Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011: Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar with Rose Gold Case and Slate Gray Dial

Patek Philippe has expanded the Grand Complications family by launching a new version of Reference 5204 Split-Seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar watch.

This multi-complication mechanical timepiece has been available since 2016 in two rose gold versions, one with a silvered opaline dial and chocolate brown alligator strap (5204R-001), the other with an opaline ebony black dial and rose gold Goutte (droplet) bracelet (5204/1R). Patek Philippe now presents a new variation with a rose gold case and a matching slate gray dial and strap.

Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011: Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar with Rose Gold Case and Slate Gray Dial
Image Credit: PATEK PHILIPPE SA

The entirely hand-polished and sophisticatedly styled rose gold case is equipped with a concave bezel and two-tier lugs.

Despite the complexity of the movement, the indications on the “sunburst” dial stand out for their perfect legibility. The day and month are displayed in two in-line apertures at 12 o’clock. The date hand at 6 o’clock incorporates the moon-phase aperture. Small seconds and the instantaneous 30-minute counter appear on two subdials at 9 and 3 o’clock.

Two small round apertures display the leap-year cycle between 4 and 5 o’clock and the day/night indication between 7 and 8 o’clock – functions enabling accurate adjustment of the calendar. Whether by day or night, reading the time is facilitated by the applied hour-markers and Dauphine-type hands in rose gold, all with luminescent coating.

Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011: Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar with Rose Gold Case and Slate Gray Dial
Image Credit: PATEK PHILIPPE SA

The transparent sapphire caseback offers the view the CHR 29-535 PS Q Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar Caliber. First introduced in 2012 on Reference 5204P-001, this meticulously finished manual-winding movement incorporates seven patented innovations, including six for the chronograph and one for the split-seconds mechanism.

The new Reference 5204R-011 is worn on a shiny slate gray calf leather strap with an embossed alligator pattern and a rose gold fold-over clasp. Available with interchangeable sapphire crystal and solid case-backs, it is joining the two existing versions in rose gold.

Technical details

Case
18K rose gold case
Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 14.3 mm
Interchangeable solid and sapphire crystal case backs
Water-resistant to 30m

Movement
Manually wound mechanical movement. Caliber CHR 29‑535 PS Q
Diameter: 32 mm
Height: 8.7 mm
Number of parts: 496
Bridges: 12
Jewels: 34
Power reserve with the chronograph disengaged: min. 55 hours – max. 65 hours
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Breguet
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Functions
Split-Seconds chronograph
Instantaneous 30-minute counter
Perpetual calendar
Day, month, leap year and day/night indication displayed in apertures
Date indicated by hand
Moon phases
Small seconds

Dial
Slate gray sunburst, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating
18K gold dial plate

Strap
Calfskin, embossed alligator pattern, hand-stitched, shiny gray
Fold-over clasp

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Limited Edition, with Grade 5 Titanium Case

Swiss luxury watch brand Chopard presents a titanium version of its L.U.C Perpetual Chrono, the modern grand complication that combines chronograph and perpetual calendar functions.

Introduced five years ago, the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono houses the L.U.C 03.10-L movement, a veritable horological marvel notable for its integration of the most prestigious chronograph and perpetual calendar achievements. Carrying both “Chronometer certification” and the esteemed Poinçon de Genève, this masterpiece is now available with a lightweight grade 5 titanium case.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Limited Edition, with Grade 5 Titanium Case

One of very few titanium perpetual calendar chronographs on the market, the new L.U.C Perpetual Chrono timepiece presents an innovative alternative for collectors seeking options besides gold or platinum, while retaining the sense of precious rarity found in watchmaking at its most prestigious. Titanium’s lightweight nature ensures the 45-millimeter timepiece is an ergonomic and comfortable watch for everyday wear, while the short lugs make it a perfect fit for any wrist.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Limited Edition, with Grade 5 Titanium Case

The L.U.C 03.10-L movement was entirely developed and produced in Chopard Manufacture’s workshops and gave rise to four invention patents. The movement’s architecture is based on a construction reflecting the highest level of execution. At the heart of this mechanism, a column wheel precisely coordinates the functions of the chronograph, while a patented vertical coupling clutch ensures actuation that is light to the touch but utterly exact.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Limited Edition, with Grade 5 Titanium Case

The flyback function allows immediate reuse of the chronograph without the need to stop and reset. When the zero-reset pusher is pressed, however, the instantaneous movement of the counters and central sweep seconds hand is managed by patented progressive-contact hammers that guarantee optimal precision. Finally, a semi-instantaneous jumping minute counter ensures the precise display of chronograph minutes. All chronograph functions are highlighted on the dial by red details.

The patented perpetual calendar mechanism, crafted so that its displays integrate perfectly with the chronograph functions, is no less inventive. In particular, the high precision orbital moon phase, a showpiece of the dial design at 6 o’clock, is accurate to just a day’s deviation every 122 years.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Limited Edition, with Grade 5 Titanium Case

Testifying to its stature among the finest feats of Fine Watchmaking, the L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono timepiece is doubly certified as a “Chronometer” by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) – denoting superior performance for accuracy and reliability under varied conditions – as well as by the Poinçon de Genève, synonymous with the highest levels of hand finishing and aesthetic quality throughout the wristwatch.

The movement, exhibiting a multitude of opulent hand finishes across its complex plates and bridges, is visible through the watch’s display case-back.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Limited Edition, with Grade 5 Titanium Case

The elegant dial features a wide, twin-aperture instantaneous date display at 12 o’clock, with indications for the days of the week, the month, position in the leap year cycle and day/night display with a large orbital moon-phase at 6 o’clock. This highly complex but perfectly legible dial is a work of art in itself. The slate grey surface, created via a galvanic treatment on an 18-carat gold base, is decorated with a sunburst guilloché pattern.

With its subtle decoration, pared-back hour-markers and palette of soft greys with sporty bursts of red for the chronograph indications, the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono in grade 5 titanium offers a contemporary take on Fine Watchmaking in keeping with its lightweight casing.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Limited Edition, with Grade 5 Titanium Case

A grey strap in soft, nubuck calfskin further strengthens the sense of a Grand Complication watch that is understated and versatile, yet utterly distinct in its finesse and beauty.

The new L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is limited to 20 pieces only.

Technical details

Model: L.U.C Perpetual Chrono
Ref. 168611-3001 – in grade 5 titanium fitted with a grey nubuck calfskin strap
Numbered 20-piece limited edition

Case
Grade 5 titanium
Total diameter 45 mm
Thickness 15.06 mm
Water resistance 30 metres
Titanium crown with L.U.C logo 8.50 mm
Titanium pushers
Vertical satin-brushed case middle
Polished bezel and case-back
Exhibition case-back

Movement
Mechanical movement with manual winding L.U.C 03.10-L
Number of components 452
Total diameter 33.00 mm
Thickness 8.32 mm
Number of jewels 42
Frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve approx. 60 hours
Perpetual calendar – patented mechanism
Integrated column-wheel chronograph
Patented return-to-zero device with pivoting hammers and elastic arm
Patented chronograph seconds hand return-to-zero system
Patented vertical clutch device
Nickel silver mainplate and bridges
Côtes de Genève motif adorning the bridges
Balance-spring with flat terminal curve
Chronometer-certified (COSC)
Poinçon de Genève

Dial and hands
Black rhodium-toned and hand-guilloché solid gold dial, with beams radiating from the date – Snailed silver-toned inner bezel ring – Red and black transfers
Rhodium-plated hour-markers
Chronograph and perpetual calendar function counters obtained by black rhodium-based galvanic treatment and ruthenium-treated appliques
Snailed-finish day/night and leap-year counters obtained by black rhodium-based galvanic treatment
Rhodium-plated Dauphine fusée-type hours and minutes
Rhodium-plated Dauphine-type hands for the small seconds as well as the day and month calendar indications
Rhodium-plated triangular-shaped hands for the day/night and leap-year calendar indications
Rhodium-plated red-tipped Dauphine-type hands for the chronograph hours and minutes counters
Baton-type red-tipped sweep-seconds hand
Minutes track with white and red details

Functions and displays
Central display of the hours and minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock
Instantaneous large date at 12 o’clock
Days of the week displayed at 9 o’clock and months at 3 o’clock
Moon phases appearing in a rotating aperture at 6 o’clock
Off-centred day/night display at 10 o’clock and off-centred leap-year display at 2 o’clock
Vertical coupling-clutch chronograph with flyback function
12-hour counter at 9 o’clock
30-minute counter at 3 o’clock with semi-instantaneous minutes display
Stop-seconds function

Strap and clasp
Hand-sewn grey nubuck calfskin strap with nubuck lining and tone-on-tone stitching
Folding clasp in grade 5 titanium

Patek Philippe Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (With Yellow Gold Case and Silvery Opalescent Dial)

A successor of Patek Philippe’s grand 1941 classic (Ref. 1518), the Ref. 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph has been available since 2018 in platinum with a golden opaline dial and a rose-gold version with a gold “goutte” style bracelet.

Now, the manufacture is extending its regular collection of this grand complication in a yellow gold version for the first time.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (With Yellow Gold Case and Silvery Opalescent Dial)

The silvery opaline dial with applied baton indexes and leaf-shaped hands in yellow gold assures excellent legibility. The displays of the perpetual calendar are tastefully balanced with an analog date at 6 o’clock and a double aperture for the day and month at 12 o’clock. They are complemented with two small round apertures for the day/night indicator and the leap year cycle as well as the typical moon-phase window.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (With Yellow Gold Case and Silvery Opalescent Dial)

The caliber CH 29-535 PS Q is the first chronograph movement with a perpetual calendar developed in 2011 and crafted entirely by Patek Philippe. It combines traditional architecture (horizontal clutch, column wheel and manual winder) with six patented innovations for the chronograph functions and stands out with its extremely thin calendar mechanism (1.65 mm for 182 parts).

Patek Philippe Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (With Yellow Gold Case and Silvery Opalescent Dial)

The movement can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back. A solid back in 18K yellow gold is part of the scope of delivery.

The new Ref. 5270J-001 is worn on a hand-stitched matt chocolate brown alligator strap with large square scales secured with a yellow-gold fold-over clasp. It joins the previous platinum and rose-gold models to accommodate the individual preferences of aficionados of Patek Philippe grand complications.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (With Yellow Gold Case and Silvery Opalescent Dial)

Technical details

Model: Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

Movement
Caliber CH 29-535 PS Q
Manually wound mechanical movement, chronograph with column wheel, chronograph hand, instantaneous 30-minute counter and subsidiary seconds
Perpetual calendar with day, month, leap-year cycle and day/night indication in apertures, analog date Moon phases
Diameter: 32 mm
Height: 7 mm (of which 1.65 mm for the perpetual calendar mechanism)
Number of parts: 456 (of which 182 for the perpetual calendar mechanism)
Number of jewels: 33
Power reserve: Min. 55 hours – max. 65 hours with chronograph stopped
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Breguet
Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Functions
Two-position crown:
• Pushed in: To wind the watch
• Pulled out: To set the time

Displays
Center hour and minute hands
Sweep chronograph hand

Subsidiary dials:
– 30-minute counter between 3 and 4 o’clock
– Subsidiary seconds between 8 and 9 o’clock
– Date at 6 o’clock

Aperture displays:
– Day and month, in-line at 12 o’clock
– Moon phase at 6 o’clock
– Day/night indication between 7 and 8 o’clock
– Leap year cycle between 4 and 5 o’clock

Correctors:
– Day of week between 10 and 11 o’clock
– Month between 12 and 1 o’clock
– Moon phase between 6 and 7 o’clock
– Date between 11 and 12 o’clock
Delivered with correction stylus in ebony and 18K yellow gold

Pushers:
– Chronograph start and stop at 2 o’clock
– Chronograph reset at 4 o’clock

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Patents
Optimized toothing profile (No. EP 1437633 – 2009)
Improved precision adjustment of mesh depth (No. EP 1947531 – 2009)
Improved synchronization of clutch brake (No. MPM/DF/15484 CH – 2009)
Piercing of minute-counter cam (No. MPM/DF/15483 CH – 2009)
Self-adjusting hammers (No. MPM/DF/15482 CH – 2009)
Hammers suspended between jewel bearings (No. MPM/DF/15481 CH – 2009)

Case
18K yellow gold
Sapphire-crystal case back and interchangeable solid back in 18K yellow gold
Water-resistant to 30 meters
Case dimensions: Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 12.4 mm
Width between lugs: 21 mm

Dial
Silvery opalescent
12 applied baton markers in 18K yellow gold
Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands in 18K yellow gold
Counterbalanced chronograph hand, arrow-shaped, Pfinodal, yellowgold plated and sandblasted
Subsidiary dials offset, pierced:
– Subsidiary seconds with baton hands in 18K yellow gold
– 30-minute counter with baton hand in 18K yellow gold, sandblasted
– Analog date with baton hand in 18K yellow gold

Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with large square scales, matt chocolate brown, with fold-over clasp in 18K yellow gold

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication Watch – New Black and White Ceramic Models

Presented at SIHH 2018, the new 44mm Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication watch models feature ceramic push-pieces and crowns, push-piece guards, cases, and case-backs for a high tech metal look.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication Watch – New Black Ceramic Model

Black ceramic is reinforced with yttrium oxide, making it seven times harder than steel. White ceramic on the other hand is reinforced with aluminium oxide which gives it a high gloss finish and makes it even harder than black ceramic and nine times harder than steel.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication Watch – New White Ceramic Model

Equipped with the Manufacture Calibre 2885 automatic movement, this grand complication watch incorporates Minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and split-seconds chronograph.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication Watch – New Black Ceramic Model

The new ceramic editions of the Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication watch come fitted with black or white rubber strap with titanium pin buckle.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication Watch – New White Ceramic ModelTechnical details

Model: Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication

Movement
Self-winding Manufacture Calibre 2885
Total diameter 31.60mm (14 lignes)
Total thickness 8.55mm
Number of jewels 52
Number of parts 648
Minimal guaranteed power reserve 45h
Frequency of balance wheel 2.75Hz (=19,800 vibrations/hour)

Functions
Minute repeater, perpetual calendar, chronograph, split-seconds chronograph

Reference: 26582CB.OO.A010CA.01
– Case: White ceramic case, 44mm, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, white ceramic and titanium push-pieces and crown, white ceramic push-piece guards, water-resistant to 20m
– Dial: Sapphire dial, white counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands, silver-toned inner bezel
– Bracelet: White rubber strap with titanium pin buckle

Reference: 26582CE.OO.A002CA.01
– Case: Black ceramic case, 44mm, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, black ceramic and titanium push-pieces and crown, black ceramic push-piece guards, water-resistant to 20m
– Dial: Sapphire dial, black counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands, black inner bezel
– Bracelet: Black rubber strap with titanium pin buckle