Tag Archives: NOVELTIES 2005

NOVELTIES 1990 -2006

DODANE 1857 TYPE 21 RE-EDITION

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Founded in 1857 and now based in Besancon in France, DODANE 1857 is a specialist in chronometric instruments of navigation for military and civil aviation. In 2005, the company re-issued the TYPE 21, the famous chronograph watch provided to the pilots of French Airforce from the sixties.

The TYPE 21 is the symbol of precision watchmaking craftsmanship in service to the armed forces. Full-fledged navigational instruments, these chronographs were designed on the basis of strict specifications from the Ministry of Defence.

The technical qualities of the TYPE 21, combined with its reliability, have made it a truly renowned timepiece. The distinctive features of the watch provide a refined, authentic style, perfectly preserving the line and personality of the original watch that was the pride of generations of pilots. This personalized limited edition is assembled in the Swiss Jura region, respecting age-old watchmaking traditions.

Military watches have a history; they reflect intensive efforts in the quest for precision and authenticity. The watch actually had to compensate for onboard instrument failure by acting as a navigational instrument for the pilot. While conserving their precision, these chronographs already withstood extreme constraints in terms of acceleration, vibration, temperature variations and resistance to magnetic effects.

By official command from the French General Staff, the House of Dodane developed the Type 21 in the 1950’s. The “fly-back” function was the principal requirement in the stringent specifications then set out for the chronograph by the Ministry of Defence.

DODANE TYPE 21

The “fly-back “function enables the user to set the stopwatch to zero and then to restart immediately the chronograph function. The Air Force has imposed this condition as it was vital for pilots when they would fly over a beacon or when they had to land relying on the time given by the control tower.

LAURENT DODANE TYPE 21

Among other requirements from the French National Defence’s specifications: an autonomy of over 35 hours, a maximum time difference of 8 seconds per any 24 hours. The difference was reduced to 0.2 seconds per minute and 0.5 seconds per half hour for chronometers. Besides, the chronograph was supposed to operate at least 300 starts, stops and zero-setting in a row.

Already used by the Air Force and other corps, the Type 21 was supplied to NATO forces involved in sensitive missions. In the 1990’s, Dodane Type 21 chronographs continued to wield their talent in Army light aviation.

Launched in 2005, the new Type 21 chronograph was designed as homage to the original TYPE 21 of 1956 based on the basis of specifications from the Ministry of Defence. This modern incarnation features upgraded movement, enhanced water resistance, better accuracy and superb finishing.

For their products, Dodane 1857 incorporates manufacturing standards of the Swiss made label. They design, develop and control the timepieces within their company in Besancon and sub-contract the manufacture and the assembly with a great company specialized in watches complications which work with most of famous Swiss watches brand manufacturers.

The movement which powers the TYPE 21 reissue is Dubois-Dépraz 42021 on a basis of an ETA 2892-A2. Dubois-Depraz is an independent Swiss company, specialized in the complications movements making intended to be integrated on a great number of prestigious brands models. The movement is equipped with the Incabloc system and shockproof.

The calibre ETA 2892A2 is used as a basis of engine and drive control, on which the watchmakers add a chronometric module and Flyback function. This high precision base movement manufactured by ETA beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour. The movement, the ETA base + Module stopwatch flyback, completely is assembled and set within the Dubois-Depraz company.

The Flyback complication which Dubois-Depraz carries out is rare because it’s complex to develop and DD has an exceptional know-how. The movement features “Côte de Genève” decoration with the gilt engraving of the brand and the Bottom plate and bridges decorated.

The brand has also paid a detailed attention to the sealing of the watch which is of 10 bars (100m) in order to arrive at the highest standards in term of sealing.

The customers can choose the standard model or the Chronometer version with “chronometric instrument” certificate by the “National Observatory of Time Measurement” in Besancon, an independent academic verification agency. Additional charges required for chronometer certification.

Measuring 41.50 mm diameter and 13.70 mm thickness, the stainless steel (316L) case of the watch ensures the antimagnetic safety for the parts of movement.

The leather strap of the chronograph is in black colour in order to respect the original type 21 Ministry of Defence specifications.

The stainless steel bracelet of the Type 21 was made in France by a French band manufacturer. Its complete plain 316 L, solid stainless steel links made by CNC (Numerically controlled Machines) and fixed by special hardened pins (it’s not stamped links).

The hands are made in Besançon and the dials are made in Switzerland.

The Type 21 is a very high-precision chronograph. It is equipped with a special mechanism called “fly-back” enabling to measure pre-set time with continuous or interrupted operations.

This function enables to start, stop and restart the central hand telling seconds divided to the 5th as well as the hands telling minutes and hours.

The chronometer’s Start function is set by pushing the first push-button A. With a second push on this button, the central hand is stopped. A third push on the same button re-starts the chronometer hand. This enables to stop a time measurement and re-start it at the stop mark.

Zero-setting function of seconds, minutes and hours is obtained by pushing the second push-button B.

The Fly-back device allows it to be instantly reset during the chronograph’s operation by pressing the second button (B), without having to first stop the operation with the first button (A). When pressure is maintained on the second button, the hand stays at zero and only starts again when pressure is released.

The device enables an aircraft pilot or ship’s captain to follow instructions and change headings according to a predefined course. Once a sequence has elapsed, pressure on the button launches the following sequence.

The rotating bezel completes the sums of minutes and hours by acting as a countdown timer. For a four hour flight, the pilot enters the number 4 opposite the hour hand of the main dial, and starts the chronograph: when the hour hand is opposite the luminous 0 mark, the four hours have elapsed.

The tachometer measurement enables to know the plane speed when taking off on a short runway. As a matter of fact, if the pilot has not reached the sufficient acceleration to take off regarding a pre-set distance, he or she will choose to reverse the engine push in order to try to take off again safely.

Technical details

Case
316 L stainless steel case (Also available in black PVD version)
Diameter: 41.50 mm
Thickness: 13.70 mm
Unidirectional rotating bezel with anti-clockwise return pawl
Sapphire Upper Glass and Hardened Glass case-back
Water-resistant 100 meters (10 bars)

Dial
Three Chronographs totalisators (hour, minute, second) to the 1/5th of second
Superluminova Hands and figures luminescent

Movement
57 jewels Automatic chronograph movement 42021 Dubois Depraz Swiss-made Chronometric assortment
Bidirectional winding ball-bearing central rotor
Flyback function
42 hours of power reserve
Finishing: «Cote de Genève» finishing on winding mechanism, polished-surfacing with chamfered bridges, blues screws, Bridge rhodium finishing, Colimaçon decoration on Barrel

Strap
Leather strap or Stainless steel bracelet with double claps opening

Retail price*
4000 Euros (*Approximate price as on Apr 2019)
450 Euros extra for chronometer certification
Personalization is available (Additional charges apply)

NOVELTIES 1990 -2006

Breitling Montbrillant Olympus

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For Breitling, the name Montbrillant refers to chronographs endowed with a wealth of tradition and exclusive features. One such model is the Montbrillant Olympus, a chronograph inspired by the finest products made by the brand in the course of its history. The beaded bezel, for example, is a faithful reproduction of the first chronographs equipped with a slide rule.

In the same spirit, the two-tone dial clearly distinguishes the timekeeping zone from the logarithmic scales. On the back of the watch is a medallion depicting the factory built by Léon Breitling in 1892 on Montbrillant Street, in the watchmaking town of La Chaux-de- Fonds. Yet it is the mechanism of the Montbrillant Olympus that best reflects Breitling’s strong attachment to tradition.

Caliber 19 is a highly complex movement, made up of almost 250 components, enabling not only the measurement of short times, but also the simultaneous indication of the date, the day, the month and the moon-phases.

The mechanism is programmed to provide this information without any need for adjustments throughout a complete leap-year cycle, meaning four years.

Technical details

Model: Breitling Montbrillant Olympus

Movement
Mechanical self-winding Breitling Caliber 19, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, high frequency (28,800 vibrations per hour), 38 jewels. 1/4th of a second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers. Leap-year calendar with indication of the date, day, month and moon-phases.

Case
Steel, 18K rose gold (limited series). Resistant to 3 bars. Rotating bezel with circular slide rule. Domed sapphire crystal, glare-proofed both sides. Diameter: 42.10 mm.

Strap/bracelet
Barenia leather, crocodile leather/Navitimer

NOVELTIES 1990 -2006

Blancpain Apotheosis Temporis – Limited Edition Set with 8 Timepieces – Ultra Slim, Time Zone, Moon Phase Calendar, Perpetual Calendar with Correctors Hidden under the Lugs, Single Push-button Chronograph with Split-seconds, Tourbillon, Equation Marchante Pure and Minute Repeater

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In 2005, as part of its celebration of the 270th Anniversary of its founding, Blancpain unveiled a limited edition set, the Apotheosis Temporis.

Inspired by the Six Masterpieces released nearly two decades earlier, the Apotheosis Temporis Set incorporated all of the classic complications from the Six Masterpieces and added two more Blancpain signature complications: a dual time zone watch and a running equation of time perpetual calendar watch.

The equation of time addition is particularly significant as it represents a world first achieved by Blancpain a year earlier when it debuted the first wristwatch ever to incorporate this complex mechanism. Further underscoring its complication prowess, Blancpain endowed the entire Apotheosis Temporis collection with automatic winding.

Villeret Equation Marchante Pure “Apotheosis Temporis”, (Ref. 6038A-3430-55B)

All eight pieces in the set – Ultra Slim, Time Zone, Moon Phase Calendar, Perpetual Calendar with Correctors Hidden under the Lugs, Single Push-button Chronograph with Split-seconds, Tourbillon, Equation Marchante Pure and Minute Repeater – were turned out in platinum, with special black dials reserved for the collection, and featured winding rotors unique to the set.

The Blancpain APOTHEOSIS TEMPORIS Set consists of platinum versions following watch models:-

  • Ultraplate (Ultra Slim)
  • Time Zone
  • Quantième à Phases de Lune (Moon Phase Calendar)
  • Quantième Perpétuel avec Correcteurs sous cornes (Perpetual Calendar with Correctors Hidden under the Lugs)
  • Chronographe Monopoussoir à Rattrapante (Single Push-button Chronograph with Split-seconds)
  • Tourbillon
  • Equation Marchante Pure (Equation of Time)
  • Répétition Minutes (Minute Repeater)
Done in the Villeret Collection style, this limited edition, which sold out immediately, featured a custom eight-rotor winding box to house the collection.

The cases of the eight creations making up the Blancpain Apotheosis Temporis set feature 950 platinum cases and house a subtle matt black dial with white gold applied hour-markers.

Water-resistant to 30 metres (apart from the Minute Repeater), these cases have a diameter of 38 mm and are fitted with a sapphire crystal that is glare-proofed both sides and a sapphire case-back with anti-glare treatment on the inside.

The sapphire crystal case-back allows to admire the view of movement decorations (“Côtes de Genève”, circular graining, bevelling, polishing and engraving) entirely performed by hand, like all Blancpain movements, in keeping with the noblest traditions of Haute Horlogerie. The eight timepieces also feature a platinum oscillating weight made exclusively for the Apotheosis Temporis.

Constituting an objet d’art in its own right, a splendid lacquered wooden piece of furniture with an exquisitely marquetry-worked Macassar ebony cabinet has been lovingly crafted by a skilled artisan to host the eight Apotheosis Temporis models. This precious work of art features storage areas for the eight complications equipped with a rotating motor to ensure continuous winding of the watches.

NOVELTIES 1990 -2006

BREITLING for Bentley Mulliner Tourbillon Chronograph

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Launched in 2005, the BREITLING for Bentley Mulliner Tourbillon Chronograph is an extraordinary timepiece that embodies a blend of technology and tradition.The Mulliner Tourbillon chronograph is also a rare and indeed extremely rare model, since only a few pieces made each year.

Behind the closed doors of the prestigious Mulliner workshop at the Bentley factory in Crewe, a hundred or so craftsmen and technicians lavish the utmost care on fulfilling the most specific wishes of Bentley owners.

While exclusivity comes at a price, it also brings its share of privileges, since each Mulliner Tourbillon is customized by its future owner. According to his personal preferences, he can choose the type of case – in platinum or in yellow, rose or white gold – the dial colour or the exact shade of the crocodile leather strap. Even the precious wood decoration on the back of the watch comes in a choice of six types of veneer.
This masterpiece also has an exceptional heart in the shape of hand-wound Breitling Caliber 18B, a Tourbillon chronograph movement exclusive to “ Breitling for Bentley ”. The tourbillon is a sophisticated mechanism constituting one of the most ingenious mechanical watch complications: the balance, balance-spring and escapement are contained within a carriage spinning on its axis, a construction which compensates for the variations in rate that occur when a watch is in a vertical position.

This is not the only special feature of this mechanism: its “30-second ” type chronograph mechanism is distinguished by its central hand revolving around the dial in half a minute instead of the usual 60 seconds; this apparently surprising configuration enables extremely precise read-off for the fractions of a second, in this case 1/6ths. It is also endowed with a 15-minute totalizer and a pointer-type date display.

Each automobile that emerges from the Mulliner workshops is unique… and such is also true of each Mulliner Tourbillon, thus guaranteeing its owner the certainty that he will never see an identical watch. Each hour-marker on the dial is fashioned from natural hand-crafted mother-of-pearl.

Both literally and figuratively, each Mulliner Tourbillon carries the hallmark of its owner, including his initials engraved on one of the movement bridges. Protected by a sapphire crystal, the precious wooden ring is available in the same shades and veneers as the Bentley Mulliner trim: burr walnut, dark stained burr walnut, madrona, birds eye maple, burr oak, olive ash.
The countless ways of personalising a Mulliner Tourbillon chronograph are directly inspired by those offered by the Bentley Mulliner workshops in Crewe.

Technical details

Model: Mulliner Tourbillon chronograph

Movement 
Mechanical hand-wound Breitling Caliber 18M, Tourbillon regulating system, COSC-certified chronometer

Functions 
Hours, minutes, seconds, pointer-type date display, 30-second chronograph functions with hand sweeping the dial in half a minute (providing 1/6th of a second display), 15-minute totalizer, rotation pinion bezel with variable tachometer (circular slide rule)

Case 
Platinum, 750 (18K) yellow, rose or white gold
Domed antiglare sapphire crystal
Back with precious wood surround in a choice of six veneers to match those
used by Bentley
Water-resistant to 100 m

Dial 
A choice of colour, hand-cut mother-of-pearl hour markers

Bracelet/Strap 
Crocodile strap (in a choice of colours) or metal bracelet

NOVELTIES 1990 -2006

Rolex Cellini Prince Collection, Edition 2005 – The Rolex Watch with Sapphire Crystal Case Back

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It is almost impossible to find an original Rolex watch with a transparent crystal (sapphire or mineral) case-back. In general, all flagship watch models from the legendary Swiss watch manufacture feature solid metal case back whereas other luxury watch brands provide sapphire crystal case back for their watches so that the owner can admire the beauty of mechanical movement beating inside.

Many people believe that Rolex never produced watches with  transparent glass case back. But it is not the truth. To confirm this,  let us go through the details of a watch model named Cellini Prince.

Introduced in 2005, the Cellini Prince watch features an in house fitted sapphire crystal case back.

Origins of this watch can be traced back to roaring 20s. In 1928, Rolex created the Prince, which achieved great success and earned a place in horological history for its chronometric precision.  This Art Deco inspired rectangular timepiece was a popular dress watch during its time. However, Rolex ceased the production of  Prince watch models in the late 1940s.

With its avant-garde rectangular shape and the outstanding performance of its movement, the Prince is a watch of distinction. The unique positioning of the hands on two separate counters, one for hours and minutes and the other for seconds, was patented by Rolex. In 2005, Rolex re-launched the Prince watch collection in four different models with in the Cellini collection.

The Rolex Prince collection reflects the art of watchmaking at its best as much as design in its purest sense. It is both a precise mechanical instrument and an achievement in aesthetics. It exemplifies aesthetic consistency among the movement, case and dial. Born of a team effort bringing together Rolex’s world-class designers and technical experts specialising in the movement, case and dial, it meets the demands of exquisite beauty and optimal performance.

Unfortunately, in 2015, production of the Cellini Prince watch was ceased by Rolex. The new generation models available in the market belong to the Cellini Prince collection introduced in 2005 and produced till 2015.

This Prince watch introduced in 2005 houses a manual-wound mechanical movement – the 7040 calibre – specially developed and manufactured by Rolex. Rectangular in shape, it uses all the space to ensure precision and performance and to give free rein to the decoration of the bridges with designs identical to those on the dial. The movement is equipped with a new shock-absorbing bearing, the Paraflex, an essential component for the reliability of the product. COSC-certified as a Swiss chronometer, it features a 72-hour power reserve.

On the dial, hours and minutes are displayed separately above the seconds. The guilloche decoration on each timepiece requires high technology and a redefinition of the art of watch decoration. Guilloche decoration is an art and will always remain an art. The various patterns – “godron”, “clou de Paris” and “rayon flammé de la gloire” – each give the dial a unique look.
Crafted from gold (Models available in 18 ct yellow, white or Everose gold), the rectangular shaped case looks like a fuselage. For the first time, a Rolex movement is on show. A transparent caseback reveals a guilloche decoration on the movement echoing that on the dial. The leather strap has been fitted with a gold butterfly clasp, giving the watch perfect balance.

Featured Models

  • The Rolex Prince Ref. 5441/9: In 18 ct white gold features a silver “godron” dial, two displays, Roman numerals and simple markings.
  • The Rolex Prince Ref. 5440/8 : In 18 ct yellow gold features a champagne “clou de Paris” dial, two displays, Roman numerals on the hours and minutes display and Arabic numerals on the seconds display.
  • The Rolex Prince Ref. 5442/5: In 18 ct Everose gold features a black and pink “rayon flammé de la gloire” dial, and Arabic numerals on both displays which join in the centre.
  • The Rolex Prince Ref. 5443/9: In 18 ct white gold features a black and silver “rayon flammé de la gloire” dial, two displays, Arabic numerals, simple markings and red minute markings.

Technical details

  • Movement: Calibre 7040, Mechanical, manually wound
  • Power reserve: 72 hours
  • Oscillator Frequency : 4 Hz (28,800 beats/hour), hairspring with a Breguet overcoil
  • Chronometer COSC certification
  • Style: Rectangular
  • Materials: 18 ct yellow gold, white or Everose gold
  • Bracelet: Leather strap with 18 ct gold butterfly clasp
NOVELTIES 1990 -2006

deLacour Calibre bi-tourbillon

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Introduced by deLacour in 2005, this Grande Complication watch, each of which is unique, was developed in association with world renowned watchmaker Christophe Claret. This mechanism represents a genuine technical feat and incorporates two world premières. In addition to its flying bi-tourbillon mechanisms, this watch features an original dual time-zone display, a moon-phase indication, as well as an exclusive module that sends a shooting star gliding swiftly over the moonphase.

Technical details
Movement
Mechanical, DC Calibre 297, shaped plate, 40 x 33 mm
Flying bi-tourbillons (one turning to the left, the other to the right), driven by a differential gearing system, 21’600 vph, central ball-bearing mechanism, 78 jewels
Personalised motifs

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT (with instant date jump device), moon phase,
100-hour power reserve

Case
750 (18K) gold or platinum
Sapphire crystal and back

Dial
750 (18K) gold or platinum
2 gold cartouches”with built-in loupes for the hours
Seconds on the tourbillons at 5 and 7 o’clock
Moon phase at 12 o’clock
“Shooting star” passing by the moon-phase display every 6 minutes

Strap
Hand-sewn crocodile leather

NOVELTIES 1990 -2006

Blancpain Villeret Ladies’ Perpetual Calendar with Calibre 5621 – The World’s Thinnest Perpetual Calendar

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Introduced in 2006, the Blancpain Villeret Ladies’ Ultra Slim Perpetual Calendar is the thinnest perpetual calendar wristwatch ever made.

The creation of a complicated women’s watch presents a peculiar challenge. Virtually all wristwatch complications were conceived and the traditional design approaches developed in the setting of pocket watches.

Many collectors today take for granted the enormous barriers confronted and crossed by master watchmakers who have taken complications imagined in the relatively large scale of a pocket watch and transformed them to exist in the diminutive space of a wristwatch. Imagine then the new difficulties of going even further down the scale of miniaturization to adapt complicated movements to the further reduced size of a women’s watch.

The perpetual calendar is perhaps the most useful of all complications. Collectors the world over aspire to owning such a calendar that always shows the correct date, precisely accounting for the vexing differences in the length of months, including leap years, introduced by Julius Caesar and modified by Pope Gregory XIII for our modern calendar.

Blancpain’s master watchmakers have taken this most practical of complications and brought it into the world of ladies’ watch dimensions. In so doing they have not only righted an industry tendency to deprive women of a core complication, but they have also achieved a world record in the process: the world’s thinnest perpetual calendar watch.

Equipped with the Blancpain Calibre 5621 hand-wound mechanical movement, this Perpetual Calendar watch for women indicates the day date, month and moon phases.

Made of 18 carat white gold, the Blancpain Villeret Ladies’ Ultra Slim Perpetual Calendar watch (reference 6156-1542-55) has a case diameter of 34mm and thickness of 6.76 mm. Fitted with sapphire crystals on front and back sides of the case, the watch offers a water resistance of 30 meters.

The manual-winding mechanical movement is capable of providing 40-hour power reserve once fully wound. Boasting an Opaline dial, the Blancpain Villeret Ladies’ Ultra Slim Perpetual Calendar watch was a limited edition of 20 pieces.

NOVELTIES 1990 -2006

Vacheron Constantin Saint-Gervais Grande Complication Watch

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A tribute to the Cabinotiers established in the historical Saint-Gervais district, the cradle of grand traditional Geneva watchmaking, this creation perpetuates the enlightened and innovative approach adopted by the pioneers of which Vacheron Constantin is a direct descendant. Close to the brand’s historical headquarters located “En l’Ile” on the banks of the Rhône river, from the mid-18th onwards the Saint-Gervais district was home to the watchmakers and craftsmen working under the rooftops in order to find the silence they required and to enjoy the best possible light.
Together, they constituted the prestigious Geneva “fabrique”. The Saint-Gervais commemorative series is a sparkling homage, 250 years later, to this fertile breeding ground and to the skilled craftsmen mastering the subtle gear-trains and the complicated mechanisms on which Vacheron Constantin has built its reputation. This exceptional creation serves to prove that their descendants are still worthy of their legacy and would not disappoint them in any way.
The various functions clothed in the 44 mm case in 950 platinum call for 410 parts driving the hour and minute displays, small seconds at 6 o’clock, along with a tourbillon device. Calibre 2250 also incorporates a perpetual calendar indicating the day, the date, the month and the leap year. The movement is powered by four barrels, stacked in pairs and providing a total power reserve of 250 hours: the reserve is visible on the dial by double 125-hour segment indications, each winding down in turn. The power-reserve mechanism driven by the four barrels is patented.
The ethereal, finely worked and extremely precise tourbillon is a classic, revolving once a minute. It is positioned at 6 o’clock in the traditional small seconds position. Optimised by the design-engineers of the brand’s Research / Development department based in Le Sentier (Vallée de Joux), the perpetual calendar displays its indications using the blued hands of the three day, month and date subdials respectively placed at 10, 12 and 2 o’clock. The discreet leap-year display appears through an aperture at 1 o’clock.
In addition to the gold hour and minute hands, two additional blued steel hands can be seen running over the silvered dial in engine-turned gold, each sweeping across a segment at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock. Their function is completely original, since they each indicate the power-reserve of barrels, which successively wind down one after the other.

Its four barrels provide a real and guaranteed power reserve of 250 hours, guaranteeing the smooth and undiminished operation of the movement and the functions. The development department has thus pushed existing limits and set the standard higher than ever before, especially in light of the fact that a comfortable additional margin guarantees that optimal efficiency has been duly verified. Nonetheless, for symbolic reasons, the brand has preferred to officially keep to 250 hours, the natural choice for this anniversary year.

As in all Vacheron Constantin watches, the high level of technical sophistication detracts nothing from the most accomplished forms of aesthetic expression. All the movement parts have thus been treated and decorated with meticulous care and in accordance with the uncompromising criteria of the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. The Saint-Gervais model is made in a limited series of 55.

Technical details

Movement
Calibre 2250 – 410 parts – 4 barrels providing a 250-hour power reserve
Energy: Mechanical, hand-winding
Regulating organs: Breguet overcoil balance-spring, balance with screws
Frequency: 2.5Hz (18,000 vph)
Power reserve: 250 hours
Jewelling: 33 jewels

Indications & functions :-
Hours and minutes
Seconds at 6 o’clock
“Tourbillon” device
Independent double power reserve
Perpetual calendar: Day, date, month and leap years

Other characteristics:-
Winding stem: 2 positions
Perpetual calendar adjustment: using 3 correctors housed along the case

Main dimensions:-
Caging diameter:28.50mm
Total diameter: 32.0mm
Total thickness:8.60mm

Case
Material: 950 platinum
Diameter and thickness: 44mm, 14.6 mm
Inter-horn width: 22mm at the strap attachment
Shape and construction: round 3 parts, screw-on bezel
Case-back: secured with screws, with inset crystal
Crystals: sapphire, glareproofed on the inner face, mounted on a joint
Finishing: polished case, fine knurling on the bezel and case-back “250th anniversary” type soldered lugs
Water-resistant to 30 metres.

Dial
Material: 18-carat gold
Light silvered finishing, hand-guilloché “ 250th anniversary” motif, 18-carat gold appliques
Hours and minutes hands in rhodium-finished 18-carat gold, fan-shaped, inspired by a 1926 vintage model
Seconds hand in rhodium-finished 18-carat gold, baton-shaped, on tourbillon carriage
Subdials in flame-blued steel, dagger-shaped

Strap
Hand-sewn alligator leather with a silky satin finish
Clasp: Folding clasp, 18-carat gold

Edition
“Saint-Gervais” is a limited edition of 55, crafted in 950 platinum and each individually numbered.

NOVELTIES 1990 -2006

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 4936

In 2005, Patek Philippe launched a ladies’ version of its famous Annual Calendar watch. This feminine model in 18K gold (Ref. 4936) features a mother-of-pearl dial and diamond-studded case.

Introduced in 1996, the first Patek Philippe Annual Calendar watch (Ref. 5035) was originally designed for men. Featuring a 37mm case and a patented movement, it was preferred by women, thanks to its functionality, convenience and handsome proportions.

In 2005, to address women’s increasing interest in mechanical masterpieces, Patek Philippe developed this complication watch. It was released along with Ref. 5146, an evolution of men’s annual calendar watch.

The Ref. 4936 features a 37 mm case, the same as the Ref. 5035 Annual Calendar watch introduced in 1996.

Available in 18K yellow or white gold, the bezel of the Ref. 4936 is set with 156 flawless rare white Top Wesselton diamonds. Two different-sized diamonds are perfectly aligned, requiring the extraordinary skills of the master jeweler.

The dials of this Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ladies watch are crafted from authentic mother-of-pearl – white for the yellow gold case and black Tahitian mother-of-pearl for the white gold model.

The subsidiary dials for the day of the week and month are also made of genuine mother-of-pearl encircled by gold rings for extra sparkle. Time is indicated with applied gold Roman numerals and luminescent, gold feuille (leaf-shaped) hands.

The phases of the moon are shown in a crescent window above the date aperture at 6o’clock. The crown glistens with 14 diamonds set within its perimeter for a smooth finish so it is comfortable against the wrist. The hand-stitched alligator strap closes with an 18K gold buckle in two tones: matte champagne for yellow gold and luminous gray with white gold.

The self-winding movement can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back; like all mechanical movements crafted by Patek Philippe, it is marked with the coveted Geneva Seal.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Ref. 4936 J/G

Movement
Caliber 315 S QA LU
Self-winding mechanical movement, Annual Calendar, moon-phase display and sweep seconds
Diameter: 30 mm
Height: 5.22 mm
Number of parts: 328
Number of jewels: 34
Power reserve: Min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
Rotor: 21K gold central rotor, unidirectional winding
Balance: Gyromax
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour
Balance spring: Flat

Two-position crown
– Pulled out: to set time
– Pushed in: to wind watch

Displays
Hours, minutes, sweep seconds
Subsidiary dials:
– Days between 9 and 10 o’clock, months between 2 and 3 o’clock
Apertures:
– Moon phase at 6 o’clock
– Date at 6 o’clock

Corrector button
At 10 o’clock: day-of-week correction
At 2 o’clock: month correction
At 4 o’clock: date and month correction
At 8 o’clock: moon-phase correction

Hallmark
Geneva Seal

Case
18K yellow or white gold
Diameter: 37 mm
Thickness: 11.30 mm
Width between lugs: 19 mm
Screwed sapphire-crystal case back and water-resistant crown
Water resistant to 25 meters

Dial
White mother-of-pearl for yellow gold model
Black Tahitian mother-of-pearl for white gold model
Eleven applied Roman numerals with luminescent coating, railway-track minute scale
Feuille (leaf-shaped) hands in 18K yellow or white gold with luminescent coating (Superluminova)

Subsidiary dials
Recessed with circular guilloche pattern encircled by ring in 18K yellow or white gold
Frosted feuille (leaf-shaped) hands in 18K yellow or white gold

Strap
Hand-stitched alligator, with 14 mm prong buckle in 18K yellow or white gold. Matte champagne strap for yellow gold model and glossy gray for white gold model

Precious stones

Case: 78 flawless rare white Top Wesselton round diamonds, full cut, 1.10mm in diameter and 78 flawless rare white Top Wesselton round diamonds, full cut, 1.20 mm in diameter totaling about 0.87 carats

Crown: 18K rose or white gold, set with 14 flawless rare white Top Wesselton round diamonds, full cut, 1.10 mm in diameter totaling about 0.07carats