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VOUTILAINEN Watches – Models with Technical Specifications, Price, Brand Details, History, News and Archives

ZENITH X Voutilainen X Phillips Niobium Cal 135-O, Unique Piece

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo and ZENITH presents the latest watch from a long-standing collaboration, ahead of The Geneva Watch Auction: XVI. Presented in June 2022, the ZENITH X Voutilainen X Phillips 10-piece limited edition platinum Cal 135-O was sold out within minutes. Phillips will now offer an 11th yet unique example, cased in Niobium with a striking salmon guilloché dial.

The ZENITH X Voutilainen X Phillips Niobium Niobium Cal 135-O watch will be included in the highlights tour to Hong Kong, Singapore and London. The auction preview will then open in Geneva on 2 November before the live auction on 5 and 6 November at the Hôtel La Réserve.

Following the launch of two Phillips edition ZENITH El Primero models in 2019, the auction house and watch manufacture turned their attention to working with the iconic vintage calibre 135, one of the most renowned ZENITH movements from the golden age of observatory chronometry competitions. ZENITH went a step further by offering a handful of the Calibre 135 “O” variant, which were made solely to take part in chronometry competitions.

Zenith Cal 135-O

The movements used in this collaborative come from a very small stock of Cal 135-O from the “serial winning” years, having participated in the prestigious Neuchatel Observatory trials in 1950-1954 and winning the top awards.

Calibre 135 was designed with Observatory trials in mind and with a 5mm height and a 30mm diameter – the maximum dimension to enter the wristwatch category competition. Its design was based on the idea of having an extremely large 14mm balance wheel to enhance precision and rate stability, and a large barrel to deliver consistent power to the regulator.

The Calibre 135 was produced from 1949 to 1962 in two distinct versions: a commercial variant, and an “O” iteration made solely for observatory chronometry competitions. Never commercialised, the Calibre 135-O received over 230 chronometry prizes, a record in the history of watchmaking.

These movements, with Guillaume balance, were prepared for the competitions and fine-tuned yearlong by the ZENITH “chronométriers” Charles Fleck and René Gygax. Each of them was awarded prizes in the first category range.

Observatory movements are competition grade movements and were not made to be cased and sold, as such their overall finish was utilitarian and not aesthetic. Furthermore, the movements having been dormant for over 65 years needed to be disassembled, each component tested, tolerances checked, oiled and reassembled.

ZENITH X Voutilainen X Phillips Collaboration

This collaborative project was initiated by Phillips’ Aurel Bacs and Alexandre Ghotbi. Kari Voutilainen and his team painstakingly took apart every movement, refurbished them, and made them completely fit to be cased in a wristwatch, adding the signature “Voutilainen” finish along the way. Eleven movements were available but only ten were cased in platinum with a black dial. It was decided from the very beginning that the 11th movement would be used in a unique piece to be sold for charity.

The case is made of niobium. The dial is salmon in colour with guilloché exterior, the movement number is printed in the seconds subdial, and the movement has a pink gold finish (as opposed to the gilt finish of the limited-edition models). The movement used within dates from 1953 and ran in the Neuchatel Observatory trials the same year when it received the highest points.

All proceeds of the sale of the unique niobium watch will go to the Susan G. Komen® Breast Cancer Foundation.

Technical details

Model: ZENITH X Voutilainen X Phillips Niobium Cal 135-O, Unique Piece
Reference: 13.1350.135/35.C100

Movement
Calibre 135, Manual
Frequency :18,000 VpH (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: approx. 40 hours
Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre. Small seconds at 6 o’clock
Finishes: Meticulous traditional hand-finishing and decoration on the movement

Case
Material: Niobium
Water resistance: 3 ATM
Case diameter: 38 mm

Dial
Sterling silver dial with salmon matte finishing. Applied indexes and dot markers
Hour markers: Ruthenium-plated and faceted German silver
Hands: Ruthenium-plated and faceted Gold hands

Bracelet
Black calfskin leather with titanium pin Buckle Thickness: 10.35 mm Lug to lug: 46.50 mm Lug width: 19 mm

Estimate
CHF 100,000-200,000

Auction details

The Geneva Watch Auction: XVI
Session I: 5 November 2022, 2pm
Session II: 6 November 2022, 2pm
Location: Hôtel La Réserve, Bellevue, Geneva

DE BETHUNE x VOUTILAINEN Kind of Magic for Only Watch 2021

Specially created for the Only Watch 2021 charity auction, this unique timepiece reflects the enchanting alliance between two watchmakers, Denis Flageollet and Kari Voutilainen, based on mutual respect, a common vision of watchmaking and a unique sense of independence.

Equipped with two dials, this perfectly reversible watch embodies the union between two distinct but identical watchmaking worlds.

This one-of-a-kind horological marvel is made of grade 5 titanium. The movement has a power reserve of 4 days.

Technical details

Model: Kind of Magic for Only Watch 2021

Case
Polished grade 5 titanium
43.3mm diameter

Dial
Black hour ring with rose gold index, black minutes dial with rose gold colour transfer

Display
Hand-polished and blued titanium hours and minutes indicators
Peripheral minutes indication
Hours indication centered on balance wheel

Movement
Calibre OW21: Dual front and back display of hours and minute, jumping seconds
Isogone display
Dead Beat Second
4 days power reserve, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel
Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimized for temperature differences and air penetration
Balance-spring with flat terminal curve
Silicon escape wheel

Bracelet
Extra-supple alligator, leather lining

Voutilainen T11 Pocket Watch for Only Watch 2019

The Voutilainen TP1 pocket watch embodies the perfection enshrined in Kari Voutilainen’s philosophy. The elegant and robust mechanism is housed in TV screen style case. This unique pocket watch is fitted with a LeCoultre ebauche movement.

Donated for the Only Watch 2019 charity event, this unique pocket watch is the first watch made together by Kari Voutilainen and his daughter Venla, who is freshly graduated from Watchmaking School. The choice of the design of the case and dial was made by Kari. Decoration of the movement as well colors was the choice of Venla.

Technical details

Model: Voutilainen TP1 Pocket watch

Case
Titanium
Dimensions: 50.30 x 50.30 x 14 mm

Dial
Engine-turned, made from solid silver

Movement
TP manual wound movement

Strap
Leather attachment

Voutilainen ‘28ti’ Wristwatch

The Voutilainen 28ti wristwatch perfectly encapsulates the philosophy of Kari Voutilainen. Its elegant and strong mechanism is housed in a stylish and robust case.

The in-house movement of the Vingt-8 was designed, built, fabricated, finished and assembled in its entirety in Voutilainen workshops. The design and philosophy of the movement combines respect for longevity and precision with classical watchmaking tradition.

The movement has a very large balance wheel manufactured in-house, allowing perfect regulation of the watch to within strict tolerances. To equip such an exceptional timepiece, a very rare and unique balance- spring system has been used. The exterior of the spring uses a typical Phillips overcoil, while the internal curve uses the little known Grossmann curve.

The escapement makes the movement very special; this is the first watch to have two escapement wheels in such a configuration. The escapement wheels give a direct impulse to the balance through the impulse roller/jewel. This escapement is extremely efficient and requires much less energy than traditional lever escapements, offering benefits in terms of longevity and stability in day-to-day use.

The balance-wheel bridge is sublimely elegant, offering an unimpeded view of the escapement and balance. It also allows the enthusiast to admire the extremely neat synchronized movements while watching the time.
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This Voutilainen watch is finished to the highest standards. The surfaces of pinions and wheels are completely flat and highly polished to within exceptionally uniform tolerances. All finishing work on the main plate and bridges is by hand to achieve the highest possible levels of surface finish. Screws and all steel parts are finished and polished by hand.

Technical details

Model: Voutilainen ‘28ti’ wristwatch

Movement
In-house movement
Design, construction, fabrication, finishing and assembly in Voutilainen workshops
30mm x 8.45mm movement
New escapement, with two escapement wheels, direct impulse
Main plate and bridges manufactured from German silver.
Wheels manufactured from white gold.
32 jewels
299 components
65-hour power reserve
Free sprung balance wheel with rose gold timing weights frequency of 18,000 v.p.h.
Balance diameter 13.60mm with Phillips/Grossmann balance spiral

Case
39mm x 13.40mm thick titanium case, manufactured in house
Titanium crown
Sapphire glasses front and back, anti reflection treatment on front

Dial
Silver dial made in house
Gold hands

Strap
Hand sewn crocodile strap with 18-carat white gold buckle

Voutilainen 28 E Wristwatch

The Voutilainen 28 E wristwatch perfectly encapsulates the philosophy of Kari Voutilainen. Its elegant and strong mechanism is housed in a stylish and robust case.

The in-house movement of the Vingt-8 was designed, built, fabricated, finished and assembled in its entirety in Voutilainen workshops. The design and philosophy of the movement combines respect for longevity and precision with classical watchmaking tradition.

The movement has a very large balance wheel manufactured in-house, allowing perfect regulation of the watch to within strict tolerances. To equip such an exceptional timepiece, a very rare and unique balance- spring system has been used. The exterior of the spring uses a typical Phillips overcoil, while the internal curve uses the little known Grossmann curve.

The escapement makes the movement very special; this is the first watch to have two escapement wheels in such a configuration. The escapement wheels give a direct impulse to the balance through the impulse roller/jewel. This escapement is extremely efficient and requires much less energy than traditional lever escapements, offering benefits in terms of longevity and stability in day-to-day use.

The balance-wheel bridge is sublimely elegant, offering an unimpeded view of the escapement and balance. It also allows the enthusiast to admire the synchronized movements of the escapement wheels.

The watch is finished to the highest standards. The surfaces of pinions and wheels are completely flat and highly polished to within exceptionally uniform tolerances. All finishing work on the main plate and bridges is by hand to achieve the highest possible levels of surface finish. Screws and all steel parts are finished and polished by hand.

The elegant dial is entirely fabricated in house. Dial is made from gold and is completely covered with “grand feu” enamel.

Technical details

Voutilainen 28 E wristwatch

– In-house movement. Design, construction, fabrication, finishing and assembly in
Voutilainen workshops
– 30mm x 5.60mm movement
– New escapement, with two escapement wheels, direct impulse
– Main plate and bridges manufactured from German silver
– Wheels manufactured from rose gold
– 21 jewels
– 65-hours power reserve
– Free sprung balance wheel with rose gold timing weights frequency of
18,000 v.p.h.
– Balance diameter 13.60mm with Phillips/Grossmann balance spiral
– 39mm x 11.5mm thick, titanium case and crown, manufactured in house
– Sapphire glasses front and back, anti-reflection treatment on front
– Solid gold dial made in house covered with “grand feu” enamel
– Hand sewn crocodile strap with titanium buckle

VOUTILAINEN

Born in Finland in 1962 , Kari Voutilainen completed his initial watchmaker’s training at the world renowned watchmaking school of Tapiola in Finland.

He first came to Switzerland in 1989 to attend the International Watchmaking School, where he completed the WOSTEP complicated watch course, a post graduate course for those watchmakers dedicated to the restoration of complicated, high quality rare watches.

He was quickly spotted by Parmigiani Mesure et Art du Temps, where over the following ten years he was at the centre of the restoration work of some of the world’s rarest pieces as well as the creation of new and original ‘one-off’ pieces.

Giving back to others much of the fruit of his experience, Kari Voutilainen taught for the next three years at the WOSTEP School of Watchmaking, heading the department of complicated watchmaking. He also undertook the complete training of beginners, and added many new courses to the curriculum that he had devised himself.

He is the first to commend the kind and generous teaching of those master watchmakers who have passed on their ‘centuries old’ watchmaking knowledge. Alongside his professional work, Kari Voutilainen has devoted himself, through many long evenings of tireless work over the last fifteen years, to developing the ultimate perfection of new and unique mechanisms, which are represented in his highly elegant watches.

Following his passion, and in order to preserve this highly prized tradition, Kari Voutilainen established his own business as an independent Artist Watchmaker in the village of Môtiers in 2002. The beautiful and tranquil region of ‘Val-de-Travers’ gives itself by its very nature to thoughtful and creative watchmaking. Distant markets as far away as China have been conquered by the works of past Masters from this region.

Kari Voutilainen’s natural gift for perfection, coupled with his broad experience and deep understanding of very high quality, antique, complicated watches, are the quintessential ingredients for innovative creation in the art of watchmaking. Not one to satisfy himself by imagined creations alone, he makes all of his creations himself. He is totally involved in every detail whether technical or aesthetic; like a true artist or sculptor, nothing is left to chance.

Only this way can his masterpiece timekeepers, based on solid technical foundations and incorporating timeless classical design, pass from generation to generation as the inheritance of a time honoured and proudly maintained tradition.

As with all entirely handmade watches, their number will remain limited; each one is rafted according to specific requirements and has its own individual and personal qualities. It goes without saying that these technical marvels are clothed and protected only by the most precious of metals. It is for these reasons that pieces signed by Kari Voutilainen will make their mark in the history of watchmaking, to the great delight of those collectors fortunate enough to own one.

Official website: http://www.voutilainen.ch/

Voutilainen ‘217QRS’ Wristwatch

Presented in limited editions of platinum, white gold and rose gold versions, the Voutilainen 217QRS wristwatch perfectly encapsulates the philosophy of Swiss master watch maker Kari Voutilainen.

Dressed in a stylish and elegant case measuring 39mm, the watch is powered with an in-house movement inspired from Vingt-8 and designed, built, fabricated, finished and assembled entirety in Voutilainen workshops.

Retrograde date mechanism is unique construction entirely integrated in main plate. Setting the date cannot be easier to do by pressing the crown down. One press makes the date hand advance one day. Special mechanism is created for the return of the date hand from 31st to 1st. Date hand comes slowly back to 1. By doing this, mechanism will work surely avoiding bouncing once arriving at first day.

The movement has a very large balance wheel manufactured in-house, allowing perfect regulation of the watch to within strict tolerances. To equip such an exceptional timepiece, a very rare and unique balance- spring system has been used. The exterior of the spring uses a typical Phillips overcoil, while the internal curve uses the little known Grossmann curve.

The escapement makes the movement very special; this is the first watch to have two escapement wheels in such a configuration. The escapement wheels give a direct impulse to the balance through the impulse roller/jewel. This escapement is extremely efficient and requires much less energy than traditional lever escapements, offering benefits in terms of longevity and stability in day-to-day use.

The balance-wheel bridge is sublimely elegant, offering an unimpeded view of the escapement and balance. It also allows the enthusiast to admire the synchronized movements of the escapement wheels.

The watch is finished to the highest standards. The surfaces of pinions and wheels are completely flat and highly polished to within exceptionally uniform tolerances. All finishing work on the main plate and bridges is made by hand to achieve the highest possible levels of surface finish. Screws and all steel parts are finished and polished by hand.

Technical details
Model: Voutilainen ‘217QRS’ wristwatch
– In-house movement. Design, construction, fabrication, finishing and assembly in Voutilainen workshops
– 30mm x 5.60mm movement
– New escapement, with two escapement wheels, direct impulse
– Main plate and bridges manufactured from German silver
– Wheels manufactured from rose gold
– 39 jewels
– Integrated retrograde date mechanism
– 65-hour power reserve
– Free sprung balance wheel with rose gold timing weights frequency of 18,000 v.p.h.
– Balance diameter 13.60mm with Breguet/Grossmann balance spiral
– Case diameter: 39mm and thickness: 11.5mm
– Unique case design
– Sapphire glasses front and back, anti reflection treatment on both sides
– Total series of 30 watches: 10 platinum, 10 white gold, 10 rose gold
– Engine-turned silver dial with gold applied numerals and gold hands
– Hand sewn crocodile strap with 18-carat gold buckle

Voutilainen 28 Aki-No-Kure

Kari Voutilainen has partnered with a famous lacquer studio in Japan to create the extra ordinary 28 Aki-No-Kure timepiece.

One of the greatest lacquer studios in the world is Unryuan in Wajima town in Japan. Under the guidance of Mr. T. Kitamura, they create works of lacquer art that stand at the pinnacle of Japanese tradition, bringing a craft that has existed for hundreds of years into the present, exemplifying the passion to preserve the soul, spirit and identity of traditional Japanese culture as expressed in the Edo period. This kind of work of art made hundreds of years ago is still here today, it can be restored and remains like new even we touch and manipulate lacquer with human hands. This superlative work engages us immediately on a physical level and one can only stand in awe at the commitment, patience and dedication required to create these works of art. This masterpiece shown here; using the techniques of lacquering which takes far more than thousand hours of work to complete the dial, bridges and cover of the case back. The raw materials for its creation are: Kinpun (gold dust), Jyunkin-itakane (gold leaf), Yakou-gai (shell of great green turban) and Awabi-gai (abalone shell from New Zealand).

This bespoke watch been inspired from late autumn scene with the spirit of circle of life. This symbiosis of Japanese tradition with the Swiss haute horlogerie creations of Kari Voutilainen represents an all-embracing mechanical and visual work of art that unites the East and West in perfect harmony.

The theme selected for this Voutilainen watch is Aki-No-Kure that means “the scene in late autumn” and there is a notion hidden behind the theme, “the circle of life”. Late autumn represents the wheel of life [regeneration] takes place for spring. UNRYUAN (Tatsuo Kitamura).

The stunning watch dial describes ears of Japanese pampas grass [miscanthus sinensis] are forming full ears in the autumn breeze. Also, it reminds of the fantastic effects to move in ripple or surging waves. It is depicted using the technique, TOGIDASHI-MAKIE [burnished MAKIE], TAKA-MAKIE [raised MAKIE] embossed gilt lacquer work in gold, and RADEN [mother-of-pearl inlay work] on the top of surface. The materials are black lacquer, gold powder, turban shell and abalone shell.

On the inside part of case back, a dragonfly and ripples on water nearby a field of pampas grass. The decorating techniques used here are SAIEI-MAKIE, TOGIDASHI-MAKIE, TAKA-MAKIE, ARADASHI-MAKIE [rough-finishing MAKIE], and RADEN. The materials are gold powder, gold leaf, turban shell (wing), abalone shell (ripple), black lacquer, vermilion-lacquer (body).In Japan the dragonfly is known as the victory insect (kachimushi) because of its hunting prowess and also it is known to never retreat.

Opening the case back, you can admire a meticulously decorated, in house movement. This manual winding movement crafted in German silver and titanium is decorated with utilizing the technique of SAIEI-MAKIE. The materials are gold leaf, abalone shell, black lacquer, “glass-particle”.

Outside part of the case back features a spider, which considered as auspicious, a good omen. This decoration incorporates an ancient technique of inlaying gold, KINZOUGAN (by a Japanese Metal & Tosogu artist, Koshiro Izumi). The web is carved on white gold and inlaid with different gold. The spider is made of a Japanese alloy of copper and inlaid with gold. The materials are gold, Shakudō.

Technical details
Model: Voutilainen 28 Aki-No-Kure

Movement
Unique, in house designed movement with hours and minutes
New direct impulse escapement with two escapement wheels
Dimensions: 30mm x 5.60mm with pure German silver main plate and bridges made from German silver and titanium with Art decoration made by the legendary Japanese lacquer studio Unryuan
Wheels in gold
Jewels: 21
Free sprung balance (wheel diameter 13.60mm) with Grossman interior curve and Philips exterior curve, beating at 18,000 vph

Dial
Unique art piece created by the legendary Japanese lacquer studio Unryuan
Hands: gold and steel, hand made
All manufacturing, construction, fabrication, hand finishing and assembly in the Voutilainen workshop

Case
Made from 18ct high palladium gold , diameter of the case is 39.00mm
Sapphire glass front and back, with anti reflection treatment

Buckle and strap
18K white gold tang buckle and alligator strap

Rarity
Limited to 1 unique example

Notes
MAKIE is lacquer work, the decoration technique, in which designs or patterns are drawn in lacquer (urushi), over which gold powder is sprinkled [scattered] while the lacquer is wet to secure the design on the surface.
RADEN is mother-of-pearl inlay work, the decoration technique in which designs or patterns are drawn in lacquer (urushi), gold powder, pieces of cut gold leaf, turban and abalone shell.
Shakudō is a billon of gold and copper (typically 4–10% gold, 96–90% copper) which can be treated to form an indigo/black
KINZOUGAN is a technique used to decorate sword (katana) fittings, particularly sword hand guard (tsuba).

Voutilainen Vingt-8 ISO

Unveiled at SIHH 2017, the Vingt-8 ISO wristwatch created by master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen boasts a completely innovative display of the time based on System 1 and System 2 human behaviour, as studied by Nobel Prize-winner Daniel Kahneman.

The time displaying pattern of the Vingt-8 ISO is briefly enumerated below:-
1. At the top of each hour, the minute hand overlaps the hour hand.
2. On every half hour, the minute and hours hands are opposite.
3. The circle of minutes turns at the same rate as the hour hand for easy reading.
4. The angle between the hour hand and the minute hand remains the same regardless of the time.
5. The position of the hour and minute hands, with respect to the other is always according to the minutes, whatever the hour is.

Daniel Kahneman, world renowned psychologist and Nobel Prize laureate in economics for Creating the field of Behavioral Economics, published Thinking, Fast and Slow. He describes two different ways to brain form thoughts – System 1 and System 2. Telling time by looking at a wrist watch is a result of a System 1 activity: a glance suffices because the « code » is so deep and familiar that in an instant you know the time without having to think twice. The Vingt-8 ISO counters this code; conforming to Kahneman’s System 2 behavior. You cannot read the time; you have to switch to System 2. It now creates a more intimate and reflective relationship with this watch – it takes a few seconds now to know the time; But you know the time better with the Vingt-8 ISO because your attention is keener.

The stylish 18k pink gold case measuring 39mm diameter houses an in-house mechanical hand-wound movement designed, built, fabricated, finished and assembled in Voutilainen workshop. The design and philosophy of the movement combines respect for longevity and precision with classical watchmaking tradition.

The movement has a very large scale manufactured in-house, allowing perfect regulation of the watch to within tolerances. To equip such an exceptional timepiece, a very rare and unique balance-spring system has been used. Phillips overcoil, while the internal curve uses the little known Grossmann curve.

This is the first watch to have two escapement wheels in such a configuration. The escapement wheels give a direct impulse to the balance through the impulse roller / jewel. This escapement is extremely efficient and requires much less energy than traditional lifting escapements, offering benefits in terms of longevity and stability in day-to-day use. The balance-wheel bridge is sublimely elegant, offering an unimpeded view of the escapement and balance. It also allows the enthusiast to admire the synchronized movements of the escapement wheels.

The watch features finishing of the highest standards. The surfaces of pinions and wheels are completely flat and highly polished to exceptionally uniform tolerances. All finishing work on the main plate and bridges is by hand to achieve the highest possible levels of surface finish. Screws and all steel parts are finished and polished by hand.

Technical details
Movement
Mechanical hand-wound, Vingt-8 calibre, designed, made and finished in the Voutilainen workshops, 33 jewels, 18,000 vib/h, new escapement with two escape wheels and direct impulse, Breguet/Grossmann balance-spring, plate and bridges in German silver, pink gold wheels, 65-hour power reserve

Functions
Hours, minutes

Case
18k pink gold, 39 mm. Anti-reflective sapphire crystal, front and back

Dial

Guilloché silver
Gold applied numerals and hands

Strap
Hand-stitched crocodile with 18k gold buckle