Hanhart presents the new 417 ES Flyback series to mark its 140th anniversary. The watch is available in two case sizes with two dial options, each of which is equipped with a manual-winding flyback calibre with its integrated column wheel.
When Hanhart reissued the legendary 417 ES two years ago in a 42 mm stainless steel case, it marked the beginning of a great success story for Hanhart. Earlier this year, the brand released an additional version — the 417 ES 1954 — which, with its 39 mm case, is the same size as the historical watch.
The historic 417 ES, originally designed for pilots of the German Air Force, was equipped with “Temposchaltung”, as the flyback function is also called. The mechanism allows immediate measurement of a new timing interval by using the reset pusher. The new, first-class AMT5100 M calibre originates from Sellita’s manufacture AMT department. It controls the chronograph via column wheel and has a power reserve of at least 58 hours when fully wound.
In order to make the new 417 ES Flyback as versatile as possible, Hanhart is offering both 39 mm and 42 mm stainless-steel cases.
Apart from the size, there is only one technological difference between the 39 mm and 42 mm models: the 42 mm watch has a transparent sapphire crystal caseback revealing the new flyback calibre, while the 39 mm model is manufactured with an anti-magnetic case, which is resistant up to 16,000 A/m according to DIN 8309. All of the new timepieces are water-resistant up to 10 bar.
In addition to the technical development, the new 417 ES Flyback stands out visually from the previously launched versions. Each case size is available with both the white and black Panda dial or the black and white Reverse Panda dial.
Either of the two designs provides strong contrasts and perfect readability even in poor lighting conditions, thanks to use of Super-LumiNova C3.
Released to celebrate Hanhart’s 140th anniversary, the four new models of the 417 ES Flyback pay tribute to the brand’s history in producing precision chronographs. They are part of Hanhart’s permanent, non-limited collection and available now for € 2,390 incl.
Technical details
Hanhart 417 ES 1954 Flyback Panda and Reverse Panda 39
Case
Stainless steel, satined/polished
Diameter 39 mm, Height with glass 13.5 mm (11,55 mm without glass)
Crown with the historic Hanhart “h”
Fluted rotating bezel, continuously rotatable, with red marking
Anti-reflective convex sapphire glass
High-domed sapphire glass
Screwed-down stainless steel case back
Water resistant to 10 bar/10 ATM according to DIN 8310
Continuous serial number
Shockproof with Hanhart movement protection
Antimagnetic up to 16.000 A/m according to DIN 8309
Engraving of the historical logo on the case back
Dial and hands
Panda or Reverse Panda dial
Historical Logo
Super-LumiNova® Light Old Radium coated numerals and hand
Minute and Second hand bent at tip to prevent parallax errors
Movement
Column wheel flyback movement
Manual wound chronograph
Sellita AMT5100 M
Symmetrical button arrangement
28.800 A/h, 4 Hz, 23 jewels
Power reserve minimum 58 hours after full winding
Functions
Flyback
Small second
30-minute counter
Bicompax Chronograph with central stop-second
Strap
Black calfskin strap with white stitching and leather underlay
Alcantara on the inside
Pin-buckle with historical logo, Lug width 20 mm
Price
2,390.00 Euro incl. 19% German VAT
Hanhart 417 ES Flyback Panda and Reverse Panda 42
Case
Stainless steel, satined/polished
Diameter 42 mm, Height with glass 13.5 mm (11,55 mm without glass)
Crown with the historic Hanhart “h”
Fluted rotating bezel, continuously rotatable, with red marking
Anti-reflective convex sapphire glass
High-domed sapphire glass
Screwed-down stainless steel case back
Water resistant to 10 bar/10 ATM according to DIN 8310
Continuous serial number
See-through caseback with sapphire glass
Dial and hands
Panda or Reverse Panda dial
Historical Logo
Super-LumiNova® Light Old Radium coated numerals and hand
Minute and Second hand bent at tip to prevent parallax errors
Movement
Column wheel flyback movement
Manual wound chronograph
Sellita AMT5100 M
Symmetrical button arrangement
28.800 A/h, 4 Hz, 23 jewels
Power reserve minimum 58 hours after full winding
Functions
Flyback
Small second
30-minute counter
Bicompax Chronograph with central stop-second
Strap
Black calfskin strap with white stitching and leather underlay
Alcantara on the inside
Pin-buckle with historical logo, Lug width 21 mm
Patek Philippe has launched a new version of its Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph. Dressed in a stainless steel case, this new model (reference 5990/1A-011) comes with a new blue dial with a radiant sunburst finish and a subtle black gradation to the periphery.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 5990/1A-011 is equipped with the self-winding CH 28-520 C FUS movement, which can be admires through the sapphire crystal case-back. The case measures 40.5 mm in diameter.
This Nautilus watch offers flyback chronograph, Travel Time function (two time zones with two separate hour hands; the skeletonized hand shows home time) and an analog date at 12 o’clock which is synchronized with local time.
Water resistant to 120 meters, the new Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph is fitted with a steel bracelet with patented fold-over clasp with lockable adjustment system.
Technical details
Model: Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5990/1A-011
Movement
Caliber CH 28‑520 C FUS
Self-winding mechanical movement
Functions
Flyback chronograph
Central chronograph hand
60-minute counter
Two time zones: local and home time indication
Day/night indication for local time and home time in apertures
Date coupled with local time by hand
Case
Steel case
Screw-down crown
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 120 m
Case diameter (10 – 4 o’clock): 40.5 mm
Height: 12.53 mm
Dial
Sunburst blue with black-gradient rim, horizontally embossed, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating
Bracelet
Steel bracelet with patented fold-over clasp with lockable adjustment system
Patek Philippe presents Ref. 5935A-001, a stainless steel version of the self-winding World Time flyback chronograph.
Equipped with the automatic caliber CH 28-520 HU, Ref. 5935A-001 is the very first stainless steel reference of Patek Philippe’s World Time Flyback Chronograph watch.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe
Fusing vintage and sporty looks, this new model features a 41mm diameter case. The opaline dial with its shimmering rose gilt hue offers an inimitable vintage look.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe
The “carbon” motif in the center of the dial adds modern and dynamic touches to this complication watch. The elaborately finished self-winding movement can be admired through the sapphire crystal case-back.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe
The Patek Philippe World Time Flyback Chronograph Steel (ref. 5935A-001) comes with two calfskin straps – grained taupe and beige with a velvet-like nubuck finish. These straps are secured with stainless steel fold-over clasps.
Technical details
Model: Patek Philippe World Time Flyback Chronograph Steel, Ref. 5935A-001
Movement
Caliber CH 28‑520 HU
Self-winding mechanical movement
Functions
Flyback chronograph
Central chronograph hand
30-minute counter
World Time
24-hour and day/night indication for the 24 time zones
Dial
Rose-gilt opaline with “carbon” motif
Charcoal gray gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating
Case
Stainless Steel
Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 12.75 mm
Sapphire crystal glass
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30 m
The new variation of the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph juxtaposes 18-carat pink gold and black ceramic. Following in the footsteps of its predecessor unveiled in 2021, this new timepiece is limited to 50 pieces and combines contemporary design with ancestral know-how.
It comes in a two-tone black ceramic and 18-carat pink gold case that highlights the complex architecture of the collection along with the three-dimensional aesthetic of the movement.
With its contemporary design, black ceramic provides a blank canvas for the traditional skills of the Manufacture’s craftspeople. Each component is pre-polished and pre-satin-brushed before being painstakingly hand-finished with the brand’s trademark alternation of satin brushing and polished chamfers. These finishes can notably be admired on the model’s case middle, offering a fascinating interplay with the light.
The ultra-thin bezel, stylised lugs, crown and push-pieces are all crafted in 18-carat pink gold for a powerful and elegant contrast that harmoniously matches the ceramic and illuminates its dark aesthetic.
Echoing the two-tone case, the architectural movement is comprised of openworked bridges in both black and pink-gold tones, matching with the pink gold-toned balance wheel. The 18-carat white gold hands bring light into the heart of the movement, while the bridges and decorative elements feature 111 V-angles that have been sandblasted, satin-finished and polished by hand.
The decoration of the movement underlies the technical and extremely precise know-how of Audemars Piguet’s artisans. This meticulous work provides an interplay of shiny and matte finishes that create a captivating play with light reflections, bringing depth to the different levels of the movement.
The transparent chronograph counters and the flying tourbillon cage at six o’clock also reveal parts of the watch mechanism below, allowing the viewer to admire the finesse of the different decorative techniques. This timepiece has a water resistance of 20 metres.
Inside beats the Calibre 2952, Audemars Piguet’s latest automatic movement that is equipped with a hypnotic flying tourbillon and a contemporary flyback chronograph. This mechanism allows the chronograph to be reset and restarted with one push, without having to stop it first. This high-complication caliber is capable of delivering 65-hour power reserve.
The sapphire caseback reveals essential elements among the movement’s 479 components, including the 22-caratpink gold oscillating weight. The caseback also bears the engraving “Limited Edition of 50 Pieces.”
Technical details
Model: Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph/ 41 mm
Reference 26399NR.OO.D002KB.01
Movement
Selfwinding Calibre 2952
Total diameter: 32.6 mm (14½ lignes)
Total thickness: 8.22 mm
Number of parts: 479
Number of jewels: 40
Minimum power reserve guaranteed: 65h
Frequency of balance wheel: 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
Functions
Flying tourbillon, flyback chronograph, hours and minutes
Case
Black ceramic case middle
Bezel, lugs, push-pieces and crown in 18-caratpink gold
Case thickness: 13.8 mm
Case diameter: 41mm
Double-curved glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Glare-proofed sapphire caseback
Water-resistant to 20m
Dial
Black lacquered inner bezel, 18-carat white gold hands.
Strap
Black textured rubber-coated strap with 18-carat pink gold AP folding clasp
In 2022, Blancpain is focusing on introducing new variants of its Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe watches, playing with styles by means of red gold and grade 23 titanium.
Following the 1953 launch of the Fifty Fathoms, the first modern diver’s watch, Blancpain developed numerous variations of this vital timekeeping tool for divers.
The Bathyscaphe watch created in 1956 is undoubtedly one of the finest examples. The flyback chronograph joined the contemporary Bathyscaphe line in 2014 and was the first complication to equip Blancpain’s “urban diver” model.
The Manufacture is now returning its Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph model to centre-stage, housing one of the watch industry’s most renowned chronograph movements. Blancpain Calibre F385 is one of the latest in a line of Blancpain chronographs that have often been world firsts over the past 30 years.
This in-house movement draws on Blancpain’s refined vertical clutch design that ensures smooth engagement of the chronograph mechanism, eliminating the problem of the chronograph seconds hand making sudden, abrupt jumps. Control of starting, stopping and resetting the chronograph is done via a column wheel, enabling smooth and comfortable operation of the pushers.
The F385 beats at a frequency of 5 Hz, which is a considerable advantage in terms of timekeeping accuracy compared to lower frequencies. It has an inertia-regulated balance wheel with a silicon balance spring, whose geometry and lightness help ensure excellent chronometric performance.
Recently introduced into its collections by Blancpain, grade 23 titanium – also known as grade 5 ELI (extra low interstitials) – is the purest type of titanium available.
The red gold version has a blue dial while the grade 23 titanium features an anthracite dial. Whether the model is in red gold or titanium, the dial is graced with a sunburst pattern throughout and a snailed motif on the chronograph counters, designed to create a sense of depth and contrast.
The new Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph models are naturally framed by a unidirectional rotating bezel with a ceramic inlay, a signature of the contemporary Bathyscaphe line.
The blue inlay on the red gold version sports a glossy finish and a Ceragold™ time scale, while the anthracite inlay of the titanium watch is satin-brushed and features a Liquidmetal™ scale.
The cases of both watches measure 43 mm in diameter and are water resistant to 30 bar (approximately 300 m).
They are paired with a NATO or sailcloth strap matching the dial colour. The sail canvas strap of the red gold version comes with a choice of pin buckle or folding clasp, while the grade 23 titanium model is also available with a titanium bracelet.
Case
Material: Satin-brushed titanium/ Satin-brushed 18ct red gold
Diameter: 43.00 mm
Thickness: 14.90 mm
Water resistance: 300 meters
Sapphire crystal back
Lug width: 23mm
Movement
Calibre F385 (5HZ), self-winding movement
Diameter: 31.80 mm
Thickness: 6.65 mm
Power reserve: 50 hours
Jewels: 37
Number of components: 322
Functions
Flyback Chronograph, date and small seconds
Bezel
Titanium version: Unidirectional satin-brushed titanium bezel with ceramic insert and LiquidmetalTM hour-markers
Red gold version: Unidirectional satin-brushed 18ct red gold bezel with ceramic insert and CeragoldTM hour-markers
Dial
Titanium version: Sunburst anthracite dial
Red gold version: Sunburst blue dial
The historic tool watch brand Airain was revived by Dutch watch aficionado and entrepreneur Tom van Wijlick in 2020. It has soon introduced a re-edition of the legendary Type 20, one of the most sought-after military watches of all time.
Now, the brand is introducing Type 20 Vert Militaire, a new limited edition version featuring a green color theme. The designation ‘Vert Militaire’ is a reference to the brand’s French military history.
Based on the Airain Type 20 Re-Edition watch, this new reference takes its design inspiration from the original 1950s Type 20. It has a 39.5mm diameter case made of stainless steel. It is topped with a domed Hesalite crystal glass.
Its hand-wound mechanical movement is equipped with a hand-wound column wheel chronograph with flyback function. The dial features Arabic numeral hour-markers, a small seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock, and a 30-minute recorder at 3 o’clock.
The hands and hour-markers are filled with beige color Super-LumiNova to evoke the style of the original Type 20’s luminescent material.
The watch is equipped with a stainless steel count-down bezel that can be rotated bi-directionally. Secured with a screwed-in case back in steel, this model is water resistant up to 50 meters. The Airain Type 20 Vert Militaire watch is fitted on a 3-stripe green and cream nylon fabric NATO strap.
This special edition is available for order from 20 July 2022. The price is 2,314 Euros, and only 134 pieces will be produced. The Vert Militaire green edition will start shipping at the end of August.
Model: Airain Type 20 Vert Militaire Limited Edition
Reference: 421.481
Case
316L stainless steel case
Diameter: 39.5mm
Thickness: 10.85mm (without crystal)
47.7mm lug-to-lug width
Screwed in case back and bidirectional moving countdown bezel
Domed hesalite crystal with anti-scratch treatment, 3.92mm in height
Water resistance: 50m (5ATM) waterproof case
Movement
Manual-wind column wheel chronograph caliber AM1 with flyback complication
30 minute chronograph
24 jewels
Incabloc shock protection
60 hours power reserve
Functions
Hour, minute and small seconds at 9 o’clock
Central chronograph seconds and 30 minute recorder at 3 o’clock with flyback complication
Strap
3-stripe green and cream nylon fabric NATO strap with stainless steel buckle and fitted keepers
Buckle and keepers are brushed finished and third keeper is engraved with Airain logo
Lug width: 20mm
Available with a contemporary rubber strap for the first time, the new Alpine Eagle XL Chrono in Lucent Steel A223 comes with an Aletsch Blue or Pitch Black dial.
The new Alpine Eagle XL Chrono models feature a sporty and masculine extra-large 44 mm-diameter case forged from Lucent Steel A223, an innovative steel alloy developed by Chopard for its anti-allergenic properties, its robustness and its incomparable brilliance achieved through a meticulous recasting process.
The discreet right-hand pushers relating to the chronograph functions are subtly integrated on either side of the crown guards and preserve the collection’s characteristically harmonious shape and symmetry.
The Alpine Eagle XL Chrono is equipped with the Chopard 03.05-C caliber. Developed and assembled by the artisans in the Maison’s watchmaking workshops, it is one of the world’s most innovative chronograph movements. It has a 60-hour power reserve and features an elaborate design guaranteeing accurate adjustments and optimal use of the chronograph functions.
Equipped with a column wheel, Cal. 03.05-C is also enhanced by several technical innovations that have earned Chopard three patents.
First of all, it is equipped with a unidirectional gear drive system that prevents energy losses while ensuring rapid winding, a function much appreciated in the inherently energy-hungry chronograph category. In addition, its vertical clutch ensures accurate time-measurement starts. This chronograph calibre is also of the flyback variety, enabling smooth successive timing operations thanks to three pivoting hammers with elastic arms facilitating zero-setting of the counters.
Equipped with a stop-seconds function enabling accurate adjustments of the watch, the Chopard 0.305-C movement is chronometer-certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute.
Already available with an integrated metal bracelet and a leather option, the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono model treats itself to a new look with a rubber strap.
The multiple advantages of this material make it an ideal ally for sports chronographs subjected to the most extreme conditions: water-resistant, lastingly reliable, malleable and comfortable to wear, it gives the timepiece a particularly dynamic look.
In using rubber, the workshops of the Maison have preserved the elegance and identity of the Alpine Eagle by reprising the shape of the metal-link bracelet – slightly tapering with a raised central cap – that is an integral part of the collection’s DNA.
The material is different, while the identity and well-balanced proportions remain signature features of these new contemporary chronographs. Rubber also lends itself to colour, since the strap adapts to the blue or black dial of each of the two new Alpine Eagle XL Chrono models.
Chopard cultivates a longstanding tradition of sporty rubber straps. In 1995, the Maison’s workshops were among the first to adopt this material with its strong creative potential by reproducing the rubber treads of 1960s Dunlop tyres on the straps of its Mille Miglia chronograph collection. This trend that has been continuously nurtured by the Mille Miglia models has since spread widely across the watchmaking scene.
Drawing inspiration from the beauty of Nature, the collection remains loyal to the shade of its dial referring to the Aletsch glacier (the largest in Switzerland) for the blue version; and to the intense blackness of mountain nights when wild Nature reclaims its rights for the Pitch Black dial. The texture and sunburst pattern evoke an eagle’s iris.
The seconds hand with its arrow-shaped tip flies over a highly legible display punctuated by snailed counters. The hands and hour-markers are coated with Grade XI Super-LumiNova®, a treatment offering the advantage of retaining the same intensity over the years, while naturally more luminous than traditional Super-LumiNova®.
The tachymeter scale bearing discreet red 100, 160 and 240 graduations appears on the inner bezel ring. It is divided into four steps, with different intervals of 5, 10, 20 or 40 km/h per line. This arrangement facilitates reading the average speed measurements and contributes to the dial’s overall aesthetic dynamic.
Technical details
Model: Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono
References
Ref. 298609-3003 – in Lucent Steel A223 with Aletsch Blue dial
Ref. 298609-3004 – in Lucent Steel A223 with Pitch Black dial
Case
Material: Lucent Steel A223
Total diameter: 44.00 mm
Thickness: 13.15 mm
Crown in Lucent Steel A223 with compass rose 8 mm
Crown guards and pushers in Lucent Steel A223
Caseband in Lucent Steel A223
Bezel in Lucent Steel A223 with eight screws set at a tangent
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Exhibition case-back with sapphire crystal and Alpine Eagle logo
Water resistance: 100 metres
Movement
Mechanical self-winding movement Chopard 03.05-C
Integrated column-wheel chronograph mechanism
Number of components 310
Diameter 28.80 mm
Thickness 7.60 mm
Number of jewels 45
Frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve 60 hours
Annual balance with balance-spring featuring a flat terminal curve
Patented chronograph zero-resetting mechanism with pivoting hammers and elastic arms
Patented unidirectional gear drive
Patented vertical clutch system
Open-worked central rotor with tungsten alloy
Chronometer-certified by the COSC
Dial and hands
Brass dial stamped with an Aletsch Blue or Pitch Black sunburst pattern achieved by galvanic treatment and inspired by the eagle’s iris
Applied numerals and hour-markers, rhodium-plated and enhanced with Grade X1 Super-LumiNova®
Snailed Aletsch Blue or Pitch Black chronograph counters
Baton-type hours and minutes hands, rhodium-plated and enhanced with Grade X1 Super-LumiNova®
Rhodium-plated arrow-type seconds hand with eagle feather-shaped counterweight
Rhodium-plated red-tipped chronograph counter hands
Transferred white and red graduations on the tachymeter scale
Functions
Central hours, minutes and chronograph seconds
Semi-instantaneous minutes counter display
Semi-instantaneous date indication between 4 and 5 o’clock
Chronograph with flyback function
30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
12-hour counter at 9 o’clock
Small seconds at 6 o’clock
Tachymeter
Stop-seconds function
Strap and buckle
Blue or black rubber strap with titanium insert
Pin buckle in Lucent Steel A223
On the occasion of the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary, Audemars Piguet has released an array of new selfwinding hour, minute, second and date models in 37 mm as well as new 38 and 41 mm selfwinding chronographs, which will be launched throughout the year.
Although retaining the aesthetic codes of the original Royal Oak designed by Gérald Genta, these new references present slight evolutions in terms of case, bracelet and dial design.
These evolutions align with the brand’s continuous improvement approach which has enabled the Manufacture to consistently push further the limits of design and mastery across generations.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm with Stainless steel case, Pink gold bezel and Silver-toned Grande Tapisserie dial
In addition to welcoming new calibres, most of the new models are equipped with the dedicated Royal Oak “50-years” oscillating weight. Additional models in 41 and 34 mm will be available in the second half of 2022.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm with Stainless steel case and bezel, Grey dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern
The new selfwinding chronographs in 38 and 41 mm as well as the 37 mm selfwinding hour, minute, second and date models encompass a variety of materials and dial aesthetics as well as the new design evolution celebrating the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm with Stainless steel case and bezel, Light blue dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern
Paying tribute to the collection’s original aesthetics, while enhancing its ergonomics, the Manufacture has performed subtle changes on the Royal Oak case. The bevels adorning the top and the bottom of the case have been enlarged to enhance the play of light between the satin-finished and polished surfaces, while bestowing the watch with a slender aesthetic. For its part, the caseback has been slightly more integrated into the case middle to sit more comfortably on the wrist.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm with Stainless steel case and Black dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern
To accentuate the finesse of the new case design, the integrated bracelet’s first four links are now trapezoid in shape and no longer parallel. This more pronounced decrease in thickness brings forward the bracelet’s taper for more visual appeal. Furthermore, the links are thinner throughout the bracelet, and therefore lighter, offering added comfort and optimum ergonomics.
First introduced on Royal Oak models in gold a few years back, this evolved aesthetic appears for the first time on stainless steel and titanium references.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm with Pink gold case, diamond-set bezel and Silver-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern
The luminescent facetted hour-markers are part of the Royal Oak’s recognisable codes. This year, the Le Brassus artisans have harmonised the size of the hour-markers and hands while retaining their aesthetics to reinforce the coherence between the different models across the collection, regardless of diameter and material. The proportions of the hour-markers of the new selfwinding chronographs and selfwinding hour, minute, second and date timepieces have been standardised according to the different diameters.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38 mm with Pink gold case, Diamond-set Bezel and Silver-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern
In addition, the logo has been reworked. A gold Audemars Piguet signature endowed with a unique topography now replaces the applied AP monogram and the printed “AUDEMARS PIGUET” at 12 o’clock. The embossed signature adorning the new Royal Oak “anniversary” models was originally conceived for the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm with Pink gold case, Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern and Pink gold bracelet
Made of thin layers of 24-carat gold, the signature is achieved through a chemical process akin to 3D printing known as galvanic growth. Each letter is connected with links approximately the size of a hair and placed on the dial by hand with tiny legs almost invisible to the naked eye.
This method which required three years of development is difficult to achieve due to the signature’s length. For the new Royal Oak models, the challenge has been to develop a second signature size for the 34 and 37 mm novelties – the signature size of the new Royal Oak in 41 mm being the same as for the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet timepieces. The Manufacture’s engineers and artisans tested an array of variations once more before setting on final proportions.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm with Stainless steel case and Khaki green dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern
Lastly, the minute track, which was previously printed on the flat external zone, now appears directly onto the Tapisserie of all Royal Oak selfwinding hour, minute, second and date models for more visual appeal – a challenging process due to the unique topography of the guilloché dial.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38 mm with Pink gold case and Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern
Faithful to the aesthetic of the original model from 1972, numerous references across the Royal Oak collection now welcome the iconic Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 dial colour (“night blue, cloud 50”), combined with a Petite or Grande Tapisserie pattern.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm with Stainless steel case and bezel, Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern
The dial’s Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50hue was originally developed by Geneva-based dial maker Stern Frères. The blue colour was obtained by immersing each dial in a galvanic bath. While the formulation of the mixture is important, the duration and temperature are both crucial. If the artisan removes the dial too early, it comes out purple, if removed too late it turns black. A thin layer of varnish mixed with a few drops of black colour (n° 50) was then applied onto the dial to protect it.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm with Pink gold case, diamond-set bezel and Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern
The term “nuage” refers to the cloud effect the drop of black creates when it enters the protective liquid varnish. Today, the Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 hue is achieved internally through PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) to ensure a more homogeneous colour across the collection.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38 mm with Stainless steel case and Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern
The new references also celebrate another recognisable aesthetic feature of the Royal Oak: the guilloché Tapisserie dial. Most of the 2022 Royal Oak novelties in 34, 37, 38 and 41 mm are endowed with a Grande Tapisserie pattern achieved through a complex manufacturing process based on a rare know-how no longer taught in horology school.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38 mm with Stainless steel case and Grey dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern
Hundreds of small truncated pyramids with square bases are carved out on the dial’s thin metal plate by an old guilloché copying machine that reproduces the motif of a matrix. Tens of thousands of diamond shapes, whose four inner faces reflect the light, are simultaneously cut out in the thin grooves separating the squares in a seamless weave that creates a tapestry appearance. This process requires extreme dexterity and precision.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38 mm with Stainless steel case, Diamond-set bezel and Light blue dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern
The decision to complement the original Petite Tapisserie motif with a more generous, legible and extensive Tapisserie was taken in 1998. While the manufacturing technique remained the same, the bases of the truncated pyramids became twice as big, thus considerably reducing the number of pyramids from approximately 700 to 380 on a 39 mm Royal Oak “Jumbo” dial.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm with Stainless steel case with diamond-set bezel and Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern
Three Royal Oak models adorning the new Grande Tapisserie dial were presented a year later. Their success was such that this motif appeared on most of the Royal Oak models in 2000 to the point of outshining the Petite Tapisserie which completely vanished from the catalogue before returning in 2012 on the occasion of the Royal Oak’s 40th anniversary.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm with Pink gold case, diamond-set bezel and Khaki green dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern
The new Royal Oak “anniversary” timepieces are fitted with the dedicated oscillating weight in 22-carat gold that features the “50-years” logo and the engraved Audemars Piguet signature. For the occasion, the oscillating weight has been matched to the colour of each case and finished with an alternation of satin-finishing and polished chamfers.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm Pink Gold Case-back with Sapphire Crystal
The “50-years” oscillating weight will be fitted to the Royal Oak anniversary models endowed with the new design evolution throughout 2022, with the exception of the 38 mm chronographs.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38 mm pink gold case-back
The Royal Oak models endowed with the new design evolution are equipped with three different calibres, including a brand new one, Calibre 5900. This selfwinding hour, minute, second and date movement premiers this year on Royal Oak references in 37 mm, in replacement for Calibre 3120.
This new mechanism is thinner (3.9 mm vs 4.26 mm) than its predecessor and offers a higher frequency (4 Hz vs 3 Hz). It is also endowed with 60 hours of power reserve when not on the wrist.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm stainless steel case-back with sapphire crystal
In addition, Calibre 4401, first introduced on gold Royal Oak models in 2021, makes its debut this year on the new 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronographs in stainless steel.
This in-house integrated chronograph endowed with flyback function encompasses enhanced chronometry as well as an instantaneous date-change mechanism.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm with Stainless steel case and Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern
In addition, it features a column wheel and a vertical clutch system – a feat reserved to high-end chronographs due to the complexity of its components.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm with Stainless steel case and Silver-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern
The movement’s refined finishing, including Côtes de Genève, satin brushing, circular graining, circular satin and polished chamfers, can be admired through the sapphire caseback.
Lastly, Calibres 5900 and 4401, which power the 15550, 15551, 26240 and 26242 references, are both fitted with the dedicated anniversary oscillating weight.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm with Stainless steel case with diamond-set bezel and Light blue dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern
In constant dialogue with the world that inspires it, the Royal Oak has seen countless evolutions over the years and reached the status of icon. Launched in 1972, the Royal Oak designed by Gérald Genta, was available for the first four years in a unique stainless steel design, Model 5402.
In 1976, the first women’s Royal Oak designed by Jacqueline Dimier saw the light of day, marking the beginning of a collection. The following year, the collection expanded with gold models, new diameters and new calibres. From then on and in barely five years (1977–1981), 27 new models were created.
In 1978, the introduction of gemset dials and cases enabled new creative and refined developments. In 1980, the Manufacture launched its first non-guilloché Royal Oak dials, notably on feminine creations, thus offering new decorative possibilities. In 1992, the introduction of the sapphire caseback allowed Audemars Piguet to reveal the minute handiwork adorning its movement components. This turning point for the collection set a new trend still found on numerous references today.
Since 1976, the Royal Oak’s evolving process has been continuous. Only the essential aesthetic codes of the collection, such as the tonneau-shaped case, the octagonal bezel and the eight visible hexagonal screws have remained unchanged.
The evolution of the newly released models celebrating this anniversary year marks yet another milestone in the development of a collection that has crossed eras and trends. 50 years on, more than 500 versions have reinterpreted this iconoclast turned icon.
Technical details
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm
Movement
Selfwinding Calibre 5900
Total diameter: 26.2 mm (11½ lignes)
Total thickness: 3.9 mm
Number of jewels: 29
Number of parts: 186
Minimum power reserve guaranteed: 60 h
Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
“50-years” oscillating weight in rhodium-toned 22-carat pink gold.
Functions
Hours, minutes, centre seconds and date
Reference 15550SR.OO.1356SR.01
Case: Stainless steel case and 18-carat pink gold bezel, Glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, Screw-locked crown, Water-resistant to 50 m, Case thickness: 8.9 mm
Dial: Silver-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, Pink gold hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet with 18-carat pink gold studs and stainless steel AP folding clasp.
Reference 15550ST.OO.1356ST.01
Case: Stainless steel case and bezel, Glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, Screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m, Case thickness: 8.9 mm
Dial: Silver-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp
Reference 15550ST.OO.1356ST.02
Case: Stainless steel case and bezel, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 8.9 mm
Dial: “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 15550ST.OO.1356ST.03
Case: Stainless steel case and bezel, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 8.9 mm
Dial: Grey dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 15550ST.OO.1356ST.04
Case: Stainless steel case and bezel, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 8.9 mm
Dial: Light blue dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 15551ST.ZZ.1356ST.01
Case: Stainless steel case, bezel set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds(~0.92 carats), glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 8.9 mm
Dial: Light blue dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 15551ST.ZZ.1356ST.02
Case: Stainless steel case, bezel set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.92 carats), glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 8.9 mm
Dial: “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 15551ST.ZZ.1356ST.03
Case: Stainless steel case, bezel set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.92 carats), glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 8.9 mm
Dial: Grey dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 15551OR.ZZ.1356OR.01
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, bezel set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.92 carats), glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 8.9 mm
Dial: Silver-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: 18-carat pink gold bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 15551OR.ZZ.1356OR.02
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, bezel set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.92 carats), glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 8.9 mm
Dial: “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: 18-carat pink gold bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 15551OR.ZZ.1356OR.03
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, bezel set with 40-brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.92 carats), glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 8.9 mm
Dial: Khaki green dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38 mm
Movement
Selfwinding Calibre 2385
Total diameter: 26.2 mm (11 ½ lignes)
Total thickness: 5.5 mm
Number of jewels: 37
Number of parts: 304
Minimum power reserve guaranteed: 40 h
Frequency of balance wheel: 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
Functions
Chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds and date
Reference 26715ST.OO.1356ST.01
Case: Stainless steel case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 11 mm
Dial: “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26715ST.OO.1356ST.02
Case: Stainless steel case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 11 mm
Dial: Grey dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, silver-toned counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26715ST.ZZ.1356ST.01
Case: Stainless steel case, bezel set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.92 carats), glare-proofed sapphire crystal, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 11 mm
Dial: Light blue dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, silver-toned counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26715OR.OO.1356OR.01
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 11 mm
Dial: “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” counters, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating
Bracelet: 18-carat pink gold bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26715OR.ZZ.1356OR.01
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, bezel set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.92 carats), glare-proofed sapphire crystal, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 11 mm
Dial: Silver-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, silver-toned counters, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: 18-carat pink gold and AP folding clasp.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm
Movement
Selfwinding Calibre 4401
Total diameter: 32 mm (14lignes)
Total thickness: 6.8 mm
Number of jewels: 40
Number of parts: 381
Minimum power reserve guaranteed: 70 h
Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
“50-years” oscillating weight in rhodium-toned 22-carat pink gold.
Functions
Flyback chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds and date.
Reference 26240ST.OO.1320ST.01
Case: Stainless steel case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 12.4 mm
Dial: “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26240ST.OO.1320ST.02
Case: Stainless steel case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 12.4 mm
Dial: Black dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, black counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26240ST.OO.1320ST.03
Case: Stainless steel case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 12.4 mm
Dial: Silver-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, silver-toned counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26240ST.OO.1320ST.04
Case: Stainless steel case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 12.4 mm
Dial: Khaki green dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, khaki green counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26240OR.OO.1320OR.01
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 12.4 mm
Dial: “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” counters, pink gold hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: 18-carat pink gold bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26240OR.OO.1320OR.02
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 12.4 mm
Dial: Black dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, black counters, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: 18-carat pink gold bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26240OR.OO.1320OR.03
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 12.4 mm
Dial: Silver-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, silver-toned counters, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: 18-carat pink gold bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26240OR.OO.1320OR.04
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 12.4 mm
Dial: Khaki green dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, khaki green counters, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: 18-carat pink gold bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26240OR.OO.D315CR.01
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 12.4 mm
Dial: “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” counters, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Strap: Blue alligator strap with 18-carat pink gold AP triple-blade folding clasp.
Reference 26240OR.OO.D404CR.01
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness 12.4 mm
Dial: Khaki green dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, khaki green counters, 18-carat pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Strap: Khaki green alligator strap with 18-carat pink gold AP triple-blade folding clasp.
Reference 26240OR.OO.D002CR.01
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 12.4 mm
Dial: Black dial with “Grande Tapisserie” dial, black counters, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Strap: Black alligator strap with 18-carat pink gold AP triple-blade folding clasp.
Reference 26242OR.ZZ.1322OR.01
Case: 18-carat pink gold case set with brilliant-cut diamonds, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 12.4 mm
Dial: 18-carat pink gold dial set with brilliant-cut diamonds, pink-gold-toned counters, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: 18-carat pink gold bracelet set with brilliant-cut diamonds and AP folding clasp.
Blancpain has launched a new feminine version of its iconic Air Command Chronograph watch.
Feminine watches hold a special place in Blancpain’s watch range. Since the early 1930s, the Manufacture has tirelessly developed new movements and introduced innovations on women’s behalf.
Blancpain is no stranger to ladies’ chronographs and in 1998 became the first to introduce a flyback chronograph for women. The new Air Command 36.2 mm is a sportier and more adventurous interpretation of the ladies’ flyback chronograph.
The rare 1950s Blancpain chronograph that inspired the Air Command collection is naturally reflected in the vintage look of this new model.
The layout of the counters and tachymeter scale on the dial, as well as the shape of the luminescent hands and hour-markers, the piston-type chronograph pushers and the glass box-type sapphire crystal all evoke the original timepiece.
Exactly like authentic vintage aviation watches, the new Air Command offers two distinct timing modes: a flyback chronograph and a countdown bezel. This model is nonetheless firmly rooted in the 21st century.
The blue colour of the dial and the ceramic bezel insert endow it with a blend of modernity and elegance. The refinement continues with the sunburst and snailed dial finishes, as well as the alternating satin-brushed and polished finishing on the case.
Housed inside its 36.2 mm diameter is the F188B self-winding movement whose vertical clutch ensures stutter-free activation of the chronograph seconds hand, as well as smooth and optimal stop/start functions.
Equipped with a silicon balance-spring, the movement also features a column-wheel system guaranteeing a smooth feel when starting or ending a measurement and resetting the hands to zero.
The sapphire crystal case-back of the watch reveals the beauty of this high-end mechanism and its open-worked oscillating weight, adorned with traditional watchmaking finishes such as circular graining, bevelling and snailing.
Available in grade 23 titanium or in 18K red gold, the Air Command comes with a blue calf leather strap featuring white stitching.
Technical details
Model: Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph 36.2mm
Versions
AC03-12B40-63: With titanium case
AC03-36B40-63: With 18ct red gold case
Movement
Calibre F188B
Thickness: 5.50 mm
Diameter: 26.20 mm
Power-reserve: 40 hours
Jewels: 35
Components: 255
Functions
Hours and minutes
Flyback Chronograph
Case
Satin-brushed titanium or Satin-brushed 18ct red gold
Thickness: 11.50 mm
Diameter: 36.20 mm
Sapphire crystal back
Two-way rotating titanium or 18ct red gold bezel with blue ceramic insert
Interhorn space: 18.00 mm
Water-resistance: 3 bar
Dial
Sunburst blue dial
Super-LumiNova® hour-markers
Tachymeter scale
Audemars Piguet has expanded the Royal Oak Offshore 43 mm line by launching four new 18-carat white gold Self-winding Chronographs embellished with an array of brilliant or baguette-cut diamonds.
Among them, two timepieces are entirely finished with brilliant-cut diamonds. The stones illuminating the 18-carat white gold bezel and case provide an interesting play of light with the large polished bevels adorning both the bezel and case. The alternation of gem-setting and polished chamfers can also be admired on the curved push-piece guards.
The dial too is paved with brilliant-cut diamonds and complemented with assertive18-carat white gold hour-markers and hands filled with luminescent coating for optimum visibility in the dark.
The Royal Oak Offshore’s double glare-proofed sapphire crystal, which is curved from 6 to 12 o’clock to integrate the ergonomic curvature of the bezel, accentuates the dial’s unique play of light. The diamonds’ glittering effect is contrasted with black ceramic push-pieces and crown, the colour of which is echoed by the watch’s counters and inner bezel.
The two timepieces benefit from the Manufacture’s interchangeable strap system introduced last year. One of them is endowed with a white gold interchangeable bracelet fully paved with brilliant-cut diamonds – a first at Audemars Piguet.
Directly integrated into the case’s studs, the interchangeability system allows the wearer to change the bracelet with a quick click and release, while the double-push system grants optimum security when the watch is on the wrist. The model comes with a second black rubber strap fitted with a diamond-set white gold folding clasp for bolder contrasts.
The other timepiece is fitted on a black rubber interchangeable strap which furthers the watch’s two-tone aesthetic and comes with a second refined black alligator strap.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 mm collection also expands with two two-tone 18-carat white gold models set with baguette-cut diamonds for an elegant and sporty look.
The first model presents a white gold case finished with an alternation of satin-brushing and polished chamfers. The bezel is decorated with baguette-cut diamonds which seamlessly fit its slight ergonomic curvature. The watch is enhanced with a black dial sporting the Manufacture’s latest criss-cross Méga Tapisserie pattern introduced last year.
The pyramids of the stamped motif are finished with a satin effect. The black Méga Tapisserie is contrasted with silver-toned counters, white gold hour-markers and hands as well as an applied white gold AP monogram, all in tune with the white gold case.
The watch’s grey hues are contrasted with black ceramic push-pieces and crown as well as a corresponding rubber interchangeable strap fitted with a white gold folding clasp. The timepiece comes with a second black alligator strap for a more classic touch.
The second model boasts a case, crown and bezel covered with baguette-cut diamonds – all meticulously chosen and cut to adapt to the case’s ergonomic architecture. Similarly to the first model, the watch is complemented with a black Méga Tapisserie dial illuminated with silver-toned counters, as well as white gold hour-markers, hands and AP monogram at 12 o’clock.
The black rubber strap reinforces the watch’s two-tone aesthetic. The rubber strap of the model entirely set with baguette-cut diamonds is not interchangeable due to the baguette-cut setting on the case’s studs.
The new models are powered by the Manufacture’s integrated chronograph technology, Calibre 4401, first released in 2019 on the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection.
This self-winding chronograph movement is endowed with 70 hours of power reserve. It features a high-end column wheel and a flyback function that enables to instantaneously restart the chronograph without stopping or resetting it first.
Calibre 4401 is also equipped with a vertical clutch system that prevents hands from jumping when the chronograph is started or stopped, as well as a patented zero resetting mechanism ensuring that each one of the counter hands seamlessly resets to zero.
The sapphire caseback reveals the collection’s dedicated blackened 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight as well as components usually hidden from view such as the so-called dance of the chronograph hammers. Calibre 4401 is finished with refined decorations on the caseback side such as “Côte de Genève,” “traits tirés,” polished chamfers and circular graining.
The counters’ horizontal arrangement – with the hour counter located at 3 o’clock, the small seconds at 6 and the minute counter at 9 o’clock – provides optimum readability suitable to all occasions.
Technical details
Model: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph / 43 mm (new diamond-set versions in 18K white gold)
Movement
Selfwinding Calibre 4401
Total diameter: 32 mm (14 lignes)
Total thickness: 6.8mm
Number of jewels: 40
Number of parts: 381
Minimum power reserve guaranteed: 70h
Frequency of balance wheel: 4Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
Functions
Flyback chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds and date.
Reference 26423BC.ZZ.D002CA.01
Case
18-carat white gold case and bezel both set with brilliant-cut diamonds, double glareproofed sapphire crystal, glareproofed sapphire caseback, black ceramic push-pieces and screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 20 m.
Case thickness: 14.4 mm
Dial
18-carat white gold dial set with brilliant-cut diamonds, black counters, white gold applied hour-markers and hands with luminescent coating, black inner bezel.
Strap
Black rubber interchangeable strap with 18-carat white gold AP folding clasp set with brilliant-cut diamonds
Additional black alligator interchangeable strap
Setting
Dial set with 189 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total of ~0.96 carats.
Bezel set with 32 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total of ~2.21 carats.
Case and push-piece guards set with 138 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total of ~1.89 carats.
Studs set with 24 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total of ~0.48 carats.
Folding clasp set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total of ~0.29 carats.
In total: 423 brilliant-cut diamonds (~5.83 carats).
Reference 26423BC.ZZ.2100BC.01
Case
18-carat white gold case and bezel both set with brilliant-cut diamonds, double glareproofed sapphire crystal, glareproofed sapphire caseback, black ceramic push-pieces and screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 20 m.
Case thickness: 14.4 mm
Dial
18-carat white gold dial set with brilliant-cut diamonds, black counters, white gold applied hour-markers and hands with luminescent coating, black inner bezel.
Bracelet
18-carat white gold interchangeable bracelet set with brilliant-cut diamonds, 18-carat white gold AP folding clasp. Additional black rubber interchangeable strap and additional 18-carat white gold folding clasp set with brilliant-cut diamonds.
Setting
Dial set with 189 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total of ~0.96 carats.
Bezel set with 32 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total of ~2.21 carats.
Case and push-piece guards set with 138 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total of ~1.89 carats.
Studs set with 24 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total of ~0.48 carats.
Bracelet set with 907 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total of ~6.7 carats.
Folding clasp set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total of ~0.29 carats.
In total: 1330 brilliant-cut diamonds (~12.53 carats).
Reference 26424BC.ZZ.D002CA.01
Case
18-carat white gold case, white gold bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds, double glareproofed sapphire crystal, glareproofed sapphire caseback, black ceramic push-pieces and screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 100m.
Case thickness: 14.4 mm
Dial
Black dial with “Méga Tapisserie” pattern, silver-toned counters, white gold applied hour-markers and hands with luminescent coating, black inner bezel.
Strap
Black rubber interchangeable strap with 18-carat white gold AP folding clasp. Additional black alligator interchangeable strap.
Setting
Bezel set with 32 baguette-cut diamonds for a total of ~1.45 carats.
Reference 26425BC.ZZ.D002CA.01
Case
18-carat white gold case and white gold bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds, double glare-proofed sapphire crystal, glare-proofed sapphire caseback, black ceramic push-pieces, white gold screw-locked crown set with baguette-cut diamonds, water-resistant to 20 m.
Case thickness: 15.2 mm
Dial
Black dial with “Méga Tapisserie” pattern, silver-toned counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, black inner bezel.
Setting
Bezel set with 32 baguette-cut diamonds for a total of ~1.45 carats.
Case, push-piece guards and crown set with 68 baguette-cut diamonds for a total of ~7.69 carats.
Studs set with 12 baguette-cut diamonds for a total of ~0.49 carats.
Folding clasp set with 12 baguette-cut diamonds for a total of ~1.15 carats.
In total: 124 baguette-cut diamonds (~10.78 carats).
Strap
Black rubber strap with 18-carat white gold AP folding clasp set with baguette-cut diamonds.
Audemars Piguet has launched two new versions of the Royal Oak Self-winding Chronograph in 41 mm. To coincide with the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary, each reference benefits from the Manufacture’s latest design evolution debuting across the collection in 2022.
Executed in a choice of 18-carat white or yellow gold, the case and bracelet elegantly shimmer with Frosted Gold. Each model is enhanced by a Grande Tapisserie dial matched to the case’s colour and contrasted with black counters. Lastly, each timepiece is equipped with the Manufacture’s latest generation flyback chronograph movement, the self-winding Calibre 4401.
The two new 18-carat white or yellow gold AP Royal Oak Self-winding Chronograph watches shimmer with Frosted Gold. They adorn a grey or yellow-gold toned Grande Tapisserie dial matched to the case colour and enhanced with black counters.
To celebrate the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary, both the white and the yellow gold case, paired with matching integrated bracelets, encompass the model’s new design evolution which makes its debut this year and is simultaneously presented on many Royal Oak versions measuring 34, 37, 38 and 41 mm.
The case and bracelet are endowed with larger polished chamfers which engage with light more noticeably, thereby intensifying the sparkling interaction with the adjacent Frosted Gold finish. Audemars Piguet has also made subtle modifications to the sapphire caseback, improving its integration with the case to sit more comfortably on the wrist.
The model’s contrasting textures confer a shimmering sparkle – from the grained yet smooth expanses of Frosted Gold and polished chamfers adorning the case and bracelet to the guilloché Grande Tapisserie dial.
The richly textured appearance of the Frosted Gold employs a technique also known as the Florentine finish, produced in collaboration with Italian jewellery designer Carolina Bucci. The resultant “diamond-dust” effect is achieved by gently tapping the case and bracelet with a diamond-tipped tool. This artisanal process imbues the various surfaces with small indentations which exhibit a brilliant appearance similar to that of precious stones.
The colour of the case and bracelet determines the tone of the Grande Tapisserie dial. The three black counters positioned on the dial provide an elegant contrast with the adjacent grey or yellow gold toned hues, while the Royal Oak hands and hour-markers, filled with the luminescent coating, echo the respective dial colour.
The self-winding Calibre 4401 is fully integrated and features a column wheel and a flyback function. Unlike a regular chronograph, the flyback function allows the wearer to stop, reset and start the chronograph in one simple action. The column wheel works in collaboration with a vertical clutch system. When starting or stopping the chronograph, the hands respond accordingly without any hint of jumping.
Furthermore, the push-pieces feel smooth when pressed. A patented zero resetting mechanism ensures that each one of the counter hands instantaneously resets to zero. The movement is adorned with refined finishing, including Côtes de Genève, circular graining, circular satin and polished chamfers throughout. Visible through the sapphire caseback, these decorations further the two timepieces’ elegant aesthetic.
Initially, both versions of the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-winding Chronographs will be sold exclusively in Japan from May to July 2022. Thereafter, the models will be available globally from August 2022.
Technical details
Model: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph / 41 mm
Movement
Self-winding Calibre 4401
Total diameter: 32 mm (14lignes)
Total thickness: 6.8 mm
Number of parts: 381
Number of jewels: 40
Minimum power reserve guaranteed: 70 h
Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
Functions
Flyback chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds and date.
Case, dial and strap
Reference: 26240BC.GG.1324BC.01
Case
Hammered 18-carat white gold case
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Screw-locked crown
Water-resistant to 50m
Dial
Grey dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, black counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating
Bracelet
Hammered 18-carat white gold bracelet with AP folding clasp
Reference: 26240BA.GG.1324BA.01
Case
Hammered 18-carat yellow gold case
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Screw-locked crown
Water-resistant to 50m
Dial
Yellow-gold-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, black counters, yellow gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet
Hammered 18-carat yellow gold bracelet with AP folding clasp
Celebrating the 60th anniversary of the legendary Autavia collection, Tag Heuer is releasing three new timepieces in 2022. This commemorative series is comprised of two flyback chronograph models and the first-ever three-hand GMT within the Autavia collection.
The Calibre Heuer 02 COSC Flyback manufacture movement brings the flyback function to the Autavia collection for the first time with two new chronograph models, while the Calibre 7 COSC GMT movement drives a brand-new three-hand GMT model – another first for the Autavia collection.
The new Autavia Flyback Chronograph references are immediately recognisable with their distinctive chronograph pushers and an extra-large crown, which are both inspired by the historic TAG Heuer dashboard timers.
Another feature that has contributed to the reputation of TAG Heuer chronographs is readability. Here too, TAG Heuer remains true to its DNA with a Super-LumiNova® coating on the hour markers and hands, which ensures quick and clear legibility, once again taking inspiration from a historic Autavia reference, the 73663, which included a dial variation that also featured large luminous Arabic numerals.
A bidirectional rotating bezel and a sapphire crystal front and back reinforce the durability and utility of the new TAG Heuer Autavia chronographs.
One of the two chronograph models features a silver dial and polished stainless-steel case, a nod to the rare and coveted panda dials that were produced for the Autavia in extremely limited quantities in the 1960s.
The second Autavia flyback model showcases the direct link to TAG Heuer’s military pieces of the past with its black dial and DLC-coated case.
The third model introduced in the 60th year of the Autavia wristwatch is fitted with the Calibre 7 COSC GMT movement. The completely new three-hand GMT Autavia (the first GMT model in the collection) features a radiant blue sunray-brushed dial. Its numerals and hands coated with Super-LumiNova® for perfect readability.
Measuring 42mm, the polished stainless-steel case is mounted with a magnificent blue and black ceramic bezel. The watch features four centrally placed hands for displaying hour, minute, seconds and GMT/second time-zone. The GMT hand can be distinguished easily by its bright orange color.
All three models will be delivered either on a stainless-steel bracelet or an alligator leather strap fitted with a double-pushbutton deployant clasp, and customers can choose an additional strap if they wish thanks to the easy interchangeability options on this model.
All timepieces from this new series are tested for a water resistance of 100 meters.
Technical details
Collection: TAG Heuer Autavia 60th Anniversary
Model: TAG HEUER AUTAVIA 60th Anniversary Flyback Chronograph
Reference: CBE511B.FC8279
Dial
Silver dial
Indexes and hands with off-white Super-LumiNova®
Rhodium-plated hour and minute hands
Case
42 mm diameter
Polished and fine-brushed stainless-steel case
Black ceramic bidirectional rotating bezel
Sapphire caseback
Water resistance: 100 metres
Bracelet
Black alligator leather strap
Stainless-steel pin buckle
Availability
From January 2022
Model: TAG HEUER AUTAVIA 60th Anniversary Flyback Chronograph
Reference: CBE511C.FC8280
Dial
Black dial
Indexes and hands with green Super-LumiNova®
Case
42 mm diameter
DLC-coated, polished and fine-brushed case
Black ceramic bidirectional rotating bezel
Sapphire caseback
Water resistance: 100 metres
Bracelet
Black alligator leather strap
DLC-coated pin buckle
Dial
Blue sunray-brushed dial
Numerals and hands with white Super-LumiNova®
Case
42 mm diameter
Polished and fine-brushed stainless-steel case
Blue ceramic, black 24-hour scale bidirectional rotating bezel
Water resistance: 100 metres
Bracelet
Stainless-steel folding clasp with double safety pushbuttons
Hublot announces a 25-piece limited-edition watch symbolizing its continuing collaboration with the Oetker Collection’s iconic Caribbean hotel.
Hublot’s partnership with Eden Rock – St Barths, which is operated by the Oetker Collection, has produced special watches before, but this is the first time Hublot’s flagship Big Bang Unico 45mm has provided the template for the collaboration. The new 25-piece limited-edition has a calming 45mm cerulean blue ceramic case inspired by the colour of the sky, the ocean, and elements of the hotel’s recently reappointed interior.
The colour palette of the watch, in shades of light blue, white, red and teal accents is inspired by the white coral sand of St Jean Bay, the red rooftops of the hotel and the ever-changing shades of the idyllic blue sea.
The back of the sapphire crystal case is decorated with a specially created outline of the iconic Rock and the hotel, as seen from the shoreline, while the matching blue presentation box has a porthole containing a sample of the sand from the beach.
Beyond these special details, the watch is powered by Hublot’s hugely accomplished Unico automatic mechanical chronograph movement, and it comes with a choice of three straps, one in white rubber with blue stripes, a second in blue rubber, and thirdly a white velcro strap.
Representing the second collaboration between Eden Rock – St Barths & Hublot, this timepiece combines the style & spirit of the Hotel with a casual sophistication. Initially the Big Bang Unico Eden Rock St Barths will only be available at the hotel. In time, it will also be available through the Hublot boutique.
