Habring² x Massena LAB Chrono Felix Perpetual, LAB-CFP

Creative horological studio Massena LAB presents Habring² x Massena LAB Chrono Felix Perpetual, the LAB-CFP, a monopusher chronograph and perpetual calendar, a rare combination and a technical accomplishment from Maria and Richard Habring.

The LAB-CFP marks Massena LAB’s fourth official collaboration with Habring² following 2018’s ERWIN LAB01, 2020’s ERWIN LAB02, and, most recently, the ERWIN LAB03, released in 2021. Significantly, this is Massena LAB’s first collaboration with Habring² to feature the brand new reference from Habring², the Chrono Felix Perpetuel.

Habring² x Massena LAB Chrono Felix Perpetual, LAB-CFP

The dial of the Habring² x Massena LAB-CFP is inspired by the Patek Philippe reference 1518, an iconic perpetual calendar chronograph first introduced in the 1940s.

The influence of this “grail watch” is particularly visible in the use of applied, Arabic numerals for the hour markers on the dial of the Massena LAB-CFP. Inspired by the film negatives used in the analogue photography, the monochromatic, black-and-steel dial of the LAB-CFP is striking, high-contrast, and easily legible.

Habring² x Massena LAB Chrono Felix Perpetual, LAB-CFP

The LAB-CFP is a monopusher chronograph perpetual calendar which displays hours and minutes, day of the week (at 3 o’clock), month and leap year indicator (at 6 o’clock), day of the month (at 9 o’clock) and moonphase (at 12 o’clock). Also at 12 o’clock is the chronograph’s thirty minute counter.

The LAB-CFP is powered by an all-new, in-house caliber from Habring². The manual-winding A11CP caliber offers a power reserve of 48 hours. This 21 jewel movement beats at 28,800 half oscillations per hour.

Habring² x Massena LAB Chrono Felix Perpetual, LAB-CFP

Monopusher chronograph with a perpetual calendar is both a rare watch complication and a technical feat. Apart from Patek Philippe, Habring² is the only manufacture to produce timepieces that combine these two complications.

The LAB-CFP features an original, Massena-LAB-designed, stepped case made from 316L stainless steel. It measures 38.5mm diameter. The stepped case was chosen not only to reference past vintage models, but also to disguise its three correctors, which are pushed to manipulate the date, day of the week, and moon phase.

Habring² x Massena LAB Chrono Felix Perpetual, LAB-CFP

Paired with a black, nubuck alligator strap made by Jean Rousseau Paris exclusively for Massena LAB, the Habring² x Massena LAB Chrono Felix Perpetual (LAB-CFP) will be delivered in a wooden presentation box made from Douglas fir, a sustainable material, along with a Massena LAB NFC card, and a two-year guarantee. The Habring² LAB-CFP is priced at $24,995 USD.

Technical details

Model: Habring² x Massena LAB Chrono Felix Perpetual (LAB-CFP)

Functions
Hours, minutes, monopusher chronograph with thirty minute counter, perpetual calendar (day of month, day of week, month, moonphase, leap year indicator)

Movement
Manual-winding, Habring² caliber A11CP
28,800 half oscillations per hour (4Hz)
Power reserve of 48 hours
21 jewels

Dial
Black with steel, applied Arabic numerals and silver indices
Hands: Stainless steel

Case
Massena-LAB-designed stepped case in 316L stainless steel
Dimensions: 38.5mm case; height: 13mm
Lug Width: 20mm
Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides.
Case back: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides
Water resistance: 30 meters

Strap
Black nubuck alligator leather straps made exclusively for Massena LAB by Jean Rousseau Paris
Polished stainless steel pin buckle

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204G-001

Patek Philippe presents a new version of its split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar watch. This new model has a white-gold case and an olive-green sunburst dial with a black gradation to the periphery.

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204G-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

The new Ref. 5204G-001 with its manually wound split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar caliber CHR 29-535 PS Q fully reflects the tradition of Patek Philippe’s most coveted grand complications.

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204G-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

This new reference comes with a shiny olive-green calfskin strap with beige contrast seams secured with a white-gold fold-over clasp.

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204G-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

The Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar 5204 is also available in rose gold with a slate-gray dial and strap (reference 5204R-011).

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204G-001

Movement
Caliber CHR 29‑535 PS Q
Manually wound mechanical movement

Functions
Split-Seconds chronograph
Instantaneous 30-minute counter
Perpetual calendar: Day, month, leap year and day/night indication displayed in apertures. Date indicated by hand
Moon phases
Small seconds

Dial
Olive green sunburst dial with black-gradient rim
Gold applied baton-style faceted hour markers with luminescent coating
18K gold dial plate

Case
White gold case
Interchangeable solid and sapphire crystal case backs
Water-resistant to 30 m
Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 14.3 mm

Bracelet
Calfskin, hand-stitched, shiny olive green
Fold-over clasp

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 5373P-001

Patek Philippe presents a new reinterpretation of its iconic Ref. 5372 Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph.

Especially dedicated to left-handers, the new Patek Philippe Ref. 5373P-001 features a platinum case and modern looks that emphasize its sporty and contemporary style dial. It will be produced in small series.

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 5373P-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

In 2005, Patek Philippe developed a complete series of chronograph movements with and without additional functions. All of them were designed and produced in-house.

The first among them was the manually wound caliber CHR 27-525 PS, the world’s thinnest column-wheel-controlled split-seconds chronograph movement. The caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q launched in 2010 (with the same base movement plus an extremely thin calendar module) has a height of only 7.3 mm. It is the thinnest split-seconds chronograph movement with perpetual calendar ever produced by the manufacture.

Since 2017, this exceptional caliber has been crafted in very small numbers in line with venerable watchmaking traditions. It ticks in a platinum watch with a blue sunburst dial (Ref. 5372P-001) or a rose gilt dial with a vertical satin finish (Ref. 5372P-010).

Inspired by a one-of-a-kind piece sold by Patek Philippe in 1927, a custom-made cushion-shaped split-seconds chronograph (movement No. 198 012), the manufacture has now converted the Ref. 5372 into a new version for left-handers.

The exclusive Ref. 5373P-001 combines a split-seconds chronograph with one of the most elaborate functions – the perpetual calendar which stands emblematically for the grand complications of Patek Philippe.

With a diameter of 38.3 mm, the platinum case has the same size as the Ref. 5372 but its crown (with an integrated chronograph monopusher) is at 9 o’clock and the split-seconds pusher occupies an unusual position at 8 o’clock. It preserves its timeless elegance with the polished, concave bezel that creates the perfect transition to the slightly domed sapphire-crystal back, the recessed and satin-finished case flanks, and the delicately curved strap lugs that merge with the bars almost seamlessly.

The indications (counters and apertures) of the dial are rotated by 180°: the analog date at 12 o’clock, the subsidiary seconds at 3 o’clock, the moon phases at 6 o’clock and the 60-minute counter at 9 o’clock, complemented by the aperture displays for the day of the week and the month as well as the leap year cycle at 10:30 and the day/night indicator at 1:30.

Patek Philippe has also reworked the aesthetic appeal of the dial, endowing it with a charcoal-colored aspect and a vertical satin-finish; it is ingeniously animated by a black gradation to the periphery and the snailed ebony-black subsidiary dials. The indication of the time is based on applied Arabic numerals and faceted Dauphine hour and minute hands in white gold.

The moon-phase display is extremely precise: it deviates from the actual lunar cycle by just one day every 122 years.

For crisp legibility, the three chronograph hands from the center – chronograph and split-seconds hands as well as the 60-minute counter hand at 9 o’clock – are varnished red. The three chronograph commands (Start, Stop, and Reset) are selected with the monopusher in the crown at 9 o’clock. Stopping lap times with the split-seconds hand (rattrapante) is handled with the rectangular pusher at 8 o’clock.

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 5373P-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

A sapphire-crystal display back (interchangeable with the solid-platinum back delivered with the watch) reveals the fantastic architecture of the caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q movement with its two column wheels that bear two polished caps in the typical Patek Philippe style.

The bridges, decorated with Geneva striping, are carefully chamfered and the edges are polished. A focus is also on the elegance of the form parts and the bridges à l’ancienne. Their acute internal angles can only be completed by hand, which calls for considerable dexterity and many years of experience.

The sporty looks and modern attitude of the dial also applies to the black calfskin strap with an embossed textile texture and red contrast seams. It is secured with a platinum fold-over clasp.

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 5373P-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe

Like all of Patek Philippe’s platinum watches, the new Ref. 5373P-001 features a brilliant cut diamond in the caseband. As an exception for left-handers, it is set at 12 o’clock in this timepiece.

From now on, this watch is the only remaining model with the caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q movement that was formerly available in the Ref. 5372P-001 & 5372P-010; both models have been retired from the collection.

Crafted in 1925-1926 on request for a left-handed customer and sold in 1927, this split-seconds chronograph with a cushion case in 18K yellow gold (34 x 34 mm) and movement No. 198‘012 (diameter 13 lignes) stood out with its unusual arrangement of operating elements and displays.

The case and the movement were rotated by 180° with the chronograph pusher at 9 o’clock instead of 3 o’clock and the split-seconds pusher at 8 o’clock instead 2 o’clock.

The silver dial with black Brequet numerals was reconfigured to reposition the 30-minute chronograph counter from 3 to 9 o’clock and the subsidiary seconds from 9 to 3 o’clock. The uncommon shape of the chronograph and split-seconds hand with counterweights stands out as well.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Ref. 5373P-001 Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar

Movement
Caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q
Manually wound mechanical movement, split-seconds chronograph with column wheel, chronograph and split-seconds hand, 60-minute counter, and subsidiary seconds. Perpetual calendar with day, month, leap-year cycle and day/night indication in apertures, analog date. Moon phases.
Diameter: 27.3 mm
Height: 7.3 mm (base movement: 5.25 mm; perpetual calendar: 2.05 mm)
Number of parts: 476
Number of jewels: 31
Power reserve: Min. 38 hours – max 48 hours (with the chronograph uncoupled)
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Breguet

Crown functions
2-position crown
– Pushed in: To wind the watch
– Pulled out: To set the time and stop the seconds hand

Pushers
• Pusher in the crown at 9 o’clock to start, stop, and reset chronograph
• Pusher at 8 o’clock to start and stop the split-seconds hand

Displays
Center hour and minute hands
Sweep chronograph and split-seconds hands

Subsidiary dials
• Subsidiary seconds at 3 o’clock
• 60-minute counter at 9 o’clock
• Date at 12 o’clock

Display apertures
• Day of week at 3 o’clock
• Month at 9 o’clock
• Day/night at 1:30
• Leap-year cycle at 10:30
• Moon phases at 6 o’clock

Correctors
• Day of week between 2 and 3 o’clock
• Month between 6 and 7 o’clock
• Moon phase between 4 and 5 o’clock
• Date at 6 o’clock
Delivered with correction stylus in ebony and 18K white gold

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
950 platinum
Delivered with solid platinum back and interchangeable sapphire-crystal display back
Water-resistant to 30 meters (3 bar)
Case dimensions: Diameter: 38.3 mm
Height: 12.93 mm
Width between lugs: 20 mm

Dial
Dial in 18K gold, charcoal-colored with black gradation, vertical satin finish
Applied Arabic numerals in 18K white gold
Faceted Dauphine hour and minute hands in 18K white gold
Arrow-shaped chronograph and split-seconds hands in Pfinodal, lacquered red, counterweighted
Snailed ebony-black subsidiary dials:
– Subsidiary seconds at 3 o’clock: White-gold baton hands, lacquered white
– 60-minute hand at 9 o’clock, white-gold baton hand, lacquered red
– Date hand at 12 o’clock: White-gold baton hands, lacquered white

Strap
Black calfskin with embossed textile texture and contrasted red stitching, platinum fold-over clasp

Habring² Chrono Felix Perpetual with Salmon Dial

The Habring² manufactory in Carinthia, Austria presents Chrono Felix Perpetual, a petit-sized wristwatch with perpetual calendar and a single button chronograph.

The Chrono Felix Perpetual is smaller than the iconic Habring² Perpetual Doppel, which is the double chronograph with perpetual calendar. The 38.5mm case of Chrono Felix Perpetual houses the Habring² in-house calibre A11CP.

Habring² Chrono Felix Perpetual with Salmon Dial

This manual-wound mechanical movement incorporates a perpetual calendar module made by the famous Swiss manufactory Dubois Depraz from the Vallée de Joux.

Inspired by the iconic ETA 7750 chronograph movement, Habring² A11CP is a finely finished and decorated calibre with a 45 hour power reserve.

Habring² Chrono Felix Perpetual with Salmon Dial

This Habring² Chrono-Felix Perpetual model has a salmon colored dial. The chronograph minute counter comes through the moon display and counts a maximum of 30 minutes.

Habring² Chrono Felix Perpetual with Salmon Dial

The date, day of the week and the moon phase are displayed, as well as a leap year. Date, month and moon phase can be adjusted via three correctors. The fourth corrector is dispensed with because the chrono pusher also needs its “workplace”. The day of the week is simply corrected via the hands.

Technical details

Model: Habring² Chrono-Felix Perpetual

Movement
Habring² A11CP Calibre
Diameter 30 mm, height 7.3 mm
28,800 half oscillations per hour (4Hz)
Manually wound
Fine adjustment via tangential screw
Amagnetic escapement with a Carl Haas balance spring in chronometer quality
KIF shockproof pursuant to DIN and NIHS
21 jewels
Power reserve: approx. 45 hours
Elaborately refined by hand with polished bevels, decorative grinding, perlage, etc

Functions
Indication of hours and minutes
Indication of day, date, month, leap year and moon phase
Monopusher chronograph with 30 minute counter at 12h

Case
Stainless steel watchcase made of three parts
38.5 mm diameter, 12 mm high
Water-protected equivalent 30 meter depth
Domed sapphire crystal coated with anti-glare on both sides
Solid double sealed stainless steel crown, sapphire crystal back
Consecutive serial number between the lugs at 6h

Dial
Galvanized metal with rhodiated numerals and black print

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Platinum Ref. 5270P-014

Patek Philippe has added a new platinum variant to its Perpetual Calendar Chronograph series with reference 5270.

For the new platinum Ref. 5270P-014 Chronograph with a perpetual calendar, Patek Philippe has opted for a green lacquered dial with a black gradation. This color theme is inspired by some of the most stunning vintage cars.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Platinum Ref. 5270P-014

The Patek Philippe 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph was introduced in 2011. This manual-wound watch from the Grand Complication range is equipped with the CH 29-535 PS Q caliber.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Platinum Ref. 5270P-014

It offers a power reserve of 65 hours with the chronograph disengaged. The 40mm diameter platinum case has a water resistance of 30 meters.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Platinum Ref. 5270P-014

Movement
Caliber CH 29‑535 PS Q
Manually wound mechanical movement
Diameter: 32 mm
Height: 7 mm
Number of parts: 456
Jewels: 33
Power reserve: With the chronograph disengaged: min. 55 hours – max. 65 hours. Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 28 800 (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Breguet
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Functions
Chronograph: Central chronograph hand and Instantaneous 30-minute counter
Perpetual Calendar: Day, month, leap year and day/night display in apertures. Date by hand
Moon phases
Seconds subdial

Case
Platinum case
Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 12.4 mm
Interchangeable full back and sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30 m

Dial
Laquered green dial with black-gradient rim
Gold applied hour markers

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny black
Fold-over clasp

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Platinum with a Salmon-Coloured Dial

Vacheron Constantin presents a new Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph timepiece with a platinum case with a salmon-coloured dial. This classically inspired combination is available in limited annual production exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques. This new high complication watch is powered by the in-house Calibre 1142 QP.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Platinum with a Salmon-Coloured Dial

As its name suggests, this watch embodies traditional watchmaking codes, notably including Dauphine-type hands, a railway-type minutes track and a stepped case with distinctive fluting on the back. The legibility of the functions – an essential characteristic of Vacheron Constantin watches – is carefully orchestrated between the chronograph and the perpetual calendar.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Platinum with a Salmon-Coloured Dial

Time indications are provided by white gold hands and hour-markers, while the chronograph and date functions are displayed by blued steel hands. The 30-minute chronograph counter and the small seconds counter appear in a perfectly balanced symmetrical arrangement.

The moon phases appear on a platinum disc at 6 o’clock, integrated within the pointer-type date display. The day, month and leap-year cycle are read off through apertures in the upper part of the dial.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Platinum with a Salmon-Coloured Dial

The technical nature of the model is further accentuated by the tachymeter scale around the periphery and serving to calculate the average speed over a distance of 1000 metres thanks to the positioning of the chronograph seconds hand.

In keeping with the Maison’s philosophy of sophisticated aesthetics ensuring that each component benefits from meticulous care enhancing the overall beauty of each model, meticulous attention has been lavished on the dial.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Platinum with a Salmon-Coloured Dial

Its opaline salmon-coloured small seconds and chronograph minute counters are distinguished by a circular satin- brushed ring with a finely snailed centre. The same snailed finish is featured on the circumference displaying the date numerals.

The platinum disc, bearing a moon that is alternately smiling and melancholy depending on the phase, has also been revisited in the spirit of 19th century table watches. The raised moons are polished and surrounded by stars against a frosted background.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Platinum with a Salmon-Coloured Dial

One final detail plays a particularly important role in accentuating the exclusive nature of this new interpretation: a relief and facetted version of Maison’s emblematic Maltese cross beneath the 12 o’clock hour-marker. Crafted in 18K 5N pink gold, it features facets on each arm that are sandblasted on one side and polished on the other, thus providing a new expression of the Vacheron Constantin symbol.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Platinum with a Salmon-Coloured Dial

This watch is equipped with manual-winding Calibre 1142 QP. This chronograph movement, complemented by a perpetual calendar, is one of the most highly prized historical calibres among collectors. It dates back to the 1940s and is notably distinguished by the sophisticated aesthetics of its architecture as well as by its reliability and precision enhanced by its column-wheel system.

This 324-component movement in its perpetual calendar version has been adapted over the decades, particularly to meet Hallmark of Geneva criteria, while its rate frequency has been modified to 3 Hz (21,600 vph) and its power reserve amounts to 48 hours.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Platinum with a Salmon-Coloured Dial

The movement finishing which can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback is the object of particular attention perfectly illustrating this year’s theme, with a circular-grained mainplate, Côtes de Genève motif on the bridges, hand-bevelled components and straight-grained flanks.

The watch comes with an alligator leather strap secured by a folding clasp in platinum.

The elegant design of this new Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph is entirely in keeping with Vacheron Constantin’s 2022 “The Anatomy of Beauty®” theme. This extraordinarily painstaking care is expressed through the designers’ aesthetic choices and preferences as well as in the meticulous finishing work performed by the artisans.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Reference: 5000T/000P-B975

Movement
Caliber 1142 QP
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
27.5 mm (12’’’) diameter, 7.37 mm thick
Approximately 48 hours of power reserve
3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
324 components
21 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month, leap year indication)
Moon phase
Column-wheel chronograph (30-minute counter at 3 o’clock)

Case
950 platinum
43 mm diameter, 12.94 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial
Salmon-coloured opaline
950 Platinum moon disc
18K white gold applied hour-markers and hour and minute hands
Blued steel chronograph and date hands
Black painted tachymeter scale

Strap
Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp: 950 platinum folding clasp; Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Accessory
Delivered with a corrector pen

Availability
Available exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques

Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011: Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar with Rose Gold Case and Slate Gray Dial

Patek Philippe has expanded the Grand Complications family by launching a new version of Reference 5204 Split-Seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar watch.

This multi-complication mechanical timepiece has been available since 2016 in two rose gold versions, one with a silvered opaline dial and chocolate brown alligator strap (reference 5204R-001), the other with an opaline ebony black dial and rose gold Goutte (droplet) bracelet – Reference 5204/1R.

Patek Philippe now presents a new variation with a rose gold case and a matching slate gray dial and strap.

Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011: Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar with Rose Gold Case and Slate Gray Dial
Image Credit: PATEK PHILIPPE SA

The entirely hand-polished and sophisticatedly styled rose gold case is equipped with a concave bezel and two-tier lugs.

Despite the complexity of the movement, the indications on the “sunburst” dial stand out for their perfect legibility. The day and month are displayed in two in-line apertures at 12 o’clock. The date hand at 6 o’clock incorporates the moon-phase aperture. Small seconds and the instantaneous 30-minute counter appear on two subdials at 9 and 3 o’clock.

Two small round apertures display the leap-year cycle between 4 and 5 o’clock and the day/night indication between 7 and 8 o’clock – functions enabling accurate adjustment of the calendar. Whether by day or night, reading the time is facilitated by the applied hour-markers and Dauphine-type hands in rose gold, all with luminescent coating.

Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011: Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar with Rose Gold Case and Slate Gray Dial
Image Credit: PATEK PHILIPPE SA

The transparent sapphire caseback offers the view the CHR 29-535 PS Q Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar Caliber. First introduced in 2012 on Reference 5204P-001, this meticulously finished manual-winding movement incorporates seven patented innovations, including six for the chronograph and one for the split-seconds mechanism.

The new Reference 5204R-011 is worn on a shiny slate gray calf leather strap with an embossed alligator pattern and a rose gold fold-over clasp. Available with interchangeable sapphire crystal and solid case-backs, it is joining the two existing versions in rose gold.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011: Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar with Rose Gold Case and Slate Gray Dial

Case
18K rose gold case
Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 14.3 mm
Interchangeable solid and sapphire crystal case backs
Water-resistant to 30m

Movement
Manually wound mechanical movement. Caliber CHR 29‑535 PS Q
Diameter: 32 mm
Height: 8.7 mm
Number of parts: 496
Bridges: 12
Jewels: 34
Power reserve with the chronograph disengaged: min. 55 hours – max. 65 hours
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Breguet
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Functions
Split-Seconds chronograph
Instantaneous 30-minute counter
Perpetual calendar
Day, month, leap year and day/night indication displayed in apertures
Date indicated by hand
Moon phases
Small seconds

Dial
Slate gray sunburst, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating
18K gold dial plate

Strap
Calfskin, embossed alligator pattern, hand-stitched, shiny gray
Fold-over clasp

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Limited Edition, with Grade 5 Titanium Case

Swiss luxury watch brand Chopard presents a titanium version of its L.U.C Perpetual Chrono, the modern grand complication that combines chronograph and perpetual calendar functions.

Introduced five years ago, the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono houses the L.U.C 03.10-L movement, a veritable horological marvel notable for its integration of the most prestigious chronograph and perpetual calendar achievements. Carrying both “Chronometer certification” and the esteemed Poinçon de Genève, this masterpiece is now available with a lightweight grade 5 titanium case.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Limited Edition, with Grade 5 Titanium Case

One of very few titanium perpetual calendar chronographs on the market, the new L.U.C Perpetual Chrono timepiece presents an innovative alternative for collectors seeking options besides gold or platinum, while retaining the sense of precious rarity found in watchmaking at its most prestigious. Titanium’s lightweight nature ensures the 45-millimeter timepiece is an ergonomic and comfortable watch for everyday wear, while the short lugs make it a perfect fit for any wrist.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Limited Edition, with Grade 5 Titanium Case

The L.U.C 03.10-L movement was entirely developed and produced in Chopard Manufacture’s workshops and gave rise to four invention patents. The movement’s architecture is based on a construction reflecting the highest level of execution. At the heart of this mechanism, a column wheel precisely coordinates the functions of the chronograph, while a patented vertical coupling clutch ensures actuation that is light to the touch but utterly exact.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Limited Edition, with Grade 5 Titanium Case

The flyback function allows immediate reuse of the chronograph without the need to stop and reset. When the zero-reset pusher is pressed, however, the instantaneous movement of the counters and central sweep seconds hand is managed by patented progressive-contact hammers that guarantee optimal precision. Finally, a semi-instantaneous jumping minute counter ensures the precise display of chronograph minutes. All chronograph functions are highlighted on the dial by red details.

The patented perpetual calendar mechanism, crafted so that its displays integrate perfectly with the chronograph functions, is no less inventive. In particular, the high precision orbital moon phase, a showpiece of the dial design at 6 o’clock, is accurate to just a day’s deviation every 122 years.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Limited Edition, with Grade 5 Titanium Case

Testifying to its stature among the finest feats of Fine Watchmaking, the L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono timepiece is doubly certified as a “Chronometer” by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) – denoting superior performance for accuracy and reliability under varied conditions – as well as by the Poinçon de Genève, synonymous with the highest levels of hand finishing and aesthetic quality throughout the wristwatch.

The movement, exhibiting a multitude of opulent hand finishes across its complex plates and bridges, is visible through the watch’s display case-back.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Limited Edition, with Grade 5 Titanium Case

The elegant dial features a wide, twin-aperture instantaneous date display at 12 o’clock, with indications for the days of the week, the month, position in the leap year cycle and day/night display with a large orbital moon-phase at 6 o’clock. This highly complex but perfectly legible dial is a work of art in itself. The slate grey surface, created via a galvanic treatment on an 18-carat gold base, is decorated with a sunburst guilloché pattern.

With its subtle decoration, pared-back hour-markers and palette of soft greys with sporty bursts of red for the chronograph indications, the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono in grade 5 titanium offers a contemporary take on Fine Watchmaking in keeping with its lightweight casing.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Limited Edition, with Grade 5 Titanium Case

A grey strap in soft, nubuck calfskin further strengthens the sense of a Grand Complication watch that is understated and versatile, yet utterly distinct in its finesse and beauty.

The new L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is limited to 20 pieces only.

Technical details

Model: L.U.C Perpetual Chrono
Ref. 168611-3001 – in grade 5 titanium fitted with a grey nubuck calfskin strap
Numbered 20-piece limited edition

Case
Grade 5 titanium
Total diameter 45 mm
Thickness 15.06 mm
Water resistance 30 metres
Titanium crown with L.U.C logo 8.50 mm
Titanium pushers
Vertical satin-brushed case middle
Polished bezel and case-back
Exhibition case-back

Movement
Mechanical movement with manual winding L.U.C 03.10-L
Number of components 452
Total diameter 33.00 mm
Thickness 8.32 mm
Number of jewels 42
Frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve approx. 60 hours
Perpetual calendar – patented mechanism
Integrated column-wheel chronograph
Patented return-to-zero device with pivoting hammers and elastic arm
Patented chronograph seconds hand return-to-zero system
Patented vertical clutch device
Nickel silver mainplate and bridges
Côtes de Genève motif adorning the bridges
Balance-spring with flat terminal curve
Chronometer-certified (COSC)
Poinçon de Genève

Dial and hands
Black rhodium-toned and hand-guilloché solid gold dial, with beams radiating from the date – Snailed silver-toned inner bezel ring – Red and black transfers
Rhodium-plated hour-markers
Chronograph and perpetual calendar function counters obtained by black rhodium-based galvanic treatment and ruthenium-treated appliques
Snailed-finish day/night and leap-year counters obtained by black rhodium-based galvanic treatment
Rhodium-plated Dauphine fusée-type hours and minutes
Rhodium-plated Dauphine-type hands for the small seconds as well as the day and month calendar indications
Rhodium-plated triangular-shaped hands for the day/night and leap-year calendar indications
Rhodium-plated red-tipped Dauphine-type hands for the chronograph hours and minutes counters
Baton-type red-tipped sweep-seconds hand
Minutes track with white and red details

Functions and displays
Central display of the hours and minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock
Instantaneous large date at 12 o’clock
Days of the week displayed at 9 o’clock and months at 3 o’clock
Moon phases appearing in a rotating aperture at 6 o’clock
Off-centred day/night display at 10 o’clock and off-centred leap-year display at 2 o’clock
Vertical coupling-clutch chronograph with flyback function
12-hour counter at 9 o’clock
30-minute counter at 3 o’clock with semi-instantaneous minutes display
Stop-seconds function

Strap and clasp
Hand-sewn grey nubuck calfskin strap with nubuck lining and tone-on-tone stitching
Folding clasp in grade 5 titanium

Patek Philippe Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Yellow Gold Case and Silvery Opalescent Dial

A successor of Patek Philippe’s grand 1941 classic (Ref. 1518), the Ref. 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph has been available since 2018 in platinum with a golden opaline dial and a rose-gold version with a gold “goutte” style bracelet.

Now, the manufacture is extending its regular collection of this grand complication in a yellow gold version for the first time.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (With Yellow Gold Case and Silvery Opalescent Dial)

The silvery opaline dial with applied baton indexes and leaf-shaped hands in yellow gold assures excellent legibility. The displays of the perpetual calendar are tastefully balanced with an analog date at 6 o’clock and a double aperture for the day and month at 12 o’clock. They are complemented with two small round apertures for the day/night indicator and the leap year cycle as well as the typical moon-phase window.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (With Yellow Gold Case and Silvery Opalescent Dial)

The caliber CH 29-535 PS Q is the first chronograph movement with a perpetual calendar developed in 2011 and crafted entirely by Patek Philippe. It combines traditional architecture (horizontal clutch, column wheel and manual winder) with six patented innovations for the chronograph functions and stands out with its extremely thin calendar mechanism (1.65 mm for 182 parts).

Patek Philippe Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (With Yellow Gold Case and Silvery Opalescent Dial)

The movement can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back. A solid back in 18K yellow gold is part of the scope of delivery.

The new Ref. 5270J-001 is worn on a hand-stitched matt chocolate brown alligator strap with large square scales secured with a yellow-gold fold-over clasp. It joins the previous platinum and rose-gold models to accommodate the individual preferences of aficionados of Patek Philippe grand complications.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (With Yellow Gold Case and Silvery Opalescent Dial)

Technical details

Model: Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

Movement
Caliber CH 29-535 PS Q
Manually wound mechanical movement, chronograph with column wheel, chronograph hand, instantaneous 30-minute counter and subsidiary seconds
Perpetual calendar with day, month, leap-year cycle and day/night indication in apertures, analog date Moon phases
Diameter: 32 mm
Height: 7 mm (of which 1.65 mm for the perpetual calendar mechanism)
Number of parts: 456 (of which 182 for the perpetual calendar mechanism)
Number of jewels: 33
Power reserve: Min. 55 hours – max. 65 hours with chronograph stopped
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Breguet
Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Functions
Two-position crown:
• Pushed in: To wind the watch
• Pulled out: To set the time

Displays
Center hour and minute hands
Sweep chronograph hand

Subsidiary dials:
– 30-minute counter between 3 and 4 o’clock
– Subsidiary seconds between 8 and 9 o’clock
– Date at 6 o’clock

Aperture displays:
– Day and month, in-line at 12 o’clock
– Moon phase at 6 o’clock
– Day/night indication between 7 and 8 o’clock
– Leap year cycle between 4 and 5 o’clock

Correctors:
– Day of week between 10 and 11 o’clock
– Month between 12 and 1 o’clock
– Moon phase between 6 and 7 o’clock
– Date between 11 and 12 o’clock
Delivered with correction stylus in ebony and 18K yellow gold

Pushers:
– Chronograph start and stop at 2 o’clock
– Chronograph reset at 4 o’clock

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Patents
Optimized toothing profile (No. EP 1437633 – 2009)
Improved precision adjustment of mesh depth (No. EP 1947531 – 2009)
Improved synchronization of clutch brake (No. MPM/DF/15484 CH – 2009)
Piercing of minute-counter cam (No. MPM/DF/15483 CH – 2009)
Self-adjusting hammers (No. MPM/DF/15482 CH – 2009)
Hammers suspended between jewel bearings (No. MPM/DF/15481 CH – 2009)

Case
18K yellow gold
Sapphire-crystal case back and interchangeable solid back in 18K yellow gold
Water-resistant to 30 meters
Case dimensions: Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 12.4 mm
Width between lugs: 21 mm

Dial
Silvery opalescent
12 applied baton markers in 18K yellow gold
Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands in 18K yellow gold
Counterbalanced chronograph hand, arrow-shaped, Pfinodal, yellowgold plated and sandblasted
Subsidiary dials offset, pierced:
– Subsidiary seconds with baton hands in 18K yellow gold
– 30-minute counter with baton hand in 18K yellow gold, sandblasted
– Analog date with baton hand in 18K yellow gold

Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with large square scales, matt chocolate brown, with fold-over clasp in 18K yellow gold

Habring² Perpetual Doppel

Habring², an award winning haute-horlogerie brand founded by Maria and Richard Habring, presents Perpetual Doppel, a high complication mechanical watch equipped with a perpetual calendar and a monopusher split second chronograph.

In 2014, on the occasion of the brand’s 10th anniversary, Habring² developed its own in-house movement. In 2019 Habring² is celebrating its 15th anniversary and presents a brand new creation, the Perpetual Doppel.

Habring² Perpetual Doppel

Base model of this new creation is the winner of last year’s GPHG, the Doppel Felix, which is now literally being crowned with a perpetual calendar. To create the perpetual calendar + monopusher split second chronograph movement, Habring² has partnered with the well-known manufacturer, Dubois-Depraz, from the Vallé de Joux.

The Habring² Perpetual Doppel offers an excellent readability of date, day of the week, month with leap year display, and moon phase, in addition to the time display and an intermediate stop function with 30-minute counter. The stainless-steel case made of Austrian Böhler Steel nestles discreetly on the wrist despite its stately 43mm diameter.

The silver dial with its red-gilded Arabic numbers produced using the “par épargne” technology is classically subtle. Diamond-cut, red-gilded hands for the time display and additional hands made of blued steel for the stop function provide clarity and a good overview.

Habring² Perpetual Doppel

Despite manually wound, the future owner doesn’t need to be afraid of having to correct the perpetual calendar. A total of four hidden corrector devices ensure that the display is corrected in the shortest possible time if necessary.

The retail price of Habring² Perpetual Doppel is €21,500.

Technical details

Model: Habring² – Perpetual-Doppel

Movement
Habring² A11P
Diameter: 30 mm, height 8,7 mm
Indication of hours, minutes,
Indication of day, date, month, leap year and moon phase
Monopusher split second chronograph with 30 minute counter at 12h
28,800 half oscillations per hour (4Hz)
48h power reserve; manually wound
Fine adjustment via tangential screw
Amagnetic escapement with a Carl Haas balance spring in chronometer quality
KIF shockproof pursuant to DIN and NIHS
27 jewels
Power reserve after being fully wound: approx. 45 hours
Elaborately refined by hand with polished bevels, decorative grinding, perlage, etc.

Case
Stainless steel watchcase made of three parts with 43 mm diameter, 12 mm high
Water protected equivalent 30 meter depth
Domed sapphire crystal coated with anti-glare on both sides
Solid double sealed stainless steel crown, sapphire crystal back
Consecutive serial number between the lugs at 6h

Dial/hands
Silver galvanized metal with rose gold numerals and black/red print
Sunken register
Diamond cut rose Gold plated hands and blue steel hands

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon, White Gold Case with Pink Gold Dial

At SIHH 2019 in Geneva, A. Lange & Söhne unveiled a new Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon model (reference 740.056) featuring a white gold case with pink gold dial.

This watch incorporates a unique combination of a flyback chronograph, a perpetual calendar with moonphases, a tourbillon with stop seconds, and a power-reserve indicator.

A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON in Pink Gold Reference 740.056

The DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON was launched in 2016. The term DATOGRAPH refers to a flyback chronograph with a precisely jumping minute counter and the typical Lange outsize date. PERPETUAL stands for its perpetual calendar with precisely jumping displays combined with a moon-phase indication calculated to remain accurate for 122.6 years.

A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON in Pink Gold Reference 740.056

Finally, the TOURBILLON part alludes to the one-minute tourbillon with patented stop seconds that is visible on the caseback side; it eliminates the influence of gravity on the escapement inside its cage. The well organised arrangement of the time, calendar and chronograph displays is rounded off with a power-reserve indicator at the end of the tachymeter scale.

A first 100-watch edition in platinum with a black dial is now followed by a second edition of 100 watches in white gold with a pink-gold dial. The new hue enriches the deliberately reduced spectrum of A. Lange & Söhne with a warmer nuance that creates a pleasant contrast to the cool charisma of the 41.5-millimetre white-gold case and the rhodiumed gold hands and appliques.

A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON in Pink Gold Reference 740.056

The development of the DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON is powered by an impressive success story that began with the presentation of the first DATOGRAPH in 1999. Its rare combination of a classic column-wheel design, a precisely jumping minute counter and the flyback function attracted considerable attention. The clearly structured dial layout, in which the Lange outsize date and the two subsidiary dials form an equilateral triangle, gave it the status of a timeless icon.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon, White Gold Case with Pink Gold Dial

The DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON’s larger diameter made it possible to enlarge the subsidiary dials that accommodate the displays of the perpetual calendar. The subsidiary seconds, the day of the week and the day/night indicator are on the left side, while the precisely jumping minute counter, the months, and the leap-year indicator are on the right.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Movement Calibre L952.2

Three recessed correctors make it possible to adjust the moon phase, the day, and the month separately. A universal button at 10 o’clock advances all calendar displays collectively.

The sapphire-crystal caseback reveals the L952.2 manufacture calibre that consists of 729 parts. Finished manually down to the last detail, its complexity reflects the ambition of A. Lange & Söhne to continue to redefine the limits of mechanical watchmaking.

Technical details

Model: A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON in Pink Gold
Reference 740.056

Movement
Calibre L952.2

Functions
Hour and minute, small second, tourbillon with patented stop seconds, flyback chronograph with precisely jumping minute counter, tachometer scale, perpetual calendar with outsize date, day of the week, month, leap year, day/night indicator, moon-phase display, power reserve indicator.

Case
White gold
Diameter: 41.5 mm
Height: 14.6 mm

Dial
Solid pink gold
Hands: Blued steel, rhodiumed

Edition
Limited to 100 timepieces

Image Credit: Lange Uhren GmbH

IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Le Petit Prince” (Ref. IW392202)

Presented at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva in January 2019, the Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. IW392202), is characterised by a distinctive midnight blue dial dedicated to Antoine de Saint Exupéry’s “Le Petit Prince”.

IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Le Petit Prince” (Ref. IW392202)

In the Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. IW392202), IWC has combined a perpetual calendar with a chronograph for the first time in a pilot’s watch. 250 of these limited edition timepieces are available. This watch features an 18 carat red gold case with blue dial, 18 carat gold hands and brown calf leather strap.

IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Le Petit Prince” (Ref. IW392202)

The perpetual calendar developed by Kurt Klaus in the 1980s automatically detects the different number of days in the month as well as leap years. The mechanism, which is built from just 80 or so parts, will work until 2100 without needing to be adjusted.

The displays for date, day, month, moon phase and year are perfectly synchronised and can be easily adjusted via the crown if the watch is not worn for a prolonged period.

IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Le Petit Prince” (Ref. IW392202)

The IWC manufactured calibre 89630 also features a chronograph function. The moon phase display for the calendar is therefore integrated into the chronograph counter at “12 o’clock”.

Technical details

Model: IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Le Petit Prince” (Ref. IW392202)

Functions
Perpetual calendar with displays for the date, day, month, year in four digits and perpetual moon phase
Chronograph function for hours, minutes and seconds
Hour and minute counters combined in a counter (totaliser) at 12 o’clock
Flyback function
Screw-in crown
Small hacking seconds

Movement
IWC-manufactured calibre 89630
Mechanical chronograph movement
18 carat gold oscillating weight
Frequency: 28,800 vph / 4 Hz
Jewels: 51
Power reserve: 68 h
Winding: Automatic

Case, dial and strap
18 carat red gold case
Water-resistance 6 bar
Diameter 43 mm
Height 15.9 mm
Crystal Sapphire, arched edge, anti-reflective coating on both sides
See-through sapphire glass back
Blue dial, gold-plated hands
Brown calf leather strap

Edition
Limited to 250 watches

Franck Muller Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Bi-Retro

Perfectly combining ancestral tradition with technique, the Perpetual Calendar watch complication by Franck Muller displays day, date, month, leap years and the moon phase, and it needs no correction until the year 2100.

A multi-complication model in the Franck Muller’s Perpetual Calendars line, the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Bi-Retro watch features a perpetual calendar, a chronograph and many retrograde indications. Attention to detail and sense of perfection are perfectly demonstrated in these beautiful timepieces, thanks to their hand-crafted movements and breath-taking dial.

Franck Muller Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Bi-Retro

This large watchmaking complication is available in the Round Classics versions, the emblematic Cintrée Curvex™ and in the Long Island line.

 

Its sun-lacquered guilloché dial, a feature of the brand, is enhanced with directive numerals which have turned Franck Muller watches into instantly-recognisable timepieces.

Technical details

Model: Franck Muller Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Bi-Retro, Reference 9880 CC QP B

Case
18K rose gold
Width: 43.3 mm x Length : 60.5 mm x Height : 12.9 mm
Water resistant up to 30 meters

Functions
Hours, minutes, 24 hours, days of the week, months, year
Perpetual calendar with moon phases
2 positions winding-stem
4 correctors for the date, days, months, year and moon phases

Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement
Ø 25.6 mm x Height: 3.6 mm
21’600 vibrations/ hour
45 Hours Power Reserve
362 Components
Hand-engraved, Côtes de Genève, circular graining, hand chamfered

Dial
Sun-stamped translucent lacquered and black with Arabic numerals

Strap
Hand-sewn alligator

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication Watch – New Black and White Ceramic Models

Presented at SIHH 2018, the new 44mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication watch models feature ceramic push-pieces and crowns, push-piece guards, cases, and case-backs for a high tech metal look.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication Watch – New Black Ceramic Model

Black ceramic is reinforced with yttrium oxide, making it seven times harder than steel. White ceramic on the other hand is reinforced with aluminium oxide which gives it a high gloss finish and makes it even harder than black ceramic and nine times harder than steel.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication Watch – New White Ceramic Model

Equipped with the Manufacture Calibre 2885 automatic movement, the new Audemars Piguet grand complication watch incorporates Minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and split-seconds chronograph.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication Watch – New Black Ceramic Model

The new ceramic editions of the AP Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication watch come fitted with black or white rubber strap with titanium pin buckle.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication Watch – New White Ceramic ModelTechnical details

Model: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication

Movement
Self-winding Manufacture Calibre 2885
Total diameter 31.60mm (14 lignes)
Total thickness 8.55mm
Number of jewels 52
Number of parts 648
Minimal guaranteed power reserve 45h
Frequency of balance wheel 2.75Hz (=19,800 vibrations/hour)

Functions
Minute repeater, perpetual calendar, chronograph, split-seconds chronograph

Reference: 26582CB.OO.A010CA.01
– Case: White ceramic case, 44mm, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, white ceramic and titanium push-pieces and crown, white ceramic push-piece guards, water-resistant to 20m
– Dial: Sapphire dial, white counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands, silver-toned inner bezel
– Bracelet: White rubber strap with titanium pin buckle

Reference: 26582CE.OO.A002CA.01
– Case: Black ceramic case, 44mm, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, black ceramic and titanium push-pieces and crown, black ceramic push-piece guards, water-resistant to 20m
– Dial: Sapphire dial, black counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands, black inner bezel
– Bracelet: Black rubber strap with titanium pin buckle

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst

Prestigious luxury watch manufacture A. Lange & Söhne presents an exclusive hand-worked version of a Perpetual Calendar Watch from its iconic 1815 line of watches.

The dial and the hinged cuvette of the new 1815 RATTRAPANTE PERPETUAL CALENDAR HANDWERKSKUNST consist of blue enamelled white gold with elaborate relief engravings.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst

Ennobled with special decorative techniques, the movement stands out with the rare and fascinating combination of a split-seconds chronograph and a perpetual calendar with a Moonphase display.

Introduced in January 2013 at the Geneva Salon, the Lange 1815 RATTRAPANTE PERPETUAL CALENDAR attracted considerable attention from lovers of fine luxury watches from all over the world.

This watch is a technically and aesthetically convincing union of classic complications that rank among the most sophisticated mechanical ensembles in precision watchmaking. At the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in that same year, the watch was not only the winner in the Grand Complications category but also won the Public’s Choice Award.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst

This remarkable timekeeping instrument was the ideal starting point for a limited 20-watch HANDWERKSKUNST edition. It is the sixth A. Lange & Söhne model with this attribute that stands for the particularly artistic decoration of the movement, dial and case.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst

The 1815 RATTRAPANTE PERPETUAL CALENDAR HANDWERKSKUNST confronted the finishers, engravers and enamel artists with an exciting challenge: to raise the decorative opulence for which the manufactory is known to the next level with rare and in some cases revived techniques as well as innovative ideas. The hinged cuvette of the watch spotlights a relief engraving of Luna, the goddess of the moon in Roman mythology. She can be recognised by a gossamer veil, a crescent diadem and a torch.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst

This is the first model to combine enamel art and engraving on its dial. Solid white gold is the substrate for the deep-blue enamel beneath which the sculpted contours of the relief engraved stars appear to be a visual extension of the moon-phase display. The Arabic numerals are flush with the enamel and harmonise perfectly with the rhodiumed white gold hands of the time and calendar indications as well as of the power-reserve indicator.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst

The colour of the enamel is echoed by the lunar disc as well as the blued-steel minute counter hand. These elements contrast exquisitely with the four recessed subsidiary dials in argenté-coloured white gold.

The chronograph hand offers an especially distinctive colour accent: it is crafted from gold-plated steel. The dial is framed by an argenté coloured flange ring with a traditional railway-track minute scale.

The star motif of the dial is echoed by the movement decorations: in the tremblage and relief engravings on the rattrapante cock, the balance cock, the chronograph and switching lever bridges and on the cover plate. The surface of the wheel train in German silver has a delicately granular texture inspired by the movements of historic pocket watches.

Technical details

Model: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 RATTRAPANTE PERPETUAL CALENDAR HANDWERKSKUNST
Reference 421.048: White gold case with enamelled and hand-engraved white-gold dial in blue/argenté

Movement
Calibre L101.1
Number of movement parts: 631
Number of rubies: 43
Number of screwed gold chatons: 4
Power reserve: 42 hours when fully wound
Frequency: 21600 semi-oscillations per hour
Beat-adjustment system: Screw balance
Diameter: 32.6 mm
Height: 9.1 mm

Functions
Hands for hours and minutes with a small second hand and stop-seconds function, rattrapante chronograph with minutes counter, perpetual calendar with date, day, month, moon phase and leap year, up/down power reserve indicator, 42-hour power reserve.

Case
White gold
Diameter: 41.9 mm
Height: 15.8 mm
Hinged cuvette in blue-enamelled white gold with relief and tremblage engravings

Dial
Solid gold, enamelled, hand-engraved
Hands: Rhodiumed, pink gold, blued steel, white rhodiumed

Strap
Alligator leather strap

Edition
Limited to 20 timepieces
Available exclusively in A. Lange & Söhne boutiques

Image Credit: Lange Uhren GmbH

IWC Schaffhausen Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “50 Years Aquatimer” (REF. IW379403)

To mark the 50th anniversary of Aquatimer diver’s watches, IWC Schaffhausen has released a special edition with the first Ceratanium® case.

When diving with oxygen tanks began to gain popularity, IWC introduced the first Aquatimer in 1967. This diver’s watch, water-resistant up to 200 metres, had an internal rotating bezel for setting the dive time. IWC is now celebrating the 50th anniversary of the same watch family with the first watch case made of Ceratanium®

The IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “50 Years Aquatimer” (Ref. IW379403) is limited to just 50 pieces. Its most striking feature is the Ceratanium® case.

The material experts at IWC have been working on the development of this particular composite based on a titanium alloy for more than five years. The special manufacturing process gives the metal a black, ceramic-like surface. As a result, Ceratanium® is as light and unbreakable as titanium, but also as hard and scratch-resistant as ceramic.

IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “50 Years Aquatimer” (Ref. IW379403)

The material also scores well for its high skin tolerance and corrosion-resistance. The dial is black, and some components of the IWC-manufactured calibre 89802 have also been coloured black, such as the rotor of the self-winding system.

The technical features include a digital perpetual calendar. This displays the date and month in large numerals in the style of a digital watch, automatically recognising different month lengths and leap years. The chronograph with flyback function displays stop times, combined in a totalizer at “12 o’clock”.

IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “50 Years Aquatimer” (Ref. IW379403)

Like all Aquatimer models, this watch, which is water-resistant up to 10 bar, features an external/internal rotating bezel for setting the dive time.

The IWC SafeDive system ensures that the internal rotating bezel can only be adjusted when the external bezel is rotated in an anticlockwise direction. As a result, even if the external bezel is accidentally moved, zero hour – the time at which the diver can return to the surface without the need for decompression stops – cannot be exceeded. Thanks to the quick-change system, the black rubber strap can simply be replaced with another strap.

IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “50 Years Aquatimer” (Ref. IW379403)

The special-edition Aquatimer with a Ceratanium® case will be available in IWC boutiques from September 2017 at the price of CHF 50,000.

Technical details

Model: IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “50 Years Aquatimer”, Ref. IW379403

Functions
Perpetual calendar
Large double-digit displays for both the date and month
Stopwatch function with hours, minutes and seconds
Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock
Flyback function
Small hacking seconds

Movement
IWC-manufactured calibre 89802 Mechanical chronograph movement
Frequency: 28,800 A/h | 4 Hz
Jewels: 51
Power reserve: 68 h
Winding: Automatic

Case
Ceratanium® case
Diameter: 49 mm
Height: 19.5 mm
Glass: Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Screw-in crown
See-through sapphire-glass back
Water-resistant: 10 bar

Dial
Black dial, black and red hands
Mechanical external/ internal rotating bezel with IWC SafeDive system
Luminescent elements on hands, dial and internal rotating bezel

Strap
Black rubber strap
IWC bracelet quick-change system

Edition
Limited to 50 watches

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar in Platinum, References 5372P-001 & 5372P-010

Patek Philippe has created a totally new look for its famous split-seconds chronograph in platinum with a perpetual calendar.

Just like the 2015 Split-Seconds Chronograph Ref. 5370 model and the 2016 Ref. 5374, it comes in a round platinum case with a concave bezel as well as countersunk and satin-finished flanks.

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar, Reference 5372P-010

The dial in gold with a blue sunburst pattern or in vertically satin-finished rose gold also presents a subtly reworked appearance. It is a harmonious blend of sophisticated technology, elegance, and readability.

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5372P-010

Both models are equipped with the manual-wound Caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q movement. Both indicate: Month at 3H, Day of the week at 9H, Date at 6H, Leap year at 4.30H, Day/Night display at 7.30H and Moon-phase at 12H. They also offer the split second chronograph function.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar, Reference 5372P

Featured references

  • Ref. 5372P-001: Platinum case, Blue sunburst dial with gold applied numerals, Shiny chocolate brown alligator strap
  • Ref. 5372P-010: Platinum case, Rose gold, vertical satin-finished dial with blackened gold applied numerals, Shiny navy blue alligator strap

Movement
Manually wound mechanical movement
Caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q
Split-Seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar
Moon phases
Height: 7.3 mm
Jewels: 31
Bridges: 12
Parts: 476
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Power reserve: With the chronograph disengaged: min. 38 hours – max. 48 hours

Functions
Split-seconds mono-pusher chronograph
Perpetual calendar
60-minute counter
Day, Month, leap year and day/night indication in apertures
Date by hand
Moon phases
Seconds subdial

Case
Platinum
Case diameter: 38.3 mm
Water resistant to 30 m

Dial
Blue sunburst with gold applied numerals or rose gold, vertical satin-finished with blackened gold applied numerals
18K gold dial plate

Strap
Alligator strap with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny navy blue or shiny chocolate brown, fold-over clasp

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Platinum Limited Edition

The new L.U.C Perpetual Chrono by Chopard interprets the exclusivity of platinum combined with a hand-wound chronograph and a finely crafted perpetual calendar.

Endowed with one of the most sophisticated styles and constructions in the world of Haute Horlogerie, the 20-piece Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono limited edition is intended for modern gentlemen, connoisseurs and devotees of exceptional objects.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Platinum Limited Edition

Entirely developed and produced in the Chopard Haute Horlogerie workshops, L.U.C calibre 03.10-L is built around a column wheel that controls all chronograph operations including the flyback function.

Zero-resetting is done by means of progressive-contact hammers, a guarantee of precision. It ensures smooth yet firm activation of the timing-related components via a vertical coupling clutch. This was the exceptional base mechanism chosen to house the perpetual calendar of the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Platinum Limited Edition watch

This calendar is recognisable by its large twin-aperture date display, complemented by indications of the day, the month and the cycle of standard and leap years. The finishing touches are set by a day/night indication and an orbital moon-phase display. The latter guarantees graphic and accurate readings of the age of the moon, with a mere one-day deviation in 122 years.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Platinum Limited Edition

Since the original configuration of this calendar uses the same areas as the chronograph – both involving indications at 3 and 9 o’clock – the architecture of the perpetual calendar had to be adjusted to offset the day/night indicator by a few millimetres. This arrangement determined the specific layout of the dial and its counters, while optimising its legibility.

Chopard Platinum LUC Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

The Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono has earned double certification. The rating precision of its L.U.C Calibre 03.10-L has been certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). In parallel, each of these platinum watches – meaning both movements and cases – has successfully met the evaluation criteria of the Poinçon de Genève.

This distinction of excellence perpetuates the tradition of the Geneva master watchmakers and is a guarantee of superlative craftsmanship. Formerly attributed to the movement only, the Poinçon de Genève currently puts the watch as a whole to the test.

Chopard Perpetual Calendar Chronograph movement L.U.C 03.10-L calibre

The movement quality criteria are thus backed by other standards unreservedly met by Chopard. The water resistance, the precision, the chronograph and perpetual calendar functions, as well as the power reserve, are meticulously appraised before being awarded the famous quality hallmark. Chopard proudly belongs to the select circle of Haute Horlogerie brands demonstrating such exceptional artisanal savoir-faire.

Chopard Perpetual Calendar Chronograph movement L.U.C 03.10-L calibre

After a limited series in Fairmined gold launched in 2016, the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono appears in platinum this year. The 45 mm case crafted from this rare material is vertically satin-brushed on the sides and polished on the bezel as well as the lugs, thereby creating a textured finish that gives it even greater visual depth.

The dial of the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is in solid gold, adorned with a hand-guilloché motif that creates subtle light effects radiating from the large twin-aperture date display. A high-precision galvanic treatment endows it with its deep blue shade, the colour chosen by Chopard for its platinum limited series.

Chopard Platinum Perpetual Calendar watch with chronograph

The choice of noble materials extends right the way through to L.U.C calibre 03.10-L, which is made of nickel silver, a naturally light grey alloy that ideally lends itself to surface treatment but cannot tolerate scratches. Nickel silver is harder than brass, more resistant to oxidation and acquires a natural patina.

Any mistake made in executing the Côtes de Genève motif, circular-graining, satin-brushing and polishing operation omnipresent on the movement is irretrievable. This movement thus calls for the most expert hands exercising their craft in the watchmaking workshops of Chopard Manufacture.

Chopard Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Platinum

The strap of the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is made of hand-sewn large square-scaled vegetable-tanned alligator leather. Given that a L.U.C watch will be admired from every angle, Chopard has also made the lining in chestnut brown small square-scaled alligator leather.

Technical details

Model: Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono
Ref. 161973-9001 – in platinum
20-piece limited edition

Case
950 platinum
Total diameter: 45 mm
Thickness: 15.06 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
18ct white gold crown with L.U.C logo: 8.50 mm
18ct white gold pushers
Vertical satin-brushed case middle
Polished bezel and back
Exhibition back
Glareproofed sapphire crystal

Movement
Hand-wound movement L.U.C 03.10-L
Number of components: 452
Total diameter: 33.00 mm
Thickness: 8.32 mm
Number of jewels: 42
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours
Nickel silver mainplate and bridges
Côtes de Genève motif adorning the bridges
Chronometer-certified by the COSC
Poinçon de Genève

Dial
Solid gold dial with hand-guilloché pattern centred around the date, galvanic blue sunburst satin-brushed pattern centred around the date – snailed blue case middle – blue and white transfers
Rhodiumed Roman numerals and hour-markers
Rhodiumed Dauphine-type hands for the hours, minutes, small seconds, day and month counters
Baton-type rhodiumed red-tipped chronograph sweep-seconds hand
Minute track

Functions
Central display of the hours and minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock
Large date at 12 o’clock
Days of the week displayed at 9 o’clock and months at 3 o’clock
Orbital moon display at 6 o’clock
Offset day/night display at 10 o’clock and offset leap-year indication at 2 o’clock
Vertical coupling-clutch chronograph with flyback function
12-hour counter at 9 o’clock
30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
Time-setting with stop-seconds function

Strap
Hand-sewn matt blue alligator leather strap, brown alligator leather lining
Platinum pin buckle

IWC Schaffhausen Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. IW392101/IW392103)

Presented at SIHH 2017, the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. IW392101/IW392103) is the first model in IWC’s history to combine a chronograph from the 89000 calibre family with the perpetual calendar’s moon phase display in a subdial at “12 o’clock”.

To achieve this, both the moon and the shadow of the earth are depicted on a single disc and rotate beneath an aperture in the lower part of the subdial.

Together with the other three displays, this new function creates a harmonious unit on the dial of the 43-millimetre watch. The Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is available in two versions: 18-carat red gold and stainless steel.

IWC Schaffhausen Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph IW392101

While creating the 89630 calibre, IWC’s master watchmakers constantly referred back to the old design blueprints that were their source of inspiration. But there was a significant challenge, as the moon phase in the IWC-manufactured 52610 calibre normally used for the perpetual calendar is located at “12 o’clock”.

If the chronograph’s hour and minute counters were to be placed there, the hands would go straight through the centre of the moon phase disc. The 89360 chronograph calibre, on the other hand, had no room for a moon phase. As a result, the engineers designed the 89630 calibre, combining the dual counters of the chronograph with the moon phase mechanism and displaying them on a single sub-dial.

IWC Schaffhausen Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph IW392103

With its 43-millimetre case diameter and case height of 15.5 millimetres, the design of the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is impressive yet carefully balanced. The crown and the two push-buttons are cylindrical and no longer as round as those of the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar of 1985. Combined with the large lugs of the moving horns, they create an impression of overall harmony.

IWC Schaffhausen Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. IW392101

Despite the many displays, the dial remains clear and uncluttered because the designers chose dark blue as the colour for the chronograph moon phase totalizer at “12 o’clock”. This firmly distinguishes it from the dial and three subdials of the red gold version (Ref. IW392101) and the stainless-steel model (Ref. IW392103), which are silver plated and slate-coloured, respectively.

IWC Schaffhausen Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. IW392103)

The Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is the brand’s first watch to combine the hour and minute counters with the moon phase in a single subdial. Achieving this called for a development of the IWC-manufactured 89630 calibre. A silver-plated or gold-plated disc depicts the full moon in all its glory.

At the same time, the rounded, dark blue section of the disc – representing the earth’s shadow – rotates to show the waxing or waning moon. With white gold particles sprinkled across the dark blue background, the subdial has the appearance of a star-studded night sky.

IWC Schaffhausen Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. IW392101/IW392103)

In the red gold model, the case, horns, crown and pushbuttons are all made of solid 18-carat red gold. A gold folding clasp holds the dark brown alligator leather strap by Santoni. In the stainless-steel version with its black alligator leather strap, the slate-coloured counters are equipped with rhodium-plated facets that once again emphasize the circle as an important design element.

IWC Schaffhausen Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. IW392101/IW392103)

A glance through the transparent sapphire-glass back cover reveals the sophisticated design of the movement, which has blued screws, a red gold rotor and various types of decorative polishing on the bridges. The IWC-manufactured 89630 chronograph calibre with an automatic double-pawl winding system features a 68-hour power reserve.

In the chronograph part, the hour and minute counters are combined in a totalizer at “12 o’clock”, which enables stopped times to be read off as if they were the time of day. This is a significantly more elegant form of aggregate timing than two separate counters.

The blue central chronograph hand shows stopped times to an accuracy of one-eighth of a second. The chronograph has two push-buttons, which are used to start, stop and reset the hands, as well as for the flyback function. The movement itself is designed in such a way that the stopwatch can run continuously without diminishing the 68-hour power reserve.

The perpetual calendar works with the utmost precision: in 577.5 years, the display will diverge by just one day from the moon’s actual course. The perpetual calendar displays the date, month and day of the week on three subdials of the same colour at “3”, “6” and “9 o’clock”, respectively. A small window in the bottom left-hand section of the dial reveals the four-digit year display.

Mechanically programmed, the calendar takes into account the different length of the months and even the leap years. Nevertheless, every 100 years (2100, 2200, etc.) a leap day normally due is omitted, which means that a watchmaker will have to advance the calendar manually on 1 March. In 2300, another intervention will be necessary when the current century slide with the figures 20, 21 and 22 will need to be replaced with a new one for the years 2300 to 2599.

Technical details

Model: IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
References: IW392101 & IW392103

Functions
Perpetual calendar with displays for the date, day, month, four- digit year and perpetual moon phase
Stopwatch function with hours, minutes and seconds
Hour and minute counters combined in a single counter at “12 o’clock”
Flyback function
Small hacking seconds

Movement
IWC-manufactured calibre 89630
Mechanical chronograph movement
Frequency: 28,800 A/h | 4 Hz
Jewels: 51
Power reserve: 68 h
Winding: Automatic
Glucydur® beryllium alloy indexless balance with high-precision adjustment screws on balance rim
18-carat red gold rotor
See-through sapphire-glass back

Case, dial and strap

  • Ref. IW392101: 18-carat red gold case, silver-plated dial, dark brown alligator leather strap by Santoni, 18-carat red gold folding clasp
  • Ref. IW392103: Stainless-steel case, slate-coloured dial, black alligator leather strap by Santoni, stainless-steel folding clasp

Glass: Sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 15.5 mm

A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Perpetual “Pour le Mérite”

In 2017, the fifth masterpiece – TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL “Pour le Mérite” – joins in A. Lange & Söhne’s “Pour le Mérite” series.

Unveiled at SIHH 2017, this high end horology creation combines the fusée-and-chain transmission with a tourbillon, a chronograph, a rattrapante function and a perpetual calendar.

A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Perpetual “Pour le Mérite”

In October 1994, A. Lange & Söhne presented the first collection of the new era, including the legendary TOURBILLON “Pour le Mérite”, the first wristwatch with a tourbillon and a fusée-and-chain transmission.

It was followed in 2005 with a further model in which these two elaborate constructions were united: the TOURBOGRAPH “Pour le Mérite”. But there was more: a chronograph with the rattrapante function made it the manufactory’s most complicated watch at the time.

A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Perpetual “Pour le Mérite”

Now, the movement has been endowed with a fifth complication. In the development phase, the integration of a perpetual calendar in the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL “Pour le Mérite” presented the engineers of the Saxon manufactory with a formidable challenge: to orchestrate the interaction of the complex mechanisms in such a way that mechanical conflicts or unwanted energy losses could be prevented.

A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Perpetual “Pour le Mérite”

In this project, the perpetual calendar mechanism had to be built around the tourbillon. Consequently, only about two thirds of the movement surface were available, and this necessitated a redesign of the basic calibre. At the same time, the developers did not want to noticeably increase the height of the movement.

A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Perpetual “Pour le Mérite”

The TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL “Pour le Mérite” is the epitome of classic watchmaking: its hallmarks permeate all domains from design and engineering to consummate, flawless artisanship. The dial itself reflects the traditional approach in timekeeping.

A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Perpetual “Pour le Mérite” Platinum

Arabic numerals, a railway-track minute scale, blued steel hands for the time and rhodiumed gold hands for the calendar as well as the cloverleaf arrangement of the subsidiary dials pay tribute to the famous A. Lange & Söhne pocket watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Perpetual “Pour le Mérite”

Tradition also governs technical details such as column-wheel control for the chronograph and rattrapante mechanisms as well as the screw balance. Finally, it manifests itself in typical quality elements such as the two diamond endstones that suspend the tourbillon cage or the black-polished tourbillon bridge. The stately platinum case with a diameter of 43 millimetres is a fitting stage for this horological masterpiece.

Technical details

Model: A. Lange & Söhne TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL “Pour le Mérite”
Reference 706.025: Platinum version with solid silver argenté dial

Movement
Calibre L133.1
Diameter: 32 mm
Height: 10.9 mm
Power reserve: 36 hours when fully wound

Functions
Perpetual calendar, chronograph, rattrapante function, fusée-and-chain transmission and tourbillon

Case
Platinum
Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 16.6 mm

Dial
Solid silver, argenté-colored dial
Hands: Rhodiumed, blued steel, yellow gold, white gold

Strap
Black alligator leather strap with platinum buckle

Edition
Limited to 50 timepieces

Suggested retail price
490, 000 Euros

Image Credit: Lange Uhren GmbH

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar (5000T/000P-B048 – Platinum Case, Caliber1142 QP)

Vacheron Constantin launches a brand new, revisited version of its iconic Traditionnelle chronograph perpetual calendar. Dressed in a precious platinum case and equipped with the new Manufacture Vacheron Constantin Caliber 1142 QP, this Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece combines two key Fine Watchmaking complications: the chronograph and the perpetual calendar.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Platinum

The Traditionnelle collection’s distinctive design codes are reflected in each and every detail: the stepped case with a distinctive fluted pattern on the back, the dauphine-style hands and the railway-type minute track. A white tachymeter scale surrounding the dial accentuates the technical nature of the watch.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Platinum

Exemplifying a concern for legibility, the dial features various shades of grey with finishes that differ according to the functions, reflecting the layout of 1940s Vacheron Constantin chronographs. Standing out against a slate-coloured opaline base, the small seconds and chronograph minute counters are distinguished by a circular-brushed ring with snailed centre.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Platinum

Positioned in the centre of the date counter with a dark grey rim, the hand-finished moon disc 22K in white gold in provides a symbolic depiction of a moon face that is alternately smiling or melancholy, depending on the path of the Earth’s satellite.

Caliber 1142 QP, a state-of-the art movement entirely designed and developed within the Manufacture, replaces the previous 1141 QP.

Visible through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback, the new movement drives the perpetual calendar functions – with indications of the date, days, months, leap years and moon phases – as well as the chronograph functions with a direct-drive seconds hands and 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, positioned opposite the small seconds at 9 o’clock. This movement does not need any adjustments until March 1st 2100.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Platinum movement case back view

With the development of this new caliber, the Vacheron Constantin watchmakers and developers have been keenly attentive to the energy constraints relating to the chronograph functions, in order to minimise their impact on the 48-hour power reserve.

The oscillation frequency of the balance has also been raised from 2.5 to 3 Hz(21,600 vibrations/hour) so as to increase reliability and shock resistance. Like all Vacheron Constantin movements, this new caliber was developed and designed to meet the stringent Hallmark of Geneva criteria.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Platinum

The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle chronograph perpetual calendar is fitted with a hand stitched Mississippiensis alligator leather strap secured by a 950 platinum folding clasp.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar
Reference: 5000T/000P-B048
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Movement
Caliber1142 QP
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
27.5 mm (12’’’) diameter, 7.37 mm thick
Approximately 48 hours of power reserve
3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
324 components
21 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month, leap year indication
Moon phase
Column-wheel chronograph (30-minute counter) at 3 o’clock

Case
950 platinum
43 mm diameter, 12.94 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial
Slate-coloured, opaline, 22K white gold moon disc
White painted tachymeter scale
18K white gold hour-markers

Strap
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Clasp
950 platinum folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Presentation box
With watch winder

Accessory
Delivered with a corrector pen

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono New Model – “Fairmined” 18ct White Gold or Rose Gold Limited Edition

Dedicated to modern day watch connoisseurs, the new L.U.C Perpetual Chrono from Chopard combines a hand-wound chronograph and a finely crafted perpetual calendar within an unprecedented L.U.C movement, Calibre 3.10-L.

Issued in two series of 20 pieces in “Fairmined” 18-carat white gold and in “Fairmined” 18-carat rose gold, it is intended for watchmaking connoisseurs and devotees of exceptional objects.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in “Fairmined” White Gold

Entirely developed and produced in the Chopard Haute Horlogerie workshops, L.U.C Calibre 03.10-L is built around a column wheel that controls all chronograph operations including the flyback function.

The zero-reset system for the counters and the central sweep seconds hand is handled by progressive-contact hammers guaranteeing optimal precision. It ensures smooth yet firm activation of the timing-related components via a vertical coupling clutch. This was the exceptional base mechanism chosen to house the perpetual calendar of the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in “Fairmined” Rose Gold

This calendar is recognisable by its large twin-aperture date display, complemented by indications of the day and whether or not it is a leap year, while the finishing touches are set by a day/night indication and an orbital moon-phase display. The latter guarantees graphic and accurate readings of the age of the moon, with a mere one-day deviation in 122 years.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono “Fairmined” 18ct White Gold

Since the original configuration of this calendar uses the same areas as the chronograph – both involving indications at 3 and 9 o’clock – the architecture of the perpetual calendar had to be adjusted to offset the day/night indicator by a few millimetres. This arrangement determined the specific layout of the dial and its counters.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono “Fairmined” 18ct Rose Gold

The Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono has earned double certification. The rating precision of its L.U.C Calibre 03.10-L has been certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). In parallel, each of these 20 watches in “Fairmined” gold – including both their movements and their cases – has successfully met the evaluation criteria of the Poinçon de Genève, which now encompass the watch in its entirety, providing an excellent guarantee of superlative craftsmanship and expertise.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in “Fairmined” White Gold

The L.U.C Perpetual Chrono stems from high standards embodied in exceptional materials effectively underpinning its elegance and functionality.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in “Fairmined” Rose Gold

The 45 mm case of the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is entirely made of “Fairmined” 18-carat gold, sourced from Fairmined certified mining cooperatives in Columbia, Peru and Bolivia. The L.U.C Perpetual Chrono in white gold is the first L.U.C watch being produced out of 18-carat « Fairmined » white gold by Chopard.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in “Fairmined” White Gold

Chopard is in fact the first luxury watch and jewellery company to have committed itself to supporting mining communities in order to help them achieve Fairmined certification. It contributes to training, to social well-being and to environmental protection.

Fairmined certification ensures that gold is extracted in a responsible way by artisanal and small-scale mining organisations, that both miners and the environment are treated correctly and that purchasers pay a premium, in addition to the fixed gold price, to be reinvested in community projects.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in “Fairmined” Rose Gold

The dial of the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is coated with grey ruthenium. It is adorned with a hand-guilloché motif that creates subtle light effects radiating from the large twin-aperture date display.

The L.U.C Calibre 03.10-L is made of nickel silver, a naturally light grey alloy that ideally lends itself to surface treatment but cannot tolerate scratches. Any mistake made in executing the Côtes de Genève motif, circular-graining, satin-brushing and polishing operation omnipresent on the moment is irretrievable.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Calendar Chronograph movement L.U.C 03.10-L

This movement thus calls for the most expert hands exercising their craft in the watchmaking workshops of Chopard Manufacture.

The strap of the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is made of hand-sewn large-scaled vegetal tanned alligator leather. Given that a L.U.C watch will be admired from every angle, Chopard has also made the lining in chestnut brown small-scaled alligator leather.

Technical details

Model: Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono

References
Ref. 161973-1001 – in “Fairmined” 18ct White Gold, 20-Piece Limited Edition
Ref. 161973-5001 – in “Fairmined” 18ct Rose Gold, 20-Piece Limited Edition

Case
18ct “Fairmined” gold
Total diameter: 45 mm
Thickness: 15.06 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
18ct gold crown with L.U.C logo: 8.50 mm
Vertical satin-brushed case middle
Exhibition back with glare-proofed sapphire crystal

Movement
Hand-wound movement L.U.C 03.10-L
Total diameter: 33.00 mm
Thickness: 8.32 mm
Number of jewels: 42
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours
Nickel silver mainplate and bridges
Côtes de Genève motif adorning the bridges
Chronometer-certified by the COSC
Poinçon de Genève

Dial
Ruthenium-toned sunburst satin-brushed and hand-guilloché gold dial, with beams radiating from the date – Snailed silver-toned inner bezel ring – red and black transfers
Rhodiumed Roman numerals and hour-markers
Rhodiumed Dauphine-type hands for the hours, minutes, small seconds, day and month counters
Baton-type rhodiumed red-tipped sweep-seconds hand
Minute track

Functions
Central display of the hours and minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock
Large date at 12 o’clock
Days of the week displayed at 9 o’clock and months at 3 o’clock
Off-set day/night display at 10 o’clock and offset leap-year indication at 2 o’clock
Orbital moon display at 6 o’clock
Vertical coupling-clutch chronograph with flyback function
12-hour counter at 9 o’clock
30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
Time-setting with stop-seconds function

Strap
Hand-sewn double-sided alligator leather strap dyed with plant-based pigments (CITES certified)
Pin buckle in “Fairmined” 18 ct gold

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon

This new high-horology masterpiece from venerable German watch manufactory A. Lange & Söhne pairs Chronograph, Perpetual Calendar and Tourbillon – with five supplementary functions.

Limited to 100 pieces, this grand complication watch in platinum is not only technically impressive, but also stands out with a superbly organised face despite the density of information it displays.

The black solid-silver dial of the new model contrasts beautifully against the 41.5mm platinum case as well as the hands and hour markers in rhodiumed gold.

A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON in Platinum

DATOGRAPH designates a column-wheel chronograph with a precisely jumping minute counter, a flyback function and the typical Lange outsize date. To master the challenge of precise short time measurements, the product developers relied on an ingenious feature that had already proven itself in the DATOGRAPH UP/DOWN.

It distils three major technical advances in chronograph design into one: the column-wheel mechanism assures that all chronograph functions are reliably controlled. The jumping minute counter crisply displays the stopped times. And the flyback function allows the duration of consecutive events to be measured with extremely short reaction times.

A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON in Platinum

This grand complication timepiece also accommodates an instantaneously jumping perpetual calendar with a moon-phase display. All indications of the perpetual calendar –including the outsize date as well as the day-of-week, month and leap-year displays in subsidiary dials – switch instantaneously and thus provide unambiguous readings at all times. A first correction of the mechanism by one day can wait until the first day of March in the secular year 2100.

A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON in Platinum

Thanks to the stunning precision of the mechanical module, the moon-phase display will only deviate from the true lunation by a single day after 122.6 years. Three correctors allow the separate adjustment of the moon-phase display, the day of the week and the combined advance of the month and leap-year indications. After a standstill of merely a few days, the rapid-correction pusher at ten o’clock can be used to conveniently update all displays at the same time.

A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON in Platinum

The fascinating tourbillon mechanism is exposed by the sapphire-crystal caseback and the open tourbillon bridge. There, the escapement rotates about its own axis once a minute inside the filigreed cage. This rotary motion offsets the influence of gravity on the balance wheel with eccentric poising weights.

A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON in Platinum

In conjunction with the free-sprung balance spring crafted in-house, it assures excellent rate accuracy across the entire 50-hour power reserve. The power-reserve indicator integrated at the end of the tachymeter scale reminds the owner when it is time to rewind the watch.

A. Lange & Söhne Calibre L952.2

For the first time in a Lange tourbillon with chronograph, the balance beats at a rate of 18,000 instead of the conventional 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour. This corresponds to a frequency of 2.5 hertz. Consequently, stopped times can be displayed with an accuracy of one-fifth of a second. The patented stop-seconds mechanism instantaneously brings the balance wheel inside the tourbillon cage to a standstill when the crown is pulled. This allows the watch to be set with one-second accuracy.

Technical details

Model: A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON in Platinum
Reference 740.036

Movement
Calibre L952.2
Manually wound movement
Number of movement parts: 729
Power reserve: 50 hours

Functions
Hour and minute
Small seconds
Tourbillon with patented stop seconds
Flyback chronograph with precisely jumping minute counter
Tachometer scale
Perpetual calendar with outsize date, day of the week, month, leap year, day/night indicator, moon-phase display
Power reserve indicator

Case
Material: Platinum
Diameter: 41.5 mm
Height: 14.6 mm
Water resistance: 3 bar

Dial
Solid silver, black rhodié dial
Hands: rhodiumed

Edition
Limited to 100 timepieces

Image Credit: Lange Uhren GmbH

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260

Prestigious Swiss watch manufacture Vacheron Constantin presents horological masterpiece Atelier Cabinotiers reference 57260, the most complicated watch ever made. It took eight years by a team of three highly talented master watch makers from the manufacture to conceive this horological marvel.

The reference 57260 that boasts two dials and features 57 complications, several of which are entirely new and unique. In the reference number 57260, first two digits indicate the number of complications incorporated in this watch and last three digits reminds us the 260th anniversary of Vacheron Constantin (1755 -2015).

The reference 57260 incorporates significant number of ingenious and important new mechanisms that have never been seen before in horology. Made of solid gold (18 carat white gold), polished with glazed bezels on each side, the elegant and well proportioned case has a three position winding crown with corresponding indication window on the case band to show the position of the crown during winding or setting.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260

A coaxial button in the crown controls the start/stop and return to zero functions of the double retrograde chronograph and the push button in the case band at 11’o clock activates and restarts the rattrapante chronograph function. You can also notice a totally un -obstructive and new design of the concealed flush fit alarm winding crown located in the case band at the 4’o clock position.

Both dials are made of soiled silver, while the rotating discs for the displays are made of aluminium which is light weight. The meantime dial is of regulator style, displaying the hours, minutes, and seconds on separate chapter rings. The first displays some world premier horological functions developed by the Vacheron Constantin watchmakers and seen for the first time ever in this watch.

Vacheron Constantin Reference 57260 – First Dial

The Hebraic perpetual calendar

Of the utmost technical and mathematical complexity, the Hebraic perpetual calendar truly is considered to be one of the greatest contributions to traditional watchmaking of recent times.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260 first dial

Due to the long term changing cycles of the Hebraic calendar and its difference to the Gregorian calendar, the making of a complete functioning mechanical Hebraic perpetual calendar in a watch has been impossible until now. Highly complicated mathematical calculations combining both the lunar months and solar year were transcribed into not only an operational mechanism but a display that is elegant, logical and easy to read.

The Hebraic perpetual calendar works on the principle of the 19 year Metonic cycle because 19 years it is almost exactly a multiple of the solar year and lunar month over that period. On this watch the Metonic cycle is displayed as a sector a 3’o clock concentric with the chronograph hour register.

The sacred date of Yom Kippur indicated in the Gregorian calendar each year, is represented by the corresponding retrograde hand at 6’o clock, which returns to its starting point every 19 years, at which time the sector is replaced for another for each of the 19 year cycles.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260 Leap Year

To keep the 12 month lunar year in pace with the solar year, a 13th leap month called an intercalary month has to be added seven times during the 19 year cycle. Ingeniously the watch not only allows for this addition but also show the user whether the current year is a 12 or 13-month year via an indicator hand and 12/13 display situated concentric with the chronograph minute register and counter hand in the 9’o clock position.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260 Jewish calendar lunar phase

In the Hebrew calendar, there are fixed lunar months of 29 or 30 days alternately. Those of Cheshvan and Kislev can have 29 or 30 days, depending on the year, here, the self correcting date hand is concentric to the Yom Kippur sector and constant seconds. On either side of the date, two windows indicate the number of days and months in Hebrew.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260 Jewish calendar

The secular Hebrew calendar, which is displayed in a four digit window below the Yom Kippur sector, is calculated from the supposed date to the creation of the world in 3760 BC. To calculate the present year in the Hebrew calendar 2015 is added to 3760 giving the year 5775. The Jewish New Year begins again in September 2015 with therefore the Hebrew year 5776. Tishrei is the first month of the Hebrew calendar.

Within the centre of the hour chapter ring are four representations of the moon phases and also a hand indicating the age of the moon within its 29. 5305882 day cycle. The Vacheron Constantin moon phase system requires correction only once every 1027 years.

Double Retrograde Rattrapante Chronograph

Featuring a totally innovative design and construction, the Vacheron Constantin retrograde rattrapante chronograph is completely new to the world of watch making. This is the first watch ever to be made with a rattrapante chronograph with double retrograde function.

This ingenious chronograph is read by the user exactly in the manner of a classic split seconds chronograph; uniquely however, whilst both hands still work in unison and from the same axis, unlike all other split seconds chronographs, the two hands never actually meet but operate on two separate scales on opposing sides of the dial. In this respect, the new chronograph can perhaps be the best described as a detached split seconds chronograph.

Double Retrograde Rattrapante Chronograph

To create this function, a new chronograph mechanism has been invented and made entirely in house at Vacheron Constantin especially for this timepiece.

Further, it has been necessary to specially design and make the two long and very fine chronograph hands so that chronograph has perfect stability and extreme accuracy during operation. There are two register dials for the chronograph counting each elapsed minute up to 60 minutes and each elapsed hour up to 12 hours so that events up to 12 hours in duration can be accurately recorded.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260 Movement Calibre 3750
Vacheron Constantin Calibre 3750 – First Dial Side

The Westminster Chiming, Alarm and Night Silence Feature

Sectors can be seen on the dial to either side of the hour chapter ring, just above the chronograph registers. These sectors with their corresponding hands are indicators for the selection of the mode of chiming, mode of alarm striking and the alarm power reserve indicator.

This watch offers 3 possible striking modes:

  • Striking: The watch chimes automatically at each passing quarter hour, in the same way as a clock. With five hammers striking five finely tuned steel gongs, the chiming sequence is that of Big Ben, the clock of the Palace of Westminster in London.
  • Night silence: Chiming automatically disables from 22h to 8h
  • Silence: Chiming switched off when it is not desired.

There are two additional options to choose from; Grand sonnerie(striking the hours and the quarters at ever passing quarter) and alternatively petite sonnerie(striking the full hours at the hour but only a quarter strike without hours on the quarters). To repeat the chiming at any time, the slide on the band of the case can be activated whenever it is desired by the user.

Night time silence : A unique and very user friendly new feature has been developed especially for the chiming system of this watch, that of the automatically activated Night Time Silence Mode. A special mechanism has been developed by Vacheron Constantin enables the watch for not chiming between the hours 22h-08h in order not to disturb its owner. This system is unique in being the first to be automatically activated without the need to manually set the chime or silence option.

Alarm: In addition to the chiming mechanism, this model houses an integrally connected alarm system with separate power reserve indication. This mechanism allows a choice between either a traditional alarm on an additional differently tuned single gong with single hammer or Westminster Carillion full chiming alarm in either Grande or Petite Sonnerie mode. The alarm is set via the winding crown which moves an additional alarm hand co-axial with the hour and moon’s age hand. The flush fit winding button is situated in the band of the case.

Vacheron Constantin Reference 57260 – Second Dial

As well as the astronomical indications, several unique and major systems developed especially for this watch are presented here including a 12 hour second time zone governed by a digital world time display, a double perpetual calendar and a remarkable fully visible armillary sphere tourbillon.

The blue star chart in the upper half of the dial represents the night sky and the star constellations visible from user’s home city, with the months appearing around the edge. Concentric around the outer border is the scale for the retrograde date of the perpetual calendar, the hand flying back to its start point at the end of each month. Subsidiary dials for the days of the week and the months flank the star dial and the aperture above the month dial shows the number of the year between 1 and 4 in the leap year cycle.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260 second dial

Around the edge of the dial are three astronomic scales which are read using the central gold hand identified by its sun counterpoise. The outermost scale for the year divided into zodiac sign periods additionally indicates the dates of Vernal and Autumnal Equinoxes and the summer and winter solstices. The interrelated four seasons are displayed on a further inner concentric ring.

The sector above the tourbillon aperture indicates equation of time showing the discrepancy between true solar time and standard meantime which fluctuates during the year but can be ahead by as much as 16 minutes (around November 3rd) and behind by 14 minutes (around February 12th). Solar and meantime are equal on just for occasions each year. Flanking the tourbillon aperture are two dual sectors for the time of sunrise and day length and time of sunset and night length in the user’s home city. These indications are calculated from the hours of light and darkness and not strictly set times.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260

Another world premier feature is the 12 hour second time zone dial with separates day and night indicator window located in the 10th clock position; the second time zone is used in conjunction with the digitally displayed world time function which gives a choice of 24 cities and countries and their respective time deviations from Greenwich Meantime.

This thoroughly new and discreet 12 hour system of world time mechanism and display is the first new system to be developed since Louis Cottier’s well known world time system with 24 hour indication invented about 1935 and is therefore of major significance.

The Dual Function Perpetual Calendar

The perpetual calendar systems invented and built by the watch makers of Vacheron Constantin are amongst the greatest achievements made during the construction of this watch. They represent Vacheron Constantin’s supreme mastery of both highly complex mathematical calculations and the ability of their watch making team to translate the calculations into mechanisms functioning in complete harmony in relation to the myriad other functions.

Including the Hebraic perpetual calendar seen on the other dial, this watch has the ability to provide three entirely different perpetual calendar readings. The fundamental new departure is that two possible options are available for the reading of the Gregorian perpetual calendar displayed on this dial: either the traditional Gregorian calendar or the business calendar system known as ISO 8601, a numerical system which utilises 52 weeks and 7 days.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260 perpetual calendar

The Gregorian perpetual calendar which automatically corrects itself for the appropriate number of days in the month and the leap years can be read on the dial using the retrograde date, the days of the week and months dials, with the leap year window displaying a number between 1 and 4 located to the right side of the retrograde date sector.

The ISO 8601 business calendar is a specific system founded by the International Organisation for Standardization and used mainly in international financial sector.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260 business calendar

The purpose of this standard is to provide an unambiguous method of representing dates and times, so as to avoid misinterpretation of numeric representations of dates and times, particularly when data are transferred between countries with different conventions for writing numeric dates and times. When times are also required under the ISO system, they are given using the 24 hour system and with time zone information where necessary. Both these functions are also present on this dial.

When the ISO 8601 mode is employed, the number of the week within the year and the number of the day within the week takes precedence over the traditional calendar month and traditional date, the number of the week is read from the dial concentric to the month indication and the number of the day within the week is indicated by a number between 1 (for Monday) and 7 (for Sunday) in a window directly above the week dial.

The ISO system has a full cycle of 400 years and employs a seven day cycle with weeks starting on a Monday. However, an ISO year can have either 52 or in some cases 53 full weeks when New Year’s Day falls on a Thursday (Wednesday or Thursday in leap years): this occurs every 5 or 6 years. In the ISO system, week 1 is the one which contains the first Thursday of the year and always contains the January 4th.

The last week of the year in the ISO calendar is the one that contains the last Thursday and always includes December 28th. This system requires the user to adopt a different way of interpretation, for example: if the calendar is displaying Thursday, September 17th, the ISO calendar will read as day 4 in the day aperture and W 38 on the week dial.

Another option in the mechanism of this ingenious system is that it can be switched from ISO mode to traditional calendar year model. A calendar year is the period beginning January 1 and ending on December 31. Its programming mode will therefore also on 1 January of the year put the number of days of the week in synchronization with the first day of the calendar year. If the annual calendar displays the first day of the year on Thursday, January 1, the calendar will display w1 on the week dial and 1 in the day window.

The Armillary Sphere Tourbillon

The mesmerising armillary tourbillon cage containing the watch’s escapement is visible through the aperture beneath the sky chart. This supremely elegant mechanism displays a three dimensional constantly rotating sphere moving with the utmost delicacy simultaneously in three directions. Appropriately, the watch maker has also chosen to use a spherical balance spring which not only adds to the elegance of the mechanism, its special properties contribute to the accuracy of the watch.

This tourbillon was named armillary because visually it is reminiscent of the circles and rings of the scientific instrument known as the armillary sphere. It was placed in the second dial side complementing the astronomical functions to suggest the apparent movement of the stars, the sun and the ecliptic around the earth.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260 Armillary Sphere Tourbillon

The frame of the cage itself, made of ultra light aluminium and carrying the escapement and balance, is ingeniously constructed to incorporate the Vacheron Constant company symbol of Maltese Cross, once every 15 seconds during the tourbillon’s   rotation, the Maltese Cross becomes fully visible to the viewer.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260 Movement Calibre 3750
Vacheron Constantin Calibre 3750 – Second Dial Side

The armillary sphere tourbillon is a feat of high precision watch making. Made of the lightest of material, its purpose is to minimize the effects of gravity on the balance wheel, hair spring and pallet fork of the escapement.

The tourbillon is essentially a revolving platform and cage upon which the whole escapement is mounted that makes one full rotation in one minute. In this tourbillon, the escapement is rotated in three planes at once. the escapement has two further exceptional features: a spherical balance spring and diamond anchor plates.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Reference 57260

Reference: 57260/000G -B046
Hallmark of Geneva Certified timepiece

Movement
Calibre 3750
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical manual winding
72 mm (31”1/2) diameter, 36 mm thick
Approximately 60 hours of power reserve
Frequency: 2.5 Hz(18,000 vph)
More than 2800 components
242 jewels

Calibre plate
Plate 150: Chronograph
Plate 250: Gregorian perpetual calendar
Plate 350: Chronograph and Hebraic perpetual calendar
Plate 550: Astronomic calendar

Indications
Time functions (6)
Perpetual calendar functions: Gregorian and Hebraic (15)
Astronomic calendar functions (9)
Lunar calendar functions (1)
Religious calendar functions (1)
Chronograph (3 column wheels) functions (4)
Alarm functions (6)
Westminster Carillion striking functions (8)
Further functions (7)

Case
18k white gold
98 mm diameter, 50.55 mm thick
Not water resistant

Dials
Metal
Silvered opaline
Number of hands: front 19/back : 12

Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen and magnifying glass

Rarity
Unique piece crafted on demand
Total weight: 960 gm

A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL White Gold Version with Grey Dial, Reference 410.038

A. Lange & Söhne presents a new DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL watch featuring a white gold case and solid silver grey dial.

The A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH is one of the most admired mechanical chronographs ever produced. In 1999, the world’s first ever column-wheel chronograph with a flyback function, precisely jumping minute counter and outsize-date display caused quite a sensation in professional circles. It has long since achieved cult status. It is not only the technical finesse that is unique, but also the harmonious integration of function and aesthetics.

A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL White Gold Version with Grey Dial, Reference 410.038

Launched in 2006, DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL combines a flyback chronograph and a perpetual calendar, which will not require correction until 2100. If this does ever become necessary, however, the calendar indicators can be advanced either individually or synchronously.

A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL White Gold Version with Grey Dial, Reference 410.038

Lange’s passion for precision is also reflected by the universal corrector specially designed for this job: To prevent the indications from being inadvertently changed, the push piece at 10 o’clock can only be pressed when the crown is pulled out.

The argenté-coloured subsidiary dials and deep-blue moon disc on the new DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL white-gold model (reference 410.038) stand out particularly clearly thanks to the dial’s subtle grey background.

A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL White Gold Version with Grey Dial, Reference 410.038

The movement powering the A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL is the manual-wound L952.1 calibre with a power reserve of 36 hours.

Technical details

Model: A. Lange & Söhne DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL White Gold Version with Grey Dial, Reference 410.038

Movement
Lange manufacture calibre L952.1, manually wound
Number of movement parts: 556
Precision-adjusted in five positions
Lange-spring
Chronograph mechanism, flyback mechanism with precisely jumping minute counters, patented twin-disc mechanism for the display of the outsize date, calender mechanism with day of week, month, 4-year and leap-year display, stop seconds feature.
Plates and bridges made of untreated German silver, balance cock engraved by hand.
Diameter: 32.0 mm. Height: 8.0 mm.
Power reserve: 36 hours

Functions
Perpetual Calendar with out-size date, Moon-phase display, Chronograph, Day/night indicator

Case
18-carat white gold
Case diameter: 41 mm
Case thickness: 13.5 mm
Lug width: 20 mm
Sapphire glass
Case back: sapphire glass
Water resistance: 3 bar

Dial
Solid silver grey dial with rhodié sub-dials
Hands: Hour and minute hands in rhodiumed gold, luminous; day, month and four-year hands in rhodiumed gold; chronograph sweep seconds hand, subsidiary seconds hand and minute counter hand in blued steel

Strap
Black Alligator leather strap with 18-carat white gold buckle

Image Credit: Lange Uhren GmbH

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual White Gold Version with Grey Dial, Ref. 410.038

Unveiled at SIHH 2015, A. Lange & Söhne’s latest Datograph Perpetual model offers a stunning combination of chronograph and perpetual calendar with a noble white-gold/grey contrast.

The pairing of a solid white-gold case with a grey dial adds elegance and charisma to the iconic DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL timepiece, which has been a synonym for the ingenious combination of a fly-back chronograph and a perpetual calendar since 2006.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual with White Gold Case and Grey Dial, Ref. 410.038

With three highly elaborate, technically advanced mechanisms, it fully lives up to the task of precise short-time measurements: The column-wheel concept assures dependable control of all chronograph functions, the jumping minute counter always delivers distinct legibility of stopped times and the fly-back system makes it possible to accurately measure the durations of events in quick succession.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual with White Gold Case and Grey Dial, Ref. 410.038

With its Lange outsize date, day of week, month and leap year indications, the perpetual calendar is so precise that it requires no adjustment until the year 2100, when a one-day correction is needed.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual with White Gold Case and Grey Dial, Ref. 410.038

All calendar displays can be advanced simultaneously with a convenient rapid-correction pusher. Additionally, three recessed correctors allow the displays to be adjusted separately.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual with White Gold Case and Grey Dial, Ref. 410.038

The dark grey hue of the dial clearly emphasises the displays and prominently showcases the deep blue lunar disc with its golden stars. Baton hour markers as well as hour and minute hands in rhodiumed gold highlight the rich-contrast design that was first introduced with the 2010 launch of the Lange Pink Gold DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL version.

The chronograph hand indicates the stopped time to one-fifth of a second. It is made of blued steel. The same material was chosen for the minute counter and seconds hands, allowing them to stand out prominently against the bright rhodié background of the subsidiary dials.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual with White Gold Case and Grey Dial, Ref. 410.038

With its movement consisting of 556 lavishly finished parts, it delivers fresh proof of the Saxon manufactory’s virtuosity in the realm of horological complications.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual with White Gold Case and Grey Dial, Ref. 410.038

Beating at 18,000 v.p.h, the manual-wound Lange manufacture calibre L952.1 offers a power reserve of 36 hours when fully wound.

Technical details

Model: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual with White Gold Case and Grey Dial, Ref. 410.038

Movement
Lange manufacture calibre L952.1; manually wound, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards, decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; plates and bridges made of untreated German silver; balance cock engraved by hand
Diameter: 32.0 millimetres; height: 8.0 millimetres
Movement parts: 556
Bearing jewels: 45
Screwed gold chatons : 4
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator: Shock-resistant balance wheel with eccentric poising weights; balance spring manufactured in-house with a frequency of 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour, precision beat-adjustment system with lateral setscrew and whiplash spring
Power reserve: 36 hours when fully wound

Functions
Time indicated in hours, minutes and subsidiary seconds with stop seconds
Fly-back chronograph with precisely jumping minute counter
Tachymeter scale
Perpetual calendar with date, day of week, month, moon phases and leap year
Day/night indication

Operating elements
Crown for winding the watch and setting the time, two pushers for operating the chronograph, rapid-correction pusher for collectively advancing all calendar displays, one recessed corrector each for adjusting the day of the week, the month and the moon phases

Case 
White gold
Diameter: 41.0 millimetres; height: 13.5 millimetres
Crystal and back: Sapphire crystal (Mohs hardness 9)

Dial
Solid silver, grey; subsidiary dials rhodié
Hands: Hour and minute hands in rhodiumed gold, luminous; day, month and four-year hands in rhodiumed gold; chronograph sweep seconds hand, subsidiary seconds hand and minute counter hand in blued steel

Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather strap, black
Buckle: Lange prong buckle in white gold

Image Credit: Lange Uhren GmbH

Patek Philippe Reference 5004 in Titanium, Unique Piece for Only Watch 2013

Patek Philippe, one of the oldest and most revered Swiss watch manufacturing houses, unveils a special edition timepiece – the Reference 5004 in Titanium – for Only Watch 2013 Charity auction.

One of the great classics of the Patek Philippe Grand Complications collection between 1995 and 2011, Reference 5004 embodied the traditional, manually wound chronograph at its highest level.

Patek Philippe Reference 5004 in Titanium, Unique Piece for Only Watch 2013

Its Caliber CHR 27-70 Q is based on a “Nouvelle Lémania” movement produced exclusively for Patek Philippe and completely reworked in the company’s workshops, to which Patek Philippe’s engineers and master watchmakers have added a sophisticated split-seconds mechanism and a very fine perpetual calendar.

The movement comprises 407 parts, meticulously finished by hand according to the workshops’ time-honored methods. Over the years, this rare combination of complications was housed in a case of timeless, discreet elegance in white gold, yellow gold, platinum, and a limited series in steel.

Patek Philippe Reference 5004 in Titanium, Unique Piece for Only Watch 2013

This Only Watch 2013 special Reference 5004T is the first and only version ever produced in titanium.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Reference 5004 in Titanium, Unique Piece for Only Watch 2013

Movement
5004T Caliber CHR 27-70 Q, Manual winding
Split seconds chronograph with 30-minute counter
Perpetual calendar: day and month in apertures, date and leap year by hands
Moon phases and 24-hour display
Seconds sub-dial
Base of the chronograph movement “Nouvelle Lémania”, exclusive execution to Patek Philippe

Case, dial and strap
Case diameter: 36.7 mm.
Case material: Titanium
Interchangeable titanium full back and sapphire crystal case back
Water resistant to 30 m
Solid gold dial plate, black with hand-guilloché carbon pattern, gold applied numerals
White seconds hand, red split seconds hand
Calf leather strap embossed with a carbon pattern, red hand stitching
Titanium prong buckle

Franck Muller Perpetual Calendar Bi-Retro Chronograph Edition Cristiano Ronaldo

In 2012, Franck Muller created a special edition timepiece to honor Cristiano Ronaldo, one of the finest football players of all times.

The Perpetual Calendar Bi-Retro Chrono CR7 Limited edition watch features the signature Cintrée Curvex case made of 18-carat gold.

Franck Muller Perpetual Calendar Bi-Retro Chronograph Edition Cristiano Ronaldo

Equipped with a self-winding mechanical movement, this timepiece features bi-retrograde fly-back hands for days of the week and date. In addition, it also features two chronograph counters (30-minute at 3 o’ clock and 12 hour at 9 o’clock) and the moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock.

Cristiano Ronaldo’s favourite journey number is 7. To evoke this, the black lacquered dial features a diamond-encrusted 7 hour-marker.

Franck Muller Perpetual Calendar Bi-Retro Chronograph Edition Cristiano Ronaldo

The 18-carat gold case-back carries a special engraving of the player’s silhouette and signature. The brand created only seven Perpetual Calendar Bi-Retro Chronograph Edition Cristiano Ronaldo watches. All of them were sold to private collectors at an undisclosed price.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication 44mm

AUDEMARS PIGUET enhances the the ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE line by welcoming its first-ever exceptional Grande Complication movement.

The mechanical selfwinding heart of the Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication comprises three advanced functions, forming what is considered in the industry as the basis of a Grande Complication movement.

Its traditional mechanical selfwinding movement combines minute repeater, split-second chronograph and perpetual calendar functions. In concrete terms, in addition to showing legal or civil time, this  44 mm-diameter masculine watch is thus also equipped with a minute repeater mechanism, a rare complication enabling it to sound the hours, quarters and minutes on demand.

Moreover, it houses a perpetual calendar complication which, as its name implies, ensures a perpetual display of the calendar information as well as lunar cycles. Last but not least, it affords the possibility of performing timing operations and reading off intermediate or “split” times thanks to the split-second complication which has become an authentic Audemars Piguet signature in all the Grande Complication models that the Manufacture has produced since 1882.

This classic work of art, expressed in highly contemporary terms by Audemars Piguet, establishes itself as a synthesis of Haute Horlogerie. It is a material embodiment of the talent and the expertise of the finest watchmaking artisans exercising their craft in the Grandes Complications department of the Manufacture.

Epitomising incredible mastery of the watchmaking art, the 648 parts of the mechanical selfwinding Calibre 2885 are finished with meticulous care. The purpose of contemporary finishes such as sandblasting is to magnify the more traditional treatments such as bevelling and straight-graining.

To reveal the exceptional nature of the open-working or “skeletonising” performed by the watchmakers, the parts composing this beating heart are rendered partially visible by the use of a transparent sapphire crystal dial and the fitting of a display back. The latter notably reveals the solid gold oscillating weight featuring an anthracite coating which accentuates the overall contemporary touch that the watchmakers have decided to give this model.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication 44mm

Endowing such a purely traditional movement with a firmly future-oriented approach most definitely implies that in order to break the rules, you must first master them. The movement in fact represents a material expression of this abstract principle.

However, it is precisely the fact of adapting this Grande Complication movement to today’s world that lends this timepiece its truly iconic dimension. This is doubtless because, above and beyond mere words, this contemporary horological opus in titanium and ceramics, issued in a three-piece limited series, remains a creation individually executed by a single artisan who will devote more than 820 hours of painstaking craftsmanship to this task.

Finishes such as bevelling, recesses, sinks and sandblasting call for countless hours of fine craftsmanship and incredible dexterity, in a process amounting to around one-third of the price of the movement. Among the techniques used to make this movement visually appealing, bevelling is undoubtedly the most highly appreciated manual technique, as well as that which requires the greatest accuracy.

This exercise, which calls for years of experience, consists in using a file to cut down the edges of components and in polishing them with a slightly curved burnisher, so as to highlight the rim by enabling the light to play across the bevels.

These finishes serve historically functional purpose, by protecting the movement against dust and humidity, and thus any risk of oxidation. Nonetheless, these finishes and decorations will only effectively magnify the beauty of the mechanism if the technique involved in this art is fully mastered.

It is indeed a form of art fully mastered by Audemars Piguet and continually applied to our products. Functionality meets aesthetics in these infinitely delicate operations. This aesthetic treatment of the mechanism powerfully reveals this meticulous workmanship, executed to perfection at Audemars Piguet. Each part has been treated with infinite care.

Some components, such as the hammers of the minute repeater striking mechanism which are visible through the case-back, combine two finishes entailing highly complex execution : a mirror polish that is so fine that artisans even joke among themselves that “a glance is enough to scratch it” ; along with a bevelling featuring interior and external angles embodying the ultimate expression of the artist’s mastery.

These specific angles, which can be easily pinpointed in the mechanism, may be viewed as the secret signature of the artisan, and provide undeniable proof of the authenticity of a work performed by hand because no machine could possibly produce this type of finish.

This exceptional titanium watch, featuring a black ceramic bezel, crown and pushpieces, also comes in a pink gold version. In the latter configuration, this luxurious and sporty instrument rife with superlatives is issued in a three-piece edition only, complete with a white rubber strap, an 18-carat pink gold caseband topped by a black ceramic bezel, along with white ceramic pushers and crown.

Each detail of this modern timepiece demonstrates the extent to which the Audemars Piguet Manufacture masters its classics to perfection and is capable of lending an unmistakably modern touch to tradition.

Technical details

Model: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication 44mm

Movement
Calibre 2885, selfwinding
Total diameter: 31.60 mm (14 lines)
Movement thickness: 8.95 mm
Number of jewels: 52
Number of parts: 648
Minimum guaranteed power reserve: 45 hrs
Cadence of the balance : 19,800 vph

Cases
Ref.26571RO.OO.A010CA.01:  18K pink gold case (44 mm), glare-proofed sapphire crystal and case-back, black ceramic bezel, white ceramic crown and pushpieces, water-resistant to 20 m. 
Ref.26571IO.OO.A010CA.01: Titanium case (44 mm), glare-proofed sapphire crystal and case-back, black ceramic bezel, crown and pushpieces, water-resistant to 20 m.

Dials
Ref.26571RO.OO.A010CA.01:  Sapphire dial, white counters, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, light silver-toned inner bezel ring.
Ref.26571IO.OO.A010CA.01: Sapphire dial, white counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, light silver-toned inner bezel ring.

Functions
Minute repeater, perpetual calendar, split-second chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds.

Special features
Grande Complication movement entirely open-worked and assembled by hand
Column-wheel chronograph mechanism
Striking mechanism sounding on two gongs placed on the same level
Metallised sapphire moon-phase indicators
Customisable oscillating weight
Hand-finished cut-out parts (polished bevels, bead-blasted, matt surface underneath)
Hand-finished bridges (rounded-off and polished bevels, satin-brushed flanks, circular-grained recesses)

Straps
Ref.26571RO.OO.A010CA.01:White rubber strap with 18K pink gold pin buckle.
Ref.26571IO.OO.A010CA.01: Black rubber strap with titanium pin buckle.

Edition
26571RO.OO.A010CA.01: 3-piece limited edition
26571IO.OO.A010CA.01:3-piece limited edition

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar

The 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar by A. Lange & Söhne incorporates a multitude of complications, such as rattrapante chronograph, perpetual calendar, moon-phase display, and power-reserve indicator. This timepiece is equipped with the Lange manufacture calibre L101.1, the eighth chronograph calibre developed by the Saxon manufacture.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar

Since the presentation of the Datograph in 1999, the eminent Saxon manufactory had repeatedly raised the bar in the design of sophisticated chronographs with no fewer than seven proprietary calibres, including milestones such as the Double Split and the Tourbograph “Pour le Mérite”.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Platinum Reference 421.025

The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar belongs to the top league of chronographs, the so-called rattrapante or split-seconds chronographs.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Platinum Reference 421.025 case back

Visible through the sapphire-crystal caseback, the rattrapante function can be activated by the push piece at the 10 o’clock position. Stopping elapsed or lap times is handled precisely in the classic manner with two column wheels.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar 18K Pink gold Reference 421.032 -3

The central, superposed chronograph hand and rattrapante hand make it possible to measure any number of lap times within the course of a minute. The minute-counter and power-reserve displays are located at 12 o’clock.

The longer blued-steel hand indicates the count of stopped seconds. Conversely, the shorter golden hand in the inner circle tells the owner of the watch when the time has come to replenish the energy of the mainspring via the winding crown.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar movement Lange manufacture calibre L101.1
A. Lange & Söhne Calibre L101.1

Of the 631 individual parts of the newly developed manufacture calibre L101.1, more than 200 components are part of the perpetual calendar mechanism. It not only knows the durations of all months in the course of a calendar year but also indicates all leap years until the year 2100.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar

The paired calendar indications are positioned at 9 and 3 o’clock. The subsidiary dial on the left indicates the date and the day of the week, the one on the right the month and the leap year.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar 18K Pink gold Reference 421.032

The newly designed solid-gold lunar disc beneath the subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock emulates the synodic lunation so precisely that it only needs to be corrected by one day every 122 years.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar

Arabic numerals, a railway-track minute scale, gold and blued hands as well as four round subsidiary dials in a clover-leaf configuration characterise the design of the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar 18K Pink gold Reference 421.032 -3

It is the classic design mantra of the 1815 watch family that has its roots in A. Lange & Söhne’s grand pocket watch tradition. The prominent case in platinum or pink gold with a diameter of 41.9 millimetres rounds out the impressive personality of this horological masterpiece.

Technical details

Model: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar

Versions
Reference 421.025: Platinum case, Solid silver rhodié dial and Black crocodile strap
Reference 421.032: 18K Pink gold case, Solid silver, argenté dial and reddish-brown crocodile strap

Movement
Lange manufacture calibre L101.1, manually wound, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards, decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; plates and bridges made of untreated German silver; balance cock engraved by hand
Movement parts: 631
Jewels: 43
Screwed gold chatons: 4
Diameter: 32.6 millimetres
Height: 9.1 millimetres
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator: Shock-resistant screw balance, superior-quality balance spring manufactured in-house, frequency 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour, precision beat adjustment system with lateral setscrew and whiplash spring
Power reserve: 42 hours when fully wound

Functions
Time indicated in hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds; rattrapante chronograph with minute counter; perpetual calendar with date, day of week, month, moon phase and leap year; power-reserve indicator

Operating elements
Crown for winding the watch and setting the time; two chronograph push pieces, one push piece to operate the rattrapante mechanism; separate correction push pieces for adjusting the date, day, month, and moon phase

Case
Material: Platinum or 18K Pink gold
Diameter: 41.9 millimetres
Height: 14.7 millimetres
Crystal and caseback: Sapphire crystal (hardness 9)

Dial
Platinum version: Solid silver rhodié dial; hours, minutes, minute-counter and rattrapante hands in blued steel; chronograph seconds hand in gold-plated steel; other hands in rhodiumed gold
Pink gold version: solid silver argenté dial; minute-counter and rattrapante hands in blued steel; chronograph seconds hand in gold-plated steel, other hands in pink gold

Strap
Hand-stitched crocodile strap, black or reddish-brown
Buckle: Lange deployant buckle in platinum or pink gold

Image Credit: Lange Uhren GmbH