MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO in Titanium

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO is the sportier version of the award-winning LM Perpetual Calendar watch created in collaboration with Stephen McDonnell.

Designed to meet the specifications of an outdoor sports watch, this model features a 44mm diameter case and a specially developed monobloc shock-absorbing system known as “FlexRing”. The LM Perpetual EVO was first launched in zirconium with three options of PVD/CVD dial-plate colour, including atomic orange. A grade 5 titanium edition follows in 2021, with a green CVD dial plate. All editions feature a closely-fitted, integrated rubber strap.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO in Titanium

Although the 44mm diameter is unchanged from its 2015 iteration, the new EVO case design features a no-bezel construction, with the domed sapphire crystal fused directly to the case. The increased openness of this design highlights the equilibrium between the legibility of LM Perpetual EVO’s calendar indications and the cinematic play of the engine components — surmounted by the iconic MB&F hovering balance wheel.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO in Titanium

This expansive new presentation of the LM Perpetual Engine was no simple design reconfiguration. New geometries for the sapphire crystal had to be calculated, achieving the mechanically opposing aims of maintaining structural strength and decreasing its height-to-diameter ratio. Freeing LM Perpetual EVO from the bezel also necessitated the use of a sophisticated thermal bonding system between the sapphire crystal and the case.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO in Titanium

The previously circular pushers for adjusting the perpetual calendar have been enlarged into double-sprung oblong actuators, boosting the tactile comfort and ease of adjustment. For the first time in any MB&F creation, the LM Perpetual EVO is rated at 80m of water resistance, enabled by its screw-down crown.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO in Titanium

A small, but essential, detail of implementing a screw-down crown is the débrayage of the winding stem, disengaging the crown from the winding mechanism when it is pushed in and tightened, which eliminates the chance of manually over-winding the mainspring barrel.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO in Titanium

An additional new element of the LM Perpetual EVO is the FlexRing: an annular dampener fitted between case and movement, providing shock protection along the vertical and lateral axes. Machined from a single block of stainless steel, the dampener imparts exceptional robustness to the timepiece.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO in Titanium

Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO was first launched in three variations of 15 pieces each in zirconium with orange CVD dial plate, blue CVD dial plate or black PVD dial plate; and is now available in titanium with a green CVD dial plate.

Technical details

Model: MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO in Titanium

Engine
Fully integrated perpetual calendar developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell, featuring dial-side complication and mechanical processor system architecture with inbuilt safety mechanism. Manual winding with double mainspring barrels. Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement. Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings.
Galvanic black dials with both SLN numerals and hands(except for the leap year and power reserve)
FlexRing: an annular dampener fitted between case and movement, providing shock protection along the vertical and lateral axes.
Screw down crown
Power reserve: 72 hours
Balance frequency: 18,000bph/ 2.5Hz
Number of components: 581
Number of jewels: 41

Functions/indications
Hours, minutes, day, date, month, retrograde leap year and power reserve indicators

Case
Material: Zirconium or Titanium
Dimensions: 44 x 17.5mm
Number of components: 70
Water resistance: 8ATM / 80m / 270 feet

Sapphire crystals
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces

Strap & buckle
Rubber strap with titanium folding buckle

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual, in Palladium 950

In 2015, MB&F created the LM Perpetual watch in collaboration with Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell. This new reinvention of perpetual calendar has been developed to eliminate the drawbacks of conventional perpetual calendars. Equipped with a spectacular in-house movement, this Legacy Machine has been released in various editions in red gold, platinum, white gold, titanium, and yellow gold.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual, in Palladium 950

The Legacy Machine Perpetual was the winner of the Best Calendar Watch Prize at the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) in 2016.

In 2021, a new limited edition of 25 pieces joins the series. Crafted in palladium 950, this new variant features an aquamarine sunray dial varying between shades of pale blue, green and grey. This new Legacy Machine also features the ergonomic corrector pushers first seen on the LM Perpetual EVO editions.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual, in Palladium 950

Its fully integrated 581-component calibre boasts an innovative mechanism for calculating the number of days in each month. And it holistically reinterprets the aesthetics of the perpetual calendar by placing the full complication on dial-free display underneath a spectacular suspended balance.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual, in Palladium 950

Traditional perpetual calendars have a few drawbacks: dates can skip; they are relatively easy to damage if adjusted while the date is changing; and the complications are usually compromises of modules powered by base movements. The fully integrated movement of Legacy Machine Perpetual has been designed to solve these issues. No more skipping dates or jamming gears, and the adjuster pushers automatically deactivate when the calendar changes.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual, in Palladium 950

Traditional perpetual calendar mechanisms use a 31-day month as the default and basically “delete” surplus dates for the months with fewer days – by fast-forwarding through the redundant dates during changeover. A traditional perpetual calendar changing from February 28 to March 1 scrolls quickly through the 29th, 30th and 31st to arrive at the 1st.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual, in Palladium 950

The perpetual calendar system of LM Perpetual features a “mechanical processor” instead of the conventional grand levier (big lever) system architecture. The mechanical processor utilises a default 28-day month and adds extra days as required. This means that each month always has the exact number of days required; there is no fast-forwarding or skipping redundant days. And while the leap year can only be set on traditional perpetual calendars by scrolling through up to 47 months, LM Perpetual has a dedicated quickset pusher to adjust the year.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual, in Palladium 950

The open dial of LM Perpetual generously reveals the full complication and suspended balance. Using an innovative system developed especially for Legacy Machine Perpetual, the sub-dials appear to “float” above the movement with no visible attachments. The skeletonised sub-dials rest on hidden studs, which is technically impossible with traditional perpetual calendar mechanisms because they would block the movement of the grand levier.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual, in Palladium 950

At 12 o’clock and nestled between the elegant arches of the balance, is the off-set dial featuring hour and minute hands. The open-worked dial structure also features day of the week at 3 o’clock, power reserve indicator at 4 o’clock, month at 6 o’clock, retrograde leap year indicator at 7 o’clock, and date at 9 o’clock.

Technical details

Model: Legacy Machine Perpetual in palladium 950 with aquamarine face

Edition
Limited to 25 pieces

Engine
Fully integrated perpetual calendar developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell, featuring dial-side complication and mechanical processor system architecture with inbuilt safety mechanism. Manual winding with double mainspring barrels. Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement. Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings.
Power reserve: 72 hours
Balance frequency: 18,000bph/ 2.5Hz
Number of components: 581
Number of jewels: 41

Functions/indications
Hours, minutes, day, date, month, retrograde leap year and power reserve indicators

Case
Material: Palladium 950
Dimensions: 44 mm x 17.5 mm
Number of components: 69 components
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces
Water resistance: 30 m / 90′ / 3 ATM

Strap
Black, grey, brown or blue hand-stitched alligator strap with gold / platinum / titanium folding buckle matching case material.

Other versions
Platinum 950 version with blue face: limited to 25 pieces
18k red gold version with grey face: limited to 25 pieces
18k white gold version with purple face: limited to 25 pieces
18k white gold version with dark grey face
Grade 5 titanium version with green face: limited to 50 pieces
18k yellow gold version with blue face: limited to 25 pieces

MB&F HM10 Panda for Only Watch

To support the ninth edition of Only Watch biennial charity auction, MB&F created a one-of-a-kind horological machine christened HM10 Panda.

This is the sixth contribution to Only Watch charity event with its proceedings go to fund research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, a genetic disorder mostly affecting young boys.

MB&F HM10 Panda for Only Watch

The unique piece created for this year’s Only Watch is based on MB&F Horological Machine N°10, which boasts a rounded, compact body inspired by the shape of a Panda. Coated in black and white lacquer, its top section of this stainless steel case mimics the animal’s colouring.

MB&F HM10 Panda for Only Watch

The bottom segment of the timepiece is made of Grade 5 titanium, and then treated with Preci-Coat matt black PVD. Along with two black titanium ears on the sapphire crystal dome and the ceramic tail, the case evoke a Panda.

MB&F HM10 Panda for Only Watch

The two black aluminium time-display domes are similar to panda’s eyes. As a nod to the highly sought-after Panda dials, this unique timepiece features a white dial background with two black indicators.

The HM10 Panda is equipped with an in-house developed manual winding movement. It offers a power reserve of 45 hours when fully-wound.

MB&F HM10 Panda for Only Watch

A three-dimensional, panda teeth-shaped power reserve indicator displays the status of mainspring: a fully closed mouth means it needs winding up and. When the mainspring is fully wound, you can observe the rows of shining teeth lining the jaws. This playful mechanism has been designed to consume the least amount of energy.

MB&F HM10 Panda for Only Watch 2021

Despite its unseal shape and massive size (45mm across, 54mm from nose to tail and 24mm height), the HM10 Panda offers optimum comfort for the wrists, thanks to its sprung strap attachment “legs” that allow the case to fit closely around the wrist. Its hand-stitched leather strap has one side in black and the other in white.

MB&F HM10 Panda for Only Watch

For this unique piece, MB&F has also collaborated with Lee Yuen-Rapati, an interdisciplinary artist renowned for his horology inspired art works. Known for his playful, narrative-based illustrations, Lee has created several artworks to perfectly illustrate the HM10 Panda concept.

The Only Watch 2021 event will take place in Geneva on 6th November. The MB&F HM10 Panda for Only Watch is accompanied by a series of illustrations created by multidisciplinary designer Lee Yuen-Rupati.

Technical details

Model: HM10 PANDA FOR ONLY WATCH

Engine
Manual-winding in-house movement
Frequency: 2.5Hz (18,000bph)
Bespoke flying 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the domed dials
Super-LumiNova on the hour and minute domes and markers
Single barrel with 45 hours of power reserve
301 components, 34 jewels
Left crown at 11 o’clock for winding; right crown at 1 o’clock for setting the time

Functions/indications
Hours on left dome (aluminium dome rotating in 12 hours)
Minutes on right dome (aluminium dome rotating in 60 minutes)
Power reserve indicated in 3D by the opening and closing of the panda’s teeth (end of power reserve = closed jaws)

Case
Top section: stainless steel, with 5 pockets of black lacquer and 2 pockets of white lacquer (each with 3 layers of colour and 7 layers of varnish).
Bottom section: Grade 5 titanium, with Preci-Coat matt black PVD. Specially engraved with Only Watch signature: “Only Watch – create beauty to do good”
Lugs: Grade 5 titanium with Preci-Coat matt black PVD.
Ears: Grade 5 titanium, fused to the sapphire crystal dome with Asulab bonding.
Tail: Ceramic (Grade 5 silicon nitride sphere)
Dimensions: 54mm x 45mm x 24mm
Water resistant to 5ATM / 50m / 160ft
Sapphire crystals: Both sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces.

Strap
Hand-stitched black and white strap with one side in black and the other in white

MB&F LEGACY MACHINE 101 (Edition 2021)

MB&F updates its LEGACY MACHINE 101, one of the brand’s most compact machines.

Introduced in 2014, the Legacy Machine 101 (LM101) watch features a 40mm diameter case and a hand-wound mechanical movement entirely conceived by MB&F’s in-house engineering team.

MB&F LEGACY MACHINE 101 (Edition 2021)

In 2021, the LM101 series welcomes technically and aesthetically-upgraded versions in 18k white gold, 18k 5N+red gold and stainless steel. These new watches boast colourful dial plates. In the upgraded edition, the bezel and “Legacy Machine” engraving on the dial have been omitted to highlight the time and power reserve, indicated on slightly larger sub-dials. The signature “flying” balance wheel inherits a double hairspring.

MB&F LEGACY MACHINE 101 (Edition 2021)

The dial side of LM 101 is dominated by a massive suspended balance wheel. Two pristine-white sub-dials hover just above the fine sunray engraved movement top plate. At the top right, highly legible hours and minutes are displayed by blued-gold hands, while the 45-hour power reserve indicator is displayed in a smaller, but similar sub-dial below.

MB&F LEGACY MACHINE 101 (Edition 2021)

Below the highly domed sapphire crystal glass that protects the dial, the balance wheel hangs from elegant twin arches. The arches are milled from a solid block of metal and require many hours of hand polishing to achieve their mirror-like lustre.

MB&F LEGACY MACHINE 101 (Edition 2021)

Its domed display back crystal reveals the exquisitely hand-finished movement. Sensually curved plates and bridges pay homage to the style found in high quality historic pocket watches.

MB&F LEGACY MACHINE 101 (Edition 2021)

The LM101 movement was designed and constructed in-house by MB&F. The award-winning independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen took the responsibility of its haute-horlogerie finishing and decoration, including undulating Geneva waves, hand polished bevels, gold chatons and countersunk blued screws.

MB&F LEGACY MACHINE 101 (Edition 2021)

LM101 was first launched in 18k red or white gold, then in two limited ‘Frost’ editions with frosted finishing (18 and 33 pieces), followed by limited editions of 33 pieces in platinum 950 and 18 pieces in palladium.

The 2021 upgraded versions are available in 18k white gold with a purple dial plate, 18k 5N+ red gold with a royal blue dial plate, and stainless steel with a light blue dial.

Technical details

Engine
Three-dimensional horological movement developed in-house by MB&F
Movement aesthetics and finishing specifications: Kari Voutilainen
Manual winding with single mainspring barrel
Power reserve: 45 hours
Balance wheel: Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the movement
Balance spring: Traditional Breguet curve terminating in mobile stud holder; Straumann® double hairspring for the 2021 editions
Balance frequency: 18,000bph/2.5Hz
Number of components: 229 components / 231 for the 2021 editions
Number of jewels: 23 jewels
Chatons: gold chatons with polished countersinks
Fine finishing: superlative 19th century-style hand finishing throughout; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings, NAC black bridges for the 2021 editions and frosted dial plate for the “Frost editions”.

Functions
Hours, minutes and power reserve indicator
Large balance wheel suspended above the dial

Case
First editions in 18k red gold or 18k white gold, in platinum 950 (33 pieces) and in palladium 950 (18 pieces)
Two frosted editions in 18k red gold (33 pieces) and 18k yellow gold (18 pieces).
2021 Editions in 18k white gold, 18k 5N+red gold and stainless steel
Diameter: 40.0 mm
Height: 16.0 mm
Number of components: 35
High domed crystal sapphire on top and box sapphire crystal on back, both with anti-reflective coating on both sides

Strap
Hand-stitched alligator or veal strap with gold, platinum, stainless steel or palladium buckle to match the case

MB&F LMX

Introduced in 2021, MB&F LMX celebrates the 10th anniversary of the brand’s Legacy Machines.

LMX is available in two limited launch editions: 18 pieces in 18k red gold with black NAC treatment on plates and bridges and 33 pieces in grade 5 titanium with green CVD treatment on plates and bridges.

MB&F LMX

In October 2011, MB&F launched Legacy Machine N°1, the first creation of a new collection, alongside the existing Horological Machines. The brand’s most revolutionary creation since its founding, the very first Legacy Machine (LM1) features a round case, a first for MB&F. It also has white lacquered dials, blued hands, and a “flying” balance wheel oscillating under a domed crystal. The suspended balance became a signature feature of the Legacy Machine collection. The successors of LM1 also followed this ground-breaking design.

MB&F LMX

The Legacy Machine No1 movement was created in collaboration with Jean-François Mojon and Kari Voutilainen. In 2015, LM Perpetual was released in partnership with Stephen McDonnell. Introduced in 2019, the LM Thunderdome was developed with multi-axis tourbillon expert Eric Coudray. In addition, MB&F began developing its own movements during this decade and the LMX engine is the sixth fully conceived by the brand’s in-house engineering team.

MB&F LMX

Celebrating the 10th anniversary of the LM1 series, the LMX watch has two dials of stretched white lacquer, each with its own display of hours and minutes. The dial on the right is set by the crown at the 2 o’clock position, which bears an engraving of the MB&F battle-axe and also winds the movement.

MB&F LMX movement

The crown at 10 o’clock, engraved with a globe to acknowledge the potential use of a second time zone, sets the time of the left dial. Unlike the first Legacy Machines however, both dials are tilted at an angle – a more complex feature present on the most recent Legacy Machines, requiring the transfer of energy from horizontal to vertical planes thanks to conical gears.

MB&F LMX movement

While the first few Legacy Machines took a selective approach to what was showcased between dial plate and sapphire crystal dome, later models such as LM Perpetual, LM FlyingT and LM Thunderdome were more open and demonstrative about their mechanical prowess. LMX follows this latter approach, revealing functional elements such as the battle-axe-shaped escapement bridge and gear-train components.

MB&F LMX

Three large wheels are particularly visible: placed next to each winding crown, two are set in motion when setting the time on the corresponding time display, while the gear at 6 o’clock is the common seconds’ wheel.

The new bespoke balance wheel with inertia blocks marks a departure from the more traditional screwed balances and offers greater accuracy to the watchmaker in regulating the heart of LMX. The polished arms of the straight bridges exposed on the dial plate are manually finished to impart a curved profile on their upper surfaces.

MB&F LMX

Inspired by the vertical power reserve indicator of Legacy Machine No1, LMX boasts an innovative three-dimensional display that showcases the horological engine’s impressive seven days (168 hours) of power reserve. It also offers the option to select between two modes of counting down the power reserve. Two markers are positioned on opposite sides of a hemisphere; one framed by an arched scale numbered 1 to 7, another with a scale showing the days of the week.

MB&F LMX

By rotating of the entire power-reserve display itself, the wearer can choose their preferred mode of power-reserve indication: by continuing to wind the battle-axe crown even after the power reserve is fully replenished, wearers can adjust the orientation of the indication to make the day or numeric scale more visible when LMX is on the wrist.

MB&F LMX

The movement of LMX is deeply symmetrical – not only dial-side but also as observed through the sapphire case back, revealing the three barrels placed evenly around the centre, accentuated by the sunray pattern of the Côtes de Genève finishing.

Technical details

Model: LMX

Edition
– Limited edition of 18 pieces in polished 18k 5N+ red gold with black NAC treatment on plates and bridges
– Limited edition of 33 pieces in polished grade 5 titanium with green CVD treatment on plates and bridges

Engine
Three-dimensional horological movement developed exclusively by MB&F
Manual winding with three mainspring barrels
Power reserve: 7 days (168 hours)
Balance wheel: new bespoke 13.4mm balance wheel with inertia blocks, floating above the movement
Time display on two inclined dials in stretched lacquer
Balance spring: traditional Breguet curve terminating in mobile stud holder
Balance frequency: 18,000bph/2.5Hz
Number of components: 367
Number of jewels: 41
Chatons: gold chatons with diamond countersinks
Fine finishing: superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings; polished arms of the straight bridges exposed on the dial plate, manually finished to a curved “bercé” profile on their upper surfaces.

Functions
Hours and minutes: completely independent dual time zones displayed on two dials.
Unique hemispherical power reserve with choice of weekday or 7-day indication; rotates to adjust the preferred power reserve indication.
Left crown at 10 o’clock for setting time of left dial; right crown at 2 o’clock for setting time of right dial and winding

Case
Two launch editions: 18k 5N+ red gold case limited to 18 pieces or grade 5 titanium case limited to 33 pieces
Dimensions: 44 mm wide x 21.4 mm high
Number of components: 27
High domed sapphire crystal on top and sapphire crystal on back with anti-reflective coating on both sides

Strap
Black hand-stitched alligator strap with 5N+ gold folding buckle for red gold version, and grey hand-stitched alligator strap with titanium folding buckle for titanium edition.

MB&F Horological Machine N°9 ‘Sapphire Vision’

Introduced in 2018, the MB&F Horological Machine N°9 – nicknamed HM9 ‘Flow’ – was a tribute to the extraordinary automotive and aeronautic designs of the 1940s and the 1950s. Now, two years after the initial HM9 Flow ‘Air’ and ‘Road’ editions, MB&F presents a new version, the HM9 ‘Sapphire Vision’.

MB&F Horological Machine N°9 ‘Sapphire Vision’

The new horological machine features an outer hull of sapphire crystal and precious metal, curved and bubbled and precisely fitted together in three parts, is sealed with a proprietary combination of patented three-dimensional gasket and high-tech compound bonding process.

Two fully independent cantilevered balances channel data into a differential that turns two heartbeats into one coherent time-pulse. Ultra-precise conical gears efficiently turn the engine’s energy and information current through a 90° angle to feed the time display on a sapphire crystal dial, marked with Super-LumiNova.

MB&F Horological Machine N°9 ‘Sapphire Vision’

The laws of fluid dynamics remain dominant in its design, although the hydro-governed objectives allow HM9-SV to take a more lenient approach to the sharp inward angles and parabolic curves of the previous Flow versions. From a technical standpoint, the reworked dimensions were necessary to account for the differences in material properties of sapphire crystal; although extremely hard, sapphire can fracture sharply under pressure whereas a metal would merely deform. The smoother lines of HM9-SV diminish potential areas of mechanical vulnerability.

MB&F Horological Machine N°9 ‘Sapphire Vision’

The HM9 engine follows in the paths opened by the engines of Horological Machines N°4 and N°6, casting aside conventions of movement construction. Its three-dimensional assemblage of wheels, gears, plates and bridges takes unexpected forms to inhabit the dynamic outer case, a beating union of mechanical viscera and endoskeleton in a crystalline body.

MB&F Horological Machine N°9 ‘Sapphire Vision’

A traditional balance frequency of 2.5Hz (18,000vph) may seem curiously anachronistic in a modern timekeeper, but the sensitivity to shock associated with a lower beat rate is compensated for by having two balances instead of one. Statistically speaking, two identically calibrated systems offer a better averaged reading than one system on its own, which may deliver anomalous results for any number of reasons.

MB&F Horological Machine N°9 ‘Sapphire Vision’

To further reduce sensitivity to shocks, the HM9-SV editions feature a new shock-absorbing system: helicoidal springs placed between the movement and the case. The springs are crafted by laser from a solid tube of polished stainless steel, offering excellent elasticity and limited lateral displacement.

Performing the task of averaging the time measurement from the twin balances of the HM9 engine is a planetary differential, the gearbox of the movement, which then delivers a final reading to be displayed on the perpendicularly oriented dial.

MB&F Horological Machine N°9 ‘Sapphire Vision’

This complex mechanical computation was partially revealed in the original HM9 Flow, with sapphire crystal domes set over each balance and with a magnifying pane mounted above the planetary differential, visually emphasising the importance of its chronometric role. In HM9-SV, every aspect of the engine is open to discovery; the eye can follow the interplay of components from barrel to balance, from differential to dial.

MB&F Horological Machine N°9 ‘Sapphire Vision’

In order to seal the sapphire crystal exterior components into one watertight case, new solutions had to be created. A patented three-dimensional rubber gasket was already used in the original HM9 Flow to ensure water resistance when the tripartite case was bolted together.

The 3-D gasket remains in HM9-SV, but the sapphire crystals are fused with the metallic frame thanks to a high-tech bonding compound, mastered via an in-house process. The result is a seal resistant to 3ATM (30m) of water pressure, despite practically invisible seams between the sapphire components and the minimalistic frame in 18K gold.

MB&F Horological Machine N°9 ‘Sapphire Vision’

HM9 Sapphire Vision comes in four editions, each limited to only five pieces: two editions with 18K red gold frame, combined with a NAC-coated black or a PVD-coated blue engine; and two editions with 18K white gold frame, featuring a PVD-coated purple or a red gold plated engine.

MB&F Horological Machine N°9 ‘Sapphire Vision’

The result of three years of development, the HM9 engine is conceived and assembled entirely in-house. Its double-balance system with differential is descended from the similar mechanism in Legacy Machine N°2, albeit in vastly different aesthetic form. Whereas LM2 emphasised design purity and the hallucinatory effect of its suspended oscillators, HM9 is exultant in its celebration of expressive design.

Two balances beating within the same movement will inevitably bring up discussions of resonance, the mechanical phenomenon that describes linked oscillators in a state of mutual harmonic excitation. As with the LM2 engine, Horological Machine N°9 deliberately avoids inducing the resonance effect. Its purpose in including two balance wheels is to obtain discrete sets of chronometric data that can be translated by a differential to produce one stable averaged reading. This purpose would be defeated by two balances oscillating perfectly in phase, giving the same chronometric data at every point.

Regulating the twin balances is a challenge in its own category. Industry-standard equipment used in regulating a watch balance assembly uses the sound given off by an oscillating balance to measure beat rate. Because the HM9 engine has two balance assemblies operating simultaneously, creating two sets of sounds, this method is not possible here.

When first launched in 2018, each example of Horological Machine N°9 had to be regulated by first blocking one balance to regulate the remaining one, and vice versa. When both balances were allowed to run, the calibration would shift slightly, requiring multiple rounds of re-blocking and re-regulating before an optimal chronometric result was achieved.

Technical details

Model: HM9-SV

HM9 Sapphire Vision comes in four editions, each limited to only five pieces:
– two editions with 18K 5N+ red gold frame, combined with a NAC-coated black or PVD-coated blue engine;
– two editions with 18K white gold frame, featuring a PVD-coated purple or red gold-plated engine.

Engine
Manual-winding in-house movement
Two fully independent balance wheels with planetary differential
Frequency: 2.5Hz (18,000bph)
Single barrel with 45-hour power reserve
301 components, 52 jewels
Hours and minutes on vertical dial display
Dual spherical turbines under the movement
Shock-absorbing helicoidal springs linking the movement to the case

Case
‘SV’ editions in sapphire crystal with frame in 18K white or red gold (5N+)
Hour/minute dial in sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment and Super-LumiNova on the numbers and indexes
Dimensions: 57mm x 47mm x 23mm
52 components
Water resistant to 3ATM (30m)
Unique assembly process of the three sapphire crystal case parts with a patented three-dimensional gasket and high-tech bonding compound.

Sapphire crystals
Total of five sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating: three crystals for the main components of the case, one crystal covering the dial, and one crystal for the dial itself.

Strap and buckle
Hand-stitched brown or black alligator strap with red or white gold folding buckle matching the case.

MB&F Horological Machine N°3 ‘FROGX’ Limited Edition

MB&F presents Horological Machine N°3 “FrogX”, a new interpretation of the much loved HM3 “Frog” watch.

The HM3 “Frog” was introduced in 2010 as a part of the Horological Machine HM3 series by Maximilian Büsser& Friends. Aptly named, this watch features a daring design inspired by the shape of a frog. The hours and minutes are indicated via two bulbous domes resembling the eyes of frog. The occasional bright flicker of the signature MB&F battle-axe rotor mimics the action of frog’s mouth. The HM3 “Frog” is one of the best loved watches from MB&F.

MB&F Horological Machine N°3 ‘FROGX’ Limited Edition

Dressed in a sapphire crystal case, the new HM3 “FrogX” watch takes inspiration from the transparent-skinned glass frogs of Central American cloud forests. The HM3 FrogX 10th anniversary limited editions are available in three versions of 10 pieces each with blue, purple or turquoise rotors and matching colours of Super-LumiNova and case gaskets.

MB&F Horological Machine N°3 ‘FROGX’ Limited Edition

Horological Machine N°3 was first presented in 2009, and in its six years of production became MB&F’s most popular model. Before FrogX, the case and movement architecture gave rise to 19 previous variations: HM3 Starcruiser in red and white gold, HM3 Sidewinder in red and white gold, HM3 ReBel, JWLRYMACHINE in purple and pink versions, HM3 Frog Ti, HM3 Chocolate Frog, HM3 Black Frog (green rotor), HM3 Frog Zr (purple rotor), HM3 Fire Frog, HM3 Poison Dart Frog, MoonMachine in titanium, black and red gold variations, MegaWind in red and white gold and the 2015 MegaWInd Final Edition.

MB&F Horological Machine N°3 ‘FROGX’ Limited Edition

HM3 FrogX incorporates the distinctive HM3 engine in its MegaWind Final Edition version. Harmoniously crafted bridges, the oscillating balance wheel, gearing and MB&F’s iconic battle-axe automatic winding rotor are all open to view on the dial side.

MB&F Horological Machine N°3 ‘FROGX’ Limited Edition

The engine of HM3, built by award-winning master watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, is based on a Girard-Perregaux calibre, which has been literally turned upside down to allow for an uninterrupted view of the enlarged 22k gold and titanium winding rotor and the oscillations of the balance wheel.

MB&F Horological Machine N°3 ‘FROGX’ Limited Edition

Time indications are usually located on the top, or dial side, of a movement. As the HM3 engine is inverted to display its operation, an efficient solution was needed to bring power from the bottom of the movement to the time-indication domes at the top. Standard pinions set in jewels would have required complex, friction-generating gearing, and would require support top and bottom — a factor which would increase the height of the movement, and thus the watch.

MB&F Horological Machine N°3 ‘FROGX’ Limited Edition

Instead of standard jewelled pinions, HM3 features two large-diameter (15mm) high-tech ceramic bearings. Because of their large diameter, these bearings minimise the number of friction inducing gears and, due to the rigidity resulting from their ultra-high precision design and manufacture, they only require support at one end (the base), allowing for a thinner movement.

MB&F Horological Machine N°3 ‘FROGX’ Limited Edition

The two 22K gold blades of the MB&F battle-axe rotor make what is called a “mystery” rotor because, in appearing to be symmetrically balanced instead of having a visibly off-centred mass, they seem to defy the laws of physics. This is achieved by machining the underside of one of the gold blades to a razor-thin edge, so reducing its mass.

MB&F Horological Machine N°3 ‘FROGX’ Limited Edition

To create the secret battle-axe signal, MB&F worked with light-sculpting techniques pioneered by Rayform, a Swiss company whose technology has various applications, from design to anti-counterfeiting measures.

Technical details

Model: HM3 FROGX

Edition
HM3 FrogX 10th anniversary limited editions in sapphire crystal: 3 x 10 pieces in blue, purple or turquoise

Movement
Three-dimensional horological engine designed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht / Agenhor, powered by a Girard-Perregaux base.
Balance frequency: 4Hz / 28,800 bph
Battle-axe automatic winding rotor in 22k gold and titanium with blue, purple or turquoise CVD coating matching the case gasket
Hours and minutes transmitted via ceramic ball bearings to rotating domes.
Number of components: 277
Number of jewels: 36
Super-LumiNova segments under the battle-axe and on the hour and minute domes.

Functions
Hours on one dome (aluminium dome rotating in 12 hours).
Minutes on second dome (aluminium dome rotating in 60 minutes).
“Secret message” crown reflects light rays to project the MB&F battle-axe icon (Rayform technology).

Case
Material: sapphire crystal
Domes, bezel and back with anti-reflective treatment on each face
Gasket in blue, purple or turquoise matching the battle-axe rotor
Dimensions: 48.3 mm x 52.7 mm x 17.5mm
Number of components: 59
Water resistance: 30 m / 90 feet / 3atm

Dials
Rotating aluminium domes – 0.58g

Strap
Hand-stitched alligator strap with titanium custom designed folding buckle.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO

MB&F’s latest timepiece Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO is dedicated to those fine watch connoisseurs who loves an adventurous and active lifestyle. It is the newest edition from the Legacy Machine Perpetual family, which makes use of an extra-ordinary mechanical engine designed by Stephen McDonnell. This award-winning perpetual calendar movement replaces traditional constructions with an innovative mechanical processor.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO watch limited edition hands on

Featuring a solid zirconium case, the limited edition Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO watch comes with three color versions – Orange, black and blue – based on the color of CVD coating applied to the dial plate.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO watch all the three models 2020

The LM Perpetual EVO comes in a case of zirconium, a material rarely used in watch making. Zirconium is a lustrous silvery-grey metal with material properties surpassing stainless steel and titanium. Due to its unique characteristics, machining of zirconium is extremely difficult and risky. Previously, this challenging metal was used in MB&F’s HM3 Frog and HM5.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO watch with orange dial plate

Zirconium’s biocompatibility and hypoallergenic and anti-microbial properties made it the ideal material for the organic curves of MB&F’s favourite amphibian, while its technical appeal and physical properties (lighter than steel, more durable than titanium) were a perfect fit for the motoring-inspired HM5. Following the footsteps of these two creations, the mighty LM Perpetual EVO watch has chosen Zirconium as its armour.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO watch with blue dial plate

Although the 44mm diameter is unchanged from its 2015 iteration, the new EVO case design features a no-bezel construction, with the domed sapphire crystal fused directly to the case. The increased openness of this design highlights the equilibrium between the legibility of LM Perpetual EVO’s calendar indications and the cinematic play of the engine components — surmounted by the iconic MB&F hovering balance wheel.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO with black dial plate

This expansive new presentation of the LM Perpetual Engine was no simple design reconfiguration. New geometries for the sapphire crystal had to be calculated, achieving the mechanically opposing aims of maintaining structural strength and decreasing its height-to-diameter ratio. Freeing LM Perpetual EVO from the bezel also necessitated the use of a sophisticated thermal bonding system between the sapphire crystal and the zirconium case.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO with blue dial plate and black strap

The previously circular pushers for adjusting the perpetual calendar have been enlarged into double-sprung oblong actuators, boosting the tactile comfort and ease of adjustment. For the first time in any MB&F creation, the LM Perpetual EVO is rated at 80m of water resistance, enabled by its screw-down crown. A small, but essential, detail of implementing a screw-down crown is the débrayage of the winding stem, disengaging the crown from the winding mechanism when it is pushed in and tightened, which eliminates the chance of manually over-winding the mainspring barrel.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO caseback

An additional new element of the LM Perpetual EVO is the FlexRing: an annular dampener fitted between case and movement, providing shock protection along the vertical and lateral axes. Machined from a single block of stainless steel, the dampener imparts exceptional robustness to the perpetual calendar, a function that is associated with classicism and elegance, but is arguably the most pragmatic and utilitarian of all the high complications.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO lume shot

When Stephen McDonnell set out to redesign the perpetual calendar for MB&F, he proposed a system that rethought the entire mechanical basis of the complication. The LM Perpetual uses a “mechanical processor” consisting of a series of superimposed disks. This revolutionary processor takes the default number of days in the month at 28 — because, logically, all months have at least 28 days — and then adds the extra days as required by each individual month.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO watch movement

This ensures that each month has exactly the right number of days, and removes the possibility of the date jumping incorrectly. An inbuilt safety feature disconnects the quickset pushers during the date changeover, so that even if the pushers are accidentally actuated whilst the date is changing, there is no risk of damage to the movement.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO with black dial plate and white strap

Reinforcing the dynamism and durability of the LM Perpetual EVO is a new dial plate colour — a shade of orange that is as bright as it is difficult to achieve. Dark PVD/CVD coatings are common, with colours that appear along the cooler end of the visible light spectrum becoming more familiar in watch-making.

The shades like Yellow, orange and red are rarely used in PVD/CVD because it has been mastered by a very small number of the most technically advanced specialists, who keep their material compounds and application methods a close professional secret.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO watch with orange dial plate

The LM Perpetual EVO is the first timepiece to exhibit a bright orange shade of CVD coating. Two other dial-plate colours, black and blue are also available, with each of the three shades produced in a limited series of 15 pieces – celebrating the brand’s 15th anniversary.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO watch

[View the promotional video]

Technical details

Model: LEGACY MACHINE PERPETUAL EVO

Editions
Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO is available in three variations of 15 pieces each: Zirconium case with orange CVD dial plate, Zirconium case with blue CVD dial plate and Zirconium case with black PVD dial plate.

Engine
Fully integrated perpetual calendar developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell, featuring dial-side complication and mechanical processor system architecture with inbuilt safety mechanism. Manual winding with double mainspring barrels. Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement. Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings

Galvanic black dials with both SLN numerals and hands(except for the leap year and power reserve)
FlexRing: an annular dampener fitted between case and movement, providing shock protection along the vertical and lateral axes.
Screw down crown
Power reserve: 72 hours
Balance frequency: 18,000bph/ 2.5Hz
Number of components: 581
Number of jewels: 41

Functions/indications
Hours, minutes, day, date, month, retrograde leap year and power reserve indicators

Case
Material: Zirconium
Dimensions: 44 mm x 17.5 mm
Number of components: 70
Water resistance: 80m / 8 ATM / 270 feet

Sapphire crystals
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces

Strap & buckle
Rubber strap with titanium folding buckle

MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet Limited Edition

Celebrating its 15th anniversary this year, MB&F has partnered with dial engraving specialist Eddy Jaquet to create a special edition LM Split Escapement collection. The LM Split Escapement ‘Eddy Jaquet’ Limited Edition is a series of eight unique pieces featuring the extraordinary imagination and skill of the well-known engraver in depicting the novels of Jules Verne.

MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet Limited Edition

The engraved dial plates of the LM SE Eddy Jaquet Limited Edition are inspired by the stories of Jules Verne, the 19th-century French writer widely recognized as the pioneer of science fiction.

MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet Limited Edition

The eight Jules Verne stories illustrated in the series are:

  • Twenty Thousand Leagues Under The Sea
  • From The Earth To The Moon
  • Around The World In Eighty Days
  • Five Weeks In A Balloon
  • The Adventures Of Captain Hatteras
  • Journey To The Centre Of The Earth
  • Michael Strogoff
  • Robur The Conqueror

Each of the eight unique pieces comes in an 18K red-gold case.

Apart from the large area of space available for engraving on the dial plate, the Legacy Machine Split Escapement is also an apt choice for this project with Eddy Jaquet. Featuring the proprietary escapement developed for MB&F by master watchmaker Stephen McDonnell and first introduced in the Legacy Machine Perpetual, the LM Split Escapement is the perfect MB&F creation to bear the engravings inspired by Jules Verne.

MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet limited edition watch Five Weeks In A Balloon
MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet limited edition – Five Weeks In A Balloon

In these unique timepieces, Jaquet displays his creativity and exceptional engraving skills within the constraints set by the LM SE engine. The designated engraving space was the dial plate, which presents a flat upper surface in the main LM SE series, but is actually of variable thickness on its reverse side in order to accommodate the different components of the engine.

MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet limited edition - Michael Strogoff
MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet limited edition – Michael Strogoff

Engraving the dial plate as if it was uniformly thick throughout was not possible. Careful consideration had to be made as to where the thinner areas were, so as not to inadvertently puncture the artistic canvas if a particular section required deep-relief engraving.

MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet limited edition watch From The Earth To The Moon
MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet limited edition – From The Earth To The Moon

From the side of production as well, several adjustments were made to the original LM Split Escapement so as to maximise the available engraving space and allow Jaquet to exhibit his savoir-faire to the fullest. New, open-worked date and power-reserve subdials were created, along with wider dial plates.

MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet limited edition watch Journey To The Centre Of The Earth
MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet limited edition – Journey To The Centre Of The Earth

The bezel was redesigned to be slimmer, and the case dimensions reworked, in order to make space for the wider dial plate. Because the bezel and case dimensions were changed, a new dial crystal had to be produced, with a less pronounced curve to the dome, since its diameter was now increased.

MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet limited edition watch Robur The Conqueror
MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet limited edition – Robur The Conqueror

To fully bring out each illustrated scene, Jaquet applied a dark rhodium alloy by hand, adjusting the shading of each detail according to the exigencies of the scene.

MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet Dial plate - From The Earth To The Moon
Dial plate illustration – From The Earth To The Moon

The smoke of the fire on the Michel Strogoff dial, for example, required an attenuated touch, while the underground sea depicted on the Journey To The Centre Of The Earth dial incorporated gradient-shading techniques.

MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet Dial plate - Journey To The Centre Of The Earth
MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet Dial plate – Journey To The Centre Of The Earth

Between the redesign of a number of components and the actual execution of the engraved dial itself, over 300 hours of additional labour were required for each unique piece of the LM SE Eddy Jaquet Limited Edition.

MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet Dial plate - Journey To The Centre Of The Earth
Dial plate illustration – Journey To The Centre Of The Earth

For each unique piece, Eddy Jaquet read the original work by Jules Verne and viewed any significant secondary creative works based on the books, such as the original published illustrations (which would have been approved by Jules Verne) or films.

He then created his own original sketches on templates of the dial plate, depicting key scenes from each story, sometimes combining several tableaux in a single dial plate as a graphic tapestry of storytelling.

MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet Dial plate - Twenty Thousand Leagues Under The Sea
Dial plate illustration – Twenty Thousand Leagues Under The Sea

The dial plate of the piece inspired by the book Twenty Thousand Leagues Under The Sea, for example, shows the submarine Nautilus drifting in the depths of the ocean in an unspecified location; a pair of ruined pillars just above the power-reserve dial hints that this is the scene where Captain Nemo and his crew explore the lost city of Atlantis.

The dial plate of the piece inspired by Journey To The Centre Of The Earth, by contrast, brings together scenes of the protagonists descending into the planet’s interior, the subterranean ocean teeming with prehistoric life, and, far off in the distance the erupting volcano that returns them to the surface in the novel’s denouement.

MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet Dial plate - Michael Strogoff
Dial plate illustration – Michael Strogoff

Creating these rich scenes on the limited diameter of the dial plates posed its own particular challenges, some of which Jaquet was able to foresee and plan around, and some that he was obliged to invent solutions for, mid-engraving.

While working on the first dial plate to be engraved, the piece inspired by Five Weeks In A Balloon, his detailed project notes include observations about the variable thickness of the dial plate. Although flat on the upper side, the dial plate was highly irregular on its reverse, hollowed out in different places to accommodate the different components of the LM Split Escapement engine.

MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet Dial plate - Five Weeks In A Balloon
Dial plate illustration – Five Weeks In A Balloon

In certain parts, the dial plate had a thickness of 1.15mm, which allowed Jaquet ample space to engrave even in deep relief. In three particularly vulnerable areas, the dial plate measured only 0.35mm thick, requiring him to work with an extremely light touch in those places while making sure that the overall aesthetic of the engraving, which is intricately detailed, was not compromised.

MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet Dial plate - Five Weeks In A Balloon

In the same project notes on this particular dial plate, Jaquet refers to the trio of zebras visible at the date dial, quietly refreshing themselves at a watering hole on the African savannah. These animals were not part of his initial concept sketch, but were added late in the engraving process for a key point of aesthetic balance. This, however, required Jaquet to adjust the placement of two nearby hippopotami, highlighting the agility and adaptive skills essential to this delicate project.

MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet Dial plate - Around The World In Eighty Days
Dial plate illustration – Around The World In Eighty Days

Jaquet frequently uses darkening treatments as a means to draw the eye to certain elements in his dials and to enhance the dramatic rendering of a scene. Instead of the more commonly seen technique of uniformly applying a dark coating, which is then removed in parts to create the necessary contrast, Jaquet opted for a far more labour-intensive (and ultimately more aesthetically impactful) method for Legacy Machine Split Escapement.

Using a jeweller’s electroplating pen, Jaquet painstakingly applied a solution containing ions of a dark rhodium alloy to each dial plate. In this technique, the normally silver-white rhodium is alloyed with a secret mix of other metals to impart a lustrous dark-grey coating.

MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet Dial plate - The Adventures Of Captain Hatteras
Dial plate illustration – The Adventures Of Captain Hatteras

Using the electroplating pen like an artist’s brush, layering the solution in multiple applications and working with the natural tendency of the rhodium electroplating solution to draw itself along the grooves and surfaces of the dial, Jaquet was able to create a wide range of grey tones to suggest different textures and levels of light.

This mastery of chiaroscuro technique is demonstrated in the smoky fire depicted on the Michel Strogoff dial — ink-dark in some areas and pierced by light in others, billowing around a church steeple as Jules Verne described in his tale.

MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet Dial plate - Michael Strogoff
MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet Dial plate – Michael Strogoff

The sleek dark sheen of hippopotamus skin in the Five Weeks In A Balloon dial is brought out with subtle highlights using a more painterly approach, while the gradient shading of space and sea in From The Earth To The Moon and Journey To The Centre Of The Earth called for rigorous technique, intense focus and complex layering of the rhodium solution to obtain a moiré effect in some parts.

MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet Dial plate - Robur The Conqueror
Dial plate illustration – Robur The Conqueror

About Eddy Jaquet

Eddy Jaquet is one of the most gifted artists of his generation and the best storyteller working through the medium of dial engraving. Eddy Jaquet was born in 1965, in a small village on the outskirts of Neuchâtel in Switzerland. Having learned his trade at the Écoled’Arts Appliqués in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Jaquet went straight on to pursue his lifelong vocation of engraver after graduation, in a career that has continued uninterrupted from 1987 to this day.

Since 1994 he has enjoyed complete professional independence, which has allowed him to create some of the most exquisite works of art ever to grace a watch dial. His work is often based on existing stories and cultural narratives. Eddy Jaquet has been a Friend of MB&F since 2011, when the first Legacy Machine featured his skills in the names of Kari Voutilainen and Jean-François Mojon engraved on a movement bridge.

MB&F LM Split Escapement Eddy Jaquet limited edition watch

Technical details

Model: LM Split Escapement MB&F x Eddy Jaquet

Edition
Limited edition of 8 unique pieces, with dial plates engraved by Eddy Jaquet, inspired by 8 novels written by Jules Verne:
Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea
From the Earth to the Moon
Around the World in Eighty Days
Five Weeks in a Balloon
The Adventures of Captain Hatteras
Journey to the Center of the Earth
Michael Strogoff
Robur the Conqueror

Engine
LM SE movement developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell
Split escapement with the balance wheel suspended above the dial and the anchor and escapement wheel under the movement
Manual winding with double mainspring barrels
Power reserve: 72 hours
Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement
Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th-century style; bevelled internal angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings
Balance frequency: 2.5Hz / 18,000bph
Number of components: 296
Number of jewels: 35

Functions & indications
Hours, minutes, date and power-reserve indicators
Push-button next to the date dial for quick adjustment of the date

Case
Material: 5N+ red gold
Dimensions: 44.5 mm x 18.2 mm
Number of components: 50
Water resistance: 30m / 100ft / 3ATM

Sapphire crystals
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces.

Strap & buckle
Dark brown hand-stitched alligator strap with 5N+ red gold folding buckle matching the case.

The team

  • Concept: Maximilian Büsser / MB&F
  • Product design: Eric Giroud / Through the Looking Glass
  • Technical and production management: Serge Kriknoff / MB&F
  • Hand engraving of the 8 unique dial-plates: Eddy Jaquet
  • Movement design and finish specifications: Stephen McDonnell
  • Movement development: Stephen McDonnell and MB&F
  • R&D: Simon Brette and Thomas Lorenzato / MB&F
  • Wheels, pinions and axis: Jean-François Mojon / Chronode, Atokalpa, Daniel Gumy / Decobar Swiss, Paul-André Tendon / Bandi, Swiss Manufacturing and Le Temps Retrouvé.
  • Balance Wheel Bridge and plates: Benjamin Signoud / Amecap
  • Balance wheel: Andreas Kurt / Precision Engineering and Marc Bolis / 2B8
  • Barrel spring: Stefan Schwab / Schwab-Feller
  • Case: Alain Lemarchand and Jean-Baptiste Prétot / MB&F
  • Fine-finishing of the case: Bripoli
  • Movement components: Alain Pellet / Elefil
  • Hand-finishing of movement components: Jacques-Adrien Rochat and Denis Garcia / C-L Rochat
  • Gold ingotsCoC (Chain of Custody): Nathalie Guilbaud / Cendres et Métaux Lux
  • Movement assemblage: Didier Dumas, Georges Veisy, Anne Guiter, Emmanuel Maître, and Henri Porteboeuf / MB&F
  • After-sales service: Thomas Imberti / MB&F
  • Quality control: Cyril Fallet / MB&F
  • Dial: Hassan Chaïba and Virginie Duval / Les Ateliers d’HermèsHorloger
  • Buckle: G&F Châtelain
  • Crown: Cheval Frères
  • Hands: Isabelle Chillier / Fiedler
  • Sapphire crystals: Stettler
  • Anti-refection treatment for sapphire crystals: Anthony Schwab / Econorm
  • Strap: Multicuirs
  • Presentation box: Olivier Berthon / soixanteetonze
  • Production logistics: David Lamy and Isabel Ortega / MB&F

H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F : LM101 MB&F X H. Moser Limited Edition and Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F Limited Edition

The independent Swiss brands H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F have jointly created a pair of horological masterpieces whose DNA blends the main characteristics of each maison.

The brands have in fact been working together for more than ten years, with Precision Engineering AG – a sister company of H. Moser & Cie. – notably supplying MB&F’s balance springs. This year, H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F have jointly created two models, available in several versions and issued in 15-piece limited series. This number is a nod to the 15th anniversary of MB&F as well as honouring the 15th anniversary of the relaunch of H. Moser & Cie.

Left: Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F Limited Edition with Cosmic Green fume dial; Right: LM101 MB&F X H. Moser Limited Edition with Funky Blue fumé dial
Left: Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F Limited Edition with Cosmic Green fume dial; Right: LM101 MB&F X H. Moser Limited Edition with Funky Blue fumé dial

By pooling their strengths, these two competing yet friendly brands are working to harness the combined strengths of talented artisans, entirely in keeping with the philosophy adopted by MB&F.

LM101 MB&F X H. MOSER

The Legacy Machine 101 represents the purest form of fine mechanical watchmaking: the balance wheel, the power reserve and the passing of time. MB&F has chosen to revisit this model – one of the purest and “simplest” in its collection – since it is indeed minimalism that guided the creation of the LM101 MB&F x H. Moser model.

LM101 H. Moser X MB&F Limited Edition

Like H. Moser & Cie. and the “back to basics” approach embodied in its Concept watch series, MB&F has chosen to remove its logo and return to its roots and indeed to the very origins of horology, when only the movements were signed. In the same understated spirit, it has abandoned the floating domed subdials to display the hours and minutes as well as the 45-hour power reserve by means of hands placed directly on the main dial.

LM101 H. Moser X MB&F Limited Edition

The fumé dials borrowed from H. Moser & Cie. can thus be expressed in complete freedom, also enhanced by a refined bezel.

LM101 H. Moser X MB&F Limited Edition with Funky Blue fumé dial
LM101 H. Moser X MB&F Limited Edition with Funky Blue fumé dial

Four fumé dials have been chosen for the LM101 MB&F x H. Moser: Red fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, AquaBlue fumé and, of course, the famous Funky Blue fumé. Topped with a domed sapphire crystal, the case is made of steel, for only the third time in the history of MB&F.

LM101 H. Moser X MB&F Limited Edition with Cosmic Green fume dial
LM101 H. Moser X MB&F Limited Edition with Cosmic Green fume dial

The mesmerising large suspended balance wheel continues to take centre stage, albeit completely redesigned on the LM101 MB&F x H. Moser in order to highlight the beauty of the fumé dials. This beating heart has been fitted with a double balance spring produced by Precision Engineering AG.

LM101 H. Moser X MB&F Limited Edition with Red fumé dial
LM101 H. Moser X MB&F Limited Edition with Red fumé dial

Thanks to this pair of matching balance springs, the displacement of the point of gravity undergone by each spring as it expands is corrected, significantly improving precision and isochronism in a continuous quest for perfection.

LM101 H. Moser X MB&F Special Edition with Aqua Blue fumé dial made for the retailer Ahmed Seddiqi& Sons
LM101 H. Moser X MB&F Special Edition with Aqua Blue fumé dial made for the retailer Ahmed Seddiqi& Sons

In addition, the paired balance springs also reduce the friction effect normally encountered with a single balance spring, resulting in optimised isochronism. Through the case back, the curved sapphire crystal reveals the ‘engine’ driving this timepiece.

LM101 H. Moser X MB&F Limited Edition caseback view

Unlike the base movement of the Legacy Machine 101, of which the finishes were determined by co-creator Kari Voutilainen, the aesthetics of the calibre that powers the LM101 MB&F x H. Moser is more contemporary, with a subtle NAC treatment to enhance its beauty.

LM101 H. Moser X MB&F Limited Edition hands on

Technical details

Model: LM101 MB&F X H. MOSER

Edition
LM101 MB&F x H. Moser is available in 4 limited editions of 15 pieces in stainless steel: Funky Blue fumé dial, Cosmic Green fumé dial, Red fumé dial and a special edition with Aqua Blue fumé dial made for the retailer Ahmed Seddiqi& Sons.

Engine
Three-dimensional horological movement developed in-house by MB&F
Movement aesthetics and finishing specifications: Kari Voutilainen
Manual winding with single mainspring barrel
Power reserve: 45 hours
Balance wheel: Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the movement
Balance spring: Straumann®double hairspring
Balance frequency: 18,000bph/2.5Hz
221 components
23 jewels
Chatons: gold chatons with polished countersinks
Fine finishing: superlative 19th century-style hand finishing throughout; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings, NAC black bridges

Functions
Hours, minutes and power reserve indicator
Large balance wheel suspended above the dial

Case
Available in 4 limited editions of 15 pieces in stainless steel 316, including a special edition with Aqua Blue fumé dial made for the retailer Ahmed Seddiqi& Sons.
Diameter: 40.0 mm
Height: 16.0 mm
35 components
High domed crystal sapphire on top and box sapphire crystal on back, both with anti-reflective coating on both sides

Dial
Funky Blue fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, Red fumé or AquaBlue fumé with sunburst pattern

Strap
Hand-stitched calfskin strap
Steel 316L and titanium folding buckle

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F

H. Moser & Cie. has borrowed from MB&F the concept of three-dimensional movements, a strong element of the Geneva Maison’s identity, protected by a sapphire dome and featuring a one-minute flying tourbillon that rises above the main dial through a ventricular opening appearing at 12 o’clock.

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F Limited edition with Funky Blue fumé dial
Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F Limited edition with Funky Blue fumé dial

Benefiting from the expertise of its sister company Precision Engineering AG, H. Moser & Cie. has equipped its tourbillon with a cylindrical balance spring, the same as that developed by Precision Engineering AG for MB&F’s LM Thunderdome. Invented in the 18th century, the cylindrical balance spring is reminiscent of a worm- or corkscrew, rising perpendicularly around the upper rod of the balance staff.

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F Limited edition with Cosmic Green fumé dial
Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F Limited edition with Cosmic Green fumé dial

Commonly used in historical marine chronometers at the time, it offers the advantage of developing concentrically, and therefore geometrically, since it works perfectly along the axis of its pivots. This gives it a significant advantage over the flat balance spring, whose opposite ends tend to exert forces on the pivots, despite the Philips or Breguet terminal curves which were specifically developed to partially correct the non-concentric opening of the balance spring.

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F Limited edition with Burgundy fumé dial
Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F Limited edition with Burgundy fumé dial

Fitted with a Breguet overcoil at both attachment points, the cylindrical balance spring reduces pivot friction and greatly improves isochronism. Due to its specific shape, the cylindrical balance spring is far more difficult to produce and takes ten times longer to make than a traditional balance spring.

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F Limited edition with Off-White fumé dial
Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F Limited edition with Off-White fumé dial

Another reference to MB&F’s identity lies in the tilted dials, which H Moser & Cie. has adopted for its hour and minute subdials. These are inclined at 40° so that the owner of the watch is the only one to whom it reveals the secret of time, and mounted on a conical gear train ensuring optimal torque transmission from one plane to the other.

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F Limited edition with Ice Blue dial
Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F Limited edition with Ice Blue dial

Available in five different versions, the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser x MB&F model comes in a steel case topped by Funky Blue, Cosmic Green, Burgundy, Off-White or Ice Blue dials, all of the fumé variety.

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F Limited edition caseback view

Technical details

Model: Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F

Edition
Endeavour cylindrical tourbillon H. Moser x MB&F is available in 5 limited editions of 15 pieces each in stainless steel: Funky Blue fumé dial, Cosmic Green fumé dial, Burgundy fumé dial, Off-White fumé dial and Ice Blue dial.

Case
Steel topped by a high domed sapphire crystal
Diameter: 42.0 mm
Height: 19.5 mm
Height without crystal sapphire: 9.4 mm
Crown at 9 o’clock, engraved with a “M“
See-through sapphire crystal case back

Dial
Main dial: Funky Blue fumé, Burgundy fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, Off-White fumé or Ice Blue fumé with sunburst pattern
Hours and the minutes displayed on a 40° vertically tilted sapphire dial at 6 o’clock
Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, blued on the reference 1810-1203

Movement
HMC 810 three-dimensional automatic Manufacture calibre
Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4lignes
Height: 5.5 mm
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour
29 jewels
184 components
Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system
Oscillating weight in 18-carat gold with engraved H. Moser & Cie. logo
Power reserve: minimum 72 hours
Cylindrical hairspring
One-minute flying tourbillon at 12 o’clock with skeletonised bridges

Functions
Hours and minutes

Strap
Hand-stitched black alligator leather
Steel folding buckle engraved with the Moser logo

MB&F Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’

This brand new MB&F Horological Machine is a tribute to the relationship between man and dog.

The Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’ features a rounded, compact case made with titanium or red gold. Its case measures 45mm across, 54mm from nose to tail and with a maximum height of 24m.

MB&F Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’

It features an interested dial design. Below the large suspended balance that beats at 2.5Hz (18,000vph), you can discover two domed indicators: left one is for hours and right one is for minutes. The hour and minute markers are embedded with Super-LumiNova.

MB&F Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’

The revolving time-telling domes of HM10 Bulldog originated in the conical hour- and minute-modules of the first Horological Machine N°3. Subsequently, the cones took on rounded forms in HM3 ‘Frog’, but the one factor that remained constant was the urgent need to make them as light as possible, so that they placed minimal stress on the rest of the engine.

MB&F Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’

Conventional milling processes were reworked and tolerances were sliced micro-fine in order to produce paper-thin aluminium components in three dimensions. These components later appeared again in Horological Machine N°6, this time paired with conical gearing to enable the highly precise display of time.

MB&F Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’

The Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’ comes with a novel power reserve indicator inspired by the jaws of a Bull dog. Its hinged jaws open and shut according to the amount of wind left in its mainspring. A fully closed mouth indicates the end of power reserve and the timepiece needs winding. This is a hand-wound watch and has a power reserve of 45 hours. When you start winding the timepiece, the mouth opens gradually.

MB&F Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’

The fully open mouth indicates that the timepiece’s is now charged with 45 hours of autonomy. This massive power-reserve indication has been carefully designed and calibrated to consume the least energy possible, allowing HM10 Bulldog to direct its considerable mainspring torque solely towards its suspended balance and its revolving hour and minute domes.

MB&F Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’

When you observe the watch from dial side, you will see two collar type projections that secure the flexible strap lugs of the top part of the case. The projection also incorporates crowns: Left crown at 11 o’clock for winding and right crown at 1 o’clock for setting the time.

MB&F Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’

The manual-winding engine of HM10 Bulldog was designed and developed in-house, leveraging the best of MB&F’s technical expertise built up over the years. The large suspended balance that hovers just beneath the central dome of sapphire crystal was made possible by the various iterations of this mechanism in the Legacy Machine collection.

MB&F Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’

The massive jaws that indicate the level of mainspring wind are a much-expanded demonstration of the power-reserve management that was first deployed in the 2014 LM1 Xia Hang. The paper-thin aluminium domes have their roots in the HM3 Frog and were refined in 2014’s HM6. Even the grille work design motif in the “ribs” set beneath the balance and in the tail-end of the body echoes the automotive-inspired HM8, HMX and HM5.

MB&F Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’

Despite its bold dimensions, HM10 Bulldog offers comfortable wearing. Its sprung strap attachment “legs” allow the watch case to fit closely around the wrist, with the calf-leather strap fastened with either a folding buckle or Velcro system.

MB&F Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’

Available in both titanium and a combination of titanium and red gold, HM10 Bulldog is assembled with highly distilled expertise in micro-mechanical engineering. Fitting the requisite elements of timekeeping and time display within such a limited three-dimensional volume, while maintaining top levels of artistry and finish, requires careful balance between technical and aesthetic factors.

MB&F Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’

On the case back of each timepiece, you will find the engraving “Forget the dog, beware of the owner”.

MB&F Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’ is available in two launch editions: grade 5 titanium body with blue “eyes”, and 18k red-gold and titanium body with black “eyes”.

Technical details

Model: HM10 BULLDOG

Versions
Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’ is available in two versions
– Ti version: grade 5 titanium case with blue hour and minute domes;
– RT version: 18k red gold and titanium case with black hour and minute domes.

Engine
Manual-winding in-house movement
Frequency: 2.5Hz (18,000bph)
Bespoke flying 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the domed dials
Super-LumiNova on the hour and minute domes and markers
Single barrel with 45 hours of power reserve
301 components, 34 jewels
Left crown at 11 o’clock for winding; right crown at 1 o’clock for setting the time

Indications
Hours on left dome (aluminium dome rotating in 12 hours)
Minutes on right dome (aluminium dome rotating in 60 minutes)
Power reserve indicated in 3D by the opening and closing of the jaws (end of power reserve = closed jaws).

Case
Version Ti: grade 5 titanium
Version RT: 18k 5N+ red gold and grade 5 titanium
Dimensions: 54mm x 45mm x 24mm
Water resistant to 5ATM / 50m / 160ft

Sapphire crystals
2 sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides

Strap and buckle
RT version: hand-stitched brown calf-leather strap with custom-designed red gold folding buckle.
Ti version: hand-stitched blue calf-leather strap with Velcro system and titanium buckle.

 

 

MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT, Red Gold and Platinum Editions

The Legacy Machine FlyingT is the first MB&F timepiece exclusively created for women. This timepiece made its debut in 2019 in three white gold diamond-set editions: one with a simple halo of brilliant-cut gems on the bezel and lugs, one fully paved with brilliants and one fully paved with baguette-cut stones. This feminine wristwatch won the Prix de la Complication pour Dame award at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT, Red Gold and Platinum Editions

In 2020, MB&F welcomes new LM FlyingT models: an edition in red gold and one in platinum.

MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT, Red Gold and Platinum Editions

In these new editions, removing the crystallised carbon crust of Legacy Machine FlyingT allows to rediscover the central column of the flying tourbillon in hyper focus. In place of the stretched-lacquer dial plate is a guilloché plate with a radial pattern of scalloped arches, drawing the eye towards the cinematic heart of the in-house developed engine.

MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT, Red Gold and Platinum Editions

The guilloché dial plate, executed by longtime MB&F collaborator Kari Voutilainen in his specialised dial facility, exists in two versions. One is as dark as a moonless night, and is housed in a red gold case, while the other is midsummer sky-blue, with a platinum case. The same LM FlyingT, when switched between nocturnal and diurnal modalities, is as different as the world when seen by night and by day.

MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT, Red Gold and Platinum Editions

At the top of the flying tourbillon that gives LM FlyingT its name, a single 0.035-carat stone that rotates in time with the underlying mechanism, making one complete turn every 60 seconds.

MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT, Red Gold and Platinum Editions

At the foot of the flying tourbillon, located at the 7 o’clock position, is a dial of white lacquer that displays the hours and minutes with a pair of blue serpentine hands. The dial is inclined at a 50° tilt so that the time can be read only by the wearer; an intimate communication that highlights the personal nature of the LM FlyingT.

MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT, Red Gold and Platinum Editions

On the reverse, the automatic winding rotor takes the shape of a three-dimensional red gold sun with sculpted rays, providing LM FlyingT with four days (100 hours) of power reserve.

MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT, Red Gold and Platinum Editions

After the diamond-set launch editions, Legacy Machine FlyingTis now offered in two limited editions of 18 pieces each: 18k red gold case with black guilloché dial (Night) and platinum 950 case with sky-blue guilloché dial (Day).

MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT, Red Gold and Platinum Editions

Technical Details

Edition
After the diamond-set launch editions, Legacy Machine FlyingTis now offered in two limited editions of 18 pieces each: 18k red gold case with black guilloché dial (Night) and platinum 950 case with sky-blue guilloché dial (Day).

Engine
Three-dimensional vertical architecture, automatic winding, conceived and developed in-house by MB&F
Central flying 60-second tourbillon, with a diamond at the top of the flying tourbillon cage
Power reserve: 100 hours
Balance frequency: 2.5Hz / 18,000bph
Three-dimensional sun winding rotor in 18k 5N+ red gold, titanium and platinum.
Number of components: 280
Number of jewels: 30

Functions/indications
Hours and minutes displayed on a 50° vertically titled dial with two blued serpentine hands.
Two crowns: winding on left and time-setting on right

Case
Material: 5N+ 18k red gold and platinum 950
High domed sapphire crystal on top with anti-reflective coating on both sides, sapphire crystal on back.
Dimensions: 38.5mm x 20mm
Number of components: 17
Water resistance: 30 m / 90’ / 3atm

Strap
Calf or alligator leather straps with red gold or platinum pin buckle matching the case.

‘Friends’ Responsible For the LM Flying T

  • Concept: Maximilian Büsser / MB&F
  • Product design: Eric Giroud / Through the Looking Glass
  • Development and production management: Serge Kriknoff / MB&F
  • R&D: Ruben Martinez, Simon Brette and Thomas Lorenzato / MB&F
  • Movement development: Ruben Martinez / MB&F
  • Case: Giuseppe Di Stefano / STG Creation
  • Profile-turning wheel/pinion/axis: Paul André Tendon / Bandi, Decobar Swiss, Gimmel Rouages and Le Temps Retrouvé
  • Springs and jumpers: Alain Pellet / Elefil Swiss
  • Mainspring and barrel: Stéphane Schwab/ Schwab Feller and Sébastien Jeanneret / Atokalpa
  • Tourbillon: Andreas Kurt / Precision Engineering
  • Wheels: Patrice Parietti / MPS Micro Precision Systems
  • Plates and bridges: Benjamin Signoud / Amecap, Rodrigue Baume / Horlofab and DEM3
  • PVD-treatment dial: Pierre-Albert Steinman / Positive Coating
  • Decoration of the guilloche dial plate: Kari Voutilainen
  • Sun-shaped winding rotor: Nathalie Guilbaud / CendresetMétaux
  • Hand-finishing of movement components: Jacques-Adrien Rochat and Denis Garcia / C.-L. Rochat, Kari Voutilainen
  • Sapphire glass: Sebal
  • Anti-refection treatment for sapphire crystals: Anthony Schwab/Econorm
  • Serpentine hands: Isabelle Chillier / Fiedler
  • Dial (discs for hours – minutes): Hassan Chaïba and Virginie Duval / Les Ateliers d’Hermès Horlogers
  • Strap: Multicuirs
  • Movement assemblage: Didier Dumas, Georges Veisy, Anne Guiter, Emmanuel Maitre and Henri Porteboeuf / MB&F
  • In-house machining: Alain Lemarchand and Jean-Baptiste Prétot / MB&F
  • Quality Control: Cyril Fallet / MB&F
  • After-Sales service: Thomas Imberti / MB&F
  • Buckle: Giuseppe Di Stefano /STG Creation
  • Crowns: Cheval Frères SA
  • Presentation case: Olivier Berthon / Soixanteetonze

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Yellow Gold Limited Edition

Since its introduction in 2015, the MB&F LM Perpetual has been crafted in red gold, platinum, white gold and titanium. This year, MB&F welcomes a new variant featuring 18k yellow gold case with striking blue dial. This new model is available in a limited edition of 25 pieces.

With the Legacy Machine Perpetual, MB&F and independent Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell have completely reinvented that most traditional of horological complications: the perpetual calendar. The result is Legacy Machine Perpetual, featuring a visually stunning in-house movement – developed from the ground up to eliminate the drawbacks of conventional perpetual calendars.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Yellow Gold Limited Edition

The fact that the new complication looks sensational and can be fully appreciated dial-side is just one of the many benefits offered by the new movement, controlled by a mechanical processor (patent pending).

LM Perpetual features a fully integrated 581-component calibre − no module, no base movement − with a revolutionary new system for calculating the number of days in each month. And it holistically reinterprets the aesthetics of the perpetual calendar by placing the full complication on dial-free display underneath a spectacular suspended balance.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Yellow Gold Limited Edition

The perpetual calendar is one of the great traditional complications, calculating the apparently random complexity of the varying numbers of days in each month − including the 29 days in February during leap years. But traditional perpetual calendars do have a few drawbacks: dates can skip; they are relatively easy to damage if adjusted while the date is changing; and the complications are usually compromises of modules powered by base movements.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Yellow Gold Limited Edition

The fully integrated, purpose-built movement of Legacy Machine Perpetual has been designed from scratch for trouble-free use: no more skipping dates or jamming gears, and the adjuster pushers automatically deactivate when the calendar changes.

Traditional perpetual calendar mechanisms use a 31-day month as the default and basically “delete” superfluous dates for the months with fewer days – by fast-forwarding through the redundant dates during changeover. A traditional perpetual calendar changing from February 28 to March 1 scrolls quickly through the 29th, 30th and 31st to arrive at the 1st.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Yellow Gold Limited Edition

LM Perpetual turns the traditional perpetual calendar system on its head by using a “mechanical processor” instead of the conventional space-consuming grand levier (big lever) system architecture. The mechanical processor utilises a default 28-day month and adds extra days as required. This means that each month always has the exact number of days required; there is no fast-forwarding or skipping redundant days. And while the leap year can only be set on traditional perpetual calendars by scrolling through up to 47 months, LM Perpetual has a dedicated quickset pusher to adjust the year.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Yellow Gold Limited Edition

With its open dial revealing the full complication and suspended balance, it’s the harmonious mechanical beauty of LM Perpetual that really steals the show. And in an interesting technical twist, that eye-catching balance hovering on high is connected to the escapement on the back of the movement by what is likely to be the world’s longest balance staff.

Using an innovative system developed especially for Legacy Machine Perpetual, the subdials appear to “float” above the movement with no visible attachments. The skeletonised subdials rest on hidden studs, which is technically impossible with traditional perpetual calendar mechanisms because they would block the movement of the grand levier.

Taking a clockwise tour of the dial, at 12 o’clock we see the hours and minutes nestled between the elegant arches of the balance; day of the week at 3 o’clock, power reserve indicator at 4 o’clock, month at 6 o’clock, retrograde leap year indicator at 7 o’clock, and date at 9 o’clock.

The Legacy Machine Perpetual won the Best Calendar Watch Prize at the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) in 2016.

Technical details

Model: Legacy Machine Perpetual

Versions
Legacy Machine Perpetual is available:
– in platinum 950 with blue face (limited to 25 pieces);
– in 18k red gold with grey face (limited to 25 pieces);
– in 18k white gold with purple face (limited to 25 pieces);
– in 18k white gold with dark grey face;
– in grade 5 titanium with green face (limited to 50 pieces);
– and now in 18k yellow gold with blue face (limited to 25 pieces)

Engine
Fully integrated perpetual calendar developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell, featuring dial-side complication and mechanical processor system architecture with inbuilt safety mechanism. Manual winding with double mainspring barrels. Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement. Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings.
Power reserve: 72 hours
Balance frequency: 18,000bph/ 2.5Hz
Number of components: 581
Number of jewels: 41

Functions/indications
Hours, minutes, day, date, month, retrograde leap year and power reserve indicators

Case
Material: 18k5N+ red gold, 18k white gold,18k 3N yellow gold,platinum 950, grade 5 titanium.
Dimensions: 44 mm x 17.5 mm
Number of components: 69 components
Water resistance: 30 m / 90′ / 3 atm

Sapphire crystals
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces

Strap & buckle
Black, grey, brown or blue hand-stitched alligator strap with gold / platinum / titanium folding buckle matching case material.

Friends responsible for Legacy Machine Perpetual Yellow Gold Watch

Concept: Maximilian Büsser / MB&F
Product design: Eric Giroud / Through the Looking Glass
Technical and production management: Serge Kriknoff / MB&F
Movement design and finish specifications: Stephen McDonnell and MB&F
Movement development: Stephen McDonnell and MB&F
R&D: Ruben Martinez, Simon Brette and Thomas Lorenzato/ MB&F

Wheels, pinions, movement, axis component: Paul-André Tendon / Bandi, Daniel Gumy / Decobar, Le Temps Retrouvé and Swiss Manufacturing
Balance Wheel Bridge and plates: Benjamin Signoud / AMECAP
Balance wheel: Andréas Kurt / Precision Engineering
Balance spring: Stefan Schwab / Schwab-Feller
Bridges: Rodrigue Baume / HorloFab
Perpetual calendar parts: Alain Pellet / Elefil
Hand-engraving of movement: Glypto and Eddy Jaquet
Hand-finishing of movement components: Jacques-Adrien Rochat and Denis Garcia / C-L Rochat
PVD-treatment: Pierre-Albert Steinmann / Positive Coating
Movement assemblage: Didier Dumas, Georges Veisy, Anne Guiter, Emmanuel Maitre, and Henri Porteboeuf / MB&F
After-Sales service: Thomas Imberti / MB&F
In-house machining: Alain Lemarchand and Jean-Baptiste Prétot / MB&F
Quality Control: Cyril Fallet / MB&F
Case: Alain Lemarchand and Jean-Baptiste Prétot / MB&F
Gold ingots CoC (Chain of Custody): Nathalie Guilbaud / Cendres et Métaux
Case decoration: Bripoli
Dial: Hassan Chaïba and Virginie Duval/ Les Ateliers d’Hermès Horloger
Buckle: G&F Chatelain and Nathalie Guilbaud / Cendres et Métaux
Crown and correctors: Cheval Frères
Hands: Isabelle Chillier / Fiedler
Sapphire crystals: Martin Stettler / Stettler
Strap: Multicuirs
Presentation box: Olivier Berthon / Soixante et Onze

MB&F Legacy Machine Thunderdome Limited Edition

MB&F presents the Legacy Machine Thunderdome, a high complication watch jointly developed with the two exceptionally talented master watchmakers of contemporary Swiss watchmaking: Eric Coudray and Kari Voutilainen.

Equipped with the world’s fastest triple-axis regulating mechanism, the MB&F Legacy Machine Thunderdome is the culmination of four years of development.

Wrist shot - MB&F Legacy Machine Thunderdome Limited Edition

This new Legacy Machine marks three world firsts:-

  • First-ever collaboration between legends Eric Coudray and Kari Voutilainen
  • Proprietary new ‘TriAx’ mechanism features 3 axes revolving at different speeds and on different planes, in record-breaking 8 seconds, 12 seconds and 20 seconds
  • Unique combination of Potter escapement, hemispherical balance and helical hairspring

The engine that powers the Legacy Machine Thunderdome was designed and developed by Eric Coudray and Kari Voutilainen. With a movement diameter of only 35mm, the complex the LM Thunderdome engine has 413 components.

Movement - MB&F Legacy Machine Thunderdome Limited Edition

Appearing to hover above the dial plate of Legacy Machine Thunderdome is the ‘TriAx’, a highly sophisticated multi-axis rotating escapement. The pronounced arch of the sapphire crystal dome allows this horological mechanism to sit fully above the dial plate, visible from all sides.

View of triple-axis regulating mechanism - MB&F Legacy Machine Thunderdome Limited Edition

The complex ‘TriAx’ mechanism of the Legacy Machine Thunderdome was developed by Eric Coudray, the legendary watchmaker who now heads a specialist team at TEC Ebauches, a high-complication movement manufacture based in the Vallée de Joux.

MB&F Legacy Machine Thunderdome Limited Edition Platinum

There are three axes rotating at different speeds and on different planes, starting with the innermost axis that makes one complete turn in 8 seconds. The next axis of rotation is canted at right angles to the first, and makes one complete turn in 12 seconds. The outermost axis of rotation is canted at right angles to the second, and makes one complete turn in 20 seconds. This gives LM Thunderdome the distinction of possessing the fastest combined rotation in the category of multi-axis regulating mechanisms.

Additionally, the last axis of rotation is excentric relative to the other two, such that the final motion of the balance wheel, when viewed in isolation, is most precisely described as an orbital tri-axial rotation.

The LM Thunderdome engine, which has the largest range and fastest rate of balance positional displacement known throughout the history of watchmaking, offers a visual spectacle that the horological world has never seen before.

The rotating mechanism of LM Thunderdome incorporates key elements of traditional rotating escapements like the split-train energy transmission of the karrusel and the fixed wheel of the tourbillon, but in a different configuration unfamiliar to the conventional definitions of tourbillon and karrusel. Driving this mechanism, which weighs close to 1g, is a manual-winding three-barrel movement with 45 hours of power reserve.

For the first time in mechanical watchmaking, a hemispherical balance is used to provide inertia in the regulating organ. This completely innovative custom solution allows for the largest possible balance when combined with a cylindrical hairspring, while still maintaining a relatively compact cage.

Cylindrical hairsprings have been used throughout history for timepieces that prioritised isochronism and overall timekeeping performance, since the highly uniform breathing of a cylindrical hairspring is less likely to cause timekeeping anomalies even in a wide range of disruptive environmental conditions.

Pioneering a three-dimensional balance might be considered by even the most ambitious watchmakers as enough of a challenge, without the extra step of planting it in the middle of a multi-axis rotating mechanism.

Even state-of-the-art laser measuring instruments were baffled by the continuously shifting balance and its enclosing rotating cages. MB&F furthered the known applications of this laser technology by shifting the beam frequency entirely into the infra-red range (thus avoiding any misreadings caused by the visible range of the beam interacting with the polished components) and developing a system of taking discrete readings at specific intervals over a period of time. This, in addition to the combined experience and skill of Eric Coudray and the MB&F watchmakers, allowed the LM Thunderdome balance to be adjusted with efficiency and precision.

The key to the high-speed rotation of TriAx at the heart of LM Thunderdome is a little-known variant of escapement, first proposed by 19th-century American watchmaker and inventor Albert H. Potter as a tourbillon modification. Instead of driving the escape wheel, via its pinion, around a fixed fourth wheel, he made the escape wheel the fixed wheel, and altered the geometry of the escape lever accordingly. This, he correctly theorised, would allow blindingly fast tourbillon rotational speeds.

In the TriAx mechanism of LM Thunderdome, the Potter escapement is modified yet further. Instead of a fixed escape wheel with externally oriented teeth, co-axial to the balance, Thunderdome uses a fixed escape wheel with inverted teeth, co-planar to the lever fork. Only once has this configuration been seen in modern horology, and only in a single-axis tourbillon, never before in a multi-axis mechanism.

The Finnish watchmaker Kari Voutilainen, whose company is based in the small Swiss village of Môtiers, has also undertaken the responsibility of haute-horlogerie finishing of the LM Thunderdome.

Kari Voutilainen, for the first time in an MB&F creation, has chosen his proprietary finishing technique on the ratchet wheels. This finish imparts a sheen that appears almost uniformly sandblasted, but reflects direct light in deeply curved sigmoid waves.

The rest of the Legacy Machine Thunderdome engine features superlative hand finishing throughout, at the highest level of 19th-century style. Sharp internal angles, unachievable by machines, are bevelled and polished by hand. The softly luminous Geneva Waves are applied by hand, as are the frosting and engraving on the power-reserve indication.

Surrounding the multi-axis rotating escapement is a guilloché dial plate, which is also created by Kari Voutilainen in Comblémine, his dial factory.

The LM Thunderdome is available in two limited editions:
– 33 pieces in platinum 950, with a light-blue guilloché dial plate;
– 10 pieces in tantalum commemorating the 40th anniversary of Asia-Pacific retail group The Hour Glass, with five pieces bearing a dark-blue guilloché dial and five pieces with an inlaid aventurine dial.

Technical details

Movement
Movement developed for MB&F by Eric Coudray and Kari Voutilainen
Regulating mechanism featuring 3 fast rotation axes revolving at different speeds and on different planes. The rotation speeds of the axes starting from the centre are respectively 8 seconds, 12 seconds and 20 seconds. The combined weight of the multi-axis mechanism is nearly 1g
Manual winding with three mainspring barrels
Bespoke hemispherical 10mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws and helical hairspring, visible on top of the movement
Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th-century style; bevelled internal angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings
Power reserve: 45 hours
Balance frequency: 3 Hz / 21,600bph
Number of components: 413
Number of jewels: 63

Indications
Hours and minutes displayed on a 58° vertically tilted dial
Power reserve indicator on the back of the movement

Case
Material: launch edition in platinum 950 and The Hour Glass editions in tantalum
Dimensions: 44mm x 22.2 mm
Number of components: 20
Water resistance: 30m / 90′ / 3ATM
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces.

Strap
Blue hand-stitched alligator strap with platinum or tantalum folding buckle matching the case.

Edition
Two Limited Editions:
– Limited edition of 33 pieces in platinum 950, with light-blue guilloche dial
– Limited edition of 10 pieces in tantalum for The Hour Glass (5 pieces with an aventurine dial and 5 pieces with a dark-blue guilloché dial)

MB&F Legacy Machine 101 Palladium Limited Edition

Launched in 2014, the Legacy Machine 101 (LM101) houses the very first movement developed entirely in-house by MB&F. The latest addition to the series – the LM101 Palladium edition – is also the first MB&F piece in palladium, a rare silvery-white metal. The naturally white colour of palladium contrasts with a new sunray dial, which varies between grey and shades of pale blue and green depending on the light.

MB&F Legacy Machine 101 Palladium Limited Edition

A classically sized 40mm wristwatch, the Legacy Machine 101 embodies and accentuates the very essence of what is essential in a wristwatch: the balance wheel, which is responsible for regulating precision; how much power remains in the mainspring, which indicates when it needs to be next wound; and of course, the time.

MB&F Legacy Machine 101 Palladium Limited Edition

Visually, LM101is dominated by the monumental suspended balance wheel, its sedate oscillations drawing the eye ever closer. Two pristine-white subdials hover just above the fine sunray-engraved movement top plate: At the top right, highly legible hours and minutes are displayed by beautiful blued-gold hands contrasting against the immaculate white, while the 45-hour power reserve indicator is displayed in a smaller, but similar subdial below. Two ‘Frost’ limited editions add even more contrast between these elements and the effervescent backdrop of the hand-finished frosted dial plate.

In an apparent feat of magic, the sapphire crystal protecting the dial appears to be invisible; creating the illusion that you can reach out and touch the prodigious balance wheel hanging mesmerisingly from elegant twin arches. The arches are milled from a solid block of metal and require many hours of hand polishing to achieve their mirror-like lustre.

Turning over Legacy Machine 101, the display back crystal – domed to reduce the thickness of the caseband and, visually, the height of the watch –reveals the exquisitely hand-finished movement. Sensually curved plates and bridges pay homage to the style found in high quality historic pocket watches and testify to the respect accorded to historical legitimacy.

With its undulating Geneva waves, hand polished bevels, gold chatons and countersunk blued screws, the beauty of LM101’s movement doesn’t just stay faithful to a bygone era. It also heralds the dawn of a new epoch as it was the first MB&F calibre to be entirely conceived and designed in-house.

While award-winning independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen took responsibility for the movement’s fine finishing specifications and fidelity to the horological past, its architecture and construction are 100% pure MB&F.

LM101 was first launched in 18k red or white gold, then in two limited ‘Frost’ editions with frosted finishing (18 and 33 pieces), followed by a limited edition of 33 pieces in platinum 950. The latest addition to the series is the LM101 Palladium, limited to 18 pieces.

Technical Specifications

Model: Legacy Machine 101

Movement
Three-dimensional horological movement developed in-house by MB&F
Movement aesthetics and finish specifications: Kari Voutilainen
Manual winding with single mainspring barrel
Power reserve: 45 hours
Balance wheel: Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the movement and dials
Balance spring: traditional Breguet curve terminating in mobile stud holder
Balance frequency: 18,000bph/2.5Hz
Number of components: 229 components
Number of jewels: 23
Chatons: gold chatons with polished countersinks
Fine finishing: superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; frosted dial plate for the “Frost editions”; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings

Functions
Hours, minutes and power reserve indicator
Large suspended balance wheel over dial

Case
Available in 18k red gold or 18k white gold, in platinum 950 (33 pieces), in palladium 950 (18 pieces) and in two frosted editions in 18k red gold (33 pieces) and 18k yellow gold (18 pieces).
Dimensions: 40mm wide x 16mm high
Number of components: 35
Sapphire crystals: High domed sapphire crystal on top and box sapphire crystal on back, both with anti-reflective coating on both sides.

Strap
Black or brown hand-stitched alligator strap with gold, platinum or palladium buckle to match case.

Project LpX by MB&F and Loupe System

MB&F presents Project LpX, an art-piece created in partnership with Loupe System, manufactures of the most advanced portable magnifying loupes in the world today.

The Project LpX is an intergalactic magnification station enabling accurate viewing of watch movement details, while simultaneously reminding you of the immensity of our galaxy. Five elements combine to make a rocket entity much larger than the sum of its parts.

This versatile rocket ship offers dust-free storage of the highest quality magnification loupes. When you turn off the lights, you will discover an eerie greenish glow emanating from underneath the rocket base, making the capsule appear to lift right off the desk.

Project LpX is made up of five modular parts, perfectly packaged in a sturdy travel case:

The Base
The anodized aluminium rocket base contains a tritium capsule “booster” emitting a cosmic glow in the dark, making it ready for take-off in search of new life forms. The light comes from a self-luminous tritium capsule with a half-life of 15 years; torches/flashlights using the same technology were part of the equipment that NASA issued to Apollo astronauts. The glow requires no supplementary power sources and it is not affected by temperature, humidity, or altitude. Polished and satin-finished stainless steel, non-articulated landing struts are also attached to the base so that Project LpX can stand on its own.

Three Modular Body Components
The rocket can be configured to accommodate one, two, or three Loupe System loupes, each hidden inside the rocket to be revealed at the owner’s leisure (and pleasure). The three anodized aluminium “stage” components attach to each other using a clicking bayonet system (similar to the lens mount for an SLR camera),making them easy to assemble and disassemble (or play with). Project LpX comes with two Loupe System loupes in different strengths: 3x and 6x magnification.

The Nose Cone
The anodized aluminium top rocket section doesn’t just minimise aerodynamic drag, it points toward space providing a constant reminder that there’s more to discover out there. The nose cone can be attached to any of the modular “stage” components using the same bayonet system.