Tag Archives: DOUBLE TOURBILLON

NOVELTIES 2022, Uncategorized

Zenith Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon

ZENITH presents its most advanced and complicated chronograph movement to date, the Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon. It incorporates two independent tourbillon mechanisms. For the first time, this exceptional 1/100th of a second high-frequency chronograph movement will join the DEFY Extreme core collection in two serially produced references.

Constructed like no other chronograph movement, El Primero 9020 is equipped with two independent tourbillons completing rotations in 60 seconds for the time-keeping tourbillon and 5 seconds for the chronograph’s tourbillon, making it among the fastest tourbillons ever made, as well as the only 1/100th of a second chronograph, beating at the phenomenal rate of 360’000 VpH.

Perfectly suitable for housing such an intricate and complex movement, the Zenith DEFY Extreme Double Tourbillon’s angular and robust case measures 45mm wide and is available in two executions.

The first is crafted entirely in titanium with a mix of satin-brushed, polished and matte surfaces including the bracelet, while the second is done in carbon fiber with sandblasted matte rose gold twelve-sided bezel and pusher protectors on a black textured rubber strap.

Its open dial, with applied chronograph counters and tinted transparent sapphire elements, allows for an unobstructed view of the groundbreaking movement and its two tourbillon mechanisms with star-shaped cages.

The movement’s open and satin-brushed bridges are coated in a layer of black PVD. Then, the edges of those bridges are highlighted in rose gold color, revealing the geometric forms of the bridges in a true departure from traditional watchmaking decoration techniques.

The DEFY Extreme Double Tourbillon will be available from physical and online Zenith boutiques around as well as official retailers around the world.

Technical details

Model: Zenith Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon

Reference: 12.9100.9020/78.I200

Case
Material: Black Carbon & 18-ct rose gold
Case diameter: 45 mm
Water-resistance: 20 ATM

Dial
Open-worked
Hour-markers: Gold-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1 [Hour markers]
Hands: Gold-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1 [Hands]

Strap
Black Rubber with microblasted titanium triple folding clasp
Additional strap: Velcro

Price
79,000

Reference: 95.9100.9020/78.I001

Case
Diameter: 45 mm
Material: Brushed titanium
Water-resistance: 20 ATM

Dial
Open-worked
Hour-markers: Gold-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1 [Hour markers]
Hands: Gold-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1 [Hands]

Bracelet
Titanium bracelet with titanium folding clasp

Price
69,000

Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon: Movement and functions

Movement
El Primero 9020
1/100th of a second Double Tourbillon Chronograph movement
Power-reserve: min. 50 hours for the watch / 50 min for the chronograph
1 escapement for the Watch (36,000 VpH / 5 Hz – cage makes a turn in 60 second)
1 escapement for the Chronograph (360,000 VpH / 50 Hz – cage makes a turn in 5 second)
Certified Chronometer

Functions
Hours and minutes in the centr
Double Tourbillon
1/100th of a second Chronograph:
– Central chronograph hand that makes one turn each second
– 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
– 60-second counter at 6 o’clock
– Chronograph power-reserve indication at 12 o’clock
Finishes: Special oscillating weight with satined finishings

NOVELTIES 2022

Roger Dubuis Excalibur DT White Ceramic and EON GOLD Boutique Edition

This limited edition boutique exclusive watch blends the precious EON GOLDTM and White Ceramic. Inside this timepiece beats a manual-winding Skeleton double flying tourbillon movement manufactured in the Roger Dubuis workshop in Geneva.

It has a white ceramic case measuring 45mm diameter. The crown, bezel and the case-back ring are made of EON GOLDTM, a specific 750/1000 5N gold alloy that is more resistant to tarnishing when exposed to extreme conditions.

Re-engineered and improved performances with a power reserve of 72 hour, better resistance to magnetism thanks to tourbillon carriages made in titanium and cobalt-chrome.

Two tourbillons linked with a differential directly connected to the second wheel of the gear train for a better transmission of the energy.

The skeleton calibres manufactured by Roger Dubuis comply with one of the most respected certifications of Haute Horlogerie, the Poinçon de Genève.

This Excalibur Skeleton double flying tourbillon watch is limited to 8 pieces.

Technical details

Movement
Calibre RD108
Manual-winding Skeleton double flying tourbillon movement
Functions: Hours, minutes
Frequency: 3 Hz / 21’600 Vibrations per Hour
Power reserve: 72 Hours
Diameter lines: 16 3/4
Thickness: 7.35 Millimeters
Number of pieces: 319
Number of rubies: 32
Finishing: Shot-blasted, trued-up or circular-grained main plate and bridge with NAC coating

Case
White Ceramic case with sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
EON gold bezel
EON gold crown
EON gold open case back with sapphire crystal
Case diameter: 45 Millimeters
Water resistance: 10 Bar (100m)

Dial
White Mineral Composite Fiber double surface flange with engraved minute track and transferred texts, polished and pink gold 750/1000 plated hour markers with SLN in the center

Hands
Triple surface hands in pink gold with satin brushed finish on the tilted surfaces and shot-blasted finish on the flat grey surface, SLN tips

Strap
Premium calf leather strap
The strap is interchangeable thanks to Quick Release System.
Pink gold cover 750/1000 with titanium blades, triple folding, interchangeable with Quick Release System – QRS

NOVELTIES 2022

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Tourbillon Black Ceramic Limited Edition

In 2021, Roger Dubuis introduced the new evolution of the Excalibur Double Tourbillon watch. Now, the Geneva based high horology Maison unveils its latest variation in radiant black ceramic.


This new ceramic watch is driven by the Roger Dubuis RD108 mechanical calibre. Boasting two signature tourbillons, this enhanced horological engine represents a feat of enhanced precision and technical prowess. Both tourbillons are rebuilt with lighter materials and an enhanced differential to maximise the transmission of energy.

Its tourbillon lower carriage is made in titanium for improving energy efficiency and upper tourbillon carriage in cobalt chrome for better finishing: mirror polish. Both titanium and cobalt chrome are anti-magnetic. Manually wind, the RD108 calibre offers an impressive power reserve of 72 hours.


This extremely complex mechanical skeleton movement’s sense of transparency and 3D depth is heighted by the Roger Dubuis star levitating freely above the barrel. Clean cut lines on both the 45mm case and movement create its strong visual identity and give the impression of a thinner look and feel.

This dynamic aesthetic is amplified by its decorations, hand-finished with precision and rewarded with the Poinçon de Geneve; one of the most demanding signatures in fine watchmaking.

Hyper durable and expressive, the latest variation of the Excalibur Double Tourbillon debuts with a radiant black ceramic case, striking in its intensely high scratch-resistance.

Limited to just 28 pieces, this timepiece comes with a black calf-leather strap with versatile Quick Release System.

Technical details

Model: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Tourbillon Black Ceramic
RDDBEX0820 – EXCALIBUR – EXCALIBUR DT

Movement
Caliber RD108

Manual-winding Skeleton double flying tourbillon movement: manufactured in the Roger Dubuis workshop in Geneva. Re-engineered and improved performances with a power reserve of 72 hour, better resistance to magnetism thanks to tourbillon carriages made in titanium and cobalt-chrome. Two tourbillons linked with a differential directly connected to the second wheel of the gear train for a better transmission of the energy. Poinçon de Genève certified, one of the most demanding certifications in the world of Haute Horlogerie
Finishing: Shot-blasted, trued-up or circular-grained main plate and bridge with NAC coating
Functions: Hours, minutes
Frequency: 3 Hz / 21’600 Vibrations per Hour
Power reserve: 72 Hours
Diameter lines: 16 3/4
Thickness: 7.35 Millimeters
Number of pieces: 319
Number of rubies: 32

Case
Black ceramic case
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Black titanium DLC open case back with sapphire crystal
Diameter: 45 Millimeters
Water resistance: 5 BAR (50m)

Dial
Grey double surface flange with engraved minute track and transferred texts, polished and Rhodium plated hour markers with SLN in the center

Hands
Grey double surface flange with engraved minute track and transferred texts, polished and Rhodium plated hour markers with SLN in the center

Strap
3D calf leather strap, interchangeable with Quick Release System – QRS

Buckle
Black DLC titanium cover, titanium blades, triple-folding, interchangeable with Quick Release System – QRS

Edition
Limited edition of 28 pieces

Certification
Geneva seal

NOVELTIES 2021

Louis Moinet ASTRONEF Limited Edition

A true marvel of contemporary mechanical watchmaking, ASTRONEF combines ancestral know-how with futuristic technology.

The complex dial of the Louis Moinet ASTRONEF watch is made from a plate measuring a total 0.6mm thick, from which 0.2 mm is then hollowed out to reveal the numerals and a rack, in order to create a depth effect facilitating readings. The ensuing deep black DLC treatment creates a striking contrast with the rhodium plating and endows it with a two-tone hue. Finally, a circular satin-brushed finish is applied to instill it with undeniable strength of character.

The case of ASTRONEF incorporates a sapphire container mounted on an 18K gold frame, open-worked lugs and case middle and a sapphire dome and its applied inner bezel ring.

The curved crystal reveals the ASTRONEF mechanism, which required more than three years of research. It proudly showcases two tourbillons rotating in opposite directions at high speed. They cross paths 18 times per hour (every 3 minutes and 20 seconds) and are built on two different levels. In all, six distinct elements are in motion: two satellite tourbillons rotating around the dial, as well as their two cages and their two counterweights.

This mysterious horological mechanism is hidden in the base of the frame, which is only 3.75 mm thick. The advantage of this construction is that it clears the stage to enhance the magic of the show being staged. The spectacular design linked to the complexity of the mechanism is marked by its control tower – or central column – which transmits the orders to the tourbillons and hands.

Finally, the mechanical part is ennobled by a powerful and modern engine that endows it with a very high level of performance, making it even more efficient than a single tourbillon.

The tourbillon cages are geometrically shaped. The weight of a cage is only 0.25 grams, in order to guarantee the correct speed through fine poising. Each cage rotates in 60 seconds and requires perfect poising, which also relies on an 18K gold counterweight weighing 0.4 grams.


Placing the selector on the back of the case enabled a gain in volume and this device plays two distinct roles: time-setting or winding. The crown is no longer pulled out; it is used to set the hands or to wind the mechanism.

The LM105 manual winding movement beats at the rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) and provides a power reserve of up to 48 hours.

A presentation box is specially made for each Louis Moinet ASTRONEF. Finely crafted by an artisan, it notably features a straw marquetry motif in various shades and the buyer can choose from several different graphic design alternatives.

ASTRONEF is limited to only eight pieces.

Technical details

Movement
Calibre LM105
Manufacture Calibre with flying satellite double tourbillon
Manual winding
Double tourbillon for enhanced accuracy
Perfect rotation and poising of the rotating elements
– Five ball-bearing mechanisms with seven ceramic bearings
– One ball-bearing mechanism with nine ceramic bearings
Two barrels, each supplies its energy to the tourbillon
471components
Frequency: 3 Hz
Jewels: 56
Power reserve: 48 hours

Display
Hours and minutes

Case
18K rose gold frame, diameter: 43.5mm
Sapphire container, diameter: 41.6mm
Lug width: 24mm
Water resistance: 10 meters

Strap
Alligator strap with folding clasp

NOVELTIES 2021

Zenith: DEFY Zero-G Sapphire & DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire Limited Editions

Swiss luxury watch manufacture Zenith has re-imagined two of its most extraordinary movements through contemporary architecture and finishing techniques that can be admired through luminous and transparent sapphire cases.

These two horological marvels place Zenith’s uniquely futuristic and evocative aesthetic centre-stage, using novel and original decoration methods.

First, all the movement’s components are treated with blue PVD. The inscriptions as well as decorative elements like miniature stars are then carefully engraved onto the bridges, after which the chamfered edges of the bridges are precisely finished with a rhodium-coloured PVD that provides a striking contrast and adds even more visual depth to an already intricately layered movement with its futuristic form. Framed by totally transparent sapphire cases, the movements shine in a light of their own – and from all angles.

Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire Limited Edition

For the latest execution of the fastest tourbillon chronograph around – equipped with two independent tourbillons completing rotations in 60 seconds for the time-keeping tourbillon and 5 seconds for the chronograph’s tourbillon – Zenith took its evocative “starry sky” aesthetic to new cosmic heights in the DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire, with a nod to the universe and space exploration.

Visible for all to admire through the crystalline case, the DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon’s exceptional chronograph movement is rendered in a stellar and futuristic aesthetic.

The main plate of the movement is finished in a striking blue PVD tone, and in a first for Zenith, some of the dial-side bridges are engraved with stars, like a distant galaxy of micro-mechanics in perpetual motion.

Truly at the summit of precision, the 1/00th of a second chronograph moves at incredible speed, juxtaposed against a still, starry backdrop.

Zenith DEFY Zero-G Sapphire Limited Edition

Overcoming the effects of gravity on chronometric precision has long been watchmakers’ ultimate goal. Zenith accomplished precisely this with its Gravity Control mechanism, where the regulating organ is fixed to a gimbal that always remains in a flat position regardless of how the watch is rotated.

In this new timepiece, Zenith has completely redesigned the entire movement with a new architecture to enable a more open and exhibitive display, encapsulated in a transparent sapphire case that allows the singular mechanism to be admired from all angles: a first for the Manufacture.

Like an object suspended in space and free from the effects of gravity, the off-centred dial of the DEFY Zero-G Sapphire combines several traditional crafts in a contemporary execution, handcrafted in a mosaic of meteorite, aventurine glass and grand feu enamel on a gold base.

It depicts planet Mars on the small seconds, partially eclipsed by the hour and minute dial. A special touch that can only be seen when the watch is overhead is the back of the gyroscopic module, fashioned with a cratered texture mimicking the moon.

The entire main plate and bridges of the movement are finished in a blue tone with contrasting grey rhodium chamfers, speckled with white stars of varying sizes. This astronomically inspired finish extends to the movement’s cylindrical container, which can also be viewed through the sides of the case.

The DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire and DEFY Zero-G Sapphire will be produced as a limited edition of 10 pieces each.

For the 20 owners of the DEFY Zero-G Sapphire and DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire limited editions, Zenith is offering the opportunity to live an unforgettable experience: a parabolic zero-gravity flight. Scheduled to take place in February 2022, Zenith has partnered with Novespace, a subsidiary of the French National Space Center, to offer the experience of weightlessness.

Guests will arrive at the Novespace facility in Bordeaux, France, where they will meet with their instructors. French astronaut Jean-François Clervoy will also be present at the pre-flight conference. The flight itself will consist of 15 parabolas, where the airplane ascends than plunges in a freefall to reproduces the effect of floating in weightlessness in a perceived absence of gravity.

Technical details

Model: Zenith Defy 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire
Reference: 04.9000.9020/00.R920

Movement
El Primero 9020 automatic
1/100th of a second Double Tourbillon Chronograph movement
1 Tourbillon escapement for the Watch (36,000 VpH – 5 Hz)
1Tourbillon escapement for the Chronograph (360,000 VpH – 50 Hz)
Exclusive dynamic signature of one rotation per second for the Chrono hand
Certified Chronometer
Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)
Power reserve: approx. 50 hours

Functions
Hours and minutes in the centre
Double Tourbillon1 escapement for the Watch (36,000 VpH / 5 Hz – cage makes a turn in 60 seconds)
1 escapement for the Chronograph (360,000 VpH / 50 Hz – cage makes a turn in 5 seconds)
1/100th of a second Chronograph: Central chronograph hand that makes one turn each second, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, 60-second counter at 6 o’clock, Chronograph power-reserve indication at 12 o’clock

Case
Material: Sapphire
Diameter: 46mm
Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Dial
Open-worked
Hour markers: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with Super-Luminova® SLN C1
Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with Super-Luminova® SLN C1

Bracelet
Black rubber with blue “cordura effect” fabric & grey stitching
Titanium double folding clasp

Edition
Limited edition 10 pieces

Price
180,000 CHF

Model: Zenith Defy Zero G Sapphire
Reference: 04.9000.8812/00.R920

Movement
El Primero 8812 S manual
Entirely skeletonised movement
“Gravity Control” gyroscopic module that ensures horizontal positioning of the regulating organ
Frequency 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)
Power reserve: approx. 50 hours
Finishes: Exclusive bicolor signature on plates and bridges. Starry Sky finishing.

Functions
Hours and minutes excentred at 12 o’clock
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Self-regulating Gravity Control module at 6 o’clock
Power-reserve indication at 2 o’clock

Case
Material: Sapphire
Diameter: 46mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Dial
Open-worked with meteorite & Aventurine hour & minute dial
Hour markers: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1
Hands: Rhodium-plated and faceted gold, coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1

Bracelet
Black rubber with blue “cordura effect” fabric& grey stitching
Titanium double folding clasp

Edition
Limited edition of 10 pieces

Price
160,000 CHF

NOVELTIES 2021

Arnold & Son Double Tourbillon Jade

Arnold & Son is celebrating its Double Tourbillon collection with the unveiling of two unique pieces adorned with dazzling green jade and delicate white opal. The two independent tourbillons and two time zones of this rare model have taken on a new face.

The new Double Tourbillon Jade models are available in either red gold or white gold. The green jade dial is punctuated by two opal sub dials in immaculate white. The A&S8513 calibre allows its two independent tourbillons to emerge into view above these rare stones. United by a shared main plate, each displays a different time zone.

Sourced from Wyoming, the bright green nephrite (jade) known as “Apple Green” is slightly veined with black. This brings greater depth, contrast and makes the stone all the more precious.

The dial plate of the Double Tourbillon Jade has been expertly cut in a very particular way. In the shape of a clover, the main plate allows both dials and tourbillons to emerge to their full height. This complicates the stone cutting and engraving stages, which further underlines the mastery of the work.

The Double Tourbillon Jade movement is integrated into a red gold or white gold case with a diameter of 43.5 mm. Its sapphire crystal is domed, accommodating the height created by the two tourbillons. These are attached to a three-dimensional, skeletonized, cantilevered bridge, and are made in the same gold as the case.

Paying homage to its founder, John Arnold, one of the most inventive watchmakers of his time and of the golden age of chronometry, Arnold & Son has always approached the double time zone with sophistication and precision. Instead of the classic “GMT” system, where an hour hand in the centre indicates the second time zone, Arnold & Son has chosen to give each time zone its own regulating organ: a reminder of the duality of time telling methods – timepieces on one hand, astronomy on the other – used on board English frigates in the 18th century.

The A&S8513 calibre is therefore equipped with two barrels and two crowns that control the two time zones. At midday, the local time is visible in Roman numerals. At six o’clock, Arabic numerals indicate the time of a second, more distant place that has a connection to the wearer. The two time zones are set completely independently down to the minute. Unlike most so-called travel watches, the Double Tourbillon Jade can therefore follow time zones offset by 15, 30 or 45 minutes, as is the case with certain countries in Central Asia.

The structure of the movement can be seen on the back of the Double Tourbillon Jade. From the radiant Côtes de Genève to the circular-graining on the main plate, double snailing of the barrels, sunray decoration on the crown wheels, and polish on the gold bezels held in place by blued screws, everything about the A&S8513 calibre exudes eminence, craftsmanship and excellence.

Technical details

Model: Double Tourbillon Jade

Functions
Local hours and minutes (Roman numerals)
Independent reference hours and minutes (Arabic numerals)

Movement
Calibre A&S8513, mechanical hand-wound movement
Jewels: 42
Diameter: 37.30 mm
Height: 8.35 mm
Power reserve: 90 hours
Frequency: 3 Hz / 21,600 vph

Finishes
Main plate: sunray Côtes de Genève
Bridges: rhodium (red gold) or NAC (white gold) coated, polished, and chamfered by hand
Wheels: satin finish
Bezels: 18-carat gold
Screws: bevelled, mirror polished heads
Tourbillon bridges: 18-carat gold, mirror polished with satin finish, polished and chamfered by hand
Tourbillon cages: polished and chamfered by hand

Dial
Dial base: green jade
Sub-dials: white opal

Case
Material: 18-carat white or red gold (5N)
Diameter: 43.50 mm
Crystal: Domed sapphire, anti-reflective coating on both sides
Back: Sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating
Water resistant: 30 metres/100ft

Strap
Material: Alligator leather, hand-stitched
Buckle: Pin, 18-carat white or red gold (5N)

References
1DTAR.Z01A.C120R (red gold)
1DTAW.Z01A.C121W (white gold)

Unique pieces
1 piece (red gold) and 1 piece (white gold)

Worldwide retail price
CHF 198,000, subject to change(excluding tax)

NOVELTIES 2021

ZENITH & FELIPE PANTONE DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 Unique Piece

A fervent supporter of the Only Watch auction since its very first edition in 2005, Zenith presents this time a unique piece of the DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon, the Manufacture’s most advanced and complex chronograph to date.

For its 9th consecutive contribution to the biennial Only Watch charity auction, Zenith brought acclaimed op artist Felipe Pantone onboard to take the codes from their highly acclaimed collaborative DEFY 21 Felipe Pantone and push the chromatic concept even further.

Extremely complex and highly technical, the DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon watch incorporates two independent regulating tourbillons operating at 5Hz for the timekeeping function of the movement and 50Hz for the 1/100th of a second chronograph, which rotate at rates of 60 seconds and 5 seconds respectively.

In the unique DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021, Felipe Pantone translated his acclaimed design language to the movement’s decoration as well as the open dial.

Using the principal of interference colours, the coating on the bridges reflects a gradient of metallic rainbow tones, marking the first time the innovative three-dimensional PVD with silicon particles as a surface treatment on a tourbillon chronograph movement to produce a spectrum of perfectly transitioning colours.

The entire movement is fixed within a metal container that is also given the same rainbow effect. The case back view also delights with the same rainbow PVD coating on the bridges, where “Unique Piece” is engraved on one of them under the blackened star-shaped winding rotor.

Allowing as much light as possible onto the vividly coloured inner workings of this mechanical marvel, Zenith opted for a case made entirely of transparent sapphire crystal for the first time in the Defy collection. Adored for its crystal-clear transparency and extreme hardness, synthetic sapphire requires a long series of painstaking processes to reach its final form – from precisely moulding the highly three-dimensional elements to finishing and polishing them to perfection.

On the dial side, the central hour and minute hands take on a distorted look resembling lightning bolts, a recurring element in Pantone’s work. Like the movement, a rainbow gradient of colours in PVD is applied onto the hands, while each of the applied hour markers is filled with a different colour. The moiré optical effect on the dial was produced by thin alternating white and black using fine laser-engraving and precise lacquering techniques.

The DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 comes in a special box resembling an art book, as well as an original signed artwork by Felipe Pantone. Titled “Optichromie 135 Z”, this enamel and UV paint on aluminium painting in the artist’s signature style measures 170x120cm and is in fact the artwork that Pantone created for Zenith, which was then miniaturized and reproduced for the DEFY 21 Felipe Pantone edition’s packaging.

The DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 unique piece will be auctioned by Christie’s in Geneva on November 6th 2021, with all proceeds from the sale benefitting the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathie.

Technical details

Model: Zenith Defy 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire Felipe Pantone Unique Piece
Reference: 04.9001.9020.46.R782

Movement
El Primero 9020 automatic
Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)
Power reserve approx. 50 hours
1/100th of a second Double Tourbillon Chronograph movement
1 Tourbillon escapement for the Watch (36,000 VpH – 5 Hz)
1 Tourbillon escapement for the Chronograph (360,000 VpH – 50Hz)
Exclusive dynamic signature of one rotation per second for the Chrono hand
Certified Chronometer

Functions
Hours and minutes in the centre
Double Tourbillon: 1 escapement for the Watch (36,000 VpH / 5 Hz – cage makes a turn in 60 second) 1 escapement for the Chronograph (360,000 VpH / 50 Hz – cage makes a turn in 5 second)
1/100th of a second Chronograph: Central chronograph hand that makes one turn each second, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, 60-second counter at 6 o’clock, Chronograph power-reserve indication at 12 o’clock

Movement finishes
“Rainbow” PVD-coated bridges + Black laser engraved main plate on movement and special oscillating weight

Case
Material: Sapphire
Diameter: 46mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Dial
Open-worked with rainbow finishing
Hour markers: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with “Rainbow” varnish
Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and “Rainbow” PVD coated

Bracelet
Black rubber, titanium double folding clasp

Price estimate
200’000-220’000 CHF

NOVELTIES 2020

Roger Dubuis – Excalibur Feng and Excalibur Long

To celebrate the new Chinese year, Roger Dubuis has created two special editions of its Excalibur Double Flying Tourbillon watch. These two exciting new timepieces reinterpret powerful symbols through unmatched craftsmanship: Excalibur Long, representing the majestic Dragon and Excalibur Feng, embodying the gracious Phoenix.

First in the world to introduce a double flying tourbillon, this contemporary architectural caliber is the extreme expression of the brand’s passion for recreating the codes of hyper horology.  Above and beyond its hypnotic aesthetic appeal, this calibre ensures an enhanced precision thanks to its differential system serving to average out the rate of the two tourbillons.

Brought to life in a 45mm masterpiece, the iconic Excalibur Double Flying Tourbillon is this time interpreted with an unbridled artistic creativity where 18K rose gold reigns supreme. With its head placed at 12 o’clock and its body and limbs intertwining with mechanical parts of the dial, the majestic dragon seems to be playing with this grand complication in a very daring way.

The Yin counterpart of the Dragon is here represented by the wise soul of the graceful phoenix, embracing the caliber with its wings and tail. Rarity and wisdom the Excalibur Feng is simply singular. Featuring one of the most complex of all Haute Horlogerie complications, the Excalibur Feng single flying tourbillon, with its plates and bridges pared down to extremes to only leave the essential, is a spectacular demonstration of radical watchmaking expertise.

As a flamboyant stage-setting to the highly technical nature of this tourbillon caliber, a 36mm case is here engraved with 18K rose gold. The already extraordinary allure of the Exclabur Feng is then completed with a bezel set with 48 brilliant-cut white diamonds.

Every part of the Feng, from the feathers to its body movement, has been fastidiously refined. Only by striking an obsessively balance in proportion and layout can the fascinating, vivid image of the Feng be brought to life, allowing it to spread its wings, with its plumage swirling around the tourbillon placed at the 7 o’clock mark.

These contemporary sculpted masterpieces feature a microscopic gold engraving technique – a delicate yet highly demanding craftsmanship skill highlighting their every detail: hairs, feathers, scales, and eyelids – giving life to this duo of sacred symbols in a deliberate way. A display of unparalleled expertise and craftsmanship, the Excalibur Long and Excalibur Feng are limited to eight pieces worldwide.

NOVELTIES 2020

Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge

The Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge model blends mechanical virtuosity with aesthetic mastery. Its highly visible movement reveals two tourbillons that set the whole plate in motion through a central differential. Each component is hand-finished, while the back of the movement is engraved with the “House on the Quai”, the Parisian building where Abraham-Louis Breguet fulfilled his life’s work.

The new Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge model houses a massive mechanical movement in the proportions of a watch. Working with very limited space, the Breguet Manufacture has built a complex and harmonious universe that seemingly defies the laws of physics.

Like a delicately chased sculpture, the entire exposed mechanism pivots around its axis at the rate of one full turn every 12 hours. It is propelled by two independent tourbillons, which each complete a full rotation per minute. In this way, the interconnected regulating organs perform a double revolution, simultaneously driving the tourbillon bar: the signature hours hand.

It is a remarkable display, featuring a number of components made of gold, as were those of grand complication movements back in their day – a tradition that has now been all but lost; one that the House of Breguet endeavors to perpetuate, as it does its specialist artisan techniques. This watch is a stunning display of Breguet’s expert craftsmanship – in particular the engraving on the back, which depicts the house that Abraham-Louis Breguet acquired on Quai de l’Horloge in Paris.

 

Indeed, it was at this inspiring address, nestled between the artisans of the Ile de la Cité, that the master watchmaker invented the mechanism that would become globally renowned and endure throughout the centuries. At a time when timepieces were worn vertically in the waistcoat pocket, Breguet strove to devise a way of negating the effects of Earth’s gravity, which was impacting on the chronometric accuracy of the movement.

Then the idea came to him to incorporate the balance wheel and spring as well as the escapement (lever and escape wheel) in a mobile carriage rotating on itself. The master devised the name tourbillon for this double rotation of the cage and its parts, in reference to the long-forgotten notion of a planetary system. Genius in principle and captivating in operation, the invention remains the preserve of the House of Breguet, conferring a truly special originality.

The timekeeping parts of the Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge watch are very similar technically to the original creation. The steel balance springs are endowed with the characteristic terminal curve, allowing for concentric development of the spring. It was a solution devised by the founder himself, which has since become known as the Breguet overcoil. Even now, the balance spring is still shaped by hand, while the different calibrations are also done manually, such as balancing the tourbillon cages. These carriages are the only ones in the current collection that feature a framework in black-polished steel – the highest degree of finishing in fine horology.

The two mechanical hearts beat independently from one another, each driven by their own barrel. However, the two oscillating organs are coupled with a second pair of wheels, revolving in the central differential. This double-entry mechanism is able to determine the average rate of the tourbillons, allowing for the oscillating plate to be set in motion at the rate of one full rotation every 12 hours. As for the minutes indication, it is a classic hand in the center. The entire mechanism is equipped with a system to minimize play in the wheels, ensuring a perfectly precise display.

This spectacular staging makes this caliber one of the most complex systems ever developed by the Breguet Manufacture. Its mobile nature, for example, forced the engineers to entirely review the manual winding mechanism, which now relies on independent wheel trains. One of the two barrels is equipped with a friction bridle, similar to those used on self-winding watches. This astute construction allows the spring to disengage once coiled, until the second barrel is fully wound. Lastly, the crown employs a dynamometric security system, which prevents excessive winding of the springs.

The expertise of the art of watchmaking is never without aesthetic virtuosity at Breguet. Presented for the first time in 2006, the Double Tourbillon is now liberated from the dial, revealing itself in all of its mechanical beauty. Stylised and rounded, the barrel bridges in steel take on the form of the letter B. All the components are meticulously straight-grained, chamfered, and even satin-brushed by hand.

A true signature of the House, the hand-engraving on a rose engine (guilloché work) finds a new field of expression on the movement, replacing the traditional circular graining. Laid bare as it is, the caliber exposes the inner flank of the caseband, from which the hand-engraved Roman numerals stand out echoing in their design those of the sapphire hours chapter.

Yet the unique character of this timepiece is fully revealed on its back. The treasures of mechanical ingenuity assembled for the movement leave in their wake timeless poetry. The timepiece is completed with an engraving, crafted by the artisans of the Manufacture, featuring the facade of the building occupied by Abraham-Louis Breguet from 1775 onward, at 39 Quai de l’Horloge, Paris. Etched into gold, the work abounds in such meticulous detail that through the window-panes a glimpse may be caught of the wheels of the caliber.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge
Ref. 5345PT/1S/7XU

Case
Round platinum case with finely fluted caseband
Sapphire-crystal caseback
Sapphire glass box of high transparency
Diameter: 46 mm
Thickness: 16.8 mm
Rounded welded lugs with screw bars

Dial
Sapphire dial
Individually numbered and signed Breguet
Hours chapter with Roman numerals
Open-tipped Breguet minutes hand in blued steel
Blued-steel hours hand extending along the bar supporting the two tourbillions

Movement
Manually wound mechanical movement
Cal. 588N, numbered and signed Breguet
Two tourbillons mounted on a revolving main plate hand-engraved on a rose engine
The two regulating organs are coupled to a differential that determines the average rate
Complete revolution of the main plate in 12 hours
50-hour power reserve
16½ lignes
81 jewels
738 components
Breguet balance springs
Frequency: 2.5 hertz
Monometallic balance wheels with gold screws
Adjusted in 6 positions
On the reverse side of the movement, an engraving carried out by hand depicts the building on Quai de l’Horloge in Paris

Strap
“Stone” strap, natural slate on rubber
Triple folding clasp in platinum