Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication Watch – New Black and White Ceramic Models

Presented at SIHH 2018, the new 44mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication watch models feature ceramic push-pieces and crowns, push-piece guards, cases, and case-backs for a high tech metal look.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication Watch – New Black Ceramic Model

Black ceramic is reinforced with yttrium oxide, making it seven times harder than steel. White ceramic on the other hand is reinforced with aluminium oxide which gives it a high gloss finish and makes it even harder than black ceramic and nine times harder than steel.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication Watch – New White Ceramic Model

Equipped with the Manufacture Calibre 2885 automatic movement, the new Audemars Piguet grand complication watch incorporates Minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and split-seconds chronograph.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication Watch – New Black Ceramic Model

The new ceramic editions of the AP Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication watch come fitted with black or white rubber strap with titanium pin buckle.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication Watch – New White Ceramic ModelTechnical details

Model: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication

Movement
Self-winding Manufacture Calibre 2885
Total diameter 31.60mm (14 lignes)
Total thickness 8.55mm
Number of jewels 52
Number of parts 648
Minimal guaranteed power reserve 45h
Frequency of balance wheel 2.75Hz (=19,800 vibrations/hour)

Functions
Minute repeater, perpetual calendar, chronograph, split-seconds chronograph

Reference: 26582CB.OO.A010CA.01
– Case: White ceramic case, 44mm, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, white ceramic and titanium push-pieces and crown, white ceramic push-piece guards, water-resistant to 20m
– Dial: Sapphire dial, white counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands, silver-toned inner bezel
– Bracelet: White rubber strap with titanium pin buckle

Reference: 26582CE.OO.A002CA.01
– Case: Black ceramic case, 44mm, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, black ceramic and titanium push-pieces and crown, black ceramic push-piece guards, water-resistant to 20m
– Dial: Sapphire dial, black counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands, black inner bezel
– Bracelet: Black rubber strap with titanium pin buckle

A. Lange & Söhne Grand Complication Watch in Pink Gold with Enamel Dial, Ref. 912.032

German luxury watch manufacture A. Lange & Söhne unveils a limited edition grand complication watch, which is considered as the most complicated and most exclusive timepiece by the revered watch brand based in Saxony.

The Grand Complication features a host of fascinating functions and yet again manifests the ability of the Saxon master watchmakers to conquer ever new peaks with their undisputed ingenuity.

This masterpiece comes with the most elaborate complications which the art of haute horlogerie has to offer: Chiming mechanism with grand and small strike, minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph with minute counter and flying seconds as well as a perpetual calendar with moon-phase display.

A. Lange & Söhne GRAND COMPLICATION watch in pink gold, Ref. 912.032

This Lange grand complication watch in pink gold is available in a limited edition of six pieces only.

Chiming mechanism with grand and small strike, minute repeater

Two carefully hand-wrought gongs produce the seductive tones of the minute repeater and of the hour and quarter-hour strikes. The A. Lange & Söhne Grand Complication watch is endowed with a chiming mechanism that automatically indicates the time in the grand strike (grande sonnerie) or small strike (petite sonnerie) modes.

Every fifteen minutes, when set to grande sonnerie, it first indicates the full hour on the low-pitched gong and then the quarter-hours with a double strike on both gongs. In the petite sonnerie mode, it indicates the elapsed quarter-hours with one, two, or three double strikes on both gongs. At the top of every hour, it strikes the time in hours on the low-pitched gong.

The chiming mechanism is powered by one of a total of three mainspring barrels. They are wound with the crown. Turning the crown clockwise tensions the springs for the going train and the chronograph. The chiming mechanism barrel is wound in the opposite direction.

When the slide in the case flank is actuated, the minute repeater indicates the time on demand with two gongs: The hours sound with low-pitched tones, the quarter-hours with double-tone strikes, and the minutes with high-pitched tones. At 7:52, for instance, the melody consists of seven low tones, three double strikes, and seven high tones.

Monopusher Chronograph with Rattrapante Function & Flying Seconds

The chronograph of the A. Lange & Söhne Grand Complication is a monopusher type (chronographe monopoussoir) with a rattrapante function and flying seconds (seconde foudroyante). This rare supplementary function makes it possible to freeze stopped times to fifths of a second. A blued-steel hand on the lower subsidiary dial performs five jumps to complete each revolution along its five-second scale while the chronograph is running. Thus, the hand precisely emulates the balance frequency of 2.5 Hz.

A gold chronograph hand and a blued-steel rattrapante hand for stopping lap times sweep the main dial from the centre. They begin to run, together with the flying seconds, as soon as the pusher between 1 and 2 o’clock is pressed. After each revolution of the sweep hands, the minute counter hand in the dial at 12 o’clock advances by one interval.

When the pusher between 10 and 11 o’clock is activated, the blued-steel split-seconds hand will stop to indicate the lap time while the gold chronograph hand continues running. When the pusher in the left-hand flank of the case is pressed again, the split-seconds hand instantly catches up and then remains realigned with the chronograph hand.

When the right-hand pusher is actuated, all four chronograph hands will stop. Pushing the button a second time resets them all to zero. Both mechanisms are precisely and reliably controlled in the classic manner via two column wheels – one each for the chronograph and rattrapante functions.

Perpetual Calendar

The perpetual calendar mechanism emulates the Gregorian calendar. Not only does it know how many days each month has in the course of a year, it is also aware of the fact that February has 29 days in leap years. The mechanism first needs to be corrected by one day in the year 2100. This is because of special rule in the Gregorian calendar which stipulates that the leap year is omitted if the year is divisible by 100. The duration of each month is coded into a 48-segment wheel with recesses that are mechanically sampled by the date switching lever. The deeper the sampled recess, the shorter the current month.

Another special feature of the calendar is that it advances all displays, with the exception of the moon phase, at midnight. The calendar indications are positioned at 3, 9 and 12 o’clock. The subdial on the left indicates the date, the upper one the month in the four-year cycle, and the one at right the day of the week. The upper half of the flying seconds dial exposes the blue-enamelled, solid-gold moon disc that precisely tracks the synodic lunation of the earth’s companion.

The A. Lange & Söhne Grand Complication features a multi-part white enamel dial with Arabic numerals, a railway-track minute scale, and the four characteristic, symmetrically arranged subsidiary dials. A suite of time-consuming process steps is needed for each of the five dial elements to assure the flawless appearance of the composite dial. The heart of the exclusive manually wound movement is a balance that beats with a frequency of 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour.

As a tribute to Ferdinand A. Lange, who established Saxony’s watchmaking heritage, the watch incorporates a Glashütte lever escapement based on one of his early inventions. Its lever and escape wheel are made of hardened 18-carat gold. The lever is designed to be in perfect equilibrium.

A slight camber of the covered pallets prevents any adhesion with the escape wheel. The perfect execution of these intricate design features contributes to the enhanced rate accuracy of the watch. The oscillator is paired with a balance spring crafted in-house. When the mainspring is fully wound, it delivers a power reserve of 30 hours.

All parts of the complex manual winding movement are manufactured and lavishly finished by hand to the strictest Lange quality criteria. At several points, Lange’s master watchmakers took the amount of work invested in finissage to unprecedented levels: For example, all chronograph levers are black-polished.

The exclusive collectors’ item in the 50mm diameter 18K pink gold case comes in a limited edition of six watches.

Technical details

Model: A. Lange & Söhne GRAND COMPLICATION, Ref. 912.032

Movement
Lange manufacture calibre L1902, manually wound, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards, decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; plates and bridges made of untreated German silver; balance cock engraved by hand; chronograph levers black-polished
Jewels: 67
Screwed gold chatons: 7
Escapement: Glashütte lever escapement, lever and escape wheel in 18-carat gold
Oscillator: Shock-resistant screw balance, superior-quality balance spring manufactured in-house, frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour, precision index tail adjustment system with lateral setscrew and whiplash spring

Power reserve when fully wound
-Going train: 30 hours
-Grand strike: 30 hours
-Small strike: 42 hours

Functions
Time display with hours and minutes; chiming mechanism with grand and small strike; minute repeater; split-seconds chronograph with minute counter and flying seconds; perpetual calendar with date, day of week, month in four-year cycle; moon phase

Operating elements
Crown for winding the watch and setting the time; one pusher each for operating the chronograph and the rattrapante mechanism; lever for activating and deactivating the chiming mechanism; lever for selecting small and grand strike; slide for actuating the minute repeater; correction push pieces for advancing the date, day of week, month, and moon phase

Movement dimensions
Diameter: 40.5 millimetres; height: 14.2 millimetres

Case
Case material: Pink gold
Diameter: 50.0 millimetres
Height: 20.3 millimetres
Crystal and caseback: Sapphire crystal (hardness 9)

Dial
Five-part enamel dial
Hands: Pink gold; minute counter, rattrapante hand and flying se-conds hand blued steel

Strap
Hand-stitched crocodile strap, red-brown
Buckle: Lange deployant buckle in pink gold

Image Credit: Lange Uhren GmbH

Patek Philippe Triple Complication in Platinum, Ref. 5208P

This year, Swiss luxury watch brand Patek Philippe unveils Ref. 5208P, a self-winding Grand Complication wristwatch with minute repeater, monopusher chronograph, instantaneous perpetual calendar with apertures, and moon phases.

The new Patek Philippe Triple Complication Ref. 5208P is a perfect example for Geneva based brand’s leadership and know how in the segment of Grand complication watches. It is the second triple complication model launched by the privately owned watch manufacture with in a short span of time.

In 2008, the brand successfully launched the Ref. 5207 Triple complication watch with a minute repeater, instantaneous perpetual calendar with aperture displays, and tourbillion. This year, Patek Philippe launches Ref. 5208P Triple Complication watch with a chronograph, minute repeater, and instantaneous calendar with aperture displays.

The new Ref. 5208P is one of the very few existing highly complicated watches with a self winding movement. Finally, it is the first true Grand Complication that integrates silicon-derived Silinvar® components: the revolutionary Pulsomax® escapement and the Spiromax® balance spring.

Patek Philippe Triple Complication in Platinum, Ref. 5208P

In the current collection of Patek Philippe’s Grand Complication wristwatches, the Ref. 5208P ranks second, directly behind the Sky Moon Tourbillon, and before the Ref. 5207 (minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar with aperture displays) and the Ref. 5216 (minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar with retrograde date).

Combining a self-winding minute repeater movement with a chronograph mechanism and an instantaneous perpetual calendar with aperture display was a huge challenge for the caliber engineers and master watchmakers. The self-winding basic movement with the minute repeater mechanism did not allow the arbors of the chronograph to extend through the strike train from the back.

On the other hand, the date, day, and month disks of the calendar must lie directly beneath the dial to assure the best possible legibility of the aperture displays. The only solution was to configure the chronograph between the repeater and calendar mechanisms. But even then, further difficulties presented themselves.

The challenge was so monumental that the caliber engineers were relieved to have access to the manufacture’s profound repository of experience. It was this know-how which made it possible to arrange the total of 701 individual parts in such a way that all functions harmonize flawlessly and dependably.

The Monopusher Chronograph

Patek Philippe has always emphasized the aesthetic appeal of a timepiece in the development of new movements, and it is a mandatory criterion of the Patek Philippe Seal. For this reason, the chronograph mechanism with its column wheel and the horizontal clutch had to be made extremely thin to fit the space between the movement and the instantaneous perpetual calendar.

In this respect, the Patek Philippe portfolio is a rich source: the caliber CH R 27-525 PS is the world’s thinnest splitseconds chronograph movement with column-wheel control. It contributed the friction drives for the minute and hour counters that are not only very thin but also offset the torque differences between the coupled and uncoupled states of the chronograph, assuring that the amplitude of the balance remains consistent in every operating mode.

Patek Philippe Triple Complication in Platinum, Ref. 5208P

Additionally, the toothing profiles of the chronograph wheels, also derived from this record-breaking movement, reduce wear and increase power transmission efficiency.

Conversely, the patented self-setting hammers and brake levers were borrowed from the new CH 29- 535 chronograph movement. They automatically assure the optimum lever position relative to the respective counterpart without requiring that the individual contact surfaces must be ground to a few hundredths of a millimeter in a time-consuming process.

Thanks to innovations of this kind and to the classic column-wheel and clutch-wheel control design, the overall height of the chronograph mechanism was reduced to 2.4 mm. The result is a three-phase chronograph with a monopusher at 2 o’clock that executes the start, stop, and reset commands when actuated in succession.

The seconds and fractions of a second are measured with the large sweep chronograph hand while the continuously running counters at 3 and 9 o’clock display the elapsed time on a 60-minute and a 12-hour scale.

Instantaneous Perpetual Calendar with Aperture Displays

The basics of its construction bears similarities with the Ref. 5207 launched in 2008, but the mechanism had to be extensively redesigned to accommodate the chronograph functions.

Because the chronograph mechanism is layered between the calendar and the movement proper, it was not possible to simply route the cannon pinion through the chronograph wheel into the calendar module with the standard time and calendar data displays. For this reason, a detour had to be designed for the cannon pinion.

Given the tight space conditions within the chronograph mechanism, it was a delicate task, and a considerable amount of research had to be conducted to develop the best possible solution. The cannon pinion is severed above the basic movement with the minute repeater.

Patek Philippe Triple Complication in Platinum, Ref. 5208P

Its rotary motion is laterally shifted before it is transmitted through the chronograph mechanism, but then routed back to the center in the calendar mechanism which drives the hour and minute hands, the calendar displays, the day/night indication, and the moon phases. However, the subsidiary seconds hand is powered directly by an arbor that extends straight into the subdial at 6 o’clock.

To distribute the force in the calendar module as economically as possible with the objective of assuring that all calendar displays will advance instantaneously and simultaneously at midnight ±2 minutes, the patented mechanisms of the Ref. 5207 were modified to match the new configuration of the movement.

Considering that the disks for the aperture displays have much larger masses than hands, this was anything but a trivial task. A large, 15-part yoke makes sure that all calendar displays are advanced by one day at the very same moment.

Additionally, an arrangement with two complementary lever springs that act in different directions assures that the switching force always remains constant despite considerable travel differences from the single-day jump at the end of months with 31 days to the four-day jump at the end of February when a non-leap year begins. This precludes incomplete switching cycles to a force deficit or overrides due to excessive force reserves.

The Minute Repeater

Given the fact that the Patek Philippe Triple Complication Ref. 5208 was endowed with an elaborate mechanism which instantaneously switches the calendar indications, the time display deserves special attention as well. Thus, the caliber R CH 27 PS QI movement not only has hour, minute, and seconds hands, it also features a minute repeater that indicates the progression of time with gentle yet distinctly audible sonority.

The minute repeater is considered among experts to be the queen of complications. With a mechanism composed of filigreed racks and snails, tiny hammers, and delicate, freely suspended gongs in the confined space of a wristwatch, it demands the utmost of skill from the watchmaker. In over 172 years, Patek Philippe has advanced the art of repeater timepieces to an unmatched degree of perfection.

When the owner of a Ref. 5208P actuates the slide, the result is a reverberant experience: first, the watch counts the elapsed hours on a low-pitched gong, then the number of quarter-hours with double strikes on both gongs, and finally the number of minutes that have passed since the last quarter-hour on the high-pitched gong.

Many years of research were invested in finding the best possible steel alloy as well as in developing the shape and attachment points for the gongs – insights that are carefully safeguarded like state secrets. Among connoisseurs, the tonality perfected by the manufacture is deemed unsurpassed by any other wristwatch minute repeater.

This sound quality – the manufacture’s acoustic signature – is individually analyzed for each watch in a soundproof echo chamber and compared with numerous digitized sound parameters. But because the impression of resonance is always very subjective, every Patek Philippe minute repeater is also personally judged by President Thierry Stern or Honorary President Philippe Stern. They listen to the melody several times and then decide whether the exceptional timepiece is ready for delivery or must be returned to the workshops for acoustic optimization.

The Silicon Revolution: Pulsomax® escapement and Spiromax® balance spring made of Silinvar®

Even though the sapphire-crystal case back of the new Ref. 5208P does not reveal the exciting realm of a chronograph mechanism, it does showcase a remarkable sight: the first Pulsomax® escapement and Spiromax® balance spring made of Silinvar® ever to be integrated into a Patek Philippe Grand Complication.

Developed within the scope of the Patek Philippe Advanced Research program, the new components made of Silinvar®, a silicon derivative, have patented functional features that make them ideal for powering a coup de maître like the new caliber R CH 27 PS QI precisely, reliably, and continuously.

Thanks to the excellent material properties of Silinvar® (hard, lightweight, nearly friction-free, antimagnetic, corrosion-resistant) and the ingenious patent-protected part geometries, the efficiency of the innovative escapement is about 30% better than a conventional assembly made of steel. The energy gain is tapped entirely for the chronograph functions.

Patek Philippe Triple Complication in Platinum, Ref. 5208P

Elegance and sleek understatement are pivotal hallmarks of Patek Philippe Grand Complication watches. They unite aesthetic design and elaborately engineered mechanisms in a harmonious whole. Legibility is another important criterion; after all, a Patek Philippe watch is always and primarily a timekeeping instrument. Accordingly, it was a considerable challenge to clearly arrange the 12 indications on the charcoal-colored solid-gold sunburst dial with a diameter of less than 40 mm.

Patek Philippe Triple Complication in Platinum, Ref. 5208P

It shows hours, minutes, and seconds of standard time with a day/night indication; elapsed seconds, minutes, and hours of stopped times; the day, date, month, and year of the perpetual calendar; and not least the moon phases.

The architectural result is so convincing that the new Triple Complication Ref. 5208 might at first sight be confused with one of Patek Philippe’s popular Annual Calendars which display the calendar information in three apertures, including a particularly prominent date aperture, at the top of the dial. But the slide in the left-hand side of the case, the monopusher at 2 o’clock, and the two subdials immediately show that more than a perpetual calendar is involved here.

Patek Philippe Triple Complication in Platinum, Ref. 5208P

And owners who are patient enough to wait until midnight can expect a rare extravaganza, especially on New Year’s Eve. That is when, at midnight, the day, date, month, and year displays instantaneously and simultaneously advance to indicate the next following day, date, month, and year.

People who know that movement wheels generally rotate continuously and at a rather leisurely pace can appreciate the fact that this instantaneous change of calendar displays is hardly achievable without an unusually elaborate ensemble of parts.

Patek Philippe Triple Complication in Platinum, Ref. 5208P

And all these parts are accommodated in a case made of 950 platinum. It is not a conventional design with lugs that are integral to the caseband. Instead, it consists of three parts (back, middle, and bezel) that are clenched between and screwed to two clamps. Only this unique construction allowed the lugs to be pierced as resolutely and aesthetically as is the case with the Ref. 5208.

Patek Philippe Triple Complication in Platinum, Ref. 5208P

They add charisma to a fusion masterpiece in which engineering virtuosity, mechanical ingenuity, finishing, materials, and design come together in harmony. It is worn on a strap for which, too, only the best is good enough: Shiny chocolate-brown, hand-stitched alligator leather with square scales, secured with a 950 platinum foldover clasp.

Because of its limited availability, the Ref. 5208P will be sold exclusively in the Patek Philippe Geneva Salons during the introductory phase.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Grand Complication Ref. 5208 in platinum – Minute repeater, monopusher chronograph, instantaneous perpetual calendar with aperture displays, and moon phases

Movement
– Caliber R CH 27 PS QI
– Self-winding mechanical movement, minute repeater and subsidiary seconds.
– Monopusher chronograph with column wheel, chronograph hand, 60-minute and 12-hour counters. Instantaneous perpetual calendar. Day, date, month, and leap-year cycle in apertures, day/night indicator, moon phases.
– Overall diameter: 32 mm (repeater and chronograph 28 mm; instantaneous perpetual calendar 32 mm)
– Height: 10.35 mm
– Number of parts: 701
– Basic movement with minute repeater: 331
– Chronograph mechanism: 160
– Instantaneous perpetual calendar: 210
– Number of jewels: 58
– Power reserve: Max. 48 hours
– Balance: Gyromax®
– Semi-oscillations per hour: 21,600 (3 Hz)
– Balance spring: Spiromax®
– Escapement: Pulsomax® (lever and escape wheel in Silinvar®)
– Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Functions
– Two-position crown at 3 o’clock
– Pulled out: To set the time
– Pushed in: To wind the watch
Pusher: Three-phase chronograph monopusher at 2 o’clock: Start, stop, reset

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Displays
Hours and minutes from the center
Sweep chronograph hand
Subdials at:
– 60-minute counter between 3 and 4 o’clock
– 12-hour counter between 8 and 9 o’clock
– Subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock
Apertures:
– Day between 10 and 11 o’clock in a polished white-gold frame
– Date at 12 o’clock in a polished white-gold frame
– Month between 1 and 2 o’clock in a polished white-gold frame
– Moon phase at 6 o’clock
– Day/night indication between 7 and 8 o’clock
– Leap year cycle between 4 and 5 o’clock

Corrector push pieces:
– Day corrector between 11 and 12 o’clock
– Month corrector between 12 and 1 o’clock
– Moon-phase corrector between 5 and 6 o’clock
– Date corrector between 6 and 7 o’clock

Delivered with correction stylus in ebony and 18K white gold
Slide Minute repeater with strike on low-pitched gong for hours, high/low for quarter-hours, and high for minutes.

Case
– 950 platinum with pieced lugs, platinum back, and interchangeable display back with sapphire-crystal window. Diamond of approx. 0.02 ct.
between the lugs at 6 o’clock
– Dimensions: Diameter 44 mm
– Height: 15.70 mm
– Width between lugs: 22 mm
– Slide: In 950 platinum on the left side of the case to activate the minute repeater

Dial
– 18K gold, sunburst charcoal
– 11 applied “obus” hour markers in 18K white gold
– Dauphine hands in 18K white gold for hours and minutes
– Baton-style counterbalanced chronograph hands, 18K white gold, white lacquered
– Baton-style hands for subsidiary seconds as well as 12-hour and 60-minute counters, 18K white gold, white lacquered
– Railway track scale on dial periphery
– 18K white-gold frame for date aperture, hammered and diamond-polished 18K white-gold frames for day and month apertures, hammered and polished

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny chocolate brown, platinum fold-over clasp

Louis Moinet MAGISTRALIS

Louis Moinet is the world’s first brand to create a watch featuring an authentic piece of the moon. This 2000 year-old lunar meteorite is used for the moon-phase display of the hundred-year old and extremely sophisticated complication movement (including minute repeater, perpetual calendar and single-pusher chronograph functions) powering the MAGISTRALIS.

Louis Moinet MAGISTRALIS

The incredibly complex 5N rose gold and 3N case/18 carat white gold case is composed of 90 different parts, while the presentation box is highly creative in its own right: Louis Moinet introduces the first musical instrument for watches thanks to the watch stand which serves to amplify the sound of the repeater mechanism.

Louis Moinet MAGISTRALIS rose gold model

Finally, an original copy of Louis Moinet’s famous Traité d’Horlogerie sets the final dream touch to the fascinating history of this watch. Magistralis is an extraordinary watch representing the expert craftsmanship of the time-honoured art of Haute Horlogerie. It is one of a kind, unlike any other, and will never be repeated.

Louis Moinet MAGISTRALIS

The movement was created a hundred years ago. Designed in the Vallée de Joux, it was made in Geneva and bears the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. It beats at 18,000 vibrations per hour and features a (double-bladed) self-compensating balance and a flame-blued Breguet balance spring. Its flat-polished moustache lever escapement is hand chamfered and mounted on an endstone.

Louis Moinet MAGISTRALIS movement

The chronograph

The single-button column-wheel chronograph (6 columns) has a spring-assisted lever. The instantaneous jumping minute hand, a very distinctive mechanism, operates by means of a cam.

Louis Moinet MAGISTRALIS Minute repeater, Perpetual calendar and Single-pusher chronograph

The function of the cam is to load the minute lever by means of constant friction, thereby stabilising regulator operation (by avoiding loss of amplitude) when the chronograph function is activated. This technique is no longer used now, given the complexity of its entirely manual fine-tuning.

The striking mechanism

The striking mechanism comprises two hammers that sound the hours, quarter-hours and minutes, as well as an “all or nothing” lever. The mechanism for activating the striking mechanism is operated by pressing a lever, so as to facilitate handling of the repeater slide, which is always a delicate operation on traditional watches.

The making of a striking mechanism will always remain a manual operation that simply cannot be industrialised. Indeed, the extreme accuracy of the adjustments required for this complication can neither be done by machine nor measured; they truly do come from the watchmaker’s hand, ear and heart. For this reason, two identical striking mechanisms will sound different, precisely because they are adjusted by hand. The creation of a striking mechanism quite obviously requires all the experience of a skillful and knowledgeable master-watchmaker.

The Perpetual Calendar

The perpetual calendar function displays the day, date and month over four years. Its unique feature is its small size, as the perpetual date mechanisms of the period were usually much larger.

All of the steel parts of the bridges are polished with a tin block to achieve a perfect polish and cold-work the material so as to eliminate any cracks and thus protect it from oxidation with no need for any additional treatment. That is why these century-old steel parts are still as perfect as ever.

The Moon phase

Louis Moinet is presenting a world first, a lunar phase complication with real pieces of the moon. These pieces are from a lunar meteorite that was ejected from the moon 2,000 years ago. The meteorite has been authenticated by the University of California. Of all meteorites, the lunar kind is the rarest of all and is more expensive than gold and platinum put together.

Louis Moinet MAGISTRALIS Minute repeater, Perpetual calendar and Single-pusher chronograph

The Case

The case is made of 5N and 3N 18-carat rose gold/18 carat white gold . Its brand-signature design stands out especially for its crown guard (patent pending) and its chronograph button guard at 12 o’clock.

Louis Moinet MAGISTRALIS Minute repeater, Perpetual calendar and chronograph

The 90-part case is extremely complex to make. It features a pressure-controlled striking-mechanism lever, which makes the slide easier to manipulate. The various correctors are marked with the Louis Moinet symbols so their purpose is obvious.

Louis Moinet MAGISTRALIS Minute repeater, Perpetual calendar and chronograph

The Dial

The dial is adorned with the “Côtes du Jura” ® motif, an exclusive creation from the Ateliers Louis Moinet.

Louis Moinet MAGISTRALIS Minute repeater, Perpetual calendar and chronograph

The four counters are hollowed and their “old rose” shade ensures excellent readability of the indications provided by the century-old flame-blued steel hands.

The Watch Box

The box is entirely hand-crafted from curly maple by luthier Claude Bourquard, from the Jura. Claude has a thorough knowledge of resonance, acquired by making guitars and violins of the highest quality by hand. He has used this knowledge to design a true musical instrument using the watch support. Once the striking mechanism has been activated, the instrument amplifies its sound so the tone can be fully appreciated. This instrument is made of curly maple and varnished spruce, and Claude jealously safeguards the secrets of its manufacture, which make it a unique object.

Louis Moinet MAGISTRALIS Minute repeater, Perpetual calendar and chronograph

Louis Moinet has created the first musical instrument for a watch. The watch support amplifies the sound of the striking mechanism of MAGISTRALIS.

The 1848 Traité d’Horlogerie

An original of the Traité d’Horlogerie by Louis Moinet is also included in the box. This is the second edition, dated 1856. This book has the reputation of being the most beautiful of its century, and describes the best watchmaking techniques. It is illustrated by dozens of pages of watch mechanisms hand-drawn by Louis Moinet.

Features

Model: MAGISTRALIS, Limited Edition of 1
Reference: LM-15.65.50/50

Versions
5N and 3N 18-carat rose gold Case, Black dial
18-carat white gold Case , Black dial

Functions
Minute repeater, Perpetual calendar and Single-pusher chronograph

Price
CHF 1,000,000.00