The Horological Society of New York Announces Timepieces for HSNY: 2022 Charity Auction Presented By Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo

The Horological Society of New York (HSNY) has announced the details of the timepieces for HSNY: 2022 Charity Auction, presented online by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo from July 6-13, 2022.

Now in its second year as an online auction, HSNY members and friends will have the opportunity to bid from anywhere in the world for a great cause. All sale proceeds will benefit HSNY in its ongoing mission to advance the art and science of horology, which includes offering financial aid to watchmaking institutions and scholarships to full-time watchmaking students.

Bidders can expect top picks from Swiss, German, Japanese and American brands, including limited edition, sold-out timepieces, a coveted Tiffany stamped watch, vintage gems, a prototype model and much more. Best of all, a ‘No Reserve’ policy will apply to all timepieces, encouraging auction-goers to bid enthusiastically.

Lot items from Timepieces for HSNY: 2022 Charity Auction include:

  • Lot 1: Unimatic x Massena LAB, U1-MLBN “Family and Friends”, DLC-plated stainless steel, circa 2020. Brand New. Donated by Massena LAB.
  • Lot 2: NOMOS Glashütte, Ludwig Neomatik 39, stainless steel, circa 2020. Brand New. Donated by NOMOS Glashütte.
  • Lot 3: Equation of Time x Atom Moore ‘Fat Arrow’ Prototype, stainless steel, circa 2022. Brand New, with limited edition metal print. Atom Moore and Roland Murphy/EOT Watches.
  • Lot 4: GRAND SEIKO, Reference SBGW277 U.S. Exclusive, stainless steel, circa 2021. Brand New. Donated by Grand Seiko.
  • Lot 5: ULYSSE NARDIN, Open-face chronograph pocket watch with certificate and presentation box, gunmetal blue steel, circa 1912. Donated by Ulysse Nardin.
  • Lot 6: JAEGER-LECOULTRE, Reverso, stainless steel, circa 2022. Brand New. Donated by Jaeger-LeCoultre.
  • Lot 7: PATEK PHILIPPE, Reference 715, open-face pocket watch retailed by Tiffany & Co., 18K yellow gold, circa 1967. Donated by Collectability.
  • Lot 8: TAG HEUER, HODINKEE TAG Heuer Carrera ‘Dato’ Limited Edition, stainless steel, circa 2020. Brand New. Donated by HODINKEE.
  • Lot 9: ZENITH, Collective x Zenith Chronomaster El Primero C.01, stainless steel, circa 2019. Brand New. Donated by Collective Horology.

About the Horological Society of New York

Founded in 1866, the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) is one of the oldest continuously operating horological associations in the world. Today, HSNY is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization dedicated to advancing the art and science of horology through education. Members are a diverse mix of watchmakers, clockmakers, executives, journalists, auctioneers, historians, salespeople and collectors, reflecting the rich nature of horology in New York City and around the world.

Phillips The New York Watch Auction: SIX – Results

Concluding a white glove season for Phillips Watches, The New York Watch Auction: SIX realized $30.3 million – more than tripling its pre-sale total low estimate of $9.8 million. Bringing the Spring season total for the category to $127.2 million, the results reaffirm Phillips’ place as the global market leader.

Multiple records for individual models in the fields of vintage, contemporary, and independents were achieved during the live auction at Phillips’ New York headquarters at 432 Park Avenue. Bidders from the international community, across nearly 70 countries, vied for rare and historic timepieces, participating in the room, online, and over the phone.

Leading the auction was the very first platinum George Daniels Anniversary Watch ever made, bearing the unique serial number “00.” Realizing $2,389,500, it set a record for any George Daniels wristwatch – and any British-made wristwatch – sold at auction.

Following its launch in 2010, a total of 47 watches were made to commemorate the 35th anniversary of the co-axial escapement, with just four examples produced in platinum, like the present lot. George Daniels wanted the Anniversary model to also be a celebration of his life’s work, and the platinum “00” is a wonderful representation of the best in handmade, traditional English watchmaking. A portion of the proceeds from the sale will benefit The George Daniels Educational Trust, The Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, and the Horological Society of New York.

A fresh-to-market Rolex Paul Newman Daytona Lemon ref. 6264 soared past its estimate to over $2 million. Named “El Limoncito” as an homage to the Mexican origins of the family who owned this watch since its production in 1969, the watch’s bracelet is also stamped “Hecho in Mexico.” With its grèné yellow dial, black subdials, and white graphics, the Lemon is perhaps the most striking and unusual configuration of Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman and is seldom seen publicly.

Independent makers also saw fierce competition, with three examples by F.P.Journe selling for over $1 million. A unique and historically important F. P.Journe platinum Chronomètre Souverain wristwatch, which was gifted to George Daniels by none other than Mr. Journe, realized $1,482,000, nearly six times its low estimate and a world record for the model at auction.

The Tourbillon Souverain with jade dial saw spirited bidding up to $1,240,000 against an estimate of $200,000-400,000, while the Tourbillon Souverain No. 035/99T sold for $1,361,000.

Timepieces by DeBethune, Greubel Forsey, Urban Jurgensen, and Konstantin Chaykin also performed exceptionally well.

TAG Heuer Museum acquired James Garner’s unique Carrera for a record price of $176,400.

The upcoming Phillips online watch auctions are The Horological Society of New York Charity Online Auction II sale taking place from 6 to 13 July and the Hong Kong Online Watch Auction I taking place from 21 to 28 July.

Top Ten Lots

Lot 12: George Daniels, Anniversary

An extremely rare, spectacular, and historically important platinum co-axial limited-edition wristwatch with date and power reserve indication, bearing serial number “00”, with a portion of the proceeds to benefit The George Daniels Educational Trust, The Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, and the Horological Society of New York, Circa 2019. Estimate: $500,000 – 1,000,000. Sold for $2,389,500 (world auction record for a British wristwatch).

Lot 111: Rolex, Daytona Paul Newman Lemon, Ref. 6264

An outstanding, fresh-to-the-market, exceptionally wellpreserved, and extremely rare yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with ‘Paul Newman Lemon’ exotic dial, white subdial graphics, and bracelet, offered by the family of the original owner, Circa 1969. Estimate: $600,000 – 1,200,000. Sold for $2,087,000 (world auction record for the model)

Lot 115: F.P. Journe, Chronometre Souverain

A unique and historically important platinum wristwatch with power reserve indication, Presented to George Daniels, with signed F. P. Journe letter and presentation box, 2010
Estimate: $250,000 – 500,000. Sold for $1,482,000 (world auction record for the model).

Lot 116: F.P. Journe, Tourbillon Souverain

A very early, historically important, and attractive platinum tourbillon wristwatch with remontoir d’egalité, and certificate of authenticity, numbered 035/99T, 1999. Estimate: $300,000 – 600,000. Sold for $1,361,000.

Lot 10: F.P. Journe, Tourbillon Souverain

A sublime and extremely rare tourbillon wristwatch with jade dial, constant force remontoire, power reserve, dead beat seconds, certificate of authenticity, and presentation box, 2015. Estimate: $200,000 – 400,000. Sold for $1,240,000 (world auction record for the model)

Lot 19: Patek Philippe, Ref. 5016R-010

An extremely special, rare, and well-preserved pink gold perpetual calendar minute repeating tourbillon wristwatch with additional black diamond dial, retrograde date, moon phase, Breguet numerals, Circa 2001. Estimate: $300,000 – 600,000. Sold for $840,700.

Lot 11: Roger Smith, Series 2 Open Dial

A magnificent and extremely limited platinum wristwatch with open dial, power reserve indication, booklet, and presentation box, 2017. Estimate: $150,000 – 300,000. Sold for $840,700 (world auction record for the brand)

Lot 110: Rolex, Daytona Rainbow, Ref. 116595RBOW

A like new, dazzling, audacious, and unworn pink gold, diamond, and sapphire-set chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, guarantee, and presentation box, Circa 2018. Estimate: $200,000 – 400,000. Sold for $693,000 (world auction record for the model)

Lot 49: A. Lange & Söhne, Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst, Ref. 704.048

An extremely rare and sublime platinum tourbillon wristwatch with oversized date display, guarantee, and presentation box, numbered 16 of 20, commemorating the 20th anniversary of the Lange 1, 2014. Estimate: $120,000 – 240,000. Sold for $529,200 (world auction record for the model)

Lot 50: Patek Philippe, Ref. 3939HG-001

Only the fifth example to appear publicly, a factory double sealed white gold minute repeating tourbillon wristwatch with Breguet numerals and Certificate of Origin, 2007. Estimate: $250,000 – 500,000. Sold for $504,000.

Quick facts

Name of the auction: The New York Watch Auction: SIX
Date: 11-12 June 2022
Sale Total: $30,332,230 / £24,624,343 / €28,803,594
Lots Sold: 162
Lots Offered: 162
Sold by Lot: 100
Sold by Value: 100%

Source: Phillips

Christopher Ward Becomes the Official Global Timing Partner for Everton Football Club

Everton has expanded its portfolio of international partners by signing a multi-year deal with British watch brand Christopher Ward. The agreement with the UK’s leading mechanical watchmaker sees them become the Club’s Official Global Timing Partner.

Christopher Ward was founded in 2005 as the world’s first online-only premium watch brand offering hand-crafted, Swiss-made mechanical watches at previously unheard-of prices.

Christopher Ward Becomes the Official Global Timing Partner for Everton Football Club

Today they have customers in more than 100 countries and are renowned for their pioneering approach to watchmaking, including the creation of the first commercially viable mechanical watch movement from a British watch brand in over 50 years, the acclaimed Calibre SH21.

Through the partnership, Christopher Ward branding will appear on official Everton channels and assets, including on backdrops and LED screens at Goodison Park on matchdays.

They intend to embrace Everton’s unique culture by creating money-can’t-buy experiences for Evertonians and Christopher Ward fans around the world and work with the club’s award-winning charity, Everton in the Community.

Timex Group Announces “TIME FOR ME”, the New Adidas Originals Timepieces Campaign & Product Offering

Timex Group, a world leader in watchmaking, announces the global debut of the TIME FOR ME campaign for adidas Originals Timepieces, in conjunction with the launch of the first collection designed, manufactured and distributed by Timex Group.

Adidas Originals Timepieces

Time For Me creates a series of snapshots that capture the dynamic, impromptu and honest lives of the Young Creative. A collective who champions unique personality and self-expression to make this their time and seize the day.

Adidas Originals Timepieces

Taking cues from the Young Creatives refreshed outlook, Time For Me shows how the watch adds new creative potential and possibilities to further express their style and ultimately become another essential accessory to not only their outfit but the way they live their life.

Adidas Originals Timepieces

“The new collection is where design exploration and watch functionality converge,” said Giorgio Galli, Chief Executive Creative Director of Timex Group. “This collection tells a story of purpose and thought and lends itself to self-expression and self-awareness.”

Reeewind Time – DIGITAL TWO
Reeewind Time – DIGITAL TWO

Reeewind TimeDIGITAL TWO:  Reeewind Time centers around the musical expressiveness being unleashed by Young Creatives, live and direct from their bedrooms.

Game On The Go – PROJECT TWO
Game On The Go – PROJECT TWO

Game On The GoPROJECT TWO: Game On The Go centers around the ‘everyday’ home of sport for our Young Creative; the streets. A ‘pitch’ we’ve all shared and made memories on since the beginning.

Sustainably Strapped – PROJECT ONE
Sustainably Strapped – PROJECT ONE

Sustainably Strapped PROJECT ONE:  Sustainably Strapped focuses on evoking feelings of purity. Stripping things back and capturing the watch as naturally as possible to encapsulate the sustainable materials that it is made up of, while using positive gestures to create a story around the product’s bio-based resin strap, recycled ocean plastic case and solar powered features.

Concrete Junglists – DIGITAL ONE GMT
Concrete Junglists – DIGITAL ONE GMT

Concrete JunglistsDIGITAL ONE GMT: Concrete Junglists centers around showing the Digital One watch as a facilitator to a Young Creative lifestyle that is lived solely within the concrete jungle that is their city.

Adidas Originals Timepieces

The new range blends the Timex Group watchmaking and design expertise and adidas Originals’ street culture inspiration and attention to sustainability. It is available across adidas owned stores and http://www.adidas.com, and through select stores globally.

All watches are available at Watchshop.com, £49-£79.

Christie’s New York Important Watches of Exceptional Provenance, Featuring The Kairos Collection Part III – Results

Important Watches of Exceptional Provenance, Featuring The Kairos Collection Part III, presented across two evening sales on 8-9 June, totaled $21,743,070, setting a new record for the highest total ever for a watches auction at Christie’s New York.

The auction was sold 97% by lot, 141% hammer above value, and attracted global participation from 30 countries and 19% new registrants. 58% of all lots surpassed pre-sale high estimates.

The sale was highlighted by the grand finale of The Kairos Collection, which achieved $13,895,160. The collection of 128 extraordinary modern Patek Philippe timepieces totaled $21,885,101 globally from auctions across Geneva, Hong Kong and New York. The New York session was led by Patek Philippe Ref. 5531R-012, an exceptional 18k rose gold Grande Complication watch, which sold for $2,220,000.

Patek Philippe Ref 5531R-012 Lake Geneva
Patek Philippe Ref 5531R-012 Lake Geneva

Additionally, the sale presented a variety of important watches of exceptional provenance, most from original owners and families.

Patek Philippe Ref 3448G Red Dot
Patek Philippe Ref 3448G Red Dot

Some of the highlights include a rare Rolex “Patent Pending”, “Double Red” Sea Dweller, Ref. 1665, which sold for $176,400, and a Patek Philippe Ref. 2526J, a newly discovered 18k yellow gold wristwatch retailed and signed by Tiffany & Co., which realized $144,900.

Notable Results

The Kairos Collection

  • Lot 58: Patek Philippe Ref. 5531R-012, with Miniature Cloisonné Enamel Dial Depicting the Lavaux Vineyards on the Shores of Lake Geneva. This 18k Rose Gold Grande Complication watch presented at Baselworld 2018 merges two iconic horological mechanisms: Minute Repeater and World Time. Price realized: $2,220,000

  • Lot 57: Patek Philippe Ref. 5275P-001, 175th Anniversary, Platinum Hour Strike Chiming Wristwatch with Digital Jump Hour Jumping Minutes And Seconds, Created in a Limited Edition of 175 Examples. Price realized: $907,200

  • Lot 64: Patek Philippe Ref. 5950 ⁄ 1A-010, Steel Cushion-Shaped Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph on Bracelet, Limited Series of 10. Price realized: $693,000

  • Lot 4: Patek Philippe Ref. 5650G-001, aquanaut, advanced research, a rare 18k white gold wristwatch with dual timezones. Price realized: $630,000

  • Lot 65: Patek Philippe Ref. 5004R-018, 18K Rose Gold Perpetual Calendar Split Second Chronograph with Black Dial. Price realized: $567,000

  • Lot 63: Patek Philippe Ref. 5740⁄1G-001, Nautilus 18K White Gold Perpetual Calendar with Leap Year Indicator, Moon Phases, and Nautilus Cufflinks, Retailed & Signed by Tiffany & Co. Price realized: $516,600

  • Lot 39: Patek Philippe Ref. 5711⁄1P-001, Nautilus 40th Anniversary, Limited Series Platinum Wristwatch with Date & Diamond Hour Markers. Price realized: $478,800

  • Lot 28: Patek Philippe Ref. 5711⁄1A-014, Nautilus “Green Dial” Steel with Date. Price realized: $441,000

  • Lot 61: Patek Philippe Ref. 5372P-010, Platinum Split Seconds Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases. Price realized: $390,600

  • Lot 66: Patek Philippe Ref. 5004P-039, Platinum Split Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phases. Price realized: $352,800

  • Lot 22: Patek Philippe Ref. 5968G-010, Aquanaut 18K White Gold Fly-Back Chronograph With Date, Retailed & Signed by Tiffany & Co. Price realized: $333,900

  • Lot 50: Patek Philippe Ref. 5968A-001, Aquanaut Steel Fly-Back Chronograph with Date, Retailed & Signed by Tiffany & Co. Price realized: $333,900

  • Lot 5: Patek Philippe Ref. 5270P-001, Platinum Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases, Leap Year & Day/Night Indicator. Price realized: $277,200

  • Lot 9: Patek Philippe Ref. 5970J-001, 18K Yellow Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Leap Year Indicator and Moon Phases. Price realized: $264,600

  • Lot 56: Patek Philippe, Ref. 5980⁄1R-001 Nautilus 18k Rose Gold Fly-Back Chronograph with Date. Price realized: $264,600

  • Lot 14: Patek Philippe Ref. 5726⁄1A-014, Nautilus Steel Annual Calendar with Moon Phases, Retailed & Signed by Tiffany & Co. Price realized: $226,800

  • Lot 19: Patek Philippe Ref. 5711⁄1R-001, Nautilus 18K Rose Gold Version with Date. Price realized: $201,600

  • Lot 25: Patek Philippe Ref. 5204R-001, 18K Rose Gold Split Second Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases and Leap Year Indicator, Retailed by Tiffany & Co. Price realized: $201,600

  • Lot 17: Patek Philippe Ref. 5131⁄1P-001, World Time with Cloisonné Enamel Dial, Platinum case and Bracelet. Price realized: $189,000

  • Lot 20: Patek Philippe Ref. 5160⁄500G-001, Hand Engraved 18k White Gold Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch with Retrograde Date Display, Leap Year Indicator, and Officer’s Caseback. Price realized: $189,000

  • Lot 29: Patek Philippe Ref. 5070P-001, Platinum Chronograph with Blue Dial. Price realized: $189,000

  • Lot 40: Patek Philippe Ref. 5168G-001, Aquanaut 18k White Gold Version with Date, Retailed & Signed by Tiffany & Co. Price realized: $189,000

  • Lot 68: Patek Philippe Ref. 3970EJ, 2nd Series 18K Yellow Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Leap Year Indicator and Moon Phases. Price realized: $176,400

  • Lot 47: Patek Philippe Ref. 5550P-001, Platinum Advanced Research, Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch with Leap Year Indicator and Moon Phases. Price realized: $157,500

  • Lot 52: Patek Philippe Ref. 5170G-015, 18k White Gold Chronograph with Special Order Blue Breguet Dial. Price realized: $157,500

  • Lot 7: Patek Philippe Ref. 5170P-001, Platinum Chronograph with Diamond Indices, Retailed & Signed by Tiffany & Co. Price realized: $151,200

  • Lot 12: Patek Philippe Ref. 5990⁄1A-001, Nautilus Steel Dual Time Fly-Back Chronograph. Price realized: $151,200

  • Lot 59: Patek Philippe Ref. 5711⁄1A-010, Nautilus Steel Blue Dial Wristwatch with Date. Price realized: $151,200

Other Lots

  • Lot 111: Patek Philippe Ref. 3448G, “Red Dot” 18k White Gold Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch with Leap Year Indicator, One of Two Known. Price realized: $1,008,000

  • Lot 94: Rolex, Ref. 6263, Cosmograph Daytona, “Oyster Sotto”, Paul Newman Dial. Price realized: $693,000

  • Lot 96: F.P. Journe Chronometre A Resonance, 38mm Platinum Dual Time Wristwatch with Power Reserve and Dual Escapement Brass Movement. Price realized: $403,200

  • Lot 95: Rolex Ref. 6263, Daytona 14K Yellow Gold Chronograph, Retailed and Signed by Tiffany & Co. Price realized: $340,200

  • Lot 137: Audemars Piguet Ref. 25636PT, Royal Oak Skeletonized Platinum Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phases. Price realized: $327,600

  • Lot 135: Patek Philippe Ref. 3700⁄11J, Nautilus “JUMBO” with 18K Yellow Gold Case and Bracelet. Price realized: $252,000

  • Lot 97: F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier 38mm Platinum Annual Calendar with Automatic Brass Movement and Retrograde Date. Price realized: $214,200

  • Lot 101: Rolex Ref. 6241, Daytona Steel Chronograph with “Paul Newman” Dial. Price realized: $214,200

  • Lot 81: Rolex Ref. 6262, “PAUL NEWMAN” Dial, Daytona Steel Chronograph with Bracelet. Price realized: $201,600

  • Lot 116: Rolex Ref. 6262, Daytona “PAUL NEWMAN” Dial, Steel Chronograph with Bracelet. Price realized: $201,600

  • Lot 113: Patek Philippe Ref. 1463R, “TASTI TONDI”, 18K Rose Gold Chronograph with Two-Tone Silvered Dial, Retailed by Serpico Y Laino. Price realized: $189,000

  • Lot 125: F.P. Journe Chronometre Optimum, 18K Rose Gold Chronometer with Constant Force Remontoir and Dead-Beat Seconds. Price realized: 189,000

  • Lot 93: Rolex Ref. 1665, “patent pending”, “Double Red” Sea Dweller, a very fine and rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with date. Price realized: $176,400

  • Lot 129: Breguet Ref. 3857, 250th Anniversary, 18K Yellow Gold Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Wristwatch with Jump Hours, Retrograde Date, and Leap Year Indicator. Price realized: $163,800

  • Lot 131: Rolex Ref. 116506, Cosmograph Daytona Platinum Chronograph with Brown Ceramic Bezel and Glacier Dial. Price realized: $163,800

  • Lot 126: F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier 18K Pink Gold Triple Calendar with Subsidiary Seconds. Price realized: $151,200

  • Lot 112: Patek Philippe Ref. 2526J, 18K Yellow Gold 1st Series Enamel Dial Wristwatch Retailed and Signed by Tiffany & Co. Price realized: $144,900

[View the results of all lots]

Audemars Piguet Opens a New AP House in Meatpacking District, New York City

Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet has opened its first AP House in the United States, located in New York City’s Meatpacking District.

The AP House New York joins existing international locations in Bangkok, Barcelona, Hong Kong, London, Madrid, Milan, Munich, Shanghai, St. Barths, Tel Aviv, Tokyo and Zurich. The brand’s AP House concept represents the forward-thinking makeup of Audemars Piguet through its conceptually innovative, intimate and experiential approach to retail.

Audemars Piguet AP House in Meatpacking District, New York City

Officially opened on 23 May 2022, the AP House New York’s location is rich in historical context and underscores the brand’s blend of heritage and tradition. Designed as an authentic home away from home for lovers of the brand, the AP House concept was created in collaboration with some of the Manufacturer’s most valued clients

AP House New York’s location on the second floor of the original, 19th century building above Pastis in the Meatpacking District, illuminates Audemars Piguet as embracing modernity while honouring the brand’s legacy.

Audemars Piguet AP House in Meatpacking District, New York City

Eponymous with its origins, the Meatpacking District, positioned between Chelsea and Greenwich Village, is a storied neighbourhood in lower Manhattan that once hosted 250 butchers and packing plants. Historical, societal and industrial changes over time resulted in the districts reimagining.

The eventual opening of Keith McNally’s Pastis on Gansevoort Street in 1999 represented a true renaissance for the neighbourhood that is now home to world-renowned brands, galleries and hospitality.

Audemars Piguet AP House in Meatpacking District, New York City

The AP House’s space, with 5,100 square feet on the interior and 2,800 square feet of terrace, features comfort and a curated experience as the ultimate luxury amenities, as clients are invited to privately relax, reflect, connect or disconnect.

Audemars Piguet partnered with Bonetti/Kozerski Architecture to execute the interior design. One key hallmark of the AP House is an oak panelled gallery space displaying Audemars Piguet’s novelty and current collection timepieces, including a selection of Royal Oak 50th Anniversary references. Additionally, a heritage room allows clients and visitors to experience historical timepieces representing milestones of the brand’s history.

Audemars Piguet AP House in Meatpacking District, New York City

Other features include the terrace, an outdoor reprieve for guests’, a baby grand piano and a lounge area with windows facing the historic Gansevoort Street. Design elements such as wideplank oak floors, brick walls and plastered surfaces curate the ambiance of Audemars Piguet at AP House New York. Sixty custom-designed, mirrored vitrines anchor the space around its otherwise unspoken focal point: an enchantment with the world of Haute Horlogerie.

Conceived as a space of encounter, the AP House New York will also provide a platform to foster deeper relationships with clients and friends of the brand through exclusive experiences that showcase the Manufacture’s creations and its savoir-faire.

Contact details

AP House New York
52-58 Gansevoort Street, New York, NY 10014 between Washington St & Greenwich St, 2nd-floor
Operating Hours: Monday – Saturday 11:00 AM – 6:00 PM; Sunday 12:00 – 5:00

Pim Koeslag Acquires a Majority Stake in Christiaan Van Der Klaauw Astronomical Watches

Master watchmaker Pim Koeslag has acquired a majority stake in the luxury watch atelier Christiaan van der Klaauw Astronomical Watches. Koeslag will join the existing management team as Technical Director, along with Daniël Reintjes (CEO/Creative Director) and Maria Reintjes (Marketing Director) who will retain a share in the company.

Christiaan van der Klaauw started his own watch atelier and presented his first clock with astronomical complications in 1974. In 1989, he became an honorary member of the Swiss Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), the prestigious association of independent watchmakers.

In 1996, Christiaan van der Klaauw presented his first wristwatch, and in 1999, he presented the Planetarium, a wristwatch comprising the world’s smallest mechanical Planetarium.

In 2009, Christiaan van der Klaauw sold the company to the designer couple Daniël and Maria Reintjes with whom he had established a business relationship for ten years. Daniël and Maria immediately started repositioning the brand.

The new directors decided to focus exclusively on astronomical watches, and ‘Astronomical Watches’ was added to the name.

A new collection and beautiful astronomical complications ensued – including the Real Moon Joure with the most accurate 3D moon phase in the world. In addition, two special Planetarium masterpieces were developed exclusively for the high jewelry Maison Van Cleef& Arpels.

In 13 years, they transformed the CVDK company into a niche atelier, becoming the only watch atelier in the world that is wholly devoted to the design and the production of exclusive, hand-made astronomical watches.

In 2016, CVDK was recognised as an Haute Horlogerie atelier by the Fondation Haute Horlogerie (FHH). Last year, Daniël and Maria received the ultimate acknowledgement in watchmaking and were awarded the prestigious Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize for the CVDK Planetarium EiseEisinga at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG).

With the arrival of master watchmaker PimKoeslag, continuity is guaranteed for the future of Christiaan van der Klaauw Astronomical Watches. Besides maintaining the existing business, more developments are planned, including a first in-house movement.

Pim Koeslag was born in 1981 in Almelo, The Netherlands. At the age of 18, he attended watchmaking school in Amsterdam, where he won the prize for the best watchmaker at school. This success gave him the opportunity to do an extensive training at Patek Philippe in Geneva. After his training he started working at Frederique Constant as Technical Director.

During this 20-year period as Technical Director, he developed no fewer than 30 calibres, among them a tourbillon, a minute repeater and a chronograph. Koeslag was also responsible for starting the luxury brand Ateliers deMonaco where he held the position of CEO.

After living and working in Geneva for over 20 years, it was time for a new phase in his life and the Koeslag family returned to the Netherlands. Right at the same time when Daniël and Maria Reintjes were looking to reinforce the company to prepare for the next phase for Christiaan van der Klaauw Astronomical Watches.

Phillips Releases Full Catalogue for The New York Watch Auction: SIX

Phillips has unveiled the full catalogue for The New York Watch Auction: SIX, the company’s first-ever spring watch auction in New York.

Featuring over 160 lots, in addition to the George Daniels Anniversary previously announced, the sale will also be led by a fresh-to-market Rolex Paul Newman Daytona Lemon ref. 6264 “El Limoncito,” estimated at $600,000-1.2 million.

The New York Watch Auction: : SIX will also offer several other important and historically significant time pieces from Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, F.P.Journe, Richard Mille, Cartier, De Bethune, Roger Smith, Omega, Heuer, and Zenith, among others.

The auction will take place over the course of two sessions on 11-12 June, with lots 1-82 offered on Saturday, the 11th, and lots 83-163 offered on Sunday, the 12th.

Leading the selection of Rolex watches is “El Limoncito,” an exceptionally well-preserved Rolex Paul Newman Daytona Lemon ref. 6264, which has remained in the same family collection for over half a century, and features the rarest exotic dial for the model.

A superb selection of top-quality vintage and modern Patek Philippe watches will be offered, led by the legendary ref. 5016 minute repeater with perpetual calendar and tourbillon in 18 karat rose gold, and an incredibly well-preserved vintage reference 3450 perpetual calendar with factory sapphire exhibition caseback complete with box and original certificate.

An extraordinary selection of vintage and modern Nautilus models, including an 18 karat “Jumbo” ref. 3700/1 retailed by Gubelin – one of only three ever offered publicly, a ref. 5976/1G 40th Anniversary from 2016, and a now-discontinued ref. 5711/1A-014 Nautilus with green dial will also be offered.

The auction will also feature an outstanding selection of models from Independent and other top collectors’ brands. F.P.Journe highlights include a very early Tourbillon Souverain with serial number 035/99T, an extremely rare 40mm Tourbillon Souverain model with jade dial, and a unique Harry Winston Opus 1 Chronomètre à Résonance – a collaboration between Harry Winston and F.P.Journe from 2001.

Other noteworthy highlights include an A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerksunst – 1 of only 20 examples made, and a Roger Smith Series 2 Open Dial in platinum. The sale will also offer a selection of timepieces with special serial numbers including a De Bethune Titan Hawk V2 with serial number 000, and a Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30o Technique Blue with serial number 1.

Finally, this sale will present Chapter II of a special collection of watches known as “Ride the Wave” – nearly 20 extremely well-preserved vintage and modern watches from a renowned American surgeon, surfer, and collector.

As announced earlier this season, the sale will also include watches from the personal collection of Academy Award-Nominee James Garner, The No. 00 George Daniels Anniversary Watch, and the Unique Chronomètre Souverain Gifted to George Daniels by F.P. Journe.

Auction Highlights

Lot 111: ROLEX, Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman “El Limoncito”, ref. 6264

This fresh-to-the-market, stunning 18K yellow gold reference 6264 with Paul Newman dial, is nicknamed “El Limoncito.”

With its grèné yellow dial, black subdials, and white graphics, the Lemon is perhaps the most striking and unusual configuration of Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman and is seldom seen publicly.

A Spanish-language play on the Italian nickname for the Lemon, the so-called “Limoncino,” “El Limoncito” is a nod to the Mexican origins of the family who owned this watch since its production in 1969.

Additionally, the clasp of the Rolex bracelet is stamped “Hecho in Mexico,” indicating it was fabricated in Mexico under the specifications of Rolex. Estimate: $600,000 – 1,200,000.

Lot 110: ROLEX, Cosmograph Daytona “Rainbow”

This stunning example of the Rainbow Daytona is virtually impossible to acquire at retail, even for longstanding customers of Rolex. The present lot has remained virtually unworn since its initial purchase in 2018 and retains all of its original accessories.

The reference 116595RBOW is a captivating reminder of the joie de vivre that wearing a watch can inspire, as well as the creative, technical, and aesthetic excellence of the Rolex brand. With 36 rainbow-hued sapphires, 56 diamonds adorning the lugs and crown guards, and rainbow sapphires indicating the hours, every single gemstone used is internally flawless.

Each sapphire is perfectly cut to fit without prongs into the bezel, and selected with the right color for transitioning to the stones on adjacent sides, so that rather than seeming like 36 individual stones, they blend into one another.

Due to the difficulty in sourcing these stones, subjecting them to Rolex’s high standards, and then fitting them into the watch, production numbers remain extremely low and across all metals, very few have surfaced at auction. Estimate: $200,000 – 400,000.

Lot 19: PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5016R-010

This outstanding Patek Philippe 5016R comes with two stunning dials. Fitted with an anthracite gray dial with applied Breguet numerals and accompanied by an extra, extremely rare semi-gloss black dial with diamond hour markers within pink gold settings.

Both dials bear the same movement number as on the original certificate – confirming their originality to the watch. Produced in yellow, white, and rose gold, as well as platinum (and a unique piece for charity in stainless steel) reference 5016. It is believed that approximately 200 examples were manufactured until production ended in 2011.

Further accompanied with its original Certificate of Origin, chronometer certificate, presentation box, additional caseback, the presence of an additional dial made especially for this watch elevates the importance of an already outstanding and singular timepiece. Estimate: $300,000 – 600,000.

Lot 90: PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 3450 Sapphire Caseback

Another stunning lot to join Phillips’ June sale is the Patek Philippe reference 3450. Launched in 1981, reference 3450 was the successor to the reference 3448 – Patek’s very first automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch.

While aesthetically similar to reference 3448, it most notably features a leap year indication on the dial. Setting this specific ref. 3450 apart from its kin, it is one of only 6 total examples known to be fitted with a sapphire caseback – a special request from the original owner and confirmed by a letter from Patek Philippe.

Since appearing at auction in 2004 when it was consigned by the original owner, it has remained ensconced in one of the greatest American collections of vintage Patek Philippe wristwatches.

Fully corroborated and in a breathtaking state of preservation, the flawless dial is housed within a case in near-perfect condition, having never been previously polished.

Complete with its original Certificate of Origin, original box, and correspondence from Patek Philippe confirming the originality of the sapphire case back, it is one of the finest examples of a reference 3450 to crown a collection of the world’s best timepieces. Estimate: $250,000 – 500,000.

Lot 88: PATEK PHILIPPE, Nautilus “Jumbo” Ref. 3700/1 retailed by Gübelin

The present watch is only the third ever Gübelin-signed Nautilus 3700/1 in yellow gold to appear at auction, with this particular one having never been offered publicly. It is a stunning example, preserved in all original condition, with its dial flawless and original to the watch.

The original, Gay Frères-signed flat Nautilus clasp is correct, and the bracelet remains absolutely rigid and tight throughout. The “Jumbo” nickname referred to the 42mm case diameter, which was considered oversized for the era. While the Nautilus was initially not well received, its popularity quickly grew, and soon became a mainstay of Patek Philippe’s collection with subsequent models including chronographs and perpetual calendars.

The original reference 3700/1 was in production from its introduction in 1976 until 1981 and featured a straight bracelet, versus the tapered bracelet of the successor reference 3700/11. Estimate: $120,000 – 240,000.

Lot 163: PATEK PHILIPPE, Nautilus, Ref. 5711/1A-014

In 2021, Patek Philippe announced the imminent discontinuation of the reference 5711/1A in its entirety and introduced a special “olive green” dial to only be produced for one year to mark its departure.

Alongside a baguette diamond-set bezel variant, these two final 5711s (apart from the limited run of 170 “Tiffany Blue” double signed pieces) would mark the end of the production of the reference that has been a mainstay of the Patek Philippe collection since its introduction in 2006.

Given that no more of these 5711/1A-014 pieces will be produced and are now fully discontinued, the present example is one of the extremely few opportunities to acquire this intensely limited run of one of the most iconic sports watch references of all time. Estimate: $80,000 – 160,000.

Lot 116: F.P. JOURNE, Tourbillon Souverain No. 035/99T

The Tourbillon Souverain offered in the June sale is a first-generation model in platinum with a superb white gold dial, eloquently embodying F.P. Journe’s inimitable style both in terms of aesthetics and technical mastery.

Made from 2000 to 2005, these first-generation Resonance models, like the present lot, feature rhodium-plated brass movements and a 38mm case. This watch is an extremely early and rare example of Journe’s Tourbillon with remontoir d’egalité and is numbered 035, dating from 1999, and is classified as a second-generation version of the Tourbillon due to its similarity to the Souscription series dials.

Completely original, the dial’s printed text appears as though it is floating over the dial surface – a trait that is prominently featured in this example, where it can almost seem as though one is seeing double. Furthermore, it exhibits the remarkable reflectivity, sheen, and luster found in Journe’s’ earliest dials that is today so coveted by collectors. The case back engraving style is Journe’s earliest-extremely shallow and also extremely sought after.

The present lot offers the rare opportunity of obtaining a fresh-to-market, historically significant wristwatch integral to understanding the evolution of one of the most influential contemporary watchmakers. Estimate: $300,000 – 600,000.

Lot 10: F.P.JOURNE, Tourbillon Souverain Jade Dial

François-Paul Journe introduced the Tourbillon Nouveau (reference “TN”) in 2003 to replace the previous Tourbillon (reference “T”), which had been in production since 1999. The Tourbillon Nouveau can be seen as a wholesale upheaval of the previous tourbillon movement. The brass movement was discontinued and replaced by a movement made entirely of 18 karat pink gold — a first for the watch industry.

François-Paul also incorporated a deadbeat seconds mechanism, further adding to the watch’s technical superiority, as it allows for the seconds hand completely stop as the escapement continues to beat, not moving until one second has elapsed.

This watch comes with an amazing Jade dial, created by the in-house dial makers of F.P. Journe, Les Cadraniers de Genève, with great skill and at great expense. Jade is rarely used in timepieces as at a certain thickness, jade will crack, and it requires extreme care, skill, and artisanship to place in a watch dial.

Extremely rare, it was delivered in 2015 to the present owner, who is offering it for sale for the very first time – fully complete with original certificate, purchase invoices, product literature, extra strap, and presentation box. Estimate: $200,000 – 400,000.

Lot 82: RICHARD MILLE Felipe Massa Black Night Ref. RM011-FM

Since launching his first model in 2001, Richard Mille has pushed the limits of horology making some of the most technical watches of the 21st century. The RM011 was first introduced in 2007 and was the firm’s first chronograph model with annual calendar featuring an oversized digital date display on a skeletonized dial.

Since its initial launch, the reference has developed a cult following and an iconic status as one of the brands most important and sought-after models. Traditionally encased in titanium, the present limited-edition model from 2015 continued the relationship between Mille and racecar driver, Felipe Massa, and is made with a carbon NTPT (North Thin Ply Technology) case – a lightweight material capable of withstanding the extreme forces of Formula 1 racing.

This extremely fascinating Richard Mille flyback wristwatch was produced in a limited number of 100 examples. Estimate: $200,000 – 400,000.

Lot 11: ROGER SMITH, Series 2 Open Dial

With just four platinum examples of Roger Smith’s open-worked Series 2 ever manufactured out of a total of 12 across all metals, the Series 2 offered here presents a unique opportunity to acquire one of the rarest and most exceptional independently-made timepieces of the 21st century.

Directly from the bench of Roger Smith to the original owner, and then to Phillips New York, the present Series 2 cased in a 40mm platinum case was executed with a sublime open-worked dial at the request of the owner.

The movement is where English watchmaking takes center stage as far as the combination of mechanical performance and aesthetic skill. It is none other than Roger Smith’s improved Daniels’ co-axial escapement providing the regulation, as Roger takes on the mantle of British horology and the legacy of his mentor, with a single-wheel co-axial escapement.

The Series 2 Open Dial was discontinued and reintroduced as a separate reference, the Series 5. Estimate: $150,000 – 300,000.

Lot 49: A. LANGE & SÖHNE, Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst

Also featured in the sale is a spectacular A. Lange & Söhne that bears the rarified title of Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerskunst, It is an exceptional example of Teutonic watchmaking mastery hardly ever seen on the secondary market.

The Lange Handswerksunst watches, literally meaning “craftsmanship” in German, typically display a level of adornment and workmanship unseen in their regular production counterparts.

Handwerkskunst pieces are all assembled by one single master watchmaker, and the assembly time is increased compared to normal Lange timepieces. This particular Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerskunst features a deep black, hand-fired enamel dial made in-house by the artisans at A. Lange & Söhne with an exposed tourbillon and spectacular balance cock finished with black polishing.

Released in 2014 to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the Lange 1, the present example is replete with its original accessories and numbered 16 of 20, consigned by the original owner in crisp overall condition. Estimate: $120,000 – 240,000.

Lot 125: AUDEMARS PIGUET, Offshore “End of Days” Prototype, Ref. 25770SN

This historically important Audemars Piguet prototype chronograph wristwatch was worn by Arnold Schwarzenegger in the thriller “End of Days” (1999). Schwarzenegger reportedly told Audemars Piguet “I want the watch to have a black case and yellow numerals and hands”.

The result was the current prototype No. 248, as well as a second timepiece No. 249, both of which are noted in the AP archives as “Destination Schwarzenegger 25 September 1998”. The Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore are iconic timepieces recognized for their modern design and their enduring legacy in the horological world, recently celebrated by Phillips’ Royal Oak 50th Sale in Geneva. Estimate: $25,000 – 50,000.

Lot 107: PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 130 from Ride the Wave Chapter II

The Patek Philippe, Ref. 130 is a timepiece that can certainly be considered one of the finest representatives of this classic and important reference known.

With its stunning two-tone silvered dial with all of its raised, hard enamel perfectly intact, it first appeared at auction in 2005 when it was consigned by the original owner’s family as a graduation gift. Purchased by the consignor at that time, it has been kept as a treasured watch in the Ride the Wave collection and remains in outstanding overall condition complete with its original Certificate of Origin and presentation box.

Crisp lugs and bezel edges, perfectly preserved satin finishing on all surfaces, and a beautifully aged original dial all indicate the watch was hardly ever worn throughout its lifetime. So remarkable is this example, it is prominently featured in John Goldberger’s book, “Stainless Steel Patek Philippe Watches”. Estimate: $100,000 – 200,000

Lot 109: ROLEX, “Datocompax” “Killy” Ref. 5036 from Ride the Wave Chapter II

Produced in very small numbers in steel, yellow, and pink gold between 1948 and 1951, reference 5036 is one of the rare triple calendar chronograph wristwatches, dubbed “Datocompax” manufactured by Rolex beginning in the late 1940s, and now known as the “Killy”.

The reference 5036 is the rarest and most sought-after by collectors – and in 18 karat pink gold, it’s the rarest of all metals. Interestingly, it bears an applied Roman numeral twelve, which is not present in the later references.

Preserved in the “Ride the Wave” collection since its acquisition at auction in 2013, this reference 5036 is further testament to the collector’s attention to quality and excellence. The lovely two-tone “no-lume” dial has aged to a contrasting warm ivory color, and the case still bears the oft-lost case numbers engraved on the edge of the caseback.

Furnished with a period-correct Rolex strap and buckle, it is one of the rarest and highest quality “Datocompax” “Killy” examples ever made available to the public. Estimate: $120,000 – 240,000

Auction details

Name: The New York Watch Auction: SIX
Preview: 4-10 June 2022
Auction: 11-12 June 2022
Location: 432 Park Avenue, New York
Discover all lots at:  https://www.phillips.com/auctions/auction/NY080222

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo Realises US$33.6 Million

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo achieves HK$264 million/ US$33.6 million during The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV.

Held over two days on 27 and 28 May at the JW Marriott Hotel, the 100% sold sale far exceeded its pre-sale estimate of HK$105,256,000 to HK$192,004,000, marking the highest ever total for a various owner watches sale in Asia and the highest ever total for the category at Phillips Asia.

Patek Philippe ref. 3974
Patek Philippe ref. 3974

Patek Philippe once again demonstrated its supremacy with an impressive selection of collectible models, led by a possibly unique Ref. 3974 in a yellow gold case made by the legendary casemaker Jaen-Pierre Hagmann and features the black lacquer dial embellished with the Calatrava Cross logo. This lot was for HK$19.6 million/ US$2.5 million, more than three times its pre-sale high estimate and achieved the new world record for the reference.

Patek Philippe ref. 5723112R-001
Patek Philippe ref. 5723112R-001

Following the world record set for Nautilus when the very first Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711 with Tiffany Blue® dial sold at Phillips New York last December, the Nautilus Ref. 5723 with the prestigious double stamp by Tiffany & Co. and ruby-set bezel and indexes sold for HK$11.4 million/ US$1.45 million, setting the second highest price ever paid for any Nautilus and the world record for a Nautilus in gold.

F.P.Journe Tourbillon Souverain China 2010
F.P.Journe Tourbillon Souverain China 2010

Important creations by independent watchmakers performed extremely well, with numerous timepieces flying well above their high estimates. The F.P.Journe Tourbillon Souverain “China 2010” limited edition, one out of the five examples created to commemorate the opening of F.P. Journe Boutique in Beijing in 2010, sold for HK$8.7 million/ US$1.1 million, setting a world auction record for F.P.Journe Tourbillon featuring a 40mm diameter case.

Other notable results include a unique stainless steel prototype with an innovative movement almost entirely made out of titanium created by Lang & Heyne, made in collaboration with Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo and The Lavish Attic, ranking as the highest auction price ever achieved for a wristwatch by Lang & Heyne.

Voutilainen Vingt-8 Hisui
Voutilainen Vingt-8 Hisui

A unique Vingt-8 Hisui watch by Kari Voutilainen was sold for over HK$4.4 million/ US$561,834, the highest price achieved for a Voutilainen timepiece without Complications.

Top Ten Lots of the Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV

Lot 886: Patek Philippe Ref. 3974, yellow gold minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, leap year indication, glossy black lacquered dial, applied Breguet numerals, Calatrava cross logo. Circa 1990

  • Estimate: HK $3,200,000 – 6,500,000/ US$410,000 – 833,000
  • Price Achieved: HK$19,610,000/ US$2,498,314 (world record for the reference)

Lot 956: Patek Philippe Ref. 5723/112R-001, Pink gold wristwatch with baguette-cut ruby-set bezel and indexes, chocolate brown dial, retailed by Tiffany & Co.

  • Estimate: HK $2,350,000 – 3,900,000/ US$301,000 – 500,000
  • Price Achieved: HK$11,442,500/ US$1,457,775 (world record for a Nautilus in gold)

Lot 963C: F.P. Journe, Tourbillon Souverain “China 2010”, platinum wristwatch with tourbillon regulator, one of a limited edition of 5 pieces made to commemorate the opening of F.P. Journe Boutique in Beijing.

  • Estimate: HK $3,900,000 – 7,800,000/ US$500,000 – 1,000,000
  • Price Achieved: HK$8,720,000/ US$1,110,928 (world record for F.P.Journe Tourbillon featuring a 40mm diameter case)

Lot 1009: Voutilainen, a unique and superbly decorated platinum wristwatch with tear drop lugs, Japanese lacquering, cabochon emerald. Circa 2017

  • Estimate: HK$780,000 – 1,560,000/ US$100,000-200,000
  • Price Achieved: HK$4,410,000/ US$561,834 (world record for a Voutilainen timepiece without complications)

Lot 884: Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1P-001, platinum wristwatch with diamond-set indexes, limited edition of 700 pieces, made for the 40th Anniversary of the Nautilus. Circa 2017

  • Estimate: HK$1,500,000 – 3,000,000/ US$192,000 – 385,000
  • Price Achieved: HK$4,032,000/ US$513,677

Lot 937: Rolex Ref. 16528, yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with grand feu enamel “Ying Yang” concept dial, black “Daytona” signature. Circa 1989

  • Estimate: HK$1,560,000 – 3,120,000/ US$200,000 – 400,000
  • Price Achieved: HK$3,654,000/ US$465,520

Lot 856: F.P.Journe, platinum tourbillon wristwatch with remontoir d’egalité, brass movement. Circa 2002

  • Estimate: HK$1,150,000 – 1,950,000/ US$147,000-250,000
  • Price Achieved: HK$3,654,000/ US$465,520

Lot 909: Rolex, Ref. 6241stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial. Circa 1968

  • Estimate: HK$1,200,000 – 2,000,000/ US$154,000-256,000
  • Price Achieved: HK$3,276,000/ US$417,362

Lot 944: A. Lange & Söhne, Ref. 730.048F pink gold tourbillon wristwatch, numbered 25 of a limited edition of 30 pieces. Circa 2016

  • Estimate: HK$900,000 – 1,600,000/ US$115,000-205,000
  • Price Achieved: HK$3,276,000/ US$417,362

Lot 929: Richard Mille “RM67-02 Alexis Pinturault” Ref. RM67-02 CA-FQ, Quartz TPT and titanium wristwatch

  • Estimate: HK $2,000,000 – 4,000,000/ US$256,000 – 513,000
  • Price Achieved: HK$3,276,000/ US$417,362

[View all lots]

Christie’s New York Presents Important Watches of Exceptional Provenance, Featuring “The Kairos Collection” Part III – Live Evening Sale On 8th and 9th June 2022

After the stunning performance of the 30 watches from the Kairos Collection Part I already sold in Geneva and with Part II to come in Hong Kong on 29 May, Christie’s New York prepares for a milestone in watch sale history, including the grand finale of The Kairos Collection in New York presenting 68 extraordinary watches.

Important Watches of Exceptional Provenance, presented across two evening sessions on June 8 and 9, will be offering a total of 137 lots, among which are some of the finest horological masterpieces to appear at auction. Estimated in excess of US$14 million, this sale marks a historic high for Christie’s New York.

The first evening, on 8 June, will present Lots 1-68 of The Kairos Collection Part III – the finest collection of Patek Philippe contemporary timepieces to be offered.

Following Part I in Geneva and Part II in Hong Kong, the grand finale in New York offers marvels of Grandes Complications such as the Ref. 5531R-012, an exceptional 18k rose gold minute repeating world time wristwatch with miniature cloisonné enamel dial, the Ref. 5950/1A-010 (one of just 10 ever made), steel cushion-shaped split seconds single button chronograph wristwatch with blue dial and bracelet, and the Ref. 5740/1G-001, a very rare and quite striking perpetual calendar wristwatch with leap year indicator, moon phases and bracelet, and the first example ever to be offered publicly with a dual signature by Tiffany & Co.

The second evening, on 9 June, will present Lots 69-137, with a focus on vintage and modern icons with exceptional provenance.

Among the watches consigned by their original owner or original family, and sourced exclusively in the Americas, are: extraordinarily rare and important Patek Philippe 18k white gold 3448G “Red Dot”; a newly discovered Rolex steel Daytona Ref. 6263, MK 1 “Paul Newman Oyster Sotto”; as well as the early and eminently desirable F. P. Journe platinum Chronomètre à Résonance with brass movement.

Other highlights include historically significant examples such as the The Great Escape 3525 Rolex, the personal watch of RAF Lt. Gerald Imeson wore as a POW and that was instrumental in planning and executing “The Great Escape” on March 24th, 1944.

From 3 to 8 June, these masterpieces will be on display at Christie’s New York, 20 Rockefeller Center. The exhibition, open to the public, tells the stories behind these great legends of watchmaking history.

Highlights

Lot 58 – From The Kairos Collection Part III, the Patek Philippe Ref. 5531R-012, with miniature cloisonné enamel dial depicting the Lavaux vineyards on the shores of Lake Geneva.

This 18k rose gold Grande Complication watch presented at Baselworld 2018 merges two iconic horological mechanisms: Minute Repeater and World Time.

As the first minute repeater that always strikes local time, the Reference 5531 World Time Minute Repeater innovates by uniting two of Patek Philippe’s most emblematic complications.

Patek Philippe Ref 5531R-012 Lake Geneva

The rose gold case is adorned with a hand-guilloché hobnail pattern and a dial centre in cloisonné enamel depicting the Lavaux vineyards on the shores of Lake Geneva, revealing the quintessence of Métiers d’Art tradition and craftsmanship.

Estimate: US$1,000,000-2,000,000.

Lot 111 – Patek Philippe 18k white gold 3448G “Red Dot”.

This 1981 reference in 18K white gold is one of only two known of the 3448 with the leap year indicator. An automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch, unique not only because it is the only one of its linage to have a leap year indicator materialized by a small red dot at 3:30, but also by its combination of features and complications : 37.5 mm calibre Cal. 27-460 Q automatic, Geneva hallmark, moon phases, day and date display, perpetual calendar with leap year indicator, 37 jewels, Gyromax balance, 18K gold wheel, matte silver dial, applied gold batons for squared figures, auxiliary edges indicating the date and moon phases.

Patek Philippe Ref 3448G Red Dot

Sold in 1981 to a collector, this Ref. 3448 remained the property of the original purchaser’s family and is an aficionado’s dream come true.

Estimate: US$800,000-1,600,000.

Lot 94 – An extremely rare Ref. 6263 stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black “Paul Newman Mark 1 Oyster Sotto Daytona” dial

Newly discovered and coming fresh to the market being sourced from the original family, the “Oyster Sotto” or “Oyster Below” dial is also commonly known as the “RCO” as it features the words “Rolex”, “Cosmograph”, and then “Oyster” aligned vertically on the dial.

The Paul Newman Oyster Sotto Daytona is one of the true ‘holy grail’ pieces. Amongst the extremely small number of such watches produced, those with a Mark 1 dial are undeniably the rarest of the rare, near-unattainable trophies of the Rolex world.

Rolex Ref 6263 Oyster Sotto Paul Newman

Less than 20 examples in total with the Oyster “Sotto” designation (below the word “Cosmograph” instead of above it) are known. The Oyster “Sotto” dials were only fitted to a very small number of the first reference 6263 water-resistant Oyster Cosmographs.

The Paul Newman dial itself was discontinued soon after the reference 6263 was introduced: only low serial number watches were fitted with this style of dial, presumably at the request of clients or certain retailers.

Furthermore, some of these very special pieces have dials with a distinctly different font type that can be classed as a “Mark 1” dial, only appearing on those watches with the very lowest serial numbers. Of all the Paul Newman Oyster Sotto watches publicly known, only a few examples including the present watch sport the Mark 1 dial. From circa 1969.

Estimate: US$600,000-1,000,000.

Lot 120 – The Great Escape 3525 Rolex

A historically important Rolex watch worn by RAF Flight Lieutenant Gerald Imeson as a prisoner of war in Stalag Luft III, the present watch was instrumental in the planning and execution of “The Great Escape,” made on March 24, 1944.

During captivity, airmen could take advantage of an offer by Hans Wilsdorf, the owner of Rolex, allowing British officers to purchase watches on credit which could be paid when the war was won.

Rolex The Great Escape Ref 3525

An estimated 3,000+ British officers, including F/Lt. Imeson, sent postcards to Wilsdorf explaining their circumstances and whereabouts, indicating which Rolex they would like. On August 4, 1943, F/Lt. Imeson’s Rolex 3525 was delivered to Stalag Luft III.

The watch on offer today is accompanied by a number of images of F/Lt. Imeson, as well as some images of extracts from his diary during his time as a “POW” at Stalug Luft III, including references to the arrival of his 3525 at camp as well as an entry on 24-25/3 indicating the “Big Event”, aka “the Great Escape”.

Estimate: US$200,000-400,000

More Highlights………

The Kairos Collection Part III: On 8th June

Curated by a private collector with a discerning eye for excellence and the ability to acquire the rarest watches, The Kairos Collection is the finest grouping of Patek Philippe contemporary timepieces ever to appear at auction. It is the fruit of years of dedicated focus and a passion for the most prestigious of provenances, with every single timepiece in pristine condition.

On 8 June, Christie’s New York Important Watches of Exceptional Provenance will be featuring 68 watches from The Kairos Collection Part III, among which the following fabled references:

Lot 64 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5950/1A-010

From a limited series of just 10 examples, this steel cushion-shaped split seconds single button chronograph wristwatch features a blue dial and bracelet.

Launched in 2010, reference 5950 immediately soared to the top of the wish lists of collectors everywhere. Powered by the calibre CHR 27-575 PS, which was first introduced in 2005 with the officer-style split seconds chronograph reference 5959, not only is this movement the first example of chronographic calibre completely realised in-house by Patek Philippe, it is also the thinnest manually wound column-wheel split seconds single button chronograph movement ever designed by any manufacturer.

Patek Philippe Ref 59501A-010

This movement, which can be considered a compendium of the best and most innovative horological technology available at the moment of its inception, is interestingly housed in an art deco-style case inspired by the very first split seconds chronograph wristwatches of the 1920s.

The cushion-shaped case, the typical dial layout with outer railway fifth of a second divisions and the two horizontal subsidiary dials, the Breguet numerals, the engraved motif at the corners of the dial (reprised on the movement as well, an example of Patek Philippe’s incredible attention to detail), every little detail of the timepiece is devised with the intention of sending the wearer on a voyage back to the 1920s and 30s.

Estimate: US$300,000-500,000.

Lot 63 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5740/1G-001 Nautilus

The present Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5740/1G is the first example to come to market with a dual signature by Tiffany & Co.

The alliance between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. began in 1851 under the guidance of the companies’ owners, Charles Louis Tiffany and Antoine Norbert de Patek. In 1854, Tiffany & Co. began introducing Patek Philippe watches to the American market, including some of the rarest models. The relationship flourished, Tiffany being the only name Patek Philippe allowed on the dials of its watches for exceptional occasions.

Patek Philippe Ref 57401G-001 Tiffany & Co.

The present timepiece is a prime example of the longstanding heritage between Patek Philippe and Tiffany – the present ref. 5740/1G is a modern culmination of design and heritage. Between the Gerald Genta case design, the Tiffany Signature, and Patek Philippe’s ultra thin calibre 240Q, the Ref. 5740/1G is representative of the horological progress made by each respective house and creator.

The Patek Philippe Reference 5740/1G is the first of the Nautilus family to be included in the Grande Complication family of Patek Philippe. The present timepiece presents a marriage between the iconic case designed by Mr. Genta, and the haute horological craftsmanship that has become synonymous with Patek Philippe watchmaking.

Estimate: US$200,000-400,000

Lot 28 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1A-014 Nautilus with “Green Dial”, in steel

The Nautilus 5711/1A-014 was unveiled at Watches & Wonders in April 2021 with a dial in a never-before-seen shade of olive green that is new to the Nautilus collection. The model was released as a replacement for the blue-dial reference 5711⁄1A-010 made to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus in 2006 and discontinued earlier this year.

An homage to the original “Jumbo” reference 3700/1A, the 5711/1A draws striking similarities in design to the original models while also offering a modern update with a new case size which is 1mm larger than its predecessor, and made in three-parts rather than the two-part cases of the original Nautilus.

Patek Philippe Ref. 57111A-014 Nautilus Green Dial

The introduction of the new sunburst olive-green dial for the new Nautilus was an unexpected yet ingenious move by Patek Philippe and it is thought that the model will only be produced for one year. Naturally, demand will continue to greatly exceed supply for the remaining production time.

The present watch, offered in immaculate condition, affords those discriminating collectors who insist upon only the most exclusive timepieces the thrilling prospect of obtaining, without delay, an unobtainable Patek Philippe steel Nautilus that is destined to become ever more desirable.

Estimate: US$200,000-400,000

Lot 61 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5372P-010

A very attractive platinum split seconds chronograph perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phase. Introduced in 2017, the Patek Philippe Ref. 5372P-010 is a fine take on the modern split seconds chronograph. The Ref. 5372P-010 is a mono-pusher split seconds chronograph. An incredibly complicated layout to start with, properly calibrating the chronograph to a single pusher system in an engineering prowess.

Patek Philippe Ref 5372P-010

The Ref. 5372P-010, is featured in two different dials, blue and rose gold. Although publications have referred to the dial as “Salmon”, Patek Philippe lists the dial colour as “Rose Gold”.

Patek Philippe timepieces that feature the ever so pleasing “Salmon” dials are among the most desirable and collectible the firm has ever created in both its modern and vintage eras. The present lot is the chance to own a “Salmon”-hued grande complication made only until early 2022.

Estimate: US$200,000-400,000

Lot 22 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5968G-010 Aquanaut

A fine 18k white gold Fly-Back chronograph wristwatch with date, retailed & signed by Tiffany & Co. The Aquanaut followed in the wake of the Nautilus’s 30th anniversary in 1996 which launched the celebrated and now-discontinued Ref. 5711 and the Ref. 5712.

Patek Philippe Ref 5968G-010 Tiffany & Co

The first Aquanaut reference 5060, launched in 1997, borrowed many of its design cues from big brother Nautilus – most notably the rounded octagonal bezel.

Estimate: US$150,000-250,000.

More highlights from The Kairos Collection Part III…

  • Patek Philippe Ref. 5275P-001 – 175th Anniversary Edition, Lot 57, Platinum Hour Strike Chiming Wristwatch with Digital Jump Hour Jumping Minutes and Seconds, Created In a Limited Edition of 175 Examples, 40mm x 47mm Case In Platinum, Silver Guilloche Dial, Caliber 32-650 HGS PS Manual-Winding Movement. Estimate: USD 300,000 – USD 600,000.
  • Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1 P-001, Lot 39, Nautilus 40th Anniversary Limited Series Platinum Wristwatch with Date & Diamond Hour Markers, 40mm case and Blue dial. Estimate: USD 350,000 – USD 550,000.
  • Patek Philippe Ref. 5004R-018, Lot 65, 18k Rose Gold Perpetual Calendar Split Second Chronograph Wristwatch with 37mm Case, Manual-winding Movement and Black Dial. Estimate: USD 200,000 – USD 400,000.
  • Patek Philippe Ref. 5004P-039, Lot 66, Split Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch with Moon Phases,  37mm Platinum Case, Manual-winding Movement and Black Dial. Estimate: USD 180,000 – USD 280,000.
  • Patek Philippe Ref. 5650G-001, Lot 4, Aquanaut Advanced Research Dual Timezone Watch with Day Night Indicator and Date, 18K White Gold, 40mm Case, Automatic Movement and Semi-skeleton Blue Dial. Estimate: USD 150,000 – USD 250,000.

Treasures of Exceptional Provenance: On 9th June

Lots 69-137 of Important Watches of Exceptional Provenance will focus on vintage and modern icons, including the extraordinarily rare and important watches described below. Other highlights include historically significant military examples such as The Great Escape 3525 Rolex highlighted earlier.

Rolex Daytonas with Paul Newman dial

Alongside Ref. 6263 “Paul Newman Mark 1 Oyster Sotto Daytona”, Christie’s New York will also be offering three other fabled and fabulous Rolex Daytonas with a Paul Newman dial.

Lot 101 - Rolex Ref. 6241, Daytona, with exotic “Paul Newman” dial. A rare steel chronograph wristwatch on bracelet. Estimate: US$200,000-400,000
Lot 101 – Rolex Ref. 6241, Daytona, with exotic “Paul Newman” dial. A rare steel chronograph wristwatch on bracelet. Estimate: US$200,000-400,000
Lot 116 - Rolex Ref. 6262, Daytona, with exotic “Paul Newman” dial. A very fine and rare steel chronograph wristwatch on bracelet. Estimate: US$150,000-250,000
Lot 116 – Rolex Ref. 6262, Daytona, with exotic “Paul Newman” dial. A very fine and rare steel chronograph wristwatch on bracelet. Estimate: US$150,000-250,000
Lot 81 - Rolex Ref. 6262 “Paul Newman” dial, Daytona. A very rare steel chronograph wristwatch on bracelet. Estimate: US$150,000-250,000.
Lot 81 – Rolex Ref. 6262 “Paul Newman” dial, Daytona. A very rare steel chronograph wristwatch on bracelet. Estimate: US$150,000-250,000.

A true icon in the world of watch collecting, the Rolex Daytona has, from its origination, undergone a multitude of iterations, from dials to cases to movements – perfectly illustrating Rolex’s incessant drive to innovate and still remain true to its heritage. The rarest and most sought-after watches continue to be of the Paul Newman era, a version of the Daytona made famous by the eponymous actor.

Rolex x Daytona x Tiffany & Co.

Rolex Daytona Ref 6263 Daytona Retailed and Signed by Tiffany & Co
Lot 95 – Rolex Daytona Ref. 6263. A very fine and rare 14k yellow gold chronograph wristwatch, retailed and signed by Tiffany & Co., consigned by the family of the original owner. Estimate: US$150,000-250,000.

F.P. Journe  Watches

Lot 96 – F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance. A very important 38mm platinum dual time wristwatch with power reserve and dual escapement brass movement.

The present watch is an important early version with rhodium-plated brass movement. Early F. P. Journe timepieces were fitted with brass movements, and these are extremely collectible today.

Journe timepieces maybe synonymous with 18k gold movements now, however the watchmaker only started crafting his movements in gold from 2004. The early production models, between 2001 and 2004, featured brass movements – an estimated number of around 2,000. As a result, Journe wristwatches with brass movements are rare and signify an epoch in the celebrated watchmaker’s sterling career.

F.P. Journe Chronometre A Resonance watch with Brass Movement

The Chronomètre à Résonance model was launched in 2000. It is one of the exceedingly rare and fascinating wristwatches in the world based on resonance, a natural physical phenomenon. The two closely positioned balance wheels synchronize each other by means of the resonance effect and naturally beat alternately. The negative effects of wrist and body movements are hence considerably reduced.

The effects of resonance upon a timekeeper were first noticed by Antide Janvier around 1780, who created clocks with two pendulums beating in resonance, and the idea was taken further by Abraham Louis Breguet who successfully completed pocket watches with twin resonant balances.

The genius of F.P. Journe reinvented the mechanism for the modern world and produced the Chronomètre a Résonance” wristwatch, and the present watch is one of that remarkable series. The two dials can of course be used to show two different time zones, however, many watch collectors have both dials displaying the same time to remain true to the original theory of resonance.

To facilitate precise setting of both movements, the seconds can be zeroed and started simultaneously by pulling out the crown at 4 o’clock on the band.

Estimate: US$300,000-500,000.

Lot 97 – F.P. Journe, Octa Calendrier, a very fine 38mm platinum annual calendar wristwatch, with automatic brass movement and retrograde date.

This lot is an important early version with rhodium-plated brass movement. Early F. P. Journe timepieces were fitted with brass movements.

F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier watch with Automatic Brass Movement

The Octa Calendrier is the third complication to be integrated in the Octa automatic calibre. The integration of an annual retrograde calendar while maintaining the dimensions of the movement was another significant horological achievement for the brand.

The instantaneously advancing day and month display is self-adjusting for months with 28, 30 and 31 days. The Octa annual calendar requires manual adjustment at the end of February only during the non-leap years.

Estimate: US$200,000-300,000.

[Click here to browse all 137 lots]

Ollech & Wajs Selects Soprod Newton P092 Movement as the Replacement of ETA 2824-2 Caliber

After a long and rigorous search for a successor to the tried and trusted ETA 2824-2, Swiss watch brand Ollech & Wajs has announced a new partnership with Swiss movement manufacturer Soprod.

Located in the Swiss Jura, just a few minutes away from OW’s historic workshop, Soprod have been developing and manufacturing high-quality mechanical movements since 1966.

In 2020 Soprod unveiled the ‘Newton P092’, a new in-house developed automatic calibre. The movement is characterised by a full-balance bridge supporting the exposed balance at 6:00, which, in conjunction with the double-cone Incabloc® shock absorber provides increased protection for the balance itself. It has 23 jewels and an impressive 44-hour power reserve.

Soprod Newton P092 Movement for Ollech & Wajs

The Soprod Newton P092 movement is independently tested for dependability and durability at the internationally renowned Laboratoire Dubois in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. It undergoes several trials, including an accelerated ageing cycle designed to simulate the effects of a watch worn on the wrist. The procedure involves extreme temperature variations, and 20,000 indirect impact shocks of varying severity. Only movements that pass all the tests are awarded the Chronofiable® certification.

Furthermore, the movement was subjected to OW’s own stringent testing program. Of the nine movements evaluated, from eight different Swiss manufacturers, the Soprod Newton outperformed them all.

Then followed a period of close collaboration between OW and Soprod, to develop a bespoke version of the Newton P092, modified to OW’s own specifications and adjusted in five positions.

Soprod Newton P092 Movement for Ollech & Wajs

Ollech & Wajs opted for a simple, Brutalist finish, in accordance with OW’s rugged aesthetics. ‘O&W 1956’ is engraved into the nickel-plated gear train bridge, over which sits a co-designed, custom rotor in the shape of the OW marque.

The inimitable new movement will carry OW’s own ‘PRECISION’ rating, reserved for movements of only the highest quality.

The first Soprod-powered OW watches will be available later this year.

Movement specifications

Caliber: Soprod Newton P092
Type: Automatic
Dimensions: 25.60 mm diameter; 4.60 mm height
Date-only calendar, with semi-instantaneous changes and quick adjustment using the crown, stop-seconds, and 4Hz 28,800 vibrations per hour
23 jewels; 44-hour power reserve
Average accuracy: +/-7 seconds per day, adjusted in five positions (equivalent of ETA Elabore)

Christie’s Hong Kong Watches Spring Auctions 24 May 2022 – Results

On 24 May, Christie’s Watches held two live auctions, including the white-glove sale of “The Champion Collection Part III: The Artistry of Complications”, and “Important Watches and The Rise of The Independent Watchmakers, Featuring The Kairos Collection Part II”, realising a historic sale total of HK$299,004,780/ US$38,269,921 and 139% hammer above low estimate. The sales saw strong global participation from 20 countries across 4 continents.

21 world auction records for references across both sales including Patek Philippe References: 5002R, 605HU, 5976 ⁄ 1G, 5016P-018, 5275P, and exceptionally rare models of F.P. Journe, A. Lange & Söhne, and Cartier. Top lot of each sale set world auction record for the reference.

 Patek Philippe Ref. 5002 (Lot 2273)
Patek Philippe Ref. 5002

The Champion Collection Part III: The Artistry of Complications, Top Achiever: Patek Philippe. A magnificent, extremely rare and highly complicated 18k pink gold double-dial wristwatch with twelve complications including “cathedral” minute repeating, tourbillon, perpetual calendar with retrograde date, moon age and angular motion, sidereal time and sky chart sky moon tourbillon model, Ref. 5002R, circa 2010. Lot 2273. Price realised: HK$24,450,000/ US$3,129,380. World auction record for the reference.

Patek Philippe Ref. 605HU
Patek Philippe Ref. 605HU

Important Watches and The Rise of The Independent Watchmakers, Featuring The Kairos Collection Part II, Top Achiever: Patek Philippe. A magnificent and extremely rare 18k gold world time pocket watch with world map cloisonné enamel dial, Ref. 605HU, manufactured in 1948. Lot 2443, Price realised: HK$16,050,000/ US$2,054,256. World auction record for the reference.

Sale Highlights of “The Champion Collection Part III: The Artistry of Complications”:

All lots in this sale found buyers, with almost 1/3 of lots sold above high estimates. 12 world auction records for the references were set in the sale, including Patek Philippe Ref. 5002R, 5016P-018, 5275P, 5074J, 5271 ⁄ 11P-001, 5971P, 5020J-016, 5071G, 5059G-018, 5976 ⁄ 1G, 5167 ⁄ 300G-010 and 5167A-010.

Patek Philippe horological treasures sparked fierce competition, with a wide variety of lots sold multiple times above estimates, including:

Patek Philippe horological treasures

Patek Philippe horological treasures

Limited edition and rare timepieces by other celebrated brands including Greubel Forsey, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet also achieved outstanding prices:

Limited edition and rare timepieces

Sale Highlights of “Important Watches and The Rise of The Independent Watchmakers, Featuring The Kairos Collection Part II”:

42% of lots sold above high estimates, with 9 world auction records for the references established, including Patek Philippe Ref. 605HU, 1415; F.P. Journe NO. 01⁄10-T10, Sonnerie Souveraine Model; A. Lange & Söhne Ref. 405.836, 310.836, 320.836; Cartier – a platinum and diamond-set limited edition Crash Model, and a rare 18K white gold and diamond-set limited edition Crash Model made for the re-opening of the Paris boutique.

In addition to the top lot of this sale, Lot 2443 – Patek Philippe 605 Heures Universelles, other top-performing extraordinary timepieces include:

Patek Philippe 605 Heures Universelles

Demand for F.P. Journe wristwatches continue to soar, highlighted by:

F.P. Journe wristwatches

All Patek Philippe contemporary masterpieces from The Kairos Collection Part II found buyers, including the following highlights:

The Kairos Collection Part II

 

The OAK Collection International Exhibition – Displaying One of the World’s Greatest Privately-Owned Collections of Wrist and Pocket Watches

The OAK (One of A Kind) is an exhibition of a massive collection of finest, rarest and most valuable timepieces, collected by a passionate horology enthusiast in the past four decades.

Currently exhibiting at the Design Museum in London (from 19th to 25th May 2022), this is one of the world’s greatest privately-owned collections of wrist and pocket watches.

The OAK Collection exhibition – for ‘One of A Kind’ – comprises hundreds of ‘best of the best’ vintage and contemporary museum quality watches, among which are unrepeatable special orders, ultra-rare limited editions, the most valuable examples of their type and the largest number of Patek Philippe pieces once owned by the celebrated collector Henry Graves Jnr. to now be held in private hands.

Every watch is in truly perfect condition, with the majority of examples being new or virtually unworn. All are serviced on a regular basis by a highly experienced watch maker whose working life is dedicated to maintaining the collection which, having been patiently gathered and never previously revealed, could fairly be described as one of the watch world’s ‘best kept secrets’.

The OAK Collection exhibition, which has been curated by a hand-picked team of watch world elites, was first unveiled in London on May 19 before embarking on a global tour incorporating four international stops at spectacular exhibition venues in the USA, Middle East and Asia.

The individual who has amassed the remarkable OAK Collection (which comprises more than 500 pieces in total) declines to be named. Although the collector has long wanted to show his watches to other enthusiasts, it was his son who originally suggested doing so by means of a global exhibition having spent a lifetime observing his father’s undying passion for horology.

The Exhibition Format

Visitors to the OAK Collection exhibition will be taking part in a ‘world first’ event, because never before has a privately-owned collection of such exceptional watches, all in impeccable condition, been made available to the public.

It is also unlikely that such a comprehensive and carefully curated collection encompassing the best of the best of both vintage and modern watches will ever be compiled within the lifetime of current generations.

As a result, the exhibition will undoubtedly set a new benchmark for quality, rarity and scholarship in the field of watch collecting.

The OAK Collection will be displayed within a series of bespoke-designed, interconnected rooms that will be recreated at each location and will take the viewer on a tranquil horological journey comprising 11 sections, each of which could be described as a ‘chapter’ of time that encapsulates the collector’s appreciation of specific genres of watch, from simple, three-hand models to high complication pieces.

Patek Philippe. Ref. 605 HU
Patek Philippe. Ref. 605 HU

The maker most strongly represented in the exhibition is Patek Philippe, with many examples owned by the collector having been made specifically for him in close, creative collaborations with the manufacture – a process available only to a small number of the firm’s most respected clients.

Vintage Patek Philippe models, meanwhile, include references once owned by noted individuals including the musician Eric Clapton and the actor Jean-Paul Belmondo, as well as pieces that were developed for particular uses or which display the maker’s mastery of rare hand crafts such as enamelling and engraving.

Also remarkable is the OAK Collection’s extraordinary holding of Patek Philippe watches that once belonged to the legendary patron Henry Graves Jnr, the late banker and railroad tycoon who, between 1922 and 1951, commissioned no fewer than 39 watches from the revered maker.

The Graves - Patek Philippe ”Minute Repeating” Watch
The Graves – Patek Philippe ”Minute Repeating” Watch

Of those, only around 30 are believed to have survived, five of which form part of the OAK Collection. The only larger selection of Graves watches belonging to a single entity is that on show at the Patek Philippe museum, which holds 13.

The Patek Philippe models in the OAK Collection account for six of the exhibition’s 11 sections, covering Calatrava, Nautilus, World Time and perpetual calendar/ complication models in addition to the aforementioned Graves and rare handcraft pieces.

Patek Philippe Single Button Chronograph Ref. 5951P
Patek Philippe Single Button Chronograph Ref. 5951P

But while the collector focuses strongly on the work of Patek Philippe, he does not do so exclusively. As a Rolex connoisseur, he has allocated three significant sections of the exhibition to its pieces, and has also dedicated an area to watches made by the ‘new age’ independents, notably Francois-Paul Journe and Kari Voutilainen.

Rolex Ref. 6036 « Jean-Claude Killy »
Rolex Ref. 6036 « Jean-Claude Killy »

The collector’s commitment to modern makers is further demonstrated in the fact that, during the eight editions of the biennial Only Watch charity auction, he has been the most prolific buyer, accruing no fewer than 10 unique pieces with dial names as diverse as Kari Voutilainen, H.Moser, and Chanel.

The Sections

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Section

Although the Calatrava family represents the artistry of Patek Philippe in its simplest form, it has long held a special fascination for the collector. As a result, he has accumulated the largest number of examples in private hands, several of which are unique vintage survivors or modern pieces made specifically for him.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Réf. 2526
Patek Philippe Calatrava Réf. 2526

Named after the image used on the marching banners of the 12th century Calatrava knights, the Calatrava Cross has also been Patek Philippe’s registered trademark since 1887 – a fact that highlights the importance of its namesake model.

Among the 20 Calatravas on display, there are 12 vintage pieces, four modern ones and three that are one-offs.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 570J
Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 570J, Made in 1941, Retailed by E. Gübelin.

Particular stars include: the unique Reference 530A in steel with a black dial; the only known Reference 570J, an unusually large, gold-cased Calatrava with a black dial and indirect centre seconds; and the Reference 570R in pink gold with matching, two-tone rose dial and indirect centre seconds.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 570R
Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 570R, Made in 1943, this one-of-a-kind timepiece is known as a “Heures Penchées Breguet”, referring to its slanted numerals.

Add to that the unique Reference 1504 in steel with black dial and pink gold indexes, and you have what the collector calls ‘The ‘Fantastic Four’ – all truly ‘One-of-A-Kind’ and all with Breguet numerals.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 1504
Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 1504

The Patek Philippe Chronograph Section

The chronograph complication has held a particular fascination for the collector for decades. As a result, the OAK Collection exhibition will feature no fewer than 29 examples, all but six of which are rarest-of-the-rare vintage pieces.

Patek Philippe Chronograph Reference 130J
Patek Philippe Chronograph Reference 130J

Among these is a unique Reference 130J featuring a yellow gold case, a single-pusher mechanism and a remarkable, two-tone mirror dial in silver marked with a tachymeter scale.

Patek Philippe Chronograph Reference 530R
Patek Philippe Chronograph Reference 530R

Also exceptional are the 1956 Reference 530R pink gold chronograph double-signed with the name of its original retailer, Gobbi Milano, and the Reference 1436 in yellow gold which combines a split-seconds movement with a medical ‘pulsometer’ scale.

The Graves-Fullerton Patek Philippe Section

The great Henry Graves Junior’s fascination with Patek Philippe watches was passed-down to his grandson, Reginald H. Fullerton, who amassed an exceptional collection of his own.

One of the many unique elements of the OAK Collection exhibition is that it brings together watches owned by both men – five that belonged to Graves and two owned by Fullerton.

The Graves - Patek Philippe ”Tourbillon Observatory Quality” Pocket Watch
The Graves – Patek Philippe ”Tourbillon Observatory Quality” Pocket Watch

Among the former is the truly astonishing ‘observatory quality’, platinum-cased tourbillon pocket watch that was created by Patek Philippe to take part in the Geneva Astronomical Observatory Timing Contest of 1933 – which it won outright, making it one of the world’s most accurate mechanical watches. It will be displayed with its original case and ‘bulletin d’observatoire’ timekeeping certificate.

The Graves - Patek Philippe ”Two-Train Minute Repeating” pocket watch
The Graves – Patek Philippe ”Two-Train Minute Repeating” Pocket Watch

Other blue-chip Graves watches include a gold minute repeater that was especially made for him and which he gifted to his grandson on the occasion of his marriage, and a gold, hunting-cased minute repeater with enamel dial. Three of the Graves watches are engraved with his family crest and celebrated motto ‘Esse Quam Videre’ – to be, rather than to seem.

The two Fullerton watches, meanwhile, comprise a round, officer-cased wrist watch and a cushion-cased, jump hour model, both of which were produced in limited editions to mark Patek Philippe’s 150th anniversary in 1989.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Section

Designed by the late, great Gerald Genta and launched in 1976, the Patek Philippe Nautilus was one of the first luxury sports watches to be made from steel.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 57261A ”One of a Kind”
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 57261A

In recent years, it has come to be more widely recognised as one of the most important of all late-20th century Patek Philippe designs – but the collector realised the significance of the Nautilus long ago, as a result of which the exhibition will include no fewer than 16 examples.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3700-004 « Gobbi »
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3700-004 « Gobbi »

They include three early, Reference 3700 models in different formats, the only known Nautilus to have been fitted with a ‘special request’ quartz movement and a selection of more recent models featuring chronograph and calendar complications.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Réf. 3700-1
Patek Philippe Nautilus Réf. 3700-1

The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar / Complications Section

Patek Philippe’s perpetual calendar and high complication watches are among the firm’s rarest and most difficult to obtain products – so the fact that such pieces make up one of the largest and most comprehensive sections in the OAK Collection exhibition demonstrates just how special it is.

Patek Philippe Reference 1518R 'pink on pink'
Patek Philippe Reference 1518R ‘pink on pink’

Among six vintage, perpetual calendar chronographs, visitors will see the unique Reference 1518R ‘pink on pink’ with pink gold case and pink dial; another reference 1518 that was one of just six made with large, Arabic numerals and the unique, first series Reference 2499J with ‘champagne’ dial.

Patek Philippe Reference 2499J with 'champagne' dial
Patek Philippe Reference 2499J with ‘champagne’ dial

Modern watches in the section, meanwhile, include a spectacular Reference 3970/2J made as a one-off commission in 2019 with a yellow gold case, matching bracelet and champagne dial. Unworn and in ‘new, old stock’ condition, it is complemented by a similarly remarkable reference 3970ER from 2015 which combines a pink gold case with a rose dial set with diamond indexes.

The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts Section

Patek Philippe’s mastery of the art of horology extends to the unique and exquisite decoration of its watches through the use of engraving, enamelling, guilloche and even marquetry.

The collector’s appreciation of these enhancements, which serve to add to the unique nature of a particular watch, has moved him to acquire many examples featuring rare handcrafts. Nine such watches are included in the exhibition.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5089G « Escalade »
Patek Philippe Ref. 5089G « Escalade »

One is a very rare Reference 5089G watch dating from 2017 which has an enameled guilloche dial carrying individually applied hour markers in the form of tiny flowers made from yellow gold.

Also exceptional is a hunting-cased Calatrava wrist watch made to mark Patek Philippe’s 175th anniversary that features a marquetry dial depicting a traditional sailing barque on Lac Leman.

Other, very special enamelled pieces, meanwhile, include pocket watches, wrist watches and a unique, gilt-brass dome clock decorated with images of hot air balloons in flight.

The Patek Philippe World Time Section

The Patek Phillippe ‘World Time’ wristwatches first developed in collaboration with genius horologist Louis Cottier during the 1930s always appeal to high-end collectors – but they become additionally covetable when they benefit from rare dial variants, such as one of the two vintage ‘Heures Universelles’ models featured in the exhibition.

Patek Philippe World Time Reference 2523J Two Crown
Patek Philippe World Time Reference 2523J Two Crown

The Reference 2523J two-crown World Time is one of just four known examples to feature a dial centre enamelled in polychrome blue – the collector’s favourite colour.

The other vintage piece is a pristine, 1963 example of the exceptionally beautiful Reference 2523, while modern World Time pieces include no fewer than four with dials decorated with polychrome enamel maps.

The New Age Independents & Steel Sports Section

The collector’s wide-ranging appreciation of horological excellence has led him to embrace the world of the contemporary makers who, within the past two decades, have established themselves as modern masters of their craft.

Chief among these are the French watch maker Francois-Paul Journe and the Fin Kari Voutilainen, both of whom have supplied the collector with some of their most exceptional pieces.

FP Journe « Tourbillon Souverain »
FP Journe « Tourbillon Souverain »

The OAK Collection exhibition will give visitors the rare chance to see François-Paul Journe’s famous ‘Ruthenium set’ which comprises a Chronometre a Resonance, an Octa Calendrier, a Tourbillon Souverain, an Octa Chronograph and an Octa Auto.

All date from 2002, a time when the maker’s excellence was only just coming to recognition, and all have movements made from ruthenium-plated brass – making them extremely rare and hugely collectable. Even more remarkably, each watch is in new, old stock condition.

The Voutilainen pieces, meanwhile, comprise five examples, all in equally pristine condition. One is a unique piece acquired by the collector having been donated by Voutilainen to the sixth edition of the Only watch charity auction held in 2015 to raise funds for research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy. Featuring a unique escapement, it was the first of the maker’s GMT models to be cased in steel.

The Rolex GMT-Master Section

Rolex famously made its GMT-Master time zone watch at the request of Pan-American airlines during preparations for the first passenger-carrying, intercontinental jet aircraft flights by Boeing 707.

Before putting the 707 into full service, Pan-Am asked Rolex to develop a wristwatch that would enable its wearer to tell the time at a glance in both the ‘home’ and ‘destination’ zones – the result being the Reference 6542 GMT-Master with a rotatable bezel calibrated into 24 hours and designed to be used in conjunction with a fourth hand – the 24-hour hand.

Rolex GMT Master Ref. 6542 « Pussy Galore »
Rolex GMT Master Ref. 6542 « Pussy Galore »

The model was nicknamed the ‘Pussy Galore’ as a result of being worn by Honor Blackman’s aircraft-flying character in the 1964 James Bond movie ‘Goldfinger’.

The bezel was made from steel with a Plexiglass insert, one half of which was coloured blue to represent night and the other half red to represent day. It was a simple matter to set the 24-hour hand so that it showed the time at destination time on the bezel, leaving the main hour hand on ‘home’ time.

H743_Rolex GMT Master Ref. 17600 « Pepsi Chuck Yaeger »
Rolex GMT Master Ref. 17600 « Pepsi Chuck Yaeger »

The GMT-Master has become one of the most collectable of all Rolex sports watches – and the OAK Collection exhibition will include no fewer than 11 pristine examples ranging from an early version with Bakelite bezel to highly desirable variations such as the so called ‘Chuck Yeager‘. Regardless of age, however, each one is in pristine, virtually unworn condition.

The Rolex Sports Chronograph Section

Sports chronographs by Rolex are among the most popular and sought after high quality watches ever made. The OAK Collection celebrates their ongoing development and horological significance with a display of 13 examples, eight of which are vintage pieces and five of which are modern.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6262 « Fuerza Aerea del Peru »
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6262 « Fuerza Aerea del Peru »

Among the former, particular highlights include an exceptionally rare 1961 Cosmograph issued to the Fuerza Aerea del Peru, Peru’s combined military and naval group, and a 1966 Cosmograph Daytona which not only features a sought-after ‘Paul Newman’ dial but is made additionally collectable by the fact that it was originally owned by NASA astronaut Walter Cunningham who piloted the Apollo 7 lunar module.

Rolex Ref. 6263 « Oyster Cosmograph Big Red »
Rolex Ref. 6263 « Oyster Cosmograph Big Red »

More modern examples range from a yellow gold Cosmograph Daytona powered by the Rolex modified version of the famous Zenith El Primero automatic movement, to what is almost certainly the best existing example of the original platinum-cased Daytona launched in 2013.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 116506
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 116506

Indeed, it is believed to be the first example of the model ever to have been sold and was acquired by the collector after being consigned to auction to raise funds for charity. It remains in pristine, unworn condition.

The Rolex Sports Watch Section

This nine-watch selection represents several of the most coveted Rolex sports models made by the firm since the landmark ‘Explorer’ was launched during the 1950s.

By their very nature, Rolex sports watches are notoriously difficult to find in excellent condition, let alone in the pristine, virtually unused form in which they appear in the OAK Collection.

All key vintage models are represented, from the early Explorer to a 1980s Explorer-II (known as the ‘Steve McQueen’) and from a perfect, 1969 Submariner with ultra-desirable red script and ‘tropical’ bezel to a 1972 version originally supplied to the COMEX underwater engineering firm.

The Oak Collection – Quick Facts

  • The oldest watch: The Henry Graves Jr gold, slim, hunter case, minute repeating dress watch. It was made in 1927. With an unique provenance and in mint condition, the present watch is probably one of the best simple minute repeating Patek Philippe watches known to have survived.
  • The newest watch: The Nautilus 5711/1A-014 – the already celebrated green dial version of the Nautilus that was launched in 2021.
  • The largest watch: The largest watch is the Henry Graves tourbillon pocket watch, measuring 48mm in diameter. The largest wrist watches are those in the Nautilus section.
  • The smallest watch: The smallest watch is the platinum Calatrava Reference 96 which has a diameter of just 30.5mm.
  • The most complicated watch: The most complicated watch in the collection is the modern Reference 5208 – it features a minute repeater, perpetual calendar and chronograph indications.
  • The only watch with a quartz movement: The one watch in the collection with a quartz movement is the vintage Nautilus Reference 3800 – the only quartz-powered example of the reference in existence, made upon special request by a doctor to Patek Philippe.

Exhibition details

Venue: The Design Museum
224-238 Kensington High St, London, W8 6AG
May 19 – 25, 2022

Note: After the London event, the OAK Collection travelling exhibition will move to the Bahrain National Museum, Shaikh Hamad Causeway, Manama, China and the USA in 2022.

The OAK Collection – Important Timepieces

Owned by a passionate high horology enthusiast, the OAK Collection comprises more than 500 timepieces. In this list, we are showing most prominent pieces.

  1. CARTIER, Tank, made 1980. The first timepiece acquired for the OAK collection.

  2. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 530 A, Made in 1941. A museum-quality and one-of-a-kind timepiece.

  3. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 1504 A, made 1941 A one-of-a-kind timepiece.

  4. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 570 J, made 1946 Only one example is known. Retailed by E.Gübelin.

  5. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 570 R, made 1946 One of only five known.

  6. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 570 J, made 1941 A one-of-a-kind timepiece.

  7. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 570 R, made 1943. This one-of-a-kind timepiece is known as a “Heures Penchées Breguet”, referring to its slanted numerals.

  8. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5196 J, made 2018. This specially commissioned piece is one-of-a-kind.

  9. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5196 R, made 2018. This specially commissioned piece is one-of-a-kind.

  10. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 96 P, made 1951, Only a few examples are known.

  11. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 96 R, made 1954. A rare example with double signature, retailed by Gobbi, Milan.

  12. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 570 G, made 1963. Ref. 570 was produced from 1938 to 1972.

  13. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 3445 P, made 1964. One of a very limited series made in platinum.

  14. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5296 G-013, made 2011, A limited edition of 15 pieces marking the retailer Somazzi’s 150th anniversary (1860-2011).

  15. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5296 G, made 2008, A limited edition of 25 pieces, retailed by Pisa Orologeria, Milan.

  16. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5296 R – 011, made 2008, A limited edition of 25 pieces, retailed by Pisa Orologeria, Milan.

  17. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5196- P 010, made 2016. This specially commissioned piece is one-of-a-kind.

  18. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5296 G-001, made 2007. This “Sector Dial” wristwatch is no longer in production.

  19. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 570 R – Anti-Magnetic, made 1972, One of only two known.

  20. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 570 J, made 1954. Retailed by Hausmann & Co., this one-of-a-kind timepiece was formerly owned by Andy Warhol.

  21. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 2526 R, made 1957. This black enamel timepiece is one of only eight known.

  22. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 2526 G, made 1955. A rare edition timepiece.

  23. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 2481 R, made 1955. A rare example of the “King Calatrava” watch.

  24. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 2510 J, made 1953. One of only three known.

  25. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 2511 R, made 1953. A one-of-a-kind timepiece.

  26. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 1518 J, made 1943. This timepiece, with enlarged Arabic numerals, is one of only six known examples.

  27. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 1518 R, made 1948. This “Pink on Pink” timepiece is one-of-a-kind. The only one with “Gay Frères” bracelet.

  28. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 2499 J, made 1952. This first series “Champagne Dial” watch is one-of-a-kind.

  29. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 2499 J, made 1960. In new “old stock” condition, this is one of the best known examples of this second series watch.

  30. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 2499 R, made 1968. This third series “Special Dial” watch is one-of-a-kind.

  31. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 2499/100 J, made 1985. This was the last example of this iconic reference ever produced.

  32. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 3970 G, made 1999. This reference was first produced in 1986, and ceased production in 2004. The first complicated timepiece acquired for the OAK Collection.

  33. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 3970 R, made 2015. This “Monochrome Pink” specially commissioned timepiece is one-of-a-kind.

  34. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 3970 R, made 1993. The design of the Ref. 3970 evolved in 1989, with a new screw-down case back.

  35. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 3970/2J, made 2019. This “Monochrome Champagne” specially commissioned timepiece is one-of-a-kind.

  36. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5020 G, made 1994. This is a limited series “TV Screen” watch.

  37. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5970 R, made 2015. This specially commissioned timepiece is one-of-a-kind.

  38. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5270G – 014, made 2013. Ref. 5270 was launched in 2011.

  39. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5270 G – 016, made 2016. This specially commissioned timepiece is one-of-a-kind.

  40. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5970P – 001, made 2009. Ref. 5970 was launched in 2004 as the successor to the Ref. 3970.

  41. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5970G – 001, made 2011. Patek Philippe ended the production of Ref. 5970 in 2011.

  42. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5320A – 010, made 2021. This specially commissioned timepiece is one-of-a-kind. The only one made in steel.

  43. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5213G – 010 G, made 2013. The limited series Ref. 5213 was produced from 2012 – 2016.

  44. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5270G – 001, made 2011. A first generation version without tachometer scale.

  45. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5004A – 001, made 2012. This steel version was made in a limited edition of 60 pieces.

  46. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5004P – 027, made 1998. The Ref. 5004 was launched in 1994 and ceased production in 2010.

  47. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5204P – 001, made 2013. The Ref. 5204 was launched in 2012.

  48. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5951P – 001, made 2011. The Ref. 5951 was launched in 2010.

  49. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5208P – 001, made 2015. Patek Philippe’s first “Advanced Research Grande Complication” watch.

  50. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 1579 J ,made 1948. The Ref. 1579 was introduced in 1943 and ceased production in about 1964.

  51. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 1579 R, made 1948. Only 65 examples in pink gold are known to have survived.

  52. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 1579 A, made 1950. One of only five made. In new “old stock” condition.

  53. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5213G-010, made 1946. One of only three made from the First Series, this example has a unique dial. “Grand Complications Collection” with minute repeater.

  54. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 1579 R, made 1955. A one-of-a-kind example, retailed by Gobbi, Milan.

  55. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 1579 R, made 1946. This example is referred to as a “Monochrome Pink”.

  56. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 130 J, made 1936. This is the only known example of a “Mono-pusher Sector Dial” timepiece.

  57. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 530 J, made 1945. One of only ten known examples.

  58. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 530 J, made 1949. This is the only known of example.

  59. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 530 R, made 1955. In terms of quality, rarity and provenance, this one-of-a-kind timepiece represents the holy grail for collectors. It was retailed by Gobbi, Milan.

  60. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 130 A, made 1941. This very specific dial configuration is one of only 12 known.

  61. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 130 J, made 1947. The Reference 130 is Patek Philippe’s first serially produced chronograph wristwatch.

  62. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 130 R, made 1940. Retailed by Hausmann & Co., this “Pink Sector Dial” watch is one-of-a-kind.

  63. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 533 R, made 1939. With a black dial and pulsometer scale, this watch is one of only five known examples.

  64. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 1506 R, made 1942. This pink gold example is one of only four known.

  65. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 591 R, made 1942. This is one of only twelve known examples of this reference.

  66. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 1436 J, made 1950. From 1938 to 1971, only 140 pieces of this reference were produced, and even fewer with a black dial.

  67. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 1463 J, made 1947. This reference, introduced in 1940, is now referred to as a “Tasta Tondi” watch.

  68. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 1436 J, made 1960. The present example is one of only three known.

  69. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5950A – 001, made 2011. This “turtle” shape was inspired by 1930s watch design.

  70. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5370P – 001, made 2016. Launched in 2015, this reference was inspired by the famous Ref. 1436.

  71. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5170G – 010, made 2015. The design of this reference was inspired by pieces from the 1940s and 1950s.

  72. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5170P – 011, made 2019. This specially commissioned piece is one-of-a-kind.

  73. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5070J – 001, made 2002. The Ref. 5070, launched in 1998, was the largest chronograph at the time.

  74. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5070 G, made 2005. This upgraded white gold version of the Ref. 5070, was first produced in 2001.

  75. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5070 G – 014, made 2018. This specially commissioned piece is one-of-a-kind.

  76. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5070 P-013, made 2016. This specially commissioned piece is one-of-a-kind.

  77. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5131 J- 001, made 2012. The enamel cloisonné dial shows the Americas, Europe and Africa.

  78. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5131G – 001 / 175, made 2015. This model was made especially for the 175th anniversary of Patek Philippe.

  79. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5131 R- 001, made 2015. The enamel cloisonné dial shows Asia, Oceania and the Americas.

  80. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 2523 J, made 1953. This is one of only three known examples. In new “old stock” condition.

  81. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 605 HU, made 1948. This is one of only four known examples.

  82. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 605 HU, made 1944. The Henry Graves, Jr. coat of arms was engraved subsequently.

  83. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 2523/1 J, made 1963. Only fifteen yellow gold examples of the Ref. 2523/1 were produced. This is one of only five with this dial.

  84. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5131G – 001, made 2012. The enamel cloisonné dial shows Europe, Africa, Asia and Oceania.

  85. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5575G – 001, made 2014. This model was especially made for the 175th anniversary of Patek Philippe.

  86. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5131/1 P, made 2017. The enamel cloisonné dial shows the perspective from the North Pole.

  87. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 982/140G-001, made 2013. This “Geisha” watch is one-of-a-kind.

  88. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 1636 M, made 2015. This “Early Hot-Air Balloons” dome clock is one-of-a-kind.

  89. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5089G – 013, made 2015. This model was made especially for the 175th anniversary of Patek Philippe.

  90. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5089G – 014, made 2015. This model was made especially for the 175th anniversary of Patek Philippe.

  91. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5089G – 018, made 2015. This model was made especially for the 175th anniversary of Patek Philippe.

  92. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5089G – 031, made 2015. This timepiece is from the Rare Handcrafts limited edition collection.

  93. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5089G – 021, made 2015. This model was made especially for the 175th anniversary of Patek Philippe.

  94. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5089G – 073, made 2018. This timepiece is from the Rare Handcrafts limited edition collection.

  95. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5089G-079, made 2019. This timepiece is from the Rare Handcrafts limited edition collection.

  96. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 2481 J, made 1954. This is a one-of-a-kind timepiece, only three identified.

  97. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 2481 J, made 1955. This is a one-of-a-kind timepiece, only one identified.

  98. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 2482 J, made 1955. This is one of only twelve known examples. All dials are different.

  99. PATEK PHILIPPE, made 1925. This silver, open-face, extra quality chronometer with 36-hour power reserve indication, won third place at the Geneva Observatory Timing Contest 1925-1926. Provenance: Henry Graves, Jr., Gwendolen Fullerton, Reginald H. Fullerton, Jr.

  100. PATEK PHILIPPE, encased 1926 with a movement dated 1914. An 18 K gold open-face First Prize Observatory chronometer pocket watch, made for Henry Graves, Jr. and engraved with his crest. Provenance: Henry Graves, Jr., Gwendolen Fullerton, Reginald H. Fullerton, Jr.

  101. PATEK PHILIPPE, made 1932. A historically important, unique, platinum open face, one-minute tourbillon chronometer watch with Guillaume Balance, original fitted wood presentation box and “Bulletin d’Observatoire”. Provenance: until 1989, Henry Graves, Jr. Collection. In the same collection since 1989, when sold at the auction “The Art of Patek Philippe”.

  102. PATEK PHILIPPE, movement, 1912, sold 1926. A rare and early open-face, 18K gold pocket watch, with twotrain trip minute-repeating. Made especially for Henry Graves, Jr. and given to Reginald H. Fullerton on the occasion of his marriage to Gwendolen Graves. Provenance: Henry Graves, Jr., Gwendolen Fullerton, Reginald H. Fullerton, Jr.

  103. PATEK PHILIPPE, movement, 1910, encased 1927. A rare, slim, gold hunter case, minute-repeating dress watch made especially for Henry Graves, Jr. Provenance: Henry Graves, Jr., Gwendolen Fullerton, Reginald H. Fullerton, Jr.

  104. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 3700/1A, made 1978. This reference from the first generation “Nautilus” was inspired by Gerald Genta’s 1976 design.

  105. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 3700/1A, made 1979- A unique and complete set with original fitted box and documents.

  106. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 3700/11A, made 1982. This rare second generation example is one of only 1200 pieces produced.

  107. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 3700/ 004 J, made 1980. Retailed by Gobbi, Milan, this is a unique and complete set with original box and documents.

  108. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 3711G-001, made 2004. Around sixty pieces are thought to have been made.

  109. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5711/1R, made 2016. Ref. 5711 / 1 R was presented for the first time at Baselworld in 2015.

  110. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5711/1P-001, made 2016. This limited edition timepiece was made especially for the 40th anniversary of the “Nautilus” model.

  111. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5711/1A-014, made 2021. Although Ref. 5711 ceased production in 2021, a limited number of “Green Dial” editions were made for serious collectors.

  112. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5980/1A-001, made 2010. This timepiece is known as the “Bull’s Eye”, referring to the appearance of the subsidiary dial.

  113. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5980R-001, made 2010. This model was introduced in steel in 2006, and in pink gold in 2010.

  114. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5726/1A-012, made 2016. A specially commissioned one-of-a-kind piece.

  115. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5726/1A-001, made 2019. A rare version with a white dial, annual calendar and moon phases.

  116. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5990/1A-001, made 2015. The first “Nautilus” model with travel time was introduced in 2014.

  117. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5990/1R-001, made 2021. This model was launched in 2021 at Watches & Wonders.

  118. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5976/1G-001, made 2016. This limited edition timepiece was made especially for the 40th anniversary of the “Nautilus” model.

  119. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5740/1G-001, made 2019. The first “Nautilus” model with perpetual calendar and moon phases, was introduced in 2018.

  120. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 96 J, made 1953. This model has an unusual yellow gold bracelet stamped “Gay Frères”.

  121. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5975G-001, made 2015. This chronograph was especially made for the 175th anniversary of Patek Philippe.

  122. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5975 P-001, made 2014. This chronograph was especially made for the 175th anniversary of Patek Philippe.

  123. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5712G – 001, made 2010. The model is an early version with the Geneva seal stamped on the movement.

  124. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5711 /1300 A – 001, made 2021. Named “Green Dial”, this particularly rare variation with a diamond-set bezel, is for the most serious collectors.

  125. PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 96 A, made 1943. Named “Breguet Numerals”, after its unusual applied indexes on the dial.

  126. ROLEX, Ref. 6542, GMT Master, made 1959. Known as “Pussy Galore” in reference to the character from the James Bond film Goldfinger, who wore the same model.

  127. ROLEX, Ref. 1675, GMT Master, made 1972. Referred to as “Blueberry”, due to the colours on the bezel.

  128. ROLEX, Ref. 1675, GMT Master, made 1979. Referred to as “Pepsi”, because the colours used on the bezel are the same as those used in the drink brand’s advertising.

  129. ROLEX, Ref. 16750, GMT Master, made 1983. This transitional model was produced for only seven years, between 1981 and 1988.

  130. ROLEX, Ref. 16750, GMT Master, made 1985. Referred to as “Spider”, due to the spider web-like cracks on the black lacquered dial.

  131. ROLEX, Ref. 16710, GMT Master II, made 1989. Known as “Coke”, because of the drink brand’s colours used on the bezel.

  132. ROLEX, Ref. 16700, GMT Master, made 1997. This model was produced for a decade until it was discontinued in 1999.

  133. ROLEX, Ref. 16700, GMT Master, made 1997. One of only 50 pieces made, this “Chuck Yaeger” watch is named after US Army General Charles Elwood Chuck Yaeger, the first man to break the sound barrier in 1947.

  134. ROLEX, Ref. 16710, GMT Master II, made 2002. “Pepsi” variant from the generation of GMT Master II, produced between 1989 and 2007.

  135. ROLEX, Ref. 1665, Sea-Dweller “Double Red”,made 1967. The Sea-Dweller model set a new standard for depth rating, at 2000 feet (610 meters). It was the first watch to feature a helium escape valve.

  136. ROLEX, Ref. 1680, Submariner “Red Tropical”, made 1969. Known as “Red Tropical”, this example has a uniform aged brown patina on the dial and bezel.

  137. ROLEX, Ref. 1680, Submariner “Red”, made 1970. The “meter’s first” depth rating inscription on this dial is unusual.

  138. ROLEX, Ref. 5513, Submariner, made 1970. A matt black “meter’s first” dial Submariner watch.

  139. ROLEX, Ref. 5513, Submariner, made 1972. This watch was made in collaboration with specialist deepsea diving company COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises), who are based in Marseille, France.

  140. ROLEX, Ref. 1680, Submariner “Red”, made 1973. A rare and complete set with original box and documents.

  141. ROLEX, Ref. 1016, Explorer, made 1974. Launched in 1953, this model was made in honour of Sir Edmund Hillary, who was wearing a Rolex when he became the first man to climb Mount Everest.

  142. ROLEX, Ref. 1655, Explorer II, made 1983. Produced from 1971 – 1985, this model is known as “Freccione”, Italian for arrow, in reference to the orange arrow-shaped 24-hour hand.

  143. ROLEX, Ref. 16800, Submariner, made 1983. Known as “transitional sub” with a matt dial, this model was in production from 1978 to 1988.

  144. ROLEX, Ref. 16610 LV, Submariner, made 2005. This timepiece was made especially for the 50th anniversary of the Submariner model.

  145. ROLEX, Ref. 3525, “Palmiro Togliatti al Dott. P. Biocca Riconoscente 14-7-48”, made 1945. Italian politician, Palmiro Togliatti, Secretary of the Communist Party, gave this watch to Doctor Biocca as a token of gratitude for saving his life. It is now known as “Monoblocco Togliatti”.

  146. ROLEX, Ref. 4500, “Anti- Magnetic”, made 1946 Launched in the 1940’s, this model was available in yellow gold, pink gold and stainless steel.

  147. Rolex, Ref. 6034, “Anti-Magnetic”, made 1951. Examples of this timepiece cased in gold, 14K or 18K, are exceedingly rare.

  148. ROLEX, Ref. 6036, “Jean- Claude Killy”, made 1951. Named “Jean-Claude Killy” after the model was presented to the French Olympic skiing champion.

  149. ROLEX, Ref. 6239, Cosmograph Daytona, made 1966. This “NASA” watch is one-of-a-kind, and formerly belonged to astronaut Walter Cunningham.

  150. ROLEX, Ref. 6239, Cosmograph Daytona, made 1969. Named the “Paul Newman” dial, because the American actor was seen wearing the watch on an Italian poster. The timepiece was officially named “Exotic Dial” by Rolex.

  151. ROLEX, Ref. 6262, Cosmograph Daytona made for the Peruvian Air Force, made 1971. This model made especially for military purpose is engraved on the case back “Fuerza Aerea Del Perù”.

  152. ROLEX, Ref. 6262, Cosmograph Daytona, made 1971. This model was produced for a short period between 1970 and 1971, and is a rare Daytona example, fitted with a “Paul Newman” dial.

  153. ROLEX, Ref. 6263, Cosmograph Daytona, made 1976. This model, with screw-down pushers, is one of the longest running in Rolex’s history. It was produced from 1971 to 1988.

  154. ROLEX, Ref. 116506, Cosmograph Daytona, made 2013. This one-of-a-kind watch, the first of this model to be produced in platinum, was made especially for the Rolex Daytona thematic auction in 2013.

  155. F.P. JOURNE, Limited Edition “Ruthenium Set”, made 2002 Made by watchmaker François-Paul Journe, this platinum model is named “Chronomètre à Résonance”. This example is number five of a limited edition of 99.

  156. F.P. JOURNE, Limited Edition “Ruthenium Set”, made 2002. One of a limited edition of 99, this platinum model “Octa Calendrier” was made by watchmaker François-Paul Journe.

  157. F.P. JOURNE, Limited Edition “Ruthenium Set”, made 2002. This platinum model known as “Octa Auto” is number five of a limited edition of 99, made by watchmaker François-Paul Journe.

  158. F.P. Journe, Limited Edition “Ruthenium Set”, made 2002. This platinum model “Octa Chronograph” was made by watchmaker François-Paul Journe. This is number five of a limited edition of 99.

  159. F.P. JOURNE, Limited Edition “Ruthenium Set”, made 2002. Made by watchmaker François-Paul Journe, this platinum model is named “Tourbillon Souverain”. This example is number five of a limited edition of 99.

  160. VOUTILAINEN, Model“Vingt-8”, made 2013. This model, made by Kari Voutilainen, features a special direct impulse escapement.

  161. VOUTILAINEN, Model “GMT-6”, made 2015. A unique steel piece made for the charity auction “Only Watch” in 2015.

  162. VOUTILAINEN, Model“Vingt-8”, made 2019. This unique steel piece with an enamel dial is one-of-a-kind.

  163. VOUTILAINEN, Model “Vingt-8SC”, N° 3/10, made 2021. This titanium variation features a red dial and centre seconds.

  164. VOUTILAINEN, Model“Vingt-8”, made 2021. This white gold timepiece features a silvered dial with subsidiary seconds and minute track.

  165. VOUTILAINEN, Model “Vingt-8” No. 3/ 10, made 2020. This limited edition model is made from tantalum and features a skeleton dial.

  166. VOUTILAINEN, Model “Vingt-8 Sport” No. 1 / 8, made 2020. Named “Sport”, this steel timepiece with an onyx dial is the first in a limited edition.

  167. AKRIVIA, Ref. AK 06, made 2021. This model with power reserve indicator is one-of-a-kind.

  168. AKRIVIA, Ref. AK 01, made 2021. This tourbillon single button chronograph is one-of-a-kind.

{Know more about the OAK Collection Travelling Exhibition}

Christie’s Geneva Rare Watches Auction 09 May 2022 – Results

Christie’s Geneva Rare Watches Auction on 9th May this year achieved a total of CHF 23,840,700 / US$ 24,076,357 / HK$ 188,172,624. It attracted very strong global participation with registrants from 46 countries across 6 continents. Surprisingly, 51% of the new registrants were millennials.

16 world records were broken, with Daytonas remaining the ‘Queens’ of the game. A particular note was the success of the Rolex Daytona Trilogy. The top achiever among them was the Rolex Daytona Ref 6269 ‘Jack of Diamonds’, which achieved a whopping 1.614 million Swiss francs.

Rolex Daytona Ref 6269 'Jack of Diamonds'
Lot 38: Rolex Daytona Ref 6269 ‘Jack of Diamonds’

Cartier also showed a very strong desirability, with iconic models like the Crash reaching 819’000 CHF.

Top 15 Lots

(1) Lot 38: Rolex Daytona Ref 6269 ‘Jack of Diamonds’

  • Estimate: CHF 1,100,000
  • Achieved: CHF 1.614 million

(2) Lot 129: Rolex Paul Newman Tropical Lemon Daytona Ref. 6264

  • Estimate: CHF 900,000
  • Achieved: CHF 1.254 million

(3) Lot 128: Rolex Daytona ref. 6241 ‘Champagne Paul Newman dial’

  • Estimate: CHF 700,000
  • Achieved: CHF 1,071,000

(4) Lot 66: Patek Philippe “Cathedral” Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5074R-001, Retailed by Tiffany & Co. Property from the Kairos Collection

  • Estimate: CHF 330,000
  • Achieved: CHF 957,600

(5) Lot 133: Cartier London ‘Crash’ 1990

  • Estimate: CHF 180,000
  • Achieved: CHF 819,000

(6) Lot 94: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Advanced Research Ref. 5650G-001

  • Estimate: CHF 150’000
  • Achieved: CHF 756,000

(7) Lot 110: Patek Philippe Nautilus Platinum Watch with Baguette Diamond-set Bezel and Dial Ref. 5711

  • Estimate: CHF 500,000
  • Achieved: CHF 630,000

(8) Lot 24: Rolex Oyster Cosmograph Ref. 6263 Tropical ‘Paul Newman Panda Dial’

  • Estimate: 400,000
  • Achieved: CHF 579,600

(9) Lot 65: Patek Philippe Limited Edition 18K Pink Gold Split-Seconds Chronograph with Black Dial, Ref. 5959R-001, Retailed by Tiffany & Co.

  • Estimate: CHF 140,000 – CHF 230,000
  • Achieved: CHF 453,600

(10) Lot 151: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin with Platinum Case and Smoked Green Sunburst Dial, Ref. 15202PT

  • Estimate: CHF 300,000 – CHF 500,000
  • Achieved: CHF 441,000

(11) Lot 152: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak White Ceramic Perpetual Calendar with Blue dial, Ref. 26579CB

  • Estimate: CHF 250,000 – CHF 450,000
  • Achieved: CHF 403,200

(12) Lot 157: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar with Stainless Steel Case and Salmon Color Dial, Ref. 25654ST

  • Estimate: CHF 150,000 – CHF 250,000
  • Achieved: CHF 340,200

(13) Lot 88: Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases and 24 Hour Indication, Platinum Case and Black Dial, Ref. 5970P-001

  • Estimate: CHF 140,000 – CHF 230,000
  • Achieved: CHF 327,600

(14) Lot 149: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Model with 18K White Gold Case and Tropical Diamond set Dial, Ref. 5402BC, Circa 1977

  • Estimate: CHF 200,000 – CHF 400,000
  • Achieved: CHF 327,600

(15) Lot 109: Patek Philippe Nautilus, 42mm Stainless Steel Automatic Watch with Date, Moon-Phase and Power Reserve Indications, Ref. 5712/1A-001, Retailed By Tiffany & Co.

  • Estimate: CHF 120,000 – CHF 250,000
  • Achieved: CHF 277,200

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo Achieves CHF 22.3 Million in the Royal Oak 50th Sale

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo achieved a total of CHF 22,303,780/ $22,616,032/ €21,538,760 in The Royal Oak 50th Sale on 6 May – a white glove sale that more than tripled its pre-sale low estimate of CHF 6.8 million.

The sale took place on Friday, 6 May, in Geneva, and offered 88 tightly curated lots. The sale precedes The Geneva Watch Auction: XV, which follows on Saturday and Sunday 7-8 May 2022. The majority of lots soared above their high estimates, including several record-breaking watches.

Collectors from across 54 countries joined the auction, and online participation continued to increase exponentially, with more than 1000 online registered bidders. This resulted in half of the lots presented in the Royal Oak 50th selling to online bidders, with 430 watch aficionados participating in person in the saleroom.

The impressive and highly anticipated star-lot, a Royal Oak reference 5402ST A2the second Royal Oak ever made – added extra fervor to the bidding. The watch was one of the four Royal Oak models presented to the press and public at the opening of the Basel watch fair in 1972.

Royal Oak reference 5402ST A2
Royal Oak reference 5402ST A2

During the auction, it eventually surpassed the CHF 1 million mark realizing CHF 1,058,500, therefore selling five times its pre-sale low estimate.

Another impressive result was achieved by the Royal Oak perpetual calendar in platinum, reference 25654PT with copper brown dial, and double-signed by Asprey realized CHF 1,022,200, doubling its pre-sale high estimate.

An icon probably worn by an icon, The Lagerfeld Royal Oak reference 5402ST, a very distinctively blackened stainless-steel Royal Oak Jumbo model, fetched CHF 937,500. The watch, in all likelihood, was bought in Italy in 1974 and is understood to have been worn by the famous German designer, creative director, fashion designer and artist, Karl Lagerfeld.

Finally, another remarkable result was achieved by the Royal Oak “Tuscan” Jubilée ref. 14802P limited edition platinum wristwatch with blue Tuscan dial, date, bracelet, made to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the model, which eventually sold for CHF 804,400.

Top Ten Lots of the Royal Oak 50th

Lot 8: Audemars Piguet Ref. 5402ST Royal Oak A series, “The A2” – An historically important and extremely well-preserved stainless-steel wristwatch with date, bracelet, box and certificate of origin.

Royal Oak reference 5402ST A2

  • Estimate: CHF 200,000-400,000
  • Achieved: CHF 1,058,500/ $ 1,073,319/ € 1,022,193 (world record for a vintage Royal Oak ever at auction)

Lot 40: Audemars Piguet Ref. 25654PT Royal Oak – An extremely rare and attractive platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with brown dial, bracelet, certificate and box retailed by Asprey bearing N0. 1.

Audemars Piguet Ref. 25654PT Royal Oak

  • Estimate: CHF 250,000-500,000
  • Achieved: CHF 1,022,200/ $1,036,511/ € 987,138 (World record for any perpetual calendar Royal Oak)

Lot 88: Audemars Piguet Ref. 5402ST Royal Oak Jumbo “Karl Lagerfeld” – A very distinctive blackened stainless-steel wristwatch with date and bracelet.

Audemars Piguet Ref. 5402ST Royal Oak Jumbo Karl Lagerfeld

  • Estimate: CHF 100,000-200,000
  • Achieved: CHF 937,500/ $ 950,625/ € 905,343

Lot 10: Audemars Piguet Ref. 14802PT Royal Oak “Tuscan” Jubilée – An extremely attractive limited edition platinum wristwatch with blue Tuscan dial, date, bracelet, made to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the model.

Audemars Piguet Ref. 14802PT Royal Oak Tuscan Jubilée

  • Estimate: CHF 250,000-500,000
  • Achieved: CHF 804,400/ $ 815,662/ € 776,809 (world record for the model)

Lot 33: Audemars Piguet Ref. 25829TP Royal Oak – An extremely rare and superb tantalum and platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with open-worked dial and bracelet, part of a 16-pieces limited series.

Audemars Piguet Ref. 25829TP Royal Oak watch

  • Estimate: CHF 120,000-240,000
  • Achieved: CHF 768,100/ $ 779,259/ € 742,140 (world record for the model)

Lot 52: Audemars Piguet Ref. 5402ST Royal Oak Jumbo “Khanjar” – An extremely rare and fine stainless-steel wristwatch with date and bracelet, made for the Sultanate of Oman.

Audemars Piguet Ref. 5402ST Royal Oak Jumbo Khanjar

  • Estimate: CHF 150,000-300,000
  • Achieved: CHF 756,000/ $ 766,584/ € 730,069

Lot 15: Audemars Piguet Ref. 25636PT Royal Oak – A superbly rare and incredibly attractive platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with open-worked dial, moonphases, bracelet and box.

Audemars Piguet Ref. 25636PT Royal Oak

  • Estimate: CHF 200,000-400,000
  • Achieved: CHF 680,400/ $ 689,925/ € 657,052

Lot 54: Audemars Piguet Ref. 5554ST Royal Oak “Triple Serial” – A supremely rare stainless steel perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases, 4-digit reference and “triple serial” case. The first and thinnest Royal Oak perpetual calendar model ever produced, part of a 49 pieces series.

Audemars Piguet Ref. 5554ST Royal Oak Triple Serial

  • Estimate: CHF 80,000-160,000
  • Achieved: CHF 680,400/ $ 689,925/ € 657,062

Lot 72: Audemars Piguet Ref. 25659BA – An impressive yellow gold and diamond perpetual calendar wristwatch with open worked dial, part of a 3-pieces limited series.

Audemars Piguet Ref. 25659BA

  • Estimate: CHF 250,000-500,000
  • Achieved: CHF 630’000/ $ 638,820/ € 608,391

Lot 61: Audemars Piguet Ref. 25654ST Royal Oak – A very attractive stainless steel perpetual calendar wristwatch with salmon dial, bracelet, certificate and box.

Audemars Piguet Ref. 25654ST Royal Oak

  • Estimate: CHF 100,000-200,000
  • Achieved: CHF 579,600/ $ 587,714/ € 559,719

Auction summary

Auction name: The Royal Oak 50th by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo
Total amount achieved: CHF 22,303,780/ $22,616,032/ €21,538,760
Lots sold: 88
Lots offered: 88
Sold by lot: 100%
Sold by value: 100%

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo – Highlights from Independent Watchmakers

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo has now revealed the creations by the independent watch makers for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV, which will take place on 27 and 28 May at the JW Marriott in Hong Kong.

Besides important timepieces from powerhouses such as Patek Philippe, Rolex and A. Lange & Söhne, the Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV will also have a selection of carefully curated timepieces from some of the most creative and talented independent watchmakers.

The notable independent brands highlighted in this sale are Richard Mille, F.P. Journe, Lang & Heyne, Voutilainen, Christophe Claret, De Bethune, Gérald Genta, MB&F, Urwerk and Laurent Ferrier.

Richard Mille Ref. RM67-02 CA-FQ, Quartz TPT and titanium wristwatch, Circa 2021

Ever since the release of his first model in 2001 Richard Mille has been known for visionary and avant-garde designs with an aesthetic never seen before in the history of watchmaking.

Richard Mille Ref. RM67-02 CA-FQ, Quartz TPT and titanium wristwatch

The present RM 67-02 is in perfect tune with Mille’s philosophy pushed to the limits as this ultra light piece weighs a jaw dropping mere 32 grams (including the strap) thanks to the combination of TPT composite materials and grade 5 titanium of the case.

It was developed with Alexis Pinturault the French ski champion, who is the most successful French skier in World Cup history with 34 World Cup victories.

Estimate: HK$2,000,000 – 4,000,000/ US$256,000-513,000

Richard Mille Ref. RM011 AH Ti, black-coated titanium skeletonized tonneau-shaped flyback chronograph wristwatch, numbered 2 of a limited edition of 30 pieces, circa 2009

With an ever engaging relationship with Formula 1, Richard Mille has offered numerous models in collaboration with professional athletes over the years, with one of the most recognised being the Felipe Masa series of RM011.

Richard Mille RM011 Chronopassion Black Limited ref. RM011 AH Ti

The present example RM011 belongs to one of the earliest limited edition models made under the RM011 umbrella. It is also one of the very first examples to feature a DLC-coated titanium case giving an all-black appeal contrasted with white, red and yellow accents, colours that pays its tribute to the racetrack. This piece was made especially for official Richard Mille authorized dealer, Chronopassion founded by respected collector and watch maker Laurent Picciotto.

Estimate: HK$1,100,000 – 2,000,000/ US$141,000-256,000

F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Resonance, platinum dual-time wristwatch, Circa 2003

Launched in 2000 the Chronomètre à Resonance had the effect of a tidal wave in the horological world as it was the world’s first wristwatch using the resonance phenomenon. The movement is composed of two independent balances alternatively serving as an “exciter” and “resonator”.

F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Resonance, platinum dual-time wristwatch

When in motion, the balances create the resonance effect and beat in opposition, naturally evening out each other’s discrepancies and thus permitting greater accuracy.

Made from 2000 to 2005, the first generation Chronomètre à Resonance features rhodium plated brass movements and a 38mm case. The present example is from circa 2003 in platinum with an attractively aged copper dial. This watch is complimented by its full set of accessories.

Estimate: HK$1,300,000 – 2,300,000/ US$167,000-295,000

F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain, platinum tourbillon wristwatch, Circa 2002

Engraved No. 191/02T, the present F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain in platinum from 2002 can be identified as part of the fourth generation of Journe’s Tourbillon Souverain with brass movements.

F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain, platinum tourbillon wristwatch

Measuring at 38mm in diameter, these fourth generations were produced between 2001 until 2003 with an estimated run of 320 examples. Cased only in platinum and pink gold, these timepieces were offered with dial plates from the most common yellow gold, followed by white gold, and like the present example in pink gold as being the rarest variation.

Estimate: HK$1,150,000 – 1,950,000 / US$147,000-250,000

F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier, pink gold annual calendar wristwatch, Circa 2006

While the very first timepieces from F.P. Journe are mostly referred to the Tourbillon Souverain and the Resonance, it is around the same time where Journe also introduced the Octa Calendrier, being the first self-winding wristwatch by the firm.

Featuring an annual calendar complication with its signature asymmetric dial with two windows for day and month indication the date is indicated via retrograde style with a central hand.

F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier, pink gold annual calendar wristwatch

The present example F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier in pink gold from circa 2006 with a 38mm diameter case belongs to an extremely rare variant featuring a black mother-of-pearl dial launched as a limited edition of 10 pieces in 2005 for Singaporean retailer Sincere Fine Watches.

Estimate: HK$470,000 – 935,000/ US$60,300-120,000

Lang & Heyne Friedrich II Remontoir “Prototype”: A unique stainless steel prototype wristwatch with black enamel dial, luminous hands, titanium movement, Circa 2021

With an estimated production of no more than 100 timepieces per year, German independent brand Lang & Heyne creates exclusive and innovative timepieces for watch lovers.

This season, Phillips is presenting the Friedrich II Remontoir “Prototype”, a unique timepiece featuring an entirely new movement developed by Lang & Heyne, made in collaboration with Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo and The Lavish Attic.

Lang & Heyne Friedrich II Remontoir “Prototype”

Lang & Heyne integrated a Remontoir mechanism into its Caliber VI movement, but with a slight twist, using titanium as the base material. It is almost unheard of until now, with movement made in titanium, a material which is hard to manufacture and process mainly due to its hardness and many other interesting properties that make it even harder for most manufacturers to consider it as an option to create a movement out of it.

The Friedrich II Remontoir “Prototype” model is simple and understated. The minimalistic appearance symbolises the amusement of simplicity without having to forego exclusive details. The dial indices and handcrafted hands are filled with superluminova, a non-radioactive and nontoxic afterglow pigment used to illuminate makers on watch faces. The bracelet was exclusively designed and produced in stainless steel just for this unique piece.

With the complex mechanism from Lang & Heyne, the serene black enamel dial, and an innovative approach to use titanium for the movement, the present timepiece offers a tremendous combination of breakthroughs for any discerning collector.

Estimate: In excess of HK$460,000 / US$59,000 (offered with no reserve)

Two more Lang & Heyne watches are available. First one is Anton in stainless steel. It is a flying tourbillon watch featuring a rectangular case and grand feu enamel dial. Estimate: HK$260,000 – 510,000. The second piece is Lang & Heyne Georg, a platinum watch with rectangular case, small seconds display and enamel dial.

Voutilainen Vingt-8 Hisui: A unique platinum wristwatch with tear drop lugs, Japanese lacquering, cabochon emerald, Circa 2017

The stunning Vingt-8 Hisui featured in this season’s sale is a piece unique by Kari Voutilainen. This creation also won the GPHG Artistic Crafts Watch Prize in 2014. It was created in collaboration with one of the greatest lacquer studio in Japan, Unryuan, under the guidance of Master Tatsuo Kitamura.

Voutilainen Vingt-8 Hisui

Meticulously selected according to colour and quality, the dial is crafted with natural elements including gold dust, gold leaf, great green turban shells and abalone shell found from New Zealand.

It is also worth noting that the chameleon like dial is ever-changing in shades from various angle, while viewed in its frontal manner the dial shines in green and blue, on the other hand when viewed from its profile, the dial can change into a stunning blue only shade. Operated by the Cabochon emerald set crown, the in-house movement is the very same calibre found in the Vingt-8 series.

Estimate: HK$780,000 – 1,560,000 / US$100,000-200,000

Christophe Claret Soprano: A limited edition white gold and PVD-coated titanium semi-skeletonized minute repeating tourbillon wristwatch, Circa 2012

With an expertise for minute repeating timepieces, Christophe Claret released the Soprano Minute Repeater equipped with a 1-minute tourbillon escapement and an impressive Westminster chime with four hammers and patented cathedral gongs.

Christophe Claret Soprano

With a futuristic design language, the case is composed of white gold for the bezel and caseback while the main case and casebands are composed of grade 5 PVD-coated titanium to maximise the quality of the chime totalling 45mm in diameter. Requiring extreme precision to achieve the perfect Westminster Chime each individual gong must be executed to the highest level of accuracy. The present example of Christophe Claret Soprano Minute Repeater watch is numbered 6.

Estimate: HK$260,000 – 510,000/ US$33,300-65,400

De Bethune

During the sale, Phillips will be offering highly sought-after De Bethune models like DB 25 Starry Various in Titanium, DB5S Stainless Steel, DB 24 Titanium Big Power Super Sport, DB28GS Grand Bleu dive watch in Titanium and Black Zirconium, DB S-R Pink Gold Skeleton, DB 25 Starry Sky in White Gold and DB28 Titanium.

Laurent Ferrier

The organizers are also auctioning Laurent Ferrier timepieces like Galet Classic in 18K white gold and Galet Square Micro-Rotor Autumn model featuring stainless steel case and a salmon dial.

MB&F

The sale is also offering a MB&F HM3 Megawind Final Edition watch made in 2015, in a limited edition of 25 pieces. It features a black PVD coated gold and titanium case. Estimate: HK$200,000 – 400,000. Another lot from MB&F is a Horological Machine No8 CAN-AM, crafted in 18K pink gold and titanium. Estimate: HK$250,000 – 450,000.

Auction schedule

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV
Auction: 27 – 28 May, 2022
Hong Kong Preview: 24- 28 May, 2022
Location: JW Marriott Hong Kong, 88 Queensway, Admiralty

Phillips to Present the F.P.Journe Tourbillon Souverain “China 2010”Limited Edition in The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV

Following the announcement of selected highlights from The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV, which will take place on 27 and 28 May, Phillips has announced an additional highlight that will be featured in the sale – the F.P.Journe Tourbillon Souverain “China 2010” limited edition in platinum.

The present example features a red lacquered dial displaying the five stars as seen on the national flag of China is one out of the five examples created to commemorate the opening of F.P. Journe Boutique in Beijing in 2010. It is exceedingly rare and important due to its bold design and important commemoration of one of the brand’s most important markets.

F.P.Journe Tourbillon Souverain China 2010 Limited Edition

Established in 1999, F.P. Journeis determined by collectors around the world as one of the few grails of the world of haute horology. Epitomizing connoisseurship and exclusivity, Journe timepieces are exceedingly rare with an extremely low annual output of less than 1,000 pieces worldwide.

As one of the most exceptional contemporary watchmakers, the founder Francois-Paul Journe has successfully blended the perfect balance of art and mechanical engineering, with an emphasis in creating innovatively sound complications, functions, paired precisely and logically with its finishing and materials.

Since 2002, F.P. Journe has been awarded a total of 7 awards at the prestigious GPHG. Among which, he was granted the highest award, Aiguille d’Or “Golden Hand”, at the GPHG in 2004 for the F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain, the first tourbillon wristwatch paired with remontoire in history.

In 2010, F.P. Journecelebrated the opening of their boutique in Beijing at a prime location located in the Yintaï Centre, being the 6th boutique worldwide following Tokyo, Hong Kong, Geneva, Paris and New York.

F.P.Journe Tourbillon Souverain China 2010 Limited Edition

To commemorate the memorable milestone of the brand, F.P. Journe created an exclusive limited edition series of 5 Tourbillon Souverain timepieces with deadbeat seconds, remontoir d’égalité, and power reserve indication.

The present lot also features a vibrantly colored red lacquered dial displaying the five stars as seen on the national flag of China, replacing the hour units for the power reserve indication as seen in regular examples of the model. This was the first ever Tourbillon Souverain to feature a red dial.

In 2014, F.P. Journe was chosen as the official horological patron for the diplomatic relations between France and China for over 50 years, further solidifying his status as the best in the industry, not only in the western part of the world but also the up and coming region of Asia, more specifically China.

F.P.Journe Tourbillon Souverain China 2010 Limited Edition

Based on the research of Phillips’ specialists, only 2 of the 5 examples made, including the one to be offered in the upcoming Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV, is known in private hands, making the lot distinctly rare.

The present example is furthermore well-preserved and complete with its full set of accessories. Not only a testament to the importance of the Chinese market to F.P. Journe, but also a piece of horological art and the most iconic Journe complicated wristwatch ever made.

  • Model name: F.P. Journe,Tourbillon Souverain “China 2010” limited edition in platinum

  • Estimate: HK$3,900,000-7,800,000

Auction details

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV
Auction: 27-28 May 2022
Hong Kong Preview: 24-28 May 2022
Location: JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong

Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV, 27-28 May 2022 – Highlights

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo has announced highlights ahead of The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV, which will take place on 27 and 28 May at the JW Marriott in Hong Kong.

The auction follows Phillips Watches’ most successful year in Asia, which achieved an annual total of HK$422 million/ US$ 54 million in 2021 and the first white glove year in the region’s auction history.

Patek Philippe

Leading the sale is a possibly unique Patek Philippe Ref. 3974 in a yellow gold case made by the legendary casemaker Jean-Pierre Hagmann. The Ref. 3974 was launched in 1989 to celebrate the brand’s 150th anniversary.

Patek Philippe Ref. 3974 in yellow gold. Circa 1990. Estimate: HK$3,200,000-6,500,000
Patek Philippe Ref. 3974 in yellow gold. Circa 1990. Estimate: HK$3,200,000-6,500,000

A self-winding watch featuring a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar, 24-hour indication and phases of the moon, it was the world’s most complicated wristwatch when launched. One of the earliest produced, this truly stellar example features a striking black lacquer dial embellished with the prestigious symbol of excellence, the Calatrava Cross.

Other details that show extensive customization by Patek Philippe include the italicized font used for the calendar indications, and the applied gold Breguet numerals that are always a rare and desirable configuration for complicated Patek Philippe wristwatches matching beautifully with the hue of the case.

Exceptional modern timepieces by Patek Philippe will be offered in the sale. Highlights include a Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5723/112R-001, which features the rare and desirable baguette-cut ruby-set bezel and indexes totalling 4 carats.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5723/112R-001 in pink gold, retailed by Tiffany & Co. Circa 2018. Estimate: HK$2,350,000-3,900,000
Patek Philippe Ref. 5723/112R-001 in pink gold, retailed by Tiffany & Co. Circa 2018. Estimate: HK$2,350,000-3,900,000

Incredibly rare and fresh-to-the-market, this is the first example to appear to be stamped with the prestigious brand Tiffany & Co., complete with its full set of accessories with a Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin stamped by Tiffany & Co. New York, USA.

First launched in 2003, Ref. 5101 features a large yet elegant stepped platinum case reminiscent of Art Deco aesthetics. This reference is fitted with two complications that are very difficult to build within the confines of a rectangular movement and case, due to the lack of space.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5101P Platinum rectangular-shaped tourbillon chronometer. Circa 2005. Estimate: HK$900.000-1,500,000
Patek Philippe Ref. 5101P Platinum rectangular-shaped tourbillon chronometer. Circa 2005. Estimate: HK$900.000-1,500,000

The present watch, fitted with a classic salmon dial, featuring masculine touch of blackened Breguet numerals.

At Baselworld in 2010, Patek Philippe announced the Ref. 5950, a cushion-form, single button split-seconds chronograph with the incredible caliber CHR 27-525PS, which was first seen in 2005 in the 5959P, and it was the thinnest column-wheel chronograph caliber ever made when launched.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5950A-001 Stainless steel single button split-seconds chronograph. Circa 2010. Estimate: HK$2,000,000-4,000,000
Patek Philippe Ref. 5950A-001 Stainless steel single button split-seconds chronograph. Circa 2010. Estimate: HK$2,000,000-4,000,000

An “application piece” reserved for the brand’s best clients, the steel Ref. 5950 further impressed collectors with its raised, applied black gold Breguet numerals, black lacquer scroll detailing at the corners and on the buckle, and its lustrous opaline dial.

Vintage Rolex

Vintage Rolexes have seen a significant increase in demand over the years. Phillips is presenting a great selection of vintage Rolex models this season with many fresh-to-the-market gems, to meet collectors’ ever-growing desire for vintage watches.

Rolex Daytona Ref. 16528 with “Ying Yang” concept dial. Circa 1989. Estimate: HK$1,560,000-3,120,000
Rolex Daytona Ref. 16528 with “Ying Yang” concept dial. Circa 1989. Estimate: HK$1,560,000-3,120,000

Offered at auction for the first time, the present Rolex Daytona Ref. 16528 with an “R83” serial from circa 1989 is an extremely rare sight. Featuring a MK1 200-unit bezel evolving from the Ref. 6265, it is fitted with a concept porcelain dial featuring an unusual four lines of texts “OYSTER COSMOGRAPH SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED” below the coronet.

Furthermore, another interesting feature is its black “DAYTONA” inscription above the 6 o’clock instead of its usual cherry coloured signature, hence earning its nickname the “Ying Yang” as depicted in Pucci Papaleo’s Ultimate Rolex Daytona book.

Rolex Ref. 6263 Stainless steel wristwatch with UAE Quraysh Hawk dial, made for Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum. Circa 1975. Estimate: HK$1,200,000-2,000,000
Rolex Ref. 6263 Stainless steel wristwatch with UAE Quraysh Hawk dial, made for Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum. Circa 1975. Estimate: HK$1,200,000-2,000,000

With only a handful of examples known in the market to date, the Rolex Ref. 6263 features UAE Quraysh Hawk dial with the signature of the Ministry of Defense written in Arabic script was made specially for Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum.

Released in 1965, the Ref. 6241 produced until approximately 1969 for a total of four years, and it is estimated by scholars and established connoisseurs that only 2,300 examples in stainless steel were produced.

Rolex Ref. 6241 Stainless steel wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial. Circa 1968. Estimate: HK$1,200,000-2,000,000
Rolex Ref. 6241 Stainless steel wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial. Circa 1968. Estimate: HK$1,200,000-2,000,000

The present Ref. 6241 “Paul Newman” with a 1.7 million serial from circa 1968 is of the later batch of the reference featuring an oval-shaped case and a correct Mk I bezel insert. Not only the present model is offered in excellent condition, but it also accompanied by all the accessories making this “Exotic” Ref. 6241 one of the few known in “full set” condition.

The present Submariner with the so-called Explorer dial Ref. 5512 is undoubtedly part of the earliest production recognisable by its exceptional details such as the attractive two-liner gilt dial with chapter ring and pointed crown guards.

Rolex Ref. 5512 Stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with “exclamation mark” Explorer dial. Circa 1961. Estimate: HK$780,000-1,560,000
Rolex Ref. 5512 Stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with “exclamation mark” Explorer dial. Circa 1961. Estimate: HK$780,000-1,560,000

Marked with the most desirable and important detail of all is the dot that sits at 6 o’clock which identified by collectors as the “exclamation mark” dial. Such dials were in production only for a very short period between 1961 until 1962 to designate the transition of luminous material with lower radiation count due to health hazards during the era. This extraordinary fresh-to-the-market gem is the earliest known Ref. 5512 with “exclamation mark” Explorer dial.

Metiers d’Art Watches from Patek Philippe

When it comes to the art of enamelling in timepieces, the first to be mentioned would often be Patek Philippe. This season, Phillips is delighted to present an array of watches feature Métiers d’Art techniques, from cloisonné enamelling, hand engraving to marquetry.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5077P-016 platinum wristwatch with cloisonné enamel “Peacock Butterfly” dial signed by Anita Porchet. Circa 2009. Estimate: HK$550,000-1,000,000
Patek Philippe Ref. 5077P-016 platinum wristwatch with cloisonné enamel “Peacock Butterfly” dial signed by Anita Porchet. Circa 2009. Estimate: HK$550,000-1,000,000

Created by acclaimed enameller Anita Porchet, the cloisonné enamelled Peacock Butterfly scene framed within the sinuous lines of the Calatrava case is simply one of a kind. It has been kept in the collection of the original owner for 13 years and never offered in auctions.

Patek Philippe Ref.866/26 yellow gold open face pocket watch enameled “Retour du Verger” after F. Ribeira signed by Hélène May-Mercier. Circa 1974. Estimate: HK$625,000-1,250,000
Patek Philippe Ref.866/26 yellow gold open face pocket watch enameled “Retour du Verger” after F. Ribeira signed by Hélène May-Mercier. Circa 1974. Estimate: HK$625,000-1,250,000

The Patek Philippe open face pocket watch Ref. 866/26 in yellow gold features an exquisite miniature enamel painting of “Retour du Verger” or “Return from the Orchard” by Spanish painter Francisco Ribera Gómez from the early 20th century, it was reinterpreted by master enameller Mrs. Hélène May-Mercier at Patek Philippe in 1974, who was an enamel miniature painter at Patek Philippe in Geneva from the 1970s until the 1990s.

Patek Philippe Ref.86626 yellow gold open face pocket watch

Presented as part of the Rare Handcrafts collection as a unique piece, the Peregrine Falcon open-faced pocket watch Ref.982/147 exhibits the spectacular decoration of Marquetry, a technique consists of stacking sheets of veneer into black, followed by a cutting process to produce fine wood pieces that only a handful of marquetry makers can assemble into art pieces.

Patek Philippe Ref. 982/147R-001 pink gold open-faced pocket watch with marquetry dial. Circa 2016. Estimate: HK$1,170,000-2,000,000
Patek Philippe Ref. 982/147R-001 pink gold open-faced pocket watch with marquetry dial. Circa 2016. Estimate: HK$1,170,000-2,000,000

Patek Philippe ref. 982147R-001 - Peregrine watch

Unveiled in 2015 as part of the Rare Handcrafts collection, the cloisonné enameled Ref. 5089 produced in low numbers pays a thematic tribute to its great traditions.

Illustrated with the timeless, understated lines of the Calatrava cased in white gold sets an ample canvas for the world’s most beautiful and legendary alps, The Enchanted Mountains series.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5089G-028 white gold wristwatch with cloisonne enamel dial. Circa 2015. Estimate: HK$700,000-1,000,000
Patek Philippe Ref. 5089G-028 white gold wristwatch with cloisonne enamel dial. Circa 2015. Estimate: HK$700,000-1,000,000

The quartet of enamel-dialed Calatravas span across high altitude from the Matterhorn of Switzerland, Mont Blanc of France to the summits of Mount Everest Asia and last but not least, Mount Fuji the symbol of Japan.

A. Lange & Söhne

Taking the tourbillon to new heights, the Pour le Mérite was the first wristwatch to feature the most precious fusée-and-chain transmission. Exceedingly rare and important, the present Ref. 701.001 is numbered 49 of the 150 timepieces made in gold.

A. Lange & Söhne, Tourbillon Pour Le Mérite Ref.701.001 in yellow gold. Circa 1995. Estimate: 1,600,000-2,400,000
A. Lange & Söhne, Tourbillon Pour Le Mérite Ref.701.001 in yellow gold. Circa 1995. Estimate: 1,600,000-2,400,000

A complete work of art, the Tourbillon Pour le Mérite from circa 1995 is one of the earliest batches has aged with an attractive patina from oxidation throughout the whole case.

The Tourbograph Perpetual “Pour le Mérite” is a unique combination of a fusée-and-chain transmission with a tourbillon, chronograph, rattrapante and a perpetual calendar. These five complications were first united in this wristwatch in 2017, limited to 50 timepieces in platinum.

A. Lange & Söhne, Tourbograph Perpetual Pour le Mérite Ref. 706.025FE in platinum. Circa 2020. Estimate: HK$1,270,000-2,500,000
A. Lange & Söhne, Tourbograph Perpetual Pour le Mérite Ref. 706.025FE in platinum. Circa 2020. Estimate: HK$1,270,000-2,500,000

The present example in platinum numbered 37 from circa 2020 is the first example to appear at a Phillips auction.

Further highlights of the sale include watches from independent watchmakers such as Richard Mille, F.P. Journe, Lang & Heyne, Kari Voutilainen and Christophe Claret will be announced in due course.

Auction details

Name of auction: The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV
Auction: 27 – 28 May, 2022
Preview: 24- 28 May, 2022
Location: JW Marriott Hong Kong, 88 Queensway, Admiralty
Link: https://www.phillips.com/auctions/auction/HK080122

Phillips Announces Early Highlights from The New York Watch Auction: SIX

Phillips has announced the addition of a new Watch auction to the house’s expanding sale calendar.

The New York Watch Auction: SIX will be hosted on 11-12 June, offering collectors over 160 rare and historically important timepieces.

Leading the sale is the very first George Daniels Anniversary Watch ever made, cased in platinum and bearing the unique serial number “00.”

The sale also includes an F.P.Journe Chronomètre Souverain gifted to Dr. George Daniels, CBE, by François-Paul Journe, as well as five wristwatches from the acclaimed collection of American actor James Garner, led by his iconic Heuer Carrera, one of the most important Heuers to come to market in recent times.

The George Daniels Anniversary Watch, Number “00” Leading the auction is the George Daniels Anniversary Watch in platinum, bearing the coveted serial number, “00”. Over the course of Daniels’ lifetime, only 24 unique pocket watches were entirely hand-made by him, in addition to two completely unique, hand‐made wristwatches.

Produced in collaboration with the esteemed British watchmaker, Roger Smith, two serially-produced, limited edition models were developed under his leadership and bear his signature; the George Daniels Millennium launched in 1998 with just over 50 examples made, and the George Daniels Anniversary watch launched in 2010, with just 35 examples produced.

Dr. George Daniels, CBE, is revered as a 20th and 21st century horological master, whose ingenious co-axial escapement had a profound impact on the history of mechanical timekeeping.

Daniels’ concept for the Anniversary model was to commemorate the 35th anniversary of his invention of the co-axial escapement. He approached his sole protégé, Roger Smith, who today is recognized as his successor and the premier British horologist, to collaborate on producing the series together.

A total of 35 George Daniels Anniversary watches, commemorating the 35th anniversary of the co-axial escapement, would be produced over the following years since its launch in 2010, with just four examples produced in platinum, like the present lot.

George Daniels wanted the Anniversary model to also be a celebration of his life’s work, and the platinum “00” is a wonderful representation of the best in handmade, traditional English watchmaking. A portion of the proceeds from the sale will benefit The George Daniels Educational Trust, The Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, and the Horological Society of New York.

Phillips will also auction a unique and historically important F. P. Journe platinum Chronomètre Souverain wristwatch gifted to and owned by George Daniels. The timepiece was a gift and tribute from François-Paul Journe to Daniels in recognition of their enduring friendship, and personalized with the movement engraved, “FP to George Daniels my Mentor 2010”.

Included with the watch is a signed letter from Journe, noting in French, “Thanks to your publications as The Art of Breguet or Watchmaking, I have patiently learned on my workbench to make my first watch, you know the rest.”

Journe’s Chronomètre Souverain is amongst his most recognizable references, and was his first timepiece with a central time display.

Released in several variations, the principle objective of these timepieces, as the name implies, is chronometric precision. Contemporary, elegant, and classic, this unique Chronomètre Souverain is the perfect match between the genius of its creator and his predecessors. The beauty of this wristwatch is not only displayed on the dial side, but also when turned over one is amazed by its superbly hand finished movement made from 18K pink gold.

First appearing at auction in 2012 when items from George Daniels’ collection were sold following his passing, the present lot is in nearly unworn condition.

A selection of watches from the personal collection of American actor James Garner has been consigned directly by his daughter, Gigi Garner. The group is headlined by a Heuer Carrera reference 2447, notably seen in The Rockford Files and printed with Garner’s name on the dial. Heuer chronographs have been used for timed events from the Olympics to the Grand Prix of Monaco, and today they are sought by collectors for their iconic designs and technical innovations.

In the mid-1960s, several Carreras were modified upon request by retailers and sponsors affiliated with Heuer to have special emblems and names printed on the dial. Often, these were related to auto racing.

As an Indianapolis 500 pace car driver, auto racing enthusiast, and producer and star of the 1966 movie, Grand Prix, it makes perfect sense that James Garner would be one of those entitled to receive a special Carrera.

Produced in part by Garner’s own Cherokee Productions, the film went on to win three Academy Awards. Garner was one of the few actors skilled enough as a driver to train with a professional racer.

After the production and release of Grand Prix, Garner’s interest in racing continued to grow. His daughter Gigi recounted that her father attended at least 40 Indy 500s, and drove the pace car at the event on three separate occasions – usually with this Heuer Carrera on his wrist. According to Gigi, it was his “favorite everyday watch” and is seen often in pictures from the era and on episodes of The Rockford Files.

This incredible piece of horological, automotive, and cinematic history is followed by a quartet of Cartier watches, most delightfully a manually-wound Cartier Baignoire. The present example, owned and worn by the actor, is a medium-sized model of the Baignoire Paris dating to the 1960s.

Preserved in outstanding original condition, the case bears the eagle’s head hallmark for 18K gold imported to France, and a “Made in France” designation, corroborating the “Paris” dial. It was most notably seen and photographed on Garner’s wrist during the 2000 premiere of Space Cowboys.

A portion of the proceeds from the sale of his watches will benefit The James Garner Animal Rescue Fund.

Sale Information

Christie’s Watches Online: The Geneva Edit, 3 – 17 May 2022 – Highlights

Christie’s Watches Geneva presents Watches Online: The Geneva Edit, a curated selection of eye-catching timepieces, including the most coveted modern icons.

In pole position for this Online Sale, which will take place from 3 to 17 May, is a stunning Richard Mille RM 11-03 Automatic Flyback Chronograph in titanium. Considered to be a must-have in collections of contemporary modern sports timepieces, this Richard Mille reference with its yellow rubber bracelet will not fail to seduce bidders.

This year, Christie’s Geneva is also celebrating the 50th Anniversary of Audemars Piguet’s iconic Royal Oak design with a stunning curation of these legends, among which features No. A 1690 of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘A-series’ with tropical dial Ref. 5402ST.

During the auction, a number of Patek Philippe ‘Nautilus’ watches will be offered, including Ref. 5711/1R-001 Brown Dragon, Ref. 5712/1A and Ref. 5980/1R Chronograph.

Another highlight of this auction is a Rolex ‘Day-Date’ Ref. 1807 specially made for Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said of Oman, with a particularly attractive case and bracelet finish, and the striking red signature.

Top Lots

Richard Mille RM11-03 Automatic Flyback Chronograph in Titanium

Replacing the RM 11, which was launched in 2007, this RM 11-03 Automatic Chronograph with flyback function, from circa 2019, is highly characteristic of the Maison’s horological DNA.

Inspired by the world of motor racing, the Richard Mille RM 11-03, with its tonneau-shaped titanium case, borrows several codes that make it one of the sportiest models in the catalogue.

Richard Mille RM11-03 Automatic Flyback Chronograph in Titanium

A transparent sapphire crystal case back which allows the wearer to view the movement within the watch: The RMAC3 Calibre with automatic winding movement, offers analogue time function, flyback chronograph, 60-minute countdown timer and oversized date display. It has a skeletonised dial with raised yellow-dotted hour markers and Arabic numerals.

A tachymeter scale circles the dial near the bezel in a green font and a small seconds sub-dial, there is a date aperture between the 4 and 5 o’clock position, and the current year aperture under the 12 o’clock position. Its two mainspring barrels are mounted side-by-side to ensure stable coupling and provide up to 55 hours of power reserve.

Estimate: CHF260,000-400,000

Patek Philippe pink gold ‘Nautilus’ Ref. 5980/1R Chronograph, circa 2015

Making its debut in 2006, the Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 5980 was introduced on the occasion of the Basel Fair during the 30th anniversary of the iconic reference 3700/1 designed by Gérald Genta. As a vital complication of a sports watch, it is equipped with a chronograph function and the renowned “bull’s eye” subsidiary dial.

Patek Philippe pink gold 'Nautilus' Ref. 59801R Chronograph, circa 2015

First seen on reference 5960, this design has captivated the heart of collectors by showcasing the hours in the inner part of the dial and minutes on the outer ring.
Reference 5980 is fitted with Patek Philippe’s entirely in-house made chronograph calibre 28-520 C.

The calibre 28-520 C was originally created for the reference 5960, Patek Philippe’s first self-winding chronograph with annual calendar, it was later adjusted for reference 5980 without the date display.

Estimate: CHF220,000-320,000

Patek Philippe pink gold ‘Nautilus’ Ref. 5711/1R-001 Brown Dragon

The present reference 5711/1R-001 is one of the most coveted timepieces of Patek Philippe’s contemporary production.

Launched in 2006 and paying tribute to the iconic Nautilus reference 3700 designed by Gérald Genta in 1976, the reference 5711 was crafted with a three part case of slightly larger thickness, one millimetre wider than the reference 3700, to which it is practically identical on an aesthetical level, but featuring a sapphire display back revealing the caliber 324 S C. Now with a sweep centre seconds mechanism added to the date function, the model quickly focused the attention of Patek Philippe collectors, it is highly sought after and considered as a must-have within contemporary collections.

Patek Philippe pink gold 'Nautilus' Ref. 57111R-001 Brown Dragon

This Nautilus 5711/1R-001 bears the original 1976 design and features a very attractive “chocolate” colored dial.

Estimate: CHF220,000-320,000

Patek Philippe steel ‘Nautilus’ Ref. 5712/1A

The present model (from circa 2015) is the cousin of the “5711” collection, released at the same time, under reference 5712/1A, noticeable at first glance with its beautiful moon phase and power-reserve indicator on a blue dial. Equally popular, it is a very chic and sporty model, a showstopper. It has a stainless steel 40mm Nautilus case with a beautiful satin brushed bezel.

Patek Philippe steel 'Nautilus' Ref. 5712-1A

Reference 5712 perfectly symbolises the timeless Nautilus design and its masculine elegance. This very sought-after model was released in October 2006 to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus collection, and to replace reference 3712 in production from 2005 to 2006.

Consigned by a refined collector, the present timepiece is offered in very good overall condition.

Estimate: CHF100,000-200,000.

Audemars Piguet, steel ‘Royal Oak A-series’ with tropical dial, Ref. 5402ST, No. 1690

An iconic model of the Audemars Piguet Manufacture, the Royal Oak “A-series” can be considered one of the most collectible luxury sport timepieces. In fact, the Royal Oak was the first true luxury sports watch.

The present watch is part of the first 2,000 “A-series” Royal Oaks ever created, with the serial number “A 1690”, the 1,690th Royal Oak of the inaugural series. Initially, only 1,000 watches were to be made, an ambitious target for a timepiece which was at the time the most expensive steel sportswatch and did not sell very well. Eventually it became successful, they sold out and production was increased to 2,000.

Audemars Piguet, steel ‘Royal Oak A-series' with tropical dial, Ref. 5402ST

After the “A-series” sold out, they progressed on to the “B” series, “C” series, and so on. The present watch sports an original “A-series” dial, with the AP logo above the 6 o’clock index, and reads “Swiss” below.

With its attractive dial and stainless steel-case of strong proportions, the present watch is an outstanding example of the iconic design that set a milestone in watchmaking history as the initial “sport elegance” watch.

Estimate: CHF60,000-120,000.

Rolex Ref. 1807, Made for Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said of Oman

This 18k yellow gold Rolex Day-Date automatic wristwatch Ref. 1807 was made for Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said of Oman. The late Sultan Gaboos Bin Said al Said ordered several timepieces from Rolex to gift to his close associates, ministers, diplomats, and other senior officials of the Sultanate.

ROLEX, YELLOW GOLD 'DAY-DATE' MADE FOR SULTAN QABOOS BIN SAID AL SAID, REF. 1807

This Ref. 1807 example is one of them. Made in circa 1974, it is particularly attractive for its case and bracelet finish, which is reminiscent of wood bark, as well as its matt black dial, and the Sultan’s name printed in compelling red above the standard “Superlative Chronometer” certification at six o’clock.

Estimate: CHF40,000-60,000.

Auction Summary

  • Auction name: The Geneva Edit
  • Type of auction: Online sale
  • Date: 3 – 17 May 2022
  • Number of lots: 251 lots
  • Total low estimate: CHF 3-6 million
  • Browse lots: Coming soon

 

Christie’s Watches Hong Kong Auction 24 May 2022 – Highlights

Following “The Champion Collection, Part II: Sport Elegance”, held in early April, Christie’s Hong Kong announces The Champion Collection journey with Part III: The Artistry of Complications, a single owner live sale which will be held on 24 May 2022.

The auction will showcase rare treasures such as the Patek Philippe Ref. 5002 along with several references with special-coloured dials, for instance, a Ref. 5970R, Ref. 5020J, Ref. 5050J and Ref. 5059G. Other examples of Haute Horlogerie will be presented from Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Greubel Forsey and Audemars Piguet.

The same day, 24 May, Christie’s Hong Kong will be holding a second live sale, The Important Watches Sale, which will feature selected pieces from The Kairos Collection, the finest collection of Patek Philippe contemporary timepieces ever to appear at auction.

The selection presented under the Important Watches comprises 30 lots, including the Grandes Complications Ref. 5951P-012 and Ref. 5078R-001.

Among the other most extraordinary timepieces to be presented during this sale: a Patek Philippe Ref. 605HU and a Ref. 1415J, two Lange & Söhne 20th Anniversary Sets, a collection of 10 stunning timepieces by F.P. Journe, as well as limited editions by Maximilian Büsser & Friends LM.

(1) The Champion Collection Part III: The Artistry of Complications

Comprising almost 450 modern and contemporary significant and iconic timepieces by all the major watch brands, this marvellous collection was formed over nearly 20 years by a prominent private collector. The marques represented in The Champion Collection include Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Rolex, Panerai, IWC and Vacheron Constantin.

Christie’s Hong Kong, working closely with the collector, curated the vast array of exceptional timepieces into 6 thematically distinct sales over a period of 12 months. The cycle was off to a flying start last November with The Champion Collection, Part I achieving HK$121 million.

Part II: Sport Elegance opened the 2022 season in Hong Kong with a stunning collection of iconic ‘sport chic’ watches, 120 lots that realised a total of HK$26 million (EUR 3 Millions).

The upcoming Part III: The Artistry of Complications will bookend the first half of the year on 24 May 2022, with 73 lots and a total low estimate set at HK$80 million (EUR 9.5 Millions).

The epic watch sale series will continue to unfold in the second half of 2022, with The Champion Collection, Part IV: The Panerai Encyclopedia – Chapter I comprising 85 Panerai timepieces, and The Champion Collection, Part V: The Panerai Encyclopedia – Final Chapter with a further 83 highly sought-after Panerais coming to auction online.

Concluding the year will be a single owner live sale presenting the series finale, The Champion Collection, Part VI: The Finest Watchmaking, led by 83 timepieces, among which stunning Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin enamel watches.

The top of The Artistry of Complications

Lot 2273 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon

Only 7 pieces of this magnificent and highly complicated 18k pink gold double-dial wristwatch are known to exist. With two dials and twelve complications, including a cathédrale minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar with retrograde date, moon age and angular motion, sidereal time and sky chart.

This exceptional rose gold reference 5002R is one of the rarest versions as a total of only 25 pieces were made – in comparison with 40 pieces each in yellow gold and platinum. To date, only five other examples of the rose gold Sky Moon Tourbillon have returned to the market. Produced between 2001 and 2012 (the rose gold version was introduced in 2002), its technical complexity and brilliance caused a sensation.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon
Lot 2273: Patek Philippe Ref. 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon

This ultra-exclusive Patek Philippe Grande Complication is presented in superlative condition with a full set of accessories and the impeccable provenance of The Champion Collection, one of the world’s greatest.

The reference 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon holds a very special place amongst Patek Philippe’s greatest horological achievements. It was the most complicated wristwatch ever made by the Maison at the time, and available only by invitation and interview to Patek Philippe’s most important clients. Naturally, as one of the world’s most respected collectors and connoisseurs, the owner of The Champion Collection was among the chosen few.

Inspired by the famous ‘Star Calibre 2000’, a double-dialled pocket watch made to commemorate the new Millennium, the Sky Moon Tourbillon has two dials. The first displays mean solar time, retrograde perpetual calendar and phases of the moon. The other side features the sky chart, a map of the night sky in the Northern Hemisphere.

Estimate: HK$10,000,000-20,000,000 – EUR 1.18 Million – CHF 1.22 Million.

Rare Patek Philippe wristwatches with special-coloured dials

Lot 2258 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5970R with black dial

The only known, possibly unique 18k pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, 24-hour and leap year indication with black dial.

Unique versions of arguably Patek Philippe’s most important and symbolic of complications, the perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch, are one of the ultimate ownership goals of collectors worldwide. The present watch is one such elevated timepiece, being the only publicly known reference 5970R-019 – rose gold with a black dial, fully confirmed by the original Certificate of Origin.

Lot 2258 - Patek Philippe Ref. 5970R with black dial
Lot 2258 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5970R with black dial

The rose gold version of the 5970 is usually fitted with a silvered dial, so that the unexpected black dial of this watch with rose gold numerals gives it a dramatic new aesthetic. Furthermore, production of the rose (and white) gold 5970s ceased in 2007 and production of the reference ceased entirely in 2010.

The present watch, sold at the Patek Philippe salon in Geneva to its current owner in 2016, almost a decade after the pink gold version was discontinued, is one of the most significant watches of the reference in private hands.

As Patek Philippe’s unique complicated watches were only ever created for the company’s best clients, the owner of The Champion Collection was favoured with special pieces of the highest exclusivity.

Estimate: HK$1,400,000-2,800,000.

Lot 2256 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5020J with brown dial

The only known and possibly unique exemplar of the 18k gold cushion-shaped perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, 24 hour, leap year indication and brown dial with Breguet numerals.

One of the stand-out Patek Philippe special-order watches that are the jewels in the crown of The Champion Collection, this probably unique reference 5020 with stunning confirmed brown dial and the great exclusivity of its own reference number (5020J-016), can be considered one of the most important examples of the already extremely rare reference 5020 cushion-shaped perpetual calendar chronograph.

Lot 2256 - Patek Philippe Ref. 5020J with brown dial
Lot 2256 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5020J with brown dial

Almost certainly made by special request as an ‘out of series’ piece with its unique brown dial, the highly individual aesthetic of the watch places it among the most desirable of Patek Philippe’s 21st century perpetual calendar chronographs.

The standard production 5020 – manual winding perpetual calendar with chronograph – was introduced in 1994 and discontinued in 2002. The case of the present watch dates from 1994 and its movement, calibre 27 70 Q dates from 2010.

Therefore, the case is from the first year of production, but the movement was made almost 8 years after production of the 5020 ended. Such ‘out of series’ watches were created using pristine old stock cases with movements that are unrelated in date. They were usually made on the specific instructions of Mr. Stern for very special clients, such as the owner of The Champion Collection.

The probably unique brown dial and the fact that this watch was provided with a specific individual reference number confirm its legitimacy as a fully formed model in its own right and as such, an extreme rarity and prize catch for the Patek Philippe collector. Reference 5020 was available in yellow, pink, and white gold, as well as platinum. It is believed that only 750 examples of this reference were ever made in total.

Estimate: HK$1,400,000-2,800,000.

Lot 2247 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5050J with slate grey dial

An extremely rare 18k gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date, leap year indication, moon phases and slate grey dial with Breguet numerals.

With highly appealing and very unusual, grey-coloured dial, this yellow gold reference 5050J-023 is one of the ultra-exclusive ‘London Edition’ series that were created in 2015 at the request of Philippe Stern using new old stock cases and movements.

Lot 2247 - Patek Philippe Ref. 5050J with slate grey dial
Lot 2247 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5050J with slate grey dial

It is thought that a maximum of five pieces were made with a grey dial and were only available to those collectors who were personally known to Mr. Stern. The present watch is probably the only the third example known publicly. Furthermore, it is preserved in like-new condition and is accompanied by the full set of accessories. Such ‘out of series’ late production watches are fascinating to collectors and are among the rarest pieces of the reference.

The standard production 5050 – automatic perpetual calendar with retrograde date, was introduced in 1993 and discontinued in 2002. The case of the present watch dates from 1994 and its movement, calibre 315-136 dates from 2004. Therefore, the case is from the first two years of reference 5050 production and the movement from towards the end of the 5050s successor reference 5059s production (which used the same calibre) and was discontinued in 2006.

Estimate: HK$600,000-1,200,000.

Lot 2251 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5059G with salmon dial

A possibly unique and only known 18k white gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, retrograde date, moon phases, leap year indication and rose dial.

This extraordinary salmon dial reference 5059G-018 is the first example ever to be offered at auction and can be considered one of the most important individual watches of the reference 5059.

It is exceptional not only for its incredibly rare and rich salmon-coloured dial with raised gold Roman numerals, but also as the only known example of any reference 5059 in which the movement bears Patek Philippe’s ‘PP’ certification of excellence mark on its movement instead of the traditional ‘Geneva seal’ found on all other known examples.

Lot 2251 - Patek Philippe Ref. 5059G with salmon dial
Lot 2251 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5059G with salmon dial

According to the foremost Patek Philippe scholars, the present watch is the only known example of reference 5059 with its movement bearing the Patek Philippe of ‘PP’ seal of excellence instead of the earlier ‘Geneva Seal’ stamp.

The Geneva Seal, or Poinçon de Genève, has for many decades been considered the ultimate standard in watchmaking. However, it only controlled the standard of finishing and decoration of the watch movement. Testing for precision was an optional part of achieving the Geneva Seal.

Thus in 2009, Patek Philippe decided to create their own ‘PP Seal’ standard of excellence which covered almost every aspect of the watch, up to and including, the ownership experience. In 2012, the criteria for the Geneva Seal were upgraded in response.

Introduced in 1998, it was the first serially produced perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date to be made by Patek Philippe. It was also the first model since the legendary reference 2497 and 2438-1 to have a sweep centre seconds on a perpetual calendar watch.

The model is distinctive for its officier style case with elongated lugs with screwed bars and hinged back and display cuvette. The movement is the automatic calibre 315 with 21K gold rotor, the fascinating retrograde date function is part of the perpetual calendar mechanism whereby at the end of each month the date hand instantly ‘flies’ back to 1.

Estimate: HK$600,000-1,200,000.

Marvels of Haute Horlogerie

Lot 2212 – Vacheron Constantin. An extremely rare and exceptional limited edition platinum skeletonised minute repeating wristwatch.

Lot 2212 - Vacheron Constantin limited edition platinum skeletonised minute repeating wristwatch
Lot 2212 – Vacheron Constantin limited edition platinum skeletonised minute repeating wristwatch

Limited to 15 pieces, this is No.1. Circa 2006. Estimate: HK$1,000,000-2,000,000.

Lot 2216 – A very rare and impressive Jaeger-LeCoultre platinum semi-skeletonised spherical tourbillon wristwatch with 24 hour display and power reserve, and Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 model.