This past weekend, Christie’s Hong Kong realised a combined sale total exceeding HK$202 million / US$26 million / EUR 25 million, marking the second consecutive year for Christie’s Asia of exceeding an annual sale total of HK$500 million(US$ 64 million / EUR 61.9 million) in watch sales.
The auction saw strong global participation from 40 countries; 55% of new buyers are millennials. The Important Watches featuring The Triazza Collection, Part I achieved a total sale of HK$121,822,260 / US$15.6 million / EUR 15.1 million. The Champion Collection, Part VI: The Finest Watchmaking achieved a total sale of HK$80,356,741/US$10.3 million / EUR 9.9 million
The impressive results achieved by ‘Métiers d’Art’ pieces that elevate a craft to the level of art, especially that of enamelling, testify to the growing desirability of timepieces that uniquely combine mechanical perfection and sublime artistry.
Patek Philippe Ref.5208P-001 Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Also, the two world records set by Patek Philippe, with the Ref.5208P-001minute repeater perpetual calendar chronograph in platinum fetching more than HK$ 10 million (US$ 1.2 million / EUR 1.2 million) as the top lot of the sale, and the Ref. 5073P-001, a minute repeater perpetual calendar set with baguette-cut diamonds achieving over HK$ 13.6 million (close to US 1.3 million /close to EUR 1.7 million).
The Champion Collection is a testament to the determination and dedication it takes to bring pieces together and curate them into a living entity, always evolving and growing to reflect the personality of its owner.
Here are the world record-breaking results and highlights from The Champion Collection, Part VI:
Lot 2282: Patek Philippe: An important and highly complicated automatic minute repeating, instantaneous perpetual calendar single-button chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, leap year and day/night indications. Ref. 5208P-001. Circa 2014. Price realised: HK$10,050,000/ US$1,292,600. World Record.
Lot 2258: An extremely rare, limited edition ladies Patek Philippe automatic World Time: 18k rose gold with diamond-set bezel and cloisonné enameldial depicting Lake Geneva commemorating the Maison’s 175th anniversary. Ref. 7131/175R. Circa 2015. Price realised: HK$2,772,000 US$356,526. World Record.
Lot 2259: A very rare 18k white gold limited edition automatic Patek Philippe; cloisonné enamel dial by Anita Porchet with a lateen sailboat on Lake Geneva to commemorate the 175th anniversary of Patek Philippe. Ref. 5089G-037. Circa 2015. Price realised: HK$2,016,000/ US$259,292. World Record.
Lot 2268: A platinum limited edition automatic Patek Philippe with a cloisonné enamel dial by Anita Porchet featuring a butterfly. Ref. 5077P-015. Circa 2009. Price realised: HK 1,638,000/US$210,674. World Record.
Lot 2279: A very rare and elegant 18k white gold minute repeating Patek Philippe tourbillon wristwatch with black enamel dial and Breguet numerals. Ref. 5539G-001 .Circa 2014. Price realised: HK$5,040,000 / US$646,102. World Record.
Here is a selection of the sale highlights from Important Watches featuring The Triazza Collection, Part I. All 218 lots offered at auction were sold.
Lot 2519: Extremely rare and magnificent, a platinum and baguette-cut diamond-set automatic “cathedral” minute repeating perpetual calendar Patek Philippe with moon phases, 24-hour and leap year indications. Ref. 5073P-001. Circa 2014. Price Realised: HK$13,650,000 / US$1,755,622. World Record.
Lot 2523: An extremely rare, limited edition ladies Patek Philippe automatic World Time: 18k rose gold with diamond-set bezel and cloisonné enameldial depicting Lake Geneva commemorating the Maison’s 175th anniversary. Ref. 7131/175R. Circa 2015. Price realised: HK$7,812,000 US$1,004,756.
Lot 2522: Possibly unique and historically important 18k gold tourbillon keyless Patek Philippe pocket watch from 1924 with white enamel dial, Breguet hands and numerals, with antimagnetic observatory contest case and sector-dial. First Prize at the Geneva Observatory contest in 1931. Price realised: HK$5,922,000/ US$761,670.
Lot 2419: F.P. Journe, a rare 18k rose gold and silver limited edition tourbillon wrist-watch with gilt brass movement; made to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the famed Maison. Only 99 pieces were produced. Circa 2014. Price realized: HK 3,024,000/ US$388,937.
Lot 2313: A very rare 18k white gold, diamond and sapphire-set Rolex Daytona automatic chronograph wrist-watch. Ref. 116589. Price realised: HK$2,268,000 / US$291,703.
Lot 2369: Cartier, a rarely seen asymmetrical wristwatch “Crash” model in platinum with manual movement and silvered dial signed “Paris”. Price realised: HK$2,646,000 / US$340,320
Swiss luxury watch brand Rolex has announced a new program that allows the customers to purchase genuine pre-owned watches from its Official retailers.
Certified as Authentic and guaranteed by the brand, these timepieces benefit from the exacting quality criteria inherent to all Rolex products and from a two-year international guarantee, valid from their date of resale in the Rolex Network.
The Rolex Certified Pre-Owned programme enables retailers in the brand’s official distribution network to sell second-hand models that are certified as authentic and which come with a new two-year international guarantee.
@Rolex SA
Rolex Certified Pre-Owned watches will initially be available at Bucherer boutiques insix countries (Switzerland, Austria, Germany, France, Denmark and the UK) from the start of December 2022. Other Official Rolex Retailers who choose to be part of this programme will be able to do so from spring 2023.
The Rolex Certified Pre-Owned programme attests the authenticity of second-hand Rolex watches – that are least three years old – at their time of resale by an Official Retailer displaying the special Rolex Certified Pre-Owned plaque. It guarantees that these watches benefit from the quality criteria inherent to all Rolex products and from the full know-how and professionalism of the brand’s worldwide network of experts.
The Rolex Certified Pre-Owned seal that accompanies the watches concerned symbolizes their status as certified second-hand Rolex watches.
The Rolex Certified Pre-Owned guarantee card, delivered at the time of the sale, officially confirms that the watch is genuine and guarantees its proper functioning. This card bears the words “Certified Pre-Owned” and serves as an official certificate of authenticity.
Following the success of the auction held in New York this past June, which totaled US$21,743,070, Christie’s presents the New York Important Watches on December 8th. This will be a Live Auction comprising 117 lots, featuring fine vintage and modern horological masterpieces from the world’s most reputable and desirable brands.
Vintage highlights from Patek Philippe include a very rare and attractive 18k rose gold wristwatch with a captivating cloisonné enamel dial featuring a Viking longship, manufactured in 1950, and an extraordinarily rare 18k yellow gold Nautilus Ref. 3700 with a diamond-set bezel from 1980.
Other classic treasures include an attractive 18k gold Rolex Daytona Ref. 6265 along with one of the rarest sport watches produced by Tudor, the “Big Crown” Reference 7924, which was in production for one year only between 1958 and 1959.
More modern timepieces include a number of Patek Philippe desirable green dial references: the striking grande complication 5270P-014 and the Nautilus 5711-014. There will also be a limited-edition Richard Mille Ref. RM67-02 “Alexander Zverev” as well as a Vacheron Constantin platinum minute repeating wristwatch, which was produced in a limited edition of only 10 examples.
Moreover, the sale will present a Single Owner collection of highly desirable Patek Philippe references retailed by Tiffany & Co. as well as a selection of very attractive and rare skeleton, gem and diamond-set, or hardstone dial timepieces.
New York Important Watches – Top Lots
Lot 113: Audemars Piguet Ref. 26591TI.OO.1252TI.02, Royal Oak. A very fine and extremely rare titanium minute repeater supersonnerie wristwatch, limited to 35 examples.
Audemars Piguet reference 26591TI is one of the most impressive and rare timepieces from the contemporary Royal Oak family. Released without fanfare in 2021 in only 35 examples, this model of the iconic Royal Oak has been crafted in a large 42mm case with a beautiful salmon tapisserie dial. With its large case and bracelet, one would expect a heavy presence on the wrist.
This timepiece weighs at a mere 124 grams thanks to its titanium construction. Furthermore, a minute repeating supersonnerie has been integrated in the timepiece. The titanium case gives the complication’s chime a unique tonal resonance.
Estimate: US$350,000-550,000
Lot 46: Patek Philippe. A very fine, rare and attractive 18k rose gold wristwatch with cloisonné enamel dial, manufactured in 1950.
Wristwatches fitted with cloisonné enamel dials take a most prominent position in terms of beauty, craftsmanship, and rarity. Produced mostly in the 1940s and 50s, Patek Philippe made an exceedingly small number of “time only” wristwatches where highly detailed and incredibly artistic cloisonné enamel dials were fitted.
Only an extremely small number of watches were upgraded with these wonderful dials, depicting popular motifs such as a jungle, a lighthouse and sail boats, flowers, portraits, and maps.
The present dial was crafted to special order in 1950, and was, most likely, originally delivered to France, to be housed in a French-manufactured case.
After World War II, this was quite common practice in alignment with the post-war economic effort. Importing foreign jewellery was prohibited in France, so many Swiss makers had their cases made in France, often after their own Swiss model.
Given these constraints, Patek Philippe worked closely with French firms such as Guillermin, providing dials and movements under the agreement that Patek Philippe standards would be upheld.
This watch was sold previously at Christie’s in 2005 and has remained well-preserved with the present consignor.
Today, most of the vintage wristwatches by Patek Philippe fitted with cloisonné enamel dials are either in the world’s most important and exclusive private collections, or permanently showcased in the firm’s museum in Geneva.
Estimate: US$200,000-400,000
Lot 108: Patek Philippe Ref. 3700, Nautilus. An extremely rare and attractive 18k yellow gold and diamond-set bracelet watch with date. Manufactured in 1980.
The present lot may be one of the rarest Nautilus watches to exist. According to research, this watch is the second reference 3700/4 to ever appear at auction.
In addition to the present lot’s rarity with a well- preserved case and bracelet crafted from 18k yellow gold, the bezel is factory embellished with 72 glamorous diamonds. Typically, stones are set directly on top of the bezel, but reference 3700/4 has them placed on the outer bevel.
Estimate: US$230,000-330,000
Lot 72: Rolex Ref. 6265, Daytona. A very fine and rare 18k yellow gold chronograph wristwatch. Manufactured in 1981.
Four-digit Rolex Daytona’s are some of the most desirable and collectible wristwatches, and reference 6265 is no exception. The timepiece is constructed from 18k yellow gold and has a screw-down crown and pushers to ensure a water-tight seal.
The watch has a matte black dial and gold registers that complement the 18k yellow gold case. This gold and black combination provides a striking, beautiful contrast.
Another interesting and distinctive feature about Reference 6265 is the “Oyster” text below Rolex. It is in larger type and “Perpetual” is absent because the watch is manually wound. The sporty 18k yellow gold case measures 37mm in diameter.
Estimate: US$160,000-260,000
Lot 67 – Tudor “Big Crown” Reference 7924.This reference was manufactured only in 1958 and 1959.
With serial numbers ranging from 275XXX to 295XXX, reference 7924 is an exceptionally rare watch and a grail among vintage watch collectors worldwide. Reference 7924 was Tudor’s most capable dive watch in the late 1950’s thank to its thick, robust, stainless steel case and oversized 8mm crown.
Rated to 200 meters/660 feet, the 7924 was the brand’s offering alongside Rolex Reference 6538 and Reference 5510. In fact, aside from the movement and dial, Tudor reference 7924 is identical to its iconic Rolex “Big Crown” brothers.
The present lot reference is the only vintage big crown produced in a series by Tudor. It is also the last “No Crown Guard” 200 meter depth rated dive watch made by the brand.
Estimate: US$60,000-100,000
Lot 22: Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1A-014, Nautilus. A very rare and highly desirable green dial, steel bracelet watch with date.
The present lot, reference 5711/1A-014, commemorates the final “victory lap” of the Nautilus Reference 5711. It is the last steel 5711 and it was produced only for one year in very limited numbers, already makes this an extremely exclusive watch.
What differentiates the reference 5711/1A-014 is the olive green dial: It is the only Nautilus to sport a dial in this very subtle green tone.
The case has a standard three-part construction rather than the original monobloc case, allowing for easier serviceability and a sapphire case back to view the in-house Calibre324 S C. The timepiece has a date complication with white gold hands and hour markers.
Estimate: US$200,000-400,000
Lot 117: Patek Philippe Ref. 5270P-014. A very fine and rare platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, leap year, day/night indicator, and green dial.
From enthusiasts to collectors alike, all eyes were captured at Baselworld 2011 with the introduction of Patek Philippe reference 5270. The timepiece marked the latest iteration from the legendary Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph family that began with Reference 1518 in 1941.
Reference 5270 sets itself apart from its predecessor (Ref. 5970) with a case diameter increased to 41mm and a case thickness decreased by 1mm. The in-house Calibre CH 29-535 PS Q’s additional complication of a day/night indicator further highlights the engineering prowess. The subsidiary registers are, quite playfully, lowered just below the central axis.
The present lot, reference 5270P-014, is among the latest 2022 releases from the perpetual calendar chronograph family. Besides the bold and beautiful green dial, Patek Philippe has opted for a new style of pointed dauphine-style hands; broad and faceted, they resemble the hour markers on the dial. The outer tachymeter scale has also been omitted in favour of a “sporty” minute ring that gives the watch a cleaner aesthetic.
Estimate: US$200,000-330,000
Lot 99: Richard Mille Ref. RM67-02 “Alexander Zverev”. A very fine and rare tonneau-shaped wristwatch, number 297 in a limited edition of 497 examples.
Made to withstand the forces produced in high-intensity activities, the Richard Mille RM67-02 collection includes the perfect watches for super athletes. The present lot was made in collaboration with German tennis superstar Alexander Zverev who personally wears this model while playing tennis. It is distinguished by the use of red and gold accents in the mid case, echoing the colours found on the flag of Germany.
The present timepiece has a comfortable thickness of 7.8mm and an impressive weight of only 32 grams, which includes the strap. It is the lightest strap the brand has ever produced.
The incredible feather-light weight can be attributed to the patented Carbon and Quartz TPT (Thin Ply Technology) and titanium used to create the case. The rotor of the automatic-winding calibre is visible through the skeletonised movement. The watch comes with a seamless elastic stretch strap.
Estimate: US$180,000-350,000
Lot 79: F.P. Journe, Octa Réserve de Marche. A very rare and early 18k rose gold wristwatch with date, power reserve, and brass movement.
Introduced in 2001, the Octa Réserve de Marche was F.P. Journe’s first automatic wristwatch following the legendary Tourbillion and Résonance. During the 2001-2014 production period of the Octa Réserve de Marche, approximately 800 pieces were created, making this an extremely rare and coveted timepiece.
The present lot’s collectability is furthered by a brass movement that is only found in Journe’s earliest work; it is quite distinct from the contemporary red gold movements which have since become synonymous with the brand.
The dial has begun to develop a light patina, which is normal and highly desirable in Journe’s earliest work. This is due, at the time, to the work-in-progress in mastering dial lacquering. The present lot has a 38mm yellow gold case.
Estimate: US$120,000-220,000
A collection of Patek Philippe Watches retailed by Tiffany & Co.
The sale will be hosting a Single Owner collection of highly desirable Patek Philippe references retailed by Tiffany &Co.
Lot 106 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5990/1A-001, Nautilus. A very rare steel travel time flyback chronograph bracelet watch with date and day/night indicators, signed and retailed by Tiffany &Co.
Introduced in 1976, the design of the Patek Philippe Nautilus was inspired by a ship’s portholes. The original reference 3700 was constructed with a monobloc case, replicating the way portholes were opened on vessels.
The present lot, reference 5990/1A-001, dates to 2018. It is one of the most functional watches from the Nautilus line, and greatly favoured by collectors.
The watch features a travel time function with disguised pushers that are found in the left “ear” of the case. The pushers adjust a second time zone hand that can be jumped forwards and backwards by the hour. An ingenious touch: When a second time zone is not necessary, that hand can be discreetly tucked out of sight behind the primary hour hand.
The watch also features day/night indicators to correspond with the hands. The case of this complicated wristwatch measures in at 40.5mm and is crafted from steel. The iconic “Tiffany & Co.” signature is subtly placed near the 6 o’clock register.
The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV held on 28 and 29 November 2022, achieved a total sale of over HK$182 million/ US$23 million, exceeding the pre-sale high estimate and bringing the annual total to HK$446 million/ US$57 million, the highest ever achieved by the Phillips Watch department in the region.
The star lot of the sale was the Patek Philippe ref. 2499, which realised over HK$10 million/ US$1.3 million. Another highlight was the Patek Philippe ref. 2508, which sold for HK$756,000, eight times its pre-sale low estimate, showing the Asian market’s strong interest in vintage watches.
Phillips also offered a wide selection of rare creations from the independent watchmakers. The Philippe Dufour Simplicity white gold wristwatch achieved four times its pre-sale low estimate, and the Roger Smith Series 2 in pink gold was sold for three times its pre-sale low estimate.
Top 12 Lots of the Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV
(1) Lot 858: Patek Philippe, Ref. 2499, yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch. Circa 1953
(6) Lot 826: Patek Philippe, Ref. 5650G-001 limited edition white gold semi-skeletonized dual-time wristwatch, one of a limited edition of 500 pieces. Circa 2017
(9) Lot 894: Audemars Piguet, Ref. 26620IO.OO.D077CA.01, titanium semi-skeletonized flying tourbillon wristwatch, one of a limited edition of 250 pieces. Circa 2021
(12) Lot 894: Audemars Piguet Ref. 26620IO.OO.D077CA.01, Titanium semi-skeletonized flying tourbillon wristwatch with hand-painted white gold Marvel Black Panther 3D figure, one of a limited edition of 250 pieces, Circa 2021
Four years after winning the Innovation Prize at the 2018 GPHG for its first creation, Everywhere, independent Swiss watch brand Krayon wins the Calendar and Astronomy Prize at this year’s edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève for its second masterpiece, Anywhere.
A first in watchmaking, Krayon Anywhere indicates the length of the day and the time of sunrise and sunset, wherever you choose to be on Earth.
Launched in 2020, Anywhere is a bespoke ephemeris created by Rémi Maillat, an engineer and a watch designer, and the founder of Krayon. An ideal of both serene artistry and technical sophistication with its 432 components, its exceptional dial blends engineering prowess and contemporary artistic inspiration.
Krayon Anywhere Métiers d’Art Azur
With the new Anywhere Métiers d’Art Azur watch, Krayon exemplifies its commitment to preserving the high level of craftsmanship that for more than four centuries has defined watchmaking and timepiece decoration through the mastery of technique, materials and savoir-faire.
A tribute to the métiers d’art, its outward appearance is intimately intertwined with the idea of discovery and an inner journey.
An elegant timepiece in 950 platinum, which again demonstrates, with a degree of hand finishing elevated to an exceptional level, all the savoir-faire embodied by independent Swiss watchmaker Krayon.
Phillips presents the full catalogue for The New York Watch Auction: SEVEN, showcasing nearly 180 rare and important timepieces. The highlights include a Cartier London Crash, the early F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain numbered 038/99T, and a rare F.P.Journe Tourbillon Souverain in Platinum with Salmon Dial and the only known Patek Philippe ref. 2499 retailed by Howes.
Following the success of the world tour, the watches will be unveiled in New York at 432 Park Avenue in the public exhibition opening on 3 December 2022. The auction will then take place over the course of two days on 10-11 December.
Among the top lots of the auction is the only known Patek Philippe ref. 2499 with a dial double signed by the American retailer, Howes, in exceptionally well-preserved condition.
Patek Philippe Ref. 2499, Retailed by Howes
The other highlights include one of only thirty-five examples of a George Daniels Anniversary Watch in yellow gold, a vintage Omega Speedmaster originally issued to NASA, and the very first example of the reloaded Urwerk UR-102 as part of TimeForArt.
The auction will also present a special chapter of 10 lots dedicated to Grand Seiko, with a unique Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon leading the collection.
Highlights
Patek Philippe, Ref. 2499, Retailed by Howes, Possibly Unique, 1973
This Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 (lot 127) is a remarkably well-preserved example. It is one of the most important third series ref. 2499 to appear on the market. Making its first appearance since it was sold at public auction over two decades ago, it has resided untouched in an important American collection since then.
Signed by the American retailer Howes, it is the only Howes-signed reference 2499 known, and thus one of the rarest ref. 2499s to ever be offered. The American import mark of “HOX” is stamped on the inside caseback, as well as the “18K” hallmark on the exterior of the caseback.
Estimate: $400,000 – 800,000
George Daniels, 35th Anniversary Watch
This watch (lot 110) marks the 35th anniversary of Daniels’ invention of the Co-axial escapement. Together with Roger W. Smith, only 35 examples were made in yellow gold, and the present example with serial number 09 is offered by the original owner in exceptional original condition. With its perfectly balanced, symmetrical 40mm diameter layout, it gives a sense of order and serenity. A large gold ring engraved with black Roman numerals is further anchored by two small sub-dials indicating the date and seconds on the dial.
This watch comes with an exceptionally finished engine-turned dial featuring a fan-shaped power-reserve indication beneath 12 o’clock, and the coveted signature of ‘DANIELS’ at 6 o’clock.
The escapement within uses a single wheel Daniels Co-axial escapement perfected by Roger W. Smith, where the upper and lower wheels of Daniels’ original design were combined into one escape wheel with added teeth. The design permitted the wheel to be fabricated in a single operation and removed a potential error source.
Estimate: $400,000 – 1,000,000
Patek Philippe, Ref. 5275P, Made for the 175th Anniversary of Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe celebrated its 175th anniversary in 2014 by releasing a collection of six limited edition timepieces. Combining taste, technical mastery, and incredible rarity, they are a masterful representation of Patek Philippe’s excellence in watchmaking, with the reference 5275P being amongst the collection’s most complicated and impressive offerings.
With just 175 examples in existence, the reference 5275P is a modern chiming Jump Hour wristwatch that took four years of research and development to create.
The new caliber 32-650 HGS PS represents a remarkable high-complication mechanism, with the jump hour requiring precise power and energy management to permit its functions to advance in sync. The result is that all time indications advance by instantaneous jump intervals, rather than a constant movement.
The Patek Philippe 5275P measures 40mm in diameter and 45mm from lug to lug and is most appreciated by connoisseurs for its loud and crisp chiming mechanism that is perfectly synchronized to the time.
Consigned by the original owner and fresh-to-the market, this Patek 5275P platinum watch (lot 20) is offered complete with the original Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin and its accompanying set of accessories.
Estimate: $300,000 – 600,000
A Complete Set of Patek Philippe Ref. 5131s
Phillips is offering an entire set (lots 37-40) of Patek Philippe’s superb cloisonné enamel dial world time wristwatches, produced beginning in 2008. With reference 5131, Patek Philippe resurrected the line of Cloisonné world time pieces, which originally appeared in the 1950s and are now considered amongst the masterpieces of the brand.
Launched originally in yellow gold, the reference was produced in the three gold colors and in platinum. In 2021, the last scion of reference 5131 (the platinum version) was discontinued, officially sanctioning the end of this landmark reference. Offered as individual lots and fully complete, the set is consigned by the original owner, an important collector of Patek Philippe watches, who purchased each when they were launched.
Estimates
Patek Philippe Ref. 5131/1P-001 in platinum: $100,000 – 200,000
Patek Philippe Ref. 5131R in pink gold: $70,000 – 140,000
Patek Philippe Ref. 5131J in yellow gold: $60,000 – 120,000
Patek Philippe Ref. 5131G in white gold: $70,000 – 140,000
Patek Philippe, Ref. 5070J “Special Order”, Possibly Unique, 2011
The Patek Philippe reference 5070 was the first chronograph-only wristwatch released by the firm since the 1960s when production of the iconic water-resistant reference 1463 ceased.
Introduced in 1998 at Basel, Ref. 5070 comes with an oversized 42mm case diameter and a dramatically thick, stepped bezel. The present example (lot 56) is a most probably unique, and the only one known to feature a superb and radiant brown, luminous dial and Breguet hour markers. Another extraordinary detail on the dial is the subtle monogram, ‘MSO’, presented at 6 o’clock. For Patek Philippe to permit a monogram on the dial, one’s importance to the brand must be truly significant.
Discontinued since 2009, the reference houses Patek Philippe’s manual-winding caliber CH 27-70, based upon a highly modified Lemania 2310 ébauche. Considered one of the finest chronograph movement designs of all-time, the movement is extremely well-finished – stamped with the Geneva Seal, while providing an impressive 60 hours of power reserve.
This reference 5070 is offered for the first time at auction, preserved in overall outstanding condition and offered with its Certificate of Origin and fitted box. It features a 42mm stepped case and brown dial.
Estimate: $80,000 to $200,000
URWERK, Reloaded UR-102
One of the 17 timepieces being offered in TimeForArt with all proceeds benefitting Swiss Institute, in this remarkable pièce unique, Cooper Jacoby reinterprets one of the most iconic and decisive URWERK timepieces: the UR-102 in its reloaded version.
This singular watch (lot 112) is the very first specimen of the coming URWERK UR-102 reloaded collection. It features an hour satellite wandering along a minute track displaying time in both analogue and digital formats. On the face of this unique timepiece, using thermochromic pigments, Jacoby visualizes one of the body’s most essential regulatory systems: temperature.
In eye-catching shades of blue, green, yellow, and orange, the watch face chromatically corresponds to changes in body and atmosphere temperatures, ensuring that this piece is in a state of constant flux.
Estimate: $40,000 – 80,000
Omega, Speedmaster Ref. 145.012, Originally Issued to NASA
This extraordinary Omega Speedmaster was originally issued to NASA, and only the second reference 145.012 Speedmaster ever offered at public auction with a NASA serial number inscribed.
The remarkable engravings on the caseback and central case band are only found on Speedmasters destined for one organization – NASA, making it amongst the rarest and most coveted of all vintage Speedmasters.
Furthermore, it is only 6 numbers away from a similar reference 145.012-68 worn by Michael Collins (1930 – 2021) during the storied Apollo 11 mission.
The watch (lot 169) is accompanied by two Omega extracts, one signed by James H. Ragan, who was a NASA Program Manager and an aerospace engineer. The extract confirms the watch was delivered to NASA via Norman Morris, Omega’s US distributor at the time.
Estimate: $75,000 – 150,000
Cartier, London Crash in 18 Karat Yellow Gold, circa 1970
Amongst the top lots of the December auction is a Cartier London Crash, made in 1970, offered directly from the family of the original owner. The famed Crash watch, with its amazing, dream-like curved form, is Cartier’s most radical watch design.
The watch being offered at Phillips is part of a very limited number of examples produced by Cartier London, featuring London hallmarks on the case back interior, and its original Cartier deployant buckle with similar London hallmarks also dating it to 1970 – both further stamped ‘JC’ for Jean-Jacques Cartier. A possibly unique and unusual aspect of this particular example is the “Swiss Movement” engraved to the case back, a feature not seen on other examples.
This Cartier Crash is offered for the first time ever by a descendant of the original owner, Daphne Farago. Along with her husband Peter, Daphne was an esteemed art collector and recognized philanthropist with an intelligent eye for American folk art and furniture, contemporary craft, and jewellery. Today, her extraordinary jewellery collection is housed at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, donated in 2006.
Well-preserved in outstanding condition with a sharp case and remarkably well-preserved dial, this model is hardly ever seen at auction.
Estimate: $400,000-800,000
F.P. Journe, Tourbillon Souverain in Platinum with Salmon Dial, circa 1999
This extremely early and rare example of Journe’s Tourbillon with remontoir d’egalité is numbered 038, dating from 1999. The case back engraving style is typical of Journe’s earliest – extremely shallow and also extremely sought-after.
This particular example even exhibits what can be considered a rare error. On the caseback, it features an engraving ‘In . Fecit’ instead of ‘Inv. Fecit’.
An extremely small minority of these early tourbillons were fitted with pink gold dials, such as the present number 038, and have highly reflective traits.
According to experts, only six hand-made pink gold dials are known, with the dial exhibiting subtle stripes that attest to its hand-finished nature. Completely original, the dial’s printed text appears as though it is floating over the dial surface. Furthermore, it exhibits the remarkable sheen and luster found in Journe’s’ earliest dials that is today so coveted by collectors. Such early Journe dials often display beautiful variations of patina, taking on colors ranging from a rosé champagne color to a shimmering copper.
The present early Tourbillon Souverain number 038 with an extraordinary pink gold dial, extremely rare even in the rare pantheon of early Journe tourbillons, was purchased by the current consignor from the original owner in 2004. Having remained in the same collection for almost two decades, it is offered with guarantee and presentation box in exemplary condition.
Estimate: $300,000-600,000
Patek Philippe, Ref. 3998J-013 Hieroglyph “Helmut Newton” in 18 karat yellow gold, circa 2002
This unique Patek Philippe Calatrava features an extraordinary Egyptian hieroglyph dial. The present reference 3998J first appeared at public auction in June 2014 along with two other watches with hieroglyphs, another in yellow gold model and one in titanium. Prior to this auction appearance, no other Patek Philippe timepieces with Egyptian hieroglyph markers were known and no one had ever had them translated.
The choice of hieroglyphs is one of the most unusual and unique options ever found on any Patek Philippe dial. Given the absolute rarity of this dial type, it was certainly a special order by an extremely important Patek Philippe client. Close inspection of the dials of each watch reveals they each have unique hieroglyphic combinations and layouts.
Their placement puzzled watch enthusiasts, since they don’t follow the traditional hour marker pattern, with numerals placed around the outer edge of the dial. Phillips is now proud to present the translations of these hieroglyphs for the first time. The dial of the present lot spells out “HALMUT” at 6 o’clock, and “NAUTUN” at 12 o’clock, while the titanium example translates to “SAUD” at 6 o’clock and “AL TANI” at 12 o’clock.
The late Saud bin Muhammed Al Thani, a Qatari Prince who served as Minister of Culture, Arts and Heritage, was an avid art and watch collector, and the former owner of the famed Henry Graves Supercomplication, which he purchased during the 1999 Time Museum auction in New York City.
The present yellow gold 3998 represents a surprising discovery; however, when viewed in a broader context, one understands the decision for its creation. At the time of his death, the art collection Al Thani amassed in the span of about a decade was valued at $1.5 billion and included a diverse array of art and objects. Among his many interests was a sustained passion for photography, owning works by Richard Avedon, Irving Penn, Henri Cartier-Bresson, and, of course, Helmut Newton.
In fact, Al Thani and Helmut Newton had a working relationship, with the prince paying Newton $210,000 for a three-day commission. Following this project, one can extrapolate Al Thani most likely had the wristwatch made as a gift for Newton, but never presented it.
The “Helmut Newton” 3998J is a wonderful representation of Patek Philippe’s iconic Calatrava wristwatch. Moreover, it comes with a unique 3998J-013 reference number and Extract from the Archives confirming the Egyptian hieroglyph hour markers.
Estimate: $50,000-100,000
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT001, circa 2022
The chapter of the auction dedicated to Grand Seiko will feature 10 exceptional lots spanning vintage and modern watches from this highly respected Japanese luxury brand. A unique, one-of-one Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon – Grand Seiko’s very first mechanical complication – will lead the group.
At its heart is a uniquely innovative movement that delivers a level of stable accuracy unprecedented for Grand Seiko by combining a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism as one unit on a single axis for the first time in history. The watch is named Kodo, the Japanese word for heartbeat. Featuring an open-work design and sapphire case back, the distinctive nature of its motion and carefully designed sound can be admired at all times by its wearer.
The concept for the unique Kodo model to be sold exclusively by Phillips was based on musō 無双, which roughly translates to “one and only” or “second to none.” A fitting term for this one-of-a-kind piece, the Kodo SLGT001 differs in several important ways compared to the global model limited to 20 pieces, reference SLGT003.
First, the multi-component case structure is made of Grand Seiko’s proprietary alloy, Brilliant Hard Titanium. This material, which is used on only the outer case and outer construction of the bezel of SLGT003, is used for both the inner and exterior case components to reduce weight and achieve a comfortable feel.
Brilliant Hard Titanium is as light as pure titanium but twice as hard as stainless steel and, therefore, highly resistant to scratches. Its color is brighter than other forms of titanium used by Grand Seiko, allowing the Zaratsu polished surfaces to stand out more prominently.
The bridges, mainplate, and many of the components of the movement are plated in a silver color to create an entirely new aesthetic for the Kodo. A yellow-gold accent for the power reserve and seconds track of the carriage inherits the aesthetic of the T0 concept movement.
The GS letters are specially engraved by hand on the Brilliant Hard Titanium clasp by Grand Seiko’s very best engravers. The watch is offered with a unique, brown-colored calf strap specially treated in the same traditional way as was used to create the high-durability material once used in the armor of the Samurai. The strap’s surface is painted by hand with Urushi lacquer in a multi-coating process that gives the strap a delicate sheen.
Accompanying the unique piece Kodo SLGT001 will be an exclusive trip to Japan to meet its creators, the Grand Seiko team, and a visit to Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi in Japan’s Iwate prefecture.
Grand Seiko will be donating proceeds from the December auction to charity. The profit from the sale of select modern timepieces will be donated to the Fairchild Tropical Botanical Garden in Miami, Florida. For the piece-unique Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon, a portion of the sale will be donated to the Children’s Heart Foundation.
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo achieves a white glove sale, selling 100% of the lots offered in The Geneva Watch Auction: XVI, resulting in a grand total of CHF 44,979,370 / $45,073,827 / €45,249,246, more than doubling the pre-sale estimate of CHF 19.9 to 37.5 million.
Held over two days on 5 and 6 November 2022, this event offered the auction of a total number of 226 exceptional watches.
The star lot was the unique Spring Case Tourbillon in yellow gold by George Daniels, the founding father of independent watchmaking. This timepiece was sold to a bidder in the room for CHF 4,083,500. This marks the highest price ever achieved for a wristwatch by a British maker but also the second highest price achieved by an independent watchmaker.
GEORGE DANIELS Spring Case Tourbillon (Lot 27)
Daniels only made two unique wristwatches for his own personal use; one of these being this exact novel double-dialled spring case watch with one-minute tourbillon and calendar, completed in 1992.
The George Daniels yellow gold anniversary limited to 35 pieces was sold for CHF 693,000 / USD 694,455. The yellow gold George Daniels Millennium watch limited to 48 pieces achieved CHF 828,600.
The unique A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph “Hampton Court Edition” was sold for CHF 1,058,500, a world auction record for any A. Lange & Söhne watch at auction. The proceeds are going to The Prince’s Trust, including buyer’s premium.
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph Hampton Court Edition (Lot 209)
Fetching a world auction record for the model was the exceptional Philippe Dufour Simplicity in white gold, which eventually sold for CHF 1,022,200. With a case/dial configuration that has never been seen on the market before, this wristwatch features a slate grey dial, full pink gold Breguet numerals and pink gold hands.
Lot 20: Patek Philippe, Ref. 2499 – A yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon-phases and glossy black dial with gilt graphics. The only example known with Extract-confirmed black dial
Lot 209: A. LANGE & SÖHNE, Ref. 414.047, 1815 Chronograph “Hampton Court Edition” – A unique white gold flyback chronograph with hinged caseback with 100% of proceeds going to The Prince’s Trust
Estimate: CHF 100,000 – 200,000
Price Achieved: CHF 1,058,500/ $1,060,723/ €1,064,851 (world record for any A. Lange & Söhne)
Lot 232: PHILIPPE DUFOUR, Simplicity – An extremely rare and fine white gold wristwatch with guilloché dial, Breguet numerals, original certificate and presentation box
Estimate: CHF 350,000 – 700,000
Price Achieved: CHF 1,022,200/ $1,024,347/ €1,028,333 (world record for the reference)
Lot 214: PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 3974 – A so far unique, early, extremely important pink gold minute repeating wristwatch with perpetual calendar, moonphases, 24-hour indication, anthracite dial, Breguet numerals and Hagmann case
Estimate: CHF 300,000 – 600,000
Price Achieved: CHF 961,700/ $963,720/ €967,470
Lot 113: PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 530, “Monochrome Pink” – An extremely rare and well-preserved pink gold oversize chronograph wristwatch with pink dial, the only example known in this configuration
Estimate: CHF 300,000 – 600,000
Price Achieved: CHF 901,200/ $903,093/ €906,607
Lot 19: PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5070G-014 – An important and rare white gold chronograph wristwatch with Salmon dial, certificate of origin and presentation box
Estimate: CHF 200,000 – 400,000
Price Achieved: CHF 852,800/ $854,591/ €857,917(world record for the reference)
Lot 141: GEORGE DANIELS, Millenium – A yellow gold wristwatch with Co-axial escapement, date, correspondence from George Daniels and presentation box, part of a limited edition of 48 pieces
Estimate: CHF 250,000 – 500,000
Price Achieved: CHF 828,600/ $830,340/ €833,572 (world record for the reference)
Lot 161: ROLEX, Ref. 6264 – An extraordinarily rare yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman Lemon” dial, brown “tropical” subsidiary registers and outer track and service papers
Swiss luxury watch brand IWC Schaffhausen has opened its new flagship boutique at HKRI Taikoo Hui mall complex in Shanghai.
IWC’s new flagship boutique is located at the HKRI Taikoo Hui mall, West Nanjing Road, in the West Central Business District in Shanghai. After Zurich and Dubai, Shanghai marks the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer’s third global IWC flagship location.
Visitors are greeted by an impressive three-dimensional façade featuring an oversized Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Edition “Lake Tahoe”. Over more than 300 sq. m., they can immerse themselves into distinctively themed worlds and discover IWC’s iconic Pilot’s Watches, Portugieser and Portofino collections. This makes it the largest IWC boutique in the world in terms of square metres.
Adding a futuristic touch to the boutique is the presence of IWC’s partner Airspeeder, the world’s first racing series for electric flying cars. Visitors can take a seat in the cockpit of a “speeder” racing drone and enjoy a Mixed Reality (MR) flight through landscapes inspired by IWC’s “Colors of TOP GUN” Lake Tahoe, Woodland, Mojave Desert and Ceratanium®.
IWC’s new retail concept creates intelligent connections between the physical and virtual worlds. For example, an interactive display lets visitors deep-dive into IWC’s engineering heritage. They can learn more about the brand’s unique materials expertise, IWC-manufactured movements and complications.
All watch displays in the boutique feature Inspify touchscreen technology, allowing visitors to access a broad range of information about the timepieces on display, including product history, technical specifications, and customisation possibilities. A story portal with live social media feeds or a Portl hologram box adds to the digitally enhanced visitor experience.
The box will feature 3D appearances of IWC family members, such as free ski star Eileen Gu, Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS Formula One™ Team drivers Lewis Hamilton and George Russell, or legendary IWC watchmaker and inventor of the perpetual calendar, Kurt Klaus.
In addition, a mini programme on IWC’s WeChat account is dedicated to the new flagship boutique, enabling users to discover the boutique and take full advantage of its services. Visitors can, for example, get an overview of all flagship boutique features and services or take a virtual tour.
Also, for the first time, IWC has integrated a fully-fledged food and beverage concept into a flagship boutique.
At the “Big Pilot Bar,” visitors can enjoy delicious food, freshly brewed coffee or savoury cocktails – inside or on the outside terrace. The bar’s offer can also soon be enjoyed without a visit to the boutique. In addition, a huge background screen transforms the inside seating area into a space for events such as product presentations, Cyberloupe® watchmaking experiences or virtual tours of the IWC’s manufacturing centre in Schaffhausen.
At the 2022 Laureus Charity Night in Zurich, Switzerland, IWC Schaffhausen and Valentino Rossi team up for a special auction.
The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer and the nine-time Grand PrixTM motorcycling World Champion will donate Rossi’s personal IWC Big Pilot’s Watch in Ceratanium® to the auction, as well as invite the winning bidder to attend an exclusive experience at his famous VR46 Motor Ranch in Tavullia, Italy.
All proceeds from the auction will go to the Laureus Foundation Switzerland to support its various programmes for children and young people.
The Italian racer retired from motorcycle racing in 2021. During his 26-year career, Rossi won a record-breaking nine World Championships and claimed 235 podiums and 115 race wins. In 2022, the 43-year-old switched to the GT World Challenge Europe, starting a new chapter on four wheels.
Just recently, at the Laureus World Sports Awards 2022 in Seville, Rossi received the Laureus Sporting Icon Award, which further underscored the exceptional nature of his career.
At the occasion of Laureus Charity Night in Zurich, Rossi will also officially join the IWC family. The Italian athlete has been associated with the brand since last year and also made an appearance at an IWC Signature Talk at Watches and Wonders Geneva in April.
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Ceratanium® (Ref. IW503604)
This IWC-developed performance material is nearly as light and tough as titanium and almost equally as hard and scratch-resistant as ceramic. With a case diameter of 46 millimetres, the Big Pilot’s Watch was the perfect fit for Rossi, as he used to race with the number 46.
Developed by IWC over five years, Ceratanium® boasts unique properties. In addition, this innovative new material also impresses with its biocompatibility and striking matte black colour. These same characteristics are crucial for the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Ceratanium®.
For the first time, IWC has manufactured not only the case and crown but also the bracelet from Ceratanium®. Since this material is based on a titanium alloy, the bracelet is around 30 per cent lighter than steel. As a result, it feels pleasant on the skin and is highly comfortable to wear. The black dial with grey imprinting and black hands support the all-black technical design. Inside the 46-millimetre case, the IWC-manufactured 52615 calibre is at work.
The movement can be admired through the tinted sapphire glass back. Its Pellaton winding mechanism has been reinforced with components made of virtually wear-free ceramic and builds up a power reserve of seven days in two barrels. Via a single nightly switching impulse, the base movement drives the perpetual calendar module. The intricate mechanical programme automatically recognises the different lengths of the months and the leap years and will function without adjustment until 2100.
Another IWC speciality is the unique moon phase display at 12 o’clock, which shows the moon accurately for viewers in both the northern and southern hemispheres. Its reduction gears are so precise that the display will only deviate by one day in 577.5 years.
Valentino Rossi will also invite the winning bidder to witness the ‘100km dei Campioni’, a motorcycle race which is held every year at his legendary VR46 Motor Ranch in Tavullia, Italy.
In addition to auctioning Rossi’s Big Pilot’s Watch, the Laureus Charity Night will also feature a silent auction of one of the most complex watches ever made by IWC Schaffhausen: the Portugieser Tourbillon Hand-Wound (Ref. IW546305).
A masterpiece of Haute Horlogerie, it was donated by a collector and long-time friend of the Laureus Foundation Switzerland, whose wish is to support the Foundation’s projects for the advancement of girls. All proceeds from the watch’s auction will go to the Foundation’s programmes focusing on young women.
The timeless and elegant Portugieser model features a 43.2 millimetre case crafted of solid 18-carat 5N gold and a distinctive blue dial with a flying minute tourbillon at 9 o’clock.
The balance wheel, pallet and escape wheel are placed in a tiny cage that constantly rotates around its axis, helping to minimise the effects of gravity on the oscillating system. Instead of being held by an upper bridge, the tourbillon is held from one side, allowing a better view of the delicate mechanism, which consists of 56 parts and weighs only 0.635 grams.
This year’s Laureus Charity Night will take place in Zurich on 5th November and will collect charitable contributions for the further promotion of social sports programmes under the theme of ‘The future is now’.
The Laureus Foundation Switzerland was founded in 2006 by IWC Schaffhausen and Mercedes-Benz as part of the international foundation Laureus Sport for Good. It works to enable children and young people to live a positive life of self-determination through sports, regardless of gender, ethnicity, religion, social class or health issues.
Promoting the integration and personal development of the young and their physical and mental well-being, Laureus places its primary focus not on achievement but on enjoying sports and shared experiences. It supports over 20,000 children in Switzerland through charitable sports projects each year.
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo and Mark Cho, co-founder of the menswear retailer The Armoury, have announced The Beauty in Everything Single Owner Online Auction, presenting over 50 iconic timepieces from the collection of Mark Cho, an avid watch collector and aficionado for nearly two decades.
The sale of this single-owner collection that was formed over 16 years reflecting Cho’s horological passion, impeccable taste and deep knowledge of watches will consist of vintage and modern timepieces by watch brands such as Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, Grand Seiko, Cartier, Omega, and H. Moser & Cie.
Taking place on Phillips.com and Phillips App from 30 November to 6 December, many watches from Cho’s collection will represent an exciting opportunity for collectors around the globe to acquire extraordinary timepieces.
Selected highlights from the sale will be on view in London from 20-23 October and Geneva from 2-6 November. A full auction preview of the collection will be held at The Armoury Pedder Building in Hong Kong from 30 November to 6 December, 2022.
Auction Highlights
A. Lange & Söhne, Lange 1 Soirée
Made in extremely small quantities, the present Lange 1 from Cho’s collection is a true spectacle offered in excellent overall conditions, boasting an iridescent dial fashioned entirely out of mother of pearl with hand-finished guilloche patterns.
A. Lange & Söhne, Lange 1 “Soirée”, Ref. 110.030 in white gold
Fitted in a white gold case with matching bracelet, it retains all the desired elements of a quintessential Lange 1, featuring the iconic oversized date apertures at 2 o’clock, power reserve indication at 3 o’clock, an hours and minutes register and a small seconds subsidiary dial.
Estimate: HK$300,000-600,000/ US$38,500-76,900
Patek Philippe, Nautilus, Ref. 3800/001
The Patek Philippe reference 3800/001 in stainless steel offered in the sale is an exceptional Nautilus. Featuring a rare dial with a sunburst finish, this radial grey canvas is contrasted with hand-painted white minute markers.
Patek Philippe, Nautilus, Ref. 3800/001 in stainless steel, circa 1990
According to its Certificate or Origin and Extract from the Archives, the present wristwatch originally left the factory in 1990 with a “black matte ribbed dial” and “white gold indexes”.
A receipt from Patek Philippe is further delivered with this timepiece, confirming that the updated anthracite grey dial with white markers was delivered in 2011.
Estimate: HK$300,000-500,000/ US$38,500-64,100
Patek Philippe Ref. 3940
The Patek Philippe reference 3940 was first released in 1985 as a 25-piece limited edition to commemorate the 225th Anniversary of Beyer Chronometrie, an esteemed Zurich-based retailer and long-time friend of the firm.
Patek Philippe, Ref. 3940 in yellow gold, circa 1987
This present reference 3940 bears a movement that belongs to the first series with a small production of no more than 1300 pieces. Boasting a distinctive dial, featuring flat, sunken sub-registers with 24-hour and leap year indicators, the earlier specimens differ from later examples which have a leap year sub-dial with a cross dividing the four years.
Furthermore, this is a rare dial variation made exclusively for the German market, as seen in the day and month indications.
Estimate: HK$250,000-450,000 /US$32,100-57,700
Grand Seiko SBGZ001
The Grand Seiko SBGZ001 presented in the sale is one of the most ambitious designs the brand has ever released.
Made in the Micro Artist Studio, where the brand’s ultra-fine, small production pieces are created, it features a fully hand-engraved case in their signature “Snowflake” style as well as a Dufour level of finishing on the movement.
Grand Seiko, Elegance Spring Drive, “Snowflake”, Ref. SBGZ001 in platinum, circa 2019, numbered 12/30
It was released as a limited edition of 30 pieces in honour of the 20th Anniversary of the Spring Drive. Only available at the Grand Seiko Boutiques, this platinum reference is part of a group of timepieces first released in March 2019, powered by the Spring Drive caliber 9R02.
Estimate: HK$200,000-400,000 / US$25,600-51,300
H. Moser x The Armoury Total Eclipse
In an unprecedented collaboration between H Moser & Cie and The Armoury, the Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse was conceived, embodying the distinct design codes of both houses.
Launched in January 2022 with a limited edition of 28 pieces, this model comes in two references and is inspired by both brands’ deep appreciation for quality craftsmanship and exceptional elegance.
H. Moser & Cie, Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse, Ref. 1327-1200 in stainless steel, circa 2022, one of a limited edition of 28 pieces, made in collaboration with The Armoury
Both references sport a stark Vantablack dial that absorbs 99.965% of the light, reflecting the astronomical phenomena of a backlit moon obstructing the sun. The watch comes with Breguet hands, a floating subdial and a polished inner bezel.
Estimate: HK$120,000-200,000/ US$15,400-25,600
Chanel, Monsieur de Chanel, Ref. H4800
Introduced in 2016, Chanel Monsieur reference H4800 is a limited edition of 300 pieces, with 150 examples in beige gold and another 150 pieces in white gold.
Chanel, Monsieur de Chanel, Ref. H4800 in beige gold, circa 2016, numbered 16 of a limited edition of 300 pieces
Encased in beige gold, the present watch features a silvered dial with jumping hours, and retrograde minutes backed up by a beautifully designed and finished movement. Powered by the Caliber 1, the launch of this model also marks the momentous milestone of the Maison’s first in-house high-watchmaking movement.
As a special nod to Chanel jewellery, the case is made of their proprietary beige gold rather than typical yellow or pink gold.
Estimate: HK$60,000-120,000/ 7,700-15,400
Quick facts
Name of auction: The Beauty in Everything Single Owner Online Auction
Dates from 30 November to 6 December, 2022
International Preview
London: 20-23 October at Phillips, 30 Berkeley Square, London
Geneva: 2-6 November at Hôtel La Réserve, 301 Route de Lausanne, Geneva, Switzerland
Hong Kong: 30 November – 6 December at The Armoury Pedder Building, Shop 307, 12 Pedder St, Central, Hong Kong
The Christie’s online auction “Watches Online: The Geneva Edit” will offer a curated selection of remarkable and eye-catching timepieces.
Open for bidding from 1 through 15 November, it will comprise esteemed pieces by Rolex, Cartier, Breguet, Vacheron Constantin, Zenith, and especially Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille.
Collectors will be also delighted to discover a strong and highly attractive section dedicated to independents brands such as Christophe Claret, Jorg Hysek, deLaCour or Jean Dunand, and to the most confidential productions these unconventional watchmakers have made.
This Online auction will be one of the rare and unique opportunities to acquire these pieces, which are no longer produced and are therefore an absolute rarity.
Among the highlights: the fantastic Richard Mille ‘Felipe Massa’ Ref. RM011 AH WG, an Audemars Piguet ‘Royal Oak A Series’ Ref. 5402ST, as well as a stunning Jorg Hysek limited edition white gold minute repeating tourbillon ‘Symphony’, number 9 of 10.
A selection of 50 lots offered in this Online Auction will be exhibited at the Four Seasons Hôtel des Bergues in Geneva, from 3 to 5 November.
Richard Mille, white gold and titanium chronograph ‘Felipe Massa’, Ref. RM011 AH WG. Circa 2011
The RM011 Felipe Massa was introduced by Richard Mille in 2007 and has since become a staple of the manufacturer’s line-up and their most successful chronograph.
Bearing the name of the famed Formula One driver, the RM011 was Richard Mille’s first chronograph which was not a rattrapante.
As one of the first sporting figure to have joined the Richard Mille family, the manufacture celebrated the 10th anniversary of their collaboration with Formula One racing driver Felipe Massa by launching the RM011 chronograph.
Estimate: CHF200,000-400,000
Audemars Piguet, stainless steel ‘Royal Oak A Series’, Ref. 5402ST, No. A1121. From 1974
This steel ‘A Series’ is part of the first 2000 Royal Oaks ever created. This first series was numbered from A 0001 to A 2000.
Indeed, after having sold out the first 1’000 pieces, the eventual success of this model was such that Audemars Piguet took the decision to increase the production to 2’000 pieces. After the ‘A-series’ sold out, manufacture progressed on to the ‘B’ series, ‘C’ series, and so on.
While the Royal Oak watch was entirely designed by Gérald Genta, the bracelets for the reference 5402ST were produced by Gay Frères, the most celebrated bracelet maker of the 20th century.
The case and bracelet are one and the same on the Royal Oak, with each link connected by two perpendicular smaller stainless-steel links. This allows for a form-fitting bracelet that follows the curvature of the wrist, making it both striking in appearance and comfortable to wear.
Collectors have long been discovering and researching the rarities from the last almost 50 years of production of the Royal Oak. Early examples from the ‘A’ series and those with tropical dials have captured the serious attention of watch enthusiasts.
Genta’s original dominant design allied with limited availability has ensured that the ‘A Series’ watches of the Royal Oak are amongst the most coveted timepieces ever, enjoying a continuously expanding popularity.
Estimate: CHF70,000-160,000
Jorg Hysek, limited edition white gold minute repeating tourbillon ‘Symphony’, No. 9/10. From 2007
Launched in 1997, HYSEK brand has imposed its disruptive vision within the watch industry as well as its atypical style which heckles and dares the difference.
Independent and unconventional, Hysek has gained a significant and prestigious position on the high end of luxury timepieces. Hysek is synonym of creativity, technicality, quality, exclusiveness. Its contemporary style reveals minimalist and pure lines. HYSEK timepieces are the result of the harmony of shapes and volumes combined to an extreme search of the detail which convey a very strong identity.
The elements proper to Hysek concept are the refined and elaborated watch profiles, the multi-layered dials displaying the numbers 1-5-7-11, the personalised hand-engraved movements decoration, the perfect integration of the bracelet into the watch case for an incomparable wearing comfort as well as the fold-over buckles, exclusive design to Hysek in a perfect continuity to the case.
The brand has expanded very quickly and in the purpose of establishing its watch making legitimacy, Hysek created its own manufacture in 2007, which placed the company as a major actor of the watch industry. Today, the brand creates and manufactures watches, jewellery, writing instruments and accessories.
On 27 November, Christie’s Hong Kong will be holding a live auction event for Important Watches that will feature The Triazza Collection, Part I, which comprises some of the rarest and most magnificent timepieces from Patek Philippe.
The Christie’s Hong Kong auction offers a total of over 200 watches, with a selection of highly desirable timekeepers, both modern and vintage. Renowned Maisons such as Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Breguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre and A. Lange & Söhne will be represented in this Live Sale, including noteworthy creations by F.P. Journe.
Highlights
Patek Philippe Esmond Bradley Martin Ref. 605 HU cloisonné dial ‘North America’, manufactured in 1950
This exemplary Patek Philippe reference 605 HU (Heure Universelle) World Time dress watch with cloisonné enamel ‘North America’ dial is one of only a handful of these sublimely beautiful horological masterpieces to ever have come to market.
It brings with it a wonderful and impeccable provenance, its first owner was one of the great American watch collectors of the 20th century, Esmond Bradley Martin, who purchased this watch from Tiffany & Co. in New York in December 1957. For the past decade, it has been a highlight of an important private watch collection.
From 1939 to 1964 Louis Cottier and Patek Philippe produced up to 95 pieces of the reference 605 HU, of which 68 were in yellow gold and 27 in pink gold. Reference 605 HU was available with a plain metal dial or a unique cloisonné enamel dial.
The latter could depict individual continents, hemispheres or even the entire planet. This reference was one of the earliest to use Louis Cottier’s world time system and each watch was made under Cottier’s direct supervision to ensure that the world time mechanism operated flawlessly, even after it was cased.
Patek Philippe’s cloisonné dial wristwatches are always among the rarest and most exclusive watches of any reference. Today, only around 12 surviving examples of reference 605 HU are known with cloisonné dials, however only four, including the present watch, were decorated with the map of North America.
Estimate: HK$7,000,000-14,000,000
Patek Philippe Geneva Observatory 1st Prize tourbillon, manufactured in 1924
This important and large-size Geneva Observatory 1st Prize winning tourbillon is not only in exceptional condition and one of the finest high-precision Patek Philippe watches, it is also possibly unique in retaining both its original gold case and white enamel Breguet numeral dial and, in addition, its original antimagnetic observatory contest case and original contest silver sector dial.
According to the Geneva Observatory records, the present movement was awarded a First Prize at the Timing Contest of 1931 with 782 points out of a possible 1000. This chronometer was the 13th out of the 50 classified among more than 600.
The first in the trial gained 856 and the last 604, 58 chronometers were entered for the contest. The tourbillon carriage was made by James Pellaton and the watch was adjusted by master adjuster Jules Golay-Audemars.
As is common to all Patek Philippe movements made for observatory testing, the present watch it is engraved twice with the movement number. The inscription “Extra” on the bridge of the movement refers to the very high finishing of all the parts of the movement. This watch achieved chronometer standard as attested to by the stamping of the movement with the Seal of Geneva (twice).
Estimate: HK$5,500,000 – 11,000,000.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5004J-017
An almost certainly unique yellow gold split seconds chronograph perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, 24-hour and leap year indications, with a Certificate of Origin-confirmed stunning black monogram dial, luminous indexes and luminous hands and white tachymeter scale, made as a bespoke commission for the remarkable American collector Michael Ovitz. Circa 2011. Estimate: HK$5,000,000 – 10,000,000.
Patek Philippe Ref. 1415 Heures Universelles
A superb and very rare 18k gold world time wristwatch, with ‘short’ signature, manufactured in 1948. Only 82 pieces were made in yellow gold, and less than 20 pieces in yellow gold examples with ‘short’ signature. Estimate: HK$1,500,000-3,000,000.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5073P-001
An extremely rare and magnificent diamond-set platinum automatic “Cathedral” minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, 24-hour and leap year indication. On the bezel: baguette-cut diamonds. Circa 2014. Estimate: HK$11,000,000 – 18,000,000.
F.P. Journe Watches
F.P. Journe 30th Anniversary Tourbillon, limited edition of 99 pieces
A rare 18k rose gold and silver limited edition tourbillon wristwatch to celebrate thirty years since the founding of the F.P. Journe watchmaking Manufacture. Circa 2014. Estimate: HK$2,400,000 – 4,800,000.
F.P. Journe lineSport Automatique Reserve
18k pink gold automatic wristwatch with date, power reserve, day/night indication and bracelet. Circa 2021. Estimate: HK$800,000 – 1,600,000.
F.P. Journe Élégante 40 platinum
An attractive lady’s diamond and sapphire-set platinum wristwatch. Circa 2021. Estimate: HK$350,000 – 700,000.
F.P. Journe Élégante 40 titanium
An attractive lady’s ceramic and diamond-set titanium wristwatch. Circa 2021. Estimate: HK$180,000 – 280,000.
An OMEGA Speedmaster chronograph, previously owned and worn by NASA astronaut Walter “Wally” Schirra, has sold at RR Auction for US $1,907,000. The BA 145.022 model in 18K yellow gold is of particular historic value, and represents OMEGA’s enduring connection to the achievements of space exploration.
The watch is part of the iconic Numbered Edition series that was produced in 1969 to celebrate the success of Apollo 11. Model numbers 3 – 28 were given to the astronauts in NASA’s space programme, including those who were present at an “Astronaut Appreciation Dinner” on the 25th of November that year in Houston.
Image courtesy: RR Auction
Schirra was among the astronauts in attendance that night and, as such, he received watch number 8, with an encircled engraving on the caseback which states, “Astronaut Walter M. Schirra, Mercury 8 – Gemini 6 – Apollo 7”.
The Speedmaster BA 145.022 is crafted from 18K yellow gold and famously includes a rare burgundy bezel, as well as a further inscription on the caseback that reads, “to mark man’s conquest of space with time, through time, on time.” The watch also houses the Calibre 861 – a direct descendent of the legendary Calibre 321 that accompanied astronauts on the moon.
Schirra plays a symbolic role in OMEGA’s history of space exploration. On October 3rd in 1962, he wore his own personal Speedmaster CK 2998 during the “Sigma 7” mission of the Mercury program.
Image courtesy: RR Auction
This was the first time an OMEGA watch had been worn in space, and marked the start of the brand’s long and special involvement beyond Earth. Just a few years later, NASA would officially qualify the Speedmaster for all manned space missions, launching an OMEGA legacy that continues to this day.
The commemorative Numbered Edition series featured only 1,014 models – produced between 1969 and 1973. The very first of these was created for US President, Richard Nixon, with number 2 allocated to the US Vice President Spiro Agnew.
These watches, however, were later returned due to the US government’s strict gifting protocol. Model numbers 3 – 28 were given to NASA astronauts, numbers 29 to 32 were offered to Swiss watch industry leaders and politicians, while 33 – 1000 were offered to the public. Each one remains a highly sought-after piece to this day.
Earlier this year, the Speedmaster BA 145.022 presented to Apollo 11 astronaut Michael Collins, fetched US $765,000 at auction – yet again proving the popularity of this unique Speedmaster series.
During the Important Modern and Vintage Timepieces Geneva auction on 05th and 06th November 2022, Antiquorum is offering a Henri Grandjean & Cie Grand Complication Pocket Watch.
Dating back to 1880, this ultra-complicated mechanical pocket watch was made by Henri Grandjean (1803-1879), founder of the Neuchâtel Observatory.
This gold pocket watch with eight complications rarely combined in a single piece is one of the most complex timepieces ever made by Henri Grandjean. This chronometric treasure will be auctioned at the Antiquorum Important Modern and Vintage Timepieces Sale at the Beau Rivage in Geneva on 6 November 2022.
This timepiece incorporates eight watchmaking complications: retrograde perpetual calendar (fly-back), chronograph, moon phases, quarter repetition by two hammers on two gongs and dual time zone.
Made for the Spanish or South American market, it features an 18K Multi-coloured gold (yellow, pink, green and white) hunting-case with a diameter of 61.5 mm. The case itself is comprised of 27 parts. This large, round-shaped pocket watch comes with keyless-winding system.
Born in Le Locle on 14th December 1803, Henri Grandjean was an extraordinary Watchmaker. He founded the prestigious Neuchâtel Observatory. He was also the architect of the reference point for precision in Le Locle (Cité de la Précision) thanks to the cable he had laid between the Observatory and the watchmaking school in Le Locle, which he also had built.
Finally, among other architectural and sectorial footprints that he has left, we owe him the building of the Quartier de l’An-Neuf (today the Quartier du Progrès), which in 2009 enabled Le Locle to join the UNESCO application for the registration of the Urbanisme Horloger as a world heritage property in La Chaux-de- Fonds.
At the time, when this great chronometer-maker delivered his models to the markets of the British Empire, including India, he would put “Henry” on the dials. Similarly, he would sometimes sign “Enrique” for his watches delivered to South American markets.
Henri Grandjean
It is estimated that between 150 and 200 timepieces were manufactured by Henri Grandjean during his lifetime. Some of these are to be discovered in the main watchmaking museums. As in Le Locle, where the Château des Monts even has a “Henri Grandjean” archive of historical documents.
As an innovative spirit, Henri Grandjean – also written GrandJean – experimented with various procedures: screw or mass balances, escapements with pivoted or spring detents, circular or spherical balance springs. Although none of these systems seemed better than another, he insisted on the terminal curves of the balance spring, as calculated by the mathematician Edouard Phillips (1821-1889).
Before Nobel Prize-winning physicist Charles-Edouard Guillaume (1861-1938), he planned to use a nickel alloy for the balance springs. Working on different calibres, Henri Grandjean showed that the dimension of a movement does not determine its precision.
While his favourite calibre is a 56 lignes with two plates, with a power reserve of fifty-six hours, he also made small marine watches, up to 26 lignes. He is known for his sense of technical simplification and for the indisputably high level of his finishings.
Technical details
Lot name: Henri Grandjean, 8 complications pocket watch
Lot number: 256
Antiquorum Geneva’s Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Auction, 05 & 06 November 2022
Functions and complications
Quarter-repeater by two hammers on two steel gongs activated by the slide located on the case-band at 6 o’clock.
1/5 second chronograph activated by the single rectangular pushpiece located on the edge of the bezel at 6 o’clock), with outer ring.
Instantaneous perpetual calendar
Retrograde (fly-back) date of the month (half-circle graduation at 12 o’clock with index
Retrograde (fly-back) date of the month, half-circle graduation at 12 o’clock with index
Month of the year, subsidiary dial at 4 o’clock; indications given in Spanish
Age and phases of the moon, subsidiary dial, graduated from 0 to 29½, and aperture at 12 o’clock
Hours and minutes of a second time zone, concentric yellow gold hands, time-setting by push-pin on the right side of the pendant; the repeater mechanism is indexed to this set of hands.
Movement
Caliber 20”’ (lignes)
20’’’ movement, nickel-plated, “fausses côtes” decoration, 37 jewels, going barrel, wolf-teeth winding wheels, gold train of wheels, straight-line equilibrated lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensated balance, blued steel hairspring with terminal curve, polished steel index-regulator; repeater work on the main plate, under the dial; chronograph work on the top plate.
Dial
White colour enamel dial, with suspended “Breguet” numerals; blued steel “Spade” hands (time-setting by push-pin on the left side of the pendant); inner ring with radial
Roman numerals for the dual-time
Case
Four-coloured case
Five body massive “bassine et filets, carrure ronde” case, profusely chased and engraved overall with elaborate foliage; cover and case-back with four colour highrelief decoration of iris flowers cartouche, scrolls and a mask; engraved and guilloché (engine-turned) gold cuvette (dome); additional glazed cuvette to protect the movement.
Estimate
CHF50,000 – CHF100,000
For more historical information about Henri Grandjean, please visit the website of L’Association Henri Grandjean Valeurs & Héritage (The Henri Grandjean Values & Heritage Association).
The Abingdon Co. has a fresh new look and is excited to announce the next step in its evolution emerging as Abingdon.
The new brand, which includes a new logo, watch designs, packaging, website, and imagery, has been designed to reflect the values of the company. Abingdon provides high-quality, purpose-built watches for women who do more.
Every detail of an Abingdon watch from the hands on the dial to the buckle on the band is designed to help customers reach their goals. Abingdon continues to empower consumers with a strong focus on supplying the tools they need to succeed so they can climb, drive, fly, ride and discover.
“As we unveil the new look and feel of Abingdon, we embark on an exciting new chapter for the company with a refreshed essence that captures the powerful Crew Members that proudly wear our watches,” said Abingdon Mullin, Founder and CEO of Abingdon. “This is a special time for our company, and we see a bright future ahead.”
Abingdon Watches was first established in 2007 and will celebrate its 15-year anniversary in November. The reimagined brand work begins with a new logo inspired by the Valkyries of Norse mythology and brand colors that represent the environments of the customers who wear an Abingdon watch.
A Valkyrie – the original aces of the sky – are female demigods who rode to the battlefield on horses wearing helmets and shields and, in some accounts, flew through air and sea. Abingdon’s new logo resembles the Valkyries’ golden helmets, symbolic of their power and virtue. “Abingdon customers, who are called “Crew Members,” are like demigods themselves,” Mullin adds.
The new brand colors range from a vivid red-orange to hunter green and blue hues – a palette that reflects the settings of the Crew Members’ backdrops – land, sea, air, and the fire that burns within them, pushing them to greatness.
The new brand relaunch will be unveiled at a secret New York rooftop loft party October 21, 2022. Crew Members, partners of the brand, and media are slated to attend this exclusive event, which is being held on the evening of the first day of the 2022 Windup Watch Fair by Worn and Wound, where Abingdon Co. is exhibiting and Abingdon, herself, will be a featured panelist in a discussion around niches and watches Saturday at 1pm at the Altman Building in Manhattan.
In tandem with the brand refresh, Abingdon will continue to empower and support generations of women through the Abingdon Foundation, providing scholarships, community outreach, and networking opportunities for women and girls in STEAM.
Those who purchase a watch become part of the Abingdon Crew and these fearless members do impressive things in remarkable places.
A few notable Crew Members include Celebrity Cruise ship captain Kate McCue, Girls That Scuba founder, Sarah Richard and model/actress Eugenia Kuzmina. Celebrities including Laura Dern and Jasmine Davis have also been spotted on the red carpet wearing an Abingdon watch.
Scheduled on 7th November 2022, the Christie’s Geneva Rare Watches Live Sale will be auctioning an extremely rare Daytona watch with a Paul Newman Lemon Dial.
This Rolex Daytona ref. 6263 “Paul Newman with Lemon Dial” is the earliest of only three known examples of the 18K gold version of the iconic Rolex.
In Pucci Papaleo’s definitive Ultimate Rolex Daytona reference work, the 18K gold reference 6263 with ‘Oyster Lemon’ dial featuring white subsidiary graphics is called THE LEGEND –fitting for the One among the three rarest and most fabled of all gold Cosmographs.
The so-called ‘Lemon’ Paul Newman refers to the rich yellow hue of the background colour, very different from the usual cream/champagne colour. It is furthermore distinguished by the white printing on the engine-turned subsidiary dials.
Rolex usually produced the yellow gold ‘pump pusher’ Paul Newman Cosmograph references with champagne/gilt numbers and indexes on their totalizers which blend with the tonality of the dial as a whole, instead, the white numbers and indexes on the present ‘Lemon’ dial watch sharply contrast with the dark background providing a rather striking visual addition to the overall effect.
For many years it was supposed that no gold Cosmograph Daytonas with screw-down chronograph pushers existed with ‘Oyster Lemon Paul Newman’ dials.
The present watch from ca. 1969 caused a sensation when it appeared at auction for the first time in 2013; indeed, it was one of the most significant moments for Rolex scholars and Daytona collectors.
The serial number 2’330’402 placed it very early in the production of reference 6263, predating even some of the last examples of the earlier ‘pump pusher’ references 6262 and 6264, at a time when Rolex were experimenting with different dial types.
Christie’s Hong Kong is presenting three significant sales this autumn, featuring the final two parts of The Champion Collection, as well as some of the world’s most complicated watches and Métiers d’Art masterpieces.
On 27 November, the Live Sale of ‘The Champion Collection Part VI: The Finest Watchmaking’ will feature 82 lots; the same day Christie’s will also present 223 Important Watches featuring the astonishing Triazza Collection Part I, which encompasses some of the rarest and most sublime timepieces from Patek Philippe.
An Online Sale will first be held from 24 November to 7 December, introducing Part V of The Champion Collection, entitled ‘The Panerai Encyclopedia – Final Chapter’.
The Champion Collection Part VI: ‘The Finest Watchmaking’
The sixth auction from The Champion Collection, entitled ‘The Finest Watchmaking’, offers collectors a cornucopia of stunning examples of the watchmaker’s art.
The Champion Collection Part VI auction offers 82 lots, manufactured by prestigious brands like Patek Philippe, Rolex, Cartier, Audemars Piguet, A. Lange & Söhne, Greubel Forsey, F.P. Journe, Franck Muller, Ulysse Nardin, Breguet, JLC and Vacheron Constantin.
Top lots
(1) Lot 2282: Patek Philippe Ref. 5208P
Patek Philippe Ref. 5208P is an important and highly complicated platinum automatic minute repeating instantaneous perpetual calendar single button chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, leap year and day/night indication. This example was made in 2014. Estimate: HK$5,500,000-11,000,000.
(2) Métiers d’Art masterpieces: Vacheron Constantin’s “Tribal Mask” set
Christie’s is presenting one of the extremely rare full set of four from the 2007 first series Métiers d’Art “Tribal Mask” wristwatches. One of the highlights of the ‘Champion Collection’, these spectacular creations are considered to be great works of art, the masks are entirely hand-made by craftsmen of the highest caliber working with precious materials.
The finish of the gold masks has been captured in amazing detail and faithfully reproduces the original full-size masks that served as models. The outstanding watchmaking skills of Vacheron Constantin transform the Tribal Mask watches into wearable masterpieces of outstanding beauty.
Vacheron Constantin’s first series of ‘Métiers d’Art Tribal Mask’
Only 25 highly exclusive sets were made worldwide in 2007, further sets of four watches were also produced for the years 2008 and 2009.
Each set features four different masks so that, over those three years, a total of 12 watches were produced. One of the world’s greatest watch collectors, the owner of The Champion Collection acquired one of each of the three complete sets of four. Starting with the 2007 set offered in this auction, the sets made in 2008 and 2009 will follow in future sales. (Each mask is sold as an individual piece).
Lot 2249 – Vacheron Constantin Les Masques ‘Indonesia antique mask’ watch
Lot 2249 – From the Vacheron Constantin Les Masques collection, an impressive and extremely rare 18k pink gold limited edition automatic wristwatch with day, date and 18k gold hand engraved micro sculpture of an Indonesia antique mask from the Barbier-Muller Museum. Circa 2008. Estimate: HK$375,000-750,000.
Lot 2248 – Vacheron Constantin Les Masques ‘China antique mask’ watch
Lot 2248 – From the Vacheron Constantin Les Masques collection, an impressive and extremely rare 18k gold limited edition automatic wristwatch with day, date and 18k gold hand engraved micro sculpture of a China antique mask from the Barbier-Muller Museum. Circa 2008. Estimate: HK$375,000-750,000.
Lot 2251 – Vacheron Constantin Les Masques ‘Congo antique mask’ watch
Lot 2251 – From the Vacheron Constantin Les Masques collection, an impressive extremely rare platinum limited edition automatic wristwatch with day, date and 18k gold hand engraved micro sculpture of a Congo antique mask from the Barbier-Muller Museum. Circa 2008. Estimate: HK$375,000-750,000.
Lot 2250 – Vacheron Constantin Les Masques ‘Alaska antique mask’ watch
Lot 2250 – From the Vacheron Constantin Les Masques collection, an impressive and extremely rare 18k white gold limited edition automatic wristwatch with day, date and 18k gold hand engraved micro sculpture of an Alaska antique mask from the Barbier-Muller Museum. Circa 2008. Estimate: HK$375,000-750,000.
(3) Enamel wonders
Lot 2258 – Patek Philippe Ref. 7131/175R
This is a magnificent and extremely rare limited edition ladies’ 18k pink gold and diamond-set automatic world time wristwatch with cloisonné enamel dial featuring the Geneva harbour, made to commemorate the 175th anniversary of Patek Philippe. Circa 2015. Estimate: HK$1,000,000-2,000,000.
Lot 2263 – Patek Philippe Ref 5077/100R-033
This is a rare 18k pink gold and diamond set wristwatch with cloisonné enamel dial featuring a view of Tuscany. Circa 2018. Estimate: HK$700,000-1,400,000.
Lot 2246 – Jaeger Le-Coultre Reverso à Éclipse ‘Famous Nudes’
This is an extremely rare platinum reversible wristwatch with enamel dial depicting Primavera by Botticelli. Estimate: HK$300,000-600,000.
Lot 2247 – Jaeger Le-Coultre Reverso à Éclipse ‘Famous Nudes’
This is a magnificent and extremely rare platinum reversible wristwatch with enamel dial depicting the Turkish Bath by Jean Auguste-Dominique Ingres. Estimate: HK$300,000-600,000
Important Watches Featuring the Triazza Collection Part I
The Triazza Collection is a dream Patek Philippe collection, an incredible grouping that is not only testament to the taste and discernment of its present owner, but also one where each individual watch has been carefully chosen for its rarity, condition, beauty and provenance.
Lot 2519 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5004J-017
Lot 2519 – A unique yellow gold Patek Philippe Ref. 5004J-017 with Certificate of Origin-confirmed stunning black monogram dial, luminous indexes and luminous hands and white tachymeter scale, made as a bespoke commission for the remarkable American collector Michael Steven Ovitz. Estimate: HK$5,000,000-10,000,000.
Lot 2520 – Ref. 1415 Patek Philippe Heures Universelles
Lot 2520 – Patek Philippe Ref. 1415 Heures Universelles. Estimate: HK$1,500,000-3,000,000.
Lot 2521 – Patek Philippe Geneva Observatory 1st Prize winning tourbillon
Lot 2521 – Patek Philippe Geneva Observatory 1st Prize winning tourbillon, possibly unique in retaining both its original gold case and white enamel Breguet numeral dial and, in addition, its original antimagnetic observatory contest case and original contest silver sector dial. Estimate: HK$5,500,000-11,000,000.
Lot 2522 – The Esmond Bradley Martin Ref. 605 Patek Philippe HU cloisonné dial ‘North America’
Lot 2522 – The “Esmond Bradley Martin” Patek Philippe Ref.605HU cloisonné dial ‘North America’. Estimate: HK$7,000,000-14,000,000
Schedule
Important Watches Featuring The Triazza Collection Part I
Live Sale – Various Owners
Date: 27 November 2022
Number of lots: 223 lots
Total low estimate: HK$120 million
The Champion Collection Part VI: ‘The Finest Watchmaking’
Live Sale – Single Owner
Date: 27 November 2022
Number of lots: 82 lots
Total low estimate: HK$49 million
The Champion Collection, Part V: ‘The Panerai Encyclopedia-Final Chapter’
Online Sale – Single Owner
Date: 24 Nov – 7 Dec 2022
Number of lots: 88 lots
Total low estimate: HK$5.5 million
Several timepieces with a Middle Eastern résonance will be on display at the Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC) from 12 to 26 October 2022 on the occasion of Christie’s Watches Online: The Dubai Edit.
Among them, one of Patek Philippe’s most remarkable time-only watches ever made: a sublime18k yellow gold Patek Philippe ref. 2573 ‘Pearl of the Arabian Gulf’ of 1958, with a gilt dial and seed pearl hour markers between the cardinal indices, on an 18k gold bracelet made exclusively for this watch by Gay Frères, purveyors of finest bracelet creations.
Pearl of the Arabian Gulf: a special commission 18k yellow gold Patek Philippe ref. 2573 with gilt dial and seed pearl hour markers between the cardinal indices on an exquisite gold bracelet made by Gay Frères for Patek Philippe specifically for this watch, 1958. (Est: US$100,000-200,000
The present watch is one of the only three Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 2573 to ever feature eight seed pearls as hour markers between the cardinal indices. Whereas the other two were made in rose gold, this one, in yellow gold, is all the more stunning for the solid yellow gold bracelet created especially for this watch by Gay Frères.
Manufactured in 1958, its case and movement numbers indicate it was also the very first of the three special commissions to be manufactured, preceding the two rose gold models by a few months at most.
For decades, only one thing was certain: at least one ref. 2573 with seed pearls marking the hours between the cardinal indices was known to have been made; it was the image published by Patek Philippe as a “Creation 1959” which led to giving the legend a name: Pearl of Bahrain. What the watch looked like in the flesh, or by whom precisely it had been commissioned, nobody knew. If it even still existed at all, was a mystery, too.
Then, on 16 December 2015, Christie’s New York sold a Patek Philippe with seed pearl hour markers, a time-only Calatrava ref. 2573 in rose gold – movement no. 749608, case no. 425442, manufactured in 1958 – with a rose gold dial (lot 62): for the first time, a Pearl of Bahrain was offered at auction.
The consignor, an American businessman with an extensive career in the Middle East had received it as a gift from Emir Salman bin Hamad Al Khalifa, to whom he had served as an advisor and with whom he had become friends. Estimated at US$10,000 to 15,000, the watch sold for the staggering sum of US$437,000.
The rose gold ref. 2573 ‘Pearl of Bahrain’ gifted by Emir Salman bin Hamad Al Khalifa I of Bahrain to British businessman John Eardley Allcard, case no. 425’441, sold by Christie’s in 2018
A mere three years later, on 14 May 2018, Christie’s Geneva proposed the second ref. 2573 in rose gold with seed pearl dial known to have been made, this one slightly less well preserved, at auction.
This one, too, with a confirmed Extract from the Archives, had been gifted to a British businessman who had earned the trust and friendship of the Emir working on a number of key infrastructure projects in Bahrain. This watch, also from 1958 (with movement no. 749594 and the case no. 425441) had been estimated CHF100,000 and 200,000, and sold above estimate for CHF250,000.
The present Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 2573 Christie’s Dubai will offer at its open for bidding auction until 26 October 2022is the only known example in yellow gold and stands out as one of the most compelling and important time-only Patek Philippe wristwatches to be offered at auction in recent years.
Although it predates the two rose gold Pearl of Bahrain watches in existence, which feature the exact same architecture and construction, its provenance as having also been commissioned by the Emir of Bahrain cannot be determined with absolute certainty.
The bespoke bracelet in 18k gold created specifically by Gay Frères, purveyors of the finest bracelets to Patek Philippe is stamped 2 58 referring to the second quarter of 1958 and is confirmed on the extract from the archive. Manufactured in 1958, this watch bears the movement no. 748659 and the case no. 425302.
Considering the ref. 2573 was well into series production, this model of 1958 was most probably manufactured only months if not weeks prior to the two models in rose gold.
Based on the legendary Calatrava ref. 2573 that was launched in 1956 (and manufactured until ca. 1971), the bespoke case construction or ‘architecture’ necessary to accommodate the natural seed pearl hour markers is in itself extraordinary.
The hour and minute hands are on a raised post to enable them to clear the pearl hour markers. The bezel is thus taller and steeper than on the other examples of the reference 2573. Combined with the domed crystal, the sheer slope of the bezel provides remarkable three-dimensional viewing of the pearl hour markers from a side angle, creating incredible visual interest.
Scheduled on 7th of November, the Rare Watches auction by Christie’s Geneva will offer a selection of the most coveted timepieces made by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and others.
Among these treasures, the Rolex Ref. 6298 which Swiss mountain guide, chemist and oxygen specialist Jürg Marmet wore on his successful ascent of the Mount Everest on 23 May 1956; and the No. 1 of Royal Oak reference 5420SA – the first ever stainless steel and gold Royal Oak produced in 1977.
Lot 128 – The ‘Pre-Explorer’ Rolex Jürg Marmet Ref. 6298
This watch was worn during two well documented and significant expeditions, including accompanying its then owner, the Swiss mountain guide, chemist and oxygen specialist Jürg Marmet on his successful ascent of Mount Everest as part of the official “Schweizerische Mount Everest-Expedition 1956”.
Jürg Marmet, wearing this very watch, was only the third human ever to reach the summit of Everest on that 23rd of May 1956. The Rolex Ref. 6298 Jürg Marmet is therefore of incalculable historic value. Treasured and cared for as a trusted companion by Jürg Marmet and subsequently his family, it has remained in wonderfully unrestored condition.
In 1956, Jürg Marmet was one of the team chosen to take part in the third Swiss attempt to conquer Everest. Naturally, the Rolex wristwatch that had been given to him for the earlier Baffin Island expedition would be his companion on this next and most challenging endeavour, too.
The Swiss expedition was a huge undertaking that lasted 6 months, the ascent and descent alone taking 40 days. Part of the route that the team chose to climb Everest that year enabled them to simultaneously conquer the world’s fourth-highest mountain, Lhotse, for the first time. The Swiss Everest team consisted of 11 members; Jürg Marmet, then aged 29 and Ernst Schmied, aged 32, were the third and fourth human beings respectively to stand on the summit of Everest.
Watch number 929’708 was issued to Jürg Marmet and the back of the case is engraved “Baffinland 1953 Jürg Marmet”.
Estimate: CHF20,000-40,000
Lot 110 – Audemars Piguet ‘Royal Oak’ Ref. 5402SA, circa 1977
The present watch is the No. 1 Royal Oak reference 5420SA – the first ever stainless steel and gold Royal Oak made in 1977.
The Royal Oak 5402SA was made in fewer examples than the much-appreciated steel 5402 ‘A Series’ and is therewith much rarer. The design remained unchanged – with a slate grey dial and yellow gold hour markers – during the entire production run from 1977 to 1985. The timepieces of reference 5402SA were numbered from 1 to 951 of which 876 watches were sold.
Estimate: CHF200,000-400,000
Lot 69 – A Cartier ‘Paris Crash’ 1991 watch from the family of the original owner
Very few of Cartier’s 1991 Paris-made ‘Crash’ watches have ever appeared at auction, and this has been consigned by the family of the original owner. Produced in such small numbers, the Cartier Crash watch has from the outset been almost impossible to obtain, its quasi-mythical status as an instantly recognizable yet highly exclusive design icon assures its eternal appeal.
Christie’s Dubai kicks off the second half of the year with a selection of highly collectible modern and vintage timepieces offered in Watches Online.
All the watches will be on display at the Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC) from 12 to 26 October with online only bidding. Over 300 watches are going on auction with an estimate ranging from US$ 14 to US$ 23 million.
Heading the sale is the exclusive Richard Mille RM 50-03 McLaren Tourbillon Split-Seconds Chronograph (Est: US$900,000-1,200,000).
Furthermore, this Dubai auction will also feature several timepieces with Middle Eastern résonance and the largest selection of gem-set and mother of pearl Rolex Daytona watches to ever be offered in the region. To meet the market demand, the team of specialists have prepared an important selection of independent watchmakers F.P. Journe and De Bethune among others.
A dedicated section of 60 collectible women’s wristwatches will open the show with a closing on the 25 October, 24hours before the main auction. This section is composed of two collections, one contemporary from a collector of the Middle East while the second is driven by bracelet watches from the 1970’s mostly by Piaget.
Highlights (independents)
Lot 71 – Richard Mille RM 50-03 McLaren Tourbillon Split-Seconds Chronograph
Manufactured in a limited edition of only 75 pieces, the RM 50-03 was the first wristwatch to use the proprietary composite Graph TPT (Graphene) a cutting-edge case material developed by The University of Manchester, McLaren Applied Technologies and North Thin Ply Technology (NTPT). Estimate: US$900,000-1,200,000.
Lot 61 – F.P. Journe Tourbillon ‘Jade’
A platinum F.P. Journe Tourbillon ‘Jade’ with a sought-after jade dial leads a selection of timepieces from the independent watchmaker.
Given the difficulties of producing dials in stone, notably the risk of chipping and cracking, most manufacturers produce their dials in circular disks, thus making the cutting action simpler and reducing the pressure on ‘stress-points’. However, given the tourbillon and the offset dial, F.P. Journe cuts his dials with two very intricate and complex shapes. This particular example comes with a matching solid platinum bracelet. Estimate: US$650,000-1,200,000.
Lot 65 – F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain UAE edition
Presented in an attractive and unusual green livery, the watch was launched in 2020, to celebrate the opening of the brand’s first Dubai boutique. All 99 pieces of this stunning timepiece were instantly sold out. The watch’s colour scheme is symbolic in the Middle East, representing chance, fortune and fertility. Estimate: US$200,000-300,000.
Lot 77 – De Bethune DBS Tourbillon White Gold
This white gold De Bethune DBS Tourbillon was launched to mark the 10th anniversary of the De Bethune DBS. Limited to just 10 pieces and featuring a high-frequency tourbillon, the case design is a nod to the early De Bethune timepieces with the characteristic conical lugs, the hinged link between the top strap and the case, and the crown at 12 o’clock. Estimate: US$200,000-300,000.
Treasures of the Middle East
Lot 105 – Patek Philippe Ref. 982/104J-001
The Patek Philippe Ref. 982/104J-001 open-faced watch with power reserve indication depicts in enamel a “Bedouin on camelback traversing the Arabian desert”.
The watch is fitted with a gorgeous translucent blue enamel dial applied over a gold guilloche dial and is delivered with its full set of accessories including a gem set chain. Estimate: US$120,000-180,000.
Lot 91 – Parmigiani Fleurier Islamic Hijri Perpetual Calendar
A special edition platinum Parmigiani Fleurier Islamic Hijri Perpetual Calendar made for the UAE Government to mark the 50th National Day Celebrations of the country made in 2021.
A traditional perpetual calendar’s gears are programmed, when continuously running, to account for the leap month once every four years and different length months in the Gregorian calendar.
The Islamic Calendar is based on the lunar calendar with the Hijri Year being made up of 12 months of 29 or 30 days – depending on the moon phase. The lunar calendar uses the phases of the moon to measure time, usually measuring the time from new moon to new moon as one month.
Estimate: US$70,000-120,000
Lot 84 – Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down Platinum
This is very rare Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down watch with a platinum case and Arabic numerals. The Upside Down watch has a unique complication to display time.
Only the numeral for the current hour flips from its upside down position, to upright, the end of the 59th second of each hour. The other 11 numerals on the dial remain in their upside down position. The standard Upside Down is a talking piece among watch collectors, while the presence of Arabic numerals adds a whole new layer of rarity to this timepiece.
Estimate: US$40,000-80,000
Lot 122 – Rolex Everose Gold Daytona Rainbow ref. 116595RBOW
The Rainbow Daytona models in yellow gold and white gold were released in 2012, before the Everose gold reference in 2018. The Rainbow has since become the most desirable of the modern Daytona references.
The bezel is set with 36 baguette-cut sapphires in a rainbow gradation, framing a black lacquer dial with counters made with gold crystals. The mid-case is also set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Due to the nature of its production, these models were made in very limited edition and have an artisanal-like quality, as evidenced by the gem-setting on the bezel.
Estimate: US$350,000-650,000
Lot 123 – Rolex Daytona “Eye of The Tiger” ref. 116598TBR
Following the success of the Daytona “Rainbow”, Rolex launched the Ref. 116588TBR in 2019 – a flamboyant yellow gold and diamond-set Daytona with a spectacular dial complete with swirls of black lacquer surrounded by 243 diamonds and set with diamond hour markers.
The dial quickly earned this reference the nickname “Eye of the Tiger”, and today it remains one of the most sought-after modern Daytona references. The Ref. 116598TBR comes with the full-gold and diamond-set Rolex Oyster bracelet and diamond-set crown guards and lugs.
Estimate: US$300,000-500,000
Lot 172 – Rolex 6239 Paul Newman
The Rolex 6239 Paul Newman in steel with a black dial is leading the vintage section of Rolex at the Dubai auction. Estimate: US$150,000-250,000.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak trio
In the late 1990s, Audemars Piguet introduced a new ultramarine blue dial in the Royal Oak series in a shade that was very similar to the deep hue first mixed by the French artist Yves Klein.
This dial was quickly nicknamed “Yves Klein” by collectors and to this day, they remain extremely collectible. In this auction, Christie’s is presenting a trio of stainless-steel Royal Oak models:
Lot 113 – Audemars Piguet Ref. 14790ST, Estimate: US$30,000-50,000
Lot 114 – Audemars Piguet Day Date Moon phase ref. 25594ST, Estimate: US$50,000-80,000
Collectible Women’s Watches
For the first time at Christie’s, the auction will feature a dedicated section of 60 collectible women’s wristwatches. Featuring 2 main collections, one is contemporary, while the second is focused on the 1970’s with a majority of Piaget in impeccable condition and an inimitable style.
Lot 1 – Richard Mille RM037 Ti-CA TPT
This lot represents an exclusive titanium and carbon TPT Richard Mille RM037 Ti-CA TPT watch. Richard Mille is best known for its avant-garde sports watches using cutting-edge technology. With models like the RM037, it demonstrated that they can still create ladies timepieces with the innovative style. Estimate: US$80,000-120,000.
Lot 2 – Cartier Baignoire S ‘Crash’
This lot is a superb example of Cartier Baignoire S ‘Crash Circa 2013. It is a white gold and diamond-set manual-winding wristwatch. A variant of the classic Baignoire line, the Baignoire S can be sometimes confused with another classic Cartier model, the Crash, with many referring to the Ref. 3174 as the Baignoire S Crash model. Estimate: US$60,000-80,000.
TAG Heuer is adding new talent to its portfolio of outstanding athlete Brand Ambassadors with the signing of skateboarding and surfing’s youngest prodigy, Sky Brown.
Sky is a record-breaking skateboarder and a true inspiration for the next generation in and out of the skatepark. At the Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympics, Brown competed as part of the Great Britain team at only 13 years old.
A pioneer, not only did she make history as the youngest ever Olympian participating in the Summer Olympics, but she also won the bronze medal – and did so the first year skateboarding had been added to the Olympic program – which all promises great future success at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.
Sky is an unstoppable athlete, having even announced that she was also considering competing in surfing at the 2024 Summer Olympics.
Breaking new ground, she is also the first female to land a front side 540 figure. In July 2022, Sky won gold in Women’s Skateboard Park at the X Games, known as the biggest worldwide skate competition.
Inspiring, fresh, and talented, Sky already has an important community on social media including Instagram and TikTok. Connected with the new generation, she interacts every day with over a million followers posting new videos of her feats but also sharing her lifestyle with her fans.
To celebrate her arrival in the TAG Heuer family, Sky Brown was photographed wearing the three latest colorful chronographs from the TAG Heuer Formula 1 collection.
Assertive and fun, these timepieces delight enthusiasts and lovers of cool statement sports. The new TAG Heuer Formula 1 pieces are available in green, yellow and red, a trio that boldly expresses the brand’s love for speed, adrenaline, and audacious design.
In her daily life, Sky also loves to wear her 42-mm TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 smartwatch, especially for her training sessions.
“W.O.I. – Watches Of Italy” is the national exhibition dedicated to Italian Watchmaking. After the success of exhibitions in 2020 and 2021, this premium watch show is returning this year with more enthusiasm.
The third edition will be held on Saturday 15th and Sunday 16th of October 2022 at the “Orsi” Agricultural Machinery Museum in Tortona (AL), Italy.
The fair/expo is FREE ENTRANCE and will observe the hours continued from 10:00 to 19:00. The official partner of the event is the “La Clessidra 1945”, the oldest Italian watch trade magazine.
The event is organized by the “Watches Of Italy Group”, with the patronage of the Municipality of Tortona. The exhibition will be attended by well-established brands, microbrands, startups, artisans, designers and watchmakers. It’s going to be possible to look and touch products and get to know the manufacturer directly.
It will be also possible to buy watches and spare parts directly at the exhibit as there will be manufacturers of both watches and accessories. The entrance remains deliberately free in order to reach the widest possible audience and also to promote small artisanal productions which, normally, do not find any space in large-scale distribution.
Fabrizio Dellachà, creator and coordinator of the Watches Of Italy collective, said: “Ten exhibitors more than last year, and +50% in number of visitors, are statistics that show that we are going in the right direction. Watches Of Italy provides the ideal setting in which to launch premieres that demonstrate the creativity of Italian designers”.
Silvia Bonfanti, communications director and press officer for Watches Of Italy, said: “For the first time, this year we have organized the W.O.I. Talk featuring personalities in the sector in order to review the situation in Italy, examine market trends and explore the future possibilities in the watchmaking sector”.
It’s to underline that the main target of the W.O.I. Group is to enhance and promote Italian brands but the watch fair will host even non-Italian companies that are currently run by Italian entrepreneurs in order to celebrate Italian creativity all over the world of watchmaking.
Phillips has announced the results of The Geneva Sessions, Phillips’ first online auction curated by watch specialists in Geneva.
The sale achieved CHF 2,664,774 and was led by a Patek Philippe Nautilus chronograph in pink gold ref 5980/1R which sold for CHF 252,000. Over 600 bidders from the international collecting community vied for this tightly curated selection of timepieces which ranged from 1990s to the present day.
Top Five Lots
Lot 19: Patek Philippe, ref. 5980/1R, An impressive and extremely rare pink gold chronograph wristwatch with date, bracelet, certificate of origin and presentation box.
Estimate: CHF 150,000 – 300,000
Price Achieved: CHF 252,000/ $ 261,198/ € 260,946
Lot 52: Patek Philippe, ref. 5740/1G, A luxurious and attractive white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with 24-hour indication, leap year, moon phases, Certificate of Origin and presentation box.
Estimate: CHF 120,000 – 240,000
Price Achieved: CHF 252,000/ $ 261,198/ € 260,946
Lot 27: F.P. Journe, an attractive and technically impressive pink gold dual time wristwatch with double escapement, original guarantee and presentation box.
Estimate: CHF 100,000 – 200,000
Price Achieved: CHF 214,200/ $ 222,018/ € 221,804
Lot 21: Patek Philippe, A hefty and attractive white gold wristwatch with date, certificate of origin and presentation box.
Estimate: CHF 60,000 – 120,000
Price Achieved: CHF 151,200/ $ 156,719/ € 156,568
Lot 51: F.P. Journe, An attractive and fine pink gold chronograph wristwatch with 100th of a second, 20-second, 10-minute registers, warranty and presentation box.
Estimate: CHF 40,000 – 80,000
Price Achieved: CHF 126,000/ $ 130,599/ € 130,473
Sale Total: CHF 2,664,774 / $2,762,038 / €2,759,373 Lots Sold: 53 Lots Offered: 53 Sold by Lot: 100% Sold by Value: 100%
‘Naissance d’une Montre” (‘Birth of a Watch’) brings together craftsmen in an endeavour to preserve horological knowledge; the result is an alliance of talent and expertise characterised by cooperation and sharing.
After having unveiled the fusée-and-chain mechanism and the machine tools that will be used to produce ‘Naissance d’une Montre 3’ timepieces, the third act of the project highlights the depth and breadth of the watchmaking community – and the players striving to make this initiative a success.
As the saying goes, the journey is as important as the destination – and that is very much the spirit in which the ‘Naissance d’une Montre’ project has been carried out since its inception in 2009.
The adage also frames the undertaking entrusted to the teams from Chopard and Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud headed up by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. Now underway, the third phase aims to secure the long-term future of traditional watchmaking knowhow.
The heritage aspirations of the ‘Naissance d’une Montre 3’ project are now becoming clear, as is the strong emphasis on collaboration. The challenge is to promote what used to be known as the ‘common weal’: reviving the collaborative network that formerly extended from Geneva to Jura via Neuchâtel. For three centuries, this arc served as the backbone of watchmaking expertise, embodied not only in specific crafts and workshops but also in tools and books located throughout combe and valley.
‘Naissance d’une Montre 3’ seeks to perpetuate this culture of sharing. Reaching beyond watchmaking museums and associations, the initiative aims to draw together the talents of today and yesteryear, collating notes and sketches and harnessing this collective wisdom for a common purpose: not just the resulting timepieces in and of themselves, but above all the preservation of every aspect of the knowhow that is bringing them into being.
The Time Æon Foundation was established for this purpose in 2005. Bolstered by the experience built up during the ‘Naissance d’une Montre 1’ and ‘Naissance d’une Montre 2’ projects, the Foundation is now making its network and knowledge available to ensure the successful completion of the third phase.
Another result of this collaborative spirit is the emergence of a fully-fledged watchmaking guild, founded on the principle of knowledge-sharing, in which all the stakeholders are pooling their expertise to create an exceptional timepiece which will bear the Chronométrie Ferdinand-Berthoud name.
Among those playing an active role in the project are Greubel Forsey, with the firm providing its in-house experts through the Time Æon foundation, and independent watchmaker Vianney Halter, offering his expertise in the traditional construction and finishing of the fusée and chain mechanism already revealed as being part of the ‘Naissance d’une Montre 3’ project. Another independent contributor is Sylvain Pinaud, providing invaluable advice on the use of the highly specialised lathes used to machine shafts and pins.
Institutional players who serve as the custodians of watchmaking’s archives have also supplied precious resources. The Geneva Watchmaking School has lent its support to the project, too, selecting and releasing a number of historical documents revealing details of the legendary ‘tricks of the trade’ used by leading local watchmakers in times gone by.
Handwritten notes, freehand sketches, and watchmaking treatises by Ferdinand Berthoud and Louis Moinet are also among the raw materials being studied by the watchmakers involved in ‘Naissance d’une Montre’.
The International Museum of Horology at La Chaux-de-Fonds has opened up its inventory registers, providing valuable context that sheds further light on our understanding of a number of traditional machines, particularly those used to fashion the fusée. New tools based on the findings of this archive work are presently in the design phase.
“We’re working together, not just for the cause of a particular watch, but above all to promote the collaborative approach that underpins it”, explains Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. “We have a duty as the heirs to such a great legacy, and we’re delighted to see these watchmakers working with a common aim in mind: ensuring this legacy continues to be handed down and that the historical record is preserved”.
Together, Chopard’s technicians and expert craftsmen are currently working with the artisans at Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, moving forward with the prototype design phase.
The first watch in this limited edition of 11 pieces is expected to be completed in 2024. Collectors will be won over by its entirely new regulating organ, designed in the finest watchmaking tradition.
About “Naissance d’une Montre”
Begun in 2009, “Naissance d’une Montre” is a joint undertaking to reverse the loss of traditional watchmaking knowhow. The initiative brings together a select group of leading independent watchmakers and Fine Watchmaking firms within the Time Æon Foundation, established with the specific aim of ensuring this heritage is passed on through documentation, preservation, and training for the next generation.
One practical outworking of this mission is the production of hand-made, hand-decorated timepieces using historic, manually operated machines without the use of digital technology. Each piece is the fruit of the labours of multiple watchmaking experts – and the apprentices who will one day inherit the responsibility of sharing this knowhow.
Known for his particular commitment to preserving watchmaking heritage, President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud and Co-President of Chopard Karl-Friedrich Scheufele has been keen to support the Time Æon Foundation by being part of the “Naissance d’une Montre 3” project.
Eleven Ferdinand Berthoud timepieces will be made as part of this initiative; the first watch will be sold by auction, with the proceeds going to the Foundation.
Christie’s presents Legendary and Unique Watches: The Collection of a Lifetime, the upcoming new live auction in Geneva offering 112 timepieces considered rare treasures by astute collectors.
One-off creations, personalised dials, prototypes and the No.1 of limited editions – many watches will represent a unique opportunity for collectors around the globe.
Following a month-long world preview that begins in New York on 1 October 2022 and will take a carefully curated selection of timepieces to Hong Kong, Dubai, London, Jakarta and Los Angeles “Legendary and Unique Watches: The Collection of a Lifetime” will arrive in Geneva on 2 November 2022.
The auction will be held on Sunday, 6 November 2022 at 5.00pm in Geneva at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues. It will be Christie’s most important single owner watch collection auction ever in Geneva.
This collection includes some of the earliest examples by renowned independent watchmakers, including very rare references by Patek Philippe, Rolex and others. Together they form the most important single owner collection ever to be offered in Geneva, with a portion of the proceeds going to philanthropy. The auction is expected to fetch in the region of CHF 20 million.
Highlights
Richard Mille, Limited Edition, REF. RM56-01 AN SAPHIR/PR00, NO. 011, 2013
One of Richard Mille’s most extraordinary and ambitious creations, the RM56-01 is about maximum transparency; the case alone is crafted from single blocks of transparent, incredibly difficult to machine sapphire crystal.
The tourbillon shines in the lower part of the transparent dial with titanium minute ring and luminous hour indexes. At 1 o’clock, the torque sector display shows the mainspring tension.
A symmetrical sector display for the power-reserve is placed opposite. Apush-button in the crown allows for three options – W (winding), N (neutral) or H (hands) – which are displayed by a small indicator at 4 o’clock. This magnificent timepiece is probably the first example ever to be offered at international auction. Estimate: CHF 2,500,000-4,500,000.
This exceptional 18k gold Cosmograph Daytona ref. 6241 (case no. 1’757’900) with champagne “Paul Newman” dial and bracelet is an extremely rare chronograph.
The 6241 was produced only between 1966 and 1969 and is therefore a rare reference in its own right. 2250 pieces were made in stainless steel, 300 in 18K gold and 450 in 14K gold.
It was fitted with “non-Oyster” or “non-screw-down” chronograph buttons and a bezel with black plastic insert, the tachymeter scale was printed in white. The dials featured “Rolex Cosmograph” but not always “Daytona”. Estimate: CHF 600,000-1,000,000.
Vacheron Constantin ref. 43050 “Mercator”, special request platinum automatic wristwatch with a Métiers d’Art “Ferrari Enzo” cloisonné enamel dial.
First released in 1994 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the passing of the 16th century cartographer Gerardus Mercator, Vacheron Constantin’s distinctive “Mercator” was a revelation: it displayed time via a double retrograde mechanism with hands in the form of a cartographer’s proportional divider. Upon reaching 12, the hour hand ‘flies’ back to its starting position; the same occurs when the minute hand reaches 60.
The present creation by the world’s oldest watchmaking Manufacture is a “Mercator” made by special request in platinum; its hand-made cloisonné dial representing a “Ferrari Enzo”is a testament to Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art department.
Fitted with a special 21K skeletonized gold rotor, the movement is just as unique. Estimate: CHF 100,000-200,000.
Christies Hong Kong has launched an online watch auction offering a number of the most desirable watches made by Panerai.
Founded in 1860, the legendary Florentine Maison was the official supplier to the Italian Royal Navy. In the 1990s, Panerai started manufacturing watches for the civilian market. Presently based in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, the company is a fully owned subsidiary of the Swiss Richemont group.
Lot 1: Panerai Ref. PAM00784
Scheduled from 14 to 27 September 2022, The Hong Kong Edit – The Panerai Encyclopedia Chapter I online auction is offering 68 carefully curated lots.
Lot 5: Panerai Ref. PAM00519
This exceptional auction, Part IV of The Champion Collection, maintains the high bar set by the themed sales to date from this notable single-owner collection.
Lot 46: Panerai Pam00373 Platino, Pam00376 Oro Bianco and Pam00379 Oro Rosa
The Panerai Encyclopedia – Chapter I online auction by Christies marks part five of the series of themed watch sales from The Champion Collection, the horological journey which began in November of last year.
Lot 54: Panerai Ref. PAM306
Featured Lots
Lot 1: Ref. PAM00784. No. 1 of a limited edition of 100 sets, containing two Radiomir 1940 models with a Minerva-based movement: the ref. PAM00398 RADIOMIR 1940 Oro Rosso (red gold) and the ref. PAM00399 RADIOMIR 1940 Acciaio (stainless steel). Estimate: HKD 160,000 – HKD 320,000.
Lot 5: Ref. PAM00519. Radiomir 1940 Chronograph Oro Rosso (red gold) with a Minerva-based movement. No. 8 of a limited edition of 100 pieces. Estimate: HKD 160,000 – HKD 320,000.
Lot 46: An extremely rare limited edition box set of three Radiomir 3 Days watches: ref. Pam00373 Platino (platinum); ref. Pam00376 Oro Bianco (white gold); and ref. Pam00379 Oro Rosa (rose gold), 47mm diameter, circa 2011. Set no. 3 of 11. Estimate: HKD 240,000-460,000.
Lot 54: Ref. PAM306. Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT Titanio (titanium), one of 150 pieces and one of the most complicated Panerai timepieces ever made. Estimate: HKD 200,000-400,000.
The Geneva-based jewellery design and gem-setting firm Salanitro SA has announced that Patek Philippe SA has acquired a stake in its capital.
Much more than a partnership, this acquisition of a stake in the company symbolises the coming together of two independent Geneva-based family businesses.
Founded by Pierre Salanitro, Salanitro SA is Swiss leader in jewellery creation and stone setting in the world of Haute Horlogerie. The company has been based in Geneva since its creation more than thirty years ago. It works for the most prestigious brands, Salanitro has always favoured creativity, innovation, quality and craftsmanship, respect for tradition, service and a sense of responsibility towards its customers, as well as independence and a family spirit.
While Patek Philippe has always sought out the best partners in their field, the creative passion for watchmaking and the long-standing friendship and trust between Pierre Salanitro and Thierry Stern, as well as their children, played an important role in bringing the two companies together.
Still at the helm of the company, retaining his position as President and CEO of Salanitro SA, Pierre Salanitro – now 56 years old – took into account the desire of his three children not to become involved in the firm’s management.
The acquisition thus represents a guarantee for Pierre Salanitro to ensure that all that has been built up will continue for the long term, and that the firm’s clients will continue to benefit from exceptional service at the highest levels.
About Salanitro SA
With more than 230 employees, Salanitro SA is the Swiss leader in jewellery creation and gemstone setting in the world of Haute Horlogerie. Based in the heart of Geneva, the company was founded in 1990 by Pierre Salanitro, who is still its President and CEO.
Originally known for its expertise in setting diamonds, the company has added to its skills in design, creation, prototyping, the manufacture of components such as cases and bracelets, as well their setting and finishing. At each stage, the consummate professionals at Salanitro SA put all their knowledge and virtuosity at the service of an exceptional final product. Today, this unparalleled specialist cultivates a subtle combination of artisanal know-how and cutting-edge technology.
Salanitro SA was one of the very first companies in 2019 to be doubly certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) with the two international certifications “Chain of Custody” (CoC) and “Code of Practice” (CoP). Today the firm is at the service of a unique portfolio of more than 80 of the most prestigious brands in the world of Fine Watchmaking and Fine Jewellery.
During their Geneva Watch Auction XVI on November 5-6, Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo will be offering three exceptional timepieces made by George Daniels.
The three lots are: The unique Spring Case Tourbillon in yellow gold (estimate in excess of CHF 1 million), a yellow gold Anniversary watch limited to 35 pieces in yellow gold (estimate CHF 300,000-600,000) and a yellow gold Millennium watch limited to 48 pieces (estimate CHF 250,000-500,000).
Before the sale, these creations will be displayed during Geneva Watch Days from 29 August to 1 September, alongside other auction highlights.
George Daniels, Spring Case Tourbillon in yellow gold, Estimate: in excess of CHF 1 million
Known as the founding father of independent watchmaking, George Daniels was one of the greatest master watchmakers in the world. The Spring Case Tourbillon is a leading example of Daniels’ gloriously hand-crafted creations that incorporate the various inventions he made. Daniels only made two unique wristwatches for his own personal use; one of these being this exact novel double-dialled spring case watch with one-minute tourbillon and calendar, completed in 1992.
Simple in its appearance, the double-dialled watch is technically impressive; from both its movement and dial display but also to its surprising spring case, enabling the watch to be popped open to reveal the back dial.
The watch features exquisitely hand guilloché silver dials in the classic Daniels manner with eccentric gold chapters showing hours, minutes, and interlaced seconds, with a subsidiary for power reserve indication. The reverse dial shows the calendar indication and visible tourbillon escapement.
The ingenious two-part case has an inner section holding the movement, which is hinged to the outer, so that when released by a pusher in the band it springs open to reveal the reverse dial. To affect this neatly, the winding crown is cleverly positioned between the lugs.
The tourbillon had already become a signature element of Daniels work, rotating in one-minute and featuring his slim Co-axial escapement. Daniels’ invention of the Co-axial escapement in 1975 was subsequently fitted to all his watches thereafter; it was also adopted by Omega and later by his protégé, Roger Smith.
The double-dialled watch is now being offered in public at auction for the very first time. During his lifetime and by his own hand, George Daniels made 23 pocket watches and just two unique wristwatches.
George Daniels, Anniversary Watch in Yellow Gold, Estimate: CHF 300,000-600,000
In addition, and in collaboration with Roger Smith, two further tourbillon wristwatches and two production series of wristwatches; the Millennium and Anniversary watches have been made.
The George Daniels Anniversary in yellow gold is one of only 35 made in this precious material, created to celebrate the 35th anniversary of the invention of his Co-axial escapement mechanism.
Also included is a George Daniels Millennium, created in 1999 to celebrate the arrival to the market of the new Co-axial escapement and the first example of a Daniels watch made in series, which was limited to 48 pieces.
George Daniels, Millennium Watch in Yellow Gold, Estimate: CHF 250,000-500,000
The Millennium watch features a heavily modified Omega calibre with the Co-axial escapement as well as Daniel’s distinctive guilloche dial.
Viewing
Geneva Watch Days Dates: 29 August – 1 September Location: Hotel Beau Rivage, Quai du Mont-Blanc 13, 1201 Geneva
Auction
The Geneva Watch Auction: XVI Dates: 5-6 November 2022 Location: Hôtel La Réserve, Bellevue, Geneva
The Rolex Daytona Yellow Rolesor 116503 was launched in 2016 as an evolution of Reference 116523.
In 2016, Rolex launched 10 models of reference 116503 Yellow Rolesor Cosmograph Daytona. All of them feature 40mm diameter Oystersteel case with yellow gold bezel, crown and chronograph push-buttons. Depending upon the version, the dial comes with diamond-set or lumed hour markers.
The tachymeter bezel in 18K yellow gold has black scale and digits. The middle links of the Oyster type bracelet are in 18K yellow gold while the outer-links in Oyster steel.
All references from the Daytona Yellow Rolesor 116503 family are powered by the in-house developed Rolex Calibre 4130.
The Rolex 116503 Daytona series launched in 2016 included white, grey, champagne, mother of pearl and dark-blue dial versions.
(1) Reference 116503-0001: White dial with yellow gold hands; Applied hour-markers with Chromalight; White sub-dials with yellow gold outer track with black details; Hour and minute hands with Chromalight.
(2) Reference 116503-0002: Grey dial with yellow gold hands; Applied hour-markers with Chromalight; Grey sub-dials with yellow gold outer track with black details; Hour and minute hands with Chromalight.
(3) Reference 116503-0003: Champagne color dial with yellow gold hands; Applied hour-markers with Chromalight; Champagne color sub-dials with yellow gold outer track with black details; Hour and minute hands with Chromalight.
(4) Reference 116503-0004: Black dial with yellow gold hands; Applied hour-markers with Chromalight; Black sub-dials with gold details; Hour and minute hands with Chromalight.
(5) Reference 116503-0005: White dial with diamond-set hour-markers and yellow gold hands; White sub-dials with yellow gold outer track with black details; Hour and minute hands with Chromalight.
(6) Reference 116503-0006: Champagne-colour dial with diamond-set hour-markers and yellow gold hands; Yellow gold sub-dials with yellow gold hands and black details; Hour and minute hands with Chromalight.
(7) Reference 116503-0007: White Mother of pearl dial with diamond-set hour-markers and yellow gold hands, Hour and minute hands with Chromalight.
(8) Reference 116503-0008: Black dial with diamond-set hour-markers and yellow gold hands, Hour and minute hands with Chromalight; Black sub-dials with gold hands, inner-ring and outer ring.
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Reference 116503-0008
(9) Reference 116503-0009: Brown Mother of pearl dial with diamond-set hour-markers and yellow gold hands; Hour and minute hands with Chromalight; Yellow gold sub-dials with yellow gold hands.
(10) Reference 116503-0010: Dark blue dial with yellow gold Arabic numeral hour-markers; Yellow gold hour, minute and seconds hands; Hour and minute hands with Chromalight; Dark blue sub-dials with red hands, red inner-ring and yellow gold outer ring.
In 2021, Rolex added a new Daytona Yellow Rolesor watch with a black dial and diamond-set hour markers (reference 116503-0011).
Among the 10 references introduced in 2016, seven were discontinued. In addition to the newly released ref. 116503-0011, the other Yellow Rolesor Daytona models currently produced by Rolex are 116503-0001, 116503-0003 and 116503-0004.
VO Vintage, Italian Exhibition Group’s fine vintage watch and jewellery lounge, will be back in Vicenza with numerous new features.
From 9th to 11th September, during Vicenzaoro September (9-13 September), the third edition of the event will offer the community of collectors, dealers and enthusiasts the chance to admire and wear unique objects that bear the value of time as well as to increase their technical skills and exchange views with opinion leaders and watchmaking historians.
In a elegant and secure setting in full privacy, in the foyer of IEG’s Expo Centre, a unique opportunity for a face-to-face encounter with collectors of the calibre of Sandro Fratini, with his son Giulio, and Auro Montanari; opinion leaders from the worlds of watchmaking, such as Bruno Bergamaschi (aka Giorgione), and Fashion and Lifestyle, such as Alessandro Squarzi; the most renowned experts in watchmaking technique and history, such as Professor Ugo Pancani from the FHH – Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva; and great masters of watchmaking, such as Luca Soprana.
At VO Vintage the public will be able to meet exhibitors such as new entry top dealers Robert Maron Watches and Andrea Foffi with Hipster, and re-confirmations such as Lucas Relogios and Luigi Loiero’s Lo Time for watchmaking; Ela Antichità, Karma Pearls Limited, Montegrandi, Francesco Pontillo’s F&F, Barbara Bassi and Art Decò Bijoux for vintage and high jewellery.
In addition to these, VO Vintage has selected a number of independent, contemporary haute horlogerie brands from the AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants). In fact, in Vicenza, contemporary and vintage will go hand in hand thanks to the concurrence and expertise of Vicenzaoro, a top event for global jewellery with an international community of professional visitors from over 120 countries, which provides a prestigious setting for the event.
From book to exhibition, a double new entry for VO Vintage 2022: “Magister Speedmaster Exhibition. Birth and evolution of an Icon” is the exclusive exhibition that Andrea Foffi, for the first time at VO Vintage, will organise at Vicenza Expo Centre with 15 timepieces from his private collection to round up the history of the Speedmaster: from its debut in 1943 with an evergreen movement designed by Albert Piguet, right up to present day.
Seven pairs for seven icons: the original and its modern “re-edition”. A journey that ends with the platinum model made to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the Apollo XI moon landing in 1969.
The collector, who described the myths and secrets in meticulous detail in the book “Magister, a Unique Andrea Foffi Speedmaster Selection” in 2021, combines history and contemporaneity. The observer has the pleasure of discovering the similarities and differences and understanding how the models being made today are an integral part of a story that began long ago and is destined to last through time.
The community’s passion and desire for knowledge can count on a format based on training and information through a full programme of sessions and meetings with experts, opinion leaders and protagonists from the world of watches and jewellery.
Central to VO Vintage is the sector’s culture with talks and master classes that will give everyone, from collectors to first-timers who will experience the beauty of fine timepieces, the opportunity to increase their knowledge and skills. Scheduled events will include FHH classes held by Professor Ugo Pancani on vintage watchmaking topics, such as proper maintenance.
Among the talks, a dialogue on “Past, present and future of watchmaking” with Sandro and Giulio Fratini, Alessandro Squarzi and Maurizio De Angelis and with Luca Soprana, Mo Coppoletta and Auro Montanari on “Watchmaking trends, between mechanical savoir faire and the author’s aesthetic style”.
Bruno Bergamaschi from the WatchHouse forum will moderate some conversations, while Stefano Mazzariol will hold a new edition of the “Newman Master” course.
Vicenzaoro Exhibition, September 2022
A business showcase, a breeding ground for trends, innovation, information and training, a place for global networking, a reference point for the entire gold and jewellery supply chain, recognised and appreciated worldwide, Europe’s most eagerly awaited international event for the gold and jewellery community will be back in Vicenza from 9th to 13th September 2022: VOS Vicenzaoro September – The Jewellery Boutique Show.
Running alongside from 9th to 11th will be VO Vintage, the event open to the public of vintage watch and jewellery collectors and enthusiasts, a chance to buy unique and valuable pieces, negotiate with the best dealers and catch up on the latest developments with sector experts on topics and trends in an exclusive and reserved area.
VOS, organised by Italian Exhibition Group, will showcase a complete offer at Vicenza Expo Centre: high-end and gold jewellery, with the latest collections and the very best of Made in Italy production from the main national manufacturing districts as well as top quality international companies.
Sector leaders will be displaying the most advanced technologies for production and processing, components and semi-finished products, diamonds and precious and coloured stones, services, visual merchandising and packaging.
Companies, buyers, traders, institutions, associations, media and new generations will be the centre and beating heart of the VOS format, a look at the present and the sector’s evolution, from internationalization to corporate social responsibility, from new technologies to communication.
Thanks to the involvement of the city of Vicenza and the entire territory, Vicenzaoro will once again feature the all-round experience of a show both in and outside the exhibition grounds with the eighth edition of VIOFF, offering history, art, music, culture and unique food and wine, all just waiting to be discovered.
