BLANCPAIN Tourbillon Chronographe Fly-Back Rattrapante, Platinum

Introduced in 1999 by Blancpain to the 10th anniversary of its split-seconds chronograph, this high complication wristwatch houses a tourbillon with an 8-day power reserve in addition to the Split-seconds Fly-back chronograph mechanism. It is also the eighth Blancpain complication.

BLANCPAIN Tourbillon Chronographe Fly-Back Rattrapante, Platinum

Made in platinum in a limited series of 99 pieces, it indicates the hour on a sub-dial at 12 o’clock and the chronograph 30-minute and 12-hour functions at 3 and 9 o’clock respectively. The split-seconds chronograph hands are in the centre.

Technical details

Model: BLANCPAIN Tourbillon Chronographe Fly-Back Rattrapante, Platinum

Movement
Automatic
8-day power reserve

Functions
Tourbillon
Split-seconds Fly-back chronograph

Case
950 platinum
Sapphire crystal
Sapphire back
Water-resistant to 100 m

Dial
Ebony black
Luminescent Arabic numerals
Tourbillon cage visible at 6 o’clock

Strap
Barenia calfskin

CVDK MASTERPIECE Planetarium by Christiaan van der Klaauw – Wristwatch with Smallest Mechanical Planetarium In the World

With in this watch, celebrated master watch maker Christiaan van der Klaauw has created a smallest mechanical planetarium in the world.

The CK MASTERPIECE Planetarium timepiece from the atelier of Christiaan van der Klaauw Astronomical Watches in Joure, takes its inspiration from legendary astronomical timepieces including one created by Eise Eisinga (1744-1828), the oldest operative mechanical planetarium in the world.

Christiaan van der Klaauw CVDK MASTERPIECE Planetarium

This timepiece is equipped with the smallest planetarium in the world and gives not only the time, date and Month, but also the orbits of Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn around the Sun.

The first written reference with respect to a mechanical model of the Sun, Moon and planets is over 2000 years old. The instrument described in the document was made by Archimedes who lived 200 years earlier. Since those days, numerous astronomical timepieces have been built.

Between this oldest-known planetarium of Archimedes and the smallest planetarium of Christiaan van der Klaauw Astronomical Watches the most splendid specimens with ingenious drives and clever gear constructions have been manufactured. Given their special construction, a number of these are worth mentioning.

Christiaan van der Klaauw CVDK MASTERPIECE Planetarium

A very ingenious and therefore very special specimen is the afore-mentioned masterpiece of Archimedes. This instrument is known as the ‘Antikythera machine’, named after the Greek island of Antikythera where divers found fragments of this instrument in 1901. The instrument contained more than twenty cogwheels, some of them with spokes. The gear train used was a so-called ‘epicycloidal’ gear train. The characteristic of such a gear train is that a number of cogwheels are placed in a frame that, as a whole, rotates around a cogwheel that stands still or has its own movement.

It is not really surprising that this type of transmission was used in those days. It was still assumed that the Earth was the centre of the universe, and that the Sun, Moon and other planets circled around a centre. This centre, in its turn, circled around the Earth. The first circle was called the epicycle, whereas the circle around the centre of the epicycle was called the deference. This theory is known as the geocentric worldview of Ptolemy.

Geocentric means that the Earth is in the centre. The extraordinary thing about this theory is that it persisted for such a long time. This was probably because with this theory, which was based on a wrong point of departure, it was nevertheless possible to make good predictions as to the position of Sun, Moon and planets.

It was not until 1543 that this theory came to an end. The worldview of Ptolemy was changed by Nicolaus Copernicus (1473-1543). His ideas encountered much resistance, especially from the churches. In 1543 he published his theory that not the Earth but the Sun forms the centre of our solar system in ‘De Revolutionibus Orbium Coelestium’.

This theory is known as the heliocentric worldview of Copernicus. He argued that in this way it was much simpler to explain the different celestial phenomena. In his view, the Earth had its own rotation, and the planets – including the Earth – revolved around the Sun. The system as pictured by Copernicus was, however, still not quite complete. He put the Sun in the centre, but the planets orbited the centre of the earth’s orbit.

Christiaan van der Klaauw CVDK MASTERPIECE Planetarium

After Johannes Kepler (1571-1630), who laid the foundation of modern astronomy with his laws of the planetary motion, it became much easier to build planetariums. This was because the Sun was placed in the centre, and the planets described ellipses around the Sun. This was the end of the system of epicycle and deference.

A well-known planetarium from that period is that of the Dutch physicist Christiaan Huygens (1629-1695). He placed the cogwheels that drive the planets eccentrically relative to the centre. In this way, the position of the planets was indicated fairly accurately. They thus move according to Kepler’s second law.

Although there are many planetariums worth mentioning, that of Eise Eisinga (1744-1828) in Franeker, Friesland (the Netherlands), is important for Christiaan van der Klaauw because it was this planetarium that inspired him in his work. Eise Eisinga built his planetarium in the period 1774-1781 and, after 200 years, it is still operative. This makes it the oldest operative mechanical planetarium in the world.

Some of Christiaan van der Klaauw’s top pieces can be found in the museum of Eise Eisinga. The CK Planetarium is one of the most famous creations of the master watch maker and is an ultimate demonstration of precision and traditional handwork.

 

Technical details

Name of the watch: Christiaan van der Klaauw CVDK MASTERPIECE Planetarium

Movement

CK 1196 modified self-winding movement with in-house Planetarium module.

Functions

The watch is equipped with the smallest heliocentric planetarium in the world and displays not only the time, date and month, but also the orbits of Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn around the Sun.

Models

Model: CVDK PLANETARIUM CK PT 1126

Case: Rose gold, ø 40 mm; anti-reflection sapphire crystal; transparent case-back.
Dial: White with blue indexes, lacquered planetarium including coloured planets.
Hands: Blued steel with red second hand.
Strap: Blue alligator leather.
Buckle: Logo engraved rose gold buckle.

Model: CVDK PLANETARIUM CK PT 1144

Case: Rose gold, ø 40 mm; anti-reflection sapphire crystal; transparent case-back.
Dial: Silver and black with black indexes, black rhodinated planetarium including planets.
Hands: White coloured steel.
Strap: Black alligator leather.
Buckle: Logo engraved rose gold buckle.

Model: CVDK PLANETARIUM CK PT 1844

Case: Rose gold, ø 40 mm; diamond set in rose gold bezel; anti-reflection sapphire crystal; transparent case-back. Dial: Silver and black with black indexes, black rhodinated planetarium including planets. Hands: White coloured steel.
Strap: Black alligator leather.
Buckle: Logo engraved rose gold buckle

Model: CVDK PLANETARIUM CK PT 7726

Case: White gold, ø 40 mm; anti-reflection sapphire crystal; transparent case-back.
Dial: White with blue indexes, lacquered planetarium including coloured planets.
Hands: Blued steel with red second hand.
Strap: Blue alligator leather.
Buckle: Logo engraved white gold buckle.

Model: CVDK PLANETARIUM CK PT 7744

Case: White gold, ø 40 mm; anti-reflection sapphire crystal; transparent case-back.
Dial: Silver and black with black indexes, black rhodinated planetarium including planets.
Hands: White coloured steel.
Strap: Black alligator leather.
Buckle: Logo engraved white gold buckle.

Model: CVDK  PLANETARIUM CK PT 7844

Case: White gold, ø 40 mm; diamond set in white gold bezel; anti-reflection sapphire crystal; transparent case-back. Dial: Silver and black with black indexes, black rhodinated planetarium including planets. Hands: White coloured steel.
Strap: Black alligator leather.
Buckle: Logo engraved white gold buckle.

Model: CVDK PLANETARIUM 8 CK PT2244 L (CK Planetarium 8 Limited Edition)

Case: Platinum, ø 40 mm; anti-reflection sapphire crystal; transparent case-back.
Dial: Silver with black indexes, black rhodinated planetarium including planets.
Hands: Blued steel.
Strap: Black alligator leather.
Buckle: Logo engraved platinum buckle.
Edition: Limited production of 8 pieces

Sinn 203 ARKTIS Chronograph Diving Watch

The 203 ARKTIS Chronograph is Sinn’s first diving watch to feature Temperature Resistance Technology. This means that it is guaranteed to run and function reliably even at exceptionally low temperatures.  This watch passed its Arctic endurance test on the wrist of extreme diver Mario M. Weidner.

 The 203 ARKTIS survived not only all the dives in the icy water of the Arctic Ocean, also sessions in the sauna onboard of the research vessel. However, the true test of the watch’s quality lay in coping with the extreme temperature fluctuations between those found in the water (freezing point) and those on land (up to –25 °C) which represents a real challenge for a watch worn outside a thermal diving suit. Each individual piece the diving watch 203 ARKTIS undergoes function testing by Sinn at a temperature range between –45°C and +80°C, which is very unusual for mechanical watches.

Sinn 203 ARKTIS Chronograph Diving Watch

Technical details

Movement
Valjoux 7750 Self-winding mechanism
25 bearing jewels
28,800 semi-oscillations per hour
Seconds stop function
Shock resistant as per DIN 8308
Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309

Case
Case made of stainless steel, polished Sapphire crystal glass in front, anti-reflective on both sides
Case back screw-fastened
Crown screwable
Push-pieces screwable
Water-resistant as per DIN 8310
Pressure-resistant up to 30 bar (= 300 m water depth), 20 bar with transparent case back
Low pressure resistant

Functions
Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds
Date display
Day of the week display
Chronograph
Diver’s bezel with minute ratcheting and luminous key mark

SINN Technologies
Ar-Dehumidifying Technology enhances functional reliability and freedom from fogging
Temperature resistance technology, therefore functionally reliable at temperatures from -45 °C up to +80°C

Dimensions and Weight
Case diameter: 41 mm
Band lug width: 20 mm
Case thickness: 16 mm
Weight without strap: 90 gramme

Dial and Hands
Blue electroplated dial
Indices coated with luminescent colour
Hour, minute and second hand coated with luminescent colour

Warranty
2 years

BLANCPAIN Répétition Minutes Étanche 2135 Yellow Gold – The First Minute Repeater Wristwatch with Water Resistant to 30 Meters

Introduced in 1999, the BLANCPAIN 2135 is the first minute repeater wristwatch with water-resistant to 30 meters, thanks to an exclusive patented locking mechanism which seals the case. When it is open, the valve on the left side frees a spring inside that enables the repeater mechanism to be wound.

To ensure total water-resistance, though, it must be closed. This blocks the repeater mechanism. This exceptional watch has a yellow gold case from the 2100 line and is fitted with the famous automatic 0035 movement launched by the brand in 1988, one of the smallest and flattest of its kind. The white opaline dial with brushed sunray pattern features a small seconds dial at 6 o’clock.

BLANCPAIN Répétition Minutes Étanche 2135 Yellow Gold -  The First Minute Repeater Wristwatch with Water Resistant to 30 Meters

Technical details

Movement
Automatic 0035

Functions
Minute repeater (hours, quarters, minutes)

Case
750 (18K) yellow gold
Screw-down back and crown
Water-resistant to 30 m (exclusive Blancpain-patented locking mechanism)

Dial
White opaline, brushed sunray pattern
Small seconds at 6 o’clock

Strap
Honey-coloured crocodile leather strap

PHILIPPE DUFOUR Répétition Minutes Grande et Petite sonnerie

This superlative horology masterpiece is one of the most revered complication watches crafted in Switzerland. The legendary master watchmaker Philippe Dufour created this authentic masterpiece, unveiling the entire mechanism of this grand and small strike minute repeater.

The bezel can even be lifted to admire the screws underneath adorned with hand-enamelled and hand-engraved indications. With a nod to modernity and clarity, the hands are of a different colour than the movement while the hour-circle, with its hour markers and Arabic numerals, has been applied directly to the crystal. The exclusive buckle has been fashioned, piece by piece, by the watchmaker himself.

PHILIPPE DUFOUR Répétition Minutes Grande et Petite sonnerie

Technical details

Movement
Hand-wound, 21,600 vph, 35 rubies
38-hour power reserve

Functions
Striking mechanism (grand strike, small strike, minute repeater, 24-hour power reserve)

Case
750 (18K) white gold
Hinged bezel, protecting the striking mechanism levers
2 sapphire crystals

Dial
Blue applique hour markers and Arabic numerals
Exclusive blued steel hands

Strap
Crocodile
Exclusive gold buckle, can be completely dismantled

CHOPARD Mille Miglia 1999

The Chopard Mille Miglia 1999 automatic chronograph features a bright dial: its surface is silvered and circular-grained with concentric circles around the counters.

CHOPARD Mille Miglia 1999 automatic chronograph

Limited to 100 pieces in yellow gold and 1,000 pieces in steel, the series are individually numbered and presented on the traditional Dunlop Racing tyre strap.

Technical details

Model: Chopard Mille Miglia 1999

Movement
Automatic

Functions
Date
Chronograph (centre seconds, 12 hr and 30 min counters)

Case
Steel, 1,000 numbered pieces
750 (18K) yellow gold, 100 numbered pieces
Transparent backs
Sapphire crystals
Water-resistant to 50 m

Dial
Circular-grained and silvered
Luminescent Arabic numerals
2 chronograph counters, small independent seconds
Tachometer

Strap
Rubber, Dunlop Racing tyre design strap

IWC Schaffhausen Mark XV Pilot’s Watch (1999)

Introduced in 1999, the Mark XV followed the footsteps of its popular predecessor Mark XII. The case is slightly larger (38 mm) and the dial design is perhaps more striking. Instead of a buckle, the leather strap is supplied with a folding clasp.

The pilot’s watch is equipped with the mechanical 37524 calibre automatic movement which provides the Mark XV with a direct link to its earlier predecessors, the Mark IX, Mark X and Mark XI. To protect the movement against magnetic influences the Mark XV is fitted with a soft-iron inner case. The outer case is water-resistant to 60 m.

IWC Schaffhausen Mark XV Pilot’s Watch (1999)

The pilot’s watch tradition at IWC goes back all the way to the 1930s. The first series produced IWC pilot’s watch was the Mark IX with its rotating glass ring and marker to show take-off time. Another highlight was the calibre 52 S.C. (“Seconde au Centre” – centre seconds hand), which was manufactured for the German Luftwaffe and came with an extra-long strap for wearing over a flying suit.

In the mid-1940s, IWC started supplying the British Royal Air Force with the Mark X, a traditional wristwatch-size pilot’s watch. This featured the small seconds hand now made possible by advances in technology.

In 1948, the Mark X was replaced by the Mark XI, which had again been developed specially for the Royal Air Force. This watch was not only the choice of RAF pilots but also adopted by the officers of most other air forces in the Commonwealth, including those of Australia, New Zealand and South Africa.

EBERHARD & Co. Tazio Nuvolari Gold Car Chronograph Collection

Originally introduced in 1999, this automatic chronograph belongs to EBERHARD & Co’s legendary collection dedicated to one of automobile racing’s most celebrated names, Tazio Nuvolari.

EBERHARD & Co. Tazio Nuvolari Gold Car Chronograph Collection

It is equipped with an automatic movement with a solid gold rotor engraved with the Type C Alfa Romeo, which the champion drove to victory on several occasions. Made of steel, it has a bezel engraved in miles.

Technical details

Model: EBERHARD & Co. Tazio Nuvolari Gold Car Chronograph

Movement: Automatic, 750 (18K) gold rotor with reproduction of Type C Alfa Romeo
Functions: Chronograph
Case: Steel
Bezel engraved in miles
Transparent back
Water-resistant to 30 m
Dial: Black luminescent hands and Arabic numerals
Strap: Leather

Oris Big Crown 3 Automatic

Introduced in 1999, the Big Crown 3 belongs to third generation of pilot watches from Swiss watch brand Oris. The automatic Big Crown boasts a solid stainless steel case and a bracelet with rectangular links. Fitted with the famous oversized crown, it features date and day windows at 6 and 12 o’clock.

Oris Big Crown 3 Automatic watch

Technical details

Movement
Automatic, 25 jewels

Functions
Day and date with instant setting

Case
Stainless steel
40 and 35 mm in diameter
Sapphire crystal
Screw-down back with mineral glass
Water-resistant to 50 m

Dial
Black or white
Luminescent hour markers and hands

Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel with double-safety folding clasp
Genuine leather or rubber strap available

MAUBOUSSIN Montre Tourbillon Transparente

Introduced in 1999 by French Jewellery house MAUBOUSSIN, this exceptional horology complication in white gold features a strong and original design aimed at those with a passion for traditional fine luxury watchmaking. What makes this timepiece exceptional is the plate in transparent quartz, a material that is particularly difficult to work with.

Equipped with a hand wound mechanical tourbillon movement, this timepiece gives glimpse to its inner workings with a high level of transparency.

MAUBOUSSIN Montre Tourbillon Transparente watch

Technical details

  • Movement: Hand-wound mechanical with quartz plate
  • Functions: Tourbillon
  • Case: White 750 (18K) gold, Sapphire crystals
  • Dial: Quartz
  • Strap: Interchangeable crocodile leather

BLANCPAIN Quantième à Phases De Lune Demi-Savonnette

Introduced in 1999 by BLANCPAIN, this haute horlogerie masterpiece in rose gold reflects a successful alliance between the art of watch manufacturing and astronomy.

BLANCPAIN Quantième à Phases De Lune Demi-Savonnette

Inspired from the historic half-hunter watches, the BLANCPAIN Quantième à Phases De Lune Demi-Savonnette is fitted with a single cover rather than two like the hunter.

BLANCPAIN Quantième à Phases De Lune Demi-Savonnette

The opaline dial features gold facetted applique hour markers and facetted, luminous skeleton hands for hour and minute indication. The month and day indication is displayed through a window at 12’o clock.

BLANCPAIN Quantième à Phases De Lune Demi-Savonnette

The small seconds dial at 6’o clock also incorporates Moonphase indication. A centre hand with red pointer tips indicates the date. The decorated movement, with an automatic moon-phase calendar with two barrels and a rotor in solid gold, can be seen through the sapphire crystal.

Technical details

Movement
Automatic, 261 components, 29 rubies, decorated
2 barrels for a 100-hour power reserve
750 (18K) gold rotor

Functions
Calendar (date, day, month and moon phases)

Case
750 (18K) red gold
Half-hunter (3 pieces and cover on bottom)
Screw-down crown and correctors
Double-sided anti-reflective cambered sapphire crystal
Screw-down sapphire back under the cover
Water-resistant to 100 m

Dial
Opaline with gold facetted applique hour markers
Facetted, luminous skeleton hands

Strap
Crocodile leather with 750 (18K) red gold buckle

IWC Schaffhausen GST Deep One Diving Watch (1999)

Introduced in 1999,The IWC GST Deep One diving watch was the only one of its kind to feature a mechanical depth gauge, maximum depth display and a rotating bezel to show dive time.

The GST Deep One ingeniously combines the two parameters crucial to anyone fascinated by the sub aquatic world: dive time and dive depth. Entirely mechanical, it is a superbly finished watch ideally suited to the rigours of amateur scuba diving.

IWC Schaffhausen GST Deep One Diving Watch (1999)

The Deep One is tested for water resistance to 100 metres. But there is a very good reason why the depth gauge is calibrated to show exact depths to 45 metres: the world’s major diving associations recommend that the maximum depth for safe amateur diving is between 30 and 40 metres.

The Deep One is the product of an amazing feat of engineering. As in the Ocean or the GST Aquatimer, a special titanium alloy was the material chosen for the case. This is as voluminous as it is complex and houses two completely independent systems.

The Deep One from IWC is first and foremost a watch with a precision mechanical movement and is ideal for timing the length of a dive. To do so, one simply turns the rotating inner dive ring until zero aligns with the minute hand. The time spent under water can then be read off on the ring. The mechanical depth gauge in the centre starts functioning from the moment the diver submerges. The depth gauge has an additional hand, which functions as a maximum depth indicator and remains in position to show the maximum depth reached during the dive, while the depth gauge itself returns to zero when the diver leaves the water.IWC Schaffhausen GST Deep One Diving Watch (1999)

The automatic movement, the ultra precise IWC 8914 calibre, was chosen because its decentralized small seconds hand leaves sufficient room for the depth gauge axis in the centre of the watch. The movement itself is somewhat smaller than the Deep One’s considerable 42 mm external diameter.

The reason for this is that the pressure exerted by the water is not measured on a membrane attached to the back – as was the case in the few wristwatches produced in the past with mechanical depth gauges – but via a ring-formed measuring device inside the case. This runs around the movement in a separate part of the case. The mechanical expansion of this element caused by water pressure is transformed into movement of the depth gauge by a system of levers and wheels.

The water exerts pressure on the gauge after entering the watch through an inlet valve at the 4 o’clock position, which also serves as the adjustment for the depth gauge.

A testing cylinder supplied with the watch and applied via the inlet valve can be used to verify that the depth gauge is functioning correctly. The actual crown can be screwed in and is used for setting the time, the date (via a rapid-advance mechanism) and for starting the movement. To facilitate accurate setting of the movement, the watch is equipped with a stop seconds hand.

The third crown at the 2 o’clock position fulfills two important, diving-linked functions. As we have already seen, it can be used to turn the rotating inner ring to display the exact diving time, but only in the “save” direction – i.e.\ anti-clockwise.

Apart from this, the crown can be pressed down to reset the maximum depth display. Outer protection is provided by a convex, 3.2- mm-thick sapphire glass. To make the watch even safer in practical use, critical display functions, such as parts of the rotating dive ring, the minute hand and the depth gauge, are luminous.

Technical details

Model: IWC Schaffhausen GST Deep One Diving Watch

Movement
Automatic

Functions
Date at 3 o’clock
Measures length of dive and depth to 45 m

Case
Titanium
Diving-functions crown at 2 o’clock
Pressure-measurement crown at 4 o’clock
Water-resistant to 100 m

Dial
Rotating ring (measures length and depth of a dive)
Small seconds at 6 o’clock

Strap
Titanium + Velcro strap for wearing it on a diving suit

IWC Schaffhausen -The “Da Vinci Tourbillon Four Seasons”

Launched in 1999 and made in a tiny edition of just 20 pieces , the “Da Vinci Tourbillon Four Seasons” timepiece features a highly artistic dial hand-chased by master engraver, Wolfgang Sigwart,  paying homage to Leonardo Da Vinci’s unparalleled skills as an artist.

Perhaps the touchstone of truly great genius is the ability to go on inspiring other human beings to outstanding achievements even centuries later. Such a genius, whose work and achievement continue to fascinate us today, was unquestionably Leonardo Da Vinci. It was therefore a particular challenge for the watchmakers at IWC when they set to work in the early 1980s to create a timepiece that would bear the name of the maestro himself. They proved to be more than equal to the task: launched in 1985, the Da Vinci, with its perpetual calendar and moon phase display, is a masterpiece of mechanical watchmaking.
IWC Schaffhausen -The “Da Vinci Tourbillon Four Seasons”Wolfgang Sigwart, the master engraver, has left his mark on countless watch movements and cases in the form of engraved decorations. But the fact that his talents were restricted to hand-engraving the back of the Da Vinci was clearly a spur to his ambition.

And so, since the mid-1980s, he has devoted countless free hours to a work of art that has enchanted all who have had an opportunity to see it. A dial in relief from depicting four allegorical female figures who represent spring, summer, autumn and winter.

When IWC decided to create a very special edition of its classic timepiece – the Da Vinci Tourbillon – for the new millennium, it was not long before someone had the inspired idea of producing a limited edition featuring Sigwart’s masterpiece of engraving. And so the “Da Vinci Tourbillon Four Seasons” was born. Putting it into practice presented Wolfgang Sigwart with one problem after another. For a start, he had to be certain that his work would not detract from the displays on the dial. And the Da Vinci has no shortage of those.

There are no fewer than nine hands, a moon phase display and a perpetual calendar with a four-digit year display providing the wearer with precise information. Once again, Wolfgang Sigwart lived up to his reputation and found an aesthetic solution to a difficult problem.

The solid gold dial contains not only four female figures but also some wonderful Art Nouveau decoration very much in the vein of Mucha’s “Four Seasons”. The fact that none of the twenty dials, the product of painstaking craftsmanship over a period of many weeks, is identical gives each of the Da Vinci Tourbillon four Seasons the additional cachet of being unique.

The technical and artistic fascination that mark the Four seasons are in themselves an allegory of the life and work of Leonardo Da Vinci. The charm of the dial is echoed by the technical mastery of what we see when we look through the sapphire glass back. In optical and functional terms, the minute tourbillon underscores the consummate artistry of IWC watchmaking.

IWC Schaffhausen Da Vinci Tourbillon with Perpetual Calendar

This exceptional timepiece was unveiled in 1999 to celebrate the arrival of third millennium.

Back in 1985, IWC designer Hano Burtscher discovered sketches made by Leonardo in 1499 for the circular fortifications at the harbour of Piombino and found his inspiration for the first Da Vinci chronograph. The result was a watch that stands out on anyone’s wrist: reliable, built, it seems, to last for an eternity, but with a complex, almost filigree mechanical movement that continues to set standards.

At the heart of the Da Vinci Tourbillon special edition, is the intricate device from which the watch takes its name and it was the part of the watch developed to celebrate the company’s 125th anniversary, “Il Destriero Scafusia”.

The tourbillon was developed to counterbalance the one-sided effects of gravity on the precision of top quality mechanical watches, and remains one of the most exacting challenges to the watchmaker’s skills. The way in which IWC took on and surmounted this particular challenge continues to fascinate watch lovers all over the world. The minute tourbillon alone consists of almost 100 parts and yet weighs just 0.3 gm.

IWC Schaffhausen Da Vinci Tourbillon with Perpetual Calendar

The perpetual calendar is programmed up to the year 2499. To provide the owner with an unimpeded view of this micromechanical masterpiece at work, the Da Vinci Tourbillon – unlike the standard Da Vinci and the Da Vinci split seconds chronograph – is fitted with a sapphire glass back.

Other differences include the hand-wound IWC 76061 calibre movement and the tiny word “Tourbillon” in the date display circle.

This special edition IWC Da Vinci Tourbillon was produced in yellow gold and platinum in limited editions of 200 and 50 pieces respectively.

Revue Thommen Cricket Pocket

Introduced in 1999, this traditional fob watch houses the Cricket, the world’s most famous alarm movement. Its unique cricket sound has been appreciated by several leading international figures over the past half century and earned it the name “the presidents’ watch”. The back of the case is engraved with a picture of the Capitol in Washington as well as the individual serial number.

Revue Thommen Cricket Pocket watch hand-wound

Technical details

Movement
Exclusive hand-wound mechanical

Functions
Alarm

Case
Pink gold plated
Capitol and individual serial number engraved on the back
Water-resistant to 30 m

Dial
Engine-turned in the centre
Alarm minute circle divided into 10-minute periods

Other versions
Palladium

Dubey & Schaldenbrand Carré cambré Calendar, Pink Gold

Introduced in 1999, this luxurious automatic timepiece from Dubey & Schaldenbrand is inspired by the twenties.

This Carré cambré Calendar model comes in a cambered square pink gold case and features a large date window at 12 o’clock. The date is displayed on two independent disks and can be rapidly set with the crown.

Dubey & Schaldenbrand Carré cambré Calendar, Pink Gold

The Sliver guilloche dial boasts golden hour appliqués, 3 & 9 in golden Arabic numerals, golden alpha hands, a small seconds indicator at 6’o clock and a large date window at 12’o clock. The Dubey & Schaldenbrand Carré cambré Calendar is also available in Silver case/Stainless steel case with silver or black dial.

The cambered cushion shaped case of the Carré cambré Calendar model measures 34×34 mm and thickness is 9.9mm. The engraved case back is secured with 4 screws.

Technical details

Movement
Automatic, 28,800 v/h

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, large date on two independent disks

Case
Cambered square
750 (18K) pink gold
Cambered sapphire crystal
Back affixed with 4 screws

Dial
Silvered, guilloché, with appliques
Alpha hands
Small seconds at 6 o’clock
Large date window at 12 o’clock

Bracelet/Strap
Alligator mississippiensis with gold buckle

Other versions
Case in 0.925 silver/ 316L Stainless steel
Black or silver dial

EPOS Emotion Big Date : Tricompax Chronograph with Big Date

Introduced in 1999 by traditional Swiss watch brand Epos , this automatic wristwatch boasts a tricompax chronograph with big date at 12 o’clock. This exceptional timepiece from the Emotion collection is equipped with the Calibre 4500 automatic based on the ETA 2892-A2 movement. This model features a round steel case with a fluted bezel and a screw-down transparent caseback.

Technical details
Movement
Calibre 4500 automatic, based on an ETA 2892-A2 movement

Functions
Tricompax chronograph
Large date at 12 o’clock

Case
316L steel
Sapphire crystal
Screw-down transparent caseback
Water-resistant to 50 m

Dial
Silvered

Strap
Leather

Chronoswiss Tora Chronograph

Chronoswiss launched its first world time piece – the “Tora” – in 1994. With its dual-zone dial the “Tora” has become a faithful companion for globetrotters and all those with a cosmopolitan outlook – from Berlin toNew York and Hong Kong.

In 1999, Gerd-R. Lang launched a new creation, the “Tora Chronograph” to win the hearts of all those chronograph freaks who so far have held back from buying a universal time piece.
Chronoswiss Tora Chronograph
This wristwatch comes with an easy-to-read 24-hour dial. While local time is indicated by the usual hand mechanism from the centre, an additional, individually selectable time zone can be read off an analogue 24-hour dial on the left. Using the chronograph could not be easier or quicker: Simply press an additional third button on the side to re-set the 24-hour hands to the time zone of your choice.

It has never been easier to read (nightphase with different colour) and operate a chronograph with two time zones. This exceptional concept represents a truly pioneering achievement on the world market – and one available at the moment only from Chronoswiss.

Chronoswiss Tora Chronograph

As far as correct time-keeping is concerned, the watch is equipped with the exclusive Chronoswiss caliber C.743 movement with automatic winding, a 30-minute and 12-hour counter, an analogue date display and, as a technical rarity, the 2nd time dial with high-speed pushbutton correction.

Additional specifications: 25 jewels, fine adjustment, shock absorber, scratch-proof and non-reflecting sapphire glass for the cover and base, and individual numbering. The classic Chronoswiss watch case with its high recognition value consists of 19 parts, complete with a screw-on glass ring and a solid silver watch face in white or black.

Technical details

Model: Tora Chronograph

References
CH 7420, platinum 950 (69g), limited edition (99 pieces)
CH 7421, 18ct. gold (52g)
CH 7421 R, 18ct. red gold (52g)
CH 7421 W, white gold (52g)
CH 7422, 18ct. gold (13g)/steel
CH 7422 R, 18ct. red gold (13g)/steel
CH 7423, steel
CH 7423 bk, steel

Displays
Hour. minute, second;second time-zone 24 hours, date,Chrono-center-second, 30-minute-register, 12-hour-register

Case
Massive 25-part case, ø 38 mm, height 15,10 mm, smoothed and polished, screwed, decorative bezel with non-reflective sapphire crystal, screwed back with full thread and non-reflective sapphire crystal, turnip crown and pushers, blue pushers for second time-zone, screwed-on strap bars with patented Autobloc safety system, water-resistant up to 3 atm (30 m)

Movement
Chronoswiss Caliber C.743, automatic winding,ø 30 mm (13¼ ´´´), 25 Jewels, Incabloc shock-absorber,46 hours power-reserve, 4 Hz., 28.800 vibrations per hour (vph),analog date, 24-hour dial with high-speed adjustment by pushbutton

Dial
Guilloché 925 Sterling-Silver-dial with Arabic numerals; minute-circle with ¼ second-division; blued, gilt or white-varnished steel hands Breguet Losange

MONDAINE Jean-Michel Cousteau Solaire

This dive watch collection was created by Swiss watch maker MONDAINE in association with Jean-Michel Cousteau, the celebrated oceanographer. Introduced in 1999, this solar powered quartz watch was produced using 100% recycled metal. Powered with solar energy, this dive watch offers a power reserve up to 100 days. This collection was comprised of six versions, and each timepiece is tested for a water resistance up to 200 meters.

Technical details
Movement
Quartz powered by solar energy
100-day power reserve

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Digital chronograph and alarm, optional

Case
100% recycled metal
Unidirectional rotating bezel
Screw-down crown
Water-resistant to 200 m

Dial
Solar
Legible in the dark

Strap
100% recycled metal

LONGINES Conquest VHP Perpetual

Introduced in 1999, the Conquest VHP Perpetual propels quartz technology to the limits, attaining a precision of approximately ±10 seconds a year thanks to an integrated thermo-compensating circuit which automatically and permanently reduces the variations. The movement is fitted with a perpetual calendar programmed until 2100 which displays the date in a window is at 3 o’clock.

Technical details
Movement
Very High Precision quartz (± 1 min. in 5 years)
10-year battery, EOL indicator

Functions
Perpetual calendar (date at 3 o’clock programmed until 2100)

Case
Polished stainless steel
Cambered anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Screw-down back
Water-resistant to 200 m

Dial
Black or white
Luminescent hands

Bracelet/Strap
Polished stainless steel
Triple security clasp

Other versions
Brushed steel

EPOS Tonneau Quantième

Equipped with a Swiss made 9000DD automatic movement based on an ETA 2892-A2 caliber, this stainless steel watch from EPOS displays full calendar functions with a central date hand, day and month windows at 12 o’clock, and moon phases at 6 o’clock. The watch has a matt black dial and features a transparent back.

Technical details

Movement
Calibre 9000DD automatic, based on an ETA 2892-A2 movement

Functions
Calendar (date, day, month, moon phases)

Case
316L steel
Transparent caseback
Water-resistant to 50 m

Dial
Matt black with white numbers

Strap
Leather

Hermès Belt Watch

Launched in 1999, this watch creation from Hermès is inspired by the design of the brand’s belt buckles and reproduces the tang at 12 o’clock. Smooth, rectangular and unpretentious, this ladies’ watch was supplied with two interchangeable leather straps available in large range of textures and colours.

Hermès Belt Watch Circa 1999

Technical details

Movement
Quartz

Functions
Hours, minutes

Case
Steel or 750 (18K) gold
Sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 30 m

Dial
White

Bracelet/Strap
2 per model
Natural pigskin, matt black alligator or various colours of calfskin and crocodile leather

Links

Oris Jazz Watch Lionel Hampton Limited Edition

This limited edition watch was released in 1999 as a tribute to legendary jazz musician Lionel Hampton (April 20, 1908 – August 31, 2002).

As a befitting tribute to the undisputed king of the vibraphone, each of this special edition mechanical watch is individually numbered and embellished with his signature.

The Lionel Hampton watch with rectangular stainless-steel case comes in two sizes, each in an edition of 200 pieces, all numbered individually from 001/200 to 200/200.

Oris Jazz Watch Lionel Hampton Limited Edition

The men’s size is, in addition, available with a PVD-plated case (reference 583 7497 45 84 LS) in a limited edition of 20 pieces. The whole series features the imprint “Lionel Hampton” on the black dial and his signature on the back of the case. The C.I.T.E.S. emblem on the black crocodile leather strap testifies to the use of hides from non-protected species.

The Oris Lionel Hampton Jazz Watch is equipped with Calibre 583. Introduced in 1997, this self-winding movement is based on the ETA 2688/2671 calibre.

As a special tribute, every purchase of the jazz watch was accompanied by a CD of live recordings from the 50th Lionel Hampton Anniversary concert at Carnegie Hall.

Technical details

Model: Oris Jazz Watch Lionel Hampton Limited Edition 1999

Versions
Ref. 583 7497 40 84 LS: Limited series of 200 units, all individually numbered
Ref. 583 7460 40 84 LS: Limited series of 200 units, all individually numbered
Ref. 583 7497 45 84 LS: Limited series of 20 units, all individually numbered.

Case
Stainless steel case
Rectangular shape
Dimensions: 41.5mm x 29 mm x 10.5 mm (men’s watch models 583 7497 40 84 LS and 583 7497 45 84 LS)
Stainless-steel screw back signed by Lionel Hampton
Limited edition numbering on the case back
Water resistance: 30 meters

Dial
Black dial with luminous Arabic numerals
Central hands for the hour, minute and seconds
Date at 6 o’clock
Hour and minute hands with luminescent treatment

Movement
Mechanical automatic movement, Oris calibre 583
Base ETA 2688/2671
Ø 19.40 mm, 8 3/4”’
Bi-directional automatic winding, ball bearing,
17 jewels, Incabloc, 28’800 A/h, 4 Hz, power-reserve 38 h, fine timing device, centre hands for hours, minutes and seconds, date window, instantaneous date, date corrector.

Strap
Genuine black crocodile leather strap

Other features
Official Oris Certificate
Box includes Lionel Hampton’s CD Live at Carnegie Hall “50th Anniversary Concert”

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Grand Guichet

Introduced in 1999, the Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Grand Guichet watch features an oversized date window at 12’o clock. The innovative date display mechanism, comprising two independent rotating discs, was developed by in-house.

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Grand Guichet

The timepiece is equipped with the ML 58 calibre based on the ETA 2892-2 automatic movement. Two superimposed, independently rotating disks display the two digits of the date through a double central window positioned at 12 o’clock. This creates double the display area and provides excellent readability. The Grand Guichet model also displays a small seconds at 6 o’ clock.

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Grand Guichet MP6418-PG101-290 (pink gold version)
Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Grand Guichet MP6418-PG101-290 (pink gold version)

Available in steel, pink gold and bimetallic versions, Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Grand Guichet features solid silver dial, sapphire crystal glass and sapphire crystal case-back.

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Grand Guichet MP6378-SS001-920
Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Grand Guichet MP6378-SS001-920

Technical details

Model: Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Grand Guichet

Movement
Automatic ML 58 calibre, developed on the ETA 2892-2 calibre
Date displayed by 2 independent discs
Hand-decorated movement, 26 jewels, blued steel screws, Incabloc shock protection, polished steel pallet and escapement wheel, Glucydur balance wheel, skeleton rotor.

Case
Stainless steel, 18K Pink Gold or Bimetallic (steel and 18K pink gold)
Diameter: 40mm
Transparent back
Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 50 m

Dial
Solid silver 925
Large date window at 12 o’clock
Small seconds at 6 o’clock

Strap
Louisiana crocodile leather strap

References
MP6378-SS001-290: Stainless steel version
MP6378-PS101-290: Bi-metallic version
MP6418-PG101-290: 18K Pink Gold version
MP6378-SS001-920: Stainless steel version with Arabic numerals at 3 & 9

Seiko Spring Drive Hand-wound Limited Edition, References SBWA001 and SBWA002

Seiko Spring Drive is a mechanical watch having accuracy equivalent to a quartz watch. This innovative technology was announced by Seiko at the 1998 Basel Fair. The first Seiko branded Spring Drive wristwatch models to be introduced into the market were SBWA001 and SBWA002.

Traditionally, the energy source of a mechanical timepiece is the mainspring and the regulating components are the balance spring and the escapement. The Spring Drive is powered by a mainspring just like a mechanical watch, but adopts an electronic speed-regulating unit comprising a generator, IC circuit, and crystal oscillator.

In 1999, the Japanese watchmaker introduced two Seiko Spring Drive watches: An 18K yellow gold version with a suggested retail price of 500,000 yen and a stainless steel case model with a suggested retail price of 250,000 yen (both excluding tax) for a limited period. Both belong to the world’s first wristwatch line-up equipped with a Spring Drive mechanism. In the same year, a Credor Spring Drive watch was also launched.

Limited to 500 pieces, the Spring Drive reference SBWA001 watch features a stainless steel case, matching metal bracelet and black dial. The 18K gold Seiko Spring Drive model (reference SBWA002) was limited to 300 pieces. It features a silver dial and crocodile leather strap. Both timepieces are equipped with the Cal. 7R68 Spring Dive manual-winding movement.

Seiko Spring Drive 18K Gold, Reference SBWA002
Seiko Spring Drive 18K Gold, Reference SBWA002

While a general mechanical movement mechanically adjusts the time accuracy, the spring drive Cal. 7R68 utilizes a crystal oscillator (like a quartz watch) for regulating. As a result, the time accuracy of a spring drive watch is within ±15 seconds per month (equivalent to within ±1 second per day), which is comparable to that of a quartz watch.

At 10 o’clock on the dial, there is a power reserve indicator that shows the remaining drive duration. Spring dive watch features smoother sweeping-seconds hand, which is different from ordinary mechanical watches and quartz watches. The spring drive Caliber 7R68 also displays the date function at 3 o’clock. Equipped with 30 jewels, this movement provides a power reserve of 48 hours.

Seiko Spring Drive Stainless Steel, Reference SBWA001
Seiko Spring Drive Stainless Steel, Reference SBWA001

The beautiful movement with the Côtes de Genève pattern and the smooth rotation of the rotor are visible through the see-through case back. Both models were issued in a special luxury box for each type. Inside the box is a plate with a limited edition serial number.

Technical details

Collection: Seiko Spring Drive

Movement
7R68 caliber
Winding method: Hand-wound
Time accuracy: Monthly difference within ± 15 seconds (equivalent to daily difference within ± 1 second)
Power reserve: About 48 hours
Number of jewels: 30
Movement diameter: 29.0 mm
Movement thickness: 3.5mm

Functions
Hour, minute and centre seconds
Date at 3 o’clock
Power reserve indicator

Model: Seiko Spring Drive 18K Gold, Reference SBWA002

Case
18K yellow gold
Glass dual curve sapphire glass with double-sided anti-reflective coating
See-through back (sapphire glass)

Band
Crocodile with 18K yellow gold buckle

Edition
Limited to 300 pieces

Model: Seiko Spring Drive Stainless Steel, Reference SBWA001

Case
Stainless steel
Glass dual curve sapphire glass with double-sided anti-reflective coating
See-through back (inorganic glass)

Band
Stainless steel

Edition
Limited to 500 pieces