GENUS WATCHES

GENUS is an independent luxury watch brand based in Geneva. Co-founded by Sébastien Billières and Catherine Henry, the brand made its debut in 2019 with the launch of their innovative GNS wristwatch. The timepieces are entirely conceived, developed and manufactured in its independent workshop in Geneva, in compliance with the standards and requirements of Haute Horlogerie.

In June 2019, GENUS submitted an entry for the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix (GPHG) as a launch pad and media springboard to unveil the first model in its collection. The debut model from the brand GNS boasts a world-premier time display mechanism developed in-house.

About Sébastien Billières

Watchmaker, instructor, entrepreneur, and co-founder of GENUS, Sébastien Billières successfully leverages an expertise in Fine Watchmaking acquired while working with some of the greatest in the field.

Barely a few days after obtaining his CFC as a watchmaker in 1999, Sébastien Billières joined at the workshop of Roger Dubuis, which had approximately ten employees at the time, and collaborates directly with the master himself.

Eager for experience, he came in contact with other strong personalities, like Felix Baumgartner in the early years of Urwerk. Sébastien Billières then joined the Opus V project team at Harry Winston, in charge of fine-tuning alongside Felix (prototyping), and testing and parts production. Until today he remains in charge of after-sales service operations for Harry Winston.

When Sébastien Billières decided to set up on his own, the workbench he rented from Svend Andersen turns out to have been previously occupied by none other than Felix Baumgartner, his friend and mentor, and Franck Muller.

The production of tourbillons, a specialization in automatons – just two of the fields in which the budding watchmaker has developed a wide range of skills that don’t go unnoticed for long. In 2006, Billières was approached by IFAGE, the Foundation for Adult Education in Geneva, to broaden the scope of its watchmaking curriculum. He became the Chairman of the departments he created: Modular Training in Watchmaking and Training in Industrial Quality, and still teaches there.

In 2007, he co-founded a company to develop new mechanisms and complications for high watchmaking “Maisons”. Then he established a shop on his own, and GMTI soon became one of the region’s leading subcontractors to the watchmaking industry with state-of-the-art facilities specialized in the manufacture and assembly of “Poinçon de Genève” calibers. His first creation participated in the 2019 “Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève” competition and marked the unveiling of the exciting and independent Fine Watchmaking brand newly co-founded with his business partner Catherine Henry: GENUS.

About Catherine Henry

Graduate in Management Sciences, mentor, entrepreneur and now co-founder of a Fine Watchmaking brand, Catherine Henry is Chief Operations Officer at GENUS and spearheading the start-up’s launch and business development.

After obtaining her Swiss commercial CFC certificate, she began her career in Zurich with an insurance company and then move to the stock trading desk at the headquarters of a major international bank. Thereafter which she multiplied her work experiences, and each of her positions served as a springboard for the next.

Building on her extensive and solid practical experience, acquired over more than 25 years in different fields and types of organizations, ranging from a multinational to the food industry to construction technology, she then chose to support SMEs and start-ups as mentor in organizing, managing and growing their businesses. Catherine’s working languages are French, English and German.

She was awarded the “Prix de la femme romandeentrepreneure” in 2011 (Female Entrepreneur of Romandie Award – Women In Swiss Business). She now holds an EBBA Degree from the Geneva School of Economics and Management (formerly HEC Geneva) and a Bachelor’s Degree in Management Sciences from the University of Savoie Mont-Blanc, having obtained her titles with distinction and graduated first in her class. Catherine is a mentor at the Career Centre of the University of Geneva.

Catherine Henry and her business partner in this remarkable watchmaking venture, Sébastien Billières, launched their first time piece in the 2019 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) competition.

Website: https://genuswatches.swiss/

GENUS DRAGON

Swiss Haute Horlogerie brand GENUS expands its award winning GNS1 series by presenting a new edition that incorporates a unique kinetic sculpture of dragon that indicates the passage of time.

This timepiece fuses high-end watchmaking, mechanical engineering, goldsmithing, sculpture and engraving. Boasting an innovative way to tell time, the GNS1 wristwatch by GENUS was awarded with the Mechanical Exception Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2019. In 2020, the brand launched the GNS1.2 TD carved from a block of Damascene titanium.

In the new GENUS DRAGON edition, the complex and fluid movement that is the hallmark of GENUS watches breathes life into the most powerful and evocative of all mythical beings – the dragon. The dragon’s body is a fluid sculpture of 18K rose gold, composed of eleven segments– the genera – that move freely, one behind the other, and form the whole creature. The head of the dragon also plays a role in this most kinetic and intriguing way of displaying the time.

GENUS DRAGON

In this new model, the genera invented for its tens-of-minutes display, become the dragon’s body. Eleven sculpted, decorated, hand-engraved rose gold segments follow the celestial trajectory of the analemma, the singular signature of GENUS.

Conscious of the artistic and engineering challenges, GENUS enhanced the dragon’s being by making its backbone stand out, like a wave in motion, to accentuate proportions and reliefs, with a lithe, long and narrow body, a delicate yet commanding head, legs and paws that convey sinewy strength.

A unique kinetic sculpture that GENUS calls onto the stage, and inaugurates with an elegantly shaped sapphire crystal that becomes an observation dome for this work of art. For it is not only a matter of seeing, but of being able to observe a dragon in its environment, watch it move, and enjoy its complex choreography.

GENUS DRAGON

Raising the artistic and artisanal dimension, the 18K rose gold elements are sculpted and delicately engraved by hand. This culture of the exceptional is reflected in the attention to detail given to every aspect of the dragon. The body, scales, paws, claws, the head with its mischievous little horns, the beard, tongue and expressive eyes – they all shine with the high level of finish associated with Haute Horlogerie.

This dragon is in constant motion, the result of an articulation between the calibre and the free-moving segments on one hand, and between the segments themselves on the other. Moreover, there is nothing simple about the trajectory it follows. It is neither linear nor circular, and it crosses over itself. At its core, the GENUS watchmaking concept is based on a movement along an analemma, or figure eight, the sign of infinity.

GENUS DRAGON

The ‘return trips,’ as it were, around the foci, the rotations to the right and left, tracing the curves and diagonals – the behavior of each segment of the dragon’s body has been studied along this path, where the speed of progression fluctuates depending on the position along the trajectory. Each one of the eleven segments – of a particular shape, height and weight – is unique. This in turn enhances the impression of unencumbered movement and realistically evokes a serpent-like undulation that is best observed along the dragon’s spine.

Experts from two prestigious arts – watchmaking and jewel engraving – came together to create the most realistic texture for the inside of the mouth and the tongue, down to the smallest detail. To achieve this, the delicate head was sculpted from 6 separate blocks of gold.

The gold thread tendrils that seem to float in the wind reveal the artist who inhabits the watchmaker. Absolute and uncompromising attention to detail pervaded each stage of the creation of this kinetic sculpture, where each element acquired a precise volume and dimension to allow the dragon to glide and cross over from one orbit to the other.

GENUS DRAGON

Whilst the case and movement of GENUS DRAGON are in white gold, the specifications of the sapphire crystal have been adapted to the requirements of this timepiece. Raised slightly higher and being more curved, it has become a display dome for the dragon in all its magnificence.

GENUS DRAGON is equipped with the Calibre 160W-1.2. Here, the tens-of-minutes are not indicated by a genus, but by the dragon’s head. The magical appearance of the dragon between crystal and movement is based on the same technical fundamentals as previous GENUS creations. By taking on the form of the dragon, the genera –the free-moving elements that transition from one orbit to the other on the tens-of-minutes display – demonstrate the flexibility and versatility of this singular interpretation of horological principles.

The architecture of Calibre 160W-1.2 reveals the nature, the driving force of GENUS. There are two parts, or modules, to the watch. The first, which can be described as the foundation, groups the essential functions, including a single barrel. It ensures a 50-hour power reserve, which is considerable in view of the complexity of the calibre and the masses in movement. The second module, overlaying the first, manages the display complication of hours, tens-of-minutes and precise minutes.

Entirely designed, developed and assembled in the Geneva workshop, GENUS DRAGON is the first and only watch in the world in which an articulated dragon expresses the passage of time. Here, the system indicating the tens-of-minutes takes the form of the mythical dragon creature and reveals the imaginative versatility of this unique calibre.

GENUS DRAGON

The plate and bridges are made of 18K gold sourced from an environmentally and socially responsible supply chain certified by the RJC (Responsible Jewellery Council). All the components of Calibre 160W-1.2 have been designed and hand-crafted by the watchmaker in the finest Haute Horlogerie tradition.

All 390 components show a degree and quality of hand-finishing achieved only with the most meticulous care, with the mirror-polished anchor bridge, the micro-blasted plate and bridges in particular bringing out mesmerizing contrasts. The shapes of the beveled and polished edges, too, multiply the ways in which light plays to the calibre’s intrinsic beauty.

The two main features that distinguish GNS are the subject of patent applications: the rotating and peripheral display of the hour indices; and the passage from one orbit of the analemma to the other. The trajectory of the dragon’s body segments around the foci was a major issue. They must be kept in place, yet at the same time be free to progress from one wheel to the other. Squaring this circle was rendered even more perplexing by the fact that the matter concerns each segment.

The dragon segments are much heavier than the genera of the other GENUS watches. For one thing, they are made of 18K rose gold, a material much heavier than brass or steel. A dragon for keeping time would therefore pose a major constraint on the movement, both in terms of energy consumption and friction.

As for the required energy, it is amply supplied by the movement’s configuration, which delivers on its commitment to reliability, precision, and power to absorb the additional loads.

Technical details

Collection: GNS1
Model name: GNS DRAGON
Reference: GNS1.2 WG DRAGON

Case
Material: 18K white gold
Thickness: 18.8 mm
Diameter: 43 mm
Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal on face, flat sapphire crystal case back, with antireflective coating
Crown: 18K white gold – G-E-N-U-S lettering in positive relief on the circumference, providing grip for winding
Water resistance: Approx. 30 meters (3 ATM)

Movement
Calibre 160W-1.2, manually winding, manufactured at the GENUS workshop in Geneva
Material: Plate and bridges in 18K gold
Components: 390
Rubies: 26
Frequency: 2.5 Hz or 18,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: Approx. 50 hours
Regulator: Variable inertia balance wheel, Swiss anchor escapement
Modular Two modules:
– Power storage and transmission
– Power distribution and regulation

Display complication
Hours: 12 satellite indices / peripheral and axial rotation (patent pending)
Tens-of-minutes: 11 mobile elements transitioning between two counter-rotating wheels (patent pending), crafted from 18K rose gold, stylized to form a dragon, and hand-engraved
Precise minute: Skeletonized disc
Numbers and indicators: Coated with SuperLuminova™

The display is read from left to right:
On the left, the hour is indicated by the fixed arrow
In the center, the tens-of-minutes are indicated by the dragon’s head
On the right, by the crown, the precise minute is indicated by the fixed arrow

Strap
Calfskin (alligator upon request), rolled-edge (‘rembordé’), hand-stitched, choice of color
Pin buckle in 18K white gold (fold-over clasp available upon request)

Suggested retail price
CHF 150000 excluding VAT, ex works – for gem-set versions and bespoke possibilities.

Digital Passport

To provide owners the guarantee of their timepiece’s authenticity and traceability throughout its lifetime, GENUS has joined forces with the Arianee Project, an independent consortium with the mission to establish a global standard for the digital certification of valuables. Based on Blockchain technology, the decentralized and open-source protocol offers a set of new services for the watch owner that are directly accessible from the Certificate of Authenticity delivered with each GENUS watch.

The specifics of each GENUS DRAGON, including the transactions in which it is involved, e.g., sale and/or transmission to a new owner, service book, proof of ownership/theft declaration are recorded and protected. The Arianee protocol allows GENUS not only to emancipate itself from paper-based authentication (which can be counterfeited), but, most importantly, guarantees the traceability of the timepiece throughout its lifetime, even in the event of a change of ownership.

GENUS GNS 1.2 RG (In Rose Gold)

This highly exceptional wristwatch in rose gold belongs to the GENUS GNS 1 collection that won the ‘Mechanical Exception’ award in the 2019 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). The other GNS 1 models are GNS 1.2 WG (white gold), GNS1.2 TD (Damascene Titanium) and GNS1.1 RG (rose gold).

Equipped with the 160R-1.2 manual winding movement designed in-house and manufactured by GENUS, the GNS1.2 RG (rose gold) watch displays time in a unique way that deconstructs the conventional systems.

GENUS GNS 1.2 RG (In Rose Gold)

On the display side, you can discover twelve satellites (blue with Arabic numerals), one for each hour. They each make a complete revolution every twelve hours around the periphery, flush with the crystal. The current hour is indicated by the red stationary fixed arrow on the left, in front of which the satellites pass. They remain aligned in the reading direction, by rotating 90° every 3 hours, i.e. four times on their 12-hour journey. The numerals affixed to the hour satellites are luminous and the result of meticulous design and artisanship.

GENUS GNS 1.2 RG (In Rose Gold)

Minutes are precisely divided into tens and single digits and are not indicated as an approximation. The red stationary arrow on the right, near the crown, points to the precise minute digit on a skeletonised rotary dial that is graduated from 0 to 9. In the center of the timepiece, two large blue counter-rotating wheels are graduated in increments of 10 minutes by cut-out numbers that seem to float in space.

The two minutes wheels drive a procession of lozenge-shaped pieces that travel freely from one orbit to the other. The way they progress in single file to express the passage of time in a large 8, symbol of infinity is the genesis of the time display concept of this watch. The first element of the procession indicates the tens-of-minutes. This is the lead indicator, called the Genus. It is followed by 11 Genera (the plural of Genus) which evoke a trailing memory of the elapsed minutes.

GENUS GNS 1.2 RG (In Rose Gold)

A rosette forms on the watch face every 15 and 45 minutes, alternating between the upper and lower minute wheels as the procession of the Genus and Genera progresses. This corollary mechanism draws the eye, ever so subtly, and gives the timepiece an ever-changing face. In it, some see an analemma, the figure 8 drawn in the sky by recording the different positions of the sun, at the same time and from the same location during a calendar year – a most convincing illustration of the passage of time.

For enhanced legibility in low light conditions, the elements providing time information are treated with a luminescent coating.

The manufacture movement in 18 carat rose gold – entirely designed, developed and assembled at the Geneva workshop – combines the functions of energy storage (winding and barrel), transmission (gear box) and time regulation (balance wheel, hairspring and escapement).

GENUS GNS 1.2 RG (In Rose Gold)

A single large-diameter barrel stores enough energy to ensure a power reserve of approximately fifty hours, which is considerable given the complexity of the calibre and the time indication components that need to be kept in motion. This hand-wound movement operates at 18,000 vibrations per hour or 2.5 Hz. Regulation is assured by a traditional Swiss anchor escapement, coupled with a balance hairspring and variable inertia balance wheel.

Avant-garde from the front, the movement seen from the back appears to be more classic, reminiscent of pocket watch movements. Although the layout may be seen as traditional, the actual construction is quite unusual. That is because the movement is made in two parts that separate power storage and transmission (cylinder & counter gear) from power distribution and regulation (escapement & hairspring).

The benefit is that the fluidity of each complication can be optimally verified and adjusted, by simply removing the power distribution and regulation part of the movement if additional adjustment steps are needed. A ruthenium treatment visually distinguishes the ‘separation of powers’ underscoring this aspect of the design with contrasting finishes and color choices.

GENUS GNS 1.2 RG (In Rose Gold)

The distinctive time display complication, being at the nexus of tradition, innovation and creative renewal, epitomizes the cornerstone of GENUS’ singularity: The arched bridges, the shape of the steel components (springs, scales) and wheels create a sophisticated style with contrasting points and curves. These inflection points create zones of variation in light giving added effect – the pleasing result of aesthetic choices combined with an extremely high level of finish. This ingenious, complex, and meticulously finished mechanism animates the passage of time in what we might describe as a fractioned manner.

Thanks to a sophisticated construction, the indices and Genera move with fluidity, precision, and reliability. The impression of the whole is that of an architectural object animated by moving elements that each plays a role in indicating the passage of time. Distilling the essence of the concept is the hypnotic display of tens of minutes, like a kinetic sculpture. The generous aperture of the watch face and domed crystal, sitting flush with the edge of the case, together provide optimal visibility for appreciation of the intricacies of the time-telling complication

The choice of 18K gold for building this watch is driven by a double ambition. Firstly, the nobility of GENUS resides in its watchmaking substance and legitimacy. It is therefore logical for it to be crafted in a noble material. Secondly, besides being synonymous with high value and exclusivity, 18K gold offers other advantages. It is largely immune to the detrimental influence of magnetic fields on a timepiece movement and it is extremely suitable for high levels of finishing and decoration.

All components have been designed and hand-worked in the brand’s Geneva workshop, in accordance with the exacting standards of Haute Horlogerie. The gears, main plate and bridges are all hand-bevelled, angled, and straight-grained by hand and most steel parts are mirror-polished.

In Haute Horlogerie, the mirror polish – also called “black polish” – represents the highest level of finish achievable on steel components. The steel parts are skillfully and delicately polished by hand in a circular pattern using diamantine powder on a zinc plate. The result is a perfectly pristine surface without the slightest hint of a mark, even under high magnification.

More than 4 hours of painstaking polishing and attention to detail are dedicated to achieve such a high-quality finish on components of such small dimensions – not counting the work that goes into hand-bevelling the sides.

The Manufacture movement comes with the same high standard of finishing. Meticulous care is taken at every step. The ratchet is snailed, the click spring is satin finished, the plate and four bridges are micro-blasted, creating a matte effect that gives more depth whilst allowing those parts that are polished to a shine, to stand out. All edges are hand-chamfered and polished by a demanding and uncompromising watchmaker.

GENUS GNS 1.2 RG (In Rose Gold)

The GNS1.2 watch features a meticulously designed 18K rose gold case, which is ergonomically comfortable and wearable on a daily basis. The case dimensions are dictated by the needs of the movement – 43 mm in diameter and 13.1 mm in thickness. The search for the ideal balance in terms of case style resulted in a subtle, downturned form. Distinctive yet understated as well as stable and very comfortable, the case naturally follows the curves of the wrist.

Like a jewellery display case, the minimalist cladding unobtrusively protects and at the same time showcases the inner workings of the GNS1.2WG architecture. The seamless integration of the domed sapphire crystal offers a spectacular and deep view into the lace-like intricacy of the time display complication.

The water resistant case (30 meters) shields the precision in-house movement and its complication module, from particulate matter, water, and perspiration. This impressive water resistance rating ensures optimum reliability for daily wear.

The case, movement main plate, bridges, and buckle are made of ethical 18K gold, certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC). The leather strap is sourced from a supply chain with certified traceability.

Technical details

Case
Material: 18K Rose Gold
Thickness: 13. 3 mm
Diameter: 43 mm
Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with antireflective coating
Crown: Gold 18K, G-E-N-U-S letters in relief around its circumference for winding grip
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM)

Movement
Calibre: 160R-1.2 manual winding
Designed in-house and manufactured by GENUS
Material: 18K solid gold, including main plate & bridges
Components: 418
Rubies: 26
Frequency: 2.5 Hz, or 18,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: About 50 hours
Regulating organ: Escapement with a Swiss anchor, hairspring, variable inertia balance wheel
Modular construction in two parts: One for power storage and transmission, the other for distribution and timing adjustment

Functions
Hours: 12 satellites/peripheral and axial rotation index (patented)
Tens of minutes: 12 free components circulating to-and-from between 2 counter rotating wheels (patented)
Units of minutes: Skeletonised disc
Numerals & indicators: With SuperLuminova™

Time reading
Time is read from left to right
– Left: Hour (12 moving indices, pass in front of a fixed arrow)
– Center: Tens-of-minutes (free-moving lead element – called the Genus – followed by its procession of 11 Genera)
– Right: Minute (near the crown, fixed arrow)

Strap
Calf (alligator upon request), folded-over and hand-stitched– Gold-brown
Buckle: 18K rose gold pin buckle
Clasp: Fold-over clasp available upon request

Recommended Retail Price
CHF 148 000 w/out tax
Gem-set version: Price upon request (is dependent upon personalization)

GENUS GNS1.2 TD (Damascene Titanium)

Geneva based independent luxury Swiss watch brand GENUS has announced a new Damascene Titanium edition of its award winning GNS1.2 timepiece. Along with the launch of this new watch, the brand is also introducing the digital certification of all its timepieces. This certification is an effective and modern means of combating counterfeiting and guaranteeing authenticity for the owner of each GENUS wristwatch throughout its lifetime.

GENUS GNS1.2 TD (Damascene Titanium)

Introduced in 2019, the GNS1.2 has pioneered a new way of looking at and telling time with orbital hours and minutes. This timepiece is a combined result of ten years of extensive research, two clever inventions and three years of development. This creation also holds two patents that lay down the basic principles of the two innovative mechanisms behind the free-flowing time display. The timepiece won the Mechanical Exception Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in November 2019.

This year, GENUS has decided to explore the world of metal artisanship. The GENUS GNS1.2 TD is carefully carved from a block of Damascene Titanium, a successful fusion of ancestral metal-smithing technique and modern material. This ancient technique is traditionally called Mokume-gane in Japan, where the method has been used for making katana sword blades since the 17th century.

GENUS GNS1.2 TD (Damascene Titanium)

In 2019, GENUS introduced the GNS1.2 WG (white gold) and the GNS1.2 RG (rose gold) models. Now also available with a Damascene Titanium case, the GNS1.2 timepiece has 43 mm diameter and 13.3 mm thick case. The watch houses the caliber 160W-1.2 or 160R-1.2, a new movement consisting of 418 components, entirely created and manufactured by GENUS in their Geneva workshop.

GENUS GNS1.2 TD (Damascene Titanium)

This movement powers a novel complication for indicating time. Instead of the dial and hands, this movement drives twelve satellites, one for each hour for an unprecedented way of telling time.

The satellites make a complete revolution along the periphery of the movement, at the crystal’s edge, once every twelve hours. The fixed white arrow on the left, in front of which the satellites scroll, points to the current hour. To remain in the reading direction, the satellites re-orient themselves and pivot 90 degrees every 3 hours, i.e. four times. The hour numbers – moulded in SuperLuminova™ and affixed to the revolving time-indicating satellites – are the result of meticulous development and design.

The damascene titanium is a material virtually unheard of in fine watchmaking. The art of damascening consists of forging sheets of metal layer by layer. After having been hammered, each sheet is folded back upon itself, and the operation is repeated as many times as necessary. This homogeneous ‘stacking’ of homogeneous layers, each one annealed between each fold, gives the material an entirely new, particular aspect. Each incision, each bevel into the edge of the damascened metal reveals the strata, the shapes, the undulations, and the unique character of each layer.

GENUS GNS1.2 TD (Damascene Titanium)

The laborious work, at the heart of the forge’s embers, of folding and layering is usually done with iron or steel for katana blades. Damascening of titanium is a craft reserved for the best. Although 40% lighter, titanium is three times harder and can be forged at temperatures 300 degrees higher than for conventional watchmaking steel. This method, which remains largely manual, is quite laborious and complex.

GENUS GNS1.2 TD (Damascene Titanium) forging

To further enrich the distinctive appearance of this basic material, GENUS works with layers of various titanium alloys, each of which exhibits a different tint and reaction to heat. The colorful effect is rendered even more eye-catching by the final heat treatment that determines the general tone of the metal block, along with its subtle differences in tints and hues.

GENUS GNS1.2 TD (Damascene Titanium) flame

Each part of the GNS1.2 TD’s casing is cut at an angle to achieve a different, unique appearance. GENUS then works to coordinate the different parts that make up a watch. The brand is also offering the future owners to attend the ‘damascene revelation’ by open flame at the GENUS workshop in Geneva. [Click here to view the video of damascene process].

If desired, the future owner can intervene directly in the colouring as well as decide on a particular surface finish: matte, satin or polished. Only the owner shall be aware of the secrets of the manufacturing process and the artisans’ skills.

GENUS GNS1.2 TD (Damascene Titanium) buckle

The 18K gold in-house calibre forms the established foundation of the authentic, genuine, and sincere watchmaking approach of GENUS.

GENUS GNS1.2 TD (Damascene Titanium)

Particularly attentive to its customers, and always receptive to their wishes and preferences, GENUS has made several adjustments to its masterpiece. For instance, the orientation of the ‘genera’ – the hallmark free-moving elements that flow in a pattern to indicate the tens-of-minutes – can now be personalised.

GENUS GNS1.2 TD (Damascene Titanium)

They can be set straight or inclined, depending on the wearer’s aesthetic preference for the watch. This option can provide a more comfortable legibility for some owners.

In addition, GENUS adjusted the curvature of the sapphire crystal which eliminated the perceived ridges on the upper perimeter. This mitigates any visual distortion of the hour indices, thereby improving clarity of the timekeeping mechanism.

GENUS GNS1.2 TD (Damascene Titanium)

The architecture of the movement is indicative of the genetics of the GENUS project. The intrinsic principles of freedom, flexibility and future evolution are based on its separation in two parts. The base of the movement groups the essential functions, including a single barrel. It ensures a 50-hour power reserve, which is considerable in view of the complexity of the calibre and the moving elements. On top of this are built the individual complication modules for managing the display of hours, and tens, and units of minutes.

GENUS GNS1.2 TD (Damascene Titanium)

All the components of the calibre 160W-1.2 have been designed and hand-worked by the watchmaker in accordance with the highest traditions of Haute Horlogerie. The main plate and bridges are made of 18K gold obtained through an ecologically and socially responsible supply chain, certified by the RJC (Responsible Jewellery Council). Gold lends itself extremely well to the finest finishing techniques. Gold is also anti-magnetic and is therefore largely protected from the harmful influence of magnetic fields.

The surface finishing treatments of the 418 components of the movement faithfully reflect the brand’s considerable expertise in high-end watchmaking. Each and every tiny part has been worked and re-worked with the most meticulous care and in strict compliance with highest traditions of Haute Horlogerie. The escapement bridge is mirror-polished, as are the two beautiful arrow indicators that show the hours (at 9 o’clock) and minute units (at 3 o’clock). You can also discover a few of the many other components finished in this manner.

GENUS GNS1.2 TD (Damascene Titanium)

The plate and the three bridges are micro-beaded, creating a matte effect that allows the glossy finishes to stand out against a contrasting background. All their edges have been bevelled and polished. The visually arresting effect is further enhanced by their shape with curves that vibrantly reflect any play of light.

To offer owners the guarantee of their timepiece’s authenticity and traceability throughout its life, GENUS has joined forces with the Arianee Project. It is an independent consortium whose mission is to establish a global standard for the digital certification of valuables. Based on blockchain technology, the decentralised and open-source protocol offers a set of new services for the watch owner. These dedicated services are directly accessible from the Certificate of Authenticity delivered with each GENUS watch.

GENUS GNS1.2 TD (Damascene Titanium) digital certificate

The data of each timepiece, and in particular for bespoke orders, the sale and/or transmission to a new owner, the service book, proof of ownership/declaration of theft – the Arianee protocol allows GENUS liberate itself from paper-based authentication (which can be counterfeited) of its timepieces. This system also guarantees its customers traceability of their watch throughout their life, even if the ownership changes over time.

GENUS GNS1.2 TD (Damascene Titanium)

Thus, GENUS timepieces benefit from a unique and forgery-proof digital identity. If the owner desires, the ‘Digital Passport’ may be accompanied by an original photo of the acquired timepiece with its individual serial numbers. This opens up a new channel of communication – permanent, secure and anonymous – between the brand and the owner of the timepiece.

Technical details

Collection: GNS 1
Watch name: GNS1.2
Material: TD (Titane Damassé – Damascene Titanium)
Watch reference: GNS1.2 TD

Case
Material: Damascene Titanium
Diameter: 43 mm
Thickness: 13.3 mm
Crown: Damascene titanium, G-E-N-U-S letters in relief around its circumference
Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with antireflective coating
Case back: Damascene titanium, screw-secured, sapphire crystal with antireflective coating
Water resistance: 30 metres (3 ATM)

Movement
Winding: Manual
Calibre reference: 160W-1.2
Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 7.7 mm
Components: 418
Rubies: 26
Frequency: 2.5 Hz or 18’000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: About 50 hours
Regulating organ: Escapement with a Swiss anchor, hairspring, variable inertia balance wheel

Time display complication
Hours: 12 satellites/peripheral and axial rotation indexes (patent pending)
Tens-of-minutes: 12 free-moving components circulate between 2 counter rotating wheels (patent pending)
Units of minutes: Cut-away disc
Numbers & indexes With SuperLuminova™

Strap
Calf leather, folded edge and hand-stitched, navy blue (Alligator upon request)
Buckle: Pin buckle in damascene titanium with the GENUS logo
Clasp: Fold-over clasp available upon request

Suggested retail price
CHF 145’000.- Ex-works, without VAT

GENUS GNS1.2 WG (White Gold)

GENUS is an independent Geneva watchmaking brand founded by Sébastien Billières and Catherine Henry. Its debut haute-horlogerie master piece, the GNS 1 timepiece introduces a completely new and original approach to telling time. The timepiece featured in this article is the model in white gold (GNS1.2WG).

Created after ten years of extensive research and three years of development, this mechanical timepiece incorporates an extra ordinary feature for the first time in the world of fine watchmaking: Mechanical elements move from one orbit to the other and give information about the time. The case, movement and time display complications of this exceptional timepiece are manufactured in 18K gold.

With GENUS, you’ll learn to read the time differently. Hours are indicated at 9 o’clock, tens-of-minutes are shown by the lead traveling indicator – named “the Genus” – which moves freely from one central orbit to the other, and the precise minute is read on the rotating dial in the traditional 3 o’clock position. Patents for two display complications are pending – one for the hours display complication, and the other for the circulating tens-of-minutes display.

The tens-of-minutes display is captivating. The lead Genus shows the passing of time in 10-minute increments and is followed by 11 Genera (‘genera’ being the plural of ‘genus’) that progress radially along the 8-shaped orbital path, like a kinetic sculpture. As the lead Genus traces its path around the two distinct foci, a rose window is formed by the Genera every 15 and 45 minutes, alternating between the upper and lower tracks of the 8. As time passes, this gives the watch a fascinating and ever changing face. To know the exact time, simply note the hour shown and add the precise minute to the tens-of-minutes indicated by the Genus.

The timepiece is powered by a hand-wound manufacture calibre in 18K gold and features a variable inertia balance wheel. The main base plate is in two parts and separates energy regulation and distribution, from transmission.

All movement components are hand-finished in keeping with the exacting criteria of Haute Horlogerie and feature a hand-bevelled main plate and bridges, circular-grained and bevelled wheels, with most steel components that are black-polished (poli noir finish) and bevelled.

All flank drawing is done by hand. The 18K gold display module has the same exceptional degree of finishing. The combination of a generous dial aperture and box-domed, flush-mounted sapphire crystal frees the view on the module’s architecture and its complexity.

Technical details

Model name: GNS 1
Model reference: GNS1.2WG

Movement and display module
Hand-wound manufacture caliber
Diameter: 38 mm
Thickness: 7.7 mm
Number of movement & module components: 418
Number of rubies: 26
Frequency: 2.5 Hz
Semi-oscillation/hour: 18 000
Power reserve: Approximately 50 hours
Modular movement in two parts:
– One for energy storage and transmission
– The other for energy distribution and regulation
Numbers and indicators: With SuperLuminova™

Hand-finishing of the watch module & movement
Mirror polish
Circular graining
Straight graining
Bevelling
Microbead blasting
Diamond milling
Flank drawing
Angle buffing
Snailing (ratchet)

Functions
– The hour is shown by the large fixed, arrow-shaped index in the traditional 9 o’clock position
– The hours advance in a peripheral motion with periodic angular orientation (recovery by one quarter turn) in the reading direction
– The tens-of-minutes indicator – the “Genus” (a free-circulating element) – moves along an orbital transfer path between two foci, tracing a figure 8 at the watch center. It allows tens-of minutes to be read thanks to two dials, each located in the center of the foci
– The lead Genus is followed by 11 Genera (‘genera’ being the plural of ‘genus’) along the 8- shaped orbital path, like a kinetic sculpture. A rose window is formed by the Genera every 15 and 45 minutes, alternating between the upper and lower tracks of the 8, giving the watch a captivating and ever-changing face
– The precise minute is indicated by the small fixed, arrow-shaped index in the traditional 3 o’clock position

Case
Material: 18K white gold, rhodium plated
[18K ethical gold: Sourced through ethical gold supply chain, certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC)]
Cushion shaped, consisting of 24 components
Diameter: 43 mm on the dial side and 41.5 mm on the underside (slightly conical profile)
Thickness: 13.1 mm (including sapphire crystals)
18K gold crown featuring the brand name G-E-N-U-S debossed in high relief on the circumference for winding grip and the logo symbol engraved on the crown face
Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Case back fixed with gold screws has an anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Water resistant to 3 ATM (approximately 30 meters)

Straps (non-exotic leather)
Navy blue calfskin with “boot maker’s finish”, hand sewn (Leather strap sourced through ethical supply chain, with certified traceability)
Pin buckle in 18K white gold, engraved with the GENUS logo
18K gold folding clasp available upon request

Retail Price
CHF 288,500 – VAT not included (CHF 310’700 including VAT)

Edition
Limited edition of 8 pieces

Note: The GENUS GNS 1 is now competing under the ‘Mechanical Exception’ category in the 2019 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) award.

More details at www.genuswatches.swiss