Breguet Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 (New Model in Rose Gold Case with Slate-Gray Dial in Gold)

Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 combines the bold and sporty aesthetic that has always marked the Breguet Marine line with a highly complicated movement and the finest hand decoration. Now Breguet offers this model in rose gold with a gold dial in slate-gray color.

Breguet Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 (New Model in Rose Gold Case with Slate-Gray Dial in Gold)

The Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 merges three threads from Breguet’s history. First, its legacy of the invention of the tourbillon, patented by founder Abraham Louis Breguet in 1801. Important as well is its unparalleled patrimony in the field of complicated watches: Marine 5887 includes, in addition to the latest generation tourbillon, a perpetual calendar and an equation of time.

Breguet Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 (New Model in Rose Gold Case with Slate-Gray Dial in Gold)

Third, by uniting these two historic pillars of the house in a Marine timepiece, Breguet recalls the founder’s appointment in 1815 by the King of France, Louis XVIII as Horloger de la Marine Royale, which made him the official watchmaker of the French Navy.

Breguet Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 (New Model in Rose Gold Case with Slate-Gray Dial in Gold)

Emphasizing the link between the Marine line and the sea is a guilloche-peaked wave motif in the center of the dial. The applied Roman numerals as well as the Breguet moon-tipped hands are in rose gold.

On the back, a depiction of an ancient flagship of the French Navy, the Royal Louis, has been hand carved across the bridges of the movement. The entirety of the vessel reaches across four bridges and fine details extend from one bridge to another. This calls for extreme precision in placement so that the elements of the image will line up perfectly once the movement is mounted.

Breguet Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 (New Model in Rose Gold Case with Slate-Gray Dial in Gold)

The barrel drum bears an illustration of a compass rose also engraved by hand. The peripheral oscillating weight in platinum, engine-turned and engraved with the Breguet legend, allows for a fully unobstructed view of the movement’s artwork.

The Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante includes two minute hands, a traditional civil minute hand and a second minute hand showing solar time directly.

At the heart of the movement is a cam on a sapphire disc that completes a full rotation per year faithfully duplicating the equation of time cycle. This transparent disc, with months of the year marked along its perimeter, allows one to see the tourbillon located underneath. The mechanism is completed with a set of gears called a “differential”. The genius of a differential is that it is able to combine two separate inputs into one output.

Breguet Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 (New Model in Rose Gold Case with Slate-Gray Dial in Gold)

The civil minutes indication is produced by the main gear train of the watch. The equation of time information is read by the finger following the cam’s form. Thus, the differential, in effect, performs the formula for calculating solar time (civil time plus equation of time) which is displayed by the solar minute hand. With two minute hands, the owner at a glance can read civil time and solar time.

The running equation of time display of this Marine model is paired with a perpetual calendar. The movement accounts for all of the irregularities of the four-year calendar cycle, the months of 30 or 31 days, and the month of February of 28 or 29 days during the leap year. The calendar display is unique among Breguet collections and embodies a newly constructed mechanism. Rather than with hands, the day of the week and the month are shown in small windows. The date is indicated with a hand known as “retrograde”. This hand advances along an arc until the end of the month, when in the middle of the night, it will reverse course and instantaneously snap back to “1” to start the next month.

Breguet Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 (New Model in Rose Gold Case with Slate-Gray Dial in Gold)

The movement of this Grande Complication model is derived from the extra-thin self-winding tourbillon caliber 581. The basic notions of tourbillon design rooted in Abraham Louis Breguet’s patent remain unchanged: the timekeeping elements of the watch, its balance wheel, spiral, and the escapement, are placed within a carriage that makes one rotation per minute so as to cancel out rate errors resulting from gravitational forces.

Breguet Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 (New Model in Rose Gold Case with Slate-Gray Dial in Gold)

Modern technology played a prominent role, as well, in the tourbillon design as the carriage is made of titanium and the balance wheel’s spiral as well as the escape wheel are fashioned in silicon. As the tourbillon mechanism has been redesigned, the cage is driven by a peripheral gear. The tourbillon and the sum of its components seemingly fly in space.

The mainspring barrel was not overlooked in the quest to reduce thickness. By creating a groove around the barrel drum, held in place by three bearing assemblies located outside of it, Breguet’s designers were able to reduce thickness by 25%. The power reserve, to match with the other indications on the dial, is shown by gauge-type indicator at VIII o’clock.

Technical details

Model: Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887
REF. 5887BR/G2/9WV

Case
18-carat rose gold with fluted caseband
Sapphire-crystal caseback
Diameter: 43.9 millimeters
Thickness: 11.75 millimeters.
Water-resistant to 10 bar (100 meters)

Dial
Slate-gray dial in gold, engine-turned by hand
Individually numbered and signed Breguet
Hours chapter with Roman numerals in 18-carat rose gold and luminescent dots
Faceted Breguet moon-tipped hands in 18-carat rose gold with luminescent material
Solar minute hand with a faceted golden sun
Day windows between 10 and 11 o’clock
Month and year windows between 1 and 2 o’clock
Retrograde date on a circular arc running from 9 to 3 o’clock
Power-reserve indicator in a window between 7 and 9 o’clock

Movement
Caliber 581DPE
Mechanical self-winding movement with a peripheral oscillating weight, tourbillon, running equation of time, perpetual calendar, and an 80- hour power reserve
563 components
16¾ lignes
57 jewels
Numbered and signed Breguet
Small seconds and equation of time cam on the tourbillon axis
Silicon escape wheel and inverted lateral lever with silicon horns
Silicon balance spring
Frequency: 4 hertz
Adjusted in 6 positions

Strap
Brown alligator leather strap with rose gold triple folding buckle

Vacheron Constantin “La Musique du Temps®” Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-seconds Chronograph – Tempo

Vacheron Constantin presents a one-of-a-kind grand complication timepiece powered by a new Manufacture calibre with a total of 24 horological complications.

A double-sided watch, “La Musique du Temps®” Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-seconds Chronograph – Tempo is one of the most complicated wristwatches ever produced by the Maison. This creation belongs to “La Musique du Temps®»: an array of one-of-a-kind timepieces produced in Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers department as a tribute to the art of music.

This one-of-a-kind double-sided timepiece displays the chronograph hours and measurements on the front, along with a perpetual calendar. The back is dedicated to astronomical functions, including indications of solar time, equation of time, sunrise and sunset, day and night duration, as well as the age and phase of the moon. This watch featuring a tourbillon regulator is also equipped with a minute repeater. A total of 24 perfectly legible complications are orchestrated by the new in-house 1,163- part 2756 calibre.

Chiming watches hold a special place within the world of horological complications. For more than two centuries, these complex mechanical devices have been given pride of place by Vacheron Constantin. In 2019, the Maison’s Les Cabinotiers department chose to pay tribute to them through one-of-a-kind models grouped under the theme “La Musique du Temps®».

Vacheron Constantin “La Musique du Temps®” Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-seconds Chronograph – Tempo

Les Cabinotiers split-seconds chronograph – Tempo is the crowning embodiment of this approach. In addition to the minute repeater function, which involves a «musical» structure that must take into account the positioning of the gongs and their harmonious sound when struck, the front side also displays timekeeping and calendar indications in addition to the split-seconds chronograph. The perpetual calendar indications are provided by the two lower subdials: one for the day and date, the other for the month and leap year.

Vacheron Constantin “La Musique du Temps®” Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-seconds Chronograph – Tempo

The symmetrically placed upper subdials are dedicated to marking off time. The hours appear on the left hand subdial with an inner 24-hour disc that can be used to display a second time zone; while the right hand subdial shows the minutes on the outer disc and carries the chronograph 30-minute counter on the inner disc. Given that the chronograph is doubtless one of the most complex horological complications to be integrated into a calibre, the watchmakers of the Maison wanted to express the true measure of its nobility by creating a split-seconds chronograph equipped with a column wheel.

The split-seconds system with two central hands enables intermediate (split) times to be calculated by stopping one of the two hands which, once restarted, «catches up» with the first. With these initial functions, however, the 1,163-component 2756 calibre has revealed only half of its technical prowess.

The timepiece must be turned over to reveal the full scope of this accomplishment. With its perfectly symmetrical case and thanks to the ingenious removable strap attachment system, Les Cabinotiers split-seconds chronograph is perfectly reversible and can be worn on either side, according to the mood of the moment.

On the reverse watch face, the central hands, including the minutes hand with the sun symbol, indicate true solar time. Based on the apparent displacement of the Sun, the latter differs from civil time due to the inclination of the Earth’s axis and the eccentricity of the Earth’s orbit. Mean solar time – the civil time that punctuates our daily lives – and true solar time coincide only four times a year, with maximal variations ranging from -16 minutes and 23 seconds to +14 minutes and 22 seconds.

Vacheron Constantin “La Musique du Temps®” Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-seconds Chronograph – Tempo

The difference is what is known as the equation of time, which, on this timepiece, is of the “running” variety, given the simultaneous nature of the two readings of time on either side of the watch. This information is complemented by indications of sunrise and sunset times as well as the duration of day and night, respectively positioned at 3 and 9 o’clock.

The lowest part of the dial features a display of the age and phase of the moon by means of a retrograde hand sweeping over a semi-circular subdial. Here too, watchmakers have not taken the easy path with this high-precision moon-phase display, which requires only one correction every 1,000 years. To ensure the visual harmony of this second dial, the tourbillon is majestically enthroned at 12 o’clock with its carriage shaped like a Maltese cross – the emblem of the Maison – topped by the central pointer-type power reserve indicator.

Vacheron Constantin “La Musique du Temps®” Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-seconds Chronograph – Tempo

This timepiece with its multiple functions and displays represents an authentic watchmaking challenge.

Firstly, on a technical level, with this calibre developed by the same team as that behind Reference 57260 and in which the smallest detail has been taken into consideration. Witness the split-seconds lifting lever, designed to save energy for a timepiece that thus enjoys a remarkable power reserve of 65 hours and still lasting up to 40 hours even with the chronograph activated.

Secondly, in order to ensure perfect legibility of the two slate grey dials with sunray and guilloché finishes around the circumference. It was indeed the aesthetic options linked to the display that dictated the construction of the calibre within a multidisciplinary approach. The result is an exceptional watch whose generous 50-millimetre diameter and 21-millimetre thickness are softened by the curves of the pink gold case. The alligator leather strap sets the finishing touch to the aesthetic appeal of this watch.

Les Cabinotiers: one-of-a-kind creations

In the Vacheron Constantin universe, Les Cabinotiers represents a department in its own right dedicated to the personalisation of models and to unique creations. This tradition dates back to the 18th century, a time when master watchmakers were called cabinotiers and worked in ateliers bathed in natural light, known as cabinets and located on the top floors of Geneva’s buildings. In the hands of these learned artisans, open to the new ideas of the Enlightenment, exceptional timepieces were born, inspired by astronomy, mechanical engineering and the arts. This expertise, which constitutes the great Geneva watchmaking tradition, has been flowing through Vacheron Constantin’s veins since 1755.

Vacheron Constantin and chiming watches

Chiming watches occupy a special place among horological complications. For more than two centuries, these complex mechanisms have been highlighted by Vacheron Constantin. Today, Les Cabinotiers department has chosen to pay tribute to them through one-of-a-kind creations on the theme “La Musique du temps®”.

Born from the need to tell the time in the dark in an age when people had to rely on candlelight, chiming watches have taken various forms: repeating on demand the hours, quarters or half-quarters, as well as the minutes depending on the versions; Grande and Petite Sonnerie (sounding the hours and quarters in passing, with or without repeating the hour on each quarter) ; and finally those with an alarm (programmable chime). While each of these complications has its own distinctive characteristics, they all combine an integrated and complex mechanism with the finely crafted nature of musical instruments in terms of their resonance, acoustics and harmonics. Featuring watch cases equipped with complex movements as their only means of musical expression, these creations represent a magnificent feat of miniaturisation.

At Vacheron Constantin, the first mention of a chiming watch dates back to 1806: a gold repeater pocket watch registered by the founder’s grandson Jacques Barthélemi Vacheron, in the very first production register kept in the company’s archives. Ever since, sonnerie or repeater watches have been an integral part of the Manufacture’s proud heritage, steadily enriched over the decades.

A sound print certified by Abbey Road Studios

Sound and music have always played a role in the Maison’s partnerships, the latest of which is with Abbey Road Studios, a name closely associated with iconic artists such as The Beatles, Adele and Oasis. In collaboration with the studios, Vacheron Constantin launched its Fiftysix® collection, backed by the “One of not Many” campaign. The partnership also has a role to play for “La musique du Temps””, as Vacheron Constantin entrusts Abbey Road Studios with recording the unique sound of each model.

For the first time, the repeater watches from “La Musique du Temps®” range have a unique sound print, recorded and certified by Abbey Road Studios.

Technical details

Collection: “La Musique du Temps®”, Les Cabinotiers: one-of-a-kind creations
Model: Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-seconds chronograph – Tempo
Reference 9740C/000R-B692

Movement
Calibre 2756
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin mechanical manual-winding
33.3 mm (14 ¾’’’) diameter, 16.35 mm thick
Movement power reserve: approximately 65 hours
2.5 Hz (18,800 vibrations/hour)
1,163 components
40 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications

  • Front: Off-centre hours and minutes – Minute repeater (hours, quarters and minutes on demand) – 2nd time zone / 24H time zone – 30-minute counter chronograph – Split-second chronograph – Perpetual calendar (date, day, month and leap year)
  • Back: Regulator tourbillon – Retrograde phase and age of the moon – Running equation of time – Sunrise and sunset time – Day / Night length – Power reserve indication

Case
18K 5N pink gold
50 mm de diameter, 21 mm thick

Dial
Sunray slate opaline for the upper central part
Guilloché central ring
Sunray slate grey external ring
White painted indications

Strap
Brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
18K 5N pink gold folding clasp and 18K 5N pink gold buckle; Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Presentation box & accessory
Les Cabinotiers model

Rarity
One-of-a-kind timepiece
”Pièce unique” and “Les Cabinotiers” inscriptions engraved between the lugs of the timepiece

Greubel Forsey QP À ÉQUATION in 5N Red Gold Millesime with Chocolate Gold Dial

Following the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) award for the best Calendar Prize, Greubel Forsey presents its QP à Équation in a 5N red gold millesime with a chocolate coloured gold dial.

This reinvention of the perpetual calendar integrates the Equation of Time into the perpetual calendar, as well as bringing practical new functions and indications that improve clarity. The priority was to simplify a complete perpetual calendar display and yet make it much easier to set by simply using the bidirectional crown. Despite the numerous indications and functions, Greubel Forsey’s Mechanical Computer is as easy to set as a simple date feature.

Greubel Forsey QP À ÉQUATION in 5N Red Gold Millesime with Chocolate Gold Dial

To meet this technical challenge Greubel Forsey invented a sophisticated coding mechanism: the patented Mechanical Computer. A stack of cams with movable fingers shift the indications on the dial and caseback of the timepiece and the complete mechanism is fully integrated within the movement. The month’s cam changes the month, displayed in a window on the front and also moves the Equation of Time disc on the back. The years’ cam controls the leap year indication on the front and also the millesime and seasons on the back. The development of this coding device not only overturns the conventional way of setting the indications but also displays them simultaneously on both dial and caseback.

Greubel Forsey QP À ÉQUATION in 5N Red Gold Millesime with Chocolate Gold Dia

Just a glance at the calendar display clearly reveals the three in-line windows that clearly indicate the day, the date and the month. The large date makes the calendar extremely legible.

The dial side of the QP à Équation indicates leap years, the 24 hours of the day and night, the day of the week, the large date, the month, the hours, the minutes and the seconds, as well as the 72-hour chronometric power reserve. On the movement side, this timepiece displays the Equation of Time with the months, seasons, solstices and equinoxes, as well as the calendar year.

Greubel Forsey QP À ÉQUATION in 5N Red Gold Millesime with Chocolate Gold Dial

Horology seeks to measure time as regularly as possible; however the Earth orbits the Sun in an elliptical path. As the Earth sweeps close past the Sun, the period between successive solar zeniths, or the solar day’s length, changes. This causes the two sides showing 15 indications difference between solar time and mean time to vary from a few seconds to as much as 16 minutes during the year. The Equation of Time is the conversion factor between solar and mean time. To read solar time, simply look at the back subdial for the displayed date’s Equation of Time.

Its case back showcases fine hand finishing, and also provides a new way to tell the time. The most frequently sought calendar information, namely the day, date and month, is displayed on the inline main dial display. Information that is less often required is visible on the back of the timepiece. Thus the two sides show indications that you need to know regularly on the front, and indications accessed less frequently on the back.

Greubel Forsey QP À ÉQUATION in 5N Red Gold Millesime with Chocolate Gold Dial

The timekeeping performance comes from Greubel Forsey’s third invention: the Tourbillon 24 Secondes, with its unique fast rotational speed and inclined angle to solve the problem of critical positions of the oscillator in relation to gravity. A 25° angle and the rapid revolution of the tourbillon cage significantly improve the chronometric performance of a system containing only one tourbillon, especially in stable positions.

The multi-level chocolate-coloured gold dial of this millesime edition timepiece contrasts harmoniously with the 5N red gold case and underlines the intuitive linear calendar display.

Technical details

Model: QP à Équation
In 5N red gold – Millésimé
Chocolate-coloured dial

Movement
Hand-wound movement with 4 patents
Bidirectional perpetual calendar • day, date, month, calendar year, leap year, day/night • equation of time with month, season, solstice and equinox • function selector •
Tourbillon 24 Secondes • hours and minutes • small seconds • power-reserve

Movement dimensions
• Diameter: 36.40 mm
• Thickness: 9.60 mm

Number of parts
• Movement: 624 parts
• Tourbillon cage: 86 parts
• Weight of the cage: 0.37 g

Number of jewels
• 75
• Olived-domed jewels in gold chatons

Chronometric power reserve
• 72 hours

Barrels
• Two coaxial series-coupled fast-rotating barrels (1 turn in 3.2 hours), one of which is equipped with a slipping spring to avoid excess tension

Balance wheel
• Variable-inertia with gold mean-time screws (10 mm diameter)

Frequency
• 21’600 vibrations/hour

Balance spring
• Phillips terminal curve
• Geneva-style stud

Main plates
• Nickel silver, frosted and spotted with polished bevelling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks, nickel-palladium treatment

Bridges
• Nickel silver, frosted and spotted, with polished bevelling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks, nickel-palladium treatment
• 4 engraved gold plates, one with the individual number
• Flat black polished steel tourbillon bridges
• Synthetic sapphire mechanical computer bridge

Tourbillon
• Inclined at a 25° angle, 24-seconds rotation
• Light alloy cage pillars
• Titanium cage bridges
• Gold counterweight

Gearing
• Involute circle profile
• Tangential inclined gear on fixed wheel and profiled teeth on escape wheel pinion

Dial displays
Hours and minutes
Small seconds
72-hours power reserve on a sector
Day of the week, large date and month
Leap year
Day-and-night with red safety zone
Function selection (perpetual calendar or H/M time adjustment)

Back displays
Equation of time with month, season, solstice and equinox
Calendar year

Case
In 5N red gold with asymmetrical convex synthetic sapphire crystal
Diameter: 43.50 mm
Height: 16.00 mm
Transparent back with asymmetrical synthetic sapphire crystal
Three-dimensional, variable geometry-shaped lugs
Raised polished engraving “QP à Équation” and “Greubel Forsey” on a hand-punched background
Gold security screws
Polished bezel, caseband with hand-finished straight graining
Hand-engraved individual number
Water resistance of the case: 3 atm – 30 m – 100 ft (standard NIHS 92-20/SN ISO 22810:2010)

Crown
In 5N red gold with engraved GF logo

Dial
Multi-level gold dial, chocolate-coloured
Gold hour markers
Small second, power-reserve
Leap year in polished steel, black treatment
Gold perpetual calendar aperture with polished raised engraving
Gold GF logo

Hands
Hours and minutes in polished gold with Super-LumiNova
Small seconds, power-reserve in polished gold
Leap year in polished steel, black treatment

Strap and clasp
Hand-sewn alligator
5N red gold folding clasp, hand-engraved with the GF logo

 

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Phoenix

As a preview of the upcoming SIHH 2019 haute-horlogerie exhibition, Vacheron Constantin presents Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Phoenix, a one-of-a-kind twin-dial model created by the watchmakers of the Les Cabinotiers Department.

Equipped with the famous Calibre 2755, a manual wound movement dedicated to grand complications, this timepiece incorporated 15 horological complications including a minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar and equation of time.

The “Cabinotiers”, is the name given to the prestigious and cultivated watchmakers who worked in workshops on the top floors of Geneva’s buildings. The expertise of these accomplished masters was backed by vast scientific knowledge, fired by a curiosity for new ideas and nurtured by the philosophy of the Enlightenment. Their deft hands craft exceptional timepieces of rare technical and aesthetic complexity, inspired by astronomy, science and the arts.

Vacheron Constantin continues to take on these highly technical and creative challenges within its Les Cabinotiers department, which gives rise to one-of-a-kind models intended for clients and collectors, along with specifically commissioned bespoke timepieces. Engineers, designers, watchmakers and craftsmen unite their imagination, expertise and passion in bringing this extremely refined watchmaking excellence to life.

Taking its named from the legendary phoenix bird, this watch boasts 15 complications. Visible on both sides of the watch, an array of indications – including perpetual calendar, equation of time, sunrise and sunset, sky chart, seasons, signs of the zodiac, age and phase of the moon, solstices, sidereal hours and minutes, power – endow it with nobility and prestige. A minute repeater and a tourbillon complete this exceptional list of functions. The watchmakers of the Les Cabinotiers department have succeeded in accommodating all these functions within the limited space of the case by maximum miniaturisation of all components, while preserving their reliability.

The numerals and hands stand out clearly against the slate-grey colour of the two dials on either side of the watch, beautifully offsetting the pink gold case. The optimal legibility of this complex model is also ensured by the layout of the additional counters and the various time indications.

The Calibre 2755 powering this extremely complicated watch is movement endowed with a 58-hour power reserve.

Epitomising a subtle balance between innovation and the transmission of ancestral skills, this exceptional model also pays tribute to a pair of engraving art techniques that few artisans still master: pounced ornament – or bas-relief – for the case-band; and fine line engraving for the bezel and case-back. Given the extreme care lavished on details that constitutes a Vacheron Constantin signature, the wings of the legendary Phoenix bird appear to be literally ready to unfurl on the case-band, while the movement of its slim neck extends elegantly and gracefully to the very tip of its beak.

Technical details

Model: Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Phoenix
Reference: 9700C/003R-B187 – Hallmark of Geneva

Movement
Caliber 2755
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin – Mechanical, manual-winding – 33.9 mm diameter,
12.15 mm thick – Approximately 58 hours of power reserve – 2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour) – 839 components
40 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes, Small second at 6 o’clock on tourbillon carriage

15 complications:
1. Minute repeater
2. Tourbillon
3-6. Perpetual calendar (date, day of the week, month, leap year)
7. Power reserve
8. Equation of time
9. Sunrise time
10. Sunset time
11. Sky chart
12. Age and phases of the moon
13. Sidereal hours and minutes
14. Seasons, zodiac signs
15. Striking mechanism torque

Setting
Hours and minutes adjustment: winding crown (2 positions) – Moon phase adjustment: correction push-piece on the case – Perpetual calendar adjustment: two correction push-pieces on the case – Sky chart adjustment: with crown and screwed-down push-piece

Case
18K 5N pink gold with case-band hand-engraved with “Phoenix” sculpture, bezel and case back handengraved with an ornamental pattern – 47 mm diameter, 19.10 mm thick

Dials
(Face & back side) Slate-grey opaline dials – 18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers – 18K 5N pink gold hands

Strap
Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-fnish, large square scales

Buckle
18K 5N pink gold folding clasp and buckle hand-engraved with an ornamental pattern
Half Maltese cross-shaped

Box
Prestige winder box made of Makassar ebony wood

Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen, a magnifying glass

Edition
Unique timepiece, « Les Cabinotiers », « Pièce unique », « AC » hallmark engraved on caseback

Blancpain Equation du Temps Marchante – The World’s First Running Equation of Time Watch (2004)

The running equation of time (“Equation du Temps Marchante”) watch by Blancpain was debuted in 2004. This limited edition of 50 pieces features two equation of time displays, the running solar minutes-hand (bearing a sun) and a plus/minus display at 2 o’clock. An equation of time display ties the watch to the cycles of the sun, complete with a hand-carved rotor depicting the sun (in gold), moon and stars.

Blancpain Equation du Temps Marchante - The World's First  Running Equation of Time Watch (2004)

In the history of fine watchmaking, perhaps the most mystical and precious complication of all has been the equation of time. An equation of time display ties the watch to the cycle of the sun. For convenience, humans have defined the day to be exactly 24 hours in length.

Faithful to that definition, watches from the most humble inexpensive quartz watch to the most prized mechanical marvel measure time according to that defined standard. In reality, however, the defined 24-hour day is a convenience, an average, that serves most purposes well but does not correspond exactly to the actual length of a solar day. Because the earth’s orbit is not exactly round and because the earth’s axis of rotation is inclined by 23 degrees, the actual solar day may be several minutes longer or shorter, depending on the time of year, than 24 hours.

The difference between the length of the actual solar day, termed “solar time”, and the 24-hour day, termed “civil time”, is called the equation of time. The accumulated differences between civil time and solar time can be as much as +14 minutes and –16 minutes; on four days per year the errors catch up and the solar time and civil time correspond exactly.

Two centuries ago, fascination with the sun and this phenomenon of a day which varies in length inspired watch and clockmakers to record this time difference, the equation of time, on the face of a timepiece. Since then the equation complication has been reserved for only the most important watches and clocks. In the early development of equation of time movements, two methods of recording the time difference were conceived. The more simple of the two is a display of the difference between solar and civil time on a plus/minus scale. Far more complicated was the second, an équation marchante movement.

With the équation marchante or “running equation” movement, a second minutes-hand is added indicating solar time. This offers the advantage that the solar time can be directly read from the face of the watch. The difference can also be discerned from the difference between the solar minutes hand and the conventional civil minutes-hand. Equation of time displays in wristwatches have always been extraordinarily rare and, following the tradition developed over two centuries with pocket watches and clocks, they have been incorporated in only the most refined of timepieces. However, working in the small dimensions of a wristwatch, the equation complication has, until now, only been of the more simplified plus/minus scale variety.

In 2004, Blancpain debuted a revolutionary equation of time watch, the Equation du Temps Marchante. Blancpain’s watchmakers undertook to bring to wristwatches, for the first time, the rare and difficult running equation complication that had existed only in large clocks and pocket watches. To do this they had to design an innovative gear train, with an ingenious differential that combines the running of the equation gear train controlled by a complex-shaped cam and the running train of the watch’s civil minutes-hand, to drive the running equation hand. In addition, Calibre 3863 provides a plus/minus scale equation display.

Blancpain Equation du Temps Marchante - The World's First  Running Equation of Time Watch (2004)

There is extraordinary complexity in the calendar mechanism of Calibre 3863, which must combine a perpetual calendar with the equation of time train and the normal minute train of the watch. A patented differential system was specially developed for the watch. Of particular interest, at 6 o’clock, is the ellipsoidal wheel which calculates the length of the solar day according to month.

Blancpain Equation du Temps Marchante - The World's First  Running Equation of Time Watch (2004)

As befits this extraordinary wristwatch, Blancpain combined these two separate equation displays with an innovative retrograde moon phase indication and a complete perpetual calendar. The decoration of the movement celebrates this achievement with a special hand carving of the bridges and a meticulously hand-fashioned winding rotor bearing an artist’s image of the sun.

Panerai L’Astronomo – Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT 50mm

The Astronomo – Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT is the first of Officine Panerai’s creations to have moon phase indication and an innovative system using polarised crystals to indicate the date. This watch pays tribute to Galileo Galilei.

The first Panerai L’Astronomo, presented in 2010 on the occasion of the 400th anniversary of the celestial observations made by Galileo as a result of the invention of the telescope, was the first timepiece created by Panerai with a tourbillon regulator, calendar, equation of time indication and the display of the times of sunrise and sunset.

Panerai L’Astronomo - Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT 50mm

Like its predecessor, the new L’Astronomo – Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT is made to order, and the skeletonised movement, the P.2005/GLS (standing for Galileo Luna Scheletrato), is personalised to operate in accordance with the geographical coordinates of a place chosen by the client.

It provides the same range of remarkable functions as the first L’Astronomo, and in addition, GMT and two other innovations: indication of the phases of the moon and an original system for displaying the date using polarised crystals.

Panerai L’Astronomo - Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT 50mm

Thanks to the invention of the telescope, Galileo made revolutionary discoveries concerning the appearance and the movement of the moon. He made remarkably beautiful drawings of what he saw with an accuracy and attention to detail which is still amazing even today.

So in a timepiece dedicated to him, nothing would be more logical than moon phase indication, a classic complication of high quality watchmaking which Panerai has interpreted in its own way and with an accuracy of a century.

Panerai L’Astronomo - Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT 50mm

On the back of the new L’Astronomo’s P.2005/GLS movement is a day/night indicator which also clearly displays the phases of the moon, by means of a system consisting of two superimposed discs which rotate in combination. The upper disc – which is read by a small external index fixed onto the movement – displays the 24 hours of the day, showing the sun during the hours of daylight and the stars of the sky at night.

Panerai L’Astronomo - Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT 50mm

At the centre of the starry sky is a little round window through which the lower disc can be seen; on this appears the moon, its shape evolving day by day as a result of a small supplementary rotation of this disc of about 6.1° per day, a figure based on the exact duration of one lunar cycle (an average of 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 3 seconds).

Panerai L’Astronomo - Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT 50mm

Given that each watch movement is made according to the coordinates of a place chosen by the watch’s owner, the indication of the moon phases always relates to the sky above that place, and of course it also takes account of the difference between the earth’s northern and southern hemispheres.

Panerai L’Astronomo - Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT 50mm

Like the moon phase indicator, the indicators of sunrise and sunset times are connected to home time and therefore, if the owner of the watch should find himself in a city with a different time zone from that of the chosen city, these indicators will continue to show the situation at the time at home, which is indicated by the GMT hand.

Panerai L’Astronomo - Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT 50mm

Finally, at six o’clock is the linear indicator of the equation of time, which displays the difference between actual time (solar time) and conventional time on each day, this period ranging between plus 15 minutes and minus 15 minutes, according to the time of year.

Panerai L’Astronomo - Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT 50mm

As well as the moon phase indicator, the hand-wound P.2005/GLS calibre also has the characteristic Panerai tourbillon escapement, which can be admired both from the front as well as from the back of the watch thanks the sophisticated work of skeletonising the movement and the absence of an actual dial.

All the elements which would be found in a traditional dial appear on the movement or the flange, and the two spring barrels, which store enough power to last at least four days, are visible through the open back, which also enables the power reserve indicator mounted on the movement to be read.

Panerai L’Astronomo - Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT 50mm

In a watch with this construction, a date disc designed in the traditional way would to some extent conceal the fascination of the skeletonised movement, because it would cover part of the components.

The Laboratorio di Idee at the Manufacture in Neuchâtel has therefore designed an innovative system – pending patent by Panerai – in which the date disc is made of borosilicate glass and the numbers of the days have laser-modified optical properties. The numbers are virtually invisible in all positions except for the one that is aligned with the little date window, where a further polarized crystal, situated above the date disc, causes the number to appear so that it is perfectly legible.

In the Tourbillon Regulator system patented by Panerai, the tourbillon’s rotation is different from that of the classic tourbillon. The cage of the balance rotates continuously on itself, to correct any alterations caused by gravity and possible friction. In this innovative mechanism patented by Panerai, the cage rotates on an axis at right angles to the balance, not parallel with it.

Also, while the traditional tourbillon rotates once in one minute, that of the P.2005/GLS rotates once in 30 seconds, and its rotation can be seen by an indicator in the small seconds counter at 9 o’clock. The higher speed and the particular arrangement of the mechanism mean that any possible alterations of rate are effectively compensated, resulting in more accurate timekeeping.

As well as the technical personalisation of the P.2005/GLS movement, the new L’Astronomo Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT also provides the opportunity of selecting the material and finish of the case, the colour of the hands and that of the SuperLumiNova® which makes the watch’s indications extremely readable even in the dark, as well as the colour of the alligator strap.

In this way each client can create an individual watch of great character and elegance, for example choosing between a red gold or a white gold case, or the brushed titanium case of the basic version of the L’Astronomo for a more sporty and functional appearance. In each instance, the watch is water-resistant to 10 bar (a depth of about 100 metres).

Technical details

Model: Luminor Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation Of Time GMT – 50mm L’Astronomo
Reference: PAM00920

Movement
Hand-wound mechanical, P.2005/GLS calibre
Power reserve: 96 H.

Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, month indicator, GMT, power reserve Indicator on the back, equation of time, sunrise/sunset times, moon phases indicator on the back, tourbillon

Case
50 mm, brushed titanium
Water resistance: 10 bar (~ 100 metres)

Suggested retail price
On request

Panerai – Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio, 48mm (PAM00516) & Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio, 47mm (PAM00601)

Panerai unveils two new special edition mechanical wristwatches equipped with one of the most classic and fascinating astronomical complications, the equation of time. Equipped with a hand wound manufacture movement, these timepieces offer an exceptional power reserve up to 8 days.

Panerai Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days (PAM00516)
Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio, 48mm (PAM00516)

The length of one day is derived from the period of one rotation of the Earth and the length of one year corresponds to the period of one revolution of the Earth around the Sun, and for centuries timepieces have been used to place events in a timeframe defined by these phenomena, establishing the universal convention which is time.

There is, however, a difference between convention and reality. Because of the elliptical orbit of the Earth round the Sun and the axial tilt of the Earth’s rotation in relation to the equator, the duration of a day measures exactly 24 hours on only four occasions in one year, while on all other days there is a difference between apparent time (solar time) and conventional time (mean time) which varies between being up to about 15 minutes ahead or behind, depending on the time of year.

This difference, the measurement of which is one of the classic complications of high quality watchmaking, is called the “equation of time” and it is displayed by a linear indicator on the dial of the new Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days and the Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days.

Panerai Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days (PAM00516)
Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio, 48mm (PAM00516)

The inclusion of such a sophisticated complication as the equation of time does not alter the classic Panerai design of the two models, a design inspired directly by the history of the Florentine brand.

 Panerai Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days (PAM00601)
Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio, 47mm (PAM00601)

One of the watches has the Radiomir 1940 case and the other the Luminor 1950 case, the latter being the historical evolution of the former, having the distinctive bridge device with clamping lever which protects the winding crown. Both cases are made of AISI 316L stainless steel – an alloy that is particularly resistant to corrosion – with a polished finish.

 Panerai Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days (PAM00601)
Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio, 47mm (PAM00601)

The dial of both models is black with the classic sandwich structure invented by Panerai in the late 1930s: two superimposed discs contain the luminous substance, the light of which emerges through the holes in it corresponding to the markers on the upper disc, providing a unique tonal depth and high legibility.

 Panerai Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days (PAM00601)

As well as the linear indicator of the equation of time, the dial also contains the seconds counter at nine o’clock, the date window at three o’clock and the circular indicator on which the month can be read.

Panerai Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days (PAM00516)
Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio, 48mm (PAM00516)

On the back of the case is a sapphire crystal window which enables the details and fine finish of the hitherto unissued P.2002/E movement to be admired. This is a hand-wound movement with a diameter of 13¾ lignes, with three spring barrels providing the long power reserve of eight days which has been part of the tradition of the brand since the 1940s.

 Panerai Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days (PAM00601)
Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio, 47mm (PAM00601)

The Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days (PAM00516) and the Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days (PAM00601) are two Special Editions of only 200 and 100 units respectively.

Water-resistant to 10 bar (about 100 metres), they are fitted with an alligator strap, and the model with the Luminor 1950 case is supplied with a screwdriver and the tool for replacing the strap.

Technical details

Model: Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio – 48mm

Panerai Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days (PAM00516)

Reference: PAM00516
Movement: Hand-wound mechanical, P.2002/E calibre
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, month indicator, equation of time, power reserve indicator on the back. CASE: 48 mm, AISI 316L polished steel
Dial: Black with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Date and month indicator at 3 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock, equation of time indicator at 6 o’clock
Power reserve: 192H
Water resistance: 10 bar (~ 100 metres).

Model: Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio – 47mm

 Panerai Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days (PAM00601)
Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio, 47mm (PAM00601)

Reference: PAM00601
Movement: Hand-wound mechanical, P.2002/E calibre
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, month indicator, equation of time, power reserve indicator on the back
Case: 47 mm, AISI 316L polished steel
Dial: Black with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Date and month indicator at 3 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock, equation of time indicator at 6 o’clock
Power reserve: 192H
Water resistance: 10 bar (~ 100 metres)

Antoine Martin Tourbillon Astronomique

This new horology masterpiece developed by Antoine Martin hosts a number of astronomic complications such as Sunrise and sunset display (adjusted to a location of the customer’s choice), Display for the sign of the zodiac and season, Date display, Equation of time display, Retrograde moon with moon phase display and Day and night display on the front side of the dial. The Power reserve display, Declination display, featuring a graphic and the degrees in figures and Polar shadow line functions are displayed on the case back.

With the Antoine Martin Tourbillon Quantième Perpétual launched in 2012, master watchmaker Martin Braun already displayed his expertise and mastery over high horology complications. This fabulous tourbillon had already proved its efficiency and reliability in conjunction with a Perpetual Calendar.

The newly announced Antoine Martin Tourbillon Astronomique is a user friendly astronomical complication. The development team hit upon a solution that enables the sunrise and sunset times, the sign of the zodiac and season, the equation of time and the declination display to be set when the crown is in the rapid-setting position. Only the date and moon phase displays require a correction button.

Antoine Martin Tourbillon Astronomique watch with Sunrise and sunset display, Display for the sign of the zodiac and season, Date display, Equation of time display, Retrograde moon with moon phase display and Day and night display

The sunrise and sunset display
This is Martin Braun’s astronomic display par excellence and has emerged from years of intense study. In purely theoretical terms, sunrise and sunset within a given latitude and a 15°- wide zone of longitude occur at different times for every location, except at the vernal and autumnal equinoxes. For this reason, establishing the correct times for every customer calls for a wealth of complex calculations. The control cams are individually produced on the basis of these calculations before being integrated into the movement. The displays appear in the two subdials at 2 and 4 o’clock, respectively.

Every watch is supplied with a table from which the customer can read off the times for the location of his choice. Since sunrise and sunset occur at the same time twice a year, all we need to know is the current sign of the zodiac or the season.

After pulling the crown out to Position 2 (rapid setting), the user simply turns it to set the times of sunrise and sunset. If he stops turning the time shown in the table during the correct season, the times are automatically synchronized. And that is not all: because the Equation Of Time display and the declination displays synchronize themselves with the polar shadow. This reduces setting of the watch to a minimum and makes the watch particularly easy to use.

The display for the sign of the zodiac and the season
As described above, the main purpose of this display is to simplify setting the system. However, many individuals have a strong affinity to the signs of the zodiac and are deeply fascinated by astronomy. Enormous importance was attached here to the graphical interpretation with its three-dimensional elements. A version with a correct display of the seasons is available for customers who live in the southern hemisphere.

The date
The date display can be found at 1 o’clock. Unfortunately, there was no room for a Perpetual Calendar because the complex control mechanism for the astronomic displays took up all the available space. The mechanism is set using a correction button. Finding a position for the date display was difficult and, ultimately, only possible here. We therefore decided to enlarge the date display and take it into the edge of the glass, which has made it much more legible.

The Equation of Time display
This is one of the classics of astronomic displays. The earth’s orbit of the sun is an ellipse with the Sun at one of the ellipse’s two foci (the First Law of German mathematician and astronomer Johannes Kepler, 1571-1630).

The resultant effect is that the Earth has different relative speeds (Kepler’s Second Law) despite the fact that it completes its rotation in 23 hours and 56 minutes. It is, therefore, possible that when a standard timepiece shows 12 noon, the Sun reached its zenith around 15 minutes earlier; or, conversely, that it will take another 15 minutes or so for it to reach its highest point. As previously mentioned, setting the watch is synchronous with sunrise and sunset times.

The retrograde moon phase and moon phase display
The retrograde moon phase display is another of Martin Braun’s inventions. Space constraints and the tourbillon cage ruled out a conventional rotating moon phase disc. It is replaced here by a semi-transparent shadow that gradually moves across the moon until new moon (i.e. when no crescent is visible).

At this point, the disc changes direction and moves the other way until it reaches full moon. The moon phase display indicates whether the shadow is moving towards full moon, i.e. waxing (+) or towards new moon, waning (-).

The moon disc itself is very natural and realistic-looking. The shadow-like disc does not blot it out entirely but is semitransparent. This means that the contours and craters of the moon are still visible, as in the night sky. The moon itself is handmade of solid sterling silver and depicts all the Moon’s most important craters and seas as naturally as possible. The lively interplay of the individual components leaves conventional moon phase displays far behind.

The day and night display
Graphically adapted to the watch’s layout, the day and night display shows the 24 hours of the day and complements the astronomic displays.

Antoine Martin Tourbillon Astronomique watch with Sunrise and sunset display, Display for the sign of the zodiac and season, Date display, Equation of time display, Retrograde moon with moon phase display and Day and night display

The reverse side of the watch
Here we see the power reserve. Like the Tourbillon with Perpetual Calendar, this too is six days. In the same place, we find a unique plaque, which is made especially for individual customer and shows the geographic coordinates on the basis of which the sunrise and sunset times are calculated and adjusted.

The declination display
The last of the astronomic displays is Declination, which features very rarely in watches of this kind. Expressed simply, a Declination display indicates the latitude at which the sun at 12 noon stands 90° above the horizon and at which a stick standing upright in the ground would cast no shadow.

In other words, the red line moves up and down between the Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn in the course of the year: or between 23.5° northern latitude and -23.5° southern latitude. Declination is required for navigational purposes and is used with right ascension to locate heavenly bodies.

The red line is a graphic depiction of Declination, while the value is shown numerically on the left-hand side of the world map. At the same time, we see the polar shadow; i.e. the area in which the sun does not rise.

The world map is projected onto glass using a special graphic process known as quadrichromy. It is specially prepared and treated to convey a high-quality, three-dimensional impression. As mentioned, the Declination does not need to be set separately but is automatically shown with the sunrise and sunset displays.

The tourbillon mechanism
Technical features of tourbillon mechanism are same as Antoine Martin Tourbillon Quantième Perpétual introduced in 2012.

Technical details

Model: Tourbillon Astronomique TA01.710.1
Price: CHF 500.000.-

Case, dial and strap
Case: rose gold 18K
Brown alligator strap
Silver dial
Deployant buckle rose gold 18 K

Movement
AM 39.003 caliber
– 39.5 mm diameter
– 8.00 mm movement height
– 52 jewels
– 144-hour power reserve
– 18,000 bps
– 428 individual components
– Flying minute tourbillon
– Adjusted in five positions
– High Performance Escapement (HPE)
– KIF shock absorbers
– Silicium pallet lever
– Silicium escape wheel
– Silicium impulse pin, mounted with no play on the balance staff
– Distortion-free stainless-steel tourbillon bridge
– Indexless precision adjustment
– Adjustment via two gold half-round-head screws
– Tourbillon cage poised with two gold rings.
– Precision adjustment for the beat
– Clamped balance spring attachment
– All toothed wheels fitted with sinks (prerequisite for Seal of Geneva)
– Cyclovent teeth
– Torque optimized by use of twin mainsprings
– Indirect gear train drive to uncouple energy from mainspring
– Extra-large 14.1 mm balance for oscillation stabilization
– Pallet lever cam that permits precise adjustment of the backlash, or “run to the banking”.
– Steel bushings for all bridge jewel bearings
– All bearings jewelled
– All bridges with bevelling

Functions
– Hour/minute
– Power reserve display
– 24-hour display
– Sunrise and sunset display, adjusted to location of customer’s choice
– Display for the sign of the zodiac and season
– Date
– Equation of Time display
– Retrograde moon with moon phase display
– Day and night display
– Power reserve display
– Declination display, graphically and in degrees
– Polar shadow line