The Storm Show Series was launched by Memorigin in 2017 to celebrate the release of – “The Storm Show 5D”, the Hong Kong musical based on the popular comic – “Wind and cloud” authored by Mr. Ma Wing Shing.
Mr. Ma Wing Shing participated on the watch design and the logo on the dial was designed by the Hong Kong based graphic designer Mr. Alan Chan.
This manual winding flying tourbillon timepiece features a simple elegant dial assembled with special sword and blade shape hands which used by the main characters in the original comics.
Technical details
The Storm Series with stainless steel case
Diameter: approx. 43mm
Frequency: 28,800 Oscillation/ Hour
155 pieces of subassembly module and 18 jewels
9 pieces of black diamond indexes
Exquisite embossment of “The Storm Show 5D” logo (Designed by Mr. Alan Chan)
Classic type of stainless steel case
Blade shaped hour hand
Sword shaped minute hand
The tourbillon located at 6 o’clock rotate at a speed of 60s for one circle
40hours power reserve
Flying Tourbillon
The balance wheel and the escapement system encircle the center of balance wheel
Both sides sapphire crystal
Alligator strap
The Storm Series with black PVD stainless steel case
Diameter: approx. 43mm
Frequency: 28,800 Oscillation/ Hour
155 pieces of subassembly module and 18 jewels
9 pieces of black diamond indexes
Exquisite embossment of “The Storm Show 5D” logo (Designed by Mr. Alan Chan)
Black PVD coated classic type of stainless steel case
Blade shaped hour hand
Sword shaped minute hand
The tourbillon located at 6 o’clock rotate at a speed of 60s for one circle
40hours power reserve
Flying Tourbillon
The balance wheel and the escapement system encircle the center of balance wheel
Both sides sapphire crystal
Alligator strap
This watch collection was created in collaboration with Qi Qi, an international supermodel born in Shanghai and grew up in Vienna, Austria. Sophia Kao (widely known as Qi Qi) is married to Hong Kong movie star Simon Yam Tat-wah. Now based in Hong Kong, Qi Qi has her own jewelry brand “QQM”, which was founded in 2017. In 2018, she also cooperated with Memorigin to design elegant tourbillon watches.
Qiqi was grown up in Vienna. During her childhood days, she used to visit the Vienna Woods forest along with the family. Inspired by her childhood memories, she imagined a fairy tale connecting the Vienna forest as the design concept for this Memorigin Qiqi Design Series.
On the skeleton dial, you can admire a little girl walking in the “forest wonderland”, where not only she meets deer and butterfly, but also two rabbits playing on a swing.
To create a sense of depth, the dial was made by 3 layers, 2 layers of Mother-of-pearl and 1 layer of metal. The dial was hand-painted by the brand’s professional craftsmen. The tourbillon located at 6 o’clock evokes the rising sun. The mushroom-shaped power reserve indicator at 9 o’ clock makes the design more fun.
The Memorigin Qiqi Design Series watch is available in red and green versions. For the green version, the case is decorated with tsavorites and diamonds, and natural sapphires are used as indexes.
For the red version, the case is fully covered by diamonds. Natural rubies are used as index. At 12 o’clock position, there is a 360-degree rotating heart-shaped decoration.
Technical details
Model: Memorigin Qiqi Design Series – the spring of Vienna, Emerald
Movement: ST0319
Movement diameter: 45 mm
Frequency: 28,800 Oscillation/Hour
Diamond quantity: 64 pcs (Total Weight: 1.50 Carat)
Emerald quantity: 44 pcs (Total Weight: 4.12 Carat)
Sapphire quantity: 13 pcs (Total Weight: 0.28 Carat)
Vienna Forest Enbossment on the dial
Flying tourbillon
193 pieces of subassembly module
27 jewels
The tourbillon located at 6 o’clock rotate at a speed of
60s for one circle.
80 hours power reserve
Twin mainspring barrel
Day / night indicator
Power reserve indicator
The balance wheel and the escapement system encircle
the center of balance wheel
Alligator Strap
Both sides sapphire crystal
Model: Memorigin Qiqi Design Series – the spring of Vienna, Ruby
Movement: ST0929
Movement diameter: 45 mm
Frequency: 28,800 Oscillation/Hour
Diamond quantity: 104 pieces(Total Weight: 3.04 Carat)
Ruby quantity: 11 pieces (Total Weight: 0.24 Carat)
Vienna Forest Enbossment on the dial
Flying tourbillon
193 pieces of subassembly module
27 jewels
The tourbillon located at 6 o’clock rotate at a speed of 60s for one circle
80 hours power reserve
Twin mainspring barrel
Day / night indicator
Power reserve indicator
The balance wheel and the escapement system encircle the center of balance wheel
Alligator Strap
Both sides sapphire crystal
Dragon and Phoenix is a spiritual and cultural symbol that represents auspiciousness and harmony. Dragon is considered to be ancestors of the Chinese people. It is the spirit of self-improvement, vigorous and promising. Phoenix represents great virtue, which carries heavy responsibilities and the kindness of the people. Dragon and Phoenix is the balance between Yin(陰) and Yang(陽), the contrary forces that give rise to each other. Therefore, it was widely used in palace culture and celebrations in China.
Memorigin, the Hong Kong Tourbillon watch brand, has combined the Chinese traditional carving craftsmanship and the excellent Western tourbillon watchmaking techniques to create “The harmony of Dragon and Phoenix / Long Feng He Ming” series.
With the background of heaven and earth on the dial, the Dragon that can control the forces of nature is swimming in the blue sea. The immortal phoenix is flying under the setting sun, which forms a harmonious scene. The 24K Gold Dragon is created with reference to the palace’s sculpture in the late Ming Dynasty and early Qing Dynasty.
The facial expressions, hair, claws and even scales are meticulously crafted. The eyes of dragon are made of Burmese rubies which sparkle brilliantly. It is coming up out of the sea and some of its body is driving out of the water. In order to make it more realistic, not only the dragon’s body under the water is sculpted sophisticatedly, but also the ripples spread across the sea, which makes the dragon, looks vivid and lively.
In the center of dial, a relief carved phoenix is wheeling in the sky, which outlines a peaceful picture. The delicate feather of the phoenix represents fine, soft and elegant. In order to create a perspective view, multi-layered mother-of-pearl and metal are used to create a skeleton dial. The Phoenix is embedded 0.5cm away from the dial. It presents a vivid picture of phoenix flying in the air, which shows the superlative craftsmanship.
Another highlight of this series is “Long Tu Zhu” (龍吐珠), the flaming pearl at 8 o’clock position. According to the myth, Dragon has been practicing for centuries in order to refine a pearl, the internal alchemy, in its body.
The pearl will be thrown out by the dragon whenever it absorbs the energy from nature. Memorigin recreates this legend and uses extremely sophisticated craftsmanship to hollow out the Akoya pearls from Japan, and fills several of the world’s most powerful high-tech tritium gas (H₃) tubes within a 5mm diameter pearl with 9 pieces of parts.
They provide superior brightness with a lifetime reaching 40 years. The pearl rotates at a speed of 60s for one circle with the flying tourbillon of a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour at 6 o’clock position. The endless rotation of the pearl implies the eternity and fortune.
The surface of the dome-typed 2.5D solid sapphire glass meets the visual requirements; you can enjoy the fun of traditional sculptures and high-end mechanical craftsmanship from both front and side of the watch. Memorigin has innovated a special automatic tourbillon movement for “The harmony of Dragon and Phoenix” series. Without affecting the operation of the tourbillon, the parts of watch were minimized. It makes the skeleton dial becomes more spacious as if flying in the sky.
Technical details
Model: The Harmony of Dragon and Phoenix
Case
Stainless steel case/Black PVD coated stainless steel case/Rose gold plated stainless steel case
Watch diameter: approx.42mm
Watch thickness: approx.13.3mm
Both sides sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5ATM
Movement
Flying tourbillon
215 pieces of subassembly module and 41 jewels
Frequency: 28800 Oscillation/Hour
Twin mainspring barrel
72 hours power reserve
The tourbillion located at 6 o’clock rotate at a speed of 60s for one circle
The pearl located at 8 o’clock rotate at a speed of 60s for one circle
Automatic, self-winding mechanism(Bi-directional winding)
Dial
Mother-of-pearl dial
18K gold dragon
Ruby from Burmese as dragon’s eye
5mm Japan Akoya pearl
Blue luminous dauphine hands
BOVET 1822 presents Battista Tourbillon in collaboration with Automobili Pininfarina to celebrate the launch of the world’s first pure electric hyper GT.
Created alongside Battista hyper GT, this beautifully-designed and sophisticated timepiece reflects design excellence and craftsmanship of BOVET 1822 and Automobili Pininfarina.
Battista hyper GT is the first automobile designed and completely assembled in Cambiano. And, Battista Tourbillon is the first timepiece born from the partnership between the two iconic houses.
The Automobili Pininfarina and BOVET design teams worked hand-in-hand in the creation of the Battista Tourbillon. With a focus on lightness and purity, the timepiece extends Battista’s design philosophy and brings it to another dimension.
Detailing inspired by Battista’s most characteristic design features can be found in every part of the timepiece, including the movement’s mechanical components. The exquisite craftsmanship of BOVET made it possible to design remarkable details that only the most skilled artisans can manufacture by hand.
Box sapphire crystals on both sides ensure that the inner beauty of this mechanical masterpiece can be enjoyed and admired, opening up the view of the movement visible from all sides.
In addition, the sapphire crystals are shaped at 12 and 6 o’clock to integrate the specially designed Vegan rubber straps. The process of manufacturing a timepiece at this level of complexity and quality is based around the highly skilled artisans from the house of BOVET.
The Battista Tourbillon features exquisite detailing inspired by the design language and features of the hyper-GT itself. Every element of the timepiece’s design has been crafted to reflect Automobili Pininfarina’s PURA design philosophy, which uses elegant simplicity and lightness as its starting point.
Combining many areas of expertise from both sides, the timepiece incorporates fresh and groundbreaking ideas within a classically-oriented watchmaking structure coupled with extraordinary finishing.
Inspiration for this came from Battista’s most recognizable features, like the exterior curves and design details. The Automobili Pininfarina and BOVET design teams took these shapes and created watch hands, bridges, dials, and other structures that connect the design of Battista to that of the timepiece.
The design features more fluid, Pininfarina-style shapes compared to traditional timepieces. As an example, the flying bridge above the two main dials of the timepiece has a subtle three-dimensionality that is unique and reflects the curves of the Battista.
Throughout the entire timepiece, references to Battista can be found. Subtle background characteristics such as the Triangolo pattern on the dials or the top of the Battista, reimagined in miniature and viewed through the sapphire crystal exhibition case back, marry the timepiece and the hypercar.
The timepiece features the Automobili Pininfarina and BOVET collaborative flags on the power-reserve dial, a signature Pininfarina detail that celebrates both companies’ heritage and future.
One of Battista’s most recognizable features, the E-Heart represents Automobili Pininfarina’s spirit for constant innovation. It is the physical element that, besides being functional, acts as an icon on Battista and all the following automobiles.
Where in Battista the E-Heart indicates the state of charging, in the Battista Tourbillon the E Heart-shaped aperture of the Big Date on the front, and on the back showing BOVET’s patented differential winding mechanism; the mechanism that makes rewinding the timepiece for a full 10 day of power reserve easier and quicker.
The Battista Tourbillon truly represents the pinnacle of haute horlogerie. From the exquisite details and finishing of each and every component to the utmost complexity of the movement, the timepiece is a showcase of high watchmaking at its finest. Each element, whether functional or decorative, is designed to represent the shared values of Automobili Pininfarina and BOVET.
The construction of the Battista Tourbillon results in a highly three-dimensional appearance, with each part of the movement and its complications clearly visible both from the face of the timepiece as well as through the exhibition case back and the exposed sides. The 45.6-millimeter case consists of two large sapphire crystals, enhancing the lightness and purity of the design.
The two-tone blue dials on the face of the timepiece, for the first time in the almost 200-year history of BOVET, are asymmetrical, featuring Battista’s Triangolo pattern and shaded from light to dark blue, while together forming the shape of the number “90,” a reference to the Battista Anniversario and Pininfarina’s 90-year heritage.
On the power-reserve dial on the left, the famous Pininfarina collaborative flags icon can be found, with the “F” for Pininfarina on the left and the Lotus Flower for BOVET on the right.
Further references to Battista’s design can be found throughout the face of the timepiece. Above the two main dials, the flying bridge resembles Battista’s curves, and the “V” in BOVET, while the tourbillon cage is inspired by its Impulso wheels of the Battista with their center-lock technology. The hands of the timepiece and the hour-indication ring are a reference to the curves of Battista’s exterior.
Through the exhibition case back, the main structure of the movement can be admired, which is an abstract representation of Battista’s curves that wrap around the teardrop shaped Goccia roof like a clamshell. The two-tone coloring of the bridges supports this reference to Battista.
The fine detailing in Iconica Blu is combined with traditional finishing such as Côtes de Genève, angling, and polishing. In addition, Super-LumiNova has been generously applied to all the hands, including the seconds indication structure on the top of the tourbillon cage, the ring underneath the tourbillon, as well as the hand of the power reserve, the indices, and even the Big Date display.
Finally, the signature of Battista “Pinin” Farina, the legendary designer who started it all, graces the dial above the date display.
The Battista Tourbillon features a brand-new movement using Bovet’s patented double face tourbillon, running at 18,000 vibrations per hour, with an incredible 10-day power reserve with just a single barrel. This movement was created specifically for the Battista Tourbillon, following the design input from Automobili Pininfarina.
Developing this new movement, placing the hour and minute hands in the center, adding a grand date, and redesigning the tourbillon cage was done entirely in-house by BOVET, working closely with the APF design team.
The patented two-sided flying tourbillon is attached at the center of its axis, and the weight distribution of the escapement and balance-spring drastically reduces the lever-arm effect and friction, another example of the high precision and complexity of this movement.
The miniaturization of the winding mechanism resulted in a second patent — a mechanical watch with 10-days of power reserve would typically require twice as many turns of the crown to wind; however, the exclusive winding system in the Battista Tourbillon and its spherical differential halves this number.
The hair spring and the regulating organ of this new tourbillon movement are manufactured in-house – BOVET 1822 is one of only a handful of companies in the world that can produce its own hair springs and escapements.
Both houses emphasize the importance of hand craftsmanship in their products. At BOVET 1822, in combination with the most modern manufacturing methods, an artisan hand-finishes every component throughout the production process, whether it is polishing, angling, teethcutting, hardening, engraving, or decorating. And, at the end of the process, each and every timepiece is assembled, by hand, by master watchmakers.
Likewise, each Battista hyper GT is meticulously hand-finished at Automobili Pininfarina’s bespoke facility in Cambiano, Italy, with every element of the car the driver and passenger interacts with impeccably detailed by a team of experienced and passionate artisans. Every client specifying a Battista is invited into the Automobili Pininfarina family to work with the design and engineering teams to create their personal, perfect Battista.
Although its case measures 45.6mm diameter, the Battista Tourbillon is surprisingly light weight. The configuration of the re-designed BOVET bow at the 12 0’clock positions makes it possible for the timepiece to fit just about any size of wrist.
And, thanks to the skeletonized structures of the movement itself and the sapphire crystals on both sides, the Battista is thin and extremely comfortable. The flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, in perpetual motion thanks to its astounding 10- day power reserve, is mesmerizing and a key point of focus when checking the time. The big date on the right-hand dial keeps you on schedule, and it is easily set thanks to a corrector on the side of the case.
The Battista pure-electric hyper GT also combines the sustainable luxury concepts envisaged by both firms.
In the Battista hyper GT, new methodologies have been introduced for tanning seat leather with olive leaves, recycling materials throughout the production process, and creating innovative new materials by combining off-cuts of leather and wood.
Mechanical timepieces are by their very nature sustainable. In addition, the BOVET 1822 manufacturing processes have been reconfigured to capture and recycle any and all waste, including metal, oils, treatments, and other materials.
With the Battista Tourbillon, the decision was to not use alligator leather straps, but instead a new two-tone rubber strap was designed and produced that is 100% Vegan.
About Automobili Pininfarina
Automobili Pininfarina is based in operational headquarters in Munich, Germany, with a team of experienced automotive executives from luxury and premium car brands. Designed, engineered and produced by hand in Italy, the Battista hyper GT and all future models will be sold and serviced in all major global markets under the brand name Pininfarina. The new company aims to be the most sustainable luxury car brand in the world.
The company is a 100 per cent Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd investment and has been named Automobili Pininfarina following the signing of a trademark license agreement between Pininfarina S.p.A. and Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd. Pininfarina S.p.A. will take an influential role in supporting design and production capacities based on their unique 90-year experience of producing many of the world’s most iconic cars.
The Automobili Pininfarina Battista
The Battista is be the most powerful car ever designed and built in Italy and it will deliver a level of performance that is unachievable today in any road legal sports car featuring internal combustion engine technology. Faster than a current Formula 1 race car in its 0 -100 km/h sub-two second sprint, and with more than 1,900 hp and 2,300 Nm torque on tap, the Battista will combine extreme engineering and technology in a zero emissions package.
The Battista’s 120 kWh battery provides power to four electric motors – one at each wheel – with a simulated WLTP range of over 500 km (310 miles) on a single charge. No more than 150 Battistas will be individually hand-crafted at the Pininfarina SpA atelier in Cambiano, Italy.
Technical details
Model: BOVET Battista Tourbillon
Reference Number TPINBA.001/XX/001
Edition
Limited edition to 30 timepieces in Polished Titanium, 30 in Red Gold and 30 in Platinum
Case
Type: Pininfarina
Diameter: 45.60mm
Thickness: 11.95mm
Material: Grade 5 Titanium and sapphire crystal
Strap: Rubber bi-color
Buckle: Titanium pin buckle
Water resistance: 30m
Movement
Calibre 16BM01TVGD
Type: Hand wound mechanical Haute Horlogerie tourbillon movement
Diameter: 16 ½ ‘’’
Frequency: 18,000 v/h
Power reserve: 10 days, single barrel
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds on double-sides flying tourbillon, big date, power reserve indicator
Dial
Two asymmetrical blue dials forming 90 (for the Anniversary of Pininfarina), blued hour and minutes hands
Components
453 – including 400 components for the movement
Patents
Spherical winding
Three-dimensional toothing with multiple gearing
Double face tourbillon
After a “year off”, the prestigious Monaco Yacht Show took place from 28th September to 1st October 2021. To mark this milestone event, Ulysse Nardin, the Show’s official sponsor for over 10 years, launched two new limited editions of its DIVER and MARINE Mega yacht watches. Both timepieces are inspired by the Ocean and enhanced with new colors.
Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph 44mm Monaco Yacht Show Limited Edition
Ulysse Nardin DIVER is one of the most reliable and contemporary diving watches on the market. The new Diver Chronograph Monaco Yacht Show Limited Edition is available in only 100 pieces. It has a sapphire caseback and is driven by the Manufacture UN-150 automatic movement with silicium and a 48- hour power reserve.
The model is also adorned with touches of red: from the bezel joint and the seconds hand, to the hands on the small counters and the date. Also, the “MONACO YACHT SHOW” signature is featured under the Ulysse Nardin logo. The case, the bezel and the UN element are made of titanium and the bezel is coated with rubber.
This model has all the features of a diver’s watch: ultra-resistant sapphire crystal, screw-down crown, Super Luminova on the 0, rotating inverted bezel for optimal readability, and water resistant down to 300 meters. There are several strap options: rubber, metal or fabric with a Velcro fastener.
Ulysse Nardin Marine Mega Yacht Watch 44mm Limited Edition 5N Rose Gold
Built in the same spirit as a luxury mega yacht, the new Marine Mega Yacht watch, crafted in pink gold, is regulated by a flying tourbillon equipped with a cage modelled on a latest-generation ship’s propeller.
Intimately linked to the concept of the mega yacht, this timepiece displays on its 3D “grand feu” enamel dial, reminiscent of a ship’s bow plowing its way through the ocean waves, not only the time, but also a precise representation of the Moon with an ultra-detailed surface, a sophisticated tide indicator across its width, together with an anchor raised by a chain attached to a windlass positioned at 12 o’clock indicating the power reserve.
With its diameter of 44mm, this instrument displays on its dial the streamlined bows of a luxury vessel. Magnificently reproduced in 3D, it seems to surface from a pool of white gold as though it was emerging from the mist, and cuts through a sea of “Grand Feu” Enamel on a wave of foam portrayed with astonishing realism.
To highlight its nautical world inspiration, the cage of the flying tourbillon is decorated with a propeller with its blades specially honed for latest- generation yachts.
The hands, with their design inspired by the venerable marine timepieces that the Manufacture has always supplied, move majestically, like the lamps of lighthouses or buoys floating on the horizon out at sea. The powerful mechanical movement of the watch has a diameter of 37 mm. This hand-wound calibre features 504 components. It guarantees a power reserve of 80 hours. It beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour, with the tourbillon rotating at 60 rotations per hour (or one rotation every 60 seconds).
Its first role is to provide an analog time display, giving a three- dimensional presentation of the phases of the Moon and containing a mechanism that displays the height of the tides in real time in relation to a specific location, in addition to indicating the seasonal coefficients, once the mechanism has been adjusted by the action of the winding-crown, the position of which is measured in a window opened up in the side of the watch-band in the same way as the screen of an exercise telegraph.
The anchor, fashioned in the form of a plowshare, is linked to the chain by the anchor ring (and which itself passes through a mooring chock which might have been thought to be entirely decorative). It moves in response to the movements of the winding-crown so as to indicate the power reserve.
An authentic miniature windlass is visible at 12 o’clock. Through the action of a set of conical wheels in contact with the winding mechanism of the barrel, the latter turns to simulate the raising of the anchor, even when the winding process has been fully completed.
The display of the phases of the Moon is made with the aid of a precise 3D reduced-size representation of Earth’s satellite, and which, in order to make a special impact, presents a surface reminiscent of the Moon’s actual surface by reproducing it through the use of an ultra-precise engraving. It is made up of two half-spheres, one treated in blue PVD (for the period of the new Moon) and the other rhodiumized (to simulate the illuminating effect of the Sun).
Its adjustment in relation to the annual calendar is undertaken through the winding-crown, once its indicator is in place on the telegraph window opened up in the side of the watch-band is placed on the corresponding indication(S: Set position for setting the hands/TM : Tide and Moon position/W : position for winding the movement).
In the intermediate position, the Moon phase and tide volume indication is regulated by turning the crown counter- clockwise (one turn of the crown represents four days), while in the clockwise direction the operator regulates the level of the tide depending on his location (one turn of the crown represents a 0. 25 turn of the disk, equivalent to 9.5 hours).
Limited to 30 pieces, the Marine Mega Yacht watch offers the possibility of engraving the name or motto in the plaque positioned on the side of the watch-band so as to make it truly unique.
Technical details
Model: Diver Chronograph Monaco Yacht Show Limited Edition
Movement
Caliber UN-150, Manufacture movement
Silicium escapement
Power reserve: 48 hours
Functions
Hours and minutes
Small seconds counter at 9 o’clock
Chronograph: minute counter at 3 o’clock, hour meter at 6 o’clock, central chronograph seconds hand
Case
Titanium, screw-down crown, screw-in safety push-buttons
Case back: Open case back with sapphire crystal
Diameter: 44 mm
Bezel: Inverted concave unidirectional rotating bezel
Water resistance: 300 m
Model: Marine Mega Yacht 5N Rose Gold Limited Edition, Reference 6312-305
Movement
UN-631 caliber
Power reserve: 80 hours
Functions
Power reserve with anchor and windlass linked to the winding mechanism
Flying tourbillon
Moon phase indication
Indicator of tidal coefficients and volumes
Dial
In-house enamel dial
Case
5N Rose Gold, polished
Case-back: Sapphire crystal displaying the movement inspired by a ship’s engine room
Diameter: 44 mm
Water resistance: 50 m
Strap
Fully-integrated strap made of navy blue alligator leather
During the GENEVA WATCH DAYS 2021 event, Bvlgari unveiled the Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon timepiece, which offers an original reading of time that is unique in the field of horological complications.
A metaphor inspired by the flight of the butterfly, the Papillon mechanism carries two independent retractable diamond-shaped hands positioned on a supporting disc. Each runs in turn along a 180-degree semi-circular minute track.
While the jumping hour appears in the window located at 12 o’clock, the minutes are indicated successively by each of the two hands. The first is positioned on the segment and thus signals the progression of the minutes, while the other remains in a retracted position throughout the path of the disc carrying them.
When the first hand reaches the 55th minute on the display segment, the other hand will gradually make a quarter turn to take a position parallel to the first on the 00-minute indication. The first hand will then move to the retracted position for the next 55 minutes.
The new Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon watch features a patented high-precision mechanism integrated into its mechanical heart with a 24-hour jumping hour display by means of a disc on a ceramic ball bearing via an aperture located at 12 o’clock. At the end of the 60 minutes indicated by one of the “butterfly” hands, the disc jumps to display the new time in the aperture.
The Papillon device consumes less energy than the traditional minutes display, which has a positive impact on the power reserve. This model is driven by a hand-wound mechanical Manufacture movement, Calibre BVL 332, entirely designed and assembled in the finest tradition by the master-watchmakers of the Manufacture Bulgari. It features a 60-hour power-reserve indication on the back of the rose gold Octo Roma case.
Technical details
Model: Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon, 103475
Movement
Mechanical hand-wound Manufacture movement, central flying tourbillon, Calibre BVL 332; minutes indication by means of patented device with two rose gold Papillon hands, 24-hour jumping hour display via a disc on a ceramic ball bearing, power-reserve indicator on the back; 21,600 vph (3Hz), 30 jewels; 60-hour power reserve; 330 components. Diameter: 34mm; thickness: 8.76mm.
Case
41mm rose gold case, transparent sapphire back, rose gold crown with black ceramic insert
Dial
Black matt dial with opening revealing the tourbillon cage and the Papillon system
Strap
Matt black alligator strap, rose gold folding clasp.
Swiss luxury watch manufacture Audemars Piguet has expanded their prestigious Royal Oak Offshore collection by unveiling the Self-winding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph. Heralding a new generation of redesigned Royal Oak Offshore models, this high complication watch features 43 mm diameter titanium case, with optimum ergonomics and sportier aesthetics.
Limited to 100 pieces, this technical and sophisticated creation incorporates two complex horological functions: Flyback chronograph and flying tourbillon. It houses a new interpretation of an in-house self-winding movement originally released in the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection. The open-worked dial reveals the movement architecture and its decorations.
While the flyback function enables to restart the chronograph without stopping or resetting it first, the flying tourbillon making its rotation at 6 o’clock compensates for the effect of gravity.
Adapted to the watch’s new diameter, Calibre 2967 presents a more sportive aesthetics attuned to the collection’s identity. Redesigned, the architectural titanium bridges adorned with black PVD coating incorporate titanium inserts for a two-tone contrast.
While the titanium bridges have been finished with satin-brushing and hand-polished angles, the inserts present an alternation of sandblasted and polished surfaces for more visual appeal. In addition, the bridges’ external chamfers have been meticulously polished to remove the black PVD coating to further the contrast of colours and textures.
The bridges also reveal part of the multi-layered movement’s two-tone components on both sides of the watch. Similarly, the flying tourbillon cage showcases the rhodium-toned balance wheel pulsating within. In addition to uncovering part of the gear train, the sapphire caseback presents the collection’s open-worked oscillating weight in 22-carat gold coated with black PVD. Both elegant and robust, this haute-horlogerie movement has an impressive power reserve of 65 hours.
Measuring 43mm diameter, the titanium case features larger polished chamfers on the edges, while the bezel and glare-proofed sapphire crystal have been vertically curved for a contemporary touch.
The black ceramics screw-locked crown and chronograph push-pieces also follow a refined curvature, while subtly echoing the movement’s grey and dark hues. The alternation of hand-polished chamfers and sandblasting finishing adorning the case and bezel also provides an impactful contrast.
Finished with circular satin-brushing, the titanium sapphire caseback boasts the engraving “Royal Oak Offshore Limited Edition of 100 Pieces.” Water resistant to 100 meters, this robust and masculine high-horology watch is perfectly suitable for sports activities.
Meticulously finished by hands, the dial side of the movement incorporates multiple layers. The two transparent chronograph counters, outlined with a black outer ring, offer the utmost view of the two-tone movement.
The movement’s dark hues are also illuminated by more assertive 18-carat white gold hands, a white transferred minute track on the black inner bezel, as well as applied rhodium-toned AP initials realised in galvanic growth, appearing without the long-form signature. Indicating the chronograph functions, the three red hands add a dramatic feel. It boasts the spectacular flying tourbillon complication at 6 o’ clock.
The watch incorporates the new interchangeable strap system complementing the latest Royal Oak Offshore models. Directly integrated into the case’s studs and buckle, this arrangement allow clients to change the straps and buckles of their new timepiece themselves with a quick click and release. The double-push system also grants optimum security when the watch is worn on the wrist.
The black interchangeable rubber strap adorning this high complication is endowed with a new aesthetics with redesigned grooves forming in the continuity of the studs. The watch also comes with an additional black hand-stitched “large square-scale alligator strap. The AP folding clasp in sandblasted titanium also offers a new ergonomic design.
The Royal Oak Offshore collection also presents an assortment of two elegant calfskin straps in beige or brown fitted with the interchangeable system. More rubber and alligator strap options will be released later this year.
Technical details
Model: Royal Oak Offshore Self-winding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph / 43 mm
Reference: 26622TI.GG.D002CA.01
Case
Sandblasted titanium case and bezel
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback
Black ceramic push-pieces and screw-locked crown
Sandblasted titanium push-piece guards and studs
Water-resistant to 100 m
Movement
Self-winding Manufacture Calibre 2967
Total diameter: 33.6 mm (15lignes)
Total thickness: 8.31 mm
Number of jewels: 40
Number of parts: 526
Minimum guaranteed power reserve: 65 h
Frequency of balance wheel:3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
Dial
Black inner bezel
Black chronograph counter rings
18-carat white gold hands
Strap
Interchangeable black rubber strap with sandblasted titanium folding clasp
Additional interchangeable black hand-stitched “large square-scale” alligator strap
Introduced in 2020, the Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two tourbillon by BOVET 1822 is an incredible expression of artisanal watchmaking, decorative arts, mechanical ingenuity, and innovation.
This year, the House of BOVET is presenting its contemporary interpretation with titanium cases in brilliant black Diamond Like Carbon (DLC) and Super-LumiNova dials.
Placed side-by-side with the original, the newest Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two is a completely new timepiece, modern and sporty, while still maintaining its high watchmaking excellence. This is a theme moving forward for the House of BOVET – using interesting materials, colors, treatments, and displays that modernize these intricate timepieces, while still emphasizing the artisanal nature of the Maison’s in-house production.
Speaking of in-house production, BOVET 1822’s processes greatly benefited from the incredible three-year collaboration with Rolls-Royce that resulted in the stunning pair of bespoke timepieces and the mounting system in the dashboard of the Boat Tail.
Like participation in Formula 1 provides a trickle-down of technology into an automaker’s passenger cars, the intense research, development, and testing (including crash testing) of the Boat Tail timepieces resulted in engineering and production gains that have impacted every aspect of BOVET’s manufacture. Every single collection has benefitted from this exchange of engineering and technology, including the brand Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two.
The Super-LumiNova coated dials, not just indices or markings but the entire dial surface, are available in Yellow, Blue, Salmon, Turquoise, Green, and Violet. Once charged, these dials really pop, showcasing the luminosity in a unique way.
Over the past few years, the House of BOVET has been integrating Super-LumiNova into its timepieces in unique ways – in the lunar surface of the moon phase, on the sunshine dials of various collections – but this is the first time that Super-LumiNova has been applied so strongly onto the dials, a true statement of modernity.
The Grade 5 titanium cases of these new Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two timepieces have been treated with brilliant black DLC that contrasts beautifully with the bright and vibrant dial colors.
The new Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two includes the patented flying tourbillon with ten days of power reserve, the patented accelerated rewinding system, the writing slope case and sapphire crystal aperture, the fine movement decoration, the big date display, and the two dials forming a horizontal number eight, which symbolizes luck, perfection, and infinity.
For exceptional legibility, the seconds’ display is carefully designed to be displayed by a Super-LumiNova-coated sub-dial. The arrow of the index hangs over the surface of the delicate circular dial showing the 60 seconds. The easy, precise readability offered by this display, even in the dark, is remarkable.
It is hard to imagine that a Super-LumiNova dial with such a diameter, hanging over the date disks, could allow for such a large date display. The space between the units’ disk and the hours’ disk is reduced to optimize readability, making it as large as possible for enhanced legibility.
The date correction can easily is performed simply by pressing down on the real sapphire cabochon crown. The rapid date corrector and iconic 12-o’clock positioning of the crown effectively avoids any accidental date correction.
The movement that drives this exceptional timepiece draws its energy from a single barrel that ensures more than ten days of power reserve, all while maintaining the balance wheel’s oscillations at 18,000 vph.
Finally, the power reserve of over ten days, provided by a single barrel, would require meticulous winding if not for the spherical differential winding system. The application of this ingenious mechanism and the multi-gear three-dimensional teeth of one of its pinions, have received two patents. Because of this differential winding system, the number of crown turns needed for full winding of the spring is halved without increasing friction and forces exerted on the gears.
The Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two limited edition (8 timepieces) is a modern interpretation of BOVET’s proprietary and patented flying tourbillon with a big date and lengthy power reserve. The Super-LumiNova-coated dials and black DLC titanium cases are a true 21st-century departure for BOVET.
Case
Type: Fleurier Diameter 44 mm
Material: Titanium DLC
Water resistance: 30 m
Movement
Caliber 17BM06-GD
Type: Hand-wound movement decorated with blackened Côtes de Genève
Diameter: 17’’’
Frequency: 18’000 v/h Power reserve 10 days, single barrel
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds on flying tourbillon, big date, power reserve indicator
Dials
Colored Super-LumiNova dials ; green, blue, yellow, purple, salmon Components 394 – including 356 components for the movement PATENTS Spherical winding Toothing with multiple gearing Double face tourbillon
This year, the House of Bovet 1822 is offering this spectacular timepiece with the iconic “writing slope” case in solid 18K red gold.
Featuring Bovet’s patented double-sided flying tourbillon, a second-time zone with a twenty-four city disc, a precision moon phase showing both hemispheres, and offering a full 5 days of power reserve, this timepiece has a completely different character in red gold compared to its original sapphire crystal case.
Subtler, perhaps more elegant, the Brainstorm Chapter Two in red gold manages to integrate high-watchmaking expertise, decorative arts, and innovation into this unprecedented gem of artisanal Haute Horlogerie.
The Brainstorm Chapter Two uses the emblematic writing slope case with an asymmetrical profile. The slope of its case and sapphire crystal allows the collector to view clearly and appreciate the display mechanisms that guarantee intuitive and increased readability. Concentric rollers, rotating domes, and three-dimensional hands are being used to express time in new ways.
The patent-protected design of this unique case opens up new horizons in terms of the architecture of the movements, by optimizing the volume which simultaneously increases the functionalities offered, the chronometry, the reliability, and the readability.
You will discover the complexity of BOVET’s watchmaking mechanics from a new angle where the decorative arts illuminate the third dimension in a vision previously unexplored.
The new caliber developed for the Brainstorm Chapter Two is entirely manufactured in the Bovet 1822 workshops. Perfect for a multi-time zone timepiece, BOVET control of the energy guarantees five days of power reserve with two barrels, with a frequency of 21,600 v/h for spectacular chronometry enhanced by the patented double-sided flying tourbillon.
A domed dial, available in a choice of colors (blue quartz, green quartz, blue aventurine, and bespoke options), displays the hours and minutes of local time in the upper part of the case. The seconds are read by an index fixed on the tourbillon itself, placed at 6 o’clock which makes a complete revolution, in 60 seconds. Finally, two rotating domes placed, respectively, at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock harmoniously complete the design.
The dome located at 3 o’clock displays a second time zone specifically developed for this timepiece and patented by the House. The names of the cities representing the 24 time zones are printed on the dome which makes a complete revolution in 24 hours.
A three-dimensional V-shaped hand allows the collector to select the displayed time zone. This clever and innovative combination, united with the dome, allows optimal readability, despite the reduced diameter of the entire display.
In addition to a second time zone display, this new display also offers the world time function, which allows the time in each of the 24 time zones to be read simultaneously, an intuitive indication that has never found a better justification than at this time of constant connectivity.
In perfect symmetry, the moon phase indicator is positioned at 9 o’clock and is also accomplished with a rotating dome. The lunar surface is engraved by hand before luminescent material is applied, also, by hand.
The two circular windows on top of the dome make it possible to read the age of the moon in the northern hemisphere or the southern hemisphere of the earth. The precision mechanism that drives this dome gives it an accuracy that requires a correction of one day every 127 years.
The domes of the second time zone and the moon phase rotate by the patented mechanism called the Radial Guidance System. Three rollers, in rubies adjustable by a micrometric screw, are arranged on the circumference of each dome. They ensure centering and the rotation minimizes friction and increases the chronometry and the power reserve of the timepiece.
The five days of the phenomenal autonomy of this combination of high complications are displayed by a linear indicator, visible through a window positioned subtly in the middle of the case between the two strap lugs at 12 o’clock.
Whether it is design or technical achievement, the resolutely innovative and modern character of the Brainstorm Chapter Two aligns itself perfectly with the two sides of BOVET: innovation and artisanal watchmaking, respecting the traditions which have made the House of Bovet a success since 1822.
The decorative arts, the hand finishing, and the hand-engraving are a standard of expression directed by the three-dimensional aspect of the movement and its case. Whether flat, inclined, convex, or vertical, all the surfaces that allow this are engraved by hand with the emblematic “broken glass” motif.
Polished pillars, translucent gems, and delicately satin steels contrast with dazzling elegance. At the back of the timepiece, the bridges are open-worked and engraved with a delicacy that respects the centuries-old tradition of the noblest expression of fine art watchmaking by BOVET 1822.
A total of only 60 movements will be produced for the Brainstorm Chapter Two.
The Récital 26 Brainstorm® Chapter Two is limited to five pieces in each declination, and the use of it for unique pieces is also possible.
Technical details
Model: Récital 26 Brainstorm® Chapter Two
Reference numbers
R26C2-002: 18K red gold case, blue quartz dial
R26C2-008: 18K red gold case, green quartz dial
R26C2-011: 18K red gold case, blue Aventurine glass dial
Edition
Limited Edition to 60 movements / including 30 sapphire cases, only and 5 timepieces in 18K red gold case per dial color
Case
Type: Dimier “writing slope” case
Diameter: 46 mm
Material: 18K red gold
Water resistance: 30m
Movement
Caliber 17DM06-DT
Type: Hand-wound movement
Diameter: 39 mm (17 1/4’’’)
Frequency: 21,600V/h
Power reserve: 5 days
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon, three-dimensional moon phase indicator World time with indexable second timezone with hemispherical city indicator
Dial
Convex in blue, in green quartz or aventurine glass dial
Bracelet
Double face full skin alligator with platinum thread stitching
Buckle: 18K red gold folding buckle
Guarantee
5 years
Patents
Double face flying tourbillon
Radial guidance mechanism system
Universal time display
After winning the Ladies’ Complication category at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2020, Swiss luxury watch brand Charles Girardier now expands its 1809 collection by introducing a new gent’s wristwatch.
Charles Girardier 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 mm, the first men’s version of the Mysterious Signature (Signature Mystérieuse) flying tourbillon, highlights most sophisticated craftsmanship techniques.
This masculine yet elegant watch with a refined style combines a grand feu enamel dial with a complex mechanical movement, itself combined with a miniature automaton: The initials C and G at 12 o’clock, animated by the Mysterious Signature, visually counterbalance the tourbillon at 6, always in motion and according to their own rhythm.
Blending history, watchmaking and exceptional artisanship, the 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 watch has a 41 mm diameter white gold case. It has a total thickness of 12.2 mm. The polished gadroons and satin-finished flanks create a contrast of textures that emphasizes its profile.
Following through on the curves of the case middle, the lugs are also satin-finished. The choice of 18K white gold for the whole, including the faceted dauphine hands, polished tourbillon cage and applied indices magically complements the cobalt blue of the grand feu enamel dial.
The dial of the 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 mm is made of cobalt blue grand feu enamel. The making of the dial begins with a base plate of solid gold, a material suitable for the finest enamels. It is shaped to accommodate the tourbillon at 6 o’clock and the Signature Mystérieuse at 12.
The balance of the surface is engraved with an exclusive chevron pattern. Then the painstaking process of applying the enamel begins. After each layer of enamel is applied, the enameller slides the dial into a kiln heated to no less than 800 degrees Celsius, so the enamel paste may vitrify. The operation is repeated a total of eight times. The final glaze is translucent. This layer of enamel is called the fondant. Its density and smooth texture create a dramatic impression of brilliance and depth.
The Charles Girardier 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 mm watch is equipped with the CG Calibre 1809. On the dial side, this movement boasts a flying tourbillon.
The sapphire crystal back of the 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 mm reveals its sophisticated haute horlogerie movement. Its substantial bridge, made of one piece, takes up almost two-thirds of the visible area. This is a legacy of the 18th century Charles Girardier movement design, adopted by the brand today with equally unusual finishes.
Instead of the traditional Côtes de Genève or satin finish, today’s Charles Girardier opts for a grenage, an entirely manual frosting technique that creates a matte surface by applying a silver powder with a brush. The other visible bridges, and in particular the one that holds the tourbillon from below, also show this graining.
The caseback side offers an unobstructed view of the movement’s rear side. That is because the CG Calibre 1809’s self-winding mechanism does without a central rotor. Indeed, the latter would hide mechanism. Winding is carried out by a ring-shaped mass, which circles the movement’s periphery and the height of which is the movement’s thickness.
The mechanism of the Signature Mystérieuse is based on a small oscillating weight, used not for winding but to power the automaton driving the initials C and G. This rotor lives in a setting of matte textures, polished bevels and blued screws.
One rotating component carries one initial, ‘half’ of the signature, while the other, the size of the minute hand and rotating independently, carries the second element. As the arm is set in motion, the two parts begin to rotate, occasionally aligning to reveal the secret of the mysterious signature. This system is the subject of a patent application.
This extra-ordinary movement was developed in partnership with Timeless Manufacture SA, a specialist of watchmaking components based in the Canton of Geneva. The CG Caliber 1809 is entirely manufactured in Switzerland.
Movement
Calibre CG 1809/06, mechanical with automatic winding by bidirectional peripheral mass, single ball bearing, one minute flying tourbillon regulator
Jewels: 32 rubies
Diameter: 30.6 mm, 13 1/2”
Thickness: 8.43 mm
Power reserve: 46 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz / 28,800 vph
Components: 308
Decoration: Garneted bridges, horizontal satin-finished and polished tourbillon bridge, polished tourbillon cage set with diamonds, sunray-brushed peripheral mass, beveled plate and bridges, blued screws
Dial
Grand feu enamel, white gold base with engraved chevron motif, cobalt blue enamel
‘Mysterious Signature’ in white gold with rose motif
Applied hour markers in 18K white gold
18ct white gold dauphine hands
Case
Material: White gold 18 K
Bezel: White gold, polished
Crown: White gold, etched and engraved
Diameter: 41 mm
Thickness: 12.2 mm
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective coating
Case back: Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 30 meters/100 feet
Strap
Material: Blue ribbon woven on traditional Jacquard loom
Fasteners: Interchangeable, Presto system
Buckle: Folding clasp, 18 K white gold
The Marine Torpilleur model, launched in 2017, is an archetype of Ulysse Nardin’s roots and history, joining the long line of illustrious Marine chronometers of the 19th century. Celebrating its 175th anniversary this year, the Swiss watch manufacture unveiled seven new models of the Marine Torpilleur during the Geneva Watch Days 2021.
These precision instruments all bear the codes of historical Marine Chronometers, such as the fluted bezel, roman numerals and the double counter. Each model, equipped with a silicium escapement, has a distinctive look and its own design, bearing the legacy and codes of the brand’s history.
Along with the Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel – the icon of the collection – these include the Panda, the Moonphase (white and blue versions), the Annual Chronograph (white and blue versions), and the Tourbillon Grand Feu Enamel black in rose gold.
The above mentioned watches are produced in limited editions and bear the signature “Chronometry since 1846” at 6o’clock on the small seconds counter and a lightened minutes circle compared to the core collection.
Set with an Alligator leather strap, they are all compatible with the R-strap, made from recycled fishing fishing nets.
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel
This new Marine Torpilleur watch has a magnificent Ulysse Nardin blue in-house enamelled dial made using the Grand Feu technique.
Thanks to the company’s collaboration with Donzé Cadrans, an independent enamelling workshop based in Le Locle, Switzerland, acquired by the manufacture in 2011, the manufacture has been able to constantly innovate and improve on this artisanal technique, which requires that over 90% of the process to be done by hand.
Ulysse Nardin masters this metier d’art, including the technique of Grand Feu enamel and cloisonné, in which a design is created by filling in a wire outline with colored enamels.
The Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel stainless steel watch with a blue Grand Feu enamel dial is limited to 175 pieces.
Technical details
References
1183-310LE-3AE-175/1A (with brown strap)
1183-310LE-3AE-175/1B (with blue strap)
Movement
Caliber UN-118 Manufacture, COSC automatic movement
Balance spring in Silicium
Escapement wheel& anchor in Diamonsil
260 components
50 jewels
Frequency: 4 Hz / oscillations 28’800 V/H
Power reserve: 60 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
Case
Stainless steel polished & satin-finish case / fluted bezel
Open sapphire case back
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 11.73 mm
Water resistance: 50 m
Dial
New blue Grand Feu enamel dial by Donzé Cadrans
Double counters with power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock and small seconds with date at 6 o’clock “Chronometry since 1846” signature on the small second counter
Rhodium-finish hands
Strap
Brown or blue alligator leather strap Compatible with R-STRAP / rubber strap / metal bracelet
Stainless steel deployant buckle
Limited edition
175 pieces
Price
10’900 CHF / 10’000 € / 11’500 $
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Panda
The Marine Torpilleur Panda model, with two small dark blue dials within the dial (one that contains the power reserve indicator and one that houses the second hand and date) is a unique design at Ulysse Nardin.
It is for the first time that the manufacture has used this design. The varnished Panda dial with rhodium-finished hands bears the insignia “Chronometry since 1846” on the bottom ring that houses the seconds hand. It uses Silicium and DIAMonSIL technology and runs thanks to the UN-118 movement.
Limited to 300 pieces only, the 42mm diameter Marine Torpilleur Panda comes with a choice of a brown or blue leather alligator strap, metal bracelet, a rubber strap or an R-Strap.
Technical details
Reference: 1183-310LE-0A-175/1A (Brown strap)
Movement
CaliberUN-118 Manufacture, COSC automatic movement
Balance spring in Silicium
Escapement wheel& anchor in Diamonsil
260 components
50 jewels
Frequency: 4 Hz / oscillations 28’800 V/H
Power reserve: 60 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
Case
Stainless steel polished & satin-finish case / fluted bezel
Open sapphire case back
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 11.13 mm
Water resistance: 50 m
Dial
Varnished Panda dial
Double counters with power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock and small seconds with date at 6 o’clock
“Chronometry since 1846” signature on the small second counter
Rhodium-finish hands
Strap
Brown or blue alligator leather strap
Compatible with R-STRAP / rubber strap / metal bracelet
Stainless steel deployant buckle
First produced from 1936 to 1980, the Ulysse Nardin Chronograph Marine Torpilleur pocket watches of that time featured the ability to read time down to 1/10th of a second.
Used during the 1936 Berlin Olympics, this precision transformed timekeeping. These chronographs, employed by automobile clubs, geodesic commissions, and scientists on expeditions, were delivered with official certification that guaranteed their extreme precision.
The 2021 version includes a varnished white or a mat blue dial, and the UN-153 Manufacture movement, which is an evolution of the earlier UN-150 movement.
The white dial is adorned with silvered, small counters and the annual calendar, which sits at 9o’clock just above the signature, verifying that Ulysse Nardin has been the leader in “Chronometry since 1846”.
An invention by Ludwig Oechslin, the annual calendar system employed in the perpetual calendar model of 1996 has been improved, with all settings adjustable both forward and backward by using the crown, making it easy to set time and date.
Each dial version of the Marine Torpilleur Annual Chronograph is limited to 300 pieces.
Technical details
References
Blue version with brown strap: 1533-320LE-3A-175/1A
Blue version with blue strap: 1533-320LE-3A-175/1B
White version with brown strap: 1533-320LE-0A-175/1A
White version with blue strap: 1533-320LE-0A-175/1B
Movement
Caliber UN-153 Manufacture, automatic movement
Escapement wheel, balance spring & anchor in Silicium
406 components
53 jewels
Frequency: 4 Hz / oscillations 28’800 V/H
Power reserve: 52 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, small second, date
Chronograph (H-M-S) & annual calendar
Case
Stainless steel polished & satin-finish case
Fluted bezel
Open sapphire case back
Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 13.66 mm
Water resistance: 50 m
Dial
Blue mat PVD dial or white varnished dial with silvered small counters Chronograph counter at 3 o’clock
Annual calendar and small second at 9 o’clock
“Chronometry since 1846” signature (B) Rhodium-finish and beige colored hands or (W) blued and red hands
Strap
Brown or blue alligator leather strap
Compatible with R-STRAP
Stainless steel deployant buckle
Ulysse Nardin has been producing watches with moonphase display since the end of the 19th century. The moonphase is a complication that is at the heart of every astronomical instrument, as the phases of the moon control the tides, hence navigation.
The Marine Torpilleur Moonphase watch comes with either a blue or white dial. Each dial version is limited to 300 pieces.
Technical details
References
Blue version with blue strap: 1193-310LE-3A-175/1A
Blue version with brown strap: 1193-310LE-3A-175/1B
White version with blue strap: 1193-310LE-0A-175/1A
White version with brown strap: 1193-310LE-0A-175/1B
Movement
CaliberUN-119 Manufacture, COSC automatic movement
Balance spring in Silicium
Escapement wheel& anchor in Diamonsil
222 components
45 jewels
Frequency: 4 Hz / oscillations 28’800 V/H
Power reserve: 60 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, moonphase
Case
Stainless steel polished & satin-finish case / fluted bezel
Open sapphire case back
Diameter: 42 mm, height: 11.13 mm
Water resistance: 50 m
Dial
Blue sun-brushed PVD dial or white varnished dial
Double counters with power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, small seconds and moon disc at 6 o’clock
The star of the night is made of a multi-layer decal that brings a lot of elegance and reflections when reveal on the Starry Sky made of blue PVD.
“Chronometry since 1846” signature on the small second counter(B) Rhodium-finish hands or (W) blued hands
Strap
Brown or blue alligator leather strap
Compatible with R-STRAP / rubber strap / metal bracelet
Stainless steel deployant buckle
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu
The Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu in rose gold has an open sapphire caseback and is completed by a fluted bezel. The black Grand Feu enamel dial by Donzé Cadrans features a power reserve display at 12o’clock. The rose gold hands tell the time.
With a diameter of 42mm and water resistant to 50 meters, this timepiece comes with a black alligator strap. It is also compatible with a rubber strap or an R-Strap. The rose gold deployable buckle makes for ease in securing this timepiece.
The calibre UN-128 Constant manufacture and automatic movement also incorporates the flying tourbillon complication. This patented UN Constant Escapement Tourbillon won the Tourbillon Watch Prize at the annual 2015 GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) award ceremony.
The Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu is a limited edition of 175 pieces.
Technical details
Reference: 1282-310LE-2AE-175/1A
Movement
Caliber UN-128 Constant Manufacture, automatic movement
Escapement wheel, balance spring & anchor in Silicium
208 components
36 jewel
Frequency: 2.5 Hz / oscillations 18’000 V/H
Power reserve: 60 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes
Flying tourbillon with Ulysse Anchor Escapement (constant)/ Blades technology
Power reserve indicator
Case
Rose gold 5N polished & satin-finish case / fluted bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 11.93 mm
Open sapphire case back
Water resistance: 50 m
Dial
Black Grand Feu enamel dial by DonzéCadrans
Power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock
Rose gold-colored hands
Strap
Black alligator leather strap
Compatible with R-STRAP
Rubber strap
Rose gold 5N deployant buckle
This new addition to the ArtyA’s Complication Collection features a fully transparent crystal case in order to maximize the magic and beauty of the exclusive Double Barrel Manufacture Flying Tourbillon movement.
The Purity Tourbillon displays a technical inventiveness that combines a maverick style with visual clarity. A beautifully balanced architectural ensemble, the manually wound caliber features an over-sized flying tourbillon with a diameter of 17 mm which is at least 50% larger than most existing tourbillons.
Since the ArtyA Purity tourbillon beats at a rate of 4 HZ, extraordinary accuracy and greater stability are achieved through a much higher frequency than many other high-end Swiss tourbillons (usually 2 or 3HZ).
Equipped with a power-reserve of 70 hours, the two barrels connected in parallel, fuel the movement that operates the central hour and minute functions while the indication of the seconds is elegantly displayed on the flying tourbillon that rotates 360 degrees in 60 seconds.
Mounting the barrels in parallel reduces the thickness of the spring for more stable torque. But also improves the delta of the barrel spring curve, with an ideal ratio between power reserve, performance and regularity.
This complication timepiece comes with a free-sprung balance with variable inertia. This type of balance wheel represents the ultimate in innovation. It guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shocks and during movement assembly or disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time.
Fully transparent, the sapphire crystal case offers the breathtaking views of the skeletonized horological engine. Each part of the movement is delicately bevelled and polished by hand. The skeletonized bridges were subjected to intensive and complete validation tests to optimise their resistance capacities.
The innovative design of the case fully exploits the luminescent potentials of the Laboratory created corundum, a sapphire-like gem sharing its many unique qualities. The case is stubbornly scratch proof because of the remarkable hardness of sapphires – 9 on the Mohs Hardness Scale.
In November 2020, BOVET introduced its Sunshine Collection starting with a very limited edition of only 7 Brainstorm Chapter Two with a magnificent yellow dial.
The new Récital 26 Brainstorm® Chapter Two Sunshine is available in fully hand-engraved movements, all in the crafted monoblock Sapphire “Writing Slope” case (47.8 mm). It features a yellow dome-shaped dial, hand-coated by the BOVET artisans with a green Super-LumiNova® (SLN) that gives the dial a powder finishing to the surface.
The yellow dial accumulates light from the sun, transforming it into a vibrant green dial at dusk. The green color not only enhances the readability at night, it also adds an unexpected new dial to this spectacular timepiece. The green SLN treatment on the entire surface of the dome and its porosity add complexity to the pad printing process, making it one of the most challenging processes.
The Récital 26 Brainstorm® Chapter Two watch comes with a patented double-face flying tourbillon, a patented radial guidance system, a three dimensional moon phase with five days of power reserve, and a patented three-dimensional V-shaped needle that allows the collector to display the time zone of their choice.
This innovative combination imagined by Mr Raffy, united with the dome, allows for an intuitive Universal Time function, permitting each of the 24 time-zones to be read simultaneously.
Case
Type: Dimier « writing desk » case
Diameter: 47.80 mm
Material: Sapphire with titanium lugs and case-back
Bracelet: Yellow rubber strap
Buckle: 18K white gold folding buckle
Water resistance: 30m
Movement
Caliber 17DM06-DT
Type: Hand-wound movement
Diameter: 39 mm (17 1/4’’’)
Frequency: 21,600V/h
Power reserve: 5 days
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon, hemispherical moon phase indicator, Universal time with indexable second timezone with hemispherical city indicator
Dial
Convex in yellow with Super-LumiNova® (SLN)
Guarantee
5 years
Patents
Double face flying tourbillon Radial guidance mechanism system Universal Time indication
Limited edition
7 hand-engraved timepieces in the Sunshine Collection (with yellow dial)
Unveiled during the Watches and Wonders 2021 event, the Ulysse Nardin Blast Hourstriker is an innovative new striking watch.
In 2019, the Swiss Manufacture collaborated with French audio technology company Devialet and launched in the Classico Hourstriker Phantom. This year, with the Blast Hourstriker watch, the luxury Swiss brand has opted for more futuristic ways to reinterpret traditional watchmaking crafts.
In general, to generate the sound needed to mark the passing hours, the hammer strikes a wire gong wrapped around the movement to which it is attached. The acoustic wave spreads into the middle of the mechanism and is partly absorbed by it. In these conditions, the sound heard lacks power and its harmonics are partially muffled by the material of the timepiece.
For the Blast Hourstriker, Ulysse Nardin had to find the solutions for two challenges. The first one was to make the chiming mechanism visible on the dial side. The second challenge was to improve the quality/power output ratio.
To achieve these goals, Ulysse Nardin developed the UN-621 caliber. For ensuring optimal precision of Ulysse Nardin’s first in-house automatic striking manufacture movement, it is powered by a flying tourbillon; one that is equipped with a variable-inertia balance wheel, a silicon hairspring, anchor and escape wheel.
The most complex phase of the Blast Hourstriker’s development involved redesigning the entire kinematics of this 330-component striking caliber to allow this highly sophisticated mechanism, which is usually hidden from view, to be seen dial side.
When the striker is on, the mechanical ballet that makes the watch’s sound is visible on the hour and half hour, but even its occasional activation is just as beautiful.
By pressing the button located at 10 o’clock, the mechanism, driven by a specially dedicated barrel, is triggered. The hour rack and the inertia regulator start to turn; the hammers, visible in an opening made at 12 o’clock, hit the gong whose shape has been subtly worked to bypass the cage of the flying tourbillon.
Finally, to ensure that the Blast Hourstriker’s striking mechanism acoustic performance perfectly audible, this movement incorporates a titanium membrane developed in collaboration with Devialet, the French audio technology company with whom Ulysse Nardin worked on its torsion lever used in 2019’s Classico Hourstriker Phantom. Interestingly, one of whose co-founders of Devialet is a direct descendant of the Ulysse Nardin family.
As in the Classico Hourstriker Phantom, the torsion lever connects the heel of the gong to the fine membrane. In this construction, it is pressed against a grid to prevent it deforming in the event of extreme external pressure. This diaphragm is 3/10th of a millimetrer thick and treated with black DLC, which offers a large deformation area, which, when under load, moves a large volume of air, which improves the audibility of the sound produced.
The Blast line’s signature double X cut into the rose gold case back, also ensures the security of this sensitive Devialet membrane, which, once in action, basically acts like a hi-fi speaker– releasing and amplifying the gong’s sound.
To truly allow the sound of the Blast Hourstriker to resonate, the distinctive 45mm Blast case was given a black DLC titanium middle, capped with 5N18-kt rose gold, for improved acoustics.
To silence this imposing timepiece with the button located at 8 o’clock on the middle must be pressed and then the ‘ON’ or ‘OFF’ position at the tip of the function selector hand located at 8 o’clock checked.
The three straps that come with the Blast Hourstriker allow its different personalities to be explored. The black high-tech, waterproof velvet option emphasizes its aerodynamism, while the alligator brings its more sophisticated side to the fore. In addition, a rubber strap is also available for this model.
Movement
UN-621 Manufacture Caliber
Automatic tourbillon
Automatic Flying Tourbillon for the movement /Manual-winding for the chiming
Flying tourbillon, hours, minutes
Openwork movement on the dial side
Hour striker (hours and a half hours / hours on demand)
Devialet sound amplification system
330 components
23 jewels
Frequency: 4 Hz / 28,800 V/H
Power reserve: 60 hours
Case
Rose gold 5N
Black DLC titanium
Glass box: Sapphire glass
Diameter: 45 mm
Case-back: Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 30 m
German watch manufacture Moritz Grossmann unveils two new models, the HAMATIC VINTAGE and the TOURBILLON, both featuring handcrafted 750/000 rose gold hands for the first time. Framed by a rose gold case, the exquisite dials of the two models come in a deep black and beautifully accentuate the fine gold hands.
The HAMATIC Vintage with Rose Gold Lance Hands
Limited to eight pieces worldwide, the special edition HAMATIC Vintage features a ‘black-or’ dial with long, slender index hands in solid gold. The delicate tip of these hands lends a charming touch to the time display.
An elaborate manual process is used to create the exceptionally exquisite ‘black-or’ dial of the HAMATIC Vintage. Several layers of anthracite lacquer are applied to a base of precious German silver and polished until a subtle, gleaming, mirror-like surface emerges. The final touch involves a transparent layer to fix the expressive ‘black or’ dial in place.
The HAMATIC vintage represents a new interpretation of the self-winding hammer mechanism. This self-winding three-hand watch is not powered by a rotor, as is usually the case. Instead, a small pendulum in the shape of a hammer with a heavy gold hammer head takes on this essential role; the pendulum is constantly deflected by the movement of the wearer’s arm. This kinetic energy is transferred via the ratchet wheel to the mainspring in the barrel and winds the watch.
Inspired by models from the 19th century, the advantages of this powerful mechanism lie not only in the high torque and resultant optimisation of energy, but also in the open design, most notably the oval hammer body, which gives a fascinating view right into the very depths of the movement. All parts of the Calibre 106.0 are exquisitely finished in typical Grossmann fashion.
The TOURBILLON with Rose-Gold Rhombus Hands
This new eight-piece limited edition of the Grossmann TOURBILLON also boasts hands made of 750/000 rose gold. Shaped like an elongated rhombus and ending in a wafer-thin tip, the hands have the instrumental character that is the hallmark of the manufactory. Combined with the dark tone of the jet-black solid silver dial on which the hands rotate, the result is one of profound elegance.
The tourbillon has been a symbol of the finest watchmaking craftsmanship since the 18th century. The Moritz Grossmann manufactory presented its first hand-wound movement with the tourbillon in 2013, making its début in the BENU line.
The calibre 103.0 is an outstanding example of Glashütte’s contemporary interpretation of precision watchmaking. It boasts a long list of technical and aesthetic refinements, some of which have been patented. Most notable, however, is Grossmann’s spectacular three-minute tourbillon, which cannot fail to catch the eye at six o’clock. Taking its cue from Alfred Helwig, the flying tourbillon cage with v-shaped balance bridge is unusually large and reveals many fascinating details and ways in which they interact.
In line with Grossmann’s philosophy, the precision of a tourbillon also requires a stop-second. The intricate design of the cage with just two triangular posts paves the way for this additional complication. To halt the balance smoothly, the stop device must move past the triangular frame posts. It accomplishes this with the aid of an elastic brush made from human hair, which provides the most gentle and reliable solution.
This masterpiece of precision mechanics consists of 59 exquisitely crafted components and rotates counter-clockwise once every three minutes. Moritz Grossmann has used a creative trick to get around the dilemma posed by the mechanism covering the space for the minute display between 25 and 35 in the lower part of the dial: this time span is mirrored in a scale below the twelve and swept by the extension of the central minute hand. The width of the wafer-thin tips is calculated with the utmost accuracy, allowing the time to be read with precision.
Limited to eight pieces worldwide, both models come with a hand-sewn black alligator leather strap. The new models together with the entire collection are now available in the new Moritz Grossmann Online Boutique.
Technical details
HAMATIC Vintage Golden Hands, Reference: MG-003079
Movement
Manufactory calibre 106.0, automatic winding, regulated in five positions
Diameter: 36.4 mm, height: 5.15 mm
No. of parts: 312
Jewels: 38, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator: Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring
Balance diameter: 10.0 mm
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations/hour
Power reserve: 72 hours when fully wound
Functions
Hour and minute, small second with stop seconds
Operating elements
Crown in 750/000 gold for winding the watch and setting the time
Case
Three-part, in 750/000 gold
Diameter: 41.0 mm
Height: 11.35 mm
Crystal/display back: Sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on one side
Dial
‘Black-or’ shiny black, white Roman numerals
Hands: Handcrafted from 750/000 gold, polished
Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with prong buckle in 750/000 gold
Special features
Grossmann balance; click pawl in reduction gear
Adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw on cantilevered balance cock
Pillar movement with 2/3 plate and pillars made of untreated German silver, hand-engraved 2/3 plate and cantilevered balance cock
Wide, horizontal Glashütte ribbing, double-band snailing on the mainspring barrel
Raised gold chatons with pan-head screws
Separately removable clutch winding mechanism
Stop seconds for hand setting
Automatic winding with oscillating hammer, bidirectional click wheels
Idler with pawl clicks, manual yoke winder
Edition
Limited edition of 8 watches
TOURBILLON Gold Hands, Reference: MG-003077
Movement
Manufactory calibre 103.0, manual winding, regulated in five positions
Diameter: 38.4 mm, height: 7.1 mm
No. of parts: 245 (wheel train 186 / cage 59)
Jewels: 30 jewels, of which 4 in screwed gold chatons (drive train 17, cage 13)
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator: Grossmann three-minute tourbillon with stop seconds, shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws, suspended Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 terminal curve, Gustav Gerstenberger geometry
Cage diameter: 16.0 mm
Cage speed: 1 revolution in three minutes, counter-clockwise on the dial side
Balance diameter: 14.2 mm
Frequency: 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve: 72 hours when fully wound
Functions
Sweep minutes, off-center hours and seconds, subsidiary seconds with stop second, Grossmann manual winder with pusher
Operating elements
Crown in 750/000 gold to wind the watch and set the time, pusher in 750/000 gold to start the watch
Case
Three-part, in 750/000 gold
Diameter: 44.5 mm
Height: 13.9 mm
Crystal/display back: Sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on one side
Dial
Solid silver, three-parts, black with Arabic numerals
Hands: Manually crafted from 750/000 gold, polished
Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with solid butterfly clasp in 750/000 gold
Special features
Flying three-minute tourbillon with screw-secured driving wheel and V-shaped balance bridge (design patent pending)
Sweep minutes, off-centre hours and seconds with stop seconds
Replacement of the missing minute scale segment from 25 to 35 minutes with a separate scale swept by the extension of the minute hand on the opposite side (patented)
Stop seconds at the balance wheel rim with a pivoting fine-hair brush (patented)
Asymmetric-arm lever escapement with counterweight and lever banking pin
Grossmann balance with suspended balance spring, adjustable with poising screws in the rim
Newly developed mainspring barrel jewel bearing
Brake ring on the fourth-wheel arbor made of very hard, oily guaiacum
ARCAP train wheels
Grossmann winder with pusher to deactivate the handsetting mode and start the movement
Modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash
Pillar movement with 2/3 plate and frame pillars in untreated German silver
Hand-engraved 2/3 plate and tourbillon cock
Broad horizontal Glashütte ribbing
3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel
Raised gold chatons with pan-head screws
White sapphire bearing jewels
Separately removable clutch winding mechanism
Audemars Piguet presents three new Self-winding Flying Tourbillon variants in pink gold or titanium, all of which incorporate green hues.
Upholding Audemars Piguet’s reputation for making high complications, the Royal Oak Self-winding Flying Tourbillon showcases the talents of the Manufacture’s craftspeople with three new variants and much hand-finishing in evidence. Each option is presented in a 41mm case and is endowed with a green Tapisserie dial enriched with a sunburst pattern.
The first reference comes with an 18-carat pink gold case with matching hour-markers and hands. This model is limited to just 10 pieces. The second model, limited to 50 pieces, is crafted in full titanium.
The third model, limited to 15 pieces, combines a titanium case with an 18-carat white gold bezel set with 32 baguette-cut emeralds (~2.41 carats), each individually cut, faceted and set by hand. The emeralds’ verdant hues enhance the green colour of the Tapisserie dial, while offering a unique play of light.
Both titanium models incorporate white gold applied hour-makers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating and are complemented with a titanium bracelet.
All models are equipped with the self-winding Manufacture Calibre 2950, the latest generation of the Audemars Piguet flying tourbillon. Unlike a conventional tourbillon, a flying tourbillon eschews the upper bridge, affording views of the escapement, regulating organ and cage in motion.
Technical details
Model: Royal Oak Self-winding Flying Tourbillon / 41mm
Reference: 26534TI.OO.1220TI.01
Functions
Flying tourbillon, hours and minutes
Case
Titanium case
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback
Screw-locked crown
Water-resistant to 50 m
Dial
Green dial with “Evolutive Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating
Bracelet
Titanium bracelet with AP folding clasp
Movement
Self-winding Manufacture Calibre 2950
Total diameter: 30.9 mm (13¾ lignes)
Total thickness: 6.24 mm
Number of jewels: 27
Number of parts: 270
Minimum guaranteed power reserve: 65 hours
Frequency of balance wheel: 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
Model: Royal Oak Self-winding Flying Tourbillon / 41mm
Reference: 26532IC.EE.1220TI.01
Functions
Flying tourbillon, hours and minutes
Case
Titanium case
18-carat white gold bezel set with baguette-cut emeralds (~2.41 carats)
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback
Screw-locked crown
Water-resistant to 50 m
Dial
Green dial with “Evolutive Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet
Titanium bracelet with AP folding clasp
Movement
Self-winding Manufacture Calibre 2950
Total diameter: 30.9 mm (13¾ lignes)
Total thickness: 6.24 mm
Number of jewels: 27
Number of parts: 270
Minimum guaranteed power reserve: 65 hours
Frequency of balance wheel: 3Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
Model: Royal Oak Self-winding Flying Tourbillon / 41 mm
Reference: 26533OR.OO.1220OR.01
Functions
Flying tourbillon, hours and minutes
Case
18-carat pink gold case
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback
Screw-locked crown
Water-resistant to 50 m
Dial
Green dial with “Evolutive Tapisserie” pattern, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating
Bracelet
18-carat pink gold bracelet with AP folding clasp
Movement
Self-winding Manufacture Calibre 2950
Total diameter: 30.9 mm (13¾ lignes)
Total thickness: 6.24 mm
Number of jewels: 27
Number of parts: 270
Minimum guaranteed power reserve: 65 hours
Frequency of balance wheel: 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
In the year 2000 Chronoswiss unveiled the world’s first serially produced regulator tourbillon. Now the Lucerne based brand presents the Open Gear Tourbillon, a modern mechanical timekeeper with a unique regulator set-up, electric blue case and a hypnotising handmade guilloche decoration. Its half-skeletonised flying tourbillon is completely designed in-house, and it is exclusive to Chronoswiss watches.
The tourbillon Chronoswiss manufactured more than 20 years ago – Régulateur à Tourbillon – also had a guilloché dial. Now Chronoswiss unveils the C.303 – its own half-skeletonised tourbillon movement, and the guilloché is added by hand in its atelier in Lucerne.
With the Open Gear Tourbillon the ‘blue hour’ gets a whole new meaning. Using 10 different shades of the colour historically symbolising loyalty, strength, wisdom and trust, the calm display of the watch is contrasted especially by the energetic, almost aggressively electric blue CVD coating on the 17-part, stainless steel case.
The Trigono-shaped hands are blue lacquered, with Super-LumiNova inlays and tips. For the hour and five-minute indexes, generous amounts of blue-hued lume are combined with zirconium oxide into solid bricks and pillars that shine through the night.
The tourbillon may have roots stretching back to the end of the 18th century, but the Open Gear Tourbillon has everything you should expect from a modern mechanical timepiece.
The watch dial is an elaborate 42-part construction on two levels: the bottom level is hand-guilloched, whereas the upper level features skeletonised train wheel bridges and a funnel-like construction for the hour display. Other design details include all particular signifiers of a Chronoswiss watch: knurled bezel, onion crown and the hornback crocodile strap held in place with the patented Autobloc system.
There is also a hidden special engraving on the reverse side of the dial – for a unique melding of modern mechanical watchmaking and heritage, since the idea of a secret signature was in vogue around two centuries ago when the tourbillon was invented.
The Chronoswiss Open Gear Tourbillon is limited to 15 pieces.
Technical details
Model: Open Gear Tourbillon Reference
Reference: CH-3126-BLBL (Stainless steel case with blue CVD- coating, blue dial)
Case
Solid 17-piece, stainless steel case, CVD-coated with satin finish and polished
Bezel with partial knurling and curved
Double coated anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Screw-down case back with satin finish and sapphire crystal
Onion crown
Water resistance up to 10 bar
Screwed strap bars with patented Autobloc system
Measurements: Ø 44 mm, height 13.1 mm
Movement
Chronoswiss manufacture caliber C.303, flying tourbillon, semi-skeletonized, hand-wound
Diameter: Ø 32.8 mm
Jewels: 23
Shock protection: Incabloc
Frequency: 4 Hz., 28‘800 A/h
Power reserve: Approx. 60 hours
Special features
Exclusive movement with blue CVD coating, main plate with Côtes de Genève, skeletonized bridges with circular satin finish, balance wheel galvanic anthracite, skeletonized spring barrel, polished screws
Displays
Off-center hours at 12:00, central minutes, flying tourbillon at 6:00
Dial
Elaborate 42-part construction on several levels: bottom level with Côtes de Genève, middle level hand-guilloched and hand-engraved (“Atelier Lucerne” on reverse of dial), upper level featuring screwed-on skeletonized train wheel bridges and funnel-like construction for hour display; bar or cylinder shaped Super-LumiNova indexes
Hands
Lacquered blue, with Super-LumiNova inlays and tips, “Trigono” shape
Feuille shape; curved, rhodium-plated and diamond cut
Audemars Piguet has announced the release of a new complication in the Royal Oak Offshore collection. Limited to 100 pieces, the new self-winding timepiece combines flying tourbillon with flyback chronograph in a brand new case diameter of 43 mm. This new model paves the way for a new generation of redesigned Royal Oak Offshore models.
Although it retains the essence of the Royal Oak Offshore’s original characteristics, the case has evolved to offer optimum ergonomics and aesthetics while the dial reveals the muscular architecture of the new movement hand-finished to the nines. Complemented with the Manufacture’s new interchangeable strap system, this high complication brings together efficiency and technical sophistication.
The Royal Oak Offshore limited edition is powered by a new aesthetic interpretation of the Manufacture’s self-winding movement with flying tourbillon and flyback chronograph originally released in the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection. While the flyback function enables to restart the chronograph without stopping or resetting it first, the flying tourbillon making its rotation at 6 o’clock compensates for the effect of gravity.
Adapted to the watch’s new diameter, Calibre 2967 presents a more sportive aesthetics attuned to the collection’s identity. Redesigned, the architectural titanium bridges adorned with black PVD coating incorporate titanium inserts for a two-tone contrast. While the titanium bridges have been finished with satin-brushing and hand-polished angles, the inserts present an alternation of sandblasted and polished surfaces for more visual appeal.
In addition, the bridges’ external chamfers have been meticulously polished to remove the black PVD coating to further the contrast of colours and textures. The bridges also reveal part of the multi-layered movement’s two-tone components on both sides of the watch. Similarly, the flying tourbillon cage showcases the rhodium-toned balance wheel pulsating within. In addition to uncovering part of the gear train, the sapphire caseback presents the collection’s open-worked oscillating weight in 22-carat gold coated with black PVD.
With 65 hours of power reserve when not on the wrist and water-resistance to 100 metres, this complicated limited edition is fit for sporty adventures.
This Self-winding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph marks the beginning of a new generation of Royal Oak Offshore in 43 mm that combines the collection’s powerful identity with a more ergonomic design. The timepiece’s titanium case presents larger polished chamfers on the edges, while the bezel and glare-proofed sapphire crystal have been vertically curved for a contemporary touch.
The black ceramics screw-locked crown and chronograph push-pieces also follow a refined curvature, while subtly echoing the movement’s grey and dark hues. The alternation of hand-polished chamfers and sandblasting finishing adorning the case and bezel also provides an impactful contrast.
The titanium sapphire caseback, finished with circular satin-brushing, is engraved with “Royal Oak Offshore Limited Edition of 100 Pieces.”
In place of a traditional dial, the hand-finished architectural and multi-layered movement provides the ultimate backdrop for the dial aesthetics. The two transparent chronograph counters, outlined with a black outer ring, leave the view of the two-tone movement unencumbered.
The movement’s dark hues are also illuminated by more assertive 18-carat white gold hands, a white transferred minute track on the black inner bezel, as well as applied rhodium-toned AP initials realised in galvanic growth, appearing without the long-form signature. Last but not least, the red chronograph hands add a vivid touch of colour.
This limited timepiece is fitted with the new interchangeable strap system complementing the latest Royal Oak Offshore models. The interchangeability system has been directly integrated into the case’s studs and buckle.
The ease and efficiency of the new system will allow clients to change the straps and buckles of their new timepiece themselves with a quick click and release. The double-push system also grants optimum security when the watch is worn on the wrist.
The black interchangeable rubber strap adorning this high complication is endowed with a new aesthetics with redesigned grooves forming in the continuity of the studs. The watch also comes with an additional black hand-stitched “large square-scale alligator strap. The AP folding clasp in sandblasted titanium also offers a new ergonomic design.
The Royal Oak Offshore collection also presents an assortment of two elegant calfskin straps in beige or brown fitted with the interchangeable system. More rubber and alligator strap options will be released later this year.
Technical details
Model: Royal Oak Offshore Self-winding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph / 43 mm
Reference: 26622TI.GG.D002CA.01
Case
Sandblasted titanium case and bezel
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback
Black ceramic push-pieces and screw-locked crown
Sand-blasted titanium push-piece guards and studs
Water-resistant to 100 m
Movement
Self-winding Manufacture Calibre 2967
Total diameter: 33.6 mm (15 lignes)
Total thickness: 8.31 mm
Number of jewels: 40
Number of parts: 526
Minimum guaranteed power reserve: 65 h
Frequency of balance wheel: 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
On 10 April 2021, Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars revealed the first iteration of its Marvel Super Hero watch series, the Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther” Flying Tourbillon.
This limited edition of 250 pieces was revealed on April 10 during the brand’s virtual event “Audemars Piguet & Friends, Live Show from Los Angeles” in celebration of its new long-term collaboration with Marvel Entertainment.
The live event, which was publicly broadcast around the world, was hosted by stand-up comedian and actor Kevin Hart alongside Audemars Piguet’s Chief Executive Officer François-Henry Bennahmias, with LeBron James, Serena Williams, Ian Poulter, Anthony Joshua, Lu Han, Jon Gray and Mark Ronson in attendance.
The live show was accompanied by a dedicated auction to profit the long-term educational programme Audemars Piguet has established with non-profit organisations First Book and Ashoka, to support agents of change in low-income and historically excluded communities.
The auction was introduced by Kyle Zimmer – founder and CEO of First Book as well as Ashoka Board Member and Senior Fellow—and led by Michael Friedman, Head of Complications at Audemars Piguet, who worked in the past with leading auction houses including Christie’s, Sotheby’s and Antiquorum. Bidders from multiple countries competed for a chance to own one of four distinct auction lots – including a unique version of the Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther” Flying Tourbillon.
The sapphire crystal back of the 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 mm reveals its sophisticated haute horlogerie movement. Its substantial bridge, made of one piece, takes up almost two-thirds of the visible area. This is a legacy of the 18th century Charles Girardier movement design, adopted by the brand today with equally unusual finishes.
