After a long and rigorous search for a successor to the tried and trusted ETA 2824-2, Swiss watch brand Ollech & Wajs has announced a new partnership with Swiss movement manufacturer Soprod.
Located in the Swiss Jura, just a few minutes away from OW’s historic workshop, Soprod have been developing and manufacturing high-quality mechanical movements since 1966.
In 2020 Soprod unveiled the ‘Newton P092’, a new in-house developed automatic calibre. The movement is characterised by a full-balance bridge supporting the exposed balance at 6:00, which, in conjunction with the double-cone Incabloc® shock absorber provides increased protection for the balance itself. It has 23 jewels and an impressive 44-hour power reserve.
The Soprod Newton P092 movement is independently tested for dependability and durability at the internationally renowned Laboratoire Dubois in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. It undergoes several trials, including an accelerated ageing cycle designed to simulate the effects of a watch worn on the wrist. The procedure involves extreme temperature variations, and 20,000 indirect impact shocks of varying severity. Only movements that pass all the tests are awarded the Chronofiable® certification.
Furthermore, the movement was subjected to OW’s own stringent testing program. Of the nine movements evaluated, from eight different Swiss manufacturers, the Soprod Newton outperformed them all.
Then followed a period of close collaboration between OW and Soprod, to develop a bespoke version of the Newton P092, modified to OW’s own specifications and adjusted in five positions.
Ollech & Wajs opted for a simple, Brutalist finish, in accordance with OW’s rugged aesthetics. ‘O&W 1956’ is engraved into the nickel-plated gear train bridge, over which sits a co-designed, custom rotor in the shape of the OW marque.
The inimitable new movement will carry OW’s own ‘PRECISION’ rating, reserved for movements of only the highest quality.
The first Soprod-powered OW watches will be available later this year.
Movement specifications
Caliber: Soprod Newton P092
Type: Automatic
Dimensions: 25.60 mm diameter; 4.60 mm height
Date-only calendar, with semi-instantaneous changes and quick adjustment using the crown, stop-seconds, and 4Hz 28,800 vibrations per hour
23 jewels; 44-hour power reserve
Average accuracy: +/-7 seconds per day, adjusted in five positions (equivalent of ETA Elabore)
The Swiss movement Manufacture SOPROD has announced the introduction of Newton®, an affordable and 100% Swiss Made self-winding mechanical watch movement. The first examples of this 100% Jura calibre have rolled off the production lines, their reliability has been successfully tested and they are ready to be delivered to the renowned Swiss brands who ordered them.
Since 2008, SOPROD has been part of the Festina industrial group which, through its various companies, masters the essential components for the complete manufacture of mechanisms from mechanical calibres to quartz connected movements. At the heart of its six Swiss production sites, the entirely independent Manufacture produces all its components including its assortments – escape-wheels, pallets and rollers – as well balances and even balance springs -, while its entity in the French Jura region produces mainplates only. SOPROD is thus offering a 100% Jura calibre, at a competitive price, in perfect harmony with the origin of its components.
The challenge for Jura engineers, watchmakers, developers, movement makers and micro-mechanical engineers was ambitious: to develop, fine tune, industrially produce and ensure the reliability a new, simple and contemporary mechanical movement. After three years of hard work, the teams at SOPROD have succeeded and the Newton® movement has come of age. It can now be offered to Swiss watch brands looking for a reliable, high-performance, aesthetically pleasing ‘engine’ that can be customised in accordance with each company’s requirements.
SOPROD is offering an industrial calibre that is resolutely reliability driven. To guarantee this decisive point in the development of a new ‘engine’ even in the event of shocks or vibrations, Newton® has the best shock absorber, the double-cone Incabloc®, while the cross-through bridge provides increased protection for the balance itself. Finally, to provide ultimate confirmation of its dependability, this Newton® movement has been tested by the Dubois Laboratory and earned the Chronofable® Certificate, involving a battery of tests covering accelerated ageing cycles, shocks of all kinds and resistance to magnetic fields.
The design of the bridges was to be particularly pared-back, in order to create a contemporary overall look. Contrary to competing calibres, the aim was to magnify the balance, ensuring 360° visibility. This aesthetic choice implied aiming for a movement that is as symmetrical as possible along the 6 o’clock-12 o’clock axis. To ensure that the heart of the movement takes pride of place, the balance is elegantly positioned at 6 o’clock, an infinite source of inspiration for brands that will opt to create «Open Heart» models.
Representing a rare phenomenon among Swiss movement manufacturers, SOPROD is also totally independent in terms of its sourcing of assortments (escape-wheels, pallets and rollers), balances and balance springs – to mention only the most sensitive elements. These are manufactured by MSE (Manufacture de spiraux et d’échappements), an entity of the group, based in Muriaux in the Franches-Montagnes. Thanks to the high quality of its components, the SOPROD collection of M100 movements and variations achieves a success rate of 90 to 95% at first attempt in the chronometer certification process.
Technical details
Swiss made
Newton® by SOPROD
Sold in two qualities of adjustment:
1. Sophisticated: R7 = 7 sec/day +/- 7 in 3 positions
2. Top-flight: -R4 = 4 sec/day +/-4 in 5 positions
11 ½ ’’’ – Diameter 25.60 mm. Height 4.60 mm.
Hours, minutes, central seconds
Semi-instantaneous aperture-type calendar, display
Fast calendar adjustment
Time-setting with stop-seconds device
Automatic rewinding
28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
23 jewels
44-hour power reserve
The independent Swiss watch brand NORQAIN has announced a new partnership with mechanical movement manufacturer, Kenissi. The announcement of the long-term collaboration between the Biel-based watchmaker and Kenissi, founded by watch brand Tudor, underscores NORQAIN’s commitment to offering quality timepieces that feature robust, high-performance movements ready for a lifetime of adventure.
As part of the new strategic partnership, NORQAIN is climbing to new heights with two chronometer-certified Manufacture Calibres. The three-hand NN20/1 and GMT NN20/2 calibres, both featuring a 70-hour power reserve, will enhance NORQAIN’s existing collections and will be ready to equip fans on their adventures starting this coming summer.
Calibre Three-hand NN20/1 by NORQAIN and Kenissi – Rear side
Discussions between the two entities began shortly after NORQAIN was founded in 2018 and more interesting projects are planned for the future.
Calibre Three-hand NN20/1 by NORQAIN and Kenissi – Dial side
Based in Biel, NORQAIN has strong ties to the world of watchmaking. Ben Küffer, the 32-year-old founder and CEO, was born into the industry and already has 12 years of experience in the world of watchmaking.
The board of directors also includes Ben’s father, Marc Küffer, former owner of the Swiss luxury watch producer Roventa-Henex and member of the Board of Directors of the Swiss Watch Industry for more than two decades; Ted Schneider, also born into the industry as a member of the family that owned Breitling for nearly 40 years; and Mark Streit, former Swiss NHL star and 2017 Stanley Cup winner. This team leads the company with remarkable industry insight, valuable know-how and a huge passion for the Swiss watch industry.
NORQAIN has always been dedicated to creating timepieces that inspire wearers to live their life their way. The two robust and high-precision movements – three-hand calibre NN20/1 and GMT calibre NN20/2– build on the brand’s existing collections. Both COSC-certified movements are “weekend-proof” with an impressive 70-hour power reserve and their sturdy construction featuring a traversing bridge with two-point fixation ensures the timekeeping performance will not be hindered by powerful activity.
Calibre GMT NN20/2 by NORQAIN and Kenissi – Rear side
The GMT movement in particular boasts a jumping hour feature to easily set the local time and change the date forward or backward at any time of the day. Whether the wearer is climbing a new summit or enjoying the hike on the way down, the Manufacture Calibres are primed for outdoor adventure and everyday functionality.
Calibre GMT NN20/2 by NORQAIN and Kenissi – Dial side
Affirming the exclusivity of these movements are the unique NORQAIN decorations visible through the transparent caseback such as the golden “double-N” NORQAIN logo, symbolising the Swiss Alps, on the oscillating weight and “Adventure – Freedom – Independence”, the brand’s core values and NORQAIN collection names, engraved on the bridge.
The novelties that will house these exclusive Manufacture Calibres will be presented at an event hosted by NORQAIN in Zermatt this June. The timepieces will be part of NORQAIN’s standard collections, complementing the existing pieces in all the three lines: Adventure, Freedom and Independence. As with the timepieces that make up the brand’s current collections, the new models will also feature customisable details such as the acclaimed NORQAIN plate and strap options.
The launch of two Manufacture Calibres and the strategic partnership with Kenissi is an example of NORQAIN putting its values of innovation and quality and its daring spirit into action, and more announcements can be expected as a result of their long-term collaboration.
Technical details
The NORQAIN Calibres NN20/1 and NN20/2 created in partnership witj Kenissi have been designed and thoroughly tested for ultimate robustness and reliability. This is exemplified by the traversing balance bridge with a two-point fixation which improves shock resistance and allows precise positioning of the oscillator. Both movements offer an impressive 70-hour power reserve.
The Calibre NN20/2 offers an integrated GMT function with a jumping hour feature that allows the wearer to easily set the local time and change the date forward or backward at any time of the day. Both calibres are certified as chronometers by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
Calibre Three-hand NN20/1
Central hour, minutes and seconds hands
Frequency: 4 Hz
Automatic winding
26.0 mm diameter
27 jewels
COSC-certified
70-hour power reserve
Tungsten monoblock oscillating weight
Traversing balance bridge with a two-point fixation improving shock resistance and allowing precise positioning of the oscillator
Calibre GMT NN20/2
Central hour, minutes, seconds and 24- hour hands
Date window
Automatic winding
4 Hz
31.8 mm diameter
28 jewels
COSC-certified
70-hour power reserve
Tungsten monoblock oscillating weight
Jumping hour feature to easily set the local time and change the date forward or backward at any time of the day
Traversing balance bridge with a two-point fixation improving shock resistance and allowing precise positioning of the oscillator
The Fleurier-based mechanical watch movement maker Vaucher is launching two new designs of its flagship ultra-thin, micro-rotor caliber, the Seed VMF 5401. Contemporary or classic, VMF presents two movements based on the same architecture. The company thus extends its range with this new, attractive offer. And through its Open R & D Department, it is now setting out on a mission to share its unique know-how and creativity in the realization of yet more original modules.
By putting its customization know-how into creating movement variants for smaller brands, VMF now offers a wider choice of visually appealing combinations to better match a watch’s intended design and style.
VMF’s numerous value propositions range from exclusive development of new movements, to the implementation of different levels of customization of the same movement architecture. This means its customers can rely on the comprehensive know-how, reliable products and high-end aesthetics that are the base elements of its reputation. Through the Open R & D Department, VMF opens up the creativity and skills of its technical office and watch laboratory for the development of original and tailor-made solutions. The originality of the Open R & D offer lies in its ability to offer innovative mechanisms to meet the specific needs of its customers
Ultra-thin micro-rotor calibers
The Seed VMF 5401 caliber is an ultra-thin, 2.6mm micro-rotor. This caliber with its potential for extreme personalization figures in, for example, prestigious collections by Hermès, Parmigiani and Richard Mille.
The Seed VMF 5401/32 variant offers lines and finishes from the pure tradition of Haute Horlogerie. It is intended for classic high-end models.
The Seed VMF 5401/33 variant takes on a contemporary look through new decoration technologies, with laser relief engraving combined with geometric skeletonization. Its modernity is also expressed by the anthracite color produced by galvanic treatment.
With Open R&D, Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier (VMF) positions itself as a creative center and full partner – without parallel in the Swiss watch industry – in mechanism, movement and watch development projects.
The aim of Open R&D is to establish itself as a one-stop-shop offering complete and tailor-made solutions, from the creation of original and innovative concepts (mechanisms, movements and / or watches) to their production – all in full conformity with the rigorous reliability, quality and production criteria that have made Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier’s Haute Horlogerie movements world-famous.
Technical details
SEED VMF 5401/32: Automatic Extra-Thin Micro-Rotor 2 Or 3 Hands
Fitting diameter: 30 mm (13 ¼’’’)
Depth: 2.6 mm
Indications and functions: Hour, minute, small seconds at 6h
Type of balance: Variable inertia with gold inertia-blocks
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 V/h)
Type of stud holder: Mobile
Type of balance-spring: Flat
Type of oscillating weight: Off-centre; Gilded tungsten micro-rotor
Oscillating weight winding direction: Single direction in anti-clockwise sense of the weight viewing from the dial side
Power reserve: 48 hours
Chronometry: Variable inertia balance; Rapid rotation barrel
Number of components: 160
Number of jewels: 29
Specific features and finishes
• Classic aesthetics
• Circular-grained plate on dial side and bridge side, fine circular-graining under balance, rhodium-plated
• Bridges with Côtes de Genève decor, rhodium-plated
• Bicolour engraving
• Bevels and apertures diamond-polished
• Ceramic ball-bearing
• Wheels circular-grained on 2 faces
• Flat-head screws, polished
• Bridges hand-bevelled with piercer
• Pivots and flanges rolled
SEED VMF 5401/33: Automatic Extra-Thin Micro-Rotor 2 Or 3 Hands
Fitting diameter: 30 mm (13 ¼’’’)
Depth: 2.6 mm
Indications and functions: Hour, minute, small seconds at 6h
Type of balance: Variable inertia with gold inertia-blocks
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 V/h)
Type of stud holder: Mobile
Type of balance-spring: Flat
Type of oscillating weight: Off-centre; Tungsten micro-rotor
Oscillating weight winding direction: Single direction in anti-clockwise sense of the weight viewing from the dial side
Power reserve: 48 hours
Chronometry: Variable inertia balance; Rapid rotation barrel
Number of components: 160
Number of jewels: 29
Specific features and finishes
• Contemporary aesthetics
• Circular-grained plate on dial side and bridge side, fine circular-graining under balance, rhodium-plated
• Bridges sunray finish, with laser decoration sand-blasting effect, relief engravings and NAC treatment
• Bevels and apertures diamond-polished
• Ceramic ball-bearing
• Wheels circular-grained on 2 faces
• Flat-head screws, polished
• Bridges hand-bevelled with piercer
• Pivots and flanges rolled
SEED VMF 5400/32: Automatic Extra-Thin Micro-Rotor 2 Or 3 Hands with Date
Fitting diameter: 30 mm (13 ¼’’’)
Depth: 3 mm
Indications and functions: Hour, minute, small seconds at 6h, date in a window at 3h or 6h
Type of balance: Variable inertia with gold inertia-blocks
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 V/h)
Type of stud holder: Mobile
Type of balance-spring: Flat
Type of oscillating weight: Off-centre; Gilded tungsten micro-rotor
Oscillating weight winding direction: Single direction in anti-clockwise sense of the weight viewing from the dial side
Power reserve: 48 hours
Chronometry: Variable inertia balance; Rapid rotation barrel
Number of components: 176
Number of jewels: 29
Specific features and finishes
• Classic aesthetics
• Circular-grained plate on dial side and bridge side, fine circular-graining under balance, rhodium-plated
• Bridges with Côtes de Genève decor, rhodium-plated
• Bicolour engravings
• Bevels and apertures diamond-polished
• Ceramic ball-bearing
• Wheels circular-grained on 2 faces
• Flat-head screws, polished
• Bridges hand-bevelled with piercer
• Pivots and flanges rolled
SEED VMF 5400/33: Automatic Extra-Thin Micro-Rotor 2 Or 3 Hands with Date
Fitting diameter: 30 mm (13 ¼’’’)
Depth: 3 mm
Indications and functions: Hour, minute, small seconds at 6h, date in a window at 3h or 6h
Type of balance: Variable inertia with gold inertia-blocks
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 V/h)
Type of stud holder: Mobile
Type of balance-spring: Flat
Type of oscillating weight: Off-centre; Tungsten micro-rotor
Oscillating weight winding direction: Single direction in anti-clockwise sense of the weight viewing from the dial side
Power reserve: 48 hours
Chronometry: Variable inertia balance; Rapid rotation barrel
Number of components: 176
Number of jewels: 29
Specific features and finishes
• Contemporary aesthetics
• Circular-grained plate on dial side and bridge side, fine circular-graining under balance, rhodium-plated
• Bridges sunray finish, with laser decoration sand-blasting effect, relief engravings and NAC treatment
• Bevels and apertures diamond-polished
• Ceramic ball-bearing
• Wheels circular-grained on 2 faces
• Flat-head screws, polished
• Bridges hand-bevelled with piercer
• Pivots and flanges rolled
Switzerland based high-end mechanical movement manufacturer Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier (VMF) presents a new extra-thin tourbillon with automatic winding.
Drawing on the company’s expertise in crafting extra-thin movements, the Seed VMF 5440 is just 3.4 mm thick. Its robust and sophisticated construction incorporates all the advantages of the tried-and-tested VMF extra-thin calibers. It is wound by a micro-rotor, cleverly integrated into the movement so as to maintain its slim profile.
Deviating from previous designs, the tourbillon is purposefully located at about 7o’clock, clearly distinguishing it from existing VMF Tourbillon movements – the tourbillon of the automatic Seed VMF 3024 and extra-thin hand-wound Seed VMF 5430 are positioned at 6 and 9 o’clock respectively.
To provide an unhindered view of the mechanical ballet taking place, Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier has opted for a flying tourbillon. Mounted on a ceramic ball bearing, the tourbillon cage is made of light-weight titanium for reduced energy consumption and optimal adjustment. The upper part of the cage is made of steel. The tourbillon and cage comprise 67 components for an overall weight of just 0.27 grams.
Like all VMF movements, the Seed VMF 5440 is meticulously finished. Its bridges are laser-engraved with the motif of the gears hidden beneath their surface, showcasing Vaucher’s expertise in laser engraving, marking and machining. The movement finish can of course be adapted to the specifications of each client, offering a high-level of customisability.
The Seed VMF 5440 is available in short series and can be personalized with different options (bridges, cage, micro-rotor, finishing).
Technical details
CALIBRE SEED VMF 5440
Extra-thin flying tourbillon with automatic winding
Diameter: 30.5 mm( 13.5’’’)
Height: 3.4 mm
Jewels: 33
Power reserve: 48 hours, rapid rotation barrel
Winding rotor: tungsten off-center micro-rotor mounted on ceramic ball bearings, uni-directional winding
Frequency: 21.600 vib/h 3 Hz
Tourbillon cage: 11.11 mm x 3.37 mm • 67 components • 0.27 gram
Balance variable inertia with gold inertia blocks
Balance spring flat
Stud holder mobile
Functions: hours, minutes, one-minute flying tourbillon
Parts: 200
Specific Features and Finishes
• Bottom plate circular-grained on dial side and bridge side, fine circular-graining below the wheels, rhodium-plated
• Bridges with personalized decor, rhodium-plated
• Bi-colour engraving
• Bevels, countersinks and apertures diamond-polished
• Ceramic ball-bearings
• Circular-grained wheels on 2 faces
• Flat head screws, locked
• Pivots and flanges rolled
• Balance visible on dial side
• Titanium tourbillon cage
The horology experts and connoisseurs across the world are familiar with Landeron, the legendary brand name of Swiss made mechanical watch movements. Founded in 1870s, the Le Landeron based watch and movement manufacturer was once a leading producer of mechanical calibers, especially column wheel and cam actuated chronograph movements.
Now, Depa Swiss Movements, a new company established by Kaiseraugst based Depa Luxury Distribution GmbH, has began to produce Swiss mechanical watch movements under the Landeron brand name. In their latest catalogue, Depa Swiss Movements Company has displayed their latest mechanical hand-winding, self-winding and chronograph calibers.
From hand winding category, the caliber Landeron 21 (11 1/2′”) is a 17 jewels movement with a frequency of 28,800 vph and power reserve of 36 hours.
This movement features a central three hands lay out and date at 3ó clock. The Landeron 97 (16 1/2´´´) is a manual winding 17 jewels movement with 40 hours power reserve and beats at 21,600 vph. The movement comes with central hour and minute hands and small seconds at 6h. It features Côtes de Genève finishing. The Landeron 98 manual wound calibre features all specifications of caliber 97 except the positioning of small seconds.
The Calibre 98 features small seconds dial at 9ó clock. Under manual wound caliber range, you can also find the Landeron 3/4 Bridge hand winding movement with 17 jewels 40 hours power reserve, 21,600 vph. This 16 1/2´´´ movement features central hour and minute hands, small seconds at 9’o clock and Guilloche decorations.
From automatic (self-winding) category, the Landeron 24 caliber is a 28, 800 vph, 25/26/27 jewels movement with 40 hours of power reserve. Decorated with perlage technique, this movement is available in different variations as follows:-
25 jewels, date at 3ó clock, centre seconds
25 jewels, date at 3ó clock, small second versions at 6ó clock
27 jewels, date at 3ó clock, centre seconds, power reserve at 6ó clock
27 jewels, big date at 12ó clock, centre seconds, power reserve at 6ó clock
27 jewels, date at 3ó clock, 3 small seconds at 6ó clock moon phase at 12ó clock
26 jewels, date at 3ó clock, centre seconds, 24 hours dial layout
26 jewels, LANDERON 24 GMT, date at 3ó clock, centre seconds, GMT hand
The Landeron 36 self winding caliber features 25 jewels and beats at 28,800 vph. This 11 1/2′”movement has 40 hours of power reserve and features centre seconds, day-date function at 3ó clock and perlage decoration.
In the self-winding chronograph category, presently two calibers are available: Landeron 73 & Landeron 77. Both the movements share almost same technical features – 13 1/4´´´, 27 jewels, 48 hours power reserve and 28,800 vph. In addition to chronograph functions, the Landeron caliber 73 comes with date window at 4 ó clock where as the caliber 77 features day-date function at 3 ó clock.
German watch manufacture NOMOS Glashütte has created the second neomatik movement, the Caliber DUW 6101, a self-winding mechanical watch movement equipped with quick and easy to set date complication.
With a diameter of 35.2 millimeters this new movement is not only very large, but at a mere3.6 millimeters in height it is extraordinarily flat too, since this movement was completely reconstructed to integrate the date. The DUW 6101 caliber consists of 188 parts and comes loaded with several innovative features.
The date on watches with this caliber is located at the edge of the dial. This is unique for timepieces with a diameter beyond 40 millimeters.
The new caliber facilitates a particularly large, legible date. The date ring was set around the DUW 6101 movement, which afforded the maximum possible freedom in terms of the design of these new watches; for a highly individual and harmonious timepiece aesthetic. Each watch has its own date ring design.
The new NOMOS date mechanism is quick and easy to set—in both directions: A few turns of the crown is all that is required to change the date. Despite the limited movement height, this was made possible by a specially shaped gear wheel, which connects with the date disk.
High precision is also ensured by the NOMOS swing system, the proprietary escapement recognizable by the tempered blue balance spring.
The gold-plated lettering on the rotor is embossed; and the words “reguliert in 6 Lagen” (regulated in 6 positions) are engraved in two colors on the bottom plate. This NOMOS caliber is lavishly polished and decorated following the great traditions of classic Glashütte watchmaking.
The process of patenting this caliber is underway. For now, four NOMOS models are equipped with this neomatik date technology: Tangente neomatik 41 Update, Orion neomatik 41 date, Ludwig neomatik 41 date, and Autobahn. All are available from spring 2018.
The Swiss manufacture specialized in the production of high-end mechanical movements on an industrial scale, Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier (VMF) adds a new caliber to its wide range of movements, unveiling a high-performance integrated column-wheel chronograph, the Seed VMF 6710.
A masterpiece of engineering and micromechanics, the caliber 6710 is the result of 6 years of development. It incorporates the best practices from existing chronographs and introduces several innovations for optimal efficiency, reliability, precision and robustness. Its design combines high-frequency, a column-wheel command, a vertical clutch and a triple return-to-zero hammer.
The Seed VMF 6710 balance wheel beats with a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour (5 Hz) enabling it to offer chronometer-certified tenth of a second precision. The 4 adjustment blocks allow high-precision regulating. The full balance bridge with twin supports offers improved stability and shock resistance.
Although it operates at high-frequency, the caliber 6710 can store up to 65 hours of power reserve. The rapid rotation barrel is wound automatically by a 22 ct gold central rotor mounted on ceramic ball bearings. The automatic mechanism is integrated within the movement height, resulting in a compact construction measuring just under 7 mm thick.
A stand-out due to its high-end construction, the caliber 6710 features a column-wheel to command and coordinate the start and stop. The vertical-coupling of the chronograph allows for an instantaneous start, eliminating the jump of the second hands often seen with a lateral clutch when the gears mesh. The clutch is off-centered and drives the chronograph seconds and minutes. To enhance efficiency, the chronograph hours are powered directly by the barrel.
A simple, efficient and reliable solution, a one-piece reset hammer slides across the mechanism to simultaneously reset the chronograph hours, minutes and seconds, contacting the respective heart cams. Like all Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier movements, the Seed VMF 6710 chronograph is meticulously finished in the purest tradition of Haute Horlogerie. Its sophisticated design is heightened by materials of exceptional quality.
It is available in short series and can be personalized with different options. The list of additional functions includes manual winding, a large date and a split-seconds mechanism.
Technical details
CALIBRE SEED VMF 6710
Integrated column-wheel chronograph with automatic winding
Diameter: 30.00 • 13 ¼’’’
Height: 6.95 mm
Jewels: 42
Power reserve: 65 hours, rapid rotation barrel
Winding rotor: 22 ct gold central rotor mounted on ceramic ball bearings, bi-directional winding
Frequency: 36,000 vib/h 5 Hz
Balance: variable inertia with 4 inertia blocks
Balance spring: flat
Stud holder mobile
Coupling vertical clutch
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date with semi-instant jump, chronograph with center seconds, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter. Stop seconds.
Parts 315
Certification: COSC
Under Kudoke label, Stefan Kudoke has been manufacturing extravagant skeleton watches with elaborate engravings exclusively by hand since more than 10 years.
KudOktopus, his most famous model, is iconic amongst watch collectors worldwide by now. During the last years he concentrated on perfecting the art of hand-skeletonizing. Now Stefan Kudoke presents his own manufacture movement.
Christened Kaliber 1, the new manufacture movement developed by Kudoke is inspired by the designs of historical English pocket watches and its mechanisms.
Inspiration: Movement of an English Pocket watch
In the past, intensive co-operations between German and English watchmaking existed after all. It was the German diplomat and astronomer Hans Moritz von Brühl, who supported English precision watchmaking (for example by patronizing Thomas Mudge) and finally bringing it to Saxony and Dresden. By doing so he set an important milestone for the still famous Saxon watchmaking. With this new watch caliber Stefan Kudoke pays tribute to the watch making tradition of Saxony and honors the old masters.
Based on the watch movement Kaliber 1 KUDOKE is going to come up with a new line of models extending the range of „art watches“ and at the same time keeping his typical signature of handcraft perfection and artistic creativity.
Also with his first own movement Stefan Kudoke sets great value upon the refinement of the watch components by hand. Be it the polishing of edges at bridges or steel parts, the engravings or the surface treatment of the wheel bridge using a special reaming technology – all steps during the finishing process are carried out by hand exclusively.
The new movement Kaliber 1 and a first watch model equipped with it will be launched by Stefan Kudoke during Baselworld 2018.
Technical Facts
KUDOKE Kaliber 1
• Diameter 30 mm; Height 4.3 mm
• Indication of hours, minutes, small second at 9 o’clock
• 28.800 half-oscillations/hour (4Hz)
• Manual winding movement with 46 hours power reserve
• Fine adjustment with tangent screws
• Amagnetic escapement with Carl-Haas balance spring in Chronometer quality
• KIF-shock protection
• 18 jewels
• Finish by hand with polished edges, decorative grindings etc.
• Special reaming technology to finish the surface of the wheel bridge (by hand)
• Hand engraved balance cock
• Screwed small plate with hand engraved KUDOKE Logo
Presented in 2017, the Seed VMF 5401/190 caliber by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier is an automatic micro-rotor extra-thin skeleton movement featuring 2 hands layout and moon phases display. This self-winding mechanical movement features 29 jewels, 48 hours of power reserve and off-centre Tungsten micro-rotor oscillating weight.
Features
Fitting diameter: 30 mm (13 ¼’’’)
Depth: 3.57 mm
Indications and functions: Hour, minute, moon phases
Type of balance: Variable inertia with gold inertia-blocks
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 A/h)
Type of stud holder: Mobile
Type of balance spring: Flat
Type of oscillating weight: Off-centre Tungsten micro-rotor
Oscillating weight winding direction: Single direction in anti-clockwise sense of the weight viewing from the dial side
Power-reserve: 48 hours
Variable inertia balance
Rapid rotation barrel
Number of components: 179
Number of jewels: 29
Specific features and finishes
• Plate satin-finished and rhodium plated on dial side, skeleton
• Bridges satin-finished and rhodium-plated, skeleton, hand-finishing
• Bicolour engraving
• Bevels and apertures diamond-polished
• Ceramic ball-bearing
• Wheels circular-grained on 2 faces
• Flat-head screws, locked
• Pivots and flanges rolled
Introduced in 2017, the Seed VMF 5401/180 calibre by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier is a slender and robust mechanical self-winding skeleton caliber measuring 2.6mm thickens and equipped with micro-rotor. Skeleton option types upon request.
Features
Fitting diameter 30 mm (13 ¼’’’)
Depth 2.6 mm
Indications and functions: Hour, minute
Type of balance: Variable inertia with gold inertia-blocks
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 A/h)
Type of stud holder: Mobile
Type of balance spring: Flat
Type of oscillating weight: Off-centre Tungsten micro-rotor
Oscillating weight winding direction: Single direction in anti-clockwise sense of the weight viewing from the dial side
Power-reserve: 48 hours
Variable inertia balance
Rapid rotation barrel
Number of components: 160
Number of jewels: 29
Specific features and finishes
• Plate satin-finished and rhodium-plated on dial side, skeleton
• Bridges satin-finished and rhodium-plated, skeleton, hand-fnishing
• Bicolour engraving
• Bevels and apertures diamond-polished
• Ceramic ball-bearing
• Wheels circular-grained on 2 faces
• Flat-head screws, locked
• Pivots and flanges rolled
Exhibiting at the EPHJ from 14 to 17 June, Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier presents three new variants of its basic movement range coupled with a large date. In doing so it accentuates the originality and exclusivity of its products, particularly for the flying tourbillon.
This “Large Date” mechanism uses two display discs. The first shows tens (0-1-2-3) while the second indicates units (from 0 to 9). Daily displacement of the discs is programmed mechanically to ensure that they remain perfectly synchronized at all times. Reading the date is simplicity itself, since the two appropriate numerals appear each day side by side in the extra-large aperture on the dial.
Three of the manufacture’s flagship calibres are available in this “Large Date” variant:
The Seed VMF 5401micro-rotor extra-thin movement,
The Seed VMF 3022 movement and
The Seed VMF 3024 Flying Tourbillon
Seed VMF 3022 movement with large date
The technical sophistication of this “Large Date”at 12 o’clock makes it very easy to read on the dial. It creates a stylish balance with the display of the small-seconds at 6 o’clock. On the Seed VMF 3024 movement, this layout is showcased to even greater effect thanks to the majestic flying tourbillon.
Seed VMF 3024 Flying Tourbillon with large date
Each of these movements incorporates a 2-position crown (position one for manual winding and position two for time-setting). Each one also has a corrector push-piece allowing rapid adjustment of the “Large Date”.
Seed VMF 5401micro-rotor extra-thin movement with large date
A manufacture devoted to high-end mechanical watch movements, VMF is a motorist par excellence. It manufactures the heart of the watch, a component which itself is comprised of several hundred parts. Vertically integrated in the watchmaking division of Parmigiani Fleurier, it controls and assures complete fabrication of the movement thanks to production tools combining innovation and tradition. VMF is majority owned by the Sandoz Family Foundation and Hermès International. A Parmigiani Fleurier manufacture, partner of Hermès and supplier of movements for prestigious watch brands, it employs 140 staff and trains 12 apprentices. Through its Vaucher Private Label entity, with its sister companies Les Artisans Boîtiers and Quadrance&Habillage, it is a strategic tool for brands wishing to gain a foothold in high-end watchmaking.
Swiss luxury watch manufacture Carl F. Bucherer has unveiled a brand new watch movement developed in-house: the CFB A2000. With this new caliber, which can be used in a variety of models and enables new combinations of features, the watchmaker is paving the way for the future.
Carl F. Bucherer continues to lean on its own innovation drive and is successfully expanding its range of own Manufacture calibers. After years of development, the traditional company from Lucerne is launching the new caliber CFB A2000 in 2016, which was entirely designed and produced in the watchmakers’ own development workshops. This automatic caliber forms the basis of a complete movement series, and is set to drive the future of watchmaking.
This new movement draws its energy from a double-sided self-winding mechanism with a peripherally arranged rotor. Carl F. Bucherer was the first manufacturer to put this design principle into series production with the caliber CFB A1000, consequently adapting the construction design to the new movement series. With its linear design, it is characteristic of Carl F. Bucherer both from an aesthetic and technical viewpoint. The Geneva Stripes adorning the movement’s bridges and balance-cocks are a tribute to Swiss watchmaking tradition.
The fine adjustment of the caliber also highlights the technical craftsmanship involved. In order to maintain consistently high accuracy, the watchmakers at Carl F. Bucherer focused on a completely free breathing balance-spiral that undergoes no change in its effective length. The motion of the watch is calibrated exclusively using pivotable masselottes. These are small weights that sit on the four balance arms and control the inertia of the balance, which oscillates at 4 Hz or 28,800 vibrations per hour. This, in turn, guarantees the movement precise rate stability.
The CFB A2000 is a universally applicable movement. Its basic structure was designed so that it can be incorporated into further future models. Its impressive rotation momentum predestines this automatic movement as a driving force to a wide range of additional functions under progress in the watchmakers own development workshops.
This new movement makes its debut in the new Manero Peripheral. Here, the first member of the new movement family ticks into action with the caliber CFB A2050, providing the following indications: Hours, minutes, small seconds, and the date at 3 o’clock.
Ronda, the independent Swiss manufacturer who produces millions of quartz movements, now also offers mechanical watch movements. Unveiled at Baselworld 2016, the Ronda Mecano R150 is the brand new mechanical movement from the world renowned producer of quartz watch movements.
This automatic caliber – Ronda’s own construction – boasts a very high vertical range of manufacture and is designed for industrial production. The 11 1/2’’’ sized movement features three hands and a date window. Its power reserve amounts to 40 hours.
The Swiss family concern is once again producing mechanical watch movements. This corner stone was put into place at the end of 2011. After Ronda had strongly developed itself in various technologies and established a broad industrial basis, management decided to go back into the mechanical segment. Ronda’s new in-house construction boasts a very high vertical range of manufacture and is designed for industrial production.
The objective was to develop an 111/2’’’ caliber, suitable for the volume market. After more than four years of intensive work, the R150 caliber was introduced at “Baselworld 2016”, an in-house construction with three hands and date. The automatic watch movement is 4.40 mm high, has a power reserve of 40 hours and its production is highly vertically integrated, which ensures both a competitive cost and flawless quality. The launch of the “Mecano” watch movement line is foreseen for the end of the year. It is planned to ramp up production to industrial quantities within the next few years.
This reflects the company’s strategy to be an important and attractive partner for watch brands all over the world – and throughout the coming decades.
It has always been important for the shareholders to protect their company’s independence, in order to be able to enjoy the advantages of a more flexible, medium-sized organization and to remain a progressive and reliable partner. Profits have always been rigorously reinvested, in order to be able to achieve development and growth without needing to borrow capital. Thanks to its financial autonomy and rapid decision-making processes, Ronda is able to adapt promptly to short-term market evolution.
For the past three decades, the family business was managed by its second generation. Production quality continued to improve through the optimization of processes and quality systems. In parallel, expansion into world markets was successfully undertaken, so that today Ronda watch movements are marketed in many timepieces in the medium and upper price segments. Meanwhile, famous global watch brands have become part of the established clientele, appreciating the company’s innovation, quality and customer-orientated service.
Founded in 1946 by William Mosset, RONDA concentrated on the manufacture of components for other suppliers’ mechanical calibers, until it launched its own first mechanical watch movement onto the market in 1961. In the mid-70s, as the new quartz technology transformation swept in, Ronda decided to join this dynamic evolution, which opened the way to a rapidly expanding mass market. Later, as demand for mechanical watch movements continued to decline sharply, the company discontinued its production in this segment at the end of the 80s.
Technical details Movement
Ronda Mecano R150
Mechanical Swiss Made movement, 25 Jewels
Size 11 1/2’’’
Diameter 25.60 mm, Height 4.40 mm
Power reserve 40 hours
3 hands, date
Features
28’800 vibrations per hour; 4 Hz
Automatic winding with ball bearing
Incabloc anti-shock system
Swiss lever escapement
Index system for fine adjustment
Developed by Switzerland based Noosphaire SA in 2014, this mechanical watch movement boasts a new GMT watch complication produced under the Pecqueur Conceptuals label.
Almost two centuries ago, watchmaker Onésiphore Pecqueur created a revolutionary Differential that was to lay the foundations of automotive development. The OP 21/1-15 movement thus represents a return to roots by providing an unprecedented interpretation of this mechanism providing a new take on the time-zone theme. As the key component of this patented horological complication, the differential heralds an exceptional approach to watchmaking, propelling mechanics into a whole new dimension.
The OP 21/1-15 movement with its differential device borrowed from that of watchmaker Onésiphore Pecqueur is a case of going back to roots. After laying the foundations of automotive development, this invention born almost 200 years ago now returns to its historical essence: horology.
While the principle of its differential goes a long way back, Caliber OP 21/1-15 from Pecqueur Conceptuals opens up whole new horizons in dealing with time zones. Rather than providing a 24-hour dual-time display with a central hand, it simultaneously indicates home time and that of an additional time zone on two dials – yet without involving a double mechanism. It also offers a rare and even unique watchmaking feature by displaying the GMT zone of the chosen second time zone.
The basic idea was simple: to perpetuate Pecqueur’s pioneering spirit through an innovative mechanism providing an intuitive dual-time reading, without needing to refer to a reference city nor to know how many hours need to be added to or subtracted from home time. The development team at Centagora was enlisted for this endeavor, because behind this apparent simplicity lies an impressive wealth of technical complexity involving no less than 118 parts including 20 jewels for the patented GMT module alone.
The differential is the core of this innovation. By means of a pinion, it effectively distributes the energy and the base movement information to the dual-time indications – GMT zone and hour display coupled with a day/night indication – via two entry wheels and a single exit wheel. The first of these two entry wheels serves to drive the function, while the second – a star-wheel placed at the base of the differential – enables adjustments in one-hour increments.
In keeping with Pecqueur’s original principle, the differential of the OP 21/1-15 caliber involves a layered construction rather than the flat version typical of classic horological differentials. This specific architecture based on a right-angle drive not only creates a light, airy aesthetic with elegant depth effects, but also offers appreciable functional advantages such as reducing friction and lowering energy consumption.
This remarkably functional patented GMT module enables users to make all adjustments themselves, without the help of a watchmaker. When initializing the watch, a corrector positioned at 10 o’clock on the side of the case serves to set the GMT zone indicator disk in relation to the owner’s place of residence. Using a push-button at 8 o’clock, the second time zone can then be adjusted, with each press corresponding to a one-hour increment. Since the GMT zone indicator disk and the display of the hour are perfectly synchronized, two different adjustment options are available, each of which automatically drives the other. If the user knows the time at a given destination, it can be directly set on the dial at 3 o’clock, while making any potential corrections relating to Daylight Saving Time (known as “summer” time) if it applies to that specific country. If the wearer knows only the GMT zone, the disk between 1 and 2 o’clock can be set and will in turn set the time of the destination. Thanks to the distinctive construction of the Pecqueur differential and contrary to classic GMT complications, the rate of the watch remains unperturbed during such adjustments.
As the key component in this unusual horological complication, the differential heralds an exceptional approach to watchmaking, propelling mechanics into a whole new artistic dimension. Its cleverly layered construction creates subtle depth effects that may be admired from the dial side. Right from the start of the project, the Centagora developers worked in close cooperation with the Peugeot Design Lab in order to define optimal volumes and ensure perfect harmony between the various displays of the future watch.
The differential bridge overlapping the local time subdial occupies a generous area, as if to invite the gaze to plunge into the very heart of the barely perceptible revolutions of this ingenious device. Along the same axis, an aperture reveals the disk indicating the GMT zone of the second time zone, of which the hour appears in an offset subdial at 3 o’clock, also bearing a day/night indicator. Meanwhile, the small seconds hand sweeps steadily around its own display at 6 o’clock.
An authentic mechanical symphony performed by no less than 311 parts, including 48 jewels, self-winding Caliber OP 21/1-15 embodies characteristically Swiss precision, with a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour). Developed on a VMF 3002 base movement, it is equipped with a twin barrel ensuring a comfortable 50-hour power reserve.
Technical details Caliber OP 21/1-15
Mechanical self-winding, Caliber OP 21/1-15 on a VMF 3002 movement, with patented GMT module, 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour), twin barrel, Glucydur balance, flat balance-spring, Incabloc shock absorber, ceramic ball-bearing mechanism, 311 parts, 48 jewels, 37 mm in diameter, 8 mm thick, circular-grained baseplate, bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève, rhodiumed or engraved, beveled finish, circular satin-brushed wheels, 50-hour power reserve
Module
Patented GMT module, developed by Centagora, 118 parts, 20 jewels, 4.3 mm thick
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, dual-time display with day/night indication, GMT zone indicator
Display home time between 10 and 11 o’clock
Dual-time display with day/night indication at 3 o’clock
GMT zone indicator between 1 and 2 o’clock
Small seconds at 6 o’clock
This year Rolex welcomes a new generation self winding calibre to its family of high precision manufacture watch movements. A compelling example of avant-garde watchmaking technology, the brand new Calibre 3255 self-winding mechanical movement is entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex.
Calibre 3255’s criteria for precision in everyday wear are twice as exacting as those for an officially certified chronometer. Its superlative accuracy is tested by Rolex after the movement has been cased, using high-technology equipment and an exclusive methodology that simulates the conditions in which a watch is actually worn. Its power reserve extends to three days (approximately 70 hours), representing an increase of 24 hours (or 50 per cent) compared to that of the previous generation. This means that the watch will easily continue to run over a weekend without needing to be rewound. Calibre 3255 is impervious to magnetic interferences beyond the values encountered in daily life.
The movement’s resistance to shocks and its reliability have been optimized at the level of its overall architecture as well as its individual components, and through the use of high- performance lubricants developed and synthesized in-house. Calibre 3255 offers enhanced convenience of adjustment and winding – faster and more efficient self-winding, distinct easy- to-sense positions on the winding stem, unrestricted calendar correction at any time and very precise time setting.
Calibre 3255 is backed by 14 patents and a number of innovative technological solutions relating not only to component design but also to processes involving new technologies that push back the limits of current production methods. More than 90 per cent of the movement parts have been redesigned and optimized, from those that produce and store energy (self-winding module and mainspring) to the regulating organ responsible for precision (oscillator), the gear train and the escapement. The escapement, which transmits the impulses required to maintain the oscillator’s steady beat, is enhanced by a major innovation patented by Rolex under the name Chronergy.
Rolex engineers devised and patented a new escapement that optimizes the efficiency of the Swiss lever escapement, the standard in Swiss watchmaking, but which has seen only limited technical evolution over the last 50 years. While favoured by watchmakers for its great reliability, the Swiss lever escapement has always suffered from low efficiency, relaying to the oscillator barely more than a third of the energy it receives from the mainspring via the gear train. The result of extensive research, the geometry of the new Rolex Chronergy escapement improves the efficiency of this key component by 15 per cent. Almost half of the increased power reserve of calibre 3255 can be ascribed to the escapement itself. Made of nickel- phosphorus, the Chronergy escapement is, furthermore, insensitive to magnetic interferences.
With this new-generation movement, Rolex sets a new level of chronometric precision with criteria surpassing those of COSC (the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute). Rolex has developed a new methodology and high-technology equipment to test the precision of its Superlative Chronometers with tolerances that are twice as exacting as those for official certification, and under conditions that simulate the wearer’s real-life experience. These exclusive chronometer tests complement the official COSC certification, to which all Rolex movements continue to be submitted systematically, and are carried out not on the movements alone, but on the assembled watches after the movements have been cased. A specific test protocol was designed by Rolex following large-scale statistical studies to determine the actual conditions of daily wear. As a result, the Rolex chronometers equipped with movements tested according to this new methodology demonstrate superlative precision on the wrist.
The exceptional performance of calibre 3255 is the result of years of research and development on horological components by Rolex engineers. It is also made possible by the Manufacture’s in-house expertise, covering all processes involved in movement production. This know-how has pushed back the boundaries of production methods in terms of precision and tolerances, leading to enhanced component quality and performance. For example, through high- precision machining, the thickness of the walls of the barrel has been reduced by 50 per cent, resulting in a more than 10-hour gain in autonomy. The synthetic ruby pallet stones on the new Chronergy escapement’s pallet fork measure a mere 125 microns, 50 per cent less than those of the previous generation. A threefold enhancement in the poise of the oscillator balance wheel was made possible thanks to precision manufacturing. High-technology processes are also used, such as LiGA (micro-manufacturing by electro forming) to produce the paramagnetic pallet fork and escape wheel of the new Chronergy escapement.
Calibre 3255 benefits from new, updated aesthetics, both in the shape and arrangement of the bridges as well as in their meticulous, traditional decoration. The aesthetics have evolved while preserving the characteristic features of Rolex Perpetual movements, such as the red reversing wheels of the self-winding module, the golden yellow sinks, and the traversing balance bridge. Calibre 3255 consequently remains firmly in the aesthetic lineage of Oyster watch movements.
The Oscillator of calibre 3255 is fitted with a blue Parachrom hairspring, patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive alloy of niobium and zirconium. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the Parachrom hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. It is equipped with an optimized Breguet overcoil, enhancing the isochronism of the oscillations in any position. The large balance wheel with variable inertia is fitted with four gold Microstella nuts enabling extremely precise regulating. Its redesigned geometry and the high-precision machining have enhanced the poise threefold. The oscillator is attached to a new balance staff with exclusive geometry offering increased resistance to magnetic interferences. It is fitted on high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers developed and patented by Rolex for increased resistance to shocks. The oscillator is held firmly in place by a traversing balance bridge, further reinforcing shock resistance. The balance bridge features an optimized height-adjustment system and new integrated protection for the balance wheel.
The Chronergy escapement of calibre 3255, developed and patented by Rolex, is an optimized version of the Swiss lever escapement, the standard escapement used in mechanical watches. The Chronergy escapement enhances the Swiss lever escapement’s energy efficiency while preserving the reliability for which it is renowned. In order to develop greater efficiency, Rolex engineers analysed the functioning of the Swiss lever escapement using cutting-edge observation methods and numerical modelling to isolate the parameters that needed modification. Surprisingly, the solution they arrived at ran counter to prevailing horological thinking: the length ratios between the escape wheel teeth and the pallet stones were reversed. While the thickness of the pallet stones has been reduced by half, the contact surfaces of the escape wheel teeth have been doubled.
Moreover, the escapement system is no longer in alignment but slightly offset, affording greater distance between the pallet fork and the balance wheel, thus multiplying the lever effect.The pallet fork and escape wheel are made of nickel-phosphorus to be insensitive to magnetic interferences. The pallet stones are synthetic rubies, as in a conventional escapement. The escape wheel has a cut-out design to make it lighter and reduce its inertia. Together, these modifications to the geometry have increased the efficiency of the escapement by 15 per cent, contributing to almost half of the gain in calibre 3255’s power reserve.
The efficiency of the gear train has been optimized. Rolex has also developed, and synthesizes in-house, exclusive new high performance lubricants with a considerably longer useful life and greater stability over time. Rolex is the only independent watch manufacturer to develop and synthesize its own lubricants.
To increase the capacity of the mainspring in calibre 3255 without increasing the size of the barrel housing it, Rolex decided to optimize the space inside the barrel by reducing the thickness of its walls by half. This solution represented a considerable challenge both for machining and for the production process, pushing back the boundaries of current production methods. The resulting gain in space allowed for the accommodation of a mainspring with greater capacity, thereby increasing the movement’s autonomy by more than 10 hours.
Calibre 3255 is equipped with a self-winding module with a new-generation Perpetual rotor, for more rapid winding of the new high-capacity mainspring. The reversing wheel system enables winding in either direction of the weight rotation. This system has been optimized to reinforce its efficiency whatever the activity of the wearer. The now monobloc oscillating weight has been cut-out to absorb shocks. It is fitted on a ball bearing and is held at its centre by a single screw, thereby facilitating assembly.
The setting interface of calibre 3255 is more ergonomic and user-friendly. The stops marking the positions of the winding crown are distinct and easily sensed. The setting system has been optimized, making for faster day and date adjustment. Time setting is very precise with no play. The calendar can be corrected at any time with no restrictions, thanks to retractable fingers inside the mechanism.
During the prestigious Baselworld watch fair 2015, German watch manufacture NOMOS Glashütte unveiled DUW 3001, an ultra thin self winding calibre produced in house. Measuring a thickness of 3.2 millimetres, this movement is incredibly flat and also extremely accurate.
Nearly all the parts in DUW 3001 are placed between the base plate and the three-quarter plate. The ratchet wheel, for example, is now placed entirely under the three-quarter plate—and so needed to be made flatter than before. To avoid friction between the wafer-thin parts, a special new material was used; it has excellent, low friction properties, is extremely even, and is easy to form and harden.
A further challenge of this miniature work of watchmaking wonder: A flatter mainspring is required for a flatter movement. As it is thinner, it has correspondently less power, which had to be compensated for.
Past years of research into the gear train have helped NOMOS Glashütte to gather enough experience to optimize the gear train—the series of cog wheels and pinions that transfer the energy through a movement—for this exact caliber.
The result is that DUW 3001 is a chronometer-standard, high-quality, and very elegant in house caliber—unique in the watch industry and, thanks to new machines and technologies, also ready for large-scale series production. Of course, just like before, the motor also contains a great deal of craftsmanship, the NOMOS swing system still sets the pace, and the renowned Glashütte characteristics feature: the three-quarter plate, Glashütte ribbing, tempered blue screws, to mention only a few.
The new caliber therefore combines the best watchmaking craftsmanship and high-tech, and stands for both tradition and innovation—just like the research and development department at NOMOS Glashütte where it was created. This is where the first automatic caliber from the watchmaking company was developed; the patented date mechanism and the power reserve indicator—also patented—were designed; as well as the intricate movements for the gold watches Lux and Lambda. The NOMOS swing system, which caused a storm at Baselworld 2014, also originated from this department.
Now the NOMOS watchmakers are on the starting blocks for series production of the new flat automatic calibers, and new watches featuring this movement will be available with retailers as early as fall.
The Seed VMF 3000 and 3002 are two self-winding mechanical watch movements manufactured by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier.
Seed VMF 3000-10 1⁄2’’’: This automatic movement is equipped with twin-barrels and from 2014 a variable inertia balance wheel. This ensures a more stable daily rate and optimum regulating. It is quickly wound. Its 101⁄2’’’ dimension, a rare size on the market, offers much scope for creativity. Minimum order quantity: 25 movements at CHF 990.- apiece.
Seed VMF 3002-1 11 ⁄2’’’: This automatic movement is equipped with twin-barrels and from 2014 a variable inertia balance wheel. This ensures a stable daily rate and facilitates regulating. It is also quickly wound. Minimum order quantity: 25 movements at CHF 990.- apiece.
The Seed VMF 3000 and 3002 calibres can be personalised by their oscillating weight. Available in quantities from 25 to 500 per year, they offer a high level of finishing and decoration.
Features
Fitting-diameter 23.3 mm (101⁄2’’’) or 25.6 mm (111⁄2’’’)
Depth 3.9 mm or 3.7 mm
Frequency 4 Hz (28,800 Bph)
Power reserve 50 hours
Chronometry Twin barrels
Variable-inertia balance from 2014
Indications and function
Hours, minutes, centre seconds or subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock, calendar aperture at 3 o’clock
Finishing
Circular-graining on top and bottom side of main plate, rhodium-plated
Bridges with Geneva Waves, rhodium-plated, colour contrast engraving
Diamond machined chamfers and bevels
Ceramic ball bearing
Burnished pivots (cylinder and shoulder)
Circular-graining on gear-wheels (top and bottom)
Flat polished screws
Swiss watch manufacture IWC Schaffhausen is expanding its expertise in the design and manufacture of its own movements and will establish three new calibre families in the years ahead to complement its movements portfolio. These mechanisms will set new technical and aesthetic standards and underscore the Swiss luxury watch brand’s expertise as a developer and manufacturer of movements.
IWC Schaffhausen In House Movement Calibre 52010
The first of these movements to be launched is the 52000-calibre family, followed by automatic movements in the new 69000- and 42000-calibre families. The company’s aim is to further consolidate its in-house watchmaking expertise.
The new movements developed and manufactured in Schaffhausen feature several technical improvements which, among other things, increase their accuracy. Apart from having new technical features, IWC’s calibres will undergo a design overhaul that will also enhance their aesthetic appeal.
IWC Schaffhausen In House Movement Calibre 52610 (front view)
On top of this, IWC is once again investing in its Schaffhausen home, the location of the company’s headquarters since 1868, with the construction of a new production and technology centre in the Merishausertal on the outskirts of the city. When IWC moves into the building in October 2016, the entire case and parts manufacturing departments along with the movement assembly will be relocated to the new facility.
IWC Schaffhausen In House Movement Calibre 52610 (back view)
The newly designed in-house 52000-calibre family with bidirectional Pellaton winding has already been selected for use in four models in the 2015 Portugieser collection.
The new movements are equipped with two barrels. They not only supply the watches with sufficient energy for a 7-day power reserve but also drive complications like the new annual calendar or the perpetual calendar.
Another innovation in this particular movement is the material: the winding pawls and the automatic wheel are made of black ceramic while the rotor bearing is made of white ceramic – to be more precise, zirconium oxide. IWC Schaffhausen is one of few watch manufacturers worldwide to use these practically wear-free, high-tech materials for parts in the movement.
IWC Schaffhausen In House Movement Calibre 52615 (front view)
The indexless balance has an increased frequency of 4 hertz (28,800 beats per hour). Combined with the Breguet spring, bent into shape using traditional techniques, this guarantees maximum precision. Only very few watches worldwide have such a high oscillation rate together with a 7-day power reserve.
IWC Schaffhausen In House Movement Calibre 52615 ( back view)
The 52000-calibre family also sets new aesthetic standards. The design and finish of the movements in the new calibre family have undergone another upgrade. The proportions of the rotor and the inset “Probus Scafusia” medallion are noticeably more delicate. Together with the transparent sapphire-glass back, this provides a more open view of the technological features inside the watch.
IWC Schaffhausen In House Movement Calibre 52850 (front view)
In the perpetual calendar models, the rotors are made of solid 18-carat red gold and embellished with a “Probus Scafusia” relief engraving. These are complemented by blued screws, which for many watch connoisseurs are an indispensable characteristic of an exquisite in-house movement.
The decoration with circular graining and Geneva stripes, the interplay of red jewels, blue screws and black ceramic elements with the red gold of the rotor: together, they convey the overall IWC impression of quality appropriate for an in-house movement like this.
IWC Schaffhausen In House Movement Calibre 52850
Despite the elaborate ornamentation, the movements have retained all of their technical appeal. IWC Schaffhausen thus remains true to the engineering ethos established by company founder F. A. Jones when he introduced leading-edge production methods.
The overhauled calibre design is also to be incorporated into the new IWC 69000- and 42000-calibre families, which will now be gradually introduced. The new 69380-calibre chronograph movement is the rugged, high-performance drive that forms the cornerstone of the IWC 69000-calibre family.
The chronograph is a classic column-wheel design and takes the energy it needs from a bidirectional pawl winding system similar to the Pellaton mechanism. The dial contains three subdials: for the hour counter at “9 o’clock”; for the minute counter at “12 o’clock”; and for the small seconds at “6 o’clock”. In contrast with many other chronograph movements, the counters at “6 o’clock” and “9 o’clock” have swapped positions.
Apart from this, IWC Schaffhausen has plans to present the 42110 automatic movement from the new 42000-calibre family with a 42-hour power reserve. Like the 69380 calibre, this movement has a bidirectional pawl-winding system similar to the Pellaton mechanism which is known as a “cliquet magique”. The movements in the two new in-house 69000- and 42000-calibre families will be used primarily for IWC watches in the entry-level price segment.
NEW IN HOUSE MOVEMENTS
THE IWC 52000-CALIBRE FAMILY: The new 52000-calibre family marks the start of a new wave of in-house movements from IWC. The pawls and the automatic wheel are made of black ceramic, while the core of the rotor is made of white ceramic, which leads to almost zero abrasion. A state-of the-art balance with Breguet spring and two barrels guarantee an increased frequency of 4 hertz, ensuring a high rate of accuracy and long power reserve at the same time. The aesthetics have been enhanced through blued screws and a solid-gold rotor on high complications.
THE IWC 42000-CALIBRE FAMILY: The new small Automatic base movement with a diameter of 27 millimeters has a power reserve of 42 hours and a bidirectional pawl-winding system similar to the Pellaton mechanism which is known as a “cliquet magique”. The very robust 42000 calibre with its frequency of 4 hertz will be used primarily for entry-level automatic watches in the IWC portfolio.
THE IWC 69000-CALIBRE FAMILY: The new small base movement 69000 calibre with a diameter of 30 millimeters will be introduced in entry-level chronograph watches. The dial contains three subdials: for the hour counter at “9 o’clock”; for the minute counter at “12 o’clock”; and for the small seconds at “6 o’clock”. It comes with a bi-directional pawl-winding system, a power reserve of 50 hours and a frequency of 4 hertz.
THE IWC 59000-CALIBRE FAMILY: The 59000 calibre convinces with its high frequency of 4 hertz and guarantees a high rate of accuracy and very long power reserve of up to 8 days. Functionalities such as the big date can be added to this movement thanks to IWC’s modular construction method.
EXISTING MOVEMENTS
THE IWC 89000-CALIBRE FAMILY: The 89000 calibre with integrated mechanical chronograph including flyback function keeps its characteristic display with its hour and minute counters combined in one totalizer. The movement with its diameter of 30 millimeters has a power reserve of 68 hours and a frequency of 4 hertz. For all high complications, the movement is newly available with blued screws and a solid-gold rotor.
THE IWC 50000-CALIBRE FAMILY: The 50000-calibre family represents a wide range of different movements that have one thing above all in common: their unmistakably large dimensions. The usage of the Pellaton winding system and a Breguet spring maximizes the precision. 1,960 complete revolutions of the rotor wind the movement for a full 7 days. For all high complications, the movement is newly available with blued screws and a solid-gold rotor.
THE IWC 94000-CALIBRE FAMILY: The 94000 calibre is a hand-wound movement. It is powered by two barrels, which provide the higher torque to drive the constant-force tourbillon. Taking up almost a quarter of the entire bottom plate, the tourbillon is impressive for its sheer size alone. The two barrels of the 94900 calibre aligned in parallel guarantee a minimum of two days’ constant power. All this time, the seconds hand mounted on the titanium cage of the tourbillon advances in one-second intervals. Throughout the remaining time of the four-day power reserve, the tourbillon continues to run evenly, following the rhythm of the balance, which oscillates at the rate of 2.5 hertz, or 18,000 beats per hour.
THE IWC 98000-CALIBRE FAMILY: The 98000-calibre hand-wound movement has been regularly enhanced for over 80 years. The movement includes an elongated index (the “F. A. Jones arrow”), which facilitates quick, easy adjustment of the spring length, and a three-quarter bridge decorated with Geneva stripes. The diameter measures 37.8 millimeters and the frequency is 2.5 hertz. The only exception is the movement used in the Portugieser Tourbillon Hand-Wound, which moves at 4 hertz.
THE IWC 80000-CALIBRE FAMILY: The movements of the 80000-calibre family offer a maximum protection against abrasion and other defects. They are easily accessed for servicing and have been continuously improved in terms of reliability and shock absorption. Featuring an integrated shock absorption system that protects the rotor bearing, the precision of IWC timepieces is guaranteed even under extreme conditions.
Officine Panerai presents the P.4000 calibre, the first automatic movement with an off-centre micro rotor completely developed and made in the manufacture at Neuchâtel.
This design means that the rotor is mounted off-centre and is therefore smaller in diameter than the calibre itself: a sophisticated technical solution enabling the thickness of the movement to be substantially reduced.
The small oscillating weight is inserted within the movement rather than superimposed upon it and the result is a calibre which preserves all the Panerai characteristics of accuracy, reliability and solidity but with a thickness of only 3.95 mm.
With a diameter of 13¾ lignes (31 mm), the new calibre has a large bridge which is flanked by the small oscillating weight winding in both directions and the balance cock. The latter has twin supports, more secure and stronger than the customary overhanging balance cock with a single support. The supports have two screws for adjusting the vertical play of the balance staff.
The balance wheel oscillates at 28,800 alternations per hour (equivalent to a frequency of 4 Hz). It is a balance wheel with variable inertia, that is, with screws enabling the rate to be adjusted precisely without altering the relationship of the balance spring and the bridge.
Fitted with 31 jewels, the movement has a power reserve of at least three days, as a result of having two spring barrels connected in series. It is also fitted with the device which stops the balance wheel when the winding crown is pulled out, for synchronising the watch exactly.
The P.4000 calibre is produced in two versions which differ in the kind of finish, the engraving and the material of the micro-rotor. The first, for models with a steel case, has bridges with a horizontally brushed finish, blue engraving and an oscillating weight of tungsten alloy, with relief decoration on the matt surface.
The second version is for the models with a gold case and it has bridges with a circular brushed finish, gilded engraving and a rotor of 22 carat gold, with clous de Paris hobnail finish and polished decorations in relief on the brushed surface.
Technical details
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Automatic mechanical
Off-centered rotor made of tungsten or 22 ct. red gold
13¾ lignes in diameter
Thickness 3.95 mm
31 jewels
28,800 alternations/hour
KIF Parechoc® anti-shock device
Power reserve 3 days
Two spring barrels
Stop balance wheel
203 components
The watchmaking skills of Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier (VMF) combined with the creativity of CSEM and its mastery of silicon technologies to produce an invention which drastically increases the power-reserve of the mechanical watch. Culmination of a project initiated seven years ago. Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier has drawn on all its watchmaking know-how to industrialize a revolutionary mechanism developed by CSEM to replace the traditional Swiss lever escapement. The movement is based on a very advanced technology and merits being proven on an industrial scale: the manufacture therefore plans to release the first movements within a three-year timescale.
Prototype of the movement
Structures on flexible guides are particularly suitable for providing precise, frictionless movements, without the use of lubricants and without wear. Convinced that these advantages could be usefully exploited in micro-engineering and precision watchmaking, Pierre Genequand, a physicist at CSEM, devised a new type of mechanical regulator which uses flexible structures both in the escapement and the oscillator.
The major benefit of the regulator proposed by Pierre Genequand is that it drastically reduces the energy consumption of a watch movement. The challenge of adapting such an innovation to the scale of a wristwatch was overcome by combining the excellent mechanical properties of silicon with entirely frictionless pivots mounted on flexible articulations, both in the escapement and the oscillator. In the final analysis, the owners of a watch movement powered by this regulator will need to wind their watch just once a month.
“This is a wonderful meeting of minds with a watch industry partner that has the necessary expertise to turn our invention into an innovation, i.e. a prestigious product which meets its customers’ expectations,” said a delighted Mario El-Khoury, CEO of CSEM. “The Genequand movement adds a new invention to applied research meets luxury Product the history of mechanical watchmaking.”
Familiar with the production of mechanical movements that use a traditional escapement through the work of its sister company Atokalpa, Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier encourages the use of silicon where traditional technologies are less efficient.
P. Genequand, M. El Khoury & JD Dubois at Vaucher Decoration Workshop
In the present case, Jeandaniel Dubois concludes: “The Genequand escapement is an innovation which gives the traditional mechanical watch an exceptional power-reserve. VMF, in its capacity as a high end movement manufacturer, proves its determination to improve still further the performance of the mechanical watch. The Genequand regulator incorporated in a special movement will be marketed by our sister brand Parmigiani Fleurier for an exclusive period. The system will then become available to other clients, powering calibres specifically developed to receive it.”
Assembling Workshop, Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier
The policy of innovation followed by the Fleurier motorist guarantees numerous benefits to its clients, not least the ability to stand out in a world where authenticity and tradition are of paramount importance.
In 2002, Pierre Genequand was newly retired and looking forward to realising an old dream: to apply to watchmaking a technology invented for other applications in which he had extensive experience. He now had time to pursue ideas which had come to him earlier, encouraged by progress made with silicon: the possibility of making micro-engravings on components derived from this material and of applying to watchmaking a technology hitherto developed for aerospace engineering projects.
During his years in Neuchâtel, firstly as a researcher at the Swiss Foundation for Micro-Engineering Research, and from 1985 to 2002 with CSEM as a researcher and senior expert in Advanced Mechanisms, he had never been able to fulfil his ambition of developing a watch. However in the 1980s, the watch industry crisis drove the industry to technological diversification, a trend that was maintained after the establishment of CSEM in 1984. It is fortunate that in the Neuchâtel region, one of the birthplaces of watchmaking, people never really lose touch with their roots.
Pierre Genequand
Pierre Genequand therefore rose to the challenge of reducing the energy dissipation of a watch – thereby increasing its power-reserve – with the help of Flextech technologies (applying the clearance-free and frictionless properties of flexible articulations to precision mechanisms developed in the fields of fibre-optic guidance and aerospace engineering). In this problem the components most affected by friction are the escapement and the balance pivot, hence most likely to benefit from Flextech. Initial studies of the escapement led to the concept of flexible pallets in permanent contact with the toothed wheel. He then combined this escapement with a geometry in which the pivot, the return spring and the link with the pallets of the balance are all manufactured as Flextech components.
20 : 1 Scale model of Genequand System
Miniaturisation to increase the power-reserve of the mechanical watch: This phase was completed in 2004 with the construction of a 20:1 scale model which he presented to a CSEM delegation, to whom he transferred the invention shortly afterwards.
5 : 1 Scale model of Genequand System
This first mock-up was reduced to a 5:1 scale model by CSEM in 2005, together with a preliminary study for a 1:1 scale model made of silicon.
Project Team in front of Manufacture Vaucher
In 2007, the partnership between CSEM and Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier was signed. At that point, in order to achieve the 1:1 scale miniaturisation which would allow integration in a watch movement, components such as the isochronism compensator and the Wittrick had to be developed in addition to the pallets, resulting in a three-component system. In 2014, movement prototypes demonstrated how the system named in honour of Pierre Genequand worked: a new mechanical regulator offering an exceptional power reserve was born.
The Genequand System
1 winding per month
10 years from idea to system
Invented by Pierre Genequand
2 partners, CSEM and Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier
1team of 20 people
From the scale model to the system, miniaturisation by a factor of 20
3 components isochronism compensator, Wittrick oscillator, pallets (on the left)
86,400 vibrations per hour of the oscillator
10 x 15 mm, dimensions of the system
0.02 mm, strip thicknesses
Project Leaders
Mario El-Khoury, CEO of CSEM
Jean-Daniel Dubois, CEO of Vaucher Manufacture
Pierre Genequand, now retired from CSEM and inventor of the Genequand regulator
François Barrot, CSEM Project Manager
Takahiro Hamaguchi, Head of Movements Development, Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier
About Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier
A manufacturer of high-end mechanical watch movements, VMF is happy to describe itself as a prestige motorist. It manufactures the heart of the watch, an assembly which itself consists of several hundred components. The vertically-integrated firm is responsible for the complete production and quality control of watch movements thanks to a production capacity which combines innovation and tradition. VMF is majority owned by the Sandoz Family Foundation and Hermès International. The manufacturing arm of Parmigiani Fleurier, a partner of Hermès and a supplier of movements to prestigious watch brands, it has a 200-strong workforce and trains 15 apprentices. Through its Vaucher Private Label entity, it is a strategic tool for brands wishing to gain access to high-end watchmaking.
About CSEM
CSEM is a private research and development institute specialising in micro-technologies, nanotechnologies, microelectronics, systems engineering, photovoltaic technology and information and communication technologies. CSEM has more than 400 highly qualified employees working at CSEM sites in Neuchâtel, Alpnach, Muttenz, Landquart and Zurich.
Under contract to the Swiss Confederation, CSEM develops innovative technology platforms through four strategic programs – Microsystems, systems, ultra-low-power integrated systems and surface engineering – corresponding to domains in which it has acquired over the years a national and international reputation. By expanding its knowledge and adapting it to the needs of industry, new products are brought to market and new ventures are created.
Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier introduces a small masterpiece of complexity with a height of barely 2.6 mm, born of its tradition and its artisanal-industrial manufacturing process :the Seed VMF 5401self-winding, extra-thin from a height of 2.6 mm.
A development of the VMF 5301 movement, it retains the latter’s robustness and slenderness to which it adds new automatic functions enabling it to be wound and recharged as quickly as a conventional self-winding calibre. Specially optimized for the Seed VMF 5401 by the company atokalpa, the variable-inertia balance ensures optimal isochronism. Designed to incorporate additional mechanisms, it exists in a version with calendar – the Seed VMF 5400.
The perfection of this high-end movement associates your brand with an ideal aesthetic – uncommon finishing, such as bridges chamfered the traditional way using a piercer – its beauty showcased by the presence of your maker’s mark on its micro-rotor. The minimum order is for 25 movements at a unit price of 1,490 CHF.
Features
Fitting-diameter 30 mm (131⁄4’’’)
Height 2.6 mm or 3 mm(with calendar)
Frequency 3 Hz (21,600 Bph)
Power reserve 42 hours
Chronometry Variable-inertia balance with inertia-blocks
Indications and functions
Hours, minutes, small-seconds at 6 o’clock, date in an aperture at 3 o’clock or 6 o’clock
Finishing
Circular-graining on top and bottom side of main plate, fine circular-graining under the balance, rhodium-plated
Bridges with Geneva Waves, rhodium-plated
Colour-contrast engraving
Diamond machined chamfers and bevels
Ceramic ball bearing
Circular-graining on gear-wheels (top and bottom)
Flat polished screws
Chamfered bridges (traditional method)
Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier unveils the latest product born of its tradition and its artisanal-industrial manufacturing process: the Seed VMF 3024 with a self-winding flying tourbillon, 60-seconds. With a frequency of 4 Hz, it beats 28,800 times per hour in a titanium cage. Accurate and lightweight, it also stands out by its slenderness – a height of just 4 mm.
Tourbillon, twin barrels in series and a variable inertia balance underpin this calibre’s isochronism. The perfection of this high-end movement associates your brand with an ideal aesthetic – uncommon finishing, such as bridges chamfered the traditional way using a piercer – its beauty showcased by the complete personalization of the gold oscillating weight. The minimum order is for 10 movements at a unit price of 8,000 CHF.
Features
Calibre: Seed VMF3024 Self-winding Flying tourbillon 12 ¼’’
Fitting-diameter 28 mm (12 1 ⁄4 ’’’)
Height 3.95 mm
Frequency 4 Hz (28,800 Bph)
Power reserve: 45 hours
Chronometry: Variable-inertia balance with inertia-blocks
Indications and functions
Hours, minutes, flying tourbillion, 60-seconds at 6 o’clock
Finishing
Circular-graining on top and bottom side of main plate, rhodium-plated
Circular-graining on gear-wheels (top and bottom)
Bridges with Geneva Waves, rhodium-plated, colour contrast engraving
Ceramic ball bearing
Flat polished screws
Chamfered bridges (traditional method)
Seed VMF 5401-13 1 ⁄4’’’: With a depth starting at 2.6 mm, the Seed 5401 calibre fully merits its designation as an extra-thin movement. It has been designed to combine finesse and robustness. Available in quantities from 25 to 250 per year, it offers a high level of finishing. Personalisable thanks to its micro oscillating weight, it is designed to accommodate additional mechanisms. It exists in a version with a calendar, the Seed VMF 5400. Minimum order quantity: 25 movements at CHF 1’490.- apiece.
Features
Fitting-diameter 30 mm (13 1⁄4’’’)
Depth 2.6 mm or 3 mm (with calendar)
Frequency 3 Hz (21,600 Bph)
Power reserve 42 hours
Chronometry Variable-inertia balance
Indications and functions
Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock, calendar aperture at 3 o’clock
Finishing
Circular-graining on top and bottom side of main plate, fine circular-graining under the balance wheel, rhodium-plated
Bridges with Geneva Waves, rhodium-plated, colour contrast engraving
Diamond machined chamfers and bevels
Ceramic ball bearing
Burnished pivots (cylinder and shoulder)
Circular-graining on gear-wheels (top and bottom)
Flat polished screws
Seed VMF 5401/50-131 ⁄4’’’: An offshoot of the Seed VMF 5401 calibre, this automatic movement with micro rotor comes with an additional mechanism in the form of a perpetual calendar. Available in quantities from 25 to 250 per year, it can be personalised by its micro weight and offers a high level of finishing. Extra-thin movement with perpetual calendar. Minimum order quantity 25 movements from CHF 4’300.- a piece.
Features
Fitting-diameter 30 mm (131⁄4’’’)
Depth 4.2 mm
Frequency 3 Hz (21,600 Bph)
Power reserve 42 hours (coupled)
Chronometry Variable-inertia balance
Indications and functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date hand at 9 o’clock, 12-month hand at 12 o’clock
Moon in aperture at 6o’clock
Leap year indicator at 12 o’clock
Finishing
Circular-graining on top and bottom side of main plate, fine circular-graining under the balance wheel, rhodium-plated
Bridges with Geneva Waves, rhodium-plated, colour contrast engraving
Diamond machined chamfers and bevels
Ceramic ball bearing
Burnished pivots (cylinder and shoulder)
Circular-graining on gear-wheels (top and bottom)
Flat polished screws
A variation of the Seed VMF 3022 calibre, this automatic movement comes with an additional mechanism in the form of an extra-thin chronograph. Available in quantities of 25. Designed to allow wide scope for personalisation thanks to its oscillating weight, it guarantees optimal timekeeping and offers a high level of finishing. This movement has been especially developped to be compatible with all additional mechanisms. Minimum order quantity: 25 movements from CHF 1’630.- apiece.
Features
Fitting-diameter 28 mm (121⁄2’’’)
Depth 6.07 mm
Frequency 4 Hz (28,800 Bph)
Power reserve 42 hours [coupled]
Chronometry Variable-inertia balance from 2014
Twin barrels
Indications and functions
Hours, minutes, seconds at 3 o’clock, Center seconds,30 minute counter at 9 o’clock, 12 hour counter at 6 o’clock, semi-instantaneous simple calendar at 4:30
Finishing
Circular-graining on top and bottom side of main plate, rhodium-plated
Bridges with Geneva Waves, rhodium-plated, colour contrast engraving
Diamond machined chamfers and bevels
Ceramic ball bearing
Burnished pivots (cylinder and shoulder)
Circular-graining on gear-wheels (top and bottom)
Flat polished screws
Variations of SEED VMF 3022 SEED VMF 3022/10 (Automatic chronograph, Simple calendar, Fly-back option available)
H, M, S3H. Center seconds, 30-minute at 9 o’clock, 12h at 6 o’clock
Calendar aperture at 4:30
Diameter: 30.0 mm (13 1⁄4’’’); total depth: 7.0 mm
SEED VMF 3022/11 (Automatic chronograph, Large date)
H, M, S3H. Center seconds, 30-minute at 9 o’clock, 12h at 6 o’clock
Large date aperture at 12 o’clock
Diameter: 30.0 mm (13 1 ⁄4’’’); Total depth: 7.41 mm SEED VMF 3022/12 (Automatic extra-thin chronograph)
H, M, S3H. Center seconds, 30-minute at 9 o’clock, 12h at 6 o’clock
Large date aperture at 12 o’clock
Calendar aperture at 4:30
Diameter:28.0 mm (12 1 ⁄2’’’); Total depth: 6.07 mmSEED VMF 3022/20(Calendar)
H, M, S3H.
Calendar hand at 9 o’clock
Diameter: 30.0 mm (131 ⁄4’’’); Total depth: 5.3 mm
SEED VMF 3022/21(Calendar)
H, M, S9H. Calendar hand at 3 o’clock
Diameter: 30.0 mm (131 ⁄4’’’); Total depth: 5.3 mm
SEED VMF 3022/30(Calendar & Small Moon)
H, M, S. 6 o’clock, moon aperture at 10:20.
Diameter: 26.2 mm (11 1 ⁄2’’’) total depth: 5.3 mm
SEED VMF 3022/31 (Calendar & Large Moon)
H, M, S. Calendar hand at 6 o’clock
7-day aperture at 11 o’clock
12-month aperture at 1 o’clock
Moon aperture at 6 o’clock
Diameter: 26.2 mm (11 1 ⁄2’’’); Total depth: 5.3 mm
SEED VMF 3022/32 (Calendar with central hand & Large Moon)
H, M, S. Central calendar hand
Large moon aperture at 6 o’clock
Diameter: 26.2 mm (11 1 ⁄2’’’); Total depth:5.3 mm
SEED VMF 3022/60 (GMT)
H, M, S. Indexable 12h hand (local time) in jumps of +/- 1 h
24-hour hand (home time)
Calendar hand (local date) in centre, in phase with 12h hand
Diameter:26.2 mm (11 1 m⁄2’’’); Total depth:4.95 mm
After the successful launch of the TAG Heuer Calibre 1887 automatic chronograph movement in 2009, the pioneering Swiss brand now adds a second movement to its ever-expanding industrial capacity: the TAG Heuer Calibre 1969.
In 1969, Jack Heuer and his partners unveiled the Calibre 11, the world’s first automatic chronograph movement, which he housed in the now-legendary square-shaped Monaco. The groundbreaking movement and its successors –Calibres 12, 14 and 15 – are among the most innovative in the pioneering Swiss brand’s history, and continue to inspire TAG Heuer designers, engineers and artisans to this day.
Of course, by 1969, the company, which opened its first workshop in 1860, had already well established its credentials, especially in the realm of high-end chronographs. Jack Heuer’s great grandfather, Edouard Heuer, patented his first chronograph in 1882, and in 1887 patented the ‘oscillating pinion’ still used by major watchmakers of mechanical chronographs. In 1914, Heuer launched its first wrist chronograph; two years later, it stunned the racing world with a 1/100th-of-a-second stopwatch. This incessant drive to carve time down into its tiniest and most precise fractions continues: in 2012, the TAG Heuer Carrera Mikrogirder, the only mechanical chronograph precise to 5/10,000th second, equipped with a never-before-seen regulating system made of micro blades and beating at an incredible 1,000Hz, won the Aiguille d’Or in the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, watchmaking’s most prestigious award.
TAG HEUER Calibre 1969
To strengthen its lock on the chronograph crown, TAG Heuer launched an in-house manufactured movement, the Calibre 1887, in 2009. The integrated column-wheel automatic chronograph movement is a tribute to Edouard and Jack Heuer’s historic contributions to Swiss watchmaking: it is outfitted with an audaciously re-engineered version of the brand’s 1887-patented oscillating pinion; and it is housed in a new generation of the Carrera, the legendary sports chronograph first launched by Jack Heuer in 1964.
The innovative movement took five years and approximately 20 million Swiss Francs to develop. To produce it in the volume TAG Heuer’s accelerating growth requires, a dedicated workshop had to be constructed at TAG Heuer’s facilities in La Chaux-de-Fonds (Neuchâtel). The first Calibre 1887 rolled off the workshop’s semi-automatic assembly line in 2010, and won the coveted “Petite Aiguile d’Or” Award at that year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. To date, 130,000 have been produced.
TAG HEUER CALIBRE 1887
Now TAG Heuer is taking the next step by industrializing a second in-house manufacture movement, thus doubling its movement manufacturing capacity and making it the number one chronograph movement manufacturer among watch brands in Switzerland. The new integrated mechanical movement is being produced at the just finished fourth TAG Heuer Manufacture in Chevenez in the Swiss Jura. Total expenditure for the new project: another 20 million Swiss Francs. Total volume: 500 in 2013, 5,000 in 2014.
From blank slate to full production in two years: an impressive achievement, on par with the that of Jack Heuer and his Calibre 11 team back in 1969 -which is why the brand has chosen to call this latest creation the TAG Heuer Calibre 1969.
The high quality of the manufactured movement is the direct result of key lessons learned in the design and production of TAG Heuer’s Calibre 1887 and award-winning “haute horlogerie” movements. A benchmark of prestige chronograph design, the vertical-clutch system is exceptionally powerful and precise: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz), with an extended 70 hour power reserve and a difference of time adjustment after 24 hours of minus 4 to 6 seconds. The very thin movement (6.5mm) houses 200 Swiss components. The assortment is a Swiss ATOKALPA, as is the four-spoked balance, which is KIF auto-shock adjusted.
The dial’s counter layout, like the original Calibre 11, is classic “tri-compax”: central chronograph hand with chronograph minutes at 3 o’clock, chronograph hour at 9 o’clock and small second at 6 o’clock. The caliber 1969 also features a date window at 9 o’clock. The decoration is equally outstanding, with “Côte de Genève” and snailing on the black tungsten oscillating weight and the minute and automatic bridges, which are nickel plated and angle polished, with shiny beveled edges. The bridges, plates and ébauches are all produced at Chevenez.
In conclusion, this new movement better combines maximum thinness with a larger power reserve and a significant volume potential.
By adding the Calibre 1887 and the Calibre 1969 to its manufacturing capacity, TAG Heuer’s growth and continued leadership in chronographs is fully assured. Production volume of the two innovative movements will surpass 50,000 units in 2013 and reach a projected target capacity of 100,000 by 2016. This makes TAG Heuer the biggest industrial chronograph producer among all Swiss watch brands, and one of the very few Swiss Manufactures capable of producing all of its own major components -not just movements but dials and cases. A pioneering force for more than 150 years, TAG Heuer has always been at the forefront of innovation in technology and design. The TAG Heuer Calibres 1887 and 1969 make it abundantly clear that it has no intention of being anywhere else.
In half a century of expertise and innovations, the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget has asserted itself as the specialist and leader in the field of ultra-thin movements. Out of 35 Manufacture made movements, the House has developed a complete range of 23 ultra-thin calibres that have earned 12 records for their extreme slenderness.
These peerless skills that have become an authentic Piaget signature are synonymous with elegance. They display equal panache in three main areas: base movements (hand-wound or automatic); calibres with major complications (Tourbillon, Perpetual Calendar, Chronograph, Minute Repeater); and open-worked or “skeleton” movements including gem-set open worked calibres – an art in which the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget displays exclusive mastery.
Founded in 1874 in La Côte-aux-Fées in the Swiss Jura, the Manufacture Piaget immediately established itself thanks to the precision, the sturdiness and the reliability of its movements. In 1957, the Manufacture played a pioneering role by presenting its first ultra-thin movement, the famous Calibre 9P (just 2 mm thin), one of the world’s thinnest mechanical hand-wound movements.
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 9P
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 9P
Manufacture Piaget ultra-thin mechanical hand-wound movement
Movement thickness: 2 mm
Casing dimensions: 9’’’ (ø 20.5 mm)
Number of jewels: 18
Frequency : 19,800 vibrations/hour (2.75 Hz)
Power reserve: approx. 36 hours
Finishing: Vertical Côtes de Genève, circular-grained mainplate, bevelled and hand-drawn bridges, blued screws
Functions: Hours, minutes
In 1960 came another feat with the creation of Calibre 12P, one of the thinnest automatic movements in the world (2.3 mm) – an accomplishment made possible by the ingenious integration of an offset micro-rotor, a peerless technical accomplishment at the time in the field of ultra-thin watchmaking.
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 12P
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre12P
Manufacture Piaget ultra-thin mechanical self-winding movement
Movement thickness: 2.3 mm
Casing dimensions: 12’’’ ½ (ø 28.1mm)
Number of jewels: 30
Frequency : 19’800 vibrations/hour (2.75 Hz)
Power reserve: approx. 36 hours
Finishing: Vertical Côtes de Genève, circular-grained mainplate, bevelled bridges
Functions : Hours, minutes
Ultra-thin movements thus became a brand signature, one of its undisputed strongholds, by enabling it to express its creativity. This is because these miniature masterpieces are not just a token of peerless technical prowess; they are naturally designed and developed to ensure seamless integration within the case.
Thanks to their slenderness and to their diminutive size, ultra-thin movements give the Piaget designers scope for all manner of daring options: ultra-thin cases, hard stone dials, jewellery watches, coin watches, special-shaped cases, etc.
In 1998, the Manufacture relaunched its iconic Altiplano line, entirely dedicated to these movements. The mastery of ultra-thin watchmaking thus lies at the very core of the identity that Piaget has been cultivating for half a century in a close-knit alliance between technical and aesthetic aspects. It has also enabled Piaget to earn benchmark status within the narrow circle of fully integrated watch Manufactures.
Developing and producing an ultra-thin movement involves sophisticated technical challenges to which Piaget rises with a blend of expertise and experience handed down over several generations. Even the most “simple” ultra-thin movement (hours/minutes) is already a full-fledged complication.
This is because it implies mastering all the intricacies of the watchmaking art and of miniaturisation in order to push back the technical boundaries of the components and transcend existing watch industry conventions – while simultaneously ensuring long-term solidity and performance.
Taking the ultra-thin option entails additional difficulties at each stage of design, production, adjustment and finishing. The development of a new calibre may take anything from two to four years. It involves fitting the mainplate along with countless wheels, pinions, arbors, levers, jewels, bridges, springs, etc. into a space sometimes barely two millimetres thin, as well as naturally making the parts themselves as thin as possible. By way of example, certain wheels are no thicker than 0.12 mm (compared with 0.08 mm for a single hair). Specialists meticulously test the resistance capacities of the various components in order to ensure their smooth operation. Managing the minimal spaces between the moving parts also plays an important role.
So as to turn freely and guarantee optimal reliability, each wheel must feature a certain “clearance” – ideally three hundredths of a millimetre. During the assembly of an ultra-thin Piaget calibre (a stage calling for extreme dexterity given that some movements comprise over 400 components), the clearances for each wheel of each movement are manually checked by a watchmaking expert.
Ultra-thin base movements (small seconds)
Since its two stellar calibres presented in 1957 and 1960, Piaget has distinguished itself through an entire range of ultra-thin hours/minutes movements, to which a small seconds may be added.
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 430P
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 430P
Manufacture Piaget ultra-thin mechanical hand-wound movement
Movement thickness: 2.1 mm
Casing dimensions: 9’’’ (ø 20.5 mm)
Number of jewels: 18
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: approx. 43 hours
Finishing: Circular Côtes de Genève, circular-grained mainplate and bridges, bevelled bridges, blued screws
Functions: Hours, minutes
The realm of hand-wound movements notably includes Calibre 430P (2.1 mm thin) and its rectangular version (438P, also 2.1 mm).
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 438P
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 438P
Manufacture Piaget ultra-thin mechanical hand-wound movement
Movement thickness: 2.1 mm
Casing dimensions: 10’’’3/4 x 9’’’ (ø 23.7 mm x 20.3 mm)
Number of jewels: 19
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: approx. 43 hours
Finishing: Circular Côtes de Genève, circular-grained mainplate and bridges, bevelled bridges, blued screws
Functions: Hours, minutes
A worthy heir to the 9P, it is still one of the world’s thinnest movements and is renowned for its reliability. The 450P (2.1 mm) also feature a small seconds subdial at 10 o’clock.
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 450P
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 450P
Manufacture Piaget ultra-thin mechanical hand-wound movement
Movement thickness: 2.1 mm
Casing dimensions: 9’’’ (ø 20.5 mm)
Number of jewels: 18
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: approx. 43 hours
Finishing: Circular Côtes de Genève, circular-grained mainplate and bridges, bevelled bridges, blued screws
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds at 10 o’clock
The third-generation hand-wound movements (830P, 832P and 838P, all 2.1 mm) stand out for their larger diameter and their approximately 60-hour power reserve.
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 830P
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 830P
Manufacture Piaget ultra-thin mechanical hand-wound movement
The 838P also has a small seconds subdialat 10 o’clock, while the 833P specially developed for the Piaget Altiplano Double Jeu watch (two superimposed cases) features a 24-hour display.
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 838P
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 838P
Manufacture Piaget ultra-thin mechanical hand-wound movement
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds at 10 o’clock
When it comes to automatic calibres, Piaget marked the 50th anniversary of the legendary 12P in due style by presenting two record-breaking thin calibres in 2010: the 1200P (hours/minutes), the world’s thinnest automatic movement at 2.35 mm thin; and the 1208P (with small seconds at 5 o’clock).
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 1200P
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 1200P
Manufacture Piaget ultra-thin mechanical self-winding movement
circular-grained wheels with sunburst motif,“P” fixed to the regulator-assembly as Piaget signature, platinum oscillating weight (engraved with the number of limited editions when relevant.)
Functions: Hours, minutes
Available with a pink gold coloured platinum oscillating weight
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 1208P
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre1208P
Manufacture Piaget ultra-thin mechanical self-winding movement
circular-grained wheels with sunburst motif, “P” fixed to the regulator-assembly as Piaget signature, 22K pink gold oscillating weight
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds at 5 o’clock
This line is resolutely dedicated to technical feats, as confirmed by the latest addition to this category: the 1205P, the world’s thinnest automatic movement with date mechanism (3 mm).
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 1205P
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 1205P
Manufacture Piaget ultra-thin mechanical self-winding movement
The world’s thinnest self-winding movement with date
Movement thickness: 3 mm
Casing dimensions: 13’’’ ¼ (ø 29.9 mm)
Number of jewels: 27
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: approx. 44 hours
Finishing: Circular Côtes de Genève, circular-grained mainplate, bevelled bridges, sunburst brushed wheels, blued screws, “P” fixed to the regulator-assembly as Piaget signature, 22K pink gold oscillating weight
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds at 5 o’clock, date at 9 o’clock
Mastery of ultra-thin complications
In its ongoing pursuit of extreme slenderness and the infinitely small, Piaget has also explored the field of major complications. Such models involve two sets of challenges: the first due to the fact that complicated movements are already particularly difficult to develop; and the second because they then need to be miniaturised even more, while ensuring they remain as smoothly operational as ever. Making light of such obstacles, Piaget has developed within a decade four major ultra-thin complications interpreted through 10 movements. The latter are produced in a specialised workshop in La Côte-aux-Fées, Piaget’s historical birthplace.
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 600P
Noblesse oblige, the Manufacture paid tribute to the tourbillon by presenting hand-wound Calibre 600P, the world’s thinnest shaped tourbillon movement (3.5 mm thin).
Equipped with a flying tourbillon, this rectangular movement is distinguished by its extra-light carriage composed of 42 elements (weighing only 0.2 gr and featuring three titanium bridges), topped with the P for Piaget, and by its extremely refined finishes.
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 600P
Manufacture Piaget ultra-thin mechanical hand-wound tourbillon movement
The world’s thinnest hand-wound shaped tourbillon movement
Movement thickness: 3.5 mm (4.5 mm including carriage)
Casing dimensions : 12’’’3/4 x 10’’’ (ø 28.6 mm x 22.4 mm)
Number of jewels: 24
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: approx. 44 hours
Flying tourbillon positioned at 12 o’clock, one rotation per minute
Tourbillon carriage: 3 titanium bridges, weight of the tourbillon carriage: 0.2 g
Finishing: Circular Côtes de Genève, mainplate and bridges circular-grained by hand, hand-drawn
and hand-bevelled bridges and carriage, blued screws
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds at 12 o’clock(flying tourbillon), power-reserve indicator at 6 o’clock
It has itself been introduced in in two evolved versions with an astronomical moon-phase (640P, 642P). Piaget has also reinterpreted the field of automatic tourbillons in ultra-thin mode.
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 640P
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 640P
Manufacture Piaget ultra-thin mechanical hand-wound tourbillon movement
The world’s thinnest hand-wound shaped tourbillon movement
Movement thickness: 3.5 mm (4.5 mm including carriage)
Casing dimensions: 12’’’3/4 x 10’’’ (ø 28.6 mm x 22.4 mm)
Number of jewels: 23
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: approx. 44 hours
Flying tourbillon positioned at 12 o’clock, one rotation per minute
Tourbillon carriage: 3 titanium bridges, weight of the tourbillon carriage: 0.2 g
Finishing: Circular Côtes de Genève, mainplate and bridges circular-grained by hand, hand-drawn and hand-bevelled bridges and carriage, blued screws
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds at 12 o’clock, (flying tourbillon), lapis lazuli and gold moon-phase indicator at 6 o’clock (the latter is referred to as “astronomical” because of its extreme precision that varies by only one day in 122 years)
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 642P
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre642P
Manufacture Piaget ultra-thin mechanical hand-wound tourbillon movement
The world’s thinnest hand-wound shaped tourbillon movement
Movement thickness: 4 mm (4.5 mm including carriage)
Casing dimensions: 12’’’3/4 x 10’’’ (28.6 mm x 22.4 mm)
Number of jewels: 23
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3Hz)
Power reserve: approx. 44 hours
Flying tourbillon positioned at 12 o’clock, one rotation per minute
Tourbillon carriage: 3 titanium bridges, weight of the tourbillon carriage: 0.2 g
Finishing: Circular Côtes de Genève, mainplate and bridges circular-grained by hand, hand-drawn
and hand-bevelled bridges and carriage, blued screws
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds at 12 o’clock
(flying tourbillon), moon-phase indicator at 6 o’clock (the latter is referred to as “astronomical” because of its extreme precision that varies by only one day in 122 years)
Calibre1270P, one of the world’s thinnest automatic movements at just 5.5 mm thick derives its virtues from Piaget Calibre 600P – the world’s thinnest hand-wound shaped tourbillon movement – as well as from Piaget Calibre 1208P – the world’s thinnest automatic movement equipped with a micro-rotor.
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 1270P
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 1270P
Manufacture Piaget ultra-thin mechanical self-winding tourbillon movement
Movement thickness: 5.5 mm (5.7 mm including carriage)
Casing dimension: 15 ½’’’ (ø 34.9 mm)
Number of jewels: 35
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: approx. 40 hours
Tourbillon carriage flying tourbillon at 1 o’clock
Finishing: Circular Côtes de Genève from the centre of the tourbillon, sunburst satin-brushed guilloché mainplate starting from the center of the hands on dial side, circular-grained mainplate and bridges, hand-drawn mainplate, hand-bevelled, hand-circular-grained,hand-drawn and sunburst satin-brushed bridges,circular satin-brushed wheels, sunburst satin-brushed barrel cover, blued screws, guilloché platinum oscillating weight
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds , flying tourbillon at 1 o’clock, power-reserve indicator on the back
Also available with pink gold colour or black oscillating weight in limited edition
In an especially refined aesthetic detail, the ultra-light tourbillon carriage of the 1270P, topped with the P initial, entwines with its off-centred micro-rotor (visible on the dial side) to form a figure 8. This means that the traditional watchmaking conventions are reversed and that the bridges are placed on the dial side.
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 1270S
The 1270S is a light, airy descendant of the iconic 1270P calibre, Piaget’s first ultra-thin tourbillon automatic movement. This caliber is the end result of adding the complexity of the infinitely small to the constraints implied by a horological complication and its numerous components, further compounded by the automatic winding mechanism bearing in mind that most skeleton movements on the market are hand-wound. It took no less than three years to develop this exceptional calibre, to accommodate 225 parts within a barely 5.05-millimetre area and to skeleton-work it while ensuring impeccable operation.
Precise calculations and painstaking development work made it possible to exalt the totally unique and identifiable aesthetic of the shaped 1270S calibre, one of the world’s thinnest tourbillon automatic skeleton movements at just 5.05 mm thick. In addition to the majestic tourbillon, the inverted structure of this movement provides a view of the platinum oscillating weight and bridges.
Technical details
Manufacture Piaget 1270S, mechanical automatic
Functions: hours and minutes, tourbillon at 1 o’clock
Power reserve: approx. 40h
Thickness: 5.05 mm (movement) & 8.85 mm (case)
Frequency:21,600 vph (3Hz)
Dimensions: 34.98 mm (15”’ 1/2)
Number of jewels: 35
Parts: 225
Finishing: hand-bevelled and polished satin-brushed mainplate, hand-bevelled and polished satin-brushed bridges, hand-drawn mainplate and bridges, black PVD or pink gold screws with blind hole, mirror-polished screw feet, satin-brushed wheels, bevelled and satin-brushed barrel, black PVD-coated or guilloché pink gold, satin-brushed, hand-bevelled and polished oscillating weight.
Another major traditional complication, the perpetual calendar, has been given a whole new face in extra-thin Calibre 855P – one of the world’s thinnest perpetual calendar movements (5.6 mm thin) – also equipped with retrograde day and date indications, as well as with a dual time function.
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 855P
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 855P
Manufacture Piaget ultra-thin mechanical self-winding perpetual calendar movement
Movement thickness: 5.6 mm
Casing dimensions: 12 ½’’’ (ø 28.4 mm)
Number of jewels: 38
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz),balance with screws
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds at 4 o’clock, dual time-zone indicator at 8 o’clock with day/night indicator synchronised with the main time zone, retrograde days-ofthe-week indicator at 9 o’clock, retrograde date at 3 o’clock, month and leap-year indicator at 12 o’clock
Available with black PVD oscillating weight and as part of an exclusive series featuring a 25 diamond-set (approx. 0.2 ct) oscillating weight (856P)
In the field of chronographs, Piaget offers one of the thinnest such automatic movements on the market (5.6 mm): the 800P, a flyback chronograph with column wheel, vertical coupling-clutch and 24-hour dual-time display.
In 2013, the Manufacture introduced a master stroke – this time of a musical nature – in the form of Calibre 1290P. Already the world’s thinnest automatic minute repeater watch (4.8 mm), this model also features a cushion shape that further increased the difficulties involved in its development. Despite its extreme slenderness, this movement stands out in terms of its exceptional sound performances.
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 1290P
Assembling a single calibre represents 10 full days of work, including 25 for the casing up alone. An authentic Fine Watchmaking masterpiece, the 1290P is adorned with “Image” finishes performed exclusively by hand with a file (250 hours of work) and embodying a unique blend of traditional and modern elements.Movements featuring such finishes are ennobled by the House motto “Always do better than necessary.”
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 1290P
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 1290P
Manufacture Piaget ultra-thin mechanical self-winding minute repeater movement
The world’s thinnest self-winding minute repeater movement
Movement thickness: 4.8 mm
Casing dimensions: 15 ½’’’ (ø 34.9 mm)
Number of jewels: 44
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3Hz)
Power reserve: approx. 40 hours
Finishing: Case-back side: Circular Côtes-de-Genève,bridges hand-bevelled and hand-drawn with a file, surnburst satinbrushed wheels, pink or black toned polished screws,“P” fixed to the regulator-assembly as Piaget signature, pink or black coloured platinum oscillating weight
Dial side: sunburst satin brushed and guilloche mainplate hand-bevelled and hand-drawn with a file, sunburst or circular satin brushed steel components hand-bevelled and hand-drawn with a file, black or polished screws
Functions: Hours, minutes
Ultra -thin skeletonised movements
Vividly demonstrating virtuoso horological skills, these movements call for additional expertise in that the mainplate must be openworked as much as possible, which means keeping only the indispensable bridges and other parts. This work is rendered all the more delicate by the fact that each component of an ultra-thin movement is already miniaturised in the extreme.
Piaget took its first steps in the domain of extra-thin openworked movements in 1975-1976, with a skeleton version of the 9P. Since 2004, a whole range of simple of complicated movements featuring an ethereal design has been introduced, including the hand-wound Calibre 939S (hours/ minutes/small seconds, 2.7 mm thin); the automatic 1200S (hours/minutes; 2.4 mm); as well as the fascinating 600S (hand-wound skeleton tourbillon, 3.5 mm).
Openworking the world’s thinnest movement, the 1200S, naturally requires superlative mastery. Engraving and hollowing out this masterpiece without adversely influencing its rigidity – and thus its smooth operation – is a task reserved for the world’s finest artisans. Further upstream in the creative process, meticulous development and calculations had to be performed in order to design the world’s thinnest skeleton automatic movement without diminishing its resistance and its reliability.
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 1200S
The design team was called into action to makethis movement as rigid as possible: long curves crossing the main plate and the bridges harmoniously ensure this crucial overall rigidity. It took over three years of research and development to perfect Piaget Calibre 1200S. Compared with Piaget Calibre 1200P, from which it is derived, the new Calibre 1200S features a number of innovations.
In addition to the 950 platinum micro-rotor – which is part of the exclusive character of this exceptional movement – the balance-bridge reveals an harmonious and symmetrical new aesthetic. The hour-wheel bridge has been further slimmed down to a minimal 0.11 mm lateral thickness in order to achieve the extreme slenderness of this movement featuring unprecedented dimensions. Remarkably, this quest for the infinitely small is teamed with exceptional decoration.
Stylistic effects are based on alternating matt sunburst and sandblasted surfaces contrasting with the brilliance of the angles, as well as on variations of rhodium-plated or black colours. The eminently contemporary and architectural Piaget Calibre 1200S takes the art of skeleton-working into a whole new dimension, with resolutely modern lines displaying profound respect for traditional craftsmanship.
Piaget Ultrathin Calibr 1200S
Manufacture Piaget ultra-thin mechanical self-winding skeleton movement
The world’s thinnest automatic skeleton movement
Movement thickness: 2.4 mm
Casing dimensions: 14’’’ ¼ (ø 31.9 mm)
Number of jewels: 26
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3Hz)
Power reserve: approx. 44 hours
Finishing: sunburst satin-brushed plate and bridges, hand-drawn and hand-bevelled bridges and mainplate, circular and sunburst satin-brushed wheels, black screws, “P” fixed to the regulator-assembly as Piaget signature, black platinum oscillating weight
Functions: Hours, minutes
Also available in slate grey colour with pink gold colour oscillating weight and pink gold screws
Ultra-thin gem-set skeletonised movements
It takes perfect mastery of the art of openworking to dare to imagine setting these exceptional movements, because gem-studded skeletonised movements imply additional mastery of setting techniques on the finest possible components. Piaget is currently the only Manufacture to set gems directly on the mainplate of its movements, including the functional parts. This unique expertise calls for the closest possible collaboration between watchmakers and jewellers – thereby uniting the twin fields of in-house excellence.
The Manufacture reached a new milestone in 2005 by gem-setting, for the very first time, not only the decorative parts and additional plates on a skeleton movement, but indeed the entire gold main plate and the functional parts. Representing the ultimate embodiment of this know-how that is truly unique in the world, Calibre 600D (3.5 mm thin) was presented in 2005 and followed in 2010 by Calibre 838D (3.1 mm) – which prefigured another stunning illustration of the watchmaking art unveiled at the SIHH 2013: Calibre 1200D (2.4 mm), the first gem-set openworked automatic movement.
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 600D
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 600D
Manufacture Piaget ultra-thin mechanical hand-wound diamond-set skeleton tourbillon movement
The world’s thinnest hand-wound shaped tourbillon movement
Movement thickness: 3.5 mm (4.5 mm including carriage)
Casing dimensions: 12’’’3/4 x 10’’’ (ø 28.6 mm x 22.4 mm)
Number of jewels: 23
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: approx. 44 hours
Flying tourbillon positioned at 12 o’clock, one rotation per minute
Tourbillon carriage: 3 titanium bridges, weight of the tourbillon carriage: 0.2 g
Finishing: Sunburst guilloché motif on bridges, 18K white or pink gold mainplate set with 160 diamonds (approx. 0.4 ct) and 7 blue cabochon-cut sapphires (approx. 0.2 ct), mainplate and bridges circular-grained by hand, hand-drawn and hand-bevelled bridges and carriage
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds at 12 o’clock (flying tourbillon)
Numbered movement
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 838D
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 838D
Manufacture Piaget ultra-thin mechanical hand-wound diamond-set skeleton movement
Movement thickness: 3.1 mm
Casing dimensions: 12’’’ (ø 26.8 mm)
Number of jewels: 19
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz),balance with screws
Power reserve: approx. 60 hours
Finishing: 18K white gold mainplate set with 219 diamonds (approx. 0.6 ct) and 8 black cabochon-cut sapphires (approx. 0.2 ct), hand circular-grained mainplate and bridges, hand-drawn and hand-bevelled mainplate and bridges, sunburst guilloché motif on the case-back side, circular satin-brushed wheels, blued screws
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds at 10 o’clock
Available in an 18K pink gold version set with 219 diamonds (approx. 0.6 ct) and 8 cabochon-cut rubies (approx. 0.2 ct)
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 1200D
A descendant of the already automatic skeleton 1200S calibre and its unrivalled slenderness, Calibre 1200D is the 34th movement entirely developed and crafted by the Manufacture in 15 years. For this unprecedented feat part way between watchmaking and jewellery, the development alone mobilised the entire range of skills cultivated within the Manufacture for a full two years.
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 1200D
Reflecting Piaget’s unique mastery, this movement is the world’s thinnest in its category at 3.00 mm and is set with 259 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx.0.8 cts) and 11 black cabochon-cut sapphires (approx. 0.2 cts) within a 31.9 mm diameter. This exceptional gem-setting involves over four days of work for just one movement.
Piaget Ultrathin Calibre 1200D
Setting the entire mainplate entails also paving the functional parts – a constant challenge that only a rare breed of jewellers are capable of handling.
Technical details
Manufacture Piaget ultra-thin mechanical self-winding diamond-set skeleton movement
The world’s thinnest self-winding diamond-set skeleton movement
Movement thickness: 3 mm
Casing dimensions: 14 ¼ ’’’ (ø 31.9 mm)
Number of jewels: 26
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3Hz)
Power reserve: approx. 44 hours
Finishing: 18K white gold mainplate set with 259 brilliantcut diamonds (approx. 0.8 ct) and 11 black cabochon-cut sapphires (approx. 0.2 ct), hand-bevelled and hand-drawn mainplate and bridges, sunburst satin-brushed bridges, circular and sunburst brushed wheels, black screws, “P” fixed to the regulator-assembly as Piaget signature, black platinum oscillating weight
Functions: Hours, minutes
Considered today as the master of ultra-thin watchmaking, the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget is relentlessly pursuing this quest for excellence. Constantly reinventing its motto “Always do better than necessary”, and nurtured by this unique history that has forged exceptional mastery, Piaget achieves the perfect match between the art of horology, ultra-thin feats and exceptional design.
The Girard-Perregaux Manufacture, the pillar of its independence and creative force of the legendary Swiss watch brand conceives, develops and produces the components and the movements of its watches. In the logic of this global approach, it joins forces with the Group’s case and bracelet factory, the “Ateliers Bautte”, whose ultra-modern machine park enables the processing of a wide range of materials. Particularly innovative calibres are developed thanks to the Research and Development Department, as evidenced by its collection of fascinating “Haute Horlogerie” complications.
Girard-Perregaux is thus able to offer an extended range of both mechanical and quartz movements. It has notably a complete range of automatic mechanical movements. Symbolic of the Manufacture’s wealth of own production facilities, the four families presented here can equip all types of gents and ladies watches.
GP 2700, self-winding mechanical movement – 8 ¾ ‘’’
GP 3200, self-winding mechanical movement – 10 ½ ‘’’
GP 3300, self-winding mechanical movement – 11 ½ ‘’’
GP 4500, self-winding mechanical movement – 13 ¼ ‘’’
These four base calibre models act as the back born of Girard Perregaux mechanical timepieces. A brief description about Girard Perregaux calibres and complications is given below.
GP033Q0 – Perpetual Calendar and world time indication
Mechanical, self-winding
Calibre: 27.40 mm
Height: 7.03 mm
Jewels: 26
Frequency: 28,800 vib/h (4 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 46 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, world-time display with day/night indicator, perpetual calendar, moon phase indicator
GPFAY08 – Jackpot tourbillon
Mechanical, manual winding
Calibre: 38.60 x 32.60 mm
Height: 8.92 mm
Jewels: 38
Frequency: 21,600 vib/h (3 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 96 hours
Functions: Tourbillon, hours, minutes, small second on the Tourbillon, slot machine with chime mechanism
GP9600 – Tourbillon with three gold bridges, Automatic
Mechanical, self-winding
Calibre : 28.60 mm
Height : 6.22 mm
Jewels : 30
Frequency : 21,600 vib/h (3 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 48 hours
Functions : Tourbillon, hours, minutes, small second on the Tourbillon
GP9600CS – Tourbillon with three gold bridges, automatic, rectangular
Mechanical, self-winding
Calibre : 28.60 x 28.60 mm
Height : 6.22 mm
Jewels : 30
Frequency : 21,600 vib/h (3 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 48 hours
Functions : Tourbillon, hours, minutes, small second on the Tourbillon
GP9600S – Tourbillon with three gold bridges, Skeleton, automatic
Mechanical, self-winding
Calibre : 28.60 mm
Height : 6.22 mm
Jewels : 30
Frequency : 21,600 vib/h (3 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 48 hours
Functions : Tourbillon, hours, minutes, small second on the Tourbillon
GP9600.0S – Tourbillon with three sapphire bridges, AutomaticMechanical, self-winding
Calibre : 28.60 mm
Height : 6.22 mm
Jewels : 31
Frequency: 21,600 vib/h (3 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 48 hours
Functions: Tourbillon, hours, minutes, small second on the Tourbillon
GPME9899 – Opera I
Mechanical, manual winding
Diameter: 27,60 mm
Height: 7,69 mm
Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h – (3 Hz)
Jewels: 37
Power reserve: min. 75 h
Functions: Tourbillon, hour, minute, repeater on four gongs (hours, quarters and minutes – Westminster chime), small second on the Tourbillon
GPME0980 – Opera II
Mechanical, manual winding
Diameter: 28,00 mm
Height: 8,92 mm
Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h – (3 Hz)
Jewels: 37
Power reserve: min. 75 h
Functions: Tourbillon, hour, minute, repeater on four gongs (hours, quarters and minutes – Westminster chime), perpetual calendar, small second on the Tourbillon
GP00950 – Opera III
Mechanical, manual winding
Calibre : 31.60 mm
Height : 7.60 mm
Jewels : 45
Frequency : 28,800 vib/h (4 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 50 hours
Functions : Hours, minutes, small second, music upon demand or on the hour, melody selector, power reserve indicator for the music
GP2700
Mechanical, self-winding
Calibre : 19.40 mm
Height : 4.00 mm
Jewels : 32
Frequency : 28,800 vib/h (4 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 40 hours
Functions : Hours, minutes, seconds, date
GP3200
Mechanical, self-winding
Calibre : 23.90 mm
Height : 3.20 mm
Jewels : 26
Frequency : 28,800 vib/h (4 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 36 hours
Functions : Hours, minutes, seconds, date
GP3300
Mechanical, self-winding
Calibre : 26.20 mm
Height : 3.20 mm
Jewels : 27
Frequency : 28,800 vib/h (4 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 46 hours
Functions : Hours, minutes, seconds, date
GP4500
Mechanical, self-winding
Calibre : 30.60 mm
Height : 3.97 mm
Jewels : 28
Frequency : 28,800 vib/h (4 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 56 hours
Functions : Hours, minutes, seconds, date
GP033CO – ww.tc chronograph
Mechanical, self-winding
Calibre : 30.00 mm
Height : 8.48 mm
Jewels : 63
Frequency : 28,800 vib/h (4 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 46 hours
Functions : Hours, minutes, small second, world time with day/night indicator, chronograph, date
GP033CO – Column wheel chronograph
Mechanical, self-winding
Calibre : 23.90 mm
Height : 6.28 mm
Jewels : 38
Frequency : 28,800 vib/h (4 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 36 hours
Functions : Hours, minutes, small second, column wheel chronograph
GP033GO – ww.tc power reserve
Mechanical, self-winding
Calibre : 26.20 mm
Height : 5.46 mm
Jewels : 27
Frequency : 28,800 vib/h (4 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 46 hours
Functions : Hours, minutes, small second, world time with day/night indicator, power reserve indicator, date
GP033LO – Moon Phase
Mechanical, self-winding
Calibre : 26.20 mm
Height : 4.55 mm
Jewels : 32
Frequency : 28,800 vib/h (4 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 46 hours
Functions : Hours, minutes, small second, moon phase indicator
GP033M0-AL – Full Calendar
Mechanical, self-winding
Calibre : 26.20 mm
Height : 4.80 mm
Jewels : 27
Frequency : 28,800 vib/h (4 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 46 hours
Functions : Hours, minutes, seconds, full calendar (date, day, month, moon phases)
GP033M0-A0 – Triple Calendar
Mechanical, self-winding
Calibre : 26.20 mm
Height : 4.80 mm
Jewels : 27
Frequency : 28,800 vib/h (4 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 46 hours
Functions : Hours, minutes, seconds, triple calendar (day, date, month)
GP033MO.QL – Annual calendar and zodiac calendar
Mechanical, self-winding
Calibre : 26.20 mm
Height : 4.85 mm
Jewels : 40
Frequency : 28,800 vib/h (4 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 46 hours
Functions : Hours, minute, small second, annual calendar, zodiac calendar and moon phase indicator
GP03300MO.QE – Annual calendar and equation of time
Mechanical, self-winding
Calibre : 26.20 x 28.80 mm
Height : 4.85 mm
Jewels : 44
Frequency : 28,800 vib/h (4 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 46 hours
Functions : Hours, minutes, small second, annual calendar, equation of time
GP033WO-0022 – ww.tc small seconds
Mechanical, self-winding
Calibre : 27.40 mm
Height : 5.46 mm
Jewels : 32
Frequency : 28,800 vib/h (4 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 46 hours
Functions : Hours, minutes, small second, world-time display with day/night indicator
GP3330-6LM00 – Large Date, Moon Phases
Mechanical, self-winding
Calibre : 25.60 x 28.80 mm
Height : 4.90 mm
Jewels : 32
Frequency : 28,800 vib/h (4 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 46 hours
Functions : Hours, minutes, small second, large date, moon phase indicator
GP3330-RLM00 – Large Date, Moon Phases, power reserve
Mechanical, self-winding
Calibre : 25.60 x 28.80 mm
Height : 5.00 mm
Jewels : 35
Frequency : 28,800 vib/h (4 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 46 hours
Functions : Hours, minutes, small second,
large date, moon phase indicator,
power reserve indicator
GP03390 – Bi Retro (retrograde seconds, retrograde day of the week, moon phase indicator, date)
Mechanical, self-winding
Calibre: 27.00 mm
Height : 4.55 mm
Jewels : 36
Frequency : 28,800 vib/h (4 Hz)
Power reserve : min. 46 hours
Functions : Hours, minutes, retrograde seconds, retrograde day of the week, moon phase indicator, date
GP03300-39
Mechanical with automatic winding
Calibre: 11 ½’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: minimum 46 hours
Jewels: 28
Functions: hour, minute, small second, date
GP033M0
Mechanical with automatic winding
Calibre: 11 ½’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: minimum 46 hours
Jewels: 27
Functions: hour, minute, central second, full calendar with date, day of the week, month and moon phase indicators
Schwarz Etienne, a well established watch and movement manufacture based in Switzerland has announced the launch of three new exceptional mechanical watch movements. The first one (ASE) is an automatic movement featuring decentered motor mechanism. Second movement is a manual winding Calibre (MSE) and last one is an exceptional Tourbillon Movement (TSE).
1. ASE movement (Automatic movement with decentered micro rotor)
This high-end automatic movement launched in 2013 is entirely manufactured by Schwarz Etienne. 95% of its components are conceived in its own workshops, based in La Chaux-de-Fonds. This movement combines reliability, modularity and aesthetic fineness. The innovative point of the ASE conception, totally thought up and developed by Schwarz Etienne, is a decentered micro rotor mechanism. Another exclusive innovation: the oscillating weight is fixed by a clever self-blocking key. The ambitious construction has successfully faced technical challenges: micro rotor winding curve similar to the one of a standard centered rotor, not to say better, amplitude of 300° at 0h, inertia of 8 mg.cm2 and power reserve superior to 96h. This movement has already been through many wear and solidity tests and has achieved brilliant results. Its robustness and efficiency guaranty qualities of work that are indispensable for any high-end movement: reliability, durability and precision. Except for the sliding pinion, winding pinion and assortment, all the parts of the movement are conceived in Schwarz Etienne workshops.
The development of the ASE movement, as well as other Schwarz Etienne novelties, is based on the modularity and rationalization concepts. This innovative and patented construction is made of one common plate and one interchanging part that can fit either a micro rotor module (ASE movement) or a module with an additional barrel linked in parallel (MSE movement).
Moreover, the ASE has been designed to integrate complication modules conceived by Schwarz Etienne’s technical office. The second time zone indication (GMT) is even included in the volume of the original basic movement.
The modular philosophy allows anticipating future declinations of the movement to respond to high-end market requirements and satisfy demanding customers: reactivity, flexibility and competitiveness. Beyond the technical prowess, the ASE can be appreciated for its aesthetic fineness, faithful to the traditional fine watch-making spirit: balance specifically developed for Schwarz Etienne, with or without SE logo in the center, straight Côtes de Genève decorated bridges, polished angles, engraved rotor, or gold rimmed wheels.
Features
100% Swiss Made mechanical movement manufactured by Schwarz Etienne with Swiss pallets
Automatic winding by micro rotor
Micro rotor fixed by self-blocking key
213 components incl. 34 rubies (depending on assembling)
Stop second
Modular and evolutionary construction with common base
Designed to integrate complications
Autonomy >96h
Frequency 3 Hz (21’600 Alt/h)
Amplitude to 0h 300°
Balance with regulator screws / Inertia: 8 mg.cm2
Display
Hours, minutes centered
Small second at 6 o’clock (optional)
Second time zone indication (GMT) in the center (optional), correction with stem
Main dimensions
Overall diameter 30.40 mm (13 ¼’’’)
Casing diameter 30.00 mm
Stem height 2.45 mm
2. MSE movement (Manual movement with double barrels)
This high-end manual movement launched in 2013 is entirely manufactured by Schwarz Etienne. 95% of its components are conceived in the company workshops, based in La Chaux-de-Fonds. This movement combines power, modularity and aesthetic fineness.
The innovative point of the MSE conception, totally thought up and developed by Schwarz Etienne, is a mechanism with two barrels coupled in parallel. That exclusive construction allows distributing exceptional power of 1.55 μw at the escapement to each additional module.
The ambitious construction has successfully faced technical challenges: amplitude of 300° at 0h, inertia of 16 mg.cm2 and power reserve superior to 96h. This movement has already been through many wear and solidity tests and has achieved brilliant results. Its power and robustness guaranty qualities of work that are indispensable for any high-end movement: reliability, durability and precision.
The development of the MSE movement, as well as other Schwarz Etienne novelties, is based on modularity and rationalization concepts. This innovative and patented construction is made of one common plate and one interchanging part that can fit either a module with an additional barrel linked in parallel (MSE movement) or a micro rotor module (ASE movement).
Moreover, the MSE has been designed to integrate complication modules conceived by Schwarz Etienne’s technical office. The second time zone indication (GMT) and the power reserve indicator (PRI) are even included in the volume of the original basic movement. Furthermore, the power reserve display can be positioned at 9 o’clock or 1:30. The modular philosophy allows anticipating future declinations of the movement to respond to high-end market requirements and satisfy demanding customers: reactivity, flexibility and competitiveness.
Beyond the technical prowess, the MSE can be appreciated for its aesthetic fineness, faithful to the traditional fine watchmaking spirit: balance especially developed for Schwarz Etienne, with or without SE logo in the center, straight Côtes de Genève decorated bridges, polished angles, or gold rimmed wheels. Except for the sliding pinion, winding pinion and assortment, all the parts of the movement are conceived in Schwarz Etienne workshops.
Features
Swiss Made mechanical movement manufactured by Schwarz Etienne with Swiss pallets
Manual winding
Double barrels coupled in parallel
230 components, incl. 38 rubies (depending on assembling)
Stop second
Modular and evolutionary construction with common base
Designed to integrate any complication module
Autonomy >96h
Frequency 3 Hz (21’600 Alt/h)
Amplitude to 0h 300°
Balance with regulator screws / Inertia: 16 mg.cm2
Display
Hours, minutes centered
Small second at 6 o’clock (optional)
Power reserve indication (PRI) at 9 o’clock or 1:30 (optional),
120° hand display
Second time zone indication (GMT) in the center (optional), correction with stem
Main dimensions
Overall diameter 30.40 mm (13 ¼’’’)
Casing diameter 30.00 mm
Stem height 2.45 mm
Movement height 5.35 mm (integrated PRI and GMT)
Movement height 5.35 mm (integrated GMT)
3. TSE movement (Manual Tourbillon movement)
This high-end tourbillon movement launched in 2013 is entirely manufactured by Schwarz Etienne, in partnership with Chronode SA. The TSE movement combines technical virtuosity and aesthetic fineness.
This device has been invented to eliminate errors of rate in the vertical positions. It consists of a mobile cage carrying all the parts of the escapement, with the balance in the center. The escape pinion turns about the fixed fourth wheel. The cage makes one revolution per minute, thus annulling errors of rate in the vertical positions. This delicate, complex mechanism is one of the most ingenious mechanical watch making devices.
Beyond technical performances, the TSE can be appreciated for its aesthetic fineness, faithful to the traditional fine watchmaking spirit: bridge cage especially developed for Schwarz Etienne, taking the SE logo in the center, straight Côtes de Genève decorated bridges, polished angles, or gold rimmed wheels.
Features
Swiss made tourbillon mechanical movement
Manufactured by Schwarz Etienne in partnership with Chronode SA
Manual winding
23 rubies
153 components, incl. 57 components for the tourbillon cage
Designed to integrate any complication module
Autonomy >60 h
Frequency 3 Hz (21’600 Alt/h)
Balance with regulator screws / Inertia: 9 mg.cm2
Swiss watch movement producer Ronda is presenting a new promising development for watch brands world-wide. This year will see the market launch of Ronda xtratech as a new product line. The quartz movement presented at Baselworld is known as Z60. It is the first-ever Ronda 13¼‘‘‘ size calibre with chronograph function. Aside from the center stop second and the 30-minute counter, the popular 3-6-9 look boasts a day indicator, a date and a small second. The Z60 features a diameter of 30.00 mm and a movement height of 4.60 mm.
With the xtratech the name says it all: a Swiss Made movement offering everything a chronograph needs. Not a feature more and not a feature less. In fact, the ideal product for watches in the fashion range, where demand runs high for useful functions at attractive prices.
With the new diameter of 30.00 mm, Ronda now has on offer to the watchmaker a range of four chronograph sizes : Startech 3500 series with 10½ x 11½‘‘‘ and Startech 5000 series with 12½‘‘‘. And, last but not least, there are the shortly to be marketed xtratech Z60 with 13¼‘‘‘ and the Mastertech Serie 8000 series with 15‘‘‘.
Features
Chronograph with day indicator and regular date
Swiss Made quartz movement – nickel plated
Size 13¼’’’
Diameter 30.00 mm / Height 4.60 mm
3-eye chronograph with positions 3-6-9
Center stop second
30-minute counter
ADD and SPLIT functions
Day indicator
Date
Small second
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