Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Platinum with a Salmon-Coloured Dial

Vacheron Constantin presents a new Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph timepiece with a platinum case with a salmon-coloured dial. This classically inspired combination is available in limited annual production exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques. This new high complication watch is powered by the in-house Calibre 1142 QP.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Platinum with a Salmon-Coloured Dial

As its name suggests, this watch embodies traditional watchmaking codes, notably including Dauphine-type hands, a railway-type minutes track and a stepped case with distinctive fluting on the back. The legibility of the functions – an essential characteristic of Vacheron Constantin watches – is carefully orchestrated between the chronograph and the perpetual calendar.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Platinum with a Salmon-Coloured Dial

Time indications are provided by white gold hands and hour-markers, while the chronograph and date functions are displayed by blued steel hands. The 30-minute chronograph counter and the small seconds counter appear in a perfectly balanced symmetrical arrangement.

The moon phases appear on a platinum disc at 6 o’clock, integrated within the pointer-type date display. The day, month and leap-year cycle are read off through apertures in the upper part of the dial.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Platinum with a Salmon-Coloured Dial

The technical nature of the model is further accentuated by the tachymeter scale around the periphery and serving to calculate the average speed over a distance of 1000 metres thanks to the positioning of the chronograph seconds hand.

In keeping with the Maison’s philosophy of sophisticated aesthetics ensuring that each component benefits from meticulous care enhancing the overall beauty of each model, meticulous attention has been lavished on the dial.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Platinum with a Salmon-Coloured Dial

Its opaline salmon-coloured small seconds and chronograph minute counters are distinguished by a circular satin- brushed ring with a finely snailed centre. The same snailed finish is featured on the circumference displaying the date numerals.

The platinum disc, bearing a moon that is alternately smiling and melancholy depending on the phase, has also been revisited in the spirit of 19th century table watches. The raised moons are polished and surrounded by stars against a frosted background.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Platinum with a Salmon-Coloured Dial

One final detail plays a particularly important role in accentuating the exclusive nature of this new interpretation: a relief and facetted version of Maison’s emblematic Maltese cross beneath the 12 o’clock hour-marker. Crafted in 18K 5N pink gold, it features facets on each arm that are sandblasted on one side and polished on the other, thus providing a new expression of the Vacheron Constantin symbol.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Platinum with a Salmon-Coloured Dial

This watch is equipped with manual-winding Calibre 1142 QP. This chronograph movement, complemented by a perpetual calendar, is one of the most highly prized historical calibres among collectors. It dates back to the 1940s and is notably distinguished by the sophisticated aesthetics of its architecture as well as by its reliability and precision enhanced by its column-wheel system.

This 324-component movement in its perpetual calendar version has been adapted over the decades, particularly to meet Hallmark of Geneva criteria, while its rate frequency has been modified to 3 Hz (21,600 vph) and its power reserve amounts to 48 hours.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Platinum with a Salmon-Coloured Dial

The movement finishing which can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback is the object of particular attention perfectly illustrating this year’s theme, with a circular-grained mainplate, Côtes de Genève motif on the bridges, hand-bevelled components and straight-grained flanks.

The watch comes with an alligator leather strap secured by a folding clasp in platinum.

The elegant design of this new Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph is entirely in keeping with Vacheron Constantin’s 2022 “The Anatomy of Beauty®” theme. This extraordinarily painstaking care is expressed through the designers’ aesthetic choices and preferences as well as in the meticulous finishing work performed by the artisans.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Reference: 5000T/000P-B975

Movement
Caliber 1142 QP
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
27.5 mm (12’’’) diameter, 7.37 mm thick
Approximately 48 hours of power reserve
3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
324 components
21 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month, leap year indication)
Moon phase
Column-wheel chronograph (30-minute counter at 3 o’clock)

Case
950 platinum
43 mm diameter, 12.94 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial
Salmon-coloured opaline
950 Platinum moon disc
18K white gold applied hour-markers and hour and minute hands
Blued steel chronograph and date hands
Black painted tachymeter scale

Strap
Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp: 950 platinum folding clasp; Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Accessory
Delivered with a corrector pen

Availability
Available exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques

Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011: Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar with Rose Gold Case and Slate Gray Dial

Patek Philippe has expanded the Grand Complications family by launching a new version of Reference 5204 Split-Seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar watch.

This multi-complication mechanical timepiece has been available since 2016 in two rose gold versions, one with a silvered opaline dial and chocolate brown alligator strap (reference 5204R-001), the other with an opaline ebony black dial and rose gold Goutte (droplet) bracelet – Reference 5204/1R.

Patek Philippe now presents a new variation with a rose gold case and a matching slate gray dial and strap.

Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011: Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar with Rose Gold Case and Slate Gray Dial
Image Credit: PATEK PHILIPPE SA

The entirely hand-polished and sophisticatedly styled rose gold case is equipped with a concave bezel and two-tier lugs.

Despite the complexity of the movement, the indications on the “sunburst” dial stand out for their perfect legibility. The day and month are displayed in two in-line apertures at 12 o’clock. The date hand at 6 o’clock incorporates the moon-phase aperture. Small seconds and the instantaneous 30-minute counter appear on two subdials at 9 and 3 o’clock.

Two small round apertures display the leap-year cycle between 4 and 5 o’clock and the day/night indication between 7 and 8 o’clock – functions enabling accurate adjustment of the calendar. Whether by day or night, reading the time is facilitated by the applied hour-markers and Dauphine-type hands in rose gold, all with luminescent coating.

Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011: Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar with Rose Gold Case and Slate Gray Dial
Image Credit: PATEK PHILIPPE SA

The transparent sapphire caseback offers the view the CHR 29-535 PS Q Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar Caliber. First introduced in 2012 on Reference 5204P-001, this meticulously finished manual-winding movement incorporates seven patented innovations, including six for the chronograph and one for the split-seconds mechanism.

The new Reference 5204R-011 is worn on a shiny slate gray calf leather strap with an embossed alligator pattern and a rose gold fold-over clasp. Available with interchangeable sapphire crystal and solid case-backs, it is joining the two existing versions in rose gold.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011: Split-seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar with Rose Gold Case and Slate Gray Dial

Case
18K rose gold case
Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 14.3 mm
Interchangeable solid and sapphire crystal case backs
Water-resistant to 30m

Movement
Manually wound mechanical movement. Caliber CHR 29‑535 PS Q
Diameter: 32 mm
Height: 8.7 mm
Number of parts: 496
Bridges: 12
Jewels: 34
Power reserve with the chronograph disengaged: min. 55 hours – max. 65 hours
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Breguet
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Functions
Split-Seconds chronograph
Instantaneous 30-minute counter
Perpetual calendar
Day, month, leap year and day/night indication displayed in apertures
Date indicated by hand
Moon phases
Small seconds

Dial
Slate gray sunburst, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating
18K gold dial plate

Strap
Calfskin, embossed alligator pattern, hand-stitched, shiny gray
Fold-over clasp

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Limited Edition, with Grade 5 Titanium Case

Swiss luxury watch brand Chopard presents a titanium version of its L.U.C Perpetual Chrono, the modern grand complication that combines chronograph and perpetual calendar functions.

Introduced five years ago, the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono houses the L.U.C 03.10-L movement, a veritable horological marvel notable for its integration of the most prestigious chronograph and perpetual calendar achievements. Carrying both “Chronometer certification” and the esteemed Poinçon de Genève, this masterpiece is now available with a lightweight grade 5 titanium case.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Limited Edition, with Grade 5 Titanium Case

One of very few titanium perpetual calendar chronographs on the market, the new L.U.C Perpetual Chrono timepiece presents an innovative alternative for collectors seeking options besides gold or platinum, while retaining the sense of precious rarity found in watchmaking at its most prestigious. Titanium’s lightweight nature ensures the 45-millimeter timepiece is an ergonomic and comfortable watch for everyday wear, while the short lugs make it a perfect fit for any wrist.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Limited Edition, with Grade 5 Titanium Case

The L.U.C 03.10-L movement was entirely developed and produced in Chopard Manufacture’s workshops and gave rise to four invention patents. The movement’s architecture is based on a construction reflecting the highest level of execution. At the heart of this mechanism, a column wheel precisely coordinates the functions of the chronograph, while a patented vertical coupling clutch ensures actuation that is light to the touch but utterly exact.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Limited Edition, with Grade 5 Titanium Case

The flyback function allows immediate reuse of the chronograph without the need to stop and reset. When the zero-reset pusher is pressed, however, the instantaneous movement of the counters and central sweep seconds hand is managed by patented progressive-contact hammers that guarantee optimal precision. Finally, a semi-instantaneous jumping minute counter ensures the precise display of chronograph minutes. All chronograph functions are highlighted on the dial by red details.

The patented perpetual calendar mechanism, crafted so that its displays integrate perfectly with the chronograph functions, is no less inventive. In particular, the high precision orbital moon phase, a showpiece of the dial design at 6 o’clock, is accurate to just a day’s deviation every 122 years.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Limited Edition, with Grade 5 Titanium Case

Testifying to its stature among the finest feats of Fine Watchmaking, the L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono timepiece is doubly certified as a “Chronometer” by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) – denoting superior performance for accuracy and reliability under varied conditions – as well as by the Poinçon de Genève, synonymous with the highest levels of hand finishing and aesthetic quality throughout the wristwatch.

The movement, exhibiting a multitude of opulent hand finishes across its complex plates and bridges, is visible through the watch’s display case-back.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Limited Edition, with Grade 5 Titanium Case

The elegant dial features a wide, twin-aperture instantaneous date display at 12 o’clock, with indications for the days of the week, the month, position in the leap year cycle and day/night display with a large orbital moon-phase at 6 o’clock. This highly complex but perfectly legible dial is a work of art in itself. The slate grey surface, created via a galvanic treatment on an 18-carat gold base, is decorated with a sunburst guilloché pattern.

With its subtle decoration, pared-back hour-markers and palette of soft greys with sporty bursts of red for the chronograph indications, the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono in grade 5 titanium offers a contemporary take on Fine Watchmaking in keeping with its lightweight casing.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Limited Edition, with Grade 5 Titanium Case

A grey strap in soft, nubuck calfskin further strengthens the sense of a Grand Complication watch that is understated and versatile, yet utterly distinct in its finesse and beauty.

The new L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is limited to 20 pieces only.

Technical details

Model: L.U.C Perpetual Chrono
Ref. 168611-3001 – in grade 5 titanium fitted with a grey nubuck calfskin strap
Numbered 20-piece limited edition

Case
Grade 5 titanium
Total diameter 45 mm
Thickness 15.06 mm
Water resistance 30 metres
Titanium crown with L.U.C logo 8.50 mm
Titanium pushers
Vertical satin-brushed case middle
Polished bezel and case-back
Exhibition case-back

Movement
Mechanical movement with manual winding L.U.C 03.10-L
Number of components 452
Total diameter 33.00 mm
Thickness 8.32 mm
Number of jewels 42
Frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve approx. 60 hours
Perpetual calendar – patented mechanism
Integrated column-wheel chronograph
Patented return-to-zero device with pivoting hammers and elastic arm
Patented chronograph seconds hand return-to-zero system
Patented vertical clutch device
Nickel silver mainplate and bridges
Côtes de Genève motif adorning the bridges
Balance-spring with flat terminal curve
Chronometer-certified (COSC)
Poinçon de Genève

Dial and hands
Black rhodium-toned and hand-guilloché solid gold dial, with beams radiating from the date – Snailed silver-toned inner bezel ring – Red and black transfers
Rhodium-plated hour-markers
Chronograph and perpetual calendar function counters obtained by black rhodium-based galvanic treatment and ruthenium-treated appliques
Snailed-finish day/night and leap-year counters obtained by black rhodium-based galvanic treatment
Rhodium-plated Dauphine fusée-type hours and minutes
Rhodium-plated Dauphine-type hands for the small seconds as well as the day and month calendar indications
Rhodium-plated triangular-shaped hands for the day/night and leap-year calendar indications
Rhodium-plated red-tipped Dauphine-type hands for the chronograph hours and minutes counters
Baton-type red-tipped sweep-seconds hand
Minutes track with white and red details

Functions and displays
Central display of the hours and minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock
Instantaneous large date at 12 o’clock
Days of the week displayed at 9 o’clock and months at 3 o’clock
Moon phases appearing in a rotating aperture at 6 o’clock
Off-centred day/night display at 10 o’clock and off-centred leap-year display at 2 o’clock
Vertical coupling-clutch chronograph with flyback function
12-hour counter at 9 o’clock
30-minute counter at 3 o’clock with semi-instantaneous minutes display
Stop-seconds function

Strap and clasp
Hand-sewn grey nubuck calfskin strap with nubuck lining and tone-on-tone stitching
Folding clasp in grade 5 titanium

Patek Philippe Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Yellow Gold Case and Silvery Opalescent Dial

A successor of Patek Philippe’s grand 1941 classic (Ref. 1518), the Ref. 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph has been available since 2018 in platinum with a golden opaline dial and a rose-gold version with a gold “goutte” style bracelet.

Now, the manufacture is extending its regular collection of this grand complication in a yellow gold version for the first time.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (With Yellow Gold Case and Silvery Opalescent Dial)

The silvery opaline dial with applied baton indexes and leaf-shaped hands in yellow gold assures excellent legibility. The displays of the perpetual calendar are tastefully balanced with an analog date at 6 o’clock and a double aperture for the day and month at 12 o’clock. They are complemented with two small round apertures for the day/night indicator and the leap year cycle as well as the typical moon-phase window.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (With Yellow Gold Case and Silvery Opalescent Dial)

The caliber CH 29-535 PS Q is the first chronograph movement with a perpetual calendar developed in 2011 and crafted entirely by Patek Philippe. It combines traditional architecture (horizontal clutch, column wheel and manual winder) with six patented innovations for the chronograph functions and stands out with its extremely thin calendar mechanism (1.65 mm for 182 parts).

Patek Philippe Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (With Yellow Gold Case and Silvery Opalescent Dial)

The movement can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back. A solid back in 18K yellow gold is part of the scope of delivery.

The new Ref. 5270J-001 is worn on a hand-stitched matt chocolate brown alligator strap with large square scales secured with a yellow-gold fold-over clasp. It joins the previous platinum and rose-gold models to accommodate the individual preferences of aficionados of Patek Philippe grand complications.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (With Yellow Gold Case and Silvery Opalescent Dial)

Technical details

Model: Ref. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

Movement
Caliber CH 29-535 PS Q
Manually wound mechanical movement, chronograph with column wheel, chronograph hand, instantaneous 30-minute counter and subsidiary seconds
Perpetual calendar with day, month, leap-year cycle and day/night indication in apertures, analog date Moon phases
Diameter: 32 mm
Height: 7 mm (of which 1.65 mm for the perpetual calendar mechanism)
Number of parts: 456 (of which 182 for the perpetual calendar mechanism)
Number of jewels: 33
Power reserve: Min. 55 hours – max. 65 hours with chronograph stopped
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Breguet
Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Functions
Two-position crown:
• Pushed in: To wind the watch
• Pulled out: To set the time

Displays
Center hour and minute hands
Sweep chronograph hand

Subsidiary dials:
– 30-minute counter between 3 and 4 o’clock
– Subsidiary seconds between 8 and 9 o’clock
– Date at 6 o’clock

Aperture displays:
– Day and month, in-line at 12 o’clock
– Moon phase at 6 o’clock
– Day/night indication between 7 and 8 o’clock
– Leap year cycle between 4 and 5 o’clock

Correctors:
– Day of week between 10 and 11 o’clock
– Month between 12 and 1 o’clock
– Moon phase between 6 and 7 o’clock
– Date between 11 and 12 o’clock
Delivered with correction stylus in ebony and 18K yellow gold

Pushers:
– Chronograph start and stop at 2 o’clock
– Chronograph reset at 4 o’clock

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Patents
Optimized toothing profile (No. EP 1437633 – 2009)
Improved precision adjustment of mesh depth (No. EP 1947531 – 2009)
Improved synchronization of clutch brake (No. MPM/DF/15484 CH – 2009)
Piercing of minute-counter cam (No. MPM/DF/15483 CH – 2009)
Self-adjusting hammers (No. MPM/DF/15482 CH – 2009)
Hammers suspended between jewel bearings (No. MPM/DF/15481 CH – 2009)

Case
18K yellow gold
Sapphire-crystal case back and interchangeable solid back in 18K yellow gold
Water-resistant to 30 meters
Case dimensions: Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 12.4 mm
Width between lugs: 21 mm

Dial
Silvery opalescent
12 applied baton markers in 18K yellow gold
Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands in 18K yellow gold
Counterbalanced chronograph hand, arrow-shaped, Pfinodal, yellowgold plated and sandblasted
Subsidiary dials offset, pierced:
– Subsidiary seconds with baton hands in 18K yellow gold
– 30-minute counter with baton hand in 18K yellow gold, sandblasted
– Analog date with baton hand in 18K yellow gold

Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with large square scales, matt chocolate brown, with fold-over clasp in 18K yellow gold

IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Le Petit Prince” (Ref. IW392202)

Presented at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva in January 2019, the Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. IW392202), is characterised by a distinctive midnight blue dial dedicated to Antoine de Saint Exupéry’s “Le Petit Prince”.

IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Le Petit Prince” (Ref. IW392202)

In the Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. IW392202), IWC has combined a perpetual calendar with a chronograph for the first time in a pilot’s watch. 250 of these limited edition timepieces are available. This watch features an 18 carat red gold case with blue dial, 18 carat gold hands and brown calf leather strap.

IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Le Petit Prince” (Ref. IW392202)

The perpetual calendar developed by Kurt Klaus in the 1980s automatically detects the different number of days in the month as well as leap years. The mechanism, which is built from just 80 or so parts, will work until 2100 without needing to be adjusted.

The displays for date, day, month, moon phase and year are perfectly synchronised and can be easily adjusted via the crown if the watch is not worn for a prolonged period.

IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Le Petit Prince” (Ref. IW392202)

The IWC manufactured calibre 89630 also features a chronograph function. The moon phase display for the calendar is therefore integrated into the chronograph counter at “12 o’clock”.

Technical details

Model: IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Le Petit Prince” (Ref. IW392202)

Functions
Perpetual calendar with displays for the date, day, month, year in four digits and perpetual moon phase
Chronograph function for hours, minutes and seconds
Hour and minute counters combined in a counter (totaliser) at 12 o’clock
Flyback function
Screw-in crown
Small hacking seconds

Movement
IWC-manufactured calibre 89630
Mechanical chronograph movement
18 carat gold oscillating weight
Frequency: 28,800 vph / 4 Hz
Jewels: 51
Power reserve: 68 h
Winding: Automatic

Case, dial and strap
18 carat red gold case
Water-resistance 6 bar
Diameter 43 mm
Height 15.9 mm
Crystal Sapphire, arched edge, anti-reflective coating on both sides
See-through sapphire glass back
Blue dial, gold-plated hands
Brown calf leather strap

Edition
Limited to 250 watches

Franck Muller Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Bi-Retro

Perfectly combining ancestral tradition with technique, the Perpetual Calendar watch complication by Franck Muller displays day, date, month, leap years and the moon phase, and it needs no correction until the year 2100.

A multi-complication model in the Franck Muller’s Perpetual Calendars line, the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Bi-Retro watch features a perpetual calendar, a chronograph and many retrograde indications. Attention to detail and sense of perfection are perfectly demonstrated in these beautiful timepieces, thanks to their hand-crafted movements and breath-taking dial.

Franck Muller Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Bi-Retro

This large watchmaking complication is available in the Round Classics versions, the emblematic Cintrée Curvex™ and in the Long Island line.

 

Its sun-lacquered guilloché dial, a feature of the brand, is enhanced with directive numerals which have turned Franck Muller watches into instantly-recognisable timepieces.

Technical details

Model: Franck Muller Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Bi-Retro, Reference 9880 CC QP B

Case
18K rose gold
Width: 43.3 mm x Length : 60.5 mm x Height : 12.9 mm
Water resistant up to 30 meters

Functions
Hours, minutes, 24 hours, days of the week, months, year
Perpetual calendar with moon phases
2 positions winding-stem
4 correctors for the date, days, months, year and moon phases

Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement
Ø 25.6 mm x Height: 3.6 mm
21’600 vibrations/ hour
45 Hours Power Reserve
362 Components
Hand-engraved, Côtes de Genève, circular graining, hand chamfered

Dial
Sun-stamped translucent lacquered and black with Arabic numerals

Strap
Hand-sewn alligator

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication Watch – New Black and White Ceramic Models

Presented at SIHH 2018, the new 44mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication watch models feature ceramic push-pieces and crowns, push-piece guards, cases, and case-backs for a high tech metal look.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication Watch – New Black Ceramic Model

Black ceramic is reinforced with yttrium oxide, making it seven times harder than steel. White ceramic on the other hand is reinforced with aluminium oxide which gives it a high gloss finish and makes it even harder than black ceramic and nine times harder than steel.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication Watch – New White Ceramic Model

Equipped with the Manufacture Calibre 2885 automatic movement, the new Audemars Piguet grand complication watch incorporates Minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and split-seconds chronograph.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication Watch – New Black Ceramic Model

The new ceramic editions of the AP Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication watch come fitted with black or white rubber strap with titanium pin buckle.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication Watch – New White Ceramic ModelTechnical details

Model: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication

Movement
Self-winding Manufacture Calibre 2885
Total diameter 31.60mm (14 lignes)
Total thickness 8.55mm
Number of jewels 52
Number of parts 648
Minimal guaranteed power reserve 45h
Frequency of balance wheel 2.75Hz (=19,800 vibrations/hour)

Functions
Minute repeater, perpetual calendar, chronograph, split-seconds chronograph

Reference: 26582CB.OO.A010CA.01
– Case: White ceramic case, 44mm, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, white ceramic and titanium push-pieces and crown, white ceramic push-piece guards, water-resistant to 20m
– Dial: Sapphire dial, white counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands, silver-toned inner bezel
– Bracelet: White rubber strap with titanium pin buckle

Reference: 26582CE.OO.A002CA.01
– Case: Black ceramic case, 44mm, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, black ceramic and titanium push-pieces and crown, black ceramic push-piece guards, water-resistant to 20m
– Dial: Sapphire dial, black counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands, black inner bezel
– Bracelet: Black rubber strap with titanium pin buckle

IWC Schaffhausen Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “50 Years Aquatimer” (REF. IW379403)

To mark the 50th anniversary of Aquatimer diver’s watches, IWC Schaffhausen has released a special edition with the first Ceratanium® case.

When diving with oxygen tanks began to gain popularity, IWC introduced the first Aquatimer in 1967. This diver’s watch, water-resistant up to 200 metres, had an internal rotating bezel for setting the dive time. IWC is now celebrating the 50th anniversary of the same watch family with the first watch case made of Ceratanium®

The IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “50 Years Aquatimer” (Ref. IW379403) is limited to just 50 pieces. Its most striking feature is the Ceratanium® case.

The material experts at IWC have been working on the development of this particular composite based on a titanium alloy for more than five years. The special manufacturing process gives the metal a black, ceramic-like surface. As a result, Ceratanium® is as light and unbreakable as titanium, but also as hard and scratch-resistant as ceramic.

IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “50 Years Aquatimer” (Ref. IW379403)

The material also scores well for its high skin tolerance and corrosion-resistance. The dial is black, and some components of the IWC-manufactured calibre 89802 have also been coloured black, such as the rotor of the self-winding system.

The technical features include a digital perpetual calendar. This displays the date and month in large numerals in the style of a digital watch, automatically recognising different month lengths and leap years. The chronograph with flyback function displays stop times, combined in a totalizer at “12 o’clock”.

IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “50 Years Aquatimer” (Ref. IW379403)

Like all Aquatimer models, this watch, which is water-resistant up to 10 bar, features an external/internal rotating bezel for setting the dive time.

The IWC SafeDive system ensures that the internal rotating bezel can only be adjusted when the external bezel is rotated in an anticlockwise direction. As a result, even if the external bezel is accidentally moved, zero hour – the time at which the diver can return to the surface without the need for decompression stops – cannot be exceeded. Thanks to the quick-change system, the black rubber strap can simply be replaced with another strap.

IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “50 Years Aquatimer” (Ref. IW379403)

The special-edition Aquatimer with a Ceratanium® case will be available in IWC boutiques from September 2017 at the price of CHF 50,000.

Technical details

Model: IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “50 Years Aquatimer”, Ref. IW379403

Functions
Perpetual calendar
Large double-digit displays for both the date and month
Stopwatch function with hours, minutes and seconds
Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock
Flyback function
Small hacking seconds

Movement
IWC-manufactured calibre 89802 Mechanical chronograph movement
Frequency: 28,800 A/h | 4 Hz
Jewels: 51
Power reserve: 68 h
Winding: Automatic

Case
Ceratanium® case
Diameter: 49 mm
Height: 19.5 mm
Glass: Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Screw-in crown
See-through sapphire-glass back
Water-resistant: 10 bar

Dial
Black dial, black and red hands
Mechanical external/ internal rotating bezel with IWC SafeDive system
Luminescent elements on hands, dial and internal rotating bezel

Strap
Black rubber strap
IWC bracelet quick-change system

Edition
Limited to 50 watches

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar in Platinum, References 5372P-001 & 5372P-010

Patek Philippe has created a totally new look for its famous split-seconds chronograph in platinum with a perpetual calendar.

Just like the 2015 Split-Seconds Chronograph Ref. 5370 model and the 2016 Ref. 5374, it comes in a round platinum case with a concave bezel as well as countersunk and satin-finished flanks.

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar, Reference 5372P-010

The dial in gold with a blue sunburst pattern or in vertically satin-finished rose gold also presents a subtly reworked appearance. It is a harmonious blend of sophisticated technology, elegance, and readability.

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5372P-010

Both models are equipped with the manual-wound Caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q movement. Both indicate: Month at 3H, Day of the week at 9H, Date at 6H, Leap year at 4.30H, Day/Night display at 7.30H and Moon-phase at 12H. They also offer the split second chronograph function.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar, Reference 5372P

Featured references

  • Ref. 5372P-001: Platinum case, Blue sunburst dial with gold applied numerals, Shiny chocolate brown alligator strap
  • Ref. 5372P-010: Platinum case, Rose gold, vertical satin-finished dial with blackened gold applied numerals, Shiny navy blue alligator strap

Movement
Manually wound mechanical movement
Caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q
Split-Seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar
Moon phases
Height: 7.3 mm
Jewels: 31
Bridges: 12
Parts: 476
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Power reserve: With the chronograph disengaged: min. 38 hours – max. 48 hours

Functions
Split-seconds mono-pusher chronograph
Perpetual calendar
60-minute counter
Day, Month, leap year and day/night indication in apertures
Date by hand
Moon phases
Seconds subdial

Case
Platinum
Case diameter: 38.3 mm
Water resistant to 30 m

Dial
Blue sunburst with gold applied numerals or rose gold, vertical satin-finished with blackened gold applied numerals
18K gold dial plate

Strap
Alligator strap with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny navy blue or shiny chocolate brown, fold-over clasp

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Platinum Limited Edition

The new L.U.C Perpetual Chrono by Chopard interprets the exclusivity of platinum combined with a hand-wound chronograph and a finely crafted perpetual calendar.

Endowed with one of the most sophisticated styles and constructions in the world of Haute Horlogerie, the 20-piece Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono limited edition is intended for modern gentlemen, connoisseurs and devotees of exceptional objects.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Platinum Limited Edition

Entirely developed and produced in the Chopard Haute Horlogerie workshops, L.U.C calibre 03.10-L is built around a column wheel that controls all chronograph operations including the flyback function.

Zero-resetting is done by means of progressive-contact hammers, a guarantee of precision. It ensures smooth yet firm activation of the timing-related components via a vertical coupling clutch. This was the exceptional base mechanism chosen to house the perpetual calendar of the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Platinum Limited Edition watch

This calendar is recognisable by its large twin-aperture date display, complemented by indications of the day, the month and the cycle of standard and leap years. The finishing touches are set by a day/night indication and an orbital moon-phase display. The latter guarantees graphic and accurate readings of the age of the moon, with a mere one-day deviation in 122 years.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Platinum Limited Edition

Since the original configuration of this calendar uses the same areas as the chronograph – both involving indications at 3 and 9 o’clock – the architecture of the perpetual calendar had to be adjusted to offset the day/night indicator by a few millimetres. This arrangement determined the specific layout of the dial and its counters, while optimising its legibility.

Chopard Platinum LUC Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

The Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono has earned double certification. The rating precision of its L.U.C Calibre 03.10-L has been certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). In parallel, each of these platinum watches – meaning both movements and cases – has successfully met the evaluation criteria of the Poinçon de Genève.

This distinction of excellence perpetuates the tradition of the Geneva master watchmakers and is a guarantee of superlative craftsmanship. Formerly attributed to the movement only, the Poinçon de Genève currently puts the watch as a whole to the test.

Chopard Perpetual Calendar Chronograph movement L.U.C 03.10-L calibre

The movement quality criteria are thus backed by other standards unreservedly met by Chopard. The water resistance, the precision, the chronograph and perpetual calendar functions, as well as the power reserve, are meticulously appraised before being awarded the famous quality hallmark. Chopard proudly belongs to the select circle of Haute Horlogerie brands demonstrating such exceptional artisanal savoir-faire.

Chopard Perpetual Calendar Chronograph movement L.U.C 03.10-L calibre

After a limited series in Fairmined gold launched in 2016, the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono appears in platinum this year. The 45 mm case crafted from this rare material is vertically satin-brushed on the sides and polished on the bezel as well as the lugs, thereby creating a textured finish that gives it even greater visual depth.

The dial of the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is in solid gold, adorned with a hand-guilloché motif that creates subtle light effects radiating from the large twin-aperture date display. A high-precision galvanic treatment endows it with its deep blue shade, the colour chosen by Chopard for its platinum limited series.

Chopard Platinum Perpetual Calendar watch with chronograph

The choice of noble materials extends right the way through to L.U.C calibre 03.10-L, which is made of nickel silver, a naturally light grey alloy that ideally lends itself to surface treatment but cannot tolerate scratches. Nickel silver is harder than brass, more resistant to oxidation and acquires a natural patina.

Any mistake made in executing the Côtes de Genève motif, circular-graining, satin-brushing and polishing operation omnipresent on the movement is irretrievable. This movement thus calls for the most expert hands exercising their craft in the watchmaking workshops of Chopard Manufacture.

Chopard Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Platinum

The strap of the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is made of hand-sewn large square-scaled vegetable-tanned alligator leather. Given that a L.U.C watch will be admired from every angle, Chopard has also made the lining in chestnut brown small square-scaled alligator leather.

Technical details

Model: Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono
Ref. 161973-9001 – in platinum
20-piece limited edition

Case
950 platinum
Total diameter: 45 mm
Thickness: 15.06 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
18ct white gold crown with L.U.C logo: 8.50 mm
18ct white gold pushers
Vertical satin-brushed case middle
Polished bezel and back
Exhibition back
Glareproofed sapphire crystal

Movement
Hand-wound movement L.U.C 03.10-L
Number of components: 452
Total diameter: 33.00 mm
Thickness: 8.32 mm
Number of jewels: 42
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours
Nickel silver mainplate and bridges
Côtes de Genève motif adorning the bridges
Chronometer-certified by the COSC
Poinçon de Genève

Dial
Solid gold dial with hand-guilloché pattern centred around the date, galvanic blue sunburst satin-brushed pattern centred around the date – snailed blue case middle – blue and white transfers
Rhodiumed Roman numerals and hour-markers
Rhodiumed Dauphine-type hands for the hours, minutes, small seconds, day and month counters
Baton-type rhodiumed red-tipped chronograph sweep-seconds hand
Minute track

Functions
Central display of the hours and minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock
Large date at 12 o’clock
Days of the week displayed at 9 o’clock and months at 3 o’clock
Orbital moon display at 6 o’clock
Offset day/night display at 10 o’clock and offset leap-year indication at 2 o’clock
Vertical coupling-clutch chronograph with flyback function
12-hour counter at 9 o’clock
30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
Time-setting with stop-seconds function

Strap
Hand-sewn matt blue alligator leather strap, brown alligator leather lining
Platinum pin buckle

IWC Schaffhausen Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. IW392101/IW392103)

Presented at SIHH 2017, the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. IW392101/IW392103) is the first model in IWC’s history to combine a chronograph from the 89000 calibre family with the perpetual calendar’s moon phase display in a subdial at “12 o’clock”.

To achieve this, both the moon and the shadow of the earth are depicted on a single disc and rotate beneath an aperture in the lower part of the subdial.

Together with the other three displays, this new function creates a harmonious unit on the dial of the 43-millimetre watch. The Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is available in two versions: 18-carat red gold and stainless steel.

IWC Schaffhausen Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph IW392101

While creating the 89630 calibre, IWC’s master watchmakers constantly referred back to the old design blueprints that were their source of inspiration. But there was a significant challenge, as the moon phase in the IWC-manufactured 52610 calibre normally used for the perpetual calendar is located at “12 o’clock”.

If the chronograph’s hour and minute counters were to be placed there, the hands would go straight through the centre of the moon phase disc. The 89360 chronograph calibre, on the other hand, had no room for a moon phase. As a result, the engineers designed the 89630 calibre, combining the dual counters of the chronograph with the moon phase mechanism and displaying them on a single sub-dial.

IWC Schaffhausen Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph IW392103

With its 43-millimetre case diameter and case height of 15.5 millimetres, the design of the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is impressive yet carefully balanced. The crown and the two push-buttons are cylindrical and no longer as round as those of the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar of 1985. Combined with the large lugs of the moving horns, they create an impression of overall harmony.

IWC Schaffhausen Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. IW392101

Despite the many displays, the dial remains clear and uncluttered because the designers chose dark blue as the colour for the chronograph moon phase totalizer at “12 o’clock”. This firmly distinguishes it from the dial and three subdials of the red gold version (Ref. IW392101) and the stainless-steel model (Ref. IW392103), which are silver plated and slate-coloured, respectively.

IWC Schaffhausen Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. IW392103)

The Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is the brand’s first watch to combine the hour and minute counters with the moon phase in a single subdial. Achieving this called for a development of the IWC-manufactured 89630 calibre. A silver-plated or gold-plated disc depicts the full moon in all its glory.

At the same time, the rounded, dark blue section of the disc – representing the earth’s shadow – rotates to show the waxing or waning moon. With white gold particles sprinkled across the dark blue background, the subdial has the appearance of a star-studded night sky.

IWC Schaffhausen Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. IW392101/IW392103)

In the red gold model, the case, horns, crown and pushbuttons are all made of solid 18-carat red gold. A gold folding clasp holds the dark brown alligator leather strap by Santoni. In the stainless-steel version with its black alligator leather strap, the slate-coloured counters are equipped with rhodium-plated facets that once again emphasize the circle as an important design element.

IWC Schaffhausen Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. IW392101/IW392103)

A glance through the transparent sapphire-glass back cover reveals the sophisticated design of the movement, which has blued screws, a red gold rotor and various types of decorative polishing on the bridges. The IWC-manufactured 89630 chronograph calibre with an automatic double-pawl winding system features a 68-hour power reserve.

In the chronograph part, the hour and minute counters are combined in a totalizer at “12 o’clock”, which enables stopped times to be read off as if they were the time of day. This is a significantly more elegant form of aggregate timing than two separate counters.

The blue central chronograph hand shows stopped times to an accuracy of one-eighth of a second. The chronograph has two push-buttons, which are used to start, stop and reset the hands, as well as for the flyback function. The movement itself is designed in such a way that the stopwatch can run continuously without diminishing the 68-hour power reserve.

The perpetual calendar works with the utmost precision: in 577.5 years, the display will diverge by just one day from the moon’s actual course. The perpetual calendar displays the date, month and day of the week on three subdials of the same colour at “3”, “6” and “9 o’clock”, respectively. A small window in the bottom left-hand section of the dial reveals the four-digit year display.

Mechanically programmed, the calendar takes into account the different length of the months and even the leap years. Nevertheless, every 100 years (2100, 2200, etc.) a leap day normally due is omitted, which means that a watchmaker will have to advance the calendar manually on 1 March. In 2300, another intervention will be necessary when the current century slide with the figures 20, 21 and 22 will need to be replaced with a new one for the years 2300 to 2599.

Technical details

Model: IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
References: IW392101 & IW392103

Functions
Perpetual calendar with displays for the date, day, month, four- digit year and perpetual moon phase
Stopwatch function with hours, minutes and seconds
Hour and minute counters combined in a single counter at “12 o’clock”
Flyback function
Small hacking seconds

Movement
IWC-manufactured calibre 89630
Mechanical chronograph movement
Frequency: 28,800 A/h | 4 Hz
Jewels: 51
Power reserve: 68 h
Winding: Automatic
Glucydur® beryllium alloy indexless balance with high-precision adjustment screws on balance rim
18-carat red gold rotor
See-through sapphire-glass back

Case, dial and strap

  • Ref. IW392101: 18-carat red gold case, silver-plated dial, dark brown alligator leather strap by Santoni, 18-carat red gold folding clasp
  • Ref. IW392103: Stainless-steel case, slate-coloured dial, black alligator leather strap by Santoni, stainless-steel folding clasp

Glass: Sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 15.5 mm

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar (5000T/000P-B048 – Platinum Case, Caliber1142 QP)

Vacheron Constantin launches a brand new, revisited version of its iconic Traditionnelle chronograph perpetual calendar. Dressed in a precious platinum case and equipped with the new Manufacture Vacheron Constantin Caliber 1142 QP, this Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece combines two key Fine Watchmaking complications: the chronograph and the perpetual calendar.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Platinum

The Traditionnelle collection’s distinctive design codes are reflected in each and every detail: the stepped case with a distinctive fluted pattern on the back, the dauphine-style hands and the railway-type minute track. A white tachymeter scale surrounding the dial accentuates the technical nature of the watch.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Platinum

Exemplifying a concern for legibility, the dial features various shades of grey with finishes that differ according to the functions, reflecting the layout of 1940s Vacheron Constantin chronographs. Standing out against a slate-coloured opaline base, the small seconds and chronograph minute counters are distinguished by a circular-brushed ring with snailed centre.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Platinum

Positioned in the centre of the date counter with a dark grey rim, the hand-finished moon disc 22K in white gold in provides a symbolic depiction of a moon face that is alternately smiling or melancholy, depending on the path of the Earth’s satellite.

Caliber 1142 QP, a state-of-the art movement entirely designed and developed within the Manufacture, replaces the previous 1141 QP.

Visible through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback, the new movement drives the perpetual calendar functions – with indications of the date, days, months, leap years and moon phases – as well as the chronograph functions with a direct-drive seconds hands and 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, positioned opposite the small seconds at 9 o’clock. This movement does not need any adjustments until March 1st 2100.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Platinum movement case back view

With the development of this new caliber, the Vacheron Constantin watchmakers and developers have been keenly attentive to the energy constraints relating to the chronograph functions, in order to minimise their impact on the 48-hour power reserve.

The oscillation frequency of the balance has also been raised from 2.5 to 3 Hz(21,600 vibrations/hour) so as to increase reliability and shock resistance. Like all Vacheron Constantin movements, this new caliber was developed and designed to meet the stringent Hallmark of Geneva criteria.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Platinum

The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle chronograph perpetual calendar is fitted with a hand stitched Mississippiensis alligator leather strap secured by a 950 platinum folding clasp.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar
Reference: 5000T/000P-B048
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Movement
Caliber1142 QP
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
27.5 mm (12’’’) diameter, 7.37 mm thick
Approximately 48 hours of power reserve
3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
324 components
21 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month, leap year indication
Moon phase
Column-wheel chronograph (30-minute counter) at 3 o’clock

Case
950 platinum
43 mm diameter, 12.94 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial
Slate-coloured, opaline, 22K white gold moon disc
White painted tachymeter scale
18K white gold hour-markers

Strap
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Clasp
950 platinum folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Presentation box
With watch winder

Accessory
Delivered with a corrector pen

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono New Model – “Fairmined” 18ct White Gold or Rose Gold Limited Edition

Dedicated to modern day watch connoisseurs, the new L.U.C Perpetual Chrono from Chopard combines a hand-wound chronograph and a finely crafted perpetual calendar within an unprecedented L.U.C movement, Calibre 3.10-L.

Issued in two series of 20 pieces in “Fairmined” 18-carat white gold and in “Fairmined” 18-carat rose gold, it is intended for watchmaking connoisseurs and devotees of exceptional objects.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in “Fairmined” White Gold

Entirely developed and produced in the Chopard Haute Horlogerie workshops, L.U.C Calibre 03.10-L is built around a column wheel that controls all chronograph operations including the flyback function.

The zero-reset system for the counters and the central sweep seconds hand is handled by progressive-contact hammers guaranteeing optimal precision. It ensures smooth yet firm activation of the timing-related components via a vertical coupling clutch. This was the exceptional base mechanism chosen to house the perpetual calendar of the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in “Fairmined” Rose Gold

This calendar is recognisable by its large twin-aperture date display, complemented by indications of the day and whether or not it is a leap year, while the finishing touches are set by a day/night indication and an orbital moon-phase display. The latter guarantees graphic and accurate readings of the age of the moon, with a mere one-day deviation in 122 years.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono “Fairmined” 18ct White Gold

Since the original configuration of this calendar uses the same areas as the chronograph – both involving indications at 3 and 9 o’clock – the architecture of the perpetual calendar had to be adjusted to offset the day/night indicator by a few millimetres. This arrangement determined the specific layout of the dial and its counters.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono “Fairmined” 18ct Rose Gold

The Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono has earned double certification. The rating precision of its L.U.C Calibre 03.10-L has been certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). In parallel, each of these 20 watches in “Fairmined” gold – including both their movements and their cases – has successfully met the evaluation criteria of the Poinçon de Genève, which now encompass the watch in its entirety, providing an excellent guarantee of superlative craftsmanship and expertise.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in “Fairmined” White Gold

The L.U.C Perpetual Chrono stems from high standards embodied in exceptional materials effectively underpinning its elegance and functionality.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in “Fairmined” Rose Gold

The 45 mm case of the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is entirely made of “Fairmined” 18-carat gold, sourced from Fairmined certified mining cooperatives in Columbia, Peru and Bolivia. The L.U.C Perpetual Chrono in white gold is the first L.U.C watch being produced out of 18-carat « Fairmined » white gold by Chopard.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in “Fairmined” White Gold

Chopard is in fact the first luxury watch and jewellery company to have committed itself to supporting mining communities in order to help them achieve Fairmined certification. It contributes to training, to social well-being and to environmental protection.

Fairmined certification ensures that gold is extracted in a responsible way by artisanal and small-scale mining organisations, that both miners and the environment are treated correctly and that purchasers pay a premium, in addition to the fixed gold price, to be reinvested in community projects.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in “Fairmined” Rose Gold

The dial of the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is coated with grey ruthenium. It is adorned with a hand-guilloché motif that creates subtle light effects radiating from the large twin-aperture date display.

The L.U.C Calibre 03.10-L is made of nickel silver, a naturally light grey alloy that ideally lends itself to surface treatment but cannot tolerate scratches. Any mistake made in executing the Côtes de Genève motif, circular-graining, satin-brushing and polishing operation omnipresent on the moment is irretrievable.

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Calendar Chronograph movement L.U.C 03.10-L

This movement thus calls for the most expert hands exercising their craft in the watchmaking workshops of Chopard Manufacture.

The strap of the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is made of hand-sewn large-scaled vegetal tanned alligator leather. Given that a L.U.C watch will be admired from every angle, Chopard has also made the lining in chestnut brown small-scaled alligator leather.

Technical details

Model: Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono

References
Ref. 161973-1001 – in “Fairmined” 18ct White Gold, 20-Piece Limited Edition
Ref. 161973-5001 – in “Fairmined” 18ct Rose Gold, 20-Piece Limited Edition

Case
18ct “Fairmined” gold
Total diameter: 45 mm
Thickness: 15.06 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
18ct gold crown with L.U.C logo: 8.50 mm
Vertical satin-brushed case middle
Exhibition back with glare-proofed sapphire crystal

Movement
Hand-wound movement L.U.C 03.10-L
Total diameter: 33.00 mm
Thickness: 8.32 mm
Number of jewels: 42
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours
Nickel silver mainplate and bridges
Côtes de Genève motif adorning the bridges
Chronometer-certified by the COSC
Poinçon de Genève

Dial
Ruthenium-toned sunburst satin-brushed and hand-guilloché gold dial, with beams radiating from the date – Snailed silver-toned inner bezel ring – red and black transfers
Rhodiumed Roman numerals and hour-markers
Rhodiumed Dauphine-type hands for the hours, minutes, small seconds, day and month counters
Baton-type rhodiumed red-tipped sweep-seconds hand
Minute track

Functions
Central display of the hours and minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock
Large date at 12 o’clock
Days of the week displayed at 9 o’clock and months at 3 o’clock
Off-set day/night display at 10 o’clock and offset leap-year indication at 2 o’clock
Orbital moon display at 6 o’clock
Vertical coupling-clutch chronograph with flyback function
12-hour counter at 9 o’clock
30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
Time-setting with stop-seconds function

Strap
Hand-sewn double-sided alligator leather strap dyed with plant-based pigments (CITES certified)
Pin buckle in “Fairmined” 18 ct gold

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260

Prestigious Swiss watch manufacture Vacheron Constantin presents horological masterpiece Atelier Cabinotiers reference 57260, the most complicated watch ever made. It took eight years by a team of three highly talented master watch makers from the manufacture to conceive this horological marvel.

The reference 57260 that boasts two dials and features 57 complications, several of which are entirely new and unique. In the reference number 57260, first two digits indicate the number of complications incorporated in this watch and last three digits reminds us the 260th anniversary of Vacheron Constantin (1755 -2015).

The reference 57260 incorporates significant number of ingenious and important new mechanisms that have never been seen before in horology. Made of solid gold (18 carat white gold), polished with glazed bezels on each side, the elegant and well proportioned case has a three position winding crown with corresponding indication window on the case band to show the position of the crown during winding or setting.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260

A coaxial button in the crown controls the start/stop and return to zero functions of the double retrograde chronograph and the push button in the case band at 11’o clock activates and restarts the rattrapante chronograph function. You can also notice a totally un -obstructive and new design of the concealed flush fit alarm winding crown located in the case band at the 4’o clock position.

Both dials are made of soiled silver, while the rotating discs for the displays are made of aluminium which is light weight. The meantime dial is of regulator style, displaying the hours, minutes, and seconds on separate chapter rings. The first displays some world premier horological functions developed by the Vacheron Constantin watchmakers and seen for the first time ever in this watch.

Vacheron Constantin Reference 57260 – First Dial

The Hebraic perpetual calendar

Of the utmost technical and mathematical complexity, the Hebraic perpetual calendar truly is considered to be one of the greatest contributions to traditional watchmaking of recent times.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260 first dial

Due to the long term changing cycles of the Hebraic calendar and its difference to the Gregorian calendar, the making of a complete functioning mechanical Hebraic perpetual calendar in a watch has been impossible until now. Highly complicated mathematical calculations combining both the lunar months and solar year were transcribed into not only an operational mechanism but a display that is elegant, logical and easy to read.

The Hebraic perpetual calendar works on the principle of the 19 year Metonic cycle because 19 years it is almost exactly a multiple of the solar year and lunar month over that period. On this watch the Metonic cycle is displayed as a sector a 3’o clock concentric with the chronograph hour register.

The sacred date of Yom Kippur indicated in the Gregorian calendar each year, is represented by the corresponding retrograde hand at 6’o clock, which returns to its starting point every 19 years, at which time the sector is replaced for another for each of the 19 year cycles.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260 Leap Year

To keep the 12 month lunar year in pace with the solar year, a 13th leap month called an intercalary month has to be added seven times during the 19 year cycle. Ingeniously the watch not only allows for this addition but also show the user whether the current year is a 12 or 13-month year via an indicator hand and 12/13 display situated concentric with the chronograph minute register and counter hand in the 9’o clock position.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260 Jewish calendar lunar phase

In the Hebrew calendar, there are fixed lunar months of 29 or 30 days alternately. Those of Cheshvan and Kislev can have 29 or 30 days, depending on the year, here, the self correcting date hand is concentric to the Yom Kippur sector and constant seconds. On either side of the date, two windows indicate the number of days and months in Hebrew.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260 Jewish calendar

The secular Hebrew calendar, which is displayed in a four digit window below the Yom Kippur sector, is calculated from the supposed date to the creation of the world in 3760 BC. To calculate the present year in the Hebrew calendar 2015 is added to 3760 giving the year 5775. The Jewish New Year begins again in September 2015 with therefore the Hebrew year 5776. Tishrei is the first month of the Hebrew calendar.

Within the centre of the hour chapter ring are four representations of the moon phases and also a hand indicating the age of the moon within its 29. 5305882 day cycle. The Vacheron Constantin moon phase system requires correction only once every 1027 years.

Double Retrograde Rattrapante Chronograph

Featuring a totally innovative design and construction, the Vacheron Constantin retrograde rattrapante chronograph is completely new to the world of watch making. This is the first watch ever to be made with a rattrapante chronograph with double retrograde function.

This ingenious chronograph is read by the user exactly in the manner of a classic split seconds chronograph; uniquely however, whilst both hands still work in unison and from the same axis, unlike all other split seconds chronographs, the two hands never actually meet but operate on two separate scales on opposing sides of the dial. In this respect, the new chronograph can perhaps be the best described as a detached split seconds chronograph.

Double Retrograde Rattrapante Chronograph

To create this function, a new chronograph mechanism has been invented and made entirely in house at Vacheron Constantin especially for this timepiece.

Further, it has been necessary to specially design and make the two long and very fine chronograph hands so that chronograph has perfect stability and extreme accuracy during operation. There are two register dials for the chronograph counting each elapsed minute up to 60 minutes and each elapsed hour up to 12 hours so that events up to 12 hours in duration can be accurately recorded.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260 Movement Calibre 3750
Vacheron Constantin Calibre 3750 – First Dial Side

The Westminster Chiming, Alarm and Night Silence Feature

Sectors can be seen on the dial to either side of the hour chapter ring, just above the chronograph registers. These sectors with their corresponding hands are indicators for the selection of the mode of chiming, mode of alarm striking and the alarm power reserve indicator.

This watch offers 3 possible striking modes:

  • Striking: The watch chimes automatically at each passing quarter hour, in the same way as a clock. With five hammers striking five finely tuned steel gongs, the chiming sequence is that of Big Ben, the clock of the Palace of Westminster in London.
  • Night silence: Chiming automatically disables from 22h to 8h
  • Silence: Chiming switched off when it is not desired.

There are two additional options to choose from; Grand sonnerie(striking the hours and the quarters at ever passing quarter) and alternatively petite sonnerie(striking the full hours at the hour but only a quarter strike without hours on the quarters). To repeat the chiming at any time, the slide on the band of the case can be activated whenever it is desired by the user.

Night time silence : A unique and very user friendly new feature has been developed especially for the chiming system of this watch, that of the automatically activated Night Time Silence Mode. A special mechanism has been developed by Vacheron Constantin enables the watch for not chiming between the hours 22h-08h in order not to disturb its owner. This system is unique in being the first to be automatically activated without the need to manually set the chime or silence option.

Alarm: In addition to the chiming mechanism, this model houses an integrally connected alarm system with separate power reserve indication. This mechanism allows a choice between either a traditional alarm on an additional differently tuned single gong with single hammer or Westminster Carillion full chiming alarm in either Grande or Petite Sonnerie mode. The alarm is set via the winding crown which moves an additional alarm hand co-axial with the hour and moon’s age hand. The flush fit winding button is situated in the band of the case.

Vacheron Constantin Reference 57260 – Second Dial

As well as the astronomical indications, several unique and major systems developed especially for this watch are presented here including a 12 hour second time zone governed by a digital world time display, a double perpetual calendar and a remarkable fully visible armillary sphere tourbillon.

The blue star chart in the upper half of the dial represents the night sky and the star constellations visible from user’s home city, with the months appearing around the edge. Concentric around the outer border is the scale for the retrograde date of the perpetual calendar, the hand flying back to its start point at the end of each month. Subsidiary dials for the days of the week and the months flank the star dial and the aperture above the month dial shows the number of the year between 1 and 4 in the leap year cycle.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260 second dial

Around the edge of the dial are three astronomic scales which are read using the central gold hand identified by its sun counterpoise. The outermost scale for the year divided into zodiac sign periods additionally indicates the dates of Vernal and Autumnal Equinoxes and the summer and winter solstices. The interrelated four seasons are displayed on a further inner concentric ring.

The sector above the tourbillon aperture indicates equation of time showing the discrepancy between true solar time and standard meantime which fluctuates during the year but can be ahead by as much as 16 minutes (around November 3rd) and behind by 14 minutes (around February 12th). Solar and meantime are equal on just for occasions each year. Flanking the tourbillon aperture are two dual sectors for the time of sunrise and day length and time of sunset and night length in the user’s home city. These indications are calculated from the hours of light and darkness and not strictly set times.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260

Another world premier feature is the 12 hour second time zone dial with separates day and night indicator window located in the 10th clock position; the second time zone is used in conjunction with the digitally displayed world time function which gives a choice of 24 cities and countries and their respective time deviations from Greenwich Meantime.

This thoroughly new and discreet 12 hour system of world time mechanism and display is the first new system to be developed since Louis Cottier’s well known world time system with 24 hour indication invented about 1935 and is therefore of major significance.

The Dual Function Perpetual Calendar

The perpetual calendar systems invented and built by the watch makers of Vacheron Constantin are amongst the greatest achievements made during the construction of this watch. They represent Vacheron Constantin’s supreme mastery of both highly complex mathematical calculations and the ability of their watch making team to translate the calculations into mechanisms functioning in complete harmony in relation to the myriad other functions.

Including the Hebraic perpetual calendar seen on the other dial, this watch has the ability to provide three entirely different perpetual calendar readings. The fundamental new departure is that two possible options are available for the reading of the Gregorian perpetual calendar displayed on this dial: either the traditional Gregorian calendar or the business calendar system known as ISO 8601, a numerical system which utilises 52 weeks and 7 days.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260 perpetual calendar

The Gregorian perpetual calendar which automatically corrects itself for the appropriate number of days in the month and the leap years can be read on the dial using the retrograde date, the days of the week and months dials, with the leap year window displaying a number between 1 and 4 located to the right side of the retrograde date sector.

The ISO 8601 business calendar is a specific system founded by the International Organisation for Standardization and used mainly in international financial sector.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260 business calendar

The purpose of this standard is to provide an unambiguous method of representing dates and times, so as to avoid misinterpretation of numeric representations of dates and times, particularly when data are transferred between countries with different conventions for writing numeric dates and times. When times are also required under the ISO system, they are given using the 24 hour system and with time zone information where necessary. Both these functions are also present on this dial.

When the ISO 8601 mode is employed, the number of the week within the year and the number of the day within the week takes precedence over the traditional calendar month and traditional date, the number of the week is read from the dial concentric to the month indication and the number of the day within the week is indicated by a number between 1 (for Monday) and 7 (for Sunday) in a window directly above the week dial.

The ISO system has a full cycle of 400 years and employs a seven day cycle with weeks starting on a Monday. However, an ISO year can have either 52 or in some cases 53 full weeks when New Year’s Day falls on a Thursday (Wednesday or Thursday in leap years): this occurs every 5 or 6 years. In the ISO system, week 1 is the one which contains the first Thursday of the year and always contains the January 4th.

The last week of the year in the ISO calendar is the one that contains the last Thursday and always includes December 28th. This system requires the user to adopt a different way of interpretation, for example: if the calendar is displaying Thursday, September 17th, the ISO calendar will read as day 4 in the day aperture and W 38 on the week dial.

Another option in the mechanism of this ingenious system is that it can be switched from ISO mode to traditional calendar year model. A calendar year is the period beginning January 1 and ending on December 31. Its programming mode will therefore also on 1 January of the year put the number of days of the week in synchronization with the first day of the calendar year. If the annual calendar displays the first day of the year on Thursday, January 1, the calendar will display w1 on the week dial and 1 in the day window.

The Armillary Sphere Tourbillon

The mesmerising armillary tourbillon cage containing the watch’s escapement is visible through the aperture beneath the sky chart. This supremely elegant mechanism displays a three dimensional constantly rotating sphere moving with the utmost delicacy simultaneously in three directions. Appropriately, the watch maker has also chosen to use a spherical balance spring which not only adds to the elegance of the mechanism, its special properties contribute to the accuracy of the watch.

This tourbillon was named armillary because visually it is reminiscent of the circles and rings of the scientific instrument known as the armillary sphere. It was placed in the second dial side complementing the astronomical functions to suggest the apparent movement of the stars, the sun and the ecliptic around the earth.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260 Armillary Sphere Tourbillon

The frame of the cage itself, made of ultra light aluminium and carrying the escapement and balance, is ingeniously constructed to incorporate the Vacheron Constant company symbol of Maltese Cross, once every 15 seconds during the tourbillon’s   rotation, the Maltese Cross becomes fully visible to the viewer.

Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Reference 57260 Movement Calibre 3750
Vacheron Constantin Calibre 3750 – Second Dial Side

The armillary sphere tourbillon is a feat of high precision watch making. Made of the lightest of material, its purpose is to minimize the effects of gravity on the balance wheel, hair spring and pallet fork of the escapement.

The tourbillon is essentially a revolving platform and cage upon which the whole escapement is mounted that makes one full rotation in one minute. In this tourbillon, the escapement is rotated in three planes at once. the escapement has two further exceptional features: a spherical balance spring and diamond anchor plates.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Reference 57260

Reference: 57260/000G -B046
Hallmark of Geneva Certified timepiece

Movement
Calibre 3750
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical manual winding
72 mm (31”1/2) diameter, 36 mm thick
Approximately 60 hours of power reserve
Frequency: 2.5 Hz(18,000 vph)
More than 2800 components
242 jewels

Calibre plate
Plate 150: Chronograph
Plate 250: Gregorian perpetual calendar
Plate 350: Chronograph and Hebraic perpetual calendar
Plate 550: Astronomic calendar

Indications
Time functions (6)
Perpetual calendar functions: Gregorian and Hebraic (15)
Astronomic calendar functions (9)
Lunar calendar functions (1)
Religious calendar functions (1)
Chronograph (3 column wheels) functions (4)
Alarm functions (6)
Westminster Carillion striking functions (8)
Further functions (7)

Case
18k white gold
98 mm diameter, 50.55 mm thick
Not water resistant

Dials
Metal
Silvered opaline
Number of hands: front 19/back : 12

Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen and magnifying glass

Rarity
Unique piece crafted on demand
Total weight: 960 gm

Patek Philippe Reference 5004 in Titanium, Unique Piece for Only Watch 2013

Patek Philippe, one of the oldest and most revered Swiss watch manufacturing houses, unveils a special edition timepiece – the Reference 5004 in Titanium – for Only Watch 2013 Charity auction.

One of the great classics of the Patek Philippe Grand Complications collection between 1995 and 2011, Reference 5004 embodied the traditional, manually wound chronograph at its highest level.

Patek Philippe Reference 5004 in Titanium, Unique Piece for Only Watch 2013

Its Caliber CHR 27-70 Q is based on a “Nouvelle Lémania” movement produced exclusively for Patek Philippe and completely reworked in the company’s workshops, to which Patek Philippe’s engineers and master watchmakers have added a sophisticated split-seconds mechanism and a very fine perpetual calendar.

The movement comprises 407 parts, meticulously finished by hand according to the workshops’ time-honored methods. Over the years, this rare combination of complications was housed in a case of timeless, discreet elegance in white gold, yellow gold, platinum, and a limited series in steel.

Patek Philippe Reference 5004 in Titanium, Unique Piece for Only Watch 2013

This Only Watch 2013 special Reference 5004T is the first and only version ever produced in titanium.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Reference 5004 in Titanium, Unique Piece for Only Watch 2013

Movement
5004T Caliber CHR 27-70 Q, Manual winding
Split seconds chronograph with 30-minute counter
Perpetual calendar: day and month in apertures, date and leap year by hands
Moon phases and 24-hour display
Seconds sub-dial
Base of the chronograph movement “Nouvelle Lémania”, exclusive execution to Patek Philippe

Case, dial and strap
Case diameter: 36.7 mm.
Case material: Titanium
Interchangeable titanium full back and sapphire crystal case back
Water resistant to 30 m
Solid gold dial plate, black with hand-guilloché carbon pattern, gold applied numerals
White seconds hand, red split seconds hand
Calf leather strap embossed with a carbon pattern, red hand stitching
Titanium prong buckle

Franck Muller Perpetual Calendar Bi-Retro Chronograph Edition Cristiano Ronaldo

In 2012, Franck Muller created a special edition timepiece to honor Cristiano Ronaldo, one of the finest football players of all times.

The Perpetual Calendar Bi-Retro Chrono CR7 Limited edition watch features the signature Cintrée Curvex case made of 18-carat gold.

Franck Muller Perpetual Calendar Bi-Retro Chronograph Edition Cristiano Ronaldo

Equipped with a self-winding mechanical movement, this timepiece features bi-retrograde fly-back hands for days of the week and date. In addition, it also features two chronograph counters (30-minute at 3 o’ clock and 12 hour at 9 o’clock) and the moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock.

Cristiano Ronaldo’s favourite journey number is 7. To evoke this, the black lacquered dial features a diamond-encrusted 7 hour-marker.

Franck Muller Perpetual Calendar Bi-Retro Chronograph Edition Cristiano Ronaldo

The 18-carat gold case-back carries a special engraving of the player’s silhouette and signature. The brand created only seven Perpetual Calendar Bi-Retro Chronograph Edition Cristiano Ronaldo watches. All of them were sold to private collectors at an undisclosed price.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication 44mm

AUDEMARS PIGUET enhances the the ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE line by welcoming its first-ever exceptional Grande Complication movement.

The mechanical selfwinding heart of the Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication comprises three advanced functions, forming what is considered in the industry as the basis of a Grande Complication movement.

Its traditional mechanical selfwinding movement combines minute repeater, split-second chronograph and perpetual calendar functions. In concrete terms, in addition to showing legal or civil time, this  44 mm-diameter masculine watch is thus also equipped with a minute repeater mechanism, a rare complication enabling it to sound the hours, quarters and minutes on demand.

Moreover, it houses a perpetual calendar complication which, as its name implies, ensures a perpetual display of the calendar information as well as lunar cycles. Last but not least, it affords the possibility of performing timing operations and reading off intermediate or “split” times thanks to the split-second complication which has become an authentic Audemars Piguet signature in all the Grande Complication models that the Manufacture has produced since 1882.

This classic work of art, expressed in highly contemporary terms by Audemars Piguet, establishes itself as a synthesis of Haute Horlogerie. It is a material embodiment of the talent and the expertise of the finest watchmaking artisans exercising their craft in the Grandes Complications department of the Manufacture.

Epitomising incredible mastery of the watchmaking art, the 648 parts of the mechanical selfwinding Calibre 2885 are finished with meticulous care. The purpose of contemporary finishes such as sandblasting is to magnify the more traditional treatments such as bevelling and straight-graining.

To reveal the exceptional nature of the open-working or “skeletonising” performed by the watchmakers, the parts composing this beating heart are rendered partially visible by the use of a transparent sapphire crystal dial and the fitting of a display back. The latter notably reveals the solid gold oscillating weight featuring an anthracite coating which accentuates the overall contemporary touch that the watchmakers have decided to give this model.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication 44mm

Endowing such a purely traditional movement with a firmly future-oriented approach most definitely implies that in order to break the rules, you must first master them. The movement in fact represents a material expression of this abstract principle.

However, it is precisely the fact of adapting this Grande Complication movement to today’s world that lends this timepiece its truly iconic dimension. This is doubtless because, above and beyond mere words, this contemporary horological opus in titanium and ceramics, issued in a three-piece limited series, remains a creation individually executed by a single artisan who will devote more than 820 hours of painstaking craftsmanship to this task.

Finishes such as bevelling, recesses, sinks and sandblasting call for countless hours of fine craftsmanship and incredible dexterity, in a process amounting to around one-third of the price of the movement. Among the techniques used to make this movement visually appealing, bevelling is undoubtedly the most highly appreciated manual technique, as well as that which requires the greatest accuracy.

This exercise, which calls for years of experience, consists in using a file to cut down the edges of components and in polishing them with a slightly curved burnisher, so as to highlight the rim by enabling the light to play across the bevels.

These finishes serve historically functional purpose, by protecting the movement against dust and humidity, and thus any risk of oxidation. Nonetheless, these finishes and decorations will only effectively magnify the beauty of the mechanism if the technique involved in this art is fully mastered.

It is indeed a form of art fully mastered by Audemars Piguet and continually applied to our products. Functionality meets aesthetics in these infinitely delicate operations. This aesthetic treatment of the mechanism powerfully reveals this meticulous workmanship, executed to perfection at Audemars Piguet. Each part has been treated with infinite care.

Some components, such as the hammers of the minute repeater striking mechanism which are visible through the case-back, combine two finishes entailing highly complex execution : a mirror polish that is so fine that artisans even joke among themselves that “a glance is enough to scratch it” ; along with a bevelling featuring interior and external angles embodying the ultimate expression of the artist’s mastery.

These specific angles, which can be easily pinpointed in the mechanism, may be viewed as the secret signature of the artisan, and provide undeniable proof of the authenticity of a work performed by hand because no machine could possibly produce this type of finish.

This exceptional titanium watch, featuring a black ceramic bezel, crown and pushpieces, also comes in a pink gold version. In the latter configuration, this luxurious and sporty instrument rife with superlatives is issued in a three-piece edition only, complete with a white rubber strap, an 18-carat pink gold caseband topped by a black ceramic bezel, along with white ceramic pushers and crown.

Each detail of this modern timepiece demonstrates the extent to which the Audemars Piguet Manufacture masters its classics to perfection and is capable of lending an unmistakably modern touch to tradition.

Technical details

Model: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication 44mm

Movement
Calibre 2885, selfwinding
Total diameter: 31.60 mm (14 lines)
Movement thickness: 8.95 mm
Number of jewels: 52
Number of parts: 648
Minimum guaranteed power reserve: 45 hrs
Cadence of the balance : 19,800 vph

Cases
Ref.26571RO.OO.A010CA.01:  18K pink gold case (44 mm), glare-proofed sapphire crystal and case-back, black ceramic bezel, white ceramic crown and pushpieces, water-resistant to 20 m. 
Ref.26571IO.OO.A010CA.01: Titanium case (44 mm), glare-proofed sapphire crystal and case-back, black ceramic bezel, crown and pushpieces, water-resistant to 20 m.

Dials
Ref.26571RO.OO.A010CA.01:  Sapphire dial, white counters, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, light silver-toned inner bezel ring.
Ref.26571IO.OO.A010CA.01: Sapphire dial, white counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, light silver-toned inner bezel ring.

Functions
Minute repeater, perpetual calendar, split-second chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds.

Special features
Grande Complication movement entirely open-worked and assembled by hand
Column-wheel chronograph mechanism
Striking mechanism sounding on two gongs placed on the same level
Metallised sapphire moon-phase indicators
Customisable oscillating weight
Hand-finished cut-out parts (polished bevels, bead-blasted, matt surface underneath)
Hand-finished bridges (rounded-off and polished bevels, satin-brushed flanks, circular-grained recesses)

Straps
Ref.26571RO.OO.A010CA.01:White rubber strap with 18K pink gold pin buckle.
Ref.26571IO.OO.A010CA.01: Black rubber strap with titanium pin buckle.

Edition
26571RO.OO.A010CA.01: 3-piece limited edition
26571IO.OO.A010CA.01:3-piece limited edition

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Pink Gold Version – Ref 49020/000R-9753

The Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar model in 18- carat pink gold is the latest addition to Overseas collection, Vacheron Constantin’s sporting and technical line.

This elegant and highly technical timepiece boasts a chronograph and a perpetual calendar – two of the complications most favoured by devotees of mechanical Haute Horlogerie.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Pink Gold Version - Ref 49020/000R-9753

This Overseas Perpetual Calendar model, boasting all the signature features of this collection, radiates a sophisticated, refined and immediately recognisable character – starting with the flowing and powerful lines of its case, the bezel inspired by Vacheron Constantin’s Maltese Cross emblem, along with the hourmarkers, crown, screw-lock pushers, as well as the caseback enhanced by a raised medallion depicting the famous three-mast Amerigo Vespucci ship.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Pink Gold Version - Ref 49020/000R-9753

Its 18-carat pink gold 42 mm-diameter case, like all men’s Overseas models, is guaranteed water-resistant to 15 bar (approximately 150 metres) and houses a soft iron cage protecting the mechanical movement from magnetic fields of up to 25,000 A/m.

The association between the pink colour of the case and the subtle sandy shade of the dial lends a luxurious sporting touch to this model. Like the other timepieces in this collection, the hands and hour-markers are accented with white luminescent substance ensuring perfect readability even in the dark.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Pink Gold Version - Ref 49020/000R-9753

This exceptional model representing a compendium of technical Haute Horlogerie beats to the rhythm of Calibre 1136 QP and its 228 parts: a mechanical self-winding movement – just as one would expect from a sports watch – oscillating at the rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour and endowed with an approximately 40- hour power reserve.

In addition to the hours, minutes and small seconds at 6 o’clock, Calibre 1136 QP powers the chronograph functions – sweep seconds-hand, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock – as well as those of the perpetual calendar – day of the week, date, 48-month counter with leap years as well as a moon-phase display.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Pink Gold Version - Ref 49020/000R-9753

The Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar is delivered with two straps: one in vulcanised brown rubber and the other in brown alligator leather. A pink gold triple-blade, double-pusher folding clasp guarantees security and comfort for the wearer of this exceptional model.

This timepiece is also delivered with a luxurious presentation case equipped with a rotating mechanism that enables the watch – when not worn – to be kept perpetually wound and thereby ensure that the perpetual calendar indications are properly adjusted.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar in Pink Gold
Reference 49020/000R-9753

Movement
Calibre 1136 QP
Mechanical self-winding
Movement thickness: 7.90 mm
Movement diameter: 28 mm (11 ¼ lignes)
Jewelling: 37 jewels
Number of parts: 228
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
Power reserve: Approximately 40 hours

Indications
Hours, minutes and small seconds at 6 o’clock
Chronograph with column wheel
12-hour and 30-minute counters
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, 48-month counter with leap year indication)
Moon phase

Case
18K 5N pink gold
Screwed-down crown and pushpieces
Solid case-back with stamped “Overseas” medallion
Satin-finished table, polished bezel, chamfered edges
Water resistance: Tested at a pressure of 15 bar (approx. 150 metres)

Dial
Light grey opaline with black painted indications and scales
Light grey snailed counters with 5N gold-plated diamond polished filets
White painted external zone
Hands and hour-markers in 18K 5N pink gold with white luminescent material

Strap
Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather strap, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Delivered with a second strap in dark brown rubber
Clasp: 18K 5N pink gold triple blade folding clasp, double security with buttons

PATEK PHILIPPE Grand Complication Ref. 5204 – Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar

Prestigious Geneva watchmaker Patek Philippe presents Ref. 5204, a grand complication watch with split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar functions. This platinum timepiece is equipped with a new caliber developed in-house.

PATEK PHILIPPE Grand Complication Ref. 5204 - Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar

The fact that the classic manually wound Patek Philippe chronograph with horizontal clutch and column wheel control comes in three degrees of complexity reflects the manufacture’s heritage.

Now, its proprietary chronograph caliber is being launched with a perpetual calendar and a split-seconds function, two of the most popular complications. In this grand complication version, the caliber is designated CHR 29-535 PS Q.

The perpetual calendar (Q) relies on the same configuration as the one first presented a year ago, integrated in the Ref. 5270 chronograph. The split seconds chronograph (R), however, was extensively redesigned by Patek Philippe’s engineers. The innovative split-seconds isolator reduces the height of the movement and assures that the balance amplitude remains constant while lap-time readings are being taken.

Patek Philippe Caliber CHR 29-535 PS Q
Patek Philippe Caliber CHR 29-535 PS Q

A patented equalization device constrains possible angular deviations between the chronograph and split-seconds wheels by 75%. The result: nearly perfect superposition of the two sweep hands.

This micromechanical marvel is housed in a classic round platinum case with a diameter of 40 mm beneath a white opaline dial made of solid gold. The movement can be admired through the sapphire-crystal display back. Owners who are overwhelmed by so much beauty can have it replaced with the solid-platinum back provided with the watch.

Traditionally, Patek Philippe’s classic chronographs can be assigned to one of three categories: simple chronographs, simple chronographs with perpetual calendars, and split-seconds chronographs with perpetual calendars. This tradition has been upheld with the CH 29-535 PS* proprietary caliber that was launched in 2009 in a basic configuration that would later allow the addition of a calendar module and a split-seconds mechanism.

The Ref. 5170 presented in 2010 and the Ref. 5270 introduced in 2011 are now joined by the new Patek Philippe split-seconds chronograph Ref. 5204 with an all-new caliber developed in-house: the CHR 29-535 PS Q.

PATEK PHILIPPE Grand Complication Ref. 5204 - Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar
Two years ago, connoisseurs and collectors already began to speculate that Patek Philippe’s coveted Ref. 5004 split-seconds chronograph in a classic manually wound design with a column wheel and a horizontal clutch, as well as a perpetual calendar, would some day be superseded by a new split-seconds chronograph based on the manufacture’s proprietary CH 29-535 PS caliber. But even experts were surprised how quickly the suite of in-house chronograph versions was completed.

The intention behind the annual flow was to present a complete line of chronograph models based on the new proprietary movement as soon as possible, an initiative that yet again demonstrates the competence of the independent, family-owned manufacture. The ambitious project has now been completed.

PATEK PHILIPPE Grand Complication Ref. 5204 - Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar

For decades, Patek Philippe’s emphasis has been on crafting its movements in-house and endowing them with the manufacture’s inimitable signature. But for a long time, there was an exception to this rule: Until the CH 29-535 PS chronograph caliber was launched; Patek Philippe classic chronographs were powered by the 27-70 caliber.

It was outsourced from Nouvelle Lémania but in a modified version built to the manufacture’s specifications and crafted exclusively for Patek Philippe. The caliber was always assembled and completed in Geneva, and in the opinion of many aficionados, it was the world’s best and most beautiful chronograph movement.

This was the benchmark to be eclipsed in the new millennium with the launch of a unique chronograph initiative that subsequently culminated in 2005 with the development of the CHR 27-525 PS, the world’s thinnest, split-seconds chronograph; in 2006, with the self-winding CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H chronograph caliber with an Annual Calendar; and in 2009, with the manually wound, column-wheel-controlled CH 29-535 PS chronograph with a horizontal clutch.

The mission was accomplished, as evidenced by the applause from every corner of the horological world. This paved the way for enriching the classic chronograph series with different degrees of complexity based on proprietary calibers. Together with the three Patek Philippe basic chronograph calibers and the chronograph module for the Triple Complication Ref. 5208, eight chronograph movements were launched in merely seven years.

These eight chronograph calibers belong to the current portfolio of over 50 movements developed and crafted in-house. It includes 17 basic calibers for wristwatches with a broad repertoire of simple manually wound and self-winding movements, calibers with tourbillons, perpetual calendars, the Annual Calendar, minute repeaters, and astronomical functions, etc.

The new Patek Philippe split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar features all the traditional assets that impress true connoisseurs – manual winding, two column wheels, horizontal clutch – yet it is also the most modern representative of its category.

This is due on the one hand to the CH 29-535 PS basic caliber with six patented innovations, and on the other, to the perpetual calendar presented to the world in 2011 with the launch of the Ref. 5270.

Accordingly, the new CHR 29-535 PS Q split-seconds chronograph caliber also beats at a frequency of 28,800 vps (4 Hz), features an instantaneous 30-minute counter and a continuous seconds subdial, and has a power reserve of 65 hours.

But the split-seconds mechanism was totally reworked and updated with two technical innovations: an innovative isolator for the split-seconds lever and the patent-pending mechanism that optimizes the congruent alignment of the split-seconds hand and the chronograph hand.

1. Isolator for the split-seconds lever

The isolator for the split-seconds lever uncouples the split-seconds wheel from the chronograph wheel as soon as the split-seconds hand is stopped to display a lap time. Because this interrupts the contact between the split-seconds lever and its heart cam, the stopped split-seconds wheel cannot influence the amplitude of the balance.

Isolator system in the Ref. 5004: The isolator for the split-seconds lever relies on an isolator wheel that is driven by an octopus wheel (O) (isolator wheel / splitseconds spring wheel) on the split-seconds column wheel and uncouples the split-seconds lever as soon as the split-seconds clamp (C) closes.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5004 Isolator System

Because the octopus wheel consistently rotates in the same direction, it always has to be returned to its home position together with the split-seconds lever; this is done by the isolator wheel spring as soon as the split-seconds clamp opens again.

Disadvantages: The disadvantage of this design is the extra height needed by the isolator wheel spring that sits on the split-seconds wheel (I). Because the springs of the split-seconds lever and isolator wheel act in opposite directions, the isolator wheel spring must also overcome the force of the split-seconds lever spring to rotate the unidirectional isolator (octopus) wheel back to its home position.

Innovative isolator system for the Ref. 5204P

The unique Patek Philippe design is based on an isolator (A) controlled by the split-seconds column wheel (B). As soon as the split-seconds clamp (C) closes, the beak (P) of the isolator falls between two columns and with its teeth advances isolator wheel (D) that uncouples split-seconds lever (E).

Patek Philippe Ref. 5204P Isolator System

When the split-seconds clamp is opened again, the beak (P) of the isolator is lifted onto a column; its teeth turn the isolator wheel in the opposite direction and the split-seconds lever is released again. The swan’s neck cap of the column wheel doubles as a spring (F) that constantly presses the isolator (A) against the split-seconds column wheel.

Advantages: The new design is thinner because it eliminates the need for an isolator wheel spring mounted on the split-seconds wheel (I). The isolator spring is part of the split-seconds column wheel cap. Unlike the mechanism in the Ref. 5004 in which the isolator (octopus) wheel rotates only in one direction, this isolator moves back and forth when the split-seconds clamp is opened and closed. This improves reliability.

The polished column-wheel cap is a venerable Patek Philippe tradition. In the new CH 29-535 PS basic chronograph caliber, the column-wheel cap handles the extra function of an eccentric that allows incomparably finer adjustments. With the integrated swan’s neck that serves as an isolator spring, the cap on the split-seconds column wheel has now been given an additional function as well.

2. Mechanism for reducing the offset between the split-seconds and chronograph hands

Split-seconds chronographs have two sweep hands: the chronograph hand (trotteuse) and the split-seconds (rattrapante) hand. The split-seconds wheel with the split-seconds hand rotates together with the chronograph wheel to which the chronograph hand is attached; both wheels are connected with the split-seconds heart cam that is mounted on the chronograph wheel.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5204P Isolator Mechanism

As is the case in all mechanical connections, the ruby roller of the split-seconds lever requires a minimal amount of play to function flawlessly. However, this play can also result in slight deviations of the position of the split-seconds hand when both hands should be precisely superposed. As a rule, this is concealed by making the chronograph hand slightly wider.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5204P Isolator Mechanism

As such, this would not be a serious shortcoming, but then again, it is at odds with Patek Philippe’s quest for perfection. For this reason, the workshops’ caliber engineers developed an innovative solution for which a patent application has been filed.

When the split-seconds hand is stopped to display a lap time, the contact between the split-seconds wheel and the split-seconds heart is interrupted because the split-seconds lever is isolated.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5204P - Mechanism for reducing the offset between the split-seconds and chronograph hands

As soon as the split-seconds hand rejoins the chronograph hand, the ruby roller (M) of the split-seconds lever (E) rolls along the contour of the split-seconds heart cam (K) until it slips into a recess that defines the congruent position of the chronograph and split-seconds hands.

Because of the mechanical play and movable ruby roller, this position may vary slightly and result in minimal superposition offsets. In the new Patek Philippe solution, the spring-loaded split-seconds lever has two flat contact surfaces (N) on either side of the ruby roller and the recess of the split-seconds heart cam has two flat shoulder zones.

As soon as the ruby roller drops into the recess, the flat contact surfaces of the split-seconds lever come to rest against the flat shoulders of the split-seconds heart cam.

For this reason, the alignment of the split-seconds hand is defined by the stable contact surfaces (N) and no longer by the movable ruby roller. This solution improves the positional congruence of the split-seconds wheel relative to the chronograph wheel by 75%. The result is the highly enhanced superposition of the split-seconds hand and the chronograph hand when the chronograph is in the start position or when the split-seconds clamp is released.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5204P Split-seconds hand engaged
Split-seconds hand engaged

 

[(A) Isolator(B) Split-seconds column wheel (C) Split-seconds clamp (D) Isolator wheel (E) Split-seconds lever (F) Isolator spring and cap of split-seconds column-wheel (swan’s neck) (G) Split-seconds control lever (H) Split-seconds control hook (I) Split-seconds wheel (J) Isolator pin (K) Split-seconds heart (L) Split-seconds clamp springs]

Patek Philippe Ref. 5204P split second hand stopped
Split seconds hand stopped

The new split-seconds isolator mechanism consists of 42 parts and with a height of 1.7 mm, it is 0.16 mm thinner than the isolator ensemble of the Ref. 5004. The height of the new Ref. 5204 movement is 8.70 mm compared with 8.86 mm for the movement of the Ref. 5004.

The perpetual calendar mechanism of the new classic Patek Philippe split-seconds chronograph was presented in 2011 with the debut of Ref. 5270. It is composed of 182 individual parts and occupies 1.65 mm of the overall movement height of 8.70 mm. This testifies to the manufacture’s competence in dealing with complex components such as large levers, date wheels, day and month stars, leap-year cams, lever springs, and other intricate parts.

In Patek Philippe timepieces, the appeal of such components lies not only in the precision with which they were crafted but also in the lavish finishing work invested in them, such as gently concaved and polished chamfers, manually satin-finished flanks, and straight-grained surfaces.

The steel wheels and pinions are also meticulously finished: all teeth and leaves are individually polished by hand using a rotating hardwood disk. This work is done not just for the sake of beauty. Smoothly polished surfaces generate less friction, reduce wear, and transmit kinetic energy more efficiently.

Despite the complexity of the elaborate going train, the split-seconds chronograph, and the perpetual calendar, the well-organized dial presents the twelve separate indications with exemplary clarity and legibility.

PATEK PHILIPPE Grand Complication Ref. 5204 - Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar

It features the typical face of classic Patek Philippe calendar chronographs as did the Ref. 5270, only this time with the addition of a split-seconds hand. True to tradition, the day of the week and the month are displayed in two in-line apertures beneath 12 o’clock. The analog date dial at 6 o’clock incorporates the moon phase display.

The continuous subsidiary seconds and the jumping 30-minute chronograph counter are located at 9 and 3 o’clock, respectively, in dials whose centers are shifted slightly below the horizontal centerline of the main dial.

This layout is a typical design feature of the movement. The small round aperture between 4 and 5 o’clock indicates the leap-year cycle, and a second one between 7 and 8 o’clock accommodates the day/night indicator that simplifies corrections of the calendar functions.

PATEK PHILIPPE Grand Complication Ref. 5204 - Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar

The silvery opaline dial is crafted from 18K gold; it has twelve applied baton hour markers in white gold with luminescent fillings. Together with the black-oxidized gold hour and minute hands, also with Superluminova fillings, the markers assure outstanding legibility in the dark. The intelligently configured dial sets the stage for one of the most popular and useful functions of a grand complication wristwatch.

As the apotheosis of Patek Philippe’s classic chronograph trilogy, the new Ref. 5204 is housed in a platinum case with a diameter of 40 mm and a height of 14.19 mm. The sleek, round, three-part case with straight lugs has a cambered crystal secured in a concave bezel; the sapphire-crystal display back can be replaced with a solid-platinum case back that is delivered with the watch.

PATEK PHILIPPE Grand Complication Ref. 5204 - Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar

As with all of the manufacture’s platinum watches, the case is marked with a flawless Top Wesselton diamond discreetly set between the lugs at 6 o’clock, where it is noticed only by the wearer.

The round start and stop pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock, and of course the pusher in the crown that controls the split-seconds hand, distinguish this model from simple chronographs with perpetual calendars. The new Ref. 5204 split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar is crafted with all meticulous attention to detail mandated by the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal.

It is worn on a handstitched, matt black alligator strap with square scales, and secured with a very comfortable and convenient platinum fold-over clasp.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Grand Complication Ref. 5204 in 950 Platinum – Split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar

Movement
Caliber CHR 29-535 PS Q
Manually wound mechanical movement, split-seconds chronograph with two column wheels, chronograph and split-seconds hands, jumping 30-minute counter and subsidiary seconds. Perpetual calendar with day, month, leap-year cycle and day/night indication in apertures, analog date. Moon phases.
Diameter: 32 mm
Height: 8.70 mm (of which 1.65 for the perpetual calendar, 1.7 mm for the split-seconds mechanism)
Number of parts: 496 (of which 182 for the perpetual calendar and 42 for the split-seconds mechanism with isolator)
Number of jewels: 34
Power reserve: 65 hours
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Breguet
Functions: Two-position crown
– Pushed in: To wind the watch
– Pulled out: To set the time and stop the seconds hand

Displays
Center hour and minute hands
Chronograph hand and split-seconds hand from the center
Subsidiary dials:
– 30-minute counter between 3 and 4 o’clock
– Subsidiary seconds between 8 and 9 o’clock
– Date at 6 o’clock
Apertures:
– Day and month on an axis beneath 12 o’clock
– Moon phase at 6 o’clock
– Day/night indication between 7 and 8 o’clock
– Leap year cycle between 4 and 5 o’clock
Corrector push pieces:
– Day corrector between 10 and 11 o’clock
– Month corrector between 12 and 1 o’clock
– Moon-phase corrector between 6 and 7 o’clock
– Date corrector between 11 and 12 o’clock
Delivered with correction stylus in ebony and 18K white gold

Chronograph pushers: – Start and stop at 2 o’clock
– Split-seconds pusher in the crown
– Reset at 4 o’clock

Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Case

950 platinum, sapphire crystal, display back with sapphire-crystal window and interchangeable solid-platinum back, Top Wesselton diamond in the case at 6 o’clock
Water-resistant to 30 meters
Case dimensions: Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 14.19 mm
Width between lugs: 21 mm

Dial
18K gold, silvery opalescent
Twelve applied hour markers in black-oxidized gold
“Dauphine” hour and minute hands in black-oxidized gold
Counterbalanced sweep chronograph and split-seconds hands in black-oxidized steel
Subsidiary dials, off-center, circular guilloché pattern:
– Subsidiary seconds between 8 and 9 o’clock: leaf-shaped hands in black-oxidized gold
– 30-minute counter between 3 and 4 o’clock: leaf-shaped hands in black-oxidized gold

Strap: Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, matt black, fold-over clasp in platinum.

*Patek Philippe Chronograph Caliber CH 29-535 PS

The six patented innovations for Patek Philippe’s proprietary CH 29-535 PS chronograph caliber launched in 2009 are also incorporated in the new CHR 29-535 PS Q caliber of the split-seconds chronograph movement with perpetual calendar.

They contribute to long-term reliability; the simpler and more precise adjustability of specific functions; more convenient servicing; greater energy efficiency, and reduced wear.

Patek Philippe Chronograph Caliber CH 29-535 PS

These advantages safeguard the value and longevity of Patek Philippe timepieces, assuring that they will delight future generations to which they are handed down.

1. Optimized toothing profile: Suppression of hand quiver or rebound at start. Vibration-free chronograph hand movement. Increased efficiency. Reduced mechanical wear.

2. Precision adjustment of engagement depth at the column wheel: The large eccentric cap on the column wheel allows the very precise mesh depth adjustment of the chronograph wheels at the outermost end of the clutch lever.

3. Optimized synchronization of the clutch lever and brake lever: The clutch lever and brake lever are synchronized directly with a finger at the clutch lever. This eliminates the complicated intermediate step via the column wheel.

4. Slotted minute-counter cam: Thanks to the slotted minute-counter cam, the chronograph hand can gently coast to a stop when reset.

5. Self-setting hammers: Self-setting hammers improve functional integrity and dependability.

6. Hammers pivoted between jewel bearings: The two hammers that reset the chronograph hand and the minute counter are independently pivoted between jewel bearings on the same axis; each hammer is pressed against the respective return-to-zero heart cam with its separate spring. This system optimizes the precise alignment of the hammers and improves their stability.

The caliber CH 29-535 PS movement has even more reliability and performance enhancing features. In particular: the instantaneous 30-minute counter is much more complicated than a semi instantaneous or a continuous counter.

Thanks to its intricate construction, the small hand jumps within fractions of a second to produce accurate, doubt-free readings. Another example relates to the chronograph’s driving wheel that is integrated directly into the going train and does not need to be retrofitted by the watchmaker.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar “Boutiques Exclusive” Limited Edition

This year, Swiss watch manufacture Vacheron Constantin is enriching its Overseas collection by introducing the Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar “Boutiques Exclusive” model.

This original perpetual calendar chronograph is equipped with the remarkable Calibre 1136 QP within a steel case enhanced by a titanium bezel. The Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar “Boutiques Exclusive” is issued in an 80-piece limited edition exclusively reserved for the 27 Vacheron Constantin boutiques around the world.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar “Boutiques Exclusive” Limited Edition

The sporty Overseas collection is the only line of watches from Vacheron Constantin to offer steel models. Overseas line was enriched in 2009 with entirely grey-clad versions combining steel and titanium and featuring slate grey dials teamed with grey alligator leather or rubber straps. In 2011 this line welcomes an exclusive model associating two major complications: the chronograph and the perpetual calendar.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar “Boutiques Exclusive” Limited Edition

At the heart of this exceptional model beats the 228-part Calibre 1136 QP, a mechanical self-winding movement – as one would expect from a sports watch – beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour and endowed with an approximately 40-hour power reserve.

In addition to the hours, minutes and small seconds at 6 o’clock, Calibre 1136 QP powers the chronograph function as well as the perpetual calendar indicating the day of the week, the date, and the month on a 48-year cycle, complete with leap-year display and moon phases.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar “Boutiques Exclusive” Limited Edition with Sunburst satin-brushed slate grey dial

This newcomer to the Overseas collection comes in a generous 42 mm case that is water-resistant to 15 bar (approximately 150 metres). The collection’s emblematic bezel inspired by the Maltese Cross is made in titanium – as are the pushpiece guards – while the steel case incorporates a soft iron cage protecting the mechanical movement from magnetic fields.

Another signature feature of the Overseas collection, the screw-down caseback features a medallion engraved with the famous Amerigo Vespucci three-masted sailing ship.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar “Boutiques Exclusive” Limited Edition

Admirably complementing the chromatic theme of the steel case and titanium bezel, the sunburst satin-brushed slate grey dial is distinguished by 18-carat white gold applied hour-markers highlighted by a white luminescent substance.

A first for Vacheron Constantin, the use of yellow to underscore the three hands relating to the chronograph function lends an additional dynamic touch and guarantees excellent readability.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar “Boutiques Exclusive” Limited Edition

The Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar “Boutiques Exclusive” is delivered with two straps: one in black vulcanised rubber and the other in dark grey alligator leather.

A triple-blade double-pusher folding clasp guarantees secure and comfortable wear for the owner of this exceptional model. Issued in an 80-piece limited edition.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar “Boutiques Exclusive”
Reference: 49020/000W-9656

Movement
Calibre: 1136 QP
Energy: Mechanical self-winding
Movement thickness: 7.90 mm
Movement diameter: 28 mm (11 ¼ lignes)
Jewelling: 37 jewels
Number of parts: 228
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
Power reserve: Approximately 40 hours

Indications
Hours, minutes and small seconds at 6 o’clock
Chronograph with column wheel
12-hour and 30-minute counters
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, 48-month counter and leap year)
Moon phase

Case
Stainless steel
Titanium bezel and pushpiece screws
42 mm in diameter
Solid case-back with “Overseas” medallion
Screw fastened, protected against magnetic fields
Water resistance: Tested at a pressure of 15 bar (approx.. 15 metres)

Dial
Sunburst satin-brushed slate grey
12 applied 18-carat gold hour-markers highlighted by white luminescent substance

Strap
Black vulcanised rubber
Delivered with a second strap in dark grey hand-sewn saddle-stitched
Mississippiensis alligator leather with large square scales

Clasp
Triple-blade double-safety folding clasp with stainless steel pushers, polished half Maltese Cross

Edition
Individually numbered 80-piece limited edition

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270G

In 1925, Patek Philippe created the world’s first wristwatch with a perpetual calendar: the Ref. 97’975. It always correctly displayed day of the week, the month, and the date for months with 31 and 30 days and, depending on the leap-year cycle, February with either 28 or 29 days.

The brand started regular production of perpetual calendars only in 1941. Created before 70 years, these Ref. 1518 chronographs with perpetual calendars featuring display apertures for the day and month as well as rectangular pushers are now favorites in international auctions by fetching top prices and still repeatedly breaking world records.

While Patek Philippe concentrated on the launch of new chronographs from November 2009 to the end of 2010, the emphasis is now on other complications. But to the delight of many watch lovers, the year of chronographs has not quite ended yet. One example is the new Ref. 5270, which for the first time combines the functionality of a perpetual calendar with the new classic chronograph caliber that is crafted entirely in-house and had its global debut in 2009.

This year, on the occasion of the 70th anniversary of its first wristwatch with a perpetual calendar and a chronograph, Patek Philippe unveils a new complicated wristwatch: Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270

The new manually wound chronograph caliber with a perpetual calendar CH 29-535 PS Q; probably incorporates more innovative optimization features than any other traditional chronograph mechanism. For example, the engagement and disengagement action takes place in the traditional manner with the driving, clutch, and chronograph wheels, but instead of the conventional triangular teeth, these wheels have newly calculated and patented toothing profiles that reduce wear, boost efficiency, and prevent tooth tip collisions.

Moreover, the engagement of the wheels is not adjusted with customary eccentrics but instead with the slightly eccentric shape of the polished column-wheel cap that very precisely defines the position of the clutch lever at its outermost point. Further optimization features include self-setting hammers pivoted between jewel bearings, the synchronization of the brake lever with the clutch lever, and the slotted minute-counter cam that prevents the excessively abrupt deceleration of the wheel in response to a reset command.

Thanks to this group of six patent-pending inventions, the new caliber is decidedly the most advanced of all traditional chronograph movements. It is also the perfect choice for driving the perpetual calendar, one of the most popular Patek Philippe complications. Indeed, the eternal calendar is of particular significance for the workshops in Geneva.

Patek has developed a totally new mechanical calendar module to add the perpetual calendar complication to the manually wound basic chronograph caliber CH 29-535. It took two years to perfectly match the 1.65-mm high traditional cam-controlled calendar mechanism with 182 parts to the chronograph ensemble.

Thus, the perpetual calendar of the Ref. 5270 demonstrates Patek Philippe’s competence in dealing with complex components such as large levers, date, day and month stars, and year cams with planetary leap-year wheels, jumper springs, and other intricate parts. Additionally, the many steel parts in the going train and the calendar mechanism stand out not only as regards their precision but also with respect to the artistic finishing that turns them into tiny, aesthetic masterpieces.

They exhibit manually satin-finished flanks and straight-grained surfaces as well as carefully chamfered and polished edges – and as opposed to plain flat 45° bevels, the chamfers are slightly convex, a typical Patek Philippe detail. The steel wheels and pinions are also meticulously finished: all teeth and leaves are individually polished by hand using a rotating hardwood disk.

This work is done not just for the sake of beauty. Smoothly polished surfaces generate less friction, reduce wear, and transmit kinetic energy more efficiently.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270G white gold

Dial of the new Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270 reflects the genetic code of the original model that was launched in 1941. These family ties are apparent in the aperture displays for the day of the week and the month at 12 o’clock. The analog date dial at 6 o’clock features an integrated moon-phase display which is so precise that it deviates from the true lunar cycle by merely one day every 122 years.

The seconds subdial on the left and the instantaneously jumping 30-minute counter on the right are slightly below the horizontal centerline: this is a characteristic feature of the new manufacture caliber. As was the case 70 years ago, the black-oxidized gold hands for standard time are leaf-shaped, as in the Ref. 1518 presented in 1941, while the chronograph hand with its counterweight has a slender lancet-style silhouette.

The applied baton hour markers in black-oxidized gold are framed by a railway-track minute scale and the chronograph scale. The two small, round apertures for the day/night indication (between 7 and 8 o’clock) and for the leap-year indication (between 4 and 5 o’clock) are hallmarks of the modern perpetual calendar.

The fact that the silvery opalescent dial with a visible diameter of 32.4 mm accommodates a total of eleven indications in a well-organized and legible way, testifies to the unique competence and uncompromising timepiece design philosophy of Patek Philippe.

The case of the Ref. 5270 sets a worthy stage for the complicated caliber CH 29-535 PS Q movement and the clear dial. With a diameter of 41 mm, it is distinctly larger than its predecessors and radiates contemporary generosity and elegance.

Crafted from 18K white gold, it is a classic three-part construction manufactured in-house with the traditional cold-forming technique. Placed in high-precision dies, the solid white-gold blanks assume their final shape while being subjected to the force of heavy-duty, high-tonnage presses.

Cold-forming is followed by many hours dedicated to machining the bores for the crown, chronograph pushers, correction push pieces, and strap bars as well as for deburring, precision grinding, and mirror polishing; after these operations, the case with the concave bezel and the elegantly curved lugs is finished. The 18K white-gold chronograph pushers exhibit the same slightly rounded rectangular shape as those that adorned the first Patek Philippe wristwatch chronographs with perpetual calendars of the 1940s and 1950s.

The strap lugs with the slightly concave flanks were also inspired by these earlier models. The screwed display back with the sapphire-crystal window showcases some of the most attractive elements of mechanical watchmaking artistry: the large Gyromax balance as well as the key levers and wheels of the chronograph mechanism.

These beautifully crafted movement parts are among those that can be admired in action. The watch is worn with a hand-stitched matt black alligator strap secured with an 18K white-gold foldover clasp.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270G

Movement
– Caliber CH 29-535 PS Q
– Manually wound mechanical movement, column-wheel chronograph, chronograph hand, instantaneously jumping 30-minute counter, and subsidiary seconds. Perpetual calendar with day, month, leap-year cycle and day/night indication in apertures, analog date. Moon phases.
– Diameter: 32 mm
– Height: 7 mm (of which 1.65 mm for the perpetual calendar)
– Number of parts: 456 (of which 182 for the perpetual calendar)
– Number of jewels: 33
– Power reserve: 65 hours
– Balance: Gyromax®
– Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz)
– Balance spring: Breguet

Functions
Two-position crown
– Pushed in: To wind the watch
– Pulled out: To set the time and stop the seconds hand

Displays
Center hour and minute hands
Chronograph hand (trotteuse) from the center
Subsidiary dials:
– 30-minute counter between 3 and 4 o’clock
– Subsidiary seconds between 8 and 9 o’clock
– Date at 6 o’clock
Apertures:
– Day and month on an axis beneath 12 o’clock
– Moon phase at 6 o’clock
– Day/night indication between 7 and 8 o’clock
– Leap year cycle between 4 and 5 o’clock

Corrector push pieces:
– Day corrector between 1 and 2 o’clock
– Month corrector between 12 and 1 o’clock
– Moon-phase corrector between 6 and 7 o’clock
– Date corrector between 11 and 12 o’clock
Delivered with correction stylus in ebony and 18K white gold

Chronograph pushers: 
– Start and stop at 2 o’clock
– Reset at 4 o’clock

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
18K white gold, sapphire crystal, screwed display back with sapphire crystal window
Water-resistant to 30 meters
Case dimensions: Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 12.40 mm
Width between lugs: 21 mm

Dial
Silvery opalescent
Twelve applied hour markers in black-oxidized gold
Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands in black-oxidized gold
Counter-balanced chronograph hand from the center
Subsidiary dials, off-center, circular guilloché pattern
– Subsidiary seconds between 8 and 9 o’clock. Leaf-shaped hands in black-oxidized gold
– 30-minute counter between 3 and 4 o’clock: Leaf-shaped hands in blackoxidized gold

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, matt black, foldover clasp in 18K white gold.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar« Calibre 1141QP » in Platinum

Fine watchmaking has its quota of exemplary models that attract more than their share of collectors and fan the ardour of the true enthusiast. Only a few chronographs are worthy of belonging to this elite circle.

Such factors as the configuration of the movement, its performance, reliability and finish inspire the awe in which they are held. The Vacheron Constantin Chronograph Perpetual Calendar “Calibre 1141QP” indubitably belongs among these legendary movements.

This jewel of the watchmaker’s art that’s only 7.40 mm thick is of the mechanical kind and wound by hand. It drives a column-wheel chronograph with a pivoting clutch as well as a perpetual calendar with moon phases. This outstanding mechanism has set the pace of some of the most exalted wrist-chronographs in the history of watchmaking and is regarded by all experts as the most technically and stylistically accomplished of its kind because of its extraordinary complexity and incomparable architecture.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar« Calibre 1141QP » in Platinum

To give it due honour, Vacheron Constantin this year presents it in a case commensurate with its status: a version in 950 platinum of the Patrimony Traditionnelle model that took its place from the outset among the reference masterpieces of the Geneva-based manufacturer.

The exterior of this superlative watch is equal to the movement it protects. The characteristic case in 950 platinum of the Patrimony Traditionnelle models obeys the conventions of elegant restraint. Its ample 43 mm diameter ensures that all the indications on the dial are clearly visible.

The latter is available in an opaline silver finish with silvered subdials or in a velvety grey with snailed subdials in black rhodium. The varied hues recall the style of Vacheron Constantin’s former chronographs, and those who take an interest will recognize a particular affinity with the chronographs of the 1940s.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar« Calibre 1141QP » in Platinum

Vibrating 18,000 times an hour, the Calibre 1141QP can draw on a power reserve of some 48 hours. In addition to the hours and minutes with the small seconds on the left, it indicates the elapsed time with the central chronograph seconds and a 30-minute counter on the right.

In the perpetual calendar, the days, months and leap years are nicely arranged in apertures while the moon phases and dates hand are displayed at 6 o’clock.

The smiling or melancholy moons are engraved by hand on a plate of solid platinum with a black patina. Like all Vacheron Constantin movements, the Calibre 1141QP is distinguished by the detailed manual labour that goes into chamfering the bridge plates decorated in Côtes de Genève and by the circular graining of the baseplate, also done by hand.

These noteworthy finishes and the movement’s remarkable architecture can be appreciated through the sapphire-crystal caseback.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar« Calibre 1141QP » in Platinum, References: 47292/000P-9510 and 47292/000P-9590

Movement
1141 QP
Energy: Mechanical, manual-winding
Movement thickness: 7.40 mm
Movement diameter: 27.00 mm
Jewels: 21 jewels
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: More than 45 hours

Indications
Hours, minutes
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Column-wheel chronograph
30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
Centre chronograph hand
Perpetual calendar and precision moon-phases at 6 o’clock

Case
950 platinum
Diameter: 43 mm
Convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inside
Screwed-down exhibition back with transparent sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 3 bar, equivalent to 30 metres

Dial
Silvered or dark grey opaline
Two finely snailed counter at 3 and 9 o’clock
Black or white painted minute-track

Strap
Black hand-stitched, saddle-finish, square-shape scales alligator leather
Clasp: 950 platinum folding-clasp; Polished half Maltese Cross

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Collection Excellence Platine Edition 2010

Platinum, at the top of the hierarchy of precious metals, denotes the highest prestige in fine watchmaking. Extremely rare, it can be used to protect only watch movements of the most elaborate complexity. Vacheron Constantin thus gives full honour to this most precious of metals by choosing it to encase the very complicated movements of three models introduced in 2010.

The Patrimony Traditionnelle “Calibre 2253” model in the Collection Excellence Platine is an outstanding timepiece and chief among the Grand Complication models presented by Vacheron Constantin at the SIHH 2010. In addition to the tourbillon escapement, it includes such astronomical complications as the perpetual calendar, the times of sunrise and sunset and the equation of time. Furthermore it has an exceptional running time of 14 days. Only 10 numbered pieces will be produced in this limited edition.

The Patrimony Traditionnelle “Calibre 2755” watch in platinum concentrates the major complications in which Vacheron Constantin excels both technically and stylistically. It combines the tourbillon and the perpetual calendar with a minute-repeater that features an original and completely silent mechanism to pace the strike.

The third model, also in platinum, is the Patrimony Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar “Calibre 1141QP”, which embodies the Vacheron Constantin convention in styling. It brings together a chronograph and a perpetual calendar driven by a highly regarded hand-wound movement. The Calibre 1141 is an exceptional design that has been used in some of the best chronographs. Experts consider it a model of highly complex chronograph construction.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Collection

In the world of Vacheron Constantin, the Patrimony collection best expresses the manufacturing company’s genetic makeup – the inher-itance of skills painstakingly acquired since its inception. Their round cases span the past and the future as an eternal design of natural elegance that needs no adornment, for the simple beauty of time-honored workmanship is sufficient to denote Swiss watchmaking of the highest order.

The Patrimony Traditionnelle collection remains true to the artistry apparent in some of Vacheron Constantin’s finest historical work. Beyond the studied restraint of the styling, the collection symbolizes certain values shared by those who treasure fine horology.

Those who know something about watches will appreciate the finer points of the company’s “special reserve” watchmaking: the thin bezel, the knurled surround of the screw-held caseback with its sapphire-crystal window, the perfectly ground trapezoid marking each hour – with a pair for the 6 and the 12 – and the faceted Dauphine hands on silvery dials of varied hues. The case, with welded lugs, has a stepped profile bisected by a cleanly drawn caseband.

The artistic heritage of the Patrimony Traditionnelle collection, expressed in today’s terms, serves as a reminder that tradition and modernity coexist as a matter of course at Vacheron Constantin.

Such established artistic parameters can be readily applied across the range of watches in the Patrimony Traditionnelle collection, from a self-winding wristwatch confined to the hours, minutes and seconds, to a minute-repeating tourbillon watch with a perpetual calendar. Extending from straightforward to extremely involved mechanisms, the collection proclaims Vacheron Constantin’s spirit of invention and pays tribute to two-and-a-half centuries of history.

The Collection Excellence Platine by Vacheron Constantin

Platinum’s rarity, purity and incorruptibility qualify it as supreme among symbols of excellence. Vacheron Constantin started working with platinum in the early 19th century to offer its clients pieces in the most valuable of all metals.

While 18-carat gold contains 75% of the pure metal, platinum is 95% pure. Platinum is also 30 times scarcer than gold and there are very few deposits. Its hardness and density make it more resistant than any other metal and thus the best choice for an everlasting object.

A scratch in platinum displaces rather than removes material, avoiding the loss through wear and tear of a softer metal. Platinum’s ability to retain its full weight and value has made it popular as a token of eternity. Platinum has other remarkable features: it is malleable and very ductile. A gram of the metal can be drawn into a thread almost two kilometers long.

To herald the start of another quarter millennium in 2006, the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin, in tribute to the most extraordinary and aristocratic of precious metals, decided that all platinum watches would henceforth be initially produced in limited editions of never more than 150 pieces.

Their availability would be reserved for collectors and connoisseurs. The Collection Excellence Platine was thus born. In addition to a platinum caseband, each watch in the collection has a rare watchmaking feature that distinguishes it from other watches in this metal.

These might include a clasp, a winding crown or hands in platinum, as well as a brushed platinum dial, discreetly hallmarked “PT950”. Attention to detail is taken to the extreme of using platinum thread entwined with silk to sew the dark blue alligator straps fitted to these watches.

Long reserved for royalty, platinum conveys unrivalled distinction, attracting both arbiters of taste and well-informed collectors. Such owners of Vacheron Constantin timepieces in platinum know that they belong to a most exclusive club.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Collection 2009 – Patrimony Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, Patrimony Traditionnelle Chronograph, 38 mm Patrimony Traditionnelle, Skeleton Patrimony Traditionnelle and Jewellery Patrimony Traditionnelle

The Patrimony line encapsulates Vacheron Constantin’s very DNA, its heritage and its savoir-faire, patiently accumulated for over 250 years. It is also a symbol of the purest kind of elegance, a recognised and longstanding signature of Vacheron Constantin.With its round cases and timeless classicism, the Patrimony is rooted in the purest tradition of watchmaking.

The Traditionnelle line of the Patrimony collection, which was introduced in 2007, is inspired by the aesthetic features that have distinguished some of Vacheron Constantin’s most beautiful historical models.Stamped with purism and rigour, it also adheres to those fundamental values which are important for true connoisseurs and which distinguish the Geneva Manufacture’s most exclusive pieces.

A fine bezel, knurling around the screw-down sapphire crystal back, faceted trapezoid hourmarkers, dauphine hands and dials in several historically-inspired shades of silver, and a tiered case and horns with pure, straight lines. These identifying characteristics of the Patrimony Traditionnelle line, expressed in a contemporary style, remind us that tradition and modernity are natural bedfellows at Vacheron Constantin.

All the new models in the Patrimony Traditionnelle line meet these clearly defined characteristics. As a result, this prestige line can house a mechanical movement that features a small seconds as well as a major complication.

The Manufacture’s engineers, designers and master watchmakers use this line as a vehicle to express the very best of the Vacheron Constantin tradition. A new example of this dynamic is offered with this year’s launching of some new exceptional timepieces in the Patrimony Traditionnelle line, timepieces that express Vacheron Constantin’s savoir-faire and its commitment to the patient construction of a reference line.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Collection 2009

The Patrimony Traditionnelle line is offering some extraordinary new major pieces in 2009: from a new exclusive manual-winding movement to the most emblematic of chronographs to skeleton and jewellery models.

Haute Horlogerie has those emblematic models that attract attention from collectors and arouse the curiosity of genuine watch lovers. Only a handful of renowned chronographs, however, from among the most prestigious, belong to this rare and exclusive club.

Particularly admired are the architecture of their movements and the simplicity of their dials. The two new chronographs offered by Vacheron Constantin in its Patrimony Traditionnelle collection belong to this prestigious tradition and will certainly become iconic models of the Geneva Manufacture.

They are to Haute Horlogerie what a sublime wine is to oenology. Rare, exclusive and subtle, perfectly conceived and bewitching, they only deliver their true secrets to passionate connoisseurs. This subtle alchemy reveals the truly exceptional nature of the Patrimony Traditionnelle’s new chronographs and perpetual calendar chronographs.

At the heart of these two horological jewels is the legendary Vacheron Constantin 1141 calibre, a manual-winding mechanical column-wheel chronograph movement. This outstanding movement has been used to power some of the most prestigious chronographs in the history of watchmaking and is considered by many experts to be the most beautifully made chronograph movement of them all.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

The exterior of this timepiece is as exceptional as the movement it houses. In keeping with the Patrimony Traditionnelle line, the 18K pink gold case is elegant, simple and classic. The generously-sized 43 mm case guarantees excellent legibility of all the indications on the dial.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

As well as snailed counters and a painted black minute-track, the silvered opaline dial presents a multi-toned finish in the spirit of Vacheron Constantin’s historic chronographs. The watch enthusiast will immediately pick out affiliations with the chronographs of the 1940’s.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

The mechanical manual-winding 1141 QP movement makes 18,000 vibrations per hour and has a 48-hour power reserve. Besides the hours, minutes and small seconds at 9 o’clock, it features chronograph functions with a centre direct-drive seconds hand and a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock. The perpetual calendar indicates the days of the week, months and leap years in windows, as well as the astronomical phases of the moon and a date hand at 6 o’clock.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

The moon, sometimes happy, sometimes melancholy, is hand-engraved from a gold plate. Like all Vacheron Constantin movements, the 1141 QP calibre is distinguished by the meticulous chamfering work of the Côtes de Genève bridges and the circular-graining of the plate, both done by hand.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

Water-resistant to a pressure of 3 Bar, the equivalent of 30 metres, the 18K pink gold case features a sapphire crystal back through which one can admire the remarkable complexity and exceptional architecture of the 1141 QP movement.

Technical details

Model: Patrimony Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar
Reference: 47292/000R-9392

Movement
1141 QP
Energy: Mechanical, manual-winding
Height of movement: 7.4 mm
Diameter of movement: 27.00 mm
Jewels: 21 rubies
Frequency: 18’000 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: Approximately 48 hours

Indications
Hours, Minutes; Small second at 9 o’clock
Column-wheel chronograph; 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock; Centre chronograph hand
Perpetual calendar and precision moon-phases at 6 o’clock

Case
18K pink gold
43 mm in diameter
Convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on inside
Transparent back with screws, sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 3 bar, equivalent to 30 metres

Dial
Silvered opaline
Finely snailed counter; Black painted minute-track

Strap
Brown hand-stitched, saddle-finish, square-scaled alligator leather
Clasp: 18K 5N pink gold folding-clasp; Polished half Maltese cross

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Chronograph

All the aesthetic characteristics of the Patrimony Traditionnelle line – the fine bezel, the knurling around the sapphire crystal back, the dauphine hands, and the dials in several historically-inspired shades of silver – are present and correct in this new Haute Horlogerie chronograph. Although only recently launched, it has already become a benchmark of the genre with collectors. In short, it is endowed with very strong aesthetic and technical arguments.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Chronograph

Watch enthusiasts will have realised already that everything about this contemporary timepiece is a tribute to the best of the watchmaking tradition. For a start, there is the legendary 1141 calibre column-wheel chronograph, a movement that has become so famous that it has joined the ranks of Vacheron Constantin classics.

Recognised by all the experts as one of the most technically and aesthetically accomplished movements and equipped with a magnificent balance reminiscent of the 1940’s, the manual-winding 1141 calibre is reserved for exceptional models. This valuable addition to the Patrimony Traditionnelle line has been housed in the collection’s characteristically classic case, unpretentious and extremely elegant.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Chronograph

Another distinguishing feature of this new Vacheron Constantin chronograph is its silvered opaline dial with two counters characteristic of the 1940’s, the chronograph’s golden age. The 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock and the small seconds at 9 o’clock give the dial perfect balance.

The Manufacture’s designers have taken full advantage of the case’s impressive 42-mm diameter to guarantee optimum legibility of all the indications, including the tachometer scale on the dial rim. The 18K pink gold case has been tested for water-resistance to a pressure of 3 Bar, the equivalent of 30 metres.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Chronograph

Like the other models in this line, it has a sapphire crystal back through which one can admire the unique and characteristic geometry of the manual-winding 1141 chronograph movement and its exemplary finishing. The 1141 also has a 48-hour power reserve.

Technical details

Model: Patrimony Traditionnelle Chronograph
Reference: 47192/000R-9352

Movement
Calibre 1141
Energy:Mechanical, manual-winding
Height of movement:5.6 mm
Diameter of movement:27.00 mm
Jewels:21 rubies
Frequency:18’000 vibrations/hour
Power-reserve:Approx. 45 hours

Indications
Hours, Minutes
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Column-wheel chronograph
30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
Centre chronograph hand

Case
18K 5N pink gold
42 mm in diameter
Sapphire with anti-reflective coating on the inside, convex
Back transparent, sapphire crystal, screwed-down
Water-resistance:3 bar, equivalent to 30 metres

Dial
Silvered opaline
Finely snailed counters at 3 and 9 o’clock
Black painted minute-track

Strap
Brown hand-stitched, saddle-finish,square-scaled alligator leather
Clasp:18K 5N pink gold folding clasp, polished half Maltese cross

Vacheron Constantin 38 mm Patrimony Traditionnelle

A tribute to the timepieces made by the Manufacture from the 1930’s to the 1950’s, the new 38 mm Patrimony Traditionnelle is part of a true horological tradition.

Its pure lines and harmonious proportions are a strong assertion of its classic character. With its fine bezel, knurled case middle, screw-down sapphire crystal back, faceted trapezoid hourmarkers, dauphine hands and multi-toned dial, this new model sublimates the identifying aesthetic features of the Patrimony Traditionnelle line.

Vacheron Constantin 38 mm Patrimony Traditionnelle

At the heart of its case lies Vacheron Constantin’s new manual-winding 4400 calibre, designed and manufactured in toto by the brand’s Research & Development Department in the Joux Valley. Thanks to its impressive barrel, this new movement has a power reserve of approximately 65 hours. It displays the hours and minutes as well as a small seconds at 6 o’clock. And in addition to Vacheron Constantin’s exceptional finishing – always discreet and simple in appearance – the 4400 calibre is stamped with the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva.

Conceived in the purest Haute Horlogerie tradition but developed with today’s cutting-edge technology, the new manual-winding 4400 calibre is distinguished by its 12.5’’’ (28.50 mm) diameter, a size specially designed for contemporary cases.

Vacheron Constantin 38 mm Patrimony Traditionnelle

Vacheron Constantin’s designers and watchmakers used this dimension to create the perfect combination of technique and aesthetics. Complying with the twelve criteria required for the Hallmark of Geneva, this new movement meets the even higher demands of decoration and finishing.

True to the Vacheron Constantin tradition, all the surfaces of the plate, bridges and other major components are hand-decorated, including those that are not visible. Such quality hand-finishing is an integral part of Vacheron Constantin’s philosophy and distinguishes all its movements.

Vacheron Constantin 38 mm Patrimony Traditionnelle

A contemporary testimony to the most authentic watchmaking tradition, this new Patrimony Traditionnelle timepiece comes in a 38-mm 18K pink gold case. The manual-winding movement and its finishing can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback.

Technical details

Model: Patrimony Traditionnelle 38mm
Reference: 82172/000R-9382

Movement
Calibre 4400, developed and produced Vacheron Constantin Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva
Energy: mechanical, manual-winding
Height of movement:2.8 mm
Diameter of movement:28.50 mm
Jewels:21 rubies
Frequency:28’800 vibrations/hours
Power-reserve: Approx. 65 hours

Indications
Hours, minutes, seconds at 6 o’clock

Case
18K 5N pink gold
38.00 mm in diameter
Sapphire with anti-reflective coating on the inside, convex
Back transparent, sapphire crystal, screwed-down
Water-resistance:3 bar, equivalent to 30 metres

Dial
Silvered opaline
Finely snailed counter at 6 o’clock
Black painted minute-track

Strap
Brown hand-stitched, saddle-finish, square-scaled alligator leather
Clasp: Buckle in 18K 5N pink gold, polished half Maltese cross

Vacheron Constantin Skeleton Patrimony Traditionnelle

Only the combination of several traditional Haute Horlogerie crafts could give life to such works of art. Using transparency and light to transform a watch movement into an aerial ballet of pierced bridges and gear-trains is an art that Vacheron Constantin mastered long ago, an art requiring complementary skills: that of the master watchmaker to master the mechanical demands, and that of the master engraver to reveal the quintessence of the movement.

The Vacheron Constantin Manufacture has made full use of these skills in the new skeleton models being added to the Patrimony Traditionnelle line in 2009. These come in two sizes – 38 mm and 30 mm – and with two different movements offered in diamond-set or plain versions.

Vacheron Constantin Skeleton Patrimony Traditionnelle

The aesthetic features of the Patrimony Traditionnelle line are safeguarded thanks to the engraver’s meticulous piercing and decorating work on the precious extra-flat mechanical movement. Adding light to transparency, the sapphire dial – with painted minute-track and 18K white gold hourmarkers and dauphine hands – reveals the fascinating mechanical motion of the movement and its imperturbable heartbeat.

Vacheron Constantin Skeleton Patrimony Traditionnelle

The 38-mm 18K white gold cases house the automatic 1120 SQ calibre, which is stamped with the highly esteemed Hallmark of Geneva. This remarkable calibre was made in 1967 and is only 2.45 mm thick, an exceptional feat for an automatic movement. The jewellery version scintillates with 82 round diamonds on its bezel.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Openworked Large Size
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Openworked Large Size

The 30-mm versions, on the other hand, house the manual-winding 1003 SQ calibre, which is also stamped with the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva. Only 1.64 mm thick, it was introduced in 1955. The jewellery version features 64 round diamonds on its bezel.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Openworked Small Size 
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Openworked Small Size

Technical details

Model: Patrimony Traditionnelle Openworked Large Size
Reference: 43578/000G-9393

Movement
Calibre 1120 SQ, developed and produced Vacheron Constantin, Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva
Energy: Mechanical, self-winding
Height of movement: 2.45 mm
Diameter of movement: 28.00 mm
Jewels: 36 rubies
Frequency: 19’800 vibrations/hour
Indications: Hours, minutes
Power-reserve: Approx. 40 hours

Case
18K white gold
38.00 mm in diameter
Bezel set with 82 brilliant-cut diamonds, total weight of approx. 0.46 ct
Water-resistance: 3 bar, equivalent to 30 metres

Dial
12 applied hour-makers in 18K white gold; Black painted exterior minute-track

Strap
Black hand-stitched, saddle-finish, square-scaled alligator leather
Clasp: 18K white gold buckle, polished half Maltese cross

Model: Patrimony Traditionnelle Openworked Small Size
Reference: 33558/000G-9394

Movement
Calibre 1003 SQ, developed and produced Vacheron Constantin, Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva
Energy: Mechanical, manual-winding
Height of movement: 1.64 mm
Diameter of movement: 20.80 mm
Jewels: 18 rubies
Frequency: 18’000 vibrations/hours
Indications: Hours, minutes
Power-reserve: Approx. 30 hours

Case
18K white gold; 30.00 mm in diameter
Bezel set with 64 brilliant-cut diamonds, total weight of approx. 0.36 ct
Water-resistance: 3 bar, equivalent to 30 metres

Dial
12 applied hour-makers in 18K white gold; Black painted exterior minute-track

Strap
Black hand-stitched, saddle-finish, square-scaled alligator leather
Clasp: 18K white buckle with polished half Maltese cross

Vacheron Constantin Jewellery Patrimony Traditionnelle

When the best of Haute Horlogerie marries the best of Haute Joaillerie, exceptional timepieces are the natural offspring. So it is with the Geneva Manufacture’s new sparkling additions to the Patrimony Traditionnelle line.

Vacheron Constantin Jewellery Patrimony Traditionnelle

Offered in two different versions – 38 mm and 30 mm – these new diamond-paved jewellery pieces respect the principal aesthetic features of the Patrimony Traditionnelle line. With their remarkable jewellery-setting and impressive lines, these exceptional pieces open up new horizons in the world of precious Haute Horlogerie.

Vacheron Constantin Jewellery Patrimony Traditionnelle

Set with 473 diamonds (totalling 1.67 carats) on the dial and 167 diamonds (totalling 1.27 carats) on the 18K white gold case, as well as a diamond on the crown, the larger version houses Vacheron Constantin’s 1400 calibre, a manual-winding mechanical movement stamped with the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva.

Vacheron Constantin Jewellery Patrimony Traditionnelle

Technical details

Model: Patrimony Traditionnelle, Fully-paved, Large Size
Reference: 81579/000G-9274

Movement
Calibre 1400 SS, developed and produced Vacheron Constantin Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva Energy: Mechanical, manual-winding
Height of movement: 2.6 mm
Diameter of movement: 20.35 mm
Jewels: 20 rubies
Frequency: 28’800 vibrations/hour
Indications: Hours, minutes
Power-reserve: Approx. 40 hours

Case
18K white gold
38.00 mm in diameter
Set with 167 brilliant-cut diamonds, total weight of approx. 1.16 ct;1 brilliant-cut diamond on the crown, total weight of approx. 0.05 ct
Sapphire with anti-reflective coating on the inside, convex
Water-resistance: 3 bar, equivalent to 30 metres

Dial
18K white gold; Set with 473 brilliant-cut diamonds, total weight of approx. 1.67 ct; 12 applied hour-makers in 18K white gold

Strap
Black hand-stitched, saddle-finish, square-scaled alligator leather
Clasp: 18K white gold buckle, half Maltese cross, set with 27 brilliant-cut diamonds, total weight of approx. 0.26 ct.

The new smaller 30-mm Patrimony Traditionnelle comes with a quartz 1202 movement and in several versions:

  • One shimmering diamond-paved version, with 264 diamonds (totalling 0.92 carats) on the dial and 131 diamonds (totalling 0.79 carats) on the 18K white gold case.
  • Two more lightly-set versions, with 24 diamonds (totalling 0.04 carats) on the hourmarkers and 64 diamonds (totalling 0.42 carats) on the bezel, and an 18K white or pink gold case.

Vacheron Constantin Malte Collection Edition 2003 – Malte Tourbillon, Malte Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, Malte Dual Time Regulator, Malte Large-Calendar Selfwinding and Malte for Women

As one of the principal artisans of Geneva’s long and distinguished horological traditions, Vacheron Constantin possesses a vast and varied portfolio of achievements in which it finds inspiration for its contemporary timepieces. The Malte Collection is a case in point.

Conceived as the coming “reference” in the company’s product range, it embodies a full measure of its watchmakers’ creative powers and craftsmanship. Its full-bodied good looks and advanced technology give the collection special status as the epitome of the Vacheron Constantin spirit.

Taken from the company’s “Maltese cross” corporate symbol, the collection’s name reflects its preeminence. Incorporating the accumulated expertise of generations of inspired watchmakers, every Malte collection model reflects contemporary design at its fullest and finest, enhanced with particularly sophisticated time technology.

From the many elaborate functions of a “Grande Complication” timepiece to arresting, diamond-clad creations for some of the world’s most elegant women, Malte models express the soul and the spirit of Vacheron Constantin’s approach to watch design.

Nothing looks like a Malte watch except another Malte design—if only because of their styling’s aesthetic originality. Every Malte watch case, for instance, includes broad, stepped bracelet attachments (or “horns”) that add unique personality to the design’s sleekly rounded proportions. The crown, for its part, features a novel, stylized interpretation of Vacheron Constantin’s “Maltese cross” corporate symbol.

Furthermore, sword-shaped watch hands give every Malte dial face a stylish, definitely contemporary character. A demanding craft in its own right, high-level watchmaking calls for specialist know-how available today only from a handful of manufacturers; they alone possess both the human and material resources as well as the professional motivation to turn out truly memorable timepieces.

Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon

In 1795, the invention of the tourbillon regulator provided an astute if technically demanding solution to the problems caused by the pull of gravity on mechanical devices of every description. It consists of a mobile “cage”, or carriage, containing the movement’s regulating system – the balance and its spring plus the escapement.

Rotating on itself with utter regularity, the tourbillon subjects the regulating system to continuous positional changes over 360°, thus offsetting the effects, appreciable over time, of the pull of gravity on the movement’s regulating organs, hence on its precision.

Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon

The design and construction of a tourbillon movement remains as technically challenging as ever, although Vacheron Constantin’s expert watchmakers at its workshops in the Vallée de Joux, where Switzerland and the world’s finest watches are made, were happy to come up with the new caliber 1790 tonneau-shaped hand-wound tourbillon movement.

In addition to its tourbillon regulator, this newcomer to the company’s proprietary movements includes a power-reserve indicator along with a pointer-type circular calendar.

The “Côtes de Genève” decorative pattern, the meticulous chamfering by hand of the bridges’ angles and edges, the movement’s engraved individual production number—such painstaking finish confirm that Vacheron Constantin’s remarkable new movement was indeed made from start to finish in the company’s own workshops. Brush-finished at center and engine-turned at the edges, its sunray-patterned, silvered dial features applied gold hour markers while the tourbillon carriage holder bears Vacheron Constantin’s “Maltese cross” corporate symbol.

Water-resistant to 30 m (100 feet), the Malte Tourbillon watch’s tonneau-shaped case is fashioned in a choice of 18K pink 5N gold and 950 platinum. A dome-shaped sapphire crystal protects the dial while a transparent sapphire back, secured by screws, reveals the impeccably finished movement’s gleaming dance.

The case comes with a padded and hand-stitched alligator mississipiensis strap fitted with a matching precious-metal buckle.

Vacheron Constantin Malte Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

From the earliest design in 1862 to the present day, chronographs required well over a century to achieve their current excellence. Depending on their specifications, today’s chronographs can measure, record and display time spans ranging from split seconds to many hours. Still, their design and production remains the preserve of a few particularly experienced makers.

Vacheron Constantin’s caliber 1141 QP hand-wound chronograph movement is equipped with a 30-minute totalizer and a chronograph seconds hand—both actioned via a traditional column-wheel construction. But this remarkable movement has far more to offer, not least a full perpetual calendar. The day of the week and the month are shown in separate dial apertures positioned under 12 o’clock on the dial; framing the hand-made moonphase indicator in gold, the circular date calendar’s pointer adjusts automatically to the number of days in the current month while leap years appear in a dial window at two o’clock.

Vacheron Constantin Malte Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

The movement itself is finished with care bordering on perfection: decorative “côtes de Genève” pattern, bridges shaped and chamfered by hand, parallel files strokes on its edges, individually polished screw heads… All chronograph, time and calendar functions appear on an opaline silvered dial with applied gold hour markers, protected by a dome-shaped sapphire crystal.

Designed and made with Vacheron Constantin’s traditionally meticulous craftsmanship, the Malte chronograph’s round case is fashioned in a choice of 18K yellow 3N gold or 950 platinum. Its frame features two pushpieces to action the chronograph and with four correctors flush with the case surface for adjusting and correcting the perpetual calendar.

Its “officer” type case back – engraved at its owner’s discretion with the inscription of his choice – opens to reveal the movement, visible through a sapphire back plate. The padded and hand-stitched alligator mississipiensis strap comes equipped with a standard buckle in gold or platinum.

Vacheron Constantin Malte Dual Time Regulator

Initially built to determine, check and compare the accuracy of standard watches, the regulator’s design owes much to the inventive genius of Ferdinand Berthoud (1727 – 1807), watchmaker to the king of France and horologist to the French Navy.

Designed as a navigational instrument and technically patterned on the regulator, the marine chronometer featured separate staffs for the hour, the minute and the seconds hands. This constructional approach lessened the amount of mechanical energy required to drive the gears, thereby reducing friction and improving the movement’s long-term precision.

Vacheron Constantin Malte Dual Time Regulator

The Vacheron Constantin caliber 1206 RDT selfwinding movement equipping the Dual Time Regulator was of course designed and built on these principles. Its exceptional endurance and accuracy have earned it an official chronometer certificate issued by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Authority (COSC).

A subdial with 24-hour graduations at 9 o’clock on the dial provides the time in a second timezone, while a circular pointer-type date calendar frames the subdial for the seconds at 6 o’clock. What’s more, the movement’s maximum power reserve exceeds 60 hours.

Vacheron Constantin Malte Dual Time Regulator

As with every Vacheron Constantin proprietary caliber, the Malte Regulator’s movement features decorative “côtes de Genève” patterning and all bridge angles and edges have been patiently chamfered by hand.In addition to gold hour markers, the dial’s matt silvered background bears black painted Arabic and Roman numerals.

The frame of the Regulator’s round case features a pushpiece opposite 11 o’clock that actions the second-timezone indicator while a corrector for the calendar is situated flush with the case side between 4 and 5 o’clock. Water-resistant to 30 m (100 feet), the case is available in 18K white or 3N yellow gold. Its easily and discreetly engraved “officer” type case back opens to reveal the movement and its 18K oscillating weight, protected by a transparent sapphire back plate.

Vacheron Constantin Malte Dual Time Regulator

A padded and hand-stitched alligator mississipiensis strap fitted with a standard buckle in gold rounds out a timepiece whose original dial layout and unusual movement design contribute in no small measure to its exceptional character.

Vacheron Constantin Malte Large-Calendar Selfwinding

Alongside intricate masterpieces of watchmaking at its finest, the Malte collection comprises attractive designs in the contemporary spirit—not least the Malte Large-Calendar Selfwinding watch.

Eminently practical for everyday use, this thoroughly masculine design features a date calendar whose twin apertures at 6 o’clock on the dial display generously oversized figures providing an instant and effortless reading of the time even in dim light.

Vacheron Constantin Malte Large-Calendar Selfwinding

It is equipped with a Vacheron Constantin caliber 1204 selfwinding movement supplying over 60 hours of reserve power. Its technical excellence has furthermore earned it official chronometer certification from the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Authority (COSC). Decorated with a “côtes de Genève” pattern, the movement is equipped with an oscillating weight in 18K gold.

Vacheron Constantin Malte Large-Calendar Selfwinding

Fashioned in 18K white or 3N yellow gold and water-resistant to 30 m (100 feet), its round case is equipped with a transparent sapphire back plate, secured by screws, as well as a dome-shaped sapphire crystal protecting an opaline silvered or black oxidized dial with painted Arabic numerals for both hours and minutes.

Vacheron Constantin Malte Large-Calendar Selfwinding

The case comes with a padded and hand-stitched alligator mississipiensis strap fitted with a standard buckle in gold.

Vacheron Constantin Malte for Women

Malte designs for women add to the collection the alluring charm of a case subtly redesigned to match the elegance of the world’s most graceful wrists and a dial whose irresistible personality owes a great deal to the size, shape and position of its painted Arabic numerals.

Water-resistant to 30 m (100 feet), their case features a back plate tightly secured by screws. Malte designs for women come either in white or 3N yellow 18K gold with bezel and crown enhanced with Top Wesselton diamonds or in white 18K gold with case entirely pavéd with Top Wesselton diamonds.

Vacheron Constantin Malte for Women diamond set watch

Along with the hours and minutes, a caliber 1207 quartz movement displays the date in a dial window at 6 o’clock. It too naturally features a “côtes de Genève” decorative pattern.

All Malte designs for women are equipped with a choice of padded and hand-stitched strap in alligator mississipiensis fitted with a standard buckle in matching gold or with a smoothly articulated link bracelet in white or yellow gold fitted with an invisible deployment clasp.

BLANCPAIN Quattro Limited Edition

Launched in 2001 in a limited series of 50 watches, the BLANCPAIN Quattro is an haute horlogerie creation that incorporates four watch-making complications: an automatic movement, a chronograph with a flyback function, split seconds, tourbillon and a perpetual calendar.

Crafted in 18 carat gold, the automatic movement that beats inside this complication watch is visible on the back of the case in 18-carat gold through sapphire crystal. The silvered opaline dial with has Roman hour-markers and leaf hands.

BLANCPAIN Quattro Limited Edition

The dial has three subdials: A subdial at 12’o clock displays month and leap year; subdial at 9’o clock incorporates 12 hour chronograph counter and the day of the week indication and finally the subdial at 3’o clock incorporates 30 minutes chronograph counter and date indication.

The BLANCPAIN Perpetual Calendar Split-Seconds Flyback Chronograph Tourbillon Automatic watch watch is fitted with a crocodile leather strap.

Technical details

Model: BLANCPAIN Quattro

Movement
Mechanical, automatically-wound, 39 rubies, hand-engraved oscillating weight

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, flyback chronograph, split seconds, perpetual calendar, tourbillon, 40-hour power reserve

Case
750 (18K) gold
Spherical sapphire crystal
Flat sapphire crystal back
Water-resistant to 50 m

Dial
Silvered opaline with Roman hour-markers, leaf hands

Strap
Louisiana crocodile and black square scales, tone-on-tone stitching