The Deep Blue diving watch from the award winning Raider family of timepieces merges exceptional engineering achievements with Favre Leuba’s iconic retro-futuristic design.
Paying homage to the design lines of its predecessor – the original Deep Blue launched in 1964 – the contemporary Raider Deep Blue is an iconic timepiece of its own standing.
Available in both a 41 or 44mm size and water-resistant up to 30 bar/30 m, the Deep Blue’s face features a stainless steel unidirectional rotating bezel with a bicolor, anodized aluminum insert that has a 20-minute dive sector scale marking in orange/black or blue/black.
The blue or black face of the watch features luminescent faceted square hour markers and an hour hand and minute hand providing a clearly visible indicator of time for underwater and land-borne explorers.
The practical, yet stylish design of the Deep Blue is enhanced by the watch’s lug drop design which ensures it fits snuggly and comfortably both on the skin and on a wetsuit, making it the watch of choice for explorers and adventurers both above and below the deep blue.
The various design options allow the choice between a stainless steel case, or the PVD plated option, which can be availed in the Oceanic Blue or Midnight Black dial colors. Both these watch cases can be combined with three variations of strap, a matt sandblasted stainless-steel case, a comfortable rubber strap, as well as a soft calf leather strap. The sporty stainless-steel metal bracelet also features a safety folding clasp with diving extension system. An additional option of a NATO strap will soon be available.
Model: Raider Deep Blue
Automatic Sellita SW200 or ETA 2824
Hours, minutes, seconds, date display
Stainless steel, sapphire crystal with antireflection coating on both sides, screwed and aligned case back, diameter: 41 or 44 mm, water-resistant up to 30 bar/300 m
Midnight Black, Oceanic Blue
Option of Calf Leather Strap, Rubber strap, or Stainless-Steel Metal Bracelet folding clasp with safety bracket and diving extension system
In 2017, Favre-Leuba unveiled Raider Bivouac 9000, the first mechanical wristwatch capable of measuring altitudes of up to 9,000 m above sea level. In 2019, the Raider Bivouac 9000 delights its fans with a new version dressed in stylish black. It is also available with a lifesaving RECCO® reflector strap.
When Japanese mountaineer Junko Tabei became the first woman to reach the summit of Mount Everest on May 16, 1975, she was wearing the world’s first mechanical wristwatch capable of measuring air pressure and altitudes of up to 3,000 m above sea level via an aneroid barometer. Favre-Leuba developed this revolutionary instrument watch 12 years earlier. Christened Bivouac, the piece set new standards in the art of watchmaking and quickly became an essential companion for mountain climbers, pilots, explorers, and outstanding pioneers.
Launched in 2017, on the occasion of Favre-Leuba’s 280th anniversary, the Raider Bivouac 9000, which can accurately display altitudes of up to 9,000 m, pays respectful tribute to its legendary role model, Bivouac.
Since its launch, the Raider Bivouac 9000 has participated in countless expeditions and adventures across the globe as a reliable companion even under extreme conditions.
Aesthetically, the Bivouac 9000 has a unique contemporary style. Its impressive case, made of lightweight, hard-wearing, and hypoallergenic titanium, is enough to make this watch stand out from the crowd. With a diameter of 48 mm, it provides the perfect backdrop for the dial. The main design priority was optimal readability under all conditions, and this is now even clearer with the new deep black version.
Against the black background, the applied indexes and the striking hour and minute hands, which are white in daylight and glow in the dark, cannot be missed. The subdials for the altimeter and the air-pressure display at 3 o’clock, for the small-seconds dial at 9 o’clock, and for the power reserve indications at 12 o’clock are sharp black with clean white hands. These simple colors draw the eye to the deep red central hand, which with the scale on the bidirectional rotating bezel indicates a climb in altitude of up to 3,000 m per rotation. Meanwhile, the small red hand on the subdial at 3 o’clock indicates altitude gain in steps of 1,000 m, up to a maximum of 9,000 m.
The principle of measuring altitude and air pressure using an aneroid barometer was a feature of the 1962 Bivouac and remained unchanged for the new version of the black dial Bivouac 9000. It uses this barometer to record changes in altitude and air pressure as they occur during ascents, descents, and changes in weather. For the new model, the designers chose innovative materials and made very precise calculations for the barometer capsule design, so that the Bivouac 9000 can now display altitudes of up to 9,000 m above sea level.
A power-reserve indicator also gives the wearer plenty of warning when the watch needs to be wound after the movement has been running for over 60 hours. The mechanism behind this display is also far from standard: its design is so ingenious that it can perform its complex task with as few components as possible, making it even more reliable. Last but not least, the Bivouac 9000 is water-resistant, unlike its 1962 counterpart.
The watch is also available with Kevlar strap with an integrated RECCO® reflector that can help save lives. RECCO® technology was developed to search for missing or buried avalanche victims and is used by mountain rescue teams across the globe. The reflectors, which operate without a separate power supply, are located by search devices and are therefore a useful addition to avalanche transceivers.
Hand-wound; specially designed mechanisms for altimeter and for the power-reserve indicator; power reserve of 65 hours.
Hours, minutes, small seconds, central hand to display altitudes of 3,000 m per full rotation, subdial for displaying altitudes of up to 9,000 m and air pressure in hPa, power reserve display, date display
Titanium; bidirectional rotating bezel with black anodized aluminum insert; sapphire glass with antireflection coating on both sides; aligned screw-in case back; diameter of 48 mm, water-resistant to 3 bar/30 m
Black; applied indexes; luminous indexes and hour and minute hands, red hands for altimeter
Black Kevlar with RECCO® reflector, gray antelope leather or black rubber with pin buckle
Favre-Leuba expands their Raider line of watches by presenting the Raider Sea King model that incorporates a retro-futuristic design. Like the Raider Sea-Bird ladies watch launched in 2017, the Sea King features a fluted bezel, in addition to the signature tetra-decagonal bezel. The multilayered case resulting from these bezels, along with their interplay of polished and satin-brushed surfaces enables a creative contrast producing an emboldened style.
The dynamic arc extending across the sides of the case from lug to lug is reflective of the connection from the historic accomplishments of the brand to the present journey of consistent innovation.
Three different dial versions are available: an understated gentle slate grey hue, discreet yet stylish midnight black or a deep royal oceanic blue. The watch dial features large rectangular applied indexes and distinctive easily readable and luminous hands.
The flat sapphire crystal is finished with a dual side anti-reflective coating ensuring clear visibility of time under all conditions. Fitted with a screw-in case back, the watch is water resistant up to 100 meters. The watch is available with a stainless steel bracelet or soft antelope leather strap.
Hour, minutes, seconds, date display
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflections coating on both sides, screwed and aligned case back
Water resistance: 100 meters
Midnight black, oceanic blue, slate grey
Option of antelope leather strap or stainless steel metal bracelet with butterfly clasp
Favre-Leuba makes timepieces that can withstand the extreme hostile conditions of air, land and sea. In which, the product line Bathy is specially dedicated for under water explorations.
Introduced in 1968, Favre-Leuba’s Bathy was one of the first wristwatches with a membrane and a central hand that made it possible to measure depth more accurately. Celebrating the 50th anniversary of this iconic watch, in 2018, Favre-Leuba created the Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth watch equipped with a modernized depth gauge.
A special membrane integrated into the caseback allows water to enter a chamber that measures pressure to calculate depth up to 120 metres – twice the depth measured by the original Bathy. Depth is indicated by a blue central hand on the dial.
The Bathy, which is water resistant to 200 metres, also has a depth memory that stores the maximum depth (up to 120 m) reached during a single dive. The hermetical separation of the depth membrane from the movement ensures the watch is always protected.
Crafted from Titanium, the 48mm case of Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth houses a mechanical hand wound movement featuring specially designed mechanisms for depth gauge. This movement is based on the EMC 3903M caliber, which has been completely re-engineered by Favre-Leuba. It features a 65-hour power reserve and a power reserve indicator displayed at 12’o clock. The uni-directional diving bezel allows the wearer to track the remaining dive time.
Mechanical hand-wound, FL321 calibre, with specially designed mechanisms for depth gauge, 65-hour power reserve
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, 120-metre depth gauge, power reserve indicator
Titanium with unidirectional rotating bezel with anodized aluminium insert, 48 mm diameter, thickness 19 mm, screw-in crown, sapphire crystal with anti-reflection coating on both sides
Water-resistant to 200 metres (20 bar/660 ft)
Black with blue dive sector marking, red indication for decompression stops, applied luminous indexes and hands, blue hand for depth
Favre-Leuba is the second oldest active Swiss watch brand, with a rich heritage in watch engineering and designing spanning over 281 years. Led by eight generations of the Favre family until the 1980s, Favre-Leuba was acquired by the Tata Group on November 16th, 2011. With the global scope of the Tata Group behind it, FavreLeuba is now transitioning a legendary brand into the contemporary while continuing to cherish that which its forefathers breathed life into, the art of watchmaking. Not many can claim the power of history and own a piece of it. Today – Favre-Leuba is creating historic legends to be cherished for those that believe that being exemplary is just the start of their own legend.
Since its earliest beginnings back in 1737, Maison Favre-Leuba continues its quest for perfection in the art of fine watchmaking. An art which finds its expression in the elegance and simplicity of the timepieces, in the subtle harmony of unique, modern design and innovative techniques.
It is the year 1737. In Le Locle, a small Swiss village in the Jura mountains and in the heart of the watchmaking world, Abraham Favre decided to officially register his Manufacture producing timepieces. It was one of the earliest watchmaking companies. From the very start Abraham Favre concentrated on improving the technology of his timepieces, and the quality of the materials employed in their manufacture. Thanks to his hard work and pioneering spirit, the business expanded and was passed down through eight generations of the Favre family. It was his grandson Henry-Auguste, who in 1814 went a step further by going into partnership with Auguste Leuba, a watch dealer from Buttes in the Val-de-Travers.
By the 19th and early 20th centuries Favre-Leuba had ramifications around the world, with offices or representations throughout the Middle East, India and Asia, North/South America, Russia and other European countries. The business remained in the same family over eight generations, through to 1969. Then the quartz revolution came along, bringing many changes for the industry.
Favre-Leuba, one of the largest companies of its time, passed through different hands such as Benedom SA and LVMH before regaining its independence in 2003. Now the brand is owned by Tata Group. Proud of its nearly 300 years of uninterrupted history, Favre-Leuba enjoys a well-deserved worldwide reputation for its legendary watch movements and unique designs.
History of Favre Leuba watch brand
The 18th century was the century of Enlightenment. Europe teemed with inventors and thinkers, whose genius transformed daring new ideas into crowning achievements. Musicians, artists, philosophers and scientists stamped their times with their courage, passion and remarkable talents. One of them, Abraham Favre, the founder of today’s Favre-Leuba manufactory, decided to try his hand at making watches.
Tucked away in La Chaux-de-Fonds in the Neuchâtel Jura, this church elder became initiated into the complexities of watchmaking in 1718 under the watchful eye of Mr Gagnebin, an experienced master watchmaker. Horological knowledge in exchange for a furnished room, polished shoes and firewood for heating up soup; such was the agreement which led to the birth of one of Switzerland’s most prestigious watch brands. Graduating from passionate enthusiast to specialist, Mr Abraham Favre decided to become a watchmaker. His profession was soon recognized and officially recorded on “the thirtieth of March seventeen thirty-seven” in Le Locle. In a carefully-preserved document, Mr Abraham Sandoz-Genton, solicitor, confirmed that “Mr Abram Favre, son of Mr Abram Favre, church elder and part-time judge of La Chaux-de-Fonds” was officially declared a “watchmaker.
This official registration in 1737 represented the first major consecration of a life dedicated to the art of watchmaking as well as the establishment of one of the very first watch companies in Switzerland. Thanks to this ingenious craftsman’s pioneering spirit and strong work ethic, this small company has gone from strength to strength over the eight generations it has been passed down from father to son. Favre-Leuba has a long, impressive and astonishing history: the first Favre watchmaker mentioned in the notarized acts of 1718, a manufactory officially registered in 1737, a promotion to the position of “Master watchmaker of Le Locle” certified in 1751, a close working relationship until the end of the 18th century with Jacques-Frédéric Houriet, the father of Swiss chronometry, and an unbroken line of eight generations of watchmakers. Like other renowned brands, Favre-Leuba can look back over a long and illustrious history.
One story is that the writer and philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau owned a Favre timepiece. On his way to England in 1765, Jean-Jacques Rousseau spent ten days with his friend Doctor Abraham Gagnebin, a close relative of Abraham Favre and his son who had the same name. Between walks and other botanical studies in the verdant valleys of the Neuchâtel mountains, it is nice to imagine them talking about the art of watchmaking and giving expression to man’s enigmatic and intimate relationship with time. Born in 1712 into a family of watchmakers, Rousseau would certainly have been intrigued by the expertise and craftsmanship displayed by Abraham Favre, his son Abraham and his son-in-law Jacques-Frédéric Houriet.
At the end of the 18th century was a violent and dangerous time. Triumphant in Paris, the French Revolution of 1789 had divided the people of France, divisions that were felt as far away as the Neuchâtel mountains. In both Le Locle and La Chaux de-Fonds, revolutionary agitators clashed with the ideas of the counter revolutionaries. Despite the political and economic turmoil, life went on. In 1795, a letter from Jacques-Frédéric Houriet shows that he was still happily and confidently working with Abraham Favre’s son, whose work he described as “meticulous” and “exceptional”. Here was further testimony of Favre’s attention to detail and mastery, qualities that have been transmitted from generation to generation.
The Favres, however, have not been the only actors in this story. Early in the 19th century, the Leubas joined forces with them and helped build up the company. Under their combined commercial and artistic expertise, the company flourished both in Switzerland and abroad, gaining an international reputation in the process. Besides a concern for quality and precision, the watch trade demanded a keen sense of business.
From Le Locle to Valparaiso, Moscow, New York, Beirut, Bahrain and Singapore:exotic names that conjure up exciting journeys, enriching experiences and enduring impressions. Souvenirs of this conquest of distant markets include Fritz Favre’s passport, stamped in 1863 in Saint-Petersburg on the orders of His Imperial Majesty Alexander II, Tsar of all the Russias, letters sent from London and Panama, medals from the 1855 Universal Exposition in Paris, a letter sent to Fritz Favre in Chile, accounts of journeys from Bombay and Calcutta, etc.
No country seemed beyond the reach of this family business, giving it the dimension of a truly international brand. This is shown by the company’s letterhead from the end of the 19th century, reproduced here. Ignoring the risks of travelling by coach, train, steamer or plane, the Favres and Leubas have conducted business in the remotest regions of the world, thereby confirming their dynamism, unfailing optimism and passionate commitment.
Under the leadership of Henry A. Favre during the years following the Second World War, the company continued efforts to improve the technology of the watch movements, focusing on improving their properties under temperature variations. This research indeed resulted in more accurate and reliable movements, most of which are still running well today – some 50 years later. The FL251 movement designed in 1962 is a good example of these exceptional masterpieces: it is an extra-thin twin-barrel movement with a centre second hand and 50 hours of power reserve. It was a good 30 years ahead of its time.
1962 was also important to Favre-Leuba as the year when the “Bivouac” was launched, the first wristwatch with an altimeter and barometer function. It was a runaway success and became a must for the major expeditions of the time. Paul-Emile Victor used it in Antarctica, Vaucher and Bonatti for conquering the north face of the “Grandes Jorasses” in the Alps. Many others followed in their footsteps. 1964 saw the launch of one of the earliest diving timepieces, the “Deep Blue”, which was waterproof to 200m.
In 1966 came the legendary “Bathy”, a unique mechanical instrument giving divers not only a precise indication of their time under water, but also a direct and accurate reading of their actual depth. The “Sea Raider” followed in 1970, with a true techno-logical break-through : their first high frequency movement of 36’000 vibrations per hour giving the watch unparalleled accuracy.
Proud of its 300-year history, the watch company was managed by eight generations of Favres and Leubas, before a short ”eclipse” at the end of the twentieth century. Two sons of Henry A. Favre, Florian A. &Eric A. Favre, continued to lead the company as the eighth generation. The introduction of cheap quartz movements in 1969 nevertheless plugged the Swiss watch industry into serious crisis, which did not stop at the gates of Favre-Leuba’s workshops. After integration into the Saphir Group, to which Jaeger-LeCoultre also belonged, the family was subsequently compelled to sell the brand in the 1980s. After that, the company changed ownership, with owners including Benedom SA and LVMH.
On November 16th, 2011, Titan Company Limited, the watch manufacturing company of the Tata Group acquired the brand and transferred its company headquarters to Zug.
Legendary Watch Models by Favre Leuba
BIVOUAC(1962): The revolutionary BIVOUAC has been regarded as an essential instrument for mountaineers since its launch in 1962. It is equipped with multiple measurement functions, one of which indicates the altitude and the weather based on barometric pressure. The aneroid barometer is a real mechanical marvel that functions by means of a partial vacuum in a metal capsule, which contracts when the air pressure is high and expands when it is low. These variations are amplified and transmitted to a mechanism which, coupled with an altimeter, displays the information on the dial.
– Rotating bezel with mobile altitude scale
– Barometric scale with red marker at 760 mmHg
– Red altimeter-barometer hand
Before worrying about rust, watchmakers sought a way to combat dust. It was from research into sealing their timepieces against air-born impurities that the first water-resistant watches were born. But it was thanks to the invention of the screw-down crown that the first truly waterproof watch was made. Since then, diver’s watches have undergone spectacular progress, aided by their use in submarine combat units.
BATHY (1966):It was with the BATHY that Favre-Leuba created the first depth gauge graduated in metres (50 m) and feet (160 ft). Besides indicating the length of time spent underwater, the BATHY gave divers a direct and accurate reading of their depth.The BATHY still embodies the Favre-Leuba spirit: inventing new precision instruments that unite the art of watchmaking and a passion for sport.
– Water-resistance tested to 10 atm
– Unidirectional rotating bezel with 60 notches for calculating diving time
– Decompression stages indicator
– High-resistance glass
– Fluorescent displays
THE MERCURY COLLECTION: Favre-Leuba launched a new collection in 2007: Mercury. Inspired by the eclipse of the planet Mercury by Venus in 1737 – the year that the Favre Manufacture was officially registered – this collection marked the return of the brand to the centre of the watch stage. The Mercury collection illustrates Favre-Leuba’s on-going commitment to quality and inspiration as well as its dedication to perfection. It comprises three lines: Mercury Chronograph FL 301, Mercury Big Date FL 302 and Mercury Power Reserve FL 303. These precious timepieces, fitted with automatic movements with additional manufactory-made modules, are distinguished by their superior design and the meticulous attention paid to the finishing.
Bathy V2 : More than 40 years after its revolutionary impact on the world of diver’s watches, this exceptional timekeeper features new mechanical functions and an imposing design. The legendary Bathy is guaranteed to make generations of divers dream for a long time to come. A watch of superlatives with vigorous, contemporary lines, the Bathy has made a grand comeback, both under the sea and on the land.
The fascinating Bathy V2 is automatic. Its depth gauge works on a beryllium copper membrane. The water enters the double back through four large visible openings on the side. The resulting pressure causes the membrane to contract. By means of a complex mechanism, this contraction, no more than a few tenths of a millimetre, moves the hand on the dial, and does so with unparalleled precision: less than 0.18% deviation for the depth gauge at 45 metres!
This precision – extended to its limits in the most extreme conditions – is one of Favre-Leuba’s trademarks. And, of course, the diver’s safety depends on it. Also for reasons of safety, all the important diving indications are coated with Superluminova to provide optimum legibility: the rotating flange(for measuring the duration of the dive in minutes), the minute and depth-gauge hands and the scale (in metres or feet depending on the version).
This makes the visual contrast, with the depth indicated in a choice of red, yellow or orange, all the more striking! The two screw-down crowns guarantee total water resistance to 300 metres. Despite the watch’s particularly impressive dimensions – 50mm in diameter and 18mm thick – it is unbelievably light. And the case is made in Grade 5 titanium, the best quality, like all the materials used by Favre-Leuba.
Raider and Chief Collections: In 2016, Favre Leuba made a comeback with new watch collections: Raider and Chief
The Raider Sea Bird from Favre-Leuba is the ideal companion for modern women who embrace challenges, who think and act independently, who defy convention and cultivate their own unique style. This new ladies’ watch is irrefutable proof that aesthetic beauty and functionality are not mutually exclusive, and that a feminine look can undoubtedly be strong, distinctive, and sporty.
Its distinctive look is marked by an independent and feminine interpretation of the characteristic design elements that have set Favre-Leuba watches apart throughout the brand’s history.
Large, rectangular, applied indexes and distinctive, easily readable, and luminous hands make a powerful statement on an otherwise minimalist dial. Four different dial colors can be chosen from: a pure white that radiates brightness, a captivating copper tone with a shimmering glow, a classic brown that exudes timeless style, and a deep royal blue that conjures up images of the unfathomable depths of the ocean and the boundless expanse of the sky.
The robust stainless steel case is water-resistant to 100 meters and has a sporty yet elegant design. Its inimitable design truly stands apart thanks to its unique tetra-decagonal bezel. A dynamic arc extends across the sides of the case from lug to lug like a bridge across time, while the combination of polished and satin-brushed surfaces provides an attractive contrast. Even the screw-in case back is perfectly aligned thanks to a unique mechanism.
The elegant stainless-steel bracelet with high-quality folding clasp perfectly complements the modern, functional look of the Raider Sea Bird and ensures simple, effortless comfort. The version with a 37-millimeter-diameter case houses a Swiss automatic movement whereas the 34mm version is powered with a quartz movement.
Model: Raider Sea Bird
Movement: Automatic or quartz
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date display
Case: Stainless steel, sapphire crystal with antireflection coating on both sides, screwed and aligned case back, diameter: 37 mm (automatic) or 34 mm (quartz), water-resistant up to 10 bar/100 m
Dial: White, copper, royal blue, brown, applied indexes, luminous indexes, hour and minute hands
Bracelet: Stainless steel with butterfly clasp
This year, Favre-Leuba celebrates its 280th anniversary with a groundbreaking creation- the Bivouac 9000 – the first mechanical wristwatch capable of measuring altitudes of up to an incredible 9,000 meters above sea level
For 280 years, Favre-Leuba has been producing iconic timepieces featuring landmark developments in the world of horology, setting new standards in watch design and engineering, and redefining what is technically possible. In 2017, Switzerland’s second-oldest watch brand is once again providing clear proof that ingenuity and unrivaled innovation continue to inspire everything it does. The Bivouac 9000 is a watch that really pushes the boundaries, a watch that quite literally goes above and beyond what other watches are capable of and makes a very clear statement – a watch that achieves something previously thought impossible.
The design team drew their inspiration for this groundbreaking creation, released to celebrate the brand’s 280th anniversary, from the company’s own history: in 1962, Favre-Leuba launched the world’s first mechanical wristwatch capable of measuring air pressure and altitudes of up to 3,000 meters above sea level. The outstanding reliability and precision of this watch, as well as the fact that it was extremely easy to use and read, quickly made it a permanent feature on the wrists of mountain climbers, pilots, explorers, and every pioneer who achieved great things thanks to their courage and persistence.
The Bivouac 9000 is a homage to its legendary 1962 namesake, but has been improved and refined to make it capable of coping with the demands that are now placed on a highly functional instrument that is designed to be a reliable companion at extremely high altitudes.
The Bivouac 9000 still measures altitude with the aid of an aneroid barometer, but now does so up to an incredible height of 9,000 meters above sea level. The red central hand indicates the altitude on the bidirectional rotating bezel, which carries a scale divided into 50-meter steps, up to 3,000 meters. One full clockwise rotation of the red central hand thus indicates a climb in altitude of 3,000 meters. During a climb, the small red hand of the subdial located at 3 o’clock continues to turn too, until, after three full rotations of the central hand, it arrives at its final destination of 9,000 meters above sea level. The bezel is held securely in place by a two way ratchet mechanism that prevents it from being unintentionally moved to a different position.
The heart of the barometer is an airtight capsule made from a special alloy. The capsule expands when the air pressure drops as the wearer climbs and contracts when the air pressure rises during the descent. The expansion and contraction of the capsule triggers a linear movement, which is then converted into a rotational movement to indicate the altitude. The altitude is made visible by the red hands on the stone-gray dial. The atmospheric air that is required to measure the altitude enters the chamber containing the barometer capsule through a three millimeter opening in the case, which is protected by a perforated membrane.
It is not until you consider that the difference between the air pressure at sea level and at the summit of the world’s highest peak does not even amount to one atmosphere (approx. 0.7 bar), that you can begin to guess how intricate the mechanism inside the Bivouac 9000 must be to precisely measure altitudes up to 9,000 meters.
For example, when a mountaineer sets out from the Hörnlihütte base camp at 3,260 meters above sea level to scale the Matterhorn, he first must set the Bivouac 9000 to the correct height: the small red altimeter hand has just passed 3 on the subdial– which is equivalent to 3,000 meters –while the bezel has been adjusted by the wearer so that the red central hand is pointing at 260. During the ascent to the peak, the climber can now use the wristwatch to monitor the constantly rising altitude via the central hand as it slowly turns clockwise during the climb. When the mountaineer reaches the summit cross, the Bivouac 9000 will proudly display an altitude of 4,478 meters above sea level.
The Bivouac 9000 is also capable of displaying any changes in air pressure at the same altitude. The hectopascal (hPa) scale on the subdial located at 3 o’clock displays the current air pressure on a scale ranging from 1,013 to 300 hPa. If the climber sets the watch to the correct height of the Matterhorn base camp on the evening before the ascent, the small red air-pressure hand opposite the altimeter hand will be pointing to approximately 680 hPa – the average air pressure at this altitude. Should the air pressure drop during the night, the central hand will turn clockwise and the small air-pressure hand will be pointing to a lower value the next morning. This means the ambitious climber is now in an area of low pressure – the weather has worsened. In extreme weather conditions, for example if a storm is approaching, the difference between the actual and average air pressure can be as much as 150 hPa. However, if the central hand has turned anticlockwise and the small air-pressure hand is pointing to a higher value than it was the previous evening, this indicates an area of high pressure with improved weather conditions surrounding the Matterhorn. With its ability to provide such information, the Bivouac 9000 is an important instrument that helps climbers to decide whether or not they should attempt the dangerous ascent or postpone it until another day.
While the Bivouac 9000 is inspired by its 1962 predecessor, it features a number of significant technical improvements and refinements. The most significant of these is the increase in the altitude it is capable of measuring from 3,000 to 9,000 meters. This required the use of innovative materials for the barometer and precise calculations for the height and diameter of the capsule, as well as anew conversion mechanism for the altimeter.
Unlike the 1962 Bivouac, the new version is also watertight. This is because the air inlet in the case, which is required for the barometer, is protected by a fine but tough membrane made from a micro-perforated hydrophobic material. This membrane allows air – but not water or dust particles – to pass through.
In order to fulfill their function, the perforations in the membrane need to be as small as possible while still being large enough to allow air to circulate. The size of the perforations therefore had to be calculated and tested with extreme precision. This guarantees that the altimeter hand reacts instantly to changes in air pressure, even when the ascent or descent occurs rapidly, for example during a helicopter flight. Additional protection is provided in the form of a plate over the membrane held in place by two screws, with only very fine vents in the side to allow the air to circulate. This plate protects the delicate membrane against physical damage caused by hard, sharp objects or sand.
Together with the altimeter and air-pressure display, the dial also features a power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock. This gives the wearer plenty of warning when the watch needs to be wound after the movement has been running for around 60 hours. In line with Favre-Leuba’s long tradition of challenging the status quo, of routinely defying convention, of seeking to follow new paths in pursuit of innovative solutions, the mechanism that drives this power-reserve indicator is also anything but standard. It is designed in such a way that it does not affect the height of the movement and carries out its complex task with as few components as possible, which makes it much more reliable. Generally, the lower the amount of components required for a mechanism, the less likely it is to malfunction. For the power-reserve indicator of the Bivouac 9000, the English differential screw system has been modernized, optimized, and adapted to perfectly meet the needs of this watch.
For those mountaineers who push themselves beyond their physical and mental limits, it is crucial to be able to quickly check that the Bivouac 9000 is running smoothly. This is made possible by the hand of the small-seconds subdial, precisely ticking away the seconds at 9 o’clock. The wearer can also count down the days until their next adventure using the date display, located in a window at 6 o’clock.
When designing the Bivouac 9000, Favre-Leuba took inspiration from its own legendary timepieces to create a watch with a modern interpretation of the brand’s characteristic design elements. Ensuring that the dial is perfectly legible in any conditions was key. The style of the dial is minimalistic – there is nothing unnecessary to distract the view from the important displays. Plenty of room is given to the large subdials for the altimeter and air-pressure display at 3 o’clock and the small-seconds dial at 9 o’clock, and the power-reserve indicator is clearly visible thanks to its contrasting black arc.
The luminous hour and minute hands and rectangular indexes stand out clearly against the discreet and understated stone-gray dial. But the central altimeter hand is clearly the star of the show with its eye-catching deep red color.
The Bivouac 9000 comes dressed in a robust yet lightweight and comfortable titanium case measuring 48 millimeters diameter. The bidirectional rotating bezel, which is intuitive to use and features Favre-Leuba’s trademark tetra-decagon design, carries an altimeter scale divided into 50-meter steps. The arc extending across the sides of the case from lug to lug like a bridge spanning over time serve to further emphasize the dynamic aesthetics of this exceptional timepiece and is symbolic of the connection with its ancestor. The vintage-look leather strap also makes it a stylish accessory in any setting.
Model: Raider Bivouac 9000
Hand-wound; specially designed mechanisms for altimeter and power-reserve indicator; power reserve of 65 hours
Hours, minutes, small seconds, central hand to display altitudes of 3,000 m per full rotation, subdial for displaying altitudes of up to 9,000 m and air pressure in hPa, power-reserve indicator, date display
Titanium; bidirectional rotating bezel with anodized aluminum insert; screw-in crown; sapphire crystal with antireflection coating on both sides; screwed and aligned case back; diameter 48 mm, height 18.7 mm, water-resistant up to 3 bar/30 m
Stone-gray; applied indexes; luminous indexes and hour and minute hands, red hand for altimeter
After taking over by Tata Group in 2011, Swiss watch brand Favre-Leuba, which traces its origins back to 1737, is making a comeback this year by launching new watch collections: the Raider and Chief.
Inspired by their legendary forefathers, the timepieces from the Raider and Chief lines boast technical as well as aesthetic brilliance. Like their role models, the new watches are characterized by innovation and functionality. They are dependable companions for those who are not held back by seemingly insurmountable limits but rather pave their own way.
Identifying and pursuing new targets and adventures, constantly challenging the status quo, changing perspectives to find creative solutions, redefining obstacles as opportunities to surpass instead of limits to bow down to – this mindset was and continues to be the foundation of Favre-Leuba, and which is best expressed through their watches that narrate the glorious history. With its striking aesthetics and ingenious functionality, The Bivouac, which, in 1962, was the first mechanical watch equipped with an aneroid barometer for altimetry and air pressure measurement, and The Bathy of 1968, which for the first time displayed not only dive time but also dive depth, are worthy torchbearers. Time and time again, they have always been reliable companions to their wearers – in every situation where they were conquering frontiers be it at great heights or depths, in heat, high humidity, or freezing cold.
It would hence only be apt to take a leaf out of the old book and design the contemporary line of watches based on these successes. The thread that runs common with the past well into the present, across the two new lines of Raider and Chief, is the perseverance of excellence in both functionality and design.
Favre-Leuba Raider Line
Timepieces from the Raider line are ideal companions for anyone who revels in rising above the defined boundaries. The Deep Blue, waterproof to 300 m, accompanies divers to discover the mysterious worlds underwater, while the Sea Sky combines the functionality of a chronograph with the practical benefit of a rotating bezel, which allows the wearer to define new benchmarks. With this year’s collection highlight, Favre-Leuba offers further proof of its values such as defiance, ingenuity and the pioneering spirit, that have defined the brand for over the rich 279 years. With its innovative and unique way of displaying the time, the Harpoon demonstrates that, especially in this case, less is surely more.
Bundled with all that is essential to an explorer, Harpoon is indeed the ultimate diving watch. What it lets one see, is what is needed the most, the minutes of precision to complete a successful dive.
Automatic, patented mechanism for hour display
Time display by minute hand and hour indicator, running seconds disk at the center for function control, helium valve
Stainless steel or Stainless steel with Gun metal PVD coating
Unidirectional rotating bezel made of anodized aluminium
Sapphire crystal with antireflection coating on both sides
Screwed and aligned case back
Diameter: 46 mm, height: 16.5 mm
Water-resistant up to 50 bar/500 m
Black or Blue
Appliquéd index marks; luminous (blue emission) index marks and hour indicator, minute and second hands, markings under seconds disk
Rubber strap or Black/Brown calf skin strap, pin buckle
RAIDER DEEP BLUE
Hours, minutes, running seconds disk at the center for function control, date display
Stainless steel or stainless steel with Gun Metal PVD coating
Unidirectional rotating bezel made of anodized aluminum; screw-in crown; sapphire crystal with antireflection coating on both sides; screwed and aligned case back; diameter 44 mm, height 13.5 mm, water-resistant up to 30 bar/300 m
Blue or Black dial
Appliquéd index marks; luminous (blue emission) index marks, hour, minute and second hands, markings under seconds disk
Black/Brown calfskin strap, pin buckle or
Stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp with safety bracket and diving extension system or
Rubber strap with pin buckle
RAIDER SEA SKY
Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour counters, date display
Stainless steel or stainless steel with Gun Metal PVD coating
Unidirectional rotating bezel made of anodized aluminum; screw-in crown; sapphire crystal with antireflection coating on both sides; screwed and aligned case back; diameter 44 mm, height 15.7 mm, water-resistant up to 20 bar/200 m
Black/white or Blue/white
Appliquéd index marks; luminous (blue emission) index marks, hour and minute hands
Black/Brown calfskin, pin buckle or
Stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp with safety bracket or
Rubber strap with pin buckle
Favre-Leuba Chief Line
Timepieces from the Chief line boast a succinct style alliance with timeless aesthetics. The line presently offers two models: the Sky Chief Date and the Sky Chief Chronograph.
SKY CHIEF DATE
Hours, minutes, seconds, date display
Stainless steel or Stainless steel with rose gold bezel
Screw-in crown; curved sapphire crystal with antireflection coating on one side; screwed and aligned case back; diameter 43 mm, height 12.8 mm, water-resistant up to 10 bar/100 m
Black or Anthracite
Appliquéd index marks; luminous index marks, hour and minute hands
Black or Brown calfskin, pin buckle
SKY CHIEF CHRONOGRAPH
Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph with 30-minute counter, date display
Stainless steel or Stainless steel with rose gold bezel
Screw-in crown; curved sapphire crystal with antireflection coating on one side; screwed and aligned case back; diameter 43 mm, height 16.1 mm, water-resistant up to 10 bar/100 m
Black or anthracite
Appliquéd index marks; luminous index marks, hour and minute hands
Black or Brown calfskin, pin buckle
The unmistakable shapes and bold elements confirm that the DNA of the new Raider and Chief collection belong to the Favre-Leuba brand and have been skillfully translated into the design of today.
The Favre-Leuba design language – clear, expressive lines – characterizes all products. The case –a bow drawn from lug to lug, just like a bridge running over time, shares the enthralling contrast of the brushed and polished surfaces. The bezel – this seemingly simple design component also boasts a special detail when observed: it’s not just another circular functional element but rather a finely wrought Tetradecagon, which creates a strong and distinctive look of the new Favre-Leuba collection.
The case back – made with precision that conveys no detail is ever too small at Favre-Leuba, is screwed in place to ensure that it’s always perfectly aligned.
The striking hands and the conspicuous appliquéd index marks, pronounce a mark of boldness on an otherwise minimalistic dial. Not only are these the distinguishing feature of an unpretentious timepiece but also prove to be a functional element in the dark as the Super-LumiNova coating comes to light.
For serious watch collectors, Swiss watch maker Favre-Leuba presents A. Schild model, produced as a limited edition of 100. These watches incorporate a 1967 Schild base movement, the first to beat at 36,000 vibrations/hour and jointly developed by Girard-Perregaux and Favre-Leuba, which was able to locate a small supply of these vintage calibres.
Model: A.Schild Limited edition
Original vintage movement
Original movement of 1967
Hand-wound, Calibre A. Schild, 36,000 vib/h, 21 jewels, 85 components
42-hour power reserve
Micro « perlage » and « satinage »
Black Gold plated
Wheels « soleillées » with rose gold plated
Hours, minutes, seconds
Stainless steel, 41 mm
Cambered anti-reflective sapphire glass
Screwed in caseback and bezel
Water-resistant to 100 meters
Semi-transparent with metal finishing for UV protection
Hands and indexes applied in gold (18K) with Superluminova
Grey genuine alligator, folding clasp in steel with twin safety lock system
Favre-Leuba has created a limited edition Chrono-Datoluxe timepiece equipped with a hand-wound movement based on a historic chronograph caliber from Angelus. The vintage Angelus chrono Datolux movements were manufactured in 1948.
The calibre 250 from Angelus manufacture, chronograph movement of 12 lines (27,00 mm) and 30-minute counter, was presented in 1948. It allowed for the launch of the masterpiece movement by Angelus: the Chrono-Datoluxe, first chronograph with day / date windows and moon phase indicator. The day and the date are on two distinct and coaxial discs.
Produced in white gold, the Chrono-Datoluxe watch is limited to 50 pieces.
Hand-wound mechanical, Calibre 252 based on Angelus, manufactured in 1948,
48-hour power reserve
Mechanical corrector for moon phases, day and date
Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date and moon phases
Column-wheel chronograph with 30-minute counter and small seconds
White gold (18K)
White silver guilloche
Genuine alligator with (18K) white gold buckle
Inspired by the acclaimed Bathy of 1966, innovating with its screw-down crown ensuring an all-ending water-resistance, the new Bathy chronograph Triple Time Zone imposes its unique design. The volume of the case is bold and elegant with a diameter of 46mm. Despite of its impressive size it is comfortable to wear thanks to its curved back case. Its rubber strap allows a sportive usage also underwater. Using the three time zones is simple and intuitive with two time zones on 12 hours whilst the third zone on 24 hours and allows to differentiate with ease day from night times.
Automatic, calibre FL 304, 28,800 vib/h
25 jewels, 297 components
Power reserve of 40 hours
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph, 3 time zones
Titanium grade 2, diameter 46mm, thickness 18mm
Cambered anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Screwed and engraved in caseback
Water-resistant to 100 m
Galvanic black with special guilloche and rotating flange, large numbers
More than 40 years after its revolutionary impact on the world of diver’s watches, this exceptional timekeeper features new mechanical functions and an imposing design. The legendary Bathy is guaranteed to make generations of divers dream for a long time to come.
A watch of superlatives with vigorous, contemporary lines, the Bathy is making a grand comeback,both under the sea and on the land.
The fascinating Bathy V2 is automatic. Its depth gauge works on a beryllium copper membrane. The water enters the double back through four large visible openings on the side. The resulting pressure causes the membrane to contract. By means of a complex mechanism, this contraction, no more than a few tenths of a millimetre, moves the hand on the dial, and does so with unparalleled precision: less than 0.18% deviation for the depth gauge at 45 metres. This precision – extended to its limits in the most extreme conditions – is one of Favre-Leuba’s trademarks.
And, of course, the diver’s safety depends on it. Also for reasons of safety, all the important diving indications are coated with Superluminova to provide optimum legibility: the rotating flange (for measuring the duration of the dive in minutes), the minute and depthgauge hands and the scale (in metres or feet depending on the version). This makes the visual contrast, with the depth indicated in a choice of red, yellow or orange. The two screw-down crowns guarantee total water-resistance to 300 metres.
Despite the watch’s particularly impressive dimensions – 50mm in diameter and 18mm thick – it is unbelievably light. And the case is made in Grade 5 titanium, the best quality, like all the materials used by Favre-Leuba. A blend of modernity and tradition, the Bathy is a lot more than a timekeeper. It is the ideal companion for all those who value precision and wish to realise their dream every day.
Technical details Movement
Automatic mechanical – exclusive FL 305 calibre, 23 jewels, 28,800 vib/h, 224 components.44-hour power reserve.
In a return to its origins, Favre-Leuba launched a new collection in 2007: Mercury. Inspired by the eclipse of the planet Mercury by Venus in 1737 – the year that the Favre Manufacture was officially registered – this collection marks the return of the brand to the centre of the watch stage. The Mercury collection illustrates Favre-Leuba’s on-going commitment to quality and inspiration as well as its dedication to perfection.
It comprises three model : Mercury Chronograph FL 301, Mercury Big Date FL 302 and Mercury Power Reserve FL 303. All models of the Mercury collection are fitted with the automatic Favre-Leuba calibre driven by the wearer’s movements. Individual versions are available, but all have one thing in common – perfection in every detail – Nothing less. Each individual watch from the Mercury collection is handmade by Favre-Leuba master-watchmakers. All stand out for their unique design and the distinctive features specific to the “Maison”.
The worldwide-exclusive “Embedded Running Indicator” (ERI) and the “Bidirectional /
Crown Locking System” (B/CLS) are totally unique, as are the automatic Favre-Leuba movements themselves.
The bi-metallic ERI (Embedded Running Indicator, white circle left) counter is coupled to the seconds hand and stamped with an hourglass, the brand’s traditional symbol. Partially hidden and enlivening the dial, this function reflects the duality of the conjunction of Mercury and Venus in the year Favre-Leuba was founded and symbolises the vitality and inner life of the watch.
The Mercury collection is equipped with Favre-Leuba’s innovative, patented Bidirectional Crown Locking System (B/CLS, white circle right), which has been designed to prevent any accidental manipulation of the crown and thereby unintentionally changing the date or time. It actually comprises two crowns: an inner crown, which is first turned either clockwise or anti-clockwise to unlock the system, and an outer crown which can then be pulled out to set the date or time.
A red marker on the bridge between the two crowns indicates when the system is unlocked. Another innovation enables the movement to be wound by hand regardless of the position of the B/CLS. Water-resistance is guaranteed even when the system is unlocked with the outer crown pulled out to its setting position.
Mercury Big date FL 302 Technical details
Movement: Self-winding mechanical movement, calibre FL302, 28,800 vib/h, 26 jewels, 175 components; Power reserve of 44 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, big date; Patented Embedded Running Indicator (ERI)
Case: Pink Gold (18K) or Stainless steel; Diameter: 41 mm; Cambered sapphire glass with anti-reflection coating; Patented Bidirectional / Crown Locking System (B/CLS); Screwed in caseback and bezel; Water-resistant to 100 meters
Dial: Multilayer construction Galvanic treatment and guilloché on gold models; Hands and indexes applied in gold (18K) with superluminova
Straps: Genuine alligator, folding clasp in gold (18K) or in steel with twin safety lock system.
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