Patek Philippe Ref.4896G, Calatrava Ultrathin Watch for Ladies

Introduced in 2006, this timepiece wrote a new chapter in prestigious watch manufacture as the first ultra-thin mechanical watch for ladies.

The Ref. 4896, which sparkles in diamond studded white gold case and impressive guilloché night blue dial, belongs to the Calatrava collection, acclaimed for the timeless elegance of its round cases that have expressed the inimitable Patek Philippe style for nearly three-quarters of a century.

While the shape and proportion of the case remain true to the 1930s Calatrava style, Patek Philippe has paid particular attention to the design of the all-new dial. First and foremost, this exclusive dial stands out with its unique night blue hue, which is accented by the brushed satin strap and 18K gold case and hands.

Patek Philippe Ref.4896G, Calatrava Ultrathin Watch for Ladies

The surface of the dial features a delicate guilloché pattern of concentric waves and is covered with several layers of blue lacquer, producing an incredible depth of color as the guilloché pattern shimmers through.

Overall, 12 separate lacquering, firing and polishing steps are needed to achieve this velvety, enigmatic dial. Like the rays of a star, the hour markers, coated with powdered silver, enliven the dial.

The faceted dauphine hands are polished and the satin-finished, rhodium-plated side of the case enhances the glow of the dial and the fire of the 72 diamonds on the bezel. With these attributes, the Ref.4896 possesses the radiance of a formal evening watch but retains its sleekness and discreet elegance.

The Calatrava Ref. 4896 watch beats to the rhythm of the manually wound Patek Philippe caliber 16-250 movement which is ultra-thin and extremely compact (2.5 mm thick with a diameter of 16.3 mm). It displays the prestigious Geneva Seal, a hallmark of true excellence.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Ladies’ Calatrava Ref. 4896 G

Movement
Caliber 16-250, Manually wound mechanical movement
Diameter: 16.30 mm, Height: 2.50 mm
Number of parts: 101
Number of jewels: 18
Power reserve: Max. 38 hours
Balance: Annular
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Flat
Stud: Movable

Functions
Two-position crown:
– Pulled out: to set time
– Pushed in: to wind watch
Displays: Hours, minutes
Hallmark: Geneva Seal

Case
18K white gold set with 72 diamonds
Solid 18K gold snap back
Water-resistant to 25 meters

Case dimensions
Diameter: 33 mm
Thickness: 6.35 mm
Width between lugs: 17 mm

Dial
Guilloché navy blue
12 arrow-type hour markers coated with powdered silver
Dauphine hour and minute hands with two lapped faces in 18K white gold, one face polished, one face sandblasted and rhodium plated

Precious stones
Bezel set with 72 flawless Top Wesselton diamonds, 1.2 mm brilliant-cut, totaling approx. 0.47 ct.

Strap
Brushed navy blue satin, with 16 mm prong buckle in 18K white gold

CORUM Bubble Royal Flush (2006)

Originally introduced in 2006, the CORUM Bubble Royal Flush is a special edition timepiece inspired from the poker game. Its signature domed sapphire crystal magnifies the luck of these winning cards spread out on the green table for all to see. To remind the player what the game is really about, the counter-balance of the sweep second-hand features a dollar sign.

The brushed stainless steel case is designed to minimize reflection and keep the identity of the cards safe. The CORUM Bubble Royal Flush timepiece is equipped with an automatic movement encased in a stainless steel or 18 karat red gold case with or without diamonds. The Bubble Royal Flush, the sixth model in the series of Special Edition Bubbles was produced only during the year of its introduction(2006).

CORUM Bubble Royal Flush (2006) watch

Technical details

Basic reference: 082.170.20 OF01
Movement: Automatic, CO – 082

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds

Case
Diameter 45 mm
Brushed stainless steel case
Screwed-down crown
Engraved case back with the reference number, individual serial number, collection name
Opened case back with a transparent window revealing the oscillating weight of the movement decorated with the four suits of cards with the CORUM logo key
Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal 11 mm thick at center, with double antireflective coating
Water-resistance: 20 atmospheres (660 feet / 200 meters)

Dial
– Green lacquered dial with five appliqué cards
– Red and black hour markers
– Skeleton hour and minute hands in stainless steel
– The Dollar sign on the second hand

Strap
Genuine crocodile leather stitched to composite material with a hypo allergenic calfskin leather underside
Buckle: Stainless steel push-button folding clasp

Diamonds (optional)
Steel: 120 full-cut diamonds, total 1.08 carat
Red gold: 48 full-cut diamonds, total 2.27carats
Red gold: 293 full-cut diamonds, total 5.64 carats (case and bezel)

Sinn 203 Diving Watch Anniversary Limited edition

This limited edition diving watch was launched in 2006 to celebrate the 45th anniversary of the company. The years 1961-2006 and the dial underscore the value of the diving watch. It is tastefully electroplated in a special charcoal grey colour – a complex but rewarding process, as it produces a deep, silky matte gleam and outstanding colour fastness.  The robust case is made of titanium. The appeal of this metal lies in its light weight and low thermal conductivity, which make it comfortable to wear.

Moreover, it is non-allergenic. It is also an extremely precise timepiece thanks to the Valjoux 7750 movement with automatic winding. Functional robustness und reliability are indispensable for underwater sports or professional activities and are crucial to health and life. The 203 anniversary diving watch comes in a case with a brown Russian leather strap, strap changing tool, spring bars and an operating manual.

Sinn 203 Diving Watch Anniversary Limited edition

Technical details
Edition
Limited edition to 450 units

Movement
Valjoux 7750 Self-winding mechanism
25 bearing jewels
28,800 semi-oscillations per hour
Seconds stop function
Shock resistant as per DIN 8308 
Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309

Case
Case made of titanium, bead-blasted
Sapphire crystal glass in front, anti-reflective on the interior
Case back: screw-fastened
Crown: screw in
Push-pieces: screw in
Water-resistant as per DIN 8310
Pressure-resistant up to 30 bar (= 300 m water depth)
Low pressure resistant 

Functions
Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds
Date display
Day of the week display
Chronograph
Diver’s bezel with minute ratcheting and luminous key mark

SINN Technologies
Ar-Dehumidifying Technology enhances functional reliability and freedom from fogging

Dimensions and Weight
Case diameter: 41 mm
Band lug width: 20 mm 
Case thickness: 16 mm
Weight without strap: 68 gram

Dial and Hands
Matte charcoal grey electroplated dial
Indices coated with luminescent colour
Hour and minute hand coated with luminescent colour

Warranty
3 years

ROMAIN JEROME Master Tourbillon Limited Edition

The Master Tourbillon collection testifies to the superlative horological expertise of ROMAIN JEROME. It is based on a movement developed by masters of their art and aesthetically enhanced to correspond to the brand’s golf-themed identity.

The movement of the Master Tourbillon, distinguished by a level of fine craftsmanship that initiates will appreciate, may be admired from various angles. At 6 o’clock, the tourbillon carriage is attached to an exceptional and invisibly secured bridge. At 12 o’clock, the moon-crescent shaped opening reveals the wolf’s tooth ratchet-wheel and provides a bird’s eye view of the mainspring housed within an openworked drum. The time-setting mechanism appears on the case-back.

ROMAIN JEROME Master Tourbillon Limited Edition

The quality of the finishing is heightened by the pleasure of seeing the movement in operation. In addition to the traditional decorative finishes (hand bevelling, polishing, circular graining and Côtes de Genève, the letters RJ are engraved on the mainplate. This hand-wound tourbillon, a refined version of a La Joux Perret calibre, beats at a cadence of 21,600 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve of more than 90 hours.

The Master Tourbillon dial features a complex split-level construction and comprises eleven parts in addition to the hour-markers. The opening at 12 o’clock, on which the club-style striped motifs echo those on the tourbillon bridge, enables one to appreciate certain specific features of the movement.

Around the rim, the sloping bezel ring is enhanced with applied tee-head shaped hour-markers. The stylised applied letters of the RJ logo under the brand name are in solid gold and the blued steel openworked hands are coated with white Superluminova C1.

ROMAIN JEROME Master Tourbillon Limited Edition

The complex case adopted by ROMAIN JEROME for its entire range of creations – thirteen parts assembled with no visible screws and featuring golf-style inserts on the lugs – clothes the Master Tourbillon in pink or white gold, with a bezel that is either polished or set with brilliant-cut and trapeze-cut diamonds.

The watch also has a dimpled golf-ball type crown as well as sapphire crystals with multilayered anti-reflective treatment on both sides. The case cover carries the engraving of the model number within the limited series.

Its modular nature means that individual parts may be modified or replaced as necessary, such as following an accidental impact, either by restoring them to their original state or by giving them a different finish. To ensure maximum precision and impeccably quality finishing, the casing ring is an integral part of the gold case-middle.

ROMAIN JEROME Master Tourbillon Limited Edition watch diamond set case

The mississipiensis alligator leather strap, cut from large square scales, is hand-sewn and comes in a choice of colours: brown, green, black or white.

Fashioned from solid gold matching the colour of the case, the double folding clasp with safety push-piece shaped like a golf club ensures perfect fit and comfort during all sports activities.

Technical details

Movement
Calibre: Hand-wound, La Joux Perret movement, Personalised Tourbillon with invisible bridge fastening
Movement thickness : 5.40 mm
Movement diameter: 30.60 mm
Jewelling: 18 jewels
Power reserve: > 90 hours
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour
Additional plate: Exclusive Gold Master Time, 49 hand-finished components

Case
18-carat pink or white gold (total gold weight 97 g in white gold)
Diameter: 42.9 mm
13 parts assembled without any visible screws
Bezel: 18-carat pink or white gold
Sapphire crystals with multilayer anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back engraved with limited series number
Water resistance: 50 metres
Versions: set with brilliant-cut or trapeze-cut diamonds (Top quality pure Wesselton)

Dial
11 parts, in addition to hour-markers
Applied hour-markers
Applied 18-carat gold RJ logo
Steel hands: Blued steel hands, tips coated with white Superluminova C1

Strap
Hand-sewn mississipiensis alligator leather in brown, green, black or white
Buckle: 18-carat gold double folding clasp, safety push-piece (weight 32 g in white gold version)

Edition
50 in each gold colour

Roger W. Smith Series 2 Wristwatch Collection

The Series 2 wristwatch by Roger W. Smith is not only the first high grade production wristwatch ever to have been entirely designed and made in Britain, it is also the only production watch in the world to be crafted by hand with such meticulous attention to detail.
Roger W. Smith Series 2 Wristwatch CollectionIt was while studying at the Manchester School of Horology that Roger W. Smith first met George Daniels, a watchmaker widely regarded as the greatest living horologist. George was driven by two challenges: to improve the technical performance of the mechanical watch and to create his own English watches. Aged 20 and inspired by his lecture Roger W. Smith spent the next seven years perfecting the 30 or so different disciplines involved in creating a truly handmade pocket watch.

An invitation followed to work with George Daniels in the Isle of Man on now legendary ‘Daniels Millennium’ series of 50 watches. The experience was priceless – the finest finishing school any aspiring watchmaker could wish for. After this Roger W. Smith founded his own workshop on the Isle of Man. Smith’s goal was to bring the superlative quality of traditional English pocket watches to the modern wristwatch, reviving the fine hand craftsmanship lost in our age of mass production.

His first challenge was the Series 1 – a rectangular wristwatch made in a series of just nine, all of which were bought by watch connoisseurs. But he wanted to go further; to design and create an entirely hand-made production British watch that would re-set all the standards. And so it was that in February 2006 he celebrated the launch of the wristwatch that embodies the creativity, precision and passion for quality of the Roger Smith workshop: the Series 2.
Roger W. Smith Series 2 Wristwatch CollectionThis extraordinary wristwatch features George Daniels’ legacy to horology – the co-axial escapement.  As the part that releases the power of the mainspring through to the balance wheel, the escapement is the heart of the mechanical timepiece. The George Daniels co-axial escapement is the most technically advanced in 250 years, representing a huge step forward in quality and durability. In fact, any well made watch featuring this escapement should, if properly maintained, last for ever.
Roger W. Smith Series 2 Wristwatch CollectionAlmost every one of the watch’s 225 parts is painstakingly hand crafted in brand’s own workshop. The company makes its cases, dials and hands and specialize in making its own movements, escapements and balances – extremely rare in a world where all but a handful of the millions of watches sold every year are mass produced. It’s no surprise then that the Roger Smith workshop makes only 10 of these connoisseur timepieces each year. With its solid silver dial, solid gold hands, jewels set in gold chatons and a host of other hand worked features, the Series 2 is not only an object of beauty, it is a testament to the unique vision and skills of the company’s specialist team.
Roger W. Smith Series 2 Wristwatch CollectionThe brand’s initial Series 2 release is made up of three editions; each edition comprising 30 watches. You can also commission your own Series 2, choosing your preferred combination of materials and features. For example, the dials are made up of seven different pieces in which gold and silver can be combined to dramatic effect – especially when teamed with a hand engraved background to create a unique dial. Commissioned pieces also give you the option of a platinum case.

Edition 1

  • Case: 18 carat yellow gold case (diameter 38mm) and crown; Sapphire crystals to front and rear; Hand engraved lettering and numbering; Hallmarked in London
  • Movement: Individually numbered; Signed – Roger W. Smith,Isle of Man – Edition 1; Free sprung quadradjust balance; Co-axial escapement; 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5Hz); Raised barrel bridge; English finished gilded and frosted plates; Gold chatons and cocks; 28 jewels; Hand engraved lettering and numbers
  • Dial and hands: Silver engine turned dial; Silver minute, hour, seconds and up and down chapters; 18 carat yellow gold minute, hour, seconds and up and down hands; Hand engraved lettering and numbers
  • Strap and buckle: Supplied with one black and one tan alligator strap; Fitted with 18 carat yellow gold buckle; Hand engraved – R. W. Smith
  • Presentation box: Specially commissioned and executed wooden, inlaid box using English oak with walnut stringing, burr oak and nickel fittings. Made by bespoke furniture maker David Linley, London.
  • Pricing: Net £42,000/VAT @15% £6,300/Inc VAT £48,300

Edition 2

  • Case: 18 carat red gold case (diameter 38mm) and crown; Sapphire crystals to front and rear; Hand engraved lettering and numbering; Hallmarked in London
  • Movement: Individually numbered; Signed – Roger W. Smith,Isle of Man – Edition 2; Free sprung quadradjust balance; Co-axial escapement; 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5Hz); Raised barrel bridge; English finished gilded and frosted plates; Gold chatons and cocks; 28 jewels; Hand engraved lettering and numbers
  • Dial and hands: Silver engine turned dial; Silver minute, hour, seconds and up and down chapters; 18 carat red gold minute, hour,seconds and up and down hands; Hand engraved lettering and numbers
  • Strap and buckle: Supplied with one black and one tan alligator strap; Fitted with 18 carat red gold buckle;Hand engraved – R. W. Smith
  • Presentation box: Specially commissioned and executed wooden, inlaid box using English oak with walnut stringing, burr oak and nickel fittings. Made by bespoke furniture maker David Linley, London.
  • Pricing: Net £43,400/VAT @15% £6,510/Inc VAT £49,910

Edition 3

  • Case: 18 carat white gold case (diameter 38mm) and crown; Sapphire crystals to front and rear; Hand engraved lettering and numbering; Hallmarked in London
  • Movement: Individually numbered; Signed – Roger W. Smith,Isle of Man – Edition 3; Free sprung quadradjust balance; Co-axial escapement; 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5Hz); Raised barrel bridge; English finished gilded and frosted plates; Gold chatons and cocks; 28 jewels; Hand engraved lettering and numbers
  • Dial and hands: Silver engine turned dial; Silver minute, hour, seconds and up and down chapters; Blued steel minute, hour, seconds and up and down hands; Hand engraved lettering and numbers
  • Strap and buckle: Supplied with one black and one tan alligator strap; Fitted with 18 carat white gold buckle; Hand engraved – R. W. Smith
  • Presentation box: Specially commissioned and executed wooden, inlaid box using English oak with walnut stringing, burr oak and nickel fittings. Made by bespoke furniture maker David Linley, London
  • Pricing: Net £45,000/VAT @15% £6,750/Inc VAT £51,750

Commissions

  • Case: Choice of materials for case (diameter 38mm) and crown; Sapphire crystals to front and rear; Hand engraved lettering and numbering; Hallmarked in London
  • Movement: Individually numbered, Signed – Roger W. Smith, Isle of Man; Free sprung quadradjust balance; Co-axial escapement; 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5Hz); Raised barrel bridge; English finished gilded and frosted plates; Gold chatons and cocks; 28 jewels; Hand engraved lettering and numbers
  • Dial and hands: Choice of materials used to create dial; Choice of engine turned or hand engraved dial background; Choice of materials for minute, hour, seconds and up and down chapters; Choice of materials for minute, hour, seconds and up and down hands; Hand engraved lettering and numbers
  • Strap and buckle: Supplied with one black and one tan alligator strap; Fitted with buckle to match case material; Hand engraved – R. W. Smith
  • Presentation box: Specially commissioned and executed wooden, inlaid box using English oak with walnut stringing, burr oak and nickel fittings. Made by bespoke furniture maker David Linley, London.

Chronoswiss “Grand Régulateur”

The “Grand Régulateur” has been there before at Chronoswiss. In 1994, the brand launched the limited edition “Grand Régulateur” pocket watch, which, with the help of a second case and a bayonet connector, could also be worn on one’s wrist.

Since the hand-wound caliber C.1722 R made by the movement manufacturer Minerva was only available in limited numbers, the previous edition “Grand Régulateur” had to be strictly limited to 300 pieces.

Things are a little different for the “Grand Régulateur” 2006: It should also be linked to the hand-wound tradition, which, for Chronoswiss, began with the long sold-out ancestral Régulateur of 1987.

Since Gerd-Rüdiger Lang represents the clear concept of selling aesthetic watches and not just hot air, there are limitations to the growth using the automatic caliber C. 122.

Chronoswiss Grand Régulateur watch

An increased diameter would fill the corresponding case in addition to the movement with lots of vital gas. Additionally, the aesthetics of the dial would suffer tremendously since the hour- and second-scale would move far into the center.

The case of the “Grand Régulateur” in the typical Chronoswiss style measures 44 millimeters. When one turns the paned back to the front, one discovers the 16 1/2 -lined hand-wound movement C.673 with a diameter of about 36.6 millimeters.

The base movement is ETA 6498-1. In order to be able to and to be entitled to animate the “Grand Régulateur”, the established hand-wound movement has to endure quite a bit. It starts with the move of the hour-wheel from the center towards the “12”, is continued by supplementing a balance-wheel-mechanism as well as by assembling an elegant swan-neck adjustment and is completed by a painstaking finishing.

Technical details

Model: Chronoswiss “Grand Régulateur”

References
CH 6720: Platinum, limited to 99 pieces
CH 6721W: White gold
CH 6721 R: Rose gold 5N
CH 6721: Gold 2N
CH 6723: Steel

Display
Hour, minute, second

Case
Massive 20-part case, 44 mm, height: 13.45 mm, massive turnip-crown part of the case, brushed and polished, screw-on bezel with one-sided non-reflective sapphire crystal, screw-on case back with full-thread and one-sided non-reflective sapphire-crystal, screw-on lugs with patented system Autobloc, water-resistant up to 3 atm (30 m)

Movement
Chronoswiss Caliber C.673 (based on an ETA 6498-1), hand-wound, ø 36.6 mm, height 4.7 mm, (161/2”’), 17 jewels, Incabloc shock absorber, ca. 40-hour power reserve, swan’s neck precision regulator, 3 Hz., 21,600 A/h (semi-oscillations), three-spoke Glycydur screw balance with stop-seconds function, Nivarox-1 flat balance-spring; high-gloss polished lever, escape-wheel and screws; circular graining on the gears, base plate with cloud-pattern engraving, with Geneva waves on the gear-train’s bridges and the balance-cock; handcrafted barrel-bridge and cock for the fourth-wheel, third-wheel and escape-wheel; gold-plated rims around the jewels, high-gloss-polished steel screws and click, sun-pattern engraving on the transmission-wheel and ratchet-wheel, individually numbered, CASP seal

Dial
Massive 925-Sterling Silver dial, guilloché-finish, “clou de paris” and “damier”, blue-varnished steel hands, shape “Poire Losange”

Strap
Louisiana-crocodile strap, also available with folding clasp or metal bracelet. Strap width at the case: 22 mm/ at the buckle: 18 mm

Anderesen Geneve Grande Jour et Nuit, Edition 2006

The «Grande Jour et Nuit» is a watch – as its French name suggests – indicating at once the day and night hours. The renewal of this model introduced in April 2000 allows to satisfy a growing demand for exceptional watches which incorporate at the same time Genevese horological technologies, an innovative design and a new way of reading time.

Anderesen Geneve Grande Jour et Nuit, Edition 2006

In the 2006 edition of Grande Jour et Nuit, various technical and aesthetic choices facilitate the unique reading of the daytime hours (0600 to 1800) and night-time hours (1800 to 0600); the hour hand points to the day with its longer end and the night with its short end. It jumps to the following hour when the minute hand has performed a full tour of the dial.

On the blue gold dial with «tapisserie» pattern, are printed very readable the day hours (6 – 18) and night hours (18 – 6) as well as the small dial for the minutes. The big 24-hour-hand indicates with its long end the day, with ist short end the night. It jumps to the next hour when the small hand passes 60’’.

Anderesen Geneve Grande Jour et Nuit, Edition 2006 caseback view

Technical details

Model: Grande Jour et Nuit

Movement
Hand-wound, Piguet 15″
Complication A 573

Functions
Hours, minutes

Case
750 (18K) red or white gold
44 m in diameter, 7.5 mm thick
Sapphire crystal and back

Dial
22K blue gold, tapisserie base
Transferred Arabic numerals
Minute dial at 6 o’clock

Strap
Hand-sewn crocodile leather, pin buckle

Links

Quinting Quardinal

The Quardinal is the third line of the watches Quinting. Launched in 2006, it is the fusion between the Chronograph and the Transparency. Its design reminds one of the Chronographs, which is characterised by its robust case but the wide transparency of the dial reminds one of the line Transparency.

Available in gold, platinum or stainless steel, the Quardinal can also be set with diamonds and the colours of the dial and the bracelet can be proposed in 6 different versions (black, white, red, blue, chocolate and steel). This model is composed of 137 pieces and its movement contains 9 sapphires, 4 are mobile others are stationary.

Quinting Quardinal

The watch is composed of metalized sapphires and has an anti-reflection treatment. The case back and the movement are engraved with an individual serial number. The unique transparent movement is patented.

Technical details

Case
Total height: 14,00 mm
Total diameter: 43,80 mm
Water resist: 50 meters (5 ATM)

Movement
Diameter: 39,00 mm
Total height: 8,60 mm
Number of sapphire layers: 9 perfectly parallel sapphire discs
Warranty: 2 years
Adjustment: +0.10 – 0.60 sec/j.

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Date with indication am – pm
Seconds at 6 o’clock

Available with:
Alligator strap with Quinting buckle
Stainless steel, yellow gold, pink gold or white gold
Precious metal bracelet (stainless steel, yellow gold, pink gold, white gold)
Dial with or without diamond setting
Bezel with or without diamond settings

Ulysse Nardin Anniversary 160 Limited Edition

Introduced in 2006, the Ulysse Nardin Anniversary 160 Limited Edition is equipped with C160, a self-winding caliber with big date in a double window with a quick set corrector in either direction, a small second on the second wheel and a fifty-hour power reserve.

In 2006, on the year of the Manufacture’s 160th anniversary, Ulysse Nardin introduced its first totally in-house conceived and executed self-winding base caliber C160. The Caliber 160 features a small seconds indicator similar to that used in the Marine Chronometers which initially garnered the Manufacture its repute. Yet this indicator also expresses the Manufacture’s focus on functional movement design.

In this movement, the small seconds indicator is ‘direct drive’. This translates into zero loss of precision for this indication. In addition, the Caliber 160 is a hack seconds movement, meaning that the balance wheel is stopped when the crown of the watch is pulled out to set the hands. This allows the hands to be set precisely without having to compensate for a continually-running seconds hand.

The Dual Ulysse escapement that was introduced in the Freak 28’800 V/h occupies the nerve center of the Caliber 160 and provides it with a critical advantage over all other watch calibers: this micro mechanical marvel requires no lubrication and all but eliminates the sliding friction that is the downfall of the traditional Swiss lever escapement. The Dual Ulysse Escapement has 2 wheels, allowing natural force transmission: the force and the move have the same direction, alternatively clockwise with the first wheel and counter-clockwise with the second.

The wheels have 18 active teeth, guaranteeing a good energy transmission to the oscillator. No lubrication is required – the transmission is made through a “gear like” mechanism. The impulse is given to an alternator which passes it further to the impulse pin. This alternator is a gear which turns alternatively in one direction and then the opposite direction.

The innovative principle of the Dual Ulysse Escapement permits a dramatic reduction of the lift angle from the usual 50-52 degrees (Swiss Anchor) down to approximately 30 degrees. The lift angle is the arc run by the balance between its first contact with the escapement and its last contact. The shorter the arc is, the lower is the disturbance of the natural oscillation of the balance.Ulysse Nardin Anniversary 160 Limited EditionOn the subject of materials, the Caliber 160 utilizes escape wheels made from nickel phosphorous. Because it has two escape wheels instead of one wheel (as in the Swiss lever escapement), the mass of these wheels must be radically reduced so that the power supply to the escapement does not have to increase. To accomplish this, Ulysse Nardin turned to LIGA technology, a special technique involving photolithography and electro-plating to literally build these escape wheels from nickel phosphorous from the etchings created during lithography.

This results in wheels that have incredibly intricate profiles including hollow teeth. By designing the wheels this way, one can create extremely light components even from a material like nickel that is not innately light. While nickel phosphorous is heavy at nine grams per cubic centimeter (as opposed to steel’s 7.8 grams per cubic centimeter), the radical skeletonization process allowed by LIGA technology makes the Caliber 160’s escape wheels virtually weightless.

As a testimony to the Manufacture’s deep belief in the efficiency and precision of its new movement, every Caliber 160 is COSC tested and certified.

Despite having a built-in anti-shock device, the balance wheel of the movement is fixed to a full bridge that is anchored on both sides in the Caliber 160. Using this design rather than that of a balance cock provides even greater security and stability to this fine regulating organism even when the watch receives a major shock.

On the subject of the regulating organ, when you pull out the crown and the hack seconds feature stops it in mid flight, you can see that the Caliber 160’s balance wheel which is built completely in-house by Ulysse Nardin. It is adjusted for accuracy using four inertia screws that are recessed into its rim so as not to create aerodynamic turbulence once the balance is at its running speed of 28,800 vibrations per hour or 4 Hertz. It is important to note that save for the hairspring all the other parts of the balance are also made by Ulysse Nardin.

The vital statistics of the groundbreaking Caliber 160 are appealing. The caliber boasts a mighty 50-hour power reserve which will be contained inside a single barrel. In the same way that it has done away with lubrication for its escape wheels, the Manufacture has also banished lubrication for the rotor assembly by utilizing ceramic ball bearings for the bearing race.Ulysse Nardin Anniversary 160 Limited EditionThe Caliber 160 is a fitting milestone for Ulysse Nardin’s Anniversary 160. Its focus on innovation and function combined with creativity has come to represent what Ulysse Nardin is about. The Anniversary 160 edition was launched in 2006 in two series of 500 watches.

Technical details

Model: Ulysse Nardin Anniversary 160 Limited Edition
Ref 1600-100: 18 ct white gold
Ref 1602-100:18 ct red gold
Edition: Limited Edition of 500 pieces in Red Gold and 500 pieces in White Gold
Launched in : 2006

Caliber :UN-160
Type: Mechanical self-winding movement
Diameter of movement: 30.20 mm
Height of movement: 4.80 mm
Frequency: 28’800 V/h (4Hz)
Number of jewels: 52 jewels
Power-Reserve: approx. 50 h
Oscillator: In-house designed and manufactured balance wheel fitted with 4 18ct screws for frequency adjustments.
Display:  Hour and minute hand in the center, small second at 6 o’clock and 2-digit Big Date display at 2 o’clock.

Hamilton Khaki Frogman Auto Chrono

Introduced in 2006, the design detail in the Khaki Frogman Auto Chronowatch from the Khaki Navy series is focused on merging style and functionality, without diluting either. The Swiss automatic movement is specially positioned at an inclined angle and two easily activated pushers are cleverly integrated into one hole.

Distinctively shaped crown protectors ensure that the water resistance of the watch does not come under pressure. There is also a sturdy cross protection at the rear of the watch’s case with a look inspired by vintage diving suits.

Hamilton Khaki Frogman Auto Chrono, 2006

The Khaki Frogman Auto Chrono is made of titanium, which is 30% stronger and 50% lighter than steel, and has particularly high resistance to corrosion, especially from salt water. The sand blasted effect produces a high-tech look.

Keeping the watch in place on the wrists of divers and those who prefer to stay on dry land are straps in rubber or fast-drying canvas, or a matching metal bracelet. And for individuals wishing to tone down the adventurous statement, while keeping the watch’s essential character, there is a slimmer version of the timepiece with a brushed case and polished bezel. This watch does not have magnifying ‘eyes’ or cross protection – it is also available with a fine leather strap.

Hamilton Khaki Frogman Auto Chrono, 2006

The “Frogman” watches in the Hamilton Khaki collection celebrate a long diving tradition, on and off screen. During World War II, US naval “frogmen” were the heroic individuals who prepared safe landings for supplies and troops on hostile shores.

They used special Hamilton diving watches in their work and in 1951 stars of the Oscar-nominated movie “The Frogmen” that featured these men wore the proven timepieces. This role also kicked-off the beginning of the long-standing relationship between Hamilton and Hollywood.

Technical details

Model: Hamilton Khaki Frogman Auto Chrono

Movement
ETA 7750 Valjoux self-winding chronograph movement

Functions
Hours, minutes, chronograph functions (12-hour and 30-minute counters),centre 60-seconds hand, date

Case
Sandblasted grade 5 titanium
Protection systems for the crown (at 2 o’clock) and chronographpush-button (at 4 o’clock)
Domed sapphire crystal
Case featuring a cross-shaped reinforcement
Water-resistant to 200 m

Dial
Black or silvered
Titanium rings with magnified date display and minute counter

Bracelet/Strap
Canvas, rubber or grade 5 titanium

Other versions
Brushed/polished titanium with canvas, rubber or leather strap or titanium bracelet

Maurice Lacroix Le Chronographe Limited Edition in 18K Rose Gold

Introduced in 2006, Maurice Lacroix Le Chronographe 18K Rose Gold model is driven by an in-house mechanical movement.

Maurice Lacroix Le Chronographe Limited Edition in 18K Rose Gold

The exclusive manufacture movement ML 106 was conceived and developed entirely by Maurice Lacroix. The hand-wound mechanical chronograph caliber combines traditional elements such as the classic column wheel with an innovative, patent-pending lever mechanism for stopping and zeroing.

Maurice Lacroix Le Chronographe Limited Edition in 18K Rose Gold

The 18K Rose Gold case measures 45 mm diameter. Made of Solid silver 925, the silver colored dial of this watch features a chronograph 60 minute counter at 3 o’clock and a small seconds counter at 9 o’clock.

Maurice Lacroix Le Chronographe Limited Edition in 18K Rose Gold

The Rose Gold Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Le Chronographe is limited to 250 pieces.

Technical details

Model: Maurice Lacroix Le Chronographe Limited Edition
Reference MP7008-PG101-120

Movement
Manufacture movement Maurice Lacroix, hand-decorated, hand-wound mechanical caliber ML 106, 20 jewels, blued steel screws, 2 18K 750 gold chatons, column wheel, swan-neck fine adjustment, KIF shock protection, lever and escapement wheel made of polished steel, Glucydur screw balance, 18,000 A /H.

Functions
Hour and minutes
Chronograph centre seconds
Chronograph with 60-minute counter
Small seconds

Case
Rose gold 18K 750
Diameter: 45 mm
Domed sapphire glass anti-reflective on one side on the dial side
Screwed case back with sapphire glass
Water resistant to 30 m (3 atm)

Dial
Solid silver 925; silver colored; Applied Arabic numerals and indexes, center decorated with Côtes de Genève «Rayon de la Gloire», polished and blued steel hands, hours/minutes luminous at night.

Strap
Genuine, hand-stitched crocodile leather with push-button clasp made of 18K 750 rose gold

Edition
Limited to 250 pieces, numbered, with certificate

Daniel Roth Quantième Perpétuel Instantané (Instant Perpetual Calendar) in Platinum

This Instant Perpetual Calendar in Platinum was introduced in 2006 by master watch maker Daniel Roth. This remarkable timepiece, a precious re-edition of the Daniel Roth Instant Perpetual Calendar model presented in 2003, reveals the intricacies of the brand’s considerable know-how. Thanks to technical developments, the calendar functions are user-friendly, accurate and highly legible.

Daniel Roth Quantième Perpétuel Instantané (Instant Perpetual Calendar) in Platinum

Equipped with Calibre DR 114, a 27 jewels self winding movement, this high complication wrist watch indicates day, month, date, leap years functions (Day display at 9 o’clock, month at 3 o’clock, date and leap year at 6 o’clock). The particularly attractive skeleton dial, with its elegant and beautifully arranged counters, testifies the aesthetic refinement inherent to Daniel Roth watches. The movement features Guilloché gold and platinum oscillating weight, Hand bevelling and Côtes de Genève motif.

Daniel Roth Quantième Perpétuel Instantané (Instant Perpetual Calendar) in Platinum Calibre DR 114 self winding movement

Technical details

Movement
Self-winding, Instant Perpetual Calendar, Calibre DR 114, 27 jewels
28,800 vph, 45-hour power reserve
Guilloché gold and platinum oscillating weight
Hand bevelling, Côtes de Genève motif

Functions
Hours, minutes, day, month, date, leap years

Case
950 platinum
Bezel set with 168 TW VS to VVS diamonds (0.84 ct)
Sapphire crystal, glare-proofed both sides
Glare-proofed sapphire back

Dial
750 (18K) skeleton galvanic-treated two-tone dial (bluish and silvered)
Day display at 9 o’clock, month at 3 o’clock, date and leap year at 6 o’clock
Blued steel hands

Strap
Black, cognac or blue hand-sewn alligator leather, pin buckle

Other versions
750 (18K) pink or white case
Non gem-set versions

Omega Speedmaster Limited Edition Professional Moon Watch Apollo 15 – Special Edition Celebrating 35th Anniversary of the Apollo 15 Space Mission

Launched in 2006 to commemorate the 35th anniversary of the Apollo 15 space mission, the limited edition Speedmaster Apollo 15 combines features of the original Moon Watch ─ the first and only watch worn on the moon ─ with new features. This limited edition consists of 1,971 watches, in honour of the year of the mission.

This special edition timepiece is equipped with Omega1861 chronograph manual-winding movement, which has a power reserve of 48 hours. The dial is black with red-gold hour markers and SuperLuminova luminous dots. The red-gold hands are also SuperLuminova-coated.

The Speedmaster Professional Moon Watch Apollo 15 has three recessed, two-tone counters: the 12-hour counter at    six o’clock, the 30-minute counter at three o’clock and the small seconds counter at nine o’clock. All have stylish red-gold surrounds that match other features of the watch. The 18-carat red-gold bezel has a black aluminium ring with a tachymetric scale.

Omega Speedmaster Limited Edition Professional Moon Watch Apollo 15 - Special Edition Celebrating 35th Anniversary of the Apollo 15 Space Mission

The 42 mm diameter case is of polished and brushed stainless steel with 18-carat red gold push buttons and crown. The sapphire crystal case back is etched with the special Apollo 15 patch, featuring three stylized birds representing the three astronauts of the Apollo 15 mission – Commander David R. Scott, Alfred M. Worden and James B. Irwin.

The case back is engraved with the words “Apollo 15” and “35th anniversary”, as well as the number of the limited edition and the Omega logo in black. The Speedmaster Professional Apollo 15 is water-resistant to a depth of 50 meters (167 feet).

The sold-link bracelet with the special Omega safety clasp is made of brushed and polished stainless steel. The Speedmaster Professional Moon Watch Apollo 15 is supplied in an elegant, matt silver wooden gift box lined in black. The box features the special Apollo 15 patch and the Omega logo in silver.

BLANCPAIN – Le Brassus, “8 Jours” (8 Days) Platinum

Introduced in 2006, this exceptional mechanical watch in platinum case houses a hand-wound movement that delivers power reserve up to 8 days.

Equipped with a titanium balance with an adjusting screw system, a Breguet overcoil balance-spring and three barrels ensuring an 8-day power reserve, Calibre 13R0 represents the fruit of an assiduous quest for simplicity, precision and performance. Adorned with extremely refined finishing details, it embodies a perfect blend of avant-garde technology and respect for tradition.

BLANCPAIN - Le Brassus, “8 Jours” (8 Days) Platinum watch 8 days power reserve

The quest for essentials and the refusal of anything superfluous was also the guiding principle for Blancpain watchmakers in developing the new base Calibre 13R0. The simplest constructions are those that ensure maximum reliability, while also facilitating maintenance. However, in both watchmaking and literature, simplicity is often the culmination of lengthy research.

BLANCPAIN - Le Brassus, “8 Jours” (8 Days) Platinum watch calibre 13r0

Blancpain meticulously studied all components of mechanical movements in order to choose the most effective solutions. The result is an efficient, accurate and reliable “motor” that once again takes the art of watchmaking to new heights.

BLANCPAIN - Le Brassus, “8 Jours” (8 Days) Platinum

A Regulating Screw System for Enhanced Precision
Blancpain first focused on the sprung balance – the regulating organ of the watch – and on its adjustment system. Most mechanical movements are equipped with a mobile organ named an “index” that enables one to adjust the active length of the balance-spring, and thus the oscillating speed of the balance.

Some brands opt for a swan’s neck system with a more decorative appearance. Control of the rate is thus achieved by means of regulating screws placed on the balance rim or felly. Tightening the screws inwards reduces the active diameter of the balance, thereby increasing the speed of the oscillations – and vice versa.

This system features several advantages compared with most existing devices. It takes less space than an index or a swan’s neck. The balance maintains concentric oscillations, since no organ presses against one of its ends (which would inevitably modify its shape).

Nor is there any risk that a shock might modify the position of the index or the swan’s neck and thus be detrimental to the rate of the watch. Nonetheless, the supreme advantage is the precision and the effectiveness of the adjustment. There is no need to seek the correct adjustment empirically by small backward or forward pushes.

The regulating screw system enables one to anticipate changes in rate. On Calibre 13R0, a quarter-turn of the two diametrically opposite screws results in a modification of thirty seconds per day. Once the rate of the watch has been verified on a chronoscope, the watchmaker knows exactly by how many fractions of a turn he must tighten or loosen the screws. To facilitate this task, Blancpain has equipped the gold micrometric screws with square heads, which mean the watchmaker can more easily visualise the corrections he is performing.

A Larger Titanium Balance for Improved Rating Regularity
Due consideration was then given to the diameter of the balance. The goal was in particular to achieve the best possible ratio between mass and inertia, thanks to a larger-diameter balance, which accordingly reduces differences in rate between horizontal and vertical positions. In order to optimise rating regularity, Blancpain chose a titanium alloy.

While it is very hard to work with, this avant-garde material features several decisive advantages. It is far less sensitive to variations in temperature than glucydur, which is used in most modern balances. It is anti-magnetic and it is also distinguished by its amazing lightness.

The lighter a balance, the less energy is consumed by its to-and-fro motion; the less the force of gravity affects the regularity of its oscillations in its various positions; and the less influence is exercised on its tiny pivot measuring a mere 6.5/100th of a millimetre. Consequently, the balance-spring which serves to compensate for the expansion of the balance had to be adapted to the titanium balance.

A Breguet Overcoil Balance-Spring for Optimal Isochronism
A flat balance-spring on a single plane cannot develop in a perfectly concentric manner. To guarantee the sprung balance a maximum of isochronism (regular oscillations whatever the amplitude), Blancpain has opted for a so-called “Breguet” overcoil balance-spring with the outer coil raised and slightly tilted towards the centre on a plane running parallel to the spring; this astute device enables the balance-spring to maintain its round shape at all times (whether in contraction or expansion phases).

Producing a Breguet overcoil balance-spring calls for a great deal of extra work. In the absence of machines capable of producing a correct result, each extremely slim terminal curve must be patiently shaped by hand, an approach requiring considerable experience and incomparable dexterity. Nonetheless, this demanding choice contributes to giving the movement greater rating regularity, and hence improved accuracy.

Three Barrels For an Impressive 8-Day Power Reserve
In developing Calibre 13R0, the Blancpain watchmakers also strove to find the most effective solutions in terms of energy. The main goal was to give the movement optimal operating autonomy, while guaranteeing energy of the finest “quality” at all times.

The Calibre 13R0 (in its current hours / minutes / seconds / date version) has an exceptional 8-day power reserve (192 hours). To achieve this feat, Blancpain has equipped it with three series-coupled barrels. Watchmakers made sophisticated calculations to precisely define the size and torque required for each spring. The three springs wind up and wind down in turn, but the second takes over from the first before its strength diminishes, and the same goes for the third.

This system guarantees constant energy throughout the duration of the 8-day power reserve. The two springs closest to the winding spring are equipped with slipping springs, an added security feature that avoids any damage to the movement if the springs were to be over wound (by forcing the crown).

A “Bidirectional” Date for Optimal Security
Another technical improvement lies in the fact that the date change at midnight and the fast correction may be done in either direction. On most watches, it is impossible to move the hour and minutes back past midnight, since this might damage the date change mechanism.

BLANCPAIN - Le Brassus, “8 Jours” (8 Days) Platinum date mechanism

On the new Calibre 13R0, the finger piece driving the date disc simply slides backward over the teeth and thus runs no risk of being damaged itself or of impairing the disc.

BLANCPAIN - Le Brassus, “8 Jours” (8 Days) Platinum

Decorative Features Worthy of a Noble Tradition
While the construction of the new Calibre 13R0 aims for a maximum of simplicity and efficiency, its finishing details are distinguished by their extreme refinement and their high-end aesthetic appeal. The bridges, which are corrected in classic style, feature elegant cut-outs as well as bevelling that is more noticeable than usual; they are also adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif, a sure sign of a finely crafted movement.

All the steel parts are hand-bevelled and drawn out with file strokes. The plates are stippled, while the wheels circular-grained and bevelled. The ratchet and the transmission-wheel boss are decorated with a sunray pattern.

The gaze is immediately caught and held by the large jewels, delicately rimmed in gold. However, out of a concern for simplicity, Blancpain decided not to use seatings to house the jewels. The use of these intermediate parts was fully justified in an era when hole drilling and jewel production techniques were not sufficiently precise to ensure perfect assembly.

However, technical progress now makes it possible to drive the jewels directly into the bridges and plates to within infinitely small tolerances. To maintain the visual magic of the jewels sparkling amid the gold, Blancpain has revived the time-honoured “moulding” technique.

The recess around the hole destined to house the jewel is meticulously mirror-polished and then gilded; the double sinks add an original and exclusive touch. The movement design engineers have also devoted particular care to making space in the centre of the movement in order to provide a clear view of the large seconds wheel.

Time for Renewal
The new Calibre 13R0 was first and foremost conceived as a base movement intended to accommodate various complication modules. This perspective will oblige Blancpain to rework all the famous complication “plates” that have contributed to forging its reputation. This movement is also intended to evolve towards a self-winding version. Calibre 13R0 and its future developments should therefore herald a significant renewal in the Blancpain movement collections, representing a further step towards precision, reliability and performance.

BLANCPAIN - Le Brassus, “8 Jours” (8 Days) Platinum

Technical details

Ref. 4213-3442-55B
Model: Le BRASSUS, “8 Jours”
Date and seconds-hand, indication of the power-reserve, opaline dial, hand-winding.
Edition: limited to 260 pieces

Case
Platinum Case
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 12.09 mm
Between horns:  22 mm
Sapphire crystal case back
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement
Calibre 13R0
Total diameter:  13.5 lines (30.60 mm)
Thickness:  4.57 mm
Number of jewels:  30
Number of parts:  211
Frequency:  28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Balance:  titanium, with adjustable screws
Balance-spring:  Breguet overcoil
Power reserve:  8 days (192 hours)

IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Midsize Rose Gold Ref. IW451505 (2006)

Since 2006, the Ingenieur Midsize, the compact version of the large IWC classic in a case pared down to a diameter of just 34 mm, is  also available in rose gold.

The global launch of the new Ingenieur, the most famous classic watch from IWC Schaffhausen, in the spring of 2005, was akin to the arrival of a new starship in the galaxy of precision timepieces. Beautiful, rugged, consummate. Coasting in its shadow came the Ingenieur Midsize, with a 34 mm case to appeal to those enthusiasts of perfected micro-mechanics of both sexes who wish to impose a rather smaller burden on their wrist.

This is a watch of the highest utility value, which, with its automatic winding mechanism, date, centre seconds, sapphire glass coated on both sides and proven water resistance to a depth of 120 m, is the ideal companion in everyday life and for all sporting challenges.

IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Midsize Rose Gold Ref. IW451505 (2006)IWC Schaffhausen is known for its fine, invariably exceptional and particularly reliable watches. The Ingenieur Midsize has not only asserted its position in the IWC Ingenieur family from the outset, but has massively extended it: it has since established itself as one of the most attractive and desirable timepieces in this segment. That is why it is now also available in the seductive precious metal rose gold, which compliments its forms and proportions extremely well.

It also has a matching dark brown soft strap, made from the most resistant technical fibres that can be manufactured today. The colour contrast between the rose gold-plated hands and indices on the silvered dial ensures optimal readability – and combines elegance with the highest functionality.

IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Edition TOP GUN Ref. IW3799

The IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Edition TOP GUN bears the name of the US Navy Fighter Weapons School, the elite academy that trains the very best fighter pilots in the world.

tWith a case made of hightech ceramic. The operating elements and the back are in matt grey titanium. Its mechanical internal workings are of the finest quality. And it is TOP GUN. That is to say, just as above-average skills are demanded of the graduates of the United States Navy Fighter Weapons School, so IWC has drawn its inspiration from this elite academy for pilots and in the TOP GUN has created a pilot’s watch for the highest echelon of professionalism.

The Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Edition TOP GUN takes its place in the Classic line from IWC, which concentrates optically on the reduced simplicity of the on-board aircraft instrumentation. The aeronautical know-how of IWC goes back more than 70 years, to a time when ambitious aviation was in its infancy.

The Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Edition TOP GUN features a high-tech ceramic case combined with titanium. The watch bears the TOP GUN logo not only discreetly on the case flank, but also boldly on the back of the watch. For this mechanical watch with its distinctive technical functions and its uncompromising cockpit design – even down to the date indicator resembling an altimeter.
IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Edition TOP GUN Ref. IW3799The Double Chronograph in its 46 mm case is worn on a robust nylon strap. Standing out against the contrasting black and white of the dial and the hands are the small seconds hand and the rear counterweights of the two central seconds stop hands in signal red. The latter are in the form of fighter aircraft, as an additional small clue to the genealogy of this exceptional watch.

The two seconds stop hands, which lie one on top of the other in the rest position, nevertheless primarily draw attention to the particular horological speciality of the Double Chronograph with its rattrapante or split-seconds function: this permits the measurement accurately to the second not only of stop times, but also of any desired intermediate times within a given minute. This exquisite function, perfected by the engineers at IWC some years ago, is operated by the third chronograph button at “10 o’clock”.

It is used to stop the so-called fly-back hand separately, in order to record an intermediate time, while the central chronograph hand continues to run. A further actuation of the button brings the fly-back hand instantaneously into synchronization with the stop hand, whether it is at a standstill or in operation. The aggregate time recording by the totalizers on the black dial extends up to 12 hours.

TOP GUN, in relation to a pilot’s watch of this class, naturally also implies maximum protection of the movement against magnetic fields by an inner case made of soft iron. This special feature has characterized IWC pilot’s watches since the Mark 11 (1948), which saw service in the cockpit with the Royal Air Force, amongst others. As a matter of course, the sapphire glass of hardness grade 9 is coated on both sides and secured against displacement by a sudden drop in air pressure.

Technical details

Model: IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Edition TOP GUN Ref. IW3799

Movement
Calibre 79230 – Mechanical chronograph movement, split-seconds hand for intermediate
timing, day and date indicator, small seconds with stop function
Balance beats/h: 28,800/h = 4 Hz
Jewels: 29
Power reserve: 44 h
Winding: automatic

Case
Case material: Zirconium dioxide, Case back and operating elements in titanium
Glass : Sapphire, convex, antireflective coated, secured against displacement by drop in air pressure
Protection against magnetic fields by an inner case made of soft iron
Water resistance : 60 m
Diameter : 46 mm
Height :17.8 mm

Strap
Nylon, black

IWC Schaffhausen Portuguese F. A. Jones Squelette (Ref. IW544205 / Ref. IW544206)

Skeletonized watches have a long tradition at IWC and the master craftsman transforms the Portuguese F. A. Jones into a filigree horological work of art.

Under the engraver’s burin, unadorned watch movements metamorphose into small horological theatres, which put on show everything that moves and drives such a fascinating mechanism and keeps it running. Skeletonized movements are a tradition at IWC. This high art is continued with the Portuguese F. A. Jones Squelette, which is considered by connoisseurs to represent the highest level of craft perfection.

In this case, less is more. The movement of the Portuguese F. A. Jones, largely concealed from view by a conventional three-quarter plate in the standard version, is openly exposed here behind the sapphire glasses on the front and rear – together with the winding mechanism, the ratchet locking mechanism, the large barrel and the escapement or the screw balance oscillating at 2.5 Hz. The winding status is even visible on the mainspring itself, which relaxes increasingly inside the open barrel in the course of its 46-hour power reserve.

IWC Schaffhausen Portuguese F. A. Jones Squelette (Ref. IW544205 / Ref. IW544206)

The motion work on the dial side, which the layman does not normally set eyes upon, can also be seen. No plate obstructs the view of the ingenious interplay between the escapement wheel and the pallet fork. All that remain are a few ornamentally hand-decorated and engraved webs – retaining points for screws and jewel bearings. In addition, all load-bearing parts of the movement are rhodium-plated.

The mechanical ensemble no longer shows any resemblance to a machine. The severe forms give the impression of having been resolved with consummate ease. The gold-plated or blued hands – for the hours, minutes and seconds – actually perform their function in the absence of a dial, against the backdrop of the mechanism that drives them.

Launched in 2006, this exclusive model, and a tribute to the founder of IWC, is limited to 100 watches in rose gold and to 50 watches in platinum.

Technical details

Model: IWC Portuguese F. A. Jones Squelette
Ref. IW544205 / Ref. IW544206

Features
Mechanical movement, fully skeletonized and decorated, Glucydur screw balance with high-precision adjustment cams,  Breguet balance spring, elongated precision adjustment index (F. A. Jones type), seconds stop function

Movement
Calibre 98910
Vibrations:18,000/ h
Jewels: 18
Power reserve: 46 h
Winding: hand-wound

Case, dial and strap
Material: platinum, 18 ct. rose gold
Glass: sapphire, antireflective
Folding clasp: platinum or rose gold
Water-resistant: 3 bar (30 m)
Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 11.7 mm

Weight
Watch in platinum with crocodile leather strap (black): 100 g
Watch in rose gold with crocodile leather strap (dark brown): 85 g

IWC Schaffhausen Portuguese Minute Repeater Squelette in Platinum Ref. IW524104

The Portuguese Minute Repeater, with its ability to make the time audible with great accuracy, is already a true horological work of art in its own right. However, the skeletonized limited edition of this orchestra on the wrist makes a further quantum leap forwards – it even displays the source of the tones. This horological solitaire is also available in platinum.

The tones of the Portuguese Minute Repeater are produced in a dark place. It is not normally accessible, even to an inquisitive eye. For this complicated mechanism, assembled from 250 individual parts, operates in seclusion beneath the dial for the pure pleasure of its wearer, for whom it transforms the time into tones with great accuracy in response to a simple movement of the slide.

The repeating mechanism was invented at a time without electric light or luminous hands. The achievement by the watchmakers of an earlier age, who first succeeded in transforming the time indicated by the hands of a watch into a complicated series of movements by wheels, racks and levers, and finally into hammer strokes on gongs, continues to command high respect.

IWC Schaffhausen Portuguese Minute Repeater Squelette in Platinum Ref. IW524104

Only a few master watchmakers today possess this degree of proficiency. Yet the fascination of the Minute Repeater still prevails, even if its original raison d’être no longer applies. In the meantime, IWC has taken yet another decisive step forward with the Portuguese Minute Repeater Squelette. For it now combines acoustic with visual delight: It makes the most spectacular mechanism in the field of the grandes complications visible and readily appreciated.

Admittedly, the Portuguese Minute Repeater made a positive contribution to this project in the sense that, with its case diameter of 42 mm, it approaches the size of a pocket watch. So there really is something to see. Moreover, the complete repeating mechanism is accommodated directly under the dial, and it is not hidden from view by a calendar module of any kind. The critical conceptual step was thus to configure the technical universe of the minute repeater as an animated dial, which is scarcely disturbed by the presence of the two slender hands.

To achieve total transparency, the dial itself was pared down to a narrow graduated ring at the edge of the case, and the repeating mechanism exposed as much as possible. The bridges with their jewel bearings were reduced to a minimal, functionally necessary supporting structure. This skeletonization, which continues as far as the underlying 95911calibre pocket watch movement, is not envisaged as artistic decoration.

Rather the aesthetics of precision and complex mechanics are showcased in a previously unseen fashion behind the two coated sapphire glasses on the front and rear. The Portuguese Minute Repeater Squelette exposes everything. But for only a privileged few. After two strictly limited editions of 50 watches each in rose gold and white gold, the platinum variant in a limited edition of 25 watches crowns this horological work of art in a manner of speaking.

Technical details

Model: IWC Portuguese Minute Repeater Squelette in platinum Ref. IW524104

Features
Skeletonized mechanical movement, minute repeater, small seconds with stop function, Breguet balance spring, limited to 25 pieces

Movement
Calibre 95911
Vibrations : 18,000/h / 2.5 Hz
Jewels : 54
Power reserve : 43 h
Winding : Hand-wound

Case
Material : Platinum
Glass : Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating
Diameter : 43 mm
Height : 12.3 mm

Omega Seamaster James Bond Limited Series, Edition 2006

Carrying on the tradition of the Seamaster James Bond watch, this stainless steel limited edition model is a professional diver’s watch and carries the spiral motif embossed on the dial as seen in the opening credits of the films as well as the diminutive 007 numerals at the end of the seconds hand. This was also one of the first James Bond watches to incorporate the technically advanced Co-Axial Escapement.

Launched in 2006, and Limited to 10’007 pieces, this exclusive Seamaster has more Bond features than previous models. The James Bond Limited Series adopts the classic design features such as the distinct case design, the curved horns and contrasting polished and brushed surfaces as well as the blue “Bond” bezel and dial.

Omega Seamaster James Bond Limited Series, Edition 2006

In true Bond style, eye-catching good looks are combined with a high specification precision machine. The James Bond Limited Series meets with the requisites of a professional diver’s watch as well as passing the rigorous COSC tests that assure its precision as a chronometer. As is required of a professional diver’s watch it is water resistant to 300 metres (1000 feet) and is equipped with a helium escape valve positioned at 10 o’clock.

The helium escape valve allows any atoms of this gas to escape during decompression, a vital function when using a diving bell, as small helium atoms are able to penetrate the case and could cause the watch to explode when expansion occurs during decompression. Other features that distinguish this as a professional diver’s instrument are the screw-in crown and screw-down case back, the uni-directional rotating bezel featuring a luminous dot and the highly visible hands.

The skeleton hour and minute hands are coated with the luminous material SuperLuminova and the seconds hand has a red tip.  The 007 logo at the end of the seconds hand sweeps across the spiral motif embossed on the blue dial, making this the most “Bond” of all the Seamasters to date. The applied hour markers and date window at 3 o’clock ensure that Her Majesty’s secret agent keeps all his appointments and the domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal has received an anti-reflective treatment for optimum clarity.

Omega Seamaster James Bond Limited Series, Edition 2006

The 41mm stainless steel case houses the Calibre 2500 self-winding movement with a 48-hour power reserve. It is also one of the first of these robust watches to incorporate a Co-Axial escapement; the proprietary Omega technology that considerably reduces friction in the heart of the watch mechanism and offers improved long-term reliability and accuracy.

Performance is further improved by a free-sprung balance that allows for more precise adjustments of the watch. The mechanism is sealed into the case by a screw-down back on which the series number of each limited edition watch is engraved as well as an embossed 007 gun logo.

This James Bond Limited Series watch is fitted with a comfortable brushed and polished stainless steel bracelet featuring a safety clasp with the engraving of the 007 logo.

Omega Planet Ocean ‘Orange Mecanique’

Introduced in 2006, the Planet Ocean ‘Orange Mecanique’ takes the orange theme a step further and displays a striking combination of precision engineering and fine gem-setting. Zesty orange sapphires and sparkling white diamond baguettes are set into the bezel and draw the eye to the contrast with the dark mother-of-pearl dial.

The ultra glamorous Planet Ocean ‘Orange Mecanique’ is a COSC certified chronometer that retains many of the original diver’s watch functions including helium escape valve.

The white gold dial is overlaid with black mother-of-pearl creating an attractive dark blue shade that stands out against the bright orange of the alligator strap and the baguette sapphires on the bezel.

Omega Planet Ocean ‘Orange Mecanique’ automatic diving watch 600 meters

The hour markers are baguette diamonds, complemented by Arabic numerals in orange at 12, 6 and 9 o’clock combined with a practical date indicator at 3 o’clock. True to the demands of a diver’s watch, the facetted rhodium-plated arrowhead hour and minute hands are coated with Super Luminova to aid visibility ensuring that the dial will be legible even when taking this bejewelled chronometer to the darkest depths of the ocean. The minute markers and the Omega logo are in sober white.

Omega Planet Ocean ‘Orange Mecanique’ automatic diving watch 600 meters

The white gold bezel is available in five different combinations of baguette diamonds and orange sapphires. The five choices are: all orange sapphires; sapphires interspersed with diamonds at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock; an uninterrupted row of diamonds from 12 to 3 o’clock representing the regulation 15 minutes diving time; one diamond to every two sapphires; or finally, sapphires from 12 to 3 o’clock and diamonds from 3 to 12 o’clock.

The Planet Ocean ‘Orange Mecanique’ is equipped with Calibre 2500, a high precise self-winding chronometer movement with a power reserve of 48 hours. The Co-Axial escapement, proprietary Omega technology, considerably reduces friction in the heart of the watch mechanism and offers improved long-term reliability and accuracy. This COSC-certified chronometer is further improved by a free-sprung balance.

Omega Planet Ocean ‘Orange Mecanique’ automatic diving watch 600 meters

The stainless steel case comes in two sizes: 42 mm and an impressive 45.5 mm. The dial is enclosed behind a domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides for optimum clarity. To enhance water resistance, the case features both a screw-in crown and case back; the latter is decorated with the Seamaster seahorse medallion.

Water-resistant to a depth of 600 metres (2,000 feet), the Planet Ocean ‘Orange Mecanique’ is equipped with a helium escape valve positioned at 10 o’clock and embossed with the chemical symbol for helium “He”. The helium escape valve allows any atoms of this gas to escape preserving the watch and the movement from potential decompression damages.

This model is fitted with an over-stitched orange alligator strap with a stainless steel fold over clasp.

Chopard Fascination Mille Miglia Turismo XL 2006

Chopard and Mille Miglia: a passion sealed each year since 1988 with the creation of an exclusive timepiece. Launched in 2006 the Fascination Mille Miglia is a high-performance model with an oversized case. The imposing Mille Miglia 2006 Gran Turismo XL houses a movement whose size is as impressive as its endurance and reliability.

Chopard Fascination Mille Miglia Turismo XL 2006

The 24 jewels COSC-certified ETA A07.111 automatic calibre offers a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. The silvered dial has luminescent hour markers, numerals and hands plus red minute-track and “arrow” seconds hand and a date window at 3 o’clock.

Chopard Fascination Mille Miglia Turismo XL 2006

Case back is engraved with the route for the legendary race. This model has a strong character and comes in a limited, individually-numbered edition: 2006 pieces in steel, 250 in pink gold.

Technical details

Model: Chopard Fascination Mille Miglia Turismo XL 2006

Movement
Automatic, ETA A07.111, COSC-certified chronometer, 24 jewels
Power reserve approximately 40 hours, 28,800 v/h

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date

Case
Steel, 44 mm
Screw-down crown
Double-sided, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, magnifying-glass at 3 o’clock
Back engraved with the route for the race, individually numbered
Water-resistant to 100 metres

Dial
Silvered
Luminescent hour markers, numerals and hands
2 large Arabic numerals at 6 and 12 o’clock
Red minute-track and “arrow” seconds hand
Date window at 3 o’clock

Strap
Black rubber with Dunlop Racing tyre profile from the 1960’s, or leather, folding clasp

Other versions
750 (18K) pink gold case

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph, Edition 2006

Launched in 2005, the Planet Ocean was one of the most spoken about watches of that year, thanks to its rugged and functional styling. In 2006 Omega enriched the Planet Ocean line with a brand new model, the Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph.

Originally conceived as an evolution of the 1957 Seamaster 300 model, this second-generation Co-Axial Planet Ocean surpasses all the requisites of a professional diver’s watch. This Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph is equipped with Calibre 3313 that has a superlative column-wheel chronograph mechanism.

The Planet Ocean Chronograph pays tribute to its origins by the Seamaster’s traditional Seahorse emblem on the screw-down back, the fluted bezel, smooth link bracelet and strong use of contrasting colours on the dial. The Seamaster family is a core range of Omega’s watchmaking heritage and the sportiest member of the 1950’s trio, which also includes the classic Railmaster and the Speedmaster, the first and only watch worn on the moon. All three share design features such as the distinct case design, the curved horns and contrasting polished and brushed surfaces.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph, Edition 2006

This edition of Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph was launched in two main colour versions, either with orange highlights on the bezel, numbers, sub-dials and push-buttons or a more sober black bezel and push-buttons with white dial details. A third option combines orange and white dial details with a black bezel and push-buttons. All versions of the Planet Ocean chronograph are housed in an imposing and robust 45.5mm diameter polished and brushed stainless steel case.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph, Edition 2006

Beyond the requisites of a professional diver’s watch (300 metres/1000 feet) this model is water resistant to 600 metres/2000 feet. Other features that distinguish this as a professional diver’s instrument are the screw-in crown and screw-down case back, the helium escape valve, the fluted uni-directional rotating bezel featuring a luminous dot and the highly visible hands on the dial.

Positioned at 10 o’clock and embossed with the chemical symbol for helium “He”, the helium escape valve allows any atoms of this gas to escape during decompression. This is a vital function when using a diving bell, as minuscule helium atoms are able to penetrate the case and could damage the watch when expansion occurs during decompression. The chronograph push-buttons, made of steel and decorated with a coloured aluminium ring, are functional to 600 metres/2000 feet while the domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal has received an anti-reflective treatment on both sides for optimum clarity.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph, Edition 2006

The matt black dial offers excellent contrast thanks to applied luminous hour markers and the use of Arabic numerals in either white or orange at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. The date window is positioned between 4 and 5 o’clock.

The facetted rhodium-plated arrowhead hour and minute hands have SuperLuminova inserts and a highly visible orange tip further enhances the luminous arrowhead seconds hand. Along with the luminous dot on the bezel, the high visibility of the markers and hands are invaluable for measuring precise dive times, even when descending to the darkest depths of the ocean.

True to the Seamaster’s roots, the Calibre 3313 high-quality self-winding mechanical movement with a power reserve of 52 hours drives the Planet Ocean Chronograph. The Co-Axial escapement, proprietary Omega technology, considerably reduces friction in the heart of the watch mechanism and offers improved long-term reliability and accuracy.

A free-sprung balance further improves this COSC-certified chronometer. The column-wheel mechanism serves to perfect the chronograph’s performance. It ensures a smooth start to the sweep of the seconds hands when the chronograph is activated and provides precision stop and reset functions.

The rhodium-plated movement has been given a luxurious finish and the bridges are decorated with attractive circular graining, Geneva waves and gold-plated engravings and the screw-down case back features a seahorse medallion.

All three models are available on a comfortable satin finished stainless-steel bracelet with polished sides. The fold over safety clasp is secured with an easy to use release mechanism. These models are also available on a black rubber strap with either white or orange stitching, a plain orange rubber strap or the famous orange alligator strap. All straps incorporate a stainless steel fold over clasp.

Chronoswiss Perpetual Calendar

Introduced in 2006, the perpetual calendar watch by Chronoswiss belongs to the brand’s exclusive family of complication timepieces like Quarter Repeaters and Flying Tourbillon.

The first Chronoswiss-models with eternal calendar already had automatic movements. They were then manufactured by ETA. But this model contains the exclusive Chronoswiss manufacture-Caliber C. 127, which most reliably and precisely drives the complicated app. 50-part calendar-module.

Chronoswiss Perpetual Calendar

Lang’s philosophy is based on the systematic examination of the horological tradition. Part of this examination is the subtle knowledge pertaining to the lengths and the proportions of the hands, the design of the dial and the execution of the case. When it comes to the horological application, functionality, dependability, precision and craftsmanship detail are the top priorities.

This statement can be confirmed in no time at all with one glance through the sapphire-crystal base at the automatic Chronoswiss caliber C.127. The balance-wheel makes 21,600 vibrations per hour. The ball bearing rotor passes its stored energy very efficiently to the tension spring.

Entirely wound-up, its power-reserve lasts for about forty hours. Things are different when it comes to the intricate calendar-gears. It accomplishes its calendar-tasks beneath the dial and is hidden from curious looks. But not because it has something to hide, but only because of technical reasons. After all, three staffs which indicate the day of the week, the date and the month as well as a lunar disk protrude outward.

The specialty of the calendar-module 5800 C consists of a level-disk, which turns around its own axis once every four years. Grooves in the circumference indicate the lengths of the different months to the mechanism. Contrary to the ordinary, the lunar disk also turns to the left since Gerd-Rüdiger Lang desired a toppled indication of the livid moon for aesthetic reasons. This exclusive Chronoswiss calendar-module originates from the mechanic specialist Dubois Dépraz from the Vallée de Joux in Switzerland.

The gears have a diameter of 26.2 mm and a height of 5.2 mm and 30 jewels. The massive crown and adjustment pushers do not have to be exchanged during water-resistance tests since the crown’s gaskets are directly attached to the tube. This service-friendly system only requires the replacement of the gaskets themselves and it is essential cheaper.

The Chronoswiss “Perpetual Calendar” watch is visually stunning because of its harmonic ensemble of massive silver dial with varnished top and blue steel hands in the “Poire Stuart” style. It is in perfect harmony with the massive, 36-part case. Characteristic of the complication is the elimination of the knurled bezel, which stylistically unifies the “Perpetual Calendar” with the repeater wristwatch.

Technical details

Model: Chronoswiss Perpetual Calendar

References
CH 1720 Platinum 950, limited to 99 pieces
CH 1721 18 Ct. Gold 2N
CH 1721 R 18Ct. Rose gold 5N
CH 1721 W 18Ct. White gold
CH 1723 Steel

Display
Hour and minute, great second, date-indication, day of the week-display, 48- months- indication, indication of the leap-year, lunar indication, and lunar age

Case
Massive 36-part case, ø 40 mm, height 12.9 mm, pusher and turnip-crown and adjustment pusher as part of the case, adjustment pusher screwed, screwed and polished bezel with one-sided non-reflective sapphire crystal, screw-on case back with full-thread and one-sided non-reflective sapphire crystal, screw-on lugs with patented system Autobloc, water-resistant up to 3 atm (30m)

Movement
Chronoswiss Manufacture Caliber C.127,ø 26.80 mm (11 3/4´´´), 30 jewels (incl. module), Incabloc shock absorber,40 hours power reserve, 3 Hz., 21,600 A/h (vibrations), fine adjustment pusher by eccentric, individually numbered
Module: Calendar-Module 5800 C (Dubois-Dépraz), 48-level indication, module ø 26.20 mm, left-running lunar phase, reserved for Chronoswiss

Dial
Massive 925 Sterling-Silver dial, colour: off-white (Coquille d’oeuf) blue-varnished Steel hands, shape: Poire Stuart

Auguste Reymond Cotton Club Big Date Automatic

Swiss watch brand Auguste Reymond’s flagship line, the Cotton Club, is dedicated to watch complications. Here features an elegant automatic model – Cotton Club Big Date – that boasts a large date window at 12’o clock and power reserve indicator at 6’o clock.

Equipped with AR 9090 self winding movement, the Cotton Club Big Date is available in Steel, Bimetallic steel and 750 (18K) yellow gold versions. Case measures 38.50 mm and is fitted with crown with blue cabochon and sapphire crystal transparent case back. The silvered, guilloché dial features Roman numeral hour markers.

Auguste Reymond Cotton Club Big Date Automatic watch with power reserve

Technical details

Model: Auguste Reymond Cotton Club Big Date Automatic

Movement
Automatic, AR 9090
Côtes de Genève pattern, blued steel screws, gilded rotor

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, power reserve

Case
Steel, 38.50 mm
Crown with blue cabochon
Sapphire crystal, transparent back

Dial
Silvered, guilloché, Roman numerals
Large date window at 12 o’clock
Power reserve at 6 o’clock

Strap
Calfskin, blue

Other versions
Bimetallic steel and 750 (18K) yellow gold case

Links

Omega Speedmaster Rattrapante Co-Axial

Introduced in 2006, the Speedmaster Rattrapante Co-Axial model in steel evokes the original 1950’s models with its classic curved horns and round polished push-buttons. Add to this the column wheel chronograph with vertical coupling function, the Co-Axial escapement and a COSC certificate.

By allowing one watch to record two or more events, the Rattrapante (or split-seconds) that was introduced in 1930, helped eliminate discrepancies between two chronographs in sports timing. Likewise, the column wheel introduced in 1898 into a pocket watch, allows precision start, stop and reset functions of the multiple hands of the chronograph.

Sports enthusiasts today can time laps or two events without resorting to a second timekeeper while the tachymeter scale allows average speeds to be calculated over a set distance. Furthermore the red Pulsometer scale on the dial serves to take pulse readings.

Omega Speedmaster Rattrapante Co-Axial

This watch is driven by a mechanical movement, in this case the self-winding Omega calibre 3612. The Co-Axial escapement, technology that is exclusive to Omega, represents one of the most important advances in watchmaking over the last 250 years.

The Co-Axial escapement considerably reduces friction in the heart of the watch mechanism and offers improved long-term reliability and accuracy. Performance is further improved by a free-sprung balance that allows for more precise adjustments of the watch.

The watch has a 52-hour power-reserve and the white rhodium-plated movement is finished to luxury standards with special waves, circular-graining and gold plated engraving. The screws and the column-wheel components are made of blued-steel and the movement is visible behind the sapphire crystal case back.

Omega Speedmaster Rattrapante Co-Axial

Two versions of the dial are available with black counters against a silver dial and vice versa, allowing for easy reading of both the chronograph and time functions. The red Pulsometer scale running around the outside of the dial provides another useful function and the fixed brushed stainless steel bezel incorporates an engraved tachymeter scale.

Luminous, facetted and diamond-polished Broad Arrow hour and minute hands are easy to read while the red tip of the split-seconds hand allows precise readings to 1/8th of a second and the date window is positioned at 6 o’clock. The Omega logo and hour markers are applied to the dial.

Omega Speedmaster Rattrapante Co-Axial

The polished and brushed stainless steel case has a diameter of 44.25 mm and is water resistant to 100-m/330 ft and incorporates a watertight double-gasket crown. The domed and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal has an anti-reflective treatment. A third push-button at 10 o’clock activates the split second function.

The Speedmaster Rattrapante Co-Axial is available on either a satin finished stainless steel bracelet with a safety clasp or on a brown over stitched calfskin strap with a fold over stainless steel clasp.

Credor Spring Drive Sonnerie (Ref GBLQ998) – The First Striking Watch Built By SEIKO

The SEIKO Credor Spring Drive Sonnerie is a classic mechanical wrist watch that features the Hour Striking Function. It is the first striking watch built by the Japanese watch making giant SEIKO.

Introduced in 2006, the Credor Spring Drive Sonnerie (Ref GBLQ998) is a land mark timepiece that adds a golden feather to SEIKO’s unmatched achievements in horology in its 100 years of rich history. This Grande complication model has been derived from the enormous success of Spring Drive, a watch that presents, visually, the pure, natural and continuous motion of time.

The challenge was to express the passage of time in sound as well as by the smooth movement of the hands across the dial. The challenge was taken up by a small and elite team of watch making craftsmen in SEIKO Epson under the leadership of Mr. Kenji Shiohara. This team, “the Micro Artist Studio,” was guided by a shared passion for the creation of distinctively Japanese timepieces which express both the technical skill of SEIKO and the cultural heritage of Japan.

The result is a unique and hugely innovative timepiece which conveys to both eye and ear the serene flow of time. The continuous stream of each second, minute and hour is indicated by the quiet revolution of the glide-motion hands around the dial, and the time is also marked by a unique chime expressed in a softly tinkling “hanging” bell. This bell chime resonates with the cultural heritage of Japan and is instantly recognizable as an auditory symbol of the nation’s centuries of tradition.
Credor Spring Drive Sonnerie (Ref GBLQ998) - The First Striking Watch Built By SEIKOThe watch is built on the base of the ground-breaking Spring Drive movement 7R series with its glide-motion hands and 48 hour power reserve. Onto this Spring Drive movement is added the “sonnerie” mechanism which has its own, entirely separate barrel, ensuring that this mechanism has more than 40 hours of power reserve.

The power reserve is shown on a second indicator at the two o’clock position. The movement is easy to operate with just the one crown at the 3 o’clock position and a mode indicator at 6 o’clock. The movement comprises over 600 individual parts, each uniquely made and, of course, hand assembled and finished to the highest levels of precision.

The Hour Striking Function
The “sonnerie” mechanism has an hour striking function. It is built around typical Japanese hanging bell sound. This was chosen because its unique and lingering sound harmonizes with the natural flow of time and space. Purity of sound was the greatest challenge, and the achievement of the perfect bell sound was made possible by the remarkable combination of a bell system, the use of a newly developed governor and the unique sound escape system that allows the chime sound to pass through the case.

This governor mechanism is a remarkable innovation. It uses the viscosity of air so that the chime sounds at very precise intervals and there is no other sound to interfere with the pure strike of the bell. Combined with the entirely silent Tri-synchro regulator, the absolute silence of the whole movement is ensured and the complete purity of the sound is the delightful result. The hour striking function can be set to one of three different modes: an hourly strike, three hourly strike, or silence. To power the hour striking function, a spring exclusive to this mechanism is used in parallel with the watch mechanism’s barrel.

The hour repeating function announces the current time by chiming each hour when the button located at the 8 o’clock position is pressed. A silent function is included so that chiming can be muted as long as the button located at 8 o’clock position is pressed halfway down. The movement has a “fail-safe” mechanism to prevent the chime sounding when inappropriate actions are performed by mistake.

The Modes
The mechanism offers the following three modes:

1. “Sonnerie” mode: the number of hours is automatically counted by chiming every hour on the hour.
2. “Original” mode: the time is announced by a three-strike chime at the passing of every three hours: 12:00, 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00.
3. “Silent” mode: the chime is disengaged.

These modes can be selected simply by changing the mode indicator.

The Design
As befits a watch of such intricacy and sophistication, the strike hammer is visible through the dual surface curved sapphire crystal. The case itself is crafted from 18-karat pink gold, which not only reflects the value of the movement but assists the purity of the sound of the chime.

On the mainspring barrel of the bell mechanism, a cutout Japanese bellflower (Kikyo flower in Japanese) drifts down on a river, symbolizing the continuous flow of time. The Japanese bellflower is chosen because it is the flower of the city where the Micro Artist Studio is located.

Technical details

  • Case: 18-karat pink gold
  • Band: Crocodile
  • Glass: Dual surface curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
  • Water resistance: Non water-resistant
  • Size: [Case outside diameter] 43.2mm/[Thickness] 16.0mm
  • Retail price (In 2006): 15 million Japanese Yen (excluding tax and import duty)

Caliber details

Spring Drive Sonnerie caliber, 7R06

  • Hour striking function
  • Three modes selectable: chiming every hour on the hour/chiming every three hours/silent
    Hour repeating function
  • Power reserve indicators: Two. One each for the watch mechanism and the bell mechanism
  • Wind-up method: Manual-winding
  • Time accuracy: Monthly rate within ±15 sec (equivalent to a daily rate of ±1 sec)
  • Power reserve (watch mechanism): Approx. 48 hours
  • Power reserve (bell mechanism): More than 40 hours
  • Number of jewels: 88
  • Movement diameter: 37.0 mm
  • Movement thickness: 7.05 mm
  • 617 components

Production quantity

Limited to five pieces per year.

Eberhard & Co. Scafodat

Scafodat, the diving-watch collection for professional use, resumes and actualises the Eberhard & Co.’s tradition in sport watches with technical features. The ingenuity of its production and the careful selection of the materials make Scafodat water-resistant down to 500 m.

Eberhard Scafodat is characterised by such interesting technical details as the big crown located at 4 o’clock, equipped with a special security device. The crown activates the inner rotating flange, protected by a non-reflecting sapphire glass, which is especially useful for indicating diving times on a sexagesimal basis.

Eberhard Co. Scafodat automatic diving watch 500 meters water resistance

The security valve is fitted on the middle part. It works automatically and sees to it that helium escapes in the decompression phase. Scafodat comes in steel, it has a mechanical automatic movement and screw-in crown.

The caseback is locked by screws, and an individual feature of it is the traditional seahorse image that was inspired by the original design registered in 1958. The black dials have triangular indexes warranting high-grade readability both in the classical and sportive versions.

Steel, Chicane bracelet with bracelet extender system (patent pending), Déclic folding clasp (patent pending)

Scafodat is available with the special Chicane bracelet in steel with an innovative system to lengthen it (patent pending) and the Déclic deployment clasp, or with an ergonomic rubber strap devised for optimum wearing comfort.

Technical details

Model: Eberhard Scafodat

Movement
Automatic

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, graduated sexagesimal scale

Case
Steel, 44 mm, polished bezel
2 screw-down crowns positioned at 2 and 4 o’clock
Automatic decompression valve
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal (3 mm)
Screw-down back, engraved with sea horse motif
Water-resistant to 500 metres

Dial
Black; 4 luminescent triangular hour markers
Red or white hour markers, luminescent rhodium-plated hands
Graduated bi-directional scale on rim, with luminescent markers
Date at 3 o’clock

Bracelet/Strap
Steel, Chicane model with bracelet extender system (patent pending), Déclic folding clasp (patent pending), or black rubber strap.

BLANCPAIN Women Quantiéme Complet Phases de Lune Orchidée

Combining diamonds and a case with sleek, understated lines, matched with an elegant satin or python strap, Blancpain has chosen to associate these luxurious watches, radiating a refinement conducive to expressing elegance and beauty, with the orchid. Capricious, strange and bewitching, the orchid symbolises purity and elegance. The embodiment of refined sensuality, this jewellery-watch plays on contrasts and materials.

Complex and yet discreet, it reveals its inner beauty with the charm of true simplicity. As befits these most classical timepieces in the collection, they are all equipped with Blancpain’s signature complete calendar movement. The theme of this elegant complication is confirmed by the clever integration of the calendar indications appearing on the dial. Slender and original Roman numerals are set off by subtle geometrical contrasts.

BLANCPAIN Women Quantiéme Complet Phases de Lune Orchidée

At the centre of the round dial, a square minute track underscores the originality of the moon with its distinctly human face. The centre panel of the dial framing the calendar indications is fashioned out of mother of pearl in a colour matching that of the dial perimeter. The full moon bears harmonious feminine features graced with a tiny star-shaped “beauty spot”. Individually set diamonds on each side of the case provide a stylish counterpoint to the refined calendar.

So as to preserve this precious blend of classicism, exquisite refinement and elegance, the 34 mm cases of the two models are offered exclusively in white gold.

BLANCPAIN Women Quantiéme Complet Phases de Lune Orchidée

Endowed with a 100-hour power reserve, mechanical self-winding Calibre 6753 drives indications of the hours, minute, seconds, pointer-type date display, day of the week, month and moon phases. These ultra-chic timepieces are available in a choice of white or black colour scheme, complemented by straps matching the colour of the dial.

This collection is equipped with the brand-new folding clasp system for the straps. Built with double folding arms engraved with the decorative Blancpain logo, each side is guided into place by a cleverly integrated spring, making the clasp look exactly like a classic pin buckle.

To further integrate these fine timepieces into the lifestyle of today’s women, Blancpain has re-invented the presentation box that accompanies each watch. Fashioned out of marbled maple wood, this elegant showcase also provides storage space for other fine jewellery creations.

BREITLING Airwolf Chronograph

Introduced in 2006, Airwolf is a multifunction electronic chronograph from Breitling’s Professional line. This wrist instrument exclusively offers the functions that are most useful for pilots: alarm, 1/100th of a second chronograph with split and add times, countdown, dual time zone with independent alarm, UTC and perpetual calendar.

Handling of these functions is designed to be logical, simple and direct. Specially designed for aviation professionals, Airwolf is indeed a model of efficiency in all respects: Ergonomics with the new curved chronograph push-pieces, Legibility with oversized hands and NVG-compatible display backlighting and the precision and reliability with the SuperQuartz™ movement, chronometer-certified by the COSC.

BREITLING Airwolf Chronograph

While the Airwolf chronograph has a highly distinctive face with its two digital displays, applied numerals and hour-markers and its bezel adorned with a windrose, the most original detail is to be found on the caseback. This turbine-shaped construction, serving as a resonance chamber for the alarm and the other audible indications, is a marvel of micro-mechanical engineering. Each of its 24 blades has been cut out with extreme precision and then hand-assembled and fusion-soldered. A double caseback system guarantees perfect water resistance to 50 meters.

BREITLING Airwolf Chronograph

In a nod towards Breitling’s aeronautical vocation, this motif evoking a jet engine is subtly echoed in the dial decoration. The famous Breitling rack-and-pinion mounted slide-rule ensures optimal read-off precision. Whether in the generous case dimensions, sophisticated dial details or the finishing of its fluted bezel, the entire design of the Airwolf reflects the perfect melding of form and function, technique and style.

Technical details

Movement
Breitling Caliber 78, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC
Quartz electronic thermo-compensated SuperQuartz™ movement

Functions
LCD 12/24-hour analog and digital displays
NVG compatible backlighting
1/100th of a second chronograph
Alarm, countdown
2nd timezone with independent alarm
Perpetual calendar

Case
Steel, Diameter: 43.5 mm
Water-resistant to 5 bars (50 meters, 165 feet)
Sapphire crystal, glare-proofed both sides
Bidirectional rotating pinion bezel (slide-rule)
Wind-rose

Straps/Bracelet
Barenia leather, crocodile leather, rubber Diver, Pro/steel Professional bracelet

Cuervo y Sobrinos Robusto Tricalendografo phase de lune

Introduced in 2006, this timepiece reflects Cuban refinement with Swiss technical perfection. This urbane and sporty automatic wristwatch features a complete calendar, with the days and months in two windows as well as a date hand and a moon phase indicator. The dials, with their subtle colours, are embellished with a central Clou de Paris decoration.

Cuervo y Sobrinos - Robusto Tricalendografo phase de lune

Technical details

Model: Cuervo y Sobrinos Robusto Tricalendografo phase de lune

Movement
Automatic Dubois Dépraz 9000 (on an ETA 2892-A2 base), rhodium-plated, circular-grained and Côtes de Genève finishings

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day, month and moon phases

Case
Steel
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal on both sides
Screw-down crown
Transparent screw-down back
CyS logo engraved on rotor
Water-resistant to 100 m

Dial
Honey/gold, black, silver, tobacco and rosewood
Central Clou de Paris decoration
Day and month windows at 12 o’clock
Calendar hand at centre of dial
Blue indigo moon phase at 6 o’clock

Strap
Dial-matching Louisiana crocodile, with buckle or folding clasp

Other versions
Steel bracelet