Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus

January 3, 2022January 8, 2022 MasterHorologer

The single-piece edition Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus combines Vacheron Constantin’s expertise in grand complication watches with its mastery of artistic crafts. This double-sided wristwatch comprises 16 complications, essentially astronomical and calendar-related, powered by Calibre 2755 GC16 with minute repeater and tourbillon. A technical feat housed in an 18K 5N gold case whose middle is sculpted in bas-relief. In tribute to the Roman god of vines and wine, this “Bacchus” watch finds another source of inspiration in Johannes Kepler, resulting in a captivating association between mythology and astronomy.

The 18K 5N pink gold case of this Les Cabinotiers timepiece features a decoration composed of vine leaves interspersed with bunches of ruby grapes. The engraver’s work is complemented by that of the gem-setter on the outside of the case in giving life to figurative motifs, making this watch a piece of fine craftsmanship.

The case decoration continues on the bezel and case-back with a hand engraving depicting vine leaves. The difficulty implied by this intaglio engraving lies in the absence of a border or contour line. Hollowed out across the entire width of the bezel, the garland thus stands alone thanks to the metronomic regularity of the motif. This latter aspect is picked up on the two fastening options – folding clasp and pin buckle.

To create the movement of this highly complicated watch, Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers took the Tour de l’Île as a reference, a timepiece presented in 2005 as a tribute to 250 years of watchmaking expertise cultivated by the Geneva-based Manufacture. In the same spirit, the Les Cabinotiers – Bacchus timepiece combines 16 complications, making it one of the most complex watches produced by the Maison. Its manual winding Calibre 2755 GC16 is equipped with a tourbillon regulator to compensate for the effects of the earth’s gravity on the mechanism.

Featuring a cage shaped like Vacheron Constantin’s signature Maltese cross emblem, the tourbillon completes one full rotation per minute, thus serving as a small seconds indicator. This watch also incorporates a minute repeater chiming the hours, quarters and minutes on demand. To avoid unnecessary noise as well as wear and tear on the mechanism, the striking of the gongs is equipped with an ingenious centripetal flying strike regulator. This perfectly silent device regulates the duration of the musical sequences so as to obtain clear, distinct and regular sounds.

The calendar and astronomical functions play a starring role on both sides of the watch. On the front, where the mechanical ballet of the tourbillon can be admired at 6 o’clock, the perpetual calendar indications are displayed on three counters. Positioned in the upper part of the dial, they respectively show the date, day and month.

Designed to keep track of the Gregorian calendar’s vagaries without any need for adjustment until 2100, this horological complication is further enhanced by the indication of the leap-year cycle. The latter appears in a small aperture next to the hand indicating the torque of the minute repeater mechanism between 1 and 2 o’clock. This striking mechanism power reserve is matched by an indication of the movement power reserve, which can be read by means of a serpentine pointer coaxial with the day of the week hand.

The complex mechanics of this piece also provide an astronomical reading of time representing a tribute to Johannes Kepler (1571-1630), regarded as one of the founders of modern astronomy for having discovered the laws of planetary motion, in perfect agreement with Copernicus’ heliocentric hypotheses. The first astronomical functions thus appear on this same opaline champagne-coloured dial, starting with the equation of time positioned between 10 and 11 o’clock.

As the Earth’s path around the Sun is not circular but elliptical, and since the Earth’s axis is inclined at 24° to the plane of its orbit, the time between two zenith passages of the Sun is not the same throughout the year. This difference between the (true) solar day and the (average) 24-hour civil day ranges from -16 to +14 minutes depending on the time of year and coincides only four times a year. Called the equation of time, or time correction in astronomical language, this differential is displayed by a dedicated pointer, while sunrise and sunset times – adjusted according to a reference city – appear at the bottom of the dial.

The sidereal time display finds its place the back of the watch in the shape of a rotating disc depicting the celestial vault with its constellations observable from the Northern hemisphere. Taking a fixed star in the sky as a reference point, the time required for the Earth to complete a full 360° rotation, or sidereal day, is exactly 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds.

Since the Earth is both spinning on its axis and revolving around the Sun, it takes about four minutes less than a calendar day to return to its point of origin relative to a given star. On this model, the “celestial” disc thus performs a complete rotation according to sidereal time with the time displayed on the periphery, opposite the date appearing on the periphery of the mobile disc.

This same date is read off by a large central hand moving over the fixed outer flange bearing a scale graduated in five-day increments. This hand also indicates the sign of the zodiac, the season and the four dates corresponding to the solstices and equinoxes. Finally, the small central hand indicates the age of the moon.

Comprising 839 parts and measuring a total 33.90 mm in diameter and 12.15 mm thick, this extremely complex movement is endowed with a 58-hour power reserve. It displays all its functions in a perfectly legible manner on both sides. The balance oscillates at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz).

The 47 mm-diameter 18K 5N pink gold case has been specifically designed to provide the best possible sound quality for the minute repeater.

Technical details

Model: Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus
Reference 9700C/000R-B755

Movement
Caliber 2755 GC16
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
33.90 mm diameter, 12.15 mm thick
Approximately 58 hours of power reserve
2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
839 components
42 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Front side: Hours, minutes, small second at 6 o’clock on tourbillon carriage – Minute repeater – Tourbillon – Perpetual calendar (date, day of the week, month, leap year) – Power reserve indication – Equation of time – Sunrise time – Sunset time – Alarm torque indication
Back side: Sky chart – Age and phases of the moon – Sidereal hours and minutes – Seasons, zodiac signs

Crowns and pushers
Setting Hours and minutes adjustment: winding crown (2 positions)
Moon phase adjustment: correction push-piece on the case
Perpetual calendar adjustment: two correction push-pieces on the case
Sky chart adjustment: with crown and screwed-down push-piece

Case
18K 5N pink gold with bezel and back side hand-engraved with “vine leaves” and case band hand-engraved with “vine leaves” and gem-set with 113 rubies for a total weight of approximately 1.84 cts representing bunch of grapes
47 mm diameter, 19.10 mm thick

Dials (face & back side)
Champagne opaline dials
18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers
18K 5N pink gold hands

Strap
Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Buckle: 18K 5N pink gold folding clasp and buckle hand-engraved with a “vine leaves” pattern; Half Maltese cross-shaped

Box
Les Cabinotiers Prestige box

Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen and a magnifying glass
A winder box

Edition
Single-piece edition
« Les Cabinotiers », « Pièce unique », « AC » hallmark engraved on caseback

Breguet Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 (New Model in Rose Gold Case with Slate-Gray Dial in Gold)

July 6, 2020 MasterHorologer

Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 combines the bold and sporty aesthetic that has always marked the Breguet Marine line with a highly complicated movement and the finest hand decoration. Now Breguet offers this model in rose gold with a gold dial in slate-gray color.

The Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 merges three threads from Breguet’s history. First, its legacy of the invention of the tourbillon, patented by founder Abraham Louis Breguet in 1801. Important as well is its unparalleled patrimony in the field of complicated watches: Marine 5887 includes, in addition to the latest generation tourbillon, a perpetual calendar and an equation of time.

Third, by uniting these two historic pillars of the house in a Marine timepiece, Breguet recalls the founder’s appointment in 1815 by the King of France, Louis XVIII as Horloger de la Marine Royale, which made him the official watchmaker of the French Navy.

Emphasizing the link between the Marine line and the sea is a guilloche-peaked wave motif in the center of the dial. The applied Roman numerals as well as the Breguet moon-tipped hands are in rose gold.

On the back, a depiction of an ancient flagship of the French Navy, the Royal Louis, has been hand carved across the bridges of the movement. The entirety of the vessel reaches across four bridges and fine details extend from one bridge to another. This calls for extreme precision in placement so that the elements of the image will line up perfectly once the movement is mounted.

The barrel drum bears an illustration of a compass rose also engraved by hand. The peripheral oscillating weight in platinum, engine-turned and engraved with the Breguet legend, allows for a fully unobstructed view of the movement’s artwork.

The Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante includes two minute hands, a traditional civil minute hand and a second minute hand showing solar time directly.

At the heart of the movement is a cam on a sapphire disc that completes a full rotation per year faithfully duplicating the equation of time cycle. This transparent disc, with months of the year marked along its perimeter, allows one to see the tourbillon located underneath. The mechanism is completed with a set of gears called a “differential”. The genius of a differential is that it is able to combine two separate inputs into one output.

The civil minutes indication is produced by the main gear train of the watch. The equation of time information is read by the finger following the cam’s form. Thus, the differential, in effect, performs the formula for calculating solar time (civil time plus equation of time) which is displayed by the solar minute hand. With two minute hands, the owner at a glance can read civil time and solar time.

The running equation of time display of this Marine model is paired with a perpetual calendar. The movement accounts for all of the irregularities of the four-year calendar cycle, the months of 30 or 31 days, and the month of February of 28 or 29 days during the leap year. The calendar display is unique among Breguet collections and embodies a newly constructed mechanism. Rather than with hands, the day of the week and the month are shown in small windows. The date is indicated with a hand known as “retrograde”. This hand advances along an arc until the end of the month, when in the middle of the night, it will reverse course and instantaneously snap back to “1” to start the next month.

The movement of this Grande Complication model is derived from the extra-thin self-winding tourbillon caliber 581. The basic notions of tourbillon design rooted in Abraham Louis Breguet’s patent remain unchanged: the timekeeping elements of the watch, its balance wheel, spiral, and the escapement, are placed within a carriage that makes one rotation per minute so as to cancel out rate errors resulting from gravitational forces.

Modern technology played a prominent role, as well, in the tourbillon design as the carriage is made of titanium and the balance wheel’s spiral as well as the escape wheel are fashioned in silicon. As the tourbillon mechanism has been redesigned, the cage is driven by a peripheral gear. The tourbillon and the sum of its components seemingly fly in space.

The mainspring barrel was not overlooked in the quest to reduce thickness. By creating a groove around the barrel drum, held in place by three bearing assemblies located outside of it, Breguet’s designers were able to reduce thickness by 25%. The power reserve, to match with the other indications on the dial, is shown by gauge-type indicator at VIII o’clock.

Technical details

Model: Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887
REF. 5887BR/G2/9WV

Case
18-carat rose gold with fluted caseband
Sapphire-crystal caseback
Diameter: 43.9 millimeters
Thickness: 11.75 millimeters.
Water-resistant to 10 bar (100 meters)

Dial
Slate-gray dial in gold, engine-turned by hand
Individually numbered and signed Breguet
Hours chapter with Roman numerals in 18-carat rose gold and luminescent dots
Faceted Breguet moon-tipped hands in 18-carat rose gold with luminescent material
Solar minute hand with a faceted golden sun
Day windows between 10 and 11 o’clock
Month and year windows between 1 and 2 o’clock
Retrograde date on a circular arc running from 9 to 3 o’clock
Power-reserve indicator in a window between 7 and 9 o’clock

Movement
Caliber 581DPE
Mechanical self-winding movement with a peripheral oscillating weight, tourbillon, running equation of time, perpetual calendar, and an 80- hour power reserve
563 components
16¾ lignes
57 jewels
Numbered and signed Breguet
Small seconds and equation of time cam on the tourbillon axis
Silicon escape wheel and inverted lateral lever with silicon horns
Silicon balance spring
Frequency: 4 hertz
Adjusted in 6 positions

Strap
Brown alligator leather strap with rose gold triple folding buckle

Vacheron Constantin “La Musique du Temps®” Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-seconds Chronograph – Tempo

April 28, 2020January 8, 2022 MasterHorologer

Vacheron Constantin presents a one-of-a-kind grand complication timepiece powered by a new Manufacture calibre with a total of 24 horological complications.

A double-sided watch, “La Musique du Temps®” Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-seconds Chronograph – Tempo is one of the most complicated wristwatches ever produced by the Maison. This creation belongs to “La Musique du Temps®»: an array of one-of-a-kind timepieces produced in Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers department as a tribute to the art of music.

This one-of-a-kind double-sided timepiece displays the chronograph hours and measurements on the front, along with a perpetual calendar. The back is dedicated to astronomical functions, including indications of solar time, equation of time, sunrise and sunset, day and night duration, as well as the age and phase of the moon. This watch featuring a tourbillon regulator is also equipped with a minute repeater. A total of 24 perfectly legible complications are orchestrated by the new in-house 1,163- part 2756 calibre.

Chiming watches hold a special place within the world of horological complications. For more than two centuries, these complex mechanical devices have been given pride of place by Vacheron Constantin. In 2019, the Maison’s Les Cabinotiers department chose to pay tribute to them through one-of-a-kind models grouped under the theme “La Musique du Temps®».

Les Cabinotiers split-seconds chronograph – Tempo is the crowning embodiment of this approach. In addition to the minute repeater function, which involves a «musical» structure that must take into account the positioning of the gongs and their harmonious sound when struck, the front side also displays timekeeping and calendar indications in addition to the split-seconds chronograph. The perpetual calendar indications are provided by the two lower subdials: one for the day and date, the other for the month and leap year.

The symmetrically placed upper subdials are dedicated to marking off time. The hours appear on the left hand subdial with an inner 24-hour disc that can be used to display a second time zone; while the right hand subdial shows the minutes on the outer disc and carries the chronograph 30-minute counter on the inner disc. Given that the chronograph is doubtless one of the most complex horological complications to be integrated into a calibre, the watchmakers of the Maison wanted to express the true measure of its nobility by creating a split-seconds chronograph equipped with a column wheel.

The split-seconds system with two central hands enables intermediate (split) times to be calculated by stopping one of the two hands which, once restarted, «catches up» with the first. With these initial functions, however, the 1,163-component 2756 calibre has revealed only half of its technical prowess.

The timepiece must be turned over to reveal the full scope of this accomplishment. With its perfectly symmetrical case and thanks to the ingenious removable strap attachment system, Les Cabinotiers split-seconds chronograph is perfectly reversible and can be worn on either side, according to the mood of the moment.

On the reverse watch face, the central hands, including the minutes hand with the sun symbol, indicate true solar time. Based on the apparent displacement of the Sun, the latter differs from civil time due to the inclination of the Earth’s axis and the eccentricity of the Earth’s orbit. Mean solar time – the civil time that punctuates our daily lives – and true solar time coincide only four times a year, with maximal variations ranging from -16 minutes and 23 seconds to +14 minutes and 22 seconds.

The difference is what is known as the equation of time, which, on this timepiece, is of the “running” variety, given the simultaneous nature of the two readings of time on either side of the watch. This information is complemented by indications of sunrise and sunset times as well as the duration of day and night, respectively positioned at 3 and 9 o’clock.

The lowest part of the dial features a display of the age and phase of the moon by means of a retrograde hand sweeping over a semi-circular subdial. Here too, watchmakers have not taken the easy path with this high-precision moon-phase display, which requires only one correction every 1,000 years. To ensure the visual harmony of this second dial, the tourbillon is majestically enthroned at 12 o’clock with its carriage shaped like a Maltese cross – the emblem of the Maison – topped by the central pointer-type power reserve indicator.

This timepiece with its multiple functions and displays represents an authentic watchmaking challenge.

Firstly, on a technical level, with this calibre developed by the same team as that behind Reference 57260 and in which the smallest detail has been taken into consideration. Witness the split-seconds lifting lever, designed to save energy for a timepiece that thus enjoys a remarkable power reserve of 65 hours and still lasting up to 40 hours even with the chronograph activated.

Secondly, in order to ensure perfect legibility of the two slate grey dials with sunray and guilloché finishes around the circumference. It was indeed the aesthetic options linked to the display that dictated the construction of the calibre within a multidisciplinary approach. The result is an exceptional watch whose generous 50-millimetre diameter and 21-millimetre thickness are softened by the curves of the pink gold case. The alligator leather strap sets the finishing touch to the aesthetic appeal of this watch.

Les Cabinotiers: one-of-a-kind creations

In the Vacheron Constantin universe, Les Cabinotiers represents a department in its own right dedicated to the personalisation of models and to unique creations. This tradition dates back to the 18th century, a time when master watchmakers were called cabinotiers and worked in ateliers bathed in natural light, known as cabinets and located on the top floors of Geneva’s buildings. In the hands of these learned artisans, open to the new ideas of the Enlightenment, exceptional timepieces were born, inspired by astronomy, mechanical engineering and the arts. This expertise, which constitutes the great Geneva watchmaking tradition, has been flowing through Vacheron Constantin’s veins since 1755.

Vacheron Constantin and chiming watches

Chiming watches occupy a special place among horological complications. For more than two centuries, these complex mechanisms have been highlighted by Vacheron Constantin. Today, Les Cabinotiers department has chosen to pay tribute to them through one-of-a-kind creations on the theme “La Musique du temps®”.

Born from the need to tell the time in the dark in an age when people had to rely on candlelight, chiming watches have taken various forms: repeating on demand the hours, quarters or half-quarters, as well as the minutes depending on the versions; Grande and Petite Sonnerie (sounding the hours and quarters in passing, with or without repeating the hour on each quarter) ; and finally those with an alarm (programmable chime). While each of these complications has its own distinctive characteristics, they all combine an integrated and complex mechanism with the finely crafted nature of musical instruments in terms of their resonance, acoustics and harmonics. Featuring watch cases equipped with complex movements as their only means of musical expression, these creations represent a magnificent feat of miniaturisation.

At Vacheron Constantin, the first mention of a chiming watch dates back to 1806: a gold repeater pocket watch registered by the founder’s grandson Jacques Barthélemi Vacheron, in the very first production register kept in the company’s archives. Ever since, sonnerie or repeater watches have been an integral part of the Manufacture’s proud heritage, steadily enriched over the decades.

A sound print certified by Abbey Road Studios

Sound and music have always played a role in the Maison’s partnerships, the latest of which is with Abbey Road Studios, a name closely associated with iconic artists such as The Beatles, Adele and Oasis. In collaboration with the studios, Vacheron Constantin launched its Fiftysix® collection, backed by the “One of not Many” campaign. The partnership also has a role to play for “La musique du Temps””, as Vacheron Constantin entrusts Abbey Road Studios with recording the unique sound of each model.

For the first time, the repeater watches from “La Musique du Temps®” range have a unique sound print, recorded and certified by Abbey Road Studios.

Technical details

Collection: “La Musique du Temps®”, Les Cabinotiers: one-of-a-kind creations
Model: Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-seconds chronograph – Tempo
Reference 9740C/000R-B692

Movement
Calibre 2756
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin mechanical manual-winding
33.3 mm (14 ¾’’’) diameter, 16.35 mm thick
Movement power reserve: approximately 65 hours
2.5 Hz (18,800 vibrations/hour)
1,163 components
40 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications

Front: Off-centre hours and minutes – Minute repeater (hours, quarters and minutes on demand) – 2nd time zone / 24H time zone – 30-minute counter chronograph – Split-second chronograph – Perpetual calendar (date, day, month and leap year)
Back: Regulator tourbillon – Retrograde phase and age of the moon – Running equation of time – Sunrise and sunset time – Day / Night length – Power reserve indication

Case
18K 5N pink gold
50 mm de diameter, 21 mm thick

Dial
Sunray slate opaline for the upper central part
Guilloché central ring
Sunray slate grey external ring
White painted indications

Strap
Brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
18K 5N pink gold folding clasp and 18K 5N pink gold buckle; Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Presentation box & accessory
Les Cabinotiers model

Rarity
One-of-a-kind timepiece
”Pièce unique” and “Les Cabinotiers” inscriptions engraved between the lugs of the timepiece

Greubel Forsey QP À ÉQUATION in 5N Red Gold Millesime with Chocolate Gold Dial

March 21, 2020 MasterHorologer

Following the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) award for the best Calendar Prize, Greubel Forsey presents its QP à Équation in a 5N red gold millesime with a chocolate coloured gold dial.

This reinvention of the perpetual calendar integrates the Equation of Time into the perpetual calendar, as well as bringing practical new functions and indications that improve clarity. The priority was to simplify a complete perpetual calendar display and yet make it much easier to set by simply using the bidirectional crown. Despite the numerous indications and functions, Greubel Forsey’s Mechanical Computer is as easy to set as a simple date feature.

To meet this technical challenge Greubel Forsey invented a sophisticated coding mechanism: the patented Mechanical Computer. A stack of cams with movable fingers shift the indications on the dial and caseback of the timepiece and the complete mechanism is fully integrated within the movement. The month’s cam changes the month, displayed in a window on the front and also moves the Equation of Time disc on the back. The years’ cam controls the leap year indication on the front and also the millesime and seasons on the back. The development of this coding device not only overturns the conventional way of setting the indications but also displays them simultaneously on both dial and caseback.

Just a glance at the calendar display clearly reveals the three in-line windows that clearly indicate the day, the date and the month. The large date makes the calendar extremely legible.

The dial side of the QP à Équation indicates leap years, the 24 hours of the day and night, the day of the week, the large date, the month, the hours, the minutes and the seconds, as well as the 72-hour chronometric power reserve. On the movement side, this timepiece displays the Equation of Time with the months, seasons, solstices and equinoxes, as well as the calendar year.

Horology seeks to measure time as regularly as possible; however the Earth orbits the Sun in an elliptical path. As the Earth sweeps close past the Sun, the period between successive solar zeniths, or the solar day’s length, changes. This causes the two sides showing 15 indications difference between solar time and mean time to vary from a few seconds to as much as 16 minutes during the year. The Equation of Time is the conversion factor between solar and mean time. To read solar time, simply look at the back subdial for the displayed date’s Equation of Time.

Its case back showcases fine hand finishing, and also provides a new way to tell the time. The most frequently sought calendar information, namely the day, date and month, is displayed on the inline main dial display. Information that is less often required is visible on the back of the timepiece. Thus the two sides show indications that you need to know regularly on the front, and indications accessed less frequently on the back.

The timekeeping performance comes from Greubel Forsey’s third invention: the Tourbillon 24 Secondes, with its unique fast rotational speed and inclined angle to solve the problem of critical positions of the oscillator in relation to gravity. A 25° angle and the rapid revolution of the tourbillon cage significantly improve the chronometric performance of a system containing only one tourbillon, especially in stable positions.

The multi-level chocolate-coloured gold dial of this millesime edition timepiece contrasts harmoniously with the 5N red gold case and underlines the intuitive linear calendar display.

Technical details

Model: QP à Équation
In 5N red gold – Millésimé
Chocolate-coloured dial

Movement
Hand-wound movement with 4 patents
Bidirectional perpetual calendar • day, date, month, calendar year, leap year, day/night • equation of time with month, season, solstice and equinox • function selector •
Tourbillon 24 Secondes • hours and minutes • small seconds • power-reserve

Movement dimensions
• Diameter: 36.40 mm
• Thickness: 9.60 mm

Number of parts
• Movement: 624 parts
• Tourbillon cage: 86 parts
• Weight of the cage: 0.37 g

Number of jewels
• 75
• Olived-domed jewels in gold chatons

Chronometric power reserve
• 72 hours

Barrels
• Two coaxial series-coupled fast-rotating barrels (1 turn in 3.2 hours), one of which is equipped with a slipping spring to avoid excess tension

Balance wheel
• Variable-inertia with gold mean-time screws (10 mm diameter)

Frequency
• 21’600 vibrations/hour

Balance spring
• Phillips terminal curve
• Geneva-style stud

Main plates
• Nickel silver, frosted and spotted with polished bevelling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks, nickel-palladium treatment

Bridges
• Nickel silver, frosted and spotted, with polished bevelling and countersinks, straight-grained flanks, nickel-palladium treatment
• 4 engraved gold plates, one with the individual number
• Flat black polished steel tourbillon bridges
• Synthetic sapphire mechanical computer bridge

Tourbillon
• Inclined at a 25° angle, 24-seconds rotation
• Light alloy cage pillars
• Titanium cage bridges
• Gold counterweight

Gearing
• Involute circle profile
• Tangential inclined gear on fixed wheel and profiled teeth on escape wheel pinion

Dial displays
Hours and minutes
Small seconds
72-hours power reserve on a sector
Day of the week, large date and month
Leap year
Day-and-night with red safety zone
Function selection (perpetual calendar or H/M time adjustment)

Back displays
Equation of time with month, season, solstice and equinox
Calendar year

Case
In 5N red gold with asymmetrical convex synthetic sapphire crystal
Diameter: 43.50 mm
Height: 16.00 mm
Transparent back with asymmetrical synthetic sapphire crystal
Three-dimensional, variable geometry-shaped lugs
Raised polished engraving “QP à Équation” and “Greubel Forsey” on a hand-punched background
Gold security screws
Polished bezel, caseband with hand-finished straight graining
Hand-engraved individual number
Water resistance of the case: 3 atm – 30 m – 100 ft (standard NIHS 92-20/SN ISO 22810:2010)

Crown
In 5N red gold with engraved GF logo

Dial
Multi-level gold dial, chocolate-coloured
Gold hour markers
Small second, power-reserve
Leap year in polished steel, black treatment
Gold perpetual calendar aperture with polished raised engraving
Gold GF logo

Hands
Hours and minutes in polished gold with Super-LumiNova
Small seconds, power-reserve in polished gold
Leap year in polished steel, black treatment

Strap and clasp
Hand-sewn alligator
5N red gold folding clasp, hand-engraved with the GF logo

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Phoenix

October 30, 2018January 10, 2022 MasterHorologerLeave a comment

As a preview of the upcoming SIHH 2019 haute-horlogerie exhibition, Vacheron Constantin presents Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Phoenix, a one-of-a-kind twin-dial model created by the watchmakers of the Les Cabinotiers Department.

Equipped with the famous Calibre 2755, a manual wound movement dedicated to grand complications, this timepiece incorporated 15 horological complications including a minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar and equation of time.

The “Cabinotiers”, is the name given to the prestigious and cultivated watchmakers who worked in workshops on the top floors of Geneva’s buildings. The expertise of these accomplished masters was backed by vast scientific knowledge, fired by a curiosity for new ideas and nurtured by the philosophy of the Enlightenment. Their deft hands craft exceptional timepieces of rare technical and aesthetic complexity, inspired by astronomy, science and the arts.

Vacheron Constantin continues to take on these highly technical and creative challenges within its Les Cabinotiers department, which gives rise to one-of-a-kind models intended for clients and collectors, along with specifically commissioned bespoke timepieces. Engineers, designers, watchmakers and craftsmen unite their imagination, expertise and passion in bringing this extremely refined watchmaking excellence to life.

Taking its named from the legendary phoenix bird, this watch boasts 15 complications. Visible on both sides of the watch, an array of indications – including perpetual calendar, equation of time, sunrise and sunset, sky chart, seasons, signs of the zodiac, age and phase of the moon, solstices, sidereal hours and minutes, power – endow it with nobility and prestige.

A minute repeater and a tourbillon complete this exceptional list of functions. The watchmakers of the Les Cabinotiers department have succeeded in accommodating all these functions within the limited space of the case by maximum miniaturisation of all components, while preserving their reliability.

The numerals and hands stand out clearly against the slate-grey colour of the two dials on either side of the watch, beautifully offsetting the pink gold case. The optimal legibility of this complex model is also ensured by the layout of the additional counters and the various time indications.

The Calibre 2755 powering this extremely complicated watch is movement endowed with a 58-hour power reserve.

Epitomising a subtle balance between innovation and the transmission of ancestral skills, this exceptional model also pays tribute to a pair of engraving art techniques that few artisans still master: pounced ornament – or bas-relief – for the case-band; and fine line engraving for the bezel and case-back.

Given the extreme care lavished on details that constitutes a Vacheron Constantin signature, the wings of the legendary Phoenix bird appear to be literally ready to unfurl on the case-band, while the movement of its slim neck extends elegantly and gracefully to the very tip of its beak.

Technical details

Model: Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Phoenix
Reference: 9700C/003R-B187 – Hallmark of Geneva

Movement
Caliber 2755
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin – Mechanical, manual-winding – 33.9 mm diameter,
12.15 mm thick – Approximately 58 hours of power reserve – 2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour) – 839 components
40 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes, Small second at 6 o’clock on tourbillon carriage

15 complications:
1. Minute repeater
2. Tourbillon
3-6. Perpetual calendar (date, day of the week, month, leap year)
7. Power reserve
8. Equation of time
9. Sunrise time
10. Sunset time
11. Sky chart
12. Age and phases of the moon
13. Sidereal hours and minutes
14. Seasons, zodiac signs
15. Striking mechanism torque

Setting
Hours and minutes adjustment: winding crown (2 positions) – Moon phase adjustment: correction push-piece on the case – Perpetual calendar adjustment: two correction push-pieces on the case – Sky chart adjustment: with crown and screwed-down push-piece

Case
18K 5N pink gold with case-band hand-engraved with “Phoenix” sculpture, bezel and case back handengraved with an ornamental pattern – 47 mm diameter, 19.10 mm thick

Dials
(Face & back side) Slate-grey opaline dials – 18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers – 18K 5N pink gold hands

Strap
Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-fnish, large square scales

Buckle
18K 5N pink gold folding clasp and buckle hand-engraved with an ornamental pattern
Half Maltese cross-shaped

Box
Prestige winder box made of Makassar ebony wood

Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen, a magnifying glass

Edition
Unique timepiece, « Les Cabinotiers », « Pièce unique », « AC » hallmark engraved on caseback

Blancpain Equation du Temps Marchante – The World’s First Running Equation of Time Watch (2004)

June 7, 2018June 30, 2022 MasterHorologerLeave a comment

The running equation of time (“Equation du Temps Marchante”) watch by Blancpain was debuted in 2004. This limited edition of 50 pieces features two equation of time displays, the running solar minutes-hand (bearing a sun) and a plus/minus display at 2 o’clock. An equation of time display ties the watch to the cycles of the sun, complete with a hand-carved rotor depicting the sun (in gold), moon and stars.

In the history of fine watchmaking, perhaps the most mystical and precious complication of all has been the equation of time. An equation of time display ties the watch to the cycle of the sun. For convenience, humans have defined the day to be exactly 24 hours in length.

Faithful to that definition, watches from the most humble inexpensive quartz watch to the most prized mechanical marvel measure time according to that defined standard. In reality, however, the defined 24-hour day is a convenience, an average, that serves most purposes well but does not correspond exactly to the actual length of a solar day. Because the earth’s orbit is not exactly round and because the earth’s axis of rotation is inclined by 23 degrees, the actual solar day may be several minutes longer or shorter, depending on the time of year, than 24 hours.

The difference between the length of the actual solar day, termed “solar time”, and the 24-hour day, termed “civil time”, is called the equation of time. The accumulated differences between civil time and solar time can be as much as +14 minutes and –16 minutes; on four days per year the errors catch up and the solar time and civil time correspond exactly.

Two centuries ago, fascination with the sun and this phenomenon of a day which varies in length inspired watch and clockmakers to record this time difference, the equation of time, on the face of a timepiece. Since then the equation complication has been reserved for only the most important watches and clocks.

In the early development of equation of time movements, two methods of recording the time difference were conceived. The more simple of the two is a display of the difference between solar and civil time on a plus/minus scale. Far more complicated was the second, an équation marchante movement.

With the équation marchante or “running equation” movement, a second minutes-hand is added indicating solar time. This offers the advantage that the solar time can be directly read from the face of the watch. The difference can also be discerned from the difference between the solar minutes hand and the conventional civil minutes-hand.

Equation of time displays in wristwatches have always been extraordinarily rare and, following the tradition developed over two centuries with pocket watches and clocks, they have been incorporated in only the most refined of timepieces. However, working in the small dimensions of a wristwatch, the equation complication has, until now, only been of the more simplified plus/minus scale variety.

**Blancpain Calibre 3863 Equation du Temps Marchante**

In 2004, Blancpain debuted a revolutionary equation of time watch, the Equation du Temps Marchante. Blancpain’s watchmakers undertook to bring to wristwatches, for the first time, the rare and difficult running equation complication that had existed only in large clocks and pocket watches.

To do this they had to design an innovative gear train, with an ingenious differential that combines the running of the equation gear train controlled by a complex-shaped cam and the running train of the watch’s civil minutes-hand, to drive the running equation hand. In addition, Calibre 3863 provides a plus/minus scale equation display.

There is extraordinary complexity in the calendar mechanism of Calibre 3863, which must combine a perpetual calendar with the equation of time train and the normal minute train of the watch. A patented differential system was specially developed for the watch. Of particular interest, at 6 o’clock, is the ellipsoidal wheel which calculates the length of the solar day according to month.

As befits this extraordinary wristwatch, Blancpain combined these two separate equation displays with an innovative retrograde moon phase indication and a complete perpetual calendar.

The decoration of the movement celebrates this achievement with a special hand carving of the bridges and a meticulously hand-fashioned winding rotor bearing an artist’s image of the sun.

Technical details

Model: Blancpain Le Brassus Equation Marchante Platinum
Ref. 4238-3442-55

Case
Case material: Platinum
Thickness: 12.3
Diameter: 42 mm
Water-resistance: 50 m
Width between horns: 22mm
Sapphire caseback

Dial
Opaline dial

Movement
Calibre 3863, self-winding movement
Thickness: 5.25 mm
Diameter: 26.8 mm
Power reserve in hours: 72
Jewels: 39
Components: 394

Functions
Running Equation
Perpetual calendar
Retrograde moon phases
Small seconds

Bracelet
Crocodile strap

Edition
Limited edition of 50 pieces

Blancpain Apotheosis Temporis – Limited Edition Set with 8 Timepieces – Ultra Slim, Time Zone, Moon Phase Calendar, Perpetual Calendar with Correctors Hidden under the Lugs, Single Push-button Chronograph with Split-seconds, Tourbillon, Equation Marchante Pure and Minute Repeater

June 7, 2018June 29, 2022 MasterHorologerLeave a comment

In 2005, as part of its celebration of the 270th Anniversary of its founding, Blancpain unveiled a limited edition set, the Apotheosis Temporis.

Inspired by the Six Masterpieces released nearly two decades earlier, the Apotheosis Temporis Set incorporated all of the classic complications from the Six Masterpieces and added two more Blancpain signature complications: a dual time zone watch and a running equation of time perpetual calendar watch.

The equation of time addition is particularly significant as it represents a world first achieved by Blancpain a year earlier when it debuted the first wristwatch ever to incorporate this complex mechanism. Further underscoring its complication prowess, Blancpain endowed the entire Apotheosis Temporis collection with automatic winding.

Villeret Equation Marchante Pure “Apotheosis Temporis”, (Ref. 6038A-3430-55B)

All eight pieces in the set – Ultra Slim, Time Zone, Moon Phase Calendar, Perpetual Calendar with Correctors Hidden under the Lugs, Single Push-button Chronograph with Split-seconds, Tourbillon, Equation Marchante Pure and Minute Repeater – were turned out in platinum, with special black dials reserved for the collection, and featured winding rotors unique to the set.

The Blancpain APOTHEOSIS TEMPORIS Set consists of platinum versions following watch models:-

Ultraplate (Ultra Slim)
Time Zone
Quantième à Phases de Lune (Moon Phase Calendar)
Quantième Perpétuel avec Correcteurs sous cornes (Perpetual Calendar with Correctors Hidden under the Lugs)
Chronographe Monopoussoir à Rattrapante (Single Push-button Chronograph with Split-seconds)
Tourbillon
Equation Marchante Pure (Equation of Time)
Répétition Minutes (Minute Repeater)

Done in the Villeret Collection style, this limited edition, which sold out immediately, featured a custom eight-rotor winding box to house the collection.

The cases of the eight creations making up the Blancpain Apotheosis Temporis set feature 950 platinum cases and house a subtle matt black dial with white gold applied hour-markers.

Water-resistant to 30 metres (apart from the Minute Repeater), these cases have a diameter of 38 mm and are fitted with a sapphire crystal that is glare-proofed both sides and a sapphire case-back with anti-glare treatment on the inside.

The sapphire crystal case-back allows to admire the view of movement decorations (“Côtes de Genève”, circular graining, bevelling, polishing and engraving) entirely performed by hand, like all Blancpain movements, in keeping with the noblest traditions of Haute Horlogerie. The eight timepieces also feature a platinum oscillating weight made exclusively for the Apotheosis Temporis.

Constituting an objet d’art in its own right, a splendid lacquered wooden piece of furniture with an exquisitely marquetry-worked Macassar ebony cabinet has been lovingly crafted by a skilled artisan to host the eight Apotheosis Temporis models. This precious work of art features storage areas for the eight complications equipped with a rotating motor to ensure continuous winding of the watches.

Panerai L’Astronomo – Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT 50mm

April 6, 2018August 12, 2021 MasterHorologerLeave a comment

The Astronomo – Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT is the first of Officine Panerai’s creations to have moon phase indication and an innovative system using polarised crystals to indicate the date. This watch pays tribute to Galileo Galilei.

The first Panerai L’Astronomo, presented in 2010 on the occasion of the 400th anniversary of the celestial observations made by Galileo as a result of the invention of the telescope, was the first timepiece created by Panerai with a tourbillon regulator, calendar, equation of time indication and the display of the times of sunrise and sunset.

Like its predecessor, the new L’Astronomo – Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT is made to order, and the skeletonised movement, the P.2005/GLS (standing for Galileo Luna Scheletrato), is personalised to operate in accordance with the geographical coordinates of a place chosen by the client.

It provides the same range of remarkable functions as the first L’Astronomo, and in addition, GMT and two other innovations: indication of the phases of the moon and an original system for displaying the date using polarised crystals.

Thanks to the invention of the telescope, Galileo made revolutionary discoveries concerning the appearance and the movement of the moon. He made remarkably beautiful drawings of what he saw with an accuracy and attention to detail which is still amazing even today.

So in a timepiece dedicated to him, nothing would be more logical than moon phase indication, a classic complication of high quality watchmaking which Panerai has interpreted in its own way and with an accuracy of a century.

On the back of the new L’Astronomo’s P.2005/GLS movement is a day/night indicator which also clearly displays the phases of the moon, by means of a system consisting of two superimposed discs which rotate in combination. The upper disc – which is read by a small external index fixed onto the movement – displays the 24 hours of the day, showing the sun during the hours of daylight and the stars of the sky at night.

At the centre of the starry sky is a little round window through which the lower disc can be seen; on this appears the moon, its shape evolving day by day as a result of a small supplementary rotation of this disc of about 6.1° per day, a figure based on the exact duration of one lunar cycle (an average of 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 3 seconds).

Given that each watch movement is made according to the coordinates of a place chosen by the watch’s owner, the indication of the moon phases always relates to the sky above that place, and of course it also takes account of the difference between the earth’s northern and southern hemispheres.

Like the moon phase indicator, the indicators of sunrise and sunset times are connected to home time and therefore, if the owner of the watch should find himself in a city with a different time zone from that of the chosen city, these indicators will continue to show the situation at the time at home, which is indicated by the GMT hand.

Finally, at six o’clock is the linear indicator of the equation of time, which displays the difference between actual time (solar time) and conventional time on each day, this period ranging between plus 15 minutes and minus 15 minutes, according to the time of year.

As well as the moon phase indicator, the hand-wound P.2005/GLS calibre also has the characteristic Panerai tourbillon escapement, which can be admired both from the front as well as from the back of the watch thanks the sophisticated work of skeletonising the movement and the absence of an actual dial.

All the elements which would be found in a traditional dial appear on the movement or the flange, and the two spring barrels, which store enough power to last at least four days, are visible through the open back, which also enables the power reserve indicator mounted on the movement to be read.

In a watch with this construction, a date disc designed in the traditional way would to some extent conceal the fascination of the skeletonised movement, because it would cover part of the components.

The Laboratorio di Idee at the Manufacture in Neuchâtel has therefore designed an innovative system – pending patent by Panerai – in which the date disc is made of borosilicate glass and the numbers of the days have laser-modified optical properties. The numbers are virtually invisible in all positions except for the one that is aligned with the little date window, where a further polarized crystal, situated above the date disc, causes the number to appear so that it is perfectly legible.

In the Tourbillon Regulator system patented by Panerai, the tourbillon’s rotation is different from that of the classic tourbillon. The cage of the balance rotates continuously on itself, to correct any alterations caused by gravity and possible friction. In this innovative mechanism patented by Panerai, the cage rotates on an axis at right angles to the balance, not parallel with it.

Also, while the traditional tourbillon rotates once in one minute, that of the P.2005/GLS rotates once in 30 seconds, and its rotation can be seen by an indicator in the small seconds counter at 9 o’clock. The higher speed and the particular arrangement of the mechanism mean that any possible alterations of rate are effectively compensated, resulting in more accurate timekeeping.

As well as the technical personalisation of the P.2005/GLS movement, the new L’Astronomo Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT also provides the opportunity of selecting the material and finish of the case, the colour of the hands and that of the SuperLumiNova® which makes the watch’s indications extremely readable even in the dark, as well as the colour of the alligator strap.

In this way each client can create an individual watch of great character and elegance, for example choosing between a red gold or a white gold case, or the brushed titanium case of the basic version of the L’Astronomo for a more sporty and functional appearance. In each instance, the watch is water-resistant to 10 bar (a depth of about 100 metres).

Technical details

Model: Luminor Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation Of Time GMT – 50mm L’Astronomo
Reference: PAM00920

Movement
Hand-wound mechanical, P.2005/GLS calibre
Power reserve: 96 H.

Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, month indicator, GMT, power reserve Indicator on the back, equation of time, sunrise/sunset times, moon phases indicator on the back, tourbillon

Case
50 mm, brushed titanium
Water resistance: 10 bar (~ 100 metres)

Suggested retail price
On request

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Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887 Platinum

August 2, 2017August 2, 2022 MasterHorologer

With this new Grande Complication timepiece unveiled at Baselworld 2017, Swiss luxury watchmaker Breguet pays tribute to its rich tradition in the field of marine chronometers.

Throughout his career, A.-L. Breguet consistently demonstrated his exceptional mastery of time measurement. His strong involvement and his revolutionary developments earned him significant recognition and numerous honours.

In 1814, Louis XVIII, king of France appointed him a member of the Bureau des longitudes in Paris. This body created in 1795 by the National Convention was dedicated to the advancement of the various branches of astronomy and their applications to geography, navigation and geodesy (the measurement and understanding of Earth’s physical properties). Its tasks included the annual publication of reference documents such as astronomical ephemerides.

The Bureau des longitudes was a prestigious organisation whose 20 or so members included geometers, astronomers, seafarers and associate artists. The only representative of his profession that was eminently useful to physicists and navigators, Breguet became the horological authority, notably for the calculation of longitudes at sea. As an extension of this distinction, through an ordinance issued on October 27th 1815, Louis XVIII awarded A.-L. Breguet the official title of chronometer maker to the French Royal Navy.

This was the most prestigious title a horologist could hope to receive, given that the very concept of marine chronometry implied scientific knowledge. It also involved playing a crucial role for the country, as marine chronometers were of capital importance for fleets by making it possible to calculate ships’ positions at sea.

Following in the wake of this unique heritage, the House of Breguet now launches a worldwide exclusive model named the Marine Équation Marchante 5887. This “Grande Complication” marks the start of a new era for the contemporary Marine collection.

The equation of time is one of the rarest and most fascinating horological complications. It serves to display the difference between mean solar time, corresponding to civil or standard hours and minutes, and true solar time, meaning the actual solar hours and minutes.

Since Antiquity, the sun has been used as the basis of time. Nonetheless, the visible motion of the sun – the true solar time indicated on sundials – is irregular. With the improvement of timekeeping precision, watches and clocks became the basis of time and true solar time was replaced by mean solar time, within which each day has the same duration of exactly 24 hours. True solar time may show a discrepancy with mean solar time ranging from minus 14 minutes to plus 16 minutes.

On just four days a year, the two times are exactly the same. Given that the variations between true solar time and mean solar time are repeated in an identical manner on the same dates, watchmakers can reproduce them mechanically by means of a special cam. Shaped like a bean, the cam requires extremely accurate execution.

It is coupled with a feeler-spindle that drives an equation lever serving to indicate the difference between civil time and solar time. This read-off is generally provided on a sector or subdial. It is then up to the user to mentally add or subtract the difference displayed in relation to mean time in order to calculate true solar time. The new Marine Équation Marchante from Breguet supersedes this principle. It simultaneously indicates civil time and true time by means of two separate minutes hands.

The running solar hand, adorned with a facetted golden sun, provides a direct reading of solar time minutes that is both quicker and more user-friendly. This apparently simplicity conceals an arduous construction process that few watchmakers are capable of achieving. The solar minutes hand has to meet two imperative demands: it must sweep in a conventional way around the dial, like the civil minutes hand, while also daily moving away from the latter, in order to display true solar time taking into account the equation of time.

Breguet was able to accomplish this by equipping its running solar hand with a differential gear powered by two rotation sources operating entirely independently: the rotation of civil minutes, and that controlled by the lever in contact with the equation of time cam, which makes one full turn per year. Breguet has developed an extremely slim equation cam borne by using a transparent sapphire disc.

The complexity that the running equation of time brings to this model is naturally complemented on this “Grande Complication” by a perpetual calendar. Two apertures – one between 10 and 11 o’clock and the other between 1 and 2 o’clock – respectively display the days of the week as well as the months and the leap-year cycle.

The date appears inside the chapter ring by means of a retrograde hand tipped with an anchor motif and sweeping across an arc running from 9 to 3 o’clock. The dial layout of the information has been carefully designed to ensure simple and intuitive linear reading, along with impeccable visual appeal.

Based on the self-winding 581DR calibre, the new Marine Équation Marchante by Breguet also flaunts a third complication that is noteworthy in its own right: a 60-second tourbillon with a titanium carriage housing a Breguet balance with a silicon balance spring.

This innovative characteristic notably enables the balance wheel to achieve a 4Hz frequency, while maintaining a particularly comfortable power reserve for a self-winding model. This 80-hour autonomy is displayed through an aperture between 7 and 9 o’clock. The tourbillon appears through the sapphire disc bearing the equation of time cam, to which it is coaxial.

The ingenuity of this spectacular model is accentuated by the precious expertise of the artisans exercising their skills within the House of Breguet. The front dial features two types of engine-turning, including a “wave” pattern specifically developed for this new creation. The inscription “Marine royale” is engraved on the tourbillon bar, whose execution naturally draws the gaze.

Visible through a sapphire caseback, the bridges have been delicately chased to depict in meticulous detail the Royal Louis, a first rank vessel in the French Royal Navy. The barrel is adorned with a windrose motif, in reference to astronomical navigation. Thanks to the carefully chosen positioning of the oscillating weight on the rim of the calibre, the self-winding movement deploys the full splendour of its decoration.

The new Marine Équation Marchante by Breguet features new aesthetic signature codes giving it a modern and dynamic appearance: central lugs combining polished and satin-brushed surfaces; more open fluting, with visible flanks; a crown topped with a polished “B” against a sandblasted background; as well as a crown adorned with a chamfered and satin-brushed wave motif.

This Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887 watch comes with a 43.9mm-diameter case in rose gold or platinum. The rose gold version frames a silvered dial and an anthracite movement, while the platinum interpretation has a blue dial and a rhodium-plated movement.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887
Ref. 5887PT/Y2/9WV

Case
950 platinum with delicately fluted caseband
Sapphire-crystal caseback
43.9mm diameter
Water-resistant to 10 bar (100m)

Dial
Blue dial in gold, engine-turned
Individually numbered and signed Breguet
Hours chapter with Roman numerals and luminescent dots
Breguet facetted hands in 18k gold with luminescent material
Running solar hand with facetted golden sun
Days of the week in an aperture between 10 and 11 o’clock
Months and leap-year cycle in an aperture between 1 and 2 o’clock
Retrograde dates indication on an arc running from 9 to 3 o’clock
Power reserve in an aperture between 7 and 9 o’clock

Movement
Self-winding movement with running equation of time, perpetual calendar, tourbillon and 80-hour power reserve, Cal. 581DPE
Numbered and signed Breguet
Small seconds and equation of time cam on the tourbillon axis
16 lignes
57 jewels
Silicon escapement wheel and inverted lateral lever with silicon horns
Silicon balance spring
Balance frequency: 4Hz
Adjusted in 6 positions

Strap
Alligator leather strap with gold folding clasp

Other versions
Also available in 18k rose gold with dial in silvered gold and anthracite movement: Reference 5887BR/12/9WV

Panerai – Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio, 48mm (PAM00516) & Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio, 47mm (PAM00601)

January 24, 2015August 12, 2021 MasterHorologerLeave a comment

Panerai unveils two new special edition mechanical wristwatches equipped with one of the most classic and fascinating astronomical complications, the equation of time. Equipped with a hand wound manufacture movement, these timepieces offer an exceptional power reserve up to 8 days.

Panerai Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days (PAM00516)

Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio, 48mm (PAM00516)

The length of one day is derived from the period of one rotation of the Earth and the length of one year corresponds to the period of one revolution of the Earth around the Sun, and for centuries timepieces have been used to place events in a timeframe defined by these phenomena, establishing the universal convention which is time.

There is, however, a difference between convention and reality. Because of the elliptical orbit of the Earth round the Sun and the axial tilt of the Earth’s rotation in relation to the equator, the duration of a day measures exactly 24 hours on only four occasions in one year, while on all other days there is a difference between apparent time (solar time) and conventional time (mean time) which varies between being up to about 15 minutes ahead or behind, depending on the time of year.

This difference, the measurement of which is one of the classic complications of high quality watchmaking, is called the “equation of time” and it is displayed by a linear indicator on the dial of the new Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days and the Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days.

Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio, 48mm (PAM00516)

The inclusion of such a sophisticated complication as the equation of time does not alter the classic Panerai design of the two models, a design inspired directly by the history of the Florentine brand.

Panerai Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days (PAM00601)

Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio, 47mm (PAM00601)

One of the watches has the Radiomir 1940 case and the other the Luminor 1950 case, the latter being the historical evolution of the former, having the distinctive bridge device with clamping lever which protects the winding crown. Both cases are made of AISI 316L stainless steel – an alloy that is particularly resistant to corrosion – with a polished finish.

Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio, 47mm (PAM00601)

The dial of both models is black with the classic sandwich structure invented by Panerai in the late 1930s: two superimposed discs contain the luminous substance, the light of which emerges through the holes in it corresponding to the markers on the upper disc, providing a unique tonal depth and high legibility.

As well as the linear indicator of the equation of time, the dial also contains the seconds counter at nine o’clock, the date window at three o’clock and the circular indicator on which the month can be read.

Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio, 48mm (PAM00516)

On the back of the case is a sapphire crystal window which enables the details and fine finish of the hitherto unissued P.2002/E movement to be admired. This is a hand-wound movement with a diameter of 13¾ lignes, with three spring barrels providing the long power reserve of eight days which has been part of the tradition of the brand since the 1940s.

Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio, 47mm (PAM00601)

The Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days (PAM00516) and the Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days (PAM00601) are two Special Editions of only 200 and 100 units respectively.

Water-resistant to 10 bar (about 100 metres), they are fitted with an alligator strap, and the model with the Luminor 1950 case is supplied with a screwdriver and the tool for replacing the strap.

Technical details

Model: Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio – 48mm

Reference: PAM00516
Movement: Hand-wound mechanical, P.2002/E calibre
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, month indicator, equation of time, power reserve indicator on the back. CASE: 48 mm, AISI 316L polished steel
Dial: Black with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Date and month indicator at 3 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock, equation of time indicator at 6 o’clock
Power reserve: 192H
Water resistance: 10 bar (~ 100 metres).

Model: Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio – 47mm

Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio, 47mm (PAM00601)

Reference: PAM00601
Movement: Hand-wound mechanical, P.2002/E calibre
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, month indicator, equation of time, power reserve indicator on the back
Case: 47 mm, AISI 316L polished steel
Dial: Black with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Date and month indicator at 3 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock, equation of time indicator at 6 o’clock
Power reserve: 192H
Water resistance: 10 bar (~ 100 metres)

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Vacheron Constantin Maître Cabinotier Astronomica

October 3, 2014January 11, 2022 MasterHorologerLeave a comment

Crafted by the most experienced master-watchmakers of Vacheron Constantin, the “Maître Cabinotier Astronomica” is an extremely sophisticated Grande Complication wristwatch, equipped with an exceptional set of functions.

This impressive feat of miniaturisation, driven by manual-winding Calibre 2755-B1, brings together 15 of the most demanding Haute Horlogerie complications and gives pride of place to astronomical functions. It is also the very first representative of a new and highly exclusive range of models crafted in the spirit of Geneva’s 18th century cabinotiers, combining exclusive production, personalisation and masterful accomplishments.

This exceptional movement embodying a compendium of horological excellence and bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva is housed within a 47 mm-diameter, 19.1 mm-thick white case.

Inspired by the world’s most complicated wristwatch that paid eloquent tribute in 2005 to the 250th anniversary of the Geneva-based Manufacture – Vacheron Constantin’s very famous Tour de l’Ile, the unique Maître Cabinotier Astronomica watch once again demonstrates the remarkable expertise Vacheron Constantin has acquired in the art of combining multiple complications within an extremely small space. Boldly reaching for the stars, Calibre 2755-B1 is one of the most complex ever made by the Manufacture and features a number of unusual – mainly astronomical – complications.

This mechanical manual-winding movement with a 58-hour power reserve offers an original combination of 15 complications driven by 839 parts, while measuring a modest 33.90 mm in diameter and 12.15 mm thick. These many useful functions, which can be read off on both the dial side and the back of this watch, constitute an authentic technical feat.

Firstly by incorporating the specific mechanisms of the 15 complications within a wristwatch and ensuring that they run to perfection; secondly in terms of ensuring optimal legibility and comfort on the wrist; and thirdly by maintaining a sophisticated design and taut, sleek lines. Moreover, both this unique wristwatch and its movement bear the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva.

Summing up the refined skills mastered by the Manufacture since 1755, this Grande Complication model named Maître Cabinotier Astronomica also evokes the spirit of the “Atelier Cabinotiers” created by Vacheron Constantin in 2006.

This extremely specialised service of creating bespoke Haute Horlogerie watches reconnects with the time when Geneva’s highly specialised watchmaking artisans –the cabinotiers – plied their trade in attic-type workshops as they crafted unique watches commissioned by prestigious clients. The one-of-a-kind Maître Cabinotier Astronomica is a natural heir to this philosophy of combining watchmaking excellence with personalisation in accordance with customers’ individual wishes.

Minute repeater, equation of time, tourbillon, perpetual calendar, date, day of the week, month, leap years, power reserve, sunrise and sunset times. In addition to the hours and minutes, no less than 11 complications are displayed with both clarity and distinction on the front, or dial side. Two of the most sophisticated major Haute Horlogerie complications – the minute repeater and the tourbillon – pairs with various astronomical-type complex functions: a perpetual calendar, an equation of time, as well as indications of sunrise and sunset times.

Among these captivating complications, the minute repeater deserves particular attention, in that it is fitted with an ingenious centripetal flying strike governor, developed by the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin.

Perfectly silent and preventing undue wear of the frequently solicited striking mechanism, it serves to regulate the duration of the musical sequence in order to ensure that the notes chimed for the hours, quarters and minutes are both melodious and distinctly audible when the hammers strike the gongs.

In addition to the minute repeater, the dial reveals a stunning tourbillon at 6 o’clock, equipped in the traditional manner with a carriage shaped like a Maltese cross, Manufacture’s emblem. The tourbillon rotates at a rate of one complete turn per minute, making light of gravity in order to improve the movement’s precision and also serving as a small seconds display.

Meanwhile, the perpetual calendar, the “memory of time to come” is capable of keeping up with the complexities of the Gregorian calendar without any need for human intervention other than a date change every 400 years. The displays are symmetrically arranged with the day of the week appearing at 9 o’clock, the month at 12 o’clock and the date at 3 o’clock, while the leap-year indicator is discreetly positioned at 1 o’clock.

Equipping the watch with an equation of time, another fascinating complication shown by means of a short hand positioned at 10.30, also calls for considerable expertise. It serves to measure the difference in minutes between solar time and standard legal time. While humankind decided for practical reasons to divide each year into 365.25 days, each day into 24 hours and each hour into 60 minutes, the time as shown by the sun, or “true” time, differs according to the day of the year. This lag or advance varies daily, while remaining within the -16 to +16 minute range.

This exceptional timepiece also has another type of astronomical complication that is a rarity in the field of horology: sunrise and sunset times. Involving a particularly delicate development process, this complication provides an accurate indication of this information for a given location on Earth – which in turn means that client must first choose the city for which he wishes to have the sunrise and sunrise times. The display of this “customised complication” is rigorously symmetrical, with sunrise appearing at 8 o’clock and sunset at 4 o’clock.

The back of this timepiece is just as fascinating as the front, since it features four complications and displays seven useful and interesting functions: a sky chart, the solstice, the equinox, sidereal time, the age and phases of the moon, the seasons, and the zodiac signs, forming a set of stellar complications that are extremely rare in the Haute Horlogerie firmament. This rare dial exclusively dedicated to displaying astronomical functions is built on two levels. The central disc bears a sky chart of the northern hemisphere, as well as the four cardinal points.

Through two South and North openings, it symmetrically displays the months of the year and sidereal time, corresponding to “true” time. The latter indication is a necessity for watchmakers and enables them to adjust the sky chart according to the reference city chosen by the sole client. A small hand sweeping around the rim of the first dial level shows the age of the moon, meaning the number of days since the last full moon. Meanwhile, the second dial provides an array of extremely interesting astronomical functions.

A long and slender central hand, tipped with a sun on its counterweight, rotates around the dial in pointing to the date on the outer rim of the disc. It also indicates the zodiac sign, the season, and finally the equinox or the solstice corresponding to the current date.

While an equinox is distinguished by the equal duration of day and night, a solstice corresponds to a minimum or maximum length of day and occurs twice a year somewhere around June 21st for the summer solstice and December 21st for its winter counterpart. The days on either side of the summer solstice are the longest of the year, while those near the winter solstice are the shortest.

The equinoxes are the two days of the year when the sun changes hemisphere and passes over the equator at its exact zenith. A year comprises two equinoxes: one between March 19th and 21st, and the other between September 22ndand 23rd. These dates are regarded as corresponding to the beginning of spring and autumn.

A superlative movement in every sense of the term, equipping a unique watch and adaptable to the reference city of the owner for whom it is intended, Calibre 2755-B1 once again proves the exceptional mastery and the capacity for innovation of the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin.

While pushing technical limits to new extremes, it remains consistently attentive to the user friendliness of a timepiece, even when it offers a large number of complications. The engineers and master-watchmakers have developed a calibre fitting smoothly inside a case graced with slender lines despite the multitude of parts required by such an elaborate mechanism.

The characteristics of the white gold case are designed to ensure the remarkable sound quality of the minute repeater. Moreover, providing a pleasantly balanced and readable display of these multiple functions is a tour de force in itself.

The entirely in-house developed and produced Calibre 2755-B1 perfectly reflects the philosophy of excellence that Vacheron Constantin applies to conceiving and making its Grande Complication models.

Each part is finely adjusted and harmonised so as to guarantee optimal performances, making each movement a unique masterpiece. Its impressive level of finishing is expressed through meticulously hand bevelled bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève, a circular-grained mainplate, as well as the smoothly rounded off tourbillon carriage bar.

Like the watch as a whole, the movement bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva certifying that it meets the numerous highly demanding criteria of this supremely independent label that offers a guarantee of provenance, top-notch precision, durability and watchmaking expertise.

This symbol of horological perfection notably signifies that the movement decoration is entirely hand-crafted. This highly unusual combination of 15 particular complications within a single watch demands a degree of mastery that is truly exceptional in the spheres of Haute Horlogerie.

In light of its complexity and originality, the Maître Cabinotier Astronomica is quite naturally issued as a limited edition of one.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Maître Cabinotier Astronomica
Reference: 80174/000G-9995
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Movement
Caliber 2755-B1
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
33.9 mm (14’’’ ¾) diameter
12.15 mm thick
Approximately 58 hours of power reserve
2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
839 components
42 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes
Small second at 6 o’clock on tourbillon carriage
15 complications:
1. Minute repeater
2. Tourbillon
3-7. Perpetual calendar (date, day of the week, month, leap year)
8. Power reserve
9. Equation of time
10. Sunrise time
11. Sunset time
12. Sky chart
13. Age and phases of the moon
14. Sidereal hours and minutes
15. Seasons, zodiac signs

Setting
Hours and minutes adjustment: winding crown (2 positions)
Moon phase adjustment: correction push-piece on the case
Perpetual calendar adjustment: two correction push-pieces on the case
Sky chart adjustment: with crown and screwed-down push-piece

Case
18K white gold
47 mm diameter, 19.1 mm thick

Dials
18K white gold, slate-colored opaline
18K white gold applied hour-markers
18K white gold hands

Strap
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp: 18K white gold triple-blade folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shape

Box
Prestige winder box made of Makassar wood

Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen, a magnifying glass and a resonator of sound « La Musique du Temps » enhancing the sound and the harmony notes of Vacheron Constantin minute repeater

Unique timepiece
« Pièce unique » engraved on caseback

Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Calibre 2253 L’empreinte du dragon

October 2, 2014January 13, 2022 MasterHorologerLeave a comment

While the “Métiers d’Art” collection by Vacheron Constantin continues to roll out a distinguished line of watches worthy of the finest master works, the expertise cultivated by the Manufacture in the field of topflight crafts is revealed in delicate touches throughout its range of timepieces.

In order to highlight one of the many skills that it perpetuates with consistent excellence, the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin presents the Traditionelle Calibre 2253 L’empreinte du dragon model featuring an entirely hand-engraved case.

This fine watch is equipped with prestigious horological complications and adorned with a dragon scale motif executed by a master-artisan who was awarded the prestigious title “Meilleur Ouvrier de France” in 2011.

Vacheron Constantin pays tribute with impressive regularity and virtuosity to a range of artistic crafts through its “Métiers d’Art” collection. Engraving, gemsetting, enamelling and guilloché convey the full breadth and depth of the artisan-type skills perpetuated by the Geneva-based Manufacture for over 250 years.

With subtle touches, these demanding arts are liberally sprinkled across the collections of the Maison, transfiguring exclusive models into unique works of art. For the very first time on a Grande Complication model in the Traditionnelle collection, the meticulous and refined art of engraving finds its place on the pink gold case.

Offering unique expressions of superlative craftsmanship, the case, bezel and lugs of the Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 L’empreinte du dragon have been entirely hand-engraved by one of the most experienced master engravers of his generation, who was indeed named “Meilleur Ouvrier de France” in 2011. This lifelong title conferred in recognition of authentic excellence rewards the perfection of a masterpiece and requires months and even years of preparation.

Stemming from close collaboration between the Vacheron Constantin designers and this talented artisan who joined the Manufacture in order to express his talent to the full, the dragon-scale symbolises imperial power and authority in Asia. In addition to the powerful aesthetic effect, the remarkable geometry of a dragon scale involves a number of challenges at each stage of the work.

From defining a motif harmoniously applied to the variously sized surfaces of the case, through to the line (copperplate) engraving of almost inaccessible parts, this meticulous work calls for expert dexterity – because such a masterpiece can tolerate no mistakes. There are no trial runs: the engraving is performed entirely by hand on the already assembled case, without any transferred pattern or laser tracing to serve as a reference, and at the considerable depth of 4/10ths of a millimetre.

The generous case thus provides an ideal medium of expression for this profound and impressive form of intaglio engraving. In addition, the specific 18-carat pink gold alloy used by Vacheron Constantin proved particularly challenging to engrave because of its hardness – a difficulty compounded by the constraints of a sophisticated motif obliging the master engraving to devise dedicated half moon-shaped tools in order to decorate the appropriate parts while avoiding the risk of damaging the surrounding areas.

Entirely performed by hand using burins, a compass and custom-made tools, this intricate and delicate task calls for up to 70 hours of patient workmanship. Exclusive by its very nature, the case-back of the Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 L’empreinte du dragon bears the inscription “Pièce Unique”.

To set the perfect stage for the ancestral artistic craft of engraving, Vacheron Constantin chose a highly complicated model in its Traditionnelle collection.

This line of timeless watches, graced with round cases and refined elegance, is inspired by the aesthetic codes that have defined some of the finest historical creations from the Manufacture. While remaining firmly attached to its fundamental values, the collection nonetheless expresses itself in contemporary language, thereby serving as a reminder that tradition and modernity are natural companions at Vacheron Constantin.

The entirely in-house developed and crafted Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 L’empreinte du dragon model is distinguished by a remarkable level of meticulously hand-crafted finishes. This timepiece bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva meets the many demanding criteria of this supremely independent label that is a guarantee of provenance, of high-quality precision, of durability and of watchmaking expertise.

In addition to the tourbillon, the Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 L’empreinte du dragon also features various complications relating to the Earth’s path through space: a perpetual calendar, an equation of time as well as sunrise and sunset indications.

The equation of time is a fascinating complication serving to measure the difference in minutes between true solar time and standard or legal time. This time lag or advance varies daily, while remaining within a range of -16 to +16 minutes. Sunrise and sunset times represent another rare horological complication, serving to provide a precise reading of these indications at any place on earth chosen by the client.

This highly technical watchmaking masterwork calling for several thousand hours of development boasts a stunning 14-day power reserve. Calibre 2253 measures just 9.60 mm thick and comprises 457 parts.

The inner technical complexity of this timepiece is equalled only by the refinement of its external attributes: a 44 mm diameter case in 18-carat gold, a silvered opaline dial adorned with 18K pink gold applied hour-markers, and a pink gold folding clasp shaped like a half Maltese cross.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Calibre 2253 L’empreinte du dragon
Reference: 88172/001R-A104
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Movement
Caliber 2253
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
32 mm (13’’’) diameter
9.6 mm thick
Approximately 336 hours of power reserve (14 days)
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
457 components
30 jewels

Indications
Hours
Minutes
Small second at 6 o’clock on tourbillon carriage
Tourbillon
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month and leap year)
Equation of time
Sunrise/sunset time
Power reserve indication (on the back of the watch)

Case
18K 5N pink gold
Hand-engraved lugs, case and bezel
44 mm diameter, 15.6 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial
Silvered opaline
18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers

Strap
Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp: 18K 5N pink gold triple-blade folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen and a magnifying glass

Unique timepiece
« Pièce unique » engraved on caseback

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 Moscow Boutique Edition

June 28, 2014January 13, 2022 MasterHorologerLeave a comment

The Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 Moscow Boutique is a Vacheron Constantin masterpiece.

Crafted in a limited edition of one, this watch celebrates the inauguration of the new Moscow Boutique that has now taken up residence in Berlin House. Equipped with a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar, an equation of time as well as sunrise and sunset times for the city of Moscow, it pays tributes to the noblest horological traditions.

Rare, complex and exclusive are the adjectives that best describe the Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 Moscow Boutique watch. Issued in a one-only limited edition for the inauguration of the new Moscow Boutique, it pays tribute to a longstanding expertise, acquired over a period of almost 260 years by a Manufacture that set out to conquer Russia at a very early stage in its history.

Fashioned in 950 platinum, this model is a compendium of major horological complications. Its 457-part calibre developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin features a tourbillon along with several astronomical-type complications such as the perpetual calendar, the equation of time and the sunrise and sunset times for the city of Moscow.

This watch is also endowed with an exceptional 14-day power reserve. Its technical configuration is based on two pairs of two coupled barrels; while the power reserve is visible on the bridge side and clearly visible through the sapphire crystal case-back.

The equation of time is probably the most fascinating complication in this outstanding model. Its purpose is to indicate the difference in minutes between the variable solar time shown by a sundial and the constant mean time of clocks and watches. For practical reasons, mankind has divided each year into 365 and a quarter days, each day into 24 hours, and the hours into 60 minutes each.

However, solar noon, the exact time when the sun reaches its zenith, does not generally correspond to the legal standard time shown by watches. In actual fact, solar time and mean time coincide just four times a year – on April 15th, June 14th, September 1st and December 24th. For the rest of the year, the difference between solar and mean time varies from minus 16 minutes to plus 16 minutes.

The oldest clock showing the equation of time was made by the mathematician Nikolaus Mercator in the 17thcentury. It enabled people in those days to convert the sun’s varying noon to the standard constant time shown on their watches. Since then, the rare instruments calculating the equation of time have been the work of extremely accomplished horologists.

Making this complication work does indeed call for particular skill. It depends on the equation cam, a waisted oval or analemma, shaped like a figure 8 and calculated according to the daily declination of the sun observed from a given spot in the course of a calendar year.

The cam rotates once a year and the extreme precision of its shape governs the accuracy of the equation of time. This fascinating complication is displayed by a short hand appearing between 10 and 11 o’clock on the dial of the Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 Moscow Boutique timepiece.

This exceptional creation also features another astronomical complication seldom found in watches –the times of sunrise and sunset throughout the year at a given locality. This extremely intricate complication serves to provide an accurate daily indication of these times for the city of Moscow. Here too, the mechanism relies on a cam, the outline of which is calculated according to the latitude and longitude of Moscow Its symmetrical display shows the sunrise times at 8 o’clock and sunset times at 4 o’clock.

The tourbillon carriage, as always in the shape of the brand emblem, a Maltese cross, rotates once a minute at 6 o’clock as a small seconds indication. The indications of the perpetual calendar are symmetrically laid out with the days, the months and the dates at 9, 12 and 3 o’clock respectively, while the leap-year indicator makes a circumspect appearance at 1 o’clock.

Within the Vacheron Constantin universe, this Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 Moscow Boutique expresses the very genetic identity of the Manufacture, of its heritage and of the skills patiently acquired since its founding. Radiating an aura of understated elegance through a 44 mm round case imbued with timeless classicism, this model embodies the noblest horological traditions and establishes itself as a reference in its field.

In addition to rigorously pure aesthetic, this one-of-a-kind model displays traditional style codes expressed in contemporary language: a slimmer case, a knurled motif surrounding the screw-down case-back fitted with a sapphire crystal, dauphine hands and an opaline black dial. An engraving on the case-back soberly indicates the exceptional – and indeed unique – nature of the Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 Moscow Boutique “N°1/1”.

The Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 Moscow Boutique model also bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, which is an independent and sovereign guarantee of workmanship, origin, quality, precision, resilience and competence. This seal of watchmaking perfection, among the oldest of professional labels, is reserved for a handful of Geneva manufacturers.

In an ultimate touch of elegance and refinement, the Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 Moscow Boutique model comes with a pair of 18-carat white gold and onyx cufflinks matching the Vacheron Constantin timepiece.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Caliber 2253 Moscow Boutique Edition
Reference: 88172/000P-F417
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Special product for Vacheron Constantin Moscow Boutique

Movement
Caliber 2253
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
32 mm (13 ’’’) diameter
9.60 mm thick
Approximately 336 hours power reserve (14 days)
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
457 components
30 jewels

Indications
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock
Tourbillon
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month, leap year)
Equation of time
Sunrise/sunset time of Moscow
Power reserve indication on the back of the watch

Case
Platinum 950
44 mm diameter, 15.60 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial
Black opaline
18K white gold hour-markers, with painted minute-track and indications

Strap
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather strap, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp: Platinum 950 triple-blade folding clasp; Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Accessory
Delivered with a corrector pen
Delivered with a pair of cufflinks in 18K white gold matching the dial of the timepiece

Edition
Unique timepiece
“N° 1/1” engraved on caseback

Antoine Martin Tourbillon Astronomique

April 12, 2014September 11, 2022 MasterHorologerLeave a comment

This new horology masterpiece developed by Antoine Martin hosts a number of astronomic complications such as Sunrise and sunset display (adjusted to a location of the customer’s choice), Display for the sign of the zodiac and season, Date display, Equation of time display, Retrograde moon with moon phase display and Day and night display on the front side of the dial. The Power reserve display, Declination display, featuring a graphic and the degrees in figures and Polar shadow line functions are displayed on the case back.

With the Antoine Martin Tourbillon Quantième Perpétual launched in 2012, master watchmaker Martin Braun already displayed his expertise and mastery over high horology complications. This fabulous tourbillon had already proved its efficiency and reliability in conjunction with a Perpetual Calendar.

The newly announced Antoine Martin Tourbillon Astronomique is a user friendly astronomical complication. The development team hit upon a solution that enables the sunrise and sunset times, the sign of the zodiac and season, the equation of time and the declination display to be set when the crown is in the rapid-setting position. Only the date and moon phase displays require a correction button.

Antoine Martin Tourbillon Astronomique watch with Sunrise and sunset display, Display for the sign of the zodiac and season, Date display, Equation of time display, Retrograde moon with moon phase display and Day and night display

The sunrise and sunset display
This is Martin Braun’s astronomic display par excellence and has emerged from years of intense study. In purely theoretical terms, sunrise and sunset within a given latitude and a 15°- wide zone of longitude occur at different times for every location, except at the vernal and autumnal equinoxes. For this reason, establishing the correct times for every customer calls for a wealth of complex calculations. The control cams are individually produced on the basis of these calculations before being integrated into the movement. The displays appear in the two subdials at 2 and 4 o’clock, respectively.

Every watch is supplied with a table from which the customer can read off the times for the location of his choice. Since sunrise and sunset occur at the same time twice a year, all we need to know is the current sign of the zodiac or the season.

After pulling the crown out to Position 2 (rapid setting), the user simply turns it to set the times of sunrise and sunset. If he stops turning the time shown in the table during the correct season, the times are automatically synchronized. And that is not all: because the Equation Of Time display and the declination displays synchronize themselves with the polar shadow. This reduces setting of the watch to a minimum and makes the watch particularly easy to use.

The display for the sign of the zodiac and the season
As described above, the main purpose of this display is to simplify setting the system. However, many individuals have a strong affinity to the signs of the zodiac and are deeply fascinated by astronomy. Enormous importance was attached here to the graphical interpretation with its three-dimensional elements. A version with a correct display of the seasons is available for customers who live in the southern hemisphere.

The date
The date display can be found at 1 o’clock. Unfortunately, there was no room for a Perpetual Calendar because the complex control mechanism for the astronomic displays took up all the available space. The mechanism is set using a correction button. Finding a position for the date display was difficult and, ultimately, only possible here. We therefore decided to enlarge the date display and take it into the edge of the glass, which has made it much more legible.

The Equation of Time display
This is one of the classics of astronomic displays. The earth’s orbit of the sun is an ellipse with the Sun at one of the ellipse’s two foci (the First Law of German mathematician and astronomer Johannes Kepler, 1571-1630).

The resultant effect is that the Earth has different relative speeds (Kepler’s Second Law) despite the fact that it completes its rotation in 23 hours and 56 minutes. It is, therefore, possible that when a standard timepiece shows 12 noon, the Sun reached its zenith around 15 minutes earlier; or, conversely, that it will take another 15 minutes or so for it to reach its highest point. As previously mentioned, setting the watch is synchronous with sunrise and sunset times.

The retrograde moon phase and moon phase display
The retrograde moon phase display is another of Martin Braun’s inventions. Space constraints and the tourbillon cage ruled out a conventional rotating moon phase disc. It is replaced here by a semi-transparent shadow that gradually moves across the moon until new moon (i.e. when no crescent is visible).

At this point, the disc changes direction and moves the other way until it reaches full moon. The moon phase display indicates whether the shadow is moving towards full moon, i.e. waxing (+) or towards new moon, waning (-).

The moon disc itself is very natural and realistic-looking. The shadow-like disc does not blot it out entirely but is semitransparent. This means that the contours and craters of the moon are still visible, as in the night sky. The moon itself is handmade of solid sterling silver and depicts all the Moon’s most important craters and seas as naturally as possible. The lively interplay of the individual components leaves conventional moon phase displays far behind.

The day and night display
Graphically adapted to the watch’s layout, the day and night display shows the 24 hours of the day and complements the astronomic displays.

The reverse side of the watch
Here we see the power reserve. Like the Tourbillon with Perpetual Calendar, this too is six days. In the same place, we find a unique plaque, which is made especially for individual customer and shows the geographic coordinates on the basis of which the sunrise and sunset times are calculated and adjusted.

The declination display
The last of the astronomic displays is Declination, which features very rarely in watches of this kind. Expressed simply, a Declination display indicates the latitude at which the sun at 12 noon stands 90° above the horizon and at which a stick standing upright in the ground would cast no shadow.

In other words, the red line moves up and down between the Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn in the course of the year: or between 23.5° northern latitude and -23.5° southern latitude. Declination is required for navigational purposes and is used with right ascension to locate heavenly bodies.

The red line is a graphic depiction of Declination, while the value is shown numerically on the left-hand side of the world map. At the same time, we see the polar shadow; i.e. the area in which the sun does not rise.

The world map is projected onto glass using a special graphic process known as quadrichromy. It is specially prepared and treated to convey a high-quality, three-dimensional impression. As mentioned, the Declination does not need to be set separately but is automatically shown with the sunrise and sunset displays.

Technical features of tourbillon mechanism are same as Antoine Martin Tourbillon Quantième Perpétual introduced in 2012.

Technical details

Model: Antoine Martin Tourbillon Astronomique TA01.710.1

Case, dial and strap
Case: rose gold 18K
Brown alligator strap
Silver dial
Deployant buckle rose gold 18 K

Movement
AM 39.003 caliber
– 39.5 mm diameter
– 8.00 mm movement height
– 52 jewels
– 144-hour power reserve
– 18,000 bps
– 428 individual components
– Flying minute tourbillon
– Adjusted in five positions
– High Performance Escapement (HPE)
– KIF shock absorbers
– Silicium pallet lever
– Silicium escape wheel
– Silicium impulse pin, mounted with no play on the balance staff
– Distortion-free stainless-steel tourbillon bridge
– Indexless precision adjustment
– Adjustment via two gold half-round-head screws
– Tourbillon cage poised with two gold rings.
– Precision adjustment for the beat
– Clamped balance spring attachment
– All toothed wheels fitted with sinks (prerequisite for Seal of Geneva)
– Cyclovent teeth
– Torque optimized by use of twin mainsprings
– Indirect gear train drive to uncouple energy from mainspring
– Extra-large 14.1 mm balance for oscillation stabilization
– Pallet lever cam that permits precise adjustment of the backlash, or “run to the banking”.
– Steel bushings for all bridge jewel bearings
– All bearings jewelled
– All bridges with bevelling

Functions
– Hour/minute
– Power reserve display
– 24-hour display
– Sunrise and sunset display, adjusted to location of customer’s choice
– Display for the sign of the zodiac and season
– Date
– Equation of Time display
– Retrograde moon with moon phase display
– Day and night display
– Power reserve display
– Declination display, graphically and in degrees
– Polar shadow line

Retail price
CHF 500,000.-

Girard-Perregaux 1966 Annual Calendar and Equation of Time

March 15, 2012October 11, 2022 MasterHorologerLeave a comment

The Girard-Perregaux 1966 collection has been enriched by a new model with an assertive character. Combining the range’s elegance and purity of line with the originality of a ruthenium dial, the Manufacture presents a new look for its Annual calendar and Equation of time model.

In 1966, Girard-Perregaux received the Neuchâtel Observatory’s Centenary Prize in recognition of its developments in the field of research and precision. The Girard-Perregaux 1966 therefore pays homage to the brand’s innovative spirit and illustrates its creative freedom, a combination of watchmaking excellence and style. Unsurprisingly, it has now established itself as one of the brand’s emblems.

This timepiece possesses all the assets of beautiful watchmaking, including its movement, the GP033M0. Composed of 287 parts, this calibre features remarkable finishes and was entirely developed and produced by the Girard-Perregaux Manufacture.

The annual calendar presenting the date and month automatically takes the length of the month into account, requiring only the occasional correction every 28th February of non-leap years. With its hand at 4.30, the equation of time indicates the difference between the real solar time and the mean or civil time.

The length of a solar day actually varies daily due to the elliptical shape of the Earth’s orbit. This astronomical complication is based on an ingenious mechanism incorporating an annual disc with an elliptical cam that reproduces the Earth’s movement around the Sun.

Taking technical sophistication even further, corrections to the calendar are made with the crown, in both directions. The system is simple to use and the absence of a corrector on the case leaves the purity of its harmonious curves intact.

The refined lines of this model reflect the craftsmanship of a sophisticated design. Created in the Manufacture workshops, its harmoniously curved case is 40 mm in diameter and its profile presents a remarkable silhouette. The entire ensemble has been meticulously crafted for perfect comfort and finished with care in order to reveal the precious nature of pink gold.

The open case-back reveals the movement and its oscillating weight. The timepiece presents delicate decorations crafted with respect for the strictest watchmaking traditions. The flat surfaces are circular-grained, sunray-brushed or decorated with Côtes de Genève, while sharp edges are chamfered then polished, as are the flat-head screws.

The ruthenium-adorned dial was designed to offer an original, harmonious display. Delicately sunray-brushed, it is enhanced by baton-type applied hour markers and fine leaf-shaped hands that add to its clarity. The counters with their precise markings increase the readability of the functions.

In a further touch of sophistication, Girard-Perregaux has equipped the calibre with its own Microvar variable inertia balance wheel. It features six adjustable screws and two inertia-blocks on its rim, used respectively to set the balance wheel’s equilibrium and enable fine adjustment of the movement. This exclusive development ensures increased precision and more stable adjustment.

Technical details

Model: Girard-Perregaux 1966 Annual calendar and Equation of time Pink Gold
Reference 49538-52-231-BK6A

Case
Pink gold case
Diameter: 40.00 mm
Height: 10.72 mm
Sapphire crystal
Sapphire crystal case-back
Water-resistance: 30 metres

Movement
Girard-Perregaux GP033M0 movement
Mechanical with automatic winding
Calibre: 11 ½ ’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations / hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 44
Power reserve: minimum 46 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, annual calendar, equation of time

Strap
Black alligator strap, pink gold pin buckle

Girard-Perregaux 1966 Annual Calendar and Equation of Time

December 28, 2010October 9, 2022 MasterHorologerLeave a comment

Girard-Perregaux 1966 models pay tribute to the Brand’s great tradition, combining watchmaking excellence with elegant style.

True to this spirit, the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Annual Calendar and Equation Of Time Watch houses an original mechanism: the calibre GP033M0. The highly practical annual calendar, which in this case indicates the date and month, automatically counts the different lengths of the months, so that only one correction a year is required, every 28 February except for the leap years.

With its hand at 4:30 the equation of time indicates the difference between real solar time and mean time or civil time. In fact, the duration of a solar day varies from day to day due to the elliptical shape of the Earth’s orbit. This astronomical complication is based on an ingenious mechanism, including an annual disc with an elliptical cam reproducing the movement of the Earth around the Sun.

To enhance the technical quality of the model, Girard-Perregaux has fitted it with its Microvar variable inertia balance. On its rim it combines six adjustable screws and two inertia blocks, used respectively for adjusting the balance equilibrium and making a fine adjustment to the movement rate.

This exclusive development gives increased accuracy and greater setting stability to the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Annual Calendar and Equation of Time.

While the sapphire case-back allows to contemplate the movement in its complexity, discretion prevails on the dial side, with the emphasis on an original and highly readable display. Illuminated by the pink gold of the 40 millimetre case, the dial focuses on clarity: “baton“ indexes, thin “leaf“ hands and counters with precisely applied transfers for perfect readability of the functions.

With its case and movement made entirely in-house by Girard-Perregaux, this watch has all the assets to seduce fine watchmaking connoisseurs.

Technical details

Model: Girard-Perregaux 1966 Annual Calendar and Equation of Time

Case
Pink gold or white gold case
Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 10.72 mm
Sapphire crystal
Sapphire case-back
Water resistance: 30 metres

Movement
Girard-Perregaux movement GP033M0
Mechanical with automatic winding
Calibre: 11 1/2’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 44
Power reserve: minimum 46 hours
Functions: hour, minute, small seconds, annual calendar, equation of time

Strap
Alligator strap with pin buckle

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle « Calibre 2253 » in Platinum

January 23, 2010January 15, 2022 MasterHorologer2 Comments

For 2010, Vacheron Constantin presents the Patrimony Traditionnelle “Calibre 2253” watch in the Collection Excellence Platine. This model features a major astronomical complication in terms of technical application.

Entirely constructed by Vacheron Constantin’s engineering department and developed over several thousands of hours, the new Calibre 2253 provides information derived from Earth’s orbit around the sun, notably a perpetual calendar, the equation of time and the times of sunrise and sunset. It has a tourbillon escapement as well.

To celebrate its 250th anniversary in 2005, Vacheron Constantin introduced the Saint-Gervais watch. Its Calibre 2250 tourbillon movement with a perpetual calendar had the then exceptional running time of 250 hours from the energy stored in four mainspring barrels. The experience gained in making the Calibre 2250 was applied to the development of the Calibre 2253. The new movement benefited from the latest techniques deployed by the manufacturer’s technicians, engineers and watchmakers.

Despite supporting extra mechanical complexity, the Calibre 2253 exhibits a breathtaking amount of power reserve – some 336 hours or 14 days of running time drawn from two pairs of coupled barrels. The power reserve is shown through the sapphire-crystal caseback.

However, because the Earth’s orbit is elliptical rather than circular, the time in relation to the sun varies daily. The noon zenith of the sun when it crosses the observer’s meridian seldom occurs at exactly 12 o’clock by his watch.

In fact solar time and mean time coincide just four times a year – on April 15, June 14, September 1 and December 24. For the rest of the year, the difference between solar and mean time varies from minus 16 minutes to plus 16 minutes.

The oldest clock showing the equation of time was made by the mathematician Nikolaus Mercator in the 17th century. It enabled folk to covert the sun’s varying noon to the standard constant time shown on their watches. Since then, the rare instruments calculating the equation of time have been the work of extremely accomplished horologists.

Making this complication work does indeed call for particular skill. It depends on the equation cam, a waisted oval, shaped like a figure 8 and calculated according to the daily declination of the sun observed from a given spot.

The cam rotates once a year while a hand following its contour indicates the equation of time at between 10 and 11 o’clock on the dial of the Patrimony Traditionnelle “Calibre 2253” timepiece of the Collection Excellence Platine.

This timepiece displays another function seldom found in watches – the times of sunrise and sunset throughout the year at a given locality. This tricky complication also relies on a cam, the outline of which is calculated according to the latitude of the locality. It demonstrates both the skill of the manufacture’s engineers and watchmakers and Vacheron Constantin’s attention to its clients, for they can choose the place of the sunrises and sunsets. To this extent it’s a custom-made complication where the dials are paired at 8 o’clock and 4 o’clock on the face.

The tourbillon carriage, as always in the shape of the brand emblem, a Maltese Cross, rotates once a minute at 6 o’clock as a small seconds indication. The indications of the perpetual calendar are symmetrically laid out with the days, the months and the dates at 9, 12 and 3 o’clock respectively. The leap-year indicator makes a circumspect appearance on the upper right.

The sophisticated finish of this watch is taken to the limits to match its complexity. As part of the Collection Excellence Platine this Patrimony Traditionnelle “Calibre 2253” unsurprisingly incorporates many elements in platinum, from its 43 mm case, water-resistant at a pressure of 3 bar or 30 meters, to its dial hallmarked “PT950”, its crown and its folding clasp in the shape of a halved Maltese Cross.

There is one other most unusual, if not unique, horological feature: even the Dauphine hands that show the hours and minutes are fashioned in the same material – an incredible technical prowess. The decoration of the dial alternates silvered and frosted surfaces, with snailed chapters, circular-brushed subdials and diamond-polished filets. The applied hour markers and Maltese Cross are in white gold.

The Calibre 2253 movement also bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, which is an independent and legally sanctioned label of workmanship, origin, precision, resilience and competence.

This seal of watchmaking perfection, among the oldest of professional labels, is reserved for a handful of Geneva manufacturers. It means that such decorative aspects of the movement as Côtes de Genève, circular graining, chamfering and straight graining of the steelwork are entirely done by hand.

The finish of the thin bridge that holds the tourbillon is an example among many. It consists of rounding off the top of the rectangular steel bar with a file to create a gleaming barrel-vault along its upper length. The camber follows the shape of the bridge from its jewelled centre to its winged extremities.

The entire operation involves grinding and smoothing the surface with a variety of stones and abrasive pastes and then buffing it to a high polish. To meet Vacheron Constantin’s standards of finish, this job takes around 11 hours and is done entirely by hand, but it does signify a properly finished movement.

Such is the complexity and level of finish of this horological masterpiece, that it comprises no fewer than 457 parts in a movement only 9.60 mm thick. That explains why the production is limited to just 10 pieces.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle « Calibre 2253 » in Platinum

Movement
Calibre 2253, developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin, Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva
Energy: Mechanical, manual-winding
Movement thickness: 9.60 mm
Movement diameter: 32.00 mm
Jewels: 30 jewels
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: More than 300 hours (14 days) – 4 main springs, coupled two by two
Number of parts : 457 pieces

Indications
Hours, minutes, seconds on tourbillon
Perpetual calendar
Equation of time, sunset and sunrise(Ephemeris to the localization chosen by the client)
Power reserve on the caseback

Case
950 platinum
Diameter: 43 mm
Convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on one side
Open-worked screwed-down back
Water-resistance:3 bar, equivalent to 30 metres

Dial
Sand-blasted finish, special “PT950” marking at 4.30;12 hour-markers and Maltese Cross in 18-carat white gold
Black painted minute-track

Strap
Dark blue alligator leather, hand-stitched with platinum thread
Clasp: 950 platinum folding clasp; Polished half Maltese Cross

Edition
Limited edition of 10 numbered pieces

Patrimony Traditionnelle Collection Excellence Platine Edition 2010

Platinum, at the top of the hierarchy of precious metals, denotes the highest prestige in fine watchmaking. Extremely rare, it can be used to protect only watch movements of the most elaborate complexity. Vacheron Constantin thus gives full honour to this most precious of metals by choosing it to encase the very complicated movements of three models introduced in 2010.

The Patrimony Traditionnelle “Calibre 2253” model in the Collection Excellence Platine is an outstanding timepiece and chief among the Grand Complication models presented by Vacheron Constantin at the SIHH 2010. In addition to the tourbillon escapement, it includes such astronomical complications as the perpetual calendar, the times of sunrise and sunset and the equation of time. Furthermore it has an exceptional running time of 14 days. Only 10 numbered pieces will be produced in this limited edition.

The Patrimony Traditionnelle “Calibre 2755” watch in platinum concentrates the major complications in which Vacheron Constantin excels both technically and stylistically. It combines the tourbillon and the perpetual calendar with a minute-repeater that features an original and completely silent mechanism to pace the strike.

The third model, also in platinum, is the Patrimony Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar “Calibre 1141QP”, which embodies the Vacheron Constantin convention in styling. It brings together a chronograph and a perpetual calendar driven by a highly regarded hand-wound movement. The Calibre 1141 is an exceptional design that has been used in some of the best chronographs. Experts consider it a model of highly complex chronograph construction.

Patrimony Traditionnelle Collection

In the world of Vacheron Constantin, the Patrimony collection best expresses the manufacturing company’s genetic makeup – the inher-itance of skills painstakingly acquired since its inception. Their round cases span the past and the future as an eternal design of natural elegance that needs no adornment, for the simple beauty of time-honored workmanship is sufficient to denote Swiss watchmaking of the highest order.

The Patrimony Traditionnelle collection remains true to the artistry apparent in some of Vacheron Constantin’s finest historical work. Beyond the studied restraint of the styling, the collection symbolizes certain values shared by those who treasure fine horology.

Those who know something about watches will appreciate the finer points of the company’s “special reserve” watchmaking: the thin bezel, the knurled surround of the screw-held caseback with its sapphire-crystal window, the perfectly ground trapezoid marking each hour – with a pair for the 6 and the 12 – and the faceted Dauphine hands on silvery dials of varied hues. The case, with welded lugs, has a stepped profile bisected by a cleanly drawn caseband.

The artistic heritage of the Patrimony Traditionnelle collection, expressed in today’s terms, serves as a reminder that tradition and modernity coexist as a matter of course at Vacheron Constantin.

Such established artistic parameters can be readily applied across the range of watches in the Patrimony Traditionnelle collection, from a self-winding wristwatch confined to the hours, minutes and seconds, to a minute-repeating tourbillon watch with a perpetual calendar. Extending from straightforward to extremely involved mechanisms, the collection proclaims Vacheron Constantin’s spirit of invention and pays tribute to two-and-a-half centuries of history.

The Collection Excellence Platine

Platinum’s rarity, purity and incorruptibility qualify it as supreme among symbols of excellence. Vacheron Constantin started working with platinum in the early 19th century to offer its clients pieces in the most valuable of all metals.

While 18-carat gold contains 75% of the pure metal, platinum is 95% pure. Platinum is also 30 times scarcer than gold and there are very few deposits. Its hardness and density make it more resistant than any other metal and thus the best choice for an everlasting object. A scratch in platinum displaces rather than removes material, avoiding the loss through wear and tear of a softer metal. Platinum’s ability to retain its full weight and value has made it popular as a token of eternity. Platinum has other remarkable features: it is malleable and very ductile. A gram of the metal can be drawn into a thread almost two kilometers long.

To herald the start of another quarter millennium in 2006, the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin, in tribute to the most extraordinary and aristocratic of precious metals, decided that all platinum watches would henceforth be initially produced in limited editions of never more than 150 pieces.

Their availability would be reserved for collectors and connoisseurs. The Collection Excellence Platine was thus born. In addition to a platinum caseband, each watch in the collection has a rare watchmaking feature that distinguishes it from other watches in this metal.

These might include a clasp, a winding crown or hands in platinum, as well as a brushed platinum dial, discreetly hallmarked “PT950”. Attention to detail is taken to the extreme of using platinum thread entwined with silk to sew the dark blue alligator straps fitted to these watches.

Long reserved for royalty, platinum conveys unrivalled distinction, attracting both arbiters of taste and well-informed collectors. Such owners of Vacheron Constantin timepieces in platinum know that they belong to a most exclusive club.

Patek Philippe Star Caliber 2000

October 20, 2009October 20, 2022 MasterHorologer

Unveiled in 2000, the Patek Philippe Star Caliber is a dual faced grand complication pocket watch. Created to mark the arrival of the third millennium, this spectacular timepiece incorporates 21 complications.

The Star Caliber 2000 is the result of eight years of meticulous research and development by Patek Philippe. Incorporating six patented innovations, it is the only pocket watch ever to reproduce exactly the celebrated chimes of the Westminster clock tower in London.

Its “running” equation of time, synchronized with the perpetual calendar, enables the reading of local mean time and true solar time. The indications of sunrise and sunset, the celestial chart and the moon-phases also accord their movements with the perpetual calendar, whose innovations include a rapid correction feature, which simultaneously adjusts all indications to the perpetual calendar date. A further distinction is the ingenious system for opening the two covers by means of the pendant at three o’clock.

Comprised of more than 1,000 parts, Star Caliber is one of the most complex manually wound watch movements ever made. It is the third most complicated Patek Philippe watch after the Calibre 89 and the Henry Graves Super complication.

Patek Philippe created this masterpiece in three types of gold – yellow, white and rose gold – as well as in platinum. It has two dial sides: Solar / Time and Lunar / Celestial.

In the Solar / Time dial side, the Star Caliber 2000 displays Time (Hours, minutes, seconds), Power reserves of the movement and the chime, Date, Year, Day of the week, Month, Season, Sunrise and sunset, 24-hour day/night display and Running equation of time.

In the Lunar / Celestial Side, it offers Sky chart, Time of meridian passage by Sirius, Lunar orbit, Moon phases and Time of meridian passage by the moon.

Technical details

Name of the timepiece: Patek Philippe Star Caliber 2000

Movement
Star Caliber
Manual winding
Two barrels (movement and chiming mechanism) with bidirectional winding
Escapement: Swiss lever escapement
Balance: Screw balance
Balance spring: Breguet
Power reserve of movement: 30 hours, barrel limited to 4 revolutions
Power reserve of chime: 24 hours when set to strike in passing (without operation of the minute repeater), barrel limited to 5 revolutions
Diameter: 55.40 mm
Height: 21.03 mm
Weight: 250 g

Displays

Solar / Time Side

Hours, minutes, seconds
Power-reserve indicator for the movement
Power-reserve indicator for the chime
Date
Year
Day of the week
Month
Season
Sunrise and sunset
24-hour day/night display
Running equation of time

Lunar / Celestial Side

Sky chart
Time of meridian passage by Sirius
Lunar orbit
Moon phases
Time of meridian passage by the moon

Number of parts of the movement

1118, of which
135 wheels
33 bridges
336 screws
292 pins
73 springs
172 other mechanical components
54 jewels
3 ball bearings
1 dial
11 hands
8 discs

Case
Material: 750 yellow, white, or rose gold or 950 platinum
Diameter: 73.20 mm
Height: 32.30 mm
Weight of gold case: 280 g
Weight of platinum case: 364 g

Dial
Enamel

Functions

In addition to displaying mean solar time in hours, minutes and seconds, the Star Caliber 2000 provides 21 additional indications.

Timekeeping functions
– Running equation of time
– Time of sunrise
– Time of sunset
– 24-hour day/night display with passage of the sun

Calendar functions
– Perpetual calendar
– Date
– Leap year cycle
– Day of the week
– Month
– Season

Astronomical functions
– Sky chart

Lunar functions
– Lunar orbit
– Moon phases

Other functions
– Power-reserve indicator for the movement
– Power-reserve indicator for the chime
– Bidirectional winding
– Precision adjustment of movement from the outside
– Pendant push button for opening sprung covers

Chiming functions
– Westminster chime in passing on five gongs
– Minute repetition on five gongs
– Chime in passing is blocked when mainspring is run down

Patents

(1) Pièce d’horlogerie à carillon: Timepiece with chime

A Grande Sonnerie automatically sounds the hours and quarter-hours in passing and the minutes on demand with tiny hammers that strike precision gongs. Pocket watches with the so-called “Westminster Chime” so far have not been capable of playing the original melody as it peals from the clock tower of the Houses of Parliament in London. Even the well-known designs with four quarter racks play an incorrect sequence of tones when the same gong must be struck twice in succession.

Now, with a mechanism patented for the Star Caliber 2000, Patek Philippe has succeeded in building the chime for a pocket watch that faithfully reproduces the Westminster melody and can also correctly strike two identical tones in immediate succession.

(2) Mouvement d’horlogerie à quantième perpétuel comportant un mécanisme à équation de temps avec affichage: Timepiece movement with perpetual calendar incorporating an equation-of-time mechanism with display

At any given moment, so-called mean solar time deviates by a few minutes from true, or apparent, solar time. This difference is referred to as the equation of time. It varies from day to day and in mechanical watches can be displayed with the aid of a special cam mechanism.

If the cam for the equation of time is not synchronized with the calendar, the deviation between actual time and displayed time will grow progressively. This is also the case when the watch is reset to the correct date after having been left unwound for a longer period of time.

To correct such a deviation, a watchmaker must expend considerable effort to disassemble the watch and realign the cam that controls the equation of time to the correct date. In the design patented by Patek Philippe, however, the cam is controlled directly by the perpetual calendar mechanism. Thus, the display of the equation of time always corresponds to the current date.

(3) Mécanisme de lever et coucher du soleil destiné à équiper un mouvement d’horlogerie à quantième: Sunrise and sunset mechanism intended for a calendar watch movement

The sunrise and sunset times at a specific location depend on the date, and the respective displays are controlled by cams. If these cams are not synchronized with the calendar, the deviation between actual and displayed sunrise and sunset times will grow progressively. This is also the case when the watch is reset to the correct date after having been left unwound for a longer period of time.

To correct such a deviation, a watchmaker must expend considerable effort to disassemble the watch and realign the cams that control the display of sunrise and sunset times to the correct date. In the design patented by Patek Philippe, however, the cams are controlled directly by the perpetual calendar mechanism. Thus, the times displayed always correspond to the current date.

(4) Mécanisme additionel de représentation astronomique pour pièces d’horlogerie: Supplementary astronomical display mechanism for timepieces

In conventional astronomical displays, the moon phases are indicated on a small subsidiary dial and a separate hand indicates lunation. If integrated in the celestial dial, these displays typically cover a significant portion of the sky chart.

The refined design developed for the Star Caliber 2000, however, makes it possible to display the moon phases and the lunar orbit in a manner which only marginally affects the size of the sky chart so that many more stars can be depicted than is the case with customary designs for pocket watches of a comparable format.

(5) Rapid calendar correction

Owners of watches with perpetual calendars know how cumbersome it can be to set the display to the correct date when the movement has been left unwound for a long period of time. Usually, this requires pushing several buttons in the case – often dozens or even hundreds of times, depending on how long the watch remained unwound.

This awkward procedure has been considerably simplified by the patented rapid correction feature of the Star Caliber 2000. With one single push of the rapid corrector slide, the owner can perform a correction of nearly one month. And because of the extensive synchronization concept, the running equation of time as well as the sunrise and sunset times are corrected automatically. Once the date is set, only two more adjustments are required: the day of the week and the time.

(6) Pièce d’horlogerie, notamment montre de poche, munie d’un couvercle sur chaque face: Timepiece, especially pocket watch, with sprung covers on both sides

Ordinary pocket watches with front and back sprung covers generally have a push button inside the crown or a slide in the case for opening the covers. In contrast, the Star Caliber 2000 has a bow with a Calatrava cross engraved on one side; it can be pushed in and rotated by 180°. Depending on the direction in which the Calatrava cross is facing, the front or back sprung cover will open when the push button in the winding crown is pressed.

This sophisticated and complex mechanism is fully integrated in the bow. Its design is very elegant and aesthetic, and it also has symbolic meaning: 150 years ago, Patek Philippe co-founder Adrien Philippe invented a keyless mechanism for winding a movement with a crown in the bow.

Since its first one was granted in 1845 (invention of the crown for winding the movement and setting the hands), Patek Philippe has received some 70 patents.

Technical details

Model: Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus Reference 9700C/000R-B755

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Model: Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 REF. 5887BR/G2/9WV

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Les Cabinotiers: one-of-a-kind creations

Vacheron Constantin and chiming watches

A sound print certified by Abbey Road Studios

Technical details

Collection: “La Musique du Temps®”, Les Cabinotiers: one-of-a-kind creations Model: Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-seconds chronograph – Tempo Reference 9740C/000R-B692

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Model: QP à Équation In 5N red gold – Millésimé Chocolate-coloured dial

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Model: Blancpain Le Brassus Equation Marchante Platinum Ref. 4238-3442-55

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The Blancpain APOTHEOSIS TEMPORIS Set consists of platinum versions following watch models:-

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Model: Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887 Ref. 5887PT/Y2/9WV

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Model: Vacheron Constantin Maître Cabinotier Astronomica Reference: 80174/000G-9995 Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

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Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Caliber 2253 Moscow Boutique Edition Reference: 88172/000P-F417 Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece Special product for Vacheron Constantin Moscow Boutique

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Model: Antoine Martin Tourbillon Astronomique TA01.710.1

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Model: Girard-Perregaux 1966 Annual calendar and Equation of time Pink Gold Reference 49538-52-231-BK6A

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Model: Girard-Perregaux 1966 Annual Calendar and Equation of Time

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Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle « Calibre 2253 » in Platinum

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Technical details

Name of the timepiece: Patek Philippe Star Caliber 2000

Displays

Solar / Time Side

Lunar / Celestial Side

Number of parts of the movement

Functions

Patents

(1) Pièce d’horlogerie à carillon: Timepiece with chime

(2) Mouvement d’horlogerie à quantième perpétuel comportant un mécanisme à équation de temps avec affichage: Timepiece movement with perpetual calendar incorporating an equation-of-time mechanism with display

(3) Mécanisme de lever et coucher du soleil destiné à équiper un mouvement d’horlogerie à quantième: Sunrise and sunset mechanism intended for a calendar watch movement

(4) Mécanisme additionel de représentation astronomique pour pièces d’horlogerie: Supplementary astronomical display mechanism for timepieces

(5) Rapid calendar correction

(6) Pièce d’horlogerie, notamment montre de poche, munie d’un couvercle sur chaque face: Timepiece, especially pocket watch, with sprung covers on both sides

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Model: Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus
Reference 9700C/000R-B755

Model: Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887
REF. 5887BR/G2/9WV

Collection: “La Musique du Temps®”, Les Cabinotiers: one-of-a-kind creations
Model: Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-seconds chronograph – Tempo
Reference 9740C/000R-B692

Model: QP à Équation
In 5N red gold – Millésimé
Chocolate-coloured dial

Model: Blancpain Le Brassus Equation Marchante Platinum
Ref. 4238-3442-55

Model: Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887
Ref. 5887PT/Y2/9WV

Model: Vacheron Constantin Maître Cabinotier Astronomica
Reference: 80174/000G-9995
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Caliber 2253 Moscow Boutique Edition
Reference: 88172/000P-F417
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Special product for Vacheron Constantin Moscow Boutique

Model: Girard-Perregaux 1966 Annual calendar and Equation of time Pink Gold
Reference 49538-52-231-BK6A