Inspired by the Perrin Frères signed pocket watch (Neuchatel) dating from the early 19th Century, and now owned by the EMSF, the Toric reprises the special sector time display function, but in a movement made entirely by the Parmigiani Fleurier manufacture.
Initially restored by its restoration workshop, the pocket watch had already revealed quite a lot of secrets. In complete synergy, the Parmigiani Fleurier restoration workshop and the department dedicated to grand complication development pooled their knowledge to develop this new movement.
The Calibre PF 321 features a Minute Repeater with cathedral chimes, plus an additional module dedicated to the sector time display. The time is displayed in a half-moon aperture, comprising 60-minute indexes with each quarter-hour sector in 5-minute subdivisions. The hour (1 to 12) has an Arabic numeral display, whose progress can be tracked from the first to sixtieth minute, before the next hour appears. The module incorporates a rotary system comprising three planetary gears with four arms, each end of which bears a number. Directly meshed with the hour wheel, the set of discs is driven via a cam system, which brings up the next hour as soon as the previous one has run its course.
On the dial side, a large bezel surrounding the perimeter of the double-knurled case and the central part of the watch acts as the main decoration. Made from white gold, and hand-engraved with geometric patterns, then covered with translucent enamel, it highlights the sector aperture, and therefore the hour and minute display. This portion of the dial, made from white mother-of-pearl, is applique indexed.
On the back of the calibre, the blued steel cathedral gongs come in the highly original form of a snake coiling round the movement, perfectly visible through the sapphire crystal case-back.
Made to mark the”Mechanical Wonders“exhibition in 2011 in New York, the Toric Minute Repeater model bears its individual number and the name of the exhibition engraved on the case-back, made from white gold.
Technical details
Model: Toric Minute Repeater Watch with Sector Display
Movement
PF321
Sector display and minute repeater
Hand-wound movement
45-hour power reserve
Calibre 12 ¼’’’– Ø 28 mm
Total thickness 8.55 mm
Frequency: 2.5 Hz – 18,000 vib/h. 33 jewels
Hand-bevelled main plate and bridges
Fluted cathedral chimes
Functions
Display of the hour and minutes per sector
Minute Repeater
Case
Round 3-part case: Ø 45 mm. Thickness: 12.9 mm
Material: 18 ct white gold. Polished finish
Water resistance: 10 m
Hand engraved and knurled bezel
Shaped anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Crown: Ø 7 mm
Case-back with sapphire crystal
Dial
White mother-of-pearl, applique indices
Strap
Leather Hermes alligator strap with 18 carat white gold ardillon buckle, polished finish
It all began with a calibre introduced in 1940 in Moutier (in the Swiss Jura region) by a company that had a strong impact on its era: the Fabrique d’ébauches Vénus. The Vénus Calibre behind the ACE chronograph is a finely crafted and intelligently designed hand-wound movement that became extremely popular.
At an early stage in his watchmaking career, Frédéric Jouvenot became acquainted with these movements that went out of production in the 1960s, along with other collector’s chronographs. He admired them immensely and set off in search of them in order to repair, renovate and reintroduce them on the collector’s market. Around thirty of these calibres passed through his hands.
Frédéric Jouvenot then went a step further to undertake a full-fledged transformation process that resulted in the rebirth of a the hand-wound Vénus 175 as a self-winding chronograph movement named the Automatic Chronograph Evolution, for which a patent was registered in 2008.
The historical value of the movement is highlighted through the transparent case-back and honours the mechanical beauty of the original which still bears traces of a baseplate carrying the Vénus logo. Meanwhile, the most spectacular component, the oscillating weight, is magnificently staged on the dial and thus completes the total-inversion approach – since the sides have exchanged places.
To accomplish this feat, Frédéric Jouvenot maintained the architecture and structure of the movement by ensuring full visibility of the bridges, which are enhanced by hand-crafted decoration.
The gold oscillating weight moves in step with the cadence of its wearer. It is adorned with Côtes de Genève and avoids concealing the dial or counters by means of two circular openings the exact size of the minute and small seconds counters.
Its creator also designed the watch case in close cooperation with his supplier. He wanted it to be extremely comfortable by rounding the lugs so as to follow the natural curve of the wrist. He also lightened up the case design by hollowing the lugs and thus giving it an extremely contemporary appearance.
The Automatic Chronograph Evolution, assembled with the original 1940 movement, is issued in a limited series numbered from 1 to 18.
Technical details
(1) Frédéric Jouvenot FJ-ACE-001 Diamonds
Classic column-wheel chronograph with new exclusive patented automatic winding system on the top
Chronograph with main dial, minute timers for 3 hours and small second timer for 9 hrs
5-piece limited edition
Total setting weight of the watch: 8.46 carats
Two-year warranty
Movement
The rotor perfectly intermeshes with the timers for reading the time
Screw-adjusted balance, frequency of 18’000 vph
Automatic winding, 50-hour power reserve
22 K gold rotor set with diamonds
Engraved chronographic bridge and balancing bridge in hand-finished black gold with côtes de Genève.
Dial and movement bridges set with black and white diamonds
Case, dial and strap
White gold bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds totaling 5.88 carats
Case, crown, back in 18K white or pink gold, 50 m waterproof
Face and back sapphire glass cover with antireflective coating
Case diameter : 44 x 55 x 13 mm
Black alligator leather strap
White gold folded clasp
Specific original presentation box, USB guarantee card, manual
(2) Frédéric Jouvenot FJ-ACE-001 Pink Gold
Classic column-wheel chronograph with new exclusive patented automatic winding system on the top
Chronograph with main dial, minute timers for 3 hours and small second timer for 9 hrs
18-piece limited edition incorporating an original 1940 Venus 175 movement
Two-year warranty
Movement
The rotor perfectly intermeshes with the timers for reading the time
Screw-adjusted balance, frequency of 18’000 vph
Automatic winding, 50-hour power reserve
22 K gold rotor matching the face and the case colour, fan-shaped face decorations
Engraved chronographic bridge and balancing bridge in hand-finished black gold with côtes de Genève
Case, dial and strap
18K white or pink gold case, crown, back in, 50 m waterproof
Sapphire glass cover for face and back with antireflective coating
Case diameter: 44 x 55 x 13 mm
Black alligator leather strap
Pink gold folding clasp
Specific original presentation box, USB guarantee card, manual
(3) Frédéric Jouvenot FJ-ACE-001 Titanium DLC
Classic column-wheel chronograph with new exclusive patented automatic winding system on the top
Chronograph with main dial, minute timers for 3 hours and small second timer for 9 hrs
Venus 175 movement
Two-year warranty
Movement
The rotor perfectly intermeshes with the timers for reading the time
Screw-adjusted balance, frequency of 18’000 vph
Automatic winding, 50-hour power reserve
Engraved chronographic bridge and balancing bridge in hand-finished black gold with côtes de Genève
Case, dial and strap
Titanium DLC treated case, crown and back, 50 m waterproof
Sapphire glass cover for face and back with antireflective coating
Case diameter: 44 x 55 x 13 mm
Black alligator leather strap
Titanium folding clasp with DLC treatment
Specific original presentation box, USB guarantee card, manual
This one of a kind version, dedicated to Only Watch 2011 charity watch auction, is housed in a red gold case with an elegant matt black dial highlighting the roman numerals and panorama date.
Perfectly visible is the second hand on the background of a silver sub-dial. The crown is topped by a black Onyx Cabochon. The number 1/1 clearly states that this Senator Chronometer only exists once worldwide. To obtain chronometer certification in Germany, the complete watch (not just the movement) has to undergo a series of tough tests to establish its precision and rate.
Precise synchronization of the minute and second hands has been made possible by the in-house constructed Glashütte Original manual winding Calibre 58-01, which powers the Senator Chronometer model. The Senator Chronometer Only Watch 2011 is accompanied by a unique wood case created as a tribute to marine chronometer housings of the past.
Introduced for the first time in 2011, the Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia is a grand complication timepiece which was created after a decade of research by a team of engineers, watchmakers and scientists of IWC Schaffhausen.
Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia, the most complicated timepiece ever made by IWC combines solar time and sidereal time on a single dial. From the front, this fascinating masterpiece is a classical Portuguese watch, from the reverse side an astronomical instrument.
The patented constantforce tourbillon is the most conspicuous feature. The tiny space on the reverse side accommodates a celestial chart, horizon, geographical coordinates, solar time, sidereal time, sunrise and sunset display as well as a display showing daytime, nighttime and twilight. Also not to be forgotten is a completely integrated perpetual calendar behind the display showing the number of the day.
The Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia combines the romanticism of the night sky with science at the cutting edge, while combining complex watchmaking technology with unbelievably simple operation and a craftsman’s love of detail with forward thinking vision. For all its precision and attention to detail, the Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia watch is eminently suitable for everyday use: it is water-resistant to 3 bar and, considering that the mechanism is so delicate, astonishingly impervious to shocks.
The Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia is not made in series production. Every single watch is produced exclusively to order by the customer and is an individual project in itself.
Since the star chart and horizon as well as sunrise and sunset times have to be calculated and displayed for a precise location specified by the customer, individual mechanical parts have to be custom manufactured, then assembled and adjusted individually. This means that every customer is not only wearing a unique watch on his wrist but also his own personalised constellation of stars, as seen in the night sky from the location of his choice.
With the Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia timepiece, individuality is of the utmost importance. As part of a special service, customers can design their own precious watches within the limits set by IWC’s design philosophy. The range of case and strap materials, together with the choice of five different colours for the dial as well as various colours for the appliqués and straps, results in over 200 possible combinations.
In view of this individuality and the highly demanding design work involved, buyers will have to wait approximately one year for delivery.
Dial side displays
24-hour display (sidereal time)
Sidereal time and solar time can be set separately
Power reserve display
Rear side displays
Customized celestial chart and horizon
– Sunrise and sunset display
– Sidereal time and solar time
– Day, night and dusk display under celestial chart
– Perpetual calendar with display showing leap years and number of day
Movement
Calibre 94900, Hand-wound Mechanical movement
Frequency: 18,000 A/ h / 2.5 Hz
Jewels: 56
Power reserve : 4 days (96 h)
New balance with 2 adjustment cams and 2 adjustment weights
Breguet spring
2 barrels
Constant-force tourbillon
Case
Material as specified by customer (e.g. platinum or red gold), strap as specified by customer with IWC folding clasp
Glass: sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Back: see-through sapphire-glass back
Water-resistance: 3 bar
Diameter: 46 mm
Case height: 17.5 mm
Schofield Watch Company, founded by British watch designer Giles Ellis, unveiled their debut models – The Signalman GMT PR and the Signalman DLC GMT PR – in 2011 at Salon QP exhibition in London. Inspired by the lighthouses of 18th and 19th century England, these new models were widely welcomed by the connoisseurs of fine watch making. With their aesthetic and high precision models, this independent watch company contributes a share of expertise to the centuries old British traditional watch-making.
The case body used on the Signalman model is a patented four part outer assembly consisting of the visible stainless steel components and featuring a two part anti-magnetic movement holder. The case is extremely complex and expensive to manufacture, machined to tolerances not exceeding 0.01mm.
Case dimensions are 15.01mm from the case back to the crystal; 44mm outer case diameter, excluding the crown and 47mm wide including the crown. 51mm from lug tip to lug tip. Strap width at the lug ends is 24mm. The lugs wrap around the wrist, dropping below the case by 4mm making the watch very comfortable on both large and small wrists. The screw in, double gasket crown is 9mm in diameter, giving great leverage, making it very easy to use. The pusher for setting the GMT sub-dial is unusually built into and through the lug assembly. The strap fitting bars are a two piece screw together assembly with large 3.5mm screw heads and 2mm bars. This gives superior support and strength while reducing wear to the straps.The Sapphire Crystal is 2.20 mm thick with an anti-reflective coating on the inside where it won’t get rubbed off. The crystal is set just below the lip of the bezel. The Schofield Signalman is a robust and elegant watch with a water resistance of 500 metres.
The anti-magnetic movement assembly consists of the dial and a special one piece movement older. This group of components helps keep magnetic flux away from the movement by providing a preferred path for the magnetic field to pass through. The Signalman DLC has the stainless steel parts of the case coated with black Diamond Like Carbon. This is the hardest anslickest of coatings available.
The case parts that are DLC coated are first microbille finished which gives a matt look. The crown and case back are left polished and uncoated.The case back is a screw down type, featuring an etching of Smeaton’s lighthouse and a stylised graphic of a Fresnel lens. The engraved lettering tells of some of the model’s details.The Signalman case design is representative of the early Aldis lamps used by the Royal Navy, and the casements of some Fresnel lenses.
The Signalman GMT PR model wrist watches uses the very high end mechanical, automatic, Swiss made Soprod 9335/A10 movement. This is the base Soprod Alternance 10 Calibre (A10) movement with the 9335 module placed on top to handle the Power Reserve and the GMT complications. Movements are regulated in 4 positions insuring an average deviation of +/- 4 seconds a day. Watches are therefore 99.98% accurate. These Soprod movements are beautifully finished and decorated using traditional Swiss methods such as Côtes de Genève, Perlage, blued screws and Rhodium plating.
The dial is a 2 part brass construction, rivetted together and coated in copper oxide matt black paint. The inner dial is further engraved for the GMT index. The GMT and minute indices marry up erfectly, the GMT 12 o’clock noon aligning with the 6 o’clock on the main index.
The applied, diamond polished hour markers are fixed to the dial using tiny pins. The non-numerical hour markers are hollowed and filled with SuperLuminova C1, the whitest and brightest lume. Designed with minimalist symmetry, there is no printing on the dial that is unnecessary. The slashed O at the 12 o’clock position is congruent with the 24 hour GMT display and military time. The slashed O is also used for clarity as it cannot be confused with any other symbol.
The power reserve indicator is designed to resemble a lighthouse beam of light; this general shape is echoed throughout the watch, i.e. the hands and hour markers. The beam of light has now been adopted formally as the Schofield logo. The minute and hour hands are diamond polished and again filled with SuperLuminova C1. The second hand has been designed with a large black central cap that hides the canon pinion and is an unusual feature in wrist watches. The counterpoise of the second hand is of the same dimensions as the counterpoise of the GMT hand but is instead solid.The date window is deliberately small and inconspicuous so as not to clutter the dial.
All Schofield straps are manufactured using top quality materials from around the world. The strap insert is custom made for Schofield and is fabricated in the classic half Remborde method. All straps are lined with fine green calf skin and feature a patented red ‘keep close’ ribbon that prevents the floating keeper loop from moving up the strap. Some straps are water resistant to 100 metres, for example, the sharkskin, horse leather and India-rubber. The buckle is the only component of the Signalman GMT PR that has not been designed by Schofield as it fitted the bill perfectly. All buckles have been engraved with the name of the company and are made with polished 316L Stainless Steel. Changing the straps is achieved by using 2 x 2.5mm screwdrivers.
The Signalman Box is manufactured and finished by hand by skilled craftsmen in the North of England. They are made with solid Cherry and based on turn of the century marine chronometer boxes. The scaling and dimensions of the box are based on the mathematics of the ‘Golden Ratio’. Each box features custom made brass work and is badged with the serial number of the corresponding watch. The Signalman DLC comes in exactly the same box as the Signalman but has been finished in a black laquer.Inside the box is a CNC milled foam insert, the brass GMT Setting Pusher and chamois leather.
The Signalman DLC is the same as the polished version in every way apart from the near black case. It is limited to just 100 pieces.
London based watch brand Christopher Ward unveils a new scaled down version of their best-selling C60 Trident-Pro automatic model. Featuring every elegant details of its 42mm brother, just scaled-down, the Trident-Pro automatic 38 mm (partnered by the W61, a women’s version) honours the 1954 Rolex GMT Master.
Although a fine dive watch, the Trident is perfect for almost any occasion, formal or casual, and it is perhaps unsurprising, therefore, that the micro-adjustable stainless steel bracelet and leather strap versions account for most sales. Bezel colour range is vibrant blue, orange or classic black, personalised with a wide choice of stainless steel bracelet, leather straps or NATO nylon stripe with welded joints for maximum comfort.
Technical details
Movement
Calibre: ETA 2824-2 / Sellita SW200-1
Vibrations: 28,800 per hour
Swiss made
25/26 Jewel automatic movement
38 hr power reserve
Case & dial
Marine grade stainless steel case
Diameter: 38mm
Height: 13mm
Weight: 129g
Uni-directional bezel
Screw-in crown and back plate
30 atm (1000ft) water resistant case
4.0mm anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Super-Luminova indices, bezel marker and hands
Unique engraved individual serial number
The Dimier collection comprises timepieces driven by exclusive tourbillon movements and complications developed by the DIMIER Manufactory owned by BOVET.
The Récital 7 Orbis Mundi® Moon Phase is a haute horlogerie creation from BOVET – DIMIER, dedicated to travelers. Based on a self-winding movement, the latest module developed and manufactured by DIMIER designers and watchmakers displays a second time-zone. It is indexed to an indicator which shows in an aperture the name of a city located in one of the twenty-four time-zones. In addition, the names of the cities of each of the twenty-four zones can be personalised according to the preferences of every collector. By activating one of the two push-pieces on the case-band it is possible to advance the hour hand of the second time-zone. The aperture will automatically display the name of a city located in that time-zone. A practical day-night indicator completes this function, meaning that no calculations are required, nor do you need to locate the second time-zone to the east or west of your own position to know if the time shown is day or night.
Indexed to local time, the moon disc features an aventurine sky with gold moons. The precision mechanism of this function is designed so that only a single one-day correction is required every 127 years. The sapphire dial with anti-glare treatment on both sides guarantees perfect clarity and legibility of all information while revealing the gear-trains, pawls and springs that drive this module.
Technical details Model: Récital 7 Orbis Mundi® Moon Phase
Case and bracelet
Diameter: 45mm
Material: 18-carat red or white gold
Water-resistance: 3 ATM – 30 metres
Bracelet: Alligator full leather
Buckle: 18-carat red or white gold pin buckle
Crystals: Sapphire with anti-glare treatment top and bottom
Movement
Type: Self-winding
Orbis Mundi®
Diameter: 11 ½’’’ and 16’’’ module
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 72 hours
Jewels: 28
Since Hanhart produced the very first stopwatch in 1924, the independent Swiss-German watch brand has developed to become the most important and market-leading manufacturer of timepieces. Nowadays, the mechanical stopwatches made in the Hanhart factory in Gütenbach, Germany, are popular collector’s pieces and highly-valued accessories for vintage car rally drivers.
Modern aviation, newly emerging motor races or booming popular sport – in the first half of the last century, these would have been unimaginable without new high-precision 100 per cent reliable timekeeping instruments; timekeeping instruments which were inextricably linked to the name of Hanhart and remain so today. When Johann Adolf Hanhart, a watchmaker from Diessenhofen, issued an announcement in the Anzeiger am Rhein newspaper on 1 July 1882, “respectfully informing” readers that he had purchased a business and its premises on the high street of his home town in North East Switzerland, with the intention of opening a watch shop there, he laid the foundations for the Swiss-German Hanhart watch brand, which remains independent to this day.
The brand soon made a name for itself in the manufacture of stopwatches and chronographs for use in the air, on the land and on the sea. Even today, thanks to its high level of expertise and the precision and first-class functionality of its products, it continues to maintain its status as the most important and market leading producer of mechanical and electronic timekeeping instruments.
In 1924, the youngest Hanhart son, Wilhelm Julius – a sport-loving young man who had recently joined the business – was inspired to produce the world’s first affordable stopwatch. It was a resounding success and formed the basis for further innovative technological developments, as well as for the conversion of the erstwhile reassembly business into a watch factory, where the focus was on producing watches using the company’s own movements.
In addition to the legendary mono-pusher and pilot’s chronographs, which Hanhart manufactured from 1938 onwards, new and increasingly elaborate stopwatches were constantly being launched on the market – such as the sophisticated double hand stopwatch and the ultrafast oscillator with its balance-wheel frequency of 360,000 vibrations per hour, which made Hanhart the first manufacturer to enable the measurement of hundredths of a second.
Nowadays Hanhart’s high-quality mechanical stopwatches, which are manufactured over several production stages in the company’s Gütenbach factory, represent a key product segment for the brand as the ClassicTimer collection. Used in the past for all the important sporting events and motor races, today they are most popular among ambitious vintage car rally drivers. This traditional close link with motorsport is well established with the “Tachymaster” models, a world first launched by Hanhart in 2009. This watch displays the distances to be driven in the rallies, thus making it much easier to check the times for each individual stage.
The mechanical timepieces in the ClassicTimer series offer everything you could possibly need in situations which require precise timekeeping. The collection ranges from the classic addition timer, the split-seconds addition timer and the long-distance hour counter, right through to the “Mega Minutes” addition timer with its extra-large, centrally positioned sprung minutes hand and practical flyback function. The collection is also supplemented by day timers, whose classic design is reminiscent of the distinctive Hanhart pocket watches.
All of the stopwatches feature a mechanical Hanhart manufacture movement with a Swiss anchor escapement and a shock-resistant balance wheel. The chrome-plated brass case has a pristine polished finish and, depending on the model, includes a fluted rotating bezel with red marking for presetting target times in individual race stages. Ease of use is guaranteed by the convenience buttons – the reset button marked in red, the special trademark feature of Hanhart.
The stopwatches and day timers can be used in any combination, and can easily be mounted onto a dashboard on one-, two- or three-piece panels. The watches can be fitted onto and removed from the dashboard in a simple process thanks to an innovative “slide-in” method with a cleverly devised mechanism.
Movement: Mechanical manufacture movement; anchor escapement; 7 jewels
Functions: Addition timer, flyback function, 1/5-second timing, large sprung central minutes hand with measurement range up to 60 minutes
Case: Chrome-plated brass, polished; fluted rotating bezel with red marking, depending on the model; red convenience button; mineral glass; diameter 55 mm; splashproof
Dial: Beige or black
2. HANHART CLASSICTIMER Split-seconds addition timer with flyback(Ref 135.3960-8E)
Movement: Mechanical manufacture movement; anchor escapement; 9 jewels
Functions: Split-seconds addition timer, flyback function, 1/5-second timing,
30-minute counter
Case: Chrome-plated brass, polished; fluted rotating bezel with red marking; convenience buttons, red reset button; mineral glass; diameter 55 mm; splashproof
Dial: Beige or black.
4. HANHART CLASSICTIMER Classic addition timer(Ref 125.4001-90)
Movement: Mechanical manufacture movement; anchor escapement; 7 jewels
Functions: Addition timer, 1/5-second timing, 30-minute counter
Case: Chrome-plated brass, polished; red convenience button; diameter 55 mm; mineral glass; splashproof
Dial: Beige or black
5. HANHART CLASSICTIMER Long-distance hour counter(Ref 126.7260-80 & 126.7301-90)
Movement: Mechanical manufacture movement; anchor escapement; 11 jewels
Functions: 1/5-second timing, sprung central minutes hand; 10-hour counter
Case: Chrome-plated brass, polished; fluted rotating bezel with red marking, depending on the model; red convenience button; mineral glass; diameter 55 mm; splashproof
Dial: Beige or black
6. HANHART CLASSICTIMER “Board Time” day timer (Ref 850.3960-80 & 850.4001-90)
Movement: Unitas 6497 hand-wound movement; anchor escapement; 17 jewels
Functions: Hours/minutes, small seconds
Case: Chrome-plated brass, polished; fluted rotating bezel with red marking, depending on the model; mineral glass; diameter 55 mm; splashproof
Dial: Beige or black
HANHART CLASSICTIMER Dashboards
The mechanical stopwatches and instrument watches for dashboards produced in the Hanhart factory in Gütenbach, Germany, are popular collector’s pieces and highly valued accessories for vintage car rally drivers. In 2011, Hanhart Introduced the first two-piece set for car dashboards in an elegant black design.
The name of the independent Swiss-German watch brand Hanhart is a synonym for high precision and 100 per cent reliable stopwatches and chronographs for use in the air, on the land and on the sea. Today, thanks to its high level of expertise, as well as the precision and first-class functionality of its products, Hanhart has become the most important market-leading manufacturer of mechanical and electronic timekeeping instruments.
High-quality mechanical stopwatches and instrument watches for dashboards, made over several production stages in Hanhart’s factory, and named the ClassicTimer collection; represent a significant product segment for the brand. Used in the past for all the important sporting events and motor races, today they are most popular among ambitious vintage car rally drivers. The watches can be used in any combination, and can easily be mounted onto the dashboard with a specially made panel. They can be fitted onto and removed from the dashboard in a simple process thanks to an innovative “slide-in” method.
In 2011, Hanhart introduced a day timer with a classic design that pays homage to the distinctive Hanhart pocket watches, as well as a split-seconds addition timer with flyback function in elegant black chrome-plated brass, with a matching mounting panel for the dashboard. The discreet matte surface of the panel, punctuated by polished cases, edges and details, offer an exciting contrast to the red reset button on the stopwatch – Hanhart’s trademark. The same red colouring is used for the drag indicator, ensuring that this remains very visible against the jet-black dial and easily distinguishable from the white seconds hand. The stopwatch contains a mechanical Hanhart manufacture movement with a Swiss anchor escapement and a shock-resistant balance wheel, the day timer contains a Unitas hand-wound movement.
HANHART ClassicTimer Split-seconds addition timer with flyback function
Movement: Mechanical manufacture movement; anchor escapement; 9 jewels
Functions: Split-seconds addition timer, flyback function, 1/5-second timing, 30-minute counter
Case: Black chrome-plated brass, polished; convenience buttons, red reset button; mineral glass; diameter 55 mm; splashproof
Dial: Black
ClassicTimer “Board Time” day timer
Movement: Unitas 6497 hand-wound movement; anchor escapement; 17 jewels
Functions: Hours/minutes, small seconds
Case: Black chrome-plated brass, polished; mineral glass; diameter 55 mm; splashproof
Dial: Black
The Schaumburg Watch Grand Perpetual MooN is an extra ordinary mechanical high tech moonphase watch. Its display is luminescent (patented) and depicts the moon cycle of the northern and southern hemisphere photo-realistically with a maximum divergence of only one day in 122.5 years.
The realistic depiction of the MooN with its 13,4 mm is ought to be the world´s biggest moonphase chronometer that you can find in an automatic watch. Thereby not the depiction of the moon itself moves but the simulation of the earth shadow. Therefore the moon stays visible like in a starlit night even when it is new moon.
The dial itself is available in four variations: optional in black, white or with a surcharge in a costly Cloisonné enamel designed with signs of the zodiac or even with a real meteorite dial whose material originates from a desert region in Gambia.
The 43 mm sized and very massive case is conical at the bottom and has well formed lugs for 22mm straps. The band attachments are also screwed as well as the massive case back.
Technical details
High tech moon-phase watch of the superlative
Realistic depiction of the moon cycle for the northern and southern hemisphere
Maximum divergence of only one day in 122.5 years
World´s biggest moon-phase chronometer in an automatic watch
Moon stays visible like in a starlit night even when it is new moon
Dial available in four variations : Optional in black or white or Surcharge in a costly Cloisonné enamel designed with signs of the zodiac or Real meteorite dials whose material originates from a desert region in Gambia
STOWA Flieger Chrono features a minimalistic pilot watch design adopted by Jörg Schauer & his STOWA team. They omitted the small second dial and date display in order to highlight the simplicity and the chronograph functions.
As for chronographs, the permanent second dial really only indicates whether or not the watch is running; otherwise it often interferes with visual appearance or needs to be integrated in the design with some minor flaws. Only very few watchmakers manage to include the dial of the permanent second nicely or to even highlight its position on the major dial. When designing the pilot chrono, Schauer realized that the integration of the small second dial would only lead to compromises concerning clarity of the typography, and therefore he dropped the idea altogether. Of course, the chrono is equipped with the blued steel hands featured by all STOWA pilot watches.
The luminous hour, minute and numeral markers make reading easier, especially in the dark. The hand-matted stainless steel case has a glass caseback exhibiting the automatic Valjoux 7753 chronograph movement. As it is common in all STOWA watches, premium sapphire crystal protects the dial and the caseback. The diameter of the watch is 41 mm and it is available with different leather straps. Technical details
Case: Stainless steel, matt finished, Ø: 41 mm, height 14,7 mm, strap size 22 mm, front sapphire crystal domed, back sapphire crystal flat, 5 ATM
Movement: Valjoux 7753 automatic movement, power reserve min. 40 hours, with golden STOWA engraving on rotor
Dial: black matt, white printed, Superluminova C3
Hands: Temperature-blued steel, Superluminova C3
Strap: Leather strap or in old style brown or black, Flieger Original
Introduced in 2011, the Dent Denison is a classic, three-handed wristwatch made in the finest English tradition by the Makers of Big Ben.
This new model from Dent London, one of the greatest names in watchmaking, is inspired from an earlier Dent design that was originally available during the 1920s and 30s. The Denison is a supremely elegant gentleman’s watch which will be made in a limited edition of 100 pieces in 18 carat rose gold and 100 pieces in 18 carat white gold.
The delectable cushion case houses a crisp, white dial bearing hand-applied Breguet numerals and providing a small date aperture at three o’clock. The dial is complemented by ‘teardrop’ hour and minute hands and a straight seconds hand, each made from steel which is ‘blued’ in the traditional English method.
An ‘officer’ style case back (which provides a perfect blank canvas for engravement and personalisation) hinges open to reveal an internal plate sporting a meticulously hand-engraved pattern in the style of the great English designer William Morris.
A semi-circular crystal reveals details of the exquisitely-made automatic movement – Dent’s first totally new movement for around 60 years – which is based on a classic English lever escapement design.
Again, the winding rotor is embellished with Morris-style engraving while the plates and bridges carry the very signature of traditional English watchmaking in the form of a frosted finish. Fully wound, the movement offers a power reserve of 42 hours. Each Dent Denison is hand made to order and requires a lead time of six months to complete.
The Great Clock (colloquially known as Big Ben, which is really the name of the main bell) is probably the single most famous timekeeper in the world. Dent London has named its new wristwatch ‘the Denison’ in honour of Edmund Beckett Denison, the great figure who also involved in the creation of Big Ben.
Denison, a lawyer and amateur horologist, was one of few people who believed Astronomer Royal George Airy’s stipulation that the mechanism be accurate to within one second in order to be acceptable. Denison worked with Dent to design the Great Clock, helping him to engineer its unique double three-legged gravity, or ‘remontoir,’ escapement which is driven by the pendulum and which ensures the accuracy of the going train.
Technical details
Case: 18 carat rose or white gold
Dimensions: 43.5mm by 35 mm.
Movement: Self-winding, classic lever escapement to Dent design.
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and date.
Availability: Limited to 100 pieces in rose gold and 100 pieces in white gold.
Retail price: $39,950. Each watch individually hand-made to order.
The EZM 10 is the result of an ambitious development project that was initiated in 2003 by Sinn. The mission was to create a mission timer that optimally implemented the demands made on a pilot’s watch in terms of movement, dial and technology.
Easy legibility is one major reason pilots rely on mechanical watches. That is why these chronographs are made using the SINN SZ 01 movement that facilitates precise time measurement and excellent readability.
The SZ 01 features a 60-minute jump minute counter in the centre of the dial. This technical innovation has two benefits: For one thing, 60 instead of the conventional 30 minutes are counted in one sweep of the hand. In addition, the minute counting hand extends across the entire radius of the dial, making it easy to tell how much time has passed.
Orange lights visible even in daylight indicate the functions of the chronograph. This makes it possible to read off stopped times even in the dark or in ultraviolet light, which is often used in cockpits. To ensure optimal functionality, the backwards-counting rotary pilot’s bezel with minute ratcheting has a luminous marking. Like all Sinn pilot’s watches, the EZM has a captive bezel, but with an added luxury: The bezel insert is made of high-quality sapphire crystal glass.
But excellent readability is not the only aspect than makes the EZM 10 such a valuable and useful mission timer. The timepiece also boasts excellent SINN technological features such as DIAPAL for a lubricant-free escapement, Ar-Dehumidifying Technology for better resistance to humidity and freedom from fogging, as well as temperature resistance technology that ensures workability at temperatures from -45 °C to +80 °C.
And the large-format push-pieces with Black Hard Coating on a tegimented surface are also extremely user friendly. They facilitate convenient operation of the chronograph, even with gloves on. The push-pieces are attached without screws and effectively sealed using specially developed D3 system.
The case diameter of 46.5 mm gives the watch a formidable appearance, yet it is still comfortable to wear – not least because of its bead-blasted case made of robust titanium with TEGIMENT technology, which is used here for the first time in a SINN watch. The crystal is made of valuable sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating on both sides.
Technical details Movement
Mechanical Movement: SINN Movement SZ01 Self-winding mechanism 29 bearing jewels 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour Seconds stop function
Shock resistant as per DIN 8308 Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309
Case
Case made of titanium, bead-blasted
Sapphire crystal glass in front, anti-reflective on both sides
Case back screw-fastened
Crown screwable
Water-resistant as per DIN 8310
Pressure-resistant up to 20 bar (200 m diving depth)
Low pressure resistant
Functions
Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds
24-hour display
Date display
Chronograph with 60-minute stop function from the dial centre
Captive pilot’s bezel with minute ratcheting
SINN Technologies
Sinn Movement SZ01 DIAPAL – lubricant-free escapement
TEGIMENT Technology Push-pieces with Black Hard Coating on a TEGIMENT Technology basis Captive bezel sapphire glass insert
Ar-Dehumidifying Technology enhances functional reliability and freedom from fogging Temperature resistance technology, therefore functionally reliable at temperatures from -45 °C up to +80°C Push-pieces with D3-System
Dimensions and Weight
Case diameter 3h-9h: 46,5 mm
Case diameter 6h-12h: 44 mm
Band lug width: 22 mm
Case thickness: 15,6 mm
Weight without strap: 95 gramme
Dial and Hands
Matte black dial Indices coated with luminescent colour
Hour and minute hand coated with luminescent colour
Stopwatch second hand coated with luminescent colour
Pilot’s bezel with luminescent colour Chronograph function with daylight luminous paint
Introduced in 2011, the Quantième Perpétuel Nebula by DeWitt represents a stellar blend of horological complexity, poetry and originality.
NGC 5194 is one of the galaxies of Eridan, a planetary nebula located 31 million light years from Earth. This distinctive spiral-shaped galaxy has been faithfully reproduced on the silicium plate adorning the new Quantième Perpétuel watch, an exceptional piece of miniaturisation calling for state-of-the-art technology.
Aptly named Nebula, or star cloud, this creation vividly reflects the spirit of the Maison DeWitt through a unique aesthetic signature melding poetry and fine watchmaking; an original reinterpretation of calendar function readings, a combination of special materials. Earthly and heavenly elements meet and mingle, endowing the Quantième Perpétuel Nebula with the ability to follow the path of time and grasp its destiny with inimitable elegance.
Faithfully reflecting the spirit that drives the House of DeWitt, the Quantième Perpétuel Nebula stems from meticulous research affecting both its form and its substance. Powered by mechanical self-winding Calibre DW7021, this fascinating creation keeps accurate track of the passing years by displaying the date, day, month and moon phases. This talented perpetual calendar model also provides a dual time-zone indication by means of a dedicated red hand.
A masterpiece of sophisticated construction and miniaturisation, this complex model smoothly handles the vagaries of the Gregorian calendar, since the Quantième Perpétuel Nebula mechanically memorises the varying durations of each month comprising 31, 30 or 28 days. Moreover, Nebula also takes account of the leap-year cycle and the periodic occurrence of February 29th.
The intrinsic complexity of the mechanism is counter-balanced by the positioning of the subdials, a new architectural approach based on a highly original layout of the calendar information. Arranging them to form the arc of a circle both clarifies and simplifies their readability, while lending this piece a distinctive and resolutely DeWitt character.
Moving in a clockwise direction, the eye progressively runs over subdials respectively showing the day of the week, the 24-hour graduated GMT indication (coupled with a central red dual time-zone pointer), leap years, months and the day of the month coupled with the calendar display. This circular visual trajectory than merges into the vision of celestial infinity portrayed in the upper part of the dial and symbolised by a silicium plate bearing the NGC 5194 nebula, along with a day/night disc rotating against a star-studded backdrop.
The result is a poetic, dreamlike vision in keeping with the finest Brand traditions. Reflecting its innovative and iconoclastic nature, DeWitt dares to introduce all manner of material combinations into its creative approach. Nebula harmoniously associates gold, titanium and ceramics into a case topped by a notched bezel. This redesigned Brand signature remains instantly identifiable, while now featuring 12 indentations in a design that endows it with a remarkably powerful presence.
The split-level dial features an upper section in silicium to depict NGC 5194, while mother-of-pearl symbolises the moon and the night sky is crafted from Goldfluss. This synthetic glass, made from copper and involving a distinctive and ancient principle of firing in the kiln, was discovered in 17th century Venice and gave rise to the legendary Murano glass.
The Quanitième Perpétuel Nebula is available in two versions: a white gold case with titanium middle and ceramic inserts, or a rose and white gold case with titanium middle and ceramic inserts. The former features a grey lower dial section, while the second is anthracite. Both are adorned with the “Côtes de Genève” motif. The Quantième Perpétuel Nebula is fitted with a sapphire crystal case-back providing glimpses of the movement in operation, and is fitted with an alligator leather strap with rose or white gold folding clasp. Issued in strictly limited series, this watch is water-resistant to 30 metres.
Movement
DW 7021, self-winding mechanism
Power reserve: 42 hours
Functions: Perpetual Calendar GMT
Movement height: 3.6 mm
Movement diameter: 25.6 mm
Vibrations: 28,800 vph (vibrations per hour)
Balance: Glucydur
Balance spring: Flat
Jewels: 21 jewels
Case
White gold 750, titanium, black ceramics OR Rose and white gold 750, titanium, black ceramics
Diameter: 43 mm
Thickness: 12 mm
Case-back: Sapphire
Interhorn width 21 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Dial
Black or grey “Côtes de Genève” motif; blue Silicium planetary nebula, Goldfluss moon disc and white mother-of-pearl moon. Grey counters surrounded with rose gold or white gold.
Strap
Black alligator leather Buckle: Folding clasp in 750 white or rose gold
Since entering the selective world of Haute Joaillerie, Chopard has constantly surprised observers by its creativity and its ability to push the frontiers of technical feasibility. Over the years, the Geneva-based company has earned a premier position within this elite circle in which inventiveness and expertise of gem-setting artisans plays a crucial role. One of the results is the emergence of jewellery watches with refined designs, showcasing the finest precious stones such as diamonds, rubies and emeralds in a broad variety of cuts and shades of colour.
Here we highlight two daring yet exquisitely delicate high jewellery watch models. These exceptional Haute Joaillerie Watches – Ref: 109220-1001 (High Jewellery watch in 18ct white gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds) and Ref. 134235-5001 (Haute Joaillerie Watch “Xtravaganza” in 18ct rose gold) – were unveiled in 2011.
The Haute Joaillerie Watch (Ref: 109220-1001) is an ode to the talent of the master gem-setters. Its snailed-motif dial is adorned with a carpet of brilliant-cut diamonds in subtly graded sizes while discreet and slender hands dance across the centre, as if to remind admirers that over and above its assumed role as a beautiful piece of jewellery, the mission of the Haute Joaillerie Watch is to mark the passing of time.
Ref : 109220-1001 {High Jewellery watch in 18ct white gold set with
brilliant-cut diamonds, graded in size in a snail motif (9.17 carats),
as well as small brilliant-cut diamonds. Bracelet in 18ct white gold
fully set with brilliant-cut diamonds (18.33 cts)}
The equally precious Haute Joaillerie Xtravaganza (Ref. 134235-5001) watch is a luminous and cheerful model that sparkles brightly on the wrist, secured by delicate rose gold loops to a black satin strap.
Ref. 134235-5001 (High Jewellery Watch “Xtravaganza” in 18ct rose gold.
Guilloché dial set with brilliant-cut diamonds, diamond-set bezel and
loops. Shiny brown leather strap, 18ct rose gold pin buckle)
Its generous brilliant-pavé rose gold dial highlights the beauty of the diamonds which appear to have been randomly sprinkled according to the gemsetter’s aesthetic preference creating an asymmetrical look that lends a playfully relaxed touch liable to prove quite simply irresistible.
Introduced in 2011, the Imperiale Full Set is the very first watch in the Chopard collections to house a movement entirely developed and produced in the Fleurier Ebauches workshops owned by the Chopard group and located in the Neuchâtel Jura. In doing so, it displays the substantial advancement of the vertical integration process undertaken by Chopard in recent years. Code-named calibre CHOPARD 01.03-C, the beating heart of the Imperiale Full Set beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hertz), while its barrel ensures a 60-hour power reserve.
This range of characteristics ensures the reliability, performance and precision of this new mechanical self-winding movement. Nestling at the heart of the Imperiale Full Set and visible through the transparent case-back, the Fleurier Ebauches Calibre CHOPARD 01.03-C takes on its full dimension in its sparkling gemstone cloak.
The 40 mm cases in 18-carat white or rose gold are entirely paved with diamonds and appear like an extension of the dials, which are also diamond-set and only touched upon by the elegant dagger-shaped hour and minutes hands that elegantly move over the face of the watch.
In its white gold version, the dial, case and crown of the Imperiale are entirely paved with baguette-cut diamonds.
This luminous environment is punctuated solely by blue transferred Chopard and “Swiss Made” inscriptions appearing beneath the sapphire crystal.
In its rose gold version, the brilliant-cut diamonds adorning the lightly curved case and dial rub elegant shoulders with the baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel, while the rose gold Roman numerals and appliques accentuate this delicately woven motif.
Technical Details Case
18ct white or rose gold
Total diameter: 40.00 mm
Thickness: 10.60 mm
Water resistant to 50 metres
18ct white or rose gold crown set with brilliant- or baguette-cut diamonds
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal on front and back
Lugs set with 4 oval diamonds
Movement
Mechanical self-winding CHOPARD 01.03-C
Total diameter: 28.80 mm
Number of jewels: 27
Power reserve : 60 hours
1 barrel
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Dial and hands
18ct white or rose gold dial set with baguette- or brilliant-cut dial
Gold-toned hour-markers or no hour-markers at all
Gold-toned or rhodiumed hour and minute hands
Functions and Displays
Central hour and minute display
Strap and buckle
Alligator leather strap
18ct white or rose gold pin buckle set with brilliant- or baguette-cut diamonds
References
Ref. 384239-5003 – In 18ct rose gold set with baguette- and brilliant-cut diamonds
Ref. 384240-1001 – In 18ct white gold set with baguette-cut diamonds
Introduced in 2011, the Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono Rosso Corsa pays tribute to Italy and its famous racing colours.
The early 20th century witnessed the appearance of motor races with various countries competing against each other in cars sporting their national livery. Red was first attributed to an Italian car manufacturer before it became the colour of a whole country: Italy.
Bright red is the vivid shade adorning the dial of the Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono Rosso Corsa in reference to the “racing colours” sported by cars taking part in motor races until the late 1960s.
This extremely sporting and sophisticated watch is inspired by the legendary Mille Miglia car rally, with its Brescia-Rome-Brescia route that annually attracts the cream of classic racing cars, and which has been partnered by Chopard since 1988. The origin of “racing colours” dates back to the Gordon Bennett Cup, the famous car race that involved competing national teams from 1900 onwards. This sparked the emergence of “Vintage Blue” for France and “Rosso Corsa” for Italy, followed by “British Racing Green”, “Speed Yellow” for Belgium and “Silver Racing” for Germany.
The Mille Miglia GT Chrono Rosso Corsa features a generous 44 mm-diameter polished titanium case. Its red-varnished dial with silver-toned snailed hollowed counters echoes the colour of the stitching on the black leather strap, as well as the minute numerals transferred on the inner bezel ring. Its oversized 6 and 12 o’clock numerals transferred beneath the sapphire crystal lend an exclusive touch. Its aerodynamic titanium pushers, along with the tachometric scale engraved on the bezel, further reinforce its sporting nature. The perfect legibility of the information provided is highlighted by a sapphire crystal that is glareproofed on both sides, while the case-back is engraved with the legendary route of the Mille Miglia rally.
The Mille Miglia GT Chrono Rosso Corsa is equipped with a self-winding chronograph movement chronometer-certified by the COSC beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, meaning 4 Hertz. It is visible through the transparent case-back and has a 46-hour power reserve. It drives the hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock, a date window with integrated magnifying lens at 3 o’clock, as well as a chronograph with sweep-second hand, a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock and a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock – the latter appearing on split levels. Its case equipped with a screw-locked crown is water-resistant to 100 metres. The Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono Rosso Corsa is produced in a limited series of just 1,000 watches.
Technical details
Case
Titanium
Total diameter : 44.00 mm
Thickness: 14.36 mm
Water resistance: 100 metres
Titanium crown with Mille Miglia arrow logo
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal with magnifying lens and transferred 6 and 12 numerals on front
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal with Mille Miglia transfer on back
Titanium bezel with tachometer
Movement
Mechanical self-winding chronograph
Total diameter: 37.20 mm
Number of jewels: 25
Power reserve: 46 hours
1 barrel
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Chronometer-certified (COSC)
Dial and hands
Red varnished dial with three silver-toned snailed hollowed counters at 12, 6 and 9 o’clock
Superluminova-enhanced rhodiumed hour and minute hands
Rhodiumed sweep-second hand with red tip
Rhodiumed counter pointers
Functions and displays
Central hour and minute display
Chronograph: 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock
Date window at 3 o’clock
Tachometer
Strap and buckle
Perforated black barenia leather with red stitching
Titanium pin buckle
Inspired by the symbolic use of the moon to represent women, Glashütte Original created the PanoMatic Luna, an elegant and feminine timepiece whose beauty blossoms in the iridescent colours of its mother-of-pearl dial. Available in two versions, the off-centre hour/minute and subsidiary seconds dials are set against a shining white mother-of-pearl or mystic black dial.
A bezel set with 64 clear white diamonds frames the dial, and top-class diamonds indicating the hours encircle the hour and minute display. The elegant moon phase display presents a shining silver moon and stars against a fine-grained silver sky. A silver frame distinguishes the characteristic panorama date, and a 3.0 mm diamond on the crown provides a perfect final touch.
Inside the polished 39.4 mm stainless steel case ticks the automatic calibre 90-12. The PanoMatic Luna’s sapphire crystal case back reveals the evidence of Glashütte Original’s incomparable standards for the art of making high-end mechanical watches. The duplex swan-neck fine adjustment developed by Glashütte Original and handcrafted in the manufactory, enables an especially precise regulation of the movement’s beat and rate.
Like all movements from Germany’s mechanical watchmaker par excellence, this perfectly finished calibre also presents traditional elements of Glashütte watchmaking, such as the three-quarter plate, blued screws, and characteristic Glashütte decorations.
The PanoMatic Luna models are all available with two alternative straps of Louisiana Alligator leather or rubber. Both are outfitted with an easy changing system, allowing the owner to wear the watch with either a casual or a more elegant strap.
Technical details
References PanoMatic Luna (dark dial)
90-12-02-12-04 with rubber strap (black)
90-12-02-12-02 with Louisiana Alligator leather strap
PanoMatic Luna (bright dial)
90-12-01-12-04 with rubber strap (white)
90-12-01-12-02 with Louisiana Alligator leather strap
Case
Diameter: 39.4 mm
Height: 12.0 mm
Case material: Stainless Steel
Waterproof up to: 3 ATM
Glass: Sapphire crystal, on both sides anti-reflective
Bottom: Sapphire crystal
Dial Dark dial models: “Tahiti” mother-of-pearl dial with 18 diamonds (total approx 0.042 ct), off-centre hour, minute and small second, panorama date, moon phase silver/silver, second stop Bright dial models: Light-coloured mother-of-pearl dial with 18 diamonds (total approx 0.042 ct), off-centre hour, minute and small second, panorama date, moon phase silver/silver, second stop
Movement
Caliber 90-12 Automatic movement
Dimension: Diameter: 32.6 mm, Height: 7.0 mm
Balance: Screw balance with 18 gold weighted screws
Oscillating frequency: 28,800 vph, equivalent to 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 42 hours (+/- 5 %)
Balance spring: Nivarox flat spring
Shock protection: Incabloc
Jewel bearings: 47
Exquisitely finished movement, polished steel parts, bevelled edges, blued screws, Glashütte three-quarter plate with stripe finish, balance bridge hand-engraved, decentralised positioned and skeletonised rotor with Glashütte stripe finish, rotor with 21-ct gold oscillation weight, Duplex swan-neck fine adjustment
The Senator Automatic is an inspired tribute to the heritage of fine mechanical watchmaking from Glashütte Original. It embodies a deep respect for traditional approaches to watch design: slender black Roman numerals adorn a silver dial circumscribed by a fine black ‘railroad track’ minute ring. Pear shaped, blued steel hour and minute hands and a slim, blued steel seconds hand with double-G counterweight enhance the finely tuned harmony of the dial. The sapphire crystal, anti-reflective on both sides, affords a clear view of this simply classical design. The case is executed in polished red gold.
A sapphire crystal set in the polished case back opens up the heart of the watch to the connoisseur’s eye, offering additional, irrefutable evidence of the high art of watchmaking at Glashütte Original. A hand-crafted automatic movement from the German watchmaker’s own manufactory, the finely finished calibre 39-59 has an operating frequency of 28,800 vph (4 Hz) and a 40-hour power reserve.
Exemplary features of this superb movement include polished stainless steel components with bevelled edges, a swan-neck fine adjustment, screw-mounted gold chatons and the traditional Glashütte three-quarter plate and skeletonized rotor, both with traditional Glashütte ribbing.
A quintessential expression of high-end German mechanical watchmaking, the Senator Automatic from Glashütte Original is also available in polished stainless steel housing. Both the red gold and stainless steel editions are enhanced by a black Louisiana Alligator leather strap with a buckle.
Also available: Senator Automatic with Diamond Bezel
Technical details
Reference
39-59-01-05-04 with Red Gold case
90-12-01-12-02 with Stainless Steel case
Case
Diameter: 40.0 mm
Height: 9.9 mm
Case material: Red Gold or Stainless Steel
Waterproof up to: 5 ATM
Glass: Sapphire crystal, on both sides anti-reflective
Bottom: Sapphire crystal
Movement
Caliber 39-59 Automatic movement
Dimension: Diameter: 26.0 mm, Height: 4.3 mm
Balance: German silver balance
Oscillating frequency: 28,800 vph, equivalent to 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 40 hours (+/- 5 %)
Balance spring: Nivarox flat spring
Shock protection: Incabloc
Jewel bearings: 25
Exquisitely finished movement
Polished steel parts, bevelled edges
Glashütte three quarter plate with stripe finish
Skeletonised rotor with Glashütte stripe
Dial
Silver-coloured dial with black Roman Numerals,
Central hours, minutes and seconds, blued hands, finish swan-neck fine adjustment
Unveiled in 2011, the Limited Edition Senator Observer 1911 – Julius Assmann is an exceptional timepiece, handmade in the firm’s manufactory and limited to 25 pieces, pays homage to the pioneering spirit of two extraordinary men, Julius Assmann and Roald Amundsen.
Julius Assmann started his company at the age of 25 and is revered today as one of the founding fathers of watchmaking in Glashütte. Pocket watches, chronometers and observation watches crafted by Assmann and his employees were to play a significant role in establishing the company’s far-reaching reputation: the observation watches in particular were known for their remarkable precision and superior craftsmanship.
Before setting out on his historic voyage, Roald Amundsen acquired a number of Assmann observation watches, including one crafted by the young Glashütte watchmaker Paul Löwe in 1907/08. Löwe’s watch proved to be exceptionally precise, and he was urged to send it for testing to the German Naval Observatory in Hamburg, the institute officially responsible for testing and certifying the accuracy of navigational timekeepers made in Germany. It was there that Roald Amundsen saw the watch and he purchased it in 1910. On December 14th, 1911, the Norwegian polar explorer and his team became the first persons ever to reach the geographic South Pole.
Observation watches, also known as “deck watches” were used by navigation officers in conjunction with marine chronometers and other instruments to determine as precisely as possible a ship’s position at sea, and Amundsen will have made good use of his observation watches during his voyage to Antarctica on the polar ship, Fram. Once he and his team set out from their base camp at Framheim on the Bay of Whales, however, the time kept by his observation watches became the only standard: one watch was set to a home time and assumed the function of the marine chronometer on a ship; a second watch was set to local time; measurement of the difference between the two was used to calculate, using spherical trigonometry, the team’s position during the trek to the South Pole; a compass and sextant were also used. Thus, Amundsen’s observation watches were absolutely critical to his mission: without them, he could never have reached his destination, much less claimed victory for Norway. In Oslo today, the Fram Museum displays, along with many other artifacts documenting the historic trek, one of Amundsen’s Glashütte observation watches, complete with the inscription “J. Assmann – Glashütte” on the dial.
Observation watches continued to be manufactured in Glashütte until 1971, a testament to the ongoing production of high quality timepieces even during challenging times.
This splendid timepiece, presented in a limited edition of 25 pieces, bears the name “Senator Observer”, in honour of Julius Assmann’s observation watches and Amundsen’s achievement in reaching the South Pole. The Senator Observer 1911’s lacquered silver grain dial is built up slowly from three separate layers of white lacquer, the third of which features a finely textured, silver-grain surface. The dial presents subsidiary seconds and power reserve displays at 9 and 3 o’clock, respectively; Glashütte Original’s characteristic panorama date display at 6 o’clock; and blued and polished sweep minute and pear shaped hour hands. A milled railroad chapter ring frames the black Arabic numerals.
The Senator Observer Limited Edition 1911 – Julius Assmann features a cylindrical case fashioned in white gold, complemented by a brown calfskin strap evocative of the age of pioneering adventurers and explorers epitomized by Amundsen. The case back, engraved with the limited edition number (01/25), frames an anti-reflective sapphire crystal bearing the dates of Amundsen’s arrival at the South Pole and its centennial anniversary: 14 Dec. 1911 – 14 Dec 2011; the name Julius Assmann – Glashütte i/SA, and “Tribute to R. Amundsen”.
At the heart of the Senator Observer 1911 – Julius Assmann is the automatic Caliber 100-15, an exquisitely finished self-winding movement. Traditional observation watches used hand-wound movements; and the Senator Observer 1911 – Julius Assmann is equipped with a contemporary automatic movement from the manufactory to maximize comfort for the wearer. Thus, the ‘Ab Auf’ indicator on the dial represents a true power reserve, rather than a simple indication of running time.
Visible through the sapphire case back, the Caliber 100-15 is a fitting tribute to Julius Assmann. The movement features the characteristic Glashütte three-quarter plate, screw mounted gold chatons, and a rotor with 21-carat gold oscillating weight and the gold plated double-G mark that distinguishes high end mechanical watches from Glashütte Original.
Introduced in 2011, the Duomètre Quantième Lunaire shows time, date and the age of the moon with the unprecedented precision of the ingenious Dual-Wing-movement concept.
The Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire embodies the latest in horological achievements of JaegerLeCoultre: it displays time with a jumping seconds hand showing 1/6th of a second increments and additionally providing the date and the age of the moon in a separate sub dial.
The true genius of this watch however lies within the Dual-Wing movement concept, which features two independent power supplies: one entirely dedicated to creating a perfect timing foundation –regulated by escapement and balance –, the other solely for the display of time –hour, minute and seconds hands –as well as date and the age of the moon for the Northern as well as the Southern hemisphere. Both are synchronized through the jumping seconds hand mechanism driven by the escapement.
With the Duomètre line, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced a new concept in terms of the accuracy of mechanical wristwatches, for it devised a completely new movement structure in order to gain the highest possible precision. Therefore the watchmakers have come up with the so called Dual-Wing concept to bypass a common problem in mechanical watches: any additional complication reduces the power of the winding barrel thus depriving the precisely tuned regulation organ of a steady flow of energy from the winding barrel.
The regularity of the winding barrel’s energy to the going train and escapement remains of primary importance in order to measure time with the precision demanded for today’s mechanical wristwatches. Hence the influence of any given complication to the long-term rate of a watch can lead to deviations in time measurement hardly acceptable in such a valuable timepiece. This fact can be overcome by using a fully independent power source to run the complication, separating its power supply from that of the basic movement, which in turn is fed by its own winding barrel thus ensuring a constant flow of energy. Therefore the dual-wing concept, first introduced in the Duomètre à Chronographe in 2007, is also incorporated in the Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire leading to a tremendous increase of accuracy in complication movements.
Their utmost attention to such details proves that the specialists at Jaeger-LeCoultre have developed a dual-wing calendar-watch of exceptional characteristics, with levels of accuracy that until now could only have been reached by watches without complications. Such a sophisticated approach to timekeeping precision is a typical advantage that 178 years of expertise in high horology can bring.
The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 381 is executed and decorated with distinguishing decors for the corresponding parts of each function of the movement. These fine details can be appreciated through the sapphire case back of the wristwatch, visually in accordance with the typical Duomètre design: classical and understated with a touch of extravagance. Even though the watchcase houses a complex movement, its open worked dial provides clarity and ensures easy reading by being divided into two sections according to their functions: Hour and minute on the right hand side, date and moon phase on the left hand side, a central seconds hand and the jumping seconds in the lower middle of the watch.
The Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire will be produced in a limited edition of 200 white gold watches. With the new Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire, the watchmakers of Jaeger-LeCoultre are setting standards in the world of haute horlogerie by pushing precision to new heights.
The Dual-Wing Movement –a different concept of timekeeping
Since the brand’s inception 180 years ago, the quest for precision and reliability was the driving force and inspiration behind the efforts of the watchmakers of Jaeger-LeCoultre. With each new invention the Manufacture could build upon the know-how gained through the design and production of some of the most astounding movements in the history of Swiss watchmaking: the Gyrotourbillon I with its spherical tourbillon; the Master Minute Repeater with its unique sound system; the Reverso grande complication à triptyque, the most complicated swivel-watch; the Master Compressor Extreme LAB, the first watch running completely without lubrication; and the Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie, the longest sonnerie of all times. Those pinnacles of horological genius alone guarantee the Manufacture a leading position in the history books of the Swiss watchmaking industry.
For the newly developed dual-wing movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre has once again left the beaten paths in order to invent a completely new movement design that focuses on the issues of accuracy for mechanical watches with complications. In a traditional complication wristwatch any function not constantly attached to the going train makes the watch’s rate deviate upon its activation: a chronograph as it is switched on, a repeater while ringing or even a calendar function that couples just once a day into the running movement –each leads to a drop in the amplitude of the balance wheel, and a deviation in timing, as they absorb power for their own requirements. Those amplitude-changes, summed up in the course of weeks, lead to an intolerable inaccuracy in the measurement of time.
To bypass this problem, the Duomètre watches feature two independent watch-mechanisms within one calibre: one going train is serving the measurement of time and the other the operation of the complication – with both being synchronized through the jumping seconds hand mechanism, the so-called “Seconde Foudroyante”. This shared regulating organ ensures chronometer-worthy precision without interruption as no complication is coupled into the gear train of the timing device.
In 2007, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched a chronograph as first watch of the Duomètre line, the Duomètre à Chronographe. Being one of the first chronograph watches with a completely new movement constructed within the last 160 years –it was honored for its unique concept with prestigious awards from the watch world.
With Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire, the Grande Maison presents a date-mooncomplication in the dual-wing concept. It shows hour, minute, second and a jumping-second as well as date and age of the moon for the northern and the southern hemisphere. Although the Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire houses an exceptionally complex calibre with two barrels and over 369 parts, it features easy readability and a sleek design.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 381
The Dual-Wing Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 381 is dedicated to achieving the highest possible precision for a mechanical movement. And thanks to its unique concept the watch reaches a level of accuracy unprecedented for complicated watches. The calibre is divided into two sections just like two wings –hence the name dual-wing. On each side sits one barrel with its mainspring guaranteeing a power reserve of 50 hours: one for hour, minute, seconds, jumping seconds, the date and the age ofthe moon, the other for the escapment device to ensure a constant power supply. Both springs are wound through the crown: rotating it clockwise, winds the timing barrel (escapment), turning the crown counter-clockwise winds the power reserve of the functions (hour, minute, seconds, jumping seconds, date, moonphase).
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 381 is remarkably beautiful and superbly finished. It features a large balance wheel of 10 millimeters in diameter and inertia of 11.5 mg cm beating at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour or 3 Hertz. And its newfound freedom in movement design represents a technical breakthrough, implemented in harmony with the noble traditions of fine watchmaking.
The jumping seconds hand
Coupling the two mechanisms via the jumping seconds hand mechanism brings advantages to this unusual watch: the watch can be adjusted to a timing signal without stopping the escapement –thereby making it even more of a precision watch. The watch features two seconds hands. One at the center and a second one at 6 o’clock: a jumping seconds hand accurate to 1/6th of a second. Setting the time is easily performed by pulling the crown: Then both seconds hands, the center seconds hand and the jumping seconds hand jump to the zero-position leaving the escapement running. Pushing the crown activates both hands simultaneously by re-coupling into the running escapement.
Once released, the wheels of the hands simply interlock with the active mechanism and begin to turn on the spot at the speed of the clock, which is 3 Hertz. This accuracy is reached instantaneously because the balance has been breathing even with the hands on hold. Whereas with the traditional second’s stop, which freezes the balance wheel, the watch needs several minutes before it is back in its original rhythm –minutes, in which the balance wheel has to pick up speed again and which add up to a time deviation of many seconds. Thus precise adjustment with a timing signal for normal watches remains an illusion.
The mechanism behind the two hands is based on two escape wheels fixed to the same axis: one works with the lever while the other is driving the seconde foudroyante through the jumping seconds star. Upon pulling the crown, a lever is stopping the jumping second when it reaches the zero-position. At the same time a “return to zero” hammer pushes the central second’s hand to the 12 o’clock position through the use of a seconds heart cam. No other watch allows for such an accurate setting of the time, and this technicalfeature is perfectly in line with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s quest for even more accuracy in timekeeping.
The moon phase and date
The complication of the Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire shows on the one hand the most important calendar function –the date –and on the other hand the most romantic one: the age of the moon. The date indication runs around the sub dial on the left side of the watch. A long hand in the center indicates the age of the moon.
With the duration of the lunar cycle, the watchmakers of Jaeger-LeCoultre relied on the traditional star wheel with 59 teeth, which shows a full moon cycle in 29.5 days. Because the length of the cycle in nature is 29.53 days, an error of 44 minutes and 2.8 seconds per month (or 9 hours per year) occurs with theindicated age of the moon. It sums up to a full day in the course of three years –a deviation easily corrected through a pusher on the side of the case at the 12 o’clock position.
Sleek design and exceptional finishing
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 381 is beautifully finished to the highest standards of classical watchmaking, as can be admired through the sapphire case back: The two independent barrels are snailed and bevelled by hand, while the ratchet-wheels are brushed with sunray-patterns and engraved and gilded “Mouvement” and “heure/minute” indication respectively. The hand bevelled bridges, as well as the polished sinks distinguish between the standard watch mechanism and the date-moon-complication in the dual-wing concept: the bridges of the first are held in taut, straight shapes and the latter in arabesque motives. The going trains are circular satin-brushed. The wheels and pinions feature snailed and smoothened surfaces. Flame-blued steel screws and a base plate of untreated nickel-silver highlight the complex nature of this exceptional calibre and its roots in traditional high horology.
The 42-millimeter-watch-case has the distinct aesthetics of the Duomètre collection: polished and satin brushed finishes harmonize with the cambered sapphireglass –the design having its roots in the lines of the most famous pocket watches built by Jaeger-LeCoultre. Following the Duomètre principle, the case is produced only in precious materials –as to highlight the value of the dual-wing concept. The watch was introduced in a limited edition of 200 in white gold, combining the traditional look of its historical predecessors with an up-to-date movement that lifts mechanical timekeeping to the demands of today.
The case, which is waterproof down to 5 bar, uses a push button at 10 o’clock to set the date and a pusher between the lugs at 12 to adjust the moon phase. The lugs of the case are formed seamlessly into the lines of the matt black or chocolate brown alligator strap with a double folding clasp.
The finely grained surface treatment of the Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire’s dial reflects purity and culminates in peerless readability. The different functions are all set apart in their own sub dials –divided according to the double-wing movement concept: Hour and minute placed on the right hand side, date and age of moon on the left, the large seconds hand at the center of the dial and the jumping second’s hand on the lower middle part.
To see this exceptional movement in full bloom however, the designers have also used a sapphire glass in the case back.
The Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire is a splendid new interpretation of the Dual-Wing concept. In a unique mix of aesthetical purity and mechanical complexity it illustrates JaegerLeCoultre’s leadingrole in the field of high watchmaking: setting the pace for new inventions thorough the knowledge of its past and profound research in contemporary watchmaking.
Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire: Technical characteristics
The Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire watch displays time with a jumping seconds hand showing 1/6th of a second increments and additionally providing the date and the age of the moon in a separate sub dial. Its unique Dual-Wing movement concept features two independent power supplies: one entirely dedicated to creating a perfect timing foundation –regulated by escapement and balance –, the other solely for the display of time –hour, minute and seconds hands –as well as date and the age of the moon for the Northern as well as the Southern hemisphere. Both are synchronized through the jumping seconds hand mechanism driven by the escapement.
Movement
Mechanical manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 381, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand
21,600 vibrations per hour
50-hour power reserve
369 parts
40 jewels
7.25 mm high
33.7 mm diameter
Two independent barrels
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, jumping-second, date, moon-phase (North and South), age of the moon, power reserve
Movement power reserve
Dial
Black, matt with appliqués numerals
Hands
Hour and minute: leaf-type, brass, gold-plated
Seconds: baton with pear-shaped counterweight, gold-plated
Crown
1 crown to start the watch, to wind the watch functions power reserve, to wind the movement power reserve and to adjust the hours and minutes
1 push piece to set the date
1 corrector to set the moon phase
Case
Diameter 42 mm, thickness: 13.5 mm
18-carat white gold
Welded lugs
Polished and satin-brushed finishing
Cambered sapphire crystals, hardness N° 9, glare-proofed on front and back
Water resistance: 5 atm
Straps
Matt black alligator leather with folding clasp in 18-carat white gold
Introduced in 2011, this timepiece collection from BOVET offers a bouquet of flowers to women. The 39 millimetre diameter of the convertible AMADEO case, available in red or white gold 18k, is home to one of eight works of art hand-painted on mother-of-pearl by a master craftsman at the Manufactory in Fleurier.
Fleurier, the village where BOVET was established in 1822, takes its name from its location in the heart of the “valley of a thousand flowers”. It is only natural therefore that pansies, irises, pond lilies, roses, magnolias, begonias, lily of the valley and peonies should be depicted on black or white mother-of-pearl in such fine detail that one can almost sense their fragrance. In this infinitely variable collection, every woman can receive the flower that best matches her unique personality.
“A humble flower is the work of centuries”. This quotation from William Blake, a contemporary of Edouard Bovet, rings even truer when we consider that every dial is the fruit of two centuries of experience and requires many hours of painstaking work to faithfully restore the silky texture and volume of each flower in this veritable botanical collection.
Unveiled in 2010, the AMADEO concept allows the timepiece to be converted into a wristwatch, a miniature table clock or a pendant watch through simple manipulations that require no tools whatsoever.
Technical details Case, dial and strap
Type: AMADEO® Convertible (wristwatch, table clock, pendant watch)
Diameter: 39mm
Material: 18-carat red or white gold
Water-resistance: 3 ATM – 30 metres
Bracelet: Alligator full leather
Buckle: 18-carat red or white gold pin buckle
Chain: Silver-plated, red gold or rhodium-plated
Movement
Calibre 11BA12
Type: Self-winding
Diameter: 26.00mm / 11 1/2’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours
Excalibur Flying Tourbillon Chronograph with single-pusher model was launched as a tribute to a tribute to the Geneva Seal, which celebrated its 125th anniversary in 2011. This limited edition timepiece is the first ROGER DUBUIS timepiece to meet the new requirements of the Geneva Seal unveiled on 9 November 2011. It is also important to note that, now ROGER DUBUIS is the only watchmaker to have every one of its movements stamped with the Geneva Seal, the pledge of handcrafted excellence.
The Excalibur Flying Tourbillon Chronograph with single-pusher and power reserve display is equipped with the new RD580 calibre and produced in a limited edition of just 8 pieces, this outstanding model will be the brand’s first timepiece to obtain Geneva Seal certification according to the new, even more demanding specifications. From 2012, all new ROGER DUBUIS models will fulfill the new requirements that must be met before Geneva Seal certification is awarded.
This new Chronograph with Flying Tourbillon and single-pusher, housed in a 45 mm diameter pink-gold case, is the perfect incarnation of the avant-garde spirit that personifies the Genevan Manufacture. In addition to the flying tourbillon at 9 o’clock, the power reserve display at 12 o’clock and the 45-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock, this new arrival in the Excalibur collection is distinguished by its platinum micro-rotor, visible from the dial side of the watch. And exceptionally, this oscillating weight bears in full view on its exposed portion the Geneva Seal – normally stamped only on the movement – supplemented on either side with the inscription «125 years».
The Geneva Seal officially came into force in 1886; and in 2011 on its 125th anniversary new requirements outlined. Bestowed by the State of Geneva on a select few watchmakers, it constitutes the official guarantee that the mechanical watch movement is hand-made, assembled and regulated in Geneva and that it respects the strict requirements of handcrafted excellence in watchmaking. Every component of a movement bearing the Seal is hand-finished and finely decorated, even those that are never exposed to view.
The new requirements outlined by the Geneva Seal – unveiled on 9 November 2011 – focus even more closely on customers and their expectations. While the conditions imposed up to now remain unchanged, new requirements now complement them. Principal change: from now on, the entire watch is Geneva Seal certified, no longer the movement alone. In addition, the Geneva Seal now certifies the functions claimed for the watch, for example water-resistance or the power reserve display.
Launched in 2011, this automatic watch follows the footsteps of MeisterSingers N° 01 that has to be wounded by hand. The typical clear Look of the watch leads its carrier to the heart of the brand and reflects the principle of simple elegance: The fine hand of the watch and a very clear typography of the dial are evidence of symmetry and balance. No sweep hand, no minute hand, no date, no trailing pointer, no second or third time zone. In this model, timekeeping is looked after by the Swiss made self-winding movement that beats inside the case.
These classics of MeisterSinger are available in two dimensions and different colours: silver – white, classic ivory, and sun decor anthracite (43mm). Furthermore, the black dial is available in two alternatives: hands and figures in white and red gold.
Technical details
Model: N° 03
Movement: ETA 2824-2 or SELLITA 200-1, Automatic
Diameter: 43/38 mm
Case: Stainless steel, sextuple screwed exhibition back, 5 bars, Glass of sapphire
Power reserve: 48 hours, Date display
Alternatives
Silver – white (43/38mm), black with white hands and figures (43/38mm), Ivory (43/38mm), and black with red gold hands and figures (43/38mm), Sun decor Anthracite (43mm)
Introduced in 2011, the Pangaea Automatik from MeisterSinger features a slim and sleek design. With no minute, or second hand, second or third time zones and no winding, the perception of the passing hours automatically slows down. Balance and refinement are keys to the elegant appearance of Pangaea Automatik. The 40mm diameter case which is 9.4mm in depth, will appeal to both men and women.
Turn it over and admire the fluid curves of the case surrounding the exhibition back, through which the engraved automatic movement can be seen. The strap is high quality calf skin attached almost seamlessly to the watch case. The dial design is classic MeisterSinger. As varied as the suits in the wardrobe the Pangaea Automatik colours are: anthracite and chocolate with a sunburst design, white, black and, of course, the MeisterSinger hallmark ivory.
Technical details
Model Pangaea Automatik
Movement: ETA 2892 Automatic
Case size: 40mm ò height 9.4mm
Casing: Stainless steel with exhibition back
Power reserve: 48 hours
Water-resistant: to 5 bar
Dial colours: White, black, ivory, anthracite sunburst
Since 1822, BOVET has been a true pioneer in the world of luxury watchmaking and has won acclaim for protecting the heritage of traditional craftsmen’s skills such as engraving and miniature painting.
The four pieces presented here owe their existence to this time-honoured expertise and the inventiveness of their creators. They are powered by a tourbillon movement developed and manufactured by DIMIER 1738 Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Artisanale and feature the AMADEO case, which allows each timepiece to be converted into a reversible wristwatch, a miniature table clock or a pocket watch without the use of any tools whatsoever.
Fleurier AMADEO Tourbillon 7-Day Reversed Hand-Fitting “Dragon Email Grand-Feu”
Grand Feu enamelling is the oldest method of figurative decoration used in watchmaking. It is this technique that was used to decorate BOVET pocket watches in the 19th century and which today remains extremely popular among collectors. Contrary to miniature painting on mother-of-pearl, the artist does not paint the motif directly onto the base of the dial but deposits different oxides onto the gold dial which acquire their colour and transparency as they melt in the course of successive firings.
The motif is therefore revealed slowly after these heat treatments (between 8 and 15 depending on the complexity of the motif and the number of colours). Furnace temperatures vary between 800 and 900°C. The artist determines the duration of each firing according to the result he wishes to obtain. It is probably the most difficult and complex method to use, however the hardness of the enamel gives the dial a solidity that will endure for centuries, during which time its colours will stay fast.
The dragon that decorates this Tourbillon with 7-day power reserve and reversed hand-fitting is the fruit of around a hundred hours work. It is the finest expression of watchmaking art as perpetuated by BOVET since 1822.
Case
Type: AMADEO® Convertible (wristwatch, table clock, pocket watch)
Diameter: 44 mm
Material: 18-carat white gold
Water-resistance: 3 ATM – 30 metres
Bracelet: Alligator full leather
Buckle: 18-carat white gold pin buckle
Chain: 18-carat white gold
Dials
Front: Black enamelled white gold indices
Rear: “Grand-Feu enamelled dragon”
Movement
Calibre Dimier 13BM07AI
Type: Manually wound Tourbillon
Diameter: 13 ¾ ‘’’
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 7 days
Fleurier AMADEO Tourbillon 5-Day Jumping Hours Reversed Hand-Fitting “Dame de Shanghai”
The geometry of this timepiece is both original and balanced. An aperture at 6 o’clock displays the jumping hours disc. Minutes are indicated by a mobile index which runs over the inner circumference of the flange. The seconds hand is carried by the upper pivot of the tourbillon cage situated at 3 o’clock, while the power reserve indicator is at 9 o’clock.
Since the bridges and bottom plate are visible, they have been given a Fleurisanne hand-engraved decoration. The reversed hand-fitting allows the indication of hours and minutes to be transferred to the other face of the timepiece, where the “Lady of Shanghai” is revealed. The technique used is that of enamel lacquering. This practice is based on techniques for which BOVET was famous in the 19th century and has been developed by one of the craftsmen working exclusively for BOVET to reveal all of the qualities of Japanese ware. Of the different techniques still in use today, this method not only ensures the highest definition of detail but also offers greater shock-resistance than enamel. Like other techniques such as Grand-Feu enamelling, enamel lacquering requires a large number of successive firings according to the complexity of the motif and the number of colors involved. Facial expressions and draped fabric are among the most difficult subjects to render with this technique and the time needed to execute such work is measured in hundreds of hours.
Case
Type: AMADEO® Convertible (wristwatch, table clock, pocket watch)
Diameter: 47 mm
Material: 18-carat red gold
Water-resistance: 3 ATM – 30 metres
Bracelet: Alligator full leather
Buckle: 18-carat red gold pin buckle
Chain: 18-carat red gold
Dials
Front: Openwork with Fleurisanne hand-engraved decoration
Rear: “Lady of Shanghai” miniature painting on white mother-of-pearl
Movement
Calibre: Dimier 13BM05AI
Type: Manually wound Tourbillon
Diameter: 13 ¾ ‘’’ and 16’’’ module
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 5 days
Fleurier AMADEO Tourbillon 7-Day Orbis Mundi® Reversed Hand-Fitting “Carpes Koï” and Fleurier AMADEO Tourbillon 7-Day Reversed Hand-Fitting “Dragon”These two unique pieces are the first creations made possible by a new technique developed by one of the craftsmen employed by BOVET. This development of age-old skills combines engraving and miniature painting. Firstly, the craftsman “outlines” the motif with a bas-relief engraving. The artist then finishes the dial by applying cold translucent enamel and using the same miniature painting techniques as for the “Lady of Shanghai”.
The “Carpes Koï” shown on the Orbis Mundi Tourbillon with 7-day power reserve and reversed hand-fitting have been depicted according to Japanese graphic tradition. Respected and honoured in China and Japan, the Koi Carp is a symbol of love.
Like the carp, the dragon is an integral part of Asian mythology. Peace-loving, it embodies power and its spirit is closely linked to the climate.
To produce the example shown on the dial of the Tourbillon 7 Day Reversed HandFitting, the artist spared no effort since the engraving is made on six different levels. As on the “Koi Carp” dial, the artist finishes his work with a miniature painting which would be termed traditional were it applied to a flat surface.
Through this combination of materials, textures, volumes, iridescent reflections and colours, the tiniest detail appears with such clarity that the dragon seems ready to spring to life with every passing second recorded by the precision Manufactory Tourbillon.
With these four creations, BOVET’s excellence in the watchmaking decorative arts helps not only to conserve skills in danger of being lost forever, but also breathes new life into these techniques by bringing them one step closer to perfection.
Model: Fleurier AMADEO ® Tourbillon 7-Day Orbis Mundi ® Reversed Hand-Fitting “Carpes Koï” Unique piece
Case
Type: AMADEO® Convertible (wristwatch, table clock, pocket watch)
Diameter: 46 mm
Material: 18-carat red gold
Water-resistance: 3 ATM – 30 metres
Bracelet: Alligator full leather
Buckle: 18-carat red gold pin buckle
Chain: 18-carat red gold
Dials
Front: Black enamelled red gold indices
Rear: “Koi Carp”Engraving and miniature painting on mother-of-pearl
Movement
Calibre Dimier 13BM06AI
Type: Manually wound Tourbillon
Diameter: 13 ¾ ‘’’ and 16’’’ module
Frequency : 21,600 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 7 days
The TUDOR Clair de Rose line takes its inspiration from a world of reverie and moonlit nights and transports us into a unique delicate and sophisticated universe. The centre seconds hand in the form of a cut-out TUDOR rose lends captivating and infinite charm to the timepiece.
Roundness and softness come to mind to define its cushion-shaped case, its curving silhouette and domed sapphire crystal. The looped decorations harmoniously enveloping the winding crown are a subtle detail of jewellery design. The crown is topped with a transparent dome containing a rose, the logo of the TUDOR brand in the 1950s.
Softness also characterizes the cloud-inspired, stylized scroll motif on the mother of-pearl dial, applied using an elaborate procedure ; the rounded cut-out hands add yet another hint of softness. In the gem-set version, the central rose evokes a full moon in a starry sky.
The fabric strap features the same scroll motif on a satin background, an extra touch of refinement. The triple fitting attaching the bracelet to the case adds a mechanical aspect and creates an unexpected contrast that enhances the piece.
The TUDOR Clair de Rose comes in three sizes with a 26 mm, 30 mm or 34 mm case. Available in steel or in steel and 18 ct pink gold, this model comes with a vintage steel bracelet, a reinterpretation of the “rice grain” bracelets of the 1950s, or a satin or fabric strap. The mother-of-pearl dial, with or without gem-setting, is available in Sky, White, Jade or Tahiti Pearl.
TUDOR CLAIR DE ROSE References 35700 and 35701
34 mm steel case with polished finish
Steel or 18 ct pink gold bezel with polished finish
Self-winding mechanical movement
Power reserve of approximately 38 hours
Cut-out TUDOR rose centre seconds hand
Steel or 18 ct pink gold screw-down winding crown with dome
Mother-of-pearl dial
Date at 3 o’clock
Domed sapphire crystal
Waterproof to a depth of 100 m (330 ft)
Steel bracelet with safety catch; satin or fabric strap with buckle; steel or 18 ct pink gold fittings
References 35400 and 35401
30 mm steel case with polished finish
Steel or 18 ct pink gold bezel with polished finish
Self-winding mechanical movement
Power reserve of approximately 38 hours
Cut-out TUDOR rose centre seconds hand
Steel or 18 ct pink gold screw-downwinding crown with dome
Mother-of-pearl dial
Date at 3 o’clock
Domed sapphire crystal
Waterproof to a depth of 100 m (330 ft)
Steel bracelet with safety catch ;satin or fabric strap with buckle ;steel or 18 ct pink gold fittings
References 35100 and 35101
26 mm steel case with polished finish
Steel or 18 ct pink gold bezel with polished finish
Self-winding mechanical movement
Power reserve of approximately 38 hours
Cut-out TUDOR rose centre seconds hand
Steel or 18 ct pink gold screw-downwinding crown with dome
Mother-of-pearl dial
Date at 3 o’clock
Domed sapphire crystal
Waterproof to a depth of 100 m (330 ft)
Steel bracelet with safety catch ;satin or fabric strap with buckle ;steel or 18 ct pink gold fittings
Introduced in 2011, the DOXA SUB 4000T Professional is a rugged diving watch designed for adventurers who love to explore ocean depths.
Designed to perform during the most extreme conditions, the DOXA SUB 4000T comes in a massive 46 mm stainless steel case which houses a Swiss Made automatic movement. It carries the most desirable features of a deep diving watch: Luminous hands and hour markers for high legibility during poor light conditions, the rotating bezel indicating the decompression table, and the helium valve at 9 o’clock to protect the timepiece from the extreme pressure of water.
DOXA SUB 4000T Professional offers water-resistance to a depth of 1,220 metres (4000 feet). This edition was limited to 500 pieces.
In 2012, a new model was added to SUB 4000T collection. Proposed in a limited edition of 200 pieces, the new model was equipped with a sapphire crystal bezel. Other technical details of this new model remains same.
Technical details Movement
Automatic, 42-hour power reserve
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date and power-reserve indicator
Case
Polished and satin-finished stainless steel, 46 mm
Unidirectional rotating bezel (Sapphire crystal unidirectional rotating bezel for 2012 model)with decompression table in feet or
Scratch-resistant, anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Screw-down, engraved, numbered back
Helium valve at 9 o’clock
Water-resistant to 1,220 m (4000 ft)
Dial
Orange or black
Luminescent hourmarkers and hands
Date window at 3 o’clock, power reserve at 7 o’clock
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel with folding clasp and diving-suit extension system
The history of the Chopard Company, founded in 1860, has been marked by many significant moments. 1937 was one of these fundamental years, as this was when the founder’s grandson Paul-André Chopard chose to leave the Jura region where Louis-Ulysse Chopard set up his first workshop, in order to establish the brand in Geneva. It was in the latter canton that Chopard subsequently built its current success. In tribute to this historical landmark, the Manufacture first presented the L.U.C 1937 model in 2010 with its pure, understated lines embodying a significant facet of the company’s watchmaking heritage.
In 2011, two new versions of this classic steel watch were introduced: one with a porcelain-type white dial and the other with a satin-finished silver-toned dial. The core of this collection is the high performance L.U.C 1.010 movement.
The first model features a porcelain-type white dial with black transferred Roman numerals and minute track. The second has a satin-brushed silver-toned dial punctuated by applied rhodiumed Roman numerals and a transferred minute track. Both have Dauphine hands personalised for the L.U.C collection in rhodium or black depending on the version.
The 42 mm-diameter steel case of the L.U.C 1937 model is characterised by an innovative profile and timeless curves. Its screw-lock crown at 3 o’clock guarantees water resistance to 50 metres. It is adorned with a vertical satin-brushed finish on the sides, along with polished lugs and a sapphire crystal case-back.
The L.U.C 1937 model beats to the rhythm of the L.U.C Calibre 1.010 and its 28,800 vibrations per hour. This mechanical self-winding movement is chronometer-certified by the COSC and has a 60-hour power reserve. Its construction designed to achieve faultless reliability drives the hours, minutes and central seconds hands, as well as a date display through a window at 6 o’clock. It also features a stop-seconds function enabling easy and accurate time-setting.
The precise and high-performance L.U.C Calibre 1.010 represents a significant landmark in the history of L.U.C movements, since its construction serves to increase production volumes and thus consolidate Chopard’s independence.
These elegant L.U.C 1937 men’s watches are fitted with a black alligator leather strap lined with brown alligator leather and secured by a steel pin buckle.
Technical details Case
Satin-brushed/polished steel case
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Thickness: 11.39 mm
Water-resistant to 50 metres
Steel crown with L.U.C logo: 6.00 mm
Glare-proofed sapphire crystals on front and back
Movement
Mechanical self-winding L.U.C 1.010
Total diameter: 28.80 mm
Thickness: 4.95 mm
Number of jewels: 31
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve : 60 hours
1 barrel
Chronometer certification (COSC)
Côtes de Genève adorned bridges
Dial and hands
Satin-brushed silver-toned or porcelain-type white dial
Rhodiumed or black transferred Roman numerals
Rhodiumed or black Dauphine fuse-type hour, minute and second hands
Functions and displays
Display of the hours, minutes and central seconds hand
Date window at 6 o’clock
Strap and buckle
Black hand-sewn alligator leather lined with brown alligator leather
Steel pin buckle
References
Ref. 168544-3001 – with porcelain-type white dial
Ref. 168544-3002 – with satin-brushed silver-toned dial
Unveiled at Baselworld 2011, these L.U.C XP Urushi timepieces are created in association with Kiichiro Masumura, the world renowned Urushi artist who has been awarded with the title “Living National Treasure” by the Japanese government. His magnificent works of art are magnificently showcased within the understated lines of the L.U.C XP, an ultra-thin model equipped with the mechanical self-winding L.U.C 96HM movement.
The “Living National Treasure” concept was developed in 1950 by the Japanese government and used to define all those to contribute to preserving a heritage, a culture and ancestral skills such as Urushi.
Urushi is the ancestral Japanese art of lacquering. The varnish is made from the sap of the Urushi tree, also known as the “lacquer tree” or the “Japanese varnish tree” – and which mainly grows in Japan and China. The harvesting of the resin, somewhat like the rubber from the hevea Brasiliensis or “rubber tree”, can only be done once a year and in very small quantities. Three to five years after being harvested, the resin is treated to make an extremely resistant, honey-textured lacquer. It is applied in exceptionally fine successive layers, traditionally on daily objects such as bowls or boxes. Maki-e is a specific Urushi technique that consists of sprinkling the lacquer with metal powder – in this case gold – in order to accentuate its contours. The gold dust is applied using bamboo tubes and small brushes made from rat’s hair, in order to trace extremely fine lines. This art calls for extreme expertise and only a few “Urushi Masters” – including Kiichiro Masumura – still exercise it today with consummate skill.
The L.U.C XP Urushi is the first timepiece with a dial adorned in this way. In 2009, a few initial models were crafted and presented exclusively in Japan. The Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi collection comprises of timepieces featuring nine different dials technically supervised by Kiichiro Masumura and designed, painted and adorned with gold dust by the Yamada Heiando Company an official supplier to the Emperor of Japan.
These works represent the five basic elements of the universe according to the ancient philosophy of Chinese natural science, and one portrays the universe itself. The five legendary creatures – the dragon with a blue horn, the phoenix, the qilin in the moonlight, the crouching tiger and the genbu (a blend of precious snake and tortoise) respectively evoke wood, fire, earth, metal and water.
The last three dials feature a peacock, a red fish and the jungle. Each meticulously painted and unique model reveals a wealth of original details imbued with a deep sense of poetry.
The Chopard L.U.C XP is a supremely elegant ultra-thin model measuring a mere 6.8 mm thickness is the epitome of perfect watchmaking mastery. Designing and producing a mechanical self-winding movement equipped with two barrels and a 65-hour power reserve that could be accommodated within such a thin case is a truly impressive accomplishment.
The watchmakers of Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier have achieved this feature by means of a clever construction based on an off-centred rotor. The designers have also subtly worked the round case with its broad 39.5 mm diameter to give it a sleeker profile with a thin bezel and an extremely fine “caseband”.
Featuring a case crafted in 18-carat rose gold (or white gold for the Universe dial version only), and fitted with a black alligator leather strap, the L.U.C XP Urushi models are delivered with a special presentation box also decorated according to Urushi techniques. Black on the inside and adorned in Maki-e gold on the outside, its octagonal shape is an oriental symbol of gaiety. A small silk cord serving as a lock, along with the seals of Kiichiro Masumura and Yamada Heiando, endow this object a truly timeless dimension.
Technical details Case
18ct rose gold case
Total diameter: 39.50 mm
Thickness: 6.80 mm
Water-resistant to 30 metres
18ct rose gold crown with L.U.C logo: 4.00 mm
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal on front and back
Movement
Mechanical self-winding movement: L.U.C 96HM
Diameter: 27.40 mm
Thickness: 3.30 mm
Number of jewels: 29
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 65 hours
2 barrels Twin® technology
Côtes de Genève adorned bridges
Dial and hands
“Urushi” dials
Gold-toned Dauphine hour and minute hands
Functions and displays
Central hour and minute display
Strap and buckle
Black alligator leather strap lined with brown alligator leather
18ct rose gold pin buckle
References
Ref. 161902-5049 – in 18ct rose gold with Peacock dial
Ref. 161902-5048 – in 18ct rose gold with Tiger dial
Ref. 161902-5050 – in 18ct rose gold with Jungle dial
Introduced in 2011, the Adamavi range is a stunning ladies’ watch collection that stands for the pleasure provided by timeless design and for a unique philosophy: the striving to preserve things of proven value.
Since it was founded over 120 years ago, the Bucherer enterprise has remained in the sole possession of the family of the founder, Carl Friedrich Bucherer. As a result of this continuity the Carl F. Bucherer watch brand, which has been independent since 2001, has become a quality brand whose success is based on a valuable store of experience in the field of mechanical watchmaking and the art of jewellery. Although Carl F. Bucherer stands for a constant drive for innovation and a high degree of technical development, it is of great importance to the brand that proven technologies and design elements should be carried over into the future.
The principle of holding on to the proven values of the past is embodied in the classic appearance of the watches in the Adamavi family. The very name Adamavi stands for a feeling that these watches trigger in the wearer: translated from the Latin, Adamavi literally means “to come to love something” or “to take pleasure in something”. Because all the models in the range are characterized by timeless simplicity and mechanical reliability, they are more than just timepieces.
They are true companions, whose visual appeal will outlast the short-lived trends of our present time, conferring an aura of reliability and continuity upon their owners.
With their understated and enduring design, watches bearing the name of Adamavi can be worn on any occasion. These puristic timepieces have their own aesthetic continuity, and therefore represent real value that is certain and timeless.
One striking model in the Adamavi family is the Adamavi Pavé, perfectly executed in 18 K rose gold. The dial and bezel are set with sparkling diamonds, arranged in circles from the center outwards. In combination with the gold-colored baton markers, they suggest a shimmering sun whose radiant power lasts forever.
Reference number: 00.10307.03.16.01
Movement: automatic, ETA 2892-A2 caliber, diameter 26.2 mm, height 3.6 mm, 21 jewels, power reserve 42 hours
Functions: date, hours, minutes
Case: 18 K rose gold, sapphire crystal, sapphire crystal case back, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 36 mm, height 7.2 mm
Strap: alligator leather, 18 K rose gold pin buckle
Variants
00.10307.03.16.31: case with 46 diamonds 0.52 ct, 18 K rose gold bracelet
00.10307.03.16.11: case with 46 diamonds 0.52 ct, alligator leather strap, 18 K rose gold pin buckle
00.10307.03.16.21: 18 K rose gold bracelet
00.10307.03.13.01: alligator leather strap, 18 K rose gold pin buckle
Reference number: 00.10308.03.16.01
Movement: quartz
Functions: hours, minutes
Case: 18 K rose gold, sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 26 mm, height 4.75 mm
Strap: alligator leather, 18 K rose gold pin buckle
Variants
00.10308.03.16.31: case with 44 diamonds 0.35 ct, 18 K rose gold bracelet
00.10308.03.16.21: 18 K rose gold bracelet
00.10308.03.16.11: case with 44 diamonds 0.35 ct, alligator leather strap, 18 K rose gold pin buckle
Reference number: 00.10309.03.93.31
Movement: automatic, ETA 2892-A2 caliber, diameter 26.2 mm, height 3.6 mm, 21 jewels, power reserve 42 hours
Functions: date, hours, minutes
Case: 18 K rose gold, 46 diamonds 0.52 ct, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 36 mm, height 8 mm
Dial: 345 diamonds TW vvs
Bracelet: 18 K rose gold, 18 K rose gold folding clasp
Variant: 00.10309.03.93.12: case with 58 diamonds 0.7 ct, alligator leather strap, 18 K rose gold pin buckle
Reference number: 00.10310.03.93.11
Movement: Quartz
Functions: hours, minutes
Case: 18 K rose gold, 44 diamonds 0.35 ct, sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 26 mm, height 5.75 mm
Dial: 231 diamonds TW vvs
Strap: Alligator leather, 18 K rose gold pin buckle
Variant: 00.10310.03.93.31: 18 K rose gold bracelet
This website uses cookies to improve your experience. We'll assume you're ok with this, but you can opt-out if you wish.AcceptRejectRead More
Privacy & Cookies Policy
Privacy Overview
This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Out of these, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience.
Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. These cookies do not store any personal information.
Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website.
_1031.jpg)
