52, for instance, the melody consists of seven low tones, three double strikes, and seven high tones.

Monopusher Chronograph with Rattrapante Function & Flying Seconds

The chronograph of the A. Lange & Söhne Grand Complication is a monopusher type (chronographe monopoussoir) with a rattrapante function and flying seconds (seconde foudroyante). This rare supplementary function makes it possible to freeze stopped times to fifths of a second. A blued-steel hand on the lower subsidiary dial performs five jumps to complete each revolution along its five-second scale while the chronograph is running. Thus, the hand precisely emulates the balance frequency of 2.5 Hz.

A gold chronograph hand and a blued-steel rattrapante hand for stopping lap times sweep the main dial from the centre. They begin to run, together with the flying seconds, as soon as the pusher between 1 and 2 o’clock is pressed. After each revolution of the sweep hands, the minute counter hand in the dial at 12 o’clock advances by one interval.

When the pusher between 10 and 11 o’clock is activated, the blued-steel split-seconds hand will stop to indicate the lap time while the gold chronograph hand continues running. When the pusher in the left-hand flank of the case is pressed again, the split-seconds hand instantly catches up and then remains realigned with the chronograph hand.

When the right-hand pusher is actuated, all four chronograph hands will stop. Pushing the button a second time resets them all to zero. Both mechanisms are precisely and reliably controlled in the classic manner via two column wheels – one each for the chronograph and rattrapante functions.

Perpetual Calendar

The perpetual calendar mechanism emulates the Gregorian calendar. Not only does it know how many days each month has in the course of a year, it is also aware of the fact that February has 29 days in leap years. The mechanism first needs to be corrected by one day in the year 2100. This is because of special rule in the Gregorian calendar which stipulates that the leap year is omitted if the year is divisible by 100. The duration of each month is coded into a 48-segment wheel with recesses that are mechanically sampled by the date switching lever. The deeper the sampled recess, the shorter the current month.

Another special feature of the calendar is that it advances all displays, with the exception of the moon phase, at midnight. The calendar indications are positioned at 3, 9 and 12 o’clock. The subdial on the left indicates the date, the upper one the month in the four-year cycle, and the one at right the day of the week. The upper half of the flying seconds dial exposes the blue-enamelled, solid-gold moon disc that precisely tracks the synodic lunation of the earth’s companion.

The A. Lange & Söhne Grand Complication features a multi-part white enamel dial with Arabic numerals, a railway-track minute scale, and the four characteristic, symmetrically arranged subsidiary dials. A suite of time-consuming process steps is needed for each of the five dial elements to assure the flawless appearance of the composite dial. The heart of the exclusive manually wound movement is a balance that beats with a frequency of 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour.

As a tribute to Ferdinand A. Lange, who established Saxony’s watchmaking heritage, the watch incorporates a Glashütte lever escapement based on one of his early inventions. Its lever and escape wheel are made of hardened 18-carat gold. The lever is designed to be in perfect equilibrium.

A slight camber of the covered pallets prevents any adhesion with the escape wheel. The perfect execution of these intricate design features contributes to the enhanced rate accuracy of the watch. The oscillator is paired with a balance spring crafted in-house. When the mainspring is fully wound, it delivers a power reserve of 30 hours.

All parts of the complex manual winding movement are manufactured and lavishly finished by hand to the strictest Lange quality criteria. At several points, Lange’s master watchmakers took the amount of work invested in finissage to unprecedented levels: For example, all chronograph levers are black-polished.

The exclusive collectors’ item in the 50mm diameter 18K pink gold case comes in a limited edition of six watches.

Technical details

Model: A. Lange & Söhne GRAND COMPLICATION, Ref. 912.032

Movement
Lange manufacture calibre L1902, manually wound, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards, decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; plates and bridges made of untreated German silver; balance cock engraved by hand; chronograph levers black-polished
Jewels: 67
Screwed gold chatons: 7
Escapement: Glashütte lever escapement, lever and escape wheel in 18-carat gold
Oscillator: Shock-resistant screw balance, superior-quality balance spring manufactured in-house, frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour, precision index tail adjustment system with lateral setscrew and whiplash spring

Power reserve when fully wound
-Going train: 30 hours
-Grand strike: 30 hours
-Small strike: 42 hours

Functions
Time display with hours and minutes; chiming mechanism with grand and small strike; minute repeater; split-seconds chronograph with minute counter and flying seconds; perpetual calendar with date, day of week, month in four-year cycle; moon phase

Operating elements
Crown for winding the watch and setting the time; one pusher each for operating the chronograph and the rattrapante mechanism; lever for activating and deactivating the chiming mechanism; lever for selecting small and grand strike; slide for actuating the minute repeater; correction push pieces for advancing the date, day of week, month, and moon phase

Movement dimensions
Diameter: 40.5 millimetres; height: 14.2 millimetres

Case
Case material: Pink gold
Diameter: 50.0 millimetres
Height: 20.3 millimetres
Crystal and caseback: Sapphire crystal (hardness 9)

Dial
Five-part enamel dial
Hands: Pink gold; minute counter, rattrapante hand and flying se-conds hand blued steel

Strap
Hand-stitched crocodile strap, red-brown
Buckle: Lange deployant buckle in pink gold

Image Credit: Lange Uhren GmbH

Ellicott Master Complication RS 38

Swiss luxury watch brand Ellicott pays homage to its British heritage and to John Ellicott, one of the 18th century’s most accomplished watchmakers by unveiling RS 38 Master Complication. The grand complication watch, introduced as a tribute to the Council of the celebrated Royal Society of London, houses an exclusive mechanical movement that is the world’s thinnest minute repeater with perpetual calendar.

An 18K pink gold case, a winding and setting stem tipped with a black sapphire cabochon and a slide bolt opposite 9 o’clock add touches of refinement to this exceptional timepiece. Featuring a raised engraving, the clear sapphire case back reveals the movement’s complex workings.

Ellicott Master Complication RS 38

Its silver-toned and grey dial features sub-dials fitted with blued steel hands plus a moonphases indicator. Its diamond-polished watch and minute hands and hour markers are in 18K pink gold. The moonphases indicator combines a circular-grained mother-of-pearl moon moving over an aventurine sky.

The RS 38’s hand-wound mechanical movement displays the hours and minutes plus seven complications including a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar and a moon-phase indicator. Exceptionally slim at 5.10 millimetres, it consists of 388 parts and components, making it the world’s thinnest minute repeater movement with perpetual calendar and moon-phase display.

The Master Complication RS 38 from Ellicott, an impressive meeting of technological virtuosity between an exceptionally slim movement and a sleek design’s timeless elegance.

Technical details

Model: Ellicott Master Complication RS 38

Case
« Round shape » in pink gold 18k
Dimensions: 42 mm, 48 mm (including lugs)
Thickness: 10 mm
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflection treatment
Back with sapphire crystal and relief engraving
Water-resistant to 30 meters

Dial
Silver and grey dial, partially turned engine with indexes in pink gold 18k. Moon in mother of pearl over an aventurine sky
Hands, hours and minutes in pink gold 18k
Hands, dates, days, months in blued steel and leap year in red

Functions
« 7 complications »
• Minute repeater
• Perpetual calendar
– Dates of the month
– Days of the week
– Months
– Leap years

Movement
Calibre: E.RS-38
Diameter: 26.20 mm
Height: 5, 10 mm
Number of jewels: 30
Frequency: 18’000 a/h (2,5Hz)
Screws balance
Balance – spring flat
Power reserve: 31 hours
Number of components: 388
Winding: manual

Strap
Black alligator strap hand stitched
Buckle in pink gold 18k

Patek Philippe Ref. 5073 Grand Complication

The new Patek Philippe Ref. 5073 Grand complication not only impress the connoisseurs with its minute repeater and perpetual calendar complications but also dazzle the eyes of onlookers with beautifully decorated 103 baguette diamonds on its bezel and 55 further diamonds on the dial and clasp.

The “cathedral” gongs – extra-long gongs in the Minute repeater complication can produce an inimitably voluminous and reverberant sound.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5073 Grand Complication

Only a handful of manufactures are perfected in the art of crafting Minute repeaters, which need utmost perfection and traditional skill with high grade technology.

The main challenges for creating Minute repeaters are the integration of so many tiny components in to the watch case and to achieve full and vibrant sonority in the restricted volume of a timepiece worn on the wrist. Patek Philippe, who has an unmatched mastery in creating grand complications, introduced its minute repeater complication in 1916 and since then the manufacture’s micromechanical virtuosity does not need to be further expounded.

This leaves some space for details regarding the chimes produced by the new Ref. 5073. Here, Patek Philippe opted for a construction that in 2001 attracted considerable attention when the Sky Moon Tourbillon was presented. It is the solution with “cathedral” gongs that are nearly twice as long as conventional ones.

The acoustic principle of this extra length is self-explanatory: Long strings produce rich, long-lasting sounds that reverberate and carry clearly. But how can the tight space of a wristwatch case accommodate two gongs that wrap around the movement more than once? The “cathedral” gongs must neither touch each other nor should their freely suspended blades contact the movement or the case. The only permissible contact is that of the tiny short-stroke hammers.

Thus, with the self-winding caliber R 27 Q consisting of 467 individual parts, the Ref. 5073 offers striking evidence of the sublime artistry of those Patek Philippe specialists whose hands craft the mechanical marvels that count the hours, quarter-hours, and minutes with a melody of low-, high-, and high-low-pitched double chimes.

The mellowness of this refrain is personally verified by the owners and presidents of the manufacture as guardians of its heritage: every completed watch is assessed by them before it is released for delivery.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5073 Grand Complication

Apart from striking the time, the 467 individual parts of the movement perform further functions. Many of them constitute the perpetual calendar, with which the Ref. 5073 always correctly indicates the date, day of week, month, leap-year cycle regardless of the number of days in each month, including the 29th day of February.

These displays are clearly organized with three auxiliary dials and small hands at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. It also features an extremely precise moon-phase display within the date scale at 6 o’clock deviates from the true lunar cycle by only one day in 122 years and 45 days.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5073 Grand Complication
To assure continuity in the displays of the perpetual calendar and of the moon phases, the movement is self-winding thanks to an off-center minirotor made of 22K gold; it is fully recessed in the plate.

The rotor assures that the watch remains wound as long as it is regularly worn on the wrist or safeguarded in a winder. A calendar adjustment is not necessary until 2100: this is a secular year in which the 29th of February is omitted as a leap day based on the rules of the Gregorian calendar.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5073 Grand Complication

It case and exterior elements are designed to match the micromechanical brilliance of the Ref. 5073 Grand Complication .With a diameter of 42 mm, the heavy case is fashioned on premises with the traditional cold-forming method from blanks made of 950 platinum.

Then, the manufacture’s master jewelers rely on their artistry to transform it into a breathtaking magnum opus for the wrist. 103 flawless Top Wesselton baguette diamonds totaling approx. 4.33 ct. adorn the bezel and the case lugs.

Patek Philippe 5073P

On the black lacquered solid-gold dial, 13 set baguette diamonds (approx. 0.25 ct.) serve as hour markers. And 42 further baguette diamonds (approx. 0.66 ct.) convert even the platinum clasp into a masterpiece of gemsetting prowess.

As always at Patek Philippe, a discreet 0.02-ct. diamond between the lugs at 6 o’clock identifies platinum as the case metal. The sparkling fire of precious stones legitimately raises the question whether the adornment of a watch at this level should not count as a complication as well.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5073 Grand Complication

The watch is delivered with a solid platinum case back and an interchangeable display back with a sapphire-crystal window that reveals the meticulous finissage of the movement.

Highlights that immediately meet the eye are the lavishly guilloched 22K gold winding rotor and, beneath the goldplated cap with the pierced Calatrava cross, the small centrifugal governor that controls the disciplined rhythm of the striking mechanism.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Grand Complication Ref. 5073 in Platinum – Minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and moon phases

Movement
– Caliber R 27 Q
– Self-winding mechanical movement. Minute repeater with cathedral gongs and perpetual calendar. Day of week, 24-hour display, month, leap-year cycle, and date with hands, moon phases in an aperture.
– Overall diameter: 28 mm
– Height: 6.90 mm
– Number of parts: 467
– Number of jewels: 39
– Power reserve: Max. 48 hours
– Balance: Gyromax®
– Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz)
– Balance spring: Flat
– Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Functions
Two-position crown
– Pulled out: To set the time
– Pushed in: To wind the watch
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Displays
Hours and minutes from the center
Subsidiary dials:
– Day of week and 24-hour dial at 9 o’clock
– Month and leap-year cycle at 3 o’clock
– Date at 6 o’clock
Aperture:
– Moon phase at 6 o’clock

Corrector push pieces
– Date and day between 11 and 12 o’clock
– Month between 12 and 1 o’clock
– Moon phase at 6 o’clock
– Day at 10 o’clock

Delivered with correction stylus in ebony and platinum
Minute repeater cathedral gongs: Hours low, quarter-hours high-low, minutes high.

Case
– 950 platinum, solid platinum back and interchangeable display back with sapphire-crystal window, diamond of approx. 0.02 ct. between the lugs at 6 o’clock
– Dimensions: Diameter 42 mm
– Height: 11.11mm
– Width between lugs: 21 mm
– Slide: On the left side of the case to actuate the minute repeater

Dial
– Black, 18K gold.
– 13 baguette diamonds totaling approx. 0.25 ct. as hour markers
– Leaf-shaped hands in 18K white gold for hours and minutes
– Leaf-shaped hands in 18K white gold for date, day, and month
– White-lacquered baton hands in 18K white gold for 24-hour display and leap-year cycle
– Railway track minute scale on dial periphery
– Precious stones: Bezel and lugs set with 103 baguette diamonds totaling approx. 4.33 ct.

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny black, platinum foldover clasp
Foldover clasp set with 42 baguette diamonds totaling approx. 0.66 ct.

Patek Philippe Triple Complication in Platinum, Ref. 5208P

This year, Swiss luxury watch brand Patek Philippe unveils Ref. 5208P, a self-winding Grand Complication wristwatch with minute repeater, monopusher chronograph, instantaneous perpetual calendar with apertures, and moon phases.

The new Patek Philippe Triple Complication Ref. 5208P is a perfect example for Geneva based brand’s leadership and know how in the segment of Grand complication watches. It is the second triple complication model launched by the privately owned watch manufacture with in a short span of time.

In 2008, the brand successfully launched the Ref. 5207 Triple complication watch with a minute repeater, instantaneous perpetual calendar with aperture displays, and tourbillion. This year, Patek Philippe launches Ref. 5208P Triple Complication watch with a chronograph, minute repeater, and instantaneous calendar with aperture displays.

The new Ref. 5208P is one of the very few existing highly complicated watches with a self winding movement. Finally, it is the first true Grand Complication that integrates silicon-derived Silinvar® components: the revolutionary Pulsomax® escapement and the Spiromax® balance spring.

Patek Philippe Triple Complication in Platinum, Ref. 5208P

In the current collection of Patek Philippe’s Grand Complication wristwatches, the Ref. 5208P ranks second, directly behind the Sky Moon Tourbillon, and before the Ref. 5207 (minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar with aperture displays) and the Ref. 5216 (minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar with retrograde date).

Combining a self-winding minute repeater movement with a chronograph mechanism and an instantaneous perpetual calendar with aperture display was a huge challenge for the caliber engineers and master watchmakers. The self-winding basic movement with the minute repeater mechanism did not allow the arbors of the chronograph to extend through the strike train from the back.

On the other hand, the date, day, and month disks of the calendar must lie directly beneath the dial to assure the best possible legibility of the aperture displays. The only solution was to configure the chronograph between the repeater and calendar mechanisms. But even then, further difficulties presented themselves.

The challenge was so monumental that the caliber engineers were relieved to have access to the manufacture’s profound repository of experience. It was this know-how which made it possible to arrange the total of 701 individual parts in such a way that all functions harmonize flawlessly and dependably.

The Monopusher Chronograph

Patek Philippe has always emphasized the aesthetic appeal of a timepiece in the development of new movements, and it is a mandatory criterion of the Patek Philippe Seal. For this reason, the chronograph mechanism with its column wheel and the horizontal clutch had to be made extremely thin to fit the space between the movement and the instantaneous perpetual calendar.

In this respect, the Patek Philippe portfolio is a rich source: the caliber CH R 27-525 PS is the world’s thinnest splitseconds chronograph movement with column-wheel control. It contributed the friction drives for the minute and hour counters that are not only very thin but also offset the torque differences between the coupled and uncoupled states of the chronograph, assuring that the amplitude of the balance remains consistent in every operating mode.

Patek Philippe Triple Complication in Platinum, Ref. 5208P

Additionally, the toothing profiles of the chronograph wheels, also derived from this record-breaking movement, reduce wear and increase power transmission efficiency.

Conversely, the patented self-setting hammers and brake levers were borrowed from the new CH 29- 535 chronograph movement. They automatically assure the optimum lever position relative to the respective counterpart without requiring that the individual contact surfaces must be ground to a few hundredths of a millimeter in a time-consuming process.

Thanks to innovations of this kind and to the classic column-wheel and clutch-wheel control design, the overall height of the chronograph mechanism was reduced to 2.4 mm. The result is a three-phase chronograph with a monopusher at 2 o’clock that executes the start, stop, and reset commands when actuated in succession.

The seconds and fractions of a second are measured with the large sweep chronograph hand while the continuously running counters at 3 and 9 o’clock display the elapsed time on a 60-minute and a 12-hour scale.

Instantaneous Perpetual Calendar with Aperture Displays

The basics of its construction bears similarities with the Ref. 5207 launched in 2008, but the mechanism had to be extensively redesigned to accommodate the chronograph functions.

Because the chronograph mechanism is layered between the calendar and the movement proper, it was not possible to simply route the cannon pinion through the chronograph wheel into the calendar module with the standard time and calendar data displays. For this reason, a detour had to be designed for the cannon pinion.

Given the tight space conditions within the chronograph mechanism, it was a delicate task, and a considerable amount of research had to be conducted to develop the best possible solution. The cannon pinion is severed above the basic movement with the minute repeater.

Patek Philippe Triple Complication in Platinum, Ref. 5208P

Its rotary motion is laterally shifted before it is transmitted through the chronograph mechanism, but then routed back to the center in the calendar mechanism which drives the hour and minute hands, the calendar displays, the day/night indication, and the moon phases. However, the subsidiary seconds hand is powered directly by an arbor that extends straight into the subdial at 6 o’clock.

To distribute the force in the calendar module as economically as possible with the objective of assuring that all calendar displays will advance instantaneously and simultaneously at midnight ±2 minutes, the patented mechanisms of the Ref. 5207 were modified to match the new configuration of the movement.

Considering that the disks for the aperture displays have much larger masses than hands, this was anything but a trivial task. A large, 15-part yoke makes sure that all calendar displays are advanced by one day at the very same moment.

Additionally, an arrangement with two complementary lever springs that act in different directions assures that the switching force always remains constant despite considerable travel differences from the single-day jump at the end of months with 31 days to the four-day jump at the end of February when a non-leap year begins. This precludes incomplete switching cycles to a force deficit or overrides due to excessive force reserves.

The Minute Repeater

Given the fact that the Patek Philippe Triple Complication Ref. 5208 was endowed with an elaborate mechanism which instantaneously switches the calendar indications, the time display deserves special attention as well. Thus, the caliber R CH 27 PS QI movement not only has hour, minute, and seconds hands, it also features a minute repeater that indicates the progression of time with gentle yet distinctly audible sonority.

The minute repeater is considered among experts to be the queen of complications. With a mechanism composed of filigreed racks and snails, tiny hammers, and delicate, freely suspended gongs in the confined space of a wristwatch, it demands the utmost of skill from the watchmaker. In over 172 years, Patek Philippe has advanced the art of repeater timepieces to an unmatched degree of perfection.

When the owner of a Ref. 5208P actuates the slide, the result is a reverberant experience: first, the watch counts the elapsed hours on a low-pitched gong, then the number of quarter-hours with double strikes on both gongs, and finally the number of minutes that have passed since the last quarter-hour on the high-pitched gong.

Many years of research were invested in finding the best possible steel alloy as well as in developing the shape and attachment points for the gongs – insights that are carefully safeguarded like state secrets. Among connoisseurs, the tonality perfected by the manufacture is deemed unsurpassed by any other wristwatch minute repeater.

This sound quality – the manufacture’s acoustic signature – is individually analyzed for each watch in a soundproof echo chamber and compared with numerous digitized sound parameters. But because the impression of resonance is always very subjective, every Patek Philippe minute repeater is also personally judged by President Thierry Stern or Honorary President Philippe Stern. They listen to the melody several times and then decide whether the exceptional timepiece is ready for delivery or must be returned to the workshops for acoustic optimization.

The Silicon Revolution: Pulsomax® escapement and Spiromax® balance spring made of Silinvar®

Even though the sapphire-crystal case back of the new Ref. 5208P does not reveal the exciting realm of a chronograph mechanism, it does showcase a remarkable sight: the first Pulsomax® escapement and Spiromax® balance spring made of Silinvar® ever to be integrated into a Patek Philippe Grand Complication.

Developed within the scope of the Patek Philippe Advanced Research program, the new components made of Silinvar®, a silicon derivative, have patented functional features that make them ideal for powering a coup de maître like the new caliber R CH 27 PS QI precisely, reliably, and continuously.

Thanks to the excellent material properties of Silinvar® (hard, lightweight, nearly friction-free, antimagnetic, corrosion-resistant) and the ingenious patent-protected part geometries, the efficiency of the innovative escapement is about 30% better than a conventional assembly made of steel. The energy gain is tapped entirely for the chronograph functions.

Patek Philippe Triple Complication in Platinum, Ref. 5208P

Elegance and sleek understatement are pivotal hallmarks of Patek Philippe Grand Complication watches. They unite aesthetic design and elaborately engineered mechanisms in a harmonious whole. Legibility is another important criterion; after all, a Patek Philippe watch is always and primarily a timekeeping instrument. Accordingly, it was a considerable challenge to clearly arrange the 12 indications on the charcoal-colored solid-gold sunburst dial with a diameter of less than 40 mm.

Patek Philippe Triple Complication in Platinum, Ref. 5208P

It shows hours, minutes, and seconds of standard time with a day/night indication; elapsed seconds, minutes, and hours of stopped times; the day, date, month, and year of the perpetual calendar; and not least the moon phases.

The architectural result is so convincing that the new Triple Complication Ref. 5208 might at first sight be confused with one of Patek Philippe’s popular Annual Calendars which display the calendar information in three apertures, including a particularly prominent date aperture, at the top of the dial. But the slide in the left-hand side of the case, the monopusher at 2 o’clock, and the two subdials immediately show that more than a perpetual calendar is involved here.

Patek Philippe Triple Complication in Platinum, Ref. 5208P

And owners who are patient enough to wait until midnight can expect a rare extravaganza, especially on New Year’s Eve. That is when, at midnight, the day, date, month, and year displays instantaneously and simultaneously advance to indicate the next following day, date, month, and year.

People who know that movement wheels generally rotate continuously and at a rather leisurely pace can appreciate the fact that this instantaneous change of calendar displays is hardly achievable without an unusually elaborate ensemble of parts.

Patek Philippe Triple Complication in Platinum, Ref. 5208P

And all these parts are accommodated in a case made of 950 platinum. It is not a conventional design with lugs that are integral to the caseband. Instead, it consists of three parts (back, middle, and bezel) that are clenched between and screwed to two clamps. Only this unique construction allowed the lugs to be pierced as resolutely and aesthetically as is the case with the Ref. 5208.

Patek Philippe Triple Complication in Platinum, Ref. 5208P

They add charisma to a fusion masterpiece in which engineering virtuosity, mechanical ingenuity, finishing, materials, and design come together in harmony. It is worn on a strap for which, too, only the best is good enough: Shiny chocolate-brown, hand-stitched alligator leather with square scales, secured with a 950 platinum foldover clasp.

Because of its limited availability, the Ref. 5208P will be sold exclusively in the Patek Philippe Geneva Salons during the introductory phase.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Grand Complication Ref. 5208 in platinum – Minute repeater, monopusher chronograph, instantaneous perpetual calendar with aperture displays, and moon phases

Movement
– Caliber R CH 27 PS QI
– Self-winding mechanical movement, minute repeater and subsidiary seconds.
– Monopusher chronograph with column wheel, chronograph hand, 60-minute and 12-hour counters. Instantaneous perpetual calendar. Day, date, month, and leap-year cycle in apertures, day/night indicator, moon phases.
– Overall diameter: 32 mm (repeater and chronograph 28 mm; instantaneous perpetual calendar 32 mm)
– Height: 10.35 mm
– Number of parts: 701
– Basic movement with minute repeater: 331
– Chronograph mechanism: 160
– Instantaneous perpetual calendar: 210
– Number of jewels: 58
– Power reserve: Max. 48 hours
– Balance: Gyromax®
– Semi-oscillations per hour: 21,600 (3 Hz)
– Balance spring: Spiromax®
– Escapement: Pulsomax® (lever and escape wheel in Silinvar®)
– Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Functions
– Two-position crown at 3 o’clock
– Pulled out: To set the time
– Pushed in: To wind the watch
Pusher: Three-phase chronograph monopusher at 2 o’clock: Start, stop, reset

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Displays
Hours and minutes from the center
Sweep chronograph hand
Subdials at:
– 60-minute counter between 3 and 4 o’clock
– 12-hour counter between 8 and 9 o’clock
– Subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock
Apertures:
– Day between 10 and 11 o’clock in a polished white-gold frame
– Date at 12 o’clock in a polished white-gold frame
– Month between 1 and 2 o’clock in a polished white-gold frame
– Moon phase at 6 o’clock
– Day/night indication between 7 and 8 o’clock
– Leap year cycle between 4 and 5 o’clock

Corrector push pieces:
– Day corrector between 11 and 12 o’clock
– Month corrector between 12 and 1 o’clock
– Moon-phase corrector between 5 and 6 o’clock
– Date corrector between 6 and 7 o’clock

Delivered with correction stylus in ebony and 18K white gold
Slide Minute repeater with strike on low-pitched gong for hours, high/low for quarter-hours, and high for minutes.

Case
– 950 platinum with pieced lugs, platinum back, and interchangeable display back with sapphire-crystal window. Diamond of approx. 0.02 ct.
between the lugs at 6 o’clock
– Dimensions: Diameter 44 mm
– Height: 15.70 mm
– Width between lugs: 22 mm
– Slide: In 950 platinum on the left side of the case to activate the minute repeater

Dial
– 18K gold, sunburst charcoal
– 11 applied “obus” hour markers in 18K white gold
– Dauphine hands in 18K white gold for hours and minutes
– Baton-style counterbalanced chronograph hands, 18K white gold, white lacquered
– Baton-style hands for subsidiary seconds as well as 12-hour and 60-minute counters, 18K white gold, white lacquered
– Railway track scale on dial periphery
– 18K white-gold frame for date aperture, hammered and diamond-polished 18K white-gold frames for day and month apertures, hammered and polished

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny chocolate brown, platinum fold-over clasp

JEAN DUNAND Shabaka – Manual Wound Minute-Repeater Watch with Instantaneous Perpetual Calendar

Created in collaboration with world renowned master watch maker Christophe Claret, the JEAN DUNAND Shabaka watch houses a breathtaking combination of a minute-repeater on cathedral gongs plus an instantaneous perpetual calendar with a unique display of the dates, phases of the moon and leap-year cycle, as well as an ingenious state-of-wind indicator.

Defining both the personality and the originality of this impressive timepiece are the calendar indications, defying the convention of discs by instead using four cylinders. A quartet of different 90-degree transmission systems rotate the cylinders, each fitted with a security device to ensure precise calendar changes.

JEAN DUNAND Shabaka watch red gold version

Distancing the watch even further from the conventional, the dates – via two digits on separate cylinders – days and months jump instantaneously at midnight, when a sprung mechanism is released. A proprietary flywheel mechanism regulated by a train minimizes any shock from the jump action and so prevents premature wear and tear.

Leap-year cycles merit their own, equally novel indication: a white plate under the dial, in a cut-out on the dial between 7 and 8 o’clock, illuminates the letter B (for “bissextile”) and the three ordinary years. The leap-year is mirrored by the phases of the moon, with black discs skimming over the surface of the moon as if it were the shadow of the earth, eclipsing it to the left as it wanes, and revealing it from the right as it waxes. The mechanical moon deviates from the real moon by only one day every 120 years.

For all the complexity of the calendar indications, the state-of-wind indicator on the back of the watch is deviously simple yet equally original. A single moving part – the mainspring itself in an open barrel – shows the power reserve of the watch against a scale.

Shabaka’s minute-repeater strikes on cathedral gongs that go twice around the movement to give a deeper, more resonant chime. The minute-repeater slide occupies the left of the case, allowing the calendar setting controls to reside on the right.

Only two chronograph style pushers are needed to set the entire calendar, the pusher at 4 o’clock advances the date a day at a time, while that at 2 o’clock advances days only. A push-piece set coaxially in the crown advances the months and years, while the moon is set by a push-piece in the case-band at 5 o’clock.

JEAN DUNAND Shabaka watch with white gold case

A complex series of levers and rolls insinuate their way around the movement from the pushers to activate the respective calendar indications. The caliber is of a radically original construction, with the perpetual calendar mechanism integrated into the 13-ligne repeating movement.

JEAN DUNAND Shabaka watch movement CALIBRE CLA88QPRM

Emphasizing the stunning geometrical design of the dial, the mesmerizing cylindrical calendar displays are integrated into the Shabaka landscape. This superb piece of engineering exists on four levels composed of a high-tech frame delineating fields of blackened gold set with pyramids of assorted golds.

JEAN DUNAND Shabaka CALIBRE CLA88QPRM

The red hour-markers at 10, 12 and 2 o’clock serve to indicate the day, date and month respectively, against corresponding red triangles in the centre of the dial. Unmistakably and Art Deco-inspired design, with powerful Egyptian influences, the soul of this masterpiece lives in its exotic name – Shabaka, the 25th-dynasty Pharaoh and King of Egypt.

Shabaka has been imagined and realized by Thierry Oulevay and Christophe Claret, and is manufactured in the Christophe Claret workshops in Le Locle, Switzerland. Both are partners in World Première Watchmaking S.A., custodians of the JEAN DUNAND brand.

The Shabaka watch, their third joint project, follows the Tourbillon Orbital and the JEAN DUNAND Grand Complication wristwatch with 12 fully integrated complications. The 7mm-diameter cylinders are embedded 2.5 millimetres into the level of the minute-repeater to reduce further the thickness of the movement.

JEAN DUNAND Shabaka watch case back

An anthracite-black finish on the circular-grained baseplate and on the bridges, exquisitely decorated in concentric Geneva stripes, contrasts with burnished steel, ruby and gold to highlight the beauty of the movement. The movement and all of its dazzling complexity can be viewed  through the case-back.

Technical details

Model: JEAN DUNAND Shabaka

Movement
CALIBRE CLA88QPRM: Manually wound minute-repeater with instantaneous perpetual calendar.
Balance : With adjusting screws on an overcoil spring.
Swan’s neck index.18,000v/h.
Power Reserve : Approximately 45 hours.
Number of parts : 721, including 54 jewels.
Movement dimensions : 29.5mm (13 lignes).
Calendar plate, 36mm x 3.2mm (14 lignes).
Total height with dial and indications, 12.19mm.

Indications
Minutes and hours hands.
Days, dates and months on cylinders.
Leap-year cycle.
Moon-phases.
State-of-wind, directly by the mainspring.
Repeating the hours, quarters and minutes on two gongs.

Controls
Pushers in the case-band to advance the entire calendar (4 o’clock) and the days only (2 o’clock).
Push-piece in the crown to set the months and years.
Push-piece in the case-band (5 o’clock) to set the moon.
Repeating slide.

Case
18k white or red gold with a high-tech multilevel dial.
Dimensions, 44mm x 17.65mm.
Water-resistance, 3 ATM (30 metres)

Hands
See-through “Skyscraper” style, in 18k gold

Louis Moinet MAGISTRALIS

Louis Moinet is the world’s first brand to create a watch featuring an authentic piece of the moon. This 2000 year-old lunar meteorite is used for the moon-phase display of the hundred-year old and extremely sophisticated complication movement (including minute repeater, perpetual calendar and single-pusher chronograph functions) powering the MAGISTRALIS.

Louis Moinet MAGISTRALIS

The incredibly complex 5N rose gold and 3N case/18 carat white gold case is composed of 90 different parts, while the presentation box is highly creative in its own right: Louis Moinet introduces the first musical instrument for watches thanks to the watch stand which serves to amplify the sound of the repeater mechanism.

Louis Moinet MAGISTRALIS rose gold model

Finally, an original copy of Louis Moinet’s famous Traité d’Horlogerie sets the final dream touch to the fascinating history of this watch. Magistralis is an extraordinary watch representing the expert craftsmanship of the time-honoured art of Haute Horlogerie. It is one of a kind, unlike any other, and will never be repeated.

Louis Moinet MAGISTRALIS

The movement was created a hundred years ago. Designed in the Vallée de Joux, it was made in Geneva and bears the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. It beats at 18,000 vibrations per hour and features a (double-bladed) self-compensating balance and a flame-blued Breguet balance spring. Its flat-polished moustache lever escapement is hand chamfered and mounted on an endstone.

Louis Moinet MAGISTRALIS movement

The chronograph

The single-button column-wheel chronograph (6 columns) has a spring-assisted lever. The instantaneous jumping minute hand, a very distinctive mechanism, operates by means of a cam.

Louis Moinet MAGISTRALIS Minute repeater, Perpetual calendar and Single-pusher chronograph

The function of the cam is to load the minute lever by means of constant friction, thereby stabilising regulator operation (by avoiding loss of amplitude) when the chronograph function is activated. This technique is no longer used now, given the complexity of its entirely manual fine-tuning.

The striking mechanism

The striking mechanism comprises two hammers that sound the hours, quarter-hours and minutes, as well as an “all or nothing” lever. The mechanism for activating the striking mechanism is operated by pressing a lever, so as to facilitate handling of the repeater slide, which is always a delicate operation on traditional watches.

The making of a striking mechanism will always remain a manual operation that simply cannot be industrialised. Indeed, the extreme accuracy of the adjustments required for this complication can neither be done by machine nor measured; they truly do come from the watchmaker’s hand, ear and heart. For this reason, two identical striking mechanisms will sound different, precisely because they are adjusted by hand. The creation of a striking mechanism quite obviously requires all the experience of a skillful and knowledgeable master-watchmaker.

The Perpetual Calendar

The perpetual calendar function displays the day, date and month over four years. Its unique feature is its small size, as the perpetual date mechanisms of the period were usually much larger.

All of the steel parts of the bridges are polished with a tin block to achieve a perfect polish and cold-work the material so as to eliminate any cracks and thus protect it from oxidation with no need for any additional treatment. That is why these century-old steel parts are still as perfect as ever.

The Moon phase

Louis Moinet is presenting a world first, a lunar phase complication with real pieces of the moon. These pieces are from a lunar meteorite that was ejected from the moon 2,000 years ago. The meteorite has been authenticated by the University of California. Of all meteorites, the lunar kind is the rarest of all and is more expensive than gold and platinum put together.

Louis Moinet MAGISTRALIS Minute repeater, Perpetual calendar and Single-pusher chronograph

The Case

The case is made of 5N and 3N 18-carat rose gold/18 carat white gold . Its brand-signature design stands out especially for its crown guard (patent pending) and its chronograph button guard at 12 o’clock.

Louis Moinet MAGISTRALIS Minute repeater, Perpetual calendar and chronograph

The 90-part case is extremely complex to make. It features a pressure-controlled striking-mechanism lever, which makes the slide easier to manipulate. The various correctors are marked with the Louis Moinet symbols so their purpose is obvious.

Louis Moinet MAGISTRALIS Minute repeater, Perpetual calendar and chronograph

The Dial

The dial is adorned with the “Côtes du Jura” ® motif, an exclusive creation from the Ateliers Louis Moinet.

Louis Moinet MAGISTRALIS Minute repeater, Perpetual calendar and chronograph

The four counters are hollowed and their “old rose” shade ensures excellent readability of the indications provided by the century-old flame-blued steel hands.

The Watch Box

The box is entirely hand-crafted from curly maple by luthier Claude Bourquard, from the Jura. Claude has a thorough knowledge of resonance, acquired by making guitars and violins of the highest quality by hand. He has used this knowledge to design a true musical instrument using the watch support. Once the striking mechanism has been activated, the instrument amplifies its sound so the tone can be fully appreciated. This instrument is made of curly maple and varnished spruce, and Claude jealously safeguards the secrets of its manufacture, which make it a unique object.

Louis Moinet MAGISTRALIS Minute repeater, Perpetual calendar and chronograph

Louis Moinet has created the first musical instrument for a watch. The watch support amplifies the sound of the striking mechanism of MAGISTRALIS.

The 1848 Traité d’Horlogerie

An original of the Traité d’Horlogerie by Louis Moinet is also included in the box. This is the second edition, dated 1856. This book has the reputation of being the most beautiful of its century, and describes the best watchmaking techniques. It is illustrated by dozens of pages of watch mechanisms hand-drawn by Louis Moinet.

Features

Model: MAGISTRALIS, Limited Edition of 1
Reference: LM-15.65.50/50

Versions
5N and 3N 18-carat rose gold Case, Black dial
18-carat white gold Case , Black dial

Functions
Minute repeater, Perpetual calendar and Single-pusher chronograph

Price
CHF 1,000,000.00

RGM Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Model #103

This Grand Complication timepiece by American watch manufacture RGM incorporates two complex horological mechanisms: Minute Repeater and Perpetual Calendar.

It features a 38.5mm diameter case made of platinum or 18 carat rose gold. The platinum version is limited to 10 pieces. The rose gold variant is a limited edition of five pieces.

RGM Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Model #103R
Image Credit: RGM Watch Co.

The RGM Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar 103R watch houses a manual-winding C. Claret movement finished with Perlage & Cote de Genève decoration. The solid gold dial features silver finish and guilloche pattern.

RGM Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Platinum Model
Image Credit: RGM Watch Co.

At 12 o’ clock, the dial spotlights a sub-dial for displaying leap year and months. At 9 o’ clock, it has a date of the month counter. At 6 o’ clock, it displays the moonphase. The sub-dial at 9 o’ clock indicates the day. The dial hosts two central-hands for hour and minutes. All hands are made of blue steel.

Technical details

Model: RGM Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Model #103

Functions
Hour, Minute, Perpetual Calendar, Moonphase Indication & Minute Repeater

Case
Case material: Platinum or 18k Rose Gold
Sapphire crystal glass
Sapphire crystal display back
Diameter: 38.5mm
Thickness: 11.5mm

Dial
Solid Gold with Silver finish, Engine-turned by hand (guilloche)
Blued-steel hands

Movement
C. Claret, Bridges & Plates have Perlage & Cote de Geneve finish, 30 jewels, Manual winding

Strap
Leather strap with platinum or rose gold buckle

Edition
Platinum: Limited to 10 timepieces
18k Rose Gold: Limited edition of 5 pieces

Breguet CLASSIQUE 5447 Grande Complication Minute Repeater and Perpetual Calendar

Launched by Breguet in 2007, the CLASSIQUE 5447 Grande Complication houses a minute repeater mechanism that has been optimised on several levels.

Research on resonance conditions dealt in particular with the materials liable to produce and transmit an harmonious sound, as well as to preserve its purity in terms of intensity, richness and tone. This work has had a favourable impact on several parts: the gong spring, the gong holder, the striking mechanism barrel and the hammers, of which the energy is now significantly increased.

Breguet CLASSIQUE 5447 Grande Complication Minute Repeater and Perpetual Calendar

Moreover, the harmony between the two gongs has been enhanced using psycho-acoustic tests and analyses that served to fine-tune clarity, sound resolution and auditory compatibility. Finally, the positioning of the gong holders has been modified so as to achieve the most crystal -clear sound possible within the case, which serves as a resonance chamber.

Alongside these technical and functional improvements, it is worth recalling that the minute repeater mechanism, originally devised to provide an audible indication of the time, especially in the dark, calls for a particularly delicate process of adjusting the sound that is exclusively entrusted to a very rare breed of skilled craftsmen.

The slenderness of the gong is determined by the excellent musical ear and extreme dexterity of the master-watchmaker, since even the smallest adjustment error can irrevocably destroy the result of long hours of work. Abraham-Louis Breguet’s invention of the gong spring (a strip of metal wrapped around a movement) in 1783 made a decisive contribution to this field by enabling watchmakers to reduce the size of watch cases and to perfect the quality of the sound.

Breguet CLASSIQUE 5447 Grande Complication Minute Repeater and Perpetual Calendar

The Breguet CLASSIQUE 5447 Grande Complication Minute Repeater and Perpetual Calendar watch houses an entirely hand -engraved movement driving a complex retrograde jumping-month mechanism, located at 10:30. At the end of the year, the hand moving across the arc of a circle month indicator makes an almost instantaneous jump to return to the month of January and to resume its trajectory.

The date is displayed at 6 o’clock on a dial adorned with a sunburst guilloché motif, in which each of the rays corresponds to a date. The day of the week and leap-year indications appear opposite each other at 3:.30 and 8:30 respectively.

Finally, the phases and age of the moon are displayed at 1:30. Enhanced by the innate elegance and equilibrium of this model, the readability of the silvered dial honours the work of the in-house designers.

The regular texture of the hand-guilloché Clous de Paris motif absorbs rather than reflects the light, thereby facilitating at a glance read-off of the time and of the perpetual calendar indications.

Technical details

Model: Breguet CLASSIQUE 5447 Grande Complication
Reference. 5447BR/1E/9V6

Case
Round in 18-carat rose gold with finely fluted caseband. Rounded horns welded to the case, with screwpins to secure the strap. Diameter 40mm. Sapphire-crystal caseback.

Dial
Silvered 18-carat gold, hand-engraved on a rose-engine. Individually numbered and signed BREGUET. Chapter-ring with Roman numerals. Open-tipped BREGUET hands in blued-steel. Age and phase of the moon at 01:30. Day indicator at 4 o’clock. Date at 6 o’clock in a subdial, engine-turned in a sun pattern. Leap-year indicator in a subdial at 8 o’clock. Retrograde month indicator at 10:30.

Movement
Hand-wound, with minute -repeater and perpetual calendar. Entirely engraved by hand. Numbered and signed BREGUET. 12½ lines. 31 jewels. Cal. 567RMP1. 40 hours power-reserve. Straight-line lever escapement. 2.5Hz balance-wheel with load-screws. BREGUET overcoil. Adjusted in 6 positions.

Other versions
Also available in 18-carat white gold.