De Bethune DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT

On the occasion of SIAR 2022, the De Bethune Manufacture is unveiling its 30th in-house calibre with the release of the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT.

In March 2021, De Bethune presented the DB Kind of Two Tourbillon, a bold and classic timepiece with double dial. The Manufacture now presents the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT, offering a different time zone on each of its sides.

De Bethune DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT

The DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT is perfectly reversible and can be worn on either side according to the mood of the moment and the time zone chosen. This model houses a highly sophisticated mechanism based on a complex system of gears and pinions arranged on the front or back of the watch, and which enables the hands to turn in the right direction, regardless of the dial chosen.

De Bethune DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT

The front side of the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT displays a dial featuring a sleek and contemporary design that highlights the mechanics. Indeed, it is a new reading of the hour centred on the balance wheel at 6 o’clock, accompanied by the minute index on the periphery.

De Bethune DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT

Extensive work has been done on integrating polished, curved shapes, matt or glossy components, different thicknesses and levels, thereby creating a sensation of ample space and optimal volume, given the minimum height available for a watch integrating the complications of the jumping deadbeat second and the GMT. A perfectly symmetrical deltoid-shaped bridge is positioned in the centre.

De Bethune DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT

The GMT side has a dial based on more traditional aesthetic inspiration, with a finely hand-guilloché central part surrounded by the numerals already featured on the dials of De Bethune models such as the DB8 and DB10.

De Bethune DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT

The GMT function is complex in its conception, but very simple in its use. The layout of the functions is based on a double display of hours and minutes on both sides. Firstly, the owner sets his reference (home) time, and indicated by the hour and minute hands on the 12 o’clock dial, by means of the crown in position 3 on the contemporary side. Secondly, he will set his second time zone on the GMT side, by the hour and minute hand which is controlled by the crown pulled out to position 2.

De Bethune DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT

Easy to use, yet highly complex, the system of floating lugs lends itself particularly well to the “pivoting” of the case. Redesigned especially for the DB Kind of Two, these elements have been equipped on each side with an ingenious little rotating mechanism made up of 28 components.

Thanks to a cam, a small “notch” allows the watch case to be instinctively and perfectly positioned in line with the floating lugs. The round case rotates on its central axis and can be positioned, front or back, in a delightfully easy, smooth and entirely natural way.

De Bethune DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT

The perfectly symmetrical shape of the case middle offers a beautiful balance with the floating lugs and its elegant crown totally integrated at 12 o’clock (or 6 o’clock depending on the side chosen).

Technical details

Model: De Bethune DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT
Reference: DBK2V1

Functions
Dual front and back display of hours and minutes, jumping seconds, Second time zone (GMT)

Movement
Calibre DB2517
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding, setting the time and the GMT, by means of the crown (3 positions)
Technical features of calibre DB2517
Number of parts: 394
Jewelling: 58 rubies
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 4 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Specificities: Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
De Bethune Dead Beat Second – De Bethune Innovation (2011)
GMT allowing to adjust 2 time zones, different on each side
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Motion works bridge and concave cover plate in grade 5 titanium, mirror-polished
Polished and chamfered barrel bridge, with shot-blasted stages
Hand snailed barrels
Steel parts polished and chamfered by hand

Displays

Contemporary single-sided display
– Display: Polished titanium hours and minutes indication; Minute indication on the periphery; Hour indication centered around the balance wheel at 6 o’clock
– Dial: Silver hour ring with polished blued index; Silver colour minute ring with blue transfer

Classic reverse side display
– Display: hand-polished and blued titanium hands for hours, minutes and dead beat seconds
– Dial: Silvered and relief, with convex levels and guilloché central part

Case
Case material: Polished grade 5 titanium
Case diameter: 43,3 mm
Case thickness: 11,4 mm
Crown: at noon on the front side, at 6 o’clock on the reverse side, and integrated into the case
Lugs: Polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006)
With case turning mechanism that can be clearly positioned on the front or back side
Crystal doubles-sides: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in polished grade 5 titanium

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar Titanium 40mm (DB25sQP)

De Bethune expands its perpetual calendar collection by releasing DB25sQP, a new model with a two-tone silver and blue dial, integrated lugs and a new 40mm titanium case.

Originally launched in 2011, the De Bethune DB25QP combines the perpetual calendar mechanism with the most romantic watchmaking complication – the moon phase.

Inspired by the shape of drums, the 40 mm-diameter round case with its slender and resolutely classic lines, is subtly enhanced by the open-worked lugs characteristic of the DB25 collection.

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar Titanium 40mm (DB25sQP)

The two-tone hand-guilloché dial features a pattern radiating across 12 sectors. The perfect legibility has been achieved by the assembly of annular blue appliques, with silver-toned raised transfers and Roman numerals, marking off the subdials and the chapter ring.

At 12 o’clock, a palladium and blued steel sphere is set against a sky dotted with pink gold stars, also incorporating a leap-year indicator in a gold disc. The date can be read on a dial at 6 o’clock, while the apertures displaying the day of the week and the month are respectively located at 9 and 3 o’clock.

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar Titanium 40mm (DB25sQP)

The round case of the new De Bethune DB25sQP watch retains the harmonious lines that contributed to the success of the original DB25QP but comes in titanium. Its integrated, open-worked and curved lugs further bring out the practical and pleasant wearing of this classically inspired watch.

This perpetual calendar is equipped with the Calibre DB2324V2, which is an improved version of the De Bethune DB2324 movement.

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar Titanium 40mm (DB25sQP)

Entirely designed and developed by Denis Flageollet’s team in the Manufacture’s Haute Horlogerie workshops in Sainte Croix (Swiss Jura), the self-winding Calibre DB2324V2 offers a 5- day power reserve.

It incorporates a perpetual calendar, a spherical moon indicating the moon phases with a precision corresponding to 1 day/122 years, a self-regulating double barrel, a triple pare-chute system and a titanium/white gold balance.

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar Titanium 40mm (DB25sQP)

Visible on the back of the watch, the balance is made of titanium and features the latest advances including an adjusted diameter and small white gold weights placed around the rims endowing it with a remarkable quality of inertia, reliability and regulation.

This model is equipped with the famous De Bethune balance spring. The Manufacture has opted to maintain its centre of gravity exactly in the centre by using a flat curve affixed to the outside of the balance spring.

Differences in the thickness of the blade add to the almost perfect precision of its concentric development. Its many advantages notably include reduced thickness, improved concentricity quality, finer adjustment of the index assembly system as well as no need for its pins, as the shape of the curve even acts as a shock absorber in case of impacts. The escape-wheel is made of silicon for the lightness of the material and also to increase the power of the calibre.

Visible through the sapphire caseback, the movement is powered by a titanium and platinum oscillating weight. The transparent case-back also offers the view of its finishes: a three-quarter platinum bridge with sandblasted and hand-coloured starry sky decoration; a blued titanium balance bridge and oscillating weight arm; a hand-coloured white gold oscillating weight; as well as hand-bevelled and hand-polished steel parts.

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar Titanium 40mm (DB25sQP)

The De Bethune Perpetual Calendar Reference DB25sQP is fitted with a leather strap secured by a polished titanium buckle and accompanied by a second grey fabric strap.

This new timepiece will be limited to a single production run of 15 units per year.

Technical details

Model: De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar
Reference: DB25sQPATIS13

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Spherical moon phase indication and leap-year indication at 12 o’clock, Perpetual calendar indicating the month at 3 o’clock, the date at 6 o’clock and the day of the week at 9 o’clock

Movement
Calibre DB2324V2
Type: Mechanical self-winding movement
Adjustment: Winding, setting the date and the time by means of the crown (3 positions)
Month, day of the week and spherical moon phase adjustment via correctors
Number of parts: 423
Jewelling: 48 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Titanium and white gold balance wheel – De Bethune Innovation (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Spherical moon phase indication accurate to a degree of one lunar day every 122 years – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Optimized oscillating weight in titanium and platinum
Oscillating weight shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2006)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
¾ plate with starry decor, sandblasted and snailed by hand
Balance bridge and oscillating weight arms in blued titanium
White gold oscillating weight hand snailed
Hand-polished, chamfered steel parts

Dial
Bicolor silver and blue hand-guilloché, with 12 radiating sectors
De Bethune star-studded sky in blued titanium, inlaid with rose gold stars
Curved hour, date and moon phase rings with silver relief Roman numerals
Hands curved, in hand mirror-polished steel
Perpetual calendar apertures indicating the day of the week at 9 o’clock and the month at 3 o’clock on anthracite discs with silver decal
Sub dial at 6 o’clock indicating the day of the month
Leap year indicated by a gold pastille appearing in the starry sky at 12 o’clock
Spherical moon phase indication in palladium and blued steel with an accuracy of one lunar day every 122 years at 12 o’clock – De Bethune Patent (2004)

Case
Material: Grade 5 titanium
Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 11.3 mm
Lugs: Integrated, hollowed lugs
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Open back in polished titanium and sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in polished titanium

De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Aérolite

De Bethune presents its latest cosmic inspired timepiece, the DB25 Starry Varius Aérolite. Blended with the iconic Swiss watch manufacture’s horological innovations, this mechanical timekeeper features a starry sky dial created from a meteorite.

Denis Flageollet, founder and Master Watchmaker of De Bethune, is passionate about meteorites. Previously, the brand used ferrous meteorites to create one of the cases of the famous Dream Watch 5, and the dials of the DB28 Kind of Blue Meteorite and the DB28XP Météorite models. In the new DB25 Starry Varius Aérolite watch, the Maison has used a new kind of meteorite: Muonionalusta Meteorite.

De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Aérolite

Believed to have struck planet Earth more than one million years BCE, somewhere between Finland and Sweden on the banks of the Muniono river, this is probably the world’s oldest known meteorite to date. The first fragment was discovered in Sweden, in 1906. Composed mainly of iron and nickel, it is distinguished by the perfectly geometrical lines of its 60° angle cross-hatched “Widmanstätten” pattern.

De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Aérolite

The DB25 Starry Varius Aérolite’s Muonionalusta Meteorite dial has a distinctive texture, along with geometrical patterns aligned in a precise way that makes each timepiece special and unique.

Master of the thermal oxidation of metals, De Bethune has created a starry sky accompanied by its Milky Way on a previously blued meteorite dial. This azure shade results from the heat released by the chemical reactions of the heated meteorite.

De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Aérolite

The blue dial surface boasts a number of small white gold pins, delicately driven in between the different shapes and thicknesses of the octahedral geometrical structures. The customer can also choose a given constellation, according to a precise sky map, at a specific date, time and place.

Measuring 42mm diameter, the ultra-light polished titanium case of the DB25 Starry Varius Aérolite is perfectly integrated open-worked lugs characteristic to the brand.

De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Aérolite

This new timepiece features a Roman numeral hour circle and an Arabic numeral minute track on a silvered disc, complemented by hand-polished steel hands identical to those already featured on the dial of the DB25 Starry Varius.

The watch is equipped with the DB2109V4 mechanical manual-winding calibre, entirely designed, developed and produced within the De Bethune workshops in L’Auberson, Switzerland.

De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Aérolite

The DB25 Starry Varius Aérolite incorporates an innovative and more efficient tourbillon mechanism with high frequency and fast rotation speed. The titanium and silicon tourbillon by De Bethune has a frequency of 36,000 vibrations/hour. Spinning on its axis every 30 seconds and comprising a total of 63 components, this tourbillon has an extraordinarily light carriage (0.18 grams, the lightest ever created in the industry)

The ultra-light De Bethune 30 seconds tourbillon is visible through the sapphire crystal case back.

De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Aérolite

The balance wheel, also visible on the back of the watch, benefits from the latest advances by De Bethune. With an adapted diameter, the patented titanium balance wheel is equipped with small white gold weights placed on the outside, which gives it a remarkable quality of inertia, reliability and regulation.

De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Aérolite

The De Bethune DB25VTM model features a patented, in-house balance spring. Its centre of gravity is maintained in the very centre by means of a flat curve affixed to the outside of the balance spring. Differences in the thickness of the blade further enhance the almost perfect precision of its concentric development. The numerous advantages include reduced thickness, improved adjustment of the concentricity quality, finer adjustment of the index (regulator) and no more need for its pins, while the shape of the curve even acts as a shock absorber in case of impacts.

The De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Aérolite will be limited to a production of five pieces per year.

Technical details

Model: De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Aérolite
Reference: DB25VTM

Movement
Calibre DB2109V4
Type: Mechanical manual-winding caliber
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Number of parts: 260
Jewelling: 43 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 4 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimized for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’ tourbillon in titanium – De Bethune Innovation (2008)
De Bethune Dead Beat Second – De Bethune Innovation (2011)
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Silver plate and barrel bridge cover polished
Hand-snailed barrels
Hand-polished, chamfered steel parts

Functions
Hours, Minutes, jumping seconds, 30’’ indicator via the ultra-light De Bethune tourbillon cage on case back

Dial
De Bethune star-studded sky in blued and polished meteorite with hand-fitted white gold pins depicting the stars
Milky Way patterns gilded with 24-carat gold leaf
Silver-toned hours and minutes ring
Hands in hand-polished steel
Central jumping seconds hand

Case
Material: Polished grade 5 titanium
Case diameter: 42 mm
Case thickness: 10.3 mm
Lugs: Integrated, hollowed lugs
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double antireflective coating
Case back: Open back, De Bethune 30 ” silicon/titanium Tourbillon, 36,000 vph
Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in grade 5 titanium

De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels

Released in a limited edition of 25 pieces, the DB28XP Steel Wheels watch by De Bethune fuses both architecture and technicality of the DB28 Steel Wheels movement with the DB28XP’s extra-flat titanium case.

The DB28 Steel Wheels was launched in 2018. It boasts an open worked dial to reveal the contemporary architecture of its movement. With the emblematic delta-shaped bridge and the moon phase at 6 o’clock, the DB28 Steel Wheels mesmerizes with different forms – hemispherical, concave, and spherical – for an architecturally dynamic result.

Introduced in 2020, the DB28XP is an ultrathin watch that celebrates 10 years of intense work and research, of a mechanical and aesthetic quest.

The new DB28XP Steel Wheels engages you to re-discover the art of De Bethune and its vision of watchmaking for tomorrow. A symbiosis between the thinness of the case, the components, the movement and the finishing – all of which resonate with each other in a spirit of great simplicity.

De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels

It’s about all the levels at which one experiences a timepiece, its layers, reliefs, the light playing with shadows and reflections. This De Bethune titanium watch reveals an architectural fusion of space, time and light that lingers long after the first glance.

A multitude of different shapes – hemispherical, concave, spherical, a sequence of microlight, satin, polished and blocked finishes allow a continuous interplay of light and shadow.

De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels

By playing with light and shadow, this dial adds depth and offers a more architectural and dynamic result. The watch as whole becomes more contemporary.

The distinctive architecture of Calibre 2115v11 is beautifully highlighted by the decision to trim down the mechanism, notably by open-working the barrels and ratchet wheels, as well as cutting out the heart of the central delta-shaped bridge. The latter is adorned with Microlight decoration, developed by De Bethune. The entire movement thus creates the impression of levitating.

De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels

The ratcheted chapter ring inspired by gear-wheel toothing surrounds 12 polished and blued spheres marking the hours and discreetly recall De Bethune’s signature. The hours and minutes hands in the center are made of blued titanium.

The hand-wound movement features De Bethune’s balance wheel, visible through the dial thanks to an opening at 6 o’clock. Its diameter is not too large, either. Made of titanium, it is equipped with small white gold weights placed on the outside to give remarkable qualities of inertia, reliability and regulating ability.

Then balance spring maintains its true centre of gravity with a flat terminal curve affixed to the outside of the balance-spring. Differences in the thickness of the blade add to the almost perfect precision of its concentric development. Among the many advantages: lower height, better adjustment of concentricity, finer adjustment of the racquet, no need for pins.

De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels

The curve’s shape even acts as a shock absorber in case of impact. Finally, the material’s internal structure remains intact since it has been neither stressed nor bent. It is through these numerous tried and tested developments, which are constantly revisited and further improved, that De Bethune has succeeded in increasing the power reserve by 20 percent, bringing it to a total of 6 days.

Equally visible – and geometrically positioned in relation to the calibre’s plate – is the exclusive triple shock absorption system designed to protect the whole assembly. Not only was De Bethune the first to design a bridge held on both sides, symmetrically, to ensure the balance is kept perfectly in position.

The two shock absorbers at each end supplement the shock absorber of the pendulum itself. Known as “triple pare-chute” or triple shock absorber, this system effectively absorbs and dampens violent shocks with springs instead of screws mounted on perfectly polished axes.

De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels

Dressed in a light weight titanium case, the DB28 Steel Wheels features De Bethune’s patented floating-lug system adjusting to wrist size and movements.

A more pronounced curvature, flowing with the lines of the wrist. The plate’s Microlight finish is echoed along the sides of the case band, rendered all the more meticulously in the absence of simple geometric forms.

The watch comes with an alligator strap with a titanium buckle.

Technical details

Model: De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels
Reference: DB28XPSW

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Power Reserve on the back

Movement
DB2115v11
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Technical features of calibre DB2115v11
Number of parts: 234
Jewelling: 36 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Titanium balance with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour
Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration

Dial
Polished titanium hours ring with polished blued titanium spherical hour-markers
Circular satin-brushed titanium minutes ring
Titanium Barrel Bridge and triangular central bridge guards with sandblasted and polished chamfered contours
Polished titanium dial base and microlight decoration
Open worked and hand sailed barrels
Polished blued titanium hands

Case
Polished grade 5 titanium with “microlight” case middle
Case diameter: 43 mm
Case thickness: 7.2 mm
Lugs: Polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: Sapphire (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Caseback: Screwed case back in polished grade 5 titanium opened on a linear power reserve indicator
Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining
Buckle: Grade 5 titanium buckle and pin

De Bethune DB28GS ‘JPS’

De Bethune’s new DB28GS ‘JPS’ watch takes inspiration from the Black and Gold color theme of John Player Special Team Lotus formula 1 cars of the 1970s.

Lotus JPS cars were also the first single-seaters to take full advantage of the major technological advances of the time, as well as research aerodynamics, and the first computer-assisted developments.

Fearsome and severe black paired with glorious gleaming gold made JPS a 1970s benchmark from which De Bethune drew inspiration for a new version of its DB28GS ‘JPS’ sports watch.

De Bethune DB28GS ‘JPS’

Just as the engineers of the F1 teams were looking to improve the aerodynamics of their single-seaters (and to increase the suction effect of the cars on the track), Denis Flageollet and his team also worked on improving the performance of the movement’s regulating organs. This notably involved enhancing the aerodynamics of the balance by pursuing the exact opposite objective of motor-racing in seeking to eliminate the suction effect that pushes it towards the mainplate.

De Bethune DB28GS ‘JPS’

In Formula 1 cars, DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) coatings reduce the friction of metal parts in their engines and thus improve performance. Denis Flageollet and his team have worked on the fantastic properties of DLC coating on hardened steel to improve the durability of watches’ black floating lugs and bezels.

Based on the observation that a sports watch must offer perfect legibility in all kinds of weather and every possible situation, the movement was developed from the outset in such a way as to light up the dial and movement from the inside. A white light source is thus produced by an entirely mechanical means that works on a dynamo-inspired principle.

De Bethune DB28GS ‘JPS’

A pusher at 6 o’clock serves to provide light on demand thanks to a gear train driven by the double barrel. By means of an original miniature dynamo, this gear train supplies the energy necessary to light up the face of the watch without affecting its operation and the energy necessary for the smooth running of its movement.

Measuring 44 mm in diameter and water-resistant to 105 metres (10 ATM), the DB28GS ‘JPS’ is no exception to the De Bethune rule of wearer comfort.

De Bethune DB28GS ‘JPS’

It owes this exceptional comfort to the combination of black zirconium and stainless steel; the softness of its hand-polished finish; the 12 o’clock position of its crown; and above all to the presence of the patented floating lug system with their famous cone-shaped tips that are more pro-eminent than ever, comprising polished yellow grade 5 titanium inserts recalling the side of the case. The result is a construction that adapts particularly well to the size of each wrist and the way it moves.

Technical details

Model name: DB28GS JPS
Reference: DB28GSV2JPS

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Power reserve indication between 9 and 10 o’clock, unidirectional rotating bezel, manual dial lighting

Movement
DB2080
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions), push button at 6 o’clock to activate the lightening
Technical features of calibre DB2080
Number of parts: 400
Jewelling: 51 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel- De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Dial lighting produced by an entirely mechanical means working on the dynamo principle powered by a twin barrel and manually controlled via a pusher – De Bethune Innovation (2019)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Mirror- yellow polished grade 5 titanium motion-work bridge
Plate and barrel bridge covers in black hand-smoothed grade 5 titanium and adorned with “Microlight engraving” – De Bethune Innovation (2007)
Hand-snailed barrels
Hand-polished and chamfered steel parts

Dial
Black Satin-brushed grade 5 titanium minutes dial with cut-out Arabic numerals
Black titanium hours and minutes hands with black polished steel insert and second yellow steel insert, luminescent tip
Polished steel seconds hand with luminescent tip
Power-reserve indicator between 9 and 10 o’clock

Bezel
Rotating bezel crystal with metallised minutes ring

Case
Case material: Black zirconium case middle with “Microlight” decoration, black brushed and polished harden stainless steel caseback and bezel
Case diameter: 44 mm
Case thickness: 12.8 mm
Lugs: Floating lugs in black brushed harden stainless steel with yellow polished grade 5 titanium insert – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: open in black polished harden stainless steel
Water resistance: 10 ATM

Strap
Natural rubber strap + 1 canvas / leather strap
Buckle: Folding clasp in black brushed harden stainless steel

Edition
Limited edition of 50 pieces

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar, reference DB25QPATIS4

During Dubai Watch Week 2021, De Bethune launched a new DB25QP Perpetual Calendar watch with a green guilloche dial and a new titanium case featuring integrated lugs.

The De Bethune perpetual calendar is tinged with poetry and combines the finesse of watchmaking with the precision mechanics of the Manufacture by bringing together moon phase, starry sky and perpetual calendar in an exceptional timepiece. Inspired by the drum, the round case with a diameter of 44 mm, with its fine and resolutely classic lines, is subtly enhanced by the hollowed-out horns characteristic of the DB25 collection.

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar, reference DB25QPATIS4

The finesse of the decorations and the purity of the green hand-guilloche dial, radiating in 12 sectors, underline the legibility of the dial, which is built up by the assembly of ring-shaped appliques delimiting the sub-dials and the hour circle. At 12 o’clock, a sphere in palladium and black oxidized zirconium sits in a sky set with gold stars, also incorporating a leap year indicator in a gold pastille in the starry sky at 12 o’clock. The date can be read on a dial located at 6 o’clock, while the windows indicating the day of the week and the month are located at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively.

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar, reference DB25QPATIS4

The round case of the new DB25QP retains the harmonious lines that contributed to the success of the original DB25QP but is offered for the first time in titanium. This further enhances the practicality and comfort of this timepiece.

Developed in the Manufacture’s Haute Horlogerie workshops in Sainte Croix in the Swiss Jura, the automatic DB2324 caliber benefits from De Bethune’s research and technology know how. It incorporates a perpetual calendar, a spherical moon indicating the moon phases with a precision of 1 day/122 years, a self-regulating double barrel, a triple pare-chute system and a titanium/grey gold balance.

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar, reference DB25QPATIS4

A sapphire caseback allows one to admire the complexity of the movement as well as the refinement of its finishing: ¾ platinum bridge with star decoration, sandblasted and hand-colored, blued titanium balance bridge and oscillating weight arm, hand-colored white gold weight, hand-beveled and mirror-polished steels.

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar, reference DB25QPATIS4

This new perpetual calendar comes with a green textile strap with a polished titanium buckle and pin. A second leather strap accompanies it. A perfect illustration of the technical and aesthetic know-how of the Manufacture, this new reference DB25QPATIS4 is destined to replace all the DB25QPs previously presented in the current De Bethune collection.

Technical details


De Bethune Dream Watch 5 Tourbillon ‘Season 1’ Limited Edition

De Bethune presents Dream Watch 5 Tourbillon ‘Season 1’, a limited edition series created in collaboration with American rap star Swizz Beatz. Entirely themed around the concepts of light and transparency, this sophisticated micro-mechanical marvel combines mastery of sapphire crystal, skilled workmanship in titanium, and horological virtuosity. Only 10 of these timepieces will be produced.

De Bethune Dream Watch 5 Tourbillon ‘Season 1’ Limited Edition

In 2020, Swizz Beatz contacted the Swiss watch manufacturer to create a totally different Dream Watch 5. The design of this watch was to be fully in line with the brand’s existing achievements, yet at the same time challenging them to create a singular, refined and sophisticated timepiece that would remain user-friendly and easily legible, based on materials and construction typifying De Bethune’s quest for contemporary aestheticism.

The mission included a fresh approach to the use of sapphire crystal; blued titanium as the keystone; a movement with multiple reflections and finishes finally revealed to the observer’s admiring gaze.

Dream Watch 5 derives its distinctive shape from its predecessors, from the bridge of Dream Watch 1 to the case of Dream Watch 4, and is thus part of ongoing research into shapes, materials and colours. With each new creation, the design is refined in the direction of a curved deltoid motif, a major component of the aesthetics of the collection and more generally of De Bethune watches.

De Bethune has been a pioneer in the use of sapphire crystal, generally used in watchmaking to produce glasses or cases – and always in constant, regular, flat or spherical shapes. As early as 2008, De Bethune produced the first sapphire crystal hands, encircled by blued titanium, to be fitted on the DB26QP. This was followed by the production of movement components, including the famous delta bridge of the DB28 Steel Wheel movement, ingeniously complemented by two small barrel covers, also made of sapphire crystal.

De Bethune Dream Watch 5 Tourbillon ‘Season 1’ Limited Edition

Far from simply carving the case from a single block of sapphire using customary traditional methods, Denis Flageollet endeavoured to adapt the sapphire to the watch’s titanium case. They inserted no less than seven different sapphire parts – each crafted with unique curves and proportions – which would then be perfectly embedded into the blued polished titanium exoskeleton. Aesthetically, the blue-tinted sapphire matches the blued titanium of the case middle and the cold light emanating from it magnifies the shimmer of the movement finishes.

De Bethune Dream Watch 5 Tourbillon ‘Season 1’ Limited Edition

The dial side reveals the small two-tone sphere indicating the moon phases. Composed of two assembled and polished half-spheres in blued steel and palladium, it guides the eye towards the minimalist digital display of the hours and minutes, visible through a hand-cut cabochon-shaped crystal.

On the back of the timepiece, the blue sapphire crystal provides more visibility to the DB2149 calibre and its tourbillon, fully revealed for the very first time.

De Bethune Dream Watch 5 Tourbillon ‘Season 1’ Limited Edition

The Dream Watch 5 Tourbillon ‘Season 1’ is equipped with a mechanical hand-wound DB2149 movement with a high-speed tourbillon developed by De Bethune. Ultra-light at a mere 0.18 grams for 63 components and beating time to the nearest tenth of a second, it makes a complete revolution in 30 seconds.

The calibre houses a titanium balance-wheel encircled by a patented white gold ring, a balance-spring featuring an in-house developed and patented De Bethune terminal curve, and a silicon escape-wheel oscillating at a rate 36,000 vibrations per hour. The in-house developed self-regulating twin barrel ensures constant torque for the calibre. All this has enabled the movement to gain 20% in terms of power reserve.

The time can be read off in digital format through a trapeze-shaped sapphire aperture with a jumping hours disc and another trailing minutes disc. The centre displays the regular rotation of the spherical moon phase, a patented complication so accurate that it requires adjustment by lunar day only every 1,112 years. The watch is wound and set by means of a crown adorned with a blue cabochon-cut sapphire.

The mirror-polishing of the movement components creates an astonishing play on light. Inside the case, Swiss engraver Michèle Rothen carried out a dint craftsmanship involving a blend of engraving and micro-sculpture. She retouched each surface state, each micro-detail and each relief in order to “lift” the design and thus perfect the whole, enabling it to catch the light even more generously.

Since the foundation of the brand, blue color has been intimately associated with the technical and aesthetic research and development of the maison. The Dream Watch 5 Tourbillon ‘Season 1’ will be a single-colour version. The radical and mesmerising blue of the different materials stems from artisanal and natural treatments specific to each.

Technical details

Name: DW5 Tourbillon ‘Season 1’
Reference: DW5TSB

Edition
10-piece limited edition

Functions
Hours, minutes, central spherical moon-phase indication, 30-minute indication on the ultra-light silicon and titanium De Bethune tourbillon cage appearing on the back

Movement
DB2149
Type: Mechanical hand-wound
Adjustments: By means of the crown adorned with a blue cabochon-cut sapphire
Three positions for winding, the spherical moon phase and timesetting
Number of components: 356
Jewelling: 35 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: Four days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune innovation (2004)
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations/hour
Decorations: Hand-crafted finishes and decorations

Specific characteristics
Titanium balance-wheel with white gold inserts – De Bethune patent (2016)
De Bethune balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune patent (2006)
Silicon escape-wheel
Spherical moon-phase display accurate to within one lunar day every 1,112 years – De Bethune patent (2004)
De Bethune ultra-light silicon and titanium 30-second tourbillon – De Bethune innovation (2008)

Displays
Jumping-hour aperture at 3 o’clock
Minutes indication on a dragging rotating disc
Palladium and flame-blued steel spherical moon-phase indication accurate to within one lunar day every 1,112 years – De Bethune patent (2004)

Dial
Blued grade 5 titanium aperture frame

Case
Ogive-shaped in hand-polished and blued grade 5 titanium, open-worked with sapphire blue inserts and hand-engraved motifs
Case diameter: Length 58 mm – width 47 mm
Case thickness: 17 mm
Crown: Cabochon-cut blue sapphire
Glass: Hardened mineral
Caseback: Screw-in back in polished and blued grade 5 titanium, open-worked with blue sapphire inserts and opening onto the ultra-thin silicon and titanium De Bethune tourbillon performing one rotation every 30 seconds – De Bethune innovation (2008)
Water resistance: 3 ATM, equivalent to 30 metres

Strap
Blue canvas/leather with an additional rubber strap
Buckle: Titanium with polished and blued titanium pin buckle

DE BETHUNE x VOUTILAINEN Kind of Magic for Only Watch 2021

Specially created for the Only Watch 2021 charity auction, this unique timepiece reflects the enchanting alliance between two watchmakers, Denis Flageollet and Kari Voutilainen, based on mutual respect, a common vision of watchmaking and a unique sense of independence.

DE BETHUNE x VOUTILAINEN Kind of Magic for Only Watch 2021

Equipped with two dials, this perfectly reversible watch embodies the union between two distinct but identical watchmaking worlds.

DE BETHUNE x VOUTILAINEN Kind of Magic for Only Watch 2021

This one-of-a-kind horological marvel is made of grade 5 titanium. The movement has a power reserve of 4 days.

DE BETHUNE x VOUTILAINEN Kind of Magic for Only Watch 2021

Technical details

Model: Kind of Magic for Only Watch 2021

Case
Polished grade 5 titanium
43.3mm diameter

Dial
Black hour ring with rose gold index, black minutes dial with rose gold colour transfer

Display
Hand-polished and blued titanium hours and minutes indicators
Peripheral minutes indication
Hours indication centered on balance wheel

Movement
Calibre OW21: Dual front and back display of hours and minute, jumping seconds
Isogone display
Dead Beat Second
4 days power reserve, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel
Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimized for temperature differences and air penetration
Balance-spring with flat terminal curve
Silicon escape wheel

Bracelet
Extra-supple alligator, leather lining

De Bethune DW5 Empreinte

The new DW5 Empreinte, a one-of-a-kind creation belonging to the Maestri’art collection, stems from collaboration between Denis Flageollet, founder and master-watchmaker of De Bethune and Clara Martin, designer and winner of the first De Bethune/ECAL prize in 2019.

The challenge was to find a new way of developing the colour black which becomes matter. The black colour has been frequently used by Denis Flageollet for many De Bethune models and is an omnipresent theme in Clara Martin’s work. Empreinte thus marks the culmination of a lengthy process of research, experimentation and sharing know-how between the two designers.

The pictural research Empreinte (imprint)

As a designer Clara Martin is developing an investigation into black and the way in which light is drawn. She is expanding this research through graphic experiments, textures and shapes that she classifies by creating a taxonomy. This method of classification allows her to combine her eclectic treatments of black in order to create objects that “sum up” her research.

De Bethune DW5 Empreinte watch

Her objective with these objects is to change the current perception and connotations of the colour black, which she no longer treats as such, but as a material, regarding it as “material-colour”. She strives to prove that this colour is much more powerful and sensitive than we think. It is both incredibly demanding and a source of freedom and infinite projection.

After a long period of research and constant dialogue with the De Bethune workshops, solutions were implemented to soften the material and redesign the Dream Watch 5, while retaining its identity.

The Empreinte (stamp) of technical innovation

With the DW5 Empreinte, De Bethune examines the notion of time through a poetic object that defies any prejudices regarding black and metal. To divert their potentially pejorative symbolism, an unexpected watch was created, vulnerable through its delicacy and evoking a meditative state.

De Bethune DW5 Empreinte

Denis Flageollet, with his experience of blackened metal and his work on the bluing of titanium, took up the technical challenge imposed by the graphic choice of linking for the first time the very different processes of oxidation of titanium in order to achieve textured, mottled blue and black patterns.

The Empreinte (impression) left on the material

Engraver Michèle Rothen exercises her craft with peerless meticulous care. In this latest Dream Watch, she has surpassed herself in expressing her skills through the quality of structures serving to create an almost volume-like expression of pictural research.

De Bethune DW5 Empreinte

This involved infinitely accurate craftsmanship, coupled with acknowledged top-flight artistic talent. Working with this material was a particularly arduous task on this model given the considerable complexity of engraving titanium (a metal even tougher than steel). The concentration of so many different tracings is a feat in itself.

Playing with these superimpositions represents an additional challenge. It is all about making titanium – a material of unequalled strength and coldness – tender and sensitive. About subtly modifying each surface state, each micro-detail, each depth effect, in such a way as to “enhance” the graphic research. As if redrawing the model one last time.

De Bethune DW5 Empreinte watch caseback

The caseback features a more restrained approach focused on drawing out and accentuating the structural lines of the watch’s volume.

The legendary Empreinte (mark) made by Pierre Soulages

Pierre Soulages is a great French master painter who has dedicated his life to obstinately working on black and on light. At over 101 years of age, the French artist continues his research in his studio in the south of France. He was the first artist in the world to modulate and play with volumes, shades and shimmering colours in order to redirect light according to a unique rhythm and movement in each of his works.

According to Pierre Soulages, “Black is the most vehement way to bring light into being”, as he proves with his “outrenoir” (beyond black) creations, a series of purely black paintings that captivate observers by the power and fragility of these works sometimes measuring several metres high.

When Clara Martin came face to face with one of these “outrenoir” masterpieces, she wondered whether it was possible to convey this impression not through a large-scale bas-relief work of art but instead through functional objects. This is where she began her work of exploring the drawing of light through black.

De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius

De Bethune presents DB25GMT Starry Varius, a slim and elegant traveller’s watch that combines traditional expertise with cutting-edge technology.

The new DB25GMT Starry Varius watch incorporates all the inherent codes of the DB25 Starry Varius collection, namely a polished grade 5 titanium case with a 42 mm diameter, a starry sky accompanied by its Milky Way, perfectly integrated open-worked lugs, and a screw-down sapphire caseback providing a glimpse of the movement.

De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius

Starting from the centre, the dial indicates the date on the first disc with the help of its jumping date hand, which can be adjusted via a corrector at 6 o’clock. The hours of the first 24-hour time zone (home or reference time) are marked by the microsphere in a mysterious manner, as it appears to be floating weightless in its corridor.

This function can be set in both directions (clockwise/counter-clockwise) via the crown. Local time, i.e. the second time zone, is indicated by the blued hands whose curvature follows the relief of the dial. The minutes hand naturally remains coordinated with the reference time, while the hours hand indicates the local time thanks to the second time zone. Local time can also be set by the crown, in both directions.

De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius

Despite its complex construction, the mechanical GMT movement is very simple to use, with concentrically arranged functions. First of all, the owner uses the crown to set his reference time, known as home time, which is indicated by the microsphere on the 24-hour dial.

Representing De Bethune’s technical signature since its development of the three dimensional moon-phase display, this microsphere indicates day and night thanks to its two halves: one blue and the other pink. It gradually turns at 6am and 6pm, thereby imitating sunrise and sunset. Secondly, the wearer sets his second time zone by means of the hours hand which is controlled via the crown pulled out to the second position.

De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius

In the centre of the curved dial, you can view a poetic vision of the sky by day and by night. A polished pink gold sun in the centre of a microlight shines over half the disc, while the celestial vault is delicately outlined on the blued polished titanium section. The vision provided is of a miniature night sky, dotted with a multitude of small white gold pins delicately and individually driven into a blued titanium dial. The Milky Way is then hand-crafted using micro laser strokes and 24-carat gold leaf.

De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius

Visible through the sapphire caseback, the reverse side of the movement reveals the latest titanium balance with white gold inlays. This organ has the ability to neutralise the effects of temperature variations thanks to its interaction with the balance spring featuring the “De Bethune” flat terminal curve. Its aerodynamics has also been worked on so as to ensure minimal air resistance. The escape-wheel is made of silicon both for the lightness of the material and to increase the power of the calibre.

The regulator is held in place by a triple pare-chute system which combines a titanium bridge integrating two jewels held in place by a leaf-spring system pressing on the jewels. The two barrels, which are partially visible, have a five-day power reserve thanks to a self-regulating energy mechanism.

This timepiece is equipped with the latest hand-wound Calibre DB2507. This is the 29th movement from De Bethune, which once again demonstrates bold technical mastery and expertise by fitting a GMT movement into a Starry Varius case and reproducing a miniature starry sky. The complication and its display have been entirely redesigned with a view to optimising legibility and operating convenience, thereby ideally meeting travellers’ expectations.

De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk Limited Edition (with Green Dial)

De Bethune presents a green dial version of its DB27 Titan Hawk. Available in a limited edition of 10 numbered pieces, this new edition features a 43 mm case in grade 5 titanium and a green microlight dial with sandblasted steel minute hands with hand-polished steel tips.

De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk Limited Edition (with Green Dial)

Revived in 2018 with the new AUTOV2 self-winding movement, the DB27 Titan Hawk draws its inspiration from the design and technology of its predecessors while adding an innovative touch.

At Basel-world 2018, the brand unveiled DB27 Titan Hawk in two dial versions: silver-toned or blue. In 2021, De Bethune welcomes a green dial version.

De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk Limited Edition (with Green Dial)

The new DB27 Titan Hawk with green dial is equipped with the latest AUTOV2 caliber, hour, minute, second, which features a single barrel providing 60 hours of power reserve. The last titanium balance with white gold inserts remains visible on the back of the watch. Developed in-house, the movement is equipped with an optimized oscillating weight made of titanium and tungsten alloy.

De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk Limited Edition (with Green Dial)

Each detail is rethought and reworked to find the elegance and readability of an object above all functional. Juxtaposing Roman numerals and Arabic numerals, the reading of the time is given around rings located at the periphery of the dial. The time display on the green dial is punctuated by sandblasted steel hands with hand-polished white tips.

The new DB27 Titan Hawk timepiece is accompanied by a khaki green canvas strap. The watch boasts all the De Bethune codes: the patented mobile lugs, the crown at 12 o’clock, a microlight decoration on the middle and the green microlight dial.

Technical details

Model: DB27 TITAN HAWK
Reference: DB27TIS4V2ww

Functions
Hours, Minutes, seconds

Movement
AUTOV2
Type: Mechanical self-winding movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time (2 positions)
Number of parts: 217
Jewelling: 29 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 60 hours
Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, De Bethune Patent (2004) improved settings qualities
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve, De Bethune Patent (2006)
Steel escape wheel
Optimized oscillating weight in titanium and alloy of tungsten
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration

Display
Hours and minutes hands in sandblasted steel with white hand
Polished steel ends Seconds hand in hand-polished steel

Dial
Green microlight
Silver-toned chapter ring with Roman numerals
Silver-toned minutes circle with Arabic numerals placed around the rim of the dial

Case
Case material: Polished grade 5 titanium, with middle microlight
Case diameter: 43 mm
Case thickness: 9 mm
Lugs: Short floating lugs in brushed grade 5 titanium, De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (hardness of 1800 Vickers) with double antireflective coating
Case back: Open in brushed grade 5 titanium
Sapphire crystal (hardness of 1800 Vickers) with double antireflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Canvas
Buckle: Pin buckle in grade 5 titanium

Edition
Limited edition of 10 numbered pieces

De Bethune DB28XP Meteorite Limited Edition

De Bethune presents a new version of its iconic “DB28XP” watch. Limited to ten numbered pieces, this timepiece has a black zirconium case and a meteorite dial featuring distinctive geometric shapes.

Believed to have struck planet Earth more than one million years BCE, somewhere between Finland and Sweden on the banks of the Muniono River, Muonionalusta Meteorite is probably the world’s oldest known meteorite to date. The first fragment was discovered in Sweden, in 1906. Composed mainly of iron and nickel, it is distinguished by the perfectly geometrical lines of its 60° angle cross-hatched “Widmanstätten” pattern.

De Bethune DB28XP Meteorite Limited Edition

The dial of the DB28XP Meteorite is adorned with this ancestral stone. A metal alloy that endows the dial with a distinctive texture, along with geometrical patterns aligned in a precise way that makes each timepiece special and unique.

De Bethune DB28XP Meteorite Limited Edition

De Bethune’s mastery of the thermal oxidation of metals has once again enabled it to raise the level of complexity by creating a starry sky accompanied by its Milky Way on a previously blued meteorite dial. This azure shade results from the heat released by the chemical reactions of the heated meteorite.

Dotted across this blue dial surface is a multitude of small white gold pins, delicately driven in between the different shapes and thicknesses of the octahedral geometrical structures. Like tiny suspended marbles, these glittering flashes of light endow the celestial vault with its aura of timeless depth. In addition to bringing a unique fragment of space to the wrist, each sky is different: the customer can choose a given constellation, according to a precise sky map, at a specific date, time and place.

De Bethune DB28XP Meteorite Limited Edition

Alongside its classically inspired round, ultra-thin crown at 12 o’clock and its hunter-type back typical of pocket watches, the DB28XP Meteorite’s ultra-light, polished black zirconium case with patented floating lugs nevertheless asserts the watch’s modern and futuristic character.

The DB28XP Meteorite features the distinctive graphic codes of the Manufacture, with a zirconium hour circle, minutes ring bearing Arabic numerals and the discreet De Bethune signature at 12 o’clock, complemented by pink gold hands identical to those on the DB28XP Starry Sky dial. The design of the Microlight engraving and the slenderness of the case reflect De Bethune’s contemporary expression of watchmaking art.

De Bethune DB28XP Meteorite Limited Edition

Stemming from De Bethune’s research into materials and new processes, the use of zirconium for the case represents a natural and sustainable alternative for achieving a black colour. The hardness of the metal and its stable oxidation, which does not deteriorate at room temperatures, are key assets in guaranteeing the resistance and durability of a watch exterior.

The hand-wound movement is equipped with the De Bethune balance, visible through the 6 o’clock dial aperture. It represents the outcome of a consistent physical and mathematical approach to improving its operation undertaken by De Bethune. It is equipped with the latest technical advances, including an adjusted diameter, the use of titanium, as well as small white gold weights placed around the rim and endowing it with remarkable inertia, reliability and regulating properties.

De Bethune DB28XP Meteorite Limited Edition

De Bethune has equipped this model with its very own balance spring. Its centre of gravity is maintained in the very centre by means of a flat curve affixed to the outside of the balance spring. Differences in the thickness of the blade further enhance the almost perfect precision of its concentric development. The numerous advantages include reduced thickness, improved adjustment of the concentricity quality, finer adjustment of the index (regulator) and no more need for its pins, while the shape of the curve even acts as a shock absorber in case of impacts.

Technical details

Model Name: DB28XP Meteorite
Reference: DB28XPZM

Function
Hours, Minutes

Movement
DB2115v7
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Technical features of calibre DB2115v7
Number of parts: 175
Jewelling: 27 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel, De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Titanium balance with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
De Bethune balance-spring with flat terminal curve De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour
Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration

Dial
Titanium dial with “microlight” decoration – De Bethune Innovation (2007)
Anthracite hours ring with transferred Arabic numerals in pink
Transferred circular satin-brushed titanium minutes ring
Starry sky with white gold stars
Dial featuring an opening revealing the balance, surrounded by a chamfered blue polished steel rim
Polished pink gold hands

Case
Case material: Mat anthracite zirconium with “microlight” case middle
Case diameter: 43 mm
Case thickness: 7.2 mm
Lugs: Mat anthracite zirconium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: Sapphire (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Caseback: Solid, in mat anthracite zirconium; Engraved ring in blued circular satin-finish titanium; Mat anthracite zirconium plate with “microlight” decoration and De Bethune logo
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining
Buckle: Mat anthracite zirconium buckle and pin

De Bethune DB Kind of Two Tourbillon

De Bethune presents the DB Kind of Two Tourbillon, a high complication watch endowed with two faces.

The DB Kind of Two Tourbillon is perfectly reversible and can be worn on either side according to the mood of the moment. This model houses a highly sophisticated mechanism based on a complex system of gears and pinions arranged on the front or back of the watch, and which enables the hands to turn in the right direction, regardless of the dial chosen.

De Bethune DB Kind of Two Tourbillon

The front side of the DB Kind of Two Tourbillon displays a dial featuring a sleek, contemporary design, with central hours and minutes hands as well as a tourbillon at 6 o’clock, complete with a 30-second indication.

De Bethune DB Kind of Two Tourbillon

Extensive work has been done on integrating polished, curved shapes, matt or glossy components, different thicknesses and levels, thereby creating a sensation of ample space and optimal volume, given the minimum height available for a tourbillon watch. A new type of deltoid-shaped bridge – this time perfectly symmetrical – is positioned in the centre, like an isosceles triangle that contributes to the overall sense of harmony.

De Bethune DB Kind of Two TourbillonThe other side reveals a dial based on more traditional aesthetic inspiration, with a finely hand-guilloché central part surrounded by the numerals already featured on the dials of De Bethune models such as the DB8 and DB10. The tourbillon with its seconds has vanished, and on this face the hours, minutes and more surprisingly the seconds hands are all centrally positioned.

Every detail has been taken into consideration. Easy to use, yet highly complex, the system of floating lugs lends itself particularly well to the “pivoting” of the case.

Redesigned for the occasion, these elements have been equipped on each side with an ingenious little rotating mechanism made up of 28 components. For reliability purposes, they are manufactured in stainless materials such as surgical steel or titanium, thus enabling them to withstand the external aggressions of water, humidity, temperature variations and continuous contact with the skin.
Thanks to a cam, a small “notch” allows the watch case to be instinctively and perfectly positioned in line with the floating lugs. The round case rotates on its central axis and can be positioned, front or back, in a delightfully easy, smooth and entirely natural way.

Inherently suited to a swivel watch, the DB29’s case middle is perfectly symmetrical shape offers a beautiful balance with the floating lugs and its elegant crown totally integrated at 12 o’clock (or 6 o’clock depending on the side chosen).

All in all, with its elegant design, the combination of contemporary mechanics with a more traditional face, as well as the meticulous care devoted to details, legibility and comfort, the DB Kind of Two Tourbillon perfectly illustrates one of the great principles of the Manufacture De Bethune: reinterpreting grand traditions with a contemporary vision of the horological object, thereby opening up a new field of expression that is refined and sophisticated while preserving user-friendliness and simple read-off.

De Bethune DB28GS “Yellow Submarine”

The independent Geneva watch maker De Bethune presents DB28GS “Yellow Submarine”, a new diving watch in a specially developed titanium that reflects the colors of fire.

In 2019, De Bethune developed a warm colored titanium with natural shades of amber and flame blonde. De Bethune has chosen this unique material to create bezel, caseback, lugs, dial, hands and buckle of the new DB28GS “Yellow Submarine” watch. The case middle is made from Black zirconium.

De Bethune DB28GS “Yellow Submarine”

Available in a limited edition of 25 pieces, the DB28GS “Yellow Submarine” was designed and developed to be a resolutely sporty watch. Based on the observation that a sports watch must be perfectly readable in any kind of weather and every possible situation, a very special and ingenious lighting system has been developed.

Therefore, to illuminate the watch and the movement from the inside, a light source is produced by a fully mechanical means that works on the dynamo principle. A pusher located at 6 o’clock activates a small gear train driven by the twin barrel. This gear train, by means of a miniature dynamo, provides the necessary energy for lighting the watch. A few seconds of light is more than enough to read the time, even in the middle of the night or in the abyssal depths of the ocean.

In modern diving watches, the rotating bezel serves to enable accurate calculation of immersion time, as well as the transition through various decompression stops. Generally, all the numerals relating to the minutes counter are indicated on the bezel, which tends to create a more crowded visual effect. For the DB28GS “Yellow Submarine”, these indications appear on the sapphire crystal driven by the bezel. This developed in the workshops of the Manufacture in L’Auberson enables the model to remain elegantly slender and instils a pleasing casual chic aesthetic.

De Bethune DB28GS “Yellow Submarine”

The watch houses the in-house DB2080 mechanical movement. Hand-wound, with central seconds and a five-day power reserve indicated on the dial, the movement is equipped with a high-tech in-house-made balance wheel. The presence of the titanium / white gold balance wheel and balance-spring with flat terminal curve ensures an ideal mass / inertia ratio for an optimal frequency of 28,800 vph suitable for wristwatches.

It is endowed with numerous properties – such as optimised efficiency, reliability, regulating quality, thermo-compensation, anti-magnetism – leading to concrete results, since De Bethune has already improved the efficiency of its sprung-balance-escapement ensemble by achieving a 20% increase in power reserve.

The calibre is also equipped with the triple pare chute system. De Bethune was not only the first to design a bridge symmetrical held on both sides and thus serving to maintain the balance wheel perfectly in position, but also added two shock absorbers on either end as well as that of the balance wheel itself.

De Bethune DB28GS “Yellow Submarine”

Water-resistant to 105 metres (10 ATM), the DB28GS “Yellow Submarine” is no exception to the strict rule of wearer comfort that De Bethune applies to its models in general and particularly to the DB28 collection. This exceptional comfort stems from a combination of the light feel of the titanium case, the softness of its hand-polished finish, the 12 o’clock crown position and above all the presence of the patented system of floating lugs that adapt to wrist size and movements.

The model is delivered with two straps: a canvas version and a striated natural rubber iteration with titanium folding clasp.

Technical details

Model: DB28GS “Yellow Submarine”
Reference: DB28GSV2Y

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Power reserve indication between 9 and 10 o’clock, unidirectional rotating bezel, manual dial lighting

Movement
DB2080 Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions), push button at 6 o’clock to activate the lightening
Technical features of calibre DB2080
Number of parts: 400
Jewelling: 51 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Specificities: Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Dial lighting produced by an entirely mechanical means working on the dynamo principle powered by a twin barrel and manually controlled via a pusher- De Bethune Innovation (2019)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Mirror- polished yellow grade 5 titanium motion-work bridge
Plate and barrel bridge covers in hand-smoothed yellow grade 5 titanium and adorned with “Microlight engraving” – De Bethune Innovation (2007)
Hand-snailed barrels
Hand-polished and chamfered steel parts

Display
Yellow titanium hours and minutes hand with inserts, luminescent tip
Yellow titanium sandblasted by hand minute hand, luminescent tip
Polished steel seconds hand with luminescent tip
Power-reserve indicator between 9 and 10 o’clock

Dial
Satin-brushed and yellow grade 5 titanium minutes dial with cut-out Arabic numerals
Rotating bezel crystal with metallised minutes ring

Case
Black zirconium case middle with “Microlight” decoration, yellow brushed grade 5 titanium caseback and bezel
Diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 12.8 mm
Floating lugs in yellow brushed grade 5 titanium with yellow polished grade 5 titanium inserts – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: open in yellow brushed grade 5 titanium
Water resistance: 10 ATM

Strap
Natural rubber strap + 1 canvas / leather strap
Buckle: Folding clasp + pin buckle in yellow brushed grade 5 titanium

De Bethune DW5 Cempasúchil

As a tribute to Día de Muertos (the Day of the Dead) celebration in Mexico, De Bethune has created DW5 Cempasúchil, a one-of-a-kind creation from the brand’s Maestri’art Collection.

The De Bethune DW5 Cempasúchil timepiece was co-created by Denis Flageollet (master watchmaker and founder of De Bethune) and Michèle Rothen, a talented Swiss Art engraver. This unique timepiece has drawn its artistic inspiration from the engravings of José Guadalupe Posada (1852-1913), the legendary Mexican engraver and chisel virtuoso.

De Bethune DW5 Cempasúchil

Inscribed in 2008 on the UNESCO’s Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, EL Día de los Muertos (the Day of the Dead) is the highlight of the Latin American festivities, with rivers of orange petals from the bouquets of Cempasúchil blossoms that line alleys and bathe them in the intense scent of marigolds, guiding the spirits of the deceased on their journey home.

Cempasúchil is the name of Mexican marigold (also known as Aztec marigold) flower. Traditionally, Mexicans refer marigold as La Flor de los Muertos (the flower of the dead) and since ancient times it has been used in the Día de Muertos celebrations. According to beliefs, the petals of the Cempasúchil flower (marigold) retain the warmth of the sun and embody the divine.

De Bethune DW5 Cempasúchil

The name stems from Cempohualxochitl, meaning ‘twenty flowers’ in Nahuatl, the indigenous language of the Aztecs who used it for decoration at burials. The eternal love of Xochitl, materialized by this flower, could heal diseases because it was believed they come from sadness or fear, and true love can heal all.

There have been and are many watches on the subject of skulls and the Day of the Dead, but none of them inspired by the engraving of Mexican artist José Guadalupe Posada.

Posada was an engraving genius and his work has become part of the national heritage of Mexico, especially since the centenary of his death in 2013. The engraver of calaveras (‘skulls’ in Spanish) offers images of skeletons more alive than the living. At the heart of his creations, the queens of the festival, the calaveras, are everywhere.

De Bethune DW5 Cempasúchil

Smiling skulls, hilarious skeletons coquettishly prancing about in top hats and boaters, Posada’s distinctive eye and hand capture an imagery that overflows with life. With more than 15,000 catalogued engravings, his legacy remains immense. On the exterior of the DW5 Cempasúchil watch, the 19th century artwork of Posada is interpreted with the contemporary talent of Swiss Art engraver Michèle Rothen, working in close concert with Denis Flageollet.

Where Posada etched his calaveras on flat zinc plates, Denis Flageollet and Michèle Rothen miniaturize them to the extreme, only to give them more relief and volume. On the outside of the timepiece, the watchmaker recreates a phantasmagorical world inspired by the engravings by Posada. Among these engravings, standing above the time display window is La Calavera Catrina (Catrina Ljazmun a Calavera Garbancera), the famous Calavera artwork of Posada and an icon of the Mexican Día de Muertos.

Reaching beyond the challenge of a contemporary reinterpretation of the Mexican artist’s engravings, Denis Flageollet and Michèle Rothen introduce the additional technical challenges of not only working with a titanium case, but also of having it flame-blued, hand-engraved, and decorated for the first time with delicate gold inserts, as well as engraved to magnify the Cempasúchil blossoms. And to take the level of difficulty a few notches higher still, several different types of 18K gold alloy are used.

White gold, yellow gold, rose gold, green gold (an 18K gold combined with a smidgeon of silver), and a new ‘marbled’ gold (a blend of white gold, rose gold and yellow gold): Denis Flageollet’s unrivalled knowhow is given free rein at De Bethune’s own foundry in Sainte Croix, enabling him to create new shades of the precious metal to underline the piece’s floral elements. Thanks to a new technique developed in his workshop, the metals seem to naturally harmonize and join together. The multiple levels and shades of the decoration offer a magnificent and subtle visual depth accentuated by the engraved parts.

You will also notice a small two-colored sphere that indicates the moon phases. Composed of two hemispheres, joined and polished, one of blued steel and the other of palladium, the sphere guides the eye to the minimalist digital hours and minutes display, visible through a hand-cut crystal cabochon whose making requires rare mastery.

Between engraving and micro-sculpture, Michèle Rothen’s work surpasses all standards. Infinite and infinitesimal precision coupled with a Swiss artistic talent that is recognized as among the best. Engraving was particularly difficult on this piece because titanium already presents a challenge in itself. Combining it with gold was an insane challenge.

De Bethune DW5 Cempasúchil

Engraving them together added yet another degree of difficulty. First, because of the challenge of getting two diametrically opposed metals to coexist: strong and stiff titanium with soft and malleable gold. Second, because the temperatures at which the two metals can be worked are very different.

To make this timepiece, Denis Flageollet used titanium that he patiently machined, preparing it for the gold inserts, until he obtained the perfect fit for the piece, working it not only before the engraving stage, but also again afterwards, then in the fire to tint it, then on the workbench to polish it by hand, revisiting the state of the metal surfaces at each stage, each microscopic detail, each relief, even sparing some parts to ‘lift’ the design as a means of perfecting the whole.

De Bethune DW5 Cempasúchil

Also made of titanium and 18K gold, the back of the watch is adorned with an immense skull, ‘another true calavera’ decorated with multiple flowers, with two large eye sockets, through one of which the movement’s balance-spring can be admired.

Technical details

Model: Maestri’Art DW5 Cempasúchil
Reference: DW5

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Spherical moon-phase indication

Movement
Calibre DB2144V2
Mechanical hand-wound movement
Number of parts: 355
Jewelling: 32 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Silicon annular balance encircled by a white gold – De Bethune Patent (2010)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Spherical moon-phase indication with an accuracy of one lunar day every 1112 years – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Frequency: 28’800 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration
Adjustment: Spherical moon-phase adjustment and setting the time by means of the crown, adorned by 1 carat rubies (3 positions)

Display
Jumping-hour aperture at 3 o’clock in blued titanium
Analogue minutes indicator on a dragging rotating disc
Spherical moon-phase indication in palladium and flamed blued steel with an accuracy of one lunar day every 1112 years at 6 o’clock – De Bethune Patent (2004)

Dial
Frame of the jumping-hour aperture in blued grade 5 titanium

Case
Delta shaped case in colored titanium with gold 18K inserts hand-engraved
Diameter: Length 58 mm – width 47 mm
Case thickness: 16 mm
Crystal: Curved hard-mineral crystal cut by hand
Case back: Closed and screwed down case back in colored titanium with gold inserts with aperture on balance wheel
Hard-mineral crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double antireflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Karung leather bracelet, hand sewn with pin buckle
Buckle: Pin in colored titanium, hand engraved and buckle in rose gold

De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon

During the Geneva Watch Days event in August 2020, Swiss luxury watch brand De Bethune unveiled the iconic DB28 Steel Wheels watch for the first time equipped with a tourbillon. The movement’s delta bridge and two barrel covers are made of sapphire crystal.

A limited edition of only 10 pieces, the DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon celebrates the 10th anniversary of the DB28 collection. It pays tribute to the iconic watch family by ably perpetuating the heritage of its predecessors: perfect balance, contemporary and bold aesthetics at the service of exceptional mechanics.

When the first DB28 was launched in 2010, De Bethune’s idea was to present a timepiece with an identity of its own and a resolutely futuristic vision of the art of watchmaking. The design naturally follows through in the spirit of the Manufacture’s creations. The distinctive shape of the case and the crown at 12 o’clock, inspired by pocket watches, are characteristic features of the contemporary aestheticism specific to De Bethune.

It is on this timepiece that the patent for De Bethune’s unique, innovative floating lugs, designed to significantly improve comfort, acquired its full meaning. Since then, the DB28 – named Best Watch of the Year and awarded the Aiguille d’Or prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2011 – has never ceased to express past, present and future watchmaking culture through different variants.

Following through on a series of contemporary iterations, from Skybridge to the Kind-of-Blue, by way of the more recent DB28XP, DB28XP Starry Sky and DB28XP Tourbillon, De Bethune has time and again found a new way to reveal new facets of this design, already instantly recognizable by its sleek and taut lines.

The DB28 Steel Wheels was introduced in 2018, under the sign of transparency and light, with the idea of opening the dial to reveal the contemporary architecture of its movement.

Recognizable by its delta shaped bridge – a De Bethune hallmark – and its moon at 6 o’clock, the DB28 Steel Wheels fascinates with a multitude of different forms – hemispherical, concave, and spherical – for an architecturally dynamic result. It is all about levels of perception, layers and reliefs, light playing with shadows and reflections. Cut from titanium, light on the wrist, this watch reveals a contemporary, architectural fusion of space, time and light.

The DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon

Most often used in the production of watch cases, sapphire crystal takes on a new role for De Bethune. Here, it finds a new vocation in the form of the signature delta-shaped bridge and the cover for each of the two barrels. Blue for the bridge, clear for the barrel covers, these elements are integrated into the movement, letting light in to play and offer new reflections – and allow the eyes to literally plunge into the mechanism.

De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon

The transparency of these sapphire crystal components not only magnifies the movement, but also offers a different kind of lighting, new brilliance and shimmering, that highlights the taut lines, the architecture and the different levels of the caliber for an intriguing sense of depth.

Each sapphire crystal component is encircled in polished titanium. Always in the spirit of taking things further, as far as possible, Denis Flageollet designed the sapphire glass components, cutting them by laser with utmost precision so they fit in perfectly with the forms, rises, angles, the teeth – the bridge as well as the barrel covers – all perfectly adjusted like lace of sapphire crystal.

To this is added a ring of polished titanium to circle each barrel cover. The sight of the delta bridge and two barrel covers in sapphire crystal is something never seen before, along with the cut of the glass, underscored on its periphery by the polished metallic grey line, accentuating a resolutely contemporary aesthetic.

De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon

The thicknesses of the sapphire crystal vary according to the components. The sapphire of the bridge is 1 mm thick to ensure functional rigidity, whilst the sapphire of the barrel covers is 0.3 mm thick. These glass components in no way compromise robustness or, of course, reliability when worn – solid, perfect resistant to small everyday shocks is assured.

De Bethune has always crafted its watch hands in-house, by hand, in the workshop in l’Auberson. The DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon thus comes with a particularly finely worked hour hand. It consists of 4 distinct elements: the barrel made of steel for technical reasons, a titanium insert, an inner component of matt titanium, and a polished titanium outer component. Each component is worked differently. The result is unique. At the back, the power reserve indication can be read with a hand-blued steel hand, also made, as is the custom, by hand in De Bethune’s workshop.

In the vast array of complications and functions, of horological disciplines in which De Bethune has become a virtuoso, the tourbillon often played a leading role. The DB28 Steel Wheels boasts a tourbillon featuring an extraordinarily lightweight cage (0.18 grams, the lightest ever created). Rotating on itself every thirty seconds, it comprises a total of 63 components (the lightest of which weighs less than 0.0001 grams!).

Nowadays, a wristwatch is subjected to more action than may be safely and sufficiently compensated for. Changes in position are often abrupt and sometimes chaotic. Indeed, the kinetic forces inflicted on a mechanical watchmaking movement under normal wear conditions might seem quite staggering. Just as Breguet had invented the tourbillon to meet the constraints of marine watches, De Bethune designed a tourbillon for the new dynamics of wristwatches.

To compensate for the sheer force of wrist movements, the tourbillon cage must be as light as possible and operate at maximum frequency and speed of rotation, all with weight and inertia at absolute minimums.

The tourbillon is a titanium and silicon creation that beats at a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour. It features an extraordinarily lightweight cage (0.18 g, the lightest ever) that rotates on itself every thirty seconds and comprises 63 components (the lightest of which weighs less than 0.0001 g). These special qualities let the De Bethune’s tourbillon to simply fulfill its function more ably for today’s watches. The futuristic shape of the Tourbillon Bridge holds the tourbillon perfectly in position, symmetrically, from both sides.

Among the various hand-made decorations specific to De Bethune’s movements, the mirror-polishing of the titanium pieces offers an astonishing play with light. The surfaces of the components are finished to perfectly reflect ambient light. The metal surface is patiently polished until it becomes a true mirror.

And unparalleled comfort thanks to its floating lugs, kept to an intermediate size on this watch.

De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon

The DB28 Steel Wheelss Sapphire Tourbillon features a polished grade 5 titanium case, mounted on the new floating lugs unveiled this year. Entirely redesigned, harmonized and adapted to the spirit of the watch, they are tipped by the famous ‘bullets,’ more prominent here, reminiscent of the spirit of the first De Bethune collections.

The alligator strap with a titanium buckle contributes to the practicality and everyday wearability of this very special timepiece.

Technical details

Model: DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon
Reference: DB28SWTTIS1

Functions
Hours, Minutes, 30’’ indicator via the ultra-light De Bethune tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock, Power reserve situated on the back

Movement
DB2019V5
Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Number of parts: 272
Jewelling: 39 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)

Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’ tourbillon in titanium – De Bethune Innovation (2008)
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Motion works bridge and concave cover plate in grade 5 titanium, mirror-polished
Curved, open worked and beveled barrel bridge with glass blued sapphire
Open worked and hand sailed barrels with glass blued sapphire and blued titanium beveled rings
Rhodium power reserve indicator background decorated with “De
Bethune” circular graining
Blued and engraved ring
Steel parts beveled and polished by hand

Display
Display: Minutes and hours hand in hand-polished sand-blasted blued titanium
Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’ tourbillon in titanium – De Bethune Innovation (2008)

Dial
Circular-grained titanium hours ring
Spherical polished titanium hour-markers set and 30” dial on a blued polished titanium circle

Case
Material: Polished grade 5 titanium
Diameter: 43 mm
Thickness: 9.80 mm
Lugs: Polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Screwed case back in grade 5 polished titanium that opens on a linear power reserve indicator in blued steel Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in polished grade 5 titanium

De Bethune: DB28XP, DB28XP Starry Sky and DB28XP Tourbillon

De Bethune celebrates the 10th Anniversary of the brand’s iconic DB28 watch by unveiling a set of three watches in 2020. All three timepieces, all true to the DNA of the DB28, are interpretations of the same theme, independent of each other yet linked by their history, the work that went into them, the brand cues they reflect.

When the first DB28 was launched in 2010, De Bethune’s idea was to present a timepiece with an identity all its own and a resolutely futuristic vision of the art of watchmaking. The design of the timepiece embodies the code of the Maison. The distinctive case shape, the crown at 12 o’clock inspired by pocket watches. It is on this timepiece that De Bethune’s unique and innovative – and patented – floating lugs, designed also to significantly improve comfort, demonstrated their self-evident purpose. Since then, the DB28 has continued to express the past, present and future of watchmaking culture through its various iterations.

De Bethune DB28XP

With this most absolute version, De Bethune explores the universe of ultra-thin watches. Throughout the quest of designing an ultra-thin watch, De Bethune was driven as much by the technical challenge as the aesthetic challenge, by the complexity of ‘finesse’.

Monochromatic by design, the DB28XP is first and foremost a reference to the very first
DB28. It’s about all the levels at which one experiences a timepiece, its layers, reliefs, the light playing with shadows and reflections. This titanium watch reveals an architectural fusion of space, time and light that lingers long after the first glance.

De Bethune DB28XP

The dial is entirely made of Microlight, which offers a modern take on traditional guilloche technique. On this generous flat surface, the new technique takes on its full meaning and reinforces the structure. By playing with light and shadow, it adds depth and offers a more architectural and dynamic result. The watch as whole becomes more contemporary.

The delta-shaped main plate – a De Bethune hallmark – is finished to perfectly reflect ambient light. A tone-on-tone pattern surrounds the central part of the elliptical dial, subtly revealing the movement’s wheels. Finally, as a discreet De Bethune signature, the blued titanium inserts in the hands at the centre.

De Bethune DB28XP

The hand-wound movement features De Bethune’s balance wheel, visible through the dial thanks to an opening at 6 o’clock. Its diameter is not too large, either. Made of titanium, it is equipped with small white gold weights placed on the outside to give remarkable qualities of inertia, reliability and regulating ability.

The extremely fine balance spring maintains its true centre of gravity with a flat terminal curve affixed to the outside of the balance-spring. Differences in the thickness of the blade add to the almost perfect precision of its concentric development. Among the many advantages: lower height, better adjustment of concentricity, finer adjustment of the racquet, no need for pins. The curve’s shape even acts as a shock absorber in case of impact. Finally, the material’s internal structure remains intact since it has been neither stressed nor bent. It is through these numerous tried and tested developments, which are constantly revisited and further improved, that De Bethune has succeeded in increasing the power reserve by 20 percent, bringing it to a total of 6 days.

Equally visible – and geometrically positioned in relation to the calibre’s plate – is the exclusive triple shock absorption system designed to protect the whole assembly. Not only was De Bethune the first to design a bridge held on both sides, symmetrically, to ensure the balance is kept perfectly in position. The Maison also added two shock absorbers at each end to supplement the shock absorber of the pendulum itself. Hence the name “triple pare-chute” or triple shock absorber, which effectively absorbs and dampens violent shocks with springs instead of screws mounted on perfectly polished axes.

De Bethune DB28XP

Another challenge was to preserve the functionality and wear comfort of De Bethune’s famous floating lugs. The case band has been completely redesigned, with a more pronounced curvature, flowing with the lines of the wrist and lugs – whose bullets incidentally have also entirely redesigned. The plate’s Microlight finish is echoed along the sides of the case band, rendered all the more meticulously in the absence of simple geometric forms.

Technical details

Model: DB28XP
Reference: DB28XPTIS1

Function
Hours, Minutes

Movement
DB2115v6
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Number of parts: 194
Jewelling: 29 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Titanium balance with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour
Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration

Dial
Polished titanium hours ring with polished titanium spherical hour-markers
Circular satin-brushed titanium minutes ring
Polished titanium barrel bridge and triangular central bridge guards with straight-grained chamfered contours
Titanium dial base with “microlight” decoration centred on the balance – De Bethune Innovation (2007)
Polished titanium hands with polished blued titanium inserts

Case
Case material: Polished grade 5 titanium with “microlight” case middle
Case diameter: 43 mm
Case thickness: 7.2 mm
Lugs: Polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: Sapphire (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double antireflective coating
Caseback: Solid, in polished grade 5 titanium
Engraved ring in blued circular satin-finish titanium
Titanium plate with “microlight” decoration and De Bethune logo
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining
Buckle: Grade 5 titanium buckle and pin

De Bethune DB28XP Starry Sky

Classic by inspiration with its round, ultra-thin shape, its crown at 12 o’clock and a hunter case back borrowed from pocket watches, the DB28 Starry Sky comes in an ultra-lightweight, mirror-polished titanium case fitted with redesigned floating lugs.

Inspired by DB28 Skybridge, which featured a curved sky, De Bethune raises the stakes of complexity even further by creating a blue Microlight firmament. The dial’s surface of peaks and valleys refracts light in yet more dimensions, offering a unique spectacle. Free and unconstrained, the mastery of blued titanium translates into a multitude of microgrooves that create a mesmerising optical effect.

De Bethune DB28XP Starry Sky

Into the deep blue expanse a multitude of small white gold pins driven through one by one with great care and accuracy recreating the actual magic of the stars on an actual night. Glittering sparkles give the night-time heavens an endless depth. A magical experience, made all the more special by the fact that the firmament depicted is not random. The customer selects the date and hour and location, and De Bethune draws the sky map of on the dial.

The DB28XP Starry Sky features the hour circle in silver, the minutes in Arabic numerals, the discreet De Bethune signature at 12 o’clock, and rose gold hands designed especially for this edition.

Technical details

Model: DB28XP Starry Sky
Reference: DB28XPTIS3V2

Function
Hours, Minutes

Movement
DB2115v7
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Number of parts: 165
Jewelling: 27 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel, De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Titanium balance with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour
Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration

Dial
Silver-toned hours ring with transferred Arabic numerals
Transferred circular satin-brushed titanium minutes ring
Titanium dial with “microlight” decoration – De Bethune Innovation (2007)
Starry sky with white gold stars
Dial featuring an opening revealing the balance, surrounded by a chamfered polished steel rim
Polished pink gold hands

Case
Case material: Polished grade 5 titanium with “microlight” case middle
Case diameter: 43 mm
Case thickness: 7.2 mm
Lugs: Polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: Sapphire (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double antireflective coating
Caseback: Solid, in polished grade 5 titanium
Engraved ring in blued circular satin-finish titanium
Titanium plate with “microlight” decoration and De Bethune logo
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining
Buckle: Grade 5 titanium buckle and pin

De Bethune DB28XP Tourbillon

With this third interpretation of the DB28 theme, De Bethune rethinks the watchmaking architecture at its core and explores new codes. DB28XP Tourbillon is directly inspired by the famous dial of the DB28 Digitale.

De Bethune DB28XP Tourbillon

Offering hour, minute and seconds indications in 30”, DB28XP Tourbillon features an elegant and minimalist white dial with silver reflections rendered in a hand-engraved “barley grain” guilloche pattern, highlighted by a blued hour circle.

De Bethune DB28XP Tourbillon

The tourbillon positioned at 6 o’clock is a titanium creation that beats at a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour. It features an extraordinarily lightweight cage (0.18 gr., the lightest ever) that rotates on itself every thirty seconds and comprises 63 components (the lightest of which weighs less than 0.0001 g).

On the case back, as a nod to the Aiguille d’Or – the highest distinction of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève – awarded to the first DB28: The position of the planets is that in the evening sky over Geneva when the prestigious prize was presented on November 19th, 2011.

Technical details

Model: DB28XP Tourbillon
Reference: DB28XPTTIS1

Functions
Hours, Minutes, 30’’ indicator via the ultra-light De Bethune tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock

Movement
DB2009v4
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Number of parts: 216
Jewelling: 33 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel, De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Titanium balance with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’ tourbillon in titanium – De Bethune Innovation (2008)
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration

Dial
Blued-polished titanium hours ring with polished hour markers. Circular satin-brushed titanium minutes ring
Silver-toned hand-guilloché barley-corn motif
Dial featuring an opening revealing the tourbillon, surrounded by a chamfered blued-polished titanium rim and a titanium seconds dial
Blued polished titanium hands with polished inserts

Case
Case material: Polished grade 5 titanium with “microlight” case middle
Case diameter: 43 mm
Case thickness: 8.1 mm
Lugs: Polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: Sapphire (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double antireflective coating
Caseback: Solid, in polished grade 5 titanium with the position of the planets on November 19th 2011(Aiguille d’Or – GPHG)
Engraved ring in blued circular satin-finish titanium
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining
Buckle: Grade 5 titanium buckle and pin

De Bethune DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon Milky Way Limited Edition

De Bethune presents the limited edition DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon Milky Way, the first timepiece from the brand to render the magnificent Milky Way on the emblematic central delta-shaped bridge on the dial side. The colour blue of the watch evokes water, sky and space at the same time.

The DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon Milky Way features a polished grade 5 titanium case. Measuring 43 mm diameter, it is mounted on two revisited medium-sized floating lugs, complemented by redesigned, prominent and more contemporary bullets for superior user comfort.

De Bethune DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon Milky Way Limited Edition

Fully visible on the dial side, the mechanical hand-wound calibre features the signature domed “De Bethune Delta” minute bridge in mirror-polished titanium. This is the first piece to depict the Milky Way, rendered here using delicate laser surface texturing enhanced by 24-carat gold micro inlays across the minute bridge.

The DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon Milky Way houses a high-frequency, ultra-fast tourbillon developed by De Bethune. The lightest in the world with its tiny 0.20 grams for 63 components, it beats to a tenth of a second and completes a full rotation in 30 seconds.

The mechanical hand-wound calibre DB2019 incorporates latest-generation titanium/white gold balance wheel, the spiral with the exclusive De Bethune flat terminal curve and a silicon escapement wheel vibrating at 28,800 vibrations per hour. The two self-regulating barrels, also developed in-house, ensure constant torque. This system increases the power reserve by more than 20%.

A torque indicator is located between 2 and 3 o’clock. The power reserve can be read on the back of the specially beaded plate. The hours are indicated by skeletonized hands on polished steel arrowhead hour markers.

De Bethune DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon Milky Way Limited Edition

All finishes are by hand. The hand-decorated components feature several types of fine watchmaking finishes, with spiral barrel ratchets and, on the back, a plate with “De Bethune” type beading. The hours are marked by pink gold arrow indices and, “luxeoblige,” indicated by skeleton hands fashioned from the same precious metal.

The DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon Milky Way is limited to 5 pieces.

Technical details

Model: De Bethune DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon Milky Way
Reference: DB28TBMW

Functions
Hours, minutes, 30″ indicator through the ultra-light silicon and titanium De Bethune tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock, Power reserve on case back

Movement
De Bethune Calibre DB2019
Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Using the crown (2 positions) for winding, and setting the time
Number of parts: 298
Jewelling: 39 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Silicon balance wheel encircled with a white gold ring – De Bethune Patent (2010)
De Bethune balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Ultra-light 30 second De Bethune Tourbillon in silicon and titanium – De Bethune Innovation (2008)
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Motion works bridge and cover-plate in grade 5 titanium, mirror-polished and blued by hand
Bridge cover on the barrel decorated in grade 5 mirror-polished and blued titanium, encrusted by hand with stars in white gold
Rose-work grinding by hand on the barrels
Decoration on power reserve indicator in grade 5 titanium “De Bethune” concentric graining and blued by hand
Steel parts bevelled and flame-blued by hand

Display
Hand-polished rose gold hands
De Bethune 30″ ultra-light tourbillon in silicone and titanium at 6 o’clock –De Bethune Innovation (2008)

Dial
Blued grade 5 polished titanium hours ring with rose gold hour-markers
Blued grade 5 satin-polished titanium minutes ring
Milky Way patterns produced by laser beam micro milling, gilded with 24-carat gold leaf

Case
Material: Blued grade 5 mirror-polished titanium
Diameter: 42.60mm
Thickness: 9.20mm
Lugs: Short or long floating lugs in grade 5 polished and blued titanium –De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: Sapphire (1800 Vickers hardness), with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Screwed case back in polished pink 5N gold and open on a linear power reserve indicator in pink 5N gold; Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness), with double anti-reflective coating
Water resistance:3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Folding clasp in blued titanium and rose gold

Edition
Limited edition of 5 pieces

De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius 5N Rose Gold

De Bethune presents a new 5N Rose Gold version of its DB25 Starry Varius watch. With its personalized constellation at the centre of its dial, its revisited lugs and an original 42mm case, this watchmaking icon is a contemporary classic.

With its DB25 Starry Varius watch, De Bethune offers a whole new take on the sky, framed by a slender case in polished rose gold 5N case measuring 8.8mm thick. Personalised according to a specific geographical location and a given date, the gold pins are fitted one by one on this star-studded sky, thus making each model truly unique. The Milky Way pattern is then gilded using the traditional gold leaf technique and enhanced by laser beam micro milling.

De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius 5N Rose Gold

With a refined case featuring perfectly integrated and open worked lugs, the DB25 Starry Varius in rose gold is not only pleasant to wear; it also reflects the brand’s characteristic elegance and refinement.

The display features patiently hand-polished rose gold hands reflecting the light and sweeping over exactly matching hour-markers set on a silver-toned ring.

The sapphire crystal case-back with its double anti-reflective coating reveals the impeccable craftsmanship of the movement incorporating the latest De Bethune technologies.

Powered by the in-house mechanical manual winding DB2105 calibre oscillating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, entirely designed, developed and produced in De Bethune’s workshops, the DB25 Starry Varius in rose gold is equipped with the latest titanium balance wheel as well as the triple pare-chute shock absorbing system.

Technical details

Model: De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Rose Gold 5N
Reference: DB25VRS3

Movement
Calibre DB2005
Mechanical manual-winding calibre
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Number of parts: 160
Jewelling: 27 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Silver plate and barrel bridge cover adorned with “Côtes De Bethune”
Hand-snailed barrels
Hand-polished, chamfered steel parts

Functions
Hours, Minutes

Dial
De Bethune star-studded sky in blued and polished titanium with hand-fitted white gold pins depicting the stars
Milky Way patterns produced by laser beam micro milling, gilded with 24-carat gold leaf
Silver-toned hours and minutes ring with polished rose gold hour-markers
Hands in hand-polished rose gold

Case
Case material: Rose Gold 5N
Case diameter: 42 mm
Case thickness: 8.8 mm
Lugs: Integrated, hollowed lugs
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Open case back in rose gold 5N; Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double antireflective coating
Water-resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in rose gold 5N

De Bethune x @by Jorg Hysek Dream Watch 6 Table Clock

De Bethune presents the Dream Watch 6, a clock designed in close collaboration with the Swiss artist Jörg Hysek.

Denis Flageollet, who has a passion for timekeeping objects and has worked on many of them, conceives of and creates De Bethune clocks that combine the traditions established by of 18th century Master Watchmakers with contemporary art mechanics.

De Bethune x @byJorgHysek Dream Watch 6 Table Clock

Faithful to the spirit that drives De Bethune, each clock project originates in the juxtaposition of watchmaking history during the Enlightenment, of various techniques both for the movement and for the finishing, alongside the spirit of modernity that characterizes De Bethune’s identity.

De Bethune presented his first clock movement in 2003. It was inspired by the marine chronometers so dear to Denis Flageollet, a great sailing enthusiast, then came the mysterious Stellar Clock with its two sphynxes, and finally the famous Helicopter Clock created in 2015.

De Bethune x @by Jorg Hysek Dream Watch 6 Table Clock

De Bethune is one of the very few manufacturers to master the know-how of clock making. Thanks to the skill of some of its watchmakers, the 180-component hand-wound mechanical movement 1318-010, adapted to the design and equipped with a constant force escapement, displays the hour, minute and moon phase functions with an accuracy of 5.7 seconds in a lunar month, or 1 day every 1225 years, which corresponds to an accuracy 457 times higher than conventional moon phases – an improvement by a factor of ten compared to the De Bethune standard.

The body of the Dream Watch 6 was created by Swiss artist Jörg Hysek while dial design and movement conception was the responsibility of De Bethune.

De Bethune x @by Jorg Hysek Dream Watch 6 Table Clock

What Jörg Hysek conceived of and designed is a mechanical sculpture, with a creative aesthetic that gives off a force that speaks to lovers of the truly exclusive. Challenging the known and assumed, he expresses his sensibility to the mechanics of time.

This clock is new, unique. The feet, for example: In addition to their almost sensual refinement and the role they play in design, the three legs have the double function of keeping it upright on a table, or to laying it down, as in a cradle so it can easily be rewound. Arming the clock and setting the time – it’s done discreetly from below, sparing the eye a glance at perhaps unwelcome “interruptions” in the clock’s lines.

The entire clock was fabricated in L’Auberson, in the Swiss Jura, in the workshops of the De Bethune Manufacture.

Technical specifications

Model: De Bethune x @by Jorg Hysek Dream Watch 6 Table Clock

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Moon phase with a precision with an accuracy of one lunar month: 5.7 seconds, or 1 day / 1225 years – an accuracy 457 times higher than the classical moon phases and ten times higher than the De Bethune standard

Movement
Mechanical movement, manual winding with freewheel without ratchet, caliber 1318-010
180 components
Constant force escapement
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour
Jewelling: 29 rubies
21 micro ball bearings
Power reserve: 8 days

Display
Spherical hands: mysterious, in mirror-polished titanium
Spherical moon phase indicator in sandblasted steel and mirror-polished flame-blued steel
De Bethune signature concave starry sky in blued mirror-polished titanium inlaid with white gold stars
Yellow gold rings and hour indicators on a blued titanium background

De Bethune Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia

De Bethune presents the DW5 Armilia, a unique piece from its Maestri’art collection.

To create this extraordinary timepiece, De Bethune has drawn inspiration from the graphic novel series The Obscure Cities by the Belgian designer and scenographer François Schuiten and his friend, writer Benoît Peeters.

Background of this novel series is a parallel universe in which humans are often left to their own devices – even though reality is never very far away – this imaginary world is composed of enigmas and mysteries. Through shadows and unusual reflections of our world subject to the principle of worrying strangeness, the authors of The Obscure Cities usher their readers into spectacularly extravagant settings while maintaining a distinctly human approach.

De Bethune Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia - Watch Inspired by the graphic novel series The Obscure Cities by the Belgian designer and scenographer François Schuiten and his friend, writer Benoît Peeters

Within this retro-futuristic aesthetic free of any nostalgia, the stunning architecture, imaginary cartography, and oft heavy and imposing machines together constitute the driving elements of plots where science and engineering mingle with fantasy.

It is precisely in the context of this rich and extraordinary universe that De Bethune has taken an interest in Armilia: a submerged, almost entirely underground city. It is in this remote place in the far North of the imaginary Continent that the control of Time is handled, a concept oddly mingling chronology and climate disruptions.

De Bethune observes the exchanges permitted between the real world and the world of The Obscure Cities, recognizing that time does not have the same value in this parallel world. Raising the question of perfect and imperfect time, exploring this “white zone” of the work’s nonetheless incredibly rich universe, De Bethune has imagined a time measurement object, a watch directly inspired by the depiction of Armilia and its universe.

Breaking free of scales and proportions, Denis Flageollet, De Bethune co-founder and Master Watchmaker, and passionate about The Obscure Cities, has imagined a wrist-sized sculpture, engraved as a direct reference to a drawing of the City of Armilia.

De Bethune Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia - Watch Inspired by the graphic novel series The Obscure Cities by the Belgian designer and scenographer François Schuiten and his friend, writer Benoît Peeters

Reflecting similar gestures, a dialogue was established between Schuiten’s pen & ink drawings and renowned Swiss engraver Michelle Roten, whose talents were enlisted for this particular project. The structure of the watch thus comes to life or rather creates a reflection of Armilia’s imaginary world, as if the watch were a ship setting out to explore this world. Bearing in mind the idea of achieving a depiction similar to the original drawings, it is no coincidence that De Bethune chose 18K pink gold. The warm colour of the precious metal recalls the equally warm colours characterising the drawings of the city at sunset.

With Armilia, De Bethune has created a fascinating work that it is placing like a landmark on the frontier between art and watchmaking. The watch testifies to a vision of unbridled creativity while remaining based on profound understanding and respect for the great master watchmakers of the past, whose work it transcends and magnifies.

Armilia is the result of extreme miniaturisation of its mechanism, entirely dedicated to design, of which time is only one element. A De Bethune interpretation appearing as a nod or a signature, a small two-coloured sphere indicates the moon phases. Composed of two assembled and polished blued steel and palladium half-spheres, it guides the eye towards the digital and minimalist display of the hours and minutes. All this is visible through a hand-cut cabochon-shaped tempered glass providing a chance to get a better view of this mechanism that counts off time.

Technical specifications

Model: Maestri’Art DW5 Armilia
Reference: DW5RMA

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Spherical moon-phase indication

Movement
DB2144V2
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Spherical moon-phase adjustment and setting the time by means of the crown, adorned by 1 carat sapphire (3 positions)
Number of parts: 320
Jewelling: 32 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Silicon annular balance encircled by a white gold ring – De Bethune Patent (2010)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Spherical moon-phase indication with accuracy of one lunar day every 1112 years – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Frequency: 28’800 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration

Display
Display: Jumping-hour aperture at 3 o’clock
Analogue minutes indicator on a dragging rotating disc
Spherical moon-phase indication in palladium and flamed blued steel with an accuracy of one lunar day every 1112 years at 6 o’clock – De Bethune Patent (2004)

Dial
Frame of the jumping-hour aperture in blued grade 5 titanium

Case
Case material: Delta shaped in polished rose gold 18K
Case diameter: length 58 mm – width 47 mm
Case thickness: 16 mm
Crystal: curved Hard-mineral crystal cut by hand
Case back: Closed and screwed down case back in black titanium with aperture on balance wheel; Hard-mineral crystal (1800 Vickers hardness)with double anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin in rose gold and buckle in black titanium

DE BETHUNE x URWERK for Only Watch 2019

In support of the Only Watch biennial charity auction of unique timekeepers, two great independent watchmaking “Maisons” – De Bethune and Urwerk – joined their creative energies in bringing forth a timepiece that arouses curiosity, focuses attention and touches the senses.

DE BETHUNE x URWERK Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019

From the outside, a case that challenges established norms, fusing the design and function genetics of De Bethune and Urwerk with its floating lugs and the singular vibrancy of mirror polished titanium.

DE BETHUNE x URWERK Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019

Under the hood and curved sapphire crystal, a mechanical universe which amazes us with the one-off URDB01 caliber jointly developed for this very special auction – the crown at 12 o’clock, spherical moon phase, and Urwerk’s signature time indication with the now-famous satellite window in an arc that evokes the sun’s curvature.

DE BETHUNE x URWERK Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019

This DE BETHUNE x URWERK collaboration is the story of four personalities, Denis Flageollet and Pierre Jacques at De Bethune, and Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei at Urwerk.

Technical details

Model: DE BETHUNE x URWERK Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019
Reference OW19

Functions
Wandering hour satellite, Minutes, Spherical moon phase indication at 6 o’clock, Power reserve situated on the back

Movement
Calibre DB2105
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding, setting the time and spherical moon phase adjustment by means of the crown (3 positions)
Number of parts: 336
Jewelling: 37 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 4 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Concave plate covers and mirror-polished barrels bridge
Open worked and hand sailed barrels
Steel parts beveled and polished by hand

Specificities
Hour satellite indication designed by URWERK with triple base plate in ARCAAP; satellite in aluminum mounted on Geneva crosses in beryllium bronze. Hand painted SuperLuminova index.
Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Spherical moon phase indication accurate to a degree of one lunar day every 122 years –De Bethune Patent (2004)
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2005)

Case
Material: Polished grade 5 titanium
Case width: 43 mm
Case thickness: 13.3 mm
Lugs: Short or long floating lugs in polished grade 5 titanium – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Screwed case back in grade 5 polished titanium; Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in polished grade 5 titanium

De Bethune DB21 Maxichrono Réédition

Swiss luxury watch brand De Bethune has created a re-edition of its iconic DB21 Maxichrono collection. The new model is limited to 10 pieces annual production.

De Bethune DB21 Maxichrono Réédition

The watch features a Grade 5 titanium case and houses a hand-wound mechanical movement. The watch boasts a Three-dimensional dial featuring 5 central hands layout.

De Bethune DB21 Maxichrono Réédition

Technical specifications

Name: De Bethune DB21 Maxichrono Réédition
Reference: DB21RE
Limitation: Limited annual production of 10 pieces

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Mono-pusher chronograph with 24-hour, 60- minute and 60-second counters

Movement
Calibre DB2030
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: By the crown at 6 o’clock (2 positions) for winding and setting the time
Via a push-piece integrated in the crown for the chronograph function
Number of parts: 426
Jewelling: 51 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimized for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
“De Bethune Absolute Clutch” – De Bethune Patent (2014)
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Bridges mirror-polished, sandblasted and snailed by hand; Steel parts polished and chamfered by hand

Display
5 curved central hands – hand-polished steel for hours and minutes hands and flame-blued steel chronograph hours and seconds indicators
Chronograph minutes indicator in red

Dial
Three-dimensional dial constructed on different levels to maximise readability. From the centre to the periphery: silver-toned central hours counter – hours ring in titanium with blued markers – silver-toned minutes ring and minutes counter transfer-printed red numerals – silver-toned 1/10th of second graduated outer ring for seconds counter

Case
Case material: Grade 5 titanium
Case diameter: 44.4 mm
Case thickness: 12 mm
Lugs: Short or long floating lugs in blued grade 5 titanium – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Revealing the mechanism with hand-polished steel bridges
Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double antireflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Buckle in blued grade 5 titanium and pin in grade 5 titanium

De Bethune DB28GS Grand Bleu

The DB28GS Grand Bleu is De Bethune’’s first 100% sports watch. Equipped with a new caliber, this technical and elegant diver’s model boasts a water resistance to more than 100 metres; and offers excellent readability including in the darkest depths thanks to ingenious lighting inside the movement and a new photo luminescent blue, a different bezel that rotates this time with the crystal to indicate dive times; a titanium case for a light feel and a rubber strap for convenience; along with a five-day power reserve.

Just 10 years ago, De Bethune began developing timepieces with a more contemporary spirit with the first DB28. Already at that time, De Bethune’s founder and Master Watchmaker, Denis Flageollet, an outdoor sports enthusiast, felt the need to create watches adapted to an active lifestyle. In 2015, the first DB28GS was launched.

Based on the observation that a sports watch must be perfectly readable in any kind of weather and every possible situation, a special lighting system has been developed. To illuminate the watch and the movement from the inside, the slightly bluish white light source is produced by a fully mechanical means that works on the dynamo principle.

The result is as simple as the lighting of a bicycle, fully mechanical with no electronics and no battery. A pusher at 6 o’clock activates a small gear train driven by the twin barrel. This gear train, by means of a miniature dynamo, provides the necessary energy for lighting the watch. A few seconds of light is more than enough to read the time, even in the middle of the night.

To complete this ingenious system, Denis Flageollet, in close concert with James Thompson, researched a new blue photo luminescent material to improve the readability of the hands, indices and timer whilst remaining true to De Bethune’s hallmark colour spectrum.

The main research focus was on developing a material containing crystals capable of two different color emissions: one for daytime, allowing the De Bethune blue to come through for full effect in natural light; and one for nighttime, with the same crystals now glowing with a radiant luminescence, and always remaining faithful to the iconic blue.

The result is unprecedented, and truly unique: A new blue, bright, deep, luminous, of an ardent and elegant tonality that casts the perfect De Bethune blue during the day, and yet radiates the same tone in the dark. This exclusive luminescent material, named Blue Moon, was developed in partnership with the Swedish company Black Badger Advanced Composites (James Thompson) in collaboration with Swiss SuperLuminova™ and is now proprietary to De Bethune.

De Bethune DB28GS Grand Bleu

The rotating bezel made its first appearance in watchmaking in 1952. It serves to enable accurate calculation of immersion time, as well as the transition through various decompression stops. of the different levels. Generally, all the numerals relating to the minutes counter are indicated on the bezel, which tends to create a more crowded visual effect.

For the DB28GS Grand Bleu, these indications appear on the sapphire crystal driven by the bezel. This developed in the workshops of the Manufacture in L’Auberson enables the model to remain elegantly slender and instils a pleasing casual chic aesthetic.

Hand-wound, with central seconds and a five-day power reserve indicated on the dial, this is the 27th calibre entirely developed and manufactured by the Manufacture De Bethune, equipped with a state-of-the-art in-house-made balance wheel.

The presence of the titanium / white gold balance wheel and balance-spring with flat terminal curve ensures an ideal mass / inertia ratio for an optimal frequency of 28,800 vph suitable for wristwatches.

It is endowed with numerous properties – such as optimised efficiency, reliability, regulating quality, thermo-compensation, anti-magnetism – leading to concrete results, since De Bethune has already improved the efficiency of its sprung-balance-escapement ensemble by achieving a 20% increase in power reserve.

The calibre is also equipped with the triple pare chute system. De Bethune was not only the first to design a bridge symmetrical held on both sides and thus serving to maintain the balance wheel perfectly in position, but also added two shock absorbers on either end as well as that of the balance wheel itself.

Finally, the DB28GS Grand Bleu does not escape the special attention devoted to the refined work of hand-crafted finishing performed within the company workshops in L’Auberson, such as blued titanium components, zirconium case middle and Microlight decoration.

De Bethune DB28GS Grand Bleu

Water-resistant to 105 metres (10 ATM), the DB28GS Grand Bleu is no exception to the strict rule of wearer comfort that De Bethune applies to its models in general and particularly to the DB28 collection. This exceptional comfort stems from a combination of the light feel of the titanium case, the softness of its hand-polished finish, the 12 o’clock crown position and above all the presence of the patented system of floating lugs that adapt to wrist size and movements.

For the DB28GS Grand Bleu, the lugs have been completely redesigned in a medium size tailored to the sporting spirit of the watch, featuring the famous cones that are especially prominent in this model and adorned with black zirconium inserts recalling the sides of the case middle.

The model is delivered with two straps: a canvas version and a striated natural rubber iteration with titanium folding clasp, which also contributes to the practical and pleasant wearer comfort of this timepiece.

Technical details

Name: DB28GS Grand Bleu
Reference: DB28GSV2AN

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Power reserve indication between 9 and 10 o’clock, unidirectional rotating bezel, manual dial lighting

Movement
DB2080
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions), push button at 6 o’clock to activate the lightening
Number of parts: 400
Jewelling: 51 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Specificities: Titanium/white gold balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Dial lighting produced by an entirely mechanical means working on the dynamo principle powered by a twin barrel and manually controlled via a pusher – De Bethune Innovation (2019)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Mirror- polished grade 5 titanium motion-work bridge
Plate and barrel bridge covers in hand-smoothed grade 5 titanium and adorned with “Microlight engraving” – De Bethune Innovation (2007)
Hand-snailed barrels
Hand-polished and chamfered steel parts

Display
Blued titanium hours and minutes hands with polished steel insert and second blued steel insert, luminescent tip
Polished steel seconds hand with luminescent tip
Power-reserve indicator between 9 and 10 o’clock

Dial
Satin-brushed grade 5 titanium minutes dial with cut-out
Arabic numerals
Rotating bezel crystal with metallised minutes ring

Case
Case material: Black zirconium case middle with “Microlight” decoration, brushed and polished grade 5 titanium caseback and bezel
Case diameter: 44 mm
Case thickness: 12.8 mm
Lugs: Floating lugs in brushed grade 5 titanium – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double antireflective coating
Case back: Open in brushed grade 5 titanium
Water resistance: 10 ATM

Strap
Natural rubber strap + 1 canvas / leather strap
Buckle: Folding clasp in brushed grade 5 titanium

De Bethune DB28 Yellow Tones

With complete mastery of the art of thermal oxidation of metals, De Bethune continues to explore all the colour shades resulting from the heat released by the chemical reactions of heat-treated steel and titanium.

Denis Flageollet, Master Watchmaker and founder of De Bethune, initially started working with his team on the blue tonality. Natural blue, a colour linked to the notion of infinity and harmony, is one of De Bethune’s main fields of research. It has become the company’s distinctive signature.

As with a luminous vibration, each colour exudes a different type of energy. True as ever to the natural colours of the four elements – sky, water, earth and fire – De Bethune now explores a warm colour (as opposed to the cool colour of blue). And so it is that the Maison reveals, in a new edition, natural shades of amber and flame blonde, reflecting the colours of fire, sun, warmth and luxuriance, along with the incomparable clarity that emerges from it, synonymous with energy, joy and vigour.

De Bethune DB28 Yellow Tones

To create its own fiery, radical, magnetic yellow, De Bethune applies its famous technique of gently oxidising grade 5 titanium to tint its surface naturally. This ritual conjures an extraordinary, rare and uniform fire yellow.

This know-how is applied to the case components and to most of the movement’s components. Each element is thus individually examined to ensure the process is properly calibrated to suit shape and mass. This preliminary step is essential to obtain a range of uniform tones. However, the human touch and the typologies of the materials mean that tiny variations persist. These nuances are essential to De Bethune as they create a visual resonance that impacts the perception of the result. Indeed, the final fire yellow tone, brought about by the sum of all these variations, translates into a kind of all-encompassing vibrancy.

The iconic De Bethune DB28 features a polished grade 5 titanium case mounted on the two new floating lugs unveiled this year. Entirely redesigned, of intermediate size, harmonised and adapted to the essence of the watch, they come together in the hallmark rib, more prominent here, recalling the spirit of the first De Bethune collections.

De Bethune DB28 Yellow Tones

The hand-wound mechanical calibre is fully visible and incorporates several fundamental technical discoveries. The patented spherical moon phase is located at 6 o’clock. Made of steel and palladium, it is accurate to within one lunar day every 122 years.

At the heart of the watch, the high-performance escapement developed by De Bethune features a titanium balance wheel with white gold weights and a flat terminal curve balance spring, ensuring an ideal mass-inertia ratio for the optimal frequency of 28,800 vph suitable for wristwatches. It comes endowed with manifold properties: aerodynamics, optimised efficiency, reliability, regulating quality, thermo-compensation, anti-magnetism… which deliver concrete results as attested by the 20-percent gain in power reserve achieved by improving the efficiency of the escapement-oscillator assembly.

The calibre also comes equipped with the triple “pare-choc” shock absorption system. De Bethune was not only the first contemporary manufacturer to design a bridge held symmetrically on both sides to perfectly maintain the balance wheel in position, but also to integrate two shock absorbers at each end, in addition to the shock absorber of the balance wheel itself.

All finishes are by hand, featuring a polished titanium motion work bridge, “Côtes De Bethune”- decorated bridges and rose-work grinding on the barrel ratchets. The hours are indicated by skeleton hands on spherical polished steel indices.

The whole finds its completion with an alligator strap presenting a brown buckle with a yellow pin buckle in polished grade 5 titanium, which also contributes to the practical and pleasant wearing of this timepiece.

Technical details

Name: DB28 Yellow Tones
Reference: DB28YT

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Spherical moon phase indication at 6 o’clock,
Power reserve situated on the back

Movement
DB2115V4
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Spherical moon phase adjustment via a corrector
Technical features of calibre DB2115V4
Number of parts: 275
Jewelling: 35 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Specificities: Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimized for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Spherical moon phase indication accurate to a degree of one lunar day every 122 years – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Yellow polished grade 5 titanium plate cover
Handmade yellow grade 5 titanium motion works bridge
Barrels bridge adorned with “Côtes De Bethune” in yellow titanium
Open worked and hand sailed barrels
Rhodium power reserve indicator background decorated with “De Bethune” circular graining brown and engraved ring
Steel parts beveled and polished by hand

Display
Display: Hours and minutes hands in flame-browned steel
Spherical moon phase indication in palladium and flamebrowned steel with an accuracy of one lunar day every
122 years at 6 o’clock – De Bethune Patent (2004)

Dial
Circular-grained titanium hours ring
Moon phase bezel in polished browned titanium
Spherical polished titanium hour-markers set on a browned polished titanium circle

Case
Case material: Yellow polished grade 5 titanium
Case diameter: 42.6 mm
Case thickness: 9.30 mm
Lugs: Floating lugs in browned polished grade 5 titanium – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Screwed case back in grade 5 polished titanium that opens on a linear power reserve indicator in browned steel Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap’
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Brown with yellow pin buckle in polished grade 5 titanium

Independent Brands ANONIMO, De Bethune, H. Moser & Cie., HAUTLENCE and Vulcain to Showcase Their Creations At The Hyperion Hotel During Baselworld 2019 Exhibition

Five independent Swiss watch brands have joined forces at Baselworld to create a space dedicated to beautiful watchmaking and design. Known as the Time Lounge, it groups together ANONIMO, De Bethune, H. Moser & Cie., HAUTLENCE and Vulcain. From March 20th to 26th 2019, visitors can discover the newest models from these five independent brands on the third floor of the Hyperion Hotel, formerly the Ramada Plaza Basel Hotel.

At the heart of this redesigned area, ANONIMO, De Bethune, H. Moser & Cie., HAUTLENCE and Vulcain will meet clients, friends of the brands, journalists and enthusiasts to showcase their new models for 2019. With a focus on independent watchmaking and exceptional design, these five watchmaking houses are cleverly using the synergies between them to display their openness of spirit. The informal, relaxed atmosphere on the third floor of the Hyperion Hotel will be a must-visit location for those in the know.

Aldo Magada, Pierre Jacques, as well as Georges-Henri, Edouard and Bertrand Meylan along with their teams are looking forward to sharing this adventure and welcoming their visitors to Basel.

H. MOSER & CIE.

H. Moser & Cie. was created by Heinrich Moser in 1828. Based in Neuhausen am Rheinfall, it currently employs around 60 people, has developed 12 in-house calibres to date and produces more than 1,500 watches per annum.

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Tourbillon
H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Tourbillon

H. Moser & Cie. manufactures parts such as regulating organs and balance-springs, which are used for its own production as well as to supply its partner companies. H. Moser & Cie. is honoured to have a Moser family member with the company as Honorary Chairman and President of the Heinrich and Henri Moser Foundation.

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds in Red Gold
H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds in Red Gold

The aim of the Moser Foundation, created by one of Heinrich Moser’s descendants, is to keep the family history alive and seek out antique pieces for the Moser Museum, located in Charlottenfels Manor, Heinrich Moser’s family home. With its substantial watchmaking expertise and highly acclaimed experience in the sector, MELB Holding holds shares in H. Moser & Cie. and Hautlence. MELB Holding is an independent family group, based in the heart of the legendary Vallée de Joux.

HAUTLENCE

Founded in 2004, HAUTLENCE – whose name itself is an anagram of Neuchâtel – pays tribute to the birthplace of the watchmaking art. The brand has been praised by watch collectors and aficionados from across the world for bringing a new dynamism to the art of fine watchmaking. With annual production of around 200 pieces, HAUTLENCE has seven calibres designed and developed in-house, whilst also relying on external partners for the movements used in certain collections.

HAUTLENCE Vagabonde 03
HAUTLENCE Vagabonde 03

HAUTLENCE is pushing the boundaries of traditional watchmaking codes, uniting them with innovative mechanical solutions and an unlimited universe borrowed from the various arts, combining design, architecture, and movement.

HAUTLENCE Vagabonde Tourbillon
HAUTLENCE Vagabonde Tourbillon

The brand takes its inspiration from this to create new approaches to time display, which it uses to elevate the two key dimensions of space and time. Ever conscious of a functional relationship with beauty, HAUTLENCE invents timepieces with completely new contours and depths, respecting every stage and every person involved in their production. In strategic terms, HAUTLENCE can count on support from MELB Holding, an independent family watchmaking group which has been offering its experience and network since 2012, to foster the synergies between HAUTLENCE and the group.

DE BETHUNE

De Bethune is an independent Swiss watch manufacturer located at L’Auberson, in the Jura mountain pastures of the canton of Vaud, Switzerland. Here, some 30 employees, including watchmakers, engineers, developer-designers, micromechanical engineers, polishers and decorators focus firmly on the research and development of technical and aesthetic innovations in the spirit of the great 18th century master watchmakers.

De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Chronomètre Tourbillon
De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Chronomètre Tourbillon

The brand designs, develops and produces all its timepieces within its own Manufacture. Since its foundation, De Bethune has developed no fewer than 27 calibres, presented some 30 world premieres and registered a large number of patents as well as producing 150 one-off pieces to meet the expectations of the most discerning collectors.

De Bethune DB28GS Grand Bleu
De Bethune DB28GS Grand Bleu

De Bethune has received the highest distinctions awarded by the watch industry all over the world, including the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix for the best watch of the year. Today, Denis Flageollet, co-founder of the brand and master watchmaker, together with CEO Pierre Jacques, are spearheading the future of the company. The pure style, clean lines and delicacy of the cases represent the inimitable hallmark of De Bethune creations.

ANONIMO

Now 20 years old, the brand combines Swiss precision with a sporty-chic Italian lifestyle with a strong character. Founded in Florence by passionate watchmakers convinced that the product should be more important than the name, the brand developed timepieces for professional divers. Since 1997, ANONIMO offers watches expressing robustness and elegance.

ANONIMO NAUTILO Vintage
ANONIMO NAUTILO Vintage

A pioneer in the use of original materials, it was the first brand to offer bronze diving watches. With their cushion cases, the lines MILITARE and NAUTILO and now EPURATO are characterized by an atypical construction and dials that recall the “A” of ANONIMO with markers at 12:00, 4:00 and 8:00. Based on the other side of the Matterhorn since 2013, its production now meets all the criteria to be Swiss Made.

VULCAIN

Founded in 1858 by Maurice Ditisheim, the Vulcain watch counter developed very quickly to become famous the world over, all the while remaining a family-owned business. A talented watchmaker, Maurice Ditisheim stood out by creating and making complication watches, such as the “Vallée de l’Arve” pocket watch, first made in the 1890s for the Chinese market, and featuring the functions of minute repeater, a small alarm and a perpetual calendar, presented in a gold case, and enamelled in a large fire and then inset with pearls. The strength of the brand is the reality of its history and the truth of its products, a decisive combination that opens Vulcain up to vast horizons.

VULCAIN 50s Presidents’ Watch
VULCAIN 50s Presidents’ Watch

The uncontested specialist in mechanical alarm watches, Vulcain even today continues to write its history for the long term and with sustainability. Branded by the seal of constant innovation, the timepieces offered by Vulcain find favour with a demanding, and always better informed, clientele, a customer that adopts the brand’s motto ‘Always at the right time, always in the right place” as their own.

Exhibition details

Dates: 20th to 26th March 2019
Times: 8.30am to 6.30pm
Location: Timelounge, 3rd Floor
Hyperion Hotel (ex Ramada-Plaza)
Messeplatz 12, 4058 Basel, Switzerland

De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Chronomètre Tourbillon

Gravity is one of the greatest enemies of mechanical watches. Based on the tourbillon that AbrahamLouis Breguet invented for his 18th century pocket watches, De Bethune has sought to optimise it on today’s wristwatches.

To be more efficient on a wrist engaged in rapid and disordered movements, the tourbillon must have the highest possible frequency and fastest rotation speed.

In creating a titanium and silicon tourbillon with a frequency of 36,000 vibrations/hour, an extraordinarily light carriage (0.18 grams, the lightest ever created in the industry) spinning on its axis every 30 seconds, comprising a total of 63 components (the lightest of which weighs less than 0.0001 grams), this feat is easier to describe than to achieve.

De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Chronomètre Tourbillon

The 42mm-diameter watch is equipped with the mechanical manual-winding DB2109V4 calibre, entirely designed, developed and produced within the De Bethune workshops in L’Auberson, Switzerland. A jumping seconds display ensures precise read-off. The state-of-the-art titanium balance-wheel with white gold inserts has been optimised for temperature changes and air penetration, regulated by means of the De Bethune balance-spring with its patented flat terminal curve which maintains a perfect centre of gravity.

The test report on the watch, measured in six positions, indicates the excellent results achieved by the model, with 0.00 sec. /day in all positions. This confirms that combining the jumping seconds complication with the tourbillon has in no way been detrimental to the precision of this chronometer.

Finally, the famous De Bethune starry sky with its gold-studded blued titanium dial can be personalised in accordance with the customer’s wishes (with a date and a geographical location). The traditional gold leaf method has been complemented by laser beam micro-milling to create a Milky Way effect.

Technical details

Name: DB25 Starry Varius Chronomètre Tourbillon
Reference: DB25STTIS3

Functions
Hours, Minutes, jumping seconds, 30’’ indicator via the ultra-light De Bethune tourbillon cage on case back

Movement
DB2109V4
Type: Mechanical manual-winding calibre
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Number of parts: 260
Jewelling: 43 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 4 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Specificities:
– Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
– “De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
– Silicon escape wheel
– Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’ tourbillon in titanium – De Bethune Innovation (2008)
– De Bethune Dead Beat Second – De Bethune Innovation (2011)
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Silver plate and barrel bridge cover polished
Hand-snailed barrels
Hand-polished, chamfered steel parts

Display
Display: Hands in hand-polished steel

Dial
De Bethune star-studded sky in blued and polished titanium with hand-fitted white gold pins depicting the stars
Milky Way patterns produced by laser beam micro milling, gilded with 24-carat gold leaf
Silver-toned hours and minutes ring

Case
Case material: Polished grade 5 titanium
Case diameter: 42 mm
Case thickness: 10, 3 mm
Lugs: Integrated, hollowed lugs
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Open back, De Bethune 30 ” silicon/titanium Tourbillon, 36,000 vph – central jumping seconds
Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in grade 5 titanium

De Bethune Launches its Latest DB 25 Starry Varius Timepiece in USA in Partnership with Silicon Valley Retailer Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry

Inaugurating a new partnership with Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry, Independent Swiss watch manufacturer De Bethune has chosen the Silicon Valley retailer to debut the brand’s widely admired DB 25 Starry Varius.

The new timepiece will arrive in the US market this month at Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry’s Menlo Park boutique in the Rosewood Sand Hill Resort.

De Bethune’s superior craftsmanship, highly limited production, and distinct, modern aesthetic have made De Bethune timepieces highly sought collector’s objects the world over. As the Bay Area’s leading high horology salon specializing in small, independent watch makers, Silver Fine Jewelry was the clear choice to be De Bethune’s exclusive Bay area retailer and as the site of De Bethune’s US debut of its latest celestially inspired timepiece, the DB 25 Starry Varius.

De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius watch

Star-studded dials have become a recurrent theme for De Bethune, and the new DB Starry Varius continues the theme with a new take on the night sky for its classic DB25 model. White gold pins, representing the stars, have been hand-fitted into the blued and polished titanium dial surface, and the Milky Way pattern has been further enhanced with laser beam micro milling and gilding. Polished rose gold hour markers and hands and a silver-toned hours and minutes ring complete the composition, framed by a slender case in polished grade 5 titanium measuring 8.8mm thick and 42mm in diameter.

On the reverse side, the sapphire crystal case-back of the DB25 Starry Varius reveals the in-house mechanical manual winding DB2105 calibre. The intricate movement and its components have been hand-finished to the highest standards with rich polishes and “Cotes de Bethune” engravings. The high level of finish and ingenuity attest to De Bethune’s approach, combining art and science in a forward-thinking ethos that De Bethune projects will particularly appeal to the Silicon Valley market.

Stephen Silver is a Silicon-valley based gemologist, geologist, diamonteer, and philanthropist. As Chief Executive Officer of S. H. Silver Company, a premiere timepiece and jewelry house located in Menlo Park, California, Stephen Silver has established an international reputation amongst elite collectors for his expertise in diamond and color gemstone cutting, jewelry design, and fine timepieces, while his business acumen has earned widespread acclaim in the watch and jewelry industry. Silver founded an estate jewelry firm in Menlo Park specializing in antiques and precious stones.

Silver studied geology at the Gemological Institute of America, going on to found an estate jewelry firm in Menlo Park specializing in antiques and precious stones and gaining access to a number of history’s most important colored gems. Mr. Silver is widely recognized for his donation of the storied “Cullinan Blue Diamond Necklace” to The Smithsonian Museum of Natural History in Washington D.C. Silver has also recut and improved important color gemstones which have sold for hundreds of millions of dollars at auction or to private collectors, such as “The Pink Promise Diamond,” sold for over $32 million in 2017.

Stephen Silver has since expanded his business into a vertically integrated wholesale manufacture and retail operation of international reach, with two locations based in and around Menlo Park, California. Beyond his renown as a gemstone and jewelry expert, Stephen is also recognized in Silicon Valley for his extensive philanthropic work and community involvement, having donated millions in recent years to causes in his community and investing in emerging technologies.

De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius

With DB25 Starry Varius timepiece, which is a poetic interpretation of the traditional DB25 watch, De Bethune once again displays its technical and aesthetic mastery. A personalised constellation, revisited lugs and an original 42mm case compose with delightfully pure classic imparting fresh creative momentum while showcasing horological history.

Over the past few years, star-studded dials have become an integral part of the history of the Maison. Personalised according to a specific geographical location and a given date, the gold pins are fitted one by one on this star-studded sky, thus making each model truly unique. The Milky Way pattern is then gilded using the traditional gold leaf technique and enhanced by laser beam micro milling.

De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius

With this new creation, De Bethune offers a whole new take on the sky, framed by a slender case in polished grade 5 titanium case measuring 8.8mm thick, 42mm in diameter and featuring perfectly integrated and open-worked lugs.

De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius

Like all the most recent De Bethune creations, the DB25 Starry Varius is designed to be not only pleasant to wear, but above all to reflect the brand’s characteristic elegance and refinement. The display features discreetly hand-polished rose gold hands sweeping over exactly matching hour-markers set on a silver-toned ring.

The sapphire crystal case-back with its double anti-reflective coating reveals the impeccable craftsmanship of the movement incorporating the latest De Bethune technologies. Powered by the in-house mechanical manual winding DB2105 calibre oscillating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, the DB25 Starry Varius is equipped with the latest titanium balance wheel as well as the triple pare-chute shock absorbing system.

Technical details

Model: De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius
Reference: DB25VTIS3

Functions
Hours, Minutes

Movement
DB2005
Type: Mechanical manual-winding calibre
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Number of parts: 160
Jewelling: 27 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Specificities: Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimized for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Patent (2005)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Silver plate and barrel bridge cover adorned with “Côtes De Bethune”
Hand-snailed barrels
Hand-polished, chamfered steel parts

Dial
De Bethune star-studded sky in blued and polished titanium with hand-fitted white gold pins depicting the stars
Milky Way patterns produced by laser beam micro milling, gilded with 24-carat gold leaf
Silver-toned hours and minutes ring with polished rose gold hour-markers
Hands in hand-polished rose gold

Case
Case material: Polished grade 5 titanium
Case diameter: 42 mm
Case thickness: 8,8 mm
Lugs: Integrated, hollowed lugs
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Open case back in polished grade 5 titanium
Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double antireflective coating
Water-resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in grade 5 titanium

De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk V2

Manufacture De Bethune is adding a new movement to its repertoire by introducing the latest in-house self-winding Auto V2 calibre, beating at the heart of an extremely modern looking timepiece. Presented in two versions during Baselworld – featuring a silver-toned or blue dial – the DB27 Titan Hawk V2 is inspired by the design and technology of its predecessors, while adding a resolutely novel touch.

Aesthetic and technical considerations are by definition inseparably entwined, as vividly exemplified in the new DB27 Titan Hawk V2 which is endowed with a number of appealing assets.

De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk V2

Slender lines, a microlight dial, as well as floating lugs and a brushed caseback framing a transparent sapphire crystal pane: this is a watch that stands out not only for its pared-down design but also for its entirely in-house-made movement.

Focusing firmly on essentials, the DB27 Titan Hawk V2 model is equipped with the unprecedented AUTO V2 calibre driving hours, minutes and seconds hands, making it an attractive contemporary chronometer for daily wear. Housing a single barrel ensuring a 60-hour power reserve – as well as the latest titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts visible through the transparent caseback – this movement based on in-house technology is equipped with a titanium and tungsten alloy oscillating weight providing a reliable supply of energy.

De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk V2 watch with blue dial

While the inspiration derived from the original DB27 Titan Hawk is readily perceptible, each detail has been rethought and redesigned so as to recapture the elegance and legibility of an object that is first and foremost functional.

Juxtaposing Roman and Arabic numerals, the time read-off appears on hours and minutes rings located around the dial circumference. In one interpretation, the silver-toned dial is swept over by mat steel hands with hand-polished, flame-blued ends, while the other is graced with a blue dial swept over by blued mat steel hands with polished ends.

De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk V2 watch with silver toned dial

The case in grade 5 titanium – brushed for the silver-toned dial version and polished for the blue dial interpretation – displays all the De Bethune signature features: patented floating lugs, a 12 o’clock crown and microlight decoration of the case middle.

This distinctive and distinguished timepiece conveys in equal measure both the avant-gardist approach of the Manufacture and its hand-crafted tradition.

Technical details

Name: De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk V2
Reference: DB27TIS3V2

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds

Movement
AUTOV2
Type: Mechanical self-winding movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time (2 positions)
Number of parts: 217
Jewelling: 29 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 60 hours
Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts – De Bethune Patent (2004) improved settings qualities
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Steel escape wheel
Optimized oscillating weight in titanium and tungsten alloy
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration

Display
Hours and minutes hands in mat flamed-blued steel, with hand-polished steel ends
Seconds hand in hand-polished steel

Dial
Royal blue microlight
Silver-toned chapter ring with Roman numerals
Silver-toned minutes circle with Arabic numerals placed around the rim of the dial

Case
Case material: Polished grade 5 titanium, with middle microlight
Case diameter: 43 mm
Case thickness: 9 mm
Lugs: Short floating lugs in brushed grade 5 titanium – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (Vickers hardness of 1800) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Open in brushed grade 5 titanium
Sapphire crystal (Vickers hardness of 1800) with double anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in grade 5 titanium