DE BETHUNE x VOUTILAINEN Kind of Magic for Only Watch 2021

Specially created for the Only Watch 2021 charity auction, this unique timepiece reflects the enchanting alliance between two watchmakers, Denis Flageollet and Kari Voutilainen, based on mutual respect, a common vision of watchmaking and a unique sense of independence.

DE BETHUNE x VOUTILAINEN Kind of Magic for Only Watch 2021

Equipped with two dials, this perfectly reversible watch embodies the union between two distinct but identical watchmaking worlds.

DE BETHUNE x VOUTILAINEN Kind of Magic for Only Watch 2021

This one-of-a-kind horological marvel is made of grade 5 titanium. The movement has a power reserve of 4 days.

DE BETHUNE x VOUTILAINEN Kind of Magic for Only Watch 2021

Technical details

Model: Kind of Magic for Only Watch 2021

Case
Polished grade 5 titanium
43.3mm diameter

Dial
Black hour ring with rose gold index, black minutes dial with rose gold colour transfer

Display
Hand-polished and blued titanium hours and minutes indicators
Peripheral minutes indication
Hours indication centered on balance wheel

Movement
Calibre OW21: Dual front and back display of hours and minute, jumping seconds
Isogone display
Dead Beat Second
4 days power reserve, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel
Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimized for temperature differences and air penetration
Balance-spring with flat terminal curve
Silicon escape wheel

Bracelet
Extra-supple alligator, leather lining

De Bethune DW5 Empreinte

The new DW5 Empreinte, a one-of-a-kind creation belonging to the Maestri’art collection, stems from collaboration between Denis Flageollet, founder and master-watchmaker of De Bethune and Clara Martin, designer and winner of the first De Bethune/ECAL prize in 2019.

The challenge was to find a new way of developing the colour black which becomes matter. The black colour has been frequently used by Denis Flageollet for many De Bethune models and is an omnipresent theme in Clara Martin’s work. Empreinte thus marks the culmination of a lengthy process of research, experimentation and sharing know-how between the two designers.

The pictural research Empreinte (imprint)

As a designer Clara Martin is developing an investigation into black and the way in which light is drawn. She is expanding this research through graphic experiments, textures and shapes that she classifies by creating a taxonomy. This method of classification allows her to combine her eclectic treatments of black in order to create objects that “sum up” her research.

De Bethune DW5 Empreinte watch

Her objective with these objects is to change the current perception and connotations of the colour black, which she no longer treats as such, but as a material, regarding it as “material-colour”. She strives to prove that this colour is much more powerful and sensitive than we think. It is both incredibly demanding and a source of freedom and infinite projection.

After a long period of research and constant dialogue with the De Bethune workshops, solutions were implemented to soften the material and redesign the Dream Watch 5, while retaining its identity.

The Empreinte (stamp) of technical innovation

With the DW5 Empreinte, De Bethune examines the notion of time through a poetic object that defies any prejudices regarding black and metal. To divert their potentially pejorative symbolism, an unexpected watch was created, vulnerable through its delicacy and evoking a meditative state.

De Bethune DW5 Empreinte

Denis Flageollet, with his experience of blackened metal and his work on the bluing of titanium, took up the technical challenge imposed by the graphic choice of linking for the first time the very different processes of oxidation of titanium in order to achieve textured, mottled blue and black patterns.

The Empreinte (impression) left on the material

Engraver Michèle Rothen exercises her craft with peerless meticulous care. In this latest Dream Watch, she has surpassed herself in expressing her skills through the quality of structures serving to create an almost volume-like expression of pictural research.

De Bethune DW5 Empreinte

This involved infinitely accurate craftsmanship, coupled with acknowledged top-flight artistic talent. Working with this material was a particularly arduous task on this model given the considerable complexity of engraving titanium (a metal even tougher than steel). The concentration of so many different tracings is a feat in itself.

Playing with these superimpositions represents an additional challenge. It is all about making titanium – a material of unequalled strength and coldness – tender and sensitive. About subtly modifying each surface state, each micro-detail, each depth effect, in such a way as to “enhance” the graphic research. As if redrawing the model one last time.

De Bethune DW5 Empreinte watch caseback

The caseback features a more restrained approach focused on drawing out and accentuating the structural lines of the watch’s volume.

The legendary Empreinte (mark) made by Pierre Soulages

Pierre Soulages is a great French master painter who has dedicated his life to obstinately working on black and on light. At over 101 years of age, the French artist continues his research in his studio in the south of France. He was the first artist in the world to modulate and play with volumes, shades and shimmering colours in order to redirect light according to a unique rhythm and movement in each of his works.

According to Pierre Soulages, “Black is the most vehement way to bring light into being”, as he proves with his “outrenoir” (beyond black) creations, a series of purely black paintings that captivate observers by the power and fragility of these works sometimes measuring several metres high.

When Clara Martin came face to face with one of these “outrenoir” masterpieces, she wondered whether it was possible to convey this impression not through a large-scale bas-relief work of art but instead through functional objects. This is where she began her work of exploring the drawing of light through black.

De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius

De Bethune presents DB25GMT Starry Varius, a slim and elegant traveller’s watch that combines traditional expertise with cutting-edge technology.

The new DB25GMT Starry Varius watch incorporates all the inherent codes of the DB25 Starry Varius collection, namely a polished grade 5 titanium case with a 42 mm diameter, a starry sky accompanied by its Milky Way, perfectly integrated open-worked lugs, and a screw-down sapphire caseback providing a glimpse of the movement.

De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius

Starting from the centre, the dial indicates the date on the first disc with the help of its jumping date hand, which can be adjusted via a corrector at 6 o’clock. The hours of the first 24-hour time zone (home or reference time) are marked by the microsphere in a mysterious manner, as it appears to be floating weightless in its corridor.

This function can be set in both directions (clockwise/counter-clockwise) via the crown. Local time, i.e. the second time zone, is indicated by the blued hands whose curvature follows the relief of the dial. The minutes hand naturally remains coordinated with the reference time, while the hours hand indicates the local time thanks to the second time zone. Local time can also be set by the crown, in both directions.

De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius

Despite its complex construction, the mechanical GMT movement is very simple to use, with concentrically arranged functions. First of all, the owner uses the crown to set his reference time, known as home time, which is indicated by the microsphere on the 24-hour dial.

Representing De Bethune’s technical signature since its development of the three dimensional moon-phase display, this microsphere indicates day and night thanks to its two halves: one blue and the other pink. It gradually turns at 6am and 6pm, thereby imitating sunrise and sunset. Secondly, the wearer sets his second time zone by means of the hours hand which is controlled via the crown pulled out to the second position.

De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius

In the centre of the curved dial, you can view a poetic vision of the sky by day and by night. A polished pink gold sun in the centre of a microlight shines over half the disc, while the celestial vault is delicately outlined on the blued polished titanium section. The vision provided is of a miniature night sky, dotted with a multitude of small white gold pins delicately and individually driven into a blued titanium dial. The Milky Way is then hand-crafted using micro laser strokes and 24-carat gold leaf.

De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius

Visible through the sapphire caseback, the reverse side of the movement reveals the latest titanium balance with white gold inlays. This organ has the ability to neutralise the effects of temperature variations thanks to its interaction with the balance spring featuring the “De Bethune” flat terminal curve. Its aerodynamics has also been worked on so as to ensure minimal air resistance. The escape-wheel is made of silicon both for the lightness of the material and to increase the power of the calibre.

The regulator is held in place by a triple pare-chute system which combines a titanium bridge integrating two jewels held in place by a leaf-spring system pressing on the jewels. The two barrels, which are partially visible, have a five-day power reserve thanks to a self-regulating energy mechanism.

This timepiece is equipped with the latest hand-wound Calibre DB2507. This is the 29th movement from De Bethune, which once again demonstrates bold technical mastery and expertise by fitting a GMT movement into a Starry Varius case and reproducing a miniature starry sky. The complication and its display have been entirely redesigned with a view to optimising legibility and operating convenience, thereby ideally meeting travellers’ expectations.

De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk Limited Edition (with Green Dial)

De Bethune presents a green dial version of its DB27 Titan Hawk. Available in a limited edition of 10 numbered pieces, this new edition features a 43 mm case in grade 5 titanium and a green microlight dial with sandblasted steel minute hands with hand-polished steel tips.

De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk Limited Edition (with Green Dial)

Revived in 2018 with the new AUTOV2 self-winding movement, the DB27 Titan Hawk draws its inspiration from the design and technology of its predecessors while adding an innovative touch.

At Basel-world 2018, the brand unveiled DB27 Titan Hawk in two dial versions: silver-toned or blue. In 2021, De Bethune welcomes a green dial version.

De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk Limited Edition (with Green Dial)

The new DB27 Titan Hawk with green dial is equipped with the latest AUTOV2 caliber, hour, minute, second, which features a single barrel providing 60 hours of power reserve. The last titanium balance with white gold inserts remains visible on the back of the watch. Developed in-house, the movement is equipped with an optimized oscillating weight made of titanium and tungsten alloy.

De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk Limited Edition (with Green Dial)

Each detail is rethought and reworked to find the elegance and readability of an object above all functional. Juxtaposing Roman numerals and Arabic numerals, the reading of the time is given around rings located at the periphery of the dial. The time display on the green dial is punctuated by sandblasted steel hands with hand-polished white tips.

The new DB27 Titan Hawk timepiece is accompanied by a khaki green canvas strap. The watch boasts all the De Bethune codes: the patented mobile lugs, the crown at 12 o’clock, a microlight decoration on the middle and the green microlight dial.

Technical details

Model: DB27 TITAN HAWK
Reference: DB27TIS4V2ww

Functions
Hours, Minutes, seconds

Movement
AUTOV2
Type: Mechanical self-winding movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time (2 positions)
Number of parts: 217
Jewelling: 29 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 60 hours
Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, De Bethune Patent (2004) improved settings qualities
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve, De Bethune Patent (2006)
Steel escape wheel
Optimized oscillating weight in titanium and alloy of tungsten
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration

Display
Hours and minutes hands in sandblasted steel with white hand
Polished steel ends Seconds hand in hand-polished steel

Dial
Green microlight
Silver-toned chapter ring with Roman numerals
Silver-toned minutes circle with Arabic numerals placed around the rim of the dial

Case
Case material: Polished grade 5 titanium, with middle microlight
Case diameter: 43 mm
Case thickness: 9 mm
Lugs: Short floating lugs in brushed grade 5 titanium, De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (hardness of 1800 Vickers) with double antireflective coating
Case back: Open in brushed grade 5 titanium
Sapphire crystal (hardness of 1800 Vickers) with double antireflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Canvas
Buckle: Pin buckle in grade 5 titanium

Edition
Limited edition of 10 numbered pieces

De Bethune DB28XP Meteorite Limited Edition

De Bethune presents a new version of its iconic “DB28XP” watch. Limited to ten numbered pieces, this timepiece has a black zirconium case and a meteorite dial featuring distinctive geometric shapes.

Believed to have struck planet Earth more than one million years BCE, somewhere between Finland and Sweden on the banks of the Muniono River, Muonionalusta Meteorite is probably the world’s oldest known meteorite to date. The first fragment was discovered in Sweden, in 1906. Composed mainly of iron and nickel, it is distinguished by the perfectly geometrical lines of its 60° angle cross-hatched “Widmanstätten” pattern.

De Bethune DB28XP Meteorite Limited Edition

The dial of the DB28XP Meteorite is adorned with this ancestral stone. A metal alloy that endows the dial with a distinctive texture, along with geometrical patterns aligned in a precise way that makes each timepiece special and unique.

De Bethune DB28XP Meteorite Limited Edition

De Bethune’s mastery of the thermal oxidation of metals has once again enabled it to raise the level of complexity by creating a starry sky accompanied by its Milky Way on a previously blued meteorite dial. This azure shade results from the heat released by the chemical reactions of the heated meteorite.

Dotted across this blue dial surface is a multitude of small white gold pins, delicately driven in between the different shapes and thicknesses of the octahedral geometrical structures. Like tiny suspended marbles, these glittering flashes of light endow the celestial vault with its aura of timeless depth. In addition to bringing a unique fragment of space to the wrist, each sky is different: the customer can choose a given constellation, according to a precise sky map, at a specific date, time and place.

De Bethune DB28XP Meteorite Limited Edition

Alongside its classically inspired round, ultra-thin crown at 12 o’clock and its hunter-type back typical of pocket watches, the DB28XP Meteorite’s ultra-light, polished black zirconium case with patented floating lugs nevertheless asserts the watch’s modern and futuristic character.

The DB28XP Meteorite features the distinctive graphic codes of the Manufacture, with a zirconium hour circle, minutes ring bearing Arabic numerals and the discreet De Bethune signature at 12 o’clock, complemented by pink gold hands identical to those on the DB28XP Starry Sky dial. The design of the Microlight engraving and the slenderness of the case reflect De Bethune’s contemporary expression of watchmaking art.

De Bethune DB28XP Meteorite Limited Edition

Stemming from De Bethune’s research into materials and new processes, the use of zirconium for the case represents a natural and sustainable alternative for achieving a black colour. The hardness of the metal and its stable oxidation, which does not deteriorate at room temperatures, are key assets in guaranteeing the resistance and durability of a watch exterior.

The hand-wound movement is equipped with the De Bethune balance, visible through the 6 o’clock dial aperture. It represents the outcome of a consistent physical and mathematical approach to improving its operation undertaken by De Bethune. It is equipped with the latest technical advances, including an adjusted diameter, the use of titanium, as well as small white gold weights placed around the rim and endowing it with remarkable inertia, reliability and regulating properties.

De Bethune DB28XP Meteorite Limited Edition

De Bethune has equipped this model with its very own balance spring. Its centre of gravity is maintained in the very centre by means of a flat curve affixed to the outside of the balance spring. Differences in the thickness of the blade further enhance the almost perfect precision of its concentric development. The numerous advantages include reduced thickness, improved adjustment of the concentricity quality, finer adjustment of the index (regulator) and no more need for its pins, while the shape of the curve even acts as a shock absorber in case of impacts.

Technical details

Model Name: DB28XP Meteorite
Reference: DB28XPZM

Function
Hours, Minutes

Movement
DB2115v7
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Technical features of calibre DB2115v7
Number of parts: 175
Jewelling: 27 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel, De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Titanium balance with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
De Bethune balance-spring with flat terminal curve De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour
Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration

Dial
Titanium dial with “microlight” decoration – De Bethune Innovation (2007)
Anthracite hours ring with transferred Arabic numerals in pink
Transferred circular satin-brushed titanium minutes ring
Starry sky with white gold stars
Dial featuring an opening revealing the balance, surrounded by a chamfered blue polished steel rim
Polished pink gold hands

Case
Case material: Mat anthracite zirconium with “microlight” case middle
Case diameter: 43 mm
Case thickness: 7.2 mm
Lugs: Mat anthracite zirconium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: Sapphire (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Caseback: Solid, in mat anthracite zirconium; Engraved ring in blued circular satin-finish titanium; Mat anthracite zirconium plate with “microlight” decoration and De Bethune logo
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining
Buckle: Mat anthracite zirconium buckle and pin

De Bethune DB Kind of Two Tourbillon

De Bethune presents the DB Kind of Two Tourbillon, a high complication watch endowed with two faces.

The DB Kind of Two Tourbillon is perfectly reversible and can be worn on either side according to the mood of the moment. This model houses a highly sophisticated mechanism based on a complex system of gears and pinions arranged on the front or back of the watch, and which enables the hands to turn in the right direction, regardless of the dial chosen.

De Bethune DB Kind of Two Tourbillon

The front side of the DB Kind of Two Tourbillon displays a dial featuring a sleek, contemporary design, with central hours and minutes hands as well as a tourbillon at 6 o’clock, complete with a 30-second indication.

De Bethune DB Kind of Two Tourbillon

Extensive work has been done on integrating polished, curved shapes, matt or glossy components, different thicknesses and levels, thereby creating a sensation of ample space and optimal volume, given the minimum height available for a tourbillon watch. A new type of deltoid-shaped bridge – this time perfectly symmetrical – is positioned in the centre, like an isosceles triangle that contributes to the overall sense of harmony.

De Bethune DB Kind of Two TourbillonThe other side reveals a dial based on more traditional aesthetic inspiration, with a finely hand-guilloché central part surrounded by the numerals already featured on the dials of De Bethune models such as the DB8 and DB10. The tourbillon with its seconds has vanished, and on this face the hours, minutes and more surprisingly the seconds hands are all centrally positioned.

Every detail has been taken into consideration. Easy to use, yet highly complex, the system of floating lugs lends itself particularly well to the “pivoting” of the case.

Redesigned for the occasion, these elements have been equipped on each side with an ingenious little rotating mechanism made up of 28 components. For reliability purposes, they are manufactured in stainless materials such as surgical steel or titanium, thus enabling them to withstand the external aggressions of water, humidity, temperature variations and continuous contact with the skin.
Thanks to a cam, a small “notch” allows the watch case to be instinctively and perfectly positioned in line with the floating lugs. The round case rotates on its central axis and can be positioned, front or back, in a delightfully easy, smooth and entirely natural way.

Inherently suited to a swivel watch, the DB29’s case middle is perfectly symmetrical shape offers a beautiful balance with the floating lugs and its elegant crown totally integrated at 12 o’clock (or 6 o’clock depending on the side chosen).

All in all, with its elegant design, the combination of contemporary mechanics with a more traditional face, as well as the meticulous care devoted to details, legibility and comfort, the DB Kind of Two Tourbillon perfectly illustrates one of the great principles of the Manufacture De Bethune: reinterpreting grand traditions with a contemporary vision of the horological object, thereby opening up a new field of expression that is refined and sophisticated while preserving user-friendliness and simple read-off.

De Bethune DB28GS “Yellow Submarine”

The independent Geneva watch maker De Bethune presents DB28GS “Yellow Submarine”, a new diving watch in a specially developed titanium that reflects the colors of fire.

In 2019, De Bethune developed a warm colored titanium with natural shades of amber and flame blonde. De Bethune has chosen this unique material to create bezel, caseback, lugs, dial, hands and buckle of the new DB28GS “Yellow Submarine” watch. The case middle is made from Black zirconium.

De Bethune DB28GS “Yellow Submarine”

Available in a limited edition of 25 pieces, the DB28GS “Yellow Submarine” was designed and developed to be a resolutely sporty watch. Based on the observation that a sports watch must be perfectly readable in any kind of weather and every possible situation, a very special and ingenious lighting system has been developed.

Therefore, to illuminate the watch and the movement from the inside, a light source is produced by a fully mechanical means that works on the dynamo principle. A pusher located at 6 o’clock activates a small gear train driven by the twin barrel. This gear train, by means of a miniature dynamo, provides the necessary energy for lighting the watch. A few seconds of light is more than enough to read the time, even in the middle of the night or in the abyssal depths of the ocean.

In modern diving watches, the rotating bezel serves to enable accurate calculation of immersion time, as well as the transition through various decompression stops. Generally, all the numerals relating to the minutes counter are indicated on the bezel, which tends to create a more crowded visual effect. For the DB28GS “Yellow Submarine”, these indications appear on the sapphire crystal driven by the bezel. This developed in the workshops of the Manufacture in L’Auberson enables the model to remain elegantly slender and instils a pleasing casual chic aesthetic.

De Bethune DB28GS “Yellow Submarine”

The watch houses the in-house DB2080 mechanical movement. Hand-wound, with central seconds and a five-day power reserve indicated on the dial, the movement is equipped with a high-tech in-house-made balance wheel. The presence of the titanium / white gold balance wheel and balance-spring with flat terminal curve ensures an ideal mass / inertia ratio for an optimal frequency of 28,800 vph suitable for wristwatches.

It is endowed with numerous properties – such as optimised efficiency, reliability, regulating quality, thermo-compensation, anti-magnetism – leading to concrete results, since De Bethune has already improved the efficiency of its sprung-balance-escapement ensemble by achieving a 20% increase in power reserve.

The calibre is also equipped with the triple pare chute system. De Bethune was not only the first to design a bridge symmetrical held on both sides and thus serving to maintain the balance wheel perfectly in position, but also added two shock absorbers on either end as well as that of the balance wheel itself.

De Bethune DB28GS “Yellow Submarine”

Water-resistant to 105 metres (10 ATM), the DB28GS “Yellow Submarine” is no exception to the strict rule of wearer comfort that De Bethune applies to its models in general and particularly to the DB28 collection. This exceptional comfort stems from a combination of the light feel of the titanium case, the softness of its hand-polished finish, the 12 o’clock crown position and above all the presence of the patented system of floating lugs that adapt to wrist size and movements.

The model is delivered with two straps: a canvas version and a striated natural rubber iteration with titanium folding clasp.

Technical details

Model: DB28GS “Yellow Submarine”
Reference: DB28GSV2Y

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Power reserve indication between 9 and 10 o’clock, unidirectional rotating bezel, manual dial lighting

Movement
DB2080 Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions), push button at 6 o’clock to activate the lightening
Technical features of calibre DB2080
Number of parts: 400
Jewelling: 51 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Specificities: Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Dial lighting produced by an entirely mechanical means working on the dynamo principle powered by a twin barrel and manually controlled via a pusher- De Bethune Innovation (2019)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Mirror- polished yellow grade 5 titanium motion-work bridge
Plate and barrel bridge covers in hand-smoothed yellow grade 5 titanium and adorned with “Microlight engraving” – De Bethune Innovation (2007)
Hand-snailed barrels
Hand-polished and chamfered steel parts

Display
Yellow titanium hours and minutes hand with inserts, luminescent tip
Yellow titanium sandblasted by hand minute hand, luminescent tip
Polished steel seconds hand with luminescent tip
Power-reserve indicator between 9 and 10 o’clock

Dial
Satin-brushed and yellow grade 5 titanium minutes dial with cut-out Arabic numerals
Rotating bezel crystal with metallised minutes ring

Case
Black zirconium case middle with “Microlight” decoration, yellow brushed grade 5 titanium caseback and bezel
Diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 12.8 mm
Floating lugs in yellow brushed grade 5 titanium with yellow polished grade 5 titanium inserts – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: open in yellow brushed grade 5 titanium
Water resistance: 10 ATM

Strap
Natural rubber strap + 1 canvas / leather strap
Buckle: Folding clasp + pin buckle in yellow brushed grade 5 titanium

De Bethune DW5 Cempasúchil

As a tribute to Día de Muertos (the Day of the Dead) celebration in Mexico, De Bethune has created DW5 Cempasúchil, a one-of-a-kind creation from the brand’s Maestri’art Collection.

The De Bethune DW5 Cempasúchil timepiece was co-created by Denis Flageollet (master watchmaker and founder of De Bethune) and Michèle Rothen, a talented Swiss Art engraver. This unique timepiece has drawn its artistic inspiration from the engravings of José Guadalupe Posada (1852-1913), the legendary Mexican engraver and chisel virtuoso.

De Bethune DW5 Cempasúchil

Inscribed in 2008 on the UNESCO’s Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, EL Día de los Muertos (the Day of the Dead) is the highlight of the Latin American festivities, with rivers of orange petals from the bouquets of Cempasúchil blossoms that line alleys and bathe them in the intense scent of marigolds, guiding the spirits of the deceased on their journey home.

Cempasúchil is the name of Mexican marigold (also known as Aztec marigold) flower. Traditionally, Mexicans refer marigold as La Flor de los Muertos (the flower of the dead) and since ancient times it has been used in the Día de Muertos celebrations. According to beliefs, the petals of the Cempasúchil flower (marigold) retain the warmth of the sun and embody the divine.

De Bethune DW5 Cempasúchil

The name stems from Cempohualxochitl, meaning ‘twenty flowers’ in Nahuatl, the indigenous language of the Aztecs who used it for decoration at burials. The eternal love of Xochitl, materialized by this flower, could heal diseases because it was believed they come from sadness or fear, and true love can heal all.

There have been and are many watches on the subject of skulls and the Day of the Dead, but none of them inspired by the engraving of Mexican artist José Guadalupe Posada.

Posada was an engraving genius and his work has become part of the national heritage of Mexico, especially since the centenary of his death in 2013. The engraver of calaveras (‘skulls’ in Spanish) offers images of skeletons more alive than the living. At the heart of his creations, the queens of the festival, the calaveras, are everywhere.

De Bethune DW5 Cempasúchil

Smiling skulls, hilarious skeletons coquettishly prancing about in top hats and boaters, Posada’s distinctive eye and hand capture an imagery that overflows with life. With more than 15,000 catalogued engravings, his legacy remains immense. On the exterior of the DW5 Cempasúchil watch, the 19th century artwork of Posada is interpreted with the contemporary talent of Swiss Art engraver Michèle Rothen, working in close concert with Denis Flageollet.

Where Posada etched his calaveras on flat zinc plates, Denis Flageollet and Michèle Rothen miniaturize them to the extreme, only to give them more relief and volume. On the outside of the timepiece, the watchmaker recreates a phantasmagorical world inspired by the engravings by Posada. Among these engravings, standing above the time display window is La Calavera Catrina (Catrina Ljazmun a Calavera Garbancera), the famous Calavera artwork of Posada and an icon of the Mexican Día de Muertos.

Reaching beyond the challenge of a contemporary reinterpretation of the Mexican artist’s engravings, Denis Flageollet and Michèle Rothen introduce the additional technical challenges of not only working with a titanium case, but also of having it flame-blued, hand-engraved, and decorated for the first time with delicate gold inserts, as well as engraved to magnify the Cempasúchil blossoms. And to take the level of difficulty a few notches higher still, several different types of 18K gold alloy are used.

White gold, yellow gold, rose gold, green gold (an 18K gold combined with a smidgeon of silver), and a new ‘marbled’ gold (a blend of white gold, rose gold and yellow gold): Denis Flageollet’s unrivalled knowhow is given free rein at De Bethune’s own foundry in Sainte Croix, enabling him to create new shades of the precious metal to underline the piece’s floral elements. Thanks to a new technique developed in his workshop, the metals seem to naturally harmonize and join together. The multiple levels and shades of the decoration offer a magnificent and subtle visual depth accentuated by the engraved parts.

You will also notice a small two-colored sphere that indicates the moon phases. Composed of two hemispheres, joined and polished, one of blued steel and the other of palladium, the sphere guides the eye to the minimalist digital hours and minutes display, visible through a hand-cut crystal cabochon whose making requires rare mastery.

Between engraving and micro-sculpture, Michèle Rothen’s work surpasses all standards. Infinite and infinitesimal precision coupled with a Swiss artistic talent that is recognized as among the best. Engraving was particularly difficult on this piece because titanium already presents a challenge in itself. Combining it with gold was an insane challenge.

De Bethune DW5 Cempasúchil

Engraving them together added yet another degree of difficulty. First, because of the challenge of getting two diametrically opposed metals to coexist: strong and stiff titanium with soft and malleable gold. Second, because the temperatures at which the two metals can be worked are very different.

To make this timepiece, Denis Flageollet used titanium that he patiently machined, preparing it for the gold inserts, until he obtained the perfect fit for the piece, working it not only before the engraving stage, but also again afterwards, then in the fire to tint it, then on the workbench to polish it by hand, revisiting the state of the metal surfaces at each stage, each microscopic detail, each relief, even sparing some parts to ‘lift’ the design as a means of perfecting the whole.

De Bethune DW5 Cempasúchil

Also made of titanium and 18K gold, the back of the watch is adorned with an immense skull, ‘another true calavera’ decorated with multiple flowers, with two large eye sockets, through one of which the movement’s balance-spring can be admired.

Technical details

Model: Maestri’Art DW5 Cempasúchil
Reference: DW5

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Spherical moon-phase indication

Movement
Calibre DB2144V2
Mechanical hand-wound movement
Number of parts: 355
Jewelling: 32 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Silicon annular balance encircled by a white gold – De Bethune Patent (2010)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Spherical moon-phase indication with an accuracy of one lunar day every 1112 years – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Frequency: 28’800 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration
Adjustment: Spherical moon-phase adjustment and setting the time by means of the crown, adorned by 1 carat rubies (3 positions)

Display
Jumping-hour aperture at 3 o’clock in blued titanium
Analogue minutes indicator on a dragging rotating disc
Spherical moon-phase indication in palladium and flamed blued steel with an accuracy of one lunar day every 1112 years at 6 o’clock – De Bethune Patent (2004)

Dial
Frame of the jumping-hour aperture in blued grade 5 titanium

Case
Delta shaped case in colored titanium with gold 18K inserts hand-engraved
Diameter: Length 58 mm – width 47 mm
Case thickness: 16 mm
Crystal: Curved hard-mineral crystal cut by hand
Case back: Closed and screwed down case back in colored titanium with gold inserts with aperture on balance wheel
Hard-mineral crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double antireflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Karung leather bracelet, hand sewn with pin buckle
Buckle: Pin in colored titanium, hand engraved and buckle in rose gold

De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon

During the Geneva Watch Days event in August 2020, Swiss luxury watch brand De Bethune unveiled the iconic DB28 Steel Wheels watch for the first time equipped with a tourbillon. The movement’s delta bridge and two barrel covers are made of sapphire crystal.

A limited edition of only 10 pieces, the DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon celebrates the 10th anniversary of the DB28 collection. It pays tribute to the iconic watch family by ably perpetuating the heritage of its predecessors: perfect balance, contemporary and bold aesthetics at the service of exceptional mechanics.

When the first DB28 was launched in 2010, De Bethune’s idea was to present a timepiece with an identity of its own and a resolutely futuristic vision of the art of watchmaking. The design naturally follows through in the spirit of the Manufacture’s creations. The distinctive shape of the case and the crown at 12 o’clock, inspired by pocket watches, are characteristic features of the contemporary aestheticism specific to De Bethune.

It is on this timepiece that the patent for De Bethune’s unique, innovative floating lugs, designed to significantly improve comfort, acquired its full meaning. Since then, the DB28 – named Best Watch of the Year and awarded the Aiguille d’Or prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2011 – has never ceased to express past, present and future watchmaking culture through different variants.

Following through on a series of contemporary iterations, from Skybridge to the Kind-of-Blue, by way of the more recent DB28XP, DB28XP Starry Sky and DB28XP Tourbillon, De Bethune has time and again found a new way to reveal new facets of this design, already instantly recognizable by its sleek and taut lines.

The DB28 Steel Wheels was introduced in 2018, under the sign of transparency and light, with the idea of opening the dial to reveal the contemporary architecture of its movement.

Recognizable by its delta shaped bridge – a De Bethune hallmark – and its moon at 6 o’clock, the DB28 Steel Wheels fascinates with a multitude of different forms – hemispherical, concave, and spherical – for an architecturally dynamic result. It is all about levels of perception, layers and reliefs, light playing with shadows and reflections. Cut from titanium, light on the wrist, this watch reveals a contemporary, architectural fusion of space, time and light.

The DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon

Most often used in the production of watch cases, sapphire crystal takes on a new role for De Bethune. Here, it finds a new vocation in the form of the signature delta-shaped bridge and the cover for each of the two barrels. Blue for the bridge, clear for the barrel covers, these elements are integrated into the movement, letting light in to play and offer new reflections – and allow the eyes to literally plunge into the mechanism.

De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon

The transparency of these sapphire crystal components not only magnifies the movement, but also offers a different kind of lighting, new brilliance and shimmering, that highlights the taut lines, the architecture and the different levels of the caliber for an intriguing sense of depth.

Each sapphire crystal component is encircled in polished titanium. Always in the spirit of taking things further, as far as possible, Denis Flageollet designed the sapphire glass components, cutting them by laser with utmost precision so they fit in perfectly with the forms, rises, angles, the teeth – the bridge as well as the barrel covers – all perfectly adjusted like lace of sapphire crystal.

To this is added a ring of polished titanium to circle each barrel cover. The sight of the delta bridge and two barrel covers in sapphire crystal is something never seen before, along with the cut of the glass, underscored on its periphery by the polished metallic grey line, accentuating a resolutely contemporary aesthetic.

De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon

The thicknesses of the sapphire crystal vary according to the components. The sapphire of the bridge is 1 mm thick to ensure functional rigidity, whilst the sapphire of the barrel covers is 0.3 mm thick. These glass components in no way compromise robustness or, of course, reliability when worn – solid, perfect resistant to small everyday shocks is assured.

De Bethune has always crafted its watch hands in-house, by hand, in the workshop in l’Auberson. The DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon thus comes with a particularly finely worked hour hand. It consists of 4 distinct elements: the barrel made of steel for technical reasons, a titanium insert, an inner component of matt titanium, and a polished titanium outer component. Each component is worked differently. The result is unique. At the back, the power reserve indication can be read with a hand-blued steel hand, also made, as is the custom, by hand in De Bethune’s workshop.

In the vast array of complications and functions, of horological disciplines in which De Bethune has become a virtuoso, the tourbillon often played a leading role. The DB28 Steel Wheels boasts a tourbillon featuring an extraordinarily lightweight cage (0.18 grams, the lightest ever created). Rotating on itself every thirty seconds, it comprises a total of 63 components (the lightest of which weighs less than 0.0001 grams!).

Nowadays, a wristwatch is subjected to more action than may be safely and sufficiently compensated for. Changes in position are often abrupt and sometimes chaotic. Indeed, the kinetic forces inflicted on a mechanical watchmaking movement under normal wear conditions might seem quite staggering. Just as Breguet had invented the tourbillon to meet the constraints of marine watches, De Bethune designed a tourbillon for the new dynamics of wristwatches.

To compensate for the sheer force of wrist movements, the tourbillon cage must be as light as possible and operate at maximum frequency and speed of rotation, all with weight and inertia at absolute minimums.

The tourbillon is a titanium and silicon creation that beats at a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour. It features an extraordinarily lightweight cage (0.18 g, the lightest ever) that rotates on itself every thirty seconds and comprises 63 components (the lightest of which weighs less than 0.0001 g). These special qualities let the De Bethune’s tourbillon to simply fulfill its function more ably for today’s watches. The futuristic shape of the Tourbillon Bridge holds the tourbillon perfectly in position, symmetrically, from both sides.

Among the various hand-made decorations specific to De Bethune’s movements, the mirror-polishing of the titanium pieces offers an astonishing play with light. The surfaces of the components are finished to perfectly reflect ambient light. The metal surface is patiently polished until it becomes a true mirror.

And unparalleled comfort thanks to its floating lugs, kept to an intermediate size on this watch.

De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon

The DB28 Steel Wheelss Sapphire Tourbillon features a polished grade 5 titanium case, mounted on the new floating lugs unveiled this year. Entirely redesigned, harmonized and adapted to the spirit of the watch, they are tipped by the famous ‘bullets,’ more prominent here, reminiscent of the spirit of the first De Bethune collections.

The alligator strap with a titanium buckle contributes to the practicality and everyday wearability of this very special timepiece.

Technical details

Model: DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon
Reference: DB28SWTTIS1

Functions
Hours, Minutes, 30’’ indicator via the ultra-light De Bethune tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock, Power reserve situated on the back

Movement
DB2019V5
Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Number of parts: 272
Jewelling: 39 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)

Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’ tourbillon in titanium – De Bethune Innovation (2008)
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Motion works bridge and concave cover plate in grade 5 titanium, mirror-polished
Curved, open worked and beveled barrel bridge with glass blued sapphire
Open worked and hand sailed barrels with glass blued sapphire and blued titanium beveled rings
Rhodium power reserve indicator background decorated with “De
Bethune” circular graining
Blued and engraved ring
Steel parts beveled and polished by hand

Display
Display: Minutes and hours hand in hand-polished sand-blasted blued titanium
Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’ tourbillon in titanium – De Bethune Innovation (2008)

Dial
Circular-grained titanium hours ring
Spherical polished titanium hour-markers set and 30” dial on a blued polished titanium circle

Case
Material: Polished grade 5 titanium
Diameter: 43 mm
Thickness: 9.80 mm
Lugs: Polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Screwed case back in grade 5 polished titanium that opens on a linear power reserve indicator in blued steel Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in polished grade 5 titanium

De Bethune: DB28XP, DB28XP Starry Sky and DB28XP Tourbillon

De Bethune celebrates the 10th Anniversary of the brand’s iconic DB28 watch by unveiling a set of three watches in 2020. All three timepieces, all true to the DNA of the DB28, are interpretations of the same theme, independent of each other yet linked by their history, the work that went into them, the brand cues they reflect.

When the first DB28 was launched in 2010, De Bethune’s idea was to present a timepiece with an identity all its own and a resolutely futuristic vision of the art of watchmaking. The design of the timepiece embodies the code of the Maison. The distinctive case shape, the crown at 12 o’clock inspired by pocket watches. It is on this timepiece that De Bethune’s unique and innovative – and patented – floating lugs, designed also to significantly improve comfort, demonstrated their self-evident purpose. Since then, the DB28 has continued to express the past, present and future of watchmaking culture through its various iterations.

De Bethune DB28XP

With this most absolute version, De Bethune explores the universe of ultra-thin watches. Throughout the quest of designing an ultra-thin watch, De Bethune was driven as much by the technical challenge as the aesthetic challenge, by the complexity of ‘finesse’.

Monochromatic by design, the DB28XP is first and foremost a reference to the very first
DB28. It’s about all the levels at which one experiences a timepiece, its layers, reliefs, the light playing with shadows and reflections. This titanium watch reveals an architectural fusion of space, time and light that lingers long after the first glance.

De Bethune DB28XP

The dial is entirely made of Microlight, which offers a modern take on traditional guilloche technique. On this generous flat surface, the new technique takes on its full meaning and reinforces the structure. By playing with light and shadow, it adds depth and offers a more architectural and dynamic result. The watch as whole becomes more contemporary.

The delta-shaped main plate – a De Bethune hallmark – is finished to perfectly reflect ambient light. A tone-on-tone pattern surrounds the central part of the elliptical dial, subtly revealing the movement’s wheels. Finally, as a discreet De Bethune signature, the blued titanium inserts in the hands at the centre.

De Bethune DB28XP

The hand-wound movement features De Bethune’s balance wheel, visible through the dial thanks to an opening at 6 o’clock. Its diameter is not too large, either. Made of titanium, it is equipped with small white gold weights placed on the outside to give remarkable qualities of inertia, reliability and regulating ability.

The extremely fine balance spring maintains its true centre of gravity with a flat terminal curve affixed to the outside of the balance-spring. Differences in the thickness of the blade add to the almost perfect precision of its concentric development. Among the many advantages: lower height, better adjustment of concentricity, finer adjustment of the racquet, no need for pins. The curve’s shape even acts as a shock absorber in case of impact. Finally, the material’s internal structure remains intact since it has been neither stressed nor bent. It is through these numerous tried and tested developments, which are constantly revisited and further improved, that De Bethune has succeeded in increasing the power reserve by 20 percent, bringing it to a total of 6 days.

Equally visible – and geometrically positioned in relation to the calibre’s plate – is the exclusive triple shock absorption system designed to protect the whole assembly. Not only was De Bethune the first to design a bridge held on both sides, symmetrically, to ensure the balance is kept perfectly in position. The Maison also added two shock absorbers at each end to supplement the shock absorber of the pendulum itself. Hence the name “triple pare-chute” or triple shock absorber, which effectively absorbs and dampens violent shocks with springs instead of screws mounted on perfectly polished axes.

De Bethune DB28XP

Another challenge was to preserve the functionality and wear comfort of De Bethune’s famous floating lugs. The case band has been completely redesigned, with a more pronounced curvature, flowing with the lines of the wrist and lugs – whose bullets incidentally have also entirely redesigned. The plate’s Microlight finish is echoed along the sides of the case band, rendered all the more meticulously in the absence of simple geometric forms.

Technical details

Model: DB28XP
Reference: DB28XPTIS1

Function
Hours, Minutes

Movement
DB2115v6
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Number of parts: 194
Jewelling: 29 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Titanium balance with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour
Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration

Dial
Polished titanium hours ring with polished titanium spherical hour-markers
Circular satin-brushed titanium minutes ring
Polished titanium barrel bridge and triangular central bridge guards with straight-grained chamfered contours
Titanium dial base with “microlight” decoration centred on the balance – De Bethune Innovation (2007)
Polished titanium hands with polished blued titanium inserts

Case
Case material: Polished grade 5 titanium with “microlight” case middle
Case diameter: 43 mm
Case thickness: 7.2 mm
Lugs: Polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: Sapphire (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double antireflective coating
Caseback: Solid, in polished grade 5 titanium
Engraved ring in blued circular satin-finish titanium
Titanium plate with “microlight” decoration and De Bethune logo
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining
Buckle: Grade 5 titanium buckle and pin

De Bethune DB28XP Starry Sky

Classic by inspiration with its round, ultra-thin shape, its crown at 12 o’clock and a hunter case back borrowed from pocket watches, the DB28 Starry Sky comes in an ultra-lightweight, mirror-polished titanium case fitted with redesigned floating lugs.

Inspired by DB28 Skybridge, which featured a curved sky, De Bethune raises the stakes of complexity even further by creating a blue Microlight firmament. The dial’s surface of peaks and valleys refracts light in yet more dimensions, offering a unique spectacle. Free and unconstrained, the mastery of blued titanium translates into a multitude of microgrooves that create a mesmerising optical effect.

De Bethune DB28XP Starry Sky

Into the deep blue expanse a multitude of small white gold pins driven through one by one with great care and accuracy recreating the actual magic of the stars on an actual night. Glittering sparkles give the night-time heavens an endless depth. A magical experience, made all the more special by the fact that the firmament depicted is not random. The customer selects the date and hour and location, and De Bethune draws the sky map of on the dial.

The DB28XP Starry Sky features the hour circle in silver, the minutes in Arabic numerals, the discreet De Bethune signature at 12 o’clock, and rose gold hands designed especially for this edition.

Technical details

Model: DB28XP Starry Sky
Reference: DB28XPTIS3V2

Function
Hours, Minutes

Movement
DB2115v7
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Number of parts: 165
Jewelling: 27 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel, De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Titanium balance with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour
Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration

Dial
Silver-toned hours ring with transferred Arabic numerals
Transferred circular satin-brushed titanium minutes ring
Titanium dial with “microlight” decoration – De Bethune Innovation (2007)
Starry sky with white gold stars
Dial featuring an opening revealing the balance, surrounded by a chamfered polished steel rim
Polished pink gold hands

Case
Case material: Polished grade 5 titanium with “microlight” case middle
Case diameter: 43 mm
Case thickness: 7.2 mm
Lugs: Polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: Sapphire (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double antireflective coating
Caseback: Solid, in polished grade 5 titanium
Engraved ring in blued circular satin-finish titanium
Titanium plate with “microlight” decoration and De Bethune logo
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining
Buckle: Grade 5 titanium buckle and pin

De Bethune DB28XP Tourbillon

With this third interpretation of the DB28 theme, De Bethune rethinks the watchmaking architecture at its core and explores new codes. DB28XP Tourbillon is directly inspired by the famous dial of the DB28 Digitale.

De Bethune DB28XP Tourbillon

Offering hour, minute and seconds indications in 30”, DB28XP Tourbillon features an elegant and minimalist white dial with silver reflections rendered in a hand-engraved “barley grain” guilloche pattern, highlighted by a blued hour circle.

De Bethune DB28XP Tourbillon

The tourbillon positioned at 6 o’clock is a titanium creation that beats at a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour. It features an extraordinarily lightweight cage (0.18 gr., the lightest ever) that rotates on itself every thirty seconds and comprises 63 components (the lightest of which weighs less than 0.0001 g).

On the case back, as a nod to the Aiguille d’Or – the highest distinction of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève – awarded to the first DB28: The position of the planets is that in the evening sky over Geneva when the prestigious prize was presented on November 19th, 2011.

Technical details

Model: DB28XP Tourbillon
Reference: DB28XPTTIS1

Functions
Hours, Minutes, 30’’ indicator via the ultra-light De Bethune tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock

Movement
DB2009v4
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Number of parts: 216
Jewelling: 33 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel, De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Titanium balance with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’ tourbillon in titanium – De Bethune Innovation (2008)
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration

Dial
Blued-polished titanium hours ring with polished hour markers. Circular satin-brushed titanium minutes ring
Silver-toned hand-guilloché barley-corn motif
Dial featuring an opening revealing the tourbillon, surrounded by a chamfered blued-polished titanium rim and a titanium seconds dial
Blued polished titanium hands with polished inserts

Case
Case material: Polished grade 5 titanium with “microlight” case middle
Case diameter: 43 mm
Case thickness: 8.1 mm
Lugs: Polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: Sapphire (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double antireflective coating
Caseback: Solid, in polished grade 5 titanium with the position of the planets on November 19th 2011(Aiguille d’Or – GPHG)
Engraved ring in blued circular satin-finish titanium
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining
Buckle: Grade 5 titanium buckle and pin

De Bethune x @byJorgHysek Dream Watch 6 Table Clock

De Bethune presents the Dream Watch 6, a clock designed in close collaboration with the Swiss artist Jörg Hysek.

Denis Flageollet, who has a passion for timekeeping objects and has worked on many of them, conceives of and creates De Bethune clocks that combine the traditions established by of 18th century Master Watchmakers with contemporary art mechanics.

De Bethune x @byJorgHysek Dream Watch 6 Table Clock

Faithful to the spirit that drives De Bethune, each clock project originates in the juxtaposition of watchmaking history during the Enlightenment, of various techniques both for the movement and for the finishing, alongside the spirit of modernity that characterizes De Bethune’s identity.

De Bethune presented his first clock movement in 2003. It was inspired by the marine chronometers so dear to Denis Flageollet, a great sailing enthusiast, then came the mysterious Stellar Clock with its two sphynxes, and finally the famous Helicopter Clock created in 2015.

De Bethune is one of the very few manufacturers to master the know-how of clock making. Thanks to the skill of some of its watchmakers, the 180-component hand-wound mechanical movement 1318-010, adapted to the design and equipped with a constant force escapement, displays the hour, minute and moon phase functions with an accuracy of 5.7 seconds in a lunar month, or 1 day every 1225 years, which corresponds to an accuracy 457 times higher than conventional moon phases – an improvement by a factor of ten compared to the De Bethune standard.

The body of the Dream Watch 6 was created by Swiss artist Jörg Hysek while dial design and movement conception was the responsibility of De Bethune.

What Jörg Hysek conceived of and designed is a mechanical sculpture, with a creative aesthetic that gives off a force that speaks to lovers of the truly exclusive. Challenging the known and assumed, he expresses his sensibility to the mechanics of time. This clock is new, unique. The feet, for example: In addition to their almost sensual refinement and the role they play in design, the three legs have the double function of keeping it upright on a table, or to laying it down, as in a cradle so it can easily be rewound. Arming the clock and setting the time – it’s done discreetly from below, sparing the eye a glance at perhaps unwelcome “interruptions” in the clock’s lines.

The entire clock was fabricated in L’Auberson, in the Swiss Jura, in the workshops of the De Bethune Manufacture.

Technical specifications

Model: Dream Watch 6

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Moon phase with a precision with an accuracy of one lunar month: 5.7 seconds, or 1 day / 1225 years – an accuracy 457 times higher than the classical moon phases and ten times higher than the De Bethune standard

Movement
Mechanical movement, manual winding with freewheel without ratchet, caliber 1318-010
180 components
Constant force escapement
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour
Jewelling: 29 rubies
21 micro ball bearings
Power reserve: 8 days

Display
Spherical hands: mysterious, in mirror-polished titanium
Spherical moon phase indicator in sandblasted steel and mirror-polished flame-blued steel
De Bethune signature concave starry sky in blued mirror-polished titanium inlaid with white gold stars
Yellow gold rings and hour indicators on a blued titanium background

De Bethune Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia

De Bethune presents the DW5 Armilia, a unique piece from its Maestri’art collection.

To create this extraordinary timepiece, De Bethune has drawn inspiration from the graphic novel series The Obscure Cities by the Belgian designer and scenographer François Schuiten and his friend, writer Benoît Peeters.

Background of this novel series is a parallel universe in which humans are often left to their own devices – even though reality is never very far away – this imaginary world is composed of enigmas and mysteries. Through shadows and unusual reflections of our world subject to the principle of worrying strangeness, the authors of The Obscure Cities usher their readers into spectacularly extravagant settings while maintaining a distinctly human approach.

De Bethune Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia - Watch Inspired by the graphic novel series The Obscure Cities by the Belgian designer and scenographer François Schuiten and his friend, writer Benoît Peeters

Within this retro-futuristic aesthetic free of any nostalgia, the stunning architecture, imaginary cartography, and oft heavy and imposing machines together constitute the driving elements of plots where science and engineering mingle with fantasy.

It is precisely in the context of this rich and extraordinary universe that De Bethune has taken an interest in Armilia: a submerged, almost entirely underground city. It is in this remote place in the far North of the imaginary Continent that the control of Time is handled, a concept oddly mingling chronology and climate disruptions.

De Bethune observes the exchanges permitted between the real world and the world of The Obscure Cities, recognizing that time does not have the same value in this parallel world. Raising the question of perfect and imperfect time, exploring this “white zone” of the work’s nonetheless incredibly rich universe, De Bethune has imagined a time measurement object, a watch directly inspired by the depiction of Armilia and its universe.

Breaking free of scales and proportions, Denis Flageollet, De Bethune co-founder and Master Watchmaker, and passionate about The Obscure Cities, has imagined a wrist-sized sculpture, engraved as a direct reference to a drawing of the City of Armilia.

De Bethune Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia - Watch Inspired by the graphic novel series The Obscure Cities by the Belgian designer and scenographer François Schuiten and his friend, writer Benoît Peeters

Reflecting similar gestures, a dialogue was established between Schuiten’s pen & ink drawings and renowned Swiss engraver Michelle Roten, whose talents were enlisted for this particular project. The structure of the watch thus comes to life or rather creates a reflection of Armilia’s imaginary world, as if the watch were a ship setting out to explore this world. Bearing in mind the idea of achieving a depiction similar to the original drawings, it is no coincidence that De Bethune chose 18K pink gold. The warm colour of the precious metal recalls the equally warm colours characterising the drawings of the city at sunset.

With Armilia, De Bethune has created a fascinating work that it is placing like a landmark on the frontier between art and watchmaking. The watch testifies to a vision of unbridled creativity while remaining based on profound understanding and respect for the great master watchmakers of the past, whose work it transcends and magnifies.

Armilia is the result of extreme miniaturisation of its mechanism, entirely dedicated to design, of which time is only one element. A De Bethune interpretation appearing as a nod or a signature, a small two-coloured sphere indicates the moon phases. Composed of two assembled and polished blued steel and palladium half-spheres, it guides the eye towards the digital and minimalist display of the hours and minutes. All this is visible through a hand-cut cabochon-shaped tempered glass providing a chance to get a better view of this mechanism that counts off time.

Technical specifications

Model: Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia
Reference: DW5RMA

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Spherical moon-phase indication

Movement
DB2144V2
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Spherical moon-phase adjustment and setting the time by means of the crown, adorned by 1 carat sapphire (3 positions)
Number of parts: 320
Jewelling: 32 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Silicon annular balance encircled by a white gold ring – De Bethune Patent (2010)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Spherical moon-phase indication with accuracy of one lunar day every 1112 years – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Frequency: 28’800 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration

Display
Display: Jumping-hour aperture at 3 o’clock
Analogue minutes indicator on a dragging rotating disc
Spherical moon-phase indication in palladium and flamed blued steel with an accuracy of one lunar day every 1112 years at 6 o’clock – De Bethune Patent (2004)

Dial
Frame of the jumping-hour aperture in blued grade 5 titanium

Case
Case material: Delta shaped in polished rose gold 18K
Case diameter: length 58 mm – width 47 mm
Case thickness: 16 mm
Crystal: curved Hard-mineral crystal cut by hand
Case back: Closed and screwed down case back in black titanium with aperture on balance wheel; Hard-mineral crystal (1800 Vickers hardness)with double anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin in rose gold and buckle in black titanium

DE BETHUNE x URWERK for Only Watch 2019

In support of the Only Watch biennial charity auction of unique timekeepers, two great independent watchmaking “Maisons” – De Bethune and Urwerk – joined their creative energies in bringing forth a timepiece that arouses curiosity, focuses attention and touches the senses.

From the outside, a case that challenges established norms, fusing the design and function genetics of De Bethune and Urwerk with its floating lugs and the singular vibrancy of mirror polished titanium.

Under the hood and curved sapphire crystal, a mechanical universe which amazes us with the one-off URDB01 caliber jointly developed for this very special auction – the crown at 12 o’clock, spherical moon phase, and Urwerk’s signature time indication with the now-famous satellite window in an arc that evokes the sun’s curvature.

De Bethune DB21 Maxichrono Réédition

Swiss luxury watch brand De Bethune has created a re-edition of its iconic DB21 Maxichrono collection. The new model is limited to 10 pieces annual production.

The watch features a Grade 5 titanium case and houses a hand-wound mechanical movement. The watch boasts a Three-dimensional dial featuring 5 central hands layout.

Technical specifications

Name: DB21 Maxichrono Réédition
Reference: DB21RE
Limitation: Limited annual production of 10

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Mono-pusher chronograph with 24-hour, 60- minute and 60-second counters

Movement
DB2030
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: By the crown at 6 o’clock (2 positions) for winding and setting the time
Via a push-piece integrated in the crown for the chronograph function
Number of parts: 426
Jewelling: 51 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimized for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
“De Bethune Absolute Clutch” – De Bethune Patent (2014)
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Bridges mirror-polished, sandblasted and snailed by hand; Steel parts polished and chamfered by hand

Display
5 curved central hands – hand-polished steel for hours and minutes hands and flame-blued steel chronograph hours and seconds indicators
Chronograph minutes indicator in red

Dial
Three-dimensional dial constructed on different levels to maximise readability. From the centre to the periphery: silver-toned central hours counter – hours ring in titanium with blued markers – silver-toned minutes ring and minutes counter transfer-printed red numerals – silver-toned 1/10th of second graduated outer ring for seconds counter

Case
Case material: Grade 5 titanium
Case diameter: 44.4 mm
Case thickness: 12 mm
Lugs: Short or long floating lugs in blued grade 5 titanium – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Revealing the mechanism with hand-polished steel bridges
Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double antireflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Buckle in blued grade 5 titanium and pin in grade 5 titanium

De Bethune DB28GS Grand Bleu

The DB28GS Grand Bleu is De Bethune’’s first 100% sports watch. Equipped with a new caliber, this technical and elegant diver’s model boasts a water resistance to more than 100 metres; and offers excellent readability including in the darkest depths thanks to ingenious lighting inside the movement and a new photo luminescent blue, a different bezel that rotates this time with the crystal to indicate dive times; a titanium case for a light feel and a rubber strap for convenience; along with a five-day power reserve.

Just 10 years ago, De Bethune began developing timepieces with a more contemporary spirit with the first DB28. Already at that time, De Bethune’s founder and Master Watchmaker, Denis Flageollet, an outdoor sports enthusiast, felt the need to create watches adapted to an active lifestyle. In 2015, the first DB28GS was launched.

Based on the observation that a sports watch must be perfectly readable in any kind of weather and every possible situation, a special lighting system has been developed. To illuminate the watch and the movement from the inside, the slightly bluish white light source is produced by a fully mechanical means that works on the dynamo principle.

The result is as simple as the lighting of a bicycle, fully mechanical with no electronics and no battery. A pusher at 6 o’clock activates a small gear train driven by the twin barrel. This gear train, by means of a miniature dynamo, provides the necessary energy for lighting the watch. A few seconds of light is more than enough to read the time, even in the middle of the night.

To complete this ingenious system, Denis Flageollet, in close concert with James Thompson, researched a new blue photo luminescent material to improve the readability of the hands, indices and timer whilst remaining true to De Bethune’s hallmark colour spectrum.

The main research focus was on developing a material containing crystals capable of two different color emissions: one for daytime, allowing the De Bethune blue to come through for full effect in natural light; and one for nighttime, with the same crystals now glowing with a radiant luminescence, and always remaining faithful to the iconic blue.

The result is unprecedented, and truly unique: A new blue, bright, deep, luminous, of an ardent and elegant tonality that casts the perfect De Bethune blue during the day, and yet radiates the same tone in the dark. This exclusive luminescent material, named Blue Moon, was developed in partnership with the Swedish company Black Badger Advanced Composites (James Thompson) in collaboration with Swiss SuperLuminova™ and is now proprietary to De Bethune.

The rotating bezel made its first appearance in watchmaking in 1952. It serves to enable accurate calculation of immersion time, as well as the transition through various decompression stops. of the different levels. Generally, all the numerals relating to the minutes counter are indicated on the bezel, which tends to create a more crowded visual effect.

For the DB28GS Grand Bleu, these indications appear on the sapphire crystal driven by the bezel. This developed in the workshops of the Manufacture in L’Auberson enables the model to remain elegantly slender and instils a pleasing casual chic aesthetic.

Hand-wound, with central seconds and a five-day power reserve indicated on the dial, this is the 27th calibre entirely developed and manufactured by the Manufacture De Bethune, equipped with a state-of-the-art in-house-made balance wheel.

The presence of the titanium / white gold balance wheel and balance-spring with flat terminal curve ensures an ideal mass / inertia ratio for an optimal frequency of 28,800 vph suitable for wristwatches.

It is endowed with numerous properties – such as optimised efficiency, reliability, regulating quality, thermo-compensation, anti-magnetism – leading to concrete results, since De Bethune has already improved the efficiency of its sprung-balance-escapement ensemble by achieving a 20% increase in power reserve.

The calibre is also equipped with the triple pare chute system. De Bethune was not only the first to design a bridge symmetrical held on both sides and thus serving to maintain the balance wheel perfectly in position, but also added two shock absorbers on either end as well as that of the balance wheel itself.

Finally, the DB28GS Grand Bleu does not escape the special attention devoted to the refined work of hand-crafted finishing performed within the company workshops in L’Auberson, such as blued titanium components, zirconium case middle and Microlight decoration.

Water-resistant to 105 metres (10 ATM), the DB28GS Grand Bleu is no exception to the strict rule of wearer comfort that De Bethune applies to its models in general and particularly to the DB28 collection. This exceptional comfort stems from a combination of the light feel of the titanium case, the softness of its hand-polished finish, the 12 o’clock crown position and above all the presence of the patented system of floating lugs that adapt to wrist size and movements.

For the DB28GS Grand Bleu, the lugs have been completely redesigned in a medium size tailored to the sporting spirit of the watch, featuring the famous cones that are especially prominent in this model and adorned with black zirconium inserts recalling the sides of the case middle.

The model is delivered with two straps: a canvas version and a striated natural rubber iteration with titanium folding clasp, which also contributes to the practical and pleasant wearer comfort of this timepiece.

Technical details

Name: DB28GS Grand Bleu
Reference: DB28GSV2AN

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Power reserve indication between 9 and 10 o’clock, unidirectional rotating bezel, manual dial lighting

Movement
DB2080
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions), push button at 6 o’clock to activate the lightening
Number of parts: 400
Jewelling: 51 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Specificities: Titanium/white gold balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Dial lighting produced by an entirely mechanical means working on the dynamo principle powered by a twin barrel and manually controlled via a pusher – De Bethune Innovation (2019)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Mirror- polished grade 5 titanium motion-work bridge
Plate and barrel bridge covers in hand-smoothed grade 5 titanium and adorned with “Microlight engraving” – De Bethune Innovation (2007)
Hand-snailed barrels
Hand-polished and chamfered steel parts

Display
Blued titanium hours and minutes hands with polished steel insert and second blued steel insert, luminescent tip
Polished steel seconds hand with luminescent tip
Power-reserve indicator between 9 and 10 o’clock

Dial
Satin-brushed grade 5 titanium minutes dial with cut-out
Arabic numerals
Rotating bezel crystal with metallised minutes ring

Case
Case material: Black zirconium case middle with “Microlight” decoration, brushed and polished grade 5 titanium caseback and bezel
Case diameter: 44 mm
Case thickness: 12.8 mm
Lugs: Floating lugs in brushed grade 5 titanium – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double antireflective coating
Case back: Open in brushed grade 5 titanium
Water resistance: 10 ATM

Strap
Natural rubber strap + 1 canvas / leather strap
Buckle: Folding clasp in brushed grade 5 titanium

De Bethune DB28 Yellow Tones

With complete mastery of the art of thermal oxidation of metals, De Bethune continues to explore all the colour shades resulting from the heat released by the chemical reactions of heat-treated steel and titanium.

Denis Flageollet, Master Watchmaker and founder of De Bethune, initially started working with his team on the blue tonality. Natural blue, a colour linked to the notion of infinity and harmony, is one of De Bethune’s main fields of research. It has become the company’s distinctive signature.

As with a luminous vibration, each colour exudes a different type of energy. True as ever to the natural colours of the four elements – sky, water, earth and fire – De Bethune now explores a warm colour (as opposed to the cool colour of blue). And so it is that the Maison reveals, in a new edition, natural shades of amber and flame blonde, reflecting the colours of fire, sun, warmth and luxuriance, along with the incomparable clarity that emerges from it, synonymous with energy, joy and vigour.

To create its own fiery, radical, magnetic yellow, De Bethune applies its famous technique of gently oxidising grade 5 titanium to tint its surface naturally. This ritual conjures an extraordinary, rare and uniform fire yellow.

This know-how is applied to the case components and to most of the movement’s components. Each element is thus individually examined to ensure the process is properly calibrated to suit shape and mass. This preliminary step is essential to obtain a range of uniform tones. However, the human touch and the typologies of the materials mean that tiny variations persist. These nuances are essential to De Bethune as they create a visual resonance that impacts the perception of the result. Indeed, the final fire yellow tone, brought about by the sum of all these variations, translates into a kind of all-encompassing vibrancy.

The iconic De Bethune DB28 features a polished grade 5 titanium case mounted on the two new floating lugs unveiled this year. Entirely redesigned, of intermediate size, harmonised and adapted to the essence of the watch, they come together in the hallmark rib, more prominent here, recalling the spirit of the first De Bethune collections.

The hand-wound mechanical calibre is fully visible and incorporates several fundamental technical discoveries. The patented spherical moon phase is located at 6 o’clock. Made of steel and palladium, it is accurate to within one lunar day every 122 years.

At the heart of the watch, the high-performance escapement developed by De Bethune features a titanium balance wheel with white gold weights and a flat terminal curve balance spring, ensuring an ideal mass-inertia ratio for the optimal frequency of 28,800 vph suitable for wristwatches. It comes endowed with manifold properties: aerodynamics, optimised efficiency, reliability, regulating quality, thermo-compensation, anti-magnetism… which deliver concrete results as attested by the 20-percent gain in power reserve achieved by improving the efficiency of the escapement-oscillator assembly.

The calibre also comes equipped with the triple “pare-choc” shock absorption system. De Bethune was not only the first contemporary manufacturer to design a bridge held symmetrically on both sides to perfectly maintain the balance wheel in position, but also to integrate two shock absorbers at each end, in addition to the shock absorber of the balance wheel itself.

All finishes are by hand, featuring a polished titanium motion work bridge, “Côtes De Bethune”- decorated bridges and rose-work grinding on the barrel ratchets. The hours are indicated by skeleton hands on spherical polished steel indices.

The whole finds its completion with an alligator strap presenting a brown buckle with a yellow pin buckle in polished grade 5 titanium, which also contributes to the practical and pleasant wearing of this timepiece.

Technical details

Name: DB28 Yellow Tones
Reference: DB28YT

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Spherical moon phase indication at 6 o’clock,
Power reserve situated on the back

Movement
DB2115V4
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Spherical moon phase adjustment via a corrector
Technical features of calibre DB2115V4
Number of parts: 275
Jewelling: 35 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Specificities: Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimized for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Spherical moon phase indication accurate to a degree of one lunar day every 122 years – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Yellow polished grade 5 titanium plate cover
Handmade yellow grade 5 titanium motion works bridge
Barrels bridge adorned with “Côtes De Bethune” in yellow titanium
Open worked and hand sailed barrels
Rhodium power reserve indicator background decorated with “De Bethune” circular graining brown and engraved ring
Steel parts beveled and polished by hand

Display
Display: Hours and minutes hands in flame-browned steel
Spherical moon phase indication in palladium and flamebrowned steel with an accuracy of one lunar day every
122 years at 6 o’clock – De Bethune Patent (2004)

Dial
Circular-grained titanium hours ring
Moon phase bezel in polished browned titanium
Spherical polished titanium hour-markers set on a browned polished titanium circle

Case
Case material: Yellow polished grade 5 titanium
Case diameter: 42.6 mm
Case thickness: 9.30 mm
Lugs: Floating lugs in browned polished grade 5 titanium – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Screwed case back in grade 5 polished titanium that opens on a linear power reserve indicator in browned steel Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap’
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Brown with yellow pin buckle in polished grade 5 titanium

Independent Brands ANONIMO, De Bethune, H. Moser & Cie., HAUTLENCE and Vulcain to Showcase Their Creations At The Hyperion Hotel During Baselworld 2019 Exhibition

Five independent Swiss watch brands have joined forces at Baselworld to create a space dedicated to beautiful watchmaking and design. Known as the Time Lounge, it groups together ANONIMO, De Bethune, H. Moser & Cie., HAUTLENCE and Vulcain. From March 20th to 26th 2019, visitors can discover the newest models from these five independent brands on the third floor of the Hyperion Hotel, formerly the Ramada Plaza Basel Hotel.

At the heart of this redesigned area, ANONIMO, De Bethune, H. Moser & Cie., HAUTLENCE and Vulcain will meet clients, friends of the brands, journalists and enthusiasts to showcase their new models for 2019. With a focus on independent watchmaking and exceptional design, these five watchmaking houses are cleverly using the synergies between them to display their openness of spirit. The informal, relaxed atmosphere on the third floor of the Hyperion Hotel will be a must-visit location for those in the know.

Aldo Magada, Pierre Jacques, as well as Georges-Henri, Edouard and Bertrand Meylan along with their teams are looking forward to sharing this adventure and welcoming their visitors to Basel.

H. MOSER & CIE.

H. Moser & Cie. was created by Heinrich Moser in 1828. Based in Neuhausen am Rheinfall, it currently employs around 60 people, has developed 12 in-house calibres to date and produces more than 1,500 watches per annum.

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Tourbillon

H. Moser & Cie. manufactures parts such as regulating organs and balance-springs, which are used for its own production as well as to supply its partner companies. H. Moser & Cie. is honoured to have a Moser family member with the company as Honorary Chairman and President of the Heinrich and Henri Moser Foundation.

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds in Red Gold

The aim of the Moser Foundation, created by one of Heinrich Moser’s descendants, is to keep the family history alive and seek out antique pieces for the Moser Museum, located in Charlottenfels Manor, Heinrich Moser’s family home. With its substantial watchmaking expertise and highly acclaimed experience in the sector, MELB Holding holds shares in H. Moser & Cie. and Hautlence. MELB Holding is an independent family group, based in the heart of the legendary Vallée de Joux.

HAUTLENCE

Founded in 2004, HAUTLENCE – whose name itself is an anagram of Neuchâtel – pays tribute to the birthplace of the watchmaking art. The brand has been praised by watch collectors and aficionados from across the world for bringing a new dynamism to the art of fine watchmaking. With annual production of around 200 pieces, HAUTLENCE has seven calibres designed and developed in-house, whilst also relying on external partners for the movements used in certain collections.

HAUTLENCE Vagabonde 03

HAUTLENCE is pushing the boundaries of traditional watchmaking codes, uniting them with innovative mechanical solutions and an unlimited universe borrowed from the various arts, combining design, architecture, and movement.

HAUTLENCE Vagabonde Tourbillon

The brand takes its inspiration from this to create new approaches to time display, which it uses to elevate the two key dimensions of space and time. Ever conscious of a functional relationship with beauty, HAUTLENCE invents timepieces with completely new contours and depths, respecting every stage and every person involved in their production. In strategic terms, HAUTLENCE can count on support from MELB Holding, an independent family watchmaking group which has been offering its experience and network since 2012, to foster the synergies between HAUTLENCE and the group.

DE BETHUNE

De Bethune is an independent Swiss watch manufacturer located at L’Auberson, in the Jura mountain pastures of the canton of Vaud, Switzerland. Here, some 30 employees, including watchmakers, engineers, developer-designers, micromechanical engineers, polishers and decorators focus firmly on the research and development of technical and aesthetic innovations in the spirit of the great 18th century master watchmakers.

De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Chronomètre Tourbillon

The brand designs, develops and produces all its timepieces within its own Manufacture. Since its foundation, De Bethune has developed no fewer than 27 calibres, presented some 30 world premieres and registered a large number of patents as well as producing 150 one-off pieces to meet the expectations of the most discerning collectors.

De Bethune DB28GS Grand Bleu

De Bethune has received the highest distinctions awarded by the watch industry all over the world, including the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix for the best watch of the year. Today, Denis Flageollet, co-founder of the brand and master watchmaker, together with CEO Pierre Jacques, are spearheading the future of the company. The pure style, clean lines and delicacy of the cases represent the inimitable hallmark of De Bethune creations.

ANONIMO

Now 20 years old, the brand combines Swiss precision with a sporty-chic Italian lifestyle with a strong character. Founded in Florence by passionate watchmakers convinced that the product should be more important than the name, the brand developed timepieces for professional divers. Since 1997, ANONIMO offers watches expressing robustness and elegance.

ANONIMO NAUTILO Vintage

A pioneer in the use of original materials, it was the first brand to offer bronze diving watches. With their cushion cases, the lines MILITARE and NAUTILO and now EPURATO are characterized by an atypical construction and dials that recall the “A” of ANONIMO with markers at 12:00, 4:00 and 8:00. Based on the other side of the Matterhorn since 2013, its production now meets all the criteria to be Swiss Made.

VULCAIN

Founded in 1858 by Maurice Ditisheim, the Vulcain watch counter developed very quickly to become famous the world over, all the while remaining a family-owned business. A talented watchmaker, Maurice Ditisheim stood out by creating and making complication watches, such as the “Vallée de l’Arve” pocket watch, first made in the 1890s for the Chinese market, and featuring the functions of minute repeater, a small alarm and a perpetual calendar, presented in a gold case, and enamelled in a large fire and then inset with pearls. The strength of the brand is the reality of its history and the truth of its products, a decisive combination that opens Vulcain up to vast horizons.

VULCAIN 50s Presidents’ Watch

The uncontested specialist in mechanical alarm watches, Vulcain even today continues to write its history for the long term and with sustainability. Branded by the seal of constant innovation, the timepieces offered by Vulcain find favour with a demanding, and always better informed, clientele, a customer that adopts the brand’s motto ‘Always at the right time, always in the right place” as their own.

Exhibition details

Dates: 20th to 26th March 2019
Times: 8.30am to 6.30pm
Location: Timelounge, 3rd Floor
Hyperion Hotel (ex Ramada-Plaza)
Messeplatz 12, 4058 Basel, Switzerland

De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Chronomètre Tourbillon

Gravity is one of the greatest enemies of mechanical watches. Based on the tourbillon that AbrahamLouis Breguet invented for his 18th century pocket watches, De Bethune has sought to optimise it on today’s wristwatches.

To be more efficient on a wrist engaged in rapid and disordered movements, the tourbillon must have the highest possible frequency and fastest rotation speed.

In creating a titanium and silicon tourbillon with a frequency of 36,000 vibrations/hour, an extraordinarily light carriage (0.18 grams, the lightest ever created in the industry) spinning on its axis every 30 seconds, comprising a total of 63 components (the lightest of which weighs less than 0.0001 grams), this feat is easier to describe than to achieve.

The 42mm-diameter watch is equipped with the mechanical manual-winding DB2109V4 calibre, entirely designed, developed and produced within the De Bethune workshops in L’Auberson, Switzerland. A jumping seconds display ensures precise read-off. The state-of-the-art titanium balance-wheel with white gold inserts has been optimised for temperature changes and air penetration, regulated by means of the De Bethune balance-spring with its patented flat terminal curve which maintains a perfect centre of gravity.

The test report on the watch, measured in six positions, indicates the excellent results achieved by the model, with 0.00 sec. /day in all positions. This confirms that combining the jumping seconds complication with the tourbillon has in no way been detrimental to the precision of this chronometer.

Finally, the famous De Bethune starry sky with its gold-studded blued titanium dial can be personalised in accordance with the customer’s wishes (with a date and a geographical location). The traditional gold leaf method has been complemented by laser beam micro-milling to create a Milky Way effect.

Technical details

Name: DB25 Starry Varius Chronomètre Tourbillon
Reference: DB25STTIS3

Functions
Hours, Minutes, jumping seconds, 30’’ indicator via the ultra-light De Bethune tourbillon cage on case back

Movement
DB2109V4
Type: Mechanical manual-winding calibre
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Number of parts: 260
Jewelling: 43 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 4 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Specificities:
– Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
– “De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
– Silicon escape wheel
– Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’ tourbillon in titanium – De Bethune Innovation (2008)
– De Bethune Dead Beat Second – De Bethune Innovation (2011)
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Silver plate and barrel bridge cover polished
Hand-snailed barrels
Hand-polished, chamfered steel parts

Display
Display: Hands in hand-polished steel

Dial
De Bethune star-studded sky in blued and polished titanium with hand-fitted white gold pins depicting the stars
Milky Way patterns produced by laser beam micro milling, gilded with 24-carat gold leaf
Silver-toned hours and minutes ring

Case
Case material: Polished grade 5 titanium
Case diameter: 42 mm
Case thickness: 10, 3 mm
Lugs: Integrated, hollowed lugs
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Open back, De Bethune 30 ” silicon/titanium Tourbillon, 36,000 vph – central jumping seconds
Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in grade 5 titanium

De Bethune Launches its Latest DB 25 Starry Varius Timepiece in USA in Partnership with Silicon Valley Retailer Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry

Inaugurating a new partnership with Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry, Independent Swiss watch manufacturer De Bethune has chosen the Silicon Valley retailer to debut the brand’s widely admired DB 25 Starry Varius. The new timepiece will arrive in the US market this month at Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry’s Menlo Park boutique in the Rosewood Sand Hill Resort.

De Bethune’s superior craftsmanship, highly limited production, and distinct, modern aesthetic have made De Bethune timepieces highly sought collector’s objects the world over. As the Bay Area’s leading high horology salon specializing in small, independent watch makers, Silver Fine Jewelry was the clear choice to be De Bethune’s exclusive Bay area retailer and as the site of De Bethune’s US debut of its latest celestially inspired timepiece, the DB 25 Starry Varius.

Star-studded dials have become a recurrent theme for De Bethune, and the new DB Starry Varius continues the theme with a new take on the night sky for its classic DB25 model. White gold pins, representing the stars, have been hand-fitted into the blued and polished titanium dial surface, and the Milky Way pattern has been further enhanced with laser beam micro milling and gilding. Polished rose gold hour markers and hands and a silver-toned hours and minutes ring complete the composition, framed by a slender case in polished grade 5 titanium measuring 8.8mm thick and 42mm in diameter.

On the reverse side, the sapphire crystal case-back of the DB25 Starry Varius reveals the in-house mechanical manual winding DB2105 calibre. The intricate movement and its components have been hand-finished to the highest standards with rich polishes and “Cotes de Bethune” engravings. The high level of finish and ingenuity attest to De Bethune’s approach, combining art and science in a forward-thinking ethos that De Bethune projects will particularly appeal to the Silicon Valley market.

Stephen Silver is a Silicon-valley based gemologist, geologist, diamonteer, and philanthropist. As Chief Executive Officer of S. H. Silver Company, a premiere timepiece and jewelry house located in Menlo Park, California, Stephen Silver has established an international reputation amongst elite collectors for his expertise in diamond and color gemstone cutting, jewelry design, and fine timepieces, while his business acumen has earned widespread acclaim in the watch and jewelry industry. Silver founded an estate jewelry firm in Menlo Park specializing in antiques and precious stones.

Silver studied geology at the Gemological Institute of America, going on to found an estate jewelry firm in Menlo Park specializing in antiques and precious stones and gaining access to a number of history’s most important colored gems. Mr. Silver is widely recognized for his donation of the storied “Cullinan Blue Diamond Necklace” to The Smithsonian Museum of Natural History in Washington D.C. Silver has also recut and improved important color gemstones which have sold for hundreds of millions of dollars at auction or to private collectors, such as “The Pink Promise Diamond,” sold for over $32 million in 2017.

Stephen Silver has since expanded his business into a vertically integrated wholesale manufacture and retail operation of international reach, with two locations based in and around Menlo Park, California. Beyond his renown as a gemstone and jewelry expert, Stephen is also recognized in Silicon Valley for his extensive philanthropic work and community involvement, having donated millions in recent years to causes in his community and investing in emerging technologies.

De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius

With DB25 Starry Varius timepiece, which is a poetic interpretation of the traditional DB25 watch, De Bethune once again displays its technical and aesthetic mastery. A personalised constellation, revisited lugs and an original 42mm case compose with delightfully pure classic imparting fresh creative momentum while showcasing horological history.

Over the past few years, star-studded dials have become an integral part of the history of the Maison. Personalised according to a specific geographical location and a given date, the gold pins are fitted one by one on this star-studded sky, thus making each model truly unique. The Milky Way pattern is then gilded using the traditional gold leaf technique and enhanced by laser beam micro milling.

With this new creation, De Bethune offers a whole new take on the sky, framed by a slender case in polished grade 5 titanium case measuring 8.8mm thick, 42mm in diameter and featuring perfectly integrated and open-worked lugs.

Like all the most recent De Bethune creations, the DB25 Starry Varius is designed to be not only pleasant to wear, but above all to reflect the brand’s characteristic elegance and refinement. The display features discreetly hand-polished rose gold hands sweeping over exactly matching hour-markers set on a silver-toned ring.

The sapphire crystal case-back with its double anti-reflective coating reveals the impeccable craftsmanship of the movement incorporating the latest De Bethune technologies. Powered by the in-house mechanical manual winding DB2105 calibre oscillating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, the DB25 Starry Varius is equipped with the latest titanium balance wheel as well as the triple pare-chute shock absorbing system.

Technical details

Model: DB25 Starry Varius
Reference: DB25VTIS3

Functions
Hours, Minutes

Movement
DB2005
Type: Mechanical manual-winding calibre
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Number of parts: 160
Jewelling: 27 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Specificities: Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimized for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Patent (2005)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Silver plate and barrel bridge cover adorned with “Côtes De Bethune”
Hand-snailed barrels
Hand-polished, chamfered steel parts

Dial
De Bethune star-studded sky in blued and polished titanium with hand-fitted white gold pins depicting the stars
Milky Way patterns produced by laser beam micro milling, gilded with 24-carat gold leaf
Silver-toned hours and minutes ring with polished rose gold hour-markers
Hands in hand-polished rose gold

Case
Case material: Polished grade 5 titanium
Case diameter: 42 mm
Case thickness: 8,8 mm
Lugs: Integrated, hollowed lugs
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Open case back in polished grade 5 titanium
Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double antireflective coating
Water-resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in grade 5 titanium

De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk V2

Manufacture De Bethune is adding a new movement to its repertoire by introducing the latest in-house self-winding Auto V2 calibre, beating at the heart of an extremely modern looking timepiece. Presented in two versions during Baselworld – featuring a silver-toned or blue dial – the DB27 Titan Hawk V2 is inspired by the design and technology of its predecessors, while adding a resolutely novel touch.

Aesthetic and technical considerations are by definition inseparably entwined, as vividly exemplified in the new DB27 Titan Hawk V2 which is endowed with a number of appealing assets.

Slender lines, a microlight dial, as well as floating lugs and a brushed caseback framing a transparent sapphire crystal pane: this is a watch that stands out not only for its pared-down design but also for its entirely in-house-made movement.

Focusing firmly on essentials, the DB27 Titan Hawk V2 model is equipped with the unprecedented AUTO V2 calibre driving hours, minutes and seconds hands, making it an attractive contemporary chronometer for daily wear. Housing a single barrel ensuring a 60-hour power reserve – as well as the latest titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts visible through the transparent caseback – this movement based on in-house technology is equipped with a titanium and tungsten alloy oscillating weight providing a reliable supply of energy.

While the inspiration derived from the original DB27 Titan Hawk is readily perceptible, each detail has been rethought and redesigned so as to recapture the elegance and legibility of an object that is first and foremost functional.

Juxtaposing Roman and Arabic numerals, the time read-off appears on hours and minutes rings located around the dial circumference. In one interpretation, the silver-toned dial is swept over by mat steel hands with hand-polished, flame-blued ends, while the other is graced with a blue dial swept over by blued mat steel hands with polished ends.

The case in grade 5 titanium – brushed for the silver-toned dial version and polished for the blue dial interpretation – displays all the De Bethune signature features: patented floating lugs, a 12 o’clock crown and microlight decoration of the case middle.

This distinctive and distinguished timepiece conveys in equal measure both the avant-gardist approach of the Manufacture and its hand-crafted tradition.

Technical details

Name: DB27 Titan Hawk V2
Reference: DB27TIS3V2

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds

Movement
AUTOV2
Type: Mechanical self-winding movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time (2 positions)
Number of parts: 217
Jewelling: 29 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 60 hours
Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts – De Bethune Patent (2004) improved settings qualities
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Steel escape wheel
Optimized oscillating weight in titanium and tungsten alloy
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration

Display
Hours and minutes hands in mat flamed-blued steel, with hand-polished steel ends
Seconds hand in hand-polished steel

Dial
Royal blue microlight
Silver-toned chapter ring with Roman numerals
Silver-toned minutes circle with Arabic numerals placed around the rim of the dial

Case
Case material: Polished grade 5 titanium, with middle microlight
Case diameter: 43 mm
Case thickness: 9 mm
Lugs: Short floating lugs in brushed grade 5 titanium – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (Vickers hardness of 1800) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Open in brushed grade 5 titanium
Sapphire crystal (Vickers hardness of 1800) with double anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in grade 5 titanium

De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Limited Edition

Over the years, the award winning DB28 timepiece has become a Manufacture De Bethune classic. This watch has been interpreted in various contemporary iterations, from the “Skybridge” to “Kind of Blue. At the SIHH 2018, De Bethune expands this line with an exceptional timepiece: the DB28 Steel Wheels, issued in a limited edition of 25.

With this model, De Bethune is revealing cutting-edge technology dedicated to serving art: a double self-regulating barrel ensuring a six-day power reserve, a signature De Bethune balance-spring with flat terminal curve, a silicon escape-wheel, a triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system, as well as a new even more high-performance titanium balance-wheel with white gold inserts.

The distinctive architecture of Calibre 2115V4 is beautifully highlighted by the decision to trim down the mechanism, notably by open-working the barrels and ratchet wheels, as well as cutting out the heart of the central delta-shaped bridge. The latter is adorned with a “Côtes De Bethune” decoration, produced using the Microlight micrometric engraving technique developed by De Bethune. The entire movement thus creates the impression of levitating.

The ratcheted chapter ring inspired by gear-wheel toothing surrounds 12 polished spheres marking the hours and adding to the overall volume of the mechanism. The new hours hand, made of sapphire rimmed by blued steel, reveals the heart of the movement. Each detail of the anatomy of this new creation is thus open to view. The Manufacture’s signature spherical moon composed of palladium and blued steel sets the perfect finishing touch to this magnificent vision. Appearing against its night-sky backdrop at 6 o’clock, it spins on its axis with such precision that it will take 122 years to accumulate a one-day discrepancy.

The DB28 Steel Wheels comes dressed in a titanium case with De Bethune’s patented floating-lug system adjusting to wrist size and movements.

Technical details
Name: DB28 Steel Wheels
Reference: DB28SWTIS1PN/S

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Spherical moon-phase indication at 6 o’clock, Power reserve situated on the back

Movement
DB2115V4
Type: Mechanical calibre with manual winding
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Spherical moon-phase adjustment via a corrector
Technical features of calibre DB2115V4
Number of parts: 275
Jewelling: 35 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel
De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Specificities: Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimized for temperature differences and air penetration
De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve
De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Spherical moon-phase indication accurate to a degree of one lunar day every 122 years – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system
De Bethune Patent (2005)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Concave polished grade 5 titanium plate cover
Hand made mirror-polished grade 5 titanium motion works bridge
Barrels bridge decorated with De Bethune stripes and “microlight” engraving
Open worked and hand sailed barrels
Rhodium power reserve indicator background decorated with “De Bethune” circular graining
Blued and engraved ring
Steel parts beveled and polished by hand

Display
Display: Sapphire Hour hand
Chamfered and blued hour hand frame
Minute hand in hand-polished and flame blued steel
Spherical moon-phase indication in palladium and flamed-blued steel with an accuracy of one lunar day every 122 years at 6 o’clock – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Performance indicator between 2 and 3 o’clock

Dial
Hour ring in circular-grained titanium
Moon-phase bezel in polished blued titanium
Spherical polished titanium hours markers set on a blued polished titanium circle

Case
Case material: Polished grade 5 titanium
Case diameter: 42.6 mm
Case thickness: 9.30 mm
Lugs: Short or long floating lugs in polished grade 5 titanium
De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (hardness of 1800 Vickers) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Screwed case back in grade 5 polished titanium that opens on a linear power reserve indicator in blued steel Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Sapphire crystal (hardness of 1800 Vickers) with double anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator skin, lining in alligator
Buckle: Pin buckle in mirror-polished grade 5 titanium

De Bethune Sells Majority Stake to an Investment Consortium Led By Pierre Jacques, Former CEO of the Brand and Private Equity Investor Giovanni Perin

Independent luxury Swiss watch Manufacture De Bethune has announced its decision to sell the majority of its capital to an investment consortium led by Pierre Jacques, former CEO of the brand, and private equity investor Giovanni Perin.

Within the framework of this transaction, Denis Flageollet, co-founder and COO De Bethune, retains a substantial stake in the company. David Zanetta, the brand’s other co-founder, is stepping down and ceding all his shares. He had already withdrawn from the operational side of the company last year, on his 70th birthday, after an outstanding contribution to its expansion over the last 14 years.

De Bethune Watch Manufacture L’Auberson, Canton of Vaud

Since its founding, De Bethune has built a unique and strong industrial base dedicated to the watchmaking art. Today, the brand is distinguished by the highest level of quality and innovation, ranking it firmly within the exclusive circle of Swiss Haute Horlogerie.

The company has developed and produced no less than 25 calibres entirely in-house, around 30 world firsts, a number of patents, as well as 150 one-of-a-kind models. Its work has been honoured in the most prestigious international competitions. De Bethune watches are intended for a worldwide clientele of collectors and connoisseurs. Together, the shareholders are planning new investments designed to strengthen the brand while maintaining a high degree of exclusivity.

De Bethune Dream Watch Meteorite

De Bethune worked on a fragment of outer space to create the Dream Watch Meteorite. Beyond classification, this timepiece reflects the philosophy developed by the brand, which is an approach involving fundamental exploration in the field of watchmaking, always seen in relation with mankind and the human universe. Among the collections, the Dream Watch brings together the most experimental creations.

The Dream Watch Meteorite completes the line, with the use of a rare material that comes from the cosmos and with a purity that is impossible to reproduce. By utilising a fragment that fell more than 4,000 years ago in Campo del Cielo, Argentina, De Bethune has created a magisterial time piece that is a witness, through its origins, to the unfathomable mysteries of the universe. At once a work of art, a philosophical object and a technical challenge, the Dream Watch Meteorite is a dream that mirrors space.

The highly intuitive design follows the organic arching lines that are spontaneously visible in nature, for example in the shape of a leaf. The execution of the design involved a profound rethinking of conventional watch-machining techniques. Composed essentially of iron (92 %) with traces of nickel and cobalt, the hard and compact structure of the meteorite has no similarity to the usual watchmaking materials.

Denis Flageollet and his team advanced step by step to come to grips with the unusual characteristics of this material. The method they adapted for working the original 3-kilo block resembled the techniques of a sculptor, with an initial examination of the raw material, to detect its irregularities and identify the best zone from which the case could be carved.

Each step in the manufacturing process was transformed into an enigma that challenged their skills, knowledge and intuition. Finished by hand, the case retains its original anthracite colour that was then flame-blued by hand, according to the traditional watchmaking technique. This process brought out the profound texture of the meteorite, which is studded with streaks and flashes that ultimately compose a snapshot of the universe.

Although De Bethune pursues a conquest of the unknown, it remains nevertheless faithful to the essence of fine watchmaking, which is to design and produce the most precious timepieces possible. In the Dream Watch Meteorite, the manually wound mechanical movement houses a high speed tourbillon developed by De Bethune. Ultra-light, weighing 0.20 grams, beating to one-tenth of a second, it makes one revolution in 30 seconds. These three key features determine the precision of a tourbillon and De Bethune has chosen the optimal performance for each of them. The calibre incorporates a number of silicon parts, including the patented balance wheel ringed in white gold, and the escape wheel.

The balance spring features the patented De Bethune flat terminal curve, developed in-house. The time is displayed digitally, through a trapezoidal sapphire aperture with a jumping-hours disc and a second dragging minute disc. In the centre, the spherical moon-phase, also a patented complication, turns regularly with such precision that it only needs to be adjusted by one lunar day every 1,112 years.

Winding and setting the time is done by means of a meteorite crown – the same material as the ardillon buckle – decorated with a large natural ruby cabochon protecting a diamond in its inner core.

Technical details

Name: DW5 Meteorite
Reference: DW5T
Limitation: Unique timepiece

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Spherical moon-phase indication at the center, 30’’ indicator via the ultra-light De Bethune tourbillon cage on the back

Movement
DB2149
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding, Spherical moon-phase adjustment and setting the time by means of the crown (3 positions)
Number of parts: 356
Jewelling: 35 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 4 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Specificities: Silicon annular balance encircled by a white gold ring – De Bethune Patent (2010)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Spherical moon-phase indication with an accuracy of one lunar day every 1112 years – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’ tourbillon in silicon and titanium – De Bethune Innovation (2008)
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration

Display
Display: Jumping-hour aperture at 3 o’clock
Analogue minutes indicator on a dragging rotating disc
Spherical moon-phase indication in palladium and flamed-blued steel with an accuracy of one lunar day every 1112 years at 6 o’clock – De Bethune Patent (2004)

Dial
Frame of the jumping-hour aperture in blued grade 5 titanium

Case
Case material: Delta shaped case in solid hand polished and blued iron meteorite
Case diameter: length 58 mm – width 47 mm
Case thickness: 16 mm
Crystal: curved Hard-mineral crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Closed and screwed down case back in solid hand polished and blued iron meteorite with aperture on the 30’’ indicator via the ultra-light De Bethune tourbillon cage
Hard-mineral crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in solid hand polished and blued iron meteorite and blued titanium

De Bethune DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon Meteorite

In this stunning new edition from DB28 line of exclusive mechanical watches, independent Swiss luxury watch manufacture De Bethune incorporates a captivating deep blue dial made with a rare ferrous meteorite that was fallen to earth five thousand years ago and discovered from Santiago del Estero, Argentina.

This blued hand-polished iron meteorite dial with white gold stars imitates the Star studded sky. Matching the dial is a blued and hand-polished grade 5 titanium case that also houses a complex mechanical hand-wound movement whose tourbillon cage is positioned at 6’o clock of the dial. Hand-polished rose gold hour and minute hands add further elegance to the dial and they display basic time indication along with polished and blued titanium hour ring with pointers in pink gold pointers and satin-polished and blued titanium minutes ring.

The movement beats inside this unique watch boasts several innovations and patents introduced by De Bethune such as Silicon escape wheel encircled with a white gold ring, balance-spring with flat terminal curve and ultra-light 30 second De Bethune Tourbillon in silicon and titanium.

Measuring 42.60 mm diameter, the titanium case in an alluring blue shade has patented, long floating lugs in grade 5 polished and blued titanium and sapphire crystals on front glass. Turning back the timepiece, we can discover a linear power reserve indicator featuring a pink gold hand which is visible through the transparent sapphire crystal secured with pink gold screwed case back.

Technical details
Name: DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon Meteorite
Reference: DB28TBM, Unique Timepiece

Functions
Hours, minutes, 30’’ indicator via the ultra-light De Bethune tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock, Power reserve on case back

Movement
DB2019v3
Type: Mechanical calibre with manual winding
Adjustment: Using the crown (2 positions) for winding, and setting the time
Number of parts: 276
Jewelling: 39 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Silicon escape wheel encircled with a white gold ring – De Bethune Patent (2010)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Ultra-light 30 second De Bethune Tourbillon in silicon and titanium – De Bethune Innovation (2008)
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Decoration on power reserve indicator in grade 5 titanium
“De Bethune” concentric graining and blued by hand
Steel parts beveled and flame-blued by hand

Display
Hands in hand-polished rose gold 5N
De Bethune 30″ ultra-light tourbillon in silicone and titanium at 6 o’clock – De Bethune Innovation (2008)

Dial
Star studded sky in blued hand-polished iron meteorite with white gold stars
Hours ring in grade 5 polished and blued titanium with pointers in pink 5N gold
Minutes ring in grade 5 satin-polished and blued titanium

Case
Material: Blued and hand-polished grade 5 titanium
Diameter: 42.60 mm
Thickness: 9.70 mm
Lugs: Long floating lugs in grade 5 polished and blued titanium – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: Sapphire (1800 Vickers hardness), with double antireflective coating
Case back: Screwed case back in polished pink 5N gold and open on a linear power reserve indicator in pink 5N gold; Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness), with double antireflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator skin with alligator padding
Buckle in grade 5 mirror-polished and blued titanium and ardillon in pink 5N gold

De Bethune DB25L Milky Way

In their latest horological masterpiece, De Bethune recreates the captivating beauty of the Milky Way on its elegant blue dial featuring polished rose gold hands and a spherical moon-phase indicator in palladium and flame-blued steel.

De Bethune Manufacture’s craftsmen have used an artful combination of elements and materials to encapsulate in gold and glass a few drops of the essence of the skies. Dexterous fingers have shaped a titanium mirror and, through the flames, an experienced eye has brought forth its infinite chromatic richness. This unique blue oxide structure plays host to the captive stars. First, small white gold spheres set one by one by hand stand out from the deep sky blue. Then, their abundance is revealed under the fiery dart of the laser. Draped in a fine layer of pure gold leaf, they shine and sparkle, casting out subtle golden glints of colour. Finally, a blued steel and platinum spherical moon-phase stands guard majestically over this Elysium.

And yet, it is precisely time that inhabits this proud platinum case with hollowed lugs. Centuries of knowledge and experience stand alongside the most contemporary of materials and innovations in an alliance where the spirit of the great master watchmakers of the past is reborn each second. Here, the respiration of a balance spring on its silicon core echoes the age-old transformation of energy into units of time. There, the steel case back of its mechanical body, polished to a mirror shine, celebrates a forgotten knowledge once reserved solely for the emperors of China.

Emerging from this fusion of past and present is the future of mechanical time, that of twenty-first century watchmaking. However, also underlining the outstanding mastery of the De Bethune Manufacture artists and the unique challenge they face in their work, is its apparent simplicity, like that of starry nights. For, in their quest for perfection and the absolute, the essential reigns supreme and the best always triumphs over pointless complexities. Even the dazzling diamonds encircling it show modesty and restraint beside the celestial clouds of gold on its dial.

Technical details
Model: DB25L Milky Way
Reference: DB25JLPS3V2

Functions
Hours, minutes, spherical moon-phase at 12 o’clock, Power reserve on case back

Movement
DB2105v2
Type: Mechanical caliber with manual winding
Adjustment: Using the crown (3 positions) for winding, setting the spherical moon-phase and setting the time
Number of parts: 286
Jewelling: 29 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – A De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Silicon annular balance encircled by a white gold ring – De Bethune Patent (2010)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Spherical moon-phase indicator with precision of one lunar day every 122 years- De Bethune Patent (2004)
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Patent (2005)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Plate and barrel bridge cover in mirror-polished steel
Hand snailed barrels
Hand-polished, chamfered steel parts

Display
Hours and minutes hands in polished rose gold
Spherical moon-phase indicator in palladium and flame-blued steel with precision of one lunar day every 122 years at 12 o’clock – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Power reserve indicator on the back

Dial
De Bethune star-studded sky in blued and polished titanium with white gold stars pin joined by hand
Milky Way patterns produced by micro laser striking gilded with 24 carats gold leafs

Case
Material: Platinum set with 66 baguette-cut diamonds
Diameter: 44,6 mm
Thickness: 11.3 mm
Lugs: Integrated, hollowed lugs
Crystal: Sapphire (1800 Vickers hardness), with double anti-reflective coating
Back: Open back in polished white gold and sapphire crystal (hardness of 1800 Vickers) with double anti-reflective coating

Strap
Extra-supple alligator skin with alligator padding
Buckle and ardillon in platinum

De Bethune DB28 & DB28T – Kind of Blue

In honour of the colour blue, a fundamental element of its identity, De Bethune presents a monochromatic range of its iconic models, DB28 and DB28T. Radical and magnetic, their colour is created by an artisanal and natural treatment of the metals.

De Bethune has devoted considerable research into natural blue, because the brand considers this colour to be symbolically related to the concept of infinity and harmony. Therefore, De Bethune has dedicated two new creations to this colour, both entirely blue, and united them under the name Kind of Blue.

At De Bethune, the colour blue is imbued with a broad and deep meaning. Evoking simultaneously water, the sky and space, the colour blue is above all envisaged as a luminous vibration by David Zanetta, Curator and Co-Counder, and Denis Flageollet, Master Watchmaker and Co-Founder. At De Bethune, each colour corresponds to a different type of energy derived from the colours of which it is composed.

To create its own blue, De Bethune relied exclusively on a traditional technique, and all the parts in titanium and steel used in Kind of Blue were treated in this manner. It consists of heating the material to colour its surface through oxidation and to modify its physical properties in the process. Since its invention at the beginning of the 16th century, the technique has been used by watchmakers to give a new lustre to watch parts without altering their finishings. It also provides protection against corrosion.

The synonym of watchmaking excellence, it requires a preliminary fine polishing, followed by a heating phase, normally by flame, to create a natural and long-lasting protective film, at the same time as it increases the hardness of the piece. Steel and iron were the only materials treated in this manner until De Bethune began its own experiments with titanium.

Finalised in 2006, the technique is now applied to the purest form of this material, grade 5 titanium. Entirely done by hand, this extremely demanding treatment involves the development of a whole new repertory of steps, because titanium has proven to be a very arduous material to remodel. To give it its definitive lustre, the artisans at De Bethune have to demonstrate exceptional tenacity with each piece they work on.

The thermal treatment for Kind of Blue is applied not only to the elements of the case, but also to most of the parts of the movement. Thus, each part is studied individually, as the process has to be adapted according to its form and its mass. This preliminary phase is essential to ensure a uniform range of tones in the finished product. However, the human touch and the different typologies of the materials result in very subtle variations. These nuances are essential for De Bethune, because they create a visual resonance that affects the appearance of the finished piece. Actually, the definitive colour comes from the sum of all these variations and it is expressed by a kind of overall vibration.

An iconic De Bethune model, the DB28 presents a case made of polished grade 5 titanium, mounted on two floating lugs to ensure superior wearing comfort. On the inside, the mechanical calibre with manual winding is fully visible and integrates several fundamental technical inventions. The patented spherical moon-phase is positioned at 6 o’clock.

Made of steel and palladium, it offers precision that varies by only one lunar day every 122 years. At the heart of the watch, the high-performance escapement developed by De Bethune presents a silicon annular balance, encircled by a white gold ring and a balance-spring with a flat terminal curve that is exclusive to De Bethune. It is protected by a triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system. Power is accumulated and distributed through two self-regulating barrels, also developed by De Bethune. An indicator needle positioned between 2 and 3 o’clock indicates the level of torque that has been built up.

The power reserve indicator can be read on the back of the plate, which is decorated with special concentric graining. All the finishes are done by hand with a motion work bridge in polished titanium, bridges with “Côtes De Bethune” decoration and rose-work grinding on the barrel ratchets. The hours are indicated by skeleton hands on arrow pointers made of polished steel.

The DB28T, a technical development of the DB28, adopts the same case in polished titanium held by double floating lugs for maximum comfort. Its mechanical caliber with hand winding is equipped with a high frequency, ultra fast tourbillon, signed De Bethune.

The lightest in the world with its minuscule 0.20 grammes for 63 parts, it beats at one-tenth of a second and makes a complete rotation in 30 seconds for superior chronometry. Its silicon balance wheel, just as its escape wheel, is encircled with a white gold ring. A self-regulating twin barrel developed in-house ensures constant torque in the movement. Entirely visible, the movement presents a curved delta motion work bridge in polished titanium decorated with applied microsphere stars in white gold.

Decorated by hand, the parts present various types of high watchmaking finishes, with rose-work grinding on the barrel ratchets and on the back, a plate with “De Bethune” concentric graining. The hours are marked by arrow pointers in pink gold, and as an added touch of luxury, indicated by skeleton hands also fashioned in pink gold.

Technical specifications

Name: DB28 Kind of Blue
Reference: DB28BTiBN /S
Vintage: Production limited to 10 pieces in 2018

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Spherical moon phase at 6 o’clock
Power reserve on case back, Performance indicator between 2 and 3 o’clock

Movement
DB2115V4
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Using the crown (2 positions) for winding, and setting the time
Using a corrector for the spherical moon phase
Number of parts: 297
Jewelling: 39 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel
De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Technical features: Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimized for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Spherical moon phase indicator with precision of one lunar day every 122 years – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Blued triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Handmade, blued grade 5 mirror-polished titanium motion works bridge
Plate cover and bridge cover on the barrel in grade 5 blued titanium, adorned with “Côtes De Bethune”
Barrels decorated with rose-work grinding
Power reserve indicator in grade 5 titanium, hand decorated with “De Bethune” concentric graining and blued by hand
Steel parts beveled, polished and flame-blued by hand

Display
Hand-polished and flame-blued steel hands
Spherical moon phase indicator in palladium and flame blued steel with precision of one lunar day every 122 years at 6 o’clock – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Performance indicator between 2 and 3 o’clock

Dial
Blued grade 5 polished titanium hours ring with rose gold hour-markers
Blued grade 5 satin-polished titanium minutes ring

Case
Case material: Blued mirror-polished grade 5 titanium
Case diameter: 43 mm
Case thickness: 9.30 mm
Lugs: Short or long floating lugs in blued grade 5 mirror-polished titanium – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: Sapphire (1800 Vickers hardness), with double antireflective coating
Case back: Screwed case back in blued grade 5 polished titanium that opens on a linear power reserve indicator in rose gold
Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double antireflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Buckle in blued grade 5 mirror-polished titanium and ardillon in rose gold

De Bethune DB25 World Traveller

De Bethune presents the DB25 World Traveller, an intelligent watch featuring a second time zone and world time expressed with a mysterious display. The exceptional ease of use and convenient systems for setting and display make this timepiece a world première.

The DB25 World Traveller is designed to become a loyal companion for the long distance traveller. Although the invention of multiple time zones dates back to the 17th century, the readability and adjustment of the functions on a wristwatch have never been so simple and intuitive. The system is completely secure and each indication can be controlled independently. Once again, De Bethune stands out from the pack by inventing a timepiece that is simple in appearance but conceals a gem of technical intelligence.

Visually, the refinement of the DB25 World Traveller lies in the concentric arrangement of the functions. World times appear on a disc in the centre of the dial, encircled by a graduated channel in which a moving microsphere indicates the reference time – also known as the home time. This microsphere, a technical signature of De Bethune since their invention of the three-dimensional moon-phase, has two halves that allow it to also indicate day and night. One half is blue, the other pink, and they reverse positions when they pass 6 a.m. and 6 p.m. Local time is displayed on the hour circle, and the day on the last exterior circle.

The DB25 World Traveller is equipped with the mechanical calibre DB2547 with manual winding, the latest manufactured. The morphology, performance and high-quality execution of the calibre illustrate the degree of excellence and the philosophy of technical exploration that are so particular to De Bethune.

For the first time, the central delta bridge is embellished with a “Côtes De Bethune” decoration in the centre, produced using the Microlight micrometric engraving technique developed by De Bethune. The polished plate is hollowed out to become concave and thus intensifies the reflections of light as a result. The regulator is equipped with a new evolution, a titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, developed particularly for optimal management of temperature variations.

The DB25 World Traveller transforms the way that a second time zone can be displayed along with a world time indicator. True to the De Bethune approach that focuses first and foremost on the reason behind any watchmaking function, David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet have aimed to make the display correspond ideally to the traveller’s needs. They focused their research on readability and comfort, both in wearing the watch and in manipulating its settings.

Starting in the centre, the dial indicates world time, which is set using an almond shaped push-piece positioned at 8 o’clock. This flexible and precise system moves the city display disc, which is decorated with concentric Microlight, by one-hour clockwise jumps.

The first time zone, or reference time zone, is displayed with 24-hour markers and indicated with a mysterious display by the position of the microsphere, which appears to float weightlessly in its channel. Using the crown, it can be set in both directions (clockwise/anti-clockwise). At 6 a.m. and 6 p.m., the crown pivots on itself to present a pink gold face for daytime, or a back side in blued steel for the night. Local time, or the second time zone, is indicated by the blued leaf-shaped hands, whose curve matches the relief of the dial.

The minutes hand remains naturally coordinated with the reference hour, while the hours hand is controlled by the crown pulled out to the second notch. The hours hand moves forward and back by direct jumps of precisely one hour. The day indication is the last circle on this display, with a design that evokes the solar system. The day is coordinated with local time only in the clockwise direction, and indicated by a jumping pointer that is adjusted by a corrector at 10 o’clock.

The generous 45 mm diameter white gold case provides plenty of room for this display. The champagne and silver tones also structure the reading by sequencing the succession of the indications. The alternation of decorations and volumes also enhances readability, for example, with the slightly domed hours ring, which is also highlighted with a powdered effect to intensify the luminosity of the surface.

The case stands above the wrist, like an instrument, with open lugs attached to the case back. This frees up the middle so that it is accessible for easy adjustment. The crown is an essential component of the DB25 World Traveller; designed to be thin but wide and slightly raised for greater ease in handling. It moves on three notches that are distinguished from one another by their markings.

The mechanical calibre DB2547 with manual winding in the DB25 World Traveller is the
25th calibre designed, manufactured and assembled in-house by De Bethune. In its own right, it is the result of more than 10 years of knowledge and inventions developed by Denis Flageollet and his team. To achieve this new streamlined display, the movement integrates 430 parts.

Visible through a sapphire case back, the reverse side of the movement reveals a new titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts in the rim. The result of in-depth research and prototypes, the balance wheel has the capacity to neutralise the effects of temperature variations through its interaction with the balance spring, with its “De Bethune” flat terminal curve that ensures concentric development. The aerodynamic shape was also designed to diminish air resistance, an important source of disruption, to the greatest extent possible.

True to form, it guarantees perfect balance through all stages from manufacture to assembly. Silicon was chosen for the escapement wheel, due to its light weight and in order to increase the power of the calibre. As for the regulator, it is completely maintained by a triple pare-chute shock absorbing system exclusive to De Bethune. The system combines a titanium bridge that integrates two jewels that act as support columns on each side. A leaf spring system supported by the jewels holds the system in place. The partially visible twin barrels accumulate five days of power reserve through a patented self-regulating power mechanism.

Other distinctive features: De Bethune finishes its movements so that they reflect as much ambient light as possible. For this reason, the finish on the majority of the components is mirror-polished. A number of them, whether they are steel or titanium, are also blued, reflecting De Bethune’s signature colour, as seen here on the bridge and the rim of the balance wheel, as well as on the leaf spring of the triple shock absorber. Rose-work grinding is reserved for the barrel ratchets. An outer ring decorated with grained Microlight and perforated by oblong apertures provides the support for the various indications.

Technical specifications

Name: DB25 World Traveller
Reference: DB25WTWs1
Limitation: Limited edition of 12 pieces

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Second time zone (GMT), World time,
Day/night indicator, Jumping date

Movement
DB2547
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding, setting the local and travel time (GMT) by means of the crown (3 positions) – Secure bidirectional systems
Via a flexible and comfortable push-piece for setting the cities disc (clockwise)
Via a corrector for the date pointer (clockwise)
Number of parts: 455
Jewelling: 38 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – A De Bethune Innovation (2004)

Specificities
Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimized for temperature differences and air penetration
De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Microsphere Day/night indicator in rose gold and blued steel similar decoration technic of the spherical moon phase – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour

Adornment
– Curved mirror-polished steel plate cover
– Steel barrel bridge cover, mirror-polished and adorned with “Côtes De Bethune” enhanced with microlight decoration in its center – De Bethune innovation 2016
– Hand snailed barrels
– Hand-polished, chamfered steel

Display
Hand-polished flamed-blued steel curved hands
Day/night indicator in rose gold 5N and blued steel of the microsphere – similar decoration technique of the spherical moon phase – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Mirror-polished jumping date
Cities (customizable):
– London GMT
– Paris GMT+1
– Moscow GMT+3
– Dubai GMT +4
– Mumbai GMT+5.5
– Bangkok GMT+7
– Hong Kong GMT+8
– Tokyo GMT+9
– Sydney GMT+10
– Auckland GMT+12
– Honolulu GMT -10
– Los Angeles GMT -8
– Mexico GMT -6
– New York GMT -5
– Buenos Aires GMT -3

Dial and flanges
Champagne-toned curved date ring
Silver curved hour ring
Silver 24h sub-dial
Champagne-toned city disc rim with polished and blued markers
Silver city disc with concentric microlight decoration – De Bethune Invention (2007)

Case
Case material: White gold
Case diameter: 45 mm
Case thickness: 13.7 mm
Lugs: Integrated, hollowed lugs
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Open back in polished white gold and sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in white gold

De Bethune DB27 D Polo Edition

To mark its first ever sponsorship of a polo tournament, the De Bethune Princely Polo Cup held in Vaduz on August 29th and 30th , the Geneva based luxury watch Manufacture presents a 10-piece limited edition of the DB27. Exclusively developed for the game of polo, the DB27 D Polo edition can withstand the violent impacts it is liable to sustain on the wrist of the rider wearing it.

Traditionally equipped with a protective cover or swivelled over into its housing, the classic polo player’s watch cannot display the time during play without risk of damage. Thanks to its case equipped with an ultra-sturdy outer shell or ‘hull’, together with perfectly integrated and protected apertures, reading off the time during chukkas is now possible with this limited-edition DB27.The digital jumping hours display and the minutes indicator enable a clear and instant time indication without any actual handling of the watch.

In its research work on new procedures and materials, De Bethune found that the choice of machining hardened steel and of combining its properties with those of a carbon-based coating, was a viable and sustainable alternative solution for ensuring a watch’s shock resistance. This vacuum-based treatment with a layer of carbon and hydrogen is generally applied to stainless steel in the watch industry, whereas the blackened polished hardened steel of the DB27 unites the ideal characteristics that considerably enhance the robustness and elasticity of the case .

Calibre S233D from the Manufacture is equipped with De Bethune patented and innovative features including the patented triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system that protects the regulating organ from repeated and violent shocks.

The 43 mm round case with its 12 o’clock crown leaves comfortable space on the wrist thanks to short floating lugs. These articulated lugs are equipped with a patented spring-based system that enables the watch to adjust to the wrist and to polo players’ movements in order to achieve ultimate comfort and elegance.

In an appealing aesthetic touch, the shimmering overall black polished effect is enlivened by a pink gold medallion hand-engraved with two mallets and inlaid with a hand-polished white gold ball.

Technical details
Model: DB27 D Polo edition Digitale

Functions
Hours & minutes

Movement
Calibre S233D – mechanical self-winding
Power reserve: 5 days
Functions: aperture-type jumping hours – analogue minutes indicator on a rotating disc
Diameter 40 mm
350 components
Hand-crafted finishing and decoration
Self-regulating twin barrel
Silicon/white gold balance wheel – balance spring with flat terminal curve
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system
Titanium/platinum oscillating weight
Silicon escape wheel
Jewelling: 43 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour

Case
Black polished hardened steel with extra-hard 5000 Vickers treatment
Round shape
43 mm in diameter – 13 mm thick
Attachments: short black floating lugs in polished hardened steel with extra-hard 5000 Vickers treatment
Glass: sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment, 1800 Vickers
Crown: screw-locked at 12 o’clock
Back: solid, black in polished hardened steel with extra-hard 5000 Vickers treatment

Display
Hull: black in polished hardened steel with extra-hard 5000 Vickers treatment
Central pink gold medallion hand-engraved with two mallets and inlaid with a polished white gold ball
Engraved and circular satin-brushed titanium ring
Jumping hours aperture at 12 o’clock
Minutes indicator on a rotating disc

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather with pin buckle

 

De Bethune DBSW Unique Piece Only Watch 2015

Swiss luxury watch manufacture De Bethune celebrates ten years of commitment to the Monaco Association against Muscular Dystrophy and revisits on this occasion the model designed for the first edition of Only Watch in September 2005.

Ten years ago, David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet, founders of De Bethune, decided to support the Only Watch project – an auction placed under the patronage of Prince Albert II of Monaco on behalf of research into Duchenne Muscular dystrophy – by creating the first DBS, an incredibly high-tech model with an innovative design.

In 2005, the DBS laid the first foundations of what has now become one of the watch industry’s most innovative and creative R&D labs. Youthful engineers under the guidance of Denis Flageollet have given rise to several unprecedented developments, world firsts and the ten patents filed by the Manufacture since its creation in 2002.

The DBS one-of-a-kind model unveiled in 2015 picks up some of the characteristic design elements of the DBS and is also enriched by ten years of technical innovations. The white gold case testifies to a new thought process undertaken by the brand founders in terms of ensuring a wristwatch makes an ideally comfortable fit, and marked the start of in-depth work on adopting a specific De Bethune functional aesthetic.

The cone-shaped lower lugs, along with the 12 o’clock crown, were subtle details that counter-balance the almost imposing size of the model measuring 45 mm across at its widest point. Continuing this approach, a pivoting gold plate connects the upper section of the strap and the case middle: this was in fact the forerunner of what would later be known as floating lugs – a patented system featuring a spring-type effect that helps adjust to the size of the wrist and its movements.

Calibre DB2115 powering this one-of-a-kind model illustrates the expertise and ingenuity of this “grand” little independent firm through fine innovations such as the self-regulating twin barrel ensuring a six-day power reserve, along with the pairing of the silicon/white gold balance and its balance-spring with flat terminal curve that ensures an ideal mass/inertia ratio and delivers an optimal frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour suited to wristwatches.

The dial provides a fascinating window onto the calibre, revealing a wealth of technical and subtly decorated details. Held by a finely grained titanium annular bridge, the silicon annular balance at 6 o’clock performs an endlessly fascinating mechanical ballet. It appears to be suspended in mid-air, standing out against the anthracite deltoid-shaped bridges and delineating a time read-off zone by means of spherical steel indicators hand-polished and blued using the age-old flame-blueing technique.

In a nod to the Principality of Monaco, a touch of red at 6 and 12 o’clock mingles with the blue of the indicators and of the clean-cut hands. The dial architecture features shimmering reflections playing across the various materials: mirror-polished steel, ruthenium-coated Côtes De Bethune and silver-toned minute ring finishes. It is built around the extreme technical sophistication of the sophisticated movement that explores the technical and artistic skills of the Manufacture and celebrates ten years of exclusivity, excellence and beauty.

Technical details
Model: DBSW
Unique Timepiece

Functions
Hours & minutes
Power-reserve indication on the back

Movement
DB2115 calibre
Mechanical hand-wound movement
Diameter 30 mm
262 parts
Hand-crafted finishing and decoration
Main plate and bridges adorned with De Bethune micro-light motif, hand-polished and chamfered steel parts
Self-regulating twin barrel
Silicon/white gold balance – balance-spring with flat terminal curve
Silicon escape-wheel
Jewelling: 33 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 6 days

Case
White gold, distinctively shaped – 45 per 42.5 mm – thickness 11 mm
Attachments: integrated cone-shaped lugs in white gold
Crystal: sapphire crystal, 1800 Vickers hardness with double anti-reflective treatment
Crown screw-down at 12 o’clock – setting in two positions
Back: solid, in white gold – linear power-reserve indicator

Dial
Anthracite
Titanium bridges with ruthenium finishing
Spherical hour indicators in hand-polished flame-blued steel
Red indicators at 6 and 12 o’clock
Silver-toned minutes ring
Côtes De Bethune
Hands: hand-polished and flame-blued steel

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather with pin buckle