Greubel Forsey GMT Sport “Sincere Fine Watches Special Edition”

Independent Swiss luxury watch manufacture Greubel Forsey has released a special edition GMT Sport watch for Sincere Fine Watches.

Sincere Fine Watches is Greubel Forsey’s long-standing partner in Singapore. This limited edition timepiece highlights the vivid orange color. It’s a rare colour in the brand’s standard palette.

Greubel Forsey GMT Sport “Sincere Fine Watches Special Edition”

Greubel Forsey has woven the orange colour into its entire composition: on the internal bezel, the tips of the hours and minute hands, the crown, the engraving on the pushers, the hour markers, power reserve, and 2nd time zone GMT indication. A bright shade of orange adorns the oceans and seas of the Earth, positioned at 7 o’clock.

Greubel Forsey GMT Sport “Sincere Fine Watches Special Edition”

Straps are presented in three options. The first in textured orange rubber with the Greubel Forsey core values engraved on the back; the second in a brand-new ultra-light titanium integrated bracelet decorated with polished, matte, and frosted finishes exuding a dressier, more sophisticated look; and finally a traditional black strap.

Greubel Forsey GMT Sport “Sincere Fine Watches Special Edition”

The movement of the Greubel Forsey GMT Sport “Sincere Fine Watches Special Edition” provides a setting for two of the Atelier’s emblematic complications. The first, between 12 o’clock and 2 o’clock, is the Tourbillon 24 Secondes. In this, Greubel Forsey’s third Fundamental Invention, the cage is inclined at a 25° angle and completes a full rotation every 24 seconds, two features that give it better timekeeping performance than most traditional tourbillons – as well as providing a truly unique visual effect.

Secondly, there is the globe of the Earth, placed between 7 o’clock and 9 o’clock, embodying the three-dimensional time display championed by Greubel Forsey. This patented invention performs a complete rotation in 24 hours, allowing universal time to be read off easily and intuitively. Seen as if from above the North Pole, a ring with 24-hour markings allows local time to be read for all longitudes, whilst also acting as a day/night indication.

Greubel Forsey GMT Sport “Sincere Fine Watches Special Edition”

On the caseback side, a disc displaying city names surrounded by 2 rings allows the wearer to read Universal (UTC) and Summer Time for 24 cities in 24 major time zones. For this special edition, the Singapore name has been made bright red. This disc also distinguishes the time zones applying summer time (on a light backdrop) from those that do not (on a dark backdrop).

Greubel Forsey GMT Sport “Sincere Fine Watches Special Edition”

The new case profile has a horizontal satin finish, giving the dial a more expansive feel. The edges of the bezel are polished and replete with gentle curves and highlights. The new finish highlights the very distinctive profile of the GMT Sport’s bezel: an elliptical shape that is slightly curved at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock to fit the curves of the wrist.

The GMT Sport’s new bracelet is the first metal bracelet ever made by Greubel Forsey. Designed completely in-house, and specifically for this model, the titanium bracelet is integrated into the case of the GMT Sport and profiled in such a way that it seamlessly extends the oval profile of the case and bezel. It is also equipped with a wrist quickfit system that provides the few millimetres’ difference needed to choose between a casual, loose fit, or a snug, tighter fit on the wrist.

Greubel Forsey GMT Sport “Sincere Fine Watches Special Edition”

On the dial side, the suspended arch bridge in the centre and the tourbillon bridge are open-worked, making the three-dimensional time display more readable and showcasing the bright orange tone.

Featuring a caseband diameter of 42mm (45mm with the bezel), this expression of the GMT movement’s technicality naturally matches the intuitive way in which it is read, with central hours and minutes, second time band at 10 o’clock, power reserve at 3 o’clock, and globe at 8 o’clock.

This special edition is strictly limited to 5 pieces, with exclusive designs reserved for Sincere Group across Singapore, Malaysia and Thailand.

Technical details

Model: Greubel Forsey GMT Sport Sincere Fine Watches Special Edition
In titanium, black movement

Edition
Limited edition of 5 pieces

Movement
Hand-wound movement with 3 patents • Patents pending
Number of movement parts: 435
Number of jewels: 63 Olived-domed jewels in gold chatons
Power reserve: 72 hours
Frequency: 21’600 vibrations per hour
Tourbillon inclined at a 25° angle; 1 rotation in 24 seconds

Functions
GMT • 2nd time zone • rotating orange globe with universal time and day-and-night • universal time on 24 time zones • summer and wintertime • cities observing summer time • GMT and Earth pushers • Tourbillon 24 Secondes • hours and minutes • small seconds • power-reserve

Case
Titanium with curved synthetic sapphire crystal
Three-dimensional, variable geometry-shaped bezel, hand-polished with hand-finished straight graining
Diameter: 42,00mm (caseband) and 45,00mm (bezel)
Case height: 15.70mm (17.80mm with synthetic sapphire crystals)
Water-resistance: 10atm – 100m – 328ft

Dial
Three-dimensional, variable geometry hour-ring
GMT indicator, power-reserve indicator and Tourbillon rotation indicator
Rotating globe with fixed day-and-night UTC indicator

Strap
Orange rubber with text in relief, titanium folding clasp, engraved GF logo
3-row metal bracelet in titanium, folding clasp with integrated fine adjustment, engraved GF logo
Traditional black strap

Greubel Forsey GMT Earth Titanium Final Edition

Greubel Forsey During Geneva Watch Days 2021, Greubel Forsey launched the third and final interpretation of its GMT Earth. Made of titanium, this intense black version is a limited edition of 11 pieces.

The GMT Earth by Greubel Forsey is an extraordinary wristwatch that, for the first time, makes it possible to appreciate the entirety of the world in a single glance.

This technical feat first appeared in 2011. At the time of the first “GMT”, the Earth was not yet fully revealed. Seven years later, the design of the Earth was finally complete: visible from all angles in its new sapphire alcove, it appears as though it is floating in space. On the front as well as the back, the laser-engraved Earth shows world times that are both quick and easy to read.

The first version of the GMT Earth was in white gold. The second was in platinum. Now, this timepiece is available with a new titanium case. The GMT Earth in titanium will be available in a limited edition of 11 pieces, three times less than the original version. Weighing just 117g, the weight of the strap has been reduced by two-thirds. The case has lost just over a third of its weight.

Greubel Forsey GMT Earth Titanium (Final Edition)

Titanium is used not only for the entire case, but also the bridges, the GMT push-piece, the crown and the folding buckle, the latter two being the components most exposed to shocks and scratches.

To accompany the light and matt tones of titanium, Greubel Forsey opted for a black finish on the dial. It is applied to the spotted bottom plate and to all the frosted bridges, with straight flanks, polished bevelling and countersinks. This finish is also featured on an all-black natural rubber strap, whose inner face is engraved with the cardinal values of the Greubel Forsey Atelier and which are visible on the bezel.

Greubel Forsey GMT Earth Titanium (Final Edition)

The GMT Earth displays four key pieces of information on its dial side. The first is the off-centre hours, minutes and seconds display. The first two feature large open-worked hands finished with a Super-LumiNova tip, complemented by a small seconds hand on a sapphire disc at three o’clock.

Greubel Forsey GMT Earth Titanium Final Edition

On the left is the GMT indicator, whose red hand effortlessly stands out against a hand-engraved black gold disc filled with lacquer. The third, located opposite the crown, is the power reserve, designed following the same process: a black, engraved gold segment, filled with lacquer and covered by a silver-polished steel hand.

Greubel Forsey GMT Earth Titanium Final Edition

Finally between 7 o’clock and 9 o’clock, the Earth occupies the largest space, completing a full rotation in 24 hours. The engraved sapphire ring around the equator acts as a day / night indication and allows you to instantly see which hemisphere is in the daytime and which is at night.

Greubel Forsey GMT Earth Titanium (Final Edition)

Located on the side of the caseband, a final window opens to show the equator. Thanks to this, the Earth really can be seen from all angles.

Finally, on the caseback side, the worldtime display indicator completes the design. 24 time zones indicate the UTC of 24 major cities – with those that observe daylight savings on a white background.

Greubel Forsey GMT Earth Titanium Final Edition

The GMT Earth boasts Greubel Forsey’s third invention Tourbillon 24 Secondes, which uses a fast rotation speed and is set at an angle to resolve the positioning problem in relation to gravity and which is crucial for the operation of the oscillator. The 25° angle and the rapid rotation of the tourbillon cage significantly improve the chronometric performance of a system containing only one tourbillon, especially those in fixed positions.

Technical details

Model: Greubel Forsey GMT Earth Titanium Final Edition

Edition
Limited edition of 11 pieces in titanium

Special features
GMT • 2nd time zone • rotating globe with universal time and day-and-night • complete and global view from northern to southern hemisphere • universal time on 24 time zones • summer and winter time • cities observing summer time • lateral window showing the equator • GMT pusher • Tourbillon 24 Secondes • hours and minutes • small seconds • power-reserve indicator

Movement

Hand-wound movement with 3 patents

Movement dimensions
• Diameter: 36.40mm
• Thickness: 11.55mm

Number of parts
• Movement: 453 parts
• Tourbillon cage: 86 parts
• Weight of the cage: 0.39g

Number of jewels
• 60
• Olived-domed jewels in gold chatons

Chronometric power reserve
• 72 hours

Barrels
• Two coaxial series-coupled fast-rotating barrels (1 turn in 3.2 hours), one of which is equipped with a slipping spring to avoid excess tension

Balance wheel
• Variable-inertia with gold mean-time screws (10mm diameter)

Frequency
• 21’600 vibrations/hour

Balance spring
• Phillips terminal curve
• Geneva-style stud

Main plate
• Nickel silver, frosted and spotted with polished bevelling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks, black treatment

Bridges
• Nickel silver, frosted with polished bevelling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks, black treatment
• Flat black polished steel tourbillon bridge, hand-polished bevelling and countersinks
• Flat black polished steel screws, blued by heat treatment

Tourbillon
• Inclined at a 25° angle, 24-seconds rotation
• Light alloy cage pillars
• Titanium cage bridges
• Gold counterweight

Gearing
• Involute circle profile
• Tangential inclined gear on fixed wheel and profiled teeth on escape wheel pinion

Displays

Hours and minutes
Small seconds
72-hours power reserve on a sector
2nd time zone GMT
24 time zones universal time
Rotating titanium globe with universal time
Complete view from North Pole to South Pole
Summer time
Day-and-night

Exterior

Case
In titanium, with titanium plates, engraved, hand-finished with text, screwed to the caseband
Lateral window with shaped synthetic sapphire crystal
Three-dimensional, variable geometry-shaped lugs
Three-dimensional synthetic sapphire crystal caseback, with integrated dome
Three-dimensional, asymmetrical, synthetic sapphire crystal bezel
Raised polished engraving “GMT Earth” and “Greubel Forsey” on a hand-punched background
Gold security screws
Titanium GMT pusher with raised engraving on a hand-punched background
Engraved individual number
Water-resistance: 3atm – 30m – 100ft (standard NIHS 92-20/SN ISO 22810:2010)

Case dimensions
Diameter: 45.50mm
Height: case 16.18mm
Height on synthetic sapphire dome: 18.00mm

Crown
In titanium, synthetic sapphire insert with GF logo

Dial Side
Multi-level hour-ring in synthetic sapphire, galvanic growth hour indexes, engraved and lacquered minutes and small seconds
Power-reserve and GMT indicators in gold, engraved and lacquered, circular-grained, black treatment
Rotating globe with day-and-night UTC indicator in synthetic sapphire, engraved and lacquered

Movement Side
Synthetic sapphire disc displaying city names surrounded by 2 gold rings (UTC and summer time) engraved and lacquered
Gold “summer time” plate with individual number, raised engraving
South Pole of the globe with UTC indicator, engraved and lacquered, hand matt lapped

Hands
Hours, minutes, small seconds and power-reserve in polished steel, hand-polished countersinks
2nd time zone GMT indicator, red triangle

Strap and clasp
Rubber or hand-sewn alligator
Titanium folding clasp, engraved with the GF logo

Czapek & Cie Place Vendôme Tourbillon “Dark Matter” Limited Edition

Inspired by the Place Vendôme ‘Ombres’ in titanium, the new Czapek & Cie Place Vendôme Tourbillon ‘Dark Matter’ watch features a black titanium case with ADLC coating and dark bridges with PVD treatment.

Czapek & Cie Czapek Place Vendôme Tourbillon "Dark Matters" Limited Edition

Among the three families of Czapek & Cie watches, the Place Vendôme is the most refined and complex. Launched in 2017 with two models in limited edition in platinum and red gold, the collection boasts a proprietary caliber with a ‘suspended’ tourbillon, a GMT function and the indication of day and night in the second time zone, as well as of the power reserve.

Czapek & Cie Czapek Place Vendôme Tourbillon "Dark Matters" Limited Edition

At Baselword 2019, Czapek presented two new entries in the collection: a sumptuous version in platinum with a baguette-cut diamonds setting, ‘Etincelles’, and a sporty model in titanium with a black enamel ring, ‘Ombres’.

Czapek & Cie Czapek Place Vendôme Tourbillon "Dark Matters" Limited Edition

During the Geneva Watch Days 2020 luxury watch exhibition, the Geneva based brand unveiled the ‘Dark Matter’ edition. This new timepiece is not only inspired by the Ombres tourbillon in titanium, but takes elements from other watches in the Czapek portfolio.

Czapek & Cie Czapek Place Vendôme Tourbillon "Dark Matters" Limited Edition

The 43.5mm case, in 5- grade titanium, features a black ADLC coating as the Faubourg de Cracovie ‘Courage every second’ chronograph – the unique piece donated by Czapek to the Only Watch charity event and auctioned off by Christies for 110’000 CHF on November 9th 2019.

Czapek & Cie Czapek Place Vendôme Tourbillon "Dark Matters" Limited Edition

The fine-looking black bridges of the Dark Matter have been treated with PVD coating, ensuring the conservation of the colour over time, by the same company that crafts the blued gold Fleur-de-Lys hands in the Quai des Bergues collection.

Manufactured in a limited edition of 10 pieces, the timepiece will be only available at the brand’s official retailers and on czapek.com.

Technical details

Model: Place Vendôme Dark Matter

Case
Titanium grade 5 case with ADLC coating
43.5 mm diameter
Curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Sapphire crystal case back with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Water-resistance: 50 meters (5 atm)

Movement
Calibre SXH2: Haute Horlogerie proprietary mechanical hand-wound movement developed by Chronode and Czapek & Cie
Power reserve: 60 hours with one barrel spring
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 VpH)
Diameter: 34.8 mm – 15 ½ lines
Height: 9.8 mm

Finish
Front: anthracite sand-blasted plate, steel bridges treated with PVD coating, blue screw on tourbillon
Case back: open ratchet with circular bevelling, bridges treated with PVD coating, final “anglage” main

Functions
Hours and minutes on separate dial located at 12 o’clock
One-minute tourbillon located at 8 o’clock
Second time zone on subdial at 4 o’clock, turns counter-clockwise
Disk day/night indicator located at 6, turns counter-clockwise
Power reserve: off centred disk, located at 12, turn on 90° on 60h, winding counter clockwise

Dial
Black enamel dial, polished bridges and sandblasted plate
12 in Arabic numerals
Arrow hands in white gold with superluminova

Bracelet
Alligator strap with Titanium buckle

International Retail Price
90’000 CHF

Greubel Forsey GMT Quadruple Tourbillon

Huygen’s invention of the hairspring in 1675 was a milestone in the watchmakers’ long-running quest for precision. It did not however eliminate the issue of gravity, which is detrimental to the timing of watches, particularly in vertical positions.

To seek to remedy this, Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) conceived the idea of housing the regulating organ (hairspring, balance wheel and escapement) within a rotating cage. By turning around its axis, generally in one minute, the cage carried the ‘heart’ of the watch through different successive positions, thereby averaging out timing variations. The tourbillon was born (1801).

Striving to improve chronometry still further, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey reimagined the tourbillon principle and then developed their first three Fundamental Inventions: the Double Tourbillon 30° (2004), the Quadruple Tourbillon (2005) and the Tourbillon 24 Secondes (2006).

In their GMT Quadruple Tourbillon, the two watchmakers have chosen to revisit their second invention and to take it even further by combining it with a multiple time-zone display.

Greubel Forsey GMT Quadruple Tourbillon watch

Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have shown creative daring and boldness in uniting their second Fundamental Invention, the Quadruple Tourbillon, with their ground breaking interpretation of the GMT with its outsized rotating globe. Displaying three time zones along with a universal time function, this exceptional timepiece is distinguished by its three-dimensional architecture created with extreme attention to fine craftsmanship.

Working on the principle that the more different positions the regulating organ moves through, the more precise the timekeeping will be, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey invented the Quadruple Tourbillon with a spherical differential.

Right from the original idea the concept was clear. While coupling four separate tourbillons would have been challenging, they sought a more compact solution. To save space in all three dimensions, they chose to construct the tourbillons in pairs within a unique system of compact cages, an extremely challenging feat. Each of these two systems is modelled on the Double Tourbillon 30°, with a first cage rotating in one minute and angled at 30°, fitted inside a second upright cage performing a full rotation in four minutes.

The combination of the inclination of the inner cage and the different rotational speeds of the two cages focuses on cancelling out the timing variations due to the earth’s gravitational attraction in all the usual positions a wristwatch can adopt, particularly in stable positions. The spherical differential serves to average the timing of the two autonomous oscillators and thus improve chronometric performance, a system for which two patents have been fled.

Having mastered the tourbillon, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have continued to investigate and reinterpret other horological mechanisms, notably a practical and much appreciated complication: simultaneous multiple time zones display. In 2011, the two Inventor Watchmakers expressed their own vision of this modern day function in the ground breaking timepiece aptly named the GMT, more recently joined by the GMT Earth.

In this patented system, the second time zone indication on a separate subdial is paired with a universal time display providing an intuitive reading of the time around the world thanks to a world first: an outsized globe completing one full rotation every 24 hours, following planet Earth itself.

Greubel Forsey GMT Quadruple Tourbillon

In bringing the Quadruple Tourbillon and the GMT mechanisms together, Greubel Forsey not only accomplished a major technical feat that led to the creation of a new hand-wound calibre comprising 705 parts, including three fast-rotating barrels. The Inventor Watchmakers also tackled this challenge from an architectural angle to create a timepiece in which the three-dimensional approach is expressed on many levels.

The main hours/minutes dial between 1 and 2 o’clock forms the highest point of the dial, where it is underlined by the subtle asymmetry of the case and complemented by a 72-hour chronometric power-reserve display. The next level is it at 4 o’clock, with the coaxial small seconds and second time zone display which is adjustable in one-hour increments by means of a pusher.

Located between 8 and 9 o’clock, observers can admire the spectacular sight of the Earth in motion, surrounded by a fixed 24 hours ring around the Equator and displaying local time for all the longitudes – simultaneously taking account of the day/night indicator (on respectively light/dark zones).

A lateral window in the asymmetrical section of the case provides an unprecedented view of the Equator and the Southern hemisphere. The four tourbillons gravitate in two pairs on either side of the blue planet, each featuring an open and transparent construction, secured by flat black polished bridges and adorned with gold chatons as well as hand-polished beveling and countersinks.

Greubel Forsey GMT Quadruple Tourbillon watch movement

Universal time is visible through the case back, with a fixed 24-hour scale bearing day/night zones and a disk with three-letter abbreviations of 24 cities representing the various time zones. This disk also distinguishes between the time zones that implement Summer Time (Daylight Saving Time) appearing in a light colour; and those that do not (shown on a dark backdrop).

The case back also provides a chance to admire the Quadruple Tourbillon as well as frosted bridges with jewels set in gold chatons. The two complex asymmetrical convex sapphire crystals protecting the dial and case back also called for the utmost expertise.

Greubel Forsey GMT Quadruple Tourbillon watch

The Greubel Forsey GMT Quadruple Tourbillon watch comes in a unique edition of 66 pieces. The first edition of 11 of which are in white gold, numbered from 01/11 to 11/11 on a plate in the centre of the dial.

Technical details

Model: Greubel Forsey GMT Quadruple Tourbillon
Unique edition of 66 pieces
11 pieces in white gold

Movement
Hand-wound movement with 3 patents
GMT • 2nd time zone • rotating globe with universal time and day-and-night • universal time on 24 time zones • cities observing summer time • lateral window showing the equator and southern hemisphere • GMT pusher • Quadruple Tourbillon • hours and minutes • small seconds • power-reserve
Diameter: 39.50 mm
Thickness: 13.00 mm
Number of parts
• Movement: 705 parts
• Four tourbillon cages: 260 parts
• Total weight of the cages: 2.25 g
• Spherical differential: 28 parts
Number of jewels: 84; Olived-domed jewels in gold chatons
Chronometric power reserve: 72 hours
Barrels: Three series-coupled fast-rotating barrels (1 turn in 3.2 hours), one of which is equipped with a slipping spring to avoid excess tension
Balance wheel: Variable-inertia with white gold mean-time screws (10.70 mm diameter)
Frequency: 21’600 vibrations/hour
Balance spring: Phillips terminal curve; Geneva-style stud
Main plate: Nickel silver, frosted and spotted with polished bevelling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks, nickel-palladium treatment
Bridges: Nickel silver, frosted and spotted, polished bevelling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks, nickel-palladium treatment; Gold plate engraved with the individual number; Flat black polished gold plates with relief engraved text, polished bevelling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks; Four flat black polished steel tourbillon bridges, hand-polished bevelling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks

Inner tourbillons
• Inclined at a 30° angle, 1 rotation per minute
Outer tourbillons
• 1 rotation in 4 minutes
• Hand-bevelled and open-worked cage pillars
• 1 gold counterweight per double cage bearing the individual number
Gearing
• Involute circle profile
• Conical gearing with profiled teeth

Displays
Hours and minutes
Small seconds (mean performance)
72-hours power reserve on a sector
2nd time zone GMT
24 time zones universal time
Rotating titanium globe with universal time
Cities observing summer time
Day-and-night

Case
In white gold with asymmetrical convex synthetic sapphire crystal
Diameter: 46.50 mm
Height: 17.45 mm
Transparent back with asymmetrical convex synthetic sapphire crystal
Lateral window with shaped synthetic sapphire crystal
Three-dimensional, variable geometry-shaped lugs
Raised polished engraving “GMT Quadruple” and “Greubel Forsey” on a hand-punched background
Gold security screws
Polished bezel, caseband with hand-finished straight graining
White gold GMT pusher with raised engraving on a hand punched background
Hand-engraved individual number
Water-resistance: 3 atm – 30 m – 100 ft (standard NIHS 92-20/SN ISO 22810:2010)
Crown: In white gold with engraved and black lacquered GF logo

Dial
Multi-level in gold, anthracite colour
Gold hour-ring, circular-grained with polished bevelling, black treatment
Gold hour markers
Power-reserve and GMT in gold, hand matt lapped
Small second, circular-grained

Hands
Hours and minutes in polished gold, with Super-LumiNova
Small seconds in polished steel, black treatment
Power-reserve in polished steel, hand-polished countersink
2nd time zone GMT indicator, red

Strap
Hand-sewn alligator
White gold folding clasp, hand-engraved with the GF logo

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT

Unveiled at SIHH 2018, this new generation of Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT includes a flying tourbillon for the first time and offers new movement and dial animations. Featuring a flying tourbillon at 9 o’clock, this movement features the same power reserve and frequency as the previous Royal Oak Concept GMT model (237h of power reserve, 3Hz frequency).

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT

Central bridges, formerly made of ceramic, have been replaced with sandblasted black titanium bridges highlighted by pink gold-toned polished angles.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT

The HNR selection indicator, previously represented by a hand, has been replaced with a disc for better integration into the new movement aesthetics.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT

The watch comes dressed in a 44 mm sand-blasted titanium case with black ceramic bezel. Finally, the dial is made of sandblasted titanium and applied pink gold-toned inserts for a new, more faceted architecture. The mechanical hand wound movement is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT

Technical details

Model: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT
Reference: 26589IO.OO.D002CA.01

Movement
Hand-wound Manufacture Calibre 2954
Total diameter 35.60mm (15 ¾ lignes)
Total thickness 9.90mm
Number of jewels 24
Number of parts 348
Minimal guaranteed power reserve 237h
Frequency of balance wheel 3Hz (=21,600 vibrations/hour)

Functions
Flying tourbillon, GMT 24h, hours, minutes

Case
Sandblasted titanium case, 44mm, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, black ceramic bezel, screw-locked crown and push-pieces, sandblasted titanium push-piece guards, water-resistant to 100m

Dial
Second time-zone indicator at 3 o’clock on sapphire plate, crown position indicator at 6 o’clock, flying tourbillon at 9 o’clock, white gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, black inner bezel

Bracelet
Black rubber strap with sandblasted titanium AP folding clasp. Additional black alligator strap

RJ-Romain Jerome Moon Orbiter GMT Limited Edition

Swiss luxury watch brand RJ-Romain Jerome unveils its new flying tourbillon, the Moon Orbiter GMT: the epitome of contemporary fine watchmaking. This futuristic, architectural and technical timepiece retains much of its predecessor’s DNA to unfold a whole new version.

RJ-Romain Jerome has once again teamed up with La Joux-Perret to produce the Moon Orbiter GMT. Taking some aspects of the original model, the new timepiece is home to an automatic flying tourbillon caliber, a made-to-measure movement which has been entirely redesigned.

Unprecedented for the brand, the Moon Orbiter GMT sports an additional complication at 12 o’clock, developed exclusively for this model: a fully-integrated, jumping hour retrograde GMT feature.

RJ-Romain Jerome Moon Orbiter GMT Limited Edition watch

The new time zone is accompanied by a day/night function, which is indicated by a fully-functional disc engraved with the sun and stars. The complication is regulated by means of a dedicated pusher at 2 o’clock on the case, acting as the timepiece’s claws as the continuity of RJ-Romain Jerome famous X symbol.

Set atop a ceramic ball bearing, this distinctive X shape is also to be found on the rear side of the case, on the oscillating weight, balanced by inertia-blocks made from Moon SilverRJ, an alloy made of low oxidation silver and genuine moon dust.

RJ-Romain Jerome Moon Orbiter GMT Limited Edition watch case back

RJ-Romain Jerome’s unique spring piston lugs have been specially adapted for the new round case, ensuring maximum comfort on the wrist.

The Moon Orbiter GMT marks a break from the previous model with a 48 mm rounded case, made from steel incorporating elements from the Apollo 11 spacecraft. In the centre, the dial is arranged around the brand’s iconic traverses, in which a flying tourbillon is set at 9 o’clock, balanced by the time dial at 3 o’clock. The tourbillon is particularly remarkable for its assertive aesthetics and for the bridges’ highly contemporary architecture.

RJ-Romain Jerome Moon Orbiter GMT Limited Edition watch

Characteristics of the Moon Orbiter GMT, the plate and dial form one piece that is engraved with a stellar pattern motif. It allows maximum visibility on the movement’s circular-grained components and train, both on the dial and on the rear side.

To complete the timepiece, the black alligator strap has been enhanced with a red stitching. Constituting a contemporary embodiment of fine watchmaking, the Moon Orbiter GMT timepiece comes in a strictly limited edition of 25.

Technical details

Model: RJ-Romain Jerome Moon Orbiter GMT
Reference: RJ.M.TO.MO.011.01 | Collection: Moon-DNA | Universe: AIR

Movement
Caliber RJ7813L Mechanical self-winding movement with Flying Tourbillon
Rate Frequency: 28,800 vph
Jewelling; 38 jewels
Power reserve; 45 hours

Functions 
Hours and minutes at 3’clock
12-hours GMT retrograde at 12 o’clock and day/night at 2 o’clock on subdial,
Power reserve at 6 o’clock on subdial
Flying tourbillon at 9 o’clock

Case  
Ø 48 mm, satin-finished steel containing fragments of Apollo 11
Case back; Sapphire crystal
Bezel: Satin-finished steel
Water resistance: 3 atm (30 meters)
Push-buttons: Steel
Lugs: Polished steel, fitted with cylinder system for optimal wrist adjustment, patented system
Crown: Steel screw-lock crown with black rubber

Dial 
Grey dial with laser engraved “stellar-patterned” and integrated X-shaped traverses
Circular satin-brushed counters
Hands: Rhodiumed and satin-brushed with red lacquer hour and minute hands, GMT and power reserve indicators

Strap  
Black alligator strap with red stitching and steel pin buckle

Limited edition
25 pieces

Retail price 
CHF 99’000.- / EUR 109’950.-/ USD 120’950.-

Greubel Forsey GF 05 GMT Platinum

In 2011, Independent Swiss watch brand Greubel Forsey revolutionized the field of GMT (dual time zone) watches with their innovative timepiece and its original technique, aesthetics and practicality. Its exceptional precision movement, featuring the 24-second tourbillon with 25° inclination, now comes set against a platinum backdrop.

Greubel Forsey GF 05 GMT Platinum

Driven by a spirit of research, master watchmakers Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have gone well beyond the conventional time zone display using a window or a hand, by incorporating into their timepiece a terrestrial globe completing each anti-clockwise rotation in 24h – the same direction in which our planet spins.

This planisphere presents all the global time zones in real time from the perspective of the North Pole where they converge. All the information can be viewed at a single glance. A lateral window set in the case offers a viewpoint over the Southern Hemisphere.

Greubel Forsey GF 05 GMT Platinum

The South Pole does not appear since it is the anchor point of the globe, which houses a “flying” pivot system. Greubel Forsey chose titanium, engraved with extreme precision in three dimensions to represent the continents in miniature.

The globe stands prominent at 8 o’clock, while the 24-second Tourbillon also protrudes at 5 o’clock. The platinum case has a third protrusion at 1 o’clock: the main time indications are clearly displayed, overlaid in a cascade across this area of the dial side , with a small seconds at 2 o’clock and then a sectorial power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. At 10 o’clock is the GMT display for the second time zone.

Greubel Forsey GF 05 GMT Platinum

The back of the Greubel Forsey GF 05 GMT watch displays universal time for 24 time zones, through an original rotating disc. This bears the names of 24 cities, and providing a particularly legible display, light-colored cartouches differentiating summer time (for cities which follow this system). As a final touch, a symbolic midday sun at the zenith of the world time disc illuminates the caseback, leaving centre stage of the dial side to the Earth.

Utmost care is taken with the decoration of the components, down to the smallest details. The hand finishes take in the entire range of traditional techniques, from frosting to hand-bevelling, as well as the subtleties of hand-polishing, lapping, and straight graining with flat black polished finishes.

The domed crystal, the case-back and lateral window are made from sapphire crystal. The hand stitched black alligator strap has a platinum folding clasp.

The GMT calibre is powered by two barrels providing a 72-h power reserve with a frequency of 21,600 vibrations/hour. The calibre comprises 443 components. It features a 24-second tourbillon with 25° inclination, comprising 87 components for a total weight of 0.36 g.

Besides its chronometric properties and reliability, this regulator system was adopted for its small size, which meant that a calibre diameter of 36.40 mm (16 ½ lines) could be kept.

This makes for a new medium-sized case, 43.5 mm wide with a total height of 16.14 mm. Made from 950 platinum, it has a slightly lighter hue than the previous white gold version.

Technical details

Model: Greubel Forsey GF 05 GMT Platinum

Functions
2nd time zone GMT display
Tourbillon 24 Secondes
Titanium rotating globe with universal time display
24 time zone world time display
Summer time indicator
World time disc with summer time zones
Day-and-night indicator
Power-reserve indicator
Hour and minute display
Small second indicator
GMT pusher
Equatorial synthetic sapphire crystal lateral window

Movement
Calibre GF05
Mechanical hand-wound movement with patented tourbillon

Movement dimensions
• Diameter: 36.40 mm
• Thickness: 9.80 mm

Number of parts
• Complete movement: 443 parts
• Tourbillon cage: 87 parts
• Weight of the cage: 0.36 g

Number of jewels
• 50
• Olived-domed jewels in gold chatons

Power reserve
• 72 hours: Barrels
• Two coaxial series-coupled fast-rotating barrels (1 turn in 3.2 hours), one of which is equipped with a slipping spring to avoid excess tension

Balance wheel
• Free sprung variable-inertia balance with gold mean-time screws (10 mm diameter)
Frequency: 21’600 vibrations/hour

Balance spring
• Phillips terminal curve
• Geneva-style stud

Main plates
Nickel silver, frosted and spotted, hand-bevelled with countersinks, straight-grained flanks, black chrome treatment

Bridges
Nickel silver, frosted and spotted, hand-bevelled, straight-grained flanks, polished countersinks, black chrome treatment
Gold plate engraved with the individual number
Flat black polished steel tourbillon bridge, hand-bevelledTourbillon cage
Inclined at a 25° angle, 24-second rotation
Cage pillars in Avional
Titanium cage bridges
Gold counterweight

Gearing
Involute circle profile
Conical gearing with corrected profiles

Displays
Hour and minute
Small second
72-hour power reserve on a sector
2ndtime zone GMT indicator
24 time zone world time display
Rotating titanium globe with universal time display
Summer time indicator
Day-and-night indicator

Case
Platinum with asymmetrical convex synthetic sapphire crystal
Transparent back with asymmetrical convex synthetic sapphire crystal
Polished bezel and centre band with hand finished straight graining
Lateral window with shaped synthetic sapphire crystal
Three-dimensional, variable geometry shaped lugs
Platinum pusher with raised polished engraving “GMT” on a hand-punched background
Raised polished engraving “Greubel Forsey” on a hand-punched background
Hand-engraved individual number
Gold security screws
Case dimensions: Diameter: 43.50 mm & Thickness: 16.14 mm
Water-resistance: 3 atm – 30 m – 100 ft (standard NIHS 92-20/SN ISO 22810:2010)
Crown: In platinum with engraved and black lacquered GF logo

Dial
Principal hour-minute dial: in gold, frosted, black chrome treatment
Hour-ring: white gold
Gold power-reserve sector
Gold small second dial
Gold GMT indicator
Applied gold Greubel Forsey logo

Hands
Hour and minute in polished gold, with Super-LumiNova
Small second blued steel and power-reserve in polished gold
2nd time zone GMT indicator, red triangle

Strap and clasp
Hand-sewn blue or black alligator
Platinum folding clasp, hand-engraved with the Greubel Forsey logo

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon

Swiss watch manufacture Audemars Piguet has announced the launch of their new Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon which is to be presented for the first time at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie 2014 (SIHH) in Geneva.

Its sculpted titanium case middle  and integrated rubber strap combine with a white ceramic bezel to frame the highly architectural array of tourbillon carriage and second ‘GMT’ time-zone display inside – case and movement in perfect harmony. New for 2014, however, is the flash of pure white centre-stage: an intricately machined upper bridge made of white ceramic – only possible now, thanks to Audemars Piguet’s ongoing advances in materials science.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon with white ceramic bezel

The Royal Oak Concept was first unveiled in 2002 as an avant-garde, 30th-anniversary tribute to Audemars Piguet’s legendary octagonal Royal Oak – designed by Gérald Genta as the world’s first luxury watch in stainless steel.

The Concept’s ultra-hard Alacrite 602 case was more rounded to highlight Genta’s signature octagonal bezel and its eight hexagonal screws. The dial was left off, exposing the advanced micro-mechanics ticking within.

All these revolutionary design codes have persisted throughout the Concept series, from 2008’s Royal Oak Carbon Concept Tourbillon and Chronograph – an ultra-light timepiece that was the first to combine a forged-carbon case and movement mainplate – to the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon of 2011, with ultra-light, ultra-resistant titanium case and black-ceramic octagonal bezel, pushpieces and crown.

This year’s Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon features a white ceramic bezel, crown and pushpieces instead of black, all heightening the contrast with the titanium case middle. However, in typical, trailblazing style, the Manufacture has now gone one step further and incorporated ceramic into the movement itself, replacing the blackened upper bridge of Calibre 2913 with white ceramic.

As a result, the new Calibre 2930 is visually transformed, its dazzling, hourglass-shaped bridge further enlivened by the double symmetry of the tourbillon bridges and GMT display.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon watch 2014

White ceramic is about nine times harder than steel, meaning the manufacture of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon’s bezel, pushpieces, crown and especially its intricately shaped upper bridge was a complex and lengthy process.

Ceramic is an almost totally scratchproof composite material that can be scratched only by diamonds, calling for the use of special milling-cutter machines equipped with diamond-tipped tools. Treating the roughed-out surfaces and edges to a polished or satin-brushed finish represents a daunting technical challenge, due to ceramic’s inherent resistance to abrasion.

It takes around 8 hours to make the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon’s bezel, compared with 45 minutes if it were steel, calling upon all the savoir-faire of the watchmakers and engineers. As well as giving an exceptionally smooth final appearance, ceramic has a practical purpose, displaying extreme resistance to wear.

Similarly, the titanium used for the case middle and sapphire surround is ultra strong, comfortable to wear twice and as light as steel – advantageous for a watch of such generous 44mm proportions. Further demonstrating Audemars Piguet’s deeply entrenched knowledge of high-tech metals and materials, the inner flange circling the dial is made of lightweight aluminium, hardened by anodisation.

This daring cocktail of ceramics and metals is just the latest chapter in Audemars Piguet’s ongoing quest to push the envelope when it comes to materials science – a quest that started over 40 years ago with the Manufacture’s most daring move of all, using steel in a luxury watch for the very first time.

The defining characteristic of Audemars Piguet’s Concept watches has always been the coherence of case and movement. The ultra-modern ‘engine’ is seamlessly integrated within its ultra-modern ‘chassis’, whose techy aesthetic perfectly complements and showcases the exposed micro-mechanics. An impressive feat in its own right, the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon’s hand-wound Calibre 2930 features a twin barrel ensuring 10-day power reserve, tourbillon and second time-zone ‘GMT’ display.

Its timekeeping is regulated by a 3Hz (21,600vph) escapement, rotating inside a tourbillon carriage every 60 seconds, compensating for the effects of the Earth’s gravity when the watch is oriented vertically for any length of time.

The tourbillon cage comprises 85 components, yet only 0.45g in weight. An experienced watchmaker spends almost three days assembling its 85 components, including two full days to install the cage, while the full workings will require over two weeks of work. Audemars Piguet is still one of the few manufactures to have mastered all the intricacies of this complication, with over 25 different movements featuring a tourbillon. Each component is bevelled, polished, assembled and balanced by hand.

The GMT display provides an instant reading of the time in a second time-zone. It is adjusted using the pushpiece at 4 o’clock (one press adjusts the time by one hour). The indication of the second time-zone, based on 12 hours, comprises two superimposed discs, making it easy to tell the time. The first, on which the figures are inscribed, completes one turn in 12 hours. The second, just below, completes a turn in 24 hours and has 2 coloured areas: a white half for daytime and a black half for night-time. This makes it easier to read the figures.

Audemars Piguet’s proprietary parallel double barrel system ensures the AP Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon runs for as many as 10 days before it needs to be manually wound again, generating a constant force during some 237 hours of autonomy, enhancing timekeeping precision.

The energy from Calibre 2930’s two 10-day barrels is fed into the geartrain at the same time via a single pinion bridging the two. This is a far gentler means of transmitting energy than the usual system of two series-linked 5-day barrels. It also reduces pressure in the gearing, the friction in the barrels is used to offset torque variations, and it gives increased running precision, greater power reserve and enhanced reliability.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon watch also features a selection indicator mechanism. According to the position of the winding stem, the hand positioned on the dial at 6 o’clock indicates the function selected. The H, N and R indications correspond to the three positions of the winding stem, meaning time-setting, neutral and winding respectively.

Technical details

Model: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon

Movement
Calibre 2930, hand-wound manufacture
Total diameter: 35.60mm (15 ¾ lines)
Thickness: 9.90mm
Number of jewels: 29
Number of parts: 291
Power reserve: 237h
Frequency of balance wheel: 3Hz (21,600vph)
White ceramic upper bridge
Finishing: hand-finished bridges and mainplate, hand finished cut-out parts, polished angles, hand-drawn file strokes on upper surface and matt finish beneath.

Case
Titanium case
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback
White ceramic bezel
Screw-locked crown and white ceramic pushpiece
Water-resistant to 100m

Display
Open-worked
Second time-zone indicator at 3 o’clock
Crown position indicator at 6 o’clock
Tourbillon at 9 o’clock with black anodized aluminium bridge
White gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating
Black anodized aluminium inner bezel

Bracelet
White rubber strap with titanium AP folding clasp

Function
24-hour GMT display
Day and night indicator
Functions selection
Hours and minutes

Reference
RO 26580IO OO D010CA SDT

CORUM Admiral’s Cup Seafender 47 Tourbillon GMT

The Admiral’s Cup Seafender 47 Tourbillon GMT by CORUM combines sporty lines and benchmark horological complications, namely a tourbillon and a dual time zone.

With its tourbillon at 10.30 and the GMT function at 6 o’clock displaying the second time zone, this Admiral’s Cup Seafender powered by the automatic C0397 movement, is entirely in tune with the noblest traditions of Fine Watchmaking.

The first automatic tourbillon model in the Admiral’s Cup collection with its ultra-precise movement beating at the frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), this sports tourbillon – which is particularly resistant thanks to its micrometrical screws – is also distinguished by its “turbine” design. Beneath each “turbine”, a wheel moves in the opposite direction to the effect created by the turbine.

These intriguing shapes work their magic with a tourbillon that appears to be floating in mid-air beneath a V-shaped bridge and a tourbillon carriage enhanced by the Corum key symbol.

CORUM Admiral’s Cup Seafender 47 Tourbillon GMT

The extremely readable hour and minute dual time-zone display, positioned at 6 o’clock, is complemented by the three-quarter circular day/night indicator at 7.30.

The pointer-type date indication appearing in a subdial at 3 o’clock sets the perfect finishing touch to the harmonious visual appeal of this sophisticated and elegant watch endowed with a 50-hour power reserve. Note the discreet presence of a pusher at 4 o’clock designed for smooth and easy adjustment of the dual time-zone display.

With its generously sized 47 mm diameter, the Admiral’s Cup Seafender Tourbillon GMT is distinguished by its two logos, Corum and Admiral’s Cup, engraved directly on the inner face of its anti-reflective sapphire crystal – a feature also found on the screw-down back.

The model is available in two versions. The first is the epitome of originality and lightness, with its case, bezel and crown guard in 7075 aluminum featuring an electro-plasma treatment that makes this material harder by endowing it with a light yet ultra-sturdy character. The ceramization (electro-plasma) process gives the 7075 aluminum a dark gray shade.

The dial is adorned with a Clous de Paris motif and rhodium coated hour-markers, as well as skeleton hour and minute hands, a dauphine-type date pointer and rhodium coated dual time-zone hands enhanced with superluminova for nocturnal readability.

The collection’s characteristic nautical pennants are positioned between the hour-markers and the inner bezel ring. The 18K gold version features hands and hour-markers in the same material and also superluminova treated.

Both models are water-resistant to 50 meters and fitted with a crocodile leather strap complete with a folding clasp in grade 5 titanium or 18K gold, engraved in both cases with the Corum logo.

Technical details

Model: CORUM Admiral’s Cup Seafender 47 Tourbillon GMT
Reference 397.101.55/0001 AK10

Movement
Self-winding movement, CO397
Frequency 4 Hz, 28,800 vibrations/hour
28 jewels
Special CORUM finish, with “turbine” design motifs on the plate and open-worked oscillating weight
Power reserve of 50 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, date, second time zone, day/night indicator, tourbillon

Case
47mm diameter, twelve-sided case
18kt red gold 5N
Glass: Cambered twelve-sided sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 50 meters (165 feet/5 atm)

Dial
Charcoal with Clous de Paris motifs
Date indication in a dial at 3 o’clock
Second time zone at 6 o’clock
Day/night indicator at 7:30 o’clock
Tourbillon cage at 11 o’clock
12 monochrome nautical pennant hour-markers on the flange
Applique chevrons and minute numerals in gold 5N
Faceted skeleton hour and minute baton hands with superluminova
Faceted counter hands with superluminova

Strap
Black crocodile leather strap
Buckle: 18kt red gold 5N tongue buckle, engraved with CORUM logo