ZENITH X Voutilainen X Phillips Niobium Cal 135-O, Unique Piece

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo and ZENITH presents the latest watch from a long-standing collaboration, ahead of The Geneva Watch Auction: XVI.

Presented in June 2022, the ZENITH X Voutilainen X Phillips 10-piece limited edition platinum Cal 135-O was sold out within minutes. Phillips will now offer an 11th yet unique example, cased in Niobium with a striking salmon guilloché dial.

The watch will be included in the highlights tour to Hong Kong, Singapore and London. The auction preview will then open in Geneva on 2 November before the live auction on 5 and 6 November at the Hôtel La Réserve.

ZENITH X Voutilainen X Phillips Niobium Cal 135-O, Unique Piece

Following the launch of two Phillips edition ZENITH El Primero models in 2019, the auction house and watch manufacture turned their attention to working with the iconic vintage calibre 135, one of the most renowned ZENITH movements from the golden age of observatory chronometry competitions. ZENITH went a step further by offering a handful of the Calibre 135 “O” variant, which were made solely to take part in chronometry competitions.

The movements used in this collaborative come from a very small stock of Cal 135-O from the “serial winning” years, having participated in the prestigious Neuchatel Observatory trials in 1950-1954 and winning the top awards.

Calibre 135 was designed with Observatory trials in mind and with a 5mm height and a 30mm diameter – the maximum dimension to enter the wristwatch category competition. Its design was based on the idea of having an extremely large 14mm balance wheel to enhance precision and rate stability, and a large barrel to deliver consistent power to the regulator.

The Calibre 135 was produced from 1949 to 1962 in two distinct versions: a commercial variant, and an “O” iteration made solely for observatory chronometry competitions. Never commercialised, the Calibre 135-O received over 230 chronometry prizes, a record in the history of watchmaking.

These movements, with Guillaume balance, were prepared for the competitions and fine-tuned yearlong by the ZENITH “chronométriers” Charles Fleck and René Gygax. Each of them was awarded prizes in the first category range.

ZENITH X Voutilainen X Phillips Niobium Cal 135-O, Unique Piece

Observatory movements are competition grade movements and were not made to be cased and sold, as such their overall finish was utilitarian and not aesthetic. Furthermore, the movements having been dormant for over 65 years needed to be disassembled, each component tested, tolerances checked, oiled and reassembled. It was decided that Kari Voutilainen was the master watchmaker best placed to make this dream a reality.

Between June 2020 and June 2022, Voutilainen and his team painstakingly took apart every movement, refurbished them, and made them completely fit to be cased in a wristwatch, adding the signature “Voutilainen” finish along the way. Eleven movements were available but only ten were cased in platinum with a black dial. It was decided from the very beginning that the 11th movement would be used in a unique piece to be sold for charity.

The case is made of niobium. The dial is salmon in colour with guilloché exterior, the movement number is printed in the seconds subdial, and the movement has a pink gold finish (as opposed to the gilt finish of the limited-edition models). The movement used within dates from 1953 and ran in the Neuchatel Observatory trials the same year when it received the highest points.

All proceeds of the sale of the unique niobium watch will go to the Susan G. Komen® Breast Cancer Foundation.

Technical details

Model: ZENITH CALIBRE 135 UNIQUE PIECE
Reference: 13.1350.135/35.C100

Movement
Calibre 135, Manual
Frequency :18,000 VpH (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: approx. 40 hours
Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre. Small seconds at 6 o’clock
Finishes: Meticulous traditional hand-finishing and decoration on the movement

Case
Material: Niobium
Water resistance: 3 ATM
Case diameter: 38 mm

Dial
Sterling silver dial with salmon matte finishing. Applied indexes and dot markers
Hour markers: Ruthenium-plated and faceted German silver
Hands: Ruthenium-plated and faceted Gold hands

Bracelet
Black calfskin leather with titanium pin Buckle Thickness: 10.35 mm Lug to lug: 46.50 mm Lug width: 19 mm

Estimate
CHF 100,000-200,000

Auction details

The Geneva Watch Auction: XVI
Session I: 5 November 2022, 2pm
Session II: 6 November 2022, 2pm
Location: Hôtel La Réserve, Bellevue, Geneva

DE BETHUNE x VOUTILAINEN Kind of Magic for Only Watch 2021

Specially created for the Only Watch 2021 charity auction, this unique timepiece reflects the enchanting alliance between two watchmakers, Denis Flageollet and Kari Voutilainen, based on mutual respect, a common vision of watchmaking and a unique sense of independence.

DE BETHUNE x VOUTILAINEN Kind of Magic for Only Watch 2021

Equipped with two dials, this perfectly reversible watch embodies the union between two distinct but identical watchmaking worlds.

DE BETHUNE x VOUTILAINEN Kind of Magic for Only Watch 2021

This one-of-a-kind horological marvel is made of grade 5 titanium. The movement has a power reserve of 4 days.

DE BETHUNE x VOUTILAINEN Kind of Magic for Only Watch 2021

Technical details

Model: Kind of Magic for Only Watch 2021

Case
Polished grade 5 titanium
43.3mm diameter

Dial
Black hour ring with rose gold index, black minutes dial with rose gold colour transfer

Display
Hand-polished and blued titanium hours and minutes indicators
Peripheral minutes indication
Hours indication centered on balance wheel

Movement
Calibre OW21: Dual front and back display of hours and minute, jumping seconds
Isogone display
Dead Beat Second
4 days power reserve, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel
Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimized for temperature differences and air penetration
Balance-spring with flat terminal curve
Silicon escape wheel

Bracelet
Extra-supple alligator, leather lining

Voutilainen T11 Pocket Watch for Only Watch 2019

The Voutilainen TP1 pocket watch embodies the perfection enshrined in Kari Voutilainen’s philosophy. The elegant and robust mechanism is housed in TV screen style case. This unique pocket watch is fitted with a LeCoultre ebauche movement.

Voutilainen T11 Pocket Watch for Only Watch 2019

Donated for the Only Watch 2019 charity event, this unique pocket watch is the first watch made together by Kari Voutilainen and his daughter Venla, who is freshly graduated from Watchmaking School. The choice of the design of the case and dial was made by Kari. Decoration of the movement as well colors was the choice of Venla.

Technical details

Model: Voutilainen TP1 Pocket watch

Case
Titanium
Dimensions: 50.30 x 50.30 x 14 mm

Dial
Engine-turned, made from solid silver

Movement
TP manual wound movement

Strap
Leather attachment

Voutilainen ‘28ti’ Wristwatch

The Voutilainen 28ti wristwatch perfectly encapsulates the philosophy of Kari Voutilainen. Its elegant and strong mechanism is housed in a stylish and robust case.

The in-house movement of the Vingt-8 was designed, built, fabricated, finished and assembled in its entirety in Voutilainen workshops. The design and philosophy of the movement combines respect for longevity and precision with classical watchmaking tradition.

The movement has a very large balance wheel manufactured in-house, allowing perfect regulation of the watch to within strict tolerances. To equip such an exceptional timepiece, a very rare and unique balance- spring system has been used. The exterior of the spring uses a typical Phillips overcoil, while the internal curve uses the little known Grossmann curve.

The escapement makes the movement very special; this is the first watch to have two escapement wheels in such a configuration. The escapement wheels give a direct impulse to the balance through the impulse roller/jewel. This escapement is extremely efficient and requires much less energy than traditional lever escapements, offering benefits in terms of longevity and stability in day-to-day use.

The balance-wheel bridge is sublimely elegant, offering an unimpeded view of the escapement and balance. It also allows the enthusiast to admire the extremely neat synchronized movements while watching the time.
.
This Voutilainen watch is finished to the highest standards. The surfaces of pinions and wheels are completely flat and highly polished to within exceptionally uniform tolerances. All finishing work on the main plate and bridges is by hand to achieve the highest possible levels of surface finish. Screws and all steel parts are finished and polished by hand.

Technical details

Model: Voutilainen ‘28ti’ wristwatch

Movement
In-house movement
Design, construction, fabrication, finishing and assembly in Voutilainen workshops
30mm x 8.45mm movement
New escapement, with two escapement wheels, direct impulse
Main plate and bridges manufactured from German silver.
Wheels manufactured from white gold.
32 jewels
299 components
65-hour power reserve
Free sprung balance wheel with rose gold timing weights frequency of 18,000 v.p.h.
Balance diameter 13.60mm with Phillips/Grossmann balance spiral

Case
39mm x 13.40mm thick titanium case, manufactured in house
Titanium crown
Sapphire glasses front and back, anti reflection treatment on front

Dial
Silver dial made in house
Gold hands

Strap
Hand sewn crocodile strap with 18-carat white gold buckle

Voutilainen 28 E Wristwatch

The Voutilainen 28 E wristwatch perfectly encapsulates the philosophy of Kari Voutilainen. Its elegant and strong mechanism is housed in a stylish and robust case.

The in-house movement of the Vingt-8 was designed, built, fabricated, finished and assembled in its entirety in Voutilainen workshops. The design and philosophy of the movement combines respect for longevity and precision with classical watchmaking tradition.

The movement has a very large balance wheel manufactured in-house, allowing perfect regulation of the watch to within strict tolerances. To equip such an exceptional timepiece, a very rare and unique balance- spring system has been used. The exterior of the spring uses a typical Phillips overcoil, while the internal curve uses the little known Grossmann curve.

The escapement makes the movement very special; this is the first watch to have two escapement wheels in such a configuration. The escapement wheels give a direct impulse to the balance through the impulse roller/jewel. This escapement is extremely efficient and requires much less energy than traditional lever escapements, offering benefits in terms of longevity and stability in day-to-day use.

The balance-wheel bridge is sublimely elegant, offering an unimpeded view of the escapement and balance. It also allows the enthusiast to admire the synchronized movements of the escapement wheels.

The watch is finished to the highest standards. The surfaces of pinions and wheels are completely flat and highly polished to within exceptionally uniform tolerances. All finishing work on the main plate and bridges is by hand to achieve the highest possible levels of surface finish. Screws and all steel parts are finished and polished by hand.

The elegant dial is entirely fabricated in house. Dial is made from gold and is completely covered with “grand feu” enamel.

Technical details

Voutilainen 28 E wristwatch

– In-house movement. Design, construction, fabrication, finishing and assembly in
Voutilainen workshops
– 30mm x 5.60mm movement
– New escapement, with two escapement wheels, direct impulse
– Main plate and bridges manufactured from German silver
– Wheels manufactured from rose gold
– 21 jewels
– 65-hours power reserve
– Free sprung balance wheel with rose gold timing weights frequency of
18,000 v.p.h.
– Balance diameter 13.60mm with Phillips/Grossmann balance spiral
– 39mm x 11.5mm thick, titanium case and crown, manufactured in house
– Sapphire glasses front and back, anti-reflection treatment on front
– Solid gold dial made in house covered with “grand feu” enamel
– Hand sewn crocodile strap with titanium buckle

VOUTILAINEN

Born in Finland in 1962 , Kari Voutilainen completed his initial watchmaker’s training at the world renowned watchmaking school of Tapiola in Finland.

He first came to Switzerland in 1989 to attend the International Watchmaking School, where he completed the WOSTEP complicated watch course, a post graduate course for those watchmakers dedicated to the restoration of complicated, high quality rare watches.

He was quickly spotted by Parmigiani Mesure et Art du Temps, where over the following ten years he was at the centre of the restoration work of some of the world’s rarest pieces as well as the creation of new and original ‘one-off’ pieces.

Giving back to others much of the fruit of his experience, Kari Voutilainen taught for the next three years at the WOSTEP School of Watchmaking, heading the department of complicated watchmaking. He also undertook the complete training of beginners, and added many new courses to the curriculum that he had devised himself.

He is the first to commend the kind and generous teaching of those master watchmakers who have passed on their ‘centuries old’ watchmaking knowledge. Alongside his professional work, Kari Voutilainen has devoted himself, through many long evenings of tireless work over the last fifteen years, to developing the ultimate perfection of new and unique mechanisms, which are represented in his highly elegant watches.

Following his passion, and in order to preserve this highly prized tradition, Kari Voutilainen established his own business as an independent Artist Watchmaker in the village of Môtiers in 2002. The beautiful and tranquil region of ‘Val-de-Travers’ gives itself by its very nature to thoughtful and creative watchmaking. Distant markets as far away as China have been conquered by the works of past Masters from this region.

Kari Voutilainen’s natural gift for perfection, coupled with his broad experience and deep understanding of very high quality, antique, complicated watches, are the quintessential ingredients for innovative creation in the art of watchmaking. Not one to satisfy himself by imagined creations alone, he makes all of his creations himself. He is totally involved in every detail whether technical or aesthetic; like a true artist or sculptor, nothing is left to chance.

Only this way can his masterpiece timekeepers, based on solid technical foundations and incorporating timeless classical design, pass from generation to generation as the inheritance of a time honoured and proudly maintained tradition.

As with all entirely handmade watches, their number will remain limited; each one is rafted according to specific requirements and has its own individual and personal qualities. It goes without saying that these technical marvels are clothed and protected only by the most precious of metals. It is for these reasons that pieces signed by Kari Voutilainen will make their mark in the history of watchmaking, to the great delight of those collectors fortunate enough to own one.

Official website: http://www.voutilainen.ch/

Voutilainen ‘217QRS’ Wristwatch

Presented in limited editions of platinum, white gold and rose gold versions, the Voutilainen 217QRS wristwatch perfectly encapsulates the philosophy of Swiss master watch maker Kari Voutilainen.

Dressed in a stylish and elegant case measuring 39mm, the watch is powered with an in-house movement inspired from Vingt-8 and designed, built, fabricated, finished and assembled entirety in Voutilainen workshops.

Retrograde date mechanism is unique construction entirely integrated in main plate. Setting the date cannot be easier to do by pressing the crown down. One press makes the date hand advance one day. Special mechanism is created for the return of the date hand from 31st to 1st. Date hand comes slowly back to 1. By doing this, mechanism will work surely avoiding bouncing once arriving at first day.

The movement has a very large balance wheel manufactured in-house, allowing perfect regulation of the watch to within strict tolerances. To equip such an exceptional timepiece, a very rare and unique balance- spring system has been used. The exterior of the spring uses a typical Phillips overcoil, while the internal curve uses the little known Grossmann curve.

The escapement makes the movement very special; this is the first watch to have two escapement wheels in such a configuration. The escapement wheels give a direct impulse to the balance through the impulse roller/jewel. This escapement is extremely efficient and requires much less energy than traditional lever escapements, offering benefits in terms of longevity and stability in day-to-day use.

The balance-wheel bridge is sublimely elegant, offering an unimpeded view of the escapement and balance. It also allows the enthusiast to admire the synchronized movements of the escapement wheels.

The watch is finished to the highest standards. The surfaces of pinions and wheels are completely flat and highly polished to within exceptionally uniform tolerances. All finishing work on the main plate and bridges is made by hand to achieve the highest possible levels of surface finish. Screws and all steel parts are finished and polished by hand.

Technical details
Model: Voutilainen ‘217QRS’ wristwatch
– In-house movement. Design, construction, fabrication, finishing and assembly in Voutilainen workshops
– 30mm x 5.60mm movement
– New escapement, with two escapement wheels, direct impulse
– Main plate and bridges manufactured from German silver
– Wheels manufactured from rose gold
– 39 jewels
– Integrated retrograde date mechanism
– 65-hour power reserve
– Free sprung balance wheel with rose gold timing weights frequency of 18,000 v.p.h.
– Balance diameter 13.60mm with Breguet/Grossmann balance spiral
– Case diameter: 39mm and thickness: 11.5mm
– Unique case design
– Sapphire glasses front and back, anti reflection treatment on both sides
– Total series of 30 watches: 10 platinum, 10 white gold, 10 rose gold
– Engine-turned silver dial with gold applied numerals and gold hands
– Hand sewn crocodile strap with 18-carat gold buckle

Voutilainen 28 Aki-No-Kure

Kari Voutilainen has partnered with a famous lacquer studio in Japan to create the extra ordinary 28 Aki-No-Kure timepiece.

One of the greatest lacquer studios in the world is Unryuan in Wajima town in Japan. Under the guidance of Mr. T. Kitamura, they create works of lacquer art that stand at the pinnacle of Japanese tradition, bringing a craft that has existed for hundreds of years into the present, exemplifying the passion to preserve the soul, spirit and identity of traditional Japanese culture as expressed in the Edo period. This kind of work of art made hundreds of years ago is still here today, it can be restored and remains like new even we touch and manipulate lacquer with human hands. This superlative work engages us immediately on a physical level and one can only stand in awe at the commitment, patience and dedication required to create these works of art. This masterpiece shown here; using the techniques of lacquering which takes far more than thousand hours of work to complete the dial, bridges and cover of the case back. The raw materials for its creation are: Kinpun (gold dust), Jyunkin-itakane (gold leaf), Yakou-gai (shell of great green turban) and Awabi-gai (abalone shell from New Zealand).

This bespoke watch been inspired from late autumn scene with the spirit of circle of life. This symbiosis of Japanese tradition with the Swiss haute horlogerie creations of Kari Voutilainen represents an all-embracing mechanical and visual work of art that unites the East and West in perfect harmony.

The theme selected for this Voutilainen watch is Aki-No-Kure that means “the scene in late autumn” and there is a notion hidden behind the theme, “the circle of life”. Late autumn represents the wheel of life [regeneration] takes place for spring. UNRYUAN (Tatsuo Kitamura).

The stunning watch dial describes ears of Japanese pampas grass [miscanthus sinensis] are forming full ears in the autumn breeze. Also, it reminds of the fantastic effects to move in ripple or surging waves. It is depicted using the technique, TOGIDASHI-MAKIE [burnished MAKIE], TAKA-MAKIE [raised MAKIE] embossed gilt lacquer work in gold, and RADEN [mother-of-pearl inlay work] on the top of surface. The materials are black lacquer, gold powder, turban shell and abalone shell.

On the inside part of case back, a dragonfly and ripples on water nearby a field of pampas grass. The decorating techniques used here are SAIEI-MAKIE, TOGIDASHI-MAKIE, TAKA-MAKIE, ARADASHI-MAKIE [rough-finishing MAKIE], and RADEN. The materials are gold powder, gold leaf, turban shell (wing), abalone shell (ripple), black lacquer, vermilion-lacquer (body).In Japan the dragonfly is known as the victory insect (kachimushi) because of its hunting prowess and also it is known to never retreat.

Opening the case back, you can admire a meticulously decorated, in house movement. This manual winding movement crafted in German silver and titanium is decorated with utilizing the technique of SAIEI-MAKIE. The materials are gold leaf, abalone shell, black lacquer, “glass-particle”.

Outside part of the case back features a spider, which considered as auspicious, a good omen. This decoration incorporates an ancient technique of inlaying gold, KINZOUGAN (by a Japanese Metal & Tosogu artist, Koshiro Izumi). The web is carved on white gold and inlaid with different gold. The spider is made of a Japanese alloy of copper and inlaid with gold. The materials are gold, Shakudō.

Technical details
Model: Voutilainen 28 Aki-No-Kure

Movement
Unique, in house designed movement with hours and minutes
New direct impulse escapement with two escapement wheels
Dimensions: 30mm x 5.60mm with pure German silver main plate and bridges made from German silver and titanium with Art decoration made by the legendary Japanese lacquer studio Unryuan
Wheels in gold
Jewels: 21
Free sprung balance (wheel diameter 13.60mm) with Grossman interior curve and Philips exterior curve, beating at 18,000 vph

Dial
Unique art piece created by the legendary Japanese lacquer studio Unryuan
Hands: gold and steel, hand made
All manufacturing, construction, fabrication, hand finishing and assembly in the Voutilainen workshop

Case
Made from 18ct high palladium gold , diameter of the case is 39.00mm
Sapphire glass front and back, with anti reflection treatment

Buckle and strap
18K white gold tang buckle and alligator strap

Rarity
Limited to 1 unique example

Notes
MAKIE is lacquer work, the decoration technique, in which designs or patterns are drawn in lacquer (urushi), over which gold powder is sprinkled [scattered] while the lacquer is wet to secure the design on the surface.
RADEN is mother-of-pearl inlay work, the decoration technique in which designs or patterns are drawn in lacquer (urushi), gold powder, pieces of cut gold leaf, turban and abalone shell.
Shakudō is a billon of gold and copper (typically 4–10% gold, 96–90% copper) which can be treated to form an indigo/black
KINZOUGAN is a technique used to decorate sword (katana) fittings, particularly sword hand guard (tsuba).

Voutilainen Vingt-8 ISO

Unveiled at SIHH 2017, the Vingt-8 ISO wristwatch created by master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen boasts a completely innovative display of the time based on System 1 and System 2 human behaviour, as studied by Nobel Prize-winner Daniel Kahneman.

The time displaying pattern of the Vingt-8 ISO is briefly enumerated below:-
1. At the top of each hour, the minute hand overlaps the hour hand.
2. On every half hour, the minute and hours hands are opposite.
3. The circle of minutes turns at the same rate as the hour hand for easy reading.
4. The angle between the hour hand and the minute hand remains the same regardless of the time.
5. The position of the hour and minute hands, with respect to the other is always according to the minutes, whatever the hour is.

Daniel Kahneman, world renowned psychologist and Nobel Prize laureate in economics for Creating the field of Behavioral Economics, published Thinking, Fast and Slow. He describes two different ways to brain form thoughts – System 1 and System 2. Telling time by looking at a wrist watch is a result of a System 1 activity: a glance suffices because the « code » is so deep and familiar that in an instant you know the time without having to think twice. The Vingt-8 ISO counters this code; conforming to Kahneman’s System 2 behavior. You cannot read the time; you have to switch to System 2. It now creates a more intimate and reflective relationship with this watch – it takes a few seconds now to know the time; But you know the time better with the Vingt-8 ISO because your attention is keener.

The stylish 18k pink gold case measuring 39mm diameter houses an in-house mechanical hand-wound movement designed, built, fabricated, finished and assembled in Voutilainen workshop. The design and philosophy of the movement combines respect for longevity and precision with classical watchmaking tradition.

The movement has a very large scale manufactured in-house, allowing perfect regulation of the watch to within tolerances. To equip such an exceptional timepiece, a very rare and unique balance-spring system has been used. Phillips overcoil, while the internal curve uses the little known Grossmann curve.

This is the first watch to have two escapement wheels in such a configuration. The escapement wheels give a direct impulse to the balance through the impulse roller / jewel. This escapement is extremely efficient and requires much less energy than traditional lifting escapements, offering benefits in terms of longevity and stability in day-to-day use. The balance-wheel bridge is sublimely elegant, offering an unimpeded view of the escapement and balance. It also allows the enthusiast to admire the synchronized movements of the escapement wheels.

The watch features finishing of the highest standards. The surfaces of pinions and wheels are completely flat and highly polished to exceptionally uniform tolerances. All finishing work on the main plate and bridges is by hand to achieve the highest possible levels of surface finish. Screws and all steel parts are finished and polished by hand.

Technical details
Movement
Mechanical hand-wound, Vingt-8 calibre, designed, made and finished in the Voutilainen workshops, 33 jewels, 18,000 vib/h, new escapement with two escape wheels and direct impulse, Breguet/Grossmann balance-spring, plate and bridges in German silver, pink gold wheels, 65-hour power reserve

Functions
Hours, minutes

Case
18k pink gold, 39 mm. Anti-reflective sapphire crystal, front and back

Dial

Guilloché silver
Gold applied numerals and hands

Strap
Hand-stitched crocodile with 18k gold buckle

Voutilainen 28 Oukamon

World renowned Swiss watchmaker Kari Voutilainen offers Voutilainen 28 Oukamon created in association with Unryuan, one of the greatest lacquer studios of Japan.

One of the greatest lacquer studios of Japan, Unryuan, under the guidance of Mr. T. Kitamura, create works of lacquer art that stand at the pinnacle of Japanese tradition, bringing a craft that has existed for hundreds of years into the present, exemplifying the passion to preserve the soul, spirit and identity of traditional Japanese culture as expressed in the Edo period. This superlative work engages us immediately on a physical level and one can only stand in awe at the commitment, patience and dedication required to create these works of art.

The dial shown here, using the techniques of lacquering with Saiei Makie and Somata zaiku takes several months of work to complete. The raw materials for its creation are: Kinpun (gold dust), Jyunkin-itakane (gold leaf), Yakou-gai (shell of great green turban) and Awabi-gai (abalone shell from New Zealand). This symbiosis of Japanese tradition with the Swiss haute horlogerie creations of Kari Voutilainen represents an all-embracing mechanical and visual work of art that unites the East and West in perfect harmony.

Technical details

Model: Voutilainen 28 Oukamon
Limited to 1 unique example

Movement
Unique, in house designed movement with hours and minutes
New direct impulse escapement with two escapement wheels
Dimensions: 30mm x 5.60mm with pure German silver main plate and bridges
Wheels in rose gold
Jewels: 21
Free sprung balance (wheel diameter 13.60mm) with Grossman interior curve and Philips exterior curve, beating at 18,000 vph

Dial
Unique art piece created by the legendary Japanese lacquer studio Unryuan
Hands: gold and steel, hand made
All manufacturing, construction, fabrication, hand finishing and assembly in the Voutilainen workshop

Case and strap
37.00mm x 10.80mm
Sapphire glass front and back, with anti reflection treatment
In 18K white gold with matching tang buckle and alligator strap

Voutilainen GMR Limited Edition

In his new horology masterpiece, Switzerland based Master watch maker Kari Voutilainen incorporates a second time zone with 24-hour indicator and a retrograde power-reserve indicator. The mechanical movement of this complication watch is developed and hand-crafted from start to finish inside the master watchmaker’s workshops, in the peace and tranquillity of the Swiss village of Môtiers.

Fashioned from maillechort, this top-flight mechanical movement comprises no fewer than 250parts and 28 jewels. An ingenious mechanism allows the second time zone to be adjusted by the crown, jumping one hour at each push, rather than turning freely, thus maintaining absolute precision with local time.

The movement’s traditional finishes of Côtes de Genève and hand-chamfering can be admired through the sapphire crystal back, while the dial exudes refined elegance. The GMT indication at 6 o’clock embraces the small seconds, mirrored by the retrograde power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock. Produced in 12-piece limited series, the Voutilainen GMR is available in 18K white gold, 18K red gold or platinum versions.

Technical details

Movement
Hand-wound Voutilainen calibre in rhodium-plated maillechort, 250 parts, 28 jewels, Côtes de Genève and hand-chamfering finishes

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, 24-hour GMT, power-reserve indicator

Case
18K white gold, 18K red gold or platinum, 39 mm
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal, front and back

Dial
Solid silver, dark green
Roman numerals
Second time zone and small seconds at 6 o’clock
Retrograde power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock
Hand-guilloché in the Voutilainen workshops

Strap
Hand-stitched crocodile with Voutilainen buckle

VOUTILAINEN 28 HISUI

The 28 HISUI is a unique mechanical timepiece created by Switzerland based master watch maker Kari Voutilainen in association with Unryuan, a world renowned lacquer studio from Japan.

One of the greatest lacquer studios of Japan, Unryuan, under the guidance of Mr. T. Kitamura, create works of lacquer art that stand at the pinnacle of Japanese tradition, bringing a craft that has existed for hundreds of years into the present, exemplifying the passion to preserve the soul, spirit and identity of traditional Japanese culture as expressed in the Edo period.

This superlative work engages us immediately on a physical level and one can only stand in awe at the commitment, patience and dedication required to create these works of art. The work of Art shown here, using the techniques of lacquering which takes far more than thousand hours of work to complete the dial and bridges. The raw materials for its creation are: Kinpun (gold dust), Jyunkin-itakane (gold leaf), Yakou-gai (shell of great green turban) and Awabi-gai (abalone shell from New Zealand). This bespoke watch made especially to A L’Emeraude has been inspired from precious stones Emeralds and Jades, what the name Hisui signify.

This symbiosis of Japanese tradition with the Swiss haute horlogerie creations of Kari Voutilainen represents an all-embracing mechanical and visual work of art that unites the East and West in perfect harmony.

Technical details
Model: Voutilainen 28 Hisui
Unique, in house designed movement with hours and minutes
New direct impulse escapement with two escapement wheels
Movement: 30mm x 5.60mm with pure German silver main plate and bridges made from German silver and titanium with Art decoration made by the legendary Japanese lacquer studio Unryuan
Wheels in rose gold
Jewels: 21
Free sprung balance (wheel diameter 13.60mm) with Grossman interior curve and Philips exterior curve, beating at 18,000 vph
Dial: Unique art piece created by the legendary Japanese lacquer studio Unryuan
Hands: gold and steel, hand made
All manufacturing, construction, fabrication, hand finishing and assembly in the Voutilainen workshop
Case: 39.00mm
Sapphire glass front and back, with anti reflection treatment
In 18K white gold with matching tang buckle and alligator strap
Limited to 1 unique example

Voutilainen Tourbillon-6

This new Tourbillon watch with exclusive movement made in Voutilainen workshop presents classical watchmaking in his highest level with pure design and solid construction. Tourbillon cage is very large which is almost the half of the diameter of the movement and due to this hands has been obliged to off center to give the space for the impressive cage.

Movement has New Voutilainen double wheel direct impulse escapement. Tourbillon is visible on dial side. Movement is finished by hand in highest level possible, in Voutilainen workshop.

Technical details
Model: Voutilainen Tourbillon-6
Unique, in house designed movement with hours and minutes tourbillon cage situated at 6
New direct impulse escapement with two escapement wheels
Movement: 30.50mm x 6mm with pure German silver plated with special treatment in gray color.
Diameter of the cage is 14mm
Diameter of balance wheel is 11.50mm
Wheels in rose gold and steel.
Jewels: 32
Free sprung balance (with Grossman interior curve and Philips exterior curve, beating at 18,000 vph
Dial: made from pure silver and engine turned by hand. Gold hour indices.
Hands: gold and steel, hand made
All manufacturing, construction, fabrication, hand finishing and assembly in the Voutilainen workshop
Case: 39mm
Sapphire glass front and back, with anti reflection treatment
In 18K white gold with matching tang buckle and alligator strap
Limited series of 6 examples

Voutilainen 28 Sarasamon

This year, Swiss watch maker Kari Voutilainen unveils a unique timepiece in association with Unryuan lacquer studio of Japan. Sarasamon, the only one of its kind timepiece proudly carries the legacies of both ancient Japanese lacquer art and the traditional Swiss watch making.

One of the greatest lacquer studios of Japan, Unryuan, under the guidance of Mr. T. Kitamura, create works of lacquer art that stand at the pinnacle of Japanese tradition, bringing a craft that has existed for hundreds of years into the present, exemplifying the passion to preserve the soul, spirit and identity of traditional Japanese culture as expressed in the Edo period.

This superlative work engages us immediately on a physical level and one can only stand in awe at the commitment, patience and dedication required to create these works of art. The dial shown here, using the techniques of lacquering with Saiei Makie and Somata zaiku takes several months of work to complete. The raw materials for its creation are: Kinpun (gold dust), Jyunkin-itakane (gold leaf), Yakou-gai (shell of great green turban) and Awabi-gai (abalone shell from New Zealand).

For this particular Sarasamon design, gold channels are created first and then filled in with layers of a special organic compound made from an ancient recipe. Using diverse techniques, miniscule pieces of hand cut shell are placed in patterns with extreme attention to the changes of color and the directions in which each fragment catches and reflects the light.

Additional layers of lacquer in colors and gold are applied and polishing taking place at each intermediate step in the process. At the end of these laborious and time consuming procedures, a dial is created that continuously changes and moves, like a small living microcosmos of light and color.

This symbiosis of Japanese tradition with the Swiss haute horlogerie creations of Kari Voutilainen represents an all-embracing mechanical and visual work of art that unites the East and West in perfect harmony.

Technical details

Unique, in house designed movement with hours and minutes
New direct impulse escapement with two escapement wheels
Movement: 30mm x 5.60mm with pure German silver main plate and bridges
Wheels in rose gold
Jewels: 21
Free sprung balance (wheel diameter 13.60mm) with Grossman interior curve and Philips exterior curve, beating at 18,000 vph
Dial: Unique art piece created by the legendary Japanese lacquer studio Unryuan
Hands: gold and steel, hand made
All manufacturing, construction, fabrication, hand finishing and assembly in the Voutilainen workshop
Case: 37.00mm x 10.80mm
Sapphire glass front and back, with anti reflection treatment
In 18K yellow gold with matching tang buckle and alligator strap
Limited to 1 unique example

Voutilainen Vingt-8 : New Edition (2012)

Artisan d’Horlogerie d’Art Voutilainen, the Swiss luxury watch making house founded by independent watch maker Kari Voutilainen, presents a new edition of its Vingt-8 wristwatch in new case dimensions of 37mm and a special dial created with a guilloché chapter ring and center field of delicately colored mother of pearl.

The Vingt-8 wristwatch, presented at Baselworld 2011, was an exceptional expression of watchmaking philosophy according to the philosophy of Master watch maker Kari Voutilainen. That watch marked the first release of the new in-house movement that was designed, assembled and finished in its entirety at the Voutilainen atelier in Môtiers, Switzerland. The design and philosophy of this new in house movement combined a deep respect for tradition with novel design impulses. This is evident in such details as the new double wheel escapement designed with a view towards longevity and precision. It’s very large in-house manufactured balance wheel, beating at a classical 18,000 v.p.h., provides great stability whilst allowing perfect regulation of the watch within strict tolerances.

The new Vingt-Eight model launched in 2012, utilizes this same exceptional movement, this time in new case dimensions of 37mm and a special dial created with a guilloché chapter ring and center field of delicately colored mother of pearl. The whole is set off with hand made and applied indexes and numerals in gold, with the famous Voutilainen hands that represent a new interpretation of classical pomme hands for the 21st century.

For such an exceptional timepiece, a very rare and unique balance spring configuration has been used with two special curves. The exterior curve of the spring uses a typical Breguet overcoil, whilst the internal curve uses the little known Grossmann curve. This is combined with the use of two escapement wheels, instead of the centuries old use of a single wheel, as ones sees in standard Swiss anchor escapement design.

This new Voutilainen movement is the first watch to use such a configuration. The double escapement wheels give a direct impulse to the balance through the impulse roller and jewel. This means the escapement is extremely efficient, requiring much less energy than traditional lever escapements, as well as offering benefits in terms of longevity and stability in day-to-day use. The sublimely elegant balance-wheel bridge befits such a unique escapement, offering an unimpeded view of the mechanical wonders below.

The watch is finished to the highest standards. The surfaces of pinions and wheels are completely flat and highly polished to within exceptionally uniform tolerances. All finishing work on the main plate and bridges is created by hand to achieve the highest possible levels of surface finish. Even the smallest parts such as screws and other steel parts are finished and polished by hand. This also applies to parts of the watch that the owner will never be able to see.

Technical details
-Engine-turned guilloche chapter ring with gold applied indexes and numerals and gold hands. Central field in mother of pearl
– New in-house movement. Designed, constructed, finished and assembled in the Voutilainen atelier
– 30mm x 5.60mm movement
– New direct impulse escapement with two escapement wheels
– Main plate and bridges manufactured from German silver
– Wheels manufactured from rose gold
– Hand sewn crocodile strap.
– 21 jewels
– Circa 65-hours power reserve
– Free sprung balance wheel beating at 18,000 v.p.h.
– Rose gold timing weights
– Balance diameter 13.60mm with Breguet/Grossmann curves
– 37mm x 10.80mm thick 18-carat gold case and crown
– Sapphire glass front and back, with single layered anti reflection treatment

Voutilainen Vingt-8 Wristwatch

The Voutilainen Vingt-8 wristwatch perfectly encapsulates the philosophy of Kari Voutilainen. Its elegant and strong mechanism is housed in a stylish and robust case.

The in-house movement of the Vingt-8 was designed, built, fabricated, finished and assembled in its entirety in Voutilainen workshops. The design and philosophy of the movement combines respect for longevity and precision with classical watchmaking tradition. The movement has a very large balance wheel manufactured in-house, allowing perfect regulation of the watch to within strict tolerances.

To equip such an exceptional timepiece, a very rare and unique balance-spring system has been used. The exterior of the spring uses a typical Breguet overcoil, while the internal curve uses the little known Grossmann curve.

The escapement makes the movement very special; this is the first watch to have two escapement wheels in such a configuration. The escapement wheels give a direct impulse to the balance through the impulse roller/jewel. This escapement is extremely efficient and requires much less energy than traditional lever escapements, offering benefits in terms of longevity and stability in day-to-day use.

The balance-wheel bridge is sublimely elegant, offering an unimpeded view of the escapement and balance. It also allows the enthusiast to admire the synchronized movements of the escapement wheels. The watch is finished to the highest standards. The surfaces of pinions and wheels are completely flat and highly polished to within exceptionally uniform tolerances. All finishing work on the main plate and bridges is by hand to achieve the highest possible levels of surface finish. Screws and all steel parts are finished and polished by hand.

Technical details
-In-house movement. Design, construction, fabrication, finishing and assembly in Voutilainen workshops.
-30mm x 5.60mm movement
-New escapement, with two escapement wheels, direct impulse.
-Main plate and bridges manufactured from German silver.
-Wheels manufactured from rose gold.
-21 jewels
-50-hour power reserve
-Free sprung balance wheel with rose gold timing weights frequency of 18,000 v.p.h.
-Balance diameter 13.60mm with Breguet/Grossmann balance spiral
-39mm x 11.5mm thick 18-carat gold case and crown
-Sapphire glasses front and back, anti reflection treatment on front
-Engine-turned silver dial with gold applied numerals and gold hands
-Hand sewn crocodile strap with 18-carat gold buckle

Voutilainen OBSERVATOIRE Wristwatch

Timekeeping was once a domain dedicated to the pursuit of accuracy, and to this end, so-called ‘observatory watches’ were created. These watches possessed exceptional accuracy concerning all the important technical areas of movement functionality; however visual finishing was of secondary importance.

The surfaces of pinions and wheels were completely true and highly polished with exceptionally accurate tolerances; balance and winding springs were pre-tested and hand chosen, the dimensions of shafts, bearings and pivots perfectly realized. Watches such as these, created solely for accuracy and nothing else, are capable of a mean accuracy of only tenths of a second per day in test conditions, something virtually unheard of even in 21st century mechanical watch making.

Observatory watches were in general never offered for sale to the general public since they were destined solely for timing trials, a gesture of competitive spirit amongst watch companies jousting to prove their individual merit through the attainment of the greatest possible accuracy.

After the introduction of so-called ‘high-beat’ mechanical movements followed by the perfection of electronic, quartz based timekeeping during the1970’s, the culture of official observatory testing declined and slowly died out. This was replaced by a method of electronic batch testing uncased movements en masse as a method of quality control for large production numbers. With ever-larger amounts of movements being offered for testing each year, an institution called COSC was created to handle the chronometric measurement of movements in large quantities.

The resurrection of the Observatory Timekeeper
As chance would have it, Kari Voutilainen stroke of luck and found several Peseux caliber observatory movements that had never been finished since their initial production. After closely examining them, he made the decisions to a very limited series of wristwatches using these remarkable calibers. Each movement has been taken completely apart, technically adjusted and tested before being hand finished with anglage and perlage to bring it to the highest levels of visual and technical perfection possible. After this work is completed, each watch is foreseen with a finely turned dial, casework and hands in the distinctive style of the Voutilainen workshop.

Grossmann internal curvature of the balance spring
Benefiting such exceptional and historic calibers, Kari Voutilainen decided to use a very rare and unique system of balance spring curvature in their final production. In this special system the exterior trajectory of the spring uses a hand set Breguet over coil as found in the finest watches, whilst the equally important internal curve uses the little known Grossmann curve. Grossmann codified a technique that gives the same amount of attention to the internal curvature of the balance as to the external over coil. Virtually unknown and fallen into disuse, the OBSERVATOIRE wristwatch marks the first use of the Grossmann curve in the 21st century, underlining the fact that many of the present day.

Besancon Observatory restarts chronometer certification in 2007
With this exceptional quality and historical background in mind, it came about that a chance meeting, between clients of Kari Voutilainen’s and Mr. Francoise Meyer of the Besancon Observatory, in April 2007, led to a request if the watch created for him could be submitted for chronometric testing by the observatory. After considering the special character of the watch and what it shares with the history of the observatory, a perfect moment was revealed to initiate the rebirth of chronometric certification at the Besancon observatory, which since the end of the 11970’s had concentrated mainly on scientific activities. Kari Voutilainen’s watch was the very first to be certified in this manner since the observatory ceased their regular issuing of chronometer certificates.

It is perhaps interesting to note that the Besancon certificate differs from COSC testing in that the entire watch assembly, including the case, is tested, not just the movement alone. This means that the complete watch in its final form as sold is certified to be a true chronometer. With COSC, although the movement might pass testing, the rest of the watch still needs to be assembled, cased and complication modules added, so there is no official guarantee(beyond perhaps that of the brand) that the finished watch maintains the identical precision it had upon leaving testing.

Grand Prix de Geneve 2007
All this horological activity was quit amazing for the Voutilainen workshop in 2007; yet there was to be a surprise in the store. Out of a pre-selection of 9 watches submitted by major and minor brands for the men’s watches category of the Grand Prix de Geneve, the Kari Voutilainen OBSERVATOIRE wristwatch was chosen as the ultimate laureate. It represents an extraordinary recognition of Kari Voutilainen’s independent workshop as well as his distinctive yet classic visual designs combined with a superlative attention to mechanical details. This prestigious achievement, voted upon by top Swiss watch industry insiders, is a public acknowledgement of horological mastery and a commitment to the creation of exceptional timekeepers.

Technical details

  • Observatory caliber peseux created solely for observatory trails and never commercialized for production. Hand finished with Geneva stripes, anglage and perlage.
  • 30mm x 5mm movement.
  • Ruby cap jewels for the escapement wheel.
  • 19 jewels.
  • Free sprung balance wheel with timing screws beating at 18,000 v.p-h.
  • Balance diameter 13.3mm with Breguet / Grossman balance spiral.
  • 38mm x 10.5mm thick 18-carat gold case and crown.
  • Engine turned gold dial, with gold applied numerals and gold hands.
  • Hand sewn, crocodile strap with 18-carat gold buckle.
  • Hand made wood presentation box with drawer, instructions and certificates

Voutilainen Decimal Minute Repeater 9 Tantalor

Building further on the mechanical concepts already presented in other watches from the Decimal Repeater collection, the caliber of the “Tantalor” 9 centers on a LeCoultre ebauche, which has been rebuilt to a decimal repeater mechanism striking hours, 10 minute intervals and minutes. The beauty of this system is that the minute chime never strikes more than 9 times, making the repeater easy to understand and more natural in actual use.

The new Decimal Repeater number 9 Tantalor retains the clear and easily readable second’s placement at 6 o clock of the previous Decimal repeater. The movement, case dial have been executed without the slightest compromise, as can be expected from all wristwatches created by the Voutilainen atelier. The hand made, engine turned dial of 18 carat gold has anthracite finished soleil and clous de Paris guilloche, with Luminova filled Arabic numerals.

The unusual, difficult to manufacture Tantalum case with 18 carat white gold details is created with an exceptional level of finish. This dial and case combination id not only beautiful, but practical as well in regards to night-time legibility and wear resistance; this is a minute repeater that is meant to be use and enjoyed every day.

According to the finest Swiss watch making traditions, the bridges, spring, hammers and other parts of the movement has received hand-finished anglage; the surfaces of the bridges are adorned with Geneva stripes and the base plate with circular and snail graining.The masterpiece 9 Tantalor is the latest example of how a client’s desire for an exceptional and personalized timepiece can be realized by the Voutilainen atelier.

Technical details

  • Decimal minute repeater movement, LeCoultre ebauche beating at 18,000 v.p.h. showing hours, minutes and small seconds. Strikes the hours and 10 minute intervals followed by minutes, with two hammers acting on two gongs.
  • Free sprung variable inertia balance wheel, diameter 13.5mm with 18 carat gold adjustment screws and Breguet-Phillips hairspring.
  • 45mm x 11mm thick Tantalum case with 18 carat white gold crown, slide, bezels and buckle
  • Ruby endstones for the escapement wheel.
  • 29 jewels
  • Hand made, 18 carat rhodium plated gold hands
  • 34 hours of power reserve
  • 18 carat gold, engine turned dial, finished in anthracite finished soleil and clou de Paris guilloche with crème colored, Luminova filled Arabic numerals.
  • Sapphire glass front and back with anti-reflective coating on front.

Voutilainen Masterpiece 7 Decimal Minute Repeater

Building further on the mechanical concepts already presented in the ‘Decimal Minute Repeater’ caliber, which strikes hours, 10 minute intervals and minutes, this new creation presents additional concepts built to the requests of a private client.

The new Masterpiece retains the clear and easily readable seconds placement at 6 o’clock of the previous Masterpiece, now however a 24-hour indicator for a second time zone has been added at 12 o’clock. The day and night dials of this indicator are engraved with stylized sun and moon figures in 18 carat yellow and white gold. The mechanism is actuated simply via the crown; by pushing it in a short, clearly tangible distance, the second time zone advances forward one hour.
The movement, case and dial have been executed without the slightest compromise, as can be expected from the Voutilainen atelier. The hand made, engine turned dial of 18-carat rose gold has two contrasting fields and the case is entirely manufactured by hand using 18 th century methods. This provides beautiful visual results and is also one of the keys to insuring the full sonority of the 2 gongs.

According to the finest Swiss watchmaking traditions, the bridges, spring, hammers and many other parts have received hand-finished anglage; the surfaces of the bridges are adorned with Geneva stripes and the baseplate with circular and snail graining.

At the client’s request, the back of the watch has been hand engraved by master engraver Eddy Jaquet, with a design based on the theme of the ‘Seven Sisters’ from the myth of the Pleiades.

The Masterpiece 7 is the latest example of how a client’s desire for an exceptional and personalized timepiece can be realized by the Voutilainen atelier.

Technical details
Movement
Decimal minute repeater movement, striking hour, 10 minute and minute intervals via two hammers acting on two gongs.
Stainless steel, variable inertia balance wheel with 18-carat gold internal weights and adjustment screws and Breguet-Phillips hairspring.
Ruby endstones for the escapement wheel.
33 jewels.
39 hours of power reserve.

Case, dial and strap
39.50mm diameter 18-carat white gold case with teardrop lugs, hinged case back, hand made 18-carat white gold buckle.
Hand made, 18-carat white gold crown
18-carat gold, engine turned dial, finished in white eggshell with applied numerals.
Hand made, 18-carat rose gold hands
Hand sewn, blue crocodile strap.
Case back engraved with theme from the ‘7 Daughters of Atlas’ inside of the cover is engraved ‘Voutilainen’.
Second time zone at 12 o’clock with 18-carat yellow and white gold, engraved, sun and moon dials; seconds at 6 o’clock.
Sapphire glass front and back.