As an independent watch brand McGonigle Watches made its debut at Baselworld in 2007 by launching its first timepiece, the McGonigle Tourbillon.
Dressed in white or rose gold, the case of McGonigle Tourbillon has a slightly oval shape with dimensions 43/42mm. It boasts a two layer dial structure featuring a sapphire crystal upper dial with drilled indices and German sliver lover dial with hour tracks.
The manual winding tourbillon movement beats inside the timepiece has 18 jewels and offers power reserve up to 110 hours when fully wound. Crafted in German silver, the main plate and bridges of the movement are decorated with hand engravings. These breath taking decorations can be admired through the sapphire crystal case back. This exceptional mechanical movement incorporates wolf teeth gearing system which was popular in 19th century watch making.
The McGonigle Tourbillon comes fitted with a hand-stitched alligator leather strap featuring a hand engraved deployant buckle in red or white gold depending upon the model.
Technical details Case
White or rose gold
Oval shape
Diameter: 43/42mm
Water resistance: 30 meters
Dial
Upper dial: sapphire crystal with drilled indices
Lower hour track dial: German silver
Hand polished steel hands with beveled and grained gold arrow heads
Movement
Hand winding mechanical 60 seconds tourbillon
Power reserve: 110 hours
Balance: free sprung balanced spring
Frequency: 21,600 bph
Escape wheel: gold
Main plate and bridges: Hand engraved German silver
No of parts: 143
No of jewels: 18
Strap
Hand- stitched alligator
Hand engraved gold deployant buckle
With this unique wristwatch presented in 2007 by Gabor Kanabé, from Zurich, a master watch maker in his middle ages has reinvented the way time is displayed. “8-Dance” is the name of his grand watch with strong character and spirit.
Gabor Kanabé has always enjoyed letting his creativity flow. Creative work is a must in his original profession: As a dental technician he knows that solutions to difficult problems do not always come easy. This background also shaped his profound knowledge of materials, the processing of precious metals, forming the shapes.
Mr Kanabé has been creating jewellery for a long time whenever his busy schedule would allow him the time. It was during a break, what he calls his “muse moments”, when he had the vision of “his” watch. A watch that shows time as a constantly changing image.
The result is named “8-Dance”, an unconventional and patented design that took years of development and fine-tuning. The centrepieces of the display are the unique “Kanabé-hands.”
The hour- and minute-hands are placed eccentrically on a circular element. The two elements meet in the shape of the number 8, hence the name “8-Dance”, a dancing 8. It is almost impossible to describe this system, you have to see it in action to comprehend the unorthodox and clever approach.
The whole mechanism is driven by an automatic selfwinding movement of the ETA-type 2892, refined according to Kanabé’s ideas, a very reliable and proved motor. The casing of these 23 watches (a very limited edition) is made from White Gold and fascinates with its finely balanced proportions and the lunette with its slightly staggered indexes.
Mr Kanabés revolutionary design ideas also show themselves in the dial: He uses an exceptionally dense and very special tropical wood called “Cocobolo” that he purchased from a master flute builder. Every piece has its own structure and thus becomes unique.
Designing and building his own watch proved to be a courageous step into the future for the family man Gabor Kanabé.
8-Dance – the dancing eight Gabor Kanabé, 46 years old from Zurich, has reinvented the way time is displayed. “8-Dance” is the name of his grand watch with strong character and spirit.
The centerpieces of the display are the unique “Kanabé-hands.” The hour- and minute-hands are placed excentrically on a circular element. The two elements meet in the shape of the number 8, hence the name “8-Dance”, a dancing 8.
The casing of these 23 watches (a very limited edition) is made from White Gold and fascinates with its finely balanced proportions and the lunette with its slightly staggered indexes.
Mr Kanabés revolutionary design ideas also show themselves in the dial: He uses an exceptionally dense and very special tropical wood called “Cocobolo” – every piece has its own structure and thus becomes unique.
Technical details
Model: Gabor Kanabé 8-Dance watch
Case
White gold case, diameter Ø 38 mm
Front and back sapphire crystal with anti-reflex coating
Water resistant: 3 atm
Movement
ETA 2892-A2, self-winding with 42 hours power reserve
28’800 A/h, 21 jewels
Movement refined with perlage,winding mass with special engraving
Dial/Hands
Patented Gabor Kanabé-Hands
Dial made of Cocobolo-Wood
Strap
Leather strap Louisiana-Alligator with rubber elements, double folding-buckle in steel
The Duomètre à Chronographe is the first watch to be equipped with the Dual-Wing concept developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre.
To make a chronograph watch as accurate as a chronometer was the challenge taken up in 2007 by the watchmakers at Jaeger-LeCoultre in developing the first Duomètre. Their secret weapon was the Dual-Wing concept. The Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre chose to equip the first model in the Duomètre collection with the chronograph function.
The first movement to use this new construction principle was Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 380, boasting the major asset of displaying the time with chronometer-worthy precision. In accordance with the Dual-Wing concept, the first going train is entirely dedicated to the time function (hours, minutes, seconds), while the second going train is exclusively devoted to the chronograph function and features a 1/6thsecond jumping seconds.
Each of these two mechanisms is powered by its own barrel ensuring a 50-hour power reserve (50 hours for the time, 50 hours for the chronograph). There are no transfers of energy between the two. To simplify use and for aesthetic reasons, a single crown serves to wind both barrels: turning the crown clockwise winds the time, and turning it counter-clockwise winds the chronograph.
This Calibre 380 makes the first Duomère the very first wrist chronograph watch to operate without a coupling-clutch to handle the stop/start time measurement functions. A single push-piece ensures perfect synchronisation of all five chronograph counters.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre à Chronographe provides an impressive sixth of a second precision. A counter positioned at 6 o’clock displays the jumping seconds, divided into six units and linked to the chronograph seconds hand. This indication eliminates the need for a chronograph coupling-clutch mechanism.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre à Chronographe Platinum
Minute read-off is facilitated by a clear, harmonious and functional graphic layout. A dedicated aperture provides a digital display of the minutes from 1 to 9.
The JLC Duomètre à Chronographe is available in Pink Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold, and Platinum versions.
Extreme care has been lavished on the decoration of Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 380. Two different styles of bridges, each linked to their respective function: those relating to conventional time measurement feature taut, straight lines; while those involved in chronograph timekeeping are distinguished by curving arabesque shapes.
Movement
Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 380
Hand-winding movement
Number of components: 390
Vibrations per hour: 21,600 vph
Power-reserve: 50 Hours
Jewels: 49
Barrel: 2
Height: 6.95 mm
Introduced in 1971, Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II is an extreme professional watch, and highly valued by mountaineers and speleologists, for its rugged durability and reliability in countless expeditions to every corner of the globe.
The first every Rolex Explorer II watch (reference 1655) features a 39mm diameter case in stainless steel and houses the self-winding caliber 1575 GMT. In 1985, this model was replaced with reference 16550, which features a 40mm stainless steel case and the self-winding caliber 3085.
Introduced in 1989, the reference 16570 houses the Caliber 3185 movement (the models produced from 1989 to 2006) or Caliber 3186 (the models produced since 2007).
Equipped with an additional, red 24-hour hand and a fixed 24-hour graduated bezel, the Explorer II allows simultaneous reading of the time in two time zones and makes it possible to distinguish night hours from day hours, a necessity for speleologists or polar explorers.
It is equipped with a 12-hour hand that can be set independently from the minute hand, thus allowing the wearer to set the watch for a new time zone while the minute hand continues to function, maintaining the exact time.
The Oyster Perpetual Explorer II has over time confirmed its qualities of robustness and reliability during numerous expeditions. The original Explorer model was the watch that, in 1953, accompanied Sir John Hunt, Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on their victorious ascent of Everest.
Self-winding, equipped with a Perpetual rotor and certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). It features a sapphire crystal with a Cyclops lens and a Twinlock winding crown protected by shoulders.
Rolex Caliber 3185 Vs 3186
Rolex Caliber 3185 is a self-winding movement featuring a second time zone function in addition to the hour, minute, seconds and date display. Belongs to Rolex 3100 caliber family and introduced in 1989 as the replacement of Caliber 3085, this movement features an independently adjustable GMT hand. This 31 jewel movement has a power reserve of approximately 50 hours.
Measuring 28.50mm diameter and 6.45mm thickness, Caliber 3185 has a beating frequency of 28,800 v.p.h. All the four hands are centrally placed and the date display is positioned at 3H. It also features functions such as Hacking Seconds, Hand-Winding Capability, Instant Date Change and Quick Date Correction. This movement is used with Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16570 watches produced from 1989 to 2006.
In 2005, Rolex introduced Caliber 3186 as the replacement of 3185. In this new movement, Rolex solved the issue of wobbling action of 24H hand existed in Cal. 3185. In the Caliber 3186, Rolex used a blue Parachrom hairspring where as the Cal.3185 features a Nivarox spring. Other technical features are same for both the calibers. The Caliber 3186 can be found in Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16570 models produced from 2007.
Technical details
Model: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II (reference 16570)
Movement
Calibre 3186, 31 jewels
Self-winding: Perpetual rotor
Power reserve: 48 hours
Date: Instantaneous change
Oscillator Frequency : 4 Hz (28,800 beats/hour), hairspring with a Breguet overcoil
Chronometer: COSC certification
Case
Diameter: 40 mm
Material: 904L steel
Case: Fixed 24-hour graduated bezel, shoulders to protect the crown
Waterproofness: 100 m (330 ft)
Winding crown: Twinlock
Crystal: Sapphire with Cyclops lens
Designed for commercial pilots and serious travellers, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II enables the wearer to read the time in two time zones simultaneously, thanks to its bidirectional rotatable 24-hour graduated bezel and 24-hour hand.
The independent 12-hour hand allows the hour hand to be set for a new time zone while the watch continues to function, maintaining the exact time. The rotatable bezel makes it possible to display the time in a third time zone.
Rolex GMT-Master II 116710LN: 904L steel case with black dial and black Cerachrom bezel insert
Introduced in 1983, the first generation Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II watch has an anodized aluminum bezel insert. In 2005, Rolex introduced the proprietary Cerachrom bezel insert. The new GMT-Master II watches will be fitted with a scratchproof Cerachrom bezel insert.
The GMT-Master II watch benefits from all the aesthetic and technical innovations developed and perfected by Rolex. It is equipped with a movement featuring a new Parachrom hairspring designed and developed by Rolex, which offers increased resistance to shocks and magnetic fields.
Rolex GMT-Master II 116718LN: 18 ct yellow gold case with black dial and black Cerachrom bezel insert.
Self-winding, equipped with a Perpetual rotor and certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). It features a sapphire crystal and a Cyclops lens with anti-reflective coating and a Triplock winding crown protected by shoulders.
It is equipped with an Oyster bracelet with an Oysterlock clasp and an Easylink comfort extension link.
Available in 18 ct yellow gold, Rolesor, or 904L steel, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II watch also exists in yellow or white gold gem-set versions.
Technical details
Model: Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II
Calibre: 3186
Self-winding: Perpetual rotor
Power reserve: 48 hours
Date: Instantaneous change
Oscillator Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 beats/hour), Parachrom hairspring with a Breguet overcoil
Chronometer: COSC certification
Diameter: 40 mm
Material: 904L steel; yellow Rolesor; 18 ct yellow or white gold
Case: Bidirectional rotatable 24-hour graduated bezel with Cerachrom, shoulders to protect the crown
Waterproofness: 100 m (330 ft)
Winding crown: Triplock
Crystal: Sapphire with Cyclops lens with anti-reflective coating
Bracelet: Oyster with Oysterlock clasp and Easylink comfort extension link
References
Rolex GMT-Master II 116710LN: 904L steel case with black dial and black Cerachrom bezel insert.
Rolex GMT-Master II 116713LN : 904L steel and 18 ct yellow gold case with black dial and black Cerachrom bezel insert.
Rolex GMT-Master II 116718LN: 18 ct yellow gold case with black dial and black Cerachrom bezel insert.
Introduced in 2007, the following GMT-Master II watches are made of 18K white gold and set with diamonds and sapphires. They feature gem-set bezels instead of Cerachrom bezel inserts.
116759 SA: 18K white gold case set with diamonds and blue sapphires, black dial, gem-set bezel.
116759 SARU: 18K white gold case set with diamonds, sapphires and rubies, black dial, gem-set bezel.
116759 SANR: 18K white gold case set with diamonds and black sapphires, black dial, gem-set bezel.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Milgauss is a new-generation watch designed to resist intense magnetic fields and is the proud heir of the original Milgauss born in the 1950s in the spirit of science.
The Oyster Perpetual Milgauss derives its name from the French word for «1000» and the term «gauss», the magnetic field unit. As the French name indicates, the Milgauss watch is resistant to a magnetic flux density of 1,000 gauss.
Introduced in 2007, the new generation Milgauss watch has the reference number 116400. It features a 40mm diameter case in in 904L steel and houses the COSC-certified self-winding Rolex Calibre 3131.
Working together, the movement and the magnetic shield allow the watch to achieve exceptional performance when subjected to intense magnetic fields. The movement benefits from various innovations that reinforce its resistance to magnetic interference.
This self-winding calibre is fitted with a PARACHROM® hairspring developed and manufactured by Rolex. The escapement is equipped with an escape wheel made from a new paramagnetic material.
The magnetic shield protects the movement. Manufactured in ferromagnetic alloys selected by Rolex, it consists of two components screwed to the inside of the famous Oyster case that ensures the waterproofness of the watch.
Self-winding, equipped with a Perpetual rotor and certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), the Oyster Perpetual Milgauss is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet).
Milgauss comes with a luminescent orange seconds hand in the shape of a lightning bolt. The Rolex Milgauss reference 116400-001 features a black dial and reference 116400-002 has a white dial.
To celebrate the 40th anniversary of the collection, Rolex also launched a Milgauss anniversary version (reference 116400 GV 001) featuring an intense black dial and a green sapphire crystal.
The watch is available in 904L steel on an Oyster bracelet with an Oysterclasp and an Easylink comfort extension link.
VOLNA Heritage is a collection of subaquatic sports watches featuring a powerful, sophisticated design asserting a mysterious and atypical legacy – that of Soviet submarine naval forces – and drawing upon a contemporary interpretation of the most sophisticated Swiss watchmaking technologies.
The Typhoon series, named after the Typhoon class (“Akula” in Russian) project 941 nuclear submarine missile launchers that inspired it, features a rugged architecture based on a 46.5 mm-diameter, 2.5 mm thick case, a voluminous left-hand crown, a dial aperture and water resistance to 300 metres.
Introducing chronograph functions, a gauge-type power-reserve display, and later a rotating bezel for the Siberia series, VOLNA consistently creates technical, restrained watches incorporating grade 5 titanium, a sure sign of the brand’s mastery of cutting-edge horological technology.
The Typhoon ballistic missile submarine is the most impressive of all such vessels, with a displacement of up to 48,000 tons and a length of some 170 meters (about 560 feet), the perfect example of a strategic weapons system. Designed to project raw power worldwide, its three pressure hulls give it exceptional resistance to extremes of pressure.
Typhoon Heritage SI “Security Indicator”, Black steel PVD case – microball finishing, Black galvanic dial – red markers and numbers with superluminova, Rubber strap with red stitching, Water-resistant to 300m – 1000ft
In the same spirit, Typhoon watches and indeed the entire Volna collection are water-resistant to a depth of 300 meters (about 985 feet). Since exceptional performance demands outstanding designs, the Typhoon’s round case is crafted exclusively in 316L steel or G5 titanium. Measuring 46.5 mm in diameter, it is a study in astute engineering and metallurgical expertise.
Combining straight lines with a variety of curves, sharp edges and acute angles, a Typhoon watchcase is a demanding challenge even for sophisticated machine tools and highly experienced operators. Original in both style and spirit, it includes two patented original features.
Heritage Typhoon Chronograph
The Typhoon’s double security crown construction provides effective shock protection and reinforces the case’s overall water-resistance. It features a “crown actuator” that fits over the actual crown, recessed in the caseband of the watch, which serves to carry out the various setting operations.
Large and unusual in appearance, the device adds originality and an immediately recognisable character to the watch’s visual signature. The Typhoon collection’s other exclusive device is the security indicator on its dial. After each setting operation involving the crown, the dial window switches from indicating the “open” position back to indicating “300 M”, confirming that the crown has been completely screwed back in, thus returning the watch to its rated water-resistance.
These devices contribute to the integrity and dependable operation of the watch’s Swiss selfwinding mechanical movement. Volna high-frequency (28,800 v.p.h.) movements are all chronometer-tested, and its hands and other parts are made specially for the brand.
Denominated Typhoon SI, for Security Indicator, Typhoon SBDI, for Security Big Date Indicator, and Typhoon SPRI for Security Power Reserve Indicator, these three Volna timepieces lead the brand’s 2007 market launch. Their production run of a few hundred each gives aficionados of exceptional wristwatches an opportunity to choose between various cases and dial combinations. In addition, on every Typhoon dial a metal edging frames each of the auxiliary displays. Their particular shape and position on the dial contribute to the ease of identification and distinctive personality of each model.
Typhoon straps match the case’s exceptional quality and personality. Made of natural rubber, they have attachments embedded in the material and a twin-pronged clasp in 316L stainless steel. Lastly, every Volna watchcase carries on its side an ID plate, also in 316L steel, laser-inscribed with the name of the collection, its distinguishing technical device and the serial number of the watch.
Introduced in 2007, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Royal Black features an original and bold design. The 18 ct white gold case is fitted with a bezel set with either black sapphires or baguette-cut diamonds, according to the model. The bezel edge and the covers between the lugs are also set with brilliants.
The unique strap, featuring a folding clasp, combines stingray leather and rubber with a scattering of diamonds that add a special touch of radiance.
The dial decoration, a subtle combination of black lacquer and precious stones, suggests natural textures. The blazes, the signature of the Royal Black, are made up of 262 brilliants. The extremely intricate gem-setting requires great dexterity and expertise. Diamond hour markers provide the finishing touch to this exceptional timepiece.
The Oyster Perpetual Datejust Royal Black is a veritable jewel that includes all the well known advantages of the Oyster.
Self-winding, equipped with a Perpetual rotor and certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), it is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet) and features a sapphire crystal and a Cyclops lens with anti-reflective coating.
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II regatta chronograph is the first watch to have a programmable countdown feature with a mechanical memory, which gives it the advantage of being able to be set according to the countdown time of each regatta. Intended for lovers of yachting as well as for experienced skippers, it is an indispensable tool at the starting line of regattas.
With the Yacht-Master II, it is possible to program a countdown of 0 to 10 minutes. During the starting sequences, it can be synchronised to the official countdown. This horological complication is heir to all of Rolex’s watchmaking know-how and benefits from the vertical integration carried out by the company over the last 10 years.
A unique interaction between the movement, the case and the bezel makes the Yacht-Master II a completely new creation, a new generation watch. The various functions of this new Oyster professional are designed to be executed easily using only one hand.
THE MOVEMENT
The Yacht-Master II is equipped with a new movement, the 4160 calibre, consisting of 360 components, entirely designed and manufactured by Rolex. The heart of the movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour.
Its blue PARACHROM® hairspring with a Breguet overcoil is up to 10 times more resistant to shocks and insensitive to magnetic fields. This Rolex innovation endows the watch with excellent chronometric performance certified by COSC (Contrôle officiel suisse des Chronomètres – Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute).
The countdown mechanism is constructed using a column wheel and a vertical clutch. The choice of this exclusive architecture is clearly characteristic of the Rolex new-generation chronograph movements. Rolex engineers and watchmakers achieved an impressive technical feat by developing a new mechanical programmable countdown function.
A mechanical memory system makes it possible for the wearer to program, in advance and permanently (unless it is intentionally modified) the countdown time for the start of a regatta. The watch can be used in regattas with various starting sequences. Fully automatic, equipped with a Perpetual rotor, the Yacht-Master II movement has a power reserve of 72 hours.
THE CASE
Crafted from a solid block of 18 ct yellow or white gold, the Yacht-Master II case has diameter of 42.6 mm. Equipped with a Triplock winding crown protected by shoulders, it has two pushers, one on either side of the winding crown. The start/stop pusher located at the two o’clock position starts and stops the countdown.
The reset pusher located at the four o’clock position has three functions: programming, synchronising and setting the countdown. The innovation involves the interaction between the case and the movement, thanks to the Ring Command bezel, which is used for programming the duration of the countdown. The Yacht-Master II is guaranteed waterproof to 100 metres.
THE RING COMMAND BEZEL
The Yacht-Master II is equipped with a Ring Command bezel designed and developed by Rolex. Rotatable 90°, this innovation allows access to the programming function of the countdown, then to the locking of this programming.
Although it is very complex from a watchmaking point of view, this interaction between the bezel and the movement makes the Yacht-Master II extremely easy to use.
The Ring Command bezel is available in two versions : With a blue ceramic disc having numerals engraved in yellow gold for the 18 ct yellow gold version or in one-piece platinum with raised numerals for the 18 ct white gold version.
THE DIAL
The hour and minute hands are fixed in the centre of the Yacht-Master II, while the seconds hand is at the six o’clock position. The countdown counter located between eight o’clock and four o’clock positions and the countdown seconds hand (red hand in the centre) show the time remaining before the start of the regatta. Particular attention was paid to its legibility so that it can be easily read at a glance.
THE BRACELET
The Yacht-Master II features an Oyster bracelet with an Oysterlock clasp and an Easylink comfort extension link.
FUNCTIONS
The functioning of the Yacht-Master II is very simple. With one hand, the user can rapidly programme the countdown. Likewise, he can start, stop, set or synchronise it, while it is in progress, to the official countdown with a simple press of a pusher.
1. TIMING THE START OF A REGATTA: Press the start/stop pusher to start the countdown. At the end of the countdown, the minute hand stops by itself at 0. The seconds hand continues to turn.
2. SYNCHRONISATION OF THE COUNTDOWN (IF NECESSARY): At the time of the official signal, sound or visual : Press the reset pusher briefly and firmly. The minute countdown hand repositions itself to the nearest minute, while the seconds countdown
hand returns to 0. When the reset pusher is released, the minute countdown hand and the seconds countdown hand are automatically activated.
3. STOPPING THE COUNTDOWN: Press the start/stop pusher.
4. SETTING THE COUNTDOWN: Make certain that the countdown is stopped. Press the reset pusher. The minute countdown hand returns to the minute programmed at the last setting and the seconds countdown hand returns to 0. The countdown is ready to be started.
5. PROGRAMMING THE COUNTDOWN: First, make certain that the countdown is stopped. Turn the bezel 90° counterclockwise. The inscription Yacht-Master II should be aligned with the winding crown. This locks the start/stop pusher.
Press the reset pusher. You will hear a click. The pusher remains depressed. Unscrew the winding crown to position 1, without pulling on the stem. (The same as for manual winding) Position the hand at the desired minute by turning the winding crown in the winding direction. The minute countdown hand moves from 0 to 10 minutes by increments of one minute. At 10 minutes, if the user continues to turn the crown, the hand returns to 0.
Return the bezel to its initial position by rotating it 90° clockwise. You will hear a click. This returns the reset pusher to its initial position and unlocks the start/stop pusher.
Push down and screw down the winding crown. The countdown is ready to be activated according to the time programmed.
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The dial decoration, a subtle combination of black lacquer and precious stones, suggests natural textures. The blazes, the signature of the Royal Black, are made up of 262 brilliants. The extremely intricate gem-setting requires great dexterity and expertise. Diamond hour markers provide the finishing touch to this exceptional timepiece.
