MAURICE LACROIX Masterpiece Flyback Annuaire – Split-Seconds Chronograph with Annual Calendar

Introduced in 2000 by Swiss watch brand MAURICE LACROIX, this high complication watch from the prestigious Masterpiece collection combines a split-seconds chronograph and annual calendar. The steel case has a pink gold bezel and is fitted with a solid silver dial pierced with the brand’s exclusive large date window at 12 o’clock and the month window between 4 and 5. The hand-decorated movement is visible through the transparent back.

MAURICE LACROIX Masterpiece Flyback Annuaire - Split-Seconds Chronograph with Annual Calendar

Technical details

Movement
Automatic ML 15, based on an ETA 2892-A2 calibre
Hand-decorated, 49 jewels, blued steel screws

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds
Split-seconds chronograph, annual calendar

Case
Stainless steel and 750 (18K) pink gold
Sapphire crystal, screw-down sapphire back
Water-resistant to 50 m

Dial
925 silver
30-minute and 12-hour chronograph counters, small seconds
Large day window and month window

Strap
Louisiana crocodile leather

Other versions
Steel or 750 (18K) pink gold case, steel bracelet

Patek Philippe Star Caliber 2000

Unveiled in 2000, the Patek Philippe Star Caliber is a dual faced grand complication pocket watch. Created to mark the arrival of the third millennium, this spectacular timepiece incorporates 21 complications.

The Star Caliber 2000 is the result of eight years of meticulous research and development by Patek Philippe. Incorporating six patented innovations, it is the only pocket watch ever to reproduce exactly the celebrated chimes of the Westminster clock tower in London.

Patek Philippe Star Caliber 2000

Its “running” equation of time, synchronized with the perpetual calendar, enables the reading of local mean time and true solar time. The indications of sunrise and sunset, the celestial chart and the moon-phases also accord their movements with the perpetual calendar, whose innovations include a rapid correction feature, which simultaneously adjusts all indications to the perpetual calendar date. A further distinction is the ingenious system for opening the two covers by means of the pendant at three o’clock.

Comprised of more than 1,000 parts, Star Caliber is one of the most complex manually wound watch movements ever made. It is the third most complicated Patek Philippe watch after the Calibre 89 and the Henry Graves Super complication.

Patek Philippe created this masterpiece in three types of gold – yellow, white and rose gold – as well as in platinum. It has two dial sides: Solar / Time and Lunar / Celestial.

Patek Philippe Star Caliber 2000

In the Solar / Time dial side, the Star Caliber 2000 displays Time (Hours, minutes, seconds), Power reserves of the movement and the chime, Date, Year, Day of the week, Month, Season, Sunrise and sunset, 24-hour day/night display and Running equation of time.

In the Lunar / Celestial Side, it offers Sky chart, Time of meridian passage by Sirius, Lunar orbit, Moon phases and Time of meridian passage by the moon.

Technical details

Name of the timepiece: Patek Philippe Star Caliber 2000

Movement
Star Caliber
Manual winding
Two barrels (movement and chiming mechanism) with bidirectional winding
Escapement: Swiss lever escapement
Balance: Screw balance
Balance spring: Breguet
Power reserve of movement: 30 hours, barrel limited to 4 revolutions
Power reserve of chime: 24 hours when set to strike in passing (without operation of the minute repeater), barrel limited to 5 revolutions
Diameter: 55.40 mm
Height: 21.03 mm
Weight: 250 g

Displays

Solar / Time Side

Hours, minutes, seconds
Power-reserve indicator for the movement
Power-reserve indicator for the chime
Date
Year
Day of the week
Month
Season
Sunrise and sunset
24-hour day/night display
Running equation of time

Lunar / Celestial Side

Sky chart
Time of meridian passage by Sirius
Lunar orbit
Moon phases
Time of meridian passage by the moon

Number of parts of the movement

1118, of which
135 wheels
33 bridges
336 screws
292 pins
73 springs
172 other mechanical components
54 jewels
3 ball bearings
1 dial
11 hands
8 discs

Case
Material: 750 yellow, white, or rose gold or 950 platinum
Diameter: 73.20 mm
Height: 32.30 mm
Weight of gold case: 280 g
Weight of platinum case: 364 g

Dial
Enamel

Functions

In addition to displaying mean solar time in hours, minutes and seconds, the Star Caliber 2000 provides 21 additional indications.

Timekeeping functions
– Running equation of time
– Time of sunrise
– Time of sunset
– 24-hour day/night display with passage of the sun

Calendar functions
– Perpetual calendar
– Date
– Leap year cycle
– Day of the week
– Month
– Season

Astronomical functions
– Sky chart

Lunar functions
– Lunar orbit
– Moon phases

Other functions
– Power-reserve indicator for the movement
– Power-reserve indicator for the chime
– Bidirectional winding
– Precision adjustment of movement from the outside
– Pendant push button for opening sprung covers

Chiming functions
– Westminster chime in passing on five gongs
– Minute repetition on five gongs
– Chime in passing is blocked when mainspring is run down

Patents

(1) Pièce d’horlogerie à carillon: Timepiece with chime

A Grande Sonnerie automatically sounds the hours and quarter-hours in passing and the minutes on demand with tiny hammers that strike precision gongs. Pocket watches with the so-called “Westminster Chime” so far have not been capable of playing the original melody as it peals from the clock tower of the Houses of Parliament in London. Even the well-known designs with four quarter racks play an incorrect sequence of tones when the same gong must be struck twice in succession.

Now, with a mechanism patented for the Star Caliber 2000, Patek Philippe has succeeded in building the chime for a pocket watch that faithfully reproduces the Westminster melody and can also correctly strike two identical tones in immediate succession.

(2) Mouvement d’horlogerie à quantième perpétuel comportant un mécanisme à équation de temps avec affichage: Timepiece movement with perpetual calendar incorporating an equation-of-time mechanism with display

At any given moment, so-called mean solar time deviates by a few minutes from true, or apparent, solar time. This difference is referred to as the equation of time. It varies from day to day and in mechanical watches can be displayed with the aid of a special cam mechanism.

If the cam for the equation of time is not synchronized with the calendar, the deviation between actual time and displayed time will grow progressively. This is also the case when the watch is reset to the correct date after having been left unwound for a longer period of time.

To correct such a deviation, a watchmaker must expend considerable effort to disassemble the watch and realign the cam that controls the equation of time to the correct date. In the design patented by Patek Philippe, however, the cam is controlled directly by the perpetual calendar mechanism. Thus, the display of the equation of time always corresponds to the current date.

(3) Mécanisme de lever et coucher du soleil destiné à équiper un mouvement d’horlogerie à quantième: Sunrise and sunset mechanism intended for a calendar watch movement

The sunrise and sunset times at a specific location depend on the date, and the respective displays are controlled by cams. If these cams are not synchronized with the calendar, the deviation between actual and displayed sunrise and sunset times will grow progressively. This is also the case when the watch is reset to the correct date after having been left unwound for a longer period of time.

To correct such a deviation, a watchmaker must expend considerable effort to disassemble the watch and realign the cams that control the display of sunrise and sunset times to the correct date. In the design patented by Patek Philippe, however, the cams are controlled directly by the perpetual calendar mechanism. Thus, the times displayed always correspond to the current date.

(4) Mécanisme additionel de représentation astronomique pour pièces d’horlogerie: Supplementary astronomical display mechanism for timepieces

In conventional astronomical displays, the moon phases are indicated on a small subsidiary dial and a separate hand indicates lunation. If integrated in the celestial dial, these displays typically cover a significant portion of the sky chart.

The refined design developed for the Star Caliber 2000, however, makes it possible to display the moon phases and the lunar orbit in a manner which only marginally affects the size of the sky chart so that many more stars can be depicted than is the case with customary designs for pocket watches of a comparable format.

(5) Rapid calendar correction

Owners of watches with perpetual calendars know how cumbersome it can be to set the display to the correct date when the movement has been left unwound for a long period of time. Usually, this requires pushing several buttons in the case – often dozens or even hundreds of times, depending on how long the watch remained unwound.

This awkward procedure has been considerably simplified by the patented rapid correction feature of the Star Caliber 2000. With one single push of the rapid corrector slide, the owner can perform a correction of nearly one month. And because of the extensive synchronization concept, the running equation of time as well as the sunrise and sunset times are corrected automatically. Once the date is set, only two more adjustments are required: the day of the week and the time.

(6) Pièce d’horlogerie, notamment montre de poche, munie d’un couvercle sur chaque face: Timepiece, especially pocket watch, with sprung covers on both sides

Ordinary pocket watches with front and back sprung covers generally have a push button inside the crown or a slide in the case for opening the covers. In contrast, the Star Caliber 2000 has a bow with a Calatrava cross engraved on one side; it can be pushed in and rotated by 180°. Depending on the direction in which the Calatrava cross is facing, the front or back sprung cover will open when the push button in the winding crown is pressed.

This sophisticated and complex mechanism is fully integrated in the bow. Its design is very elegant and aesthetic, and it also has symbolic meaning: 150 years ago, Patek Philippe co-founder Adrien Philippe invented a keyless mechanism for winding a movement with a crown in the bow.

Since its first one was granted in 1845 (invention of the crown for winding the movement and setting the hands), Patek Philippe has received some 70 patents.

Blancpain Automatic Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Calibre 5625 – The World’s First Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon with 8-Day Power Reserve (2000)

As it created the world’s first automatic 8-day power reserve tourbillon, a torch was lit showing the way for a new “natural” combination – bringing the practicality of a perpetual calendar to the tourbillon. There is perhaps no higher calling for a tourbillon, whose rotation evens out gravitational errors, than a calendar which never needs adjustment, correctly accounting for the variation in the length of months in the Gregorian calendar.

Although rare examples of tourbillon/perpetual calendar wristwatches have existed, they have all suffered from one, nearly insurmountable inconvenience: they have all been manual winding watches. It is almost inevitable that a precious timepiece of this sophistication will not be worn every day, imposing the burden, every time the watch is allowed to run down, of resetting a complex calendar mechanism.


Here the towering difference between Blancpain’s tourbillon base movement and the rest of the watchmaking world revealed itself. In its pioneering conception of the world’s first automatic tourbillon, Blancpain had created the perfect mate for a complex calendar. Even if the automatic tourbillon perpetual calendar watch were not worn, the easy option of placing the watch in a winder to keep it running is available.

In this way, the owner can ensure that the calendar will always be correct and the watch will always be ready to wear. The Blancpain innovation has created the most practical tourbillon perpetual calendar in the world.

The implementation of this pioneering concept did not come easily however Blancpain’s watchmakers faced significant challenges in integrating a perpetual calendar mechanism with its complex system of cams and wheels, all of which must be placed under the dial, with the flying tourbillon assembly, which is meant to be visible through the dial. Their painstaking efforts to meld these components together in a visually pleasing and balanced way were rewarded with the final result.

Jaeger-Lecoultre Reverso Quantième Perpétuel

Introduced in 2000, this pink gold Large Size Reverso with complications was produced in a limited series of 500 pieces.  This veritable masterpiece of complicated watchmaking is equipped with a handmade and decorated Jaeger-LeCoultre 855 calibre.

This was the sixth and final version of the pink gold Large Size Reverso with complications series made by Jaeger-Lecoultre. First dial of this Reverso timepiece displays hours, minutes, small seconds, year/leap year and has a day/night window. The other side displays retrograde date, day, month and moon phase.

Jaeger-Lecoultre Reverso Quantième Perpétuel in pink gold

Technical details

Movement
Hand-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre 855 calibre, 276 pieces
Hand-manufactured and decorated

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds
Perpetual calendar

Case
750 (18K) pink gold

Dial
Engine-turned solid silver
Recto: hours, minutes, small seconds, year/leap year display, day/night window
Verso: perpetual calendar (retrograde date/day/month/moon phase)

Strap
Black crocodile with 750 (18K) pink gold folding clasp

AUGUSTE REYMOND Charleston Automatic

Launched by Auguste Reymond in 2000 to celebrate the tenth anniversary of its Charleston collection, this highly original version has a steel case with a cambered sapphire crystal and a matching bracelet with a double-snap safety clasp.

The ETA 2671 automatic movement is visible through the transparent back. Its lacquered white dial has Roman numerals and a window at 6’o clock to display date.

UGUSTE REYMOND Charleston Automatic watch in steel with ETA 2671 movement

Technical details

Model: AUGUSTE REYMOND Charleston Automatic

Movement
Automatic, ETA 2671

Functions
Hours, minutes, date

Case
Steel
Sapphire crystal
Transparent back
Water-resistant to 30 m

Dial
Lacquered white with Roman numerals

Strap
Steel with double-snap safety clasp

Links

Jaeger-Lecoultre Master Date or gris

Introduced in 2000, this timepiece is a reborn and contemporary version of Master Date, one of the famous models belonging to the Master Control 1000 hours collection. This model comes in a white gold case with a hinged back to reveal the superb hand-made, hand-decorated automatic movement. The distinctive indicator which displays the date, day and month appears on a grey rhodium-plated sunray dial matching the watch’s overall colour.

Jaeger-Lecoultre Master Date or gris

Technical details

Movement
Jaeger-LeCoultre 891/447 automatic calibre
Segment of rotor in 22K pink gold
Hand-decorated

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day and month

Case
750 (18K) white gold
Hinged back, water-resistant to 50 m

Dial
Grey rhodium with sunray decoration
Date indicator on the rim
Day and month windows, small second at 6 o’clock

Strap
Brown crocodile with 750 (18K) white gold folding clasp

PATEK PHILIPPE Heure Universelle Ref. 5110

Introduced in 2000, this exceptional mechanical watch from PATEK PHILIPPE is equipped with an innovative Universal Time complication that simultaneously displays local time and the time in the world’s 24 time zones.

Fitted with an original mechanism with two patents registered, the PATEK PHILIPPE World Time Ref. 5110 watch has the double advantage of being user-friendly and easy to read. The dial comprises two disks, one for the names of 24 cities, the other for 24 hours with a day and night indicator. The engine-turned opaline inner dial boasts yellow gold applique hour markers.

PATEK PHILIPPE Heure Universelle Ref. 5110
PATEK PHILIPPE Heure Universelle Yellow Gold Ref. 5110J

Carrying Poinçon de Genève certification, the automatic 240/188 calibre features a mini rotor in 22-carat gold. The 18 carat yellow gold case, which is fitted sapphire crystal case back, is water-resistant to 25 m.

The PATEK PHILIPPE Heure Universelle (world time) watch is also available in 750 (18K) pink or white gold and 950 platinum versions.

Technical details

Model: PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5110 – Heure Universelle/World Time

Versions
Ref. 5110J: Yellow gold
Ref. 5110G: White gold
Ref. 5110P: Platinum

Movement
Automatic, 240/188 calibre, mini rotor in 22-carat gold
Poinçon de Genève

Functions
Hours, minutes
Universal time (local + 24 time-zones simultaneously)

Case
750 (18K) yellow gold
Sapphire back and crystal
Water-resistant to 25 m

Dial
Engine-turned opaline centre, with yellow gold applique hour markers

Strap
Hand-sewn crocodile leather, with 750 (18K) yellow gold folding clasp

Other versions
750 (18K) pink or white gold
950 platinum, set with a diamond between the attachments

BLANCPAIN Ultra-plate Demi-savonnette

Introduced in 2000 by Blancpain, the Ultra-plate Demi-savonnette features an elegant gold half-hunter case that houses an ultra-thin movement. This remarkable timepiece is highly functional and enriched with the highest aesthetic values.

BLANCPAIN Ultra-plate Demi-savonnette

The hand wound movement has its bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève and this magnificent movement can be seen through the transparent sapphire crystal back. The Opaline dial features Roman numerals and Leaf hands for hour and minute indications.

The BLANCPAIN Ultra-plate Demi-savonnette watch was produced in 750 (18K) red and white gold versions.

Technical details

Model: BLANCPAIN Ultra-plate Demi-savonnette

Movement
Hand-wound, 21, 9”’ calibre, 1.72 mm thick, 132 components, 18 rubies
Bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève
40-hour power reserve

Functions
Hours, minutes

Case
750 (18K) red gold
Cambered anti-glare sapphire crystal
Anti-glare sapphire back with 750 (18K) gold cover
Water-resistant to 30 m

Dial
Opaline with Roman numerals
Leaf hands

Strap
Crocodile leather

Other versions
750 (18K) white gold

Andersen Geneve Grande Jour et Nuit, Edition 2000

Introduced in 2000, five years after the creation of the first Jour et Nuit created by Svend Andersen, this models is a larger version of this very original model with its unique dial. The hour and minute displays are separate.

At the end of each revolution around the minute sub-dial, the hour jumps ahead on one of the two arcs of the circle. These show the hours of the day and night and are indicated by hands decorated with the sun and moon respectively.

Andersen Geneve Grande Jour et Nuit, Edition 2000
This edition of Jour et Nuit line is equipped with a mechanical hand wound movement based on F. Piguet P15 pocket watch calibre. Crafted in 18 carat gold, this timepiece comes in limited series of 10 pieces a year.

Technical details

Model: Andersen Geneve Grande Jour et Nuit, Edition 2000

Movement
Hand-wound, built on an F. Piguet P15 pocket watch calibre
Ultra-thin, 20 rubies, Côtes de Genève, 40-hour power reserve

Function
Jumping hours on 24-hour cycle, minutes

Case
750 (18K) gold, Empire style, 42 mm in diameter

Dial
Engine-turned by hand with 750 (18K) gold decorations
Cambered sapphire crystal, flat sapphire back
Exterior arc (6 – 18), interior arc (18 – 6)
Blued steel hands decorated with 750 (18K) sun and moon

Strap   
Leather with gold buckle

Links

IWC Schaffhausen Portuguese Automatic 2000 Limited Edition

Launched in 2000, this elegant automatic wristwatch collection from the Schaffhausen manufactory houses large calibre automatic movement with an 8 1/2 day power reserve. Its winding system is operated by the brand’s own patented Pellaton device.

IWC Schaffhausen Portuguese Automatic 2000 Limited Edition

The IWC Portuguese Automatic 2000 was produced in limited edition: 1,000 in superfine steel, 750 in pink gold and 250 in platinum. The first 100 of each series were offered in sets in hardwood boxes.

Technical details

Model: IWC Schaffhausen Portuguese Automatic 2000 Limited Edition

Movement
Automatic
8.5 day power reserve (running monitored for 7 days)

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds

Case
38.2 x 7.2 mm
1,000 in superfine steel, 750 in 750 (18K) pink gold, 250 in platinum
Sapphire crystal and back

Dial
1,000 two-toned, black and silver, with rhodium-plated hands and numerals
750 in silver, with pink gold gilded hands and numerals
250 rhodium-plated with matching hands
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock

Bracelet
Leather

Chopard L.U.C. Quattro

Introduced in 2000, the L.U.C. Quattro houses a hand-wound mechanical movement is fitted with a quadruple barrel to give it an exceptional 10-day power reserve. This is indicated at 12 o’clock, with the date and small seconds on a sub-dial at 6 o’clock. The solid gold dial matches the case. This unique timepiece is available in white, yellow or pink gold.

Chopard L.U.C. Quattro hand-wound watch white gold case

Technical details

Model: Chopard L.U.C. Quattro

Movement
Hand-wound L.U.C. 1.98, 12 1/2”’ 28,800 v/h, 39 rubies
Quadruple barrel (2 superposed double barrels)
Poinçon de Genève
9 days power reserve on the indicator

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, stop second, date
COSC certified chronometer

Case
750 (18K) white gold
Sapphire crystal, screw-down sapphire back

Dial
Engine-turned 750 (18K) white gold
750 (18K) gold applique hour markers and hands
Power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock
Date and small seconds indicator at 6 o’clock

Strap
Leather

Other versions
750 (18K) yellow or pink gold

BLANCPAIN Time Zone 2100

Launched in 2000 in a limited series of 333 pieces in white gold, the Blancpain 2100 has an elegant, sporty case that is water-resistant to 100 metres and houses a remarkably accurate automatic movement with a double time-zone function. The automatic 5L60 calibre offers 100-hour power reserve.

The highly legible silvered opaline dial features gold facetted applique hour markers and luminous hands. The second time-zone is shown on a 12-hour sub-dial with a day-night indicator.

BLANCPAIN Time Zone 2100

This timepiece also has a small seconds dial at 6’o clock and a date window at 3’o clock. The BLANCPAIN Time Zone 2100 is also available in red gold (limited series) and Steel (unlimited) versions.

Technical details

Model: BLANCPAIN Time Zone 2100

Movement
Automatic, 5L60, 111/2”’ calibre, 238 components, 31 rubies
100-hour power reserve

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Second time-zone

Case
750 (18K) white gold
Cambered anti-glare sapphire crystal
Screw-down crown
Water-resistant to 100 m

Dial
Silvered opaline with 750 (18K) gold facetted applique hour markers
Luminous hands
Second time-zone indicator, day-night indicator
Small seconds, date window

Strap
Crocodile leather

Other versions
Limited series of 333 pieces in red gold
Unlimited series in steel, with black dial and luminous Arabic numerals, on a steel bracelet, or barenia or crocodile strap

Patek Philippe Ref. 5100 “10 Jours” Limited Edition

Introduced in 2000, the Patek Philippe-5100/10 Jours timepiece houses a rectangular hand-wound 28-20/220 chronometer movement which boasts an exceptional 10-day power reserve. This  COSC certified chronometer collection was limited to 3,000 pieces, 2,700 in solid white gold and 300 in platinum.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5100/10 Jours Limited Edition watch

To celebrate the year 2000, Patek Philippe created a limited edition series of 3,000 watches, featuring an entirely new rectangular chronometer movement with a 10-day power reserve. The launch of this rectangular-shaped manually-wound caliber, 28-20/220 with small seconds and power reserve indications, constitutes a major event for watch enthusiasts and is a first in the history of fine watch making.

Inspired by a Patek Philippe movement from the 1930s, this new caliber with its coupled double barrel system has a power reserve with an exceptional 10-day capacity, a first in the world of watch making. To house this new movement, Patek Philippe has crafted an exclusive rectangular case, issued in a limited series of only 3,000 pieces: 1,500 in yellow gold, 750 in rose gold, 450 in white gold and 300 in platinum.

The case design of Ref. 5100 is based on the unique and extremely complex shape of a Patek Philippe timepiece dating back to 1958. As with all Patek Philippe timepieces, the movement and the case of each Ref. 5100 were engraved with an individual identification number based on the company´s 160-year-old register.

Its refined construction of the Patek Philippe 28-20/220 Caliber is reflected in the exceptional quality of the technical and decorative finish. Patek Philippe has added its own functional and aesthetic requirements to the 12 technical criteria of the Geneva Seal hallmark. All Patek Philippe mechanical movements have been awarded the Geneva Seal hallmark which is the highest official standard in the craft of watch making.

Some of the decorative elements are hidden at the very heart of the mechanism and will only ever be seen by a master watchmaker. The base plate and bridges are refined by highly detailed and fine workmanship. First, they are carefully trimmed by hand, in order to remove any residual material, which could potentially disturb the functioning of the mechanism. Then all the bridges are angled, chamfered, and polished. Their edges are decorated by hand with fine longitudinal strokes. Both sides of the base plate and the undersides of the bridges are finished with a circular-grained Perlage pattern, while the top sides of the bridges are decorated with the Côtes de Genève stripes.

As required by the Geneva Seal hallmark, all steel parts (such as springs, levers and setting levers) are chamfered and polished, while their edges and upper surfaces are hand-finished. The bridges and base plate are rhodium plated for durability and to prevent oxidation.

For aesthetic and practical purposes, the escape wheel and the seconds wheel are each fixed to an independent bridge. The gear train is also finished using the extreme care that Patek Philippe gives to all movement parts. Even the tiny spaces between the teeth of the steel wheels and pinions are polished by hand to reduce friction. This is done on a traditional hardwood grinding wheel.

The entire winding mechanism also undergoes special finishing operations. The teeth of the steel wheels, pinions, screw heads and slots are chamfered and polished, and the sinks of the screw recesses in the steel components and bridges are also polished.

To ensure the exceptional 10-day power reserve capacity, both the barrels must develop high power, which creates tension and therefore friction in the movement. To reduce this friction, no fewer than 29 rubies are placed at critical pivoting points in the movement. Thus the power stays more constant, allowing the movement to have a more stable and accurate running rate.

This movement is visually distinctive, because 9 of the 29 rubies are held in 18K gold chaton settings in their bridge pivoting points. The barrel bridge is engraved with the Patek Philippe name, the number of jewels (29) and the tested timing positions (5). All the engravings, including the Geneva Seal hallmark, are finely gilded – a reminder that supreme quality is best expressed through refined details.

The remarkable precision of the movement is certified by its individual official rating certificate exclusively reserved for movements bearing the Geneva Seal hallmark. This certificate is issued after three weeks of testing to guarantee the performance of the watch in five positions and at different temperatures. Created for the first time in 1996 for Patek Philippe by the Official Swiss Chronometer Bureau jointly with the Geneva Seal Institute, the certificate attests to the exceptional quality of this new movement.

The Patek Ref. 5100 watch can function 10 full days without needing to be rewound. This timepiece was inspired by an earlier “8-day” Patek Philippe movement.

Manually wound Caliber 28-20/220 features a double barrel with a size/ratio calculated for optimal performance. Both barrels are tightened simultaneously. A clutch system – a slipping spring fitted to the arbor of the first winding barrel – prevents over-winding the springs and blocking the winding mechanism when the maximum power reserve has been reached. The power reserve indicator is located at 12 o´clock on the dial.

Thanks to the ingenious system developed by Patek Philippe´s engineers, it takes relatively few winds of the crown (approximately 100) to power the 10-day reserve mechanism. Half a turn (180°) of the crown is sufficient to provide one hour´s capacity when in other watches a full turn is usually required for the same result.

Sculpted in 18K solid gold or platinum, the spectacular shape makes one think of a majestic manta ray. More than 188 different operations were required to achieve its highly complex original shape.

The extended edges of the bezel and the refined shape of its convex profile are inspired by Patek Philippe Ref. 2554, which belongs to the Patek Philippe Museum collection. Like the elegant historical piece from 1958, the crown is embossed with the Calatrava Cross and is entirely integrated into the profile of the case. A sapphire crystal back reveals the beauty of the 10-day movement.

Patek Ref. 5100 watches

Each case is combined with an individual dial color: silvery white for yellow gold, slate gray for rose gold, midnight blue for white gold and black for platinum.

The harmonious design of the dial complements the unusual case. The sub-dial indicating seconds is located at 6 o´clock and the 10-day power reserve indicator is positioned at 12 o´clock. Other distinctive features include 18K gold “Dauphine” hour and minute hands, Arabic numerals and hour markers that match the case color.

The crocodile strap has a traditional Patek Philippe buckle of solid 18K gold or platinum. The platinum case is distinguished from the white gold model by a flawless Top Wesselton diamond set discreetly between the lugs on the 6 o´clock side.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Ref. 5100 “10 Jours” Limited Edition

Editions

Ref. 5100J: 18K yellow gold case, silvery white dial, and black crocodile strap: 1,500 pieces
Ref. 5100R: 18K rose gold case, slate gray dial, and brown crocodile strap: 750 pieces
Ref. 5100G: 18K white gold case, midnight blue dial, and black crocodile strap: 450 pieces
Ref. 5100: Platinum case, black dial, and black crocodile strap: 300 pieces
Total limited production: 3,000 pieces only

Movement
Rectangular Caliber 28-20/220, manual winding chronometer with 10-day power reserve, power reserve indicator, and seconds.
Dimensions: 28 x 20 mm
Height: 5.05 mm
Number of parts: 175
Number of jewels: 29 rubies
Power reserve: 10 days (240 hours) guaranteed
Balance: Gyromax
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour
Balance spring: Flat

Certification
Exclusive certificate issued jointly by the Official Swiss Chronometer Bureau and the Geneva Seal Institute

Setting functions
Two-position winding crown: Pushed in for manual winding and pulled out for setting the time

Case
Case in 18K yellow, white or rose gold or in platinum
Dimensions: 33.90 x 46.00 mm
Height: 12.80 mm
Sapphire crystal case back
Water resistant to 25 meters

Indications
Hours and minutes
Seconds at 6 o´clock
10-day power reserve at 12 o´clock

Strap 
Crocodile

Frederique Constant Perpetual Heart Beat Day-Date

Introduced in 2000, this model from Heart Beat, with a window at 12 o’clock to reveal its skeleton balance, boasts a perpetual calendar and was this timepiece produced in limited series of 99 numbered pieces in white gold. Its metal-ringed sapphire dial indicates the date at 9 o’clock, the day at 3 o’clock, and the month and leap years at 6 o’clock. The movement, decorated with the Côtes de Genève pattern, is visible through the case back.

Technical details
Model: Perpetual Heart Beat Day-Date (limited series of 99 pieces)

Movement
Automatic FC-710, 11½ ”’, 28,800 V/h, 21 rubies, bridges with Côtes de Genève
42-hour power reserve

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar with 3 correctors

Case
750 (18K) white gold
Cambered sapphire crystal
Screw-down sapphire back
Water-resistant to 50 m
Individually numbered

Dial
Sapphire with an ultra-fine ring of metal
Date indicator at 9 o’clock, day at 3 o’clock, month-leap years at 6 o’clock
Heart-Beat display at 12 o’clock
Blued steel leaf hands

Strap
Louisiana crocodile, optional folding clasp

Other versions
750 (18K) yellow gold and 750 (18K) pink gold

DELANEAU Three Time Zones Chronographe

This exceptional feminine timepiece produced by Swiss watch brand DELANEAU displays the time in three time zones on three independent dials. Main movement is automatic, and it offers Chronograph and date functions. Two quartz movements are used to display secondary time zones.  This timepiece was produced in yellow gold, white gold and steel versions.

Technical details
Movement
Automatic main movement, quartz secondary movements

Function
Hours, minutes, seconds
Three time zones, chronograph, date

Case
750 (18K) yellow gold
Facetted sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 30 m

Dial
Mother-of-pearl
Date window

Bracelet
Black crocodile

Other Version
750 (18K) white gold or steel
Rhodium-plated or onyx dial
Different coloured straps

EPOS Tonneau Vintage 2000

Launched in 2000, this automatic tonneau watch from Epos features a stainless steel case and puts the date in the place of honour. Displayed on a large calendar window at 12 o’clock, it is cleverly framed by Roman numerals while the rest of the hour circle is in Arabic numerals. Available in black, blue or silvered versions, the watch dial also features a small seconds counter at 6ó clock. The watch houses a Swiss made automatic caliber based on the 2892-A2 movement.

Technical details

Movement
Automatic, calibre 14000 on an ETA 2892-A2 movement, 26 rubies
44-hour power reserve

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date

Case
316L steel

Dial
Black, blue or silvered
Large calendar with two windows
Small seconds

Strap
Black calfskin

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon

The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon watch was introduced in 2000 as a limited-edition “centennial tourbillon”, at the World Watch, Clock and Jewellery Show in Basel.

With a carriage that rotates about its own axis once a minute, the LANGE 1-TOURBILLON equalises the earth’s gravitational forces that act on the escapement. The second one-minute tourbillon from the manufactory that was re-incorporated in 1990 crowns this epitome of horological finesse with the exquisite style of the LANGE 1, arguably the most famous “face” of all high-end watches made in Germany.

On the occasion of the World Exposition in Paris in 1900, to which he was invited as a juror, Emil Lange – then the owner of “A. Lange & Söhne” in Glashütte – brought with him a gold hunting-cased pocket watch with a one-minute tourbillon and a fusee and-chain transmission in a decorated gold case with a platinum coating.

This first Lange centennial tourbillon No. 41000, whose hunter cover is decorated with an enamel miniature of the goddess Minerva standing next to a globe holding an olive branch and showing Dresden in the background, triggered profound admiration.

In Paris, Emil Lange was made a knight of the French Legion of Honour and received the “Pour le Mérite” medal. His extraordinary pocket watch, which originally cost 1500 gold marks, fetched DM 1.5 million at a Habsburg auction in Geneva 90 years later. Today, it is undisputedly one of the great triumphs of watchmaking history.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon watch

The LANGE 1-TOURBILLON is imbued with this tradition. As the world’s first and only wristwatch with a tourbillon, outsize date, twin mainspring barrels for three days’ power reserve and progressive power-reserve indication, it is a masterfully cut solitaire of the horological passion which has sprung back to life in Glashütte.

The one-minute tourbillon – its visible part at least – is crowned by a diamond endstone which acts as a bearing for the filigreed carriage, on both sides, of course. Indeed, it is a delight to behold and a subtle reference to the authenticity of this rare treasure from the house of Lange whose earlier masterpieces were identifiable by precisely such diamond endstones.

The front side of the tourbillon carriage is held by a meticulously polished steel bar which is accurately countersunk in the solid-silver dial and constitutes the most prominent design feature of this LANGE 1. The subsidiary seconds dial is perfectly poised in the asymmetric configuration of the displays.

Each visual detail reveals the successful quest for the degree of harmony in proportions which has helped the LANGE 1 achieve the stature of a classic timepiece of captivating distinction. The solid-silver dial is three-tiered and, depending on the model, provided with rhodiumed or pink-gold appliques. The hands are made of gold. The sapphire-crystal glass and caseback are antireflection-coated.

The movement of the LANGE 1-TOURBILLON, Calibre L961.1, is composed of no less than 378 carefully hand-finished individual parts. It embodies all of the elements which have been responsible for the meteoric rise of Lange watches since the new era began: plates and bridges made of cross-laminated, untreated German silver, screwed gold chatons, screw balance and hand-engraved bridges.

It has 49 jewels and two diamond endstones, a shock-proofed balance, a Nivarox 1 balance spring with a curved overcoil and a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour.

The entire edition was limited to 150 platinum and 250 pink-gold watches. Both come with a crocodile-skin strap and a Lange buckle made of solid platinum or pink gold.

Technical details

Model: A. Lange & Söhne LANGE 1-TOURBILLON

Versions
Reference 704.025: Platinum
Reference 704.032: Pink Gold

Movement
Calibre L961.1 manually wound tourbillon, twin mainspring barrels, power-reserve indicator, patented outsize date

Case
Platinum or Pink gold
Diameter: 38.5 mm
Height: 10.0 mm
Sapphire-crystal glass and caseback

Dial
Solid silver

Strap
Crocodile strap

Edition
Platinum version: Limited to 150 pieces
Pink Gold version: Limited to 250 pieces

Image Credit: Lange Uhren GmbH

MONTEGA R9 Automatic Chronograph

This avant-garde styled automatic chronograph by Swiss luxury watch brand MONTEGA Geneve was created in partnership with Brazilian soccer player Ronaldo, who was the brand ambassador of MONTEGA watches from 1999 to 2001. To honour this connection, the chronograph features a 45-minute counter, an allusion to the world of football. The watch also features a 6-hour chronograph counter.

MONTEGA R9 Automatic Chronograph

R stands for Ronaldo and 9 was his jersey number. This Swiss Made chronograph watch houses the automatic Dubois Dépraz movement with Rotor decorated with Côtes de Genève and enamelled engraving of Montega’s coat-of-arms.

The MONTEGA R9 Automatic Chronograph watch exists in Steel, Yellow gold, white gold and platinum case versions. A major design highlight of the watch is the screwed tube-links bracelet covered with natural rubber.

MONTEGA R9 Automatic Chronograph

MONTEGA Geneva also made a ladies counterpart of this watch. The feminine version of the R9 is however powered by a Swiss quartz movement.

Technical details

Model: MONTEGA R9 Automatic Chronograph

Movement
Automatic Dubois Dépraz, for Montega (Cal. 2047 based on ETA 2892A2)
Rotor decorated with Côtes de Genève and enamelled engraving of Montega’s coat-of-arms

Function
Hours, 45-minute graduated counter with hour totaliser, small seconds, date
Chronograph, COSC certified chronometer, tachometer

Case
Steel/rubber or yellow gold/rubber
Push-pieces, crowns and decorations in natural rubber
13 screwed elements, anti-glare crystal and transparent screwed back
Water-resistant to 50 m

Dial
Striped black
Hour counter at 6 o’clock, seconds counter at 3 o’clock, 45-minuted graduated counter at 9 o’clock, date window

Bracelet
Screwed tube-links covered with natural rubber

Other Versions
White gold or platinum case
Translucid blue, white, midnight blue, pearl grey or cream dial with drop decoration in the centre

MONTEGA Amore

The ladies’ Amore quartz chronograph features the same exclusive architecture as the men’s R9. All the steel and rubber elements of the case and bracelet are screwed, while the centre drop decoration preserves the dial’s strong personality. This model is available in white gold, yellow gold, steel as well as jewellery version.

MONTEGA Amore watch

Technical details

Model: MONTEGA Amore

Movement
Quartz

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Chronograph, tachometer

Case
Steel, yellow or white gold
13 screwed elements, anti-glare crystal
Water-resistant to 30 m

Dial
Cream, drop decoration in centre
Minute counter at 10 o’clock, hour at 6 o’clock and small seconds at 2 o’clock, date window

Bracelet/Strap
Screwed tube-links

Other versions
Black, white, midnight blue, translucent blue, pearl grey or mother-of-pearl, with drop decoration in centre
Leather strap

Note: MONTEGA Geneve’s partnership with Ronaldo for the R9 watch collection was not successful and led to a legal battle between both parties. The court announced verdict in favour of Ronaldo. The MONTEGA Geneve Watch Company declared bankrupt soon after this court case.

HERMES Cape Cod Acier, Ladies Version

Its maritime character, robustness and simplicity have given this collection the name of the famous cape on America’s eastern seaboard. The ladies’ version has now been made in steel for the first time. Its characteristic case, which recalls the links in the Hermès Anchor Chain line of jewellery, comes with a choice of the brand’s exclusive bracelets and straps: the pebble-link bracelet shown here, or the traditional or Double-Tour leather straps.

HERMES Cape Cod Acier, Ladies Version

Technical details

Movement
Quartz

Functions
Hours, minutes

Case
Steel
Cambered sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 30 m

Dial
Silvered or black
Transfer numerals

Bracelet/Strap
Steel

Other versions
750 (18K) yellow or white gold, diamond-set or plain

Links

HERMES Harnais watch, New Model

In 2000, Hermès created a new version of the Harnais model it created in 1996. Set into the leather strap, its curved case marries perfectly with the shape of the wrist. The dun or black strap, made of the same bridle leather used by Hermès since its foundation for bridles and saddles, is entirely hand-stitched.

HERMES Harnais watch, New Model

Technical details

Movement
Quartz

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date

Case
Stainless steel
Cambered sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 30 m

Dial
Silver with ball markers
Date display

Bracelet/Strap
Natural cow skin, vegetable tanning, saddle-stitched with linen thread
Folding clasp

Links

HUBLOT Grand Quantième Or Noir

Introduced in 2000 to celebrate third millennium, this limited edition timepiece features a classic case in white gold and fitted with an exceptional black gold dial, marking a first for the brand. Place of honour on this discreetly luxurious watch is given to the date, with its large calendar and day indicator in English. The 100 automatic pieces in this series are individually numbered and marked “H 2000” on the back.

Technical details
Movement
Automatic

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds
Day-Date (calendar with two perfectly juxtaposed disks)

Case
White 750 (18K) gold
Back numbered from 1 to 100 and marked “H 2000”

Dial
Black 750 (18K) gold
Date windows (double at 12 o’clock, single at 6 o’clock)

Strap
Black rubber, integrated reinforcements, vanilla-scented

ORIS XXL Chronometer Limited Edition 2000

In 2000, Oris created a limited edition ORIS XXL chronometer watch with a stainless steel case measuring 40mm diameter. This COSC-certified automatic watch was released in a limited edition of 350 pieces.

The movement beating inside this timepiece is the Oris Calibre 637, the Chronometer version of the Calibre 635. This stainless steel watch features an 18-carat solid gold plate, displaying the limited edition numbering of each timepiece from 001/350 to 350/350.

ORIS XXL Chronometer Limited Edition 2000
ORIS XXL Chronometer Limited Edition 2000, Reference: 637 7504 63 81 LS/ Image Credit: ORIS SA

The case is water resistant to a depth of 30 m. This mode features dynamically engine-turned horn loops and a genuine croco leather strap. The stainless-steel crown is engraved with the ORIS emblem.

Technical details

Model: ORIS XXL Chronometer Limited Edition 2000
Reference: 637 7504 63 81 LS/ Ø 40.00 mm

Movement
Oris 637
Mechanical automatic movement
Base Caliber: ETA 2824-2, Ø 25.60 mm, 11 1/2”’, bi-directional automatic winding, ball bearing, 25 jewels, Incabloc,
28¹800 A/h, 4 Hz, power-reserve 38 h, fine timing device and stop-second, centre hands for hours, minutes and seconds, date window instantaneous date, date corrector, Glucydur balance, Chronometer certified

Case
Stainless-steel case with screwed polished back and pressure glass top ring as bezel
Sapphire crystal
Steel crown
Mineral glass back
Water resistant to a depth of 30 m
Screwed gold plate of solid 18-carat yellow gold, individually numbered from 001/350 to 350/350

Dial
Exquisite full-figured dial with white radiant enamelled silver ground with engraved and raised gilt hour numerals
Date window positioned at 6 o‘clock

Special features
Chronometer finish with official certificate

Strap
Genuine croco leather strap with butterfly buckle and security lock

 

Ikepod Hemipode Grande Date Automatic Chronograph

Introduced in 2000, the Ikepod Hemipode Big Date features a remarkable one-piece steel case by designer Marc Newson. This chronograph watch is fitted with a Dubois Dépraz 4500 automatic movement. As well as the traditional hour and chronograph indications, it shows the date in a large window at 12 o’clock. Fitted with a double sided anti-glare sapphire crystal glass, the watch is water resistant to 50 meters.

Ikepod Hemipode Grande Date Automatic Chronograph

Technical details

Model: Ikepod Hemipode Grande Date Automatic Chronograph

Movement
Automatic

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Chronograph

Case
Steel
Double-sided anti-glare sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 50 m

Dial
Silvered
12-hour and 60-minute counters
Small seconds
Large date window
Luminescent hands

Strap
Black rubber